The Places You Must See In This World (DK Eyewitness Travel Guides)

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e¡# # 0 ¡# Duroc ¡# St-Placide K&Luxembourg £# Panthéon # Cardinal
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On bd du Palais, elegant Conciergerie Built in stages between the 11th and
(www.monuments-nationaux.fr; 2 bd du Palais, 15th centuries, it’s on a gargantuan scale;
the interior is 130m long, 48m wide and
1er; adult/child €8.50/free, joint ticket with 35m high. Don’t miss the three rose win-
dows, the 7800-pipe organ and a walk up
Sainte-Chapelle €15; h9.30am-6pm; mCité) the gargoyle-covered Gothic towers.

is a royal palace that became a prison
and torture chamber for enemies of
the Revolution. The 14th-century Salle The Walk » Cross the river on Pont au Double

and follow rue Lagrange to bd St-Germain. Then
take rue des Carmes and rue Valette south to the
des Gens d’Armes (Cavalrymen’s Hall) place du Panthéon.
is Europe’s largest surviving medieval
hall. The nearby church of Sainte-
Chapelle (joint ticket with Conciergerie €15) Panthéon
has stunning stained glass.
Once you reach the left bank you’re in
The Walk » Continue east along rue de Lutèce, the Latin Quarter, the centre of Parisian
higher education since the Middle Ages,
then cross place du Parvis Notre Dame and walk and home to the city’s top university, the
towards the cathedral. Sorbonne. Here you’ll find the Panthéon

Cathédrale de Notre Dame (www.monum.fr; place du Panthéon, 5e; adult/

At the eastern end of Île de la Cité, show- child €8.50/free; h10am-6.30pm; mMaubert-
stopper Notre Dame (www.cathedraledeparis. Mutualité or RER Luxembourg), the neoclassi-
com; 6 place du Parvis Notre Dame, 4e; cathedral cal mausoleum where some of France’s
free, towers adult/child €8.50/free; hcathedral greatest thinkers are entombed, includ-
8am-6.45pm Mon-Fri, to 7.15pm Sat & Sun; mCité) ing Voltaire, Rousseau and Marie Curie.

is the heart of Paris – it’s from here that The Walk » Walk east to place Monge, take line
all distances in France are measured.
7 to Palais Royal Musée du Louvre, then line 1 west
to Concorde.

199

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

STRETCH Promenade des Anglais
YOUR LEGS
NICE Nice personified, the Prom seductively
blends hedonism with history, pumping
Start: Hotel Negresco, beach clubs with quiet seaside gazing.
Promenade des Anglais English expats paid out-of-work citrus
Finish: Promenade des Anglais farmers to build the Prom in 1822 – a
Distance: 5.8km civic win-win. Don’t miss the palatial
Duration: 2 hours facades of belle époque Hôtel Negresco
and art deco Palais de la Méditerranée.
Get to know Nice’s bustling heart
with this walk that begins with a The Walk » Turn up av de Verdun past palms and
seaside stroll, then takes you into
the tangled alleys of the old town, posh shops to place Masséna. Take in the elegant
and finally up and over the city’s Italian architecture, then head down the steps. Take
soaring headland to the port. Along rue de l’Opéra, a quick walk to our next stop.
the way shop, eat and drink with the
fun-loving Niçois. Rue St-François de Paule

Take this walk on Trips Window-shop, pick up snacks or shop for
gifts on this elegant street just back from
ac the seaside. First stop: Moulin à Huile
d’Olive Alziari (www.alziari.com.fr; 14 rue St-
François de Paule; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.15-7pm
Mon-Sat) for superb local olive oil, tap-
enade (olive spread) and olives. Head west
to the florid Opera House; across the
road is Henri Auer Confiserie (www.maison-
auer.com; 7 rue St-François de Paule; h9am-6pm
Tue-Sat), a film-set-perfect sweet shop;
pick up amandes enrobé (cocoa-dredged
chocolate-covered almonds).

The Walk » Continue on past soap sellers

and wine bars and into the open square. This
eventually becomes cours Saleya.

Cours Saleya

A top tourist destination that remains
Niçois to the core, this bustling market
square does different moods according
to the hour. Greet the day with espresso
and a banter with the produce and
flower sellers, lunch with locals or get
rowdy after dark with the town’s cool
kids and students.

The Walk » Any of the streets running away

from the beach take you to rue de la Préfecture.

Vieux Nice

Soak in the labyrinthine streets of
Nice’s old town, stumbling upon
Baroque gems like Cathédrale Ste-
Réparate (place Rossetti). Stop to eat
– book Le Bistrot d’Antoine (%04 93 85
29 57; 27 rue de la Préfecture; menus €25-43,

200

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MEDITESRERAANEAN

mains €15-25; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat), Promenade du Paillon
or grab an aperitif at Les Distilleries
Idéales (www.lesdistilleriesideales.fr; 24 rue It’s hard to imagine that this beautifully
de la Préfecture; h9am-12.30am) and snack landscaped park was once a bus station
at Lou Pilha Leva (%04 93 13 99 08; 10 rue and multi-storey car park. The park
du Collet; small plates €3-5; h9am-midnight; unfolds from the Théâtre National to
v). Grab a delicious ice-cream cone at place Masséna with a succession of green
Fenocchio (www.fenocchio.fr; 2 place Rossetti; spaces, play areas and water features,
1/2 scoops €2.50/4; h9am-midnight Feb-Oct). and is now a favourite among Niçois for
afternoon or evening strolls. Local kids
The Walk » Take the stairs at rue Rossetti, or love playing in the fountains, too.

the lift at rue des Ponchettes to avoid the climb. The Walk » Follow the park as it heads

Colline du Château northeast and exit onto av St-Sébastien.

On a rocky outcrop towering over Vieux Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art
Nice, the Parc du Château (h8.30am- Contemporain (MAMAC)
8pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar) offers a pano-
rama of the whole city – Baie des Anges Nice’s flagship modern art museum
on one side, the port on the other. Fabu- (www.mamac-nice.org; place Yves Klein;
lous for picnics (there’s a waterfall) or to h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) focuses is on Euro-
let the kids loose in the playground. pean and American avant-garde from
the 1950s to the present, with works
The Walk » Follow the path north through the by leading artists such as Niki de Saint
Phalle, César, Arman and Yves Klein.
park towards the cemetery, then follow Allée The building’s rooftop is also an exhibi-
Font aux Oiseaux and the Montée du Château tion space (with knockout panoramas
back into the old town. Find your way along the of the city). Then it’s back to the Prome-
backstreets to bd Jean Jaurès, and cross the road dade des Anglais for a post-walk pastis.
into Promenade du Paillon.

201



Great
Britain

GREAT BRITAIN OVERFLOWS WITH
UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES AND
SPECTACULAR SIGHTS. There’s the
grandeur of Scotland’s mountains, England’s
quaint villages and country lanes, and the
haunting beauty of Welsh coast. You’ll also find
wild northern moors, the exquisite university
colleges of Oxford and Cambridge, and a
string of vibrant cities boasting everything
from Georgian architecture to 21st-century
art.
From the world famous to the well hidden, our
trips will help you discover all the elements
that make Britain truly great. History, cities,
food, scenery, the arts – we’ve unearthed
the best experiences and crafted them into
superb drives.

Loch Ness Urquhart Castle

HIPPRODUCTIONS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ATLANTIC e#
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#_
Dublin

St George's FG FG FG GF GF GFPSetmDAabbvr#\ioBedkrsaeyr#\BnsDrtsNNea2wtBcaraaCo1atttyBmniphyioPortaWlnioBanehnsroaeatAnSk#]rl^#oaleL#÷lcP^#wloEaNE#÷narSCakExsPn÷#tamaxi^#s1orroeek6ndotaaBriG_#elfirBl#\froHmoBuau1cSyrin6ei-ra^#osnsglBntitehs-o#]aeWmba#]tlrhyumo]#eruCy#^#æ1#^th]#7h\#SetPlSuotptneo#^roe^#nr#^aORShnthtWe-fsx#^oeaAon^#mfimauvrg1nododet5orc-nhiduhnateg^#LLmhsOutBptN_#e#^torEroiDnC^#gNn1OhaG7^#NtmLoAEbSnCNar#]osDa\#iu]#dtRntbgythDC#^^#oeeeeoouIrnvpl\#brecdsnruh-wSoereCDtnysiraoca-tvl\#Siheaterierosaf
Channel

Newquay ]# #^ #] Torquay FRANCE

Land's Plymouth ENGLISH CHANNEL
Isles of End ]# Penzance

204 Scilly

IRISPHOTO1/SHUTTERSTOCK © DON'T
MISS

Hardknott Pass &
Wrynose Pass

Drive England’s two
steepest road routes,
where gradients reach

30%, on Trip i

Bath Cairngorm Sled-Dog
Centre
f The Best of Britain 21 Days
Three countries and several millennia of amazing Hanging on for dear life
history. (p207) as a team of huskies
careers along forest
g Britain’s Wild Side 21 Days trails (even when there’s
A fresh-air fuelled tour of Britain’s best wilderness
spots, including eight glorious national parks. jno snow), on Trip
(p221)
Kinlochleven
h The Historic South 9–11 Days
Three of England’s most spectacular cathedrals, Tackling the ladders and
plus London, and Bath’s Georgian cityscape. bridges of the 500m via
(p235) ferrata climbing route,
which weaves through
i Classic Lakes 5 Days the crags of Grey Mare’s
Literary links a-plenty, England’s highest hill and
utterly unforgettable views. (p247) Tail, on Trip k

j Royal Highlands & Cairngorms 4–5 Days Kidwelly Castle
Where roads swerve between majestic mountains
and the Royals come to relax. (p261) The battlements of
lesser-known Kidwelly
k Great Glen 2–3 Days prove particularly
Bewitching lakes and mountains – plus some satisfying to clamber
monster spotting at Loch Ness. (p271)
laround on Trip
l West Wales: Swansea to St Davids 4 Days
A glorious blast west beside sweeping beaches and
vast sand dunes. (p279)

205

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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STUDIO51 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Best of

15Britain

Swing through three countries and several millennia of history
as you take in a greatest hits parade of Britain’s chart-topping
sights.

#

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

##_#13 716 miles 21 DAYS
Edinburgh 1128 MILES /
# Delve into the tangle of 1815KM
alleyways around the
Carlisle Scottish capital's GREAT FOR...
Royal Mile
B
York
BEST TIME TO GO
#
Myriad festivals take
0 miles place between May
and September.
_# # Manchester London
This electrifying I ESSENTIAL
metropolis is one of PHOTO
the world's great
cities Britain’s biggest city
spread below the
284 miles # Cambridge London Eye.
Cardiff
Visit the Welsh #_#9# Oxford K BEST FOR
capital's castle, Bath # HISTORY
museums and Salisbury # #
sci-fi sights Follow atmospheric
J%##_#1 footpaths through the
world’s largest stone
# circle at Avebury.

Winchester

ELodcinabtiuornghCaVpietwionofdteh#teaiclsittyo#frgoomheCraelton Hill 207

GF49 miles to 19 ‚ Dunfermline

\#

#Glasgow Edinburgh #_13
#^

Blantyre\#

¸0Lanark #\ #\
#]
\# A702 Peebles \#
Kilmarnock
15 The Best of
Britain ]# Ayr

0¸A713

SCOTLAND

London’s bright lights and blockbuster attractions#\ ¸0Dumfries #] A74(M)
bookend this epic expedition around the British 0¸A75
mainland. In between, you’ll encounter ancient
sights, learn about fabled figures from King Arthur to Carlisle #^
Shakespeare, and visit masterpiece-filled museums
and galleries and celebrated football stadiums – #\
interleaved by quaint villages, patchworked farmland
and glorious rolling green open countryside, along Kirkcudbright
with the best of British drinking, dining and nightlife.
Keswick
#\

Whitehaven \#

Ramsey 0¸A595 FG18 #\

#\ Ambleside

Isle of
Man
#] Douglas

ISriesah Blackpool ]#

Isle of Liverpool ^#
Anglesey
#]
Beaumaris
\# Llandudno

Bangor]# \#Betws-y-Coed

Houses of Parliament #]
(www.parliament.uk;
Caernarfon
Parliament Sq, SW1;
TRIP HIGHLIGHT tWestminster), topped by Llŷn ¸0Snowdon
the Big Ben clock tower. Peninsula A494
1 London
CarBdaiygan ¸0A483 #]
Gear up for your trip
with at least a couple of Westminster Abbey WALES #\
days in Britain’s most ex-
hilarating city. Traversed (%020-7222 5152; www. #^
by the serpentine River
Thames, London is awash westminster-abbey.org; 20 0¸ ¸0AberyA4s8t7wLylatnhwrtydA470 Hay-
with instantly recognis- Wells on-Wye
able landmarks and open Dean’s Yard, SW1; adult/child \#
spaces, from Trafalgar \#
Square (tCharing Cross) to £20/9, verger tours £5, cloister PHreisllesli
the London Eye (%0871
781 3000; www.londoneye. & gardens free; h9.30am-
com; adult/child £21.20/16.10;
h10am-8pm, to 9.30pm in 4.30pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, Crickhowell
summer; tWaterloo). Other #\
unmissable sights incude: to 7pm Wed, to 2.30pm Sat; #\
Abergavenny
tWestminster)
\# 0¸M4

St James’s Park (www. Swansea#^ #Cardiff #_9
royalparks.org.uk; The Mall, Bristol
SW1; deckchairs per hr/day Channel
£1.50/7; h5am-midnight,
deckchairs daylight hours #\ 0¸M5

