The Places You Must See In This World (DK Eyewitness Travel Guides)

TOP TIP: monumental work of the
GUEST CARDS legendary artist-brothers,
Dominikus and Johann
Overnight anywhere in the Alps and your hotel Baptist Zimmermann.
should issue you with a free Gästekarte, which gives
free bus travel as well as many other discounts on In 1730 a farmer in
admission and activities. Steingaden claimed he’d
witnessed the miracle of
niskirche (Vorderer Anger) is melfahrt (Kirchenstrasse 23), his Christ statue shedding GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road
a creation by the baroque which sports a choir by tears. Pilgrims poured into
architect Dominikus Dominikus Zimmermann. the town in such numbers
Zimmermann, who lived over the next decade that
in Landsberg and even The Drive » To reach the the local abbot commis-
served as its mayor. The sioned a new church to
town’s Neues Stadtmuse- next Romantic Road stop, the house the weepy work.
um (www.museum-landsberg. Wieskirche (21km away), take Inside the almost-circular
de; Von-Helfenstain-Gasse 426; the B17 south until you reach structure, eight snow-white
adult/concession €3.50/2; Steingaden. From there country pillars are topped by gold
h2-5pm Tue-Fri, from 11am Sat roads lead east and then south capital stones and swirling
& Sun May-Jan, closed Feb-Apr) to Wies. This is where Bavaria decorations. The unsup-
tells Landsberg’s tale starts to take on the look of ported dome must have
from prehistory to the the Alps, with flower-filled seemed like God’s work
20th century. meadows in summer and views in the mid-17th century,
of the high peaks when the its surface adorned with
The Drive » Still tracing weather is clear. a pastel ceiling fresco
celebrating Christ’s
the valley of the River Lech, c Wieskirche resurrection.
the 28km drive along the B17
between Landsberg am Lech Located in the village The Drive » From the
and Schongau shouldn’t take of Wies, the Wieskirche
more than 30 minutes. En route (%08862-932 930; www. Wieskirche, the best way to
you pass through Hohenfurch, a wieskirche.de; h8am-8pm Apr- reach the next stop at Füssen is
pretty little town regarded as the Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) is one to backtrack to Steingaden and
gateway to the Pfaffenwinkel, a of Bavaria’s best-known rejoin the B17 there. The entire
foothill region of the Alps. baroque churches and journey is 27km through the
a Unesco-listed site, the increasingly undulating foothills
of the Alps, with some gorgeous
views of the ever-nearing peaks
along the way.

b Schongau LANDSBERG’S DARK LITERARY
CONNECTIONS
One of the lesser-visited
stops on the Romantic Landsberg am Lech can claim to be the town where
Road, the attractive town one of the German language’s best-selling books
of Schongau is known for was written. Was it a work by Goethe, Remarque,
its largely intact medieval Brecht? No, unfortunately, it was Adolf Hitler. It was
defences. The Gothic during his 264 days of incarceration in a Landsberg
Ballenhaus (Marienplatz jail, following the 1923 beer-hall putsch, that Hitler
2) served as the town penned his hate-filled Mein Kampf, a book that sold
hall until 1902 and has a an estimated seven million copies when published.
distinctive stepped gable. The jail later held Nazi war criminals and is still in use.
It now houses a cafe.
Other attractions include
the Church of Maria Him-

499

PAUL BIRIS / GETTY IMAGES ©d Füssen 73 (www.rvo-bus.de) run there
from Füssen Bahnhof (€4.40
GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road Nestled at the foot of the return, eight minutes, at least
Alps, tourist-busy Füssen hourly, buy tickets from the
is all about the nearby driver).
castles of Neuschwan-
stein and Hohenschwan- TRIP HIGHLIGHT
gau, but there are other
reasons to linger longer e Neuschwanstein
in the area. The town’s & Hohenschwangau
historical centre is worth Castles
half a day’s exploration
and, from here, you can The undisputed high-
easily escape from the lights of any trip to
crowds into a landscape Bavaria, these two castles
of gentle hiking trails make a fitting climax to
and Alpine vistas. When the Romantic Road.
you’ve had your fill of
these, take an hour or Schloss Neuschwan-
two to drop by Füssen’s stein (%tickets 08362-930
very own castle, the 830; www.neuschwanstein.
Hohes Schloss (Magnus- de; Neuschwansteinstrasse
platz 10; adult/concession 20; adult/concession €12/11,
€6/4; hgalleries 11am-5pm incl Hohenschwangau €23/21;
Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 1-4pm Fri-Sun h9am-6pm Apr–mid-Oct,
Nov-Mar), today home to 10am-4pm mid-Oct–Mar) was
an art gallery. the model for Disney’s
Sleeping Beauty castle.
5 4 p503 King Ludwig II planned
this fairy-tale pile
The Drive » To drive to King himself, with the help of
a stage designer rather
Ludwig II’s castles, take the B17 than an architect. He
across the river until you see envisioned it as a giant
the signs for Hohenschwangau. stage on which to recre-
Parking is at a premium in ate the world of Germanic
summer. However, as the castles mythology, inspired by
are a mere 4km from the centre the operatic works of his
of Füssen it’s probably not worth friend Richard Wagner.
driving at all. RVO buses 78 and

TOP TIP:
VISITING NEUSCHWANSTEIN &
HOHENSCHWANGAU CASTLES

The castles can only be visited on guided tours (35 minutes). Buy timed tickets from
the Ticket Centre (%08362-930 830; www.hohenschwangau.de; Alpenseestrasse 12; h8am-
5.30pm Apr–mid-Oct, 9am-3.30pm mid-Oct–Mar) at the foot of the castles. In summer, arrive
as early as 8am to ensure you get in that day.

500

Bavaria Schloss Neuschwanstein

It was at nearby Neuschwanstein €23/21; 1886. His father, Maximil-
h8am-5.30pm Apr–mid-Oct, ian II, built this palace in
Schloss Hohenschwan- 9am-3.30pm mid-Oct–Mar) a neo-Gothic style atop
gau (%08362-930 830; that King Ludwig II grew 12th-century ruins. Less
www.hohenschwangau.de; up and later enjoyed sum- showy than Neuschwan-
Alpseestrasse 30; adult/ mers until his death in stein, Hohenschwangau
concession €12/11, incl

501

Eating & Sleeping

Würzburg 1 5 Zur Höll Franconian €€

GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road (%09861-4229; www.hoell.rothenburg.de;

5 Bürgerspital Burggasse 8; mains €6.80-20; h5-11pm) This

Weinstube Wine Restaurant €€ medieval wine tavern is in the town’s oldest

original building, with sections dating back to

(%0931-352 880; Theaterstrasse 19; mains €13- the year 900. The menu of regional specialities

24; h10am-11pm) If you are going to eat out just is limited but refined, though it’s the superb

once in Würzburg, the aromatic and cosy nooks selection of Franconian wines that people really

of this labyrinthine medieval place probably come for.

provide the top local experience. Choose from

a broad selection of Franconian wines (some of Dinkelsbühl 5

Germany’s best) and wonderful regional dishes

and snacks, including Mostsuppe (a tasty wine 5 Haus

soup). Appelberg Franconian, International €€

4 Hotel Rebstock Hotel €€ (%09851-582 838; www.haus-appelberg.de;
Nördlinger Strasse 40; dishes €6-11; h6pm-
(%0931-309 30; www.rebstock.com; midnight Mon-Sat) At this 40-cover wine
restaurant, the owners double up as cooks to
Neubaustrasse 7; s/d from €92/113; aiW) keep tables supplied with traditional dishes
such as local fish, Franconian sausages and
Würzburg’s top digs, in a squarely renovated Maultaschen (pork and spinach ravioli). On
warm days swap the rustic interior for the
rococo townhouse, has 70 unique, stylishly secluded terrace, a fine spot for some evening
idling over a Franconian white.
finished rooms with the gamut of amenities,

impeccable service and an Altstadt location.

A pillow selection and supercomfy ‘gel’ beds

should ease you into slumberland, perhaps after

a fine meal in the dramatic bistro or the slick

Michelin-star restaurant. 4 Dinkelsbühler

Rothenburg ob der Tauber 4 Kunst-Stuben Guesthouse €€

(%09851-6750; www.kunst-stuben.de;

5 Mittermeier Bavarian €€ Segringer Strasse 52; s €60, d €80-85, ste €90;

(%09861-945 430; www.villamittermeier. niW) Personal attention and charm by the

de; Vorm Würzburger Tor 7; mains €12-19; bucketload make this guesthouse, situated near

h6-10.30pm Tue-Sat; pW) Supporters of the the westernmost gate (Segringer Tor), one of

slow food movement and deserved holders of the best on the entire Romantic Road. Furniture

a Michelin Bib Gourmand, this hotel restaurant (including the four-posters) is all handmade

pairs punctilious craftsmanship with top-notch by Voglauer, the cosy library is perfect for

ingredients, sourced regionally whenever curling up in with a good read, and the suite is a

possible. There are five different dining areas matchless deal for travelling families. The artist

including a black-and-white tiled ‘temple’, and owner will show his Asia travel films if enough

alfresco terrace and a barrel-shaped wine cellar. guests are interested.

The wine list is one of the best in Franconia.

502

Nördlingen 6 pniWs) Augsburg’s top choice packs
a 500-year-old former bishop’s guesthouse
5 La Fontana Italian € (Martin Luther and Kaiser Maxmilian I stayed
here) with 57 rooms, all different but sharing a
(Bei den Kornschrannen 2; mains around €8; stylishly understated air and pristine upkeep;
some have cathedral views. However, the big
h11am-11pm) Nördlingen’s most popular pluses here are the large swimming pool, fitness
centre and solarium. Parking is an extra €6.
restaurant is this large Italian pizza-pasta place

occupying the terracotta Kornschrannen as well

as tumbling tables out onto Schrannenstrasse.

The menu is long, the service swift and when Füssen d

the sun is shining there’s no lovelier spot to fill GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road

the hole. 5 Zum Franziskaner Bavarian €€

4 Kaiserhof Hotel Sonne Hotel €€ (Kemptener Strasse 1; mains €6-19.50; hnoon-

(%09081-5067; www.kaiserhof-hotel-sonne.de; 11pm) This revamped restaurant specialises
Marktplatz 3; s €55-75, d €80-120; pW) Right
on the main square, Nördlingen’s top digs once in Schweinshaxe (pork knuckle) and schnitzel,
hosted crowned heads and their entourages,
but have quietly gone to seed in recent years. prepared in more varieties than you can shake
However, rooms are still packed with character,
mixing modern comforts with traditional charm, a haunch at. There’s some choice for non-
and the atmospheric regional restaurant
downstairs is still worth a shot. carnivores such as Käsespätzle (rolled cheese

noodles) and salads, and when the sun shines

the outdoor seating shares the pavement with

the ‘foot-washing’ statue.

5 Zum Hechten Bavarian €€

(Ritterstrasse 6; mains €8-19; h10am-10pm)

Augsburg 9 Füssen’s best hotel restaurant keeps things

5 August regional with a menu of Allgäu staples like

International €€€ schnitzel and noodles, Bavarian pork-themed

(%0821-352 79; Frauentorstrasse 27; dinner favourites, and local specialities such as

€130; hfrom 7pm Wed-Sat) Most Augsburgers venison goulash from the Ammertal. Post-

have little inkling their city possesses two meal, relax in the wood-panelled dining room

Michelin stars, both of which belong to chef caressing a König Ludwig Dunkel, one of

Christian Grünwald. Treat yourself to some Germany’s best dark beers brewed by the

of Bavaria’s most innovative cooking in the current head of the Wittelsbach family.

minimalist dining room, though with just 16 4 Hotel Sonne Design Hotel €€

covers, reservations are essential. (%08362-9080; www.hotel-sonne.de;

5 Bauerntanz German €€ Prinzregentenplatz 1; s/d from €89/109; pW)

(Bauerntanzgässchen 1; mains €7-17; h11am- Although traditional looking from outside,

11.30pm) Belly-satisfying helpings of creative this Altstadt favourite offers an unexpected

Swabian and Bavarian food – Spätzle (a kind of design-hotel experience within. Themed rooms

soft egg noodle or dumpling) and more Spätzle – feature everything from swooping bed canopies

are plated up by friendly staff at this prim Alpine to big-print wallpaper, huge pieces of wall art

tavern with lace curtains, hefty timber interior to sumptious fabrics. The public spaces are

and chequered fabrics. When the sun makes littered with pieces of art, period costumes and

an appearance, everyone bails for the outdoor design features – the overall effect is impressive

seating. and unusual for this part of Germany.

4 Dom Hotel Hotel €€

(%0821-343 930; www.domhotel-augsburg.

de; Frauentorstrasse 8; s €70-150, d €95-190;

503

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SERGEY KOHL / 500PX ©

German Fairy

36Tale Road

You might just live happily ever after! You’ll certainly end this
trip happy, having explored a beautiful swath of Germany and
learned the real stories behind Brothers Grimm fairy tales.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 5 DAYS
705 KM / 440 MILES
642 km mKBremerhaven
Bremen # GREAT FOR…
See the home (and #1#2
statue) of the Town BJG
Musicians of Bremen
BEST TIME TO GO
468 km #
Hamelin Enjoy this trip May to
You don't have to be a Hanover September.
rat to be led to this
captivating town #1#0 I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
276 km # Göttingen
Kassel Bremen’s Town
Brothers Grimm at the ##5 Musicians of Bremen
unmissable sculpture.
Grimmwelt ##3
K BEST FOR
160 km lLHanau # FAMILIES
Marburg
Imagine yourself living Grimmwelt, Kassel’s
in a fairy tale in this new attraction
beautiful old town dedicated to all things
Brothers Grimm and
fairy-tale-worthy.

