49
Córdoba & the Mendoza & the Bariloche & the PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance
Central Sierras Central Andes Lake District
Historic Buildings Wine Tours Activities
Nightlife Mountains Village Life
Paragliding Rafting Paleontology
Oldies but Goodies Hear It on the Get Out There
The Jesuit legacy in Cór- Grapevine There’s always something
doba extends beyond Get to the heart of Argen- to do in the Lake District,
wine making and higher tina’s magnificent wine a true year-round destina-
education – they also con- culture by visiting the tion. Powder hounds hit
structed some fabulous vineyards, talking to the the slopes in season at the
buildings. Córdoba city winemakers and seeing province’s top-notch ski
boasts an entire block how it all comes together, resorts while the rest of the
of well-preserved Jesuit from planting the vine to year the mountain trails,
architecture, and further tasting the final, delicious hikers’ refuges and expan-
examples are scattered product. sive vistas make it a trek-
around the province. ker’s paradise.
Lofty Ambitions
Bring on the Night Snow-capped year-round Kicking Back
Catch an independent and dominating the hori- One of the joys of travel-
movie or a play, dance the zon, the Andes are one of ing through this region
night away or grab a few Argentina’s iconic images. is discovering small alp
quiet drinks in a cozy bar – Get up close and personal ine villages nestled in
whatever you’re looking for, with them by climbing the forest, surrounded by
Córdoba’s young population Aconcagua, the Americas’ breathtaking mountain
and vibrant cultural scene highest peak, or hitting the scenery – the perfect
make finding it a snap. slopes in Mendoza’s world- remedy for big-city blues.
class ski resorts.
Take to the Skies Jurassic Parks
If you’ve ever even been Wet & Wild Some truly huge animals
vaguely tempted to try All that snowmelt from the used to roam these parts –
paragliding, this is the Andes does more than just including the world’s larg-
place to do it – the world- irrigate the grapevines. It est dinosaur and the
famous launch sites of La also feeds a couple of rivers world’s largest carnivore.
Cumbre and Merlo are that gush down from the The sites where they were
home to scores of instruc- mountains, giving rafters discovered are open to the
tors offering tandem flights the ride of their lives. public to teach a humbling
that will have you soaring lesson in size.
with the condors. p318
p356
p285
50
PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance Patagonia Tierra del Fuego Uruguay
Hiking Hiking Beaches
Wildlife-watching Sea Travel Estancias
Adventure Winter Sports Food & Wine
Wild Hiking Hoof It A Beach for Every
Iconic hikes around Fitz Austral summer’s long days Taste
Roy and Torres del Paine make for backpacking bliss. Beachside bliss wears many
bring deserved fame to Dientes de Navarino is the faces on Uruguay’s Atlantic
the trails of Patagonia. But iconic Fuegian trek, but the coast: chasing the perfect
if you have time, check enchanted forests of Parque surf break at La Pedrera,
out the millennial forests Nacional Tierra del Fuego getting friendly with sea
of Parque Nacional Los also give a quick dose of big lions at Cabo Polonio or
Alerces and the electric nature. scanning the sands for
turquoise lakes of ultra- international celebrities at
remote Parque Nacional Set Sail Punta del Este.
Perito Moreno. You don’t have to round
Cape Horn to find magic Wide Open Skies
Creature Feature in these southern seas. Uruguay’s gaucho soul lies
Abundant marine life Sail the Beagle Channel in in its vast interior land-
makes the coast, and Penín- search of marine life and scapes. For a taste of tra-
sula Valdés in particular, indigenous ruins, boat ditional ranch life, spend a
the hub for watching wild- through the Chilean fjords few nights on an estancia,
life, but there’s also the or paddle a sea kayak. riding horseback into an
subtle allure of Patagonia’s endless horizon by day and
guanaco herds, soaring Winter Wonderland savoring the warmth of the
condors and ñandús that Brave a winter journey fire and the brilliance of
sprint across the steppe. to the frozen ends of the the stars by night.
earth. From June to Octo-
Real Adventure ber, snow makes Ushuaia Carnivore Paradise
Riding on an estancia, adventure central. Whoosh Something’s always grill-
driving RN 40, glacier down the slopes of Cerro ing in Uruguay. The classic
chasing or just getting deep Castor, ski cross-country parrillada (mixed grill) of
into the Andean wilder- or zoom over the snow- steak, pork chops, chorizo
ness: Patagonia is all about drifts driven by sled dogs. and morcilla (blood sau-
unfettered freedom and the Crackling bonfires, seafood sage) is enough to make
allure of the unexpected. banquets and comfy lodges any carnivore swoon, espe-
cap the day. cially when accompanied
p400 by a glass of tannat from
p492 one of the country’s up-
and-coming wineries.
p517
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
On the
Road
Salta & the Iguazú Falls &
Andean Northwest the Northeast
p218 p150
Córdoba &
the Central
Sierras Uruguay
Mendoza &
the Central Andes p285 p517
p318 Buenos Aires p52
The Pampas &
the Atlantic Coast
p115
Bariloche &
the Lake District
p356
Patagonia
p400
Tierra del Fuego
p492
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Buenos Aires
% 011 / POP 3 MILLION / AREA 203 SQ KM
Includes Why Go?
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Whip together a beautiful metropolis with gourmet cuisine,
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 awesome shopping and frenzied nightlife – and you get
Courses. . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Buenos Aires. It’s a rough-hewn mix of Paris’ architecture,
Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Rome’s traffic and Madrid’s late-night hours, all spiked
Festivals & Events . . . . 75 with Latin American flavor. BA is cosmopolitan, seductive,
Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 emotional, frustrating and chock-full of attitude, and there’s
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 no other place like it in the world. Seek out classic BA: the
Drinking & Nightlife. . . 93 old-world cafes, colonial architecture, curious markets and
Entertainment. . . . . . . .99 diverse communities. Visit with Evita at Recoleta’s famous
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . 106 cemetery, fill your belly with luscious steaks, dance the sul-
Getting There & try tango and take in a crazy fútbol (soccer) match. Unfor-
Away. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 gettable adventures? You’d better believe it.
Getting There &
Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Everyone knows someone who has been here and raved
Tigre & the Delta . . . . . 113 about it. You’ve put it off long enough. Come to BA and you’ll
understand why so many people have fallen in love with this
amazing city. There’s a good chance you’ll be one of them.
Best Places to Eat When to Go Rainfall inches/mm
10/250
¨¨i Latina (p92) Buenos Aires
¨¨Casa Saltshaker (p91)
¨¨Chan Chan (p88) °C/°F Temp
¨¨Sarkis (p91)
¨¨Don Julio (p92) 40/104
Best Places 30/86 8/200
to Stay
20/68 6/150
¨¨Poetry Building (p82)
¨¨Miravida Soho (p83) 10/50 4/100
¨¨The 5th Floor (p83)
¨¨Casa Calma (p79) 0/32 2/50
¨¨Cabrera Garden (p83)
-10/14 J F MAM J 0
J ASOND
Oct–Dec Spring Aug Winter’s peak Mar–May Explore
and early summer brings BA’s tango BA during fall’s
mean warm days festival; or visit pleasant days, and
to enjoy outdoor museums, art gal- catch the city’s
restaurant patios leries and cultural Independent Film
and bars. centers. Festival in April.
53
History TOP FIVE SPLURGES B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts
Buenos Aires was first settled in 1536 by ¨¨Book a room at the classic,
Spaniard Pedro de Mendoza, but food sumptuous Alvear Palace Hotel (p82)
shortages and attacks by indigenous groups
prompted his hasty departure in 1537. ¨¨Reserve a table at the closed-door
Meanwhile, other expedition members left restaurant i Latina (p92)
the settlem ent, sailed 1600km upriver and
founded Asunción (now capital of Para- ¨¨Drink, eat and learn about Argentine
guay). Then in 1580 a new group of settlers customs at the Argentine Experience
moved back south and repopulated Men (p91)
doza’s abandoned outpost.
¨¨Head to the countryside and go horse
For the next 196 years BA was a backwa- back riding with Caballos a la Par (p74)
ter and smuggler’s paradise due to trade re-
strictions imposed by mother Spain. All the ¨¨Snag two tickets to the Faena Hotel’s
same, its population had grown to around sexy Rojo Tango (p99) show
20,000 by 1776, the year Spain decreed the
city as capital of the new viceroyalty of Río jammed during the day with businesspeople,
de la Plata. shoppers and tourists seeking vehicle-free
access from north to south. Buskers, beggars
BA’s cabildo (town council) cut ties with and street vendors thrive here as well, add-
its mother country on May 1810, but decades ing color and noise. Renovated old build-
of power struggles between BA and the oth- ings, such as beautiful Galerías Pacífico, add
er former viceregal provinces ensued, esca- elegance to the area.
lating into civil war. Finally, in 1880 the city
was declared the federal territory of Buenos Further south is BA’s busy financial dis-
Aires and the nation’s capital forevermore. trict, where there are several museums to
investigate. After that comes Plaza de Mayo,
Agricultural exports soared for the often filled with people resting on benches
next few decades, which resulted in great or taking photos of the surrounding historic
wealth accumulating in the city. Well-heeled sites.
porteños (BA citizens) built opulent French-
style mansions and the government spent oPlaza de Mayo PLAZA
lavishly on public works. But the boom times
didn’t last forever. The 1929 Wall Street crash (Map p58; cnr Av de Mayo & San Martín) Plant-
dealt a big blow to the country’s markets, ed between the Casa Rosada, the Cabildo
and soon the first of many military coups and the city’s main cathedral, grassy Plaza
took over. It was the end of Argentina’s Gold- de Mayo is BA’s ground zero for the city’s
en Age. most vehement protests. In the plaza’s
center is the Pirámide de Mayo, a white
Poverty, unemployment and decaying obelisk built to mark the first anniversary of
infrastructure became constant problems BA’s independence from Spain. If you hap-
in the following decades. Extreme govern- pen to be here on Thursday at 3:30pm, you’ll
ments and a roller-coaster economy have see the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo gather;
also been recurring plagues, but despite this these ‘mothers of the disappeared’ continue
Argentina continues to bounce back every to march for social justice causes.
few years. Today BA remains a vibrant city
with resilient and adaptable citizens – just Casa Rosada BUILDING
like their ancestral settlers.
(Pink House; Map p58; %011-4344-3600;
1 Sights hFree half-hour tours 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) On
the eastern side of Plaza de Mayo stands the
1 Microcentro stately Casa Rosada. It’s from the balconies
here that Eva Perón famously preached to
BA’s Microcentro is where the big city throngs of impassioned Argentines.
hustles: here you’ll see endless crowds of The building’s color could have come
business suits and power skirts hastening from President Sarmiento’s attempt at mak-
about the narrow streets in the shadows of ing peace during his 1868–74 term (by blend-
skyscrapers and old European buildings. ing the red of the Federalists with the white
of the Unitarists). Another theory, however,
Florida, a long pedestrian street, is the is that the color comes from painting the
main artery of this neighborhood. It’s always
54 #7 Fútbol Game #ã Parque Norte
Pachá
Buenos Espacio Memoria y
Aires Derechos Humanos (800m);
Highlights w # û#
1 Communing with Olivos (17km); D Tierra Santa
BA’s rich and famous San Isidro (21km);
dead at Cementerio Congreso de Tigre (34km) Av Figueroa dAlecorta Aeroparque
de la Recoleta Tucumán MMonuroseeo de BELGRANO Lago Jorge Newbery
(p69). #¦ Arte Español
2 Absorbing some B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts Av Enrique Larreta Palermo
history and seeing
the presidential Juramento #¦â#
offices at Plaza de w Av CorrientesLa Pampa Av del Libertador
Mayo (p53). José Av Dorrego
3 Checking out Av Forest
the very popular ¦# Hernández
Sunday antiques
fair (p108) at Plaza Estación #¦ Av Campo Argentina
Dorrego in San Telmo. Colegiales Estación de Polo £#
4 Eating and Cabildo Ministro
shopping at the £# Ca£#rr#¦anza
gourmet restaurants
and boutiques in COLEGIALES Av Sarmiento
Palermo Viejo
(p91). Álvarez Thomas Palermo £##¦Palermo
5 Marveling at Nightlife
amazingly high leg #6 PALERMO #¦
kicks and sexy moves Av Dorrego
at a tango show at a F Lacroze#¦ PALERMO B Justo #4 PALERMO #¦
venue such as Café £#1 1 1 1 1 1 1 HOLLYWOOD SOHO
de los Angelitos Palermo
(p99). 11111111 Av Juan Viejo Scalabrini Ortíz
6 Partying all night
long in Palermo’s 1 1 1 1 1Esta1ción1 #¦ Av Córdoba Av
chic and super- 1 1 1 1 1 F L1acro1ze 1
happening nightclubs 1 1 1 1 1C1em1 e1nt1er1io1d1e 1 1 1 VILLA
such as Niceto Club CRESPO
(p98). 1 1 1la Ch1aca1rita1 1
7 Attending a loud,
exciting and always 11111111
passionate fútbol
game (p66). 1111111
8 Strolling,
shopping and people- 11111111
watching on bustling
Florida (p53). 1111111
9 Wandering El
Caminito (p65) 11111111
and watching
weekend buskers in Av Warnes #¦ Bulnes
La Boca. #¦ Av Corrientes #¦
Av San Martín Av Ángel GallardoCPeanrqteuneadreiol
See Palermo ALMAGRO
Map (p84)
Av Díaz Vélez
#¦ ¦#
Av Gaona CABALLITO #¦ Río de Castro
Av Rivadavia Janeiro Barros
Av Boedo
#¦ Primera BOEDO
Junta
Boedo
José M Av La ¦#
Moreno #¦ Plata #¦ Av San Juan
Emilio #¦ A Av La Plata
Mitre Ca
Av Boedo
stañares
v
e# 0 55
0
2 km
1 mile
Av Costa Río de la Plata
B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts
Pier
nera R Obligado
Aliscafos
(Hydrofoils)
Parque 3 de Estación
Febrero
AAvvdPGeACleLLHnEibIeRCerraMOtlaOdLAoavrsFiHgueerraoSas£#aAldlcíoarsta
Estación
Maritima
See Retiro, Recoleta & Barrio Norte Map (p70)
#¦ RECOLETA Dársena A
¦# Austria dón #1 Cementerio Av del
#¦ de la Recoleta
BARRIO
Gallo Av 9 de Julio Libertad£#or Retiro
Av Pueyrre RETIRO ¦#
Av Callao Av Eduardo Madero
Florida
¦# NORTE ¦# Dársena
Av Santa Fe Norte
Av Córdoba Av Có#r8doba w w
¦# ¦#
¦# ¦# ¦# ¦# TRIBUNALES ¦# ¦# Florida Av Tristán Achaval Rodríguez dLealgaos
¦# ¦# ¦# Gaviolas
ONCE
Av Co¦#rrientes ¦# MICROCENTRO
Estación Once£#¦# Pasco Av d¦#e Plaza de Ma#¦yo#2 ¦# ReCsoesrtvaanEercaolSóugrica
Mayo ¦##¦ ¦# #÷
#¦ #¦ ¦# #ý#5 ¦# dLealgoos
Plaza Alberti Av 9 de Julio Patos
#¦ CONGRESO
Café de los ¦#
Loria Miserere BALVANERA ¦# Av Ing Huergo
Angelitos Av Belgrano MONTSERRAT Paseo Colón RC(soeossutetarhnveaerrnEaceSonultórrgaincace)
#¦ ¦# ÷#
Av Independencia See The Center, Plaza #3 PUERTO
Club Congreso & San Dorrego MADERO
General Gricel Jujuy Telmo Map (p58) #¦ ¦# See La Boca
Map (p65)
Urquiza #ý #¦ Pichincha ¦# CONSTITUCIÓN Av Brasil
#¦
AutoBpiusseentnaaoLSsauArPilraetsa
Av PatriciosAv JuEasntadceióGna¦#ra£#yABv rAolwmnirante Dár
Constitución
Bernardo de Irígoyen
Av Entre Rios
Av BoedoAv Chiclana Av Jujuy LA BOCA
Amanico Alcorta
Bra ndsen
Av Martín García
Av Caseros BARRACAS El Caminito #9
Av
56
palace with bovine blood, a common prac- Cabildo MUSEUM
tice in the late 19th century.
(Map p58 %011-4342-6729; www.cabildonacional.
The Casa Rosada now occupies a site com.ar; Bolívar 65; admission AR$15; h10:30am-
where colonial riverbank fortifications once 5pm Tue-Wed & Fri, to 8pm Thu, to 6pm Sat & Sun)
stood; today, however, after repeated land- This mid-18th-century town hall building
fills, the palace stands more than 1km in- is now a museum. It used to have colon-
land. The side of the palace that faces Plaza nades that spanned Plaza de Mayo, but the
B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts de Mayo is actually the back of the building. building of surrounding avenues unfortu-
The offices of the current Argentine presi- nately destroyed them. Inside you’ll find
dent are here, but the presidential residence a few mementos of the early 19th-century
is in the calm suburbs of Olivos, north of the British invasions, some paintings in colo-
center. nial and early independence style, and the
occasional temporary exhibit. There are
Underneath the Casa Rosada, excavations good views of Plaza de Mayo from the 2nd-
have unearthed remains of the Fuerte Viejo, floor balcony.
a ruin dating from the 18th century. These
are accessible via entry to the Museo del Galerías Pacífico LANDMARK
Bicentenario.
(Map p58; %011-5555-5110; cnr Florida & Av
Off-limits during the military dictatorship Córdoba; h10am-9pm, food court to 10pm, tours
of 1976–83, the Casa Rosada is now reason- 11:30am Mon-Fri) Covering an entire city
ably accessible to the public. Free half-hour block, this beautiful French-style building
tours are offered. has fulfilled the commercial purpose that
Museo del Bicentenario MUSEUM its designers envisioned when they con-
structed it in 1889. Galerías Pacífico is now
(Map p58; %011-4344-3802; www.museobicen a shopping center – dotted with lovely fairy
tenario.gob.ar; cnr Av Paseo Colón & Hipólito Yrigo
yen; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun) F Behind the lights at night – and boasts upscale stores
Casa Rosada you’ll notice a glassy wedge along with a large food court. The excellent
marking this airy and sparkling under- Centro Cultural Borges takes up the top
ground museum, housed within the brick floor. Tours are held in English and Span-
vaults of the old aduana (customs house). ish; go to the information kiosk near the
Head down into the open space, which has food court.
over a dozen side rooms – each dedicated
to a different era of Argentina’s tumultu- Centro Cultural Borges CULTURAL CENTER
ous political history. There are mostly vid- (Map p58; %011-5555-5359; www.ccborges.org.
ar; cnr Viamonte & San Martín; hexhibitions 10am-
eos (in Spanish) and a few artifacts to see, 9pm Mon-Sat, noon-9pm Sun) One of the best
along with temporary art exhibitions and
an impressive restored mural by Mexican cultural centers in BA, with inexpensive but
high-quality art exhibitions and galleries,
artist David Alfaro Siqueiros. Also check out cinema, music, lectures, classes and work-
Evita’s gown.
shops. Reasonably priced tango shows are
also available.
Catedral Metropolitana CATHEDRAL
(Map p58; museum admission AR$40; h7:30am- Manzana de las Luces BUILDING
6 :30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun, museum
10am-12:30pm Mon-Fri) This solemn cathe- (Block of Enlightenment; Map p58; %0 1 1- 4342-
6973; www.manazadelasluces.org; Perú 272; tours
dral was built on the site of the original AR$35; htours 3pm Mon-Fri, 3pm, 4:30pm &
colonial church and not finished until
1827. It’s a significant religious and archi 6pm Sat & Sun) In colonial times, the Man-
zana de las Luces was Buenos Aires’ most
tectural landmark, and carved above its important center of culture and learning.
triangular facade and neoclassical col-
umns are bas-reliefs of Jacob and Joseph. Even today, this collection of buildings still
symbolizes high culture in the capital. On
The spacious interior is equally impressive, the northern side of the block are two of
with baroque details and an elegant rococo
altar. There’s a small museum dedicated the five original buildings; Jesuit defen-
sive tunnels were discovered in 1912. Tours
to the cathedral’s history inside. For Pope (in Spanish) are available, and a cultural
Francis souvenirs, visit the small gift shop
near the entrance. center on the premises offers classes, work-
shops and theater.
57
BUENOS AIRES IN… B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts
Two Days
Start with a stroll in San Telmo and duck into some antiques stores. Walk north to
Plaza de Mayo (p53) for a historical perspective, then wander the Microcentro,
perhaps veering east to Puerto Madero – a great spot for a break.
Keep heading northward into Retiro and Recoleta, stopping off at the Museo
Nacional de Bellas Artes (p71) to admire some impressionism. Be sure to visit the
Cementerio de la Recoleta (p69) to commune with BA’s bygone elite. For dinner
and nightlife, Palermo Viejo is hard to beat.
