PDF
EUROPE’S
BEST TRIPS
40 AMAZING
ROAD TRIPS
PDF ebook
Edition 1st Edition
Release Date Mar 2017
Pages 596
Useful Links
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SCtoanytaincttuosuhcehre
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1 PLAN YOUR TRIPStart your planning here – We reveal the ultimate road trip list for Europe PLUS
the highlights you’ll discover on the way and practical advice to kick-start your trip…
IRYNA1/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Europe’s best sights and IOAN PANAITE/SHUTTERSTOCK © EUROPE Ireland Great Britain France
experiences, and the road trips AGNIESZKA SKALSKA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Tptdirmshnihertcaaevuittltemuuslelnairrmcaireen-ntes-e.ipscrbslIoaltcorae’slesofddntnovcadipedaisprludrillyneldabea,gglsdchvie,geeaiiehsllntiiwttvofdofeesur.trylhs,e Fqmmf2rru1ooooasnmmotin-urcstcmGe.l,vnieeBffiotnlur-lrtbaigrstgayiaaaeciansknnr,edtabtd.owrocsahihhlsidoitsts,rteeowcesrtviiualecdrrneydtthoing Ffcmbcwadrahimaeasfoaelntrriilrklgcltkodieeehaes-trtdrcssrwfleacuauadhuclsnpuleeslydtrcsouae,esulrrcvasttteeichsw,lneiwleadai-irtoccpegchuv.eldhaeHr-arinstttieaqsevdraoiuceunermtsaoeu.trjeudoorehenouodrawninsdd
you there. BY REGION
that will take
EUROPE IFLYIKOEU Outdoor activities Alpine mountains along the Grossglockner Road Germany
HtvAchirennrorodeweuyatnaghlrhljedaacsmgrhgoauaeunjrdendnsdcitmnlisicgefftodRswri.heyhivbinaroellopvskoniolcallaasksg,etevslsae.sst
HIGHLIGHTS Wine tasting Douro Valley Food & Wine Switzerland
Aerhcthitecture G4jro|eat Views A1rr}tBaEociRbGtrnomcfeubbyicaoRtarloemtturoeThhebsorpemhGehsnooPauimobpshenuialbteaslerepeutitaqrirderstuipgeebleuonCelsemalinmwctugairtlmTcdioadnrreengthtarLNeesiergtionneheiioannsnigoeietunsdâonaimrpodkpcmesr.iadqgnvsnhnfrtlengs.urccandeaeu–atodmEgoaaotHoileloslnd’ahulearotcmnsarfgtct,xviafitaeruelnirnhgactseceamtitcetsebscalacxryr,eplentsalhutgtaiaahynloSaga-hso,tgaceteeatnwsogveâ,onethrhehsritrnccShdaedeiLftpsidtpaedeoacy.esangnes’o,paadtsliwr,lohaBpadtelhagiafaralSrremmuec-entca-rcnletenailshreaoax.etthne,celdoo.edhlssuLsedtailsofsiihe’,gsowatn,pnstfnhaoeciegeirntmhllesleAsrhsbaduimwucuivyrCmprnlQhlppeeeeaIlwoiairtr-MosSvunreav-shksi–itioimseerejceAbs–rtrnvaeieRrbhsreihnssubacmttscfResyE.bsointoThigldoetlplm.leeiMyiualtaci’yryhlgnorncisehrdeeonirrpalueheryviogobsnfiSmoirndlmlsedsonnfytnrarpcSh,ssognHaoirCafgermsotsecnvoowfet,ueeroriutpaeAm,irTrvegcrntnoKionabpoEdegiersiashtcasstonealessseeiaainlsshigwdalm,nuit-rtrtslisathcesecnrtrsmeehsnIcAelneaaoytrtl.asauaeliei,taclrbsaradnTnhvVanJpmpsadlhevjilydskieuihiniesem.ecietporn’imsrensehssdMwotd&eifAtsduntgsenaea:s,ilöea-flcri.rcnlalycuhRI,mmma.llmaFPeeiiasLaBnfanVuangritnMpbtPegscordoneoagasdae–frdyCotiaivmenrutnndecearcioeenotesusSueryGudaanlsiatriysslsamMgcsnbmpsMssptsrltnoGooiadfhreesoicih,sa,asiedsou,denienlsetiMonmioilvnlniamonghEncsinedaccncme’–ggisdhiis’ueusegienurienmsc.retBesthepEicssaTdhrRSegtTvtaTnfMfal,oehaoruhoeogmaeloearrhhrmausopalrtrarerrcntmneuaeosnnheraaioeltreaoagtanBrsmiaoiatttoreLpnnlheidterigagoeTrksitcrasgieesrteelmtasZneeeaenscoo-stw,’.a,arsdlokae.ülhaetltoeofnlonteovnu.yrersmS’otoversioicsehcoiCsfkceunrmesoDtetrryaphi.oreostattpoyuhrRanvetilsiinaedrc,gnh WaEwdcmsoinuaeeniirdetnsnrahndtaoefcidopii-niuSeblotieoaplnvsbdivtaiaenlsiseelinouaanrapnoirp’lssiyna.fehfaodHrrtzhcoebbrrzeuisedaosarpcrad-tde,eromoiaefodtyreingidoinaomadcuusn.acpetseaoo, trnst, Swtmcaduwoieerctsiehnaotmpzdu:deoonpiranpwrtlzratoiszsoynl,ltiidtiimsnntansigneaoshkwslcsaeiciin-aktemdigrneeuptsesi.s,ltrytalyeeunsadaspdshtAeyyeclotvptouaesrc.dhyuAralidavvdere,
Italian Lakes OAucttdivoiotires History 3Tuscan Wine Tour acTnhtyodhhaoeradauasvosrceegteaneduxnirrcindsadietmew–inghtaegloetoaiarrgcceiseahodtltulathyosisnedgcignriooffrte?ueehxnsHretite.servnWtireeitebrhs’ylsaet
LT(aLrCtskCIiLahoipteomakameavsm2kwelnbpi,Ryoe:gpsoladCli’.siaTshuyti’tcsoShsrfasheMnstamdcehbdeeuuoLebteatiaorrbnininiuGginbets)alnigls;ghisrkecnoLmaqiaerttcsuojahhArcutoaehrsagyneeaeul.leir-oopltfTg,nssealauusatbhOhdthnn,srylkaualiedardpLlIieindretCtgrsneamssaldaoochcovegtalAuawkoatmaioMiirplanslnpsnoleeoodtenatadrdftdfdisyiol. 20 Epwpptbswaulrrokaiedaerthsyiahoitrisiglctneptisyhlrebng,aeoe-lmas,nweuisuwlsd.,niuarnHsgaidctfnceoenhigaed-rklsopaxasearurdtuenacgmmrsvryefaetedtomooainhnnuurctteadgrgntsurtiiit-avpr–nmatenisiaitomndayiurkeere IpehtstnccsvrhetteehaeernoiomrEdaaissnitupuettetmipeslaesrnrnelaeagoectcussnue.psie.ctnrdEixeoTtsctros,ovntclahtfercehhtovbieasarisfeeentanytaldcyhhtepwnhtteenietahlsdahnihedtsnteretrtroGasghrosaerinerrt–sullbyedodaslgaeferilisarohesclvki,ioenksuenatmsrdrhge SCahviaonutri’snpeicdtiunriensgqiune best experiences from each
enable it all. for you. vineyards. country and its road trips.
Trip 2 dCcehlelafCsrshcaeocmohkpouatpgonathesetTosaromsutnewdrhoilfe Portugal
gBritain’s Wild Side 5World Heritage popping corks. PatoilcAogonnifinulrttcdaolietlraeruutdisisnnhdgoo.ttegaemueMislcrmsa’esermhtsraaamiaaemecrnnsaiediwtxdelssiisehyctmoarvuitfbneelauleatadplrmh,tytbcct.eesaauhaT.dmsklepheteatlepnesiedcvotsloaieu,peatgvnavisaindsatnctgliyeon-fg Austria
10 ABsgprlfoiroteratissoinh,ui’-snsalcbiyrleudfsuditveinewllgreisldedeietgNorhnautetrisoosnf al WCAoroelonnsdas;eearuscmlRaoasmsnidceV’cserorosns-a’s vRoving La Rioja Wine Wustrdmposaehhofinwtgiertisthrineenst-ig,dyknf,fosnrDwaruoueahrmwcsnkitelunslyeaebgeflpretaAaarh.rlenm-potrditofenyuwatecnhdhpaderisaetmstesnlk-seaaweislijsianeantsgneetirdc,
country drive. 22
23
Parks. 9D-Day’s Beaches
Trsmehhseeoomrenevoasert;neitahtalsselooemnfxgDupsl-NaDeiounarmymwsshatyanil.lnddy’s ReaetgeiroiensBaonddevginaes,yqaurdaslittyo
xBeaAchleenstePjoort&ugaAll’sgasorvueth- h wThe Historic South the horizon. Spain Italy
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~Grossglockner Road red wines. food and wine.
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Italian Lakes Varenna, Lago di Como 11 historic drive.
21
Trip Highlights The best Inspiration Pick out Europe by Region Choose
experiences and the road the trips that best suit where to begin your
road-trip adventure.
trips to take you there. your style.
2 ON THE ROAD
40 amazing road trips – Inspirational images, local knowledge, special detours,
easy-to-read colour maps, expert advice and ways to link different trips together.
ITALY 6 WONDERS OF ANCIENT SICILY 98km to Adda
IMAGESEF/SHUTTERSTOCK © 37 PaOrrcoobRieegViaolnteallleindeesgili
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built over it.
4 p99 E35 ‚
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TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 7 DAYS ¸0 ¸0 ¸0¸0 KmA26 E35
481 KM
/ 300 MILES A8/26 LOMBARDY
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WRITER best. BCb17eeatllrhlllaaoctIIeosInaoItb’ksuewrtlhylai,ef,weni,nhatehmtnheeeitosf Ticino GF1 0¸A4 ¸0A50 0¸Milan
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e# 20 km
experience. 0¸TRIP HIGHLIGHT 0 10 miles
1 Stresa 0
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A AA8 PHOTO gardens. YOUR
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A Fribourg The verdant Emmental 1 Grand Tour | The Swiss Alps
rpeagsitoonraelxpeemrfpelicteiosn. From Stresa take From Verbania
the A8 to Milan (Milano) hgoerueataddtoenosortrsto:hfp-teeharefsegtcrftoepar etthaeks,
SAtLhtnueaconpepsreenernefre-hpacoaitrrnLncoaarkbaelme acar; K BCEUSLTTUFROER from where you can gorgeous glaciers,
402 km commence your own verdant valleys.
fdAA1 Zürich’s mighty Grand Tour of Italy.
Grindelwald Hiking at the foot of the Eiger museums and are
relentless nightlife
intoxicating.
541 45
44
Pick the right route with Get around easily with Discover even more with
inspirational images and colour maps and route detours, walking routes and
directions in easy stages.
key trip highlights. ways to link your trips.