208 Ilfracombe

¸0A39

¸0 eA1 # 0 50 km Mar-Oct; tSt James’s Park
0 25 miles or Green Park) and Palace
(www.royal.gov.uk; Cleveland
#\ Berwick-upon-Tweed North Row, SW1; tGreen Park)
Sea
Kelso ¸0A1 Buckingham Palace
(%020-7766 7300; www.
\# \# royalcollection.org.uk;
Buckingham Palace Rd,
Melrose SW1; adult/child/under-5
£21.50/12.30/free; h9.30am-
¸0#\ Jedburgh 7.30pm late Jul–Aug, to 6.30pm
A68 Sep; tSt James’s Park,
Victoria or Green Park)
0¸A69 ^#Newcastle-upon-Tyne GREAT BRITAIN 15 The Best of Britain
Hyde Park (www.royalparks.
^# org.uk/parks/hyde-park;
h5am-midnight; tMarble
¸0M6 ¸0The ]# Durham Arch, Hyde Park Corner or
Queensway)
Pennines A68
]# Middlesbrough Kensington Gardens
¸0A66 #] Darlington (www.royalparks.org.uk/
parks/kensington-gardens;
#\ h6am-dusk; tQueensway
or Lancaster Gate) and
0¸A1 Palace (www.hrp.org.uk/
kensingtonpalace; Kensington
]# Scarborough Gardens, W8; adult/child

0¸ENGLAND 0¸A64 LINK
A65 YOUR
TRIP
0¸M6 Harrogate \# #1^#4 York
Leeds j Ro]#yal Highlands &
#^ Hull Cairngorms

Huddersfield #] Take a detour mid-trip
0¸Bolton #] to to explore classic
#] A1 ¸0A16 Scottish countryside: from
Edinburgh head two hours
^# #1#^2 Manchester ]# Lincoln north th#^rough Perthshire to
#] #\ the lovely village of Braemar.
#] Skegness
Stockport ¸0A16 #]
Warrington Sheffield
\# i Classic Lakes
A6 #] Break up the long
¸0 ¸0M6 Buxton drive between Manchester
a]#nd Edinburgh by turning
#] Stoke- Nottingham west off the M6 onto the
on-Trent A590 to^#tour the charming
^# Lake District.
¸0 ¸0A41 A46
\#
#]Shrewsbury Leicester \#Stamford
\# 209
¸0M6 ^# 0¸ 0¸A1 A10

Birmingham^# ¸0M1 0¸A6

\# Northampton #1^#5
]#
0¸Ludlow 0¸ # ¸0A435 Cambridge
A49 1\#1 Stratford- A428
upon-Avon I#

p292
# # # # # 0¸ 0¸ J# 0¸\# ^# Luton
BCGrh1li0eos#^putsoctelos#]w8te]#r Av]#eCbCuhorte7Tsylwhteeonl3dhsaUWHmfohfrOiisntxe#^eg2ftooRrndea#^WMd4ii0nndgsor#\ M11
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_#1
London
0¸ %Bath Stonehenge A34
\#
6 #^4 Winchester
I# ## #Wells p294 #]5
0¸ 0¸ ¸0A303 Salisbury
A3 A23

GREAT BRITAIN 15 The Best of Britain £16.30/free; h10am-6pm AONB (Area of Outstanding declared a cathedral by
Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb; Natural Beauty) to Oxford (59 Henry VIII.
tHigh St Kensington) miles in total).
Other highlights
World-leading, often- 2 Oxford include Oxford’s Bodleian
free museums and art Library (%01865-287400;
galleries include the Tate Oxford’s elegant honey- www.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/bodley;
Modern (www.tate.org.uk; toned buildings of the Catte St; tours £6-14; h9am-
Queen’s Walk, SE1; h10am- university’s colleges, scat- 5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun),
6pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; tered throughout the city, one of the oldest public li-
c; tBlackfriars, Southwark wrap around tranquil braries in the world, and
or London Bridge) and the courtyards and along Britain’s oldest public
British Museum (%020- narrow cobbled lanes. museum, the 1683-
7323 8299; www.british The oldest colleges date established Ashmolean
museum.org; Great Russell St, back to the 13th century Museum (%01865-
WC1; h10am-5.30pm Sat-Thu, and little has changed 278000; www.ashmolean.org;
to 8.30pm Fri; tRussell Sq or inside since, although Beaumont St; h10am-5pm
Tottenham Court Rd). there’s a busy, lively Tue-Sun), second in repute
world beyond the college only to London’s British
London’s drinking, walls. Christ Church Museum.
dining and nightlife op- (%01865-276492; www.chch.
tions are limitless (Soho ox.ac.uk; St Aldate’s; adult/ The Drive » Head southwest
and Shoreditch make child £8/7; h10am-4.15pm
great starting points), Mon-Sat, 2-4.15pm Sun) is the on the A420 to Pusey and
as are its entertain- largest of all of Oxford’s continue southwest on the
ment venues, not least colleges, with the grand- B4508. You’ll reach the car
grand theatre stages est quad. From the quad, park for the White Horse 2.3
such as Shakespeare’s you access 12th-century miles southwest of Uffington off
Globe (%020-7401 9919; Christ Church Cathedral the B4507, a 24-mile journey
www.shakespearesglobe. (%01865-276150; www.chch. altogether.
com; 21 New Globe Walk, ox.ac.uk/cathedral; St Aldate’s;
SE1; seats £10-43, standing admission free; h10am- 3 Uffington White
£5; tBlackfriars or London 4.15pm Mon-Sat, 2-4.15pm Horse
Bridge). Sun), originally the abbey
church and then the col- Just below Oxfordshire’s
4 p219 lege chapel, before it was highest point, the highly
stylised Uffington White
The Drive » Take the M40 Horse (NT; www.national-
trust.org.uk; White Horse Hill;
northwest through High hdawn-dusk) image is the
Wycombe and the Chilterns oldest chalk figure in
Britain, dating from the
TOP TIP: Bronze Age. It was cre-
LONDON’S ated around 3000 years
CONGESTION CHARGE ago by cutting trenches
out of the hill and filling
Central London levies a congestion charge (www. them with blocks of
tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/congestioncharging) from chalk; local inhabitants
7am to 6pm Monday to Friday (excluding public have maintained the fig-
holidays). Entering the ‘C’-marked zone costs £11.50 ure for centuries. Perhaps
(in advance or on the day) or £14 (by midnight on the it was planned for the
first charging day after travel). You can pay online, at gods: it’s best seen from
petrol stations or some shops. the air above. It’s a half-
mile walk east through

210

fields from the hillside naves in Europe (164m), nave. In the north aisle GREAT BRITAIN 15 The Best of Britain
car park. and highlights includ- look out for a fascinating
ing intricately carved medieval clock dating
The Drive » It’s a 49-mile medieval choir stalls, from 1386, probably the
Jane Austen’s grave oldest working timepiece
trip to Winchester: return to (near the entrance, in in the world. Don’t miss
the B4507 and drive southeast the northern aisle) and the cathedral’s original,
to Ashbury and take the one of the UK’s finest 13th-century copy of
B4000 southeast to join the illuminated manuscripts, the Magna Carta (www.
southbound A34. the dazzling, four-volume salisburycathedral.org.uk;
Winchester Bible dating Cathedral Close; h9.30am-
4 Winchester from the 12th century. 4.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-3.45pm
Book ahead for excellent Sun) in the chapter house,
Set in a river valley, tours of the ground floor, or a 90-minute tower tour
this ancient cathedral crypt and tower. (adult/child £12.50/8; pre-
city was the capital of booking essential), which
Saxon kings and a power The Drive » From Winchester, sees you climbing 332
base of bishops, and vertigo-inducing steps
evokes two of England’s hop on the B3049 then the A30 to the base of the spire
mightiest myth-makers: for the 26-mile drive west to for jaw-dropping views
famous son Alfred the Salisbury. across the city and the
Great (commemorated surrounding countryside.
by a statue) and King 5 Salisbury
Arthur (a 700-year-old The Drive » It’s just 9.6
copy of the round table Salisbury has been an
resides in Winchester’s important provincial city miles northwest from Salisbury
cavernous Great Hall for more than a thousand via the A360 to otherworldly
(%01962-846476; www. years, and its streets form Stonehenge.
hants.gov.uk/greathall; Castle an architectural timeline
Ave; suggested donation £3; ranging from medieval 6 Stonehenge
h10am-5pm), the only walls and half-timbered
part of 11th-century Win- Tudor town houses to Despite countless
chester Castle that Oliver Georgian mansions theories about this site’s
Cromwell spared from and Victorian villas. Its purpose, ranging from
destruction). centrepiece is the majestic a sacrificial centre to a
13th-century Salisbury celestial timepiece, no
Winchester’s archi- Cathedral (%01722-555120; one knows for sure what
tecture is exquisite, www.salisburycathedral.org. drove prehistoric Britons
from the handsome uk; Cathedral Close; requested to expend so much time
Elizabethan and Regency donation adult/child £7.50/ and effort constructing
buildings in the narrow none; h9am-5pm Mon- Stonehenge (EH; %0370
streets to the wondrous Sat, noon-4pm Sun). This 333 1181; www.english-heritage.
Winchester Cathedral early English Gothic–style org.uk; adult/child on-the-day
(%01962-857225; www. structure has an elaborate tickets £18/11, advance booking
winchester-cathedral.org.uk; exterior decorated with £15.50/9.30; h9am-8pm
The Close; adult/child incl cath- pointed arches and flying Jun-Aug, 9.30am-7pm Apr, May
edral body & crypt tours £8/ buttresses, and is topped & Sep, 9.30am-5pm Oct-Mar;
free; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, by Britain’s tallest spire at p); it is one of Britain’s
12.30-3pm Sun) at its core. 123m, which was added great archaeological mys-
One of southern Eng- in the mid-14th century. teries. The first phase of
land’s most awe-inspiring Beyond the cathedral’s building started around
buildings, the 11th- highly decorative West 3000 BC, when the outer
century cathedral has a Front, a small passageway circular bank and ditch
fine Gothic facade, one leads into the 70m-long were erected. A thousand
of the longest medieval
211

ANDRAS POLONYI / EYEEM / GETTY IMAGES ©

VALERY EGOROV / SHUTTERSTOCK © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
CATHERINE
LE NEVEZ, WRITER

A trip titled Best of Britain is bound
to be a classic, but what seals it for
me is its incredible sweep of history.
From neolithic-era stone circles to
a Bronze Age chalk figure, Roman
baths, medieval walls and mighty
cathedrals, wonky black-and-white
Tudor towns, multilayered cityscapes
and futuristic developments,
every era of British endeavour is
represented along this journey.

Top: Tower Bridge
Left: Stone circle, Avebury
Right:St James’s Park, London

GREAT BRITAIN 15 The Best of Britainyears later, an inner circle
of granite stones, known
MARK THOMAS / GETTY IMAGES © as bluestones, was added.

An ultramodern
makeover has brought an
impressive visitor centre
and the closure of an
intrusive road (now re-
stored to grassland). The
result is a far stronger
sense of historical con-
text; dignity and mystery
returned to an archaeo-
logical gem. A pathway
frames the ring of mas-
sive stones. Although you
can’t walk in the circle,
unless on a recommend-
ed Stone Circle Access
Visit (%0370 333 0605;
www.english-heritage.org.uk;
adult/child £32/19), you can
get close-up views. Ad-
mission is through timed
tickets – secure a place
well in advance.

The Drive » Drive east to

Durrington and take the A345
north, climbing over the grassy
Pewsey Downs National Nature
Reserve (home to another chalk
figure, the Alton Barnes White
Horse, dating from 1812), to
reach Avebury (24 miles in total).

