Lonely Planet Argentina

Th e N at u r a l Wo rld W il d lif e599

Above Sea lion andESTIVILLML / GETTY IMAGES ©
cormorants, Ushuaia
(p493)
Right Purmamarca
(p251)

ANGELA N PERRYMAN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THOMAS MÜLLER WWW.ROTWEISS.TV / GETTY IMAGES ©600

Th e N at u r a l Wo rld A r g e n ti n a’ s Nati o n al Par k s Glaciar Perito Moreno (p466)

dense Nothofagus (southern beech), Araucaria araucana (aka monkey
puzzle trees) and coniferous woodlands that owe their existence to the
winter storms that sneak over the cordillera. Northern Tierra del Fuego
is a grassy extension of the Patagonian steppe, but the heavy rainfall of
the mountainous southern half supports verdant southern beech forests.

Argentina’s National Parks

Argentina’s national and provincial parks offer a huge variety of envi-
ronments, from the sweltering tropics of Parque Nacional Iguazú to the
crashing glaciers of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares to the animal-rich
coastal waters of Reserva Faunística Península Valdés.

One of Latin America’s first national park systems, Argentina’s dates
from the turn of the 20th century, when explorer and surveyor Francisco
P Moreno donated 75 sq km near Bariloche to the state in return for
guarantees that the parcel would be preserved for the enjoyment of all
Argentines. In 1934 this area became part of Parque Nacional Nahuel
Huapi, Argentina’s first national park.

Since then the country has established many other parks and reserves,
mostly but not exclusively in the Andean region. There are also impor-
tant provincial parks and reserves, such as Reserva Faunística Península
Valdés, which do not fall within the national park system but deserve
attention. Some national parks are more visitor-oriented than the pro-
vincial parks, but there are exceptions.

Visitors in Buenos Aires can stop at the national parks administra-
tion (www.parquesnacionales.gob.ar) for maps and brochures, which are
sometimes in short supply in the parks.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Survival
Guide

DIRECTORY A–Z. . . . 602 Travelers with
Disabilities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 611
Accommodations. . . . . . . . 602 Visas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 612
Courses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 604 Volunteering. . . . . . . . . . . . 612
Customs Regulations . . . . 604 Women Travelers . . . . . . . . 613
Discount Cards. . . . . . . . . . 604 Work. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 613
Electricity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 604
Embassies & TRANSPORTATION. . 614
Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . . 604
Food. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 605 GETTING THERE
Gay & Lesbian & AWAY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 614
Travelers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 605 Entering Argentina. . . . . . . 614
Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 605 Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 614
Insurance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 606 Land. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 615
Internet Access. . . . . . . . . . 606 River. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 616
Legal Matters . . . . . . . . . . . 606 GETTING AROUND. . . . . . . 616
Maps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 606 Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 616
Money. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 606 Bicycle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 616
Opening Hours. . . . . . . . . . 608 Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 617
Post. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 608 Bus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 617
Public Holidays. . . . . . . . . . 608 Car & Motorcycle. . . . . . . . 617
Safe Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 609 Hitchhiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . 619
Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 610 Local Transportation. . . . . 619
Time. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 611 Train. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 619
Toilets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 611
Tourist Information. . . . . . 611 LANGUAGE . . . . . . . . 620

602 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Directory A–Z

Accommodations ¨¨Budget and midrange type accommodations, and
hotels almost always include nearly always have a stocked
¨¨Accommodations in taxes when quoting their kitchen. They are a great
Argentina range from prices, but top-end hotels deal for groups or families
campgrounds to five- usually do not – and it’s 21%. (as they often have several
star luxury hotels. At the ¨¨Payment in cash (usually rooms), though sometimes
tourist-oriented hotels staff at midrange to top-end their off-the-beaten-track
members will speak some hotels) sometimes results location means you’ll need
English, though at more in a 10% discount. Likewise, a vehicle to reach them. A
provincial accommodations you can be charged a ‘fee’ destination’s tourist office is
you’ll be practicing your for using credit cards. a good place to find a list of
castellano (what Argentina Paying with a foreign debit local cabañas.
calls its Spanish). card is sometimes – but not
¨¨All but the cheapest always – possible at no extra Camping & Refugios
hotels have private charge.
bathrooms, and most ¨¨High season is generally ¨¨Camping can be a
accommodations include January and February splendid way to experience
breakfast – usually (when Argentines take their Argentina, particularly the
medialunas (croissants) summer breaks), Semana Lake District and Patagonia,
and weak coffee or tea. Santa (Easter week) and where there are many good
Note that many hotels July and August (except in campgrounds.
offer discounted rates for Patagonia). Reserve ahead ¨¨Many Argentine cities
extended stays, usually a during these times. Outside or towns have a fairly
week or more; negotiate this these times, prices can drop central municipal camp­
before you begin your stay. anywhere from 20% to 50%. ground, but these are
¨¨Inflation in Argentina ¨¨For online bookings try hit-a­ nd-m­ iss – sometimes
is rampant, running www.despegar.com, though delightfully woodsy, some­
(unofficially) at around 26%. you can usually get a cheaper times crowded and ugly.
To avoid getting price shock, rate by contacting the hotel ¨¨Private campgrounds
check current prices. directly. usually have good facilities:
¨¨Prices in this guidebook hot showers, toilets, laundry,
are listed in US dollars Cabañas barbecue for grilling,
rather than in pesos; many restaurant or confitería (cafe)
accommodations will also ¨¨Some tourist destinations, and small grocery store.
quote their rates in US especially at the beach or in Free campgrounds are often
dollars to combat inflation. the country, have cabañas excellent, especially in the
(cabins) for rent. These are Lake District, although they
usually stand-alone cabin- lack facilities. Municipal
campgrounds are cheap, but
BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE can become party central on
weekends.
For more accommodations reviews by Lonely Planet ¨¨Argentine camping
authors, check out lonelyplanet.com/hotels. You’ll find equipment is often more
independent reviews, as well as recommendations on expensive and inferior than
the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online. you may be used to.
¨¨Camp stoves take locally
available butane cartridges

(which should not be taken 603Directory A–Z Accommodations
on airplanes).
¨¨There are definitely SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
mosquit­ oes in Argentina, but
mosquito repellent is widely The following price ranges are typical during high season
available. and include tax. Unless otherwise stated, double rooms
¨¨Backpacking and include bathroom, and breakfast is included in the price.
backcountry camping $ less than US$75 (double room); US$15-20 (dorm bed)
opportunities abound in and $$ US$75–150 (double room)
around the national parks, $$$ more than US$150 (double room)
especially those in the Lakes
District and the south. Some Many hotels take payment in US dollars and may also
parks have free or cheap change them at a rate close to the official.
refugios (basic shelters),
which have cooking facilities who intend only very one-star places to luxurious
and rustic bunks. short stays – of two hours five-star hotels with all the
maximum. These are mostly usual top-tier services. Oddly
Estancias used by young Argentine enough, many one- and two-
couples. star hotels can prove better
¨¨Few experiences feel more ¨¨Rooms and furnishings value than three- and four-
typically Argentine than at these accommodations star lodgings.
staying at an estancia (a are modest, often basic and ¨¨In general, hotels provide a
traditional ranch, often called usually clean, and rooms room with private bathroom,
fincas in the northwest). with shared bathrooms are often a telephone and
Estancias are a wonderful the cheapest. usually a TV with cable;
way to spend time in remote some have microwaves
areas of the country – and Hostels and/or kitchenettes.
wine, horses and asados Sometimes they have a
(traditional barbecues) are ¨¨Hostels are common confitería or restaurant
almost always involved. in Argentina, and range and almost always include
¨¨Estancias are especially from basic no-frills deals breakfast, whether it be a few
common in the area around to beautiful, multi-perk medialunas with coffee or full
Buenos Aires, near Esteros offerings more luxurious American-style buffet.
del Iberá, and throughout the than your basic hotel. Most
Lake District and Patagonia, fall in between, but all have Rentals & Homestays
where they’re often geared common kitchens, living
toward anglers. They’re not areas, shared bathrooms ¨¨House and apartment
cheap, but rates generally and dorm rooms. Most have rentals often save you money
include room, board and a few private rooms with or if you’re staying in one place
some activities. without bathroom. for an extended period. This
¨¨Hostels are a great way to can be an especially good
Hospedajes, meet other travelers, both deal during high season at
Pensiones & Argentines and foreigners, resort locations, such as
Residenciales especially if you’re by Bariloche or beach cities
yourself. Social events along the Atlantic coast (just
¨¨Aside from hostels, these such as asados often take book way ahead) – especially
are Argentina’s cheapest place, and local tours can be for groups. Tourist offices
accommodations, and the offered. However, remember can be good sources for
differences among them are that Argentines are night listings, and there are always
sometimes ambiguous. owls and hostelers tend to organizations like www.
¨¨A hospedaje is usually a follow suit, so earplugs can airbnb.com.
large family home with a few be handy indeed. ¨¨During the tourist
extra bedrooms (and, gener­ ¨¨Hostel organizations, season, mostly in the
ally, a shared bathroom). which offer discounts interior, families rent rooms
¨¨Similarly, a pensión offers with membership, include to visitors. Often these
short-term accommodations Hostelling International (HI; are excellent bargains,
in a family home, but may www.hihostels.com) and HoLa permitting access to cooking
also have permanent lodgers. (www.holahostels.com). and laundry facilities while
¨¨Residenciales generally encouraging contact with
occupy buildings designed for Hotels Argentines. Tourist offices in
short-stay accommodations, many smaller towns or cities
although some (known ¨¨Argentine hotels vary sometimes maintain lists of
euphemistically as albergues from depressing, utilitarian such accommodations.
transitorios) cater to clientele

Directory A–Z Courses604 obtain discounts on
public transportation and
Courses admissions to museums. Any 220V/50Hz
official-looking university
¨¨Argentina is a hot identification may (or
destination in which to learn may not) be accepted as a
Spanish. Most opportunities substitute.
for Spanish-language ¨¨An HI card, available at
instruction are based in any HI hostel (www.hihostels.
Buenos Aires, though larger com), will get you discounts
cities such as Mendoza and on your stay at any HI facility.
Córdoba are also excellent. The HoLa (www.holahostels.
¨¨Tango classes are com) card works in a similar
hugely popular in Buenos way for a different network
Aires, where cooking of hostels.
classes – both for Argentine ¨¨Travelers over the age of
and international cuisine – 60 can sometimes obtain
are also available. senior-citizen discounts on
¨¨Asking fellow travelers museum admissions and
for recommendations is the like. Usually a passport
the best way to pick a good with date of birth is sufficient
institute, or tango and evidence of age.
cooking classes that cater to
your needs.

Customs Electricity Embassies &
Regulations Consulates
¨¨Argentina’s electric
¨¨Argentine officials are current operates on 220V, 50 Embassies and consu­lates
generally courteous and Hertz. Adapters are readily are found in Buenos Aires.
reasonable toward tourists. available from almost any Some other cities around
Electronic items, including ferretería (hardware store). Argentina (especially near
laptops, cameras and cell ¨¨Most electronic equipment the borders) also have
(mobile) phones, can be (such as cameras, consulates to certain
brought into the country telephones and computers) countries.
duty free, provided they are are dual/multi-voltage,
not intended for resale. If but if you’re bringing Australian Embassy
you have a lot of electronic something that’s not (such (%011-4779-3500; www.
equipment, however, it may as a hairdryer), use a voltage argentina.embassy.gov.au;
be useful to have a typed list converter or you might short Villanueva 1400)
of the items you are carrying out your device.
(including serial numbers) or Bolivian Embassy
a pile of purchase receipts. 220V/50Hz (%011-4394-1463; www.
¨¨If you’re entering Argentina embajadadebolivia.com.ar; Av
from a neighboring country, Corrientes 545)
officials focus on different
things. Travelers south­bound Brazilian Embassy &
from the central Andean Consulate (%011-4515-6500;
countries may be searched www.conbrasil.org.ar; Carlos
for drugs, while those from Pellegrini 1363, 5th fl)
bordering countries will Canadian Embassy (%011-
have fruits and vegetables 4808-1000; www.embassy
confiscated. Carrying illegal -canada.com; Tagle 2828)
drugs will pretty much get you Chilean Embassy (%011-
into trouble no matter which 4808-8601; www.chile.gob.cl/
country you’re coming from. argentina; Tagle 2762)
Dutch Embassy (%011-
Discount Cards 4338-0050; http://argentina.
nlembajada.org; Olga Cossettini
¨¨The International Student 831, 3rd fl)
Identity Card (ISIC) is French Embassy (%011-
available through www.isic. 4515-7030; www.embafrancia
org. It can help travelers -argentina.org; Cerrito 1399)

605

German Embassy (%011- ¨¨Although Buenos ¨¨If you develop a life- Directory A–Z Food
4778-2500; www.buenosaires. Aires (and, to a lesser threatening medical
diplo.de; Villanueva 1055) extent, Argentina’s other problem you may want to
Italian Consulate large cities) is becoming be evacuated to your home
(%011-4114-4800; www. increasingly tolerant, most country. Since this may cost
consbuenosaires.esteri.it; of the rest of Argentina thousands of dollars, be
Reconquista 572) still feels uncomfortable sure to have the appropriate
New Zealand Embassy with homosexuality. insurance before you
(%011-5070-0700; www.nz Homophobia rarely takes depart. Your embassy can
embassy.com/argentina; Carlos the form of physical also recommend medical
Pellegrini 1427, 5th fl) violence, however, and services.
Spanish Embassy (%011- gay people regularly travel ¨¨A signed and dated note
4809-4900; www.exteriores. throughout the country to from your doctor, describing
gob.es/Embajadas/buenos return home with nothing your medical conditions
aires; J Figueroa Alcorta 3102) but praise. and medications (with their
UK Embassy (%011-4808- ¨¨When it comes to public generic or scientific names)
2200; www.ukinargentina.fco. affection, Argentine is a good idea. It’s also a good
gov.uk; Dr Luis Agote 2412) men are more physically idea to bring medications
Uruguayan Embassy demonstrative than their in their clearly labeled,
(%011-4807-3040; www. North American and original containers. Most
embajadadeluruguay.com.ar; Av European counterparts. pharmacies in Argentina are
General Las Heras 1907) Behaviors such as kissing well supplied.
US Embassy (%011-5777- on the cheek in greeting ¨¨For more specific
4533; http://argentina.usem or a vigorous embrace are information on vaccinations
bassy.gov; Colombia 4300) innocuous even to those to get before traveling to
who express unease with Argentina, see wwwnc.cdc.
Food homosexuality. Lesbians gov/travel/destinations/
walking hand in hand should argentina.htm.
See Eat & Drink Like a Local attract little attention, since
(p39) for information on heterosexual Argentine Dengue Fever
Argentine cuisine. women frequently do so,
but this would be very ¨¨Dengue fever is a viral
The following price ranges conspicuous behavior for infection found throughout
refer to a standard main men. When in doubt, it’s best South America. It is
course. to be discreet. transmitted by Aedes
$ less than AR$110 mosquitoes, which prefer to
$$ AR$110–180 Health bite during the daytime and
$$$ more than AR$180 breed primarily in artificial
¨¨Argentina is a modern water containers, such
Gay & Lesbian country with good health and as cans, cisterns, plastic
Travelers dental services. Sanitation containers and discarded
and hygiene at restaurants is tires. As a result, dengue
¨¨Argentina has become relatively high, and tap water is especially common in
increasingly gay-friendly is generally safe to drink densely populated, urban
over recent years. Buenos throughout the country. If environments.
Aires is one of the world’s you want to make sure, ask ¨¨In 2009, several thousand
top gay destinations – with ‘¿Se puede tomar el agua de cases of dengue were
dedicated hotels and B&Bs; la canilla?’ (Is the tap water reported in the northern
bars and nightclubs. The drinkable?). provinces of Argentina, but
capital is home to South ¨¨Public health care in since then the numbers have
America’s largest annual Argentina is reasonably dropped dramatically.
gay pride parade and in good and free, even if you’re ¨¨Dengue usually causes
2002 became the first Latin a foreigner. Waits can be flu-like symptoms, including
American city to legalize long, however, and quality fever, muscle aches,
same-sex civil unions; in inconsistent. Those who joint pains, headaches,
July 2010 Argentina became can afford it usually opt for nausea and vomiting, often
the first Latin American the superior private-care followed by a rash. The
country to legalize same-sex system, and here most body aches may be quite
marriage. doctors and hospitals will uncomfortable, but most
expect payment in cash. cases resolve uneventfully in
Many medical personnel a few days.
speak English.