Marburg St Elizabeth’s Church 505

Aurich Wilmhelmshaven
#\
#] #]
Nordenham #\

e# 0 40 km
0 20 miles

36 German Fairy Tale #\Leer
Road
Ems Oldenburg ]#
Tirelessly roaming the villages and towns of 19th- gge
century Germany, the Brothers Grimm collected 209 0¸B401
folk tales that had been passed down for countless
generations. The stories they published often bear Cloppenburg
little resemblance to the sanitised versions spoon-
fed to kids today; rather they are morality tales with Sudradde #\
blood, gore, sex, the supernatural, magic and much
more. See the locations of the stories and learn about Meppen
these remarkable brothers on this trip, which includes
a few non-Grimm fairy-tale sights as well. #\

\# Lingen #\

Diepholz

\# Ibbenbüren ]# Osnabruck
#\
Rheine

Münster Ems ]#
Gütersloh \#
]#

Ahlen Li ppeLipp#\stadt

·/A1 #\
Hamm
\#

Soest
#\
#^Dortmund
hanau; Philippsruher Allee
1 Hanau 45; adult/concession €4/3; Hagen Ruhr Arnsberg
h11am-6pm Tue-Sun) has #\ \# Iserlohn \#
A mere 20km east of displays on town history,
Frankfurt on the Main and arts and crafts. The #\
River, Hanau is the parks and gardens (free)
birthplace of the Brothers are a beautiful stroll in Meschede
Grimm (Jacob in 1785 snow or in summer. #^
and Wilhelm in 1786) and #\ Ludenscheid
is a perfect place to begin The Drive » Hop on the A66
this trip. Not that their Gummersbach Bi
birth is especially com- for a quick 50km run through\# \#
memorated here… the rolling hills to Steinau. #\ Olpe

Located within 2 Steinau #\ Kreuztal
Philippsruhe Palace, dat-
ing from the early 18th Steinau is situated on \# Siegen
century, the Historisches the historic trade road R Sieg
between Frankfurt and
Museum Schloss Philipp- Leipzig. (Note that the /·A45
sruhe (%06181-295 564; full name of the town i#\s
www.hanau.de/kultur/museen/ Wetzlar #\

Neuwied

#\

]# Koblenz \# Limburg
La
hn

\# GF/·A6134 Wiesbaden

/·B42 ]#

506 \# Mainz #]

#\ \##\#\ #\
\#

\# \#
\#
\#

#\ \#

Km \#Stade Hamburg /·A24 ‘Steinau an der Strasse’,
an important distinction
#]#13 Bremerhaven #^ when using your map
app as there’s another
·/B71 #\ Bremervörde /·B5 Steinau way up by the
·/A27 North Sea.)
·/B71 #\ #\ Lüneburg
The twin musuems,
Buchholz Brüder Grimm-Haus
in der and Museum Steinau
(%06663-7605; www.brueder-
Nordheide grimm-haus.de; Brüder Grimm-
Strasse 80, Steinau; adult/
BremenWeser Wumm Soltau \# #\ Uelzen concession €6/3.50; h10am-
e 5pm), inside the building
#^#12 ·/A27 where the Grimm family GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road
lived from 1791 to 1796,
\# have exhibits on the
brothers, their work and
Delmenhorst Weser the history of Steinau.

Aller The Drive » Exit Steinau to
A7 \# Celle
/· ·/\# B4 the west on the L3196 for 18km
#\ Nienburg to the B276 where you’ll turn
north. Weave through the valleys
0¸A352 Gifhorn for 64km until the junction
Garbsen with the L3166 and follow the
##\ Hanover Oker \# Marburg signs along the L3127,
11 L3089, L3048 and L3125 to your
Wolfsburg ]# #\destination. Picnic spots abound
along the route.
\# Minden Braunschweig
]# LINK
¸0Bünde YOUR
\# Bad Wes B217 Hildesheim Wolfenbuttel TRIP
Salzuflen
]# A39 #\ #\ y Romantic Rhine
#·/ /· ·/]# er Get your fill of castles
1#\0 Hamelin Salzgitter and medieval villages: the
\# end of the river trip is 65km
east of Hanau.
Bielefeld B83 B3
#\# 9 z The Romantic
Bodenwerder Goslar Road
#\ Detmold \#
Do one of the trips in
·/B83 Harz NP R reverse: the start of the
B(1r1o4c1kmen) quaint and historical
Höxter \# #\ Romantic Road is about an
hour (110km) west from
#\ Paderborn #8 Osterode Hanau.

am Harz 507

Bad Karlshafen

/· #B80 7]# Göttingen

0¸L561

Kassel /·A7 ·/L eine A38
##Korbach rra
Wilhelmshöhe 5 We
da
#\ 6

Kellerwald-Edersee Mühlhausen #\ Unstr ut
Hainich NP
#National Park
4
Eder ·/A49 ·/B7
Eder
Ful

·/Bad A4 \#

Hersfeld Eisenach

#\

#3\# Marburg ·/A5 Schmalkalden

/·A7 #\
Werra
Giessen #]
\# Fulda #\ Meiningen \#
Suhl
¸0 H#B276
p508 ·/A71
0¸L3196
##\2 S\#chwMeainifnurt

Frankfurt /·A66 Steinau /·A70
am Main 48 km to
‚
#^# #\1 FG35

LlHanau

GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road TRIP HIGHLIGHT focal Marktplatz is the St-Marien-Kirche or the
historic Rathaus (town Marktplatz, is the mas-
3 Marburg hall), dating to 1512. At sive Landgrafenschloss
the base of the Altstadt’s (%991 20; www.uni-marburg.
Hilly, historic and delight- Reitgasse is the neo- de/uni-museum; Schloss
ful, the university town Gothic Alte Universität 1; adult/concession €4/3;
of Marburg is situated (1891), still a well-used h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), built
90km north of Frankfurt. and well-loved part of between 1248 and 1300.
It’s a delight to wander Philipps-Universität – the It offers panoramic views
around the narrow lanes world’s oldest Protestant of bucolic hills, jumbled
of the town’s vibrant university. Founded in Marburg rooftops and
Altstadt (old town), sand- 1527, it once counted the the Schlosspark.
wiched between a palace Brothers Grimm among
(above) and the spec- its students. 5 4 p516
tacular Gothic church,
St Elizabeth’s (below). Perched at the high- The Drive » Leave Marburg
On the south side of the est point in town, a
steep walk up from to the north on the B3, after
18km turn north on the
L3073. Continue north for

DETOUR:
FULDA

Start: 2 Steinau (p506)

Although it’s not quite on the Fairy Tale Road, photogenic Fulda is well worth a side
trip for those interested in sumptuous baroque architecture, historic churches and
religious reliquaries. A Benedictine monastery was founded here in 744, and today
Fulda has its own bishop.

Inside the baroque Dom zu Fulda (%0661-874 57; www.bistum-fulda.de; Domplatz 1;
h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, 1-6pm Sun), built from 1704 to 1712, you’ll find gilded
furnishings, plenty of putti (figures of infant boys), some dramatic statues (eg to the
left of the altar) and the tomb of St Boniface, who died a martyr in 754.

Fulda’s history started in Michaelskirche (Michaelsberg 1; h10am-5pm). A still-
standing reminder of the abbey that made this town, this remarkable church was
the monastic burial chapel. Beneath classic witch’s-hat towers, a Carolingian
rotunda and crypt recall Fulda’s flourishing Middle Ages, when the abbey
scriptorium churned out top-flight illuminated manuscripts.

Don’t miss Fulda’s spectacular Stadtschloss (%0661-1020; a​ dult/concession
€3.50/2.30; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), built from 1706 to 1721 as the prince-abbots’
residence. It now houses the city administration and function rooms. Visitors can
enter the ornate Historiche Räume (historic rooms), including the grandiose
banquet hall, and the octagonal Schlossturm (April to October) for great views
of the town and magnificent Schlossgarten (palace gardens), where locals play
pétanque (boules) and sunbathe in summer.

The palace’s fairy-tale qualities capture the era’s extravagance. Don’t miss the
amazing Speigelkabinett (Chamber of Mirrors) and grandiose Fürstensaal, a
banquet hall decorated with reliefs of tipsy-looking wine queens. Also, there are
pretty views from the Green Room over the gardens to the Orangerie.

Fulda is a mere 40km northeast of Steinau on the A66.

508

37km through Gemunden and to 5pm Nov-Mar) at the west- Tue & Thu-Sun, to 8pm Wed) GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road
Frankenau to Edertal where ern end of the Edersee. aims at burying the taboo
you’ll find the park. Note how of discussing death.
the forest gets thicker and The Drive » Drive east on
darker as you go. 5 4 p516
the L3332, B485 and the B253
4 Kellerwald- for 28km until you reach the The Drive » Your shortest
Edersee National A49 autobahn and zip along
Park northeast until you reach Kassel. jaunt of the trip takes you 6km
west through Kassel’s leafy
Kellerwald-Edersee Na- TRIP HIGHLIGHT suburbs. Take Wilhelmshöher
tional Park (www.national Allee.
park-kellerwald-edersee.de) 5 Kassel
encompasses one of the 6 Wilhelmshöhe
largest extant red-beech Visitors to this culture-
forests in Central Europe, rich, sprawling hub on Wilhelmshöhe is the
the Kellerwald, and the the Fulda River discover classy end of Kassel.
Edersee, a serpentine a pleasant, modern city. You can spend a full day
artificial reservoir 55km exploring the spectacu-
northeast of Marburg and Occupying a prime lar baroque parkland,
about the same distance position atop the Wein- Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe
southwest of Kassel. In berg bunker in the scenic (www.museum-kassel.de;
2011 this national park, Weinbergpark is the h9am-sunset), which takes
along with Hainich Na- truly most unmissable its name from Schloss
tional Park in Thuringia attraction on this trip: Wilhelmshöhe (%0561-316
and a cluster of other Kassel’s newest musuem, 800; www.museum-kassel.de;
parks and reserves with Grimmwelt (%0561-598 Schlosspark 1; adult/concession
large beech forests, 610; www.grimmwelt.de; Wein- €6/4, Weissenstein wing incl
became a Unesco World bergstrasse; adult/concession tour €4/3; h10am-5pm Tue
Cultural Heritage site. €8/6; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun). & Thu-Sun, to 8pm Wed), the
It could be described as late-18th-century palace
On a fairy-tale trip, it’s an architect-designed situated inside the ex-
fitting to wander into the walk-in sculpture hous- panse. Walk through the
deep woods, never forget- ing the most significant forest, enjoy a romantic
ting that if your name is collection of Brothers picnic and explore the
Grimm, nothing good is Grimm memorabilia on castles, fountains, grot-
bound to happen. If you’re the planet. Visitors are toes, statues and water
lucky, you may see larger guided around original features: the Herkules
land animals including exhibits, state-of-the-art (www.museum-kassel.de;
red deer; while overhead installations and fun, Schlosspark Wilhelmshöhe 26,
you might spot eagles and hands-on activities, Herkules-Terrassen; adult/
honey buzzards and, at aided by entries from the concession €3/2; h10am-5pm
night, various species of Grimms’ German dic- mid-Mar–mid-Nov) statue
bat. (The brothers would tionary: there were more and Löwenburg castle are
approve of that.) to these famous brothers also here.
than just fairy tales,
For information, head didn’t you know? The palace could star
to the striking modern in any fairy tale. Home
visitors centre (%05635- Billed as ‘a medita- to Elector Wilhelm and
992 781; www.nationalpark tive space for funerary later Kaiser Wilhelm II,
zentrum-kellerwald.de; B252, art’, the Museum für the opulent complex today
Vöhl-Herzhausen; e-bikes per Sepulkralkultur (Museum of houses one of Germany’s
day €20; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, Sepulchral Culture; %0561-918 best collections of Flem-
930; www.sepulkralmuseum.de; ish and Dutch baroque
Weinbergstrasse 25-27; adult/
concession €6/4; h10am-5pm

509

FRANK KRAHMER / GETTY IMAGES ©

ONE AND ONLY / SHUTTERSTOCK © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
RYAN VER
BERKMOES, AUTHOR

Did they give us nightmares or
fantasies? Or both? Who can forget
hearing the wild stories of the
Brothers Grimm as a child? Evil
stepmothers, dashing princes, fair
maidens, clever animals, mean old
wolves and more. With every passing
year, these stories become more
sanitised. But the real fairy tales are
far more compelling, as you’ll learn
on this trip.

Top: Beech trees in Kellerwald-Edersee National Park
Left: Brothers Grimm sculpture in Hanau
Right: The exterior of an old building in Marburg

GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Roadpaintings, featuring
works by Rembrandt,
BRUCE YUANYUE BI / GETTY IMAGES © Rubens, Jordaens, Lucas
Cranach the Elder, Dürer
and many others in the
Gemäldegalerie (painting
gallery).

5 4 p516
The Drive » Retrace your

6km drive on Wilhelmshöher
Allee into Kassel and take the
busy A7 right up to Göttingen.

7 Göttingen

With over 30,000
students, this historic
town nestled in a corner
of Lower Saxony near
the Hesse border offers a
good taste of university-
town life in Germany’s
north. Since 1734, the
Georg-August Universität
has sent more than 40
Nobel Prize winners into
the world. As well as all
those award-winning
doctors and scientists,
it also produced the
fairy-tale-writing Broth-
ers Grimm (as German
linguistic teachers).

Be sure to stroll
around the pleasant
Markt and nearby
Barfüsser-strasse to
admire the Fachwerk
(half-timbered) houses.

The city’s symbol, the
Gänseliesel (little goose
girl) statue on Markt is
hailed locally as the most
kissed woman in the
world – not a flatter-
ing moniker, you might
think, but enough to
make her iconic.

