PABLO RODRIGO GARCÍA-ARÁEZ / GETTY IMAGES © Douro Valley
32Vineyard Trails
The Douro is a little drop of heaven. Uncork this region on Porto’s
doorstep and you’ll soon fall head over heels in love with its
terraced vineyards, wine estates and soul-stirring vistas.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 5–7 DAYS
358KM / 222 MILES
171 km 193 km
Quinta do Crasto Pinhão GREAT FOR…
Eyrie-like winery in the Wine tastings and Douro
Unesco-listed Alto cruises on a gorgeous HJ
Douro region
mKbend in the river BEST TIME TO GO
lL Peso da #7
Miranda do Douro Spring for wildflowers,
#1 ##Regua 4 8 early autumn for the
# # grape harvest.
# I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
Vila Nova
de Foz Côa The staggering view of
the Douro vineyards
Porto Casal de Loivos from Casal de Loivos
Medieval core, historic Gasp-eliciting views of miradouro.
port lodges galore and Douro vines cascading
a whole lotta soul down the hillsides K BEST FOR
1 km 197 km FOODIES
Douro Valley Vineyards to the west of Porto Chef Rui Paula keeps
it regional at DOC, with
vineyard and river views
from its terrace.
449
32 Douro Valley
Vineyard Trails
You’re in for a treat. This Unesco World Heritage region is hands down one of
Portugal’s most evocative landscapes, with mile after swoon-worthy mile of
vineyards spooling along the contours of its namesake river and marching up
terraced hillsides. Go for the food, the fabulous wines, the palatial quintas,
the medieval stone villages and the postcard views on almost every corner.
#^ #\ #\
#\
Esposende Barcelos Braga \#Póvoa de
\# \# Lanhoso
#^
Taipas
Vila Nova de #\ /·A7 \#dVeilaAPgouuiacra
Famalicão Fafe
\# \# /·N2
#\ Guimarães
\#
0¸Trofa #\ #\ #\ Felgueiras Parque Casa do
Natural Visconde de
Caldas de ·/IC5 do Alvão Chanceleiros
Vizela Vila Real #^
Amarante \#
N206 ·/A4
#\
Casal de
0¸ ¸0 ##ega \#
## ## #Marco de
#\ Maia N313-1 Loivos
68
\# N101 Quinta
do Vallado
Penafiel
#\ Río Tâm Mesão Frio \# 23 4 #\5 #\7
lL#Porto 1 ¸0 H#Canaveses
Valongo N108
/·#\ Rio Douro
\# 0¸N108 Peso da p452 Pinhão
Régua
Vila Nova Quinta do Quinta
Lamego\# Crasto Nova
\# N2
de Gaia Castelo #\ ¸0N226 \#
Espinho \# de Paiva
Tarouca
/·IP3
ATOLCAENATNIC Moimenta
da Beira
#\ Arouca
Sernancelhe
Castro Daire \# #\
/·Ovar \# A1 0¸N329
440 km to Aguiar da Beira\#
FG33 São Pedro
‚ do Sul
\#
TRIP HIGHLIGHT hillside. Many open their to British-run Taylor’s PORTUGAL 32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails
barrel-lined cellars for (%223 742 800; www.taylor.
1 Porto guided tours and tastings pt; Rua do Choupelo 250; tour
– usually of three differ- €5; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to
Before kick-starting your ent ports – that will soon 5pm Sat & Sun) (don’t miss
road trip, devote a day or help you tell your tawny the immense 100,000L
two to Porto, snuggled on from your late-bottled barrel), Graham’s (%223
banks of the Río Douro, vintage. Top billing goes 776 484; www.grahams-port.
where life is played out
in the mazy lanes of LINK u Historic
the medieval Ribeira YOUR Castilla y León
district. From here, the TRIP
double-decker Ponte de For a taste of historic
Dom Luís I, built by an x Alentejo Spain, head east from
apprentice of Gustav Eif- & Algarve Miranda do Douro across
fel in 1877, takes the river Beaches the border to Tordesillas,
in its stride. Cross it to then southeast to Madrid
reach Vila Nova de Gaia, Do one trip in reverse: (about 3 hours).
where grand 17th-century about four hours south
port lodges march up the from Porto are great
beaches and towns with
Moorish heritage.
e# 0 Km #40 km Mirand#\a
0 do Douro
20 miles
1\#0
Mirandela #\ ·/IP2 #\
/·A4 Duas
Igrejas 45 km
Murça
\# to
Lodões Mogadouro FG30
#\ ‚
#\ /·IC5
#\ Alijó ¸0N102 Trabanca \#
\#Tua
Fornos
#\
¸0N222 Rio Douro
#\ São João de
hão Pesqueira \# Pocinho Parque SPAIN
Natural do Douro #\ Saucelle
#\ Duero
International
#9 Barca#\ Rio \# Vilagudino
de Alva
Vila Nova
de Foz Côa
·/Marialva IP2 Figueira #\ Lumbrales
#\ de Castelo San Felices
#\
Rodrigo #\ de los
#\ Gallegos
¸0N102
\# Trancoso Pinhel Martin de Yeltes 451
#\ #\
\#
#\
PORTUGAL 32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails com; Rua do Agro 141; tour demarcated port-wine The Drive » From Peso da
€5-20; h9.30am-6pm Apr- area. It grew into a major
Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar) and port-wine entrepôt in the Régua, take the first exit onto
Calém (%223 746 672; www. 18th century. While not the N2 at the roundabout at
calem.pt; Avenida Diogo Leite as charming as its set- the end of Rua Dr Manuel de
344; Cellar visit & tasting adult/ ting, the town is worth Arriaga, then the third exit at
reduced/under 12 €5/2.50/ visiting for its Museu do the next roundabout to join the
free; h10am-6.30pm). Douro (www.museudodouro. N313. Turn right onto the N313-1
pt; Rua Marqués de Pombal; when you see the yellow sign to
The Drive » There are quicker adult/concession €6/3; Quinta do Vallado. It’s around a
h10am-6pm daily May-Oct, 5km drive.