On day two take in the Congreso neighborhood or head to La Boca. Shop in
Palermo Viejo and at night catch a tango show or a performance at the Teatro
Colón (p105).
Four Days
On your third day consider taking a day trip to Tigre, or Colonia in Uruguay. On the
fourth day you can go on a unique tour, take a tango lesson, check out Palermo’s
parks or head to the Feria de Mataderos (p108), if it’s a weekend. Be sure to find
yourself a good steak restaurant for your last meal.
oCentro Cultural only as an institute for research and uni-
versity training but also as an educational
Kirchner CULTURAL CENTER center for the public. On display are archae
ological and anthropological collections
(Map p58; %0800-333-9300; www.cultural from the Andean Northwest and Patagonia.
kirchner.gob.ar; Sarmiento 151; h5-9pm Thu & Fri, Beautiful indigenous costumes are also
2-9pm Sat & Sun, limited hrs outside summer) Nés featured, while an African and Asian room
tor Kirchner just had to leave a physical showcases some priceless pieces.
legacy, and this breathtaking cultural center
is possibly his best. It’s located in Buenos
Aires’ ex-main post office, a massive beaux-
arts structure eight stories tall and filling an Museo de la Policía Federal MUSEUM
entire city block. Dozens of rooms hold art (Map p58; %011-4394-6857; San Martín 353,
7th fl; h2-7pm Tue-Fri) F This quirky and
galleries, theaters, event halls, auditoriums extensive police museum displays a whole
and even an Eva Perón room; there’s also a
rooftop terrace. The highlight, however, is slew of uniforms and medals, along with
‘illegal activities’ exhibits (cockfighting and
La Ballena Azul, a giant concert hall that gambling), drug paraphernalia (including
seats 1800 and is home to Argentina’s na-
tional symphony orchestra. an anal smuggling tube and a rubber arm
stuck with a needle) and even a stuffed po-
lice dog. The fake Stradivarius violin and
Museo de la Ciudad MUSEUM counterfeit bills are also entertaining. Look
(Map p58; %011-4331-9855; Defensa 219; for it in an incongruous high-rise building;
h11am-7pm) This upstairs museum was be-
ing remodeled at the time of research, but there’s no sign for the museum.
in the future you should expect exhibitions
on porteño life and history. Downstairs Museo Mitre MUSEUM
is a large annex hall showcasing changing (Map p58; %011-4394-8240; San Martín 336;
admission AR$20, Mon free; h1-5pm Mon-Fri)
exhibits, while next door is an atmospheric This museum is located in the colonial
restaurant with the Argentine art of filetea
do (artistic drawing) on its walls. house where Bartolomé Mitre – Argentina’s
first legitimate president elected under the
constitution of 1853 – resided with his fam-
Museo Etnográfico Juan B ily from 1859 to 1906. Mitre’s term ran from
Ambrosetti MUSEUM 1862 to 1868, and he spent much of it lead-
(Map p58; %011-4331-7788; www.museoetno ing the country’s armies against Paraguay.
grafico.filo.uba.ar; Moreno 350; suggested donation
AR$20; h1-7pm Tue-Fri, 3-7pm Sat & Sun) This Two courtyards, salons, an office, a billiards
small but attractive anthropological mu room and Mitre’s old bedroom are part of
seum was created by Juan B Ambros etti not this complex. Since part of the museum
58
The CenA ter,7C38#ýü#9ongr0000000000000e0000000000000s0000000000000oS0000000000000eBe&RPeatSriaroga,uRnaeycoTletae&lBmarroio Nÿ#or5tCe0Map D 98 þ#
1 Riobamba Rodríguez Peña #ý 94
Ayacucho
(p70) 38 ÿ# ú#
ÿ#
¦# Av Córdoba ¦# Suipacha
Carlos Pellegrini
Buenos Aires æ# 27 42 Callao Av 9 de Julio
ÿ# Cerrito
Viamonte
67#ú Libertad #ý 93
Talcahuano
Uruguay
Paraná
Montevideo
Plaza
See Palermo Map (p84) Lavalle
Av Callao
Tucumán TRIBUNALES #¦Tribunales
2 Lavalle Carlos
Pellegrini
25 #æ #¦
83 74 95 Uruguay¦# #ý
#ý ü# #ý #ú Plaza de la ¦# 82
Callao Corrientes 68 República 9 de
#¦ Av #ý 96 #¦
þ# 108 Julio
Paseo
Carlos Pellegrini
Av 9 de Julio
Cerrito
Libertad
Talcahuano
Uruguay
Paraná
Montevideo
Rodríguez Peña
Av Entre Ríos
Riobamba
Ayacucho
Junín
la Plaza Sarmiento
ÿ# 40
3 Bartolomé Mitre
Juan D Perón
Av de ÿ#
Sáenz #ý 87 Mayo
Peña Mayo
HRiivpaódlitaoviYarig2o8yæ#en00000000000C#¦00000000000on00000000000gr00000000000CePso00000000000loanz00000000000gar00000000000edse00000000000ol 0000000000000000000000 ÿ#37 #¦ ¦# ÿ#
¦# Av de 107 þ# Lima 45
Av 81
ü# #ý#æ 26
71
4 #ú 58 ú#
CONGRESO San José Salta Lima #û
Luis Sáenz Peña Santiago del Estero
Sarandí Virrey Cevallos Moreno 79
Rincón ¦#
Adolfo Alsina Solís
Moreno
Av Belgrano Av Entre Ríos Bernardo de Irigoyen
Av 9 de Julio
5
Venezuela
Combate de los Pozos
Sarandí México ÿ# ÿ#
Rincón 48 41
Chile
6 Independencia Independencia
¦# #¦
Av Independencia
Lima
Salta
Santiago del Estero
San José
Luis Sáenz Peña
Virrey Cevallos
Solís
Av Entre Ríos
Pasco
Estados Unidos #ú 53
Carlos Calvo
CONSTITUCIÓN
7
Humberto Primo San Juan #¦
A Av San Juan ¦# San José
¦# #¦B CD
59
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ÿ# 51 ò# 7 æ# Buenos Aires 1
ú# Viamonte ò#
San Martín Bouchard AchAavvaTlrARisvotddáenrílgouseItzalianos
Floridaÿ#49 Tourist Office Juana Manso
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Suipacha 76
Tucumán Reconquista Plaza Di4que
¦# Lavalle 69 û# Roma
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82 Diagonal Norte Maipú 22 â# Sarmiento .#
Av Leandro N Alem
¦# 25 de Mayo
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Diagonal Juan Perón
Av Julio Roca D
Av Rosales
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la R ábid aRoque Saénz Bartolomé Mitre
Esmeralda 3
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3ÿ#94ÿ#2â#¦#73Pü#7i2HeAdipvraóAPdslevietñoRMaiYvaTrayoigdouoaryvisieat7n8Kiï#ü#o#s#¦3Pk0e4rúâ##¦0000000000B¦#o0000000000Ü#lCív0000000000aa6tre00000000002dæ#r0000000000al0000000000PPMlMla0000000000aa¦#zayza0000000000yoaod0000000000LedAeCIT2Y0 PCaorlqóune 66 29
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â# Av Olga Cossettini
de â# 11
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65 Chacabuco Adolfo A1l8siâ#na .#
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û# Tacuarí æ# 13 Balcarce 59
Moreno Defensa #ú
ú# â# Plaza
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¦# Venezuela 86 ý#85
Belgrano
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34 ÿ# 92ý# México Dique 2
#ú60 ÿ#33 Chile #ú 10 #þ 103 Reserva Ecolológica
77û# ú# 63 57 ä# 84 #ý Costanera Sur
46 ÿ#
Av Independencia Plazoleta Av Alicia Moreau de Justo (Southern Entrance)
Estados Unidos Olazábal Av Ing Huergo
15 â# Azopardo D(600m)
¦# 35 ÿ# Bolívar 62 ú# 80 ü# Av Paseo Colón R Vera Peñaloza 6
105
# #þû# 75 Balcarce
106 61ú#þ# Defensa
32 ú# 54 14 æ#
Chacabuco 44
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Pri1m0o0#þ ü# 70 SAN Dique 1
104 â#24 TELMO
ÿ#43 7
Av San Juan#ú 56 17 â#â#16
See La Boca Map (p65)
EFG H
60
The Center, Congreso & San Telmo
æ Top Sights 28 Palacio del Congreso ..............................B4
1 Centro Cultural Kirchner ....................... G2 29 Puente de la Mujer ..................................H3
2 Plaza de Mayo ..........................................F3
3 Plaza Dorrego...........................................F7 Teatro Colón ..................................(see 93)
Teatro Nacional Cervantes ..........(see 94)
B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts æ Sights Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
4 Cabildo ......................................................F4 30 Academia Buenos Aires ......................... F4
5 Casa Rosada............................................ G3 31 Expanish ................................................... F2
6 Catedral Metropolitana...........................F3 32 Rayuela .....................................................E6
7 Centro Cultural Borges........................... F1
8 Colección de Arte Amalia ÿ Sleeping
Lacroze de Fortabat .............................H1 33 América del Sur ....................................... E6
9 Corbeta Uruguay .................................... G2 34 Art Factory Hostel................................... E5
10 El Zanjón de Granados............................F6 35 Bohemia Buenos Aires ........................... F6
11 Fragata Sarmiento.................................. H4 36 Circus Hostel & Hotel ............................. E7
12 Galerías Pacífico ...................................... F1 37 Estoril Premium Hostel ..........................C4
13 Manzana de las Luces.............................F4 38 Goya Hotel................................................ D1
14 Mercado de San Telmo...........................F6 39 Gran Hotel Hispano................................. E3
15 Museo Argentino del Títere....................E6 40 Hotel Lyon ................................................A3
16 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo 41 Imagine Hotel...........................................C5
Buenos Aires ........................................ G7 42 Livin' Residence....................................... A1
17 Museo de Arte Moderno de 43 Lugar Gay ................................................. F7
Buenos Aires ........................................ G7 44 Mansión Vitraux....................................... F6
18 Museo de la Ciudad .................................F4 45 Milhouse Youth Hostel............................D4
19 Museo de la Policía Federal....................F2 46 Patios de San Telmo ...............................E6
47 Portal del Sur ...........................................E4
20 Museo del Bicentenario ......................... G4 48 Sabatico Hostel .......................................C5
Museo del Patrimonio ...................(see 27) 49 V & S Hostel Club .....................................E1
50 Yira Yira Guesthouse .............................. C1
21 Museo Etnográfico Juan B
Ambrosetti.............................................F4 ú Eating
51 180 Burger Bar .........................................E1
22 Museo Mitre..............................................F2 52 Aldo's Vinoteca........................................ F4
23 Museo Mundial del Tango.......................E3 53 Aramburu .................................................D7
24 Museo Penitenciario................................F7 54 Bar El Federal........................................... F6
25 Obelisco ................................................... D2
26 Palacio Barolo ......................................... C4
27 Palacio de las Aguas Corrientes ............ A1
is open air, you may find it closed during been converted into ritzy lofts, business of-
heavy rain. fices and upscale restaurants. Today this
neighborhood holds some of BA’s most ex-
Museo Mundial del Tango MUSEUM pensive real estate.
(Map p58; %011-4345-6967; Av de Mayo 833, In the mid-19th century the city’s mudflats
1st fl; admission AR$20; h2:30-7:30pm Mon-Fri) were transformed into a modernized port
Located below the Academia Nacional del for Argentina’s burgeoning international
Tango is this tango museum. Just a couple of commerce. Puerto Madero was completed
large rooms are filled with tango memora- in 1898, but it had exceeded its budget – and
bilia, from old records and photos to historic by 1910 the amount of cargo was already too
literature and posters. Tango shoes are also great for the new port. Only the 1926 com-
featured, but the highlight has to be one of pletion of Retiro’s Puerto Nuevo solved BA’s
Carlos Gardel’s famous fedora hats. Another shipping problems.
entrance is at Rivadavia 830.
Reserva Ecológica
1 Puerto Madero Costanera Sur NATURE RESERVE
The newest and least conventional of the (%011-4893-1588; Av Tristán Achaval Rodríguez
capital’s 48 official barrios is Puerto Mad ero, 1550; h8am-7pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar, to 6pm Apr-
located east of the Microcentro. Once an Oct) F The beautifully marshy land of
old waterfront, it’s now a wonderful place this 350-hectare nature reserve has become
to stroll, boasting cobbled paths and a long a popular site for weekend picnics and
line of attractive brick warehouses that have walks. Bring binoculars if you’re a birder –
over 300 bird species can be spotted, along
61
55 Broccolino................................................. E1 81 Ávila Bar....................................................C4 B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts
56 Café San Juan ..........................................F7 Café de los Angelitos .....................(see 71)
57 Café San Juan La Cantina.......................F6 Café Tortoni ................................... (see 72)
58 Chan Chan ............................................... C4 Centro Cultural Kirchner.................(see 1)
59 Chila.......................................................... H4
60 Chochán....................................................E5 82 Confitería Ideal ........................................D2
61 El Banco Rojo ...........................................F6 83 El Beso ......................................................A2
62 El Desnivel.................................................F6 84 El Viejo Almacén ......................................G6
63 Gran Parrilla del Plata .............................F6 85 La Trastienda ...........................................G5
86 La Ventana ............................................... F5
Granix ............................................. (see 90) 87 Los 36 Billares .........................................D4
64 i Central Market ...................................... H2 88 Luna Park .................................................G2
65 Latino Sandwich ......................................E4 89 Notorious.................................................. A1
66 Le Grill ...................................................... G3 90 Piazzolla Tango........................................ F3
67 Parrilla Peña .............................................B1 91 Rojo Tango ...............................................H5
68 Pizzería Güerrín ...................................... C2 92 Tango Queer ............................................ F5
93 Teatro Colón ............................................ D1
Vita.................................................. (see 30) 94 Teatro Nacional Cervantes .................... D1
û Drinking & Nightlife 95 Teatro Presidente Alvear .......................B2
96 Teatro San Martín ...................................C2
69 Bahrein......................................................F2 97 Todo Mundo............................................. F7
70 Bar Plaza Dorrego....................................F7 þ Shopping
71 Café de los Angelitos.............................. A4 98 Arte y Esperanza ..................................... D1
72 Café Tortoni..............................................E3 99 Arte y Esperanza .....................................G4
73 Clásica y Moderna ................................... A1 100 Cualquier Verdura ................................... F7
101 Feria de San Telmo ................................. F7
Coffee Town ................................... (see 14) 102 Gil Antiguedades ..................................... F7
74 El Gato Negro .......................................... B2 103 Materia Urbana........................................ F6
75 Gibraltar ....................................................F6 104 Punto Sur.................................................. F7
76 La Cigale.................................................... F1 105 Vinotango ................................................. F6
77 La Puerta Roja..........................................E6 106 Walrus Books........................................... F6
78 London City ..............................................F3 107 Wildlife ......................................................D4
79 Palacio Alsina .......................................... D4 108 Zival's ........................................................B3
80 Pride Cafe ................................................ G6
ý Entertainment
Academia Nacional del
Tango............................................(see 23)
with river turtles, iguanas and nutria. Fur- galleries devoted to Antonio Berni and Raúl
ther in at the eastern shoreline of the reserve Soldi (both famous Argentine painters) and
you can get a close-up view of the Río de la works by international stars like Dalí, Klimt,
Plata’s muddy waters. On warm weekends Rodin and Chagall; look for Warhol’s color-
and holidays you can rent bikes just outside ful take on Fortabat herself in the family
either the northern (Map p58) or south- portrait gallery. Call ahead for group tours
ern entrances. in English.
Tours are given on weekends; monthly Fragata Sarmiento MUSEUM
Friday night full-moon tours are also avail-
able (call for schedules). (Map p58; %011-4334-9386; Dique 3; admis-
sion AR$5; h10am-7pm) Over 23,000 Argen-
tine naval cadets and officers have trained
Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze aboard this 85m sailing vessel, which trav-
de Fortabat MUSEUM
(Museo Fortabat; Map p58; %011-4310-6600; eled around the world 37 times between
www.coleccionfortabat.org.ar; Olga Cossettini 141; 1899 and 1938. Onboard are detailed re-
admission AR$60; hnoon-8pm Tue-Sun, tours in cords of its lengthy voyages, a gallery of
Spanish 3pm & 5pm Tue-Sun) Rivaling Palermo’s its commanding officers, plenty of nautical
Malba for cutting-edge looks is this stunning items including old uniforms, and even the
art museum, prominently located at the stuffed remains of Lampazo (the ship’s pet
northern end of Puerto Madero. It shows off dog), serenely posed. Peek into the ship’s
the collection of billionairess, philanthropist holds, galley and engine room and note
and socialite Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, the hooks where sleeping hammocks were
Argentina’s wealthiest woman. There are strung up.
62
Corbeta Uruguay MUSEUM wowed ever since. Worthwhile backstage
(Map p58; %011-4314-1090; Dique 4; admission tours run frequently.
AR$5; h10am-7pm) This 46m-long military
ship did surveys along Argentina’s coast Palacio del Congreso BUILDING
and supplied bases in Antarctica until it was
decommissioned in 1926, after 52 years of (Congress Building; Map p58; Hipólito Yrigo
service. Displayed below the main deck are yen 1849) Colossal and topped with a green
interesting relics from Antarctica expedi dome, the Palacio del Congreso cost more
tions, such as crampons and snowshoes, than twice its projected budget and set
B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts along with historical photos and nautical a precedent for contemporary Argentine
items. Check out the tiny kitchen, complete public-works projects. It was modeled on
with mate (tea-like beverage) supplies (of the Capitol Building in Washington, DC, and
course). was completed in 1906. Across the way, the
Monumento a los Dos Congresos honors
the congresses of 1810 in BA and 1816 in
BRIDGE Tucumán, both of which led to Argentine
Puente de la Mujer
(Women’s Bridge; Map p58; Dique 3) The strik- independence.
ing Puente de la Mujer is Puerto Madero’s Senate tours are given at 12:30pm and
signature monument. Unveiled in 2001, this 5pm on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and
gleaming-white structure spans Dique 3 and Friday in English and Spanish; Chamber of
resembles a sharp fishhook or even a harp – Deputies tours are given at 11am, 1pm, 3pm
it’s supposed to represent a couple dancing and 5pm. Go to the entrance on Hipólito Yri-
the tango. Designed by acclaimed Spanish goyen and bring photo ID. All tours are free.
architect Santiago Calatrava and mostly
built in Spain, this 160m-long pedestrian Palacio Barolo BUILDING
bridge cost AR$6 million and rotates 90 de-
grees to allow water traffic to pass. (Map p58; %011-4381-1885; www.palaciobarolo
tours.com; Av de Mayo 1370; tours 45min AR$175,
1½hr AR$340) One of the Congreso area’s
most striking buildings is this 22-story con-
1 Congreso crete edifice. The building’s unique design
Congreso is an interesting mix of old-time was inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy; its
cinemas and theaters, bustling commerce height (100m) is a reference to each canto
and hard-core politics. The buildings still (or song), the number of its floors (22) to
hold that European aura, but there’s more verses per song, and its divided structure
grittiness here than in the Microcentro: it has to hell, purgatory and heaven. Finished in
a more local city feel, with an atmosphere of 1923, Palacio Barolo was BA’s highest sky-
faded elegance and fewer fancy crowds. scraper until the construction of Edificio
Separating Congreso from the Micro- Kavanagh in Retiro. At the top is a light-
centro is Av 9 de Julio, ‘the widest street house with an amazing 360-degree view of
in the world!,’ as proud porteños love to the city.
boast. While this may be true – it’s 16 lanes The only way to see Palacio Barolo is via
at its widest – the nearby side streets Cer- tours; check ahead for times as they vary by
rito and Carlos Pellegrini make it look even the day.
broader.
Teatro Nacional Cervantes BUILDING
Teatro Colón BUILDING (Map p58; %011-4815-8883; www.teatrocervan
(Map p58; %011-4378-7127; www.teatrocolon. tes.gov.ar; Libertad 815) Six blocks southwest
org.ar; Tucumán 1171; tours AR$180; htours 9am- of Plaza San Martín is the lavishly orna-
5pm) This gorgeous and impressive seven- mented Cervantes theater. From the grand
story building is one of BA’s most prominent tiled lobby to the main theater, you can
landmarks. It’s the city’s main performing- smell the long history of this place. The
arts venue and the only facility of its kind in Cervantes is definitely showing its age,
the country, a world-class forum for opera, with worn carpeting and rough edges, but
ballet and classical music with astounding improvement projects are planned. Until
acoustics. Occupying an entire city block, then, enjoy the faded elegance with a tour
the Colón can seat 2500 spectators and (call for current schedules). It presents
provide standing room for another 500. theater, comedy, musicals and dance.