Directory A–Z Insurance606 importantly – always be
courteous and cooperative.
PRACTICALITIES ¨¨Drugs and most other
substances that are illegal in
Addresses In Argentine addresses, the word local refers the USA and many European
to a suite or office. If an address has ‘s/n’ – short for sin countries are also illegal
numero (without number) – the address has no street here, though marijuana
number. has been somewhat
decriminalized in Argentina
Laundry Affordable lavanderías are widely available in (and is legal in Uruguay).
Argentina. ¨¨If arrested, you have the
constitutional right to a
Newspapers Argentina’s biggest papers are centrist lawyer, a telephone call and
Clarín (www.clarin.com), conservative La Nación (www. to remain silent (beyond
lanacion.com.ar) and lefty Página 12 (www.pagina12. giving your name, nationality,
com.ar). The English-language daily is the Buenos Aires age and passport number).
Herald (www.buenosairesherald.com). The Argentina Don’t sign anything until you
Independent (www.argentinaindependent.com) is an speak to a lawyer. If you don’t
excellent English-language online newspaper. speak Spanish, a translator
should be provided for you.
Photography Many photo stores can affordably transfer
images from your digital camera to CD; you can also get Maps
them printed out. Old-fashioned print and slide film are
available, as is developing. ¨¨Tourist offices throughout
the country provide free city
Smoking Smoking bans differ by province. In Buenos maps that are good enough
Aires, smoking is banned in most enclosed public spac- for tooling around town.
es, including the majority of bars, restaurants and public ¨¨With offices in nearly
transportation. every Argentine city, the
Automóvil Club Argentino
Weights & Measures Metric. (ACA; Map p84; www.aca.
org.ar) publishes excellent
Insurance Internet Access maps of provinces and
cities that are particularly
¨¨A travel insurance ¨¨Wi-fi is available at many (if useful for driving. Card-
policy to cover theft, loss, not most) hotels and cafes, carrying members of foreign
medical problems and trip restaurants and airports, automobile clubs can get
cancellation or delays is a and it’s generally good and discounts.
good idea. Some policies free. ¨¨Geography nerds will
specifically exclude ¨¨Internet cafes and adore the topographic maps
dangerous activities such locutorios (telephone available from the Instituto
as scuba diving, skiing, centers) with very affordable Geográfico Nacional (%011-
rock climbing and even internet access can be found 4576-5576; www.ign.gob.ar; Av
trekking; read the fine in practically all Argentine Cabildo 381) in Buenos Aires.
print. Check that the policy towns and cities.
covers ambulances or an ¨¨To find the @ (arroba) Money
emergency flight home. symbol on keyboards, try
¨¨Keep all your paperwork holding down the Alt key ¨¨The Argentine unit of
in case you have to file a and typing 64, or typing currency is the peso (AR$).
claim later. Paying for your AltGr-2. You can also ask the ¨¨Carrying cash and an
flight with a credit card attendant ‘¿Cómo se hace la ATM card is the way to go in
often provides limited travel arroba?’ (‘How do you make Argentina.
insurance – ask your credit the@sign?’).
card company what it is ATMs
prepared to cover. Legal Matters
¨¨Worldwide travel ¨¨Cajeros automáticos
insurance is available at ¨¨Police can demand (ATMs) are found in nearly
www.lonelyplanet.com/ identification at any every city and town in
travel-insurance. You can moment and for whatever Argentina and can also be
buy, extend and claim online reason, though it’s unlikely used for cash advances
anytime – even if you’re to happen. Always carry on major credit cards.
already on the road. a photo ID or a copy of They’re the best way to get
your passport, and – most

607

money, and nearly all have problem for small purchases. Money Changers Directory A–Z Money
instructions in English. Large supermarkets and
Depending on your home restaurants are your best ¨¨US dollars are by far the
bank there are varying upper bet. Always keep a stash preferred foreign currency,
limits per withdrawal, and of change with you, in both although Chilean and
a small fee is charged on small bills and coins. Uruguayan pesos can be
ATM transactions by the readily exchanged at the
local bank (not including Credit Cards borders.
charges by your home bank). ¨¨Cash dollars and euros
You can withdraw several ¨¨Many (but not all!) tourist can be changed at banks
times per day, but beware services, larger stores, hotels and cambios (exchange
these charges – which are and restaurants – especially houses) in most larger cities,
per transaction. Banelco in the bigger cities – take but other currencies can be
ATMs tend to allow larger credit cards such as Visa and difficult to change outside
withdrawals. MasterCard. Buenos Aires.
¨¨The most widely accepted ¨¨You’ll need your passport
Cash credit cards are Visa to change money; it might
and MasterCard, though be best to avoid any sort of
¨¨Notes come in denomi­ American Express and a street-tout money changer.
nations of two, five, 10, 20, few others are valid in some
50 and 100 pesos (though establishments. Before Taxes & Refunds
new 200- and 500-peso you leave home, warn your
notes are due to be printed in credit-card company that ¨¨One of Argentina’s primary
2016, with a possible 1000- you’ll be using it abroad. state revenue-earners is
peso note to be introduced ¨¨Some businesses add a the 21% value-added tax
in 2017). recargo (surcharge) of 5% known as the Impuesto de
¨¨One peso equals 100 to 10% toward credit-card Valor Agregado (IVA). Under
centavos; coins come in purchases. Also, the actual limited circumstances,
denominations of five, 10, 25 amount you’ll eventually foreign visitors may obtain
and 50 centavos, as well as pay depends upon the IVA refunds on purchases
one and two pesos. official exchange rate not at of Argentine products upon
¨¨At present, US dollars are the time of sale, but when departing the country. A
accepted by many tourist- the purchase is posted ‘Tax Free’ window decal
oriented businesses, but you to an overseas account, (in English) identifies
should always carry some sometimes weeks later. participants in this program,
pesos. ¨¨If you use a credit card to but always check that the
¨¨Don’t be dismayed if you pay for restaurant bills, be shop is part of the tax-free
receive dirty and hopelessly aware that tips can’t usually program before making your
tattered banknotes; they’ll be be added to the bill. Many purchase.
accepted everywhere. Some lower-end hotels and private ¨¨You can obtain tax refunds
places refuse torn or marked tour companies will not on purchases of AR$70 or
foreign banknotes, however, accept credit cards. Many more made at one of these
so make sure you arrive in places will give you a small participating stores. To do
Argentina with pristine bills. discount if you pay in cash, so, present your passport
¨¨Counterfeiting, of both rather than use a credit card. to the merchant, who will
local and US bills, has
become a problem in recent TWO-TIER PRICING
years, and merchants are
very careful when accepting Over the last decade, Argentina’s popularity as a tourism
large denominations. You destination has birthed an annoying two-tier pricing
should be too; look for a system: some businesses in certain areas (mostly in
clear watermark or running Buenos Aires, but also in Patagonia and parts of the Lake
thread on the largest bills, District) charge Argentines one price and ‘nonresidents’
and get familiar with the a higher price. While you won’t find this everywhere, you
local currency before you will encounter it at some tango shows, museums, tours,
arrive in Argentina. See www. estancias (ranches), national parks, airlines and upmar-
landingpadba.com/ba ket hotels throughout the country.
-basics-counterfeit-money.
Being aware of fake bills is Many accommodations also quote prices in US dol-
especially important in dark lars rather than pesos. This doesn’t necessarily mean
places like nightclubs or you’re getting charged more than Argentines; the peso is
taxis. just so unstable that places prefer to use a currency that
¨¨Getting change from large isn’t always fluctuating.
denominations can be a

D i rec to ry A–Z Op e n i n g H o u r s608 ¨¨You can send packages
less than 2kg from any post
ARGENTINA’S ‘BLUE MARKET’ office, but anything heavier
needs to go through aduana
In December 2015 currency controls were abolished, (a customs office). In Buenos
decreasing demand for US dollars on Argentina’s ‘blue’ Aires, this office is near
(ie black) market, but you’ll still hear people on Buenos Retiro bus terminal and is
Aires’ Florida pedestrian strip calling out ‘cambio, cam- called Correo Internacional.
bio, cambio.’ These folks are best avoided. Take your passport and keep
the package open as you’ll
make out an invoice for Traveler’s Checks have to show its contents to a
you. On leaving the country customs official.
keep the purchased items ¨¨Very high commissions are ¨¨Domestic couriers, such
in your carry-on baggage. A levied on traveler’s checks, as Andreani (www.andreani.
customs official will check which are difficult to cash com.ar) and OCA (Map p58;
them and stamp your anywhere and specifically %4311-5305; www.oca.com.
paperwork, then tell you not recommended for travel ar; Viamonte 526, Microcentro),
where to obtain your refund. in Argentina. Stores will not and international couriers
Be sure to leave yourself a bit accept traveler’s checks, like DHL and FedEx are far
of extra time at the airport to and outside Buenos Aires it’s more dependable than the
get this done. even harder to change them. post office. But they’re also
far more expensive. The last
Tipping & Bargaining Opening Hours two have offices only in the
largest cities, while the first
In restaurants and cafes it’s There are always exceptions, two usually serve as their
customary to tip about 10% but the following are general connections to the interior of
of the bill for decent service. opening hours: the country.
An interesting note: when Banks 8am to 3pm or 4pm ¨¨If a package is being sent
your server is taking your bill Monday to Friday; some open till to you, expect to wait awhile
with payment away, saying 1pm Saturday. before receiving notification
‘gracias’ usually implies Bars 8pm or 9pm to between of its arrival. Nearly all
that the server should keep 4am and 6am nightly (down- parcels sent to Buenos Aires
the change as a tip. If you town, some open and close go to the international Retiro
want change back, don’t say earlier). office, near the Buquebus
‘gracias’ – say ‘cambio, por Cafes 6am to midnight or much terminal. To collect the
favor’ instead. later; open daily. package you’ll have to wait
Clubs 1am to 2am to between (sometimes hours), first
Note that tips can’t be 6am and 8am Friday and to get it and then to have it
added to credit-card bills, so Saturday. checked by customs. There’s
carry cash for this purpose. Office business hours 8am also a processing fee. Don’t
Also note that the cubier- to 5pm. expect any valuables to make
to that some restaurants Post offices 8am to 6pm it through.
charge is not a tip; it’s a sort Monday to Friday, 9am to 1pm
of ‘cover charge’ for the use Saturday. Public Holidays
of utensils and bread. Restaurants Noon to 3:30pm
Bartenders They don’t expect and 8pm to midnight or 1am Government offices and
a tip, but it’s OK to give a (later on weekends). businesses are closed on
few pesos for a drink or good Shops 9am or 10am to 8pm or Argentina’s numerous public
cocktail. 9pm Monday to Saturday. holidays. If the holiday falls
Bus porters A few pesos. on a midweek day or week-
Delivery persons A few pesos. Post end day, it’s often bumped to
Hotel cleaning staff A few the nearest Monday; if it falls
small bills per day (only at fine, ¨¨The often unreliable on a Tuesday or Thursday,
upscale hotels). Correo Argentino then the in-between days of
Hotel porters A few pesos. (www.correoargentino.com. Monday and Friday are taken
Restaurant servers 10%; 15% ar) is the government postal as holidays.
for fine restaurants with great service.
service. ¨¨Essential overseas mail Public-transportation
Spas 15%. should be sent certificado options are more limited on
Taxi drivers No tip unless they (registered). holidays, when you should re-
help with luggage; many people serve tickets far in advance.
round up to the nearest peso. Hotel booking should also be
Tour guides 10% to 15%. done ahead of time.

The following list does not Safe Travel 609D i rec to ry A–Z Saf e T r av e l
include provincial holidays, help victims of robberies and
which may vary considerably. ¨¨For tourists, Argentina is rip-offs.
January 1 Año Nuevo, New one of the safest countries
Year’s Day. in Latin America. This isn’t Pickets & Protests
February/March Carnaval. to say you should skip down
Dates vary; a Monday and Tues- the street drunk with your ¨¨Street protests have
day become holidays. money belt strapped to become part of daily life
March 24 Día de la Memoria; your head, but with a little in Argentina, especially
Memorial Day. Anniversary of common sense you can in Buenos Aires’ Plaza de
the day that started the 1976 visit Argentina’s big cities as Mayo area. Generally these
dictatorship and subsequent safely as you could London, have little effect on tourists
Dirty War. Paris or New York. That said, other than blocking traffic
March/April Semana Santa; crime has been on the rise. or making it difficult to see
Easter week. Dates vary; most Buenos Aires’ Plaza de Mayo
businesses close on ‘Good Thurs- Petty Crime and the Casa Rosada.
day’ and Good Friday; major ¨¨The country has many
travel week. ¨¨The economic crisis of gremios or sindicatos (trade
April 2 Día de las Malvinas; hon- 1999–2001 plunged a lot unions), and it seems that
ors the fallen Argentine soldiers of people into poverty, and one of them is always on
from the Islas Malvinas (Falkland street crime (pickpocketing, strike. Transportation unions
Islands) war in 1982. bag-snatching and armed sometimes go on strike,
May 1 Día del Trabajador; Labor robbery) has subsequently which can affect travelers
Day. risen, especially in Buenos directly by delaying domestic
May 25 Día de la Revolución de Aires. Here, be especially flights and bus services. It’s
Mayo; commemorates the 1810 watchful for pickpockets on always a good idea to keep
revolution against Spain. crowded buses, on the Subte your eye on the news before
June 20 Día de la Bandera; Flag and at busy ferias (street traveling.
Day. Anniversary of death of Ma- markets). Still, most people
nuel Belgrano, creator of Argenti- feel perfectly safe in the big Drivers
na’s flag and military leader. cities. In the small towns of
July 9 Día de la Independencia; the provinces you’d have to ¨¨Being a pedestrian in
Independence Day. search for a crook to rob you. Argentina is perhaps one of
¨¨Bus terminals are common the country’s more difficult
August (third Monday in places where tourists ventures. Many Argentine
August) Día del Libertador San become separated from drivers jump the gun when
Martín; marks the anniversary their possessions. For the the traffic signal is about
of José de San Martín’s death most part bus terminals are to change to green, drive
(1778–1850). safe, as they’re usually full of extremely fast and change
families traveling and saying lanes unpredictably. Even
October 12 (second Monday goodbyes, but they can also though pedestrians at
in October) Día del Respeto a be prime grounds for bag- corners and crosswalks have
la Diversidad Cultural; a day to snatchers. Always keep an legal right of way, very few
respect cultural diversity. eagle eye on your goods. This drivers respect this and will
is especially true in Buenos hardly slow down when you
November 20 (fourth Monday Aires’ Retiro station. are crossing. Be especially
in November) Día de la Sober- ¨¨At sidewalk cafe or careful of buses, which can
anía Nacional; Day of National restaurant tables, always be reckless and, because of
Sovereignty. have your bag close to you, their large size, particularly
December 8 Día de la Concep- preferably touching your dangerous.
ción Inmaculada; celebrates the body. You can also place
immaculate conception of the the strap around your leg or Police & Military
Virgin Mary. tie it around the furniture.
December 25 Navidad; Christ- Be careful showing off ¨¨The police and military
mas Day. expensive electronics like have a reputation for being
laptops, iPods or iPads. corrupt or irresponsible, but
Note that Christmas Eve and Other places to be wary both are generally helpful
New Year’s Day are treated are tourist destinations and courteous to tourists. If
as semi-holidays, and you and on crowded public you feel you’re being patted
will find some businesses transportation. down for a bribe (most often
closed for the latter half of ¨¨In Buenos Aires the if you’re driving), you can
those days. Tourist Police (%011- respond by tactfully paying
4346-5748, 0800-999-5000) up or asking the officer to
provide interpreters and accompany you to the police
station to take care of it. The
latter will likely cause the
officer to drop it – though it
could also lead you in to the

D i rec to ry A–Z T e l e ph o n e610 Cell Phones from another cell phone, you
labyrinthine bureaucracy don’t need to dial ‘15.’
of the Argentine police ¨¨It’s best to bring your ¨¨You don’t need to dial
system. Pretending you don’t own unlocked tri- or quad- ‘15’ to send text messages.
understand Spanish may band GSM cell phone to Whatsapp is a popular way
also frustrate a potential Argentina, then buy an of sending free texts in
bribe. inexpensive SIM chip (you’ll Argentina, providing both
get a local number) and parties have it installed.
Telephone credits (or carga virtual) as
needed. Both SIM chips and Phone Cards
¨¨To use street phones, you’ll credits can be bought at
pay with regular coins or many kiosks or locutorios; ¨¨Telephone calling cards
tarjetas telefónicas (magnetic look for ‘recarga facil’ or are sold at many kiosks
phone cards available at ‘saldo virtual’ signs. Many and make domestic and
many kiosks). You’ll only be Argentines use this system international calls far
able to speak for a limited with their cell phones, and cheaper than calling direct.
time before you get cut off, you can buy SIM chips with However, they must be used
so carry enough credit. data as well for wi-fi access. from a fixed line such as a
¨¨Toll-free numbers begin Phone unlocking services are home or hotel telephone
with %0800; these calls available; ask around. (provided you can dial
can only be made within ¨¨You can also buy cell outside the hotel). They
Argentina. Numbers that phones that use SIM chips; cannot be used at most pay
start with %0810 are these usually include some phones.
charged at a local rate credits for your first batch ¨¨Some locutorios allow you
only, no matter where of calls. Be careful renting to use them, and although
(in Argentina) you are phones as they’re not usually they levy a surcharge, the call
calling from. a better deal than outright is still cheaper than dialing
¨¨The cheapest way to buying a cell phone. direct. When purchasing one,
make an international call ¨¨If you plan to travel with tell the clerk the country you
is to use an online service an iPhone or other G3 smart will call so they give you the
(such as Skype or Google phone, prepare yourself – right card.
Voice) or use a phone card. you may need to purchase
International calls can be an international plan to Locutorios &
made at locutorios but avoid being hit with a huge Internet Cafes
they’re more expensive this bill for roaming costs. On
way. When dialing abroad, the other hand, it’s possible ¨¨The easiest way to make
dial %00, followed by the to call internationally for a local phone call is to find a
code of the country you’re free or very cheap using a locutorio, a small telephone
calling, then the area code VoIP (Voice over Internet office that has private cabins
and number. Protocol) system such as where you make calls and
Skype. This is a constantly then pay at the register.
Directory Assistance changing field, so do some ¨¨Locutorios are fairly
(%110) research before you travel. common everywhere. They
Fire (%100) ¨¨Cell phone numbers cost about the same as
Medical Emergency in Argentina are always street phones, are much
(%107) preceded by ‘15.’ If you’re quieter and you won’t run out
Police (%101, in some larger calling a cell phone number of coins. Most locutorios are
cities 911) from a landline, you’ll have supplied with phone books.
Tourist Police (%011-4346- to dial ‘15’ first (add the ¨¨When making international
5748, 0800-999-5000) In area code before the ‘15’ calls from locutorios ask
Buenos Aires. as necessary). However, if about off-peak discount
you’re calling a cell phone hours, which generally apply
after 10pm and on weekends.
ELECTRONICS WARNING Making international calls
over the internet using Skype
Note that buying a smart phone, and especially an is a cheap option; many
iPhone, is extremely expensive in Argentina due to internet cafes have this
import restrictions – and they are not widely available. system in place.
If you do bring your smart phone, don’t flash it around ¨¨Faxes are cheap and widely
unnecessarily or leave it unprotected somewhere. This available at most locutorios
goes for tablet computers and laptop computers, too. and internet cafes.

611

CALLING ARGENTINA office, usually on or near Directory A–Z Time
the main plaza or at the bus
To call a number in Argentina from another country, dial terminal. Each Argentine
your international exit code, then the country code for province also has its own
Argentina, then the area code (without the zero) and representation in Buenos
number. For example, if you’re calling a Buenos Aires Aires. Most of these are well
landline number from the United States, you’d dial: organized, often offering
a computerized database
¨¨%011-54-11-xxxx-xxxx of tourist information, and
can be worth a visit before
¨¨%011 is the United States’ international exit code heading for the provinces.