ways of getting from A to B, Tue-Sun Nov-Apr). Housed in
sure, but for immersion in Douro a beautifully converted 3 Quinta do Vallado
wine country, you can’t beat this riverside warehouse,
three-hour (137km) drive east the museum whisks Ah, what views! The
on the N108. The serpentine you through the entire vineyards spread pic-
road shadows the Río Douro wine spectrum, from turesquely before you
from Porto to Peso da Régua, impressionist landscapes from Quinta do Vallado
with views of hillsides combed to the remains of an (%254 318 081, 254 323
with vines, little chapels and old flat-bottomed port 147; www.quintadovallado.
woodlands spilling down to the hauler. Down at the com; Vilarinho dos Freires;
sparkling river. pier, you’ll find frequent r €120-180; paWs),
50-minute boat trips to a glorious 70-hectare
2 Peso da Régua Pinhão, offered by Tomaz winery. It brings together
do Douro (%222 081 935; five rooms in an old
Terraced hills scaled www.viadouro-cruzeiros. stone manor and eight
with vines like a dragon’s com; cruises from €10), for swank rooms in an ultra-
backbone rise around instance. modern slate building,
riverside Peso da Régua. decked out with chestnut
The sun-bleached town 5 4 p457 and teak wood, each
is the region’s largest, complete with a balcony.
abutting the Río Douro They all share a gorgeous
at the western end of the pool. Guests get a free
tour of the winery, with a
DETOUR: tasting. Have a fine wine-
DOC paired meal and stay the
night. The staff can also
Start: 2 Peso da Régua help arrange activities
like cycling, hiking,
Architect Miguel Saraiva’s ode to clean-lined, glass- fishing or canoeing – just
walled minimalism, DOC (%254 858 123; www.ruipaula. ask.
com; Folgosa; mains €27.50-29; h12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-
11pm) is headed up by Portuguese star chef Rui Paula. The Drive » From Quinta do
Its terrace peering out across the river is a stunning
backdrop. Dishes give a pinch of imagination to Vallado, the N313-2, CM1258
seasonal, regional flavours, from fish açordas (stews) and N322-2 take you on a
to game and wild mushrooms – all of which are 29km drive east through the
paired with carefully selected wines from the cellar. curvaceous wine terraces of the
It’s in Folgosa, midway between Peso da Régua and Alto Douro, past immaculately
Pinhão, on the south side of the river. Take the N2 tended rows of vines and chalk-
south of Peso da Régua, then hook onto the N222 white hamlets, with tantalising
heading east. glimpses of the river below.
After Gouvinhas, the wiggling
road takes you south to Quinta
do Crasto.
452
TRIP HIGHLIGHT com; s €134-152, d €152-173; TRIP HIGHLIGHT PORTUGAL 32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails
Ws) is simply stunning.
4 Quinta do Crasto Besides plush lodgings 7 Pinhão
in a beautifully restored
Perched like an eyrie on 19th-century manor, it Encircled by terraced
a promontory above the offers romantic grounds, hillsides that yield
Río Douro and a spec- a pool gazing out across some of the world’s best
tacular ripple of terraced vines rolling into the dis- port – and some damn
vineyards, Quinta do tance, a restaurant, wine good table wines too –
Crasto (%934 920 024, 254 tours, tastings and some little Pinhão sits on a
920 020; www.quintadocrasto. of the region’s top walk- particularly lovely bend
pt; Sabrosa, Gouvinhas; tours ing trails – the longest of of the Río Douro. Winer-
€18; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) which is 2½ hours. ies and their competing
quite literally takes your signs dominate the scene
breath away. The winery The Drive » It’s a 10km drive and even the delight-
is beautifully set amid ful train station has
the lyrical landscapes of east from Quinta Nova to Casa azulejos (tiles) depict-
the Alto Douro, a Unesco do Visconde de Chanceleiros ing the grape harvest.
World Heritage site. Stop on the CM1268, tracing the The town, though cute,
by for a tour and tasting contours of the emerald-green holds little of interest,
or lunch. It produces vines unfurling around you but makes a fine base for
some of the country’s exploring the surround-
best drops – reds that 6 Casa do Visconde ing vineyards. From
are complex, spicy and de Chanceleiros here, you can also cruise
smooth, with wild berry upriver into the heart of
aromas, and whites that Fancy staying the night the Alto Douro aboard a
are fresh, with a mineral up in the hills of the sub- traditional flat-bottomed
nose and tang of citrus lime Alto Douro? Casa port boat with Douro-a-
and apples. Designed by do Visconde de Chance- Vela (%918 793 792; www.
Portuguese architect Ed- leiros (%254 730 190; www. douro-a-vela.pt; 1hr cruise
uardo Souto Moura, the chanceleiros.com; s €130-140, €25). Catch the boat from
plunge pool here appears d €135-170; pWs) is the Folgosa do Douro
to nosedive directly into a gorgeous 250-year- pier. Or rewind to the
the valley below. old manor house, with early days of viniculture
spacious standard and on a guided tour followed
The Drive » From Quinta do superior rooms featuring by a tasting at Quinta
classic decor and patios.
Crasto it’s an easy 4km drive The expansive views of Nova Wine Museum &
east along the mellow banks of the valley and lush ter- Shop (Aris Douro; %254 730
the Río Douro to Quinta Nova via raced gardens steal the 030; www.quintanova.com;
the N322-2 and CM1268. show, but so does the out- Largo da Estacão 14; tours &
door pool, tennis court, tastings €5; htours 11am,
5 Quinta Nova Jacuzzi, and sauna in a 3pm & 5pm Mon-Sat, 11am &
wine barrel. Delicious 3pm Sun Apr-Oct).