The theater’s opening night was a presenta-
tion of Verdi’s Aïda, and visitors have been
63
Palacio de las Aguas 1 San Telmo
Corrientes BUILDING, MUSEUM Full of charm and personality, San Telmo is
one of BA’s most attractive and historically
(Map p58; cnr Av Córdoba & Riobamba) F rich barrios. Narrow cobbled streets and
Swedish engineer Karl Nyströmer and Nor- low-story colonial housing retain an old-
wegian architect Olaf Boye helped create time feel, though the tourist dollar contin-
this gorgeous and eclectic waterworks build- ues to bring about changes.
ing. On the 2nd floor is the small and quirky
Museo del Patrimonio (Map p58; %011- Historically, San Telmo is famous for the B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts
6319-1104; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri, tours in Spanish violent street fighting that took place when
11am Mon, Wed & Fri) F. The collection of British troops, at war with Spain, invaded
pretty tiles, faucets, handles, ceramic pipe the city in 1806. British forces advanced up
joints and plenty of old toilets and bidets narrow Defensa, but an impromptu militia
is well lit and displayed. Guided visits offer drove the British back to their ships. The vic-
a backstage glimpse of the building’s inner tory gave porteños confidence in their abil-
workings and huge water tanks. Bring photo ity to stand apart from Spain, even though
ID and enter via Riobamba. the city’s independence had to wait another
three years.
Obelisco LANDMARK
After this San Telmo became a fashion-
(Map p58; cnr Avs 9 de Julio & Corrientes) The able, classy neighborhood. In the late 19th
city’s unmistakable landmark is the famous century, however, a yellow-fever epidemic
Obelisco, which soars 67m above the oval hit, driving the rich north into present-day
Plaza de la República and was dedicated in Recoleta. Many older mansions were subdi-
1936, on the 400th anniversary of the first vided and became conventillos (tenements)
Spanish settlement on the Río de la Plata. to house poor families. Years ago these con
Following major soccer victories, boisterous ventillos attracted artists and bohemians
fans circle the Obelisco in jubilant, honking looking for cheap rent, but these days they’re
celebration. more likely to be filled with fancy shops.
BUENOS AIRES FOR FREE
Buenos Aires has a surprising range of free things to do. Many cultural centers offer free
or inexpensive events, and some museums have free or half-off days. Search www.bue.
gob.ar for upcoming festivals and events.
Centro Cultural Kirchner (p57) Has mostly free activities and concerts (check its
website), though you may have to reserve ahead.
Usina del Arte (p105) Offers several free concerts per week covering a wide range of
genres.
BA Free Tour (%15-6395-3000; www.bafreetour.com; donation recommended) Actually a
‘donation’ group tour, but you can contribute only if you want to.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (p71) World-class, classical art museum that’s
worth a visit.
Reserva Ecológical Costanera Sur (p60) Marshy green space next to, but a
world away from, downtown BA.
Ferias Artesanales Usually held on weekends, these street markets are mostly craft
stalls, but there’s often ‘donation’ entertainment as well (including tango shows at Feria
de San Telmo, p108).
Polo tournaments The Palermo Open’s qualifying matches, held from September to
mid-October at Palermo’s Campo Argentino de Polo, are free to attend.
Tango lessons Head to the bandstand at the Barrancas de Belgrano (p73), a grassy
park in Belgrano, at 7pm from Friday to Sunday in summer. A milonga (dance event)
follows. Cultural centers sometimes offer free tango classes too.
64
oPlaza Dorrego PLAZA Museo Penitenciario MUSEUM
(Map p58) After Plaza de Mayo, Plaza (Map p58; %011-4361-0917; Humberto Primo
378; h2-6pm Thu, Fri & Sun) F Dating from
Dorrego is the city’s oldest plaza. It dates 1760, this building was a convent and later
to the 18th century and was originally a pit
stop for caravans bringing supplies into BA a women’s prison before it became a penal
museum in 1980; reconstructed old jail cells
from around Argentina. At the turn of the give an idea of the prisoners’ conditions.
19th century it became a public square sur-
B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts rounded by colonial buildings that survive Don’t miss the homemade playing cards
and shivs, plus the tennis balls used to hide
to this day. There’s still a wonderful old-time drugs.
atmosphere here and cafe-restaurants that
will definitely take you back in time – if you
can ignore the nearby chain coffee shops. Museo Histórico Nacional MUSEUM
Plaza Dorrego is the heart of San Telmo’s (Map p65; %011-4307-1182; Defensa 1600;
h11am-6pm Wed-Sun) F Located in Parque
famous Sunday feria (street market). Lezama is the city’s national historical mu-
El Zanjón de Granados ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE seum. It’s dedicated to Argentina’s revolu-
(Map p58; %011-4361-3002; www.elzanjon. tion on May 25, 1810, though it covers a bit
com.ar; Defensa 755; tours 1hr Mon-Fri AR$170, of precolonial times too. There are several
40min Sun AR$150; htours noon, 2pm & 3pm Mon- portraits of presidents and other major fig-
Fri, every 20min 11am-6pm Sun) One of the more ures of the time, along with a beautifully
unique places in BA is this amazing urban lit generals’ room. Peek into the re-created
architectural site. A series of old tunnels, version of José de San Martín’s bedroom – he
sewers and cisterns (built from 1730 on- was a military hero and liberator of Argen
wards) were constructed above a river trib- tina (along with other South American
utary and provided the base for one of BA’s countries).
oldest settlements, which later became a
family mansion and then tenement housing Mercado de San Telmo MARKET
and some shops. It’s best to reserve ahead
for tours. (Map p58; btwn Defensa & Bolívar, Carlos Calvo
& Estados Unidos block; h9am-8pm) This mar-
ket was built in 1897 by Juan Antonio Bus-
chiazzo, the same Italian-born Argentine
Museo de Arte Moderno de architect who designed Cementerio de la
Recoleta. It occupies the inside of an entire
Buenos Aires MUSEUM city block, though you wouldn’t be able to
tell just by looking at the modest sidewalk
(MAMBA; Map p58; %0 1 1- 4300-9139; www. entrances. The wrought-iron interior (note
museodeartemoderno.buenosaires.gob.ar; Av San the amazing original ceiling) makes it one of
Juan 350; admission AR$20, Tue free; h11am-7pm BA’s most atmospheric markets; locals shop
Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun) Housed in a recycled here for fresh produce and meat. Peripheral
tobacco warehouse, this spacious, multi antique stalls offer old treasures.
story museum shows off the works of (most-
ly) Argentine contemporary artists. Expect If you like coffee, look for the Coffee
exhibitions showcasing everything from Town (Map p58; %011-4361-0019; www.coffee
photography to industrial design, and from townargentina.com; Bolivar 976, inside Mercado de
figurative to conceptual art. There’s also an San Telmo; h10am-8pm) kiosk.
auditorium and gift shop.
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
Buenos Aires MUSEUM 1 La Boca
(MACBA; Map p58; %011-5299-2010; www. Blue collar and raffish to the core, La Boca
macba.com.ar; Av San Juan 328; admission AR$50; is very much a locals’ neighborhood. In the
hnoon-7pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 11am-7:30pm Sat & mid-19th century La Boca became home to
Sun) Art lovers shouldn’t miss this fine mu- Spanish and Italian immigrants who set-
seum, which specializes in geometric ab- tled along the Riachuelo, the sinuous river
straction drawn from the technology-driven that divides the city from the surrounding
world that surrounds us today (think archi- province of Buenos Aires. Many came dur-
tecture, maps and computers). So rather ing the booming 1880s and ended up work-
than traditional paintings, you’ll see large, ing in the many meat-packing plants and
colorful and minimalist pieces meant to in- warehouses here, processing and shipping
spire reflection. out much of Argentina’s vital beef exports.
65
La Boca e#e# 00 400 m
ABCD 0.2 miles
Dique 1
PUERTO
SAN TELMO See The Center, Congreso MADERO
þ#11 & San Telmo Map (p58)
Azopardo Av Brasil Reserva Ecológica
Juan de Av Paseo ColónGaray Costanera Sur 1
1 Av û#9 Balcarce Benito Correa
Av Brasil Defensa B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts
FinAovchCBÿ#iS7eaWrtusAtaoáAePernrrizin#úsdneo8aGctzzssóreuóaebsanTnEullâ#aoexloogmpLP6uVdieáanaiezrsloylalqazLmVufaiaaebalñleeerOtSilaAuváraárreorzzíadeALv aAmlm4aiEâ#rd#æal nrCit5NdaeemBciorn#æo2cMiwhtoenudQaseue3LLioâ#AnaqdBBueOoeâ#BDCPclaoeiaAnn1MlzVMlBiPónaWuRieneasseCoetdlnrrAacntoArtbhaivocABítoraenrDrdodttisinooseeelatnsóMoPbuVDAueeuAniádnnlrlBrlros1redasseo0arfeadaoaaanfSdzseý#fñsenaAaeeulecOdrVcSfáMláfoáouslaorooasenerrelznrvlnAzesntadstvdoieroiedodruluLleíRaeararrinirmaiseesectddathdsadsureildo
2 Bolívar Pi y Margall dBleaSneeptsiembre 2
3 3
4 Av MUasrtpianlleGtaarcía 20 za Autopista La Plata–Buenos Aires 4
M Puente Nico
Juan
Melchor Martín Rodríguez
ADLPeZlaoVlolaeslzleziIberlucea PráPcótliiczoa
Gaspar Irala
Ruy
Irala Hernandarias
Diaz Av Patricios
de Azara
Guzmán Av
ABCD
La Boca ú Eating
8 Hierbabuena ............................................A2
æ Top Sights Proa Cafe.......................................... (see 3)
1 Museo de Bellas Artes de La Boca
Benito Quinquela Martín..................... C4
æ Sights û Drinking & Nightlife
2 El Caminito............................................... B4 9 Doppelgänger .......................................... A1
3 Fundación Proa....................................... C4
4 La Bombonera Stadium......................... B3 ý Entertainment
5 Museo de la Pasión Boquense.............. B4 10 Usina del Arte...........................................D2
6 Museo Histórico Nacional ..................... A2
þ Shopping
ÿ Sleeping 11 Moebius .................................................... A1
7 Mundo Bolívar ......................................... A2
After sprucing up the shipping barges, the color also comes from the rainbow slick of
port dwellers splashed leftover paint on industrial waste on the river.
the corrugated-metal sidings of their own
houses – unwittingly giving La Boca what El Caminito (Map p65; Av Don Pedro
would become one of its claims to fame. de Mendoza, near Del Valle Iberlucea), near the
Unfortunately, some of the neighborhood’s southern edge of La Boca, is the barrio’s
most famous street – and has a reputation
66 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Going to a Fútbol
Game
In a land where Maradona is God, going TEAMS
to see a fútbol (soccer) game can be a
religious experience. The superclásico Buenos Aires has two dozen professional
between the Boca Juniors and River Plate football teams – the most of any city in the
has been called the number one sporting world. Here are some of them:
event to see before you die, but even the Boca Juniors (%011-5777-1200; www.
less-celebrated games will give you insight bocajuniors.com.ar)
into Argentina’s national passion. River Plate (%011-4789-1200; www.cariv-
erplate.com.ar)
Attending a regular match isn’t too Racing (%011-4371-9995; www.racing
difficult. Keep an eye on the clubs’ club.com)
websites, which inform when and where Independiente (%011-4229-7600; www.
tickets will be sold; often they’re sold at clubaindependiente.com/en)
the stadium before the game. You’ll get
a choice between populares (bleachers) San Lorenzo de Almagro
and plateas (seats). Try to avoid the (%011-4016-2600; www.sanlorenzo.
populares; these can get really rowdy and com.ar)
can sometimes be dangerous.
If you want to see a clásico – a match
between two major teams – getting a
ticket is much harder. Boca doesn’t even
put tickets for its key matches on sale; all
tickets go to socios (members). Instead,
you’re better off going with an agency
such as Tangol or via organizations like
www.fcbafa.com or www.landingpadba.
com. It won’t be cheap, but it’s much
easier getting a ticket this way (and safer,
with less chance of fake tickets).
However, if you do want to chance
getting your own clásico or superclásico
ticket, you can always look online at
www.buenosaires.craigslist.org or www.
mercadolibre.com.ar. If you’re confident in
your bargaining skills, scalpers exist, too.
Dress down, and try to look inconspicuous
when you go. Take minimal cash and keep
your camera close. You probably won’t get
in with water bottles, and food and drink
in the stadium is meager and expensive.
Arrive early to enjoy the insane build-up to
the game. Most importantly – don’t wear the
opposing team’s colors.
Clockwise from top left
1. River Plate supporters 2. Boca Juniors player
3. La Bombonera Stadium
67 AMILCAR ORFALI/STR/GETTY IMAGES © SUNSINGER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
CHRIS BRUNSKILL LTD/GETTY IMAGES ©
68 tions as recurring themes, and painted with
broad, rough brush strokes and dark colors.
BOCA WARNING There are outdoor sculptures on the rooftop
terraces, and the top tier has awesome views
La Boca is a locals’ neighborhood, and of the port.
while kids and older folks safely walk
the streets every day, visitors can stand Museo de la Pasión Boquense MUSEUM
out away from the touristy sights. It’s
B u e n os Ai re s S ig h tsbest if you don’t stray too far from the (Map p65; %011-4362-1100; www.museobo
riverside walk, El Caminito or La Bom- quense.com; Brandsen 805; admission AR$115-130;
bonera Stadium, especially while toting h10am-6pm) High-tech and spiffy, this fút
expensive cameras. And certainly don’t bol (soccer) museum chronicles the rough-
cross the bridge over the Riachuelo. and-tumble neighborhood of La Boca, La
Buses 29, 64 and 152 go from Palermo Bombonera Stadium, soccer idols’ histories,
or the city center to La Boca. Taxis are video highlights, the championships, the
best after dark. trophies and, of course, the gooooals. There’s
a 360-degree theater in a giant soccer-ball
Some companies offer Boca day auditorium, an old jersey collection and a
tours, which are a good way to see this gift shop. The museum is right under the
neighborhood. Check out www.ba stadium, a couple of blocks from the tourist
culturalconcierge.com and www.anda part of El Caminito; get a tour of the pitch
travel.com.
for a few extra pesos.
for being a tourist trap. Here, busloads of 1 Retiro
camera-laden tourists browse the small
crafts fair, watch tango dancers perform for Well-located Retiro is one of the ritziest
spare change and are prepositioned by touts neighborhoods in BA, but it hasn’t always
to pose for photographs alongside tango been this way. The area was the site of a
props. A riverside pedestrian walkway offers monastery during the 17th century and
a close-up sniff of the Riachuelo, while a few later became the retiro (country retreat)
museums provide mental stimulation. of Agustín de Robles, a Spanish gover-
nor. Since then, Retiro’s current Plaza San
Fundación Proa MUSEUM Martín – which sits on a bluff – has played
host to a slave market, a military fort and
(Map p65; %011-4104-1000; www.proa.org; Av even a bullring. Things are more quiet and
Don Pedro de Mendoza 1929; admission AR$40; exclusive these days.
h11am-7pm Tue-Sun) Only the most cutting-
edge national and international artists are
invited to show at this elegant art museum, Plaza San Martín
PLAZA
which features high ceilings, white walls (Map p70) French landscape architect
and large display halls. Stunning contem- Carlos Thays designed the leafy Plaza San
porary installations utilize a wide variety of Martín, which is surrounded by some of
media and themes, while the rooftop terrace Buenos Aires’ most impressive public build-
is the stylish place in La Boca for relaxing ings. The park’s most prominent monument
with a drink or a snack – it boasts a view is the obligatory equestrian statue of José
of the Riachuelo. Plenty of cultural offerings de San Martín; important visiting digni-
include talks, lectures, workshops, music taries often come to honor the country’s
concerts and cinema screenings. liberator by leaving wreaths at its base. On
oMuseo de Bellas Artes de the downhill side of the park you’ll see the
Monumento a los Caídos de Malvinas
La Boca Benito Quinquela Martín MUSEUM (Map p70), a memorial to the young men
(Map p65; %011-4301-1080; www.museoquin who died in the Falklands War.
quela.gov.ar; Av Don Pedro de Mendoza 1835;
suggested donation AR$20; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, Palacio Paz
BUILDING
11:15am-6pm Sat & Sun) Once the home and (Círculo Militar; Map p70; %ext 147, 011-4311-
studio of surrealist painter Benito Quinq uela 1071; www.palaciopaz.com.ar; Av Santa Fe 750;
Martín (1890–1977), this fine-arts museum tours in English/Spanish AR$100/70; htours
exhibits his works and those of other classic English 3:30pm Thu, Spanish 3pm Tue, 11am & 3pm
Argentine artists. Martín used silhouettes of Wed-Fri) Once the private residence of José
laboring men, smokestacks and water reflec- C Paz – founder of the still-running news
69
paper La Prensa – this opulent, French-style 1 Recoleta & Barrio Norte B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts
palace (1909) is the grandest in BA. Inside
its 12,000 sq meters are ornate rooms with BA’s wealthiest citizens live and breathe in
marble walls, salons gilded in real gold and Recoleta, the city’s most exclusive and fash-
halls boasting beautiful wood-tiled floors. ionable neighborhood. In the 1870s many
The pièce de résistance is the circular grand upper-class porteños relocated here from
hall with mosaic floors, marble details and San Telmo during a yellow-fever epidemic.
stained-glass cupola. Nearly all materials Today you can best see the wealth of this
came from Europe and were then assem- sumptuous quarter on Av Alvear, where
bled here. many of the old mansions (and newer inter-
national boutiques) are located.
Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano
With parks, museums and French ar-
Isaac Fernández Blanco MUSEUM chitecture, Recoleta is best known for its
Cementerio de la Recoleta. On weeke nds, the
(Palacio Noel; Map p70; %011-4327-0228; www. Plaza Intendente Alvear hosts a popular
museofernandezblanco.buenosaires.gob.ar; Sui- crafts fair. A little further north is the 20m-
pacha 1422; admission AR$10, Wed free; h1-7pm high sculptural flower Floralis Genérica,
Tue-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat & Sun) Dating from 1921, whose giant metal petals ‘close up’ at night.
this museum is in an old mansion of the
neocolonial Peruvian style that developed Barrio Norte is a subneighborhood south-
as a reaction against French influences in west of Recoleta, but the lines are blurred.
turn-of-the-19th-century Argentine archi
tecture. Its exceptional collection of co- oCementerio de la Recoleta CEMETERY
lonial art includes silverwork from Alto
Perú (present-day Bolivia), religious paint- (Map p70; %0800-444-2363; cnr Junín & Guido;
ings and baroque instruments (including AR$100; h7am-5:30pm) This cemetery is
a Guarneri violin). The curved ceiling in arguably BA’s number-one attraction, and a
the main salon is beautifully painted, and must on every tourist’s list. You can wander
there’s also a peaceful garden. for hours in this amazing city of the dead,
where countless ‘streets’ are lined with im-
Museo de Armas MUSEUM pressive statues and marble mausoleums.
Peek into the crypts and check out the dusty
(Weapons Museum; Map p70; %ext 179, 011- coffins and try to decipher the history of its
4311-1071; www.museodearmas.com.ar; Av Santa inhabitants. Past presidents, military heroes,
Fe 702; admission AR$40; h1-7pm Mon-Fri) Even influential politicians and the just plain rich
if you’ve spent time in the armed forces, you and famous have made it past the gates here.
probably have never seen so many weapons
of destruction. This maze-like museum ex-
hibits a frighteningly large but excellent Basílica de Nuestra Señora
collection of over 3500 bazookas, grenade del Pilar CHURCH
launchers, cannons, machine guns, mus- (Map p70; %011-4806-2209; www.basilicadelpilar.
org.ar; Junín 1904; museum AR$6; hmuseum
kets, pistols, armor, lances and swords; even 10:30am-6:10pm Mon-Sat, 2:30pm-6:10pm Sun)
the gas mask for a combat horse is on dis-
play. The evolution of rifles and handguns
is especially thoroughly documented, and
there’s a small but impressive Japanese EVITA’S GRAVE
weapons room.
She’s Recoleta’s biggest star, and
Torre Monumental LANDMARK everyone who visits Cemeterio de la
Recoleta wants to see her final resting
(Map p70; %011-4311-0186; Plaza Fuerza Aérea place. Here’s how to find it: go up to the
Argentina; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 6:30pm Sat first major ‘intersection’ from the en-
& Sun) F Standing prominently across trance, where there’s a statue. Turn left
from Plaza San Martín, this 76m-high 90 degrees, continue until a mausoleum
miniature version of London’s Big Ben was blocks your way, go around it to the
a donation from the city’s British communi- right and turn right at the wide ‘street.’
ty in 1916 and built with materials shipped After three blocks look to the left and
over from England. You can enter inside the you’ll likely see people at her site, along
base of the tower, where there are a few his- with bunches of flowers. Don’t expect
torical photos, but folks aren’t allowed up anything grandiose; it’s a pretty modest
the elevator. mausoleum.