5 p517

511

GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road The Drive » Take the L561 minder of his grand plans how many were eaten by
is a tiny Hafenbecken big bad wolves in the forest
22km west to the B80, then (harbour basin) trafficked during the journey.
head northwest for another by white swans.
27km to Bad Karlshafen. You’ll The Drive » Just stay on
enjoy the curving panoramas Take a stroll around the
as you follow the Weser River, town centre, on the sinu- B83 for the 58km right to
which links several of the Fairy ous Weser River’s south Bodenwerder. You’ll enjoy Weser
Tale Road towns and cities. bank, with the Hafen- vistas for much of the journey –
becken and surrounding which might lure you to stop for
8 Bad Karlshafen square, Hafenplatz, at its a picnic.
western end.
Bad Karlshafen’s orderly 9 Bodenwerder
streets and whitewashed The interesting
baroque buildings were If Bodenwerder’s most
built in the 18th century Deutsches Huguenotten famous son were to
for the local earl Karl Museum (German Huguenot have described his little
by French Huguenot Museum; %05672-1410; www. hometown, he’d probably
refugees. The town was huguenot-museum-germany. have painted it as a huge,
planned with an impres- com; Hafenplatz 9a; adult/ thriving metropolis on
sive harbour and a canal concession €4/2; h10am-5pm the Weser River. But then
connecting the Weser Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun Baron Hieronymous von
with the Rhine to attract mid-Mar–Oct, 10am-noon Mon-Fri Münchhausen (1720–97)
trade, but the earl died Nov–mid-Mar) traces the his- was one of history’s
before his designs were tory of the French Hugeu- most shameless liars (his
completed. The only re- not refugees in Germany, whoppers were no mere
although it fails to mention

GRIMM FAIRY TALES

In the early 19th century the Brothers Grimm travelled extensively through central
Germany documenting folklore. Their collection of tales, Kinder- und Hausmärchen,
was first published in 1812 and quickly gained international recognition. It has 209
tales and includes such fairy-tale staples as:

»»Hansel and Gretel – A mother tries to ditch her son and daughter, a witch tries to
eat them and Gretal outsmarts her. Kids and father reunite and all are happy (the
evil mum has died).

»»Cinderella – The story that gave step-sisters a bad name. Still, when the prince
fits the shoe onto our heroine, all is good with the world, although in the Grimm
version, the step-sisters are blinded by vengeful doves.

»»Rapunzel – An adopted girl with very long hair, a prince that goes blind and some
evil older women are combined in this morality play that ends on a love note when
the prince stumbles upon an outcast Rapunzel and his sight is restored. In the first
edition of the Grimm’s book, Rapunzel bore children out of wedlock.

For entertaining synopses of all the Grimm fairy tales, see www.shmoop.com/
grimms-fairy-tales. One thing you’ll note is that the Grimm original versions are
much bloodier, more violent and earthier than the ultra-sanitised, Disneyfied
versions today.

Although best known for their fairy tales, it should be be noted that the Brothers
Grimm were serious academics who also wrote German Grammar and History of
the German Language, enduring works that populate reference shelves to this day.

512

fairy tales). He inspired THE FAIRY TALE ROAD GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road
the Terry Gilliam cult
film, The Adventures of The 600km Märchenstrasse (Fairy Tale Road; www.
Baron Munchausen. deutsche-maerchenstrasse.com/en) is one of Germany’s
most popular tourist routes, with over 60 stops
Bodenwerder’s along the way. It’s made up of cities, towns and
principal attraction, the hamlets in four states (Hesse, Lower Saxony, North
Münchhausen Museum Rhine-Westphalia and Bremen), which can often be
(%05533-409 147; Münch- reached by using a choice of roads rather than one
hausenplatz 1; adult/child single route. The towns are associated in one way or
€2.50/1.50; h10am-5pm another with the works of Wilhelm and Jacob Grimm.
Apr-Oct), tackles the Although most towns can be easily visited using
difficult task of convey- public transport, a car lets you fully explore the route.
ing the chaos and fun
associated with the ‘liar brass rats adorn the sights b Hanover
baron’ – a man who around town.
liked to regale dinner Known for its huge trade
guests with his Crimean Rodents aside, Hame- shows, Hanover has a
adventures, claiming he lin (Hameln in German) past: from 1714, monarchs
had, for example, tied his is a pleasant town with from the house of Hanover
horse to a church steeple half-timbered houses and also ruled Great Britain
during a snow drift and opportunities for cycling and the entire British Em-
ridden around a dining along the Weser River, pire for over a century.
table without breaking on the eastern bank of
one teacup. Among other which lies Hamelin’s Let your hair down
artefacts, it also has circular Altstadt. The at the spectacularly
paintings and displays of town’s heart is its Markt. baroque Herrenhäuser
Münchhausen books in Gärten (%0511-1683 4000;
many languages. Many of Hamelin’s www.hannover.de/Herren-
finest buildings were hausen; Herrenhäuser Strasse
The Drive » The unofficial constructed in the Weser 4; general admission free;
Renaissance style, which h9am-6pm, grotto to 5.30pm
spine for some of the Fairy has strong Italian influ- Apr-Oct, 9am-4.30pm, grotto
Tale Road route, the B83 again ences. Learn more at the to 4pm Nov-Mar; XHannover
takes you north, for 23km from town’s revamped Muse- Herrenhäuser Gärten), the
Bodenwerder to Hamelin. um Hamelin (%05151-202 grandiose baroque Royal
1215; www.museum-hameln. Gardens of Herrenhausen,
TRIP HIGHLIGHT de; Osterstrasse 8-9; adult/ which are considered one
concession €5/4; h11am- of the most important
a Hamelin 6pm Tue-Sun), which has historic garden landscapes
historical displays. in Europe. Inspired by
According to the Brothers the gardens at Versailles,
Grimm in The Pied Piper 5 4 p517 they’re a great place to
of Hamelin, in the 13th slow down and smell the
century the Pied Piper The Drive » Leave the roses for a couple of hours,
(Der Rattenfänger) was especially on a blue-sky
employed by Hamelin’s pastoral charms of Hamelin as day. With its fountains,
townsfolk to lure its ro- you drive 47km northwest on neat flowerbeds, trimmed
dents into the river. When the B217 to the modern vibe of hedges and shaped lawns,
they refused to pay him, busy Hanover. the 300-year-old Grosser
he picked up his flute and
led their kids away. Today,
the rats rule once again
– fluffy and cute stuffed
rats, wooden rats, and tiny

513

WESTEND61 / GETTY IMAGES ©Garten (Great Garden) is high Knight Roland statue
the centrepiece of the (1404). As elsewhere,
GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road experience. Roland stands for the
civic freedoms of a city,
The Drive » Germany’s especially the freedom to Bremerhaven has
trade independently. long been a conduit that
famed autobahns make quick gathered the ‘huddled
work of the 127km to Bremen: On the western side of masses’ from the verdant
take the A352 16km to the A7, the Rathaus you’ll find the but poor countryside
then shoot northwest on that city’s unmissable and fa- and poured them into
road and the A27. It will feel like mous symbol of the Grimm the world outside. Of the
you’ve arrived before you left, fairy tale: the Town Musi- millions who landed in
unless you get caught in a Stau cians of Bremen (1951) America, a large propor-
(traffic jam). by the sculptor Gerhard tion sailed from here,
Marcks. The story tells and an enticing exhibi-
TRIP HIGHLIGHT of a donkey, a dog, a cat tion at the Deutsches
and a rooster who know Auswandererhaus (German
c Bremen their time is up with their
cruel masters, so set out for Emigration Centre; %0471-902
Bremen is well known for Bremen and the good life.
its fairy-tale character, On the way they encounter
a unique expressionist a forest cottage filled with
quarter and (it must be robbers. They cleverly dis-
said, because Bremeners patch the crooks and, yes,
are avid football fans) live happily ever after. The
one of Germany’s most statue depicts the dog, cat
exciting football teams. and rooster, one on top of
the other, on the shoulders
With high, historic of the donkey. The donkey’s
buildings rising up from nose and front legs are in-
this very compact square, credibly shiny having been
Bremen’s Markt is one touched by many visitors
of the most remarkable for good luck.
in northern Germany.
The two towers of the 5 4 p517
1200-year-old Dom St The Drive » Another quick
Petri (St Petri Cathedral;
%0421-334 7142; www. shot up the autobahn, the
stpetridom.de; Sandstrasse A27, for 65km will bring you to
10-12; tower adult/conces- Bremerhaven and the North Sea.
sion €1/0.70, museum €3/2;
h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm d Bremerhaven
Sat, 2-5pm Sun) dominate
the northeastern edge, Anyone who has had the
beside the ornate and fairy-tale dream of run-
imposing Rathaus, which ning away to sea will love
was erected in 1410. Bremerhaven’s water-
The Weser Renaissance front – part machinery of
balcony in the middle, the trade, part glistening
crowned by three gables, glass buildings pointing
was added between 1595 to a more recent under-
and 1618. standing of its harbour
as a recreation spot.
In front of the Rathaus
is one of the hallmarks of
Bremen, the city’s 13m-

514

Bremen Knight Roland statue in the Markt

200; www.dah-bremerhaven. The museum stands ex- a steamer. You then get
de; Columbusstrasse 65; adult/ actly in the spot where 7.2 to visit passenger cabins
concession €12.60/10.60; million emigrants set sail from different periods
h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, 10am- between 1830 and 1974. (note the improving com-
5pm Nov-Feb), the city’s Your visit begins at the fort levels) before going
prime attraction, allows wharf where passengers through the immigration
you to share their history. gathered before boarding process at Ellis Island.

515

Eating & Sleeping

GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road Marburg 3 Kassel 5

5 Bückingsgarten German €€ 5 Lohmann German €€

(%06421-165 7771; www.bueckingsgarten- (%0561-701 6875; www.lohmann-kassel.de;

marburg.de; Landgraf-Philipp-Strasse 6; mains Königstor 8; mains €8-18; hnoon-11pm Sun-Fri,

€8-24; hnoon-10pm) Choose from two 5-11pm Sat) With roots that go back to 1888,

separate menus at this historical restaurant this popular, family-run Kneipe (pub) has an

with a spectacular hilltop position adjacent old-style birch-and-maple-shaded beer garden

to the castle. Dine inside for more upscale with an outdoor grill. Schnitzel (always pork)

ambience and fare, or enjoy a beer and casual features heavily on the menu.

meal in the beer garden: both have excellent 4 Pentahotel Kassel Boutique Hotel €

views. (%0561-933 9887; www.pentahotels.com;
Bertha-von-Suttner Strasse 15; d from €55;
5 Café Barfuss Cafe € paW) This modern, central hotel has
compact, stylish rooms with ambient lighting,
(%06421-253 49; www.cafebarfuss.de; arty design elements and free high-speed
wi-fi. There’s a bar and restaurant and free
Barfüsserstrasse 33; meals €4-15; h10am-1am; late checkout of 3pm on Sundays (subject to
availability).
v) A local institution, humble Barfuss is a

no-fuss, offbeat place with a steady stream of

sociable student diners who favour its diverse

menu of hearty, healthy plates, including great

breakfasts and a variety of vegetarian options.

4 Vila Vita Rosenpark Hotel €€ Wilhelmshöhe 6

(%06421-600 50; www.rosenpark.com; 5 Matterhorn Stübli Swiss €€

Anneliese Pohl Allee 7-17; s/d from €116/126;

paiWs) Marburg’s swankiest and (%0561-399 33; www.matterhornstuebli.de;

priciest digs are in a lovely spot by the river, a Wilhelmshöher Allee 326; mains €14-22; h5.30-

short stroll from the station. If you’re going to 11pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm & 5.30-11pm Sun; v) If

splurge, superior double rooms and suites offer you love cheese, fondue, schnitzel, or all three,

better value at almost twice the size of classic you’re well advised to hotfoot it to this quaint

single rooms. An expansive wellness centre, Swiss restaurant. If you like mushrooms as well,

day spa and two restaurants come with the try the Original Züri Geschnätzläts: veal escalopes

package. served with mushrooms and crispy rösti.

4 Welcome Hotel Marburg Hotel €€ 4 Kurpark Hotel Bad Boutique Hotel €€

(%06421-9180; www.welcome-hotel-marburg. Wilhelmshöhe
de; Pilgrimstein 29; s/d from €93/122; aiW)
Just below the Altstadt, this central hotel (%0561-318 90; www.kurparkhotel-kassel.de;
has 147 bright, spacious rooms with large
windows. Ask for a quieter room at the rear of Wilhelmshöher Allee 336; s/d from €105/137;
the building.
paWs) In an excellent location near the

castle and train station, this stylish hotel offers

well-appointed rooms and common areas, a

restaurant and terrace, and an indoor pool.

516

Göttingen 7 from €135/180, ste €345-445; pnaW)
Palatial Schlosshotel Münchhausen, 15km
5 Zum Szultenburger German €€ outside Hamelin, is a popular spot for weddings
and high-end functions. Stylish, contemporary
(%0551-431 33; Prinzenstrasse 7; mains €8-20; rooms in the main wing have historic
touches, while the suites have tasteful period
hnoon-2.30pm & 5.30-11pm Tue-Sat) This furnishings. Rooms in the adjacent Tithe barn
are entirely modern. Two restaurants, lavish spa
traditional German pub does things to the facilities and two golf courses set in 8 hectares
of parkland round off this luxurious option.
humble schnitzel that will make your mouth

water. It’s cosy and cheap, the varied menu is all

kinds of delicious, and the staff seem happy to be

here, which makes all the difference. Cash only. GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road

Bremen c

Hamelin a 5 Engel Weincafe Cafe €

5 Klütturm Modern European €€ (%0421-6964 2390; www.engelweincafe-

(%05151-962 620; www.kluetturm-restaurant. bremen.de; Ostertorsteinweg 31; dishes €4-13;

de; Klütturm 1; mains €12-22) If you fancy h8am-1am Mon-Fri, 10am-1am Sat & Sun;

a splurge, take a drive into the hills above Wv) Exuding the nostalgic vibe of a former

Hamelin to this classy hotel-restaurant serving pharmacy, this popular hang-out gets a good

well-executed modern-European dishes. The crowd no matter where the hands on the clock.

setting is wonderful, with an expanisve terrace Come for breakfast, a hot lunch special, crispy

and magnificent views. If you find yourself in the Flammkuchen (regional pizza), carpaccio or

mood, you can also stay the night. pasta, or just some cheese and a glass of wine.

5 Rattenfängerhaus German €€ 5 Ständige Vertretung German €€

(%05151-3888; www.rattenfaengerhaus. (%0421-320 995; www.staev.de;
Böttcherstrasse 3-5; mains €9-20; h11.30am-
de; Osterstrasse 28; mains €10-23; h11am- 11pm) An offshoot of Berlin’s best-known
restaurant for homesick Rhineland public
10pm) One of Hamelin’s finest ornamental servants, this large, bustling place thrives on its
political theme and solid cuisine, washed down
Weser Renaissance–style buildings, the with Rhineland wines and beer.