7 Avebury

With a diameter of 348m,
Avebury (NT; %01672-
539250; www.nationaltrust.
org.uk; h24hr; p) is the
largest stone circle in the
world, and is also one of
the oldest, dating from
2500 to 2200 BC. Though
it lacks the dramatic
trilithons of its sister site
Stonehenge, the massive
stone circle is at least as
rewarding to visit. Today,
more than 30 stones are

213

GREAT BRITAIN 15 The Best of Britain in place (pillars show Gay St; adult/child £11/5.50; to the BBC studios where
where missing stones h9.45am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, the series is filmed (look
would have been) and a 10am-4pm Nov-Mar), guides for the TARDIS outside).
large section of the vil- in Regency costumes
lage is actually inside the regale you with Austen- If you time it right,
stones – footpaths wind esque tales as you tour you can catch a fired-up
around them, allowing memorabilia relating to rugby test at Cardiff’s
you to really soak up the the writer’s life in Bath. Principality Stadium (Mil-
extraordinary atmos- lennium Stadium; %029-2082
phere. National Trust– The Drive » It’s 56.5 miles 2432; www.principalitystadium.
run guided walks (£3) wales; Westgate St; tours
take place most days. from Bath to the Welsh capital. adult/child £13/9).
Take the A46 north and join the
4 p219 westbound M4 over the Severn 4 p219
The Drive » It’s a 27-mile Estuary on the six-lane, cable-
stayed Second Severn Crossing The Drive » Take the
drive along the A4 past bridge (westbound bridge traffic
patchwork fields, country pubs incurs a £6.60 toll, payable by A48 northeast for 32 miles,
and a smattering of villages cash, debit card or credit card). bypassing Newport, to riverside
to the Georgian streetscapes Chepstow.
of Bath. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
a Chepstow
8 Bath 9 Cardiff
Nestled in an S-bend in
World Heritage–listed Set between an ancient the River Wye, Chepstow
Bath was founded on top fort and ultramodern (Welsh: Cas-gwent) was
of natural hot springs waterfront, Cardiff has first developed as a base
and has been a tour- been the capital of Wales for the Norman conquest
ist draw for some 2000 since only 1955, but has of southeast Wales, later
years. Its 18th-century embraced the role with prospering as a port for
heyday saw the con- vigour and is now one of the timber and wine
struction of magnificent Britain’s leading urban trades. As river-borne
Georgian architecture centres, as you can see commerce gave way to
from the 18th century. on a stroll through its the railways, Chepstow’s
The best way to explore compact streets. importance diminished
the city’s Roman Baths to reflect its name, which
complex and beautiful The huge success of means ‘market place’ in
neoclassical buildings is the reinvented classic TV Old English.
on foot (p294). series Doctor Who has
brought Cardiff to the One of Britain’s old-
Bath is known to many attention of sci-fi fans est castles, imposing
as a location in Jane worldwide. You can find Chepstow Castle (Cadw;
Austen’s novels, including yourself sucked through www.cadw.gov.wales; Bridge
Persuasion and North- a crack in time and St; adult/child £4.50/3.40;
anger Abbey. Although thrown into the role of h9.30am-5pm Mar-Oct,
Austen lived in Bath for the Doctor’s companion 10am-4pm Nov-Feb) perches
only five years, from 1801 at the interactive, highly atop a limestone cliff
to 1806, she remained a entertaining Doctor Who overhanging the river,
regular visitor and a keen Experience (%0844 801 guarding the main river
student of the city’s social 2279; www.doctorwhoexperi crossing from England
scene. At the Jane Austen ence.com; Porth Teigr; adult/ into South Wales. Build-
Centre (%01225-443000; child £15/11; h10am-5pm ing commenced in 1067,
www.janeausten.co.uk; 40 Jul & Aug, Tue-Sun Mar-Jun, less than a year after
Sep & Oct, Wed-Sun Nov-Feb, William the Conqueror
214 last admission 3.30pm daily) invaded England, and it
exhibition, located next was extended over the

centuries. Today there willow-lined riverbanks Don’t miss a pint with GREAT BRITAIN 15 The Best of Britain
are plenty of towers, bat- is on foot. the locals at Stratford’s
tlements and wall walks oldest and most atmos-
to explore. A cave in the Combination tickets pheric pub, the 1470-built
cliff below the castle is are available for the three Old Thatch Tavern (www.
one of many places where houses associated with oldthatchtavernstratford.co.uk;
legend says King Arthur Shakespeare in town – Greenhill St; h11.30am-11pm
and his knights are nap- Shakespeare’s Birthplace, Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; W).
ping until the day they’re Shakespeare’s New Place
needed to save Britain. and Hall’s Croft. If you The Drive » The fastest
also visit the childhood
The Drive » Farmland home of Shakespeare’s route from Stratford-upon-
wife, Anne Hathaway’s Avon to Manchester is to head
makes up most of this 68-mile Cottage (%01789-204016; northwest on Birmingham Rd
drive. Head northeast on the www.shakespeare.org.uk; Cot- and pick up the northbound
A48 along the River Severn M42, which becomes the M6.
to Gloucester then continue tage Lane, Shottery; adult/child You’ll see the hilly Peak District
northeast on the A46 to National Park to your east. It’s
Stratford-upon-Avon. £10.25/6.50; h9am-5pm a 116-mile journey; this stretch
incurs road tolls totalling £3.
b Stratford-upon- mid-Mar–Oct, closed Nov–mid-
Avon Mar), and his mother’s c Manchester
farm, Mary Arden’s Farm
Experiences linked to the (%01789-204016; www. A rich blend of history
life of Stratford’s fêted and culture is on show in
son William Shakespeare shakespeare.org.uk; Station this Northern Power-
range from the touristy – house’s museums, galler-
medieval re-creations and Rd, Wilmcote; adult/child ies and innovative, mul-
Bard-themed tearooms – tigenre art centres such
to the humbling, such £13.25/8.50; h10am-5pm as HOME (%0161-200 1500;
as Shakespeare’s modest
grave in Holy Trinity mid-Mar–Oct, closed Nov–mid-
Church (%01789-266316; Mar), you can buy a com-
www.stratford-upon-avon.org; bination ticket covering
Old Town; Shakespeare’s grave all five properties.
adult/child £2/1; h8.30am-
6pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-5pm BRITAIN’S BEST FESTIVALS
Sun Apr-Sep, shorter hours
Oct-Mar). There’s also a In London, see stunning blooms at the Royal
sublime play by the Royal Horticultural Society’s Chelsea Flower Show
Shakespeare Company (www.rhs.org.uk/chelsea; Royal Hospital Chelsea; admission
(RSC; %box office 01789- from £23; hMay), military bands and bear-skinned
403493; www.rsc.org.uk; Wa- grenadiers during the martial pageant Trooping
terside; tours adult £6.50-8.50, the Colour (hJun), or steel drums, dancers and
child £3-4.50, tower adult/child outrageous costumes at the famous multicultural
£2.50/1.25; htour times vary, Caribbean-style street festival, Notting Hill Carnival
tower 10am-6.15pm Sun-Fri (www.thenottinghillcarnival.com; hAug).
10am-12.15pm & 2-6.15pm Sat
Apr-Sep, 10am-4.30pm Sun-Fri, Wales’ National Eisteddfod (%08454-090900;
10am-12.15pm & 2-4.30pm Sat www.eisteddfod.cymru; hAug) is descended from
Oct-Mar). ancient Bardic tournaments. It’s conducted in Welsh,
but welcomes all entrants and visitors. It moves
One of the best ways about each year, attracting some 150,000 visitors.
to get a feel for the
area’s Tudor streets and Edinburgh’s most famous happenings are the
International Festival (%0131-473 2000; www.eif.co.uk)
and Fringe (%0131-226 0026; www.edfringe.com), but
August also has an event for anything you care to
name – books, art, theatre, music, comedy, marching
bands… (www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk).

215

MAREMAGNUM/GETTY IMAGES ©http://homemcr.org; 2 Tony www.nationalfootballmuseum.
com; Corporation St, Urbis,
GREAT BRITAIN 15 The Best of Britain Wilson Pl, First St; tickets Cathedral Gardens; h10am-
5pm) F charts British
£5-20; hbox office noon-8pm; football’s evolution. edinburghcastle.gov.uk;
Castle Esplanade; adult/child
bar 10am-11pm Mon-Thu & Sun, The city is also world £16.50/9.90, audioguide ad-
to midnight Fri & Sat). renowned for its live- ditional £3.50; h9.30am-6pm
music scene, with gigs in Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar, last
The Manchester Art all genres most nights of admission 1hr before closing;
Gallery (%0161-235 8888; the week. g23, 27, 41, 42), which has
http://manchesterartgallery. played a pivotal role in
4 p219 Scottish history, both as
org; Mosley St; tours 20min/ a royal residence – King
The Drive » This trip’s Malcolm Canmore
1hr free/£80; h10am-5pm (r 1058–93) and Queen
longest drive, at 216 miles, Margaret first made
Mon-Wed & Fri-Sun, to 9pm takes you northwest via the M61 their home here in the
Thu) has a superb collec- and M6, passing between the
tion of British art and a Yorkshire Dales National Park
hefty number of Euro- to the east and the Lake District
pean masters. The older National Park to the west. Once
wing has an impressive you cross into Scotland the road
selection that includes becomes the A74 and climbs
37 Turner watercolours, into the Southern Uplands, then
as well as the country’s becomes the A702 as it leads
best assemblage of Pre- into Edinburgh.
Raphaelite art, while the
newer gallery is home to TRIP HIGHLIGHT
20th-century British art
starring Lucien Freud, d Edinburgh
Francis Bacon, Stanley
Spencer, Henry Moore The Scottish capital is
and David Hockney. A intimately entwined with
wonderful collection of its landscape, with build-
British watercolours are ings and monuments
displayed at Manchester’s perched atop crags and
overshadowed by cliffs.
Whitworth Art Gallery From the Old Town’s
(%0161-275 7450; www. picturesque jumble of
medieval tenements piled
whitworth.manchester.ac.uk; high along the Royal
Mile, its turreted skyline
Oxford Rd, University of Man- strung between the
black, bull-nosed Castle
chester; h10am-5pm, to 9pm Rock and the russet pali-
Thu; g), which also has sade of Salisbury Crags,
an exceptional collection to the New Town’s neat
of historic textiles. neoclassical grid, the city
offers a constantly chang-
Manchester is famed ing perspective.
for its rival football
teams Manchester Unit- Along with a walk
ed (%0161-868 8000; www. through the Old Town,
manutd.com; Sir Matt Busby unmissable experiences
here include visiting
Way; tours adult/child £18/12; Edinburgh Castle (www.

hmuseum 9.30am-5pm, tours

every 10min 9.40am-4.30pm
except match days) and
Manchester City (www.
mcfc.co.uk; Etihad Campus),
and its National Football
Museum (%0161-605 8200;

216

11th century – and as a St; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to Cardiff Principality Stadium
military stronghold; and 1am Fri & Sat; Wc; g36,
climbing to the hilltop 41), with over 100 single e York
Arthur’s Seat (Holyrood malts behind the bar.
Park; g6, 35) for city A magnificent ring
panoramas. 4 p219 of 13th-century walls
encloses York’s medieval
Edinburgh has 700- The Drive » Drive southeast narrow streets. At its
plus pubs, more per heart lies the immense,
square mile than any on the A68, passing through awe-inspiring York
other UK city. Sample a the Scottish Borders, and enter Minster (www.yorkminster.
dram of Scottish whisky Northumberland National Park org; Deangate; adult/child £10/
at icons like Malt Shovel at the English border. Join the free, incl tower £15/5; h9am-
(%0131-225 6843; www.taylor- southbound A1 at Darlington, 5.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.45-5pm
then take the eastbound A59 to Sun, last admission 30min
walker.co.uk; 11-15 Cockburn York (191 miles altogether).

217

GREAT BRITAIN 15 The Best of Britain LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: town extraordinaire,
SCOTLAND’S CRAFT GIN with a tightly packed
core of ancient colleges
Scotland is famed around the world for its whisky, and riverside ‘Backs’ (col-
but Scottish craft gin (http://ginclubscotland.com) lege gardens), which you
is also fast gaining ground. Over 70% of UK gin is can stroll around (p292).
produced in Scotland – there are more than a dozen
gin distilleries in the country, and no fewer than The colossal neoclas-
five in the Edinburgh area. Bars all over the capital sical pile containing the
are offering cocktails based on brands such as NB,
Pickering’s, Crossbill and Strathearn. Fitzwilliam Museum
(www.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk;
before closing). Built mainly through the Treas- Trumpington St; donation
between 1220 and 1480, urer’s House (NT; www. requested; h10am-5pm
it encompasses all the nationaltrust.org.uk; Chapter Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) was
major stages of Gothic ar- House St; adult/child £8/4; built to house the fabu-
chitectural development. h11am-4.30pm Apr-Oct) to lous treasures that the
The transepts (1220−55) manifestations in pubs seventh Viscount Fitzwil-
were built in Early Eng- including the Old White liam bequeathed to his
lish style; the octagonal Swan (www.nicholsonspubs. old university. Standout
chapter house (1260−90) co.uk; 80 Goodramgate; exhibits include Roman
and nave (1291–1340) in h10am-midnight Sun-Thu, to and Egyptian grave
the Decorated style; and 1am Fri & Sat); even shops goods, artworks by many
the west towers, west like the Antiques Centre of the great masters and
front and central (or (www.theantiquescentreyork. some quirkier collections
lantern) tower (1470−72) co.uk; 41 Stonegate; h9am- such as banknotes and
in Perpendicular style. 5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun) literary autographs.
are said to be haunted.
Don’t miss a walk on For the full Cambridge
York’s City Walls, which 4 p219 experience, rent a river
follow the line of the boat from operators such
original Roman walls The Drive » From York, it’s as Scudamore’s Punting
and give a new perspec- (%01223-359750; www.
tive on the city. Allow 1½ 156 miles to Cambridge. Take scudamores.com; Granta
to two hours for the full the A64 southwest to join onto Place; chauffeured punt per 45
circuit of 4.5 miles. the A1 heading southeast. min per person £16-19, 6-per-
son self-punt per hr £22-28;
York is considered f Cambridge h9am-dusk).
England’s most haunted
city, from the ghosts of Surrounded by meadows, 4 p219
Roman soldiers marching Cambridge is a university
The Drive » Hop on the M11

for the 55-mile zip to London.