B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts 70
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71
Retiro, Recoleta & Barrio Norte
æ Top Sights 17 Poetry Building ........................................A3 B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts
1 Cementerio de la Recoleta .................... B2 ú Eating
2 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes............B1
18 Como en Casa..........................................B3
æ Sights 19 Cumaná ....................................................B4
3 Basílica de Nuestra Señora del 20 Dadá ..........................................................E4
Pilar........................................................ B2 21 El Sanjuanino ...........................................C2
4 Monumento a los Caidos de 22 Elena..........................................................D2
Malvinas .................................................E3 23 Filo .............................................................E4
5 Museo de Armas......................................E4 24 Rodi Bar ....................................................B2
6 Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano û Drinking & Nightlife
Isaac Fernández Blanco...................... D2 25 BASA Basement Bar...............................E3
7 Museo Participativo de Ciencias .......... B2 26 Casa Bar ...................................................B4
8 Palacio Paz .............................................. D4 27 Florería Atlántico.....................................D3
9 Plaza San Martín......................................E3 28 Flux ............................................................D4
10 Torre Monumental...................................E3 29 Gran Bar Danzón .....................................C3
30 La Biela .....................................................B2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 31 Milión.........................................................C4
11 VOS........................................................... C4
Pony Line Bar................................. (see 22)
ÿ Sleeping 32 Shamrock Basement..............................B3
12 Alvear Palace Hotel ................................ C2 þ Shopping
13 Art Suites ................................................. A3 33 Autoría ......................................................D4
14 Casa Calma.............................................. D4 34 El Ateneo ..................................................B4
15 Hotel Lion D'or ........................................ A2 35 Feria Artesanal.........................................B2
16 Hotel Tres Sargentos ..............................F4
The centerpiece of this gleaming white co- Borges. This museum (located in his old
lonial church, built by Jesuits in 1716, is a mansion) showcases over 80 of his unique
Peruvian altar adorned with silver from Ar- and colorful yet subdued paintings. So-
gentina’s northwest. Inside, head to the left lar’s Klee-esque style includes fantastically
to visit the small but historic cloisters mu themed, almost cartoonish figures placed
seum; it’s home to religious vestments, paint- in surreal cubist landscapes. It’s great stuff,
ings, writings and interesting artifacts, and and bizarre enough to put him in a class of
there are good views of Recoleta cemetery. his own.
oMuseo Nacional de 1 Palermo
Bellas Artes MUSEUM Palermo is heaven on Earth for BA’s middle
class. Its large, grassy parks – regally
(Map p70; %011-5288-9900; www.mnba.gob. punctuated with grand monuments – are
ar; Av del Libertador 1473; h12:30-8:30pm Tue- popular destinations on weekends, when
Fri, 9:30am-8:30pm Sat & Sun) F This is families fill the shady lanes, cycle the bike
Argentina’s most important national arts paths and paddle on the peaceful lakes.
museum and contains many key works by Many important museums and elegant em-
Benito Quinquela Martín, Xul Solar, Ed- bassies are also located here, and certain
wardo Sívori and other Argentine artists subneighborhoods of Palermo have become
of the 19th and 20th centuries. There are the city’s hottest destinations for shopping
also impressive international works by and nightlife.
European masters such as Cézanne, Degas,
Picasso, Rembrandt, Toulouse-Lautrec and Palermo’s green spaces haven’t always
Van Gogh. Everything is well displayed, and been for the masses. The area around
there’s also a cinema, concerts and classes. Parque 3 de Febrero was originally the
19th-century dictator Juan Manuel de Rosas’
Museo Xul Solar MUSEUM private retreat and became public parkland
after his fall from power. Within these green
(Map p84; %011-4824-3302; www.xulsolar.org. spaces you’ll now find a zoo, a planetarium
ar; Laprida 1212; admission AR$20; hnoon-8pm and several gardens. Just south of the zoo is
Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat, closed Feb, tours in Spanish 4pm Plaza Italia, Palermo’s main transport hub.
Tue & Thu, 3:30pm Sat) Xul Solar was a paint-
er, inventor, poet and friend of Jorge Luis
B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts72
BUENOS AIRES FOR CHILDREN
Palermo’s Parque 3 de Febrero (Map p84; cnr Avs del Libertador & de la Infanta Isabel;
g10, 34, 130) is a huge park where on weekends traffic isn’t allowed on the ring road
(rent bikes, boats and in-line skates nearby). Other good stops here include a planetar-
ium, a zoo and a Japanese garden. If you’re downtown and need a nature break, there’s
Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (p60), a large nature preserve with good
bird-watching.
Shopping malls make safe destinations for families – one of the best is Mercado de
Abasto (p74), which boasts a full-blown children’s ‘museum’ (ie fancy playground)
and mini-amusement park.
In San Telmo, check out the puppet museum, Museo Argentino del Títere (Map
p58; %011-4307-6917; www.museoargdeltitere.com.ar; Estados Unidos 802; hvary widely,
call ahead) F, which has inexpensive weekend shows.
Recoleta’s Museo Participativo de Ciencias (Map p70; %011-4806-3456; www.
mpc.org.ar; Junín 1930; admission AR$65; hvary widely, check website) is a hands-on science
museum with interactive learning displays. In Caballito is the good Museo Argentino
de Ciencias Naturales (p74).
Christian parents might want to take the kids to Tierra Santa (p73), a unique and
tacky (but fun) religious theme park. Not far away is Parque Norte (p75), a large
water park that’s perfect on a hot day.
Tigre, north of the city, makes a great day excursion. Get there via the Tren de la Cos-
ta; it ends right at Parque de la Costa (%011-4002-6000; www.parquedelacosta.com.ar;
Vivanco 1509; admission from AR$150), a typical amusement park with fun rides.
Outside the city is the exceptional zoo, Parque Temaikén (%034-8843-6900; www.
temaiken.org.ar; RP25, Km1, Escobar; adult/child AR$245/200; h10am-7pm Wed-Sun Dec-Feb,
to 6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Nov). Only the most charming animal species are on display (think
meerkats, pygmy hippos and white tigers), roaming freely around natural enclosures. An
excellent aquarium comes with touch pools, and plenty of interactive areas provide men-
tal stimulation. Some Tuesdays are discounted.
To help calm down temper tantrums, visit one of BA’s dozens of excellent ice-cream
shops.
One of the capital’s most trendsetting ardo Costantini displays his fine collection
areas is Palermo Viejo, a scenic neighbor- of Latin American art, which includes work
hood with colonial buildings and plenty by Argentines Xul Solar and Antonio Berni,
of fine shopping, dining and nightlife; it’s plus some pieces by Mexicans Diego Rivera
further subdivided into Palermo Soho and and Frida Kahlo. A cinema screens art-house
Palermo Hollywood. The heart of this neigh- films, and there’s a gift shop and upscale
borhood is Plaza Serrano (Map p84), a cafe as well.
small but very popular plaza surrounded
by bars and restaurants, and host to a small Museo Nacional de
weekend arts fair. Another popular but
much smaller neighborhood to the north is Arte Decorativo MUSEUM
Las Cañitas; many restaurants and other
nightspots here attract hordes of hipsters at (Map p84; %011-4802-6606; www.mnad.
night, when Av Báez clogs with traffic. org; Av del Libertador 1902; admission AR$20, Tue
free, tours AR$15; h2-7pm Tue-Sun, closed Sun
in Jan) This museum is housed in the stun-
ning beaux-arts mansion called Residencia
oMuseo de Arte Latinoamericano Errázuriz Alvear (1917), once the residence
of Chilean aristocrat Matías Errázuriz and
de Buenos Aires MUSEUM his wife, Josefina de Alvear. It now displays
(Malba; Map p84; %011-4808-6500; www. many of their very posh belongings, along
malba.org.ar; Av Figueroa Alcorta 3415; admission
AR$75, Wed AR$36; hnoon-8pm Thu-Mon, to 9pm with beautiful features such as Corinthian
Wed) Sparkling inside its glass walls, this columns and a gorgeous marble staircase
airy modern arts museum is one of BA’s fan- inspired by the Palace of Versailles. There’s
ciest. Millionaire and philanthropist Edu- also an amazing hall which has a carved
73
wooden ceiling, stained-glass panels and a the ‘world’s first religious theme park’ – a
huge stone fireplace. There’s also a lovely very tacky place. It boasts animatronic dio-
cafe outside. ramas of Adam and Eve and the Last Sup-
per, but its pièce de résistance is a giant
Jardín Zoológico ZOO Jesus rising from a fake mountain – aka the
resurrection – every half-hour. It’s just north
(Map p84; %011-4011-9900; www.zoobuenos of Palermo, near the water.
aires.com.ar; cnr Avs General Las Heras & Sarmien-
to; adult/child AR$180/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun
Oct-Mar, to 5pm Apr-Sep) Set on 18 hectares, B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts
Centro Islámico Rey Fahd MOSQUE
Buenos Aires’ Jardín Zoológico is a decent (Map p84; %011-4899-0201; www.ccislamico
zoo, housing over 350 species – many in reyfahd.org.ar; Av Int Bullrich 55; htours noon Tue,
‘natural’ and good-sized animal enclosures. Thu & Sat) This landmark mosque, built by
On sunny weekends it’s packed with families Saudis on land donated by former president
enjoying the large green spaces and artificial Carlos Menem, is southeast of Las Cañitas.
lakes. Some of the buildings housing the an- Free tours in Spanish are offered three-times
imals are impressive; check out the elephant weekly (bring your passport, dress conserva-
house. An aquarium, a monkey island, rep- tively and enter via Av Int Bullrich).
tile house and large aviary are other high-
lights; a few special exhibits (like the sea
lion show or carousel) cost extra. 1 Belgrano
Jardín Japonés GARDENS Bustling Av Cabildo, the racing heartbeat
of Belgrano, is an overwhelming jumble
(Map p84; %011-4804-4922; www.jardinjapones. of noise and neon; it’s a two-way street of
org.ar; cnr Avs Casares & Berro; adult/child AR$50/ clothing, shoe and homeware shops that
free; h10am-6pm) First opened in 1967 and does its part to support the mass consumer-
then donated to the city of Buenos Aires in ism of porteños.
1979 (on the centenary of the arrival of Ar-
gentina’s first Japanese immigrants), Jardín Only a block east of Av Cabildo, Plaza
Japonés makes a peaceful rest stop. Inside Belgrano is the site of a modest but fun
there’s a Japanese restaurant along with weekend crafts fair.
lovely ponds filled with koi and spanned by
pretty bridges. Japanese culture can be expe- Near the plaza stands the Italianate Ig-
rienced through occasional exhibitions and lesia de la Inmaculada Concepción, a
workshops on ikebana, haiku, origami, taiko church popularly known as ‘La Redonda’
(Japanese drumming) and other events. because of its impressive dome. Four blocks
northeast of Plaza Belgrano is Barrancas de
Museo Evita MUSEUM Belgrano, an attractive park on one of the
few natural hillocks in the city. And nearby,
(Map p84; %011-4807-0306; www.museoevita. just across the train tracks, Belgrano’s small
org; Lafinur 2988; admission AR$40; h11am-7pm Chinatown offers decent Chinese restau-
Tue-Sun) Everybody who’s anybody in Argen- rants and cheap goods.
tina has their own museum, and Eva Perón Museo de Arte Español Enrique
(1919–52) is no exception. Museo Evita
immortalizes the Argentine heroine with Larreta MUSEUM
plenty of videos, historical photos, books, (%011-4784-4040; Juramento 2291; admission
AR$10; h1-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun)
old posters and newspaper headlines. How- Hispanophile novelist Enrique Larreta
ever, the prize memorabilia has to be her
wardrobe: dresses, shoes, handbags, hats (1875–1961) resided in this elegant colonial-
style house across from Plaza Belgrano,
and blouses lie proudly behind glass, for- which now displays his private art collec-
ever pressed and pristine. Even Evita’s old
wallets and perfumes are on display. Our tion to the public. It’s a grand and spacious
old building, and contains classic Spanish
favorite is a picture of her kicking a soccer art, period furniture, wood-carved religious
ball – in heels.
items, and shields and armor. The wood and
tiled floors are beautiful, and everything is
Tierra Santa THEME PARK richly lit. Tours in Spanish are given at 5pm
(%011-4784-9551; www.tierrasanta.com.ar; Av Monday to Friday, and 4pm and 6pm on
Costanera R Obligado 5790; adult/child AR$100/40;
h9am-9pm Fri, noon-8pm Sat, Sun & holidays Apr- Saturday and Sunday. Be sure to stroll the
lovely gardens out back.
Nov, 4pm-10pm Fri-Sun & holidays Dec-Mar) Even
respectful, devout Catholics will find this –
74
Espacio Memoria y Derechos The historic Mercado de Abasto (1895) has
been recycled by US-Hungarian financier
Humanos MUSEUM George Soros into one of the most beau-
tiful shopping centers in the city. The
(ESMA; %011-4702-9920; www.espaciomemoria. building, once a large vegetable market,
ar; Av del Libertador 8151, Nuñez; hnoon-5pm received an architectural prize in 1937 for
Fri-Sun) F Argentina’s Dirty War (1976– its Av Corrientes facade. It holds more
83) was the darkest chapter in its history. than 200 stores, a large cinema, a large
Human-rights groups estimate that up to food court and the only kosher McDonald’s
B u e n os Ai re s A ctivities 30,000 people were kidnapped, tortured outside Israel (the one upstairs and next to
and killed under the military dictatorship Burger King).
of Jorge Rafael Videla. Most of these atroc-
ities happened right here at this old Naval 2 Activities
campus called ESMA, described by some as
Argentina’s Auschwitz. Today these build- The extensive greenery in Palermo pro-
ings have been turned into a museum as a vides good areas for recreation, especially
memorial for the victims, and as a way to on weekends when the ring road around
help prevent such an unimaginable occur- the rose garden is closed to motor vehicles.
rence from happening again. Recoleta has grassy parks also, if you can
avoid the dog piles. Best of all is the Reserva
1 Once & Around Ecológica Costanera Sur, an ecological para-
dise just east of Puerto Madero; it’s excellent
BA’s most ethnically colorful neighborhood for walks, runs, bike rides and even a bit of
is Once, with sizable groups of Jews, Peruvi- wildlife viewing.
ans and Koreans. The cheap market around
Once train station always bustles, with ven- Cycling
dors selling their goods on sidewalks, and BA is not the greatest city for bicycles, but
crowds everywhere. there are a few exceptions. It might be best
to join a city bike tour, which includes bi-
Museo Argentino de Ciencias cycle and guide; tour companies usually
offer bike rentals too. And if you’re around
Naturales MUSEUM on the first Sunday of each month, check
out BA’s version of Critical Mass (www.
(Natural Science Museum; Map p84; %011- masacriticabsas.com.ar). For more info on
4982-6595; www.macn.gov.ar; Av Ángel Gallardo cycling around BA, see the Getting Around
490; admission AR$15; h2-7pm) Way over to section (p112).
the west, the oval Parque del Centenario
is a large open space containing this ex-
cellent natural-science museum. On dis-
play are large collections of meteorites,
rocks and minerals, seashells, insects and
dinosaur skeleton replicas. The taxidermy Horseback Riding
and skeleton rooms are especially good. Caballos a la Par HORSEBACK RIDING
Bring the kids; they can mingle with the (%011-15-5248-3592; www.caballos-alapar.com) If
you want to get out of town for a few hours
hundreds of children who visit on school and hop on a horse, forget those touristy
excursions.
estancias (ranches) and check out Caballos
a la Par. Guided rides are given in a provin-
Museo Casa Carlos Gardel MUSEUM cial park about an hour’s drive from Buenos
(Map p84; %011-4964-2071; Jean Jaurés 735; Aires. Even if you’ve never ridden before,
admission AR$5, Wed free; h11am-6pm Mon &
Wed-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) Small but note- you might be galloping by sundown.
worthy is this tribute to tango’s most famous Fútbol
voice. Located in Gardel’s old house, this Inspired by watching professional fútbol
museum traces his partnership with José teams play the game? Well, you can partake
Razzano and displays old memorabilia like yourself – just contact FC Buenos Aires
photos, records and news clippings. There Fútbol Amigos (www.fcbafa.com) to join
isn’t a whole lot to see, so it’s best for real fellow travelers, expats and locals for some
fans or just the curious; look for the cluster pickup fun. The best part might be the asa
of colorfully painted buildings. dos (barbecues) that often happen after the
games, plus of course the friends you make
Mercado de Abasto BUILDING on the pitch.
(Map p84; %011-4959-3400; www.abasto-shop
ping.com.ar; Av Corrientes 3247; h10am-10pm)
75
Swimming VOS LANGUAGE COURSE
Finding a good swimming hole isn’t easy in
BA – unless you’re lucky enough to be stay- (Map p70; %011-4812-1140; www.vosbuenos
ing at a hotel with a decent pool (or are OK aires.com; Marcelo T de Alvear 1459, Recoleta)
with splashing around indoors at the near-
est gym). Foto Ruta PHOTOGRAPHY
(%011-6030-8881; www.foto-ruta.com) This
workshop is run by two expat women who
send folks out into neighborhoods with a
Parque Norte SWIMMING few ‘themes’ to photograph – then everyone B u e n os Ai re s C ourses
(%011-4787-1382; www.parquenorte.com; Avs watches the slide show.
Cantilo & Guiraldes; admission Mon-Fri AR$80, Sat
AR$100, Sun AR$110; hpool 8:30am-8pm Mon-Fri,
to 10pm Sat & Sun) When the temperatures T Tours
and humidity skyrocket, head north to this There are plenty of organized tours, from
large water park in Belgrano. It’s great for the large tourist-bus variety to guided bike
families with huge shallow pools (perhaps rides to straight-up free (ie donation) walks.
4ft at their deepest), plus a large water slide Some travel agencies also offer tours, includ-
and lots of umbrellas and lounge chairs ing some very adventurous ones.
(both cost extra). There are plenty of grassy
areas in which to enjoy a picnic or mate Companies offer tours in English and pos-
(tea-like beverage). Bring your own towels, sibly other languages, and most have private
and make sure you’re clean – quick ‘health’ tour options too.
inspections are done to check for such un- BA Walking Tours WALKING TOUR
pleasantries as athlete’s foot or lice. (%15-5773-1001; www.ba-walking-tours.com) Day
tours, night tours, historic tours and tango
C Courses tours.
Visitors have many opportunities to study Biking Buenos Aires BICYCLE TOUR
almost anything in BA, from cooking to
tango. Most cultural centers offer a wide (%011-4300-5373; www.bikingbuenosaires.com)
variety of classes at affordable rates. Friendly American and Argentine guides
take you on various tours of Buenos Aires;
BA is a major destination for students of tour themes include architecture and
Spanish, and good institutes are common. graffiti.
Nearly all organize social activities and
homestay programs, and all have private Buenos Aires Street Art WALKING TOUR
classes. When you’re looking for an institute,
it’s always best to ask around for current (www.buenosairesstreetart.com) Walking tour
recommendations. highlighting some of BA’s most interesting
street art. Supports local artists too.
Spanglish LANGUAGE COURSE Buenos Tours WALKING TOUR
(www.spanglishexchange.com) For something (www.buenostours.com) Well-run private tours
guided by friendly, knowledgeable and re-
different, try Spanglish. It’s set up like speed sponsible local expats.
dating; you’ll speak five minutes in English
and five in Spanish, then switch partners.
Graffitimundo TOUR
Academia Buenos Aires LANGUAGE COURSE (%15-3683-3219; www.graffitimundo.com) Ex-
(Map p58; %011-4345-5954; www.academia cellent tours of some of BA’s best graffiti.
buenosaires.com; Hipólito Yrigoyen 571, 4th fl, Mi- Learn artists’ history and the local graf
crocentro) fiti culture. Several tours available; stencil
workshops too.
Expanish LANGUAGE COURSE
(Map p58; %011-5252-3040; www.expanish. Urban Biking BICYCLE TOUR
com; 25 de Mayo 457, 4th fl, Microcentro) (%011-4314-2325; www.urbanbiking.com) One-
and two-day cycling tours, along with bike
Rayuela LANGUAGE COURSE and kayak excursions to Tigre.
(Map p58; %011-4300-2010; www.spanish-argen z Festivals & Events
tina.com.ar; Chacabuco 852, 1st fl, No 11, San Telmo)
Vamos LANGUAGE COURSE Check with tourist offices for other happen-
ings and for exact dates, as some can vary
(Map p84; %011-5984-2201; www.vamospanish. from year to year.
com; Av Coronel Díaz 1736, Palermo)
76
Festival Internacional de Cine Some places will help with transportation
to and from the airport if you reserve ahead
Independiente FILM of time. The most expensive hotels will take
credit cards but cheaper places might not.