3 ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS
Everything you need for your Europe road trip
Expert advice, practical info, language tips and more.
less than €10 El Prat Airport petrol
€ (Barcelona) gasolina f
Daily Costs €€ €10–20 Major car-rental wppaainr·radabs·rbcirsreeaees·nsmas ga·so·lee·na
Budget: Less than €80 €€€ concessions at
NEED TO Climate » Dorm bed: €20–30 more than Rental cars
KNOW €20 agencies have
arrival terminals.
CURRENCY »hoDtoelu)b: €le5r5o–o6m5i(nmhoorsetainl (Mbuaddrgiedt Be6mv.u1ein0sruyaetmsevsCteotoots1ot.t0h1€05e5acm.m9ei0nn; tiuatrt’ense.ds3r0furotnom40
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»deSledlífa-c(adtaeirlyinsgeatnmdelnuun)c:h€m10e–n1ú5 TreaaxcihstChoescte€n2tr5etion €3300mainndutes.
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Catalan, Basque and M» Didourablnegroeo:m€i8n0m-id1r7an5ge engine
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# » Lunch and/or dinner in local houses mo·tor
VISAS the countryside.
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# SGeOvOillcet–Apr PaccoacnrovamedrmtoerodedmsatoSiontnaatsoetfeftrueinnedsineadncadsotlleds, fa·ro tyre
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mansions.
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» Fine dining for lunch and Pcporriiscvteaotcefaabteadgtohourrboieloesmrinoidonimchaiwgtehitthsheeason: LaEpwovuhicatroaiholnalpmeSbesIlaaeM,nnbayucanatNndradodcrrAseatunhansroAbettermwaculeoiisdarmeiencdlpaymainntooibbrillee por favor? por fa·vor seguridad un
dinner: €150–250 Japanese systems. SPANISH BASICS child seat para niños accidente.
DWMraiylrdcmltiomtohaohtteotsusmummmeresr,sc, oclodldwwinitnetresrs BARCELONA ELSEWHERE
Cold climate Hello. Hola. o·la C¿(eManenelloymopauupeasd)he?oinwdicmare (onm(teheneleolmpmwaaep·p·d)a?e)een·dee·kar diesel gasóleo ga·so·le·o INmneececeeásnditicoaou/mna/.eumcn/hafanic.| nmee·t·hkae··nseeee··tkoo/oaon/oo·na
Goodbye. a·dyos
FUEL How are you? Adiós. ke tal EMERGENCIES hmpseeeelrtmcvrhoiecaltenisctationcmgaagesscacoásoloninliicanoera kas·ko A¿Hreaytchaerrriel bcicyicclleitnag? pathasi k?a·reel bee·thee·kle·ta
Petrol stations (usually Fine, thanks. ¿Qué tal? byen gra·syas me·ka·nee·ko I¿dsHetabhyiceaicprleaertbcaaiscm?yiecnletoparkinadgiea?b·peaer··tkhae·em·kyleen·t·atos
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per litre. €120–200 Perdón. lo syen·to ga·so·lee·ne·ra
Sorry. Lo siento.
RENTAL CARS WH»iAhgcehconmSetmoaosdGoaotnion(Jbuonok–sAouutga,npd uprbicleiscinhcoreliadseabyysu)p to 50%. less than less than Internet Access see Help! ¡Socorro!
Auto Jardim (www. € €75 €65 WaInnit-dercinasefaetvscaa(ialfaenbsdlaeirsienursmauroaes.lltylofrdegei)n.gs Yes. Sí.
autojardim.com) no dakyw/ahno·tuork?wes·ta
Hertz (www.hertz.com) €€ €75– €65–140 No. No. por fa·vor IE’smtolyopsetr.dido/a. es·toy per·dee·do/a (m/f) H¿Couwánmtouccuehsitsa it per dee·a/o·ra por
Holiday Autos (www. 200 Por favor. gra·syas día/hora? por
holidayautos.com) Please. Gracias.
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» Expect warm, dry and sunny weather; €€€ more than carretera?
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Europe-wide emergencies areas. drinks;open longer hours than €200 Money welcome. hire a … alquilar … oon to·do· Stop
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plummet. (cerveza). DIRECTIONS W¿Dhóendree’hsaay petrol statidogoann·?s·od·eleaei·onoe··nraa
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cost of a main course: centre in 20 minutes.
439
436 438
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
EUROPE’S
BEST TRIPS
40 AMAZING
ROAD TRIPS
This edition written and researched by
Belinda Dixon, Isabel Albiston, Oliver Berry,
Stuart Butler, Kerry Christiani, Fionn Davenport,
Marc Di Duca, Peter Dragicevich, Duncan Garwood,
Anthony Ham, Paula Hardy, Catherine Le Nevez,
Sally O’Brien, Josephine Quintero, Daniel Robinson,
Brendan Sainsbury, Andy Symington,
Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Nicola Williams, Neil Wilson
SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK
Top Tips History & Essential PLAN YOUR TRIP
Culture Photo
Link Family Walking Welcome to Europe.......................... 7
Your Trips Tour Europe Map....................................... 8
Tips from Food & Europe Highlights............................ 10
Locals Drink 5 Eating If You Like....................................... 20
Trip Europe by Region............................ 22
Detour 4Outdoors Sleeping
% Telephone i Internet s Swimming
Number Access Pool
h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family-
p Parking v Vegetarian Friendly
a Air- Selection
Conditioning
MAP LEGEND ON THE ROAD
RRoouutteess TTrripipss ITALY................................. 25
TTrripipRRoouuttee TrTiprip Numbers
TTrripipDDeettoouurr 1 Numbers 1 Grand
Tour................. 12–14 Days 29
FPTLWTLPSFWriornareioerilnameklilelcwmkklleewwkoaeawRdanraaRdyroyadTyyoyTyuarurtirptieype #9 TrTipriSptSotpop
2 WWalkailnkigntgotuorur 2 The Graceful Italian
place-STeecrotniadrayry Lakes...................5–7 Days 43
TLearntieary TrTipriDp eDteotuorur
LUanseealed Road 3 Tuscan Wine
HPÙ[i9go7hpwuUalaSyCCtaaNiRoppaoiintttiaauollnt(eaNlaMHtiwoaynrakl)ers Tour..........................4 Days 55
UPnlsaeza/leMdaRlload
PSlatezpa/sMall 4 A malfi
STtuepnsnel Coast........................7 Days 65
holderTPuendneesltrian 5 World Heritage
VÓU5 US (InStteartset/aPteroHvwinyce) Wonders................14 Days 75
dk44 CaCliftoyr/nLiarSgteaTteowHnwy
6 W onders of Ancient
Town/Village Sicily............... 12–14 Days 89
Hydrography
7 Italian
PeOdevestrrpiaasns AreasRiver/Creek Riviera.....................4 Days 101
OWvearlkpaTsrsack/Path InBteeramchittent River
Walk Track/Path SwCaempet/eMryangrove
Boundaries WIDCnarPFCtayneoae(t/raeCrrmSmeklrhsaeirttltittse/etrinyatn(LO)atkheer)
BoundaIrnitersnational
InStteartnea/tPioronvailnce
mapSCtalitffe/Province
Cliff GlRaecsieerrvation
Urban Area
PHoypdurloaCgtIRnairioptvaeeintprram/hlCi(ytNrteeaentkitoRniavle)r Areas BeSapcohrtsground
(TCCCSDWSoiatwtarwpayaynait/nt/taemeLa/Slr/alVapPril/gltrlM/aeogvaTiennogcwreno)ve TransFP(CCpCoaeeCAPohrrmmaiaFekrrrrbupsieetkslntottetieeniricaCtrrguyynal)a(rO/r ther)
ReTsrearinv/aRtiaoinlway
TransporInttermittent Lake
AGirlpaociretr
HighwPCFaHuaayinrbgkMilhceinuwaCglaaraykrr/eMrasrker UrTbranmArea
Sportsground
Train/Railway
Tram
Underground
Note: NoTt arall isnymSbtaoltsiodnisplayed above appear on the maps in this book
CONTENTS
FRANCE........................... 117 GREAT BRITAIN............... 203
8 Essential f The Best of
France....................21 Days 121 Britain ...................21 Days 207
9 D-Day’s g Britain’s Wild
Beaches...................3 Days 133 Side........................21 Days 221
a Atlantic to h The Historic
Med........................10 Days 143 South.. ................9–11 Days 235
b The i Classic
Pyrenees.................7 Days 153 Lakes.......................5 Days 247
c Riviera j R oyal Highlands
Crossing..................4 Days 163 & Cairngorms..... 4–5 Days 261
d C hampagne k Great
Taster.......................3 Days 175 Glen..................... 2–3 Days 271
e C hâteaux of the l West Wales: Swansea to
Loire.........................5 Days 185 St Davids.................4 Days 279
Ireland Great
p297 Britain
p203
Germany
p475
France Austria Switzerland
p117 p555 p525
Portugal Italy
p445 p25
Spain
p369
3
Contents cont.
IRELAND.......................... 297 PORTUGAL....................... 445
m Iconic w Douro Valley
Ireland.....................7 Days 301 Vineyard Trails....5–7 Days 449
n T he Long Way x Alentejo & Algarve
Round.....................14 Days 315 Beaches.............. 4–6 Days 459
o R ing of GERMANY........................ 475
Kerry........................4 Days 329
y Romantic
p The North in a Rhine....................5–7 Days 479
Nutshell.................10 Days 341
z The Romantic
q Musical Road.......................10 Days 491
Landscapes.............5 Days 353
{ German Fairy
SPAIN.............................. 369 Tale Road.................5 Days 505
r Mediterranean SWITZERLAND................ 525
Meander .................7 Days 373
| The Swiss
s Costa del Sol Beyond the Alps..........................7 Days 529
Beaches.............. 3–4 Days 389
} Geneva to
t N orthern Spain Zürich......................7 Days 541
Pilgrimage...........5–7 Days 399
AUSTRIA.......................... 555
u Historic
Castilla y León........7 Days 415 ~ Grossglockner
Road.....................5–7 Days 559
v Roving La Rioja
Wine Region....... 2–4 Days 427 ¤ Along the
Danube................ 2–4 Days 569
Switzerland Engelberg KAROLINARYSAVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
4
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Italy Duomo, Florence
6
DIRIYE AMEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
WELCOME TO
EUROPE
Europe has an embarrassment of riches.
To incomparable art and architecture, add a
vivid past. To spectacular scenery and vibrant
cities, add the finest food and wine. It’s a
place that helps you do and be what you’ve
always wanted. Hike mountain passes. Savour
wine beside sun-ripened vines. Tour palazzi
and pueblos. Linger over lunch-time people
watching. Feel you belong.
These riches are best by far discovered by car.
And the countless stops we’ve crafted into
40 road trips are your key to unlocking those
experiences. Grip the wheel in white-knuckle
mountain routes. Cruise along coast roads.
Drive historical timelines. Trace gourmet and
vineyard trails.
Trips packed with culture, cities, history,
mountains, food, beaches, wine and art –
they’re all waiting to be discovered and our
routes will guide you every stop of the way.