Rattenfängerhaus (from 1602) is also home

to a favourite, unashamedly tourist-centric

restaurant, which has been serving ‘rats’ tails’

flambéed at your table since 1966; don’t fret – 4 Hotel Bölts am Park Hotel €€

it’s all a pork-based ruse. Aside from the novelty (%0421-346 110; www.hotel-boelts.de;

dishes, standard schnitzels, herrings, vegie Slevogtstrasse 23; s/d €65/85; pW) This

dishes, and ‘rat killer’ herb liquor are also offered. cosy family-run hotel in a leafy neighbourhood

4 Komfort-Hotel Garni has real character, from the wonderfully old-

Christinenhof Boutique Hotel €€ fashioned breakfast hall to its well-proportioned

(%05151-950 80; www.christinenhof-hameln. doubles.

de; Alte Marktstrasse 18; s/d incl breakfast 4 Park Hotel Bremen Hotel €€€

€90/115; pWs) Historic outside, modern in, (%0421-340 80; www.park-hotel-bremen.de;

this quaint hotel has some neat touches, such Im Bürgerpark; s/d from €129/149, ste from

as a tiny swimming pool in the vaulted cellar, a €635; pniWs) Although it’s exterior is

sauna, compact but pleasant and uncluttered certainly dated, this domed lakeside mansion,

rooms, and a generous buffet breakfast. surrounded by parkland, impresses through its

4 Schlosshotel sheer extravagance and could be considered

Münchhausen Hotel €€€ Bremen’s only true five-star, grand hotel. It

(%05154-706 00; www.schlosshotel- offers access to excellent spa, fitness and

muenchhausen.com; Schwöbber 9, Aerzen bei beauty facilities, a heated outdoor pool and

Hameln; s/d tithe barn from €110/140, castle views over the lake in a ‘spa resort’ ambience.

517

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

NEED TO Climate
KNOW
Warm to hot summers, mild winters
CURRENCY Warm to hot summers, cold winters
Mild summers, cold winters
Euro (€) Cold climate

LANGUAGE # HGOamMbauyr–gSep

German #

VISAS GOSeBMpea&ryli,OnJcutn,

Generally not required for # FGrOanMkafyu–rtSep
stays of up to 90 days;
some nationalities need a GOFrAeipbru–rOgct GOSMeApup&nri,cOMhcaty,
Schengen visa.
# #
FUEL
When to Go
Petrol stations are common High Season (Jul & Aug)
on main roads and highways, »»Busy roads and long lines at key sights.
and in larger towns. »»Vacancies at a premium and higher prices in seaside and
Unleaded costs around
€1.50 per litre and diesel is mountain resorts.
€1.25.
»»Festivals celebrate everything from music to wine, and sailing
RENTAL CARS
to samba.
Auto Europe (www.
autoeurope.com) Shoulder Season (Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct)
»»Smaller crowds and lower prices, except on public holidays.
Avis (www.avis.com) »»Blooming flowers in spring; radiant foliage in autumn.
Europcar (www.europcar. »»Sunny, temperate weather ideal for outdoor pursuits.
com) Low Season (Nov–Mar)
»»No queues, but shorter hours at key sights; some may close
Hertz (www.hertz.com)
for the season.
IMPORTANT NUMBERS
»»Theatre, concert and opera season in full swing.
Europe-wide emergency »»Ski resorts busiest in January and February.
covering police, fire and
ambulance (%112)

518

Daily Costs The following prices indicate Mobile Phones (Cell
the cost of a two-course set Phones)
Budget: Less than €100 menu.
»»Hostel, camping or private Most European and Australianp
€ less than €15 hones function; turn off roaming
room: €15–30 €€ €15–30 to avoid data charges. Buy a
€€€ more than €30 local SIM for cheaper rates.
»»Up to €8 per meal or self-cater
»»Take advantage of Happy Sleeping Internet Access

Hours and free or low-cost Hotels From budget to luxury; Wi-fi (usually free) is available to
museums and entertainment breakfast included unless guests in most hotels, B&Bs and
indicated. hostels. Also offered by many
Midrange: €100–200 Pensiones Rates always cafes, bars, train stations and
»»Private apartment or double include breakfast. other public spaces.
Hostels In cities and large
room: €60–100 towns; private or HI-affiliated. Money
Price symbols indicate the cost
»»Three-course dinner at nice of a double room with private ATMs widely available in cities
bathroom in high season: and towns, rarely in villages.
restaurant: €30–40 Cash is king almost everywhere;
€ less than €80 credit cards are not widely
»»Couple of beers in a pub or €€ €80–160 accepted.
€€€ more than €160
beer garden: €8 Tipping

Top End: More than Restaurant and bar prices
€200 include a service charge, but
»»Fancy loft apartment or double locals still tip. Taxis expect 10%.

in top-end hotel: from €150 Useful Websites

»»Sit-down lunch or dinner at Lonely Planet
(lonelyplanet.com) Travel tips,
top-rated restaurant: €100 accommodation, traveller
forums and more.
»»Concert or opera tickets:
Germany: The Travel
€50–150 Destination (www.germany.
travel) German tourist board.
Eating Arriving in Germany ADAC (www.adac.de) Driving
information for Germany and
Cafes Coffee, drinks, snacks. Frankfurt Airport neighbouring countries.
Bistros Light meals to full-
blown dinners. S-Bahn Commuter rail
lines S8 and S9 from
Restaurants Simple eateries Flughafen Regionalbahnhof
to Michelin-starred temples. to Frankfurtcentre, 4.30am to
12.30am (€4.55, 15 minutes).
Vegetarian Few wholly
vegetarian places, limited Taxis €25 to €35; 20 minutes
choices on most menus. to centre.

519

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Language

German is easy for English speakers to pronounce because almost all of its sounds are also
found in English. If you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English, you’ll
have no problems being understood. Note that kh is like the ‘ch’ in ‘Bach’ or the Scottish ‘loch’
(pronounced at the back of the throat), r is also pronounced at the back of the throat (almost
like a g, but with some friction), zh is pronounced as the ‘s’ in ‘measure’, and ü as the ‘ee’ in
‘see’ but with rounded lips.The stressed syllables are indicated with italics.

GERMAN BASICS at the traffic bei der Ampel bai dair am·pel
lights

Hello. Guten Tag. goo·ten tahk left links lingks

Goodbye. Auf owf right rechts rekhts
Wiedersehen. vee·der·zay·en

Yes./No. Ja./Nein. yah/nain ACCOMMODATION

Please. Bitte. bi·te Do you have Haben Sie hah·ben zee
a ... room? ein ...? ain ...
Thank you. Danke. dang·ke
You’re Bitte. bi·te double Doppelzimmer do·pel·tsi·mer
welcome.
single Einzelzimmer ain·tsel·tsi·mer
Excuse me. Entschuldigung. ent·shul·di·gung
How much Wie viel kostet vee feel kos·tet
Sorry. Entschuldigung. ent·shul·di·gung is it per ...? es pro ...? es praw ...

Do you speak English? night Nacht nakht
Sprechen Sie shpre·khen zee
Englisch? (pol) eng·lish person Person per·zawn

Sprichst shprikhst Is breakfast included?
du Englisch? (inf) doo eng·lish Ist das Frühstück ist das frü·shtük
inklusive? in·kloo·zee·ve
I don’t understand.
Ich verstehe nicht. ikh fer·shtay·e nikht
ON THE ROAD
DIRECTIONS
I’d like to Ich möchte ikh merkh·te
Where’s …? hire a ... ein ... mieten. ain ... mee·ten
Wo ist …?
vaw ist … 4WD Allrad- al·raht·
fahrzeug fahr·tsoyk
How far is it?
Wie weit ist es? vee vait ist es car Auto ow·to

Can you show me (on the map)? motorbike Motorrad maw·tor·raht
Können Sie es mir ker·nen zee es meer
(auf der Karte) zeigen? (owf dair kar·te) tsai·gen
Want More?
How can I get there?
Wie kann ich da vee kan ikh dah For in-depth language information
hinkommen? hin·ko·men and handy phrases, check out Lonely
Planet’s German Phrasebook. You’ll
Turn ... Biegen Sie ... ab. bee·gen zee ... ab find it at shop.lonelyplanet.com.

at the corner an der Ecke an dair e·ke

520

windscreen petrol
Windschutzscheibe f Benzin m
vint·shuts·shai·be ben·tseen

battery
Batterie f
ba·te·ree
engine
Motor m
maw·tor

headlight tyre
Scheinwerfer m Reifen m
shain·ver·fer
rai·fen

How much Wie viel kostet vee feel kos·tet My car/motorbike has broken down (at ...).
is it per ...? es pro ...? es praw ... Ich habe (in ...) eine ikh hah·be (in ...) ai·ne
Panne mit meinem pa·ne mit mai·nem
day Tag tahk Auto/Motorrad. ow·to/maw·tor·raht

week Woche vo·khe I’ve run out of petrol.

Does this road go to ...? Ich habe kein ikh hah·be kain
Führt diese Straße fürt dee·ze shtrah·se
nach ...? nahkh ... Benzin mehr. ben·tseen mair

(How long) Can I park here? I have a flat tyre. ikh hah·be ai·ne
(Wie lange) Kann ich (vee lang·e) kan ikh Ich habe eine rai·fen·pa·ne
hier parken? heer par·ken Reifenpanne.

Where’s a petrol station? EMERGENCIES
Wo ist eine Tankstelle? vaw ist ai·ne tangk·shte·le
Help!
I need a mechanic. ikh brow·khe ai·nen Hilfe! hil·fe
Ich brauche einen I’m lost. ikh hah·be mikh fer·irt
Mechaniker. me·khah·ni·ker Ich habe mich verirrt. roo·fen zee dee po·li·tsai
Call the police!
Rufen Sie die Polizei!

Signs

Einfahrt Entrance

Ausfahrt Exit

Einfahrt No entry
Verboten

Einbahnstraße One way

Parkverbot No Parking

Mautstelle Toll

521

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

STRETCH Kölner Dom
YOUR LEGS
COLOGNE Cologne’s geographical and spiritual
heart – and its single-biggest tourist
Start/Finish: Kölner Dom draw – is the magnificent Kölner Dom
Distance: 2km (Cologne Cathedral; %0211-1794 0200; www.
Duration: Three hours koelner-dom.de; tower adult/concession €4/2;
h6am-9pm May-Oct, to 7.30pm Nov-Apr, tower
Cologne’s history is everywhere, 9am-6pm May-Sep, to 5pm Mar-Apr & Oct, to 4pm
as you’ll see on this walk, which Nov-Feb), with its soaring twin spires, art
circles through the heart of the and treasures. Climb the 533 steps up
bustling city. You can view Roman its south tower to the base of the steeple
or medieval ruins, and you’ll always that dwarfed all European buildings until
be near somewhere to pause for Eiffel built a certain tower in Paris. The
refreshments. underground Domforum visitor centre is
a good source of info and tickets.

The Walk » There are large parking facilities

around the Dom and the neighbouring
Hauptbahnhof (just follow the signs). Then, after
Kölner Dom, walk south across the Roncalliplatz
to Am Hof, turn east then go south again on
Bechergasse to the large, open Rathausplatz.

Altes Rathaus

Dating to the 15th century and much
restored, the old city hall (Rathausplatz;
h8am-4pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 6pm Tue) has
fine bells that ring daily at noon and
5pm. The Gothic tower is festooned with
statues of old city notables.

The Walk » Walk to the west side of the Rathaus.

Archäologische Zone

Cologne used the construction of the U-
Bahn line to also build this grand Future
Jüdisches Museum (Archaeological Zone/
Jewish Museum; %0221-2213 3422; Kleine Buden-
gasse 2; adult/concession €3.50/3; h10am-5pm
Tue-Sun) under the Rathausplatz. At the
deepest level is the Praetorium, with
relics of a Roman governor’s palace. One
level up are relics from the Middle Ages
Jewish community.

The Walk » Cross the Marsplatz on the south

side of the square to the museum.

Take this walk on Trips Wallraf-Richartz-Museum

y A famous collection of European paint-
ings from the 13th to the 19th centuries,
522 the Wallraf-Richartz-Museum (%0221-2212
1119; www.wallraf.museum; Obenmarspforten;

adult/concession €8/4.50; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed
& Fri-Sun, to 9pm Thu) occupies a postmodern

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Burgmauer
Stadtmuseum §# Zeughaus FettenUhnteenrnen HöffKnaerrd-iPnlaalt-z w
Burgmauer # Steinweg
Martinstr
Elisenstr NS Dokumentationszentrum
#
Schwalbengasse ppel lho fplatz w
Drus u sgasse An der
A Rechtschule

Appelhofplatz #§ gasse Elstergasse Hohe Str
Breite Str

Morser Untere Goldschmied ALTSTADT

Breite Str Minoritenstr BudGeronsgsaesse Mühlengasse
Glockengasse Kolumba
Hämergasse Kolumbastr #Ludwigstr Marspfortgasse Altes Alter Markt
000000000000000000000000000000000O00000000000ff000000000e00n00000000000ba00000000000ch00000000000platzKrebsgasse
Brückenstr Rathaus
Future #
Tunisstr #§ Lintgasse
Jüdisches #
Museum
Rathausplatz

Herzogstr Obenmarspforten #

Brüderstr Gr Sandkaul Wallraf-Richartz-Museum
Quatermarkt
e# 0 200 m In der Höhle
0 0.1 miles

Schildergasse w

cube designed by OM Ungers. Works are w Centre (%0221-2212 6332; www.museenkoeln.
presented chronologically, with the oldest de; Appellhofplatz 23-25; adult/concession
on the 1st floor where stand-outs include €4.50/2; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat &
examples from the Cologne School, known Sun). In the basement of this otherwise
for its distinctive use of colour. mundane-looking building was the local
Gestapo prison where scores of people
The Walk » Go west past the shops on were interrogated, tortured and killed.