218

Eating & Sleeping

London 1 renaissance-style former bank, now an
exquisite boutique hotel with 40 bedrooms
4 Hoxton Hotel Hotel £ ranging from snug to suite. Furnishings are the
perfect combination of period elegance and
(%020-7550 1000; www.hoxtonhotels.com; contemporary style. On the top floor is a small
spa with an infinity pool overlooking the town
81 Great Eastern St, EC2; r from £49; a iW; hall; downstairs is a nice bar and restaurant.

tOld St) In the heart of hip Shoreditch, this

sleek hotel takes the easyJet approach to selling GREAT BRITAIN 15 The Best of Britain

its rooms – book long enough ahead and you Edinburgh d

might pay just £49. The 210 renovated rooms 4 Southside Guest House B&B ££

are small but stylish, with flatscreen TVs, a (%0131-668 4422; www.southsideguesthouse.
co.uk; 8 Newington Rd; s/d from £80/105; W;
desk, fridge with complimentary bottled water g all Newington buses) Though set in a typical
Victorian terrace, the Southside transcends the
and milk, and breakfast (orange juice, granola, traditional guest-house category and feels more
like a modern boutique hotel. Its eight stylish
yoghurt, banana) in a bag delivered to your door. rooms ooze interior design, standing out from
other Newington B&Bs through the clever use
Avebury 7 of bold colours and modern furniture. Breakfast
is an event, with Bucks fizz (cava mixed with
4 Manor Farm B&B ££ orange juice) on offer to ease the hangover!

(%01672-539294; www.manorfarmavebury.

com; High St; s £70-80, d £90-100; pW) A rare

chance to sleep in style inside a stone circle –

this red-brick farmhouse snuggles just inside

Avebury henge. The elegant, comfy rooms blend

old woods with bright furnishings, while the York e

windows provide spine-tingling views of those

4000-year-old standing stones. 4 Hedley House Hotel Hotel ££

(%01904-637404; www.hedleyhouse.com; 3

Cardiff 9 Bootham Tce; d/f from £105/115; pWc)

4 Lincoln House This redbrick terrace-house hotel sports a

Hotel ££ variety of smartly refurbished, family-friendly

(%029-2039 5558; www.lincolnhotel.co.uk; accommodation, including rooms that sleep up to

118 Cathedral Rd, Pontcanna; r £90-150; pW) five, and some self-catering apartments – plus it

Walking a middle line between a large B&B and has a sauna and spa bath on the outdoor terrace

a small hotel, Lincoln House is a generously at the back, and is barely five minutes’ walk from

proportioned Victorian property with heraldic the city centre through the Museum Gardens.

emblems in the stained-glass windows of its

sitting room, and a separate bar. For added Cambridge f

romance, book a four-poster room.

4 Worth House B&B ££

Manchester c (%01223-316074; www.worth-house.co.uk; 152

4 King Street Chesterton Rd; s £75-85, d £95-145; pW) The

welcome is wonderfully warm, the great-value

Townhouse Boutique Hotel £££ rooms utterly delightful. Soft grey and cream

(%0161-667 0707; www.eclectichotels. meets candy-stripe reds, fancy bathrooms

co.uk; 10 Booth St; r from £210, ste from £350; boast claw-foot baths and tea trays are full of

a iWs) Arguably the city centre’s treats. There’s also a three-person, self-catering

finest lodgings is in this beautiful 1872 Italian apartment (per week £550) two doors down.

219

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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VWB PHOTOS / GETTY IMAGES ©

Britain’s Wild

16Side

Take a drive on the wild side on this tri-country trip through
Britain’s glorious national parks and protected Areas of
Outstanding Natural Beauty.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 1290 miles 21 DAYS
1435 MILES /
mK Cairngorms 2310KM
National Park
Isle of Skye # Inverness]# Explore Britain's GREAT FOR...
biggest – and loftiest –
#15 J
national park
BEST TIME TO GO
1007 miles ^# #_EDINBURGH
Glasgow June to September
offers the best
#13 conditions for outdoor
activities.
Kielder Water & ^#
Forest Park Carlisle I ESSENTIAL
Stargaze at PHOTO
state-of-the-art
Kielder Observatory Cornwall’s Bedruthan
Steps at sunset.
^# Manchester
K BEST FOR
Bangor ]# WILDLIFE

432 miles Ll##_6 ^#Bristol Spot wild red deer,
# New especially in autumn, at
Brecon Beacons Exeter Forest Exmoor National Park.
National Park ^#
Discover the four
completely different
facets of the Brecon
Beacons

CLoacirantgioonrmCsapNtiaotniodneatlaiPlsartok gRoivheer rSepey, Aviemore 221

Isle of MTihnech Gairloch
Harris
North \#

KmUist
#Isle of Skye 16 FGKyle of 20
Dunvegan\# Por#\tree #]
Lochalsh
¸0South Broadford#\ \#
16 Britain’s Wild A87 Fo\#rt
Side Uist Augustus
Mallaig #\
Leave the city lights behind on this adventure into
Britain’s natural heartland. On this intrepid trip you’ll Sea
get up close to soaring mountain peaks, desolate of the Fort William #]R
moorland, sea-sprayed beaches, scalloped bays, lush Hebrides Ben Nevis
hills, green dales, high, barren fells, and glassy lakes, (1344m)
all teeming with wildlife. Along the way, opportunities Isle of
abound to get out and explore the breathtaking Mull #] Oban
countryside on foot, bicycle, horseback and kayak. Isle of Iona

#Inverara\#y
Isle of Loch 14
¸0Jura IsleLoofmond
#^
Isle of Islay Arran
A83 Kilmarnock

]#

Campbeltown #] Ayr]#
Mull of
Kintyre ¸0A77

NORTHERN Stranra]#er
IRELAND

Belfast _#

IMsleanof
Douglas ]#

1 New Forest h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Dublin _# ISriesah
Nov-Mar). Wild ponies IRELAND
With typical, acciden- mooch around pretty Isle of
tal, English irony the scrubland, deer flicker Anglesey
New Forest is anything in the distance and rare
but new – it was first birds flit among the foli- ]#
proclaimed a royal hunt- age. Genteel villages dot
ing preserve in 1079. It’s the landscape, connected Caernarfon #]
also not much of a forest, by a web of wal^#king and Llŷn
being mostly heathland cycling trails. Lyndhurst
(‘forest’ is from the Old tourist office (%02380- Peninsula
French for ‘hunting 282269; www.thenewforest.
ground’). For an overview CarBdaiygan
of New Forest, which was co.uk; main car park, Lyndhurst;
designated a national St George's Preseli
park in 2005, stop by h10am-5pm Easter-Oct, to Channel Hills
the New Forest Museum 4pm Nov-Easter) stocks
(www.newforestcentre.org. maps and guides; they’re PEMBROKESHIRE
uk; main car park, Lyndhurst; also available from its
website. New Forest is Pembroke#\
also a popular spot for
horse riding; Burley Villa Bristol
Channel

\#

222 Isles of ¸0A39
Scilly
Bedruthan
Steps

¸0#4 A38

Plymouth #^

Land's ]# CORNWALL
End Penzance

Tain #\ Dornoch e# 0 100 km (Western Riding; %01425-
#\ Moray 0 50 miles 610278; www.burleyvilla.
co.uk; near New Milton; per hr
LNoecshs Firth Elgin NORTH from £35) organises rides
#\ using traditional English
and also Western saddle
#\ Nairn styles (per 90 minutes
£48).
#] Inverness
4 p233
#15Cairngorms SEA The Drive » Take the A31
National Park
#\ 0¸A93 #^ Aberdeen southwest to Weymouth
#\ and Chesil Beach. Follow the
\# Aviemore ]#Stonehaven Jurassic Coast northwest along
Newtonmore the B3157 to Lyme Regis (81
miles in total).
0¸ ¸0A9 A93
2 Lyme Regis
¸0A827 #\Montrose
#\ Arbroath Fossils regularly emerge
from the unstable cliffs
Per#^th #^ Dundee surrounding Lyme Regis, GREAT BRITAIN 16 Britain’s Wild Side
#\St Andrews exposed by the landslides
of a retreating shoreline,
Stirling #\Falkland making this a key stop
#^ #\ Dunfermline along the Unesco-listed
Jurassic Coast.
#^0¸Glasgow #_ Edinburgh
#\LBanla#\anrtkyrePe#\ebleAs68#\ For an overview, Dino-
#] Melrose #\ Berwick-upon-Tweed saurland (%01297-443541;
]# www.dinosaurland.co.uk;
#\ Kelso
LINK
\# YOUR
]# TRIP
SCOTLAND Jedburgh Kielder Water
h The Historic South
¸0 ¸0 #A713 A7 13 & Forest Park \#Soak up some of
#Dum#]fries England’s rich heritage
Newcastle- before starting your wild
trip – it’s an hour and a
Kirkcudbright #^ 12 #^ upon-Tyne half south on the A34 from
Oxford to the New Forest.
#\ Hadrian's
k Great Glen
Whitehaven C\#aKrleisswleickWPaelnlTnhienes \# Do this lake-and-
¸0 0¸\# A59#\1Ambleside mountain t#\hemed ramble
# 0¸Lake District 11 ]# Darlington through the Scottish
Highlands in reverse from
#]# National Park A19 Inverness.
A684 #]Scarborough
Yorkshire Dales 223
10 National Park

#^ York

Blackpool]# #^Leeds ]# Hull

#0¸# ¸0 #¸0#]8#]#\BAB4aLe7n\#0ia7vgBueSNPomertranaapwrotroskMiiwso-oyadn-lCnoa#^olnceihad#]eSsthBerMure6#^xw]#tsoSobnntu#\o-Trkyre9e-MnNP1S]#tLeaheateiki#^ofc#^fDneNiasiesoltltdPtertaircirntkgham
¸0A49
¸0#^ Aberystwyth A1
Ludlow #^ Birmingham
Cambridge
¸0Llanwrtyd #\
Wells Stratford- #^
A470 upon-Avon #\

M5
¸0\# Brecon ENGLAND

#WALES Beacons Gloucester #^ Luton
6 National ]#
The #^ Oxford
Swansea Park Cotswolds London
#_
0¸#^ A470 17

¸0 ¸0 GF#Cardiff _# #^Bristol #^
M5
Ilfracombe

#\ 5 Exmoor
]# Bath Reading
Wells Salisbury M3

#\
0¸ ¸0lL# # #E3xete#^rPNaartkioLny2amleA3NR03eewgiAsF3o5 res#^t#]B1our#^nSeomutohuatmh ptoBn#^righton
Dartmoor LByamye
#^ National Jurassic ENGLISH
Coast CHANNEL
Park

GREAT BRITAIN 16 Britain’s Wild Side Coombe St; adult/child £5/4; 3 Dartmoor The Drive » Head west
h10am-5pm mid-Feb–mid- National Park
Oct) overflows with through Tavistock to pass
fossilised remains; look Covering 368 sq miles, through the Tamar Valley,
out for belemnites, a this vast national park another AONB, on the A390.
plesiosaurus and an (%01626-834684; www. At Dobwalls, pick up the A38
impressive locally found visitdartmoor.co.uk) feels and drive west along the
ichthyosaur. Kids love the like it’s tumbled straight forested River Fowey to join
lifelike dinosaur models, out of a Tolkien tome, the southwest-bound A30.
rock-hard tyrannosaur with its honey-coloured Take the Victoria turn-off
eggs and 73kg dinosaur heaths, moss-covered and travel northwest past
dung. boulders, tinkling Newquay Cornwall Airport to
streams and eerie granite the Bedruthan Steps (62 miles
Three miles east of tors (hills). altogether).
Lyme, the Charmouth
On sunny days Dart- 4 Bedruthan Steps
Heritage Coast Centre moor is idyllic: ponies
(%01297-560772; www. wander and sheep graze On Cornwall’s surf-
charmouth.org; Lower Sea beside the road, as seen pounded coast loom the
Lane, Charmouth; h10.30am- in Steven Spielberg’s stately rock stacks of
4.30pm daily Easter-Oct, WWI epic War Horse. But Bedruthan (Carnewas; NT;
Thu-Sun Nov-Easter) runs Dartmoor is also the set- www.nationaltrust.org.uk/car
one to seven fossil- ting for Sir Arthur Conan newas-and-bedruthan-steps).
hunting trips a week Doyle’s The Hound of These mighty granite
(adult/child £7.50/3). In the Baskervilles, and in pillars have been carved
Lyme itself, Lyme Regis sleeting rain and swirling out by thousands of years
Museum (%01297-443370; mists the moor morphs of wind and waves, and
www.lymeregismuseum.co.uk; into a bleak wilderness the area is now owned by
Bridge St; adult/child £4/free; where tales of a phantom the National Trust. The
h10am-5pm Easter-Oct, 11am- hound seem very real. beach itself is accessed
4pm Wed-Sun Nov-Easter) Be aware too that the via a steep staircase and
organises three to seven military uses live am- is submerged at high
walks a week (adult/ munition in its training tide. Towards the north
child £11/6); local expert ranges (p225). end is a rocky shelf
Brandon Lennon (%07854 known as Diggory’s Is-
377519; www.lymeregisfossil Dartmoor is a haven land, which separates the
walks.com; adult/child £8/6; for outdoor activities, main beach from another
hSat-Mon) also leads including hiking, cycling, little-known cove.
expeditions. Book walks riding, climbing and
in advance. white-water kayaking; The Drive » Drive east to join
the Dartmoor National
The Drive » Drive west on Park Authority (DNPA; the northeast-bound A39, which
www.dartmoor.gov.uk) has runs parallel to the Cornish
the A3052 through the dazzling detailed information. coast, to the town of Lynmouth
East Devon AONB (Area of And there are plenty of in Exmoor National Park (94
Outstanding Natural Beauty) to rustic pubs to cosy up in miles in total).
Exeter and take the B3212 up when the fog rolls in.
into Postbridge, a small village in 5 Exmoor National
the middle of Dartmoor National 4 p233 Park
Park (52 miles all up).
In the middle of Exmoor
National Park is the
higher moor, an empty,