7
44 #^
8 444 EUROPE
444OSLO #_ HIGHLIGHTS#_STOCKHOLM
25 Giant’s Causeway 4444N O R W AY
Legends abound around this
unique geological marvel.
SCOTTISH 19 Scottish Highlands RĪGA #_ #^©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
HIGHLANDS #^ Klaipėda ^#
Offers imposing mountains,
„ emerald green glades and
glinting lochs.
Spey ^# Aberdeen SWEDEN
oselle
S C OT LAN D
Glasgow #_EDINBURGH
^#
GIANT'S
34Derry/LondondeCrrAyU#^SEW„AY
castle-Suptoonne-Thyennege COPENHAGEN _# RomKaanltiincinRghriande^#
17BELFAST #_ DENMARK
Carlisle Tmheedmievaajelsvtii#^lclaGrgivedesar, ńvwisninkedysarpdasst
^# Mysterious and compelling and castle-capped cliffs.
NORTHERN14 447 77444477444444444 8LimoCApGsauhetalsaeârtlcinwetceCetr^#akasIeao#^^#t.yRmiurokExuedsLoWDireAfo#^UvayNtaQtBhalelDuef:Lrpo#_iIfrlAmNLoetIRorabrpCesEdieserAuLrserrALPyRee#^NisslDv#^ytD:SteImw#^oFTrR:OyFpoeNtou_#hnL^#EotOn^#HhlSBIeERBtrNsEE„-iiGe^#rSNV^#mTEuL(AtPLHGce^#-iL^#AoLEn#^eL^#LrôMEgdCNtAYHhssA^#o„RNAmNa_#tC#^NmCotEDoaHiNTuvAnuLe]#EEorelgtOnIe)Leunphh^#u^#nNr^#sasSxçtwDemhoBiLOeni]#ncoRoe„iNhOrrUiereLSlsPUéRS.NAaeXEARnAiEEmLIMsSnTMSs#]StBHM_#Bw^#E#^TaOLEeE_#rRGCnrNRURopeI]#IaUDRTLtDnMtAGYAecijMyr_#oNdR#]nDDaO#^MüRmMSHsS^#AsItSNNe„raETal^#daIsCor#^bb#^raFoM^#HGfrmrBuüVaaaErrcA-mnMig#^^#eMR^#nkDkmSabezHMaf#_iUDtunnueaiuaZnrAnrnLntgtEeuotN-l^#MgbivBbpYeaeeEEuzrrrRnitfgi#^L#^uc^#IrhINtnDn#_rsSebsa#^^#rdlD^#uzerEbCcLSanPkZuu#_iznUErc#^zBgCPzPcOsLHeRoiWnIatAcCpAieerUihrnGisOooSVis:sdfU#^cTsItrtEiłBReEhcPa^#xNIaer#_^#owAyntNw,ezosdnoA#_u.ra^#aldńvBZO’e^#saRsHBaelAt#^ansUUSrTsdeKNaŁWLDeIgvOóGrnSAAeaadVtA#_L#^PrikRAźa_#RsAEólSKYzVwSIAeAATgWmegaliths laden with myths andP O LA N D
a
Oder
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444„#\ _#
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#\ Bourges _# BERN „ SWISS ALPS LJUBLJANA Osijek
31 „ 4444 4„ 4„4 „ALPvPA#_IoeBSoniCrrBr:attooOoegÉLr^#v:NaR^#^#uvee^#i#^o#^ñiodrPrai^#raDOaaFLs#^oRciaRnueT:::::#^BCeír#^nRUoroaGewLiG:::aGsroiuuAAny^#ntujTa:::::::g.OeeaLcRaMLrColoadíAdoW::::::EoéOVmiNaAaraTviTiN:::::nidn^#alidIlaeCejabaodudCoco::::::o#^olMluiBi::::dcRSnAuíta:::::rDo_#rAgny#^#^RDlto:::bIausDBane::::rcidlo^#ZLeb:eaaStarBerR::::oPao^#oLgc^#AcrSS::AaBhodB#^aeIrieaRze:::sNnblyPcaIlaeOaaaou::#^yJ\#sfRmPAxtía^#::::oi#^upVá\#GElanP::oablLanreriuoT::moannoAnLoc::ueNgiAalVeoD::ésV#\uz#]#_OèEVsGraeRTLeolaleLRf::r^#LnonCAoAcdBFtilF:^#aeeeaR#]rrPM:rm]#rAcPaaaoenelNlnmlrdloBGptoCe-anMoiraglEcaufdLnaeadyeardu#^#]:osAneRcMeGnvhEiiô#^eglDnlnneIeTTeo#]]#oIEvSnsauRESRlAoWAnCNI#]TaT^#EAunZ_#AAo^#nrIENjTiseMaRLnAstAcLLOaKAcIAENiNLoNSiDAg^##^PS#^uGCeoraMieOan#^inloaBCTanoarFlgeLo^#nOlPgiRtaen^#o^#ErraiNRuCOgTE^#ViMraie_#Ee^#MSnsI_#AitATcAeNeRMA^#NI^#SACLNaPLLYaAR#_pFOOa#^mnIillVjeeCc#^epEsroOkNom#^AnabI#^SAaoPaT_#soCstZaCoSeAStRnAHaGpO^#z^#REDnlaARBRiAzutTOECaJbISABErEro#^NGoV#^IOvBOAnV^#a&i_#I#^rkNiA
ère
Río Jú
„ALGARVE H:u#^:elv:aS^#:eviRlíloeCG^#óenridl ob^#^#a:JGaréan:nada : ::
BEACHES : #^: AAmstuanlfniinCgocaosastt_#linVeAoLf vLeErTticTaAl
: ^# : Murcia landscapes and chic resort
towns.
Fa:ro 37 Swiss Alps
: Cád:iz #^ : ^# Málaga ^# Sky-piercing mountains, Alpine 4
meadows and chocolate-box
#^ Gibraltar Almería villages.
33 Algarve Beaches TUNISIA
Fine beaches, world-class 2 Italian Lakes ALGERIA 1 Florence
syuorufrintgasatnedbusdeMsaO.foRoOdCtoOtempt Destination of choice for Boasts priceless masterpieces
Goethe, Hemingway and and Renaissance architecture.
e# 0 200 km George Clooney.
0 100 miles
9
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Europe’s best sights and
experiences, and the road trips
that will take you there.
EUROPE
HIGHLIGHTS
Italian Lakes
Italy’s northern lakes are
simply sublime. The most
picturesque and least
visited is Lago di Como
(Lake Como); a highlight of
Trip 2: The Graceful Italian
Lakes, a scenic jaunt around
Lakes Maggiore, Orta and
Como. Set in the shadow of
the Rhaetian Alps, Lago di
Como’s banks are speckled
with Liberty-style villas
and fabulous landscaped
gardens that burst into
blushing colour in April
and May.
Trip 2
10
IRYNA1/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Italian Lakes Varenna, Lago di Como
11
HIGHLIGHTS
Scottish Highlands Urquhart Castle
Scottish Paris The Amalfi
Highlands Coast
What is there to say
Scotland’s wild about the City of Light The Amalfi Coast is
places abound in that hasn’t been said a Italy’s most dazzling
breathtaking vistas: thousand times before? seafront stretch. Its
imposing mountains, Quite simply, this is one coastal road – detailed
emerald green glades, of the world’s essential in Trip 4: The Amalfi
glinting lochs – the cities: sexy, suave and Coast – curves sinuously,
scenery here is truly sophisticated. There’s a linking steeply stacked
awe-inspiring. Drive lifetime of experiences towns and rocky inlets.
right into the views on here, from the treasures All around, cliffs sheer
Trip 19: Royal Highlands of the Louvre to the down into sparkling blue
& Cairngorms, which cafes of Montmartre waters, lemons grow on
delivers castles, peaks – encounter them on hillside terraces, and
and wildlife galore – and Trip 8: Essential France, towering fichi d’India
the chance to explore the which steers you all the (prickly pears) guard
Royal family’s summer way from the chic capital silent mountain paths.
holiday haunts. to the glistening Med.
Trip 4
Trip j Trip 8
12
NITSAWAN KATERATTANAKUL/SHUTTERSTOCK © GRIMPLET/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Châteaux of the Loire Château de Chambord
BEST ROADS FOR DRIVING Châteaux of
the Loire
SS163 The ‘Nastro Azzurro’ weaves along the
For sky’s-the-limit
precipitous Amalfi Coast. Trip 4 extravagance, don’t miss
Trip 14: Châteaux of
Col d’Aubisque A route through the craggy the Loire. Constructed
by France’s aristocratic
Pyrenees; more like flying than driving. Trip b elite between the 15th
and 17th centuries, these
A939 Scottish Highlands Motor beside ski lavish mansions were
designed to show off
slopes at rollercoaster Lecht Pass. Trip j their owners’ wealth –
something they manage
The São Vicente Coast Road Cliff tops en route to achieve in spectacular
fashion. Chambord is
to Europe’s southwestern-most tip. Trip x the jewel in the crown,
but on this trip you’ll see
Silvretta High Alpine Road Brave 34 white- plenty of sparkling gems.
knuckle switchbacks 2500m high in the Austrian
Trip e
Alps. Trip ~
13
HIGHLIGHTS
Stonehenge
14
VICTOR MASCHEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Stonehenge
Mysterious and compelling,
Stonehenge is Great Britain’s
most iconic ancient site.
People have been drawn
to this myth-laden ring of
bluestones for the last 5000
years, and we still don’t know
quite why it was built. Come
up with your own theories
while gazing at massive
megaliths on Trip 17: The
Historic South, a voyage
which crosses the country
via a centuries-long timeline
through a captivating past.
Trips fh
BEST SIPS
Castello di Verrazzano
Sample Chianti Classico and
olive oil at this ancient Italian
castle. Trip 3
Épernay Explore bottle-
packed cellars in the French
town dubbed the capitale du
champagne. Trip d
Rioja Trek Tour a vineyard; sup
in a bodega; make your own
wine. Trip v
Quinta do Crasto Spectacular,
terraced vineyards on a ridge
above the Río Douro. Trip w
Engelszell Visit a 13th-century
abbey to taste monk-made
cheese and beer. Trip ¤
15
RTARN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
HIGHLIGHTS
Swiss Alps View of the Matterhorn from Zermatt
16
ALBERTO LOYO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
La Rioja Hotel Marqués de Riscal
Swiss Alps Florence La Rioja Wine
Country
You’d think after From Brunelleschi’s
motoring through 537km red-capped Duomo to La Rioja is the sort of
of mind-blowing Alpine Michelangelo’s David place where you could
scenery on Trip 37: The and Botticelli’s The Birth spend weeks searching
Swiss Alps that you had of Venus, Florence boasts out the finest drops.
seen it all. Wrong. After priceless masterpieces Bodegas offering wine
a succession of dramatic and a historic centre that tastings and villages that
green peaks, Alpine looks much as it did in shelter wine museums
lakes, glacial ravines Renaissance times. Art are the mainstays. Aside
and other hallucinatory aside, the city is perfect from scenery and fine
natural landscapes, for al fresco dining and quaffs, you’ll find plenty
you pull into your final wine drinking. And it’s of surprises (such as a
destination: Zermatt, a only part of Trip 5: World Frank Gehry–designed
highly desirable Alpine Heritage Wonders – an masterpiece in a tiny
resort built around epic exploration of Italy’s village) on Trip 31:
the incomperable finest historic cities: Roving La Rioja Wine
Matterhorn. Venice, Siena, Pisa and Region.