¨¨%54 is Argentina’s country code Travelers with
Disabilities
¨¨%11 is Buenos Aires’ city code without the beginning
zero ¨¨Negotiating Argentina
as a disabled traveler is
¨¨xxxx-xxxx is your local Buenos Aires phone number, not the easiest of tasks.
usually eight digits Those in wheelchairs in
particular will quickly realize
When dialing an Argentine cell phone from another that many cities’ narrow,
country, dial your international exit code, then 54, then 9, busy and uneven sidewalks
then the area code without the 0, then the number – are difficult to negotiate.
leaving out the 15 (which most Argentine cell phone Crossing streets is also a
numbers start with). For example, if you’re calling a problem, since not every
Buenos Aires cell phone number from the United States, corner has ramps (which are
you’d dial: often in need of repair) and
traffic can be ruthless when
¨¨%011-54-9-11-xxxx-xxxx it comes to pedestrians and
wheelchair-users.
Time ¨¨Always carry your own ¨¨A few buses do have piso
toilet paper, since it often bajo – they ‘kneel’ and have
¨¨Argentina is three hours runs out in public restrooms, extra-large spaces – but the
behind GMT and generally and don’t expect luxuries Subte (subway) in Buenos
does not observe daylight such as soap, hot water and Aires does not cater to the
saving time (though this paper towels either. mobility-impaired.
situation can easily change). ¨¨In smaller towns, some ¨¨International hotel chains
When it’s noon in Argentina, public toilets charge a small often have wheelchair-
it’s 7am in San Francisco, fee for entry. Changing accessible rooms, as do
10am in New York, 3pm in facilities for babies are not other less fancy hotels.
London and 1am the next always available. Some restaurants, tourist
day in Sydney (add one hour ¨¨Some may find bidets sights and public buildings
to these destinations during a novelty; they are those have ramps, but bathrooms
their daylight saving times). strange shallow, ceramic are not always wheelchair-
¨¨Argentina uses the bowls with knobs and a drain, accessible (in bigger cities,
24-hour clock in written often accompanying toilets shopping malls are a good
communications, but both in hotel bathrooms. They are bet for these).
the 12- and 24-hour clocks meant for between-shower ¨¨In Buenos Aires, QRV
can be used conversationally. cleanings of nether regions. Transportes Especiales
Turn knobs slowly, or you (%011-4306-6635, 011-
Toilets may end up spraying yourself 15-6863-9555; www.
or the ceiling. qrvtransportes.com.ar) offers
¨¨Public toilets in Argentina private transportation
are better than in most of Tourist and city tours in vans fully
South America, but there Information equipped for wheelchair
are certainly exceptions. users.
For the truly squeamish, ¨¨Argentina’s national tourist ¨¨Other than the use of
the better restaurants and board is the Ministerio de Braille on ATMs, little effort
cafes are good alternatives. Turismo (www.turismo. has been dedicated to
Large shopping malls often gov.ar); its main office is in bettering accessibility for the
have public bathrooms, as Buenos Aires. vision impaired. Stoplights
do international fast-food ¨¨Almost every destination
chains. city or town has a tourist

Directory A–Z Visas612 chance they won’t be asked for a day or two before your
are rarely equipped with for either document. visa expires, then return with
sound alerts. ¨¨Depending on your a new 90-day visa. However,
¨¨The Biblioteca Argentina nationality, very short visits this only works if you don’t
Para Ciegos (Argentine to neighboring countries need a visa to enter the other
Library for the Blind; BAC; sometimes do not require country.
%011-4981-0137; www. visas. For instance, you
bac.org.ar; Lezica 3909) in might not be asked for a Volunteering
Buenos Aires maintains a Brazilian visa to cross from
Braille collection of books the Argentine town of Puerto ¨¨There are many
in Spanish, as well as other Iguazú to Foz do Iguaçu, as opportunities for
resources. long as you return the same volunteering in Argentina,
Also check out the following day – but doing so is at your from food banks to villas
international organizations: own risk. miserias (shantytowns)
Flying Wheels Travel (www. ¨¨The same is true at the to organic farms. Some
flyingwheelstravel.com) Bolivian border town of ask for just your time, or
Mobility International USA Villazón, near La Quiaca. a modest fee – and some
(www.miusa.org) Officials at Paraguayan charge hundreds of dollars
Society for Accessible Travel & crossings can give day- (with likely a low percentage
Hospitality (www.sath.org) stamps, however. Check of money going directly
current regulations for the to those in need). Before
Visas latest situation. choosing an organization,
it’s good to talk to other
¨¨Nationals of the USA, Visa Extensions volunteers about their
Canada, most Western experiences.
European countries, ¨¨For a 90-day extension on Aldea Luna (www.aldealuna.
Australia and New Zealand your tourist visa, get ready com.ar) Work on a farm in a
do not need a visa to visit for bureaucracy and visit nature reserve.
Argentina. Upon arrival, Buenos Aires’ immigration Anda Responsible Travel
most visitors get a 90-day office Dirección Nacional (www.andatravel.com.ar/en/
stamp in their passport. de Migraciones (%4317- volunteering) Buenos Aires
Those from the USA, Canada 0234; www.migraciones.gov. travel agency supporting local
and Australia, however, must ar/accesibleingles/?categorias; communities.
pay a significant ‘reciprocity Antártida Argentina 1355; Centro Conviven (http://
fee’ before arriving. h8am-2pm Mon-Fri). The centroconviven.blogspot.com)
¨¨Dependent children fee is currently AR$600 for Helps kids in Buenos Aires’ villas
traveling without both non-Mercosur nationals. (shantytowns).
parents theoretically need Interestingly enough, the fee Conservación Patagonica
a notarized document for overstaying your visa is (www.conservacionpatagonica.
certifying that both parents also AR$600 (but this can org/) Help to create a national
agree to the child’s travel. change). park.
Parents may also wish to ¨¨Another option if you’re Eco Yoga Park (www.eco
bring a copy of the custody staying more than three yogavillages.org/volunteer-pro-
form; however, there’s a good months is to cross into grams) Work on an organic farm,
Colonia or Montevideo (both construct ecobuildings and teach
in Uruguay; Colonia can be local communities.
an easy day trip) or into Chile Fundación Banco de Ali-
mentos (www.bancode
ARGENTINA’S RECIPROCITY FEE alimentos.org.ar) Short-term
work at a food bank.
Citizens from some countries have to pay a reciprocity Habitat for Humanity
fee (tasa de reciprocidad) before arriving in Argentina; Argentina (www.hpha.org.ar)
ideally you’ll be reminded of this when you buy your Building communities.
airplane ticket. This fee is equal to what Argentines are Patagonia Volunteer (www.
charged for visas to visit those countries. You’ll need to patagoniavolunteer.org) Oppor-
pay this fee online via credit card; see www.migraciones. tunities in Patagonia.
gov.ar/accesibleingles and click on ‘Reciprocity Fee.’ Volunteer South America
(www.volunteersouthamerica.
These fees are US$100 for Australians (good for one net) List of NGOs offering
year), US$160 for Americans (good for 10 years) and volunteer opportunities in South
US$92 for Canadians (good until a month before your America.
passport expires). Check current regulations as rules
can change quickly.

613

WWOOF Argentina (www. getting these ‘compliments’ throughout the day and D i rec to ry A–Z W o m e n T r av e l e r s
wwoofargentina.com) Organic and most men don’t cancelled classes. Institute
farming in Argentina. necessarily mean to be turnover is high and most
insulting; they’re just doing people don’t teach for more
Women Travelers what males in their culture than a year.
are brought up to do. ¨¨A TEFL certification can
¨¨Being a woman traveling ¨¨On the plus side of certainly help but isn’t
in Argentina can sometimes machismo, expect men to mandatory for all jobs (check
be a challenge, especially if hold a door open for you and out www.teflbuenosaires.
you are young, alone and/ let you enter first, including com). You’ll make more
or maintaining an inflexible getting on buses; this gives money teaching private
liberal attitude. In some ways you a better chance at students, but it takes time to
Argentina is a safer place for grabbing an empty seat, so gain a client base. And you
a woman than Europe, the get in there quick. should take into account
USA and most other Latin slow periods, such as
American countries, but Work December through February,
dealing with its machismo when many locals leave town
culture can be a real pain in ¨¨Unless you have a special on summer vacation.
the ass. skill, business and/or speak ¨¨To find a job, call up the
¨¨Some males brimming Spanish, it’s hard to find paid institutes or visit expat
with testosterone feel the work in Argentina other than bars and start networking.
need to comment on a teaching English – or perhaps March is when institutes are
woman’s attractiveness. putting time in at a hostel or ramping up their courses,
This often happens when expat bar. And it’s good to so it’s the best time to find
the woman is alone and realize that you’re not likely to work. Many teachers work
walking by on the street; get rich doing these things. on tourist visas (which is not
it occasionally happens to ¨¨Native English speakers a big deal), heading over to
two or more women walking usually work out of language Uruguay every three months
together, but never to a institutes. Twenty hours for a new visa or visiting the
heterosexual couple. Verbal a week of actual teaching immigration office for a visa
comments include crude is about enough for most extension.
language, hisses, whistles people (note you aren’t ¨¨For job tips, check
and piropos (flirtatious paid for prep time or travel out www.landingpadba.
comments), which are often time, which can add another com/jobs-and-working
vulgar – although some can hour or two for each hour -in-argentina. There are
be eloquent. of teaching). Frustrations job postings at http://
¨¨The best thing to do include dealing with buenosaires.en.craigslist.
is completely ignore the unpleasant institutes, time org, and you can try posting
comments. After all, many spent cashing checks at the on expat website forums
Argentine women enjoy bank, classes being spread such as www.baexpats.org.

61 4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Transportation

GETTING THERE the date the passport holder denied entrance once you’re
& AWAY leaves the country. in Argentina. Check with your
¨¨Once you’re in Argentina, airline for details.
¨¨Flights, tours and rail police can still demand
tickets can be booked identification at any moment Air
online at lonelyplanet.com/ (but rarely do without
bookings. reason), so carry at least a ¨¨Argentina has direct flights
photocopy of your passport between North America, the
Entering around at all times (when UK, Europe, Australia and
Argentina it will also come in handy South Africa, and from nearly
for entering government all South American countries.
¨¨Entering Argentina is buildings, getting tax-free You can also fly to a neigh­bor­
straightforward; immigration purchases, changing money ing country, such as Brazil or
officials at airports are at a bank etc). Chile, and continue overland
generally quick and to the to Argentina.
point, while those at border Onward Ticket
crossings may take more Airports & Airlines
time scrutinizing your ¨¨When entering by air, you
documents and belongings. officially must have a return ¨¨Most international flights
¨¨Citizens from the United ticket, though this is rarely arrive at Buenos Aires’
States, Canada and Australia asked for by officials once Aeropuerto Internacional
have to pay a reciprocity fee you’re in Argentina. However, Ministro Pistarini (Ezeiza;
(p612) before entering it is commonly asked for %011-5480-6111; www.aa2000.
Argentina. by the airline in the country com.ar), which is a 40- to
of origin. Most airlines 60-minute shuttle bus or taxi
Passports prohibit the boarding of any ride out of town (35km).
passengers without proof ¨¨Close to downtown
¨¨Anyone entering Argentina of onward travel, regardless Buenos Aires is Aeroparque
should have a passport valid of whether the person was Internacional Jorge
for at least six months from sold a one-way ticket or not. Newbery (Aeroparque; %011-
date of entry, and ideally past They do this becase they’d 5480-6111; www.aa2000.com.
be responsible for flying you ar), which handles mostly
back home should you be

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause
of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on airplanes, which might
use less fuel per kilometer per person than most cars but travel much greater distances.
The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to
their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people
to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to
do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to port­
folios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the car-
bon footprint of all staff and author travel.

615

ARRIVAL TIPS: AEROPUERTO INTERNACIONAL Transportation L and
MINISTRO PISTARINI (EZEIZA)

¨¨If you want to change money at Ezeiza, note that the cambios (exchange houses) there
generally offer bad rates. Better rates are found at the local bank branch; after exiting
customs into the reception hall, make a U-turn to the right to find Banco de la Nación’s
small office. Its also has an ATM and is open 24 hours, though long lines are common.
There are other ATMs at Ezeiza, too, all of which offer the official exchange rate.

¨¨There’s a tourist information booth just beyond the city’s ‘Taxi Ezeiza’ stand.

¨¨Shuttle buses and taxis frequently run from Ezeiza to the center.

¨¨When flying out of Ezeiza, get there at least two to three hours before your
international flight. Security and immigration lines can be long, and be aware that
traffic is often bad getting to Ezeiza – it can take an hour or more to go the 35km from
downtown BA.

domestic flights but also a Salta go to Salvador Mazza at combination. It takes two
few international ones from the Bolivian border, where you days in winter.
neighboring countries. cross and grab a shared taxi to
¨¨There are several other Yacuiba. ¨¨El Calafate to Puerto
international airports around Natales and Parque
Argentina. Basic information BRAZIL Nacional Torres del Paine
on most Argentine airports ¨¨The most common Probably the most beaten
can be found online at crossing is from Puerto route down here, heading
Aeropuertos Argentina Iguazú to Foz do Iguaçu. from the Glaciar Perito
2000 (www.aa2000.com.ar). Check both cities for Moreno (near El Calafate) to
¨¨Aerolíneas Argentinas more information on the Parque Nacional Torres del
(www.aerolineas.com.ar) is peculiarities of this border Paine (near Puerto Natales).
the national carrier and crossing, especially if you’re Several buses per day in
has a decent international crossing the border into summer; one to two daily in
reputation. Brazil only to see the other the off-season.
side of Iguazú Falls. There
Land is also a border crossing ¨¨Los Antiguos to Chile
from Paso de los Libres to Chico Those entering
Border Crossings Uruguaiana (Brazil). Argentina from Chile can
access the rugged RN
¨¨There are numerous CHILE 40 from here and head
border crossings from There are numerous cross- down to El Chaltén and El
neighboring Bolivia, Brazil, ings between Argentina and Calafate. Best in summer,
Chile, Paraguay and Uruguay; Chile. Except in far south- when there’s actually public
the following lists are only the ern Patagonia, every land transportation available.
principal crossings. Border crossing involves crossing
formalities are generally the Andes. Due to weather, ¨¨Mendoza to Santiago
straightforward as long as all some high-altitude passes The most popular crossing
your docu­ments are in order. close in winter; even the busy between the two countries,
Mendoza–­Santiago route passing 6962m Aconcagua
BOLIVIA over RN 7 can close for sev- en route.
La Quiaca to Villazón Many eral days (sometimes longer)
buses go from Jujuy and Salta during a severe storm. Al- ¨¨Salta to San Pedro
to La Quiaca, where you walk ways check road conditions, de Atacama (via Jujuy,
across a bridge to the Bolivian especially if you have a flight Purmamarca and Susques)
border. scheduled on the other side A 10-hour bus ride through
Aguas Blancas to Bermejo From of the mountains. The follow- the altiplano with stunningly
Orán, reached by bus from Salta or ing are the most commonly beautiful scenery.
Jujuy, take a bus to Aguas Blancas used crossings:
and then Bermejo, where you can ¨¨Bariloche to Puerto ¨¨Ushuaia to Punta Arenas
catch a bus to Tarija. Montt This border crossing Daily buses in summer,
Salvador Mazza (Pocitos) to over the Andes to Chile is fewer in winter, on this 10-
Yacuiba Buses from Jujuy or usually no fuss; an optional to 12-hour trip (depending
‘tour’ is the famous, on weather conditions),
scenic 12-hour bus-boat which includes a ferry
crossing at either Porvenir
or Punta Delgada/Primera
Angostura.

Tr a nsp o rtati o n R i v er616 GETTING ¨¨Road bikes are suitable
PARAGUAY & URUGUAY AROUND for many paved roads, but
¨¨There are two direct byways are often narrow
border crossings between Air and surfaces can be rough.
Argentina and Paraguay: A todo terreno (mountain
Clorinda to Asunción, and Airlines in Argentina bike) is often safer and more
Posadas to Encarnación. convenient, allowing you to
From Puerto Iguazú, ¨¨The national carrier, use the unpaved shoulder
Argentina, you can also cross Aerolíneas Argentinas and the very extensive
through Brazil into Ciudad (www.aerolineas.com.ar), network of gravel roads
del Este, Paraguay. offers the most domestic throughout the country.
¨¨Border crossings flights, but it’s not Argentine bicycles are
from Argentine cities to necessarily better than its improving in quality, but are
Uruguayan cities include competitors. Other airlines still far from equal to their
Gualeguaychú to Fray with domestic flights include counterparts in Europe or
Bentos; Colón to Paysandú; LAN (www.lan.com) and the USA.
and Concordia to Salto. All Líneas Aéreas del Estado ¨¨There are two major
involve crossing bridges. (LADE; www.lade.com.ar), the drawbacks to long-distance
Buses from Buenos Aires air force’s passenger service. bicycling in Argentina. One is
to Montevideo and other The latter has some of the the wind, which in Patagonia
waterfront cities, however, least expensive air tickets can slow your progress to a
are slower and less and specializes in Patagonia, crawl. The other is Argentine
convenient than the ferries but it has very few flights and motorists: on many of the
(or ferry-bus combinations) most are short hops. country’s straight, narrow,
across the Río de la Plata. ¨¨Demand for flights around two-lane highways, they
the country can be heavy, can be a serious hazard to
Bus especially during some cyclists. Make yourself as
holidays (such as Christmas visible as possible, and wear
¨¨Travelers can bus to or Easter) and the vacation a helmet.
Argentina from most months of January, February ¨¨Bring an adequate repair
bordering countries. Buses and July. Seats are often kit and extra parts and stock
are usually comfortable, booked out well in advance up on good maps, which is
modern and fairly clean. so reserve as far ahead as usually easier to do once
Crossing over does not possible. you’re in Argentina. Always
involve too many hassles; ¨¨Nearly all domestic confirm directions and
just make sure that you have flights land at Aeroparque inquire about conditions
any proper visas beforehand. Internacional Jorge locally. In Patagonia, a
Newbery (Aeroparque; %011- windbreaker and warm
River 5480-6111; www.aa2000.com. clothing are essential. Don’t
ar), a short distance north of expect much traffic on some
There are several river cross- downtown Buenos Aires. It’s back roads.
ings between Uruguay and worth noting that Argentina’s
Buenos Aires that involve domestic flight system can Rental
ferry or hydrofoil, and often be very unreliable – flights
require combinations with are often cancelled or ¨¨Bicycle rentals (mostly
buses. delayed, and there can be mountain bikes) are available
¨¨Buenos Aires to Colonia frequent labor strikes. It in many popular tourist
Daily ferries (one to three might be a good idea to avoid destinations, such as along
hours) head to Colonia, tight itineraries; for example, the Atlantic coast, Mendoza,
with bus connections to leave a day’s cushion in Bariloche and other towns
Montevideo (an additional between your domestic and throughout the Lake District
three hours). international flights. and Córdoba’s Central
¨¨Buenos Aires to Sierras. Prices are by the hour
Montevideo High-speed Bicycle or day, and are affordable.
ferries carry passengers
from downtown Buenos ¨¨If you dig cycling your way Purchase
Aires to the Uruguayan around a country, Argentina
capital in only 2¼ hours. has potential. You’ll see the ¨¨Many towns have bike
¨¨Tigre to Carmelo Regular landscape in greater detail, shops, but high-quality bikes
passenger launches speed have far more freedom than are expensive, and repair
from the Buenos Aires you would if beholden to parts can be hard to come by.
suburb of Tigre to Carmelo in public transportation, and If you do decide to buy while
2½ hours (services also go to likely meet more locals. you’re here, you’re best off
Montevideo from Tigre). doing so in Buenos Aires –
selection in other major cities
can be pretty slim.