Set on a ridge, surround- dinners (€38) are served
ed by 120 hectares of on request. 5 4 p457
ancient vineyards, over-
looking the Douro river The Drive » A gentle 7.5km The Drive » Veer slightly
with mountains layered
in the distance, Quinta drive east along the M590, with west of Pinhão on the N323
Nova (%254 730 420, 254 spirit-lifting views across the and turn right onto the M585,
730 430; www.quintanova. terraced vineyards, the deep- following the sign for Casal de
green Douro and family-run Loivos, 4.5km away. The country
quintas, brings you to Pinhão. road that weaves up through
453
SHAUN EGAN / GETTY IMAGES ©
WHY THIS IS ADANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
KERRY CHRISTIANI,
AUTHOR
Step down a gear and enjoy the
sweet life. Shadowing the bends in
the river from Porto to the Spanish
border, the Douro plays up romance,
with its steeply climbing vines, giddy
views and meandering roads leading
to chalk-white hamlets, barrel-lined
cellars and historic quintas, where
fine meals and Portugal’s best
wines are served to the backbeat of
cicadas.
Top: A boat cruises past the Douro’s terraced vineyards
Left: Decorative tiles at Pinhão’s train station
Right: The Río Douro framed by surrounding hills
454
PORTUGAL 32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trailsthe vines, with the river below,
later becomes the cobbled
MICHAEL MELFORD / GETTY IMAGES © Rua da Calçada, passing
socalcos (stone-walled terraced
vineyards).
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
8 Casal de Loivos
It’s a tough call, but
Casal de Loivos has
hands down one of the
most staggeringly beauti-
ful views in the region.
From the miradouro
(viewpoint), the uplifting
vista reduces the Douro
to postcard format, tak-
ing in the full sweep of
its stone-walled terraced
vineyards, stitched into
the hillsides and fringing
the sweeping contours of
the valley, and the river
scything through them.
To maximise on these
dreamy views, stay the
night at Casa de Casal
de Loivros (%254 732 149;
www.casadecasaldeloivos.com;
s/d €90/110; is). The
elegant house has been in
this winemaking family
for nearly 350 years. The
halls are enlivened by
museum-level displays of
folkloric dresses, and the
perch – high above the
Alto Douro – is spec-
tacular. Swim laps in the
pool while peering down
across the vines spread-
ing in all directions.
The Drive » Backtrack on the
N323, then pick up the N222
south of the river for the 64km
drive southeast to Vila Nova de
Foz Côa. The winding road takes
you through some picture-book
scenery, with whitewashed
hamlets and quintas
punctuating vines, orchards and
olive groves.
455
PORTUGAL 32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails 9 Vila Nova de derstand just how close ros, visit the Museu da
Foz Côa these aeons-old drawings Terra de Miranda (Praça
came to disappearing. de Dom João III; admission €2,
Welcome to the heart of Sun morning free; h9am-1pm
the Douro’s terra quente The Drive » Wrap up your & 2-6pm Wed-Sun, 2-6pm Tue).
(hot land). This once- If you’d rather get a taste
remote, whitewashed road trip by driving 120km of the rugged nature on
town has been on the northeast to Miranda do Douro Miranda’s doorstep,
map since the 1990s, via the N102, IP2 and IC5. The Europarques (%273
when researchers, during closer the Spanish border, the 432 396; www.europarques.
a proposed project for more you’ll notice the shift in com; adult/child under 10yr
a dam, stumbled across scenery, with lushness giving €16/8; htrips 4pm daily,
an astounding stash of way to more arid, rugged terrain, plus 11am Sat & Sun) runs
Paleolithic art. Thou- speckled with vineyards and 1½-hour river boat trips
sands of these mysterious olive groves. along a dramatic gorge.
rock engravings speckle Boats leave from beside
the Río Côa valley. Come a Miranda do Douro the dam on the Portu-
to see its world-famous guese side. Stop by the
gallery of rock art at the A fortified frontier town
hunkering down on Parque Natural do Douro
Parque Arqueológico do the precipice of the Río
Vale do Côa (www.arte-coa. Douro canyon, Miranda Internacional Office
pt; Av Gago Coutinho 19 A, Foz do Douro was long a bul- (%273 431 457; Largo do
Côa; park €10, museum €5 wark of Portugal’s ‘wild Castelo; h9.30am-12.30pm
(on Sun afternoons €1), park east’. While its crumbling & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) for the
& museum €12; hmuseum castle and handsomely inside scoop on hiking
10am-1.30pm & 2-5.30pm severe 16th-century among the woods and
Tue-Sun, park 9am-12.30pm cathedral still lend an air towering granite cliffs
& 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun). The of medieval charm, mod- of the 832-sq-km park,
three sites open to the ern-day Miranda now home to bird species
public include Canada do receives weekend Span- including black storks,
Inferno, with departures ish tourists, as opposed Egyptian vultures,
at around 9.30am from to repelling Castillian peregrine falcons, golden
the park museum in Vila attacks. For an insight on eagles and Bonelli’s
Nova de Foz Côa, which the region’s border cul- eagles.
is the ideal place to un- ture, including ancient
rites such as the ‘stick 5 4 p457
dancing’ of the paulitei-
456
Eating & Sleeping
Peso da Régua 2 winery runs hour-long tours (€3) followed by
tastings at 11am daily. The bright, appealing
5 Castas e Pratos Portuguese €€€ rooms straddle different buildings and private PORTUGAL 32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails
villas are available for weekly rental. Three-
(%254 323 290; www.castasepratos.com; course dinners (€25) are perfectly matched
Av José Vasques Osório; mains €19.50-22.50; with wines, and during the autumn harvest you
h10.30am-11pm) The coolest dining room can even join in with grape-treading traditions.
in town is set in a restored wood-and-stone
railyard warehouse with exposed original 4 Vintage House Boutique Hotel €€€
timbers. You can order grilled alheira sausage or
octopus salad from the tapas bar downstairs or (%254 730 230; www.csvintagehouse.