Rome.
Trip | Trip v
Trip 135
17
HIGHLIGHTS
Algarve Beaches The Giant’s Causeway
Beach-lovers have much to celebrate The grand geological flourish of the
on a drive along Portugal’s southern Giant’s Causeway is Northern Ireland’s
coast. Sandy islands, cliffs and shore most popular attraction and one of the
set the stage for memorable backroad world’s most startling natural wonders.
explorations on Trip 33: Alentejo & Here, you can clamber over some of
Algarve Beaches. After a day spent the 40,000 unique hexagonal basalt
surfing or frolicking in the sea, you can columns that trail off into the sea.
roll up to a beautifully sited restaurant Discover the rich legends that surround
for a seafood feast overlooking the them on Trip 23: The Long Way Round;
crashing waves. as you circumnavigate enchanting
Ireland’s entire shore.
Trip x
Trips np
18
STEFVAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
(left) Algarve beaches Alvor, near Portimão;
(below) Rhine Valley Ehrenfels Castle, near Rüdesheim
DMITRY EAGLE ORLOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
BEST CITIES
Romantic Rhine London Theatre, history, art, food:
The Rhine has long mesmerised artists, Britain’s capital has them all. Trips fh
as is illustrated by the 19th-century
paintings in Koblenz on Trip 34: Rome Unique, exquisite, romantic; the
Romantic Rhine. From Düsseldorf one-time capital of the world remains
and Cologne, the majestic river snakes
through churning whirlpools, medieval unmissable. Trips 15
villages, vineyards and castle-capped
cliffs. Your trail mirrors it, leading to Dublin Georgian charm in a vibrant,
forests and fortresses, and to evenings contemporary city. Plus 1000-plus pubs.
sipping rieslings under chestnut trees.
Trips mn
Trip y
Barcelona Playful, historic and flush
with unique art. The Spanish city of your
dreams. Trip r 19
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd AGNIESZKA SKALSKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
IF YOU
LIKE
Wine tasting Douro Valley
Architecture Great Views Art
Boasting an unparalleled Awe-inspiring mountains, Renaissance glories,
architectural legacy, sun-kissed shores, majestic Impressionist
Europe is home to some river valleys, vine-etched masterpieces, modernist
of the world’s most hills – Europe can claim marvels, landmark
celebrated masterpieces superb landscapes linked museums – Europe’s
in building design. by ribboning roads. These astonishing artistic
Romanesque cathedrals, are truly unforgettable legacy is guaranteed to
baroque palaces, drives. linger long in the memory
Georgian cities, half- after you get home.
timbered cottages, ancient 4Amalfi Coast Italy’s From Michelangelo to
monuments, cutting-edge Picasso, Europe is a sheer
creations – the wealth of most celebrated shore is a indulgence for art-lovers
buildings arrayed here will classic Mediterranean pin- and a feast for the eyes.
be a memorable part of up – simply sublime views.
your trip. 1Grand Tour Take in
jRoyal Highlands &
eChâteaux of the Loire Leonardo’s The Last Supper,
Cairngorms A sweep of Botticelli’s The Birth of
Resplendent châteaux line Venus, Michelangelo’s David
the banks of the Loire, each majestic mountains and and so much more.
one more extravagant than pine forests encircles the
the last. Queen’s Scottish summer rMediterranean
home.
hThe Historic South Meander See artwork
oRing of Kerry Virtually
Three of England’s most by Spanish greats, from
spectacular cathedrals, every corner on this iconic Picasso in Malaga to Catalan
plus London, and Bath’s Irish drive reveals a vista giants in Barcelona.
Georgian city-scape. worthy of a postcard.
}Geneva to Zürich Rich
tNorthern Spain |The Swiss Alps All
and diverse art collections
Pilgrimage Showcasing the big names are here: dot this mountanous route
Matterhorn, Eiger, Jungfrau, – encompassing everything
a string of ancient chapels Schilthorn, Titlis and Mönch. from the Renaissance to
medieval villages and some Cubism.
stunning cathedrals.
20
IOAN PANAITE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Outdoor activities Alpine mountains along the Grossglockner Road
Outdoor History Food & Wine
Activities
In Europe the past is ever With its superb produce
Europe is an adventure present. Everywhere lies and culinary traditions,
playground extraordinaire evidence of an enthralling Europe is a food- and
with landscapes that make heritage stretching back wine-lover’s dream
pretty much any activity thousands of years – from destination. Here you
possible. Hike mountain stone circles and Greek can dine al fresco in a
trails, surf gorgeous temples to battlefields, medieval piazza, feast on
beaches, go summer-time chateaux, cathedrals and seafood in a historic port,
skiing, windsurfing and castles. This history is a or nibble on cured meats
white-water rafting – our seam stitched through the in a Spanish bodega.
adrenaline-laced trips entire continent and our
enable it all. trips unravel the stories 3Tuscan Wine Tour
for you.
gBritain’s Wild Side Savour fine dining in
5World Heritage Chianti’s picturesque
A fresh-air fuelled tour of vineyards.
Britain’s best wilderness Wonders Rome’s
spots, including eight dChampagne Taster
gloriously diverse National Colosseum and Verona’s
Parks. Arena; a classic cross- Chefs cook up a storm while
country drive. cellars echo to the sound of
xAlentejo & Algarve popping corks.
9D-Day’s Beaches
Beaches Portugal’s south- vRoving La Rioja Wine
The events of D-Day still
coast stunner, offering resonate along Normandy’s Region Bodegas, quality
cliff-backed shores, seaside shores; the museums and
villages and great surf. memorials explain why. eateries and vineyards to
the horizon.
~Grossglockner Road hThe Historic South
wDouro Valley
A feat of 1930s Austrian Britain’s Stonehenge,
engineering, this road UNESCO-city Bath, sublime Vineyard Trails Northern
swings giddily around 36 cathedrals and Napoleonic-
switchbacks – opening up era ships combine for a truly Portugal’s culinary corner
mountain activities galore. historic drive. boasts sublime views and
red wines.
21
EUROPE ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
BY REGION Ireland
The emerald isle delivers
picture-postcard views
that are brooding,
dramatic and delightful
in turn. It’s a place to
revel in scenery, history,
music-filled pubs and the
stillness of village life.
These nine glorious countries Spain
have dramatically different
Passionate, sophisticated and
characters – each as irresistible devoted to living the good life,
and as exciting as the next. What Spain showcases sun-baked plains
and glittering shores, it also
to do and where do go? Here’s enables leisurely discoveries of
your guide to getting the very heritage, food, wine and art.
best experiences from each
country and its road trips.
Portugal
Portugal’s mix of the medieval
and the maritime makes
touring a real treat. The legacy
of a sometimes turbulent past
includes medieval castles, vine-
lined terraces and captivating
cities. Meanwhile, the pounding
Atlantic has sculpted a coast of
glorious sandy bays.
22
Great Britain France
From cliff-backed shores and France seduces with a somehow
quaint villages, to historic familiar culture woven around
monuments and wild, wild cafe terraces, village-square
moors., Britain boasts everything markets and lace-curtained
from Georgian architecture to bistros where the plat du jour is
21st-century art. chalked up outside. Here too find
world-class art, architecture and
delightfully scenic drives.
Germany
Here the majestic Rhine snakes
through churning whirlpools, vast
vineyards and medieval villages.
And all around storybook castles
crown jagged cliffs.
Switzerland
Switzerland is simply spectacular,
with dazzling scenery at every
turn: pristine lakes, lush
meadows, snow-dusted Alps. Add
cosmopolitan cities and you have
a country making it easy to drive
deep into its heart.
Italy Austria
Epicentre of the Roman White-knuckle Alpine passes
Empire and birthplace of the usher in a wealth of adrenaline
Renaissance, this sun-kissed sports, from year-round skiing
virtuoso serves up sublime music, to windsurfing and white-water
food and wine. rafting, while pretty castles and
dense forests frame the majestic,
mighty Danube.
23
24
Italy
FEW COUNTRIES CAN RIVAL ITALY’S
WEALTH OF RICHES. Its historic cities boast
iconic monuments and masterpieces at every
turn, its food is imitated the world over and its
landscape is a majestic patchwork of snow-
capped peaks, plunging coastlines, lakes and
remote valleys. And with many thrilling roads
to explore, it offers plenty of epic driving.
The trips outlined in this section run the length
of the country, leading from Alpine summits
to southern volcanoes, and from hilltop towns
in Tuscany to fishing villages on the Amalfi
Coast. They take in heavyweight cities and
little-known gems, and cover a wide range
of experiences. So whether you want to tour
gourmet towns, historic vineyards or idyllic
coastlines, we have a route for you.
Amalfi Coast Positano
TSOMCHAT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
GERMANY #
Italy AUSTRIA
#^ Innsbruck
4444
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#^ (M1C3ro1o4ncmtee) #^ Bologna
Genoa
GFFRANCE CROATIA
Ventimiglia 7 R Florence SAN
#_#\ MARINO Ancona
MONACO Pisa ]# #^
#^
MONACO FG3 Lago
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Montepulciano \# #^ Ascoli AdSreiaatic
Monte Amiata R
5 Perugia Piceno
FG(1736m) #]
Lago di Corno Grande
Bolsena L'Aquila R(2912m)
]#
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Viterbo R(M27o9n5tme A) maro
FRANCE
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]# Olbia
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#]
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#] #^ Cosenza #]
#] Crotone
Cagliari
]# Vibo
Valentia
Messina
]#
GFTrapani #^ Palermo Mt Etna Taormina
#] (3340m)
Marsala #\ R Ionian Sea
Pizzo R #\
Carbonara
MEDITERRANEAN #] Catania
SEA 6 (1979m)
#]
Agrigento ]# ]# Syracuse
Ragusa :
::
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26
FROG DARES/SHUTTERSTOCK © DON'T
MISS
Scrovegni Chapel
See the Renaissance
blossoming through
the tears in Giotto’s
moving frescoes for the
Scrovegni Chapel on
Trip 1
Sicily Noto Cathedral Montalcino
1 Grand Tour 12–14 Days Crowned by a 14th-
The classic cultural tour – part pilgrimage, part century fort, this hilltop
rite of passage. (p29) town produces one of
Italy’s top red wines.