224

expansive, other-worldly TRIP HIGHLIGHT the park’s highest peak; GREAT BRITAIN 16 Britain’s Wild Side
landscape of tawny and the rolling heath-
grasses and huge skies. 6 Brecon Beacons land ridges of the Black
National Park Mountains (Y Myny-
Exmoor supports one ddoedd Duon) – not to be
of England’s largest Brecon Beacons National confused with the Black
wild red deer popula- Park (Parc Cenedlaethol Mountain (singular) in
tions, best experienced Bannau Brycheiniog) rip- the west. The park’s main
in autumn when the ples for 45 miles from the visitor centre (%01874-
annual ‘rutting’ season English border to near 623366; www.breconbeacons.
sees stags bellowing, Llandeilo in the west. org; Libanus; h9.30am-5pm
charging at each other High mountain plateaus Easter-Sep) has details of
and clashing horns in of grass and heather, walks, hiking and biking
an attempt to impress their northern rims trails, outdoor activities,
prospective mates. The scalloped with glacier- wildlife and geology (call
Exmoor National Park scoured hollows, rise first to check it’s open).
Authority (ENPA; www. above wooded, waterfall-
exmoor-nationalpark.gov. splashed valleys and 4 p233
uk) runs regular wildlife- green, rural landscapes.
themed guided walks The Drive » Drive north along
(free), which include Within the park there
evening deer-spotting are four distinct regions: the A470 to reach the southern
hikes. Or head out on an the wild, lonely Black boundary of Snowdonia National
organised jeep safari. Mountain (Mynydd Du) Park at Mallwyd (79 miles
in the west, with its high altogether).
The open moors and moors and glacial lakes;
a profusion of marked Fforest Fawr (Great 7 Snowdonia
bridleways offer excellent Forest), whose rushing National Park
hiking. Cycling is also streams and spectacu-
popular here; Exmoor lar waterfalls form the Wales’ best-known and
Adventures (%07976- headwaters of the Rivers most-visited slice of na-
208279; www.exmoor Tawe and Neath; the ture, Snowdonia National
adventures.co.uk) runs a Brecon Beacons (Bannau Park (Parc Cenedla-
five-hour mountain- Brycheiniog) proper, a ethol Eryri) became the
biking skills course (£50) group of very distinctive, country’s first national
and also hires bikes (per flat-topped hills that in- park in 1951. Every year
day £25). cludes Pen-y-Fan (886m), more than 350,000
people walk, climb or
The Drive » From Lynmouth
TOP TIP:
to Libanus in the Brecon WARNING: DARTMOOR
Beacons National Park it’s MILITARY RANGES
143 miles. Take the A39 east
along the coast to join the Live ammunition is used on Dartmoor’s training
M5 at Bridgwater. Take the ranges. Check locations with the Firing Information
Second Severn Crossing bridge Service (%0800 458 4868; www.mod.uk/access) or
(westbound bridge traffic incurs tourist offices. Red flags fly at the edges of in-use
a £6.60 toll, payable by cash, ranges by day; red flares burn at night. Beware
debit card or credit card) and unidentified metal objects lying in the grass. Don’t
head west towards Cardiff to join touch anything; report finds to the Commandant
the northwest-bound A470. (%01837-650010).

225

ELGOL / GETTY IMAGES ©

DUNCAN SHAW / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
CATHERINE LE
NEVEZ, WRITER

For a relatively small island, Britain’s
landscapes have an astonishing
diversity and this classic trip offers
a taste, from wooded forests to
windswept moors, and coastal cliffs
to tranquil lakes, with opportunities
all along the route for more in-depth
exploration. Bring rain gear at any
time of year as getting out into
Britain’s great outdoors invariably
means encountering classic British
weather.

Top: Sea kayaker, Skye
Left: Reindeer, Cairngorms National Park
Right: Isle of Anglesey

GREAT BRITAIN 16 Britain’s Wild Sidetake the rack-and-pinion
railway (%01286-870223;
GARRY RIDSDALE / GETTY IMAGES © www.snowdonrailway.co.uk;
Llanberis; adult/child return
diesel £29/20, steam £37/27;
h9am-5pm mid-Mar–Nov)
to the 1085m summit of
Snowdon. The park’s 823
sq miles embrace stun-
ning coastline, forests,
valleys, rivers, bird-filled
estuaries and Wales’
biggest natural lake. The
Snowdonia National
Park Information Centre
(%01690-710426; www.
eryri-npa.gov.uk; Royal Oak
Stables; h9.30am-5.30pm
Easter-Oct, to 4pm rest of year)
is an invaluable source
of information about
walking trails, mountain
conditions and more.

The Drive » Continue north

on the A470 and take the A5
northwest to Bangor. Cross
Robert Stephenson’s 1850-built
Britannia Bridge over the
Menai Strait and take the A545
northwest to Beaumaris (a
72-mile trip).

8 Isle of Anglesey

The 276-sq-mile Isle of
Anglesey (Ynys Môn)
offers miles of inspiring
coastline, hidden beaches
and the country’s great-
est concentration of
ancient sites.

Almost all of the
Anglesey coast has been
designated as an AONB
(Area of Outstanding
Natural Beauty). Beyond
the handsome Georgian
town of Beaumaris
(Biwmares), there are
hidden gems scattered all
over the island. It’s very

227

GREAT BRITAIN 16 Britain’s Wild Side much a living centre of 9 Peak District The Drive » From Bakewell
Welsh culture, too, as you National Park
can see for yourself at take the A623 northwest
Oriel Ynys Môn (%01248- Founded in 1951, the towards Manchester and pick
724444; www.orielynysmon. Peak District was up the northbound M66, then
info; Rhosmeirch, Llangefni; England’s first national at Burnley take the northeast-
h10.30am-5pm; p). A park and is Europe’s bound M65 to Skipton. Enter the
great, introductory day busiest. But even at peak Yorkshire Dales National Park on
walk from Beaumaris times, there are 555 sq the B6265 to Grassington and
takes in the ancient miles of open country- head northwest on the B6160
monastic site of Penmon side in which to soak to Aysgarth. Then take the A684
Priory (Cadw; www.cadw. up the scenery. Caving along the River Ure to Hawes (a
wales.gov.uk; Penmon; parking and climbing, cycling total of 118 miles).
£2.50; h10am-4pm; p), and, above all, walking
Penmon Point with views (including numerous a Yorkshire Dales
across to Puffin Island, short walks) are the most National Park
and Blue Flag beach popular activities. The
Llanddona. Protected as a national
Peak District National park since the 1950s,
4 p233 Park Authority (%01629- the glacial valleys of the
816200; www.peakdistrict.gov. Yorkshire Dales (named
The Drive » Return to uk; bicycle hire per half-day/ from the old Norse word
day adult £14/17, child £10/12) dalr, meaning ‘valleys’)
the mainland and take the has reams of information are characterised by a
A55 northeast, crossing the about the park and also distinctive landscape of
border into England where operates several cycle- high heather moorland,
the road becomes the M56. hire centres. The charm- stepped skylines and
Continue northeast towards ing town of Bakewell also flat-topped hills above
Manchester before turning off has a helpful tourist of- valleys patchworked
on the southeast-bound M6. At fice (%01629-816558; www. with drystone dykes and
Sandbach turn east on the A534 visitpeakdistrict.com; Bridge little barns. Hawes is
and follow the signs to Leek, St; h9.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, home to the Wensley-
then take the A53 northeast 10.30am-4.30pm Nov-Mar). dale Creamery (www.
before turning east towards wensleydale.co.uk; adult/child
Longnor then Bakewell (138 4 p233 £2.50/1.50; h10am-4pm;
miles all-up). p c), producing famous
Wensleydale cheese. In
TOP TIP: the limestone country of
WALKING SAFETY TIPS the southern Dales you’ll
encounter extraordinary
The British countryside can appear gentle, and often examples of karst scenery
is, but conditions can deteriorate quickly. Year-round (created by rainwater
on the hills or open moors carry warm waterproof dissolving the underlying
clothing, a map and compass, and high-energy limestone bedrock).
food (eg chocolate) and drinks. If you’re really going
off the beaten track, leave your route details with The Drive » Head southwest
someone.
on the B6255 to Ingleton. Take
the A65 northwest to Sizergh
then the A590 southwest to
the Lake District’s southern
reaches at Newby Bridge. Drive
north along Lake Windermere
before veering northwest to
Hawkshead (53 miles all up).

228

IAN WOOLCOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

b Lake District connections: among the Cornwall Bedruthan Steps
National Park many writers who found
inspiration here are The Drive » Drive northwest
The Lake District (or William Wordsworth,
Lakeland, as it’s com- Samuel Taylor Coleridge, on the A591 to join the A595
monly known round Arthur Ransome and, of to Carlisle. Then take the A689
these parts) is by far course, Beatrix Potter, and A69 northeast to Walltown
the UK’s most popular a lifelong lover of the along Hadrian’s Wall (72 miles
national park. Ever since Lakes, whose delightful altogether).
the Romantic poets ar- former farmhouse, Hill
rived in the 19th century, Top (NT; %015394-36269; c Hadrian’s Wall
its postcard panorama www.nationaltrust.org.uk/
of craggy hilltops, moun- hill-top; adult/child £10/5, ad- Hadrian’s Wall is one of
tain tarns and glittering mission to garden & shop free; Britain’s most revealing
lakes has stirred visitors’ hhouse 10am-5.30pm Mon- and dramatic Roman
imaginations. It’s awash Thu, 10am-4.30pm Fri-Sun, ruins, its 2000-year-old
with outdoor opportuni- garden 10am-5.45pm Mon-Thu, procession of aban-
ties, from lake cruises to 10am-5pm Fri-Sun), inspired doned forts, garrisons,
mountain walks. many of her tales includ- towers and milecastles
ing Peter Rabbit. marching across the wild
Many people visit and lonely landscape of
for the region’s literary 4 p233, p259 northern England. This
wall was about defence
and control, but this
edge-of-empire bar-
rier also symbolised the

229

MICHAEL_DODD / GETTY IMAGES ©boundary of civilised well as great birdwatch-
order – to the north lay ing. Comprehensive
GREAT BRITAIN 16 Britain’s Wild Side the unruly land of the information is available
marauding Celts, while at www.visitkielder.com.
to the south was the tends over a huge area,
Roman world of orderly The lack of population from Balloch north to
taxpaying, underfloor here helped see the area Tyndrum and Killin, and
heating and bathrooms. awarded dark-sky status from Callander west to
There’s an excellent by the International the forests of Cowal.
visitor centre at Walltown Dark Skies Associa-
(Northumberland National Park tion in 2013 (the largest From Balloch,
Visitor Centre; %01697-747151; such designation in
www.northumberlandnational Europe), with controls Sweeney’s Cruises
park.org.uk; Greenhead; to prevent light pollu- (%01389-752376; www.
h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm tion. For the best views sweeneyscruiseco.com;
Oct, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Nov- of the Northumberland Balloch Rd) offers a range
Mar). The finest sections International Dark Sky of trips including a
of the wall run along Park, attend a stargazing one-hour return cruise
the southern edge of session at state-of-the- to Inchmurrin (adult/
remote Northumberland art, 2008-built Kielder child £10.20/7, five times
National Park. Observatory (%0191-265
5510; www.kielderobservatory
The Drive » Follow the B6318 .org; Black Fell, off Shilling
Pot; public observing session
northeast along Hadrian’s Wall. adult/child £16.50/15; hby
Turn north on the B6320 to reservation). Book ahead
Bellingham. Continue northwest and dress warmly as it’s
alongside the North Tyne river seriously chilly here at
and Kielder Water lake to the night.
village of Kielder (a 43-mile
journey). The Drive » It’s a 139-mile

TRIP HIGHLIGHT drive from Kielder to Balloch
on the southern shore of Loch
d Kielder Water & Lomond. Head north into
Forest Park Scotland and join the A68
towards Edinburgh. Take the M8
Adjacent to Northumber- to Glasgow and then the A82
land National Park, the northwest to Balloch.
Kielder Water & Forest
Park is home to the vast e Loch Lomond
artificial lake Kielder
Water, holding 200,000 Loch Lomond is main-
million litres. Surround- land Britain’s largest lake
ing its 27-mile-long and, after Loch Ness,
shoreline is England’s the most famous of Scot-
largest plantation forest, land’s lochs. It’s part of
with 150 million spruce the Loch Lomond & the
and pine trees. Kielder Trossachs National Park
Water is a water-sports (www.lochlomond-trossachs.
playground (and midge org), which became the
magnet; bring insect heart of Scotland’s first
repellent), and also has national park, created
walking and cycling as in 2002. The park ex-

230

Kielder Water & Forest Park Mountain-biking through the forest

daily April to October, Easter-Oct) also arranges TRIP HIGHLIGHT
twice daily November to boat trips and water- and
March), and a two-hour land-based activities f Cairngorms
cruise (£18/10.20 twice from various bases National Park
daily May to September around Loch Lomond.
plus weekends April and The vast Cairn-
October) around the The Drive » Follow the gorms National Park
islands. CanYou (www.cairngorms.co.uk)
Experience (%01389- A82 along Loch Lomond’s stretches from Aviemore
756251; www.canyouexperi western shoreline and pick in the north – with a
up the northeast-bound A85 handy tourist office
ence.com; Loch Lomond at Crianlarich. Then take (%01479-810930;
the northwest-bound A9 to
Shores; h10am-5.30pm Aviemore (a total of 141 miles).