(http://festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar; hmid-Apr) Some kind of breakfast is included nearly
Highlights national and international inde- everywhere, often consisting of just a few
pendent films at venues all around Buenos medialunas (croissants) and coffee or tea –
Aires. though many fancier places offer continen-
tal or buffet breakfasts.
B u e n os Ai re s S leeping Arte BA ART
Rates at top-end hotels often vary de-
(www.arteba.org; hMay) Popular event high- pending on occupancy levels. As a general
lighting contemporary art, introducing ex- rule, calling ahead or reserving via websites
citing new young artists, and showing off usually results in better pricing. At Hostel-
top gallery works. ling International (HI) hostels, buying a
membership card gives a discount off listed
Festival y Mundial de Tango TANGO FESTIVAL prices.
(http://festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar; hmid-Aug)
Masterful tango performances, tango mov- Prices listed here are for high season
ies, classes, workshops, conferences and (roughly November to February) and in-
competitions in venues all over Buenos clude BA’s whopping 21% accommodation
Aires. tax. Rates can skyrocket during peak sea-
sons (Christmas and Easter) or drop during
Vinos y Bodegas WINE slow seasons.
(www.expovinosybodegas.com.ar; hSep) A can’t- We’ve listed prices below in US dollars (at
miss event for wine aficionados, offering the official rate) to offset Argentina’s high in-
vintages from over 100 Argentine bodegas flation rate. Many hotels quote their rates in
(wineries). US dollars and take US dollars as payment
anyway.
Noche de los Museos ART
4 Microcentro
(www.lanochedelosmuseos.gob.ar; hlate Oct)
Highly popular, one-night event where, from As well as being very central, the Micro-
8pm to 3am, hundreds of BA’s museums, centro has the widest range and the largest
cultural centers and galleries open to the number of accommodations in the city. To-
public for free exhibitions, concerts, perfor- ward the north you’ll be close to the popular
mances and other events. Major lines offer pedestrian streets of Florida and Lavalle,
free bus transport as well. as well as the neighborhoods of upmarket
Retiro and Recoleta. The Plaza de Mayo
Creamfields MUSIC area contains the bustling banking district
and many historical buildings, and is within
(www.creamfieldsba.com; hNov) BA’s answer walking distance of San Telmo. During the
to the UK’s outdoor, all-night, cutting-edge day the whole area is very busy, but nights
electronic-music and dance party, with doz- are much calmer as businesspeople flee the
ens of international DJs and bands. center after work. Don’t expect a huge range
of creative cuisine in this area – for that
Campeonato Abierto de Polo SPORTS head to Palermo.
(www.aapolo.com; hDec) Watch the world’s
best polo players and their gorgeous horses
thunder up and down Palermo’s polo fields.
4 Sleeping
Over the last decade Buenos Aires has seen Gran Hotel Hispano HOTEL $
its accommodations options increase expo- (Map p58; %011-4345-2020; www.hhispano.
nentially. Boutique hotels and guesthouses, com.ar; Av de Mayo 861; s/d US$55/72; aiW)
especially, have mushroomed in neighbor- The tiny stairway lobby here isn’t an impres-
hoods such as San Telmo and Palermo, and sive start, but upstairs there’s a sweet atrium
hostels are a dime a dozen. You shouldn’t area with covered patio. Most rooms are
have trouble finding the type of place you’re modern and carpeted; those in front are big-
looking for, but it’s still a good idea to make gest, and those on the top floor are brightest.
a reservation beforehand – especially during There’s also a pleasant outside sun terrace.
holidays or the busy summer months of No- It’s a popular, central and well-tended place,
vember through January. so reserve ahead. Pay in cash for a 10%
discount.
77
SHORT- & LONG-TERM RENTALS B u e n os Ai re s S leeping
Many travelers visiting Buenos Aires love the city so much that they want to stay longer
and find an apartment. But snagging a pad isn’t as easy as it could be: renters often
need to commit to two years and nearly always need a local’s bond to guarantee month-
ly payments – almost impossible for most foreigners.
To cater to this demand, dozens of apartment websites have popped up in recent
years. These sites charge significantly more than locals would pay, but they don’t have
those pesky requirements either. You can view pictures of rental properties, along with
prices and amenities. Usually the photos match what you will get, but not always; if you’d
like someone to check out an apartment before you rent it, Madi Lang at BA Cultural
Concierge (p109) can make sure the place isn’t on a busy street, in an outlying neigh-
borhood or near a construction site.
¨¨www.4rentargentina.com
¨¨www.apartmentsche.com
¨¨www.buenosaireshabitat.com
¨¨www.oasiscollections.com/buenosaires
¨¨www.santelmoloft.com
¨¨www.stayinbuenosaires.com
If you’re just looking for a room, check www.spareroomsba.com. Or look for longer-term
guesthouses (where rooms usually share bathrooms) at www.casalosangelitos.com and
www.lacasademarina.com.ar. Chill House Hostel (p82) has a long-term residence as
well. And there’s always the BA branch of Craigslist.
Portal del Sur HOSTEL $ V & S Hostel Club HOSTEL $
(Map p58; %011-4342-8788; www.portaldel (Map p58; %011-4322-0994; www.hostelclub.
surba.com.ar; Hipólito Yrigoyen 855; dm from com; Viamonte 887; dm from US$16, r from US$58;
US$16, s/d from US$40/50; aiW; bLínea A aiW; bLínea C Lavalle) S This attractive,
Piedras) Located in a charming old building, central and ecofriendly hostel is located in a
this is one of the city’s best hostels. Beau- pleasant older building. The common space,
tiful dorms and sumptuous, hotel-quality which is also the dining and lobby area, is
private rooms surround a central common good for socializing. The spacious dorms
area, which is rather dark but open. The are carpeted and the private rooms are ex-
highlight is the lovely rooftop deck with cellent; all have their own bathroom. A nice
views and attached bar and lounge. Free touch is the tiny outdoor patio in back.
tango and Spanish lessons, plus a walking
tour; plenty of other activities available. Goya Hotel HOTEL $$
(Map p58; %011-4322-9269; www.goyahotel.
com.ar; Suipacha 748; s US$60-70, d US$85-95;
Milhouse Youth Hostel HOSTEL $ aiW) A good midrange choice with 42
(Map p58; %011-4345-9604; www.milhouse
hostel.com; Hipólito Yrigoyen 959; dm from US$16, modern, comfortable and carpeted rooms.
s/d from US$55/60; aiW; bLínea A Av de Located on a pedestrian street, so little traf-
Mayo) BA’s premiere party hostel, this pop- fic noise. ‘Classic’ rooms are older and have
ular Hostelling International spot offers a open showers; ‘superior’ rooms are slicker
and come with bathtubs. Pleasant breakfast
plethora of activities and services. Dorms room with patio; good breakfast too.
are good and private rooms can be very
pleasant; most surround an appealing open
patio. Common spaces include a bar-cafe 4 Congreso
(with pool table) on the ground floor, a TV
lounge on the mezzanine and a rooftop Congreso contains many of the city’s older
terrace. A gorgeous annex building nearby theaters, cinemas and cultural centers. Live-
offers similar services. ly Av Corrientes has many modest shops,
services and bookstores. The Plaza del Con-
greso area is always moving, sometimes
78
with mostly peaceful public demonstrations. Livin’ Residence APARTMENT $$
Generally, this area is not quite as packed (Map p58; %011-5258-0300; www.livin
as the Microcentro and has a less business residence.com; Viamonte 1815; studio US$90, 1-
and touristy flavor, but still bustles day and bedroom apt US$109, 2-bedroom apt US$175;
night. Cutting-edge restaurants are limited. aW; bLínea D Callao) All of these studios
and one- or two-bedroom apartments have
Estoril Premium Hostel HOSTEL $ a simple, contemporary feel, with tasteful
(Map p58; %011-4382-9073; www.hostelestoril.
B u e n os Ai re s S leeping com.ar; Av de Mayo 1385, 1st & 6th fl; dm from furniture, flat-screen TVs, small kitchens
and balconies. There’s a tiny rooftop terrace
US$19, s/d from US$45/60; aiW) A great with Jacuzzi, asado and nearby gym room.
hostel located across two floors in an old
building. It’s stylish and clean, with pleas- Security is good; reserve ahead.
ant, good-sized dorms and hotel-quality 4 San Telmo
doubles. There’s a nice kitchen and internal
patio, and the awesome rooftop terrace has South of the Microcentro, San Telmo has
amazing views of Av de Mayo. The same some of the most traditional atmosphere in
family also run a cheaper hostel on the 3rd Buenos Aires. Buildings are more charming
floor. and historical than those in the center, and
tend to be only a few stories high. Many res-
Sabatico Hostel HOTEL $ taurants and fancy boutiques have opened
(Map p58; %011-4381-1138; www.sabaticohostel. here in recent years, and there are some
com.ar; México 1410; dm from US$15, r with shared/ good bars, tango venues and other night-
private bath from US$50/60; aiW; bLínea E spots for entertainment. Most accommoda-
Independencia) This buena onda (good vibes) tion options here are hostels, humble hotels
hostel is located off the beaten tourist path or upscale guesthouses rather than five-star
in an atmospheric neighborhood. Rooms are hotels.
small but pleasant and the good common
areas include a nice kitchen, dining and liv-
ing room, airy patio hallways and a pleas- América del Sur HOSTEL $
(Map p58; %011-4300-5525; www.americahos
ant rooftop terrace with hammocks, asado tel.com.ar; Chacabuco 718; dm from US$18, d from
(barbecue grill) and soaking tub in summer. US$70; aiW; bLínea C Independencia) This
There’s also a ping-pong table, foosball and gorgeous boutique-like hostel is the fan-
bike rentals, plus Saturday asados. ciest of its kind in BA, and built especially
to be a hostel. Beyond reception is a fine
Hotel Lyon APARTMENT $$ bar-bistro area with large, elegant wooden
(Map p58; %011-4372-0100; www.hotel-lyon.
com.ar; Riobamba 251; d/tr/q US$85/105/120; patio. Clean dorms with four beds all have
amazingly well-designed bathrooms, while
aiW; bLínea B Callao) If you’re a traveling private rooms are tastefully decorated and
family or group on a budget, consider this
place. The two- and three- bedroom apart- better than those at many midrange hotels.
A multitude of services are on offer.
ments available are basic and no-frills but
very spacious, and all include large bath-
rooms and separate dining areas with fridg- Art Factory Hostel HOSTEL $
(Map p58; %011-4343-1463; www.artfactoryba.
es (but no kitchens). Reserve ahead; wi-fi in com.ar; Piedras 545; dm from US$17, d from US$47;
lobby only. aiW) Friendly and uniquely art-themed,
this fine hostel offers more private rooms
Imagine Hotel HOTEL $$ than most – and all feature huge murals,
(Map p58; %011-4383-2230; www.imagine
hotelboutique.com; México 1330; r US$120-155; painted and decorated by different interna-
tional artists. Even the hallways and water
aiW; bLínea E Independencia) This beau- tanks have colorful cartoonish themes, and
tiful 1850s guesthouse offers nine simple,
colorful rooms, all decorated differently with the 1850s rambling mansion adds some ele-
gant atmosphere. Large rooftop terrace with
rustic yet upscale furniture. The rooms sur- hammocks and separate bar-lounge area
round three lovely outdoor patios accented
with original tiles and leafy plants – the last with pool table.
one has a grassy garden. Breakfast includes Circus Hostel & Hotel HOSTEL $
fresh fruit, yogurt, and eggs to order. It’s a (Map p58; %011-4300-4983; www.hostelcircus.
quiet little paradise in a nontouristy neigh- com; Chacabuco 1020; dm US$15, r from US$50;
borhood. Reserve ahead; dog on premises. aiWs; bLínea C Independencia) From the
79
trendy lounge in front to the wooden deck– a tiny rooftop pool with wood deck. Buffet
surrounded wading pool in back, this hotel- breakfast is served in the healthy restaurant
hostel exudes hipness. Both dorms and downstairs.
private rooms, all small and simple, have
basic furniture and their own bathrooms.
There’s a pool table and slick TV area too, 4 Retiro B u e n os Ai re s S leeping
but no kitchen.
Retiro is a great, central place to be, if you
can afford it – many of BA’s most expensive
Bohemia Buenos Aires HOTEL $ hotels, along with some of its richest inhab-
(Map p58; %011-4115-2561; www.bohemiabuenos itants, are settled here. Close by are leafy
aires.com.ar; Perú 845; r from US$60; aiW; Plaza San Martín, the Retiro bus terminal
bLínea C Independencia) With its slight and train station and many upscale stores
upscale-motel feel, this good-value San and business services. Recoleta and the
Telmo hotel offers 22 simple and neat rooms, Microcentro are just a short stroll away.
most good-sized, if a bit antiseptic with their
white-tiled floors. None of the rooms has a Hotel Tres Sargentos HOTEL $
bathtub, so instead of taking a soak enjoy (Map p70; %011-4312-6082; www.hotel3
the peaceful grassy backyard and small in- sargentos.com.ar; Tres Sargentos 345; s/d/tr
terior patios. The breakfast buffet is a plus, US$50/65/80; aW; bLínea C San Martín)
and there’s a restaurant. Cash discount. A good deal for the location, this simple
budget hotel has a decent lobby and is lo-
oMansión Vitraux cated on a pedestrian street. The carpets
BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
(Map p58; %011-4878-4292; www.mansion in the halls need changing, but the ones
vitraux.com; Carlos Calvo 369; r from US$120; in the simple, comfortable rooms are clean
aiWs; bLínea C Independencia) Almost too enough. Some rooms higher up and facing
slick for San Telmo, this glass-fronted bou- out even offer a bit of a view. Five-person
tique hotel offers 12 beautiful rooms, all in apartment available.
different designs. All have either flat-screen
or projection TV, and bathrooms boast very oCasa Calma BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
contemporary design. The breakfast buffet (Map p70; %011-4312-5000; www.casacalma
is in the basement wine bar, and a tasting hotel.com.ar; Suipacha 1015; r from US$285;
might be included in your stay. There is also aiW; bLínea C San Martín) S Those with
a large Jacuzzi, a dry sauna and a fancy roof- an ecoconscious mind now have their per-
top terrace with small lap pool. fect hideaway in BA: this central, envi-
ronmentally friendly and luxurious hotel.
Mundo Bolívar BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ Rooms are beautifully pristine and relaxing
(Map p65; %011-4300-3619; www.mundoboli (some even have sauna or Jacuzzi), with
var.com; Bolívar 1701; studio & apt US$85-110; Zen-like baths and serene atmosphere. Yoga
aW; g29) Fourteen spacious studios and mats and bamboo bikes available; discount
loft apartments with kitchenettes have been without breakfast.
renovated into attractive modern spaces –
some with original details such as carved
doorways or painted ceilings – at this amaz- 4 Recoleta & Barrio Norte
ing mansion. Separate entrances join with Most of the accommodations in Recoleta are
hallways connecting through the complex, expensive, and what cheap hotels there are
and there are lovely garden patios in which tend to be full much of the time. Buildings
to relax. English, Danish, German and Por- here are grand and beautiful, befitting the
tuguese spoken. No breakfast; long-term city’s richest barrio, and you’ll be close to
stays available. Recoleta’s famous cemetery, along with its
lovely parks, museums and boutiques.
Patios de San Telmo BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(Map p58; %011-4307-0480; www.patiosdesan Yira Yira Guesthouse
GUESTHOUSE $
telmo.com.ar; Chacabuco 752; r US$145-190; (Map p58; %011-4812-4077; www.yirayiraba.
aiWs) Located in an 1860 conventillo com; Uruguay 911, No 1B; s/d/tr US$40/55/85;
(tenement house) is this pleasant boutique aiW; bLínea D Callao) This casual, inti-
hotel with 30 simple, elegant rooms sur- mate apartment-home is run by the helpful
rounding several patios. There’s a lovely Paz, who lives on-site. The floors are wooden
‘library’ room decorated with artwork, a and the ceilings high, and there are just four
back patio with hanging basket chairs and large rooms (all with shared bathrooms)
FOTOGRAFIABASICA/GETTY IMAGES ©
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STUART DEE/GETTY IMAGES ©
80
81ANTON PETRUS/GETTY IMAGES ©
1. El Caminito (p65) ANIBALTREJO/GETTY IMAGES ©
La Boca’s most famous street contains
buildings with colorful facades.
2. Puerto Madero (p60)
Buenos Aires’ newest official barrio is a
wonderful place for a stroll. The floating
naval museum, Fragata Sarmiento (p61)
is pictured in the foreground.
3. Parque 3 de Febrero (p71)
These green gardens are home to a zoo and
a planetarium.
4. Teatro Colón (p62)
Buenos Aires’ much-loved theater regularly
hosts performances by prominent figures.
82
facing the central living area with tiny patio. Alvear Palace Hotel HOTEL $$$
It’s a good place to meet other travelers and (Map p70; %011-4808-2100; www.alvearpalace.
is centrally located near downtown. Reserve com; Av Alvear 1891; r from US$620; aiWs;
ahead. g130) The classiest, most traditional hotel
in BA. Old-world sophistication and excel-
Hotel Lion D’or HOTEL $ lent service will help erase the trials of your
(Map p70; %011-4803-8992; www.hotel-liondor.
com.ar; Pacheco de Melo 2019; s/d/tr from long flight into town, while the bathtub
B u e n os Ai re s S leeping Jacuzzi, Hermès toiletries and Egyptian-
US$32/43/59; aW; bLínea D Pueyrredón) cotton bed sheets aid your trip into dream-
These digs have their charm (it’s an old
embassy), but rooms vary widely – some land. There’s also an excellent restaurant,
elegant tea room, champagne bar, fine spa,
are small, basic and dark, while others are indoor swimming pool and – if you’re in a
grand. Despite some rough edges, all are
good value and most have been modernized deluxe suite – butler service.
for comfort. The old marble staircase and 4 Palermo
elevator are fabulous, and there’s a nice roof-
top area. The cheapest rooms share bath- About a 10-minute taxi ride from the city
rooms; air-con costs extra. center (and also well connected by bus and
Subte lines), Palermo is the top choice for
Reina Madre Hostel HOSTEL $ many travelers. Not only is it full of exten-
(Map p84; %011-4962-5553; www.rmhostel.com; sive parklands – which are great for week-
Av Anchorena 1118; dm from US$16, s/d from end jaunts and sporting activities – but
US$40/44; aiW; bLínea D Pueyrredón) This you’ll have heaps of cutting-edge restau-
wonderful hostel is clean, safe and well run. rants, happening bars, designer boutiques
It’s in an old building that has plenty of per- and hip dance clubs at your fingertips. Most
sonality, with high ceilings and original tiles, of these places are located in the extensive
and all rooms are comfortable and modern subneighborhood of Palermo Viejo, which
(and share bathrooms). There’s a cozy living is further divided into Palermo Soho and
room with balcony and small kitchen plus Palermo Hollywood.
lots of dining tables, but the highlight is the
wooden-deck rooftop with asado. Pet cat on
premises. Mansilla 3935 B&B B&B $
(Map p84; %011-4833-3821; www.mansilla3935.
com; Mansilla 3935; s/d US$40/60; aiW)
Art Suites APARTMENT $$ Family-run B&B in a homey, darkish house,
(Map p70; %011-4821-6800; www.artsuites. offering a great deal. Each of the six simple
com.ar; Azcuénaga 1465; 1- & 2-bedroom apt but lovely rooms comes with its own bath-
US$140-295; aW; bLínea D Pueyrredón) The 15 room. Ceilings are high, and a few tiny
luxurious, modern and spacious apartments patios add charm.
here are all bright and boast minimalist
decor, full kitchens or kitchenettes, sunny
balconies and slick, hip furniture. Windows Chill House Hostel HOSTEL $
(Map p84; %011-4861-6175; www.chillhouse.
are double-paned for quiet, staff speak Eng- com.ar; Agüero 781; dm US$17, d US$49-67; iW;
lish and security is excellent. Long-term bLínea B Carlos Gardel) One of the coolest-vibe
discounts are available; reserve ahead. An hostels in BA is at this remodeled old house
annex offers more apartments. boasting high ceilings and a rustic artsy
style. There are two dorms and eight private
oPoetry Building APARTMENT $$$ rooms with bathroom (No 6 is especially
(Map p70; %011-4827-2772; www.poetrybuild
ing.com; Junín 1280; apt US$215-285; aWs; nice). There’s also an awesome rooftop ter-
race where weekly asados take place, occa-
bLínea D Pueyrredón) These gorgeous stu- sional live music and free bike rentals.
dios and one- or two-bedroom apartments
are perfect for families or small groups.
Eco Pampa Hostel HOSTEL $
(Map p84; %011-4831-2435; www.hostelpampa.