2 The Graceful Italian Lakes 5–7 Days Indulge yourself on Trip
The destination of choice for Goethe, Hemingway
and George Clooney. (p43) 3
3 Tuscan Wine Tour 4 Days Vietri sul Mare
Red wine fuels this jaunt around historic Chianti
vineyards and Tuscan cellars. (p55) Bring back a piece of
the Amalfi Coast from
4 Amalfi Coast 7 Days this seaside centre,
A stunning coastline of vertical landscapes and renowned for its bright-
chic resort towns. (p65) hued ceramics, on Trip
5 World Heritage Wonders 14 Days 4
Discover the Unesco-listed treasures of Italy’s art
cities. (p75) Noto
6 Wonders of Ancient Sicily 12–14 Days Stroll one of Italy’s
Unearth Sicily’s ancient Greek temples, Byzantine most beautiful town
treasures and bewitching baroque towns. (p89) centres, admiring golden
baroque buildings in the
7 Italian Riviera 4 Days southern Sicilian sun on
Seaside bastions, palm-fringed promenades, belle
époque villas. (p101) Trip 6
27
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
uri
140
240
240
440
541
6
841
941
DAVID CLAPP/GETTY IMAGES ©
1Grand Tour
The gap-year journey of its day, the Grand Tour is a search for art
and enlightenment, adventure and debauchery.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
lL Verona ##4 555 km 12–14 DAYS
Venice 1390KM /
Turin # Marvel at 865 MILES
marble palaces
# and gold mosaics GREAT FOR…
##6 710 km BH
Florence
Siena # Enjoy the BEST TIME TO GO
world’s greatest
Viterbo # Renaissance hits Spring (March to May)
is perfect for urban
##8 sightseeing.
Rome Km##9 I ESSENTIAL
Catch up on PHOTO
2000 years of Naples
Western history Ponder the fallen in Florence’s
1070 km Pompeii and the multicoloured, marble
treasures they left behind duomo (cathedral).
1390 km
K BEST FOR
RLocmaetiIonnteCraioprtoiofnSdt ePteatielsr'tsoBgaoshiliecrae HISTORY
Rome, the repository
of over 2500 years of
European history.
29
Aosta Varese #]
#^ 0¸A26
VALLE Milan
Ll ¸0D' AOSTA
A4 #] #^
H#
Novara
Turin p32
# 0¸#^1 PIEDMONT
¸0A21 Tortona A
]# ]# Pi
1 Grand Tour Alessandria
From the Savoy palaces of Turin and Leonardo’s Last ¸0 0¸E74 A7
Supper to the dubious drinking dens of Genoa and ¸0A26
the pleasure palaces of Rome, the Grand Tour is
part scholar’s pilgrimage and part rite of passage. Cuneo Savona ##^2
Offering a chance to view some of the world’s #] Genoa
greatest masterpieces and hear Vivaldi played on ]# Golfo di
18th-century cellos, it is a rollicking trip filled with FRANCE ¸0LIGURIA Genova La
the sights, sounds and tastes that have shaped A8
European society for centuries.
#]Imperia
MONACO
Ligurian
Sea
FRANCE
Corsica
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
1 Turin First they travelled Sassari SA
through France before
In his travel guide, Voy- crossing the Alps at Mt #]
age through Italy (1670), Cenis and heading to
travel writer and tutor Turin (Torino), where Like the Medicis in
Richard Lassels advo- letters of introduction Florence (Firenze) and
cated a grand cultural admitted them to the the Borghese in Rome
tour of Europe, and in city’s agreeable Parisian- (Roma), Turin’s Savoy
particular Italy, for young style social whirl. Turin’s princes had a penchant
English aristocrats, dur- tree-lined boulevards for extravagant architec-
ing which the study of still retain their elegant, ture and interior decor.
classical antiquity and French feel and many You suspect they also
the High Renaissance turn-of-the century cafes, pined for their hunting
would ready them for such as Caffè San Carlo lodges in Chambéry,
future influential roles (Piazza San Carlo 156; h8am- France, from where they
shaping the political, eco- originated, as they
nomic and social realities midnight Tue-Fri, to 1am Sat,
of the day. to 9pm Mon), still serve
Torinese hot chocolate
beneath their gilded
chandeliers.
30
LOMBARDY GLaarkdea VENETO ]#Treviso SLOVENIA
#]Bergamo #^ Trieste
0¸]#Vicenza A4
an CROATIA
¸0#^
Brescia#] A4 Verona # #]#3 #^4 Venice
Brenta
]# Padua Riviera
¸0¸0ona A1 Mantua 0¸A13
A21 ]# ]# #] #]Ferrara
Piacenza Cremona
¸0A22
EMILIA-
ROMAGNA
#]
Modena
##^5 Bologna #]Ravenna
0¸A14
¸0a ITALY 1 Grand Tour
A1 #]
di Forlì
]# #]Rimini
I## 0¸a
La Spezia Lucca E45
#] SAN MARINO
Pisa #] ^#6 Florence ^#Ancona Adriatic
p114 Greve in Sea
Livorno ]# \# Chianti LE MARCHE
]#Arezzo
Siena ]# Perugia
TUSCANY ^#
E78 3 E45
UMBRIA
#]Grosseto
BLoalgsoendai \#Orvieto
A1
0¸FG #0¸¸0 ¸0 0¸CE Ascoli
Piceno
#]
SS4
Elba A24
ABRUZZO
Viterbo #]7 ]# Pescara
^#
¸0L'Aquila
A14
LAZIO
ica Rome #8 MOLISE
TyrrSheeanian I# #]Frosinone ]# Isernia
Foggia ]#
p112 ¸0A1
#] Benevento
Latina ]# A16
CAMPANIA
100 km ¸0Caserta]#
50 miles mK #Naples ^#9 Pompeii
e# 0
0 GF4 #\ ]#Salerno
SARDINIA ‚
invited André le Nôtre, LINK 4 Amalfi Coast
Versailles landscaper, YOUR Play truant from
to design the gardens TRIP high-minded museums
of Palazzo Reale (www. and head south from
ilpalazzorealeditorino.it; 3 Tuscan Wine Naples for the Blue
Piazza Castello; adult/reduced Tour Ribbon drive on the
€12/6, 1st Sun of month free; Amalfi Coast.
h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) Linger in the bucolic
in 1697. hills around Florence
and enjoy fine gourmet
5 p40 dining and world-
renowned wine-tasting.
31
ITALY 1 Grand Tour The Drive » The two-hour stalked by prostitutes streets in Europe. Visit
and beggars, while the the finest of them, the
(170km) drive to Genoa is all excessive shrewdness of Palazzo Spinola (www.
on autostrada, the final stretch the Genovese banking palazzospinola.beniculturali.
twisting through the mountains. families earned them a it; Piazza Superiore di Pellic-
Leave Turin following signs for reputation, according to ceria 1; adult/reduced €4/2;
the A55 (towards Alessandria), author Thomas Nugent, h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat,
which quickly merges with the as ‘a treacherous and from 1.30pm Sun) and the
A21 passing through the pretty over-reaching set of Palazzo Reale (www.
Piedmontese countryside. Just people’. palazzorealegenova.benicul
before Alessandria turn south turali.it; Via Balbi 10; adult/
onto the A26 for Genoa/Livorno. And yet with tour- reduced €4/2; h9am-7pm
ists and businessmen Tue-Sat, 1.30-7pm Sun). After
2 Genoa arriving from around the stop for sweets at Pietro
world, Genoa was, and Romanengo fu Stefano
Some travellers, shy of still is, a cosmopolitan (www.romanengo.com; Via
crossing the Alps, might place. The Rolli Palaces, Soziglia 74r; h3.30-7.30pm
arrive by boat in Genoa a collection of grand Mon, 9am-1pm & 3.15-7.15pm
(Genova). Despite its mansions originally Tue-Sat).
superb location, mild meant to host visiting
microclimate and lush popes, dignitaries and 5 p40, p107
flora, the city had a royalty, made Via Balbi
dubious reputation. Its and Strada Nuova (now The Drive » This 365km
historic centre was a Via Giuseppe Garibaldi)
warren of dark, insalubri- two of the most famous drive takes most of the day,
ous caruggi (alleys), so stop for lunch in Cremona
(p40). Although the drive is
DETOUR: on autostrada, endless fields
MILAN of corn line the route. Take the
A7 north out of Genoa and at
Start: 1 Turin (p30) Tortona exit onto the A21 around
industrial Piacenza to Brescia.
No Grand Tour would be complete without a detour At Brescia, change again onto
up the A4 to Milan (Milano) to eyeball Leonardo da the A4 direct to Padua.
Vinci’s iconic mural The Last Supper (Il Cenacolo;
%02 9280 0360; www.cenacolovinciano.net; Piazza Santa 3 Padua
Maria delle Grazie 2; adult/reduced €6.50/3.25; h8.15am-
7pm Tue-Sun; mCadorna). Advance booking is essential Bound for Venice
(booking fee €1.50). (Venezia), Grand Tour-
ists could hardly avoid
From his Portrait of a Young Man (c 1486) to visiting Padua (Padova),
portraits of Duke Ludovico Sforza’s beautiful although by the 18th
mistresses, The Lady with the Ermine (c 1489) and century international
La Belle Ferronière (c 1490), Leonardo transformed students no longer
the rigid conventions of portraiture to depict highly flocked to Palazzo del Bò
individual images imbued with naturalism. Then (%049 827 30 47; www.unipd.
he evolved concepts of idealised proportions and it/en/guidedtours; Via VIII
the depiction of internal emotional states through Febbraio; adult/reduced €7/2;
physical dynamism (St Jerome), all of which cohere hsee website for tour times),
in the masterly Il Cenacolo.. the Venetian Republic’s
radical university where
Copernicus and Galileo
taught classes.
32
You can visit the uni- TRIP HIGHLIGHT Sun winter; fSan Marco), ITALY 1 Grand Tour
versity’s claustrophobic, Venice was considered an
wooden anatomy theatre 4 Venice exciting den of debauch-
(the first in the world), ery. Venetian wives were
although it’s no longer de Top of the itinerary, Ven- notorious for keeping
rigueur to witness dissec- ice at last! Then, as now, handsome escorts (cicis-
tions on the average tour- La Serenissima’s watery beo), courtesans held
ist itinerary. Afterwards landscape captured the powerful positions at
don’t forget to pay your imagination of travellers. court and much time was
respects to the skulls At Carnivale (www.carni- devoted to frequenting
of noble professors who vale.venezia.it) in Febru- casinos and coffeehouses.
donated themselves for ary numbers swelled Caffè Florian (%041 520
dissection because of to 30,000; now they 56 41; www.caffeflorian.com;
the difficulty involved in number in the hundreds Piazza San Marco 56/59; drinks
acquiring fresh corpses. of thousands. You cannot €10-25; h9am-midnight;
Their skulls are lined up take your car onto the fSan Marco) still adheres
in the graduation hall. lagoon islands so leave to rules established in
it in a secure garage in the 1700s.