Obenmarspforten for four streets, then turn north The Walk » It’s just a short jaunt north again
on Kolumbastrasse.
along low-key Dumont-Strasse.
Kolumba
Kölnisches Stadtmuseum
Art, history, architecture and spirituality
form a harmonious tapestry in this spec- The Kölnisches Stadtmuseum (Cologne City
tacular collection of religious treasures Museum; %0221-2212 2398; www.museenkoeln.
of the Archdiocese of Cologne. Called de; Zeughausstrasse 1-3; adult/concession €5/3;
Kolumba (%0221-933 1930; www.kolumba.de; h10am-8pm Tue, to 5pm Wed-Sun), in the for-
Kolumbastrasse 4; adult/child €5/free; hnoon- mer medieval armoury, explores all facets
5pm Wed-Mon), the building encases the of Cologne history. There are exhibits on
ruins of the late-Gothic church of St Carnival, Kölsch (the local beer), eau de
Kolumba and layers of foundations going cologne and other things that make the
back to Roman times. Don’t miss the city unique. A model recreates the city of
12th-century carved ivory crucifix. 1571; it’s huge yet minutely detailed.

The Walk » Walk west on commercial Breite The Walk » Return to the Dom along

Strasse, then turn north on Dumont-Strasse. Komödienstrasse, with the cathedral towers
looming ever closer. Stop off for a much-deserved
NS Dokumentationszentrum refreshment at Café Reichard, facing the Dom.

Cologne’s Third Reich history is poignant- 523
ly documented in the NS Documentation

524

Switzerland

A PLACE OF HEART-STOPPING
NATURAL BEAUTY AND HEAD-SPINNING
EFFICIENCY, Switzerland lies in the centre of
Europe yet exhibits a unique blend of cultures.
Dazzling outdoor scenery, such as the ever-
admired Alps, pristine lakes, lush meadows
and chocolate-box chalets, combines with
local traditions, cosmopolitan cities and
smooth infrastructure.

In short, Switzerland makes it easy for you
to dive deep into its heart: distances are
manageable and variety is within easy reach.
You can be perusing a farmers market for
picnic provisions in the morning, then feasting
on them on a mountaintop come lunchtime.
At nightfall, try gazing at stars in the night
sky from cosy digs or revelling in the cultural
offerings of one of Switzerland’s urbane cities.

Lucerne View of the Old Town

BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Parc Naturel \# Mullheim GERMANY
Régional des Lörrach
Ballons des Vosges Mulhouse Todtmoos Schaffhausen
#\ \#
/·E60 ·/A35 \#

\#

Waldshut
#\

Switzerland Montbeliard Feldbach #^ ·/A3 Baden
#\ \# \#
Basel #\
Liestal
Aarau #]
/·18
·/#\ Delémont Zürich
\# A1

\#Olten
·/ ·/ ·/ /·E23
Maiche Tramelan 16 \# Moutier A4
#\ \# Lang\#enthal #\ Menziken

FRANCE E35 \#

Orn\#ans La Chaux-de-Fonds \# Biel-Bienne FGLucerne 38 Zug

#\ Ligerz #\ Burgdorf
#\

/·Morteau
Bielersee E27 #\ Langnau im #] Brunnen
#\ Neuchâtel Stans #\
]# #\ E35

Bern 37 Altdorf #\
Fôret de NeLuacchdâetel Murtensee 38 /·Emmental
la Joux \# Sarnen
Murten \#
#\ /· FG\# 10
·/ FG#\ Poligny
Pontarlier 5

N]#yGo1ne#\n3eM8voaV\#LragAall1Teeluoshs#\YrsG-\#ovbBaLeneLennaaroe9keidnsnnve#]oe-saG#\n\#eLt\#savauV#\xevA#\eB1y\#2uMlAlAoe9i\#ng9tl1#\er1e\#GC#\urCh\#xuFâhyrtiaèbeSrroameiouus#\enr-dgyK1'Sa8Œ9inedxrSre#\eprsietez\#gT#\#\huSn(cV2hBRA9i3ise9l7pt7t0#\Bht\#mmorInir)eentnre\##\azBrl\#l\#Gpraigrkien#\ndFDeieol1VEws9manc\#arghol#\AzdeOdonlobbd1seee1\#srrrogwmlaaCaldtetv#\i\#o
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·/Champagnole
/· /· ·/ ·/Les Rousses
/·Parc Naturel \#
/·Régional du

GFHaut-Jura
·/ ·//· ·/GFGex \#

Bonneville #\ Martigny #\ Falmenta \#

#\ ·/A410 \# /·E27 #\ Täsch Vogogna NaPzaiorcnoale
Zermatt \# \#
Hauteville #\ Annecy ·/E25
Lompnes Umilly d'ALnancecy Macu#\gnaga Val Grande
\# #^
#\
Chamonix Verbania

!

| The Swiss Alps 7 Days } Geneva to Zürich 7 Days
The greatest of the great outdoors: Mountains, pastures, lakes and
perfect peaks, gorgeous glaciers, small-town charm, book-ended by
verdant valleys. (p529) Switzerland’s biggest cities. (p541)

526

/·33 /·31 Birnau e# 0 50 km
0 25 miles
#\ DON'T
Stein am MISS

\# Rhein #\Konstanz The Matterhorn
#\
\# Symbol of Switzerland,
Lindau this magical mountain
·/A7KrReoumzlainngsehnorn #\ Lake demands to be
#\ photographed. See it for
Constance #^ Bregenz
Winterthur Wil |yourself on Trip

\# Züri-West

/·#\ A1 \#St Gallen \# Switzerland dispenses
with its staid reputation
Dubendorf Dornbirn in this hip Zürich
neighbourhood full of
/·#\ 16 great bars, clubs, cafes
Appenz#\ell and restaurants. Explore
Rapperswil- 0¸B171
Jona /·13 \# Feldkirch it on Trip }
Lande\#\#ck
·/\# AUSTRIA

A3 Vaduz #\

SWITZERLAND LIECHSTENSTEIN Pfunds
\#
Schwanden #\ Bad Ragaz \##\ Maienfeld Partenen
Landquart #\ 28 \#
/· ·/#\
17 Flims-Laax #\ Chur Klosters #\ Samnaun
#\ \# Guarda
#\
Ilanz #\
\# Davos

\#
GF ·/ ·/ ·/ ·/\# 19 Arosa
Zernez
\# #\ 37 #\ Vals A13 Müstair
#\
Disentis/ \# #\
Mustér 28
Zillis Zuoz #\ 27

Rodi-Fiesso Parco Nazionale
\#Livigno dello Stelvio
\#
#\#\St Moritz #\ Bormio
\# Lavorgo Malog#\gia Silvaplana
\# Biasca
#\ \# Sondalo
Chiavenna

Locarno \# Bianzone #\ #\ Edolo
#\ 13/· ¸0#\ SS38 Parco
Bellinzona #\ \# Parco Regionale dell'Adamello
Lago di degli Orobie ITALY
Maggiore Colico Morbegno Valtellinesi
\# \# Breno
\# Lugano \# Vezio Parco Regionale
Bergamasche Schilpario
Luino \#

\# Lenna
0¸ 0¸^# SS36
Lovere SS42
\#
Varese \# Lecco Bagolino\#
#\

BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Interlaken Lake Brienz

527

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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5
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b539
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ANGELO CAVALLI / GETTY IMAGES ©

37The Swiss Alps

From Arosa to Zermatt, this zigzagging trip is the A to Z of
Switzerland’s astounding Alpine scenery, with majestic peaks,
formidable panoramas, cable-car rides and local charm.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 77 km 7 DAYS
Vals 612 KM / 382 MILES
612 km A modern architectural
Zermatt jewel embellishes this GREAT FOR…
Switzerland's Alpine remote spa town
heart beats JG
strongest here
BEST TIME TO GO
Grindelwald # lL# Arosa
# Andermatt This trip can be done
#2 year-round, although
R Schilthorn (2970m) certain mountain
passes may be closed
##11 to vehicular traffic.

mK##12 I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
Aletsch Glacier
A mesmerising marvel, The magical
viewed from on-high Matterhorn is the
538 km ultimate mountain
photo op.
Zermatt View of the Matterhorn
K BEST FOR
OUTDOORS

Whatever the season,
the Alps offer activities
galore.

529

37 The Swiss Alps

A natural barrier, the Alps are both a blessing and a burden when it comes
to tripping around Switzerland. The soul-stirring views are stupendous, but
you have to get over, around them or go through them to reach the next one.
Starting in Graubünden’s Arosa and finishing in Valais’ Zermatt, this trip
visits five cantons via hairpin bends, valley highways, tunnels, passes and
cable cars to bring you the best.

e# 0 30 km Lake Lucerne \# Brunnen \# Schwanden
0 15 miles
Stans#\ ·/E35
#\
/·10 Langnau im
Emmental Sarnen R
#\ Stanserhorn
GF GF /·38 38 Sarnersee \# Altdorf
(1898m)
/·A6 /· #4 374 /·E35
#\5 ·/19
Thun Brienz
Giessbachfälle \# Engelberg
#\
11
# ·/Thunersee Brienzersee 6 ##\3 Disentis/
/·Spiez #\ A8 #\
Interlaken Mustér
#\ Meiringen ##\2
GF38 Andermatt SWITZERLAND
##\7 Grindelwald Vals
# # #R9 8\##\ Lauterbrunnen #\4

Schilthorn #\ Mürren R #\
Finsteraarhorn
(4274m) \# Airolo
# #1#\0 Kandersteg 11 Rodi-Fiesso#\ #\ Faido
Oberwald \# Lavorgo

Aletsch #\ Bettmeralp /·A2

Leukerbad Glacier \# Fiesch #\ Biasca
#\ #\ Sonogno
·/Betten #\ 19 Bignasco
\#
·/ Brig \#
Sierre ITALY \# Cevio
\# A9 \#
Visp \#
Vogorno
Cimalmotto

Varzo #\

#\ Verdasio Bellinzona #\

¸0SS337 #\ #\

Locarno #\

¸0\# Domodossola ·/A9
\# 0¸SS33 Falmenta \# SS34

Täsch #\ Saas-Fee Porlezza
\#
Km#1#\2 Zermatt Parco Nazionale \# Lugano #\ #\
Vogogna #\ Val Grande \# Menaggio
\# Macugnaga Maccagno

RR GF2 MLaakgegiore

^#

#\

1 Arosa by postal buses. Once full of sleepy hamlets and SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps
here, you may want to thundering waterfalls.
Framed by the peaks revel in the beauty of the Vals stretches 2km along
of Weisshorn, Hörnli Mario Botta–designed its glittering stream. The
and moraine-streaked Tschuggen Bergoase Spa secret of this chocolate-
Schiesshorn, Arosa is a (http://en.tschuggen.ch/spa; box village and its sooth-
great Alpine all-rounder: Tschuggen Grand Hotel; non- ing waters is out since
perfect for downhill and guest morning/evening pass Basel-born architect Peter
cross-country skiing in Sfr65, massage from Sfr80; Zumthor worked architec-
winter, hiking and down- h7am-9pm), an architec- tural magic to transform
hill biking in summer, tural statement built at Therme Vals (%081 926 89
and heaps of activities the foot of the mountains. 61; www.therme-vals.ch; adult/
for families year-round. The recurring leaf-shaped child Sfr80/52, with Vals guest
Although only 30km motifs throughout the card Sfr45/30; h11am-8pm)
southeast of Chur (Swit- structures look par- into a temple of cutting-
zerland’s oldest city), ticularly striking when edge cool.
getting here involves illuminated at night.
a series of 365 hairpin Using 60,000 slabs of
bends so challenging that 5 p539 local quartzite, Zumthor
Arosa cannot be reached created one of the
The Drive » The trip from country’s most enchant-
#\ ing thermal spas. Aside
Arosa to Vals takes 79km and from heated indoor and
\# Landquart 1¾ hours. First, head back outdoor pools, this grey-
towards Chur, then take Rte 19 stone labyrinth hides all
·/E43 to Ilanz, from where you drive sorts of watery nooks and
a delightful road that passes crannies, cleverly lit and
Flims- /·\# Chur through Uors and St Martin full of cavernous atmos-
Laax 28 before arriving at Vals (1252m). phere. You can drift away
\# About 2km short of the village, in the bath-warm Feuer-
\# Ilanz you emerge into Alpine pastures, bad (42°C) and perfumed
liberally scattered with chalets Blütenbad, sweat it out
Ll·/3 and shepherds’ huts. in the steam room and
#Arosa \#1 cool down in the teeth-
2 Vals chattering Eisbad.
·/A13
Shadowing the course 4 p539
\# Zillis of the babbling Glogn
(Glenner) stream south, The Drive » Take the road
the luxuriantly green
Valsertal (Vals Valley) is back to Ilanz, then continue on

Silvaplana

\#

Maloggia LINK
\# YOUR
TRIP
Chiavenna
#\

ITALY #\ San } Geneva to Zürich 2 The Graceful
Martino Arosa is a two-hour Italian Lakes
¸0SS36 drive southeast (147km) on
the A3 from Zürich, the end A scenic two-hour drive
/·S38 point of this bucolic ramble (143km) across the Simplon
between Switzerland’s Pass into Italy gets you to
\# Gravedona \# biggest cities. Stresa in the glorious Lake
Maggiore region.
Morbegno

Lake Parco 531
Como Regionale
Bergamasche
\# #\ Vezio
#\ Pasturo #\ Lenna
GF2

#\

SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps Rte 19 until you reach Disentis/ LOCAL KNOWLEDGE:
Mustér (50km, 55 minutes). ZUMDORF

3 Disentis Abbey If the grand scale of this trip seems overwhelming,
the antidote surely lies in a quick detour to
Disentis/Mustér’s Switzerland’s smallest village, Zumdorf (Uri canton),
Benedictine monastery, little more than a cluster of small buildings on the
Kloster Disentis (www. Furkastrasse and a population that can be counted
kloster-disentis.ch; Via Claustra on one hand. Despite its diminutive size, it has a
1, Disentis/Mustér; museum place to eat, Restaurant Zum Dörfli (%041 887
adult/child Sfr7/3; hmuseum 01 32; www.zumdoerfli.ch; Furkastrasse; mains Sfr26-40),
2-5pm Tue, Thu & Sat Jun- specialising in Swiss dishes (especially rösti) and
Oct), which rises like a venison (when in season). Find it 6km southwest of
vision above the town, Andermatt’s centre.
has a lavishly stuccoed
baroque church attached. TRIP HIGHLIGHT A walk around and
A monastery has stood along Gotthardstrasse re-
here since the 8th century, 4 Andermatt veals textbook dark-wood
but the present immense central Swiss architecture,
complex dates from the Blessed with austere often weighed down with
18th century. Left of the mountain appeal, either geraniums or snow.
church entrance is a door Andermatt (Uri canton)
to the Klostermuseum, contrasts low-key village Skiers in the know flock
crammed with memora- charm (despite a recent to 2963m Gemsstock (www.
bilia. Head left upstairs five-star development) skiarena.ch; cable car one-way/
to the Marienkirche, a with big wilderness. Once return Sfr36/50) mountain,
chapel with Romanesque an important staging- reached by the Gemsstock-
origins filled with ex-voto post on the north–south bahn cable car (undergoing
images from people in St Gotthard route, it’s a major overhaul at the
need of (or giving thanks now bypassed by the time of research), for the
for) a miraculous inter- tunnel, but remains a snow-sure winter slopes.
vention from the Virgin major crossroads near
Mary. If you’re peckish, four major Alpine passes 4 p539
a handy (and very good- (Susten, Oberalp, St Got- The Drive » From Andermatt
value) on-site cafe/ thard and Furka), making
takeaway has soups, sal- it a terrific base for hiking to Engelberg, take Rte 2 to
ads and specialities. and cycling. The tourist Göschenen, then get on the A2/
office distributes free E35 and follow the signs for
The Drive » Disentis is booklets outlining these Lucerne. The road will skirt the
opportunities. bottom of Lake Uri for some
an exhilarating (40 minutes, lovely water views. Continue on
32km) drive along Rte 19 and One popular hike leads this road until you take exit 33
the twisting Oberalp Pass from the Oberalp Pass to (Stans-Süd), then follow Rte 374
(2044m), which connects sparkly Lai da Tuma, the all the way to Engelberg (one
Graubünden and Uri cantons. source of the Rhine; the hour, 77km in total).
In winter, the Oberalp Pass is 11km round trip takes
closed to cars, but a car train three to four hours, with 5 Engelberg
connects Sedrun on Rte 19 500m elevation gain.
and Andermatt (three services Wonderful Engelberg (lit-
daily in winter, two in spring). erally ‘Angel Mountain’),
Reservations are essential. Call backed by the glacial
%027 927 77 40 or visit www.
matterhorngotthardbahn.ch.