Each one is different, eclectically decorat- com.ar; Guatemala 4778; dm US$20,s/d US$70/85;
ed with reproduction antique furniture,
and all come with fully stocked kitchens. iW; bLínea D Plaza Italia) S Buenos Aires’
Some boast an outdoor balcony or patio, but first ‘green’ hostel is this casual spot sport-
there’s also a beautiful common terrace with ing vintage furniture, low-energy light bulbs
soaking pool. Amenities include flat-screen and a recycling system. The rooftop is home
TVs, plus iPod and cell-phone rentals. to a small veggie garden, compost pile and
83
solar panels. Dorms are a good size and each Le Petit Palais B&B $$
of the eight private rooms comes with bath- (Map p84; %011-4962-4834; www.lepetitpalais
room and flat-screen TV (most have air-con). -buenosaires.com; Gorriti 3574; s/d from US$70/80;
There’s another branch in Belgrano. aW) Small but charming, this French-run
B&B offers just five simple but pleasant
Art Factory Palermo HOSTEL $ rooms, all with private bathroom. The high-
(Map p84; %2004-4958; www.artfactorypalermo.
com.ar; Costa Rica 4353; dm from USD$15, r with light is the pretty little terrace on the 2nd
floor, where possibly BA’s best breakfast can B u e n os Ai re s S leeping
shared/private bath from US$50/60; aiW) be served in warm weather – fresh yogurt,
Decent and no-frills, this hostel sits just out-
side Palermo’s border but is an easy walk- jams and breads, all homemade, along with
eggs, medialunas and cereals. Friendly cats
ing distance to many of its restaurants and on premises.
nightlife. Like its sister hostel in San Telmo,
it’s located in an old house and decorated
Infinito Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
(Map p84; %011-2070-2626; www.infinitohotel.
with artsy murals and stencils. There’s a com; Arenales 3689; r from US$105; aiW;
small kitchen and living room area, and a
limited number of bathrooms – so their use bLínea D Scalabrini Ortíz) Starting at its small
can get tight. A rooftop terrace is coming. lobby cafe-reception, this hotel exudes a
certain trendiness. Rooms are small but
oThe 5th Floor B&B $$ good, boasting flat-screen TVs, fridges and
(Map p84; %011-4827-0366; www.the5thfloorba.
com; near Vidt & Santa Fe; r US$90-170; ai; a purple color scheme, and there’s a sauna
and Jacuzzi. It tries to be ecologically con-
bLínea D Scalabrini Ortíz) This upscale B&B of- scious, mostly by recycling. Located near
fers seven elegant rooms, three with private
balcony. All are tastefully decorated with some parks but still within walking dis-
tance of Palermo’s nightlife. Buffet breakfast
art-deco furniture and modern amenities. included.
The common living room is great for chat-
ting with the English owner, a polo enthu- Rugantino Hotel HOTEL $$
(Map p84; %011-6379-5113; www.rugantinohotel
siast, and there’s also a pleasant back patio boutique.com; Uriarte 1844; r US$75-85; aiW;
with lovely tile details. Excellent breakfast.
Address given upon reservation; three-night bLínea D Palermo) This small and intimate
hotel is located in a 1920s building and run
minimum stay. by an Italian family. Various tiny terraces
oCabrera Garden B&B $$ and catwalks connect the seven simple but
(Map p84; %011-4777-7668; www.cabreragarden.
com; José Antonio Cabrera 5855; r US$145-250; beautiful rooms, all decked out in hard-
wood floors and modern styling – combined
aiWs; g140) One of BA’s loveliest stays with a few antiques. The climbing vine–
is this gay-friendly three-room B&B. The
remodelled 1920s building boasts a beau- greenery in the small central courtyard well
is soothing, and you can expect espresso for
tiful grassy garden with small patio and breakfast.
pool, and there’s a wonderful living room
in which to hang out. Rooms are very com- Palermo Viejo B&B GUESTHOUSE $$
(Map p84; %011-4773-6012; www.palermo
fortable and all different, with modern viejobb.com; Niceto Vega 4629; s/d US$70/80;
conveniences like flat-screen TV and iPod
docks. English, German and Polish spoken; aiW; g140) This small and intimate B&B
is located in a remodeled casa chorizo – a
reserve ahead. long, narrow house. The six rooms all front
Hotel Clasico HOTEL $$ a leafy outdoor patio hallway and are sim-
(Map p84; %011-4773-2353; www.hotelclasico.
com; Costa Rica 5480; r US$120-170; aW) ple but quite comfortable; two have lofts.
All come with fridge and a good breakfast.
Attractive hotel with 33 tastefully ‘classic’ RSVP or call them ahead of time – they often
rooms, some with tiny balconies but all
with wood floors, modern conveniences and leave on errands in the afternoon.
earthy color schemes. Go for the penthouse oMiravida Soho GUESTHOUSE $$$
(Map p84; %011-4774-6433; www.miravidasoho.
with terrace for something special. Creative com; Darregueyra 2050; r US$275-370; aiW;
elevator with one glass wall facing an artsy
mural. Great breakfast served in the down- bLínea D Plaza Italia) Run by friendly owners,
this gorgeous guesthouse comes with six
stairs, rustic-hip restaurant. beautiful and elegant rooms. All are very
84
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86
B u e n os Ai re s E ating Palermo 18 Cabrera Garden.......................................B3
19 Chill House Hostel...................................G6
æ Top Sights 20 Eco Pampa Hostel...................................B6
1 Museo de Arte Latinoamericano 21 Hotel Clasico ............................................C3
de Buenos Aires................................... G2 22 Infinito Hotel............................................. F4
23 Le Petit Palais .......................................... F6
æ Sights 24 Mansilla 3935 B&B.................................. E4
2 Casa Brandon.......................................... C7 25 Mine Hotel ................................................A7
3 Centro Islámico Rey Fahd ..................... D2 26 Miravida Soho..........................................D3
4 Jardín Japonés........................................ G2 27 Palermo Viejo B&B..................................D5
5 Jardín Zoológico ......................................E3 28 Reina Madre Hostel.................................G6
6 Mercado de Abasto ................................ G7 29 Rugantino Hotel.......................................A6
7 Museo Argentino de Ciencias 30 The 5th Floor............................................ F4
Naturales .............................................. C7 31 Vain Boutique Hotel................................D3
8 Museo Casa Carlos Gardel.................... G7 ú Eating
9 Museo Evita ..............................................F3 32 Almacén Oui Oui......................................C2
10 Museo Nacional de Arte 33 Artemesia .................................................B3
Decorativo ............................................ H3 34 Bio..............................................................D3
11 Museo Xul Solar...................................... G5 35 Buenos Aires Verde ................................C4
12 Parque 3 de Febrero................................ F1 36 Burger Joint .............................................A6
13 Plaza Serrano...........................................A7 37 Casa Coupage..........................................C3
38 Don Julio...................................................E4
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 39 El Preferido de Palermo..........................B6
14 Bar du Marché......................................... C3 40 El Tejano ................................................... E5
15 Pain et Vin................................................ C4 41 Fukuro Noodle Bar..................................C3
16 Vamos .......................................................F5 42 Gran Dabbang..........................................D5
ÿ Sleeping
17 Art Factory Palermo................................E5
comfortable and one has a private terrace. 5 Eating
There’s a wine cellar, bar-lounge area for
evening wine tastings, a small and relaxing Eating out in Buenos Aires is a gastronom-
patio, and even an elevator. It serves good, ical highlight. Not only are the typical par
full breakfasts; reserve ahead. rillas (steak restaurants) a dime a dozen,
but the city’s Palermo Viejo neighborhood
Mine Hotel HOTEL $$$ boasts the most varied ethnic cuisine in the
(Map p84; %011-4832-1100; www.minehotel. country. You can find Armenian, Brazilian,
com; Gorriti 4770; d US$320-430; aiWs; g55) Mexican, Indian, Japanese, Southeast Asian
S This hip boutique hotel offers 20 good- and Middle Eastern cuisines – and even
sized rooms; some come with Jacuzzi and fusions of several. Most are acceptable and
balcony and all have a desk and natural decor some are exceptional.
touches. Get one overlooking the highlight
of the hotel: the peaceful backyard, which Microcentro eateries tend to cater to the
boasts a small wading pool. There’s a small business crowd, while nearby Puerto Ma
bistro for the buffet breakfast, and Mine even dero is full of elegant and pricey restaurants.
attempts to be somewhat ecofriendly (re Congreso is pretty traditional cuisine-wise,
using towels, low-energy bulbs, recycling). including its ‘Little Spain’ neighborhood.
Recoleta is another expensive neighborhood
Vain Boutique Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ with touristy but fun dining options near
(Map p84; %011-4776-8246; www.vainuniverse. the cemetery. San Telmo keeps attracting
com; Thames 2226; r US$210-365; aiW; more and more worthwhile restaurants.
bLínea D Plaza Italia) Fifteen elegant rooms,
most with high ceilings and wooden floors, Reservations are usually unnecessary
live at this nicely renovated building. All are except at the most popular restaurants or
modern in that white, minimalist way, and perhaps on weekends. Except at five-star
boast sofas and small desks. The highlight, restaurants, wait staff provide simply ad-
however, is the wonderfully airy, multilevel equate service – nothing fancy. Be warned
living room with attached wooden-decked that upscale restaurants charge a cubierto, a
terrace and Jacuzzi. small cover charge for utensil use and bread.
This doesn’t include the tip, which should be
at least 10% (15% at fancier places).
87
43 La Cabrera ............................................... C4 67 Sitges ........................................................D6 B u e n os Ai re s E ating
44 La Carnicería ............................................E3 68 Sugar.........................................................B6
45 Las Pizarras..............................................E3 69 The Harrison
46 NoLa ..........................................................E5
47 Oui Oui...................................................... C2 Speakeasy ............................................. B7
48 Sarkis........................................................ C5 70 Verne......................................................... E5
49 Siamo nel Forno...................................... C3 71 Victoria Brown .........................................A6
50 Sudestada................................................ C3 ý Entertainment
û Drinking & Nightlife 72 Bach Bar ...................................................D5
51 878............................................................ B5 73 Esquina Carlos Gardel ............................G7
52 Amerika.....................................................E6 74 La Bomba de Tiempo..............................G7
53 Antares......................................................C1 75 La Catedral............................................... E7
54 Antares......................................................A7 76 La Viruta ...................................................D5
55 Crobar ....................................................... E1 77 Los Cardones...........................................B5
56 El Carnal................................................... C4 78 Salon Canning..........................................D5
57 Frank's Bar............................................... B3 79 Thelonious Bar......................................... F4
58 Glam ......................................................... G6 þ Shopping
59 Home Hotel.............................................. B3 80 Bolivia........................................................A7
60 Kika ........................................................... C4 81 Bolivia........................................................A6
61 LAB Training Center & Coffee 82 Calma Chicha...........................................A7
Shop ...................................................... C4 Feria Plaza Serrano........................(see 13)
62 Lattente Espresso & Brew Bar.............. A6 83 Hermanos
63 Magdalena's Party.................................. A6
64 Mundo Bizarro......................................... C5 Estebecorena........................................B3
65 Niceto Club .............................................. C4 84 Lo de Joaquín Alberdi .............................A6
66 On Tap ...................................................... C3 85 Patio del Liceo..........................................G5
86 Rapsodia...................................................A7
Many restaurants (especially outside the cheese, or grilled zucchini and eggplant.
Microcentro) are closed on Monday and There’s only one communal table, as they
have limited hours on Sunday. cater to mostly to-go business clientele.
A good website for BA restaurants is Vita HEALTH FOOD $
www.guiaoleo.com (in Spanish); for good (Map p58; %011-4342-0788; www.vitamarket.
blogs in English there are www.saltshaker. com.ar; Hipólito Yrigoyen 583; mains AR$60-65;
net and www.pickupthefork.com. h8am-8pm Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu & Fri, 10:30am-
5 Microcentro 1am Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; v) Here’s a hippie-ish,
casual and health-oriented eatery offering
tasty vegetarian dishes like organic seitan
180 Burger Bar BURGERS $ pizzas, lentil burgers and vegetable calzones.
(Map p58; %011-4328-7189; Suipacha 749; bur
gers AR$60-75; hnoon-4pm Mon-Fri) Hankeri ng Various freshly mixed juices and licuados
(fruit shakes) are available (with the option
for a hamburger? Then join the hip, young of adding a wheatgrass shot) and there are
crowd that will likely be lined up at this
small diner, and order up. Choose a ‘salsa’ plenty of gourmet salads. Organic coffee is
(mayochimi, tzatziki, barbacoa) and add also served. Another branch is in Palermo.
the cheese option if you wish. Chow down Aldo’s Vinoteca ARGENTINE $$
within the confines of concrete walls, clunky
furniture and blasting music. (Map p58; %011-4334-2380; www.aldosvino
teca.com; Moreno 372; mains AR$120-180;
hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) This
Latino Sandwich SANDWICHES $ restaurant and wine shop is an upscale
(Map p58; %4331-0859; www.latinosandwich.
com; Tacuari 185; sandwiches AR$40-56; h8am- eatery serving a small but tasty menu of
meat, seafood and pasta dishes, all amid
5pm Mon-Fri) Some of the best eateries in walls lined with wine. What makes this
BA are holes-in-the-wall – and here’s a case
in point. This is the downtown place to place unique, however, is that the wine is
grab sandwiches like an Argentine mila sold at retail prices – thus making it easier
nesa (breaded steaks; but with arugula to sample (and buy) the nearly 600 labels
available.
and guacam ole!), BBQ pork with cheddar
88
5 Puerto Madero sophisticated parrilla. Go for the rack of
lamb, sucking pig or Kobe beef, though the
MODERN ARGENTINE $$ dry-aged ‘steak flight’ (AR$480) is unique-
i Central Market
(Map p58; %011-5775-0330; Av Macacha Güemes ly spectacular. There are a few seafood and
302; mains AR$140-250; h8am-1am) Especially pasta dishes for noncarnivores. Try to re-
pleasant on sunny days is this modern res- serve a table in the atrium, with full view of
taurant on the waterfront – the tables on the Puente de la Mujer.
B u e n os Ai re s E ating promenade are great for people-watching.
Order espresso and scones for breakfast, and
panini (Italian-style sandwiches) or contem- 5 Congreso
porary Argentine dishes for lunch. There’s
also more casual seating at the gourmet deli, oChan Chan PERUVIAN $
plus a kitchenwares shop to poke around. (Map p58; %011-4382-8492; Hipólito Yrigoyen
1390; mains AR$60-90; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-
12.30am Tue-Sat, to 11.30pm Sun) Thanks to
oChila MODERN ARGENTINE $$$ fair prices and relatively quick service, this
(Map p58; %011-4343-6067; www.chilaweb. colorful Peruvian eatery is jam-packed at
com.ar; Alicia Moreau de Justo 876; 3-course menu lunchtime with office workers devouring
AR$980, 7-course menu AR$1400, drinks not includ- plates of ceviche (seafood cured in citrus)
ed; h8pm-midnight Tue-Sun) Some of Buenos and ajiaco de conejo (rabbit and potato
Aires’ best and most original cuisine is created stew). There are also plenty of arroz chau
by award-winning chef Soledad Nardelli. Her fa (Peruvian-style fried rice) dishes, easily
three- and seven-course, haute cuisine dishes downed with a tangy pisco sour or a pitcher
utilize only the best seasonal ingredients, and of chicha morada (a sweet fruity drink).
the restaurant also works closely with quality
producers. Expect beautifully presented food, Pizzería Güerrín PIZZA $
a professional staff and – if you’re lucky – a (Map p58; %011-4371-8141; Av Corrientes 1368;
table with a romantic view of the docks. pizza slice AR$16; h11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri &
Sat) A quick pit-stop on Av Corrientes is this
PARRILLA $$$ cheap but classic old pizza joint. Just pay, then
Le Grill
(Map p58; %011-4331-0454; www.legrill.com.ar; point at a prebaked slice behind the glass
Alicia Moreau de Justo 876; mains AR$230-460; counter and eat standing up with the rest of
h12:30-3pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 7pm- the crowd. Or sit down and order one freshly
midnight Sat, 12:30-3pm Sun) No surprise – baked – this way you can also choose from a
grilled meat is the specialty at this highly greater variety of toppings for your pizza.
VEGETARIAN IN BUENOS AIRES
Argentine cuisine is internationally famous for its succulent grilled meats, but this
doesn’t mean vegetarians – or even vegans – are completely out of luck.
Most restaurants, including parrillas, serve a few items acceptable to most vegetar-
ians, such as green salads, omelets, pizza and pasta. Key words to beware of include
carne (beef), pollo (chicken), cerdo (pork) and cordero (lamb). Sin carne means ‘with-
out meat’ and the phrase ‘Soy vegetariano/a’ (I’m a vegetarian) can come in handy.
Close to the Microcentro there’s the popular cafeteria Granix (Map p58; %011-
4343-7546; Florida 165, 1st fl; per kilo AR$165; h11am-3:30pm Mon-Fri; v), located upstairs
in a shopping mall, and hippie-ish but cool Vita (p87). Broccolino (Map p58;
%011-4322-7754; www.broccolino.com; Esmeralda 776; mains AR$80-200; hnoon-11:30pm;
v) specializes in pasta – it’s not meat-free, but there are many vegetarian choices.
In San Telmo, try trendy Hierbabuena (Map p65; %011-4362-2542; Av Caseros 454;
h9am-midnight Tue-Sun, to 5pm Mon; v).
The Palermo Viejo area has many more options, including:
Bio (p92)
Artemesia (Map p84; %4776-5484; Gorriti 5996; h12:30-3pm & 9-11:30pm Tue-Sat,
10am-5pm Sun; v)
Buenos Aires Verde (Map p84; %011-4775-9594; Gorriti 5657; h9am-12:30am Mon-Sat)
El Rincón Orgánico (%2062-9515; Bulnes 910; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat), over in Almagro,
focuses on organic dishes, which are mostly but not completely vegetarian.
89
Parrilla Peña PARRILLA $$
(Map p58; %011-4371-5643; Rodríguez Peña SUPPER CLUBS
682; mains AR$80-160; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-
midnight Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun) This simple, Puertas cerradas (closed-door restau- B u e n os Ai re s E ating
traditional and long-running parrilla is well rants), a phenomenon during the last
known for its excellent-quality meats and decade, continue to be popular. These
generous portions. The service is fast and prix-fixe restaurants often have limited
efficient and it’s great value. Don’t expect opening hours and days, and some
many tourists – this is a local’s sort of place. won’t tell you the address until you
Also on offer are homemade pastas, salads make reservations (usually mandatory).
and milanesas (breaded steaks), along with But if you want that feeling of being
several tasty desserts and a good wine list. somewhere ‘secret’ – and eating very
good, gourmet food – these places are
oAramburu GOURMET $$$ highly appealing.
(Map p58; %011-4305-0439; www.aramburu
resto.com.ar; Salta 1050; prix fixe AR$1100, with
wine pairing AR$1700; h8:30-11pm Tue-Sat) Chef of tasty grilled meats at decent prices. There
Gonzalo Aramburu’s 19-course ‘molecular’ are also pastas for that unfortunate vegetar-
meal is astounding; each artistically created ian that might get dragged along.
plate is just a few bites of gastronomic de-
light. Expect enlightening tastes, textures Chochán ARGENTINE $$
and smells, plus unique presentations – (Map p58; %011-4307-3661; Piedras 672; mains
all will translate into a highly memorable AR$125-175; h8pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-4pm
dining experience. Located in the edgy but & 8pm-midnight Sat & Sun) This eatery is for
upcoming neighborhood of Montserrat. Its pork-lovers only – ribs, braised shoulder,
sister restaurant, Aramburu Bis, is nearby. elbows and raviolis – everything is made
from pork, or chanchos (Chochán being
a play on words). Grab a sandwich – pork
5 San Telmo belly, pulled pork, pork tongue. Or white
corn and smoked pork soup. Or a small plate
Bar El Federal ARGENTINE $ like pork blood sausage. No guilt – pigging
(Map p58; %011-4361-7328; Carlos Calvo 599; out here is totally allowed.
mains AR$65-160; h8am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri
& Sat; W) Dating from 1864, this historic bar
has a classic, somewhat rustic atmosphere El Desnivel PARRILLA $$
accented with original wood, tiles, and an (Map p58; %011-4300-9081; Defensa 855;
eye-catching antique bar. The specialties mains AR$100-180; hnoon-midnight Tue-Sun,
here are sandwiches (especially turkey) and 7pm-midnight Mon) This famous and long-
picadas (shared appetizer plates), but there running parrilla joint packs in both locals
are also lots of pastas, salads, desserts and and tourists, serving them treats like chorizo
tall mugs of icy beer. sandwiches and bife de lomo (tenderloin
steak). The sizzling grill out front is tortur-
ous while you wait for a table (which could
El Banco Rojo INTERNATIONAL $ be in the large back room) – get here early,
(Map p58; %011-4362-3177; Bolivar 914; mains especially on weekends.