Beyond the university Mestre, such as Garage
the melancholy air of the Europa Mestre (%041 So do as the Venetians
city did little to detain 95 92 02; www.garageeuro- would do: glide down the
foreign visitors. Even pamestre.com; Corso del Grand Canal on the No
Giotto’s spectacular Popolo 55, Mestre; per day €15; 1 Vaporetto (ticket €7.50)
frescoes in the Cappella h8am-10pm), and hop on for an architectural tour
degli Scrovegni (Scrovegni the train to Venice Santa of 50 palazzi (mansions),
Chapel; %049 201 00 20; Lucia where water taxis gossip in the balconies
www.cappelladegliscrovegni. connect to all the islands. of the Teatro La Fenice
it; Piazza Eremitani 8; adult/ (%041 78 66 72, tours 041
reduced €13/6, night ticket Aside from the mind- 78 66 75; www.teatrolafenice.
€8/6; h9am-7pm), where improving art in the it; Campo San Fantin 1965;
advance reservations are theatre visits adult/reduced
essential, were of limited Gallerie dell’Accademia €10/7, concert/opera tickets
interest given medieval (%041 520 03 45; www. from €15/45; fSanta Maria
art was out of fashion, gallerieaccademia.org; Campo dei Giglio), or listen for
and only devout Catholics della Carità 1050; adult/ summer thunderstorms
ventured to revere the reduced €10/8 plus supple- in Vivaldi’s Four Seasons,
strange relics of Saint ment during special exhibitions, played by Interpreti
Anthony in the Basilica first Sun of the month free; Veneziani (%041 277 05
di Sant’Antonio (Il Santo; h8.15am-2pm Mon, to 7.15pm 61; www.interpretiveneziani.
%049 822 56 52; www.ba- Tue-Sun; fAccademia) and com; Chiesa San Vidal, Campo
silicadelsanto.org; Piazza del extraordinary architec- di San Vidal 2862; adult/re-
Santo; h6.20am-7.45pm Apr- tural masterpieces such duced €28/23; hdoors open
Oct, to 6.45pm Nov-Mar). as the Palazzo Ducale, 8.30pm; fAccademia).
the Campanile, Long-
The Drive » Barely 40km hena’s Chiesa di Santa For more earthly
Maria della Salute and pleasures take a tour of
from Venice, the drive from the glittering domes of Venice’s centuries-old
Padua is through featureless the Basilica di San Marco markets with a gourmet
areas of light industry along the (St Mark’s Basilica; %041 270 food walk.
A4 and then the A57. 83 11; www.basilicasan
marco.it; Piazza San Marco; 5 4 p40, p87
h9.45am-5pm Mon-Sat,
2-5pm Sun summer, to 4pm The Drive » Retrace your
steps to Padua on the A57 and
33
DE AGOSTINI/A. DAGLI ORTI/GETTY IMAGES ©
DEA / G. CIGOLINI/GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
PAULA HARDY,
WRITER
There’s almost no need to explain
why the Grand Tour is a classic trip.
It is the template for all modern
travel itineraries, where for the first
time people travelled for curiosity,
pleasure and learning. Covering
Italy’s show-stopping cities, it offers
travellers a view of the country’s
very best art, architecture and
antiquities, while transporting them
from alpine peaks to sun-struck
southern shores.
Top: Anatomy theatre, University of Padua
Left: Hall of Mirrors, Palazzo Reale, Genoa
Right: Teatro La Fenice, Venice
ITALY 1 Grand TourA4 and navigate around the ring
road in the direction of Bologna
JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET © to pick up the A13 southwest for
this short two-hour drive. After
Padua the dual carriageway
dashes through wide-open
farmland and crosses the Po
river, which forms the southern
border of the Veneto.
5 Bologna
Home to Europe’s oldest
university (established
in 1088) and once the
stomping ground of
Dante, Boccaccio and
Petrarch, Bologna had an
enviable reputation for
courtesy and culture. Its
historic centre, complete
with 20 soaring towers,
is one of the best-
preserved medieval cit-
ies in the world. In the
Basilica di San Petronio
(www.basilicadisanpetronio.it;
Piazza Maggiore; h7.45am-
2pm & 3-6pm), originally
intended to dwarf St Pe-
ter’s in Rome, Giovanni
Cassini’s sundial (1655)
proved the problems
with the Julian calendar
giving us the leap year,
while Bolognesi stu-
dents advanced human
knowledge in obstetrics,
natural science, zool-
ogy and anthropology.
You can peer at their
strange model wax-
works and studiously
labelled collections in
the Palazzo Poggi (www.
museopalazzopoggi.unibo.it;
Via Zamboni 33; adult/reduced
€5/3; h10am-1pm Tue-Sun
mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-4pm
Tue-Fri, 10.30am-5.30pm Sat &
Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jun).
35
ITALY 1 Grand Tour In art as in science, Maria del Fiore; www.oper- The Drive » The next 210km,
the School of Bologna aduomo.firenze.it; Piazza del
gave birth to the Car- Duomo; h10am-5pm Mon-Wed continuing south along the
racci cousins Ludovico, & Fri, to 4pm Thu, to 4.45pm Sat, A1, travels through some of
Agostino and Annibale, 1.30-4.45pm Sun) to Michel- Italy’s most lovely scenery.
who were among the angelo’s and Botticelli’s Just southwest of Florence the
founding fathers of Ital- greatest hits, David and vineyards of Greve in Chianti
ian baroque and were The Birth of Venus, in the harbour some great farmstays,
deeply influenced by the while Arezzo is to the east. At
Counter-Reformation. Galleria dell’Accademia Orvieto exit onto the SS71 and
See their emotionally (%055 29 48 83; www. skirt Lago di Bolsena for the final
charged blockbusters in firenzemusei.it; Via Ricasoli 60; 45km into Viterbo.
the Pinacoteca Nazion- adult/reduced €8/4, incl tem-
ale (www.pinacotecabologna. porary exhibition €12.50/6.25; 7 Viterbo
beniculturali.it; Via delle Belle h8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun)
Arti 56; adult/reduced €4/2; and the Galleria degli From Florence the road
h9am-1.30pm Tue & Wed, Uffizi (Uffizi Gallery; www. to Rome crossed the
2-7pm Thu-Sun). uffizi.beniculturali.it; Piazzale dreaded and pestilential
degli Uffizi 6; adult/reduced campagna (countryside),
5 4 p41 €8/4, incl temporary exhibition a swampy, mosquito-
€12.50/6.25; h8.15am- infested low-lying area.
The Drive » Bologna sits at 6.50pm Tue-Sun), Florence, Unlike now, inns en route
according to Unesco, con- were uncomfortable and
the intersection of the A1, A13 tains the highest number hazardous, so travellers
and A14. Navigate west out of of artistic masterpieces in hurried through Siena,
the city, across the river Reno, the world. stocking up on wine for
onto the A1. From here it’s a the rough road ahead.
straight shot into Florence for Whereas Rome They also stopped briefly
100km, leaving the Po plains and Milan have torn in medieval Viterbo for
behind you and entering the low themselves down and a quick douse in the
hills of Emilia-Romagna and the been rebuilt many times, thermal springs at the
forested valleys of Tuscany. incorporating a multitude Terme dei Papi (%0761 35
of architectural whims, 03 90; www.termedeipapi.it;
TRIP HIGHLIGHT central Florence looks Strada Bagni 12; pool adult/child
much as it did in 1550, €12/8, Sun €18/8; h9am-7pm
6 Florence with stone towers and Wed-Mon, plus 9pm-1am Sat),
cypress-lined gardens. and a tour of the High Re-
From Brunelleschi’s red- naissance spectacle that
tiled dome atop Florence’s 5 4 p41, p63, p86 is the Villa Lante (%0761
Duomo (Cattedrale di Santa 28 80 08; Via Jacopo Barozzi
71; adult/reduced €5/2.50;
TOP TIP: h8.30am-1hr before sunset
JUMP THE QUEUE IN Tue-Sun).
FLORENCE
The Drive » Rejoin the A1
In July, August and other busy periods such as
Easter, long queues are a fact of life at Florence’s key after a 28km drive along the
museums. For a fee of €4 each, tickets to the Uffizi rural SS675. For the next 40km
and Galleria dell’Accademia (where David lives) can the A1 descends slowly into
be booked in advance. To organise your ticket, go to Lazio, criss-crossing the river
www.firenzemusei.it or call Firenze Musei (%055 29 Tevere and keeping the ridge of
48 83; www.firenzemusei.it). the Apennines to the left as it
darts through tunnels. At Fiano
36
Romano exit for Roma Nord TOP TIP:
onto the A1dir for the final 20km ROME INFORMATION
descent into the capital. LINE
TRIP HIGHLIGHT The Comune di Roma (city council) runs a free ITALY 1 Grand Tour
multilingual information line (%06 06 08; h9am-
8 Rome 9pm), providing information on culture, shows, hotels,
transport etc. You can also book theatre, concert,
In the 18th century Rome, exhibition and museum tickets on this number. The
even in ruins, was still call centre, has staff who speak English, French,
thought of as the august Arabic, German, Spanish, Italian and Chinese
capital of the world. Here available from 4pm to 7pm.
more than anywhere
the Grand Tourist was his love poems and died at antique perfumery
awakened to an interest of consumption. Officina Profumo Farma-
in art and architecture, ceutica di Santa Maria
although the Colosseum Although the Pantheon Novella (www.smnovella.
(Colosseo; %06 3996 7700; (www.pantheonroma.com; Pi- it; Corso del Rinascimento 47;
www.coopculture.it; Piazza h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat;
del Colosseo; adult/reduced azza della Rotonda; h8.30am- gCorso del Rinascimento).
incl Roman Forum & Palatino
€12/7.50; h8.30am-1hr before 7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; 5 4 p41, p86
sunset; mColosseo) was still
filled with debris and the gLargo di Torre Argentina) The Drive » Past Rome the
Palatine Hill was covered and Vatican Museums
in gardens, its excavated (Musei Vaticani; %06 6988 landscape is hotter and drier,
treasures slowly accu- trees give way to Mediterranean
mulating in the world’s 4676; http://mv.vatican.va; shrubbery and the grass starts
oldest national museum, to yellow. Beyond the vineyards
the Capitoline Museums Viale Vaticano; adult/reduced of Frascati, just 20km south of
(Musei Capitolini; %06 06 Rome, the A1 heads straight to
08; www.museicapitolini.org; €16/8, last Sun of month free; Naples (Napoli) for 225km, a
Piazza del Campidoglio 1; adult/ two-hour drive that often takes
reduced €12/10; h9.30am- h9am-4pm Mon-Sat, 9am- much longer due to heavy traffic.
7.30pm, last admission 6.30pm;
gPiazza Venezia). 12.30pm last Sun of month; TRIP HIGHLIGHT
mOttaviano-San Pietro) were
Arriving through the a must, most travellers 9 Naples
Porta del Popolo, visitors preferred to socialise
first spied the dome of St in the grounds of the Only the more adven-
Peter’s (Basilica di San Pietro; Borghese Palace (%06 3 turous Grand Tourists
www.vatican.va; St Peter’s Sq; 28 10; www.galleriaborghese. continued south to the
h7am-7pm summer, to 6.30pm salacious city of Naples.
winter; mOttaviano-San it; Piazzale del Museo Borghese At the time Mt Vesu-
Pietro) before clattering vius glowed menacingly,
along the corso to the 5; adult/reduced €11/6.50; erupting six times during
customs house. Once the 18th century and eight
done, they headed to h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; times in the 19th century.