532

bulk of Mt Titlis (www.titlis. fins ahead, before you Brunni cable car (www. SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps
ch) – central Switzerland’s step out onto Titlis sta- brunni.ch; cable car one-way/
tallest mountain – and tion’s terrace (3020m), return Sfr18/30, incl chairlift
frosted peaks, which with a panorama that one-way/return Sfr26/42) goes
feature in many a Bol- stretches to Eiger, Mönch up to Ristis at 1600m,
lywood production, is and Jungfrau in the where a chairlift takes
divine. After visiting the Bernese Oberland. For you to the Swiss Alpine
12th-century Benedictine even more thrilling views, Club’s refurbished Brunni
step onto the adjacent Hütte. From here you can
Engelberg Monastery Cliff Walk (www.titlis.ch/en/ watch a magnificent sun-
(Kloster Engelberg; %041 639 glacier/cliff-walk; h9.15am- set before spending the
61 19; www.kloster-engelberg. night, should you wish.
ch; church admission free, tours 4.45pm) – opened in 2012,
adult/child Sfr8/free; h1hr this 100m-long, 1m-wide, 4 p539
tour 10am & 4pm Wed-Sat), get cable-supported swinging
closer to the heavens via walkway is Europe’s high- The Drive » As Engelberg
the world’s first revolv- est suspension bridge.
ing cable car (www.titlis. is a ‘dead end’ retrace your
ch/en/tickets/cable-car-ride; There are some 360km route back to the A2, heading
adult/child return Sfr89/44.50; of marked hiking trails west, before turning onto the
h8.30am-5pm). The cable in and around Engelberg. A8 (direction Interlaken), and
car pirouettes over the For gentle ambles and continuing alongside bright-blue
dazzling Titlis Glacier, gorgeous scenery, head Brienzersee to Giessbachfälle
peaks rising like shark for Brunni on the oppo- (one hour and 10 minutes, 71km).
site side of the valley. The

AROUND GRINDELWALD: FIRST

From Grindelwald, a cable car zooms up to First, the trailhead for 100km of paths,
half of which stay open in winter. From here, you can trudge up to Faulhorn (2681m;
2½ hours), even in winter, via the cobalt Bachalpsee (Lake Bachalp). As you march
along the ridge, the unfolding views of the Jungfrau massif are entrancing. Stop for
lunch and 360-degree views at Faulhorn. From here, you might like to continue on to
Schynige Platte (another three hours) and return by train.

Other great walks head to Schwarzhorn (three hours), Grosse Scheidegg (1½
hours), Unterer Gletscher (1½ hours) and Grindelwald itself (2½ hours).

First has 60km of well-groomed pistes, which are mostly wide, meandering
reds suited to intermediates. The south-facing slopes make for interesting skiing
through meadows and forests. Freestylers should check out the kickers and rails at
Bärgelegg or have a go on the superpipe at Schreckfeld station.

Faulhorn happens to be the starting point for Europe’s longest toboggan run,
accessible only on foot. Bring a sled to bump and glide 15km over icy pastures and
through glittering woodlands all the way back down to Grindelwald via Bussalp.
Nicknamed ‘Big Pintenfritz’, the track lasts around 1½ hours, depending on how fast
you slide.

Year-round, you can get your pulse racing on the First Flyer, a staggeringly fast
zip-line from First to Schreckfeld. The mountains are but a blur as, secure in your
harness, you pick up speeds of around 84km/h.

Opened in 2015, the First Cliff Walk is a summit trail with a 40m-long suspen-
sion bridge, climbing stairs and an observation deck, with suitably impressive views
of the local landscape and the jaw-dropping mountains.

533

DENNIS STRATMANN / GETTY IMAGES ©

CHRISTIAN KOBER / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
SALLY O’BRIEN,
AUTHOR

Even though I now call Switzerland
home, the Alpine scenery still has
an other-worldly effect on me. The
abundance of snow-capped peaks,
mountains with fairy-tale names that
‘pop up’ at numerous vantage points,
time-defying glaciers, gravity-
defying railways. And then there’s
the moment you catch sight of the
Matterhorn…

Top: Mountain biking around Andermatt
Left: Climbers on the Matterhorn
Right: Aletsch Glacier

SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps6 Giessbachfälle

HUBER PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES © Illuminating the fir for-
ests like a spotlight in the
dark, the misty Giess-
bachfälle (Giessbach
Falls) plummet 500m
over 14 rocky ridges.
Europe’s oldest funicular,
dating to 1879, creaks
up from the boat station
(one-way/return Sfr5/10),
but it’s only a 15-minute
walk up to the most strik-
ing section of the falls.

The Drive » Get back onto

the A8 and follow the road along
the Brienzersee until exit 25
(Wilderswil/Grindelwald), then
continue as the road winds its
way through rural countryside
up to Grindelwald (39km, 45
minutes).

7 Grindelwald

Grindelwald’s sublime
natural assets are film-
set stuff: the chiselled
features of the north
face of Eiger, the glinting
tongues of Oberer and
Unterer Glaciers and
the crown-like peak of
Wetterhorn. Skiers and
hikers cottoned onto its
charms in the late 19th
century, which makes
it one of Switzerland’s
oldest resorts. And it has
lost none of its appeal,
with geranium-studded
Alpine chalets and ver-
dant pastures aplenty.

Turbulent waters carve
a path through the crag-
gy glacier gorge known
as Gletscherschlucht
(Glacier Gorge; adult/child
Sfr7/3.50; h10am-5pm

535

SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps May-Oct, to 6pm Jul & Aug), (Staubbach Falls; h8am-8pm child Stechelberg–Schilthorn
a 30-minute walk south Jun-Oct) inspired both return Sfr102/51).
of the centre. A footpath Goethe and Lord Byron
weaves through tunnels to pen poems to their 9 Schilthorn
hacked into cliffs veined ethereal beauty. Today the
with pink and green postcard-perfect village, There’s a tremendous
marble. It’s justifiably a nestled deep in the valley 360-degree, 200-peak
popular spot for canyon of 72 waterfalls, including panorama from the
and bungee-jumping the Trümmelbachfälle 2970m Schilthorn (www.
expeditions. (Trümmelbach Falls; www. schilthorn.ch), best appreci-
truemmelbachfaelle.ch; adult/ ated from the Skyline
Grindelwald is out- child Sfr11/4; h9am-5pm), viewing platform or Piz
standing hiking territory, attracts a less highfalutin Gloria revolving res-
veined with trails that crowd. taurant. On a clear day,
command arresting you can see from Titlis
views to massive north Hikes heading up into around to Mont Blanc,
faces, crevasse-filled the mountains from the and across to the German
glaciers and snow-capped waterfall-laced valley Black Forest.
peaks. High-altitude include a 2½-hour uphill
walks can be reached by trudge to car-free Mürren Some visitors seem
taking cable cars from and a more gentle 1¾- more preoccupied with
the village. hour walk to Stechelberg. practising their delivery
In winter, you can glide of the line, ‘The name’s
5 4 p539 past frozen waterfalls Bond, James Bond’, be-
The Drive » From on a well-prepared 12km cause a few scenes from
cross-country trail. On Her Majesty’s Secret
Grindelwald, follow the signs to Service were shot here
Lauterbrunnen, which is 20km The Drive » From in 1968–69. The Bond
(15 minutes) away by car. World 007 interactive
Lauterbrunnen, head to exhibition gives you the
8 Lauterbrunnen Stechelberg (10 minutes, 6km), chance to pose for photos
where you’ll leave the car (paid secret-agent style and
Laid-back Lauterbrun- parking available) and take the
nen’s wispy Staubbachfall cable car to Schiltorn (adult/

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE:
WINE TIME

The canton of Valais, which features so much of Switzerland’s stunning Alpine
scenery, is also the largest and best producer of wine in the country, so sampling it
in situ at the end of a day’s driving is a great idea.

Drenched in extra sunshine and light from above the southern Alps, much of the
land north of the Rhône River in western Valais is planted with vines. Unique to the
Valais are the bisses (narrow irrigation channels) that traverse the vineyards.

Dryish white Fendant, the perfect accompaniment to fondue and raclette, and
best served crisp cold, is the region’s best-known wine, accounting for two-thirds
of Valais wine production. Dôle, made from Pinot noir and Gamay grapes, is the
principal red blend and is full bodied, with a firm fruit flavour.

When ordering wine in a wine bar or restaurant, use the uniquely Swiss approach
of deci (decilitre – ie a 10th of a litre) multiples. Or just order a bottle…

536

THE HIGH LIFE SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps

Charming as Zermatt is, heading out of town and up to the mountains is a rush like
no other.

Europe’s highest cogwheel railway, the Gornergratbahn (www.gornergrat.ch;
Bahnhofplatz 7; one-way adult/child Sfr42/21; h7am-9.50pm), has climbed through picture-
postcard scenery to Gornergrat (3089m) – a 30-minute journey – since 1898. Sit
on the right-hand side to gawp at the Matterhorn. Tickets allow you to get on and
off en route; there are restaurants at Riffelalp (2211m) and Riffelberg (2582m).
In summer an extra train runs once a week at sunrise and sunset – the most
spectacular trips of all.

Views from Zermatt’s cable cars are all remarkable, but the Matterhorn Glacier
Paradise (www.matterhornparadise.ch; adult/child Sfr99/49.50; h8.30am-4.20pm) is the
icing on the cake. Ride Europe’s highest-altitude cable car to 3883m and marvel at
14 glaciers and 38 mountain peaks over 4000m from the Panoramic Platform (only
open in good weather). Don’t miss the Glacier Palace, an ice palace complete with
glittering ice sculptures and an ice slide to swoosh down bum first. End with some
exhilarating snow tubing outside in the snowy surrounds.

relive movie moments in sublime natural backdrop chalets and onion-domed
a helicopter and bobsled. to the rustic village of churches (47km).
dark-timber chalets.
The Drive » When you TRIP HIGHLIGHT
In winter, there are
descend back to Stechelberg, more than 50km of b Aletsch Glacier
head to Kandersteg via the road cross-country ski trails,
down to Interlaken. Get on the including the iced-over The Aletsch Glacier is a
A8/Rte 11, then take exit 19 Oeschinensee. The seemingly never-ending,
(direction Spiez/Kandersteg/ limited 15km of downhill 23km-long swirl of ice
Adelboden). The 60km trip skiing is suited to begin- with deep crevasses that
takes one hour. ners. Kandersteg’s frozen slices past thundering
waterfalls attract ice falls, jagged spires of rock
a Kandersteg climbers and the village and pine forest. It stretch-
hosts the spectacular es from Jungfrau in the
Turn up in Kandersteg annual Ice Climbing Bernese Oberland to a
wearing anything but Festival (hJan). plateau above the Rhône
muddy boots and you’ll and is, justly so, a Unesco
attract a few odd looks. The Drive » From Kandersteg, World Heritage site.
Hiking is this town’s
raison d’être, with take the BLS Lötschberg Picture-postcard
550km of surrounding Tunnel (www.bls.ch/e/ riverside Fiesch on the
trails. An amphitheatre autoverlad/tickets-goppenstein. valley floor is the best
of spiky peaks studded php), which connects with place to access it. From
with glaciers and jewel- Goppenstein (in Valais) at the village, ride the
coloured lakes such as regular intervals daily. The trip cable car (www.eggishorn.
Blausee (www.blausee.ch; takes 15 minutes and costs ch; adult/child 6-16yr return
adult/child Sfr7/3; h9am-5pm) from Sfr25 per car if booked from Fiesch Sfr57/28.50) up to
and Oeschinensee (www. online. From Goppenstein, head Fiescheralp and continue
oeschinensee.ch; cable-car one- east from Rte 9. Once past up to Eggishorn (2927m).
way/return Sfr18/26; hcable Brig, the deep valley narrows Streaming down in a
car 8am-6pm) creates a and the landscape switches to broad curve around the
rugged wilderness, with a string
of bucolic villages of timber