have the seabass on seafood fumet with saffron com; Lugar da Ponte; s €140-210, d €180-
filaments, or kid goat in port with fava beans in 285; paiWs) Occupying a string of
the mezzanine. 19th-century buildings right on the river, this
luxurious sleep is actually very modern once
4 Hotel Régua Douro Hotel €€ you get past the distinctly English facade (a
reminder of the key role Brits played in the port
(%254 320 700; www.hotelreguadouro.pt; trade). This is where BB King stayed when he
rocked the Douro. All rooms have terraces or
Largo da Estação; s €91-96, d €112.50-152.50; balconies with river views.
paiWs) This industrial-sized hotel
sits by the river and is steps from the train
station. It has plush, carpeted rooms in ruby (or Miranda do Douro a
is that tawny?) colour schemes and windows
overlooking the Douro. The pool is much 5 São Pedro Portuguese €€
appreciated on hot days. (%273 431 321; Rua Mouzinho de Albuquerque;
mains €7.50-12.50; hnoon-3pm daily, 7-10pm
Pinhão 7 Tue-Sun) This spacious restaurant, just in from
5 Veladouro the main old-town gate, serves up a fine posta á
Portuguese € São Pedro (grilled veal steak dressed with garlic
(%254 738 166; Rua de Praia 3; mains €6-8; and olive oil). The €11 tourist menu comes with
h10am-11pm Mon-Sat) Simple Portuguese soup, main, dessert, wine and coffee.
food, such as wood-grilled meats, is served 4 Hotel Parador
inside this quaint schist building or outside Santa Catarina Hotel €€
under a canopy of vines. From the train station, (%273 431 005; www.hotelparadorsantacatarina.
turn left and go along the main road for 150m, pt; Largo da Pousada; s/d/tr/q €50/80/85/100;
then left again under a railway bridge, and right paW) Every guest gets a private veranda
at the river. with spectacular views of the gorge at this
4 Quinta de la Rosa B&B €€ luxurious hotel perched on the canyon’s edge.
(%254 732 254; www.quintadelarosa.com; d Rooms are a handsome mix of traditional and
€80-120, ste €120-140, villa per week €750- contemporary, with hardwood floors, flat-screen
1800) Sitting on the banks of the Douro, 2km TVs and large marble bathrooms. The attached
west of Pinhão, this charming vineyard and restaurant is the most upmarket in town.
457
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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JUAMPITER / GETTY IMAGES ©
Alentejo &
33Algarve Beaches
On this sunny coastal drive you’ll experience some of Europe’s
finest beaches and explore the picturesque, formerly Moorish
towns of Portugal’s south.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 4–6 DAYS
360 KM / 225 MILES
LlVila Nova de 70 km 310 km
Milfontes Aljezur Faro GREAT FOR…
# Pretty castle-topped Evocative old town,
town, gateway to estuary trips and a HJG
glorious beaches bone chapel
BEST TIME TO GO
Zambujeira
do Mar Good all year, but
crowded in July and
# August.
##4 # Silves mK I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
##9 # Cacela
#8# The rock formations at
Velha Praia da Marinha.
#1#5 K BEST FOR
WILDLIFE
Sagres Lagos
End-of-the-world cliffs Handsome, hedonistic The Sagres area offers
and an impressive town with great beaches, great birdwatching
fortress restaurants and nightlife and boat trips to view
145 km 180 km dolphins and perhaps
whales.
Carvoeiro Rock arches at Praia da Marinha
459
33 Alentejo &
Algarve Beaches
Portugal’s southern coasts offer a Mediterranean ideal, with fragrances of
pine, rosemary, wine and grilling fish drifting over some absolutely stunning
beaches. Only this isn’t the Med, it’s the Atlantic, so add serious surfable
waves, important maritime history and great wildlife-watching opportunities
to the mix. This drive takes in some of the finest beaches in the region, and
explores the intriguing towns, which conserve their tight-knit Moorish street
plans. #\
LlCercal #\ 451 km to
#Vila Nova de Milfontes 1 GF32
Río MiraRío Sado·/IP2
‚ Castro
Río Mira Verde \#
Parque 0¸N263 Ourique \# ·/IP1 /·N2
doNSautduoraelste
ATOLCAENATNIC Alentejano e Ribeira de Oeiras
Costa \# BdearSraangteam 0¸N264
Vicentina Clara
Odemira
/·IC4 Río Mira \#
#Zambujeira do Mar 2 #\ Almodôvar
\# São
Teotónio Sta Clara-
N120
¸0Praia de /·a-Velha
IC1
Odeceixe
Ù#
\#
# ### ##¸0 # 0¸ H#¸0# ## /· # ¸0 # #VdCiceRCVaVeSaiarnlaapbrãtlMaoooeedpsooPFAPenaBiirtrrtrgeaÙ#iaarePsAuiiiCir8pPfaamreaaloraéiidaodnarrSE\#iFrieaOaaadgse#\ai7Bgooitddgr#ÙeÙ#uu6#Ùaa5evredÙ#eecB#\ieris#Ùeraen\#ainsx#\#\BsA4\#eAaul#\Rmlfrf#\NrA3aogMi1amFamgl2djao0uielbe#\rR(nz3mnrLti4aubeaRae6serSglimearota9\#n)estdAaeCl(Pdv9aSoFaNo0s\#eR&ór12air#\R2lxtmia5sPeiom)r\#pc\#aM4RNhã1i602ooaa66P(n76i7cc3ohCm1tiaq2aR)\#ure1PvC(12oohRB4dLriei\#S7abqcoaimerihurigAlrrdSoeev)#\aoaraiãsdeagraoeoSseAd\#mOMeeAlPbrd\#laerugearrlofc\#oaSdezouieRãrsc\#o\#iaaIMPTb\#1euBFeineAParsFaerrslrtartsiadeeon#Ùle1i\#éiRleArao3AassilmdbrsdiQaaeeeaidiuruaPeaade#\Nr\#AdLt1naee2loamT5iAurôaallJérgVn\##\ãi\#ecbo::SnirISd1lgeddã4eãoaa:r#\oeM#\j::LAFaa\#Moam1tCd5r:Bduooeaeooarsnicxe\#r#\Sd::cVhirnEaeaãaeoslrçonl:ApahtocoóBlpoO\#poi::arolá\#hcrshãt::eoo\#l
::
::
PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches1 Vila NovaNatural do SudoesteZambujeira attracts a
de Milfontes Alentejano e Costa Vi- backpacker, surfy crowd,
Río Gu centina and is still a port though in August the
One of the loveliest (Hannibal is said to have town is a party place and
towns along this stretch sheltered here) alongside hosts the massive music
of the coast, Vila Nova a lovely, sand-edged limb fest, Festa do Sudoeste.