AR$50-60; hnoon-12:30am Tue-Sat, to 11:30pm
Sun) A San Telmo youth magnet, this small
and trendy joint serves up sandwiches oCafé San Juan INTERNATIONAL $$$
(Tandoori pork, lamb kofta), falafels, burg- (Map p58; %011-4300-1112; Av San Juan 452;
ers, tacos and salads. Try the empanada de mains AR$300-350; h12:30-4pm & 8pm-1am)
cordero (lamb turnover) if they have it. Very Having studied in Milan, Paris and Barce-
casual, with blasting rock music and counter lona, celebrity TV-chef Leandro Cristóbal
seating only. now runs the kitchen at this renowned San
Telmo bistro. Start with fabulous tapas,
PARRILLA $$ then delve into the grilled Spanish octopus,
Gran Parrilla del Plata
(Map p58; %011-4300-8858; www.parrilladel molleja (sweetbreads) cannelloni and the
plata.com; Chile 594; mains AR$90-200; hnoon- amazing pork bondiola (deliciously tender
4pm & 8pm-1am Mon-Sat, noon-1am Sun) There’s after nine hours’ roasting). Most of the sea-
nothing too fancy at this traditional corner food is flown in daily from Patagonia. Re-
parrilla (one of the best in San Telmo) – just serve for lunch and dinner.
old-time atmosphere and generous portions
90
If you can’t get a table here, try the meats – for something really special. Expect
Café San Juan La Cantina (Map p58; the cocktails, desserts and service to be five-
%011-4300-9344; Chile 474; mains AR$200-250; star as well.
h12.30-4pm & 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu & Sun, to
1am Fri & Sat), located a few blocks away and 5 Recoleta & Barrio Norte
with a different menu.
Cumaná ARGENTINE $
5 La Boca (Map p70; %011-4813-9207; Rodriguez Peña
B u e n os Ai re s E ating 1149; mains AR$75-125; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-1am)
To sample Argentina’s regional cuisine,
Proa Cafe CAFE $ check out this colorful, budget-friendly
(Map p65; %011-4104-1003; www.proa.org/ eatery with huge picture windows and an
eng/cafe.php; Av Don Pedro de Mendoza 1929; old-fashioned adobe oven. Cumaná special-
mains AR$60-100; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun) Chef izes in delicious cazuela, stick-to-your-ribs
Lucas Angelillo presides over this airy eat- stews filled with squash, corn, eggplant,
ery, located on the top floor of Fundación potatoes and meat. Also popular are the
Proa (free access). Stop in briefly for a fresh empanadas, locro and humita (corn, cheese
juice and gourmet sandwich, or stay longer and onion tamales). Come early to avoid
and order a meat, seafood or pasta dish. a wait.
Don’t miss the rooftop terrace on a warm,
sunny day – you’ll get good views of the Ria-
chuelo, hopefully without its corresponding Como en Casa ARGENTINE $
(Map p70; %011-4816-5507; www.tortascomoen
scents. casa.com; Riobamba 1239; mains AR$80-130;
5 Retiro h8am-midnight Tue-Sat, to 8:30pm Sun & Mon)
This gorgeous, upscale cafe-restaurant has a
Filo ITALIAN $$ very elegant atmosphere and attracts Reco-
(Map p70; %011-4311-0312; www.filo-ristorante. leta’s wealthiest. Its best feature is the shady
com; San Martín 975; mains AR$120-190; hnoon- patio, complete with large fountain and
1am) Popular with the business lunch crowd, surrounded by grand buildings, a must on
this large, pop art–style Italian pizzeria a warm day. For lunch there are fancy sand-
tosses 30 kinds of thin-crust pies with fresh wiches, salads, vegetable tarts and gourmet
toppings – try a pie piled high with prosciut- pizzas, while dinner options include goulash
to and arugula. Other tasty choices include and homemade pastas. Plenty of luscious
panini, gourmet salads, dozens of pastas desserts, plus breakfast too.
and a whirlwind of drinks and desserts. The El Sanjuanino ARGENTINE $
menu is extensive – there’s something to
please just about everyone here. (Map p70; %011-4805-2683; Posadas 1515;
empanadas AR$19, mains AR$80-150; hnoon-
4pm & 7pm-1am) This long-running, cozy
Dadá INTERNATIONAL $$ little joint probably has the cheapest food
(Map p70; %011-4314-4787; San Martín 941;
mains AR$130-200; hnoon-2am Mon-Thu, to 5am in Recoleta, attracting both penny-pinching
locals and thrifty tourists. Sit either ups tairs
Fri & Sat) The tiny bohemian Dadá, with walls or downstairs (in the basement) and order
painted red and a bar cluttered with wine
bottles, feels like an unassuming neighbor- spicy empanadas, tamales or locro (corn
and meat stew). The curved brick ceiling
hood bar in Paris. Order something savory adds to the atmosphere, but many take
off the bistro menu during the day, like a stir-
fry; at night you can dine on grilled salmon their food to go – Recoleta’s lovely parks are
just a couple of blocks away.
and down an expertly mixed cocktail.
oElena MODERN ARGENTINE $$$ Rodi Bar % 011-4801-5230; ARGENTINE $$
(Map p70;
(Map p70; %011-4321-1728; www.elenapony Vicente López
line.com; Four Seasons, Posadas 1086; mains 1900; mains AR$100-200; h7am-1am Mon-Sat) A
AR$350-400; h7-11am, 12:30-3:30pm & 7:30pm- great option for well-priced, unpretentious
12:30am) If you’re looking for a splurge night food in upscale Recoleta. This traditional
out, Elena should be your destination. Lo- corner restaurant with fine old-world at-
cated at the Four Seasons Hotel, this highly mosphere and extensive menu offers some-
rated restaurant uses the best quality- thing for everyone, from inexpensive combo
sourced ingredients to create exquisite plates to relatively unusual dishes such as
dishes. Order its specialty – the dry-aged marinated beef tongue.
91
oCasa Saltshaker MEDITERRANEAN, ANDEAN $$$ A DIFFERENT STEAK B u e n os Ai re s E ating
EXPERIENCE
(www.casasaltshaker.com; set menu incl wine pair-
ings US$70; h8:45pm Wed-Sat) Ex–New Yorker Going to a parrilla is great, but there
Dan Perlman is the chef behind this respect- are other options for amazing steak
ed place, which is a puerta cerrada (closed- experiences
door restaurant) in his own home. You’ll
have to book ahead, arrive at an appointed Argentine Experience (www.the
hour and sit at a communal table, which can argentinee xperience.com) Learn the story
be a lot more fun than it sounds – especially of Argentina’s beef and how to make
for solo diners. Expect a five-course set menu empanadas and alfajores (cookie sand-
focusing on creative Mediterranean- or wiches). Plus you’ll eat a supremely
Andean-inspired dishes. Address and tele- tender steak.
phone given upon reservation.
Steaks by Luis (www.steakbuenosaires.
5 Palermo net) An upscale asado (barbecue grill)
experience where you’ll nibble on
oSarkis MIDDLE EASTERN $ cheese and sip boutique wine while
(Map p84; %011-4772-4911; Thames 1101; watching large hunks of meat being
mains AR$65-160; hnoon-3pm & 8pm-1am) The grilled.
food is fabulous and well priced at this
long-standing Middle Eastern restaurant – Parrilla Tour (www.parrillatour.com)
come with a group to sample many exotic Meet your knowledgeable guide at a
dishes. Start with the roasted eggplant hum- restaurant for a choripán (traditional
mus, boquerones (marinated sardines), sausage sandwich), followed by an em-
keppe crudo (raw meat) or parras rellenas panada. You’ll finish at a local parrilla.
(stuffed grape leaves), then follow up with
kebabs or lamb in yogurt sauce. Less busy
at lunchtime; expect a long wait for dinner. Sun) The brainchild of American Lisa
Puglia is this small, popular restaurant
Oui Oui INTERNATIONAL $ focusing on New Orleans Cajun cuisine.
(Map p84; %011-4778-9614; www.ouioui.com. Everything is homemade, from the fried
ar; Nicaragua 6068; mains AR$70-90; h8am-8pm chicken sandwich (the hottest seller) to the
Mon-Sat; W) Pain au chocolat and shab- chorizo gumbo to the spicy, vegetarian red
by chic? Oui. This charming and popular beans and rice. The jalapeño cornbread and
French-style cafe produces the goods – dark bourbon-coffee pecan pie are the bomb, as
coffee, buttery croissants and jars of tangy is the microb rewed beer.
lemonade – and boasts a small and cozy
interior. Choose also from creative salads, El Preferido de Palermo ARGENTINE $
(Map p84; %011-4774-6585; Jorge Louis Borges
gourmet sandwiches and luscious pastries. 2108; mains AR$100-120; h9am-11:30pm Mon-
Its annex, Almacén Oui Oui (Map p84; cnr
Dorrego & Nicaragua; h8am-9pm Tue-Sun), is on Sat) You can’t get much more traditional
than this atmospheric, family-run joint.
the same block. Order tapas, meat platters, homemade
Fukuro Noodle Bar JAPANESE $ pastas and seafood soups, or try one of its
(Map p84; %15-3290-0912; www.fukuronoodle specialties – the tortillas, the milanesas and
bar.com; Costa Rica 5514; noodle soup AR$110; the Cuban rice with veal and polenta. Hang-
h8pm-midnight Tue-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) For ing hams, jars of olives and high tables with
a welcome change from all that meat con- blocky wood stools add to the charm.
sumption, check into this comfort-food eat-
ery. Four kinds of ramen are on offer, along Burger Joint AMERICAN $
(Map p84; %011-4833-5151; Jorge Louis Borges
with a good selection of bao (steamed buns) 1766; burgers AR$60; hnoon-midnight) For
and gyoza (potstickers). Gluten-free noodles
available, plus sake and microbrew draft some of the juiciest burgers in BA, head
to this popular, graffiti-covered spot. NYC-
beer. Popular, with counter seating only. trained chef Pierre Chacra offers just four
NoLa CAJUN $ kinds to choose from, but they’re all stellar.
(Map p84; %15-6350-1704; www.nolabuenos Try the Mexican (jalapeños, guacamole and
aires.com; Gorriti 4389; mains AR$90-100; hot sauce) or Jamaican (pineapple, cheddar
h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 1pm-midnight Sat & and bacon) with a side of hand-cut fries.
92
Bio VEGETARIAN $$
(Map p84; %011-4774-3880; www.biorestaurant.
MUST-TRY FOODS com.ar; Humboldt 2192; mains AR$120-150;
h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; v)
¨¨Bife de chorizo – sirloin steak S Tired of meat? Then make a beeline for
¨¨Empanadas – baked, savory turnovers this casual family-run restaurant, which
¨¨Helado – arguably the best ice cream specializes in healthy, organic and vegetar-
B u e n os Ai re s E ating in the world ian fare. Try the quinoa risotto, curry seitan,
Mediterranean couscous or mushrooms a
la Bahiana (Brazilian-style). Don’t miss the
oDon Julio PARRILLA $$ refreshing ginger lemonade. Also caters to
(Map p84; %011-4832-6058; Guatemala 4699;
mains AR$115-230; hnoon-4pm & 7:30pm-1am) celiacs, vegans and raw foodists. Cooking
class available.
Classy service and a great wine list add an
upscale bent to this traditional, and very El Tejano BARBECUE $$
(Map p84; www.facebook.com/ElTejanoBA; Hon-
popular, corner steakhouse. The bife de duras 4416; mains AR$105-145; h12:30-4:30pm &
chorizo (sirloin steak) is the main attraction
here, but the baked goat cheese provolone, 9pm-midnight Tue-Sat) Missing Texas barbecue
from back home? Here’s the place to scratch
bondiola de cerdo (pork shoulder) and that itch. Authentic Texan Larry Rogers
gourmet salads are a treat as well, and por-
tions are large. Come early to avoid a wait. grills up the city’s best beef and pork ribs,
along with smoked brisket, pulled pork and
Las Pizarras INTERNATIONAL $$ chicken wings. The offerings may change by
(Map p84; %011-4775-0625; www.laspizarras
bistro.com; Thames 2296; mains AR$140-215; the day but you can always expect amazingly
tender and delicious meats; the empanadas
h8pm-midnight Tue-Sun) At this simple and and fries are also amazing.
unpretentious yet excellent restaurant,
Chef Rodrigo Castilla cooks up a changing oi Latina
rainbow of eclectic dishes such as grilled SOUTH AMERICAN $$$
(%011-4857-9095; www.ilatinabuenosaires.com;
venison or rabbit stuffed with cherries and Murillo 725; set menu AR$900, with wine pairing
pistachios. Those with meeker stomachs can AR$1380; hset time 7pm or 9pm Tue-Sat) Locat-
choose the asparagus and mushroom risotto ed south of Palermo in Villa Crespo is one of
or any of the homemade pastas. The chalk- BA’s best restaurants: i Latina. The set menu
board menu on the wall adds to the casual consists of seven courses, all exquisitely pre-
atmosphere. pared and presented. Flavors are incredibly
stimulating and complex; this isn’t a place to
Gran Dabbang INTERNATIONAL, FUSION $$ simply fill your tummy, but rather to savor
(Map p84; %011-4832-1186; Scalabrini Ortiz
1543; small plates AR$80-95; h8pm-midnight a gustatory experience that will dazzle your
taste buds. Reservation required.
Mon-Sat) Unique and creative would be the
minimal words to describe the stunning cui-
sine at this unassuming restaurant on a busy Astor MODERN ARGENTINE $$$
(Map p84; %011-4554-0802; www.facebook.
avenue. About eight small plates are offered, com/Astorbistro; Humberto Primo 777, San Telmo;
a wild-eyed fusion of Indian, Thai, Paraguay- h12:30-3:30pm Mon-Wed, 12:30-3:30pm &
an influences (among many), drawn from 8:30pm-m idnight Thu & Fri, 8:30pm-midnight Sat)
chef Mariano Ramón’s world travels. Come French-trained Chef Antonio Soriano pre-
early or late to avoid the inevitable wait. sides over the kitchen at this contemporary
restaurant. The few main dishes change
Siamo nel Forno PIZZA $$ weekly but are always delicious, beautifully
(Map p84; %011-4775-0337; Costa Rica 5886;
pizzas AR$120-160; h8pm-midnight Tue-Thu & presented and accented with edible flowers.
If you order the tasting menu (AR$370),
Sun, to 1am Fri & Sat) Possibly the city’s best bring your appetite.
Naples-style pizzas, made with quality in-
gredients and finished in a hot wood-fired
oven so the thin crusts char beautifully. Try La Carnicería PARRILLA $$$
(Map p84; %011-2071-7199; Thames 2317;
the Margherita, with tomatoes, fresh mozza- mains AR$180-190; h8pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 1-3pm
rella, basil and olive oil; the Champignon & & 8pm-midnight Sat & Sun) It took a while, but
Prosciutto comes with mushrooms, ham and BA finally has its small, boutique parrilla –
goat cheese. Also bakes up excellent calzone. and it’s very, very good. The menu is limited
93
but everything on it is spectacular, from the Most cafes serve all meals and everything
baked cabbage appetizer to the crispy provo in between: breakfast, brunch, lunch, after
leta (barbecued cheese) to the tenderloin noon tea, dinner and late-night snacks.
and rib cuts. Don’t miss the lengua (tongue) Generally they open early in the morning
if it’s on the menu. Creativity runs rampant, and late into the evening.
and portions are huge. Reserve ahead.
In a city that never sleeps, finding a good
Casa Coupage INTERNATIONAL $$$ drink is as easy as walking down the street. B u e n os Ai re s D rinking & N ig h tlife
(Map p84; %011-4777 9295; www.casacoupage. Whether you’re into trendy lounges, Irish
com; Soler 5518; mains AR$200-220; tasting menu pubs, traditional cafes or sports bars, you’ll
AR$560; h8:30-11pm Wed-Sat) Wine lovers will find them all within the borders of BA.
love this closed-door restaurant run by two
friendly sommeliers, Santiago Mymicopulo Argentines aren’t huge drinkers and
and Inés Mendieta. Choose between their you’ll be lucky to see one rip-roaring drunk.
tasting menu or à la carte; the gourmet food One thing they do do, however, is stay up
is gorgeously presented and will be some of late. Most bars and cafes are open until two
the best you’ll experience in BA. The wine or three in the morning, and often until 5am
pairings are excellent and pours generous; on weekends – or until the last customer
expect to try some of Argentina’s tastiest stumbles out the door.
malbec, pinot, torrontés and chardonnay.
Reserve ahead. If you like to party with young, heavy-
drinking crowds, check out Buenos Aires
La Cabrera PARRILLA $$$ Pub Crawl (%15-3894-0586; www.pubcrawl
(Map p84; %011-4831-7002; www.lacabrera. ba.com).
com.ar; José Antonio Cabrera 5099; mains AR$250-
400; h12:30-4:30pm & 8:30pm-1am Sun-Thu, to BA’s boliches (nightclubs) are the throb-
2am Fri & Sat) Hugely popular for grilling up bing heart of its world-famous nightlife. To
BA’s most sublime meats. Steaks weigh in at be cool, don’t arrive before 2am (or even
400gm or 800gm and arrive with many little 3am) and dress up. Payment for admission
complimentary side dishes. Come at 7pm for and drinks is nearly always in cash only.
happy hour, when everything is 40% off –
just make sure you get here early enough to For one of BA’s biggest and most unique
score a table. Three other locations, mostly parties, check out the improvised percussion
at La Bomba de Tiempo (Map p84; www.
labombadetiempo.com; Sarmiento 3131; hMon
7pm); it’s at 7pm every Monday at Ciudad
Cultural Konex.
nearby. 6 Microcentro
Sudestada ASIAN $$$
(Map p84; %011-4776-3777; Guatemala 5602;
La Cigale COCKTAIL BAR
set lunch AR$115-130, mains AR$210-235; hnoon- (Map p58; %011-4893-2332; www.facebook.com/
lacigalebar; 25 de Mayo 597; hnoon-4pm & 6pm-
3:30pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) close) This sensuous upstairs bar-restaurant
Sudestada’s well-prepared curries, stir-fries
and noodle dishes are inspired by the cui- is popular with both office workers (during
the day) and music-industry folks (later in
sines of Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and the evening). There’s either live music or DJs
Singapore – and if you order them spicy,
they’re actually spicy. Don’t forgot an exot- most nights, but it’s best known for its ‘Minel-
ek’ night on Tuesday, when electronica and
ic cocktail or delicious lychee licuado (fruit exotic cocktails draw heavy crowds. Fusion
shake). The popular set-lunch special is
great value. foods are served for both lunch and dinner.
6 Drinking & Nightlife Café Tortoni CAFE
Cafes are an integral part of porteño life, and (Map p58; %011-4342-4328; www.cafetortoni.
you shouldn’t miss popping into one of these com.ar; Av de Mayo 829) BA’s oldest and most
beloved hangouts to sip dainty cups of coffee famous cafe, the classic Tortoni has become
and nibble biscuits with the locals. There are so popular with foreigners that it’s turned
plenty of cafes in the city, and while you’re into a tourist trap. Still, it’s practically an
walking around seeing the sights you’re obligatory stop for any visitor to town: or-
bound to run across one and find an excuse der a couple of churros (fried pastry dough)
for a break. Some cafes are old classics and with your hot chocolate and forget about the
guaranteed to take you back in time. inflated prices. There are also tango shows
(p104) nightly – reserve ahead.
94
London City CAFE tea, along with breakfast and dainty sand
wiches de miga (thin, crustless sandw iches,
(Map p58; %011-4342-9057; Av de Mayo 599; traditionally eaten at tea time). Imported
h6am-2am) This classy and historic cafe teas and coffees are sold in bulk, and a
has been serving java enthusiasts for over range of exotic herbs and spices are also
50 years, and claims to have been the spot on offer.
where Julio Cortázar wrote his first novel.
Your hardest work here, however, will most
B u e n os Ai re s D rinking & N ig h tlife likely be choosing which pastry to try with
your fresh cup of coffee. 6 San Telmo
Bahrein CLUB oBar Plaza Dorrego CAFE
(Map p58; %011-6225-2731; www.bahreinba. (Map p58; % 011-4361-0141; Defensa 1098;
h8am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 3:30am Fri & Sat)
com; Lavalle 345; hThu-Sun) Attracting a good You can’t beat the atmosphere at this tradi-
share of BA’s tattooed youth, Bahrein is a
hugely popular downtown club housed in an tional joint; sip your submarino (hot milk
with chocolate) by a picturesque window
old bank (check out the ‘vault’ in the base- and watch the world pass by, or grab a
ment). On the ground floor is the lounge-
like Funky Room where resident DJs spin table on the busy plaza. Meanwhile, tra-
ditionally suited waiters, piped-in tango
house music and electronica. Downstairs music, antique bottles and scribbled graf-
is the happening Xss discotheque, an im-
pressive sound system and a dance floor for fiti on walls and counters might take you
back in time.
hundreds.