617

Boat El Calafate is one notable town or city, there are often Tr a nsp o rtati o n B oat
exception. downtown agencies selling
¨¨Opportunities for boat or ¨¨Two websites that sell long- tickets without commission.
river travel in and around distance bus tickets online
Argentina are limited, (and without commission) Seasonal Services
though there are regular are www.plataforma10.com
international services to/ and www.omnilineas.com. ¨¨In the Lake District and
from Uruguay and to/from northern Patagonia, bus
Chile via the Lake District. Classes & Costs services are good during
Further south, from Ushuaia, summer (November through
operators offer boat trips on ¨¨Most bus lines have March), when there are
the Beagle Channel in Tierra modern coaches with many microbus routes to
del Fuego. spacious, comfortable campgrounds, along lake
¨¨Otherwise, if you must seats, large windows, air- circuits, to trailheads and to
be on the water, head to conditioning, TVs, toilets other destinations popular
the Buenos Aires suburb (bring toilet paper) and with tourists. Outside
of Tigre, where there are sometimes an attendant summer, however, these
numerous boat excursions serving coffee and snacks. services slow way down.
around the delta of the Río de ¨¨On overnight trips it’s ¨¨In Patagonia the famed
la Plata. well worth the extra pesos stretch of RN 40, or Ruta
to go coche cama (sleeper Nacional Cuarenta (Route
Bus class); seats are wide, 40), was once infrequently
recline almost flat and traveled and rough – though
¨¨If you’re doing any serious are very comfortable. For most of it is now paved (it’s
traveling around Argentina, even more luxury there’s still good to have a 4WD
you’ll become very familiar ejecutivo (executive), which for side roads, however).
with the country’s excellent is available on a few popular But there’s still little public
bus network. Long-distance runs. For less luxury, semi- transportation despite the
buses (known as micros) cama (semisleeper) seats road improvements, and
are fast, surprisingly are manageable. If pinching it’s mostly via expensive,
comfortable and can be a pesos, común (common) is summertime microbus
rather luxurious experience. the cheapest class. For trips ‘tours.’
It’s the way most Argentines less than about five hours,
get around. Larger luggage there’s usually no choice and Car & Motorcycle
is stowed in the hold below, buses are común or semi-
security is generally good cama, which are both usually ¨¨Because Argentina
(especially on the 1st-class just fine. is so large, many parts
buses) and attendants tag ¨¨Bus fares vary widely are accessible only by
your bags. If you have a long depending on the season, private vehicle, despite the
trip – say, Buenos Aires to class and company. country’s extensive public
Mendoza – overnight buses Patagonia runs tend to be transportation system. This is
are the way to go, saving you the most expensive. Many especially true in Patagonia,
a night’s accommodations. companies accept credit where distances are great
¨¨Most cities and towns cards. and buses can be infrequent.
have a central bus terminal
where each company has Reservations Automobile
its own ticket window. Some Associations
companies post schedules ¨¨Often you don’t need to
prominently, and the ticket buy bus tickets beforehand ¨¨Whenever driving in
price and departure time unless you’re traveling on a Argentina, it’s worth being
is always on the ticket you Friday between major cities, a member of the Automóvil
buy. Expect restrooms, left when overnight coche cama Club Argentino (ACA; Map
luggage, fast-food stalls, services sell out fast. During p84; www.aca.org.ar), which
kiosks and newspaper holiday stretches, such as has offices, gas stations
vendors inside or near late December through and garages throughout
almost every large terminal. February, July and August, the country and offers road
In tourist destination cities tickets sell quickly. As soon service and towing in and
they’ll often have a tourist as you arrive somewhere, around major destinations.
information office. There especially if it’s a town with ACA recognizes members
are generally few if any limited services, find out of most overseas auto clubs
hotel touts or other traveler- which companies go to your and grants them privileges
hassling types at terminals; next destination and when, including road service and
and plan your trip. discounts on maps and
¨¨When the bus terminal accommodations. Bring
is on the outskirts of a big your card.

618 Tr a nsp o rtati o n C ar & M otorcycle Patagonia it’s a good idea to obtaining a CDI (a tax ID
carry extra fuel. number) and paying for the
Bringing Your vehicle in cash. To buy a used
Own Vehicle Rental vehicle, you must transfer
the title at a title transfer
¨¨Chile is probably the best ¨¨To rent a car, you must be office, with the current
country on the continent at least 21 years of age and owner and all their proper
for shipping a vehicle from have a credit card and valid papers present. Make sure all
overseas, though Argentina driver’s license from your licenses, unpaid tickets and
is feasible. Getting the country. Agencies rarely ask taxes have been paid.
vehicle out of customs for an International Driving ¨¨Speaking Spanish helps.
typically involves routine but Permit. Getting insurance without
time-consuming paperwork. ¨¨When you rent a vehicle a DNI (national document)
find out how many can be difficult but not
Driver’s License & kilometers are included. impossible. As a foreigner
Documents Unlimited-kilometer deals without a DNI you may
exist but are usually much own a vehicle in Argentina;
¨¨An International Driving more expensive, depending however, you theoretically
Permit can supplement your on the destination. cannot take it out of the
national or state driver’s ¨¨Reserving a car with one country without a notarized
license, though car-rental of the major international authorization, which can be
agencies are unlikely to agencies in your home difficult to obtain.
ask you for one. If you are country often gets you ¨¨It’s wise to supplement this
stopped, police will inspect lower rates; you can also try information with your own
your automobile registration online sites such as www. current research.
and insurance and tax despegar.com.
documents, all of which must ¨¨One of the cheapest places Insurance
be up to date. to rent a car is Bariloche; if
¨¨Drivers of Argentine you’re heading to Patagonia ¨¨Liability insurance is
vehicles must carry their title for example, this is a good obligatory in Argentina, and
document (tarjeta verde or place to rent. Taking a rental police ask to see proof of
‘green card’); if it’s a rental, car into Chile might be insurance at checkpoints.
make sure it’s in the glove allowed for an extra fee. ¨¨If you plan on taking the
box. For foreign vehicles, ¨¨For motorcycle rentals, car to neighboring countries,
customs permission is the you must be at least 25 years make sure it will remain
acceptable substitute. of age; head to Motocare covered (you’ll have to pay
¨¨Liability insurance is (%4761-2696; www.motocare. extra).
obligatory, and police often com.ar/rental; Echeverria 738, ¨¨Among reputable insurers
ask to see proof of insurance Vicente Lopez, Buenos Aires) in Argentina are Mapfre
at checkpoints. located in Buenos Aires (or (www.mapfre.com.ar) and ACA
Neuquén). Honda Transalp (www.aca.org.ar).
Fuel 700s are available; bring
your own helmet and riding Road Rules &
¨¨Nafta (gas) prices are gear. For driving outside big Hazards
more expensive than the US. cities only.
Avoid común (regular) as it’s ¨¨Anyone considering
usually low quality. Super Purchase driving in Argentina should
and premium are better know that Argentine
choices. In Patagonia gas ¨¨Purchasing a vehicle drivers are aggressive and
prices are about a third less in Argentina can be commonly ignore speed
than elsewhere. complicated for foreigners. limits, road signs and even
¨¨Estaciones de servicio (gas This usually involves having traffic signals.
stations) are fairly common, a permanent local address, ¨¨Night driving is not
but outside the cities keep recommended; in many
an eye on your gas gauge. In regions animals hang out on
the road for warmth.
A HANDY WEBSITE FOR DRIVERS ¨¨Have on hand some
emergency reflectors
A very handy website for those driving around Argentina (balizas) and a fire
is www.ruta0.com. Among other things, you can punch extinguisher (matafuego).
in two destinations and get the recommended routes ¨¨Headrests are required for
(and whether they’re paved or not), distances in kilo- the driver and passengers,
meters, driving times and even how much it will cost in and seatbelts are obligatory
gas consumption. Now if it could only warn you where to (though few wear them).
avoid those crazy Argentine drivers.

619

¨¨Motorcycle helmets are but potentially serious risk. meters, that have fixed fares Tr a nsp o rtati o n H i tchh i k i n g
also obligatory, although this People who do choose (comparable to taxis) within
law is rarely enforced. to hitch will be safer if a given zone. Any business
¨¨You won’t often see police they travel in pairs and let will phone one for you if
patrolling the highways, someone know where they you ask.
but might meet them at are planning to go. ¨¨Where public
major intersections and transportation is scarce
roadside checkpoints where Local it’s possible to hire a taxi or
they conduct meticulous Transportation remise with a driver for the
document and equipment day. This can be especially
checks. Sometimes these Bus convenient and economical
checks are pretexts for graft. for a group, especially for
If you are uncertain about ¨¨Local Argentine buses, taking an area tour. Always
your rights, politely state called colectivos, are negotiate the fee in advance.
your intention to contact notorious for charging down
your embassy or consulate. the street and spewing Train
If you do want to pay a bribe clouds of black smoke while
for the sake of expediency, traveling at breakneck ¨¨For many years there
ask ‘¿Puedo pagar la multa speeds. Riding on them is were major reductions in
ahora?’ (‘Can I pay the fine a good way to see the cities long-distance train services
now?’). and get around, providing in Argentina, but recent
you can sort out the often years have seen some rail
Hitchhiking complex bus systems. lines being progressively
Buses are clearly numbered reopened.
¨¨Along with Chile, Argentina and usually carry a placard ¨¨Good sources for
is probably the best country indicating their final information are www.seat61.
for hitchhiking (hacer dedo) destination. Sometimes, com/southamerica.htm and
in all of South America. identically numbered buses www.sofse.gob.ar.
The major drawback is that serve slightly different routes ¨¨Trains serve most of
Argentine vehicles are often (especially in big cities), so Buenos Aires and some
stuffed full with families pay attention to the placards. surrounding provinces.
and children, but truckers To ask ‘Does this bus go (to During the holiday periods,
will sometimes pick up the town center)?’ say ‘¿Va such as Christmas or
backpackers. A good place este colectivo (al centro)?’ national holidays, buy tickets
to ask is at estaciones de ¨¨Most city buses operate in advance.
servicio on the outskirts on coins; you pay as you ¨¨Train fares tend to be lower
of large Argentine cities, board. In some cities, such than comparable bus fares,
where truckers gas up their as Buenos Aires, Mendoza but trains are slower and
vehicles. or Mar del Plata, you must there are fewer departure
¨¨In Patagonia, where buy transportation cards, times and destinations.
distances are great and purchased at many kiosks. ¨¨Long-distance trains have
vehicles few, hitchers should sleepers.
expect long waits and carry Subway ¨¨Train buffs will want to
warm, windproof clothing take the narrow-gauge La
and refreshments. ¨¨Buenos Aires is the only Trochita, which runs 20km
¨¨Having a sign will Argentine city with a subway between Esquel and Nahuel
improve your chances for a system (known as the Pan. Another legendary
pickup, especially if it says Subte), and it’s the quickest ride is Salta’s touristy but
something like visitando and cheapest way of getting spectacular Tren a las
Argentina de Canada around the city center. Nubes (Train to the Clouds),
(‘visiting Argentina from which at one point spans
Canada’), rather than just a Taxi & Remise a desert canyon at an
destination. Argentines are altitude of 4220m – though
fascinated by foreigners. ¨¨The people of Buenos it’s famously unreliable.
¨¨Be aware that hitchhiking Aires make frequent use And finally, the scenic
is never entirely safe in any of taxis, which are digitally Tren Patagónico connects
country in the world, and metered and cheap by US Bariloche to Viedma.
we don’t recommend it. and European standards.
Travelers who decide to Outside the capital, meters
hitch should understand are common but not
that they are taking a small universal, and you’ll need to
agree on a fare in advance.
¨¨Remises are unmarked
radio taxis, usually without

620 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Language

Latin American Spanish pronunciation is Excuse me. Perdón. per·don
easy, as most sounds have equivalents in
English. Read our colored pronunciation Sorry. Lo siento. lo syen·to
guides as if they were English, and you’ll be
understood. Note that kh is a throaty sound Please. Por favor. por fa·vor
(like the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch), v and b are
like a soft English ‘v’ (between a ‘v’ and a ‘b’), Thank you. Gracias. gra·syas
and r is strongly rolled. Also note that the
letters ll (pronounced ly or simplified to y in You’re welcome. De nada. de na·da
most parts of Latin America) and y are pro­
nounced like the ‘s’ in ‘measure’ or the ‘sh’ in Yes./No. Sí./No. see/no
‘shut’ in Argentina, which gives the language
its very own local flavor. In this chapter, we’ve My name is … me sha·mo …
used the symbol sh to represent this sound. Me llamo …
You’ll get used to this very quickly listening to
and taking your cues from the locals. What’s your name? ko·mo se sha·ma
¿Cómo se llama oo·ste (pol)
The stressed syllables are indicated with usted? ko·mo te sha·mas (inf)
an acute accent in written Spanish (eg días) ¿Cómo te llamas?
and with italics in our pronunciation guides.
Do you speak English? a·bla een·gles (pol)
The polite form is used in this chapter; ¿Habla inglés?
where both polite and informal options are ¿Hablas inglés? a·blas een·gles (inf)
given, they are indicated by the abbrevi­
ations ‘pol’ and ‘inf’. Where necessary, both I don’t understand. yo no en·tyen·do
masculine and feminine forms of words are Yo no entiendo.
included, separated by a slash and with the
masculine form first, eg perdido/a (m/f). ACCOMMODATIONS

BASICS Hola. o·la I’d like a … Quisiera una kee·sye·ra oo·na
Adiós./Chau. a·dyos/chow room. habitación … a·bee·ta·syon …
Hello. ¿Qué tal? ke tal single individual een·dee·vee·dwal
Goodbye. Bien, gracias. byen gra·syas double doble do·ble
How are you?
Fine, thanks. How much is it per night/person?
¿Cuánto cuesta por kwan·to kwes·ta por
noche/persona? no·che/per·so·na

Does it include breakfast?
¿Incluye el een·kloo·she el
desayuno? de·sa·shoo·no
WANT MORE?
campsite terreno de te·re·no de
For in-depth language information and cámping kam·peeng
handy phrases, check out Lonely Plan­ hotel o·tel
et’s Latin American Spanish Phrasebook. hotel hostería os·te·ree·a
You’ll find it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, guesthouse albergue al·ber·ge
or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone youth hostel juvenil khoo·ve·neel
phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.

621

air-con aire acondi- ai·re a·kon·dee· LUNFARDO
cionado syo·na·do
Below are some of the spicier lunfardo
bathroom baño ba·nyo (slang) terms you may hear on your
bed travels in Argentina.
cama ka·ma
window boliche – disco or nightclub
ventana ven·ta·na boludo – jerk, asshole, idiot; often used in a
friendly fashion, but a deep insult to a stranger
DIRECTIONS bondi – bus Language DIRECTIONS
buena onda – good vibes
Where’s …? don·de es·ta … carajo – asshole, prick; bloody hell
¿Dónde está …? chabón/chabona – kid, guy/girl (term of
endearment)
What’s the address? che – hey
¿Cuál es la dirección? kwal es la dee·rek·syon diez puntos – OK, cool, fine (literally‘10 points’)
fiaca – laziness
Could you please write it down? guita – money
¿Puede escribirlo, pwe·de es·kree·beer·lo laburo – job
por favor? por fa·vor macanudo – great, fabulous
mango – one peso
Can you show me (on the map)? masa – a great, cool thing
¿Me lo puede indicar me lo pwe·de een·dee·kar mina – woman
(en el mapa)? (en el ma·pa) morfar – eat
pendejo – idiot
at the corner en la esquina en la es·kee·na piba/pibe – cool young guy/girl
en el piola – cool, clever
at the traffic en el se·ma·fo·ro pucho – cigarette
lights semáforo de·tras de … re – very, eg re interestante (very interesting)
en·fren·te de … trucho – fake, imitation, bad quality
behind … detrás de … ees·kyer·da
al la·do de … ¡Ponete las pilas! – Get on with it! (literally
in front of … enfrente de … fren·te a … ‘Put in the batteries!’)
de·re·cha Me mataste. – I don’t know; I have no idea.
left izquierda to·do rek·to (literally ‘You’ve killed me’)
Le faltan un par de jugadores. – He’s not
next to … al lado de … playing with a full deck (literally ‘He’s a couple
of players short’)
opposite … frente a … che boludo – The most porteño phrase on
earth. Ask a friendly local youth to explain.
right derecha

straight ahead todo recto

EATING & DRINKING

Can I see the menu, please?
¿Puedo ver el menú, pwe·do ver el me·noo
por favor? por fa·vor

What would you recommend?
¿Qué me recomienda? ke me re·ko·myen·da

Do you have vegetarian food?
¿Tienen comida tye·nen ko·mee·da
vegetariana? ve·khe·ta·rya·na

I don’t eat (red meat).
No como (carne roja). no ko·mo (kar·ne ro·kha)

That was delicious! Key Words
¡Estaba buenísimo! es·ta·ba bwe·nee·see·mo

Cheers! sa·loo appetisers aperitivos a·pe·ree·tee·vos
¡Salud!
bottle botella bo·te·sha
The bill, please.
La cuenta, por favor. la kwen·ta por fa·vor bowl bol bol

breakfast desayuno de·sa·shoo·no

I’d like a Quisiera una kee·sye·ra oo·na children’s menú me·noo
table for … mesa para … me·sa pa·ra … menu infantil een·fan·teel

(eight) o’clock las (ocho) las (o·cho) (too) cold (muy) frío (mooy) free·o

(two) people (dos) (dos) dinner cena se·na
personas per·so·nas
food comida ko·mee·da

622

fork tenedor te·ne·dor carrot zanahoria sa·na·o·rya

glass vaso va·so celery apio a·pyo

hot (warm) caliente ka·lyen·te cherry cereza se·re·sa

knife cuchillo koo·chee·yo corn choclo cho·klo

lunch almuerzo al·mwer·so cucumber pepino pe·pee·no

L ANGUAGE E AT I N G & D R I N K I N G main course plato pla·to fruit fruta froo·ta
principal preen·see·pal
grape uvas oo·vas
plato pla·to
plate lemon limón lee·mon

restaurant restaurante res·tow·ran·te lentils lentejas len·te·khas

spoon cuchara koo·cha·ra lettuce lechuga le·choo·ga

with/without con/sin kon/seen mushroom champiñón cham·pee·nyon

nuts nueces nwe·ses

Meat & Fish onion cebolla se·bo·sha

beef carne de vaca kar·ne de va·ka orange naranja na·ran·kha

chicken pollo po·sho peach durazno doo·ras·no

duck pato pa·to peas arvejas ar·ve·khas

pescado pes·ka·do (red/green) pimiento pee·myen·to
fish pepper (rojo/verde) (ro·kho/ver·de)

lamb cordero kor·de·ro pineapple ananá a·na·na

pork cerdo ser·do plum ciruela seer·we·la

turkey pavo pa·vo potato papa pa·pa

veal ternera ter·ne·ra pumpkin zapallo sa·pa·sho

spinach espinacas es·pee·na·kas

Fruit & Vegetables strawberry frutilla froo·tee·sha

manzana man·sa·na tomato tomate to·ma·te

apple vegetable verdura ver·doo·ra

apricot damasco da·mas·ko watermelon sandía san·dee·a

artichoke alcaucil al·kow·seel

asparagus espárragos es·pa·ra·gos Other Foods

banana banana ba·na·na

beans chauchas chow·chas bread pan pan
man·te·ka
beetroot remolacha re·mo·la·cha butter manteca ke·so

cabbage repollo re·po·sho cheese queso

EL VOSEO

Spanish in the Río de la Plata region differs from that of Spain and the rest of the Amer­
icas, most notably in the use of the informal form of ‘you’. Instead of tuteo (the use of
tú), Argentines commonly speak with voseo (the use of vos), a relic from 16th-century
Spanish requiring slightly different grammar. All verbs change in spelling, stress and pro­
nunciation. Examples of verbs ending in -ar, -er and -ir are given below – the tú forms are
included to illustrate the contrast. Imperative forms (commands) also differ, but negative
imperatives are identical in tuteo and voseo.