Piazza di Spagna, the gVia Pinciana). But Naples was the home
city’s principal meeting of opera and commedia
place where Keats penned Follow their example dell’arte (improvised
and mix the choicest comedic satire), and
sights with more venal
pleasures such as fine
dining at Open Colonna
(%06 4782 2641; www.
antonellocolonna.it; Via Milano
9a; meals €20-80; h12.30-
3.30pm Tue-Sun, 7-11.30pm
Tue-Sat; a; gVia Nazionale)
and souvenir shopping
37
JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET © singing lessons and seats
at Teatro San Carlo (%081
ITALY 1 Grand Tour 797 23 31; www.teatrosancarlo.
it; Via San Carlo 98; hbox
office 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat,
to 2pm Sun; gR2 to Via San
Carlo) were obligatory.
Then there were the
myths of Virgil and
Dante to explore at Lago
d’Averno and Campi
Flegrei (the Phlegrean
Fields). After the discovery
of Pompeii (%081 857 53
47; www.pompeiisites.org;
entrances at Porta Marina, Pi-
azza Esedra & Piazza Anfiteatro;
adult/reduced €13/7.50, incl
Herculaneum €22/12; h9am-
7.30pm summer, to 5pm winter)
in 1748, the unfolding
drama of a Roman town
in its death throes drew
throngs of visitors. Then,
as now, it was the most
popular tourist sight in
Italy and its priceless
mosaics, frescoes and
colossal sculptures filled
the Museo Archeologico
Nazionale (%081 442 21 49;
http://cir.campania.beniculturali.
it/museoarcheologiconazionale;
Piazza Museo Nazionale 19;
adult/reduced €8/4; h9am-
7.30pm Wed-Mon; mMuseo,
Piazza Cavour).
4 p41
38
Florence View of the red-tiled dome of the Duomo
39
Eating & Sleeping
ITALY 1 Grand Tour Turin 1 Venice 4
6 Fiorio Cafe 5 Dalla Marisa Venetian $$
(Via Po 8; h8.30am-1am Tue-Sun) Garner (%041 72 02 11; Fondamenta di San Giobbe
literary inspiration in Mark Twain’s old window 652b, Cannaregio; set menu lunch/dinner
seat as you contemplate the gilded interior of a €15/35; hnoon-3pm daily, 7-11pm Thu-Sat;
cafe where 19th-century students once plotted fCrea) At this Cannaregio institution, you’ll
revolutions and the Count of Cavour deftly be seated where there’s room and get no
played whist. The bittersweet hot chocolate menu – you’ll have whatever Marisa’s cooking.
remains inspirational. And you’ll like it. Lunches are a bargain at €15
for a first, main, side, wine, water and coffee –
Genoa 2 pace yourself through prawn risotto to finish
5 Trattoria della Raibetta Trattoria $$ with steak and grilled zucchini, or Marisa will
(%010 246 88 77; www.trattoriadellaraibetta. jokingly scold you over coffee.
it; Vico Caprettari 10-12; meals €35; hnoon-
2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun) Totally typica 5 Ristoteca Oniga Venetian $$
Genoese food can be found in the family-run
joints hidden in the warren of streets near the (%041 522 44 10; www.oniga.it; Campo San
cathedral. This, a snug trattoria with a low brick-
vaulted ceiling, serves regional classics such Barnaba 2852; meals €19-35; hnoon-2.30pm
as trofiette al pesto or octopus salad alongside
excellent fresh fish. & 7-10.30pm Wed-Mon; W; fCa’ Rezzonico)
Its menu peppered with organic ingredients,
Oniga serves exemplary sarde in saor (sardines
in tangy onion marinade), seasonal pastas and
the odd Hungarian classic like goulash (a nod
to former chef Annika Major). Oenophiles will
appreciate the selection of 100-plus wines,
handy for toasting to the €19 set lunch menu.
Cremona 2 Grab a sunny spot in the campo, or get cosy in a
wood-panelled corner.
5 La Sosta Osteria $$ 4 Ca’ Angeli Boutique Hotel $$
(%0372 45 66 56; www.osterialasosta.it; Via (%041 523 24 80; www.caangeli.it; Calle del
Sicardo 9; meals €35-40; h12.15-2pm Tue-Sun, Traghetto de la Madoneta 1434, San Polo; d
7.15-10pm Tue-Sat) La Sosta is surrounded €95-225, ste from €200; aW; fSan Silvestro)
by violin-makers’ workshops and is a suitably Murano glass chandeliers, a Louis XIV love-seat
harmonious place to feast on regional delicacies and namesake 16th-century angels set a refined
such as tortelli di zucca (pumpkin pasta parcels) tone at this restored, canalside palazzo. Guest
and baked snails. The entrance is plastered with rooms are a picture with beamed ceilings,
so many approving restaurant-guide stickers antique carpets and big bathrooms, while the
that you can’t see through the glass. dining room looks out onto the Grand Canal.
Breakfast includes organic products where
possible.
40
Bologna 5 Rome 8
5 All’Osteria Bottega Osteria $$ 5 Necci Cafe $$
(%051 58 51 11; Via Santa Caterina 51; meals (%06 9760 1552; www.necci1924.com; Via
€35-40; h12.30-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sat) Fanfulla da Lodi 68; dinner around €45, lunch
At this osteria truly worthy of the name, owners mains around €8; h8am-2am; W; jVia
Daniele and Valeria lavish attention on every Prenestina) Iconic Necci opened as a gelateria
table between trips to the kitchen for plates of in 1924 and later became a favourite of director
culatello di Zibello ham, tortellini in capon broth, Pier Paolo Pasolini. Good for a drink or a meal,
pork shank in red wine reduction and other it serves up sophisticated Italian cooking to an ITALY 1 Grand Tour
Slow Food delights. Desserts are homemade by eclectic crowd of all ages, with a lovely, leafy
Valeria, from the ciambella (Romagnola ring- garden terrace (ideal for families).
shaped cake) to fresh fruit sorbets. 5 Enoteca Regionale
4 Bologna nel Cuore B&B $$ Palatium Ristorante $$$
(%051 26 94 42; www.bolognanelcuore.it; Via (%06 6920 2132; Via Frattina 94; meals €55;
Cesare Battisti 29; s €80-100, d €100-140, apt h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug; gVia del
€125-130; p aW) This centrally located, Corso) A rich showcase of regional bounty, run
immaculate and well-loved B&B features a pair by the Lazio Regional Food Authority, this sleek
of bright, high-ceilinged rooms with pretty tiled wine bar serves excellent local specialities,
bathrooms and endless mod cons, plus two such as porchetta (pork roasted with herbs)
comfortable, spacious apartments with kitchen or gnocchi alla Romana con crema da zucca
and laundry facilities. Owner and art historian (potato dumplings Roman-style with cream
Maria generously shares her knowledge of of pumpkin), as well as an impressive array of
Bologna and serves breakfasts featuring jams Lazio wines (try lesser-known drops such as
made with fruit picked near her childhood home Aleatico).
in the Dolomites. 4 Hotel Scalinata di Spagna Hotel $$
Florence 6 (%06 6994 0896; www.hotelscalinata.com;
Piazza della Trinità dei Monti 17; d €130-260;
5 I Due Fratellini Sandwiches $ a iW; mSpagna) Given its location –
perched alongside the Spanish Steps – the
(%055 239 60 96; www.iduefratellini.com; Via Scalinata is surprisingly modestly priced. An
informal and friendly place, it’s something
dei Cimatori 38r; panini €3; h10am-7pm) This of a warren, with a great roof terrace and low
corridors leading off to smallish, old-fashioned
hole-in-the-wall has been in business since yet romantic rooms. Book early for a room with
a view.
1875. Wash panini down with a beaker of wine
and leave the empties on the wooden shelf
outside.
4 Palazzo Guadagni Hotel Hotel $$ Naples 9
(%055 265 83 76; www.palazzoguadagni.com; 4 Grand Hotel Vesuvio Hotel $$$
Piazza Santo Spirito 9; d €130-230; aW) This
romantic hotel overlooking Florence’s liveliest (%081 764 00 44; www.vesuvio.it; Via Partenope
summertime square is legendary – Zeffirelli
shot scenes from Tea with Mussolini here. 45; s/d €280/310; a iW; g128 to Via
Housed in an artfully revamped Renaissance
palace, it has 15 spacious if old-fashioned rooms Santa Lucia) Known for hosting legends – past
and an impossibly romantic loggia terrace with
wicker chairs and predictably dreamy views. guests include Rita Hayworth and Humphrey
Bogart – this five-star heavyweight is a
decadent melange of dripping chandeliers,
period antiques and opulent rooms. Count
your lucky stars while drinking a martini at the
rooftop restaurant.
41
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1
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4
5
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7
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RENE HARTMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK © #
The Graceful
2Italian Lakes
Writers from Goethe to Hemingway have lavished praise on the
Italian lakes, dramatically ringed by snow-powdered mountains
and garlanded by grand villas and exotic, tropical flora.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 132 km 5–7 DAYS
Bellagio 213KM / 132 MILES
36 km Bounded by classic
Cannobio gardens brimming GREAT FOR…
The prettiest medieval with camellias
hamlet on Lake BHJ
Maggiore ##6
BEST TIME TO GO
#3# # Lecco
April to June, when
Baveno Laveno Km# the camellias are in
lL## # full bloom.
#1 #5# Bergamo
I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
The cascading
gardens of Palazzo
Borromeo.
Stresa Como K BEST FOR
A perfect setting for Silk souvenirs and GLAMOUR
sunsets over the lakeside swimming
Borromean palaces 113 km Touring Bellagio’s
0 km headland in a
mahogany cigarette
boat.