de Milfontes has an of estuary. The high-season crowds
attractive, whitewashed obscure Zambujeira’s
centre, sparkling beaches Milfonte’s narrow out-of-season charms:
nearby and a laid-back lanes, tiny plazas and fresh fish in family-run
population who couldn’t beach harbour varied restaurants, blustering
imagine living anywhere eating and drinking cliff-top walks and a dra-
else. Milfontes remains options. The town beach matic, empty coast.
much more low-key than is sheltered but can get
most resort towns, except busy; the best strand in 4 p469
in August when it’s the vicinity is fantastic The Drive » Cutting back to
packed to the hilt with Praia do Malhão, backed
surfers and sun-seekers. by rocky dunes and cov- the main road, you then head
It’s located in the middle ered in fragrant scrub, south on the N120. It’s about
of the beautiful Parque around 7km to the north. 25km to Odeceixe through
beautiful coastal woodland.
The Drive » It’s a 30km drive
3 Odeceixe
through protected parkland on
the N393 south to Zambujeira.
Parque 2 Zambujeira Located just as you cross
NdaotuGrauladdoiaVnaale do Mar into the Algarve from the
Alentejo, Odeceixe is an
0¸IC27 São Enchantingly wild endearing whitewashed
Domingos #\ beaches backed by village cascading down
rugged cliffs form the a hill below a picture-
Mertola #\ #\ Moreanes #\setting of this sleepy perfect windmill on the
seaside village. The main southern side of the Ribe-
NadGtuuurVnaadl liPeaandraqouead iana deElmCbhaalnszea street terminates at the ria de Seixe valley. It’s a
cliff; paths lead to the sleepy town, except in
Pomarão #\ SPAIN #\ attractive sands below. summer, when it fills with
El Granado Quieter than Vila Nova, people keen on its nearby
#\ beach. This tongue of
PORTUGAL Alcoutim #\
R#\ibVeairqaudeairoFosupana Foz de LINK
Odeleite Odeleite YOUR
Ribeira de #\ TRIP
Odeleite#\ 301 km to
FGAzinhal #\ 28
Miguel Anes ‚ w Douro Valley s Costa del Sol
(229m) R Vila Real de #\ Vineyard Trails Beyond the
Beaches
Santo António\# Do one trip in reverse:
about four hours north For more stunning coast,
/· #E01 Cacela from Vila Nova de Milfontes head east across the
Velha is a beautiful river valley Spanish border to Seville
# mKPedras 17 producing sensational ports and on to Nerja (423km) or
and reds. Gibraltar (349km).
d'el Rei
16 Tavira
#\#\ Santa
#\ Luzia
#\ Fuzeta
e# 0 20 km 461
0 10 miles
PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches sand is winningly set at a a Moorish feel. A collec- to add to the pictur-
rivermouth and flanked tion of cottages winds esqueness, it also sports
by imposing schist cliffs down the hill below a ru- an offshore pinnacle and
(try saying that with a ined 10th-century hilltop a petite traditional fish-
mouthful of porridge...). castle (h24hr). Aljezur is ing harbour. The beach
It’s a particularly good close to some fantastic is wildly popular with
option for families, as beaches, edged by black surfers of all abilities
smaller children can rocks that reach into the and there are several
paddle on the peaceful white-tipped, bracing surf schools in the area.
river side of the strand sea – surfing hot spots. The beach break is reli-
while older kids tackle The handsomest beach able, but there’s also a
the waves on the ocean in the Aljezur area, on right-hand reef break
side. The beach is 3.5km the north side of the pic- that can offer some of
from Odeceixe itself along turesque rivermouth and the Algarve’s best surf-
a charming country road. backed by wild dunes, ing when there’s a big
At the beach, a small is Praia da Amoreira. swell. There’s a small,
village has eating and It’s 9km by road from very popular beachside
surfing options. The Rota Aljezur, signposted off restaurant, and clifftop
Vicentina, a long-distance the main road north of eateries near the ruined
walking path that leads town. fortress up above, which
right to the southwestern offers breathtaking vis-
tip of Portugal, passes The Drive » A couple of tas. Good diving is also
through Odeceixe, and possible here.