The Spanish phrases in this chapter use the vos form. An Argentine inviting a foreigner
to address him or her informally will say Me podés tutear (literally ‘You can address me
with tú’), even though they’ll use the vos forms in subsequent conversation.

Verb Tuteo Voseo
hablar (speak): You speak./Speak! Tú hablas./¡Habla! Vos hablás./¡Hablá!
comer (eat): You eat./Eat!
venir (come): You come./Come! Tú comes./¡Come! Vos comés./¡Comé!

Tú vienes./¡Ven! Vos venís./¡Vení!

623

egg huevo we·vo Signs Open L ANGUAGE E M E R G E N C I E S
honey miel myel Abierto Closed
jam mermelada mer·me·la·da Cerrado Entrance
oil aceite a·sey·te Entrada Men
pasta pasta pas·ta Hombres/Varones Women
pepper pimienta pee·myen·ta Mujeres/Damas Prohibited
rice arroz a·ros Prohibido Exit
salt sal sal Salida Toilets
sugar azúcar a·soo·kar Servicios/Baños
vinegar vinagre vee·na·gre

Drinks SHOPPING & SERVICES

beer cerveza ser·ve·sa I’d like to buy …
coffee Quisiera comprar … kee·sye·ra kom·prar …
(orange)
juice café ka·fe I’m just looking.
milk Sólo estoy mirando. so·lo es·toy mee·ran·do
tea jugo khoo·go
(mineral) (de naranja) (de na·ran·kha) Can I look at it?
water ¿Puedo verlo? pwe·do ver·lo
(red/white) leche le·che
wine
té te How much is it?
¿Cuánto cuesta? kwan·to kwes·ta
agua a·gwa
(mineral) (mee·ne·ral) That’s too expensive.
Es muy caro. es mooy ka·ro
bvilnaonc(oti)n to/ vee·no (teen·to/
blan·ko) Can you lower the price?
¿Podría bajar un po·dree·a ba·khar oon
EMERGENCIES poco el precio? po·ko el pre·syo

There’s a mistake in the bill.
Hay un error ai oon e·ror
Help! ¡Socorro! so·ko·ro en la cuenta. en la kwen·ta
Go away!
¡Vete! ve·te

Call …! ¡Llame a …! sha·me a … ATM cajero ka·khe·ro
automático ow·to·ma·tee·ko
a doctor un médico oon me·dee·ko credit card tarjeta de tar·khe·ta de
crédito kre·dee·to
the police la policía la po·lee·see·a internet cafe cibercafé see·ber·ka·fe
market mercado mer·ka·do
I’m lost. es·toy per·dee·do/a (m/f) post office correos ko·re·os
Estoy perdido/a. es·toy en·fer·mo/a (m/f) tourist office oficina o·fee·see·na
I’m ill. de turismo de too·rees·mo
Estoy enfermo/a.

I’m allergic to (antibiotics). TIME & DATES
Soy alérgico/a a soy a·ler·khee·ko/a a
(los antibióticos). (los an·tee·byo·tee·kos) (m/f)

Where are the toilets? What time is it? ¿Qué hora es? ke o·ra es
¿Dónde están los don·de es·tan los
baños? ba·nyos It’s (10) o’clock. Son (las diez). son (las dyes)

Question Words It’s half past Es (la una) es (la oo·na)
(one). y media. ee me·dya

How? ¿Cómo? ko·mo morning mañana ma·nya·na
afternoon tarde tar·de
What? ¿Qué? ke evening noche no·che
yesterday ayer a·sher
When? ¿Cuándo? kwan·do today hoy oy
tomorrow mañana ma·nya·na
Where? ¿Dónde? don·de

Who? ¿Quién? kyen

Why? ¿Por qué? por ke

624 lunes loo·nes
Monday
Tuesday martes mar·tes Numbers oo·no
Wednesday 1 uno dos
Thursday miércoles myer·ko·les tres
Friday 2 dos kwa·tro
Saturday jueves khwe·ves seen·ko
Sunday 3 tres seys
viernes vyer·nes sye·te
4 cuatro o·cho
Language TRANSPORTATION sábado sa·ba·do nwe·ve
5 cinco dyes
domingo do·meen·go veyn·te
6 seis treyn·ta
kwa·ren·ta
TRANSPORTATION 7 siete seen·kwen·ta
se·sen·ta
boat barco bar·ko 8 ocho se·ten·ta
ko·lek·tee·vo/ o·chen·ta
bus colectivo/ mee·kro 9 nueve no·ven·ta
micro a·vyon syen
tren 10 diez meel

plane avión 20 veinte

train tren 30 treinta

40 cuarenta

first primero pree·me·ro 50 cincuenta

last último ool·tee·mo 60 sesenta

next próximo prok·see·mo 70 setenta

80 ochenta

A … ticket, Un boleto oon bo·lee·to 90 noventa
please.
de …, por favor. de … por fa·vor 100 cien

1st-class primera pree·me·ra 1000 mil

clase kla·se I’d like to Quisiera kee·sye·ra
hire a … alquilar … al·kee·lar …
2nd-class segunda se·goon·da
clase kla·se 4WD un todo- oon to·do·
terreno te·re·no
one-way ida ee·da

return ida y ee·da ee bicycle una oo·na
vuelta vwel·ta
bicicleta bee·see·kle·ta

I want to go to … kee·sye·ra eer a … car un coche/ oon ko·che/
Quisiera ir a … auto aw·to

Does it stop at …? motorcycle una moto oo·na mo·to
¿Para en …?
pa·ra en … helmet casco kas·ko

What stop is this? hitchhike hacer dedo a·ser de·do
¿Cuál es esta parada? kwal es es·ta pa·ra·da
mecánico me·ka·nee·ko
What time does it arrive/leave? mechanic
¿A qué hora llega/sale? a ke o·ra she·ga/sa·le
petrol/gas nafta naf·ta

Please tell me when we get to … service station estación de es·ta·syon de
¿Puede avisarme pwe·de a·vee·sar·me servicio ser·vee·syo
cuando lleguemos a …? kwan·do she·ge·mos a …

I want to get off here. Is this the road to …?
Quiero bajarme aquí. kye·ro ba·khar·me a·kee ¿Se va a … por se va a … por

aeropuerto a·e·ro·pwer·to esta carretera? es·ta ka·re·te·ra
parada de pa·ra·da de
airport colectivo ko·lek·tee·vo Can I park here?
bus stop pla·ta·for·ma ¿Puedo estacionar acá? pwe·do e·sta·syo·nar a·ka
plataforma ta·kee·sha
platform taquilla o·ra·ryo The car has broken down.
ticket office horario es·ta·syon de El coche se ha averiado. el ko·che se a a·ve·rya·do
timetable tre·nes
train station estación de I’ve run out of petrol.
trenes Me he quedado sin nafta. me e ke·da·do seen naf·ta

I have a flat tyre.
Tengo una goma ten·go oo·na ·go·ma
pinchada. peen·cha·da

625

GLOSSARY

aerosilla – chairlift costanera – seaside, riverside or peatonal – pedestrian mall, Language GLOSSARY
alcalde – mayor lakeside road or walkway usually in the downtown area of
alerce – large coniferous tree, criollo – a term used for any Latin major Argentine cities
resembling a California redwood, American of European descent peña – club that hosts informal
from which Argentina’s Parque cruce – crossroads folk-music gatherings
Nacional Los Alerces takes its piropo – a flirtatious remark
name dique – a dam; the resultant piso – floor
arbolito – literally ‘little tree’; a reservoir is often used for recre- primera – 1st class on a train
street moneychanger and to be ational purposes; can also refer propina – a tip, for example, in a
avoided to a drydock restaurant or theater
arroyo – creek, stream pulpería – a country store or
autopista – freeway or motorway edificio – a building tavern
ejecutivo – executive class on
baliza – emergency reflector a train quebrada – a canyon
balneario – any swimming or esquina – street corner
bathing area, including beach estacion de servicio – gas rambla – boardwalk
resorts station rancho – a rural house,
bandoneón – an accordion-like estancia – extensive ranch for generally of adobe, with a
instrument used in tango music cattle or sheep; some are now thatched roof
barrio – neighborhood or open to tourists recargo – additional charge, usu-
borough of the city este – east ally 10%, that many Argentine
businesses add to credit-c­ ard
cabildo – colonial town council; feria – a street fair or street transactions
also, the building that housed market refugio – a usually rustic
the council fútbol – soccer shelter in a national park or
cajero automático – ATM remote area
cambio – money-exchange horario – schedule remise – taxi
office; also casa de cambio ripio – gravel
campo – the countryside; alter- locutorio – private long-distance rotisería – takeout shop
nately, a field or paddock telephone office, often with fax rotonda – traffic circle,
cartelera – an office selling and internet roundabout
discount tickets RN – Ruta Nacional; a national
casa de cambio – money-­ manzana – literally ‘apple’; also highway
exchange office, often shortened used to define one square block RP – Ruta Provincial; a provincial
to cambio of a city highway
casa de familia – family mercado artesanal – handicraft
accommodations market s/n – sin número, indicating a
casa de gobierno – a govern- mestizo – a person of mixed street address without a number
ment building Indian and Spanish descent semi-cama – semisleeper class
castellano – the term used for mirador – scenic viewpoint, on a train or long-distance bus
the Spanish language spoken usually on a hill but often in a sendero – a trail in the woods
throughout Latin America building sur – south
catarata – waterfall municipalidad – city hall
cerro – hill, mountain tarjeta magnética – magnetic
certificado – certified mail nafta – gasoline or petrol bus card, such as a SUBE card
chacra – small, independent farm neumático – spare tire tarjeta telefónica – telephone
coche cama – sleeper class on norte – north card
a train turista – 2nd class on a train,
coima – a bribe; one who solicits oeste – west usually not very comfortable
a bribe is a coimero
colectivo – local bus parada – a bus stop zona franca – duty-free zone
combi – long-distance bus paseo – an outing, such as a zonda – a hot, dry wind
común – common class on a train walk in the park or downtown descending from the Andes
correo – post office

626

FOOD GLOSSARY

Language FOOD GLOSSARY a punto – cooked medium well dulce de leche – Argentina’s milanesa – breaded cutlet
(referring to steak) national sweet, found in many (usually beef)
agua de la canilla – tap water desserts; a type of thick, milky minuta – in a restaurant or
agua mineral – mineral water, caramel confitería, a short order such as
usually available con/sin gas spaghetti or milanesa
(sparkling/still) empanada – meat or vegetable mollejas – sweetbreads
ajo – garlic hand pie; popular Argentine morcilla – blood sausage
alfajor – two flat, soft cookies snack
filled with dulce de leche and entrada – appetizer ñoquis – gnocchi
covered in chocolate or meringue entraña – skirt steak
almuerzo – lunch ojo de bife – rib-eye steak
amargo – bitter facturas – pastries; also receipts
asado – Argentine barbecue frito/a – fried pancho – hot dog
(both the food and the event), fruta – fruit papas frita – french fries
often a family event on Sunday frutos secos – nuts (nuts are parrillada – a mixed grill of
also called nueces) steak and other beef cuts
bien cocido – well done (refer- parrilla – a restaurant special-
ring to steak) helado – ice cream izing in steak dishes
heladería – an ice-cream shop pescado – fish
bife (de chorizo/costilla/ hielo – ice picada – a cheese and cured
lomo) – (sirloin strip/T-bone/ hígado – liver meat sample plate
tenderloin) steak hongo – mushroom (also called pollo – chicken
bombilla – metal straw with champignon) postre – dessert
filter for drinking mate huevos – eggs propina – tip (gratuity)
bondiola – cured pork shoulder puchero – soup combining
budín de pan – bread pudding jamón – ham vegetables and meats, often served
jarra – pitcher with rice
café – coffee jengibre – ginger
casero – homemade jugo (exprimido) – juice (freshly recargo – an additional charge
carne – meat (usually beef) squeezed) (such as for use of a credit card,
cerdo – pork jugoso – medium rare (referring usually about 10%)
cena – dinner to steak); also general term for rotisería – takeout shop
cerveza – beer juicy
chimichurri – a spicy marinade sandwiches de miga – thin
for meat, usually made of pars- lengua – tongue sandwiches made from crustless
ley, garlic, spices and olive oil lenguado – flounder (fish) white bread
chinchulines – intestines licuado – fruit shake sorrentino – a stuffed pasta, like
choclo – corn locro – a traditional meat and ravioli but large and round
chopp – draft beer corn stew from northern Argentina submarino – hot milk served
choripán – a spicy sausage lomito – a steak sandwich with a bar of dark chocolate
served in a bread roll lomo – tenderloin
chorizo – sausage (note the dif- tallarines – noodles
ference from bife de chorizo) manteca – butter tenedor libre – literally ‘free fork’;
comedor – basic cafeteria mariscos – seafood an all-you-can-eat restaurant
confitería – a shop that serves matambre – a thin cut of beef, tira de asada – grilled beef ribs
quick meals sometimes made into a stuffed
cortado – espresso with roll (matambre relleno) vacio – flank steak
steamed milk added mate – a gourd used for drinking verduras – vegetables
costillas – short ribs yerba mate or the tea itself vegetariano/a – (m/f) vegetarian
crudo – raw medialuna (de manteca/de vinoteca – wine bar
cubierto – in restaurants, the grasa) – croissant (sweet/savory) vino (blanco/tinto) – (red/
cover charge you pay for utensil merienda – afternoon tea white) wine
use and bread merluza – hake (fish)
mermelada – jam or jelly yerba mate – ‘Paraguayan tea’
desayuno – breakfast miel – honey (Ilex paraguariensis), which
dulce – sweet Argentines and Uruguayans
consume in very large amounts

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 627

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Gregor Clark

Many thanks to the travellers who used Muchísimas gracias to the many Uruguayans
the last edition and wrote to us with help- and resident expatriates who shared their love
ful hints, useful advice and interesting of country and local knowledge with me, espe­
anecdotes: Badong Abesamis, Nicole Binkert, cially Gloria, Tino, Miguel, Monica, Karen, Pas­
Segimon Castañer, Andrew Chang, Sebastian ca, Alain, Youri, Cecilia, Juan Manuel, Susana,
Dawid, Ian Dicks, Annemieke Drenth, Jessica Bilingue, Lucia and Rodney. Back home, abra-
Edmonds, Jonathan Freeman, Marta Garicano, zos to Gaen, Meigan and Chloe, who always
Juliette Giannesini, Tim Laslavic, Guadalupe make coming home the best part of the trip.

,GuadlpeLzroni,F Bridget Gleeson

Lazzaroni, Felipe Leder, Carolina Lozano, Oleg Thank you to my friends in Buenos Aires for
Margulis, Caroline Monja, Malena Motta, Den­ making personal connections for me in La
nis Oman, Toine van Riel, Christoph Ris, Annett Pampa and in the province of Buenos Aires.
Schlenker, Linda Thomson, Daniëlle Wolbers, Thanks to Sebastián, my personal guide in
Jeroen Zomerdijk Santa Rosa, and to my sister Elizabeth for en­
during the crowded train ride to La Plata with
AUTHOR THANKS me, and to Rodolfo, for introducing me to so
many of these places — San Antonio de Areco,
Sandra Bao the beaches, Tandil, Luján— in the first place.

This was the first time I’ve returned to Buenos Carolyn McCarthy
Aires without seeing my godmother, Elsa Malla­
rini, who had passed earlier in the year. I’ll miss I’m grateful to the many locals whose expertise
her welcoming arms and smiles. enriches this book. Heartfelt thanks to Ben
and Wendy for their fine company and driving.
My co-authors were stellar and patient Thanks to Cecilia, RAMIRO and Marcelo, gra­
with all my demands, as usual. Also many cious hosts Pato and Ivor, the crew at Cabo
thanks to Graciela and Silvia Guzmán, Lucas Raso, amigo Gaston, Tinio and Silvina for re­
Markowiecki, Lisa Power, Sylvia Zapiola, Madi turning my hat and more, Jaime for his original
Lang, Jed Rothenburg and Ivan Carrasco. guiding, Anita for her help and Sandra for her
Cariños to my parents Fung and David Bao, leadership. Finally, no penguins were harmed in
and brother Daniel. Finally, lots of love to my the making of this book.
husband, Ben Greensfelder.