LBoecllaatgioionTChaepgtiaorndednestaoiflsVtiollagMo helezried’Eril on the banks of Lago di Como 43
¸0Malesco SS337
¸0Melezzo \#
Valle
SS631 C\#annobina
Falmenta
#Parco
2 The Graceful Nazionale Cannobio 3
Italian Lakes
Val Grande À8SS34
Formed at the end of the last ice age, and a popular
holiday spot since Roman times, the Italian lakes Lago di
have an enduring natural beauty. At Lago Maggiore Mergozzo
(Lake Maggiore) the palaces of the Borromean Verbania \# Ghiffa
Islands lie like a fleet of fine vessels in the gulf, their ¸0À8 # 9ÁBavenoSS\#S3S334Pa#\ll]#a2nza
grand ballrooms and shell-encrusted grottoes once H# #lLp46 Laveno
host to Napoleon and Princess Diana, while the siren
call of Lago di Como (Lake Como) draws Arabian \#
sheikhs and Hollywood movie stars to its discreet
forested slopes. ]#1 Stresa SP394dir
R Pa
Monte
À8Mottarone
(1491m) SP1var
Lago
Lago Maggiore
d'Orta
#\ Lago di
\# Monate R
Ranco N
Orta San B
Giulio
#\ Arona
0¸E62
¸0A26
¸0
¸0A26
PIEDMONT
TRIP HIGHLIGHT Bella took the name of River Sesia
Carlo III’s wife, the
1 Stresa bella Isabella, in the 0¸A4
17th century, when its
More than Como and centrepiece, Palazzo palace, the Galleria dei
Garda, Lago Maggiore Borromeo (%0323 3 05 56; Quadri (Picture Gallery)
has retained the belle www.isoleborromee.it; Isola is hung with Old Mas-
époque air of its early ters, including Rubens,
tourist heyday. Attracted Bella; adult/child €15/8.50, Titian, Veronese and José
by the mild climate and Ribera (Spagnoletto).
the easy access the new incl Palazzo Madre adult/child
1855 railway provided, By contrast, Isola
the European haute €20.50/10; h9am-5.30pm Madre eschews ostenta-
bourgeoisie flocked to mid-Mar–mid-Oct) was built. tion for a more romantic,
buy and build grand lake- Construction of the villa familial atmosphere.
side villas. and gardens was thought The 16th- to 18th-
out in such a way that century Palazzo Madre
The star attractions the island would have the
are the Borromean appearance of a vessel,
Islands (Isole Borromee) with the villa at the prow
and their palaces. Isola and the gardens dripping
down 10 tiered terraces
at the rear. Inside the
44
R
]# Locarno ITALY 2 The Graceful Italian Lakes98km toGravedona \# ColicoAdda
\# Ascona Parco Regionale degli
BremboFG37
verna \# Orobie Valtellinesi
SWITZERLAND ‚ LCaogmo odi R Parco
Monte Regionale
¸0¸0#3 E35Olona Cassarate Á9Rezzonico #\ Legnone Bergamasche
A2 SS340dir (2609m) Enna
8À4 Luino #8À##LLuaggoandoiTremCLaeeMdnzeenznnooaa#\bgb#\g7iSiaoS3\##\40 \#6#\8 Varenna Pio Almenno
Bellagio San Salvatore
a \#
\#
Parco 8ÀSS583
Botanico 0¸SS342
San Grato
R Km#Bergamo
Monte 9
San Primo
(1685m)
no Breggia Monte SS583
Bisbino
9Á ¸0dir (1325m)
R SS340
À8 À8 0¸ 8À1var
Parco Regionale A2
Campo dei
Fiori #\
SS394 Varese Cernobbio ]# Lecco
\# Torno
di #]#4 Malnate Olgiate #\# Brunate Lago di PLuasgioandoi ALangnoondei
ate Riserva À8#\ Comasco
#\ ]#5 Como
Naturale
Brabbia Solbiate #\ Alserio
SS342
Parco Regionale
del Pineta
0¸di Apiano
0¸A8/26 E35
¸0A2 LOMBARDY
0¸Legnano #\ A8 ¸0A4
Rho ]#
FG ¸0Ticino ¸0A50
A4 ¸0Milan
^# A51
1
e# 0 20 km
0 10 miles
(%0323 3 05 56; www. LINK | The Swiss Alps
isoleborromee.it; adult/child YOUR From Verbania
€12/6.50, incl Palazzo Bor- TRIP head north-east for the
romeo €20.50/10; h9am- greatest of the great
5.30pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct) 1 Grand Tour outdoors: perfect peaks,
includes a ‘horror’ thea- From Stresa take gorgeous glaciers,
tre with a cast of devilish the A8 to Milan (Milano) verdant valleys.
marionettes, while from where you can
Chinese pheasants stalk commence your own
the English gardens. Grand Tour of Italy.
5 p53
45
ITALY 2 The Graceful Italian Lakes The Drive » Leave Stresa dendrons and camellias, the foot of the Cannobino
acres of tulip flowers and valley, the medieval ham-
westwards on the Via Sempione hothouses full of equato- let of Cannobio is located
(SS33) skirting the edge of rial lilies it is considered 5km from the Swiss
the lake for this short, 14km one of Europe’s finest border. It is a dreamy
drive. Pass through Baveno and botanical gardens. Dur- place. Piazza di Vittorio
round the western edge of the ing the last week in April, Emanuele III, lined with
gulf through the greenery of Settimana del Tulipano pastel-hued houses, is the
the Fondo Toce natural reserve. takes place, when tens of location of a huge Sun-
When you reach the junction thousands of tulips erupt day market that attracts
with the SS34, turn right for in magnificent multi- visitors from Switzer-
Verbania. coloured bloom. land. Right in the heart
of the historic centre, in
2 Verbania 5 p53 a 15th-century monas-
The Drive » Pick up the tery that later became
The late-19th-century the home of the Pironi
Villa Taranto (%0323 55 SS34 again, continuing in a family, is the atmospheric
66 67; www.villataranto.it; Via northeasterly direction out of Hotel Pironi (%0323
Vittorio Veneto 111, Verbania Verbania, through the suburbs 7 06 24; www.pironihotel.
Pallanza; adult/reduced of Intra and Pallanza. Once
€10/5.50; h8.30am-6.30pm you’ve cleared the town the it; Via Marconi 35; s €120, d
mid-Mar–Sep, 9am-4pm 20km to Cannobio are the €150-195, tr €185-230; pW).
Oct; p) sits just outside prettiest on the tour, shadowing Behind its thickset walls
Verbania. In 1931, royal the lake shore the entire way are rooms with frescoed
archer and Scottish cap- with views across the water. vaults, exposed timber
tain Neil McEacharn beams and an assortment
bought the villa from the TRIP HIGHLIGHT of tastefully decorated
Savoy family and started bedrooms.
to plant some 20,000 3 Cannobio
species. With its rolling You can hire small
hillsides of purple rhodo- Sheltered by a high sailing boats (€35/55
mountain and sitting at per one/two hours) and
make an excursion to
DETOUR: the ruined Castelli della
LAGO D’ORTA Malpaga, located on two
rocky islets to the south
Start: 1 Stresa (p44) of Cannobio. In summer
it is a favourite picnic
Separated from Lake Maggiore by Monte Mottarone spot.
(1492m) and enveloped by thick, dark-green
woodlands, Lago d’Orta would make a perfect Alternatively, explore
elopers’ getaway. At 13.4km long by 2.5km wide you the wild beauty of the
can drive around the lake in a day. The focal point is Valle Cannobina up the
the captivating medieval village of Orta San Giulio, SS631, following the
which sits across from Isola San Giulio, where you’ll surging Torrente Can-
spy the frescoed, 12th-century Basilica di San nobino stream into the
Giulio (h9.30am-6pm Tue-Sun, 2-5pm Mon Apr-Sep, heavily wooded hillsides
9.30am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun, 2-5pm Mon Oct-Mar). Come to Malesco. Just 2.5km
during the week and you’ll have the place largely to along the valley, in
yourself. Sant’Anna, the torrent
forces its way powerfully
through a narrow gorge
46
known as the Orrido di LAGO MAGGIORE EXPRESS ITALY 2 The Graceful Italian Lakes
Sant’Anna, crossed at
its narrowest part by a The Lago Maggiore Express (%091 756 04 00; www.
Romanesque bridge. lagomaggioreexpress.com; adult/child 1-day tour €34/17,
2-day tour €44/22) is a picturesque day trip you can do
The Drive » The next part of without the car. It includes train travel from Arona
or Stresa to Domodossola, from where you get the
the journey involves retracing charming Centovalli train, crossing 100 valleys, to
the previous 22km drive to Locarno in Switzerland and a ferry back to Stresa.
Verbania-Intra to board the The two-day version is perhaps better value if you
cross-lake ferry to Laveno. have the time.
Ferries run every 20 minutes
(one-way tickets cost €8 to rooms is the 1830 Salone II 54; h3-7.30pm Mon, 9am-
€13 for car and driver). Once in Impero (Empire Hall),
Laveno pick up the SP394dir with heavy chandeliers 12.30pm & 3-7.30pm Tue-Sat)
and then the SP1var and SS394 and four canvases by you can buy top-quality
for the 23km drive to Varese. David Simpson (born in scarves, ties and fabrics
1928). for a fraction of the cost
4 Varese you’d pay elsewhere.
The Drive » The 28km drive
Spread out to the south After wandering the
of the Campo dei Fiori from Varese to Como isn’t medieval alleys of the
hills, Varese is a prosper- terribly scenic, passing through historic centre take a
ous provincial capital. a string of small towns and stroll along Passeggiata
From the 17th century suburbs nestled in the wooded Lino Gelpi, where you
onwards, Milanese nobles hills. The single-lane SS342 pass a series of water-
began to build second passes through Malnate, front mansions, finally
residences here, the Solbiate and Olgiate Comasco arriving at Villa Olmo
most sumptuous being before reaching Como. (%031 25 23 52; Via Cantoni 1;
the Palazzo Estense,
completed in 1771 for TRIP HIGHLIGHT gardens free, villa entry varies
Francesco III d’Este, the
governor of the Duchy of 5 Como by exhibition; hvilla during
Milan. Although you can-
not visit the palace you Built on the wealth of exhibitions 9am-12.30pm
are free to wander the its silk industry, Como
vast Italianate gardens is an elegant town and & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, gardens
(open 8am to dusk). remains Europe’s most
important producer 7.30am-11pm summer, to 7pm
To the north of the city of silk products. The winter). Set grandly facing
sits another great villa, Museo della Seta (Silk the lake, this Como land-
Villa Panza (%0332 28 Museum; %031 30 31 80; mark was built in 1728
39 60; www.fondoambiente. www.museosetacomo.com; Via by the Odescalchi family,
it; Piazza Litta 1; adult/re- Castelnuovo 9; adult/reduced related to Pope Innocent
duced €10/5; h10am-6pm €10/7; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, XI, and now hosts block-
Tue-Sun), donated to the to 1pm Sat) unravels the buster art shows. During
state in 1996. Part of town’s industrial history, the summer the Lido di
the donation were 150 with early dyeing and Villa Olmo (%031 57 08 71;
contemporary canvases printing equipment on www.lidovillaolmo.it; Via Cer-
collected by Giuseppe display. At A Picci (%031
Panza di Biumo, mostly 26 13 69; Via Vittorio Emanuele nobbio 2; adult/reduced €8/4;
by post-WWII American h9am-7pm mid-May–Sep),
artists. One of the finest an open-air swimming
pool and lakeside bar, is
open to the public.
47
OLAF PROTZE/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES ©
MATS SILVAN/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
PAULA HARDY,
WRITER
Despite centuries of fame as
a tourist destination, there’s a
timeless glamour to the Italian lakes,
especially Lago di Como with its
mountainous amphitheatre of snow-
capped Alps. One of the best ways to
see it is to walk the old mule tracks.
There are some easy walks with
fabulous views around Brunate. Pick
up a map showing the trails from the
Como tourist office.
Top: Villa Serbelloni, Bellagio, Lago di Como
Left: Market stalls in Cannobio, Lago Maggiore
Right: The gardens of Villa Monastero, Varenna,
Lago di Como
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