537

SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps Aletschhorn (4195m), the pretty and pink to dark of St Mauritius Church
glacier is just like a frozen and mysterious. Since the is sobering. Numerous
six-lane superhighway. mid-19th century, Zer- gravestones tell of un-
In the distance to the matt has starred among timely deaths on Monte
north rise the glisten- Switzerland’s glitziest re- Rosa, the Matterhorn
ing summits of Jungfrau sorts. Today skiers cruise and Breithorn. In July
(4158m), Mönch (4107m), along well-kept pistes, 2015 a memorial to ‘the
Eiger (3970m) and spellbound by the scen- unknown climber’ was
Finsteraarhorn (4274m). ery, while style-conscious unveiled to mark the
To the southwest of the darlings flash designer 150th anniversary of the
cable-car exit, you can threads in the town’s Matterhorn’s first ascent.
spy Mont Blanc and the swish lounge bars.
Matterhorn. The Matterhorn
Meander main-strip Museum (%027 967 41 00;
4 p539 Bahnhofstrasse with its www.matterhornmuseum.ch;
The Drive » It takes one hour boutiques and stream Kirchplatz; adult/child Sfr10/5;
of horse-drawn sleds or h11am-6pm Jul-Sep & mid-
(56km) to get from Fiesch to carriages and electric Dec–Apr, 3-6pm Oct–mid-Dec)
Täsch via Rte 19 to Visp, then taxis, then head towards provides a fascinating
the winding rural road to Täsch the noisy Vispa river insight into Valaisian
itself. You’ll park the car here along Hinterdorfstrasse. village life, the dawn of
before boarding the train to This old-world street is tourism in Zermatt and
car-free Zermatt. crammed with arche- the lives the Matterhorn
typal Valaisian timber has claimed. Short films
TRIP HIGHLIGHT granaries propped up portray the first success-
on stone discs and stilts ful ascent of the Mat-
c Zermatt to keep out pesky rats; terhorn on 14 July 1865,
look for the fountain led by Edward Whymper,
You can almost sense commemorating Ulrich a feat marred by tragedy
the anticipation on Inderbinen (1900–2004), on the descent when four
the train from Täsch. a Zermatt-born moun- team members crashed to
Then, as you arrive in taineer who climbed the their deaths in a 1200m
car-free Zermatt, the Matterhorn 370 times, fall down the North Wall.
pop-up-book effect of the the last time at age 90. The infamous rope that
one-of-a-kind Matterhorn broke is on display.
(4478m) works its magic. A walk in Zermatt’s
Like a shark’s fin it rises Mountaineers’ Cemetery 5 4 p539
above the town, with (Kirchstrasse) in the garden
moods that swing from

538

Eating & Sleeping

Arosa 1 Grindelwald 7

5 Burestübli Swiss €€ 5 C & M Swiss €€

(%081 377 18 38; Hotel Arlenwald, Prätschli; (%033 853 07 10; Almisgässli 1; snacks Sfr5-9,

mains Sfr25-42; h8am-midnight) This woodsy mains Sfr29-49; h8.30am-11pm Wed-Mon) Just

chalet has magical above-the-treetop views. as appetising as the seasonally inspired dishes

Come winter, pots of gooey fondue and mugs of are the stupendous views to Unterer Gletscher SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps

glühwein fuel floodlit dashes through the snow. from this gallery-style cafe’s sunny terrace.

Vals 2 4 Gletschergarten Historic Hotel €€

4 Hotel Therme Design Hotel €€€ (%033 853 17 21; www.hotel-gletschergarten.ch;
Obere Gletscherstrasse 1; s Sfr130-170, d Sfr230-
(%081 926 80 80; www.therme-vals.ch; Vals; s 300; pW) The sweet Breitenstein family make
you feel at home in their timber heirloom-filled
Sfr290-390, d Sfr390-590; pW) Peter Zumthor chalet. Rooms have balconies facing Unterer
Gletscher and Wetterhorn.
revamped many rooms at this famous spa hotel,

with others given a Japanese touch (thanks to

Tadao Ando and Kengo Kuma). The restaurants Aletsch Glacier b

emphasise local and organic ingredients.

4 Fiesch Youth Hostel Hostel €

Andermatt 4 (www.youthhostel.ch/en/hostels/fiesch; Sport

Ferien Resort; dm with shared bathroom per

4 River House person from Sfr35, d with private bathroom per

Boutique Hotel Design Hotel €€ person Sfr50) This 1970s bunker-like complex

(%041 887 00 25; www.theriverhouse.ch; plays host to 1001 activities and has spotless

Gotthardstrasse 58; s Sfr150-210, d Sfr200-280; rooms (many recently updated).

pW) At this stylish eco-hotel in a 250-year- Zermatt c

old building, the owners have created unique

and beautiful rooms, some with river views. 5 Snowboat International €

The excellent on-site restaurant features local

produce and Swiss wines. (%027 967 43 33; www.snowboat.ch;

Vispastrasse 20; mains Sfr19-26; hnoon-

Engelberg 5 midnight) This is a hybrid eating-drinking,

riverside address with yellow deckchairs on its

4 Ski Lodge Engelberg Hotel €€ rooftop terrace. Head here for barbecue-sizzled

(%041 637 35 00; www.skilodgeengelberg.com; burgers, creative salads and great cocktails.

Erlenweg 36; s/d/tr/q Sfr150/270/360/450; 4 Suitenhotel Boutique Hotel €€

pW) Run by sociable Swedish pro skiers, Zurbriggen

this delightful lodge fuses art-nouveau flair (%027 966 38 38; www.zurbriggen.ch;

with 21st-century comfort. Après-ski activities Schluhmattstrasse 68; high season d/ste/apt from

include gazing at snowy peaks from an outdoor Sfr290/420/490) Owned by Swiss Alpine skiing

spa and chef Jonas’ stellar New Nordic cuisine. legend Pirmin Zurbriggen, this modern hotel has

a handy position near the cable-car station for

Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. Suites have south-

facing balconies and Matterhorn views, plus

there’s a wellness area.

539

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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ANDY CHRISTIANI / GETTY IMAGES ©

38Geneva to Zürich

Connect the dots between Switzerland’s two biggest cities on a trip
that takes you through its enigmatic heartland, historic cities,
spine-tingling ascents and a world-famous mountain trio.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 7 DAYS
481KM / 300 MILES
0 km 481 km
Geneva Zürich GREAT FOR…
Cosmopolitan city and Culturally vibrant city
Old Town grace galore with a post-industrial BJ
edge
BEST TIME TO GO
mK
#9# Late spring, summer
and autumn, when the
Bern # Lucerne light and weather are
best.
# ##8
I ESSENTIAL
# Fribourg PHOTO

lL##1 Stanserhorn The verdant Emmental
An open-air cable car; region exemplifies
Grindelwald Hiking at the foot of the Eiger the perfect Lake pastoral perfection.
Lucerne panorama
402 km K BEST FOR
CULTURE

Zürich’s mighty
museums and
relentless nightlife are
intoxicating.

541

38 Geneva to #\
Zürich
Baume-
Doubs les-Dames
#] Besançon
Rather than take a straight line from Geneva to

Zürich, this trip gives you room to roam some FRANCE

of Switzerland’s finest sights: small cities with \# Ornans Morteau
charming Old Towns, heaven-sent lakes with dreamy #\
/·E23

views, winding roads through countryside that is by

turns bucolic and wild, an adventure capital with the Pontarlier #\ \#
perfect setting, a train ride to the top of Europe and Fôret de
la Joux Sainte-
\# Croix

scenic ascents that will have you gasping, all book-

ended by Switzerland’s cultural capitals. \# Vallorbe
Lac de Joux
Parc Naturel
Régional du
Haut-Jura

Morez MorgLeasusann#]e \#
#\ Les #\
#\ Rousses
TRIP HIGHLIGHT Pâquis (%022 732 29 74; Nyon Lake
www.bains-des-paquis.ch; Quai Geneva
1 Geneva du Mont-Blanc 30; h9am-8pm
mid-Apr–mid-Sep). \# \#
Cosmopolitan Geneva is a
rare blend: a multicultural Plenty of museums will A1/· /·Gex #\ 1 #\ Thonon-
population chattering tempt you: among the
in every language under best are the Musée d’Art Yvoire les-Bains
the sun, a distinctly
French feel, one of the Moderne et Contempo- ##]1 lL
world’s most expensive rain (MAMCO; %022 320 61 #\ Annemasse
cities, a stronghold of the 22; www.mamco.ch; Rue des Geneva #\
Protestant Reformation, Vieux-Grenadiers 10; adult/ ·/E25
a synonymity with num- child Sfr8/free; hnoon-6pm I#
bered bank accounts and Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun) p552 Bonneville
a humanitarian haven. the Musée International \#

With a whole day and de la Croix-Rouge et 1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) and the
night, schedule time for lavish timepieces of Patek
Geneva’s magnificent Old du Croissant-Rouge Philipe Museum (%022
Town. Waterside attrac- (International Red Cross & 807 09 10; www.patekmuseum.
tions exert a strong pull, Red Crescent Museum; www.
so make a beeline for the redcrossmuseum.ch; Av de la com; Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers
emblematic Jet d’Eau Paix 17; adult/child Sfr15/7;
(Quai Gustave-Ador) and the h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 7; adult/child Sfr10/free; h2-
egalitarian public swim- to 5pm Nov-Mar), the new 6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat).
ming baths at Bains des ICT Discovery (%022 730 If you’re after a behind-
61 55; www.ictdiscovery.org; the-scenes glimpse of the
Rue de Varembé 2; h10am- UN or the Large Hadron
Collider, prebook a tour
of the Palais des Nations

542

\#

/·E60 Altkirch \# /·A35 #\ Lörrach 230 km to

Montbeliard \# Feldbach ^# /·A8 FG35 ‚
Porrentruy
\# Basel Baden mKWinterthur #\
#\ #\ #]#9 Zürich #\
\# #\
Delémont Aarau
Audincourt \# /·18 Liestal
#\
Aare
#\ Olten
Balsthal ·/A4
Moutier #\ \# Hallwilersee

Maiche #\
\# Tramelan #\ Menziken
#\ Solothurn Lange\#nthal \#
#\ ·/E35 Baldeggersee

\# Zug
La Chaux- Zugersee SWITZERLAND 38 Geneva to Zürich
#\ Biel-Bienne Agerisee
\# de-Fonds Liger\#zBielersee
Burgdorf Unesco
#\
/·# # /· # ###\ E27 Biosphere #]7 Lucerne Schwyz

Neuchâtel #\ 5 Langnau im Entlebuch Lake Lucerne #\
Emmental 6 #\
Brunnen
Murten Emmental #\ Stans
#\ ]#4 Region \#
Lac de R8 Altdorf
Neuchâtel Bern 10 Sarnen #\

·/#\ A5 /·A1 ##\2 Fribourg ·/A6 Stanserhorn \#

#\ Yverdon Romont Thun GFBrienz 37 #\

\# Brienzersee \# Engelberg
SWITZERLAND Spiez
\# FG37

##\ #\ #\3 Interlaken Meiringen
·/ ·/Charmey 11 A8 Andermatt \#
Wengen
#\ #\ \# Lauterbrunnen \#\# \# Grindelwald
/·Lutry
H#\# #\
Bulle Gruyères 189 R # Jungfraujoch Airolo
Schilthorn \#
Lavaux \# (2970m) #\
Mürren
Château-d'Œx Zweisimmen \#Oberwald
#\ p548
\#
Montreux
Gstaad
·/ 4444Cul\#ly 9Ve#\vey
\# Kandersteg \#
#\
#\
Leukerbad
·/11 37 Betten \# #\ Fiesch Bignasco
FG\# ITALY \#
#\ Aigle /·4444Crans- Sierre \#
Brig
/·A9 Montana #\ \# #\
A9 \#
Visp
Châtel #\ Sion #\ 4 Varzo
#\
#\ \# Avoriaz 44e#
Les Gets 0 50 km
0 25 miles
Martigny \#
\# Verbier Täsch #\

44444R LIRNK #^ #\
(%022 907 48 96; www.unog.
ch; Av de la Paix 14; adult/child 543

4444Sfr12/7; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat
YOUR
TRIP

Jul & Aug, 10am-noon & 2-4pm | The Swiss Alps z The Romantic
Mon-Sat Sep-Jun) or CERN It’s a two-hour Road
(%022 767 84 84; www.cern. (147km) drive southeast
from Zürich to Arosa, From Zurich, drive east
ch; Meyrin; hguided tour 11am the starting point of the via the A1 to Füssen in
Swiss Alps whirl. Germany, and do the
Mon-Sat, 1pm Mon, Tue, Thu & gorgeous Romantic Road
Fri), respectively. trip in reverse,

See also the Stretch
Your Legs walking tour
for Geneva on p552.