BEHIND THE SCENES628 Lucas Vidgen

Andy Symington Thanks once again to the Argentines for mak­
ing a country where it’s such a joy to travel
I owe thanks to many people for information and work. On the road, to Guillermo Santos
and conversation along the way. Particular for driving way out of his way just to make
thanks for various things go to Ernesto sure I got there and “Peluca” Dominguez for
Aguirre, Fernanda Rubio, Lisandro Trini, the serious schooling on San Marcos history.
Carolina Morgado, the late Douglas Tomp­ To América for an amazing year on top of an
kins, Ignacio Jiménez Pérez, China Sánchez, amazing decade and to Sofía and Teresa for
Laura Hoogen, Ezequiel Bermejo, Juan being there, and being there when I got back.
Antonio Lauro, Verónica Iwasita, F.Ocampo,
Ceferino the truckie and more. In León Edu­ ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
ardo Cuadrado Diago, José Eliseo Vázquez
González, Conchi Martínez Velasco, Mark Climate map data adapted from Peel MC,
Hayward and Manuel Sánchez Villalba keep Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat­
things ticking for me. Thanks also to my ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate
family for their support, to MaSovaida Mor­ Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System
gan, Sandra Bao and my co-authors and the Sciences, 11, pp1633–44.
rest of the LP team. Cover photograph: Cerro Torre, Galyna
Andrushko/Shuttershock ©

THIS BOOK Destination Editor Assisting Editors Bruce
MaSovaida Morgan Evans, Carly Hall, Victoria Har­
This 10th edition of Lonely Product Editors Kate rison, Gabrielle Innes, Bella Li,
Planet’s Argentina guidebook Chapman, Saralinda Turner Anne Mulvaney, Susan Pater­
was researched and written Senior Cartographer Mark son, Monique Perrin, Fionnuala
by Sandra Bao, Gregor Clark, Griffiths Twomey
Bridget Gleeson, Carolyn Mc­ Book Designer Virginia Cartographers Michael
Carthy, Andy Symington and Moreno Garrett, Anthony Phelan
Lucas Vidgen. Sandra, Gregor, Senior Editors Andi Jones, Cover Researcher Naomi
Carolyn, Andy and Lucas also Karyn Noble Parker
wrote and researched the pre­ Thanks to Carolyn Boicos,
vious edition. This guidebook Coordinating Editor Anita Banh, Victoria Smith,
was produced by the following: Nigel Chin Luna Soo

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 629

Index

A area codes 21, 611 Museo Municipal de bargaining 608
Área Natural Protegida Arte Juan Carlos
Abra Pampa 260 Castagnino 141 Bariloche 16, 49, 358-68,
accommodations 602-3, see Punta Tombo 420 357, 360, 37
Argentine Chaco 595 Museo Municipal de Arte
also estancias, individual Arroyo Los Loros 185 Moderno 320 Barreal 351-2
locations art galleries
for children 46 Museo Municipal de Barrio Norte 79-82, 90-1,
internet resources 77 Casapueblo Bellas Artes 154 95-6, 70
language 620-1 (Uruguay) 556
activities 25, 34-8, see also Museo Municipal de Basílica Nuestra Señora de
individual activities Colección de Arte Amalia Bellas Artes Dr Genaro Luján 121
addresses 606 Lacroze de Fortabat 61 Pére 289
Aguas Arriba 464 bathrooms 611
Aigo 389 Culturarte 247 Museo Nacional de Arte
air travel 614-15 Espacio de Arte Decorativo 72-3 beaches 23
airlines 616
airports 614-15 Contemporáneo Museo Nacional de Artes Atlantic Coast 136
Alta Gracia 304-5 (Uruguay) 522 Visuales (Uruguay) 523
Aluminé 389-90 Museo de Arte Cabo Polonio (Uruguay)
Amaicha del Valle 269 Contemporáneo (Bahía Museo Nacional de Bellas 554, 554
amusement parks 73, 154, 511 Blanca) 148 Artes (Buenos Aires) 71
Andean Northwest 48, Museo de Arte Corrientes 173
218-84, 220-1 Contemporáneo Museo Nacional de Bellas
accommodations 218 Buenos Aires 64 Artes (Neuquén) 397 Faro José Ignacio
climate 218 Museo de Arte (Uruguay) 560
highlights 220-1, 220-1 Contemporáneo de Museo Provincial de
national parks 218 Rosario 154 Bellas Artes Emilio La Paloma (Uruguay)
travel seasons 218 Museo de Arte Eduardo Caraffa 291 554, 561
Andes 595, see also Andean Minnicelli 431
Northwest, Central Andes Museo de Arte Español Museo Superior de Bellas La Pedrera (Uruguay)
Angastaco 237-8 Enrique Larreta 73 Artes Evita 291 562, 554, 554
animals 597-8, see also Museo de Arte
individual species Latinoamericano de MusEUM 205 Mar del Plata 19, 141-2, 19
Antarctica 497 Buenos Aires 72 Pajcha - Museo de Arte Miramar 146
Antofagasta de la Sierra 275 Museo de Arte Moderno
architecture 25, 57, 118-19, de Buenos Aires 64 Étnico Americano Pinamar 135
198-9, 523 Museo de Arte 219, 222
archaeological museums Precolombino e Paseo del Buen Pastor 291 Piriápolis (Uruguay) 552,
Angastaco 238 Indígena arts, see cinema, dance, 554, 555
Cachi 234 (Uruguay) 521 literature, music
Cafayate 239-40 Museo de Arte Tigre 113 Atlantic Coast 48, 135-49, Playa Unión 418
Catamarca 273-4 Museo de Artes 595-6, 116
Salta 219, 243, 243 Decorativas accommodations 115 Punta del Diablo
Santa María 269 (Uruguay) 521-2 beaches 136 (Uruguay) 554, 565-7
Tilcara 253 Museo de Artes climate 115
Visuales 415 food 115 Punta del Este (Uruguay)
Map Pages 000 Museo de Bellas Artes highlights 116, 116 553, 554, 555
Photo Pages 000 de La Boca Benito travel seasons 115
Quinquela Martín 68 ATMs 606-7 San Clemente del
Museo de Bellas Artes Uruguay 572 Tuyú 135
y Artes Decorativas
(Uruguay) 548 B San Martín de los
Museo Las Lilas de Andes 380
Areco 123 Bahía Blanca 147-9
Bahía Bustamante 425 Uruguay 554-5, 554-5
Bajo Caracoles 447 Villa Gesell 137
Balde 314-15
Balneario El Cóndor 409 beef 39, 41, 91, 120, 546
Bañado la Estrella 210
bandoneóns 100, 103 beer 44, 164-5, 308, 371

Belén 275-6

Belgrano 73-4

bica 247

bicycling 25, 36, 38, 616

Bariloche 359

Buenos Aires 74

Esquel 435

Mar del Plata 142

Montevideo
(Uruguay) 523

I N D E X B – C630 Barrio Norte 79-82, Cañadón de los chamamé 175
bicycling continued 95-6, 70 Espejos 553 Chicoana 233
Parque Miguel Lillo 146 children, travel with 45-6, 72
Parque Nacional Nahuel Belgrano 73-4 Cañón Arco Iris 283 Chile 471-90, 513-16
Huapi 370 children, travel with 72 Cañón del Atuel 343
Patagonia 445 climate 52 Cañón de Talampaya 283 border crossings 252, 454
Pinamar 135 Congreso 62-3, 77-8, Capilla del Monte 303, 311 Chilecito 281-3
rental 616 capybaras 598, 18 chocolate 27, 361
Reserva Faunística 88-9, 94, 107, 58-9 car travel 574, 609, 617-19 Cholila 442
Península Valdés 411-12 courses 75 Cariló 136 Chos Malal 394, 395
Río Mayo 443 drinking 22, 93-9 Carmelo (Uruguay) 543-5 churches & cathedrals
Salta 223 entertainment 99-106 Carnaval 26, 163, 176, 251,
San Rafael 341 festivals & events 75-6 Basílica de Nuestra
bird-watching food 12, 22, 52, 86-93, 12 533, 534, 533 Señora del Pilar 69-71
Área Natural Protegida free attractions 63 Carolina 315-16
Punta Tombo 420 gay travelers 98 carrovelismo 35, 352, 353 Basílica Nuestra Señora
Cabo Dos Bahías 424 highlights 54-5, 54-5 Casa Curutchet 118-19 de Luján 121
Cabo Raso 421 history 53, 579-80 Cassidy, Butch 442
El Pedral 22, 409 information 109-11 Catamarca 272-5, 277-8 Capilla La Banda 267
Gran Chaco 209 itineraries 57 Catedral de la Plata 118, 31 Catedral Basílica de
Parque Interjurisdiccional La Boca 64-8, 90, 65, 80 cave paintings, see rock art
Marino Isla lesbian travelers 98 caves 132, 293, 316, 345, Nuestra Señora del
Pingüino 428 Microcentro 53-60, 76-7, Valle 274
Parque Nacional 446-7, 477, 481 Catedral de la Plata
Calilegua 250 87, 93-4, 107, 58-9 Caviahue 392 118, 31
Parque Nacional El Palermo 71-3, 82-6, 91-3, Cayastá 168 Catedral de los Santos
Palmar 186 cell phones 610 Pedro y Cecilia 141
Parque Nacional Laguna 96-107, 108-9, 84-5 Cementerio de la Recoleta Catedral Metropolitana
Blanca 396 Puerto Madero 60-2, (Buenos Aires) 56
Reserva Provincial 13, 69, 13 Convento de Santo
Esteros del Iberá 177 88, 81 Central Andes 49, Domingo 278
Salta 223 Recoleta 79-82, 95-6, Convento y Museo de
Uruguay 564 318-355, 319 san Francisco 164
boat travel 617, see also 108, 70 highlights 319, 319 Iglesia Catedral 287,
cruises Retiro 68-9, 79, 95, travel to/from 320 297, 297
Bolivia 250, 260 Central Sierras 49, 285-7, Iglesia, Convento y
books 576, 589 108, 70 299-311, 300 Basílica de San
history 580, 581 safe travel 68, 110 accommodations 285 Francisco 320
border crossings 615-16 San Telmo 63-4, 78-9, climate 285 Iglesia de San Francisco
Bolivia 250, 260 food 285 de Asís 261
Brazil 214 89-90, 94, 107-8, 58-9 highlights 286 Iglesia Matriz
Chile 252, 454 shopping 106-13 travel seasons 285 (Uruguay) 540
Bosque Petrificado sights 53-74 Cerro Aconcagua 18, 321, Iglesia San Francisco
Sarmiento 447 tours 75 340-1, 19 219, 15
Brazil 211-17 travel seasons 52 Cerro Castor 505, 505 Iglesia San José 234
border crossing 214 travel to/from 111 Cerro Catedral 370 Iglesia San Pedro
time 215 travel within 112-13 Cerro Chapelco 384, 37 Nolasco 236
budgeting 21, 607 vegetarian & vegan Cerro de los Cóndores 448 cinema 593
accommodations 603 Cerro de los Siete festivals 76, 136, 142, 593
food costs 605 travelers 88 Colores 251 Circuito Chico 368-70
free attractions 63 bus travel 617, 619 Ciudad Perdida 283
Uruguay 571, 572 business hours 21, 608 Cerro El Calvario 350 climate 20, 26-8
Buenos Aires 47, 52-114, climbing 25, 35, 321-2,
54-5, 58-9, 65, C Cerro El Pelao 267 457, see also
84-5, 7, 80-1 mountaineering
accommodations Cabeza de León 430 Cerro León 448 Barreal 352
52, 76-86 Cabeza del Indio 375 Cerro Aconcagua 340-1
activities 74-5 Cabo Dos Bahías 424 Cerro López 368 Los Gigantes 293
Cabo Polonio Mar del Plata 142
Map Pages 000 Cerro Martial 496 Patagonia 458
Photo Pages 000 (Uruguay) 563-5 Clorinda 210
Cabo Raso 421 Cerro Moncol 345 Coastal Patagonia 401-34
Cacheuta 336-7 Cerro Otto 370 coatis 196, 212
Cachi 22, 234-6 coca 247
Cafayate 238-45, 239 Cerro Pan de Azúcar 299 Colomé Bodega 237
Caleta Valdés 414 Colón 183-5
Calingasta 350-1 Cerro Pan de Azúcar
Calingasta Valley 350-3 (Uruguay) 553
Camarones 420-1
Campos, Florencio Cerro Perito Moreno 375

Molina 123 Cerro Piltriquitrón 375

Cerro San Lorenzo 447

Cerros Colorados 355
Chaco, the 209

631

Colonia del Sacramento Puerto Madryn 404 El Tren del Fin de Mundo fishing 35-6, 457-8 INDEX C–G
(Uruguay) 533, 537-43, Punta del Este 505, 504
538, 532 Atlantic Coast 135,
(Uruguay) 556 El Volcán 313 137, 142
Colonia Suiza 368 Reserva Provincial electricity 604
Comodoro Rivadavia 424-6 embassies 604-5 Central Andes 350
Concepción del Esteros del Iberá 179 emergencies 610, 623
Santa Fe 165 empanadas 42, 46, 40 festivals 142, 388, 421
Uruguay 182-3 Ushuaia 496, 499 environment 571, 594-600
Concordia 186-7 Cuesta de Huaco 353 Esquel 434-9 guides & services 36
condors 293 Cueva de las Manos 446-7 Estancia El Cóndor 459
Congreso 62-3, 77-8, 88-9, Cueva del Milodón Estancia Harberton 499, Lake District 359, 375,
(Chile) 481 388, 389
94, 107, 58-9 currency 21, 109, 608 502, 503-4
consulates 604-5 customs regulations 604 Estancia Santa Catalina 305 Northeast Argentina 204
Convento y Museo de San Cuyo 333 estancias 130-1, 130-1
cycling, see bicycling Patagonia 421, 427, 431,
Francisco 164 Andean Northwest 267-8 435, 445-7, 448
Copahue 392-4 D Central Sierras 304, 305,
Cordillera de Ansilta 352 regulations 36
Córdoba 16, 49, 285, dance 100-3, 175, 590, see 309, 315, 316
also tango Pampas, the 117, 127, 133 Tierra del Fuego 512-13
287-99, 288-9, 16 Patagonia 409, 413, 425,
accommodations 285, dance festivals 28 Uruguay 552
dangers, see safe travel 443, 446, 452, 459
292-3 deer 135, 232, 163 Tierra del Fuego 502, Fitz Roy Range 13, 35, 414,
climate 285 Delta, the 113-14 455, 13
courses 292 dengue fever 605 512, 505, 504-5
drinking 295 Dientes de Navarino Uruguay 542, 544, 564 folklórica 231
entertainment 295-8 etiquette 589
festivals & events 292 (Chile) 514 events 26-8 food 12, 23-4, 39-44, 12, 24
food 285, 293-5 Difunta Correa 347 Evita, see Perón, Eva beef 39, 41, 91, 120, 546
information 298 dinosaurs 397, 415, 540, 545 exchange rates 21
nightlife 295 Dique Cuesta del Viento 353 chocolate 27, 361
shopping 298 Dique Ullum 350 F
sights 287-91 Dirty War, the 154, 583-5 costs 605
sleeping 292-3 disabilities, travelers with Falkland Islands/Islas
tours 292 Malvinas 431, 490-1, 491 desserts 42, 43
travel seasons 285 573, 611-12 empanadas 42, 46, 40
travel to/from 298-9 diving 404, 412 Falklands War 583-4 festivals 27
travel within 299 dog sledding 36 Faro José Ignacio
Corrientes 171-5, 172 Dolavon 420 for children 46
Cosquín 299, 301 dolphins 415, 418, 420, (Uruguay) 560
Costanera (Posadas) 188 Festival Nacional del internet resources 91
Costanera (Rosario) 151 422, 422
costs 21, 607 drinking water 44 Chocolate 27 language 621-3, 626
courses 604 drinks 42, 44, 43, see also Festival Nacional del parrilla 12, 41, 44, 12, 40
language 75, 154, 222, Uruguay 570
beer, mate Folklore 299
324, 361, 523 language 621-3 Festival y Mundial de Tango vegetarian & vegan
tango 523 driving, see car travel, 44, 88
credit cards 607 scenic drives 28, 76
Cristo Redentor 340 festivals & events 26-8, see football, see fútbol
Cruce de Lagos 366 E
cruises also sporting events Formosa 210
Colón 183 Eastern Uruguay 552-68 beer 308, 371
Esquel 435 EcoCentro 401 Carnaval 26, 163, 176, Fortaleza de Santa Teresa
Lake District 366 ecology 178 (Uruguay) 568
Mar del Plata 142 economy 109, 576-7 251, 533, 534, 533
Mercedes (Uruguay) 545 El Bolsón 371-4, 373 El Tinkunaco 278 Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil)
Parque Nacional do El Bosque 375-6 Festival Nacional del 215-17, 216
El Calafate 458-66,
Iguaçu (Brazil) 214 Folklore 299 free attractions 63
Parque Nacional Los 460-1, 467 film 76, 136, 142, 593 fútbol 66-7, 589, 66-7
El Caminito 65, 68, 7 food 27
Glaciares (North) 457 El Cerrito 466 gaucho 122, 123, 304, Buenos Aires 74
Parque Nacional Los El Chaltén 449-55, 450, 24
El Mollar 267, 269 395, 550 museums 68, 522
Glaciares (South) 458, El Shincal 22, 276-7 music 28, 76, 361, 371,
467, 470 El Tinkunaco 278 Rosario 160
Puerto Iguazú 199 395, 523
Uruguay 569 Santa Fe 167
wine 76, 325
Fiesta Nacional de la Uruguay 534
Vendimia 26-7
Fiesta Nacional del G
Lúpulo 26, 42
films 576, 579, 585, 593 Gaiman 418-20
Gardel, Carlos 531, 551, 590
gardens, see parks &

gardens
gaucho culture 16, 126,

186, 16
festivals 122, 123, 304,

395, 550
museums 263, 522, 550
gay travelers 605
Buenos Aires 98
Uruguay 571
geography 594-6
Gil, Antonio 176