231

GREAT BRITAIN 16 Britain’s Wild Side OUTER HEBRIDES Gaelic) takes its name
from the old Norse sky-a,
If you’re not ready to return to the mainland after meaning ‘cloud island’, a
visiting the Isle of Skye, consider a trip to the Outer Viking reference to the
Hebrides (aka the Western Isles; Na h-Eileanan an often-mist-enshrouded
Iar in Gaelic) – a 130-mile-long string of islands Cuillin Hills. It’s a
west of Skye. More than a third of Scotland’s 50-mile-long patchwork
registered crofts are here, and no less than 60% of velvet moors, jagged
of the population are Gaelic speakers. With limited mountains, sparkling
time, head straight for the west coast of Lewis lochs and towering sea
with its prehistoric sites, preserved blackhouses, cliffs. Lively Portree
beautiful beaches, and arts and crafts studios – the (Port Righ) has the
Lochmaddy Tourist Office (%01867-500321; Pier Rd; island’s only tourist of-
h10am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct) can provide a list. Ferries fice (%01478-612992; www.
(car £30, driver and passenger £6.10 each) run once visitscotland.com; Bayfield Rd;
or twice daily from Uig on Skye to Lochmaddy (1¾
hours) and Tarbert (1½ hours). h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-

www.visitaviemore.com; The Lower down, scenic glens 4pm Sun Jun-Aug, shorter
Mall, Grampian Rd; h9am- are softened by beauti- hours Sep-May; W).
5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun ful open forests of native
year-round, longer hrs Jul & Scots pine, home to Skye offers some of
Aug) – to the Angus Glens rare animals and birds the finest walking in
in the south, and from such as pine martens, Scotland, including some
Dalwhinnie in the west wildcats, red squirrels, short, low-level routes.
to Ballater and Royal ospreys, capercaillies and The sheltered coves and
Deeside in the east. crossbills. sea lochs around the
coast of Skye provide
The park encompasses 4 p233 magnificent sea-kayaking
the highest landmass in The Drive » Take the A9 opportunities. Skyak Ad-
Britain – a broad moun- ventures (%01471-820002;
tain plateau, riven only northwest to Inverness, then www.skyakadventures.com; 29
by the deep valleys of the the southwest-bound A82
Lairig Ghru and Loch along Loch Ness (keeping an Lower Breakish, Breakish; 1-day
Avon, with an average al- eye out for mythical beasts).
titude of over 1000m and At Invermoriston join the course per person from £100)
including five of the six westbound A887, which runs expeditions and
highest summits in the becomes the A87, and continue courses for both begin-
UK. This wild mountain to Kyle of Lochalsh where you’ll ners and experienced
landscape of granite and cross the Skye Bridge to the paddlers to otherwise
heather has a sub-Arctic Isle of Skye. Continue along the inaccessible places.
climate and supports A87 to reach Portree (a 145-mile
rare alpine tundra journey all up). Skye’s stunning scen-
vegetation and high- ery is the main attrac-
altitude bird species, g Isle of Skye tion, but when the mist
such as snow bunting, closes in there are plenty
ptarmigan and dotterel. The Isle of Skye (an of castles, crofting muse-
t-Eilean Sgiathanach in ums and cosy pubs and
restaurants, along with
dozens of art galleries
and craft studios.

232

Eating & Sleeping

New Forest 1 road from each other, provide quite a contrast.
Where the Bulls Head accommodation –
4 The Pig Boutique Hotel £££ occupying the oldest pub in town – is historic
and elegant, the townhouse is contemporary,
(%0345 225 9494; www.thepighotel.co.uk; high-tech and design driven. Breakfast for both
is served at the old inn.
Beaulieu Rd, Brockenhurst; r £175-265; pW)

One of the New Forest’s classiest hotels remains

an utter delight: log baskets, croquet mallets and Peak District National Park 9 GREAT BRITAIN 16 Britain’s Wild Side

ranks of guest gumboots give things a country-

house air; espresso machines and minilarders 4 Melbourne House &

lend bedrooms a luxury touch. The effortless Easthorpe B&B ££

elegance makes it feel like you’ve just dropped by (%01629-815357; www.bakewell-

a friend’s (very stylish) rural retreat. accommodation.co.uk; Buxton Rd; d from £70;

Dartmoor National Park 3 pW) Occupying a picturesque, creeper-

covered building (Melbourne House) dating

4 Tor Royal Farm B&B ££ back more than three centuries and a new annex

(Easthorpe), with uncluttered, neutral-toned

(%01822-890189; www.torroyal.co.uk; Tor rooms, this inviting B&B is handily situated on

Royal Lane, near Princetown; s £60, d £80-100; the main road leading to Buxton.

pW) An easygoing, country cottage–styled

farmhouse packed with lived-in charm. The Lake District National Park b

rooms are rather old-fashioned – cream-and-

white furniture, puffy bedspreads, easy chairs 4 Summer Hill

– but they’re cosy, and the sumptuous afternoon Hotel ££

tea (£14) is reason to stay here alone. Country House

(%015394-36180; www.summerhillcountry

Brecon Beacons National Park 6 house.com; Hawkshead Hill; d £102-122;

p iW) On Hawkshead Hill, this 1700s house

4 Peterstone Court Hotel £££ has a wonderfully out-of-the-way setting, 3

miles from both Coniston and Hawkshead. The

(%01874-665387; www.peterstone-court.com; five rooms vary in shape and size, but all feature

Llanhamlach; r from £150; pWs) At this posh bath products and net-connected Mac

elegant Georgian manor house, the rooms are Minis for getting online or watching DVDs. The

large and comfortable, and the views across the garden boasts sculptures and a summerhouse

valley to the Beacons are superb. The boutique that belonged to John Ruskin.

spa centre is a big drawcard. It also has an

excellent restaurant (breakfast £8-14, lunch Cairngorms National Park f
£15-17, dinner £14-21; h7.30-9.30am & noon-

9.30pm). Llanhamlach is 3 miles southeast of 4 Old Minister’s House B&B £££

Brecon, just off the A40.

(%01479-812181; www.theoldministershouse.

Isle of Anglesey 8 co.uk; Ski Rd, Inverdruie; s/d £125/140; pW)

This former manse dates from 1906 and has

4 Ye Olde Bulls Head five rooms with a luxurious, country-house

Hotel ££ atmosphere. It’s in a lovely setting amid Scots

Inn & Townhouse pines on the banks of the River Druie, southeast

(%01248-810329; www.bullsheadinn.co.uk; of Aviemore.

Castle St; d inn/townhouse from £90/110; W)

These sister properties, located just across the

233

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RON ELLIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Historic

17South

England’s rich heritage runs like a glittering seam through this
remarkable road trip. Discovering sights nautical, archaeological
and architectural, you’ll travel the ages as you clock up the miles.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 9–11 DAYS
450 MILES /
440 miles 720KM
Blenheim Palace
Noseying around the GREAT FOR...
rooms of Winston
Churchill’s home BJ

Km Ll#1#4 BEST TIME TO GO
# Oxford
LONDON #_ Spring and autumn.
# Summer if you don’t
mind more crowds.
Bath
I ESSENTIAL
##9 ##2 PHOTO

# # Lounging in a punt
with a backdrop
Beaulieu Brighton of Oxford’s divine
buildings.
Salisbury Leeds Castle
Staring upwards at Delighting in the beauty K BEST FOR
Salisbury Cathedral’s of this moat-framed SURPRISES
soaring spire fortification
262 miles 39 miles The world’s biggest
stone circle: Avebury
(not Stonehenge).

LSoacliastbiuornyCCaaptthioenddraeltaAil1s3ttoh-gcoenhteurrey building with the tallest spire in England 235

17 The Historic
South

Stand by to tour some of the world’s most beautiful castles and most
memorable archaeological sites. Take in three of England’s most impressive
cathedrals, Georgian cityscapes, Churchill’s palace and Oxford’s spires.
Discover guerilla art and this country’s fine tradition of seaside kitsch. Motor
to a motor m#\useum, e]#xplore unspoiled v#\illages and encounter 14th-century
fellow travellers’ ta#\les. In short, take a road trip through the very best of
Britain’s past.

Ross-on-Wye Blenheim ]#
\# GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Milton ·/M1
]# Keynes
Gloucester ]# Palace BUCKINGHAMSHIRE Luton
Forest Cheltenham A424 14
#^
A40 \#Burford A34
/· ·/ #Monmouth\# \#
·/of Dean
53 miles to SeveSrntroud #\ ]# Aylesbury #\
\#
GF‚ ·/ /· /· #Km21 Chepstow ^#
Southern\# Witney #^15 Oxford
Cotswolds Cirencester
M5 A46 M40 St Albans ]#
·/\# #\ Tetbury A420
]#
WILTSHIRE High ]#
M4 Wycombe
·/SEesvteuranry Watford
# ·/Bristol 1#^3 Richmond \#

FG # ·/ # ·/16 Keynsham #\ 1]#2

I# Bath
H# /·p294
Chippenham ]# OXFORDSHIRE Slough
#\ Swindon #\

A4 Avebury M4 WEST M4
BERKSHIRE
1#\1 Marlborough #^ Reading

\# M3
SaFvoerrensatke
#\ ]# Newbury

Lacock \# Devizes

·/ /·SOMERSET
/·Glastonbury

##\
p244 A360 SaPlilsabinury A30 M25
Warminster #\ Amesbury
Basingstoke ]# Guildford
10 #\
]# Aldershot #\

\# Andover

/· ·/ ·/A37
Stonehenge A345 HAMPSHIRE ·/ ·/A3 SURREY A24

A303 #\Haslemere
#Salisbury ]#9
##\ #^7 Winchester Horsham \#
/· ·/Shaftesbury
Yeovil ]# #\ Sherborne A36 Romsey M3
\#

/·A354 \# Eastleigh #\ Petworth

Cadnam #\ #^ Southampton WEST
Lyndhurst \#
DORSET SUSSEX
Bridport Ferndown Chichester
Lymington ##\8 Beaulieu
4FG4\# Dorchester /· \# \# # /·#^6 ]# A27 #^ ]#
16 #\ Ryde
Jurassic Coast A31 Portsmouth Worthing Hove
Poole #\ #^
Bournemouth Newport#\ ]#
Isle of
Weymouth ]# #\ Swanage Wight

\# Ventnor

1 London the top for unforgettable The Drive » London’s streets GREAT BRITAIN 17 The Historic South
London views. Next ex-
Vibrant London is so plore the city's rich past and suburbs meet bursts of
packed with historic at the Museum of Lon- the Kent countryside; you’re
sights, where’s best to don (www.museumoflondon. heading for the A20 towards
start? In the capital’s org.uk; 150 London Wall, EC2; Sidcup, then the M20 towards
touch­stone: St Paul’s h10am-6pm; tBarbican). Dover. Shortly after Maidstone
(%020-7246 8350; www. Then head east to elegant leave the motorway behind,
stpauls.co.uk; St Paul’s Church- Tower Bridge to learn in picking up A20 signs for Lenham
yard, EC4; adult/child £18/8; its exhibition (%020-7403 and then Leeds Castle, some 40
h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat; 3761; www.towerbridge.org.uk; miles from the capital.
tSt Paul’s). Designed by Tower Bridge, SE1; adult/child
Sir Christopher Wren in £9/3.90, incl Monument £11/5; TRIP HIGHLIGHT
1675 after the Great Fire, h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-
its vast dome is famed for 5.30pm Oct-Mar, last admission 2 Leeds Castle
avoiding Luftwaffe raids 30min before closing; tTower
during the Blitz. Head Hill) just how they raise Immense and moat-
inside and up 257 steps the arms – and the road – ringed, for many Leeds
to the walkway called the to let ships through. Castle (www.leeds-castle.
Whispering Gallery, then com; adult/child £24.50/16.50;
to th#^e Golden Gallery at 4 p219 h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, to
5pm Oct-Mar) is one of the
world’s most romantic.
The formidable, intricate
structure balancing on
two islands is known as
something of a ‘ladies
Ipswich ^# castle’. This stems from

the fact that in its more
than 1000 years of his-
/·\# Stevenage M11 Baintree \# Felixstowe \# tory, it has been home to
ESSEX a who’s who of medieval
HERTFORDSHIRE 44#]

·/ Colchester

A12

#]Harlow \# Clacton-
on-Sea
44#] LINK
#^ Chelmsford YOUR
TRIP
/·M25
#] Brentwood l West Wales:
44London Swansea to
Basildon #] NSoerath St Davids
lL##_1

444#\
#\ Dagenham #] Southend-

\# Dartford Canvey on-Sea
Island

/·A2 Chatham Margate From Oxford, head west on
4/·M20 ]# Whitstable the M4 to Swansea for the
#\ Croydon \# #] sweeping beaches and vast
sand dunes of the Welsh
/·M25 #^# North #^#3 Canterbury coast.
Downs
\# Reigate Maidstone 2\#

·/ ·/Leeds Castle M20 A28 ·/A2

#] Ashford #] KENT Dover g Britain’s Wild Side
It’s an hour and a
Royal Tunbridge #\ half south from Oxford to
the New Forest to pick up
Haywards Wells /·A21 ·/A2070 ^# this exploration of Britain’s
Heath EAST glorious national parks.
SUSSEX Folkestone
#\ ·/A259 Romney 237
#4#\ Marsh
Lewes Rye English
Bexhill Channel
\# ^# (La Manche)
#]
#^#5 ·/A27 Hastings