5 p549

HANS GEORG EIBEN / GETTY IMAGES ©The Drive » From Geneva, facades, the Musée d’Art
et d’Histoire (%026 305
SWITZERLAND 38 Geneva to Zürich head west via the A1 until the 51 40; www.mahf.ch; Rue de
A9 (follow signs to Vevey/ Morat 12; adult/child Sfr8/
Montreux). Take exit 11 and free; h11am-6pm Tue, Wed & countryside aplenty. Head first
follow signs for Lutry. From Fri-Sun, to 8pm Thu) and the to the village of Charmey via Rte
Lutry, take Rte 9 (direction outsize Cathédrale de 189, then to Boltingen. Next take
Vevey) until Cully, then head up St Nicolas de Myre (www. Rte 11 to Speiz on Lake Thun,
Rte de la Corniche to Chexbres. cathedrale-fribourg.ch; Rue from where you’ll follow Rte 8 to
Next follow Rte du Genevrex and des Chanoines 3; tower adult/ Interlaken.
get on the A9, followed by the child Sfr3.50/1; h9.30am-
A12 to Fribourg (143km total). 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat,
2-5pm Sun, tower 10am-noon &
2 Fribourg 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat,
2-5pm Sun Apr-Oct) with its
Nowhere is Switzerland’s 74m-tall tower. Be sure
language divide felt more to make time for a couple
keenly than in Fribourg of the city’s bohemian
(Freiburg or ‘Free Town’), cafe-bars, such as Le
a medieval city where Port (p549) or Café
the inhabitants on the
west bank of the River Culturel de l’Ancienne
Sarine speak French, and Gare (%026 322 57 72;
those on the east bank Esplanade de l’Ancienne-Gare
of the Sanne speak Ger- 3; h9am-11.30pm Mon-Thu,
man. Sights that merit 9am-3am Fri, 1pm-3am Sat,
a look-see include the 11am-midnight Sun).
bohemian Espace Jean
Tinguely – Niki de Saint 5 4 p549
Phalle (%026 305 51 40;
www.mahf.ch; Rue de Morat 2; The Drive » We’ve chosen a
adult/child Sfr6/free; h11am-
6pm Wed & Fri-Sun, to 8pm longish (103km, one hour and
Thu), the evocative Old 50 minutes) scenic route along
Town filled with Gothic winding roads through lovely
small towns in Fribourg and
Bern cantons, with unspoiled

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: 3 Interlaken
FRIBOURG’S FILTHY
FUNICULAR Once Interlaken made
the Victorians swoon
Nowhere else in Europe does a funicular lurch up with mountain vistas
the mountainside with the aid of stinky sewage from the chandelier-
water (on certain days it smells as you’d expect). lit confines of grand
Constructed in 1899 and managed by the Cardinal hotels; today it makes
Brewery until 1965 (when the municipality took over), daredevils scream with
the Funiculaire de Fribourg links the lower town adrenaline-loaded
with the upper. It runs every six minutes, and the adventures. Straddling
ride in one of two counterbalancing water-powered the glittering Lakes Thun
carriages from the lower Pertuis station (121m; Place and Brienz and dazzled
du Pertuis) to the upper station (618m; Rte des by the pearly whites
Alpes) takes two minutes. of Eiger, Mönch and
Jungfrau, the scenery is

544

Bern The city’s Zytglogge (Clock Tower) is an important landmark

mind-blowing. Check out Schloss Hünegg. After Thun, and fantastical folk
the views from Harder you’ll get to the country’s capital figures frolicking on
Kulm (www.harderkulm. quickly via the A6. 16th-century fountains,
ch), or do a daredevil such as the Kindlifresser-
activity with Outdoor 4 Bern brunnen (Kornhausplatz).
Interlaken (%033 826 77 Be sure to visit Bern’s
19; www.outdoor-interlaken.ch; Wandering through the Münster (www.berner
Hauptstrasse 15; h8am-7pm), picture-postcard Old muenster.ch; Münsterplatz
organised in advance. Town, with its laid-back,
Leave the car in Inter- riverside air, it’s hard 1; tower adult/child Sfr5/2;
laken after spending the to believe that Bern
night here and head to (Berne in French) is the h10am-5pm Mon-Sat,
the Top of Europe (Jung- Swiss capital, but it is,
fraujoch) very early the and a Unesco World 11.30am-5pm Sun May–mid-
next morning. Heritage site to boot. The
flag-festooned, cobbled Oct, noon-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-
4 p549 centre, rebuilt in distinc-
tive grey-green sandstone 5pm Sat, 11.30am-4pm Sun
The Drive » From Interlaken after a devastating 1405 rest of year), the beautiful
fire, is a delight, with Zytglogge (Marktgasse),
to Bern is a one-hour (54km) 6km of covered arcades, the famous Bären Park
drive via Lake Thun’s cellar shops and bars, (Bear Park; www.baerenpark-
Seestrasse, past turreted bern.ch; h9.30am-5pm), the
Schloss Oberhoffen and art- architecturally daring
nouveau-meets-neorenaissance Zentrum Paul Klee (%031
359 01 01; www.zpk.org;

Monument im Fruchtland 3;

545

SWITZERLAND 38 Geneva to Zürich ISLAND DINING

Genevan living is easy in summer when a constant crowd throngs the lakefront
quays to hang out in pop-up terrace bars such as La Terrasse (www.laterrasse.ch;
Quai du Mont-Blanc 31; h8am-midnight Apr-Sep), the fashionista spot by the water to see
and be seen. Meander away from Quai du Mont-Blanc to uncover a brilliant trio of
beloved summertime shacks on the water’s edge – alfresco and effortlessly cool.

The right-bank address is refreshingly casual: Rhône-side Terrasse Le Paradis
(%079 665 35 73; www.terrasse-paradis.ch; Quai Turrettini; sandwiches & salads Sfr10-14;
h10am-9pm Jun-Sep) is the type of cafe that practically begs you to pull out a book
and stay all day in its deckchairs arranged down steps to the water while sipping
beakers of homemade citronnade (lemonade). ‘Paradise’ does not serve alcohol,
but the pots of green-mint tea flow and the wholly affordable sandwiches, salads
and legendary taboulé hit the spot.

Le Bateau Lavoir (Passerelle des Lavandières; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Fri,
5pm-2am Sat May-Sep) is an eye-catching boat with rooftop terrace moored between
the old market hall and Pont de la Coulouvrenière. Its cabin-size dining area cooks
fondue and other basic local dishes, the crowd is hip and there is a 360-degree lake
view. Its very design and name evokes the wash-house boats – yes, where undies et
al were washed – that floated here in the 17th century.

Then there’s La Barje (Terrasse des Lavandières; www.labarje.ch; Promenade des
Lavandières; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri, 3pm-midnight Sat & Sun Apr-Sep), not a barge at all
but a vintage caravan with tin roof and candy-striped facade, parked on the grassy
banks of the Rhône near the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices. The beer and music are
plentiful, outside concerts and art performances pull huge crowds, and proceeds go
towards helping young people in difficulty.

adult/child Sfr20/7, audioguide Affoltern and Langnau im The region’s gateway
Sfr6; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Emmental is 21km (25 minutes). towns of Burgdorf and
and the well-endowed Langnau im Emmental
Kunstmuseum (Museum 5 Emmental Region preside over a mellow
of Fine Arts; %031 328 09 44; patchwork of quiet vil-
www.kunstmuseumbern.ch; After so much city time, lages, grazing cows and
Hodlerstrasse 8-12; adult/child the postcard-perfect fabulous farm chalets
Sfr7/free; h10am-9pm Tue, to landscapes of rural with vast barns and over-
5pm Wed-Sun). Switzerland beckon, with hanging roofs, strung out
the bucolic idyll that is along the banks of the
5 4 p549 the Emmental region, Emme river. Burgdorf
where iconic and holey (literally ‘castle village’)
The Drive » Leave Emmental (Swiss) cheese is split into an Upper and
is produced. To see how Lower Town. The natural
Bern via the A6 and take the cheese is made, highlight of the Ober-
Krauchthalstrasse (35 minutes, head to Emmentaler stadt (Upper Town) is
about 24km) through verdant Schaukäserei (%034 the 12th-century Schloss
countryside to Burgdorf. 435 16 11; www.showdairy. (castle), with its draw-
From Burgdorf to Affoltern im ch; Schaukäsereistrasse 6, bridge, thick stone walls
Emmental, 6km to the east, is a Affoltern; h9am-6.30pm and trio of museums.
scenic drive past old farmsteads Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) in
proudly bedecked with flower Affoltern. The Drive » From Langnau
boxes, neat woodpiles and
kitchen gardens. Rte 23 between im Emmental, take Rte 10 for

546

30 minutes (23km), crossing bridges Kapellbrücke TRIP HIGHLIGHT SWITZERLAND 38 Geneva to Zürich
over from Bern canton to (Chapel Bridge) and
Lucerne canton, until you reach Spreuerbrücke (Spreuer 8 Stanserhorn
Schüpfheim, the heart of the Bridge; btwn Kasernenplatz &
Entlebuch biosphere. Mühlenplatz), sunny plazas, Looming above the lake,
candy-coloured houses and 1898m Stanserhorn (www.
6 Unesco Biosphere waterfront promenades. stanserhorn.ch) boasts
Entlebuch Legend has it that an angel 360-degree vistas of Lake
with a light showed the Lucerne, Mt Titlis, Mt
The 39,000-plus-sq-km first settlers where to build Pilatus and the Bernese
Entlebuch area (www. a chapel in Lucerne, and Alps, among others.
biosphaere.ch; a mixed today it still has amazing Getting to the summit is
mountain and highland grace. half the fun. The journey
ecosystem) was declared a starts with a ride on a
Unesco Biosphere Reserve One minute it’s nostal- vintage 19th-century
in 2001. Far from being a gic (its emotive lion monu- funicular from Stans
lonely wilderness outpost, ment; Löwendenkmal; to Kälti; from here,
the reserve is home Denkmalstrasse), the next the nearly transparent
to some 17,000 people highbrow, with concerts CabriO (%041 618 80 40;
keen to preserve their at acoustic marvel Kultur www.cabrio.ch; Stansstad-
traditional dairy-farming erstrasse 19, Stans, ticket
lifestyle. The landscape of und Kongresszentrum office; all-inclusive funicular
karst formations, sprawl- (KKL; %tour reservations 041 & cable-car fare adult/child
ing moors (some 25% of 226 79 50; www.kkl-luzern. one-way Sfr37/9.25, return
the area), Alpine pastures ch; Europaplatz; guided tour Sfr74/18.50, online boarding
and mountain streams, adult/child Sfr15/9) and the pass Sfr5; hmid-Apr–early
which rise from 600m peerless Picasso collection Nov), launched in 2012 as
to some 2350m above of Museum Sammlung the world’s first cable car
sea level, makes for some Rosengart (%041 220 16 60; with an open upper deck,
stirring scenery. The park www.rosengart.ch; Pilatusstrasse takes you the rest of the
office is in Schüpfheim. 10; adult/student Sfr18/16; way, offering amazing
h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 11am-5pm on-the-go views.
The Drive » Driving through Nov-Mar). Crowd-pleasers
such as Verkehrshaus On sunny days and
Entlebuch from Schüpfheim, (Swiss Museum of Transport; when large numbers of
you’ll take the Panoramastrasse %041 370 44 44; www.verkehr travellers are expected,
(which deserves to be more shaus.ch; Lidostrasse 5; adult/ you’ll need to book an
famous) to the town of Giswil child Sfr30/15; h10am-6pm online ‘boarding pass’
(Obwalden canton; 50 minutes, Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; c) to confirm your time of
37km). Next, follow the signs and the city’s surrounding departure and subsequent
to Lucerne (Luzern in German) natural wonders never fail return.
along the A8 (30 minutes, to impress, while balmy
30km). summers and golden au- At the summit there’s
tumns ensure this ‘city of the star-shaped Rondo-
7 Lucerne lights’ shines constantly. rama, the region’s only
revolving restaurant,
Recipe for a gorgeous 5 4 p549 which rotates 360 de-
Swiss city: take a cobalt grees every 43 minutes.
lake ringed by mountains The Drive » A fast 15-minute, Kids love the nearby
of myth (Pilatus, Rigi), add marmot park, where the
a well-preserved medieval 15km journey along the A2 critters can be observed
Altstadt (Old Town), then will get you from Lucerne to in a near-natural habitat.
sprinkle with covered Stans’ Stansstaderstrasse 19,
from where the journey up to
Stanserhorn begins.

547

SWITZERLAND 38 Geneva to Zürich DETOUR:
JUNGFRAUJOCH: THE TOP OF EUROPE

Presided over by monolithic Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (Ogre, Monk and Maiden), the
crown jewels of Bernese Oberland’s Alpine scenery, will make your heart skip a beat.

The ‘big three’ peaks have an enduring place in mountaineering legend,
particularly the 3970m Eiger, whose fearsome north wall remained unconquered
until 1938. Today, it takes only 2½ hours from Interlaken Ost (return fare Sfr204.40)
by train to Jungfraujoch (3454m), Europe’s highest station. From May through to
October, the Good Morning Ticket costs Sfr145 if you take the first train (6.35am
from Interlaken Ost) and leave the summit by 1pm.

From Kleine Scheidegg (the last stage of the journey), the train burrows through
the Eiger before arriving at the Sphinx meteorological station. Opened in 1912, the
tunnel took 3000 men 16 years to drill. Along the way, the Eigerwand and Eismeer
stops have panoramic windows offering glimpses across rivers of crevassed ice.
Good weather is essential for this journey; check beforehand on www.jungfrau.
ch and always take warm clothing, sunglasses and sunscreen. Within the Sphinx
weather station there’s a nice sculpture gallery, restaurants, indoor viewpoints and
a souvenir shop. Outside there are views of the 23km-long Aletsch Glacier. On
cloudless days, the views stretch as far as the Black Forest in Germany.

When you tire (as if!) of the view, you can zip across the frozen plateau on a flying
fox, dash downhill on a sled or snow disc, or enjoy a bit of tame skiing or boarding at
the Snow Park. A day pass covering all activities costs adult/child Sfr45/25.

If you cross the glacier along the prepared path, in around an hour you reach the
Mönchsjochhütte (%033 971 34 72; www.moenchsjoch.ch; dm/d with half-board Sfr28/64;
hlate Mar–mid-Oct) at 3650m, where hardcore rock climbers psyche themselves up
to tackle the Eiger or Mönch.

The Drive » Retrace your yet Switzerland’s largest shaker steeples, and the
and wealthiest metropolis excellent Kunsthaus (%044
route along the A2 and head in has an artsy, postindus- 253 84 84; www.kunsthaus.ch;
the direction of Lucerne before trial edge. Much of the Old Heimplatz 1; adult/child Sfr15/
changing to the A4 and following Town, with its winding free, Wed free; h10am-8pm
the signs to Zürich (50 minutes, lanes and quaint squares, Wed-Fri, to 6pm Tue, Sat & Sun),
65km). is lovingly intact. Must-see which holds an impressive
sights include the glorious permanent collection. In
TRIP HIGHLIGHT Fraumünster (www.frau summer, the fun revolves
muenster.ch; Münsterhof; around the pools of the
9 Zürich lake and river, such as See-
h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm bad Utoquai (%044 251 61 51;
Culturally vibrant, effi- Nov-Mar), with its Marc Utoquai 49; adult/child Sfr7/3.50;
ciently run and attractively Chagall stained-glass h7am-8pm mid-May–mid-Sep),
set at the meeting of river windows, the Grossmün- Frauenbad (Stadthausquai)
and lake, Zürich is con- ster (www.grossmuenster.ch; and Männerbad (Badweg 10).
stantly recognised as one Grossmünsterplatz; h10am-
of the world’s most liveable 5 p549
cities. It’s a savvy, hard- 6pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb)
working financial centre, with its salt-and-pepper-

548