632

INDEX G–L Glaciar Perito Moreno 10, Parque Nacional Perito Museo Histórico insurance 606
466-7, 10, 600 Moreno 448 Provincial Marqués de internet access 606
Sobremonte 287, 289 internet cafes 610
glacier trekking, 469, 468-9 Parque Nacional Torres internet resources 21, 77, 91
glaciers 458, 470 del Paine 483 Museo Histórico Inti Huasi 316
Regional Gales 418 Iruya 259-60, 256
Copahue 393 Parque Nacional Torres Isla de Lobos (Uruguay) 553
del Paine (Chile) 485, Museo Histórico Isla de los Pájaros 413
Glaciar Grey (Chile) 477 486-7 (Uruguay) 547 Isla Gorriti (Uruguay) 556
Isla Monte León 430
Glaciar Martial 496 Parque Provincial hitchhiking 619 Islas Malvinas/Falkland
Aconcagua 340 holidays 608-9
Glaciar Perito Moreno 10, horseback riding, see also Islands 431, 490-1, 491
466-7, 10, 600 Parque Provincial itineraries 29-33, 57,
Ernesto Tornquist 132 estancias
Glaciar Upsala 467-70 Bariloche 359 382-3, 522
Patagonia 435 Buenos Aires 74
Ventisquero Negro 370 Puerto Williams Esquel 435 J
Malargüe 344
Gobernador Costa 443 (Chile) 514 Parque Miguel Lillo 146 Jesuit missions 184, 192,
Quebrada de Parque Nacional Torres 193, 195
Gobernador
Gregores 448-9 Humahuaca 253, 259 del Paine (Chile) 486 Jesús María 304
Reserva Provincial Patagonia 458, 469, 468 Jewish immigration 186
Gran Chaco 205-11 Puerto Natales (Chile) Juan José Castelli 211
Esteros del Iberá 179 Jujuy 247-9, 248
Guerra Sucia (Dirty War) Río Colorado 240 477, 478 Jujuy province 219-61, 224-5
583-5 Río Mayo 444 Reserva Faunística Junín de los Andes 388-9
Salta 223
Guevara, Ernesto ‘Che’ 146, San Ignacio 193 Península Valdés 411 K
151, 304-5, 306-7, 306 Sierra de la Ventana 129 Reserva Provincial
Tafí del Valle 267 kayaking & canoeing 25,
Gusinde, Martín 514 Tierra del Fuego 510 Esteros del Iberá 179 38, 37
Ushuaia 496 Salta 223 Bariloche 359, 361
H Valles Calchaquíes 234 Sierra de la Ventana 129 Cabo Raso 421
Villa la Angostura 376 Uruguay 563, 564 Cañón del Atuel 343
health 572, 605 Volcán Batea Villa la Angostura 376 Delta, the 114
hiking 23, 34 Hotel Eden 311 Dique Ullum 350
Mahuida 390 hot springs & thermal baths Parque Nacional Torres
Bariloche 358-9 history 578-87 Chos Malal 395 del Paine (Chile) 486
Barreal 352 Copahue 392 Patagonia 445, 458
Cachi 22, 234 books 580, 581 Gran Chaco 210 Puerto Madryn 404
Caviahue 392 Buenos Aires 53, 579-80 Laguna Termal 393 Reserva Faunística
Cerro Piltriquitrón 375 Falklands War 583-4 Parque Nacional Península Valdés 411
Esquel 435 Guerra Sucia (Dirty War) Rosario 154
festivals 449 Lanín 385 San Ignacio 194
Fitz Roy Range 13, 455, 13 154, 583-5 Pismanta 354 Tandil 127
Gran Chaco 209 independence 580 Río Uruguay 187
La Cumbrecita 309 indigenous peoples 578 Salto 549 Kirchner, Christina 587
Laguna Termal 393 La Crisis 585-6 Western Catamarca 277 Kirchner, Néstor 57, 586-7
Parque Nacional do Spanish settlement Huaco 353 kiteboarding 38, 136, 353
Huella Andina 435
Iguaçu (Brazil) 214 578-9 Humahuaca 258-9, 256 L
Parque Nacional El Uruguay 568-9
history museums I La Boca 64-8, 90, 65, 80
Palmar 185-6 Museo Histórico La Candelaria 131, 130-1
Parque Nacional Iberá 178 La Casa de la Piedra
(Chile) 477 ice climbing, 469, 469
Lanín 385-7 Museo Histórico de ice trekking 457, 467, 486-7 Pintada 316
Parque Nacional Lihué Iglesia Catedral 287, 297, 297 La Cumbre 301-2
Corrientes 173 Iglesia de San Francisco de La Cumbrecita 309
Calel 134 Museo Histórico de Entre La Lobería 409-10
Parque Nacional Los Asís 261 La Mano en la Arena 556
Ríos 168 Iguazú Falls 10, 22, 48, La Olla 430
Alerces 441 Museo Histórico del La Paloma (Uruguay)
Parque Nacional Los 196-217, 595, 152-3,
Norte 219 197, 11, 212-13, 594 554, 561-2
Arrayanes 375-6 Museo Histórico General safe travel 196 La Pedrera 554, 562-3, 554
Parque Nacional Los immigration 614
San Martín 320 indigenous peoples 208
Glaciares (North) 455-7 Museo Histórico Kami 511 history 578
Parque Nacional Los Museo Histórico inflation 109
Inland Patagonia 434-71
Glaciares (South) 470 Nacional 64
Parque Nacional Monte Museo Histórico

León 430 Provincial
Parque Nacional Nahuel (Rosario) 154
Museo Histórico
Huapi 370 Provincial
Parque Nacional Pali (Santa Fe) 164

Aike (Chile) 477

Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000

633

La Plata 117-21, 118 Little Prince, The 414 travel to/from 320, 335 Museo Paleontológico IN D E X L– M
La Polvorilla 246 llamas 597, 597 travel within 335-6 Egidio Feruglio 415
La Quiaca 260-1 Llao Llao 368, 16 Mendoza, Pedro de 579
La Rioja 278-81, 279 Llullaillaco 222 Menem, Carlos Saúl 585 museums, see also art
La Ruta de los Siete Lagos Lomo del Pliegue Mercedes 176-7 galleries, archaeological
Mercedes (Uruguay) 545-7 museums, history
382-3, 382 Tumbado 457 Merlo 311-12 museums, maritime
La Trochita 434 Londres 276-7 Mesopotamia 595 museums
Lacroix, Tristán 134 Loreto 194-5 Microcentro 53-60, 76-7, Archivo Regional
Lago Belgrano 448 Los Antiguos 445-6 87, 93-4, 107, 58-9 (Uruguay) 540
Lago Buenos Aires 445 Los Gigantes 293 Mina Clavero 310-11 Cabildo 56
Lago Burmeister 448 Los Molles 345 Mirador Laguna Torre 455 Capilla La Banda 267
Lago Cardiel 448 Los Penitentes 338-9 Miramar 146 Casa de la
Lago Caviahue 392, 393 Los Rápidos 370 Misiones 188-96 Independencia 262
Lago del Fuerte 127 Los Seismiles 277 mobile phones 610 Casa del Marqués
Lago Deseado 515 Luján 121-2 Molinos 236-7 Campero 261
Lago Fagnano 511 Luján de Cuyo 330, 329 monasteries 164 Casa Nacarello
Lago Falkner 383, 382-3 money 21, 606-8 (Uruguay) 540
Lago General Vintter 443 M discount cards 604 Casa Natal de
Lago Huechulafquen Uruguay 572 Sarmiento 347
Magellan 429, 436, 472-3 Monte Tronador 370-1 Casa Rivera
385, 386 Magellanic penguins, Montevideo (Uruguay) (Uruguay) 521
Laguna Amarga (Chile) 483 520-37, 533, 520-1, Centro Cultural del
Laguna Ana (Chile) 477 see penguins 524-5, 533 Bicentenario 270
Laguna de Castillos Maimará 255 accommodations 523, Centro de Interpretacíon
Maipú 334 Historico 459
(Uruguay) 564 Malargüe 343-5 526-8 Centro Paleontológico
Laguna de los Tres 456 Manzana Jesuítica 290, 579 activities 523 Lago Barreales 397
Laguna del Chancho 392 maps 606 courses 523 Complejo Museográfico
Laguna Frias 365, 364 Mapuche people 391 drinking 530-1 Enrique Udaondo 121
Laguna Los Horcones 339 Mar Azul 136 entertainment 531-4 Convento y Museo de
Laguna Negra 510 Mar Chiquita 143 festivals & events 523 San Francisco 164
Laguna Termal 393 Mar de las Pampas 136 food 528 Cripta Jesuítica 289
Laguna Toro 457 Mar del Plata 19, 138-46, highlights 529 EcoCentro 401
Laguna Torre 455 information 535-6 Espacio Memoria y
Lake District 49, 356-99, 140, 19 itineraries 529 Derechos Humanos
Mar del Sud 146 shopping 534-5 22, 74
596, 357 maritime museums 61, 62, sights 520-3 Fundación Artesanías
accommodations 356 travel to/from 536-7 Misioneras 188
climate 356 113-14, 427, 473, 496, 523 travel within 537 Fundación Proa 68
food 356 markets Monumento Nacional a La Glaciarium 458
highlights 357, 357 Bandera 151, 163, 162 Molino de San
national parks 358 Andean Northwest 248, Monumento Natural Francisco 281
travel seasons 356 275, 280 Bosques Petrificados Museo Acatushún 502
travel to/from 358 428-9 Museo Argentino de
Las Cañitas 72 Atlantic Coast 137, 145 Monumento Natural Los Ciencias Naturales 74
Las Cuevas 340 Buenos Aires 64, 108, 113 Pingüinos (Chile) 477 Museo Carlos Gardel 551
Las Leñas 15, 345-6, 15 Lake District 371 monuments & statues Museo Casa Carlos
Las Madres de la Plaza de Montevideo (Uruguay) Cristo Redentor 301 Gardel 74
Mayo 584 Moreno, Perito 443-4 Museo Casa de
Las Yungas 249-50, 266 520, 528, 534-5 Motorcycle Diaries, the 146 Ernesto Che Guevara
land sailing 35, 352, 353 Northeastern motorcycle travel 617-19 304-5, 306-7
language 20, 620-6 driver’s license 618 Museo Cóndor Huasi 275
courses 75, 154, 222, Argentina 161 fuel 618 Museo de Artesanías
Salta 231 insurance 618 Tradicionales
324, 361, 523 mate 42, 114, 188, 43 rental 618 Folclóricas 173
laundry 606 measures 606 road rules 618-19 Museo de Culturas
legal matters 606 Mendoza 49, 320-36, 322-3 mountain biking, see Originarias
lesbian travelers 98, 571, accommodations 325-7 bicycling Patagónicas 435
climate 318 mountaineering 23, 35, Museo de la Ciudad
605 drinking 332 321-2, 358-9, 457 57, 154
Buenos Aires 98 entertainment 332 Museo de la Memoria
Uruguay 571 festivals & events 325 (Rosario) 154
lifestyle 588 food 327-32 Museo de la Memoria
literature 414, 570, 592-3, information 333-5 (Córdoba) 287
see also books shopping 333
sights 320-1
travel seasons 318

INDEX M–N634 Museo Gauchesco Museo y Archivo Dardo Parque Nacional Monte
museums continued Ricardo Güiraldes 123 Rocha 119 León 430-1
Museo de la Pasión
Boquense 68 Museo Indígena Museo y Mercado Parque Nacional Nahuel
Museo de La Plata 119 (Uruguay) 540 Provincial de Huapi 368-71, 369
Museo de la Policía Artesanías 168
Federal 57 Museo Jesuítico Parque Nacional Pali
Museo de la Nacional de Jesús Museo Yamaná 496 Aike (Chile) 477
Revolución Industrial María 297, 297 Sendero Triásico 284
(Uruguay) 546 music 100-3, 590-1 Parque Nacional
Museo de la Tradición Museo Judío de Entre festivals 28, 76, 361, 371, Patagonia 445
(Uruguay) 547 Ríos 186
Museo de la Vid y El Vino 395, 500 Parque Nacional Perito
238-9 Museo Las Bóvedas 337 Moreno 447-8
Museo de los Andes Museo Malvinas N
(Uruguay) 521 Parque Nacional
Museo de los Argentinas 431 national parks & Quebrada del
Pioneros 431 Museo Mapuche 388 reserves 600 Condorito 310
Museo de Museo Martín Laguna de Rocha
Pachamama 269 (Uruguay) 562 Parque Nacional Río
Museo de Tierra del Gusinde 514 Monumento Natural Pilcomayo 210
Fuego 516 Museo Mitre 57 Bosques Petrificados
Museo de Vino Santiago Museo Mundial del 428-9 Parque Nacional
Graffigna 347 Parque Interjurisdiccional Santa Teresa
Museo del Azulejo 540 Tango 60 Marino Isla Pingüino (Uruguay) 567-8
Museo del Museo Municipal 428
Bicentenario 56 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Sierra
Museo del Cablecarril 281 Carmen Funes 397 Bernardo O’Higgins de las Quijadas 297,
Museo del Carnaval Museo Municipal (Chile) 482-3 315, 296
(Uruguay) 521 Parque Nacional
Museo del Fin del (Uruguay) 540 Calilegua 250 Parque Nacional
Mundo 496 Museo Nacional del Parque Nacional Campo Talampaya
Museo del Fútbol de los Alisos 266 283-4, 242
(Uruguay) 522 Petróleo 424 Parque Nacional Campos
Museo del Gaucho Museo Nao Victoria 429 del Tuyú 135 Parque Nacional Tierra
(Uruguay) 522 Museo Paleontológico Parque Nacional Chaco del Fuego 508-11, 596
Museo del Hombre 277 209
Museo del Hombre Alejandro Berro Parque Nacional do Parque Nacional Torres
Chaqueño 205 (Uruguay) 545 Iguaçu (Brazil) 211-15 del Paine (Chile)
Museo del Hombre Museo Paleontológico Parque Nacional El 483-91, 486-7
y la Tecnología Egidio Feruglio 415 Leoncito 352-3
(Uruguay) 548 Museo Paleontológico Parque Nacional El Parque Provincial
Museo del Indio y del (Uruguay) 540 Palmar 185-6 Aconcagua 339-40
Gaucho (Uruguay) 550 Museo Penitenciario 64 Parque Nacional El
Museo del Mate 114 Museo Perón 420 Rey 232 Parque Provincial
Museo del Patrimonio 63 Museo Portugués Parque Nacional Iguazú Ernesto Tornquist 132
Museo del Presidio 496 (Uruguay) 539-40 203-5
Museo del Puerto 148 Museo Primeros Parque Nacional Lago Parque Provincial
Museo del Tren 435 Pobladores 379 Puelo 375 Ischigualasto 355
Museo Español Museo Provincial de Parque Nacional Laguna
(Uruguay) 540 Ciencias Naturales Blanca 396 Parque Provincial
Museo Etnográfico Juan y Oceanográfico Parque Nacional Lanín Moconá 190
B Ambrosetti 57 401, 404 385-7, 386
Museo Etnográfico y Museo Provincial Padre Parque Nacional Lihué Parque Provincial
Colonial Provincial 164 Jesús Molina 431 Calel 134 Payunia 345
Museo Evita 73 Museo Regional Parque Nacional Los
Museo Folclórico Manuel Andes 439 Alerces 440-3, 441 Parque Provincial Volcán
Belgrano 263 Museo Regional Parque Nacional Los Tupungato 341
Museo Folklórico (La de Magallanes Arrayanes 365,
Rioja) 278 (Chile) 472-3 375-6, 364 Reserva Ecológica
Museo Fundacional 321 Museo Regional Parque Nacional Los Costanera Sur 60-1
Patagónico 424 Cardones 233-4
Map Pages 000 Museo Regional Pueblo Parque Nacional Los Reserva Faunística
Photo Pages 000 de Luis 415 Glaciares (North) Península Valdés 17
Museo Rocsen 311 455-8
Museo San Huberto 134 Parque Nacional Los Reserva Los
Museo Taller Glaciares (South) Huemules 449
Ferrowhite 148 466-71, 467
Museo Temático de Reserva Natural
Maquetas Tupac Municipal Punta
Amaru 247 Rasa 135
Museo Tradicionalista
Fuerte Reserva Natural Ría
Independencia 127 Deseado 428
Museo Xul Solar 71
Reserva Provincial Cabo
Vírgenes 434

Reserva Provincial
Esteros del Iberá 18,
177-81

Reserva Provincial
Parque Luro 133-4

Sierra de las Ánimas
(Uruguay) 553

Necochea 146-7
Neuquén 396-9
newspapers 606

635

Northeast Argentina Parque Miguel Lillo 146 Parque Provincial Ernesto calendar of events 26-8 INDEX N–Q
150-217, 152-3 Tornquist 132
accommodations 150 Parque Yatana Park 496 chlidren, travel with 45-6
climate 150 Parque Provincial
highlights 152-3, 152-3 Paseo del Bosque 119 Ischigualasto 283, 355 internet resources 21
parks & reserves 150
travel seasons 150 Uruguay 566 Parque Provincial Volcán itineraries 29-33
Tupungato 341
Nuestra Señora de Parque 3 de Febrero 71, 81 repeat visitors 22
Loreto 194-5 Parque Archaeologico Colo parrilla 12, 41, 44, 12, 40
parrots 409 travel seasons 20, 26
O Michi-Co 395 Paso de los Libres 187-8
passports 614 plants 598, 600
Obelisco 63 Parque Nacional Bernardo Patagonia (Argentina) 50,
Ocampo, Victoria 139 O’Higgins (Chile) 482-3 Playa de los Amonites 448
Oktoberfest 308 400-91, 596, 402-3
ombúes 564 Parque Nacional accommodations 400 Playa Unión 418
Once 74 Calilegua 250 climate 400
opening hours 21, 608 highlights 402-3, 402-3 Plaza 25 de Mayo 164
Parque Nacional Chaco 209 outdoor activities 445,
Uruguay 572 Plaza de Mayo 53
orcas 422 Parque Nacional do Iguaçu 458, 468-9, 468-9
orientation 606 (Brazil) 211-15 parks & reserves 400 Plaza Dorrego 64
Ostende 136 travel seasons 400
outdoor activities 25, 34-8, Parque Nacional El travel to/from 401 politics 568, 576
Leoncito 352-3 travel within 401
see also individual trekking 435 Pope Francis 577
activities Parque Nacional El wildlife 422-3, 422-3
Oxo beef cubes 546 Palmar 185-6 Patagonia (Chile) 471-90 population 577
Paysandú (Uruguay) 547-8
P Parque Nacional El Rey 232 peñas 231 Porvenir (Chile) 515-16
penguins 422, 17, 422
palaces & mansions Parque Nacional Área Natural Protegida Posadas 188-92, 189
Castillo de Piria Iguazú 203-5 postal services 608
(Uruguay) 553 Punta Tombo 420
Parque Nacional Lago Cabo Dos Bahías 424 Potrerillos 337
paleontology 397, 415, Puelo 375 Monumento Natural Los
540, 545 public holidays 608-9
Parque Nacional Laguna Pingüinos (Chile) 477
Palermo 71-3, 82-7, 91-3, Blanca 396 Parque Uruguay 572
96-107, 108-9, 84-5
Parque Nacional Lanín Interjurisdiccional public transportation 619
Palermo Viejo 72 385-7, 386 Marino Isla
Pampa de Leoncito 353 Pingüino 428 Pucará 252-3, 257
Pampa Linda 370-1 Parque Nacional Lihué Parque Nacional Monte Puente del Inca 339
Pampas, the 48, 116-34, Calel 134 León 430
Puerto San Julián 429 Puerto Deseado 427-8
595-6, 116 Parque Nacional Los Reserva Provincial Cabo
accommodations 115 Alerces 440-3, 441 Vírgenes 434 Puerto Iguazú
climate 115 Río Gallegos 431 197-203, 198
food 115 Parque Nacional Los Perito Moreno 443-5
highlights 116, 116 Arrayanes 365, 375-6, Perito Moreno Glacier, Puerto Madero 60-2,
travel seasons 115 see glaciers 88, 81
Papagayos 317 364-5 Perón, Eva 53, 69, 73, 582
paragliding 25, 38, 263, 361 Parque Nacional Los Perón, Juan 420, 582-3 Puerto Madryn 401,
Paraná 168-71, 170 petrified forests 404-9, 405
Paraná Delta 151, 154 Cardones 233-4 428-9, 447
parks & gardens phone cards 610 Puerto Mar del Plata 139
Cerro El Centinela 126 Parque Nacional Los photography 606
El Pedral 22, 409 Glaciares (North) 455-8 Pichincha 160 Puerto Natales (Chile)
Jardín Japonés 73 pickpockets 609 477-82, 478-9
Parque 3 de Febrero 71, 81 Parque Nacional Los Piedra del Fraile 456
Parque Aguirre 270 Glaciares (South) Pinamar 135-7 Puerto Pirámides 411-13
Parque Archaeologico 466-71, 467 Piriápolis (Uruguay) 552-3,
554, 555 Puerto San Julián 429-30
Colo Michi-Co 395 Parque Nacional Monte Pittamiglio, Humberto 523
Parque de los León 430 planning Puerto Williams
Argentina basics 20-1 (Chile) 513-16
Menhires 269 Parque Nacional Nahuel budgeting 21
Parque General San Huapi 368-71, 369 Punta Arenas (Chile)
471-7, 472
Martín 320 Parque Nacional Pali Aike
(Chile) 477 Punta Cantor 414