Brighton H# #^ Eastbourne
#æ
Beachy ofSDtroaviter

p239 Head

GREAT BRITAIN 17 The Historic South queens, most famously thousands of pilgrims and tales of smugglers
Henry VIII’s first wife, for more than 800 years. abound. The best place
Catherine of Aragon. The Canterbury Tales to start stretching your
(www.canterburytales.org.uk; legs is Mermaid Street. It
The Drive » Next up is a 25- St Margaret’s St; adult/child bristles with 15th-century
£9.75/7.50; h10am-5pm Mar- timber-framed houses
mile cruise, high up over the Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb) exhi- with quirky names such
vast chalk ridge of the North bition uses animatronics as ‘The House with Two
Downs. You’re headed northeast, and audio guides to Front Doors’ and ‘The
largely along the A252/A28 – explore Chaucer’s stories House Opposite’. A short
the Canterbury Rd which echoes of these 14th-century walk away the 13th-
the old pilgrim footpath to the travellers. For a taste of century Ypres Tower
cathedral city. even older Canterbury, (www.ryemuseum.co.uk;
head to the mosaics of Church Sq; adult/child £4/
3 Canterbury the Roman Museum (www. free; h10.30am-5pm Apr-Oct,
canterburymuseums.co.uk; to 3.30pm Nov-Mar) affords
Canterbury tops the Butchery Lane; adult/child £8/ views of Rye Bay, the
charts for English free; h10am-5pm). marshes and sometimes
cathedral cities – and no France. The Rye Heritage
wonder. Here medieval 4 p245 Centre (%01797-226696;
alleyways frame exquisite www.ryeheritage.co.uk; Strand
architecture, with Can- The Drive » Now for a 35-mile Quay; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct,
terbury Cathedral (www. shorter hours Nov-Mar) offers
canterbury-cathedral.org; adult/ drive. Head back up and over themed walking tours.
concession £12/10.50, tours the North Downs on the A28
£5/4, audioguide £4/3; h9am- towards Ashford. Then plunge The Drive » The next 50-mile
5.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm down to roll, along the A2070,
Sun) the centrepiece. This through the verdant valley of leg sees you taking a string of A
towering Gothic cathedral the Weald of Kent. Soon you’re roads west. They lead past the
features fine stonework, a edging the flat-lands of Romney woods and farms of the High
cavernous crypt and the Marsh and arriving at Rye. Weald AONB up to another chalk
site of English history’s ridge, this time the amphitheatre
most famous murder: 4 Rye of hills that is the South Downs.
Archbishop Thomas Eventually, it’s time to descend
Becket was killed here Welcome to one of Eng- to Brighton on the shore.
in 1170 after ‘hints’ from land’s prettiest towns.
King Henry II, drawing Here cobbled lanes, 5 Brighton
wonky Tudor buildings
Famously hedonistic,
THE CANTERBURY TALES exuberant and home
to the UK’s biggest gay
The Canterbury Tales is the best-known work of scene, Brighton rocks.
English literature’s father figure: Geoffrey Chaucer The bright n’ breezy sea-
(1342–1400). Chaucer was the first English writer front boasts the grand,
to introduce characters – rather than ‘types’ – into century-old Brighton
fiction. They feature strongly in The Canterbury Pier (www.brightonpier.co.uk;
Tales, an unfinished series of 24 vivid stories told by Madeira Dr), complete with
a party of pilgrims travelling between London and fairground rides, amuse-
Canterbury. The text remains one of the pillars of the ment arcades and candy
literary canon. But more than that, it’s a collection of floss stalls. Stroll inland
rollicking good yarns of adultery, debauchery, crime to the magnificent Royal
and edgy romance, and is filled with Chaucer’s witty Pavilion (%03000-290901;
observations about human nature. http://brightonmuseums.
org.uk/royalpavilion; Royal

238

Pavilion Gardens; adult/child DETOUR: GREAT BRITAIN 17 The Historic South
£12.30/6.90; h9.30am- BEACHY HEAD
5.45pm Apr-Sep, 10am-5.15pm
Oct-Mar), the glittering Start: 4 Rye
palace of Prince George An 8-mile detour off your route leads to a truly
(later King George IV). remarkable view. Around 25 miles west of Rye, peel
It’s one of the most off the A27 onto the A22 to Eastbourne. Head to
opulent buildings in the seafront to take the signed route that climbs to
England, and Europe’s Beachy Head. Pick a parking spot and follow the
finest example of early- footpaths to the cliffs themselves. These 162m-tall
19th-century chinoiserie. sheer chalk faces are the highest point of cliffs that
Take in the Salvador slice across the rugged coastline at the southern end
Dalí sofa modelled on of the South Downs. Far below sits a squat red-and-
Mae West’s lips at the white-striped lighthouse. Appealing walks include the
Brighton Museum & Art 1.5 mile hike west to the beach at Birling Gap.
Gallery (www.brighton-hove-
museums.org.uk; Royal Pavilion HMS Warrior (www.hmswar 7 Winchester
Gardens; adult/child £5.20/3; rior.org; adult/child £18/13;
h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), then h10am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, to Calm, collegiate Winches-
gear up for a lively night 5pm Nov-Mar) and a wealth ter is a mellow must-see.
out by shopping amid the of imaginative, maritime- One of southern England’s
boutiques of the tightly themed museums, along most awe-inspiring
packed Brighton Lanes. with waterborne harbour buildings, 11th-century
tours (%02392-839766;
4 p245 www.historicdockyard.co.uk; Winchester Cathedral
adult/child £7/5; hhours (%01962-857225; www.
The Drive » Next is a 50-mile vary). Round it all off with winchester-cathedral.org.
the WWII-era submarine uk; The Close; adult/child incl
blast due west, largely along HMS Alliance (www. cathedral body & crypt tours
A roads, to the historic port of submarine-museum.co.uk; £8/free; h9.30am-5pm
Portsmouth. As the 170m-high Haslar Rd, Gosport; adult/ Mon-Sat, 12.30-3pm Sun) sits
Spinnaker Tower gets closer on child £14/10; h10am-5.30pm at its core. It boasts a fine
the horizon, pick up signs for the Apr-Oct, 10am-4.30pm Wed-Sun Gothic facade, one of the
Historic Dockyard Car Park. Nov-Mar) or by strolling longest medieval naves
around the defences in the in Europe (164m) and
6 Portsmouth historic Point district and intricately carved medi-
by climbing the sail-like eval choir stalls, sporting
Portsmouth’s blockbuster Spinnaker Tower (%02392- everything from mythical
Historic Dockyard sees 857520; www.spinnakertower. beasts to a mischievous
you gazing at the hulk of co.uk; Gunwharf Quays; adult/ green man. Jane Austen’s
Henry VIII’s flagship, the child £10/8; h10am-6pm) for grave is near the entrance,
Mary Rose (www.maryrose. 23-mile views. in the northern aisle. The
org; adult/child £18/13; fantastical crumbling re-
h10am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, to The Drive » Time to head mains of Wolvesey Castle
5pm Nov-Mar), and jumping (EH; %0370-333 1181;
aboard HMS Victory inland; a 30-mile motorway www.english-heritage.org.
(www.hms-victory.com; adult/ cruise (the M27 then the M3) uk; College St; h10am-5pm
child £18/13; h10am-5.30pm takes you to Winchester. Apr-Oct) sit nearby, as
Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) – the
warship Nelson captained
at the Battle of Trafalgar.
Then there’s the Victorian

239

WHY THIS IS A does one of England’s
GREAT TRIP most prestigious private
BELINDA DIXON, WRITER schools: Winchester Col-
lege (%01962-621209; www.
For me, great trips need winchestercollege.org; College
classic sights, and this journey delivers in spades. St; adult/child £7/free; htours
As well as the big-name attractions, you also 10.15am, 11.30am, 2.15pm,
get intriguing insights and some surprises: the 3.30pm Mon, Wed, Fri-Sun),
stone circle preferred by purists; hip, hedonistic which you can visit on
Brighton’s seaside heritage; and some of this a tour.
nautical nation’s most important ships, the Mary
Rose, HMS Victory and Brunel’s pioneering SS 4 p245
Great Britain. If only history lessons at school
had been this much fun. The Drive » Leave

Above: Traditional wooden punts, Oxford Winchester’s ancient streets
Right: Blenheim Palace to take the motorways towards

OLGA_ANOURINA / GETTY IMAGES © to 5pm Oct-Mar) is centred on VISITBRITAIN / BRITAIN ON VIEW / GETTY IMAGES ©
a 13th-century Cistercian
Southampton (initially the M3). monastery that fell to the 14th-century Gothic abbey
After 14 miles turn off onto the ancestors of the current gatehouse, and received
A35 towards Lyndhurst. From proprietors, the Montague a 19th-century Scottish
here it’s 9-miles to Beaulieu family, after Henry VIII’s makeover in the 1860s.
through the New Forest’s 1536 monastic land-grab.
increasingly wooded roads. Today its motor museum The Drive » The SatNav
includes F1 cars and
8 Beaulieu jet-powered land-speed wants to start this 28-mile leg
record-breakers and by routing you onto the A326.
The vintage car mu- wheels driven by James Resist! Opt for the A and B roads
seum and stately home at Bond and Mr Bean. The that wind through the villages of
Beaulieu (%01590-612345; palace began life as a Lyndhurst, Cadnam, Brook and
www.beaulieu.co.uk; adult/child North Charford, revealing the
£24/12; h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, New Forest’s enchanting blend of
woods and open heath. Eventually
join the A338 to Salisbury.

241

GREAT BRITAIN 17 The Historic South TRIP HIGHLIGHT most famous stone circle will b Avebury
soon pop into view. The entry to
9 Salisbury the site is just beyond. A two-minute stroll from
the car park (£7 per day)
Salisbury’s skyline is dom- a Stonehenge leads to a ring of stones
inated by the tallest spire that’s so big an entire vil-
in England, which soars Welcome to Britain’s most lage sits inside. Fringed
from its central, majestic iconic archaeological site: by a massive bank and
13th-century cathedral Stonehenge (EH; %0370 ditch and with a diame-
(%01722-555120; www.salis 333 1181; www.english-heritage. ter of 348m, Avebury (NT;
burycathedral.org.uk; Cathedral org.uk; adult/child on-the-day %01672-539250; www.nation-
Close; requested donation adult/ tickets £18/11, advance booking altrust.org.uk; h24hr; p) is
child £7.50/none; h9am-5pm £15.50/9.30; h9am-8pm the largest stone circle in
Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun). This Jun-Aug, 9.30am-7pm Apr, May the world. Dating from
early English Gothic–style & Sep, 9.30am-5pm Oct-Mar; 2500 to 2200 BC, more
structure’s elaborate p), a compelling ring of than 30 stones are still in
exterior is decorated monolithic stones that place and you can wan-
with pointed arches and dates, in parts, back to der between them and
flying buttresses, while its 3000 BC. Head into the clusters of other stones at
statuary and tombs are Visitor Centre to see 300 will. On the fringes, 16th-
outstanding. Don’t miss finds from the site and century Avebury Manor
the daily tower tours and experience an impressive (NT; %01672-539250; www.
the cathedral’s original, 360-degree projection of nationaltrust.org.uk; adult/
13th-century copy of the the stone circle through child £6.75/3.35; h11am-5pm
Magna Carta (h9.30am- the ages and seasons. Next Apr-Oct, to 4pm mid-Feb–Mar,
4.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-3.45pm hop on a trolley bus (or 11am-4pm Thu-Sun Nov & Dec)
Sun). The surrounding walk; it’s 1.5 miles) to the is home to interiors span-
Cathedral Close has a monument. There, as you ning five periods, rang-
hushed, other-worldly feel. stroll around it, play ‘spot- ing from Tudor, through
Nearby, the hugely im- the-stone’: look out for the Georgian, to the 1930s.
portant finds at Salisbury bluestone horseshoe (an
Museum (%01722-332151; inner semi-circle), the tri- 4 p219
www.salisburymuseum.org.uk; lithon horseshoe (sets of
65 Cathedral Close; adult/child two vertical stones topped The Drive » Next a cruise due
£8/4; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat by a horizontal one) and
year-round, plus noon-5pm Sun the Slaughter Stone and west; as the A4 winds for 30
Jun-Sep) include Iron Age Heel Stone (set apart, on miles past fields and through
gold coins, a Bronze Age the northeast side). Then villages to the city of Bath.
gold necklace and the try to work out what on
Stonehenge Archer, the earth it all means. Note c Bath
bones of a man found in that entrance is by timed
the ditch surrounding the ticket; secure yours well in Sophisticated, stately and
stone circle. advance. ever-so-slightly snooty,
Bath is graced with some
4 p73, p151 The Drive » Now for a 24-mile, of Britain’s finest Geor-
gian architecture. Wan-
The Drive » Next: a 10-mile A-road meander through rural dering around the streets
England. After dodging through (p294) is a real joy. For an
drive taking you back 5000 Devizes, it’s not long before insight into how the city
years. The A345 heads north. signs point left to Avebury’s came to have the shape it
Soon after joining the A303, main car park. does, head to the Museum
detail a passenger to watch the of Bath Architecture
right windows – the world’s