there are great day walks kilometres south of Aljezur,
in the vicinity. the beaches of Monte Clérigo The Drive » Praia de Vale
and Arrifana are signposted off
The Drive » It’s an easy 15km to the right. At the top of the Figueira is reached by a rough
hill, head right (towards Monte road that runs some 5km
down the N120 to Aljezur, through Clérigo) for the full coastal from the main road at a point
woodland and open shrubland panorama before winding your 10km south of Aljezur. Before
patched with heather and gorse. way south to Arrifana. reaching the turnoff, you must
turn right off the N120 on to
TRIP HIGHLIGHT 5 Praia da Arrifana the N268
4 Aljezur Arrifana is a seductive 6 Praia de
fingernail-shaped cove Vale Figueira
The old part of Aljezur is embraced by cliffs. Just
an attractive village with One of the remoter west
coast beaches, this is a
TOP TIP: long, wide and mag-
FAMILY ATTRACTIONS nificent stretch of whitish
sand with an ethereal
This central section of the Algarve coast is great beauty, backed by strati-
for families, with numerous water parks and other fied cliffs hazy in the
attractions in the area. Two of the most popular are ocean spray. It’s reached
Slide & Splash (%282 340 800; www.slidesplash.com; by a rough, partly paved
Estrada Nacional 125; adult/child 5-10yr €26/19; h10am- road. The beach, which
5pm, 6pm or 6.30pm daily May-Sep, Mon-Sat Apr & Oct) and has no facilities, faces
Aqualand (%282 320 230; www.aqualand.pt; N125, Sítio due west and has pretty
das Areias, Alcantarilha; adult/child €22.50/16.50; h10am- reliable surf, especially
6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm late Jun & early Sep). when a southeaster is
blowing. It’s one of those
lonely, romantic beaches
462
that’s great to stroll on TOP TIP: PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches
even when the weather’s THE SAGRES EAT
nasty. SCENE
The Drive » Head back to the A closely packed string of surfer-oriented places on
Rua Comandante Matoso offer a bit of everything,
main road and turn right onto whether it’s a coffee or a caipirinha you’re after: they
it. It’s about 10km from here to are cafes by day, restaurants serving international
Carrapateira. favourites whatever time hunger drags you away
from the beach, and lively bars by night. Further
7 Carrapateira down the same street, near the port, is a cluster of
more traditional Portuguese restaurants.
Surf-central Carra-
pateira is a tranquil, remote peninsula amid observe dolphins and
pretty, spread-out picturesque seaside scen- seabirds. Mar Ilimitado
village offering two ery with a sculpted coast- (%916 832 625; www.marilimi-
fabulous beaches with line and stern fortress tado.com; Porto da Baleeira) is
spectacular settings and (%282 620 140; http://www. a recommended operator.
turquoise seas. Bordeira
is a mammoth swath of monumentosdoalgarve.pt/ 5 4 p469
sand merging into dunes
2km from the north pt/monumentos-do-algarve/ The Drive » Head back to Vila
side of town. Amado,
with even better surf, fortaleza-de-sagres; adult/ do Bispo and turn right onto the
is at the southern end. N125 that will take you to Lagos,
The circuit of both from child €3/1.50; h9.30am- a total drive of 34km. Promising
Carrapateira (9km) is a beach detours include Zavial
visually stunning hike 8pm May-Sep, to 5.30pm and Salema.
(or drive), with lookouts Oct-Apr) giving access to
over the beaches and a stunning clifftop walk. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
rocky coves and cliffs It also appeals for its ac-
between them. In town, cess to fine beaches and 9 Lagos
the Museu do Mar e da water-based activities;
Terra (%282 970 000; Rua it’s especially popular Touristy, likeable Lagos
de Pescador; adult/child with surfers. Outside lies on a riverbank,
€2.70/1.10; h10am-5pm town, the striking cliffs with 16th-century
Tue-Sat) is an intriguing of Cabo de São Vicente walls enclosing the old
place to visit, with great (hlighthouse complex 10am- town’s pretty, cobbled
views. streets and picturesque
6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5pm plazas. A huge range of
The Drive » The N268 barrels Oct-Mar), the southwest- restaurants and pumping
ernmost point of Europe, nightlife add to the allure
on right down to Portugal’s tip at make for an enchanting provided by fabulous
Sagres (22km), via the regional visit, especially at sunset. beaches and numerous
centre of Vila do Bispo. Make sure you pop into watery activities. Aside
the small museum (adult/ from the hedonism,
TRIP HIGHLIGHT child €1.50/1; h10am-6pm there’s plenty of history
here: start by visiting the
8 Sagres Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5pm lovably higgledy-piggledy
Oct-Mar) here, which has Museu Municipal (%282
The small, elongated interesting background 762 301; Rua General Alberto
village of Sagres, with a on the Algarve’s star- da Silveira; adult/concession
rich nautical history, has ring role in the Age of €3/1.50; h10am-12.30pm &
an appealingly out-of- Discoveries. From Sagres’
the-way feel. It sits on a harbour, worthwhile
excursions head out to
463
FERNANDO BUENO / GETTY IMAGES ©
MANFRED GOTTSCHALK / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
ANDY SYMINGTON,
AUTHOR
I can’t think of a more impressive
series of beaches than those of
Portugal’s south; they are simply
magical. There’s a wild and unspoiled
romance to the seasprayed west-
coast strands, while a succession of
sun-baked golden sands in the south
includes intriguing island beaches
only reachable by boat. I love
wandering the region’s tight-knit old
towns too, trying to detect which
lane that delicious aroma of grilling
fish is coming from...
Top: Sagres at sunset
Left: Faro’s cobbled old town
Right: Sunbathers at Praia da Rocha
PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches2-5.30pm Tue-Sun), which
incorporates the fabulous
CHAD EHLERS / GETTY IMAGES © baroque church Igreja de
Santo António (Rua General
Alberto da Silveira; adult/child
incl museum €3/1.50; h10am-
12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun).
Heading out on to the
water is a must, perhaps
cetacean-spotting with
Algarve Dolphins (%282
788 513; www.algarve-
dolphins.com; adult/child from
€35/25), kayaking with
Axessextreme (%919 114
649; www.axessextreme.com;
3hr tour €25) or learning
to surf with Lagos Surf
Center (%282 764 734;
www.lagossurfcenter.com; Rua
da Silva Lopes 31; 1-/3-/5-day
courses €55/150/225). East
of town stretch the long,
golden sands of Meia
Praia, backed by worth-
while beach restaurants.