Parque Nacional Perito Punta del Diablo (Uruguay)
Moreno 447-8 533, 565-7, 533

Parque Nacional Quebrada Punta del Este (Uruguay)
del Condorito 310 553-61, 558, 555

Parque Nacional Santa Punta Delgada 413
Teresa (Uruguay) 567-8
Punta Ninfas 409
Parque Nacional Sierra de las
Quijadas 297, 315, 296 Punta Norte 414

Parque Nacional Talampaya Purmamarca 251-2, 256,
283-4, 242 257, 599

Parque Nacional Tierra del Q
Fuego 508-11, 509, 596
Quebrada de Cafayate 245
Parque Nacional Torres del
Paine 483-91, 484 Quebrada de Humahuaca
17, 250-60, 256-7,
Parque Provincial 17, 256-7
Aconcagua 339-40
Quebrada de los Cuervos
(Uruguay) 566

Quilmes 269-70

INDEX R–T636 shopping 161 San Antonio de los San Martín de los
sights 151-4 Cobres 245-6 Andes 380
R tours 154-5
travel to/from 161 San Carlos 238 Ushuaia 498
rafting 25, 38 travel within 164 Villa la Angostura 376
Central Andes 324, 337, Rosas, Juan Manuel de San Clemente del Tuyú 135 Villa Pehuenia 390
343, 352 580-1 skydiving 38
Lake District 359, 371, Rua, Fernando de la 585-6 San Ignacio 192-4 smoking 606
380, 389 ruins snowboarding, see skiing
Patagonia 435 Castillo San Carlos 186-7 San Ignacio Miní 18, 192, soccer, see fútbol
Salta 223 Cayastá 168 163, 18, 162 sporting events 76, 142, 388,
El Shincal 22, 276-7 436, 421, 449, 500
rappelling 343 Nuestra Señora de San José de Jáchal 353 sports 66-7, 589, 66-7
Rawson 418 Uruguay 570
reciprocity fees 612 Loreto 194-5 San Juan 347-50, 348 Stanley 490
Recoleta 79-82, 90-1, 95-6, Paraguay 195 San Luis 311, 312-17 stargazing 343-4
Pucará 252-3, 257 SUBE Card 112
108, 70 San Ignacio Miní 163, 162 San Marcos Sierras 302-4 supper clubs 89
religion 122, 347, 577 Ruta 40 346, 394, 424, surfing 137, 142, 353, 556,
438, 469 San Martín de los Andes 562, 564
Uruguay 569 tours 438 365, 378-84, 379, 365 swimming 75
Represa Salto Grande Ruta del Adobe 277
Ruta de los Siete Lagos San Rafael 341-3 T
(Uruguay) 548-9 379-80
Reserva Faunística Ruta de los Siete Lagos San Telmo 15, 63-4, 78-9, Tacuarembó
(Seven Lakes Route) 14 89-90, 94, 107-8, (Uruguay) 550-1
Península Valdés 17, Ruta del Vino de San 58-9, 15
410-14, 410, 17 Juan 351 Tafí del Valle 266-8
Reserva Provincial Cabo Santa Ana 194, 195 Tandil 125-8
Vírgenes 434 S tango 100-3, 590, 7, 100,
Reserva Provincial Esteros Santa Fe 164-8, 166
del Iberá 18, 177-81, 163 safe travel 609-10 Santa María 269 101, 102
Reserva Provincial Parque Buenos Aires 68, 110 Buenos Aires 99-104
Luro 133-4 Iguazú Falls 196 Santa María la Mayor 195-7 classes 523
Resistencia 205-9, 206 festivals 28, 76
Retiro 68-9, 79, 90, 95, sailing 440-1, see also Santa Rosa 132-3 milongas 102-3,
108, 70 cruises
Río Blanco 456 Santiago del Estero 270-2, 104-5, 102-3
Río Colorado 240 Salazar 389 Montevideo
Río de la Plata 595 Salinas Grandes 246-7 271
Río de los Patos 352 salt plains 246-7 Sarmiento, Domingo (Uruguay) 531
Río Eléctrico 457 Salta 15, 48, 219-33, 226-7 museums 60
Río Gallegos 431-4, 432 Faustino 347 Rosario 160, 161
Río Grande 512-13 accommodations 218, Uruguay 570
Río Jeinemeni 445 224-5, 228-9 scenic drives taxes 607-8
Río Mayo 443, 444 Teatro Colón 62, 80
Río Negro 409-10 climate 218 Circuito Chico 368-70 Teatro Solís (Uruguay) 520
Río Paraná 151-81 courses 222 telephone services 610-11
Río Uruguay 181-8 drinking 231 Circuito Costero 429 Uruguay 573
road trips, see scenic drives food 22, 229-30 Tierra del Fuego 50,
rock art 132, 240, 316, 337, information 231-2 Circuito Pehuenia 390 492-516, 596-7, 494-5
395, 448 shopping 231-3 accommodations 492
Rodeo 353-4 sights 219, 222 Ruta 40 424, 438, climate 492
Roque Sáenz Peña 209-11 tours 222-3 469, 31 food 492
Rosario 151-64, 156-7 travel seasons 218 highlights 494-5, 494-5
accommodations 155-7 travel to/from 232-3 Ruta de los Siete Lagos travel seasons 492
activities 154 travel within 233 (Seven Lakes Route) travel to/from 493
courses 154 Salta province 219-61, 14, 379-80 travel within 493
drinking 159-60 220-1, 224-5 Tigre 113-14
entertainment 160-1 Salto 548-50 scenic flights 214, 282, 496 Tilcara 252-5, 256
festivals & events 155 Salto Grande (Chile) 485 time 611
food 157-9 Saltos del Quequén 146 scuba diving, see diving Brazil 215
history 151 San Agustín de Valle language 623-4
information 161 Fértil 354 sculpture 205, 206 tipping 608
San Antonio de Areco toilets 611
Map Pages 000 123-5, 124 sea lions 142, 404, 409-10, Tolhuin 511
Photo Pages 000 411, 422, 563, 423, 599

seals 422

Seclantás 236

Senda Costera 510

Senda Hito XXIV 510

Senda Pampa Alta 510

Serranía de Hornocal 258

Seven Lakes Route 14,
379-80

Shackleton, Ernest 514

sheep-shearing 443

Sierra de la Ventana 128-32

Sierra Velluda 393

skiing 25, 36, 37
Bariloche 359

Caviahue 392

Cerro Chapelco 384

Cerro Aconcagua 18, 19
Esquel 435

Las Leñas 15, 345, 15
Los Penitentes 338

Mendoza 323-4

637

Torreón del Monje 139-41 travel within 574 Domuyo 395 Reserva Provincial INDEX T–Z
Torres del Paine, see Par- visas 573 Lanín 385, 386, 387 Esteros del Iberá 177
Ushuaia 14, 493-508, 505, Malacara 344
que Nacional Torres del 498-9, 14, 504 Tupungato 341 Tierra del Fuego
Paine (Chile) accommodations 501-3 volunteering 612-13 (Chile) 515
tourist information 611 activities 496, 498
tours drinking 507 W windsurfing 38, 135, 353
wine 325 entertainment 507 wine 12, 25, 44, 328-31, 12
train travel 619 food 503-7 water 44
Circuito history 493 waterfalls 24 Buenos Aires 95
Ferroportuario 424 information 507 festivals 76, 325
El Tren del Fin de Mundo shopping 507 Andean Northwest 240 museums 238-9, 347
505, 504 sights 493, 496 Atlantic Coast 146 tours 325
La Trochita 434 tours 498-500 Central Andes 353 wineries
museums & historic travel to/from 508 Iguazú Falls 10, 22, 48, Andean Northwest
sites 427, 435 travel within 508
Tren a las Nubes 223, Uspallata 337-8 212-13, 215, 595, 11, 22, 237, 240, 255,
243, 242 212-13, 594 281-2, 242-3
Tren Turístico 434 V Lake District 375, Maipú 334
transportation 614-19 378, 392 Mendoza 318, 321,
language 624 vacations 608-9 Parque Nacional do 328-31, 329
travel to/from Argentina Uruguay 572 Iguaçu (Brazil) 211-15 Neuquén 396-7
21, 614-16 Parque Nacional San Juan 351
travel within Argentina 21, Valeria 136 Iguazú 203-5 San Rafael 341-2
616-19 Valle de Calingasta 350-3 Patagonia (Chile) 485 Uruguay 544
traveler’s checks 608 Valle de Conlara 316-17 Saltos del Moconá 190 Valle de Uco 336
trekking, see hiking Valle de las Pinturas 134 Uruguay 553 women travelers 613
Trelew 414-18, 416 Valle de las Sierras weather 20, 26-8 work 613
Tren a las Nubes 223, weights 606 World Heritage sites
243, 242 Puntanas 315-16 Welsh culture 415 Alta Gracia 304
Trevelin 439-40 Valle de Uco 336 Western Catamarca 277-8 Colonia del Sacramento
Tucumán 261-6, 262-3 Valle del Lunarejo Western Uruguay 537-51 (Uruguay) 537-43, 532
Tunuyán 341 wetlands 210 Cueva de las Manos
(Uruguay) 566 whales 411, 422, 423 446-7
U Valle Edén 551-2 whale-watching 404, 409, Estancia Santa Catalina
Valle Grande 343 411-12, 424 305
UFO sightings 303 Valles Calchaquíes 233-8 wildlife 25, 422-3, 597-8, Manzana Jesuítica
Uquía 255-8, 256 vegetarian & vegan see also individual 290, 579
Uruguay 50, 517-74, 518-19 species Museo de la
travelers 44 wildlife reserves 401, 409, Revolución Industrial
accommodations 517, 571 Buenos Aires 88 410-14, 458-9 (Uruguay) 546
activities 571 Ventisquero Negro 370 wildlife-watching 46, see Parque Nacional
budgeting 571, 572 vicuñas 237 also bird-watching, Torres del Paine
climate 517 Villa Carlos Paz 311 individual species (Chile) 483-91, 486-7
culture 569-70 Villa El Chocón 397 Cabo Dos Bahías 424 Quebrada de
currency 527 Villa General Belgrano Cabo Polonio Humahuaca 17,
disabilities, travelers 308, 311 (Uruguay) 564 250-60, 256-7,
Villa Gesell 137-8 Esteros del Iberá 22 17, 256-7
with 573 Villa la Angostura 375-7, Mar Chiquita 143 Reserva Faunística
emergencies 571 14, 382 Parque Interjurisdiccional Península Valdés 17,
environment 571 Villa O’Higgins 454 Marino Isla 410-14, 410, 17
festivals & events 569 Villa Pehuenia 390-2 Pingüino 428 San Ignacio Miní 18, 192,
food 517, 570, 571 Villa Traful 377-8 Parque Nacional 163, 18, 162
gay travelers 571 Villa Ventana 132 Calilegua 250 W, the (Chile) 486-7
health 572 Villavicencio 337 Parque Nacional El
highlights 518-19, 518-19 vineyards, see wineries Palmar 185 Y
history 568-9 visas 573, 612 Parque Nacional
itineraries 522 volcanoes Iguazú 204 Yahgan (Yamaná)
lesbian travelers 571 Achen Niyeu 385 Parque Nacional Lihué culture 496
money 572 Antofagasta de la Calel 134
opening hours 572 Puerto Madryn 404 Yapeyú 184
politics 568 Sierra 275 Reserva Faunística Yavi 261
travel seasons 517 Antuco 393 Península Valdés
travel to/from 573-4 Batea Mahuida 390 410, 413 Z
Copahue 393
Zapala 395-6
zonda 349
zoos 73, 197-8, 209, 215

6 38 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes

Beach Bank Tollway
Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway
Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary
Castle/Palace Internet Secondary
Christian Police Tertiary
Confucian Post Office Lane
Hindu Telephone Unsealed road
Islamic Toilet Road under construction
Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall
Jewish Other Information Steps
Monument Tunnel
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass
Ruin Walking Tour
Shinto Beach Walking Tour detour
Sikh Gate Path/Walking Trail
Taoist Hut/Shelter
Winery/Vineyard Lighthouse Boundaries
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Lookout
Other Sight Mountain/Volcano International
Oasis State/Province
Activities, Park Disputed
Courses & Tours Pass Regional/Suburb
Picnic Area Marine Park
Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff
Diving Wall
Canoeing/Kayaking Population
Course/Tour Hydrography
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (National)
Skiing Capital (State/Province) River, Creek
Snorkeling City/Large Town Intermittent River
Surfing Town/Village Canal
Swimming/Pool
Walking Transport Water
Windsurfing
Other Activity Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Border crossing
Sleeping Bus Reef
Cable car/Funicular
Sleeping Cycling Areas
Camping Ferry
Metro station Airport/Runway
Eating Monorail
Parking Beach/Desert
Eating Petrol station
Subway/Subte station Cemetery (Christian)
Drinking & Nightlife Taxi
Train station/Railway Cemetery (Other)
Drinking & Nightlife Tram
Cafe Underground station Glacier
Other Transport
Entertainment Mudflat
Note: Not all symbols displayed above
Entertainment appear on the maps in this book Park/Forest

Shopping Sight (Building)

Shopping Sportsground

Swamp/Mangrove

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Carolyn McCarthy
Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego Carolyn first fell for Argentina while teaching
English in Buenos Aires when the peso floated on par with the US dollar. She
is a frequent visitor to Patagonia. For this trip, she traveled over 7500km
overland, exploring parks, estancias and wine lists. Carolyn has contributed
to over twenty Lonely Planet titles, including Trekking in the Patagonian
Andes, and has written for National Geographic, Outside, Boston Globe and
other publications.
Read more about Carolyn at:

http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/carolynmccarthy

Andy Symington
Iguazú Falls & the Northeast, Salta & the Andean Northwest Andy’s rela-
tionship with Argentina is a story of four generations: his grand­mother lived
here in the ’20s, and her father ran a mate plantation in the northeast. Andy
first visited the country with his own father, the start of a long love affair
with the country that has involved many trips all around the nation, a spell
living and working in Buenos Aires, and a deep-rooted respect for provincial
Argentina. Andy hails from Australia, lives in northern Spain, and has contributed to many
Lonely Planet products.

Lucas Vidgen
Córdoba & the Central Sierras, Mendoza & the Central Andes, Bariloche &
the Lake District Lucas first visited Argentina in 2001 and was captivated
by the country’s wide open spaces and cosmopolitan cities. The huge
amount of quality beef and wine didn’t go unnoticed, either. Lucas has
contributed to a variety of Latin American Lonely Planet titles, including
various editions of the Argentina and South America books. He currently
divides his time between his hometown in Melbourne, Australia and his adopted mountain
home in Quetzalt­ enango, Guatemala.

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief
that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Sandra Bao
Coordinating Writer, Buenos Aires Sandra’s mom and her family escaped
China’s communist regime in the years following WWII, eventually boarding
a freighter bound for Argentina in 1952. After her parents met and married in
Montevideo, Uruguay, the Baos lived the carefree porteño life (with asados every
Sunday) until 1974, when things in Argentina got politically dicey. Once again the
family emigrated to greener pastures, this time the USA.
Sandra is proud to be a porteña and has regularly returned to her homeland as an adult,
watching the peso fluctuate wildly through the decades. Highlights from this trip to Buenos Aires
included investigating new steak eateries, wine bars and local sights. Over the last 15 years she’s
contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks. Sandra also updated the Plan Your Trip, Under-
stand and Survival Guide sections.

Gregor Clark
Uruguay Over the past 25 years, Gregor has travelled South America from tip
to tail, developing a special fondness for Uruguay while researching the last five
editions of this book. Favorite memories from this trip include herding cattle on
horseback at Estancia Panagea, eating buñuelos de algas in Cabo Polonio and
watching roseate spoonbills in Valle del Lunarejo. He has contributed to two
dozen other Lonely Planet titles, including Brazil and South America on a Shoe-
string. He lives in Vermont (USA).
Read more about Gregor at:

http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/gregorclark

Bridget Gleeson
The Pampas & the Atlantic Coast Based in Buenos Aires, Bridget is a travel
writer and occasional photographer. Though she’s been to nearly every far-flung
corner of the country for work and for pleasure, she’d never set foot in La Pampa
until now — and her travels for this title proved to be an interesting window into
Argentine character and culture.

OVER MORE
PAGE WRITERS

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ABN 36 005 607 983 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the
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ISBN 978 1 74360 118 1 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016

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