242

(%01225-333895; www. SITES AROUND STONEHENGE GREAT BRITAIN 17 The Historic South
museumof­batharchitecture.org.
uk; The Vineyards, The Paragon; As you drive the roads around Stonehenge it’s worth
adult/child £5.50/2.50; h2- registering that the site forms part of a huge complex
5pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-5pm Sat & of ancient monuments. North of Stonehenge
Sun mid-Feb–Nov). The Bath and running roughly east–west is the Cursus,
Assembly Rooms (www. an elongated embanked oval; the smaller Lesser
nationaltrust.org.uk; 19 Bennett Cursus is nearby. Two clusters of burial mounds, the
St; h10.30am-5pm Mar-Oct, Old Barrow and the New Kings Barrow, sit beside
to 4pm Nov-Feb), where the ceremonial pathway The Avenue. This routeway
socialites once gathered, originally linked the site with the River Avon, 2 miles
gives an insight into the away. Theories abound as to what these sites were
Georgian world. Discover used for, ranging from ancient sporting arenas to
the city’s culinary heritage processional avenues for the dead.
at Sally Lunn’s (%01225-
461634; www.sallylunns.co.uk; 4 0680; www.ssgreatbritain. Feb-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Jan),
North Pde Passage; mains £6-17; meanwhile, features a
h10am-9.30pm Sun-Thu, to org; Great Western Dock, Gas rare camera obscura
10pm Fri & Sat), which bakes which offers incredible
the famous Bath Bun Ferry Rd; adult/child £14/8; views of the deep fissure
(a brioche-meets-bread that is the Avon Gorge.
treat). For a free glass h10am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, to
of the spring water that 4.30pm Nov-Mar) sits on 5 p245
made the city rich, stop the city’s waterfront.
by the Pump Room (www. Designed in 1843 by engi- The Drive » Travelling partly
romanbaths.co.uk; Stall St; neering genius Isambard
h10am-5pm). Then perhaps Kingdom Brunel, its inte- on motorways and partly on
soak in it: at Thermae rior has been impeccably A-roads, the next 80-mile leg
Bath Spa (%01225-331234; refurbished, including sees you skirting Oxford (for
www.thermaebathspa.com; the galley, the surgeon’s now) and arriving at the tree-
Hot Bath St; Mon-Fri £34, Sat & quarters and a working lined avenue that leads to one of
Sun £37; h9am-9.30pm, last model of the original Britain’s finest stately homes.
entry 7pm), steam rooms, steam engine. The whole
waterfall showers and a vessel is contained in TRIP HIGHLIGHT
choice of swimming pools an air-tight dry dock,
(including a gorgeous dubbed a ‘glass sea’. At e Blenheim Palace
rooftop one) will help you the Bristol Museum & Art
relax. Gallery (%0117-922 3571; A monumental baroque
www.bristolmuseums.org.uk; fantasy designed by
4 p245 Sir John Vanbrugh
Queen’s Rd; h10am-5pm Mon- and Nicholas Hawks-
The Drive » It’s a 13-mile blast Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun) take moor, Blenheim Palace
in the Paint-Pot Angel (%01993-810530; www.blen
from Bath to Bristol along the by world-famous street heimpalace.com; Woodstock;
A36/A4. artist Banksy. In the adult/child £24.90/13.90, park
suburb of Clifton explore & gardens only £14.90/6.90;
d Bristol Georgian architecture, hpalace 10.30am-5.30pm,
especially in Cornwallis park & gardens 9am-6pm;
In Bristol a fascinating and Royal York Cres- p) was built between
seafaring heritage meets cents. The Clifton Obser- 1705 and 1722. The house
an edgy, contemporary vatory (%0117-974 1242; is stuffed with statues,
vibe. The mighty SS www.cliftonobservatory.com; tapestries, ostentatious
Great Britain (%0117-926 furniture, priceless china
Litfield Rd, Clifton Down; adult/ and giant oil paintings.

child £2.50/1.50; h10am-5pm

243

GREAT BRITAIN 17 The Historic South DETOUR: is rich in history and
LACOCK studded with august
buildings. The city has 38
Start: b Avebury (p242) colleges – Christ Church
(%01865-276492; www.chch.
Around 16 miles into your Avebury-to-Bath cruise, ox.ac.uk; St Aldate’s; adult/child
consider a detour south. A drive of just 4 extra miles £8/7; h10am-4.15pm Mon-Sat,
leads to a real rarity: a medieval village that’s been 2-4.15pm Sun) is the largest,
preserved in time. In Lacock, the sweet streets with 650 students, and
framed by stone cottages, higgledy-piggledy rooftops has the grandest quad.
and mullioned windows are a delight to stroll around. Founded in 1524 by
Unsurprisingly, it’s a popular movie location – it’s Cardinal Thomas Wolsey,
popped up in the Harry Potter films, The Other Boleyn alumni include Albert
Girl and a BBC adaptation of Pride and Prejudice. Einstein and 13 British
The 13th-century former Augustinian nunnery of prime ministers. It’s also
Lacock Abbey (NT; %01249-730459; www.nationaltrust. famous as a location for
org.uk; Hither Way; adult/child £12/6; h10.30am-5.30pm the Harry Potter films. At
Mar-Oct, 11am-4pm Nov-Feb) is a must-see: its deeply the Ashmolean (%01865-
atmospheric rooms and stunning Gothic entrance 278000; www.ashmolean.org;
hall are lined with bizarre terracotta figures – spot the Beaumont St; h10am-5pm
scapegoat with a lump of sugar on its nose. The Fox Tue-Sun), Britain’s oldest
Talbot Museum (NT; %01249-730459; www.nationaltrust. public museum showcases
org.uk; Hither Way; adult/child £12/6, includes entry to Lacock treasures such as Egyp-
Abbey; h10.30am-5.30pm Mar-Oct, 11am-4pm Nov-Feb) tian mummies, Indian
features an intriguing display on early photography, textiles and Islamic art.
while the George Inn (www.georgeinnlacock.co.uk; 4 West Beautiful Magdalen
St; mains £10-16; hfood noon-2.30pm & 6-9pm Mon-Sat, College (%01865-276000;
6-8pm Sun) is an atmospheric pub in which to re-fuel. www.magd.ox.ac.uk; High
St; adult/child £5/4, 45min
Highlights include the ity’ Brown. A minitrain tours £6; h1-6pm Oct-Jun,
Great Hall, a soaring (50p) whisks you to the noon-7pm Jul-Sep, tours 6pm
space topped by a 20m- Pleasure Gardens, which daily Jul-Sep) is worth a visit
high ceiling adorned with feature a yew maze, for its medieval chapel,
images of the first duke. adventure playground, 15th-century cloisters
Britain’s legendary WWII lavender garden and and 40-hectare grounds.
prime minister, Sir Win- butterfly house. Nearby, let someone else
ston Churchill, was born navigate for a bit: head to
here in 1874 – the Church- The Drive » From Blenheim’s
ill Exhibition is dedi- Magdalen Bridge Boat-
cated to his life, work, grandeur, it’s a 10-mile pootle house (%01865-202643;
paintings and writings. down the A44/A4144 to Oxford’s www.oxfordpunting.co.uk; High
The house is encircled by dreaming spires. St; chauffeured 4-person punt
vast, lavish gardens and per 30min £30, punt rental
parklands, parts of which f Oxford per hour £24; h9.30am-dusk
were landscaped by the Feb-Nov) for a ride on a
great Lancelot ‘Capabil- One of the world’s most chauffeured punt.
famous university towns,
the centre of Oxford 4 p245

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Eating & Sleeping

Canterbury 3 wonky stairs sit beside duck-your-head beams.
The cheaper bedrooms are swish but the posher
4 Cathedral Gate Hotel Hotel ££ ones are stunning, starring slipper baths and
the odd heraldic crest. The pick is room 6,
(%01227-464381; www.cathgate.co.uk; 36 where King Charles is reputed to have stayed.

Burgate; s/d £50/112, without bathroom

£50/81.50; W) Predating the spectacular Bath c

cathedral gate it adjoins, this quaint 15th- GREAT BRITAIN 17 The Historic South

century hotel is a medieval warren of steep 4 Queensberry Hotel Hotel £££

staircases and narrow passageways leading to (%01225-447928; www.thequeensberry.

27 pleasingly old-fashioned rooms with angled co.uk; 4 Russell St; r £125-185, ste £225-275;

floors, low doors and cockeyed walls. Some W) Award-winning, quirky Queensberry is

have cathedral views, while others overlook Bath’s best boutique spoil. Four Georgian

pretty Buttermarket. There’s no lift. town houses have been combined into one

seamlessly stylish whole where heritage roots

Brighton 5 meet snazzy designs; expect everything from

4 Artist Residence Boutique Hotel £££ gingham checks and country creams to bright

(%01273-324 302; www.artistresidence upholstery, original fireplaces and free-standing
brighton.co.uk; 33 Regency Sq; d £129-260; W)
Eclectic doesn’t quite describe the rooms at tubs. Rates exclude breakfast; parking is £7.
this wonderful 23-room townhouse hotel, set
amid the splendour of Regency Sq. As befits the Bristol d
name, every bedroom is a work of funky art with
bold wall murals, bespoke and vintage furniture, 5 Riverstation British ££
rough wood cladding and in-room roll-top baths.
The Set Restaurant downstairs has a glowing (%0117-914 4434; www.riverstation.co.uk;
reputation. Book direct and breakfast is free.
The Grove; lunch 2/3 courses £14/17, dinner

mains £15-18; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm)

Riverstation is one of Bristol’s original dining-

out destinations, and still leads the pack. The

waterside location is hard to beat, with a view

Winchester 7 over the Floating Harbour, but it’s the food that

4 St John’s Croft keeps the punters coming back: classic in style

B&B ££ with a strong European flavour, from French fish

(%01962-859976; www.st-johns-croft.co.uk; St soup to steak à la béarnaise.

John’s St; s/d/f £55/90/120; pW) You may fall

in love with this oh-so-casually stylish, rambling Oxford f

Queen Anne townhouse, where rattan carpets are

teamed with bulging bookcases, and Indian art 4 Burlington House B&B ££

with shabby-chic antiques. The rooms are vast, (%01865-513513; www.burlington-hotel-oxford.

the garden is tranquil and breakfast is served co.uk; 374 Banbury Rd, Summertown; s/d from

beside the Aga in the country-house kitchen. £70/96; pW) Twelve elegantly contemporary

rooms with patterned wallpaper, immaculate

Salisbury 9 bathrooms and luxury touches are available at

4 Chapter House this beautifully refreshed Victorian merchant’s

Inn ££ house. Personal service is as sensational as

(%01722-412028; www.thechapterhouseuk. the delicious breakfast, complete with organic

com; 9 St Johns St; r £100-140) In this 800-year- eggs and homemade bread. It’s 2 miles north of

old boutique beauty, wood panels and wildly central Oxford, with good public transport links.

245

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GRAHAM NORTON/500PX © #

18Classic Lakes

Beloved of poets and painters, this road trip takes in the scenic
wonders of the UK’s largest and loveliest national park.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

45 miles 25 miles 5 DAYS
Grasmere 162 MILES /
Borrowdale & Visit two of 260KM
Buttermere Wordsworth's houses
Explore these classic GREAT FOR...
Lakeland valleys
BG
# Cockermouth
BEST TIME TO GO
# Whitehaven Keswick mK
Summer and Easter
# # Glenridding can be hectic in the
Lakes; spring and
#6# autumn are best.

##8 ##4 Ambleside I ESSENTIAL
#1#0 PHOTO
#
Posing in Wasdale,
lLBowness-on- amid England’s
highest hills.
# Windermere
K BEST FOR
Wasdale Hardknott Pass FAMILIES
Conquer England's Traverse the Lake
highest mountain District's steepest Bike trails, sculptures
103 miles road pass and ziplines at
130 miles Grizedale Forest.

LoakceatDioisntCriacpttBiolenadTeatranil,snteoagroWhreynreose Pass 247

·/Solway

Firth
A596

Workington #] /·A66

18 Classic Lakes Parton \#

William Wordsworth, Samuel Taylor Coleridge and Whitehaven Rowrah
Beatrix Potter are just a few of the literary luminaries
who have fallen in love with the Lake District. It’s ]# \#
been a national park since 1951, and is studded by
England’s highest hills (fells), including the highest Frizington \# #\
of all, Scafell Pike (978m). This drive takes in lakes,
forest, hills and valleys, with country houses, hill Cleator Moor\# \#
walks and cosy pubs thrown in for good measure.
H# Parkside

p255

St Bees \#

Egremont\#

/·A595

Sellafield River Ehen
Nuclear
#\
Plant

Seascale \#
Irish
Sea

1 Bowness-on- offers regular trips, or restaurants: don’t miss
Windermere you can hire your own a meal at the Lake Road
rowing boat beside the Kitchen (p259), run by
England’s largest lake, jetty and travel at your an imaginative chef who
at nearly 9 miles long, own leisurely pace. trained at the legendary
Windermere makes an Noma in Copenhagen.
obvious starting point 4 p259 Afterwards, work off
for a Lakeland road trip. The Drive » From Bowness, some calories with a
The town is actually split walk up to the waterfall
into two: Windermere, follow Rayrigg Rd north until it of Stock Ghyll Force.
a mile or so uphill from joins the A591 which rolls all the
the lake, and waterfront way to Ambleside, 6 miles north. 5 p259
Bowness-on-Windermere.
Cruising the lake is 2 Ambleside
the classic pastime
here: Windermere Lake Around Windermere’s
Cruises (%015394-43360; upper end lies the old
www.windermere-lakecruises. mill town of Ambleside.
It’s a pretty place, well
co.uk; tickets from £2.70) stocked with outdoors
shops and some excellent

248