5 p469
The Drive » Portimão is really
just along the coast from Lagos,
but it’s a 24km detour inland via
the N125 in a car.
a Portimão &
Praia da Rocha
The Algarve’s second-
largest town, Portimão’s
history dates back to the
Phoenicians before it
became the region’s fish-
ing and canning hub in
the 19th century. Though
that industry has since
declined, it’s still an in-
triguing port with plenty
of maritime atmosphere.
Learn all about the
town’s fishing heritage in
the excellent Museu de
Portimão (%282 405 230;
465
PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches www.museudeportimao.pt; tightly woven medieval the city’s history and is
Rua Dom Carlos I; adult/child centre. At the top of the built around a fascinat-
€3/free; h2.30-6pm Tue, town, its sizeable castle ing Moorish-era well,
10am-6pm Wed-Sun Sep-Jul, (%282 445 624; adult/conces- complete with spiral
7.30-11pm Tue, 3-11pm Wed- staircase. The old-town
Sun Aug), before strolling sion/under 10yr €2.80/1.40/ streets are great for
through the no-frills strolling.
sardine restaurants of free, joint ticket with Museu
the fishermen’s quarter The Drive » Cruise 14km
of Largo da Barca near Municipal de Arqueologia
the road bridge. At the straight down the N124-1 to the
southern end of Portimão €3.90; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug, beach at Carvoeiro.
stretches the impressive
resort beach of Praia da to 6.30pm Mar-May & Sep-Nov, c Carvoeiro
Rocha, backed by numer- to 5pm Dec-Feb) offers great
ous restaurants and views from the ramparts. Carvoeiro is a cluster of
nightlife options. Originally occupied in whitewashed buildings
the Visigothic period, rising up from tawny,
The Drive » The N125 leads what you see today dates gold and green cliffs and
mostly from the Moorish backed by hills. This
you east to the junction with the era, though the castle diminutive seaside resort
N124-1, that takes you north to was heavily restored in is prettier and more
Silves. It’s a drive of only 20km. the 20th century. Below laid-back than many of
this, the atmospheric the bigger resorts. The
b Silves cathedral (Rua da Sé; admis- town beach is pretty
sion €1; h9am-12.30pm & but small and crowded,
Silves is one of the however, there are lots
Algarve’s prettiest towns 2-5pm Mon-Fri, plus 9am-1pm of other excellent op-
and replete with history: Sat Jun-Aug) is the region’s tions in the area. The
it was an important best-preserved Gothic most picturesque of
trading city in Moorish church. The Museu all, with stunning rock
times and preserves a Municipal (%282 444 formations, is Praia da
838; Rua das Portas de Loulé; Marinha, best reached by
the Percurso dos Sete
adult/under 10yr €2.10/ Vales Suspensos clifftop
walk, beginning at Praia
free, joint ticket with Castelo Vale Centianes, 2.3km
€3.90; h10am-6pm) gives east of town.
good background on
4 p469
DETOUR: The Drive » Head back
MONCHIQUE
to Lagoa to join the N125
Start: a Portimão & Praia da Rocha eastwards. After 25km, turn
right and head towards the
(p465) coast, emerging atop the long
High above the coast, in cooler mountainous beach. It’s a 37km total drive.
woodlands, the picturesque little town of Monchique
makes a lovely detour, with some excellent options d Praia da Falésia
for day hikes, including climbing the Algarve’s highest
hills, Picota and Fóia, for super views over the coast. This long straight strip
Monchique and the surrounding area have some of sand offers one of the
excellent eating choices and nearby Caldas de region’s most impressive
Monchique is a sweet little spa hamlet in a narrow first glimpses of coast as
wooded valley.
The N266 heads north from the N124 north of
Portimão; it’s a 27km drive from Lagos to Monchique,
then another 30km on to Silves.
466
you arrive from above. LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches
It’s backed by stunning MERCADO MUNICIPAL
cliffs in white and several
shades of ochre, gouged Faro’s impressive modern market building (%289
by weather into intrigu- 897 250; www.mercadomunicipaldefaro.pt; Largo Dr Francisco
ing shapes and topped by Sá Carneiro; hstalls 7am-3pm Mon-Sat; W) makes a
typical pines. The areas great place to wander, to people-watch, to buy fresh
near the car parks get produce, to sit down on a terrace with a coffee, or to
packed in summer (espe- lunch at one of the several worthwhile eateries.
cially as high tides cover
much of the beach), but inside, with beautiful built in the 13th century
as the strip is over 3km panels depicting the life but heavily damaged
long, it’s easy enough to of the Roman-era saint, in the 1755 earthquake.
walk and find plenty of and his death by barbe- What you see now is a
breathing room. It’s a cue. In the 1755 earth- variety of Renaissance,
good beach for strolling, quake, only five tiles fell Gothic and Baroque fea-
as the cliffscape con- from the roof. tures. Climb the tower for
stantly changes colours lovely views across the
and shapes, and there’s a The Drive » Back on the N125, walled town and estuary
surprising range of hardy islands. These islands
seaside plants in the head eastwards and after 12km are part of the Parque
cracks and crevices. you’re in Faro. Natural da Ria Formosa
and can be explored on
The Drive » Head back to the TRIP HIGHLIGHT excellent boat trips run
by Formosamar (%918
N125 and continue eastwards. f Faro 720 002; www.formosamar.