Doppelgänger COCKTAIL BAR
6 Congreso (Map p65; %011-4300-0201; www.doppelganger.
com.ar; Av Juan de Garay 500; h7pm-2:30am
Tue-Thu, to 4am Fri, 8pm-4am Sat) This cool,
Café de los Angelitos CAFE emerald-hued corner bar is one of the only
places in BA where you can count on a per-
(Map p58; %011-4952-2320; www.cafedelos fectly mixed martini. That’s because Doppel
angelitos.com; Av Rivadavia 2100; h8am- gänger specializes in vermouth cocktails.
midnight) Originally called Bar Rivadavia, The atmosphere is calm and the lengthy
this cafe was once the haunt of poets, menu is fascinating: start with the journal-
musicians, even criminals, which is why a ist, a martini with a bitter orange twist, or
police commissioner jokingly called it ‘los channel Don Draper and go for the bar’s
angelitos’ (the angels) in the early 1900s. bestseller – an old-fashioned.
Restored to its former glory, this historic
cafe is now an elegant hangout for coffee or
tea; it also puts on tango shows (p99) in
the evening. La Puerta Roja BAR
(Map p58; %011-4362-5649; Chacabuco 733;
h5pm-late) There’s no sign at this upstairs
Clásica y Moderna CAFE bar – just look for the red door. It has a cool,
relaxed atmosphere with low lounge fur-
(Map p58; %011-4811-3676; www.clasicay niture in the main room and a pool table
moderna.com; Av Callao 892; h8am-9pm Mon- tucked behind. This is a traditional place,
Fri, 9am-9pm Sat) Catering to the literary so you won’t find fruity cocktails on the
masses since 1938, this cozy and intimate menu – but there is good international food
bookstore-restaurant-cafe continues to ooze like curries, tacos and chicken wings.
history from its atmospheric brick walls.
It’s nicely lit, serves fine, simple meals, and
offers nightly live performances of folk mu-
sic, jazz, bossa nova and tango (after 9pm). Gibraltar PUB
Mercedes Sosa (may she rest in peace), (Map p58; %011-4362-5310; Perú 895; hnoon-
4am) One of BA’s classic pubs, the Gibraltar
Susana Rinaldi and Liza Minnelli have all has a cozy atmosphere and a good bar coun-
chirped here.
ter for those traveling alone. It’s also a great
El Gato Negro TEAHOUSE place for fairly authentic foreign cuisine –
(Map p58; %011-4374-1730; Av Corrientes try the Thai, Indian or English dishes. For
1669; h9am-10pm Mon, to 11pm Tue, to midnight
Wed & Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 3-11pm Sun) Tea- a little friendly competition, head to the
pool table in the back. There are sports on
lined wooden cabinets and a spicy aroma TV, and happy hour runs from noon to 8pm
welcome you to this pleasant little sipping
paradise. Enjoy imported cups of coffee or every day.
95
6 Retiro Milión COCKTAIL BAR
(Map p70; %011-4815-9925; www.milion.com.
ar; Paraná 1048; h6pm-2am Sun-Wed, to 3am Thu,
oFlorería Atlántico COCKTAIL BAR to 4am Fri & Sat) One of BA’s most gorgeous
(Map p70; %011-4313-6093; Arroyo 872; and elegant bars, this sexy spot takes up
h7pm-close Mon-Sat) One of BA’s hottest
bars, this basement speakeasy is located three floors of a renovated old mansion.
The garden out back is a leafy paradise,
within a flower shop, adding an air of mys- overlooked by a solid balcony that holds the B u e n os Ai re s D rinking & N ig h tlife
tery and likely a main reason for its suc-
cess. Hipsters, artists, chefs, businessp eople best seats in the house. Nearby marble steps
are also an appealing place to lounge with a
and expats all flock here for the excellent frozen mojito or basil daiquiri, the tastiest
cocktails, whether classic or unique, and the
lack of gas lines means all of the delicious cocktails on the menu. The downstairs res-
taurant serves international dishes.
tapas and main dishes are cooked on the
parrilla grill.
6 Recoleta & Barrio Norte
BASA Basement Bar BAR
oPony Line Bar
(Map p70; %011-4893-9444; www.basabar. BAR
com.ar; Basavilbaso 1328) Also a fine restau- (Map p70; %011-4321-1200; www.elenapony
rant, this trendy and high-class spot sets the line.com; Posadas 1086; h11am-2am Mon-Thu, till
mood right with open spaces, dim lighting 3am Fri, 6pm-3am Sat, 5pm-1am Sun) This so-
and lounge-y sofas. Check out its cocktail phisticated, upscale and polo-inspired bar is
list – the refreshing Moscow Mule is a pleas- located in the five-star Four Seasons Hotel,
ant surprise, especially on warm days. BASA so expect a very fine experience. Drinks are
isn’t cheap, so consider dropping by during exceptional and high quality, from the arti-
happy hour (starting at 7pm on weekdays, sanal beers to exotic cocktails to fine inter-
8pm on weekends) for drink specials. Good national liquors; the food is fantastic as well.
food is also available, and DJs provide the Dress well, bring a fat wallet and come early
sounds on weekends. if you’d like to avoid the crowds; otherwise
reserve ahead.
WINE TASTING & MORE
Big on wine? There are a few ways in Buenos Aires to find out what Argentina’s best
grapes have to offer.
For private wine tastings, your best bet is with Anuva Wines (%15-5768-8589; www.
anuvawines.com). Try five boutique vintages with food pairings; it will also ship your wine
purchases to the US. For informal tastings, inquire at Pain et Vin (Map p84; %011-
4832-5654; Gorriti 5132), a casual wine and bread shop. Bar du Marché (Map p84;
%011-4778-1050; www.bardumarchepalermo.com; Nicaragua 5946; h12:30-4pm & 8pm-
midnight Mon-Sat) is a low-key bistro offering 50 wines by the glass (plus a wine store next
door), while Gran Bar Danzón (Map p70; %011-4811-1108; www.granbardanzon.com.ar;
Libertad 1161) is an upscale lounge-restaurant that also has a good selection of wines by
the glass.
Wine ‘tours’ are another good way to sample some of Argentina’s best grapes.
Try Wine Tour BA (www.winetourba.com), where you’ll sip and nibble your way
around the neighborhood of Palermo; another to try is Urban Adventures (www.
urbanadventures.com).
Some puertas cerradas (closed-door restaurants) offer fine wines with their meals;
Casa Coupage (p93), run by an Argentine sommelier couple, is especially wine
oriented. Others to try include Casa Saltshaker (p91) and i Latina (p92).
For wine shops there’s Lo de Joaquín Alberdi (p109) in Palermo – it offers
tastings as well. In San Telmo, Vinotango (Map p58; %011-4361-1101; www.vinotango.
com.ar; Estados Unidos 488; h10:30am-9pm) is a good destination. Aldo’s Vinoteca
(p87) is a restaurant that sells wines at retail prices, and offers wine flights and
weekly tastings too.
Finally, Miravida Soho (p83) is a boutique hotel that boasts a fine wine cellar and
gives wine tastings for its guests.
96
La Biela CAFE table for those serious about work. Brewing
(Map p70; %011-4804-0449; www.labiela. and espresso classes also on offer.
com; Av Quintana 600; h7am-2am Sun-Thu, to
3am Fri & Sat) A Recoleta institution, this oVictoria Brown COCKTAIL BAR
classic landmark has been serving the
porteño elite since the 1950s – when race- (Map p84; %011-4831-0831; www.victoria
car champions used to frequent the place. brownbar.com; Costa Rica 4827; h9pm-4am Tue-
The outdoor front terrace is unbeatable Sat) Secreted behind a large draped door
inside a cute coffee shop, this speakeasy
B u e n os Ai re s D rinking & N ig h tlife on a sunny afternoon, especially when the lounge serves up excellent food and tasty,
nearby weekend feria (street market) is in high-quality cocktails. It’s a very popular
full swing. Just know that this privilege will place so dress up and come early to snag a
cost 20% more. sofa or curvy table-booth. Boasts a beautiful
and sophisticated industrial-decor atmos-
Casa Bar SPORTS BAR phere; even the bathroom fittings are cre
(Map p70; %011-4816-2712; www.casabar ative. Reserve ahead for dinner.
argentina.com; Rodríguez Peña 1150; h6pm-5am
Mon-Fri, 9pm-5am Sat, 7pm-5am Sun) This recy- o878
COCKTAIL BAR
cled antique house turned sports bar offers (Map p84; %011-4773-1098; www.878bar.com.
a large selection of spirits and microbrews, ar; Thames 878; h7pm-3am Mon-Thu, to 4:30am
along with a wine list stocked with higher- Fri, 8pm-4:30am Sat & Sun) Hidden behind an
end bottles. You’ll also find nachos, pizzas unsigned door is this ‘secret’ bar, but it’s
and spicy hot wings on the menu, plus hardly exclusive. Enter a wonderland of
happy-hour specials from 7pm to 10pm. elega nt, low lounge furniture and red-brick
Casa Bar is stylish but casual – and a great walls; for whiskey lovers there are over 80
spot to watch sports on TV, especially Amer- kinds to try, but the cocktails are tasty too.
ican football and baseball. If you’re hungry, tapas are available (reserve
for dinners).
Shamrock Basement
CLUB
(Map p70; %011-4812-3584; Rodríguez Peña oVerne COCKTAIL BAR
1220; hThu-Sat) This cool but unpretentious (Map p84; %011-4822-0980; Av Medrano 1475;
subterranean club is known for first-rate h8pm-3am Tue-Thu, to 4am Fri, 9pm-4am Sat, to
DJ lineups, pounding house music and a 3am Sun) Upscale yet casual bar with slight
diverse young crowd. Thanks to the Sham- Jules Verne theme. Cocktails are the spe-
rock, the ever-popular Irish pub upstairs, cialties here, whipped up by one of BA’s best
the place sees plenty of traffic throughout bartenders, Fede Cuco. A few tables, some
the night. Come at 3am to see the club in cushy sofas and an airy outdoor patio offer a
full swing, or just descend the stairs after variety of seating options, but plant yourself
enjoying a few pints at ground level. at the bar to see drinks being made; check
out the French absinthe server. House-made
6 Palermo Negroni available.
Many hotels and restaurants in Palermo oMagdalena’s Party BAR
have great bars, such as Home Hotel (Map
p84; %011-4778-1008; www.homebuenosaires. (Map p84; %011-4833-9127; www.magdalenas
com; Honduras 5860; h8am-midnight). For the party.com; Thames 1795; h8pm-2am Mon, 11am-
hippest scene in town, head to Plaza Serrano 3am Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, to 5pm Sun) Popular
(in Palermo Viejo) and settle in at one of the bar-restaurant with laid-back atmosphere
many trendy bars surrounding the plaza. and buena onda (good vibes). DJs spin
from Thursday to Saturday nights, and with
cheap drinks this is a good preclub spot; try
oLAB Training Center & the vodka lemonade by the pitcher. Happy
Coffee Shop CAFE, COFFEE hour runs from noon to midnight daily, and
(Map p84; %011-4843-1790; www.labcafe.com. tasty expat-friendly food is served, such as
ar; Humbolt 1542; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) High
ceilings and industrial chic are hallmarks freshly ground hamburgers, California-style
burritos and organic coffee. Popular week-
of this excellent coffee shop. Choose your end brunch too.
house-roasted beans and have them run
through a chemex, aeropress, V60, kalita,
syphon or clever dripper. Mostly counter Harrison Speakeasy COCKTAIL BAR
seating, though upstairs there’s a communal (Map p84; %011-4831-0519; Malabia 1764;
h9pm-12:30am Tue & Wed, to 2am Thu, to 4am Fri
97
& Sat) Enter through a wine cellar then vault Bring a growler for refills; happy hour runs
door to one of BA’s most exclusive and ‘se- 6pm to 8:30pm.
cret’ bars. It’s a time machine to 1920s New
York, complete with candlelit atmosphere Mundo Bizarro COCKTAIL BAR
and fog-machine air. Head bartender Seba
Garcia creates some of Argentina’s best (Map p84; %011-4773-1967; Serrano 1222;
cocktails, but unless you eat beforehand at h8pm-3am Mon-Thu, 9pm-4am Fri, to 5am Sat)
Nicky’s sushi restaurant out front (ask to This red-lit, futuristically retro and stylish
‘see the wine cellar’ once you get the check) lounge bar is open pretty much all through
or charm your five-star hotel’s concierge, it’s the night on weekends, when everything B u e n os Ai re s D rinking & N ig h tlife
unlikely you’ll get in. from old-time American music to hip DJs to
jazz stirs up the air waves. If you’re feeling
peckish, check out the American-inspired
bar food, which ranges from Tex-mex to
Frank’s Bar COCKTAIL BAR
(Map p84; %011-4777-6541; www.franks-bar. burgers to hot apple pie with ice cream.
com; Arévalo 1445; h9pm-4am Wed-Sat) Very
popular plush, elegant speakeasy bar that Dance on the stripper pole after you’ve had
a few drinks.
‘requires’ a password (via telephone booth)
to get in – request it at its Facebook or Sugar SPORTS BAR
Twitter page. Inside it’s a beautiful space (Map p84; %011-4831-3276; www.sugarbuenos
aires.com; Costa Rica 4619; h7pm-5:30am Tue-
with crystal chandeliers, billowy ceiling Fri, 11am-5:30am Sat, 11am-3am Sun) This lively
drapes and exclusive feel. Classic cocktails
from before the 1930s are stirred – never expat watering hole brings in a youthful
nightly crowd with well-priced drink spe-
blended – and served to a crowd of locals cials and comfort food like chicken fingers
and foreigners.
and buffalo wings. Watch sports on the five
Antares BAR large TV screens or come on Thursdays –
(Map p84; %011-4833-9611; www.cerveza also known as ladies’ night – when things
antares.com; Armenia 1447; h7pm-4am) Thirsty
for a decent cerveza? Look no further than can get a little rowdy. On weekends, you can
roll out of bed and arrive in time for eggs
this modern but relaxed restaurant-bar with and mimosas.
Argentine-brewed ales, porters, stout and
barley wine. Order a beer flight, sample Lattente Espresso &
the brewmaster’s special-edition selection Brew Bar CAFE, COFFEE
or just enjoy the two-for-one pints during (Map p84; %011-4833-1676; www.cafelattente.
com; Thames 1891; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
happy hour. Also in Las Cañitas (Map p84; 8pm Sun) Riding on BA’s java boom is this
Arévalo 2876).
modern coffee shop serving house-roasted
El Carnal BAR beans. Order your espresso, cappuccino,
(Map p84; %011-4772-7582; www.carnalbar. Americano or latte (via aeropress or V60)
com.ar; Niceto Vega 5511; h7pm-5:30am Tue-Sat)
See and be seen on the rooftop terrace at and have a seat at one of the tall commu-
nal tables along with other hipster caf-
this ever-popular watering hole – preferably feine junkies. A few cookies and an alfajor
in the open air with an icy vodka tonic in
hand. With its bamboo lounges and billowy (cookie-type sandwich) or two are on offer.
curtains, the place can’t be beat for a cool Pachá CLUB
chill-out on a warm summer night. Early in (%011-4788-4288; Av Rafael Obligado 6151; hSat)
Popular, long-running electronica club well-
the week reggae rocks, while Thursday to known for attracting famous internation-
Saturday means pop and ’80s tunes.
al DJs who spin tunes for the sometimes
On Tap BREWERY drug-addled crowds. Laser light shows and
(Map p84; %011-4771-5424; www.ontap.com.ar; a great sound system makes the chic crowds
Costa Rica 5527; h6pm-midnight Tue-Wed & Sun,
to 1am Thu-Sat) This popular new brewery happy through the early morning light – be
sure to bring your shades and watch the sun
pours 20 Argentine microbrews on tap, in- come up from the terrace.
cluding IPAs, pilsners, stouts, wheat porters
and honey beers. It’s more of a place to enjoy
Kika CLUB
beers than to hang out – there’s only coun- (Map p84; www.kikaclub.com.ar; Honduras 5339;
ter seating and a communal table, though a hTue-Sun) Being supremely well located
few burgers and other pub food is available. near the heart of Palermo Viejo’s bar scene
98
makes Kika’s Tuesday-night popular ‘Hype’ Niceto Club CLUB
party easily accessible for the trendy crowds. (Map p84; %011-4779-9396; www.nicetoclub.
It’s a mix of electro, rock, hip-hop, drum and com; Niceto Vega 5510; hThu-Sat) One of the
bass, and dubstep, all spun by both local and city’s biggest crowd-pullers, the can’t-miss
international DJs. Other nights see electron- event at Niceto Club is Thursday night’s
ica, raggaeton, Latin beats and live bands Club 69, a subversive DJ extravaganza fea-
ruling the roost. turing gorgeously attired showgirls, dancing
B u e n os Ai re s D rinking & N ig h tlife drag queens, futuristic video installations
Jet CLUB and off-the-wall performance art. On week-
end nights, national and international spin
(%011-4872-5599; www.jet.com.ar; Avenida Rafael masters take the booth to entertain lively
Obligado 4801; hThu-Sat) Jet definitely has an crowds with blends of hip-hop, electronic
exclusive vibe that attracts celebrities and beats, cumbia and reggae.
fashionistas, so put on your best get-up or
you won’t make the dress code. Early on
you can hang in the trendy cocktail lounge, Crobar
CLUB
nibble on tapas or sushi and enjoy the mar (Map p84; %011-4778-1500; www.crobar.com.
ina view. As the night progresses, however, ar; cnr Av de la Infanta Isabell & Freyre; hFri & Sat)
the hip young clubbers start making their Stylish and spacious Crobar remains one
appearance – come after 3am for the best- of BA’s most popular nightlife spots. Friday
looking crowd. Music runs toward house usually features international DJs mashing
and electro. up the latest techno selections, while Sat-
urday is popular with the LGBT crowd and
GAY & LESBIAN BUENOS AIRES
In July 2010 Argentina became the first Latin American country to legalize same-sex
marriage. Since then BA has become a huge gay destination, lending momentum to local
events such as the Marcha del Orgullo Gay (Gay Pride Parade; www.marchadelorgullo.
org.ar; hNov) and the Queer Tango Festival (www.festivaltangoqueer.com.ar).
To mix with local gays, check out popular bars like loud Sitges (Map p84; www.face
book.com/fiestaplop; cnr Federico Lacroze & Álvarez Thomas) and casual Flux (Map p70;
%011-5252-0258; Marcelo T de Alvear 980; h7pm-3am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat). The coffee
shop Pride Cafe (Map p58; %011-4300-6435; Balcarce 869; h10am-8pm ; W) attracts
mixed crowds in San Telmo. For a fun night of guided drinking and partying, there’s Out
& About Pub Crawl (www.outandaboutpubcrawl.com).
The best nightclubs are rough-and-tumble Amerika (Map p84; %011-4865-4416;
www.ameri-k.com.ar; Gascón 1040; hFri-Sun) and sexy-beautiful Glam (Map p84; %011-
4963-2521; www.glambsas.com.ar; José Antonio Cabrera 3046; hThu-Sat) and Palacio Al
sina (Map p58; %011-4331-3231; www.palacioalsina.net; Adolfo Alsina 940; hSun, plus 1 Fri
per month). Current hot gay parties include Fiesta Plop (www.facebook.com/fiesta
plop), the monthly Fiesta Dorothy! (www.fiestadorothy.com) and Rheo (www.rheo.
com.ar). Niceto Club (p98) has a raucous Thursday night cross-dressing event.
An especially gay-friendly accommodations is Lugar Gay (Map p58; %011-4300-
4747; www.lugargay.com.ar; Defensa 1120; dm US$30, s US$50-70, d US$80-105), a casual
guesthouse that also acts as an information center. Casa Brandon (Map p84; %011-
4858-0610; www.brandongayday.com.ar; Luis Maria Drago 236; h8pm-3am Wed-Sun) is an art
gallery–cultural center.
Good general websites are www.thegayguide.com.ar and www.nighttours.com/
buenosaires. For free gay literature, look for La Otra Guía, Circuitos Cortos (www.
circuitoscortos.com.ar/mapagay) and Gay Maps (www.gmaps360.com).
There aren’t many places catering exclusively to lesbians. Try long-running and inti-
mate Bach Bar (Map p84; %15-5184-0137; José Antonio Cabrera 4390; h11pm-6am Wed-
Sun), but otherwise there are the gay spots listed above. La Fulana (www.lafulana.org.
ar) is a lesbian cultural center.
Finally, gay classes and milongas (tango academies) are given at El Beso’s La Mar-
shall Milonga (p105), Tango Queer (Map p58; www.tangoqueer.com) in San Telmo,
and Lugar Gay.
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