Just after bypassing the town com; Clube Naval, Faro Marina).
of Almancil, there’s an exit to The capital of the The cathedral has a
‘Almancil, São Lourenço, praias’. Algarve has a distinctly small bone chapel, but
The church is signposted from Portuguese feel and much spookier is the one
here. plenty to see. Its evoca- at the Igreja de Nossa
tive waterside old town Senhora do Carmo (Largo
e Igreja de São is very scenic and has do Carmo; chapel €2; h9am-
Lourenço de Matos several interesting sights, 1pm & 3-5pm or 6pm Mon-Fri,
including the excellent 9am-1pm Sat, mass 9am Sun),
It’s worth stopping here Museu Municipal (%289 built from the mortal re-
to visit the marvel- 897 400; Praça Dom Afonso mains of over a thousand
lous interior of this III 14; adult/student €2/1; monks.
small church (Church of h10am-7pm Tue-Fri, 11.30am-
St Lawrence; Rua da Igreja; 6pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, 10am- 5 p469
admission €2; h10am-1pm & 6pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-5pm
3-5pm Mon-Sat), built over a Sat & Sun Oct-May), set in a The Drive » It’s 35km east
ruined chapel after local former convent. The area
people, while digging a is centred around Faro’s along the N125 to Tavira.
well, had implored the cathedral (%289 823 018; Despite the road’s proximity
saint for help and then www.paroquiasedefaro.org; to the coast, you won’t see
struck water. The result- Largo da Sé; adult/child €3/ much unless you turn off:
ing baroque masterpiece, free; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, Fuzeta is a pleasant waterside
built by fraternal master- to 1pm Sat Jun-Aug, to 5pm village to investigate, with boat
team Antão and Manuel Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat Sep-May), connections to island beaches.
Borges, is wall-to-wall
azulejos (painted tiles)
467
MANFRED GOTTSCHALK / GETTY IMAGES ©
PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches
Tavira Saturday street bazaar
g Tavira museum of Moorish h Cacela Velha
history are among the
Set on either side of the attractions. It’s ideal for Enchanting, small and
meandering Río Gilão, wandering; the warren of cobbled, Cacela Velha
Tavira is a charming cobblestone streets hides is a huddle of white-
town. The ruins of a pretty, historic gardens washed cottages edged
hilltop castle (Largo and shady plazas. Tavira with bright borders, and
Abu-Otmane; h8am-5pm is the launching point for has a pocket-sized fort,
Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun, to the stunning, unspoilt orange and olive groves,
5pm winter), now housing beaches of the Ilha de and gardens blazing
a pleasant little botanic Tavira, a sandy island with colour. It sits above
garden, the Renaissance that’s another part of the a gorgeous stretch of
Ria Formosa park. sea, with a character-
Igreja da Misericórdia ful local bar, plus other
(Rua da Galeria; h9am-1pm 4 p469 restaurants, a church
& 2-6pm Mon-Sat), and the The Drive » Cacela Velha and heart-lifting views.
Núcleo Islâmico (Praça From nearby Fábrica,
da República 5; adult/child is 14km east of Tavira: head you can get a boat across
€2/1, joint admission with along the N125 and you’ll see it to the splendid Cacela
Palácio da Galeria €3/1.50; signposted; it’s 1km off the road. Velha beach, which has
h10am-12.30pm & 3-6pm mid- a low-key LGBT scene in
Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-4.30pm summer.
Tue-Sat mid-Sep–mid-Jun)
468
Eating & Sleeping
Zambujeira do Mar 2 secret is out. This buzzing place pulls in the
crowds – locals, tourists and expats – for its
4 Herdade do Touril Rural Inn €€ hearty, top-quality traditional food served in a
bustling environment at great prices. Plates of
(%937 811 627; www.herdadedotouril.pt; r the day are always reliable, as are the fish dishes.
from €90; is) Four kilometres north of
Zambujeira do Mar is this upmarket quinta Carvoeiro c
building with rooms and apartments of the PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches
fluffy-pillow variety. Some are located within 4 O Castelo Guesthouse €€
the original building (built in 1826), others (%919 729 259; www.ocastelo.net; Rua do
are converted farm cottages. The rustic and Casino 59; d without view €65, with view
contemporary design of this tranquil place has €90-110; aW) To the west of the bay, behind
an African safari-lodge feel – without the lions. the turismo, this standout guesthouse with
Instead, storks nest in nearby cliffs (note, this a welcoming and justifiably proud owner is
area is not safe for children). There’s a seawater recently renovated and gleamingly well-
pool, a buffet breakfast and free bikes. Good maintained. Rooms are most inviting; some
taste, good choice. share a large terrace and sea views (with
sunrises), while one has a private balcony. They
Sagres 8 get all the details right; it’s a stunning outlook
5 A Casínha and a lovely, lovely place.
Portuguese €€
(%917 768 917; www.facebook.com/acasinha. Faro f
restaurantesagres; Rua de São Vicente; mains 5 Faz Gostos Portuguese, French €€
€12-18; hdinner Mon, lunch & dinner Tue-Sat) (%289 878 422; www.fazgostos.com; Rua do
Castelo 13; mains €14-20; hlunch & dinner Mon-
This cosy terracotta-and-white spot – built on Fri, dinner Sat; W) Elegantly housed in the old
town, this offers high-class French-influenced
the site of the owner’s grandparents’ house – Portuguese cuisine in a spacious, comfortably
handsome dining area. There’s plenty of game,
serves up some fabulous Portuguese cuisine, fish and meat on offer with rich and seductive
sauces, and a few set menCuaspatiroenCaavpatiiloanbClaep. tionCaption
including standout barbecued fish, a good
Tavira g
variety of cataplanas for two (€34) and arroz de
4 Casa Beleza do Sul Apartment €€
polvo (octopus rice). High quality and a pleasant
(%960 060 906; www.casabelezadosul.com;
atmosphere. Rua Dr Parreira 43; apt €90-120; W) A gorgeous
historic house in central Tavira is showcased
4 Pousada Luxury Hotel €€€ to full advantage in this beautiful conversion.
The result is a cute studio and three marvellous
do Infante suites of rooms, all different with original
tiled floors and modern bathrooms. All have a
(%218 442 001, 282 620 240; www.pousadas. kitchenette and there are numerous decorative
and thoughtful touches that put this well above
pt; Rua Patrão António Faustino; s/d €215/225, the ordinary. Minimum stays apply. Breakfast
available for an extra charge.
superior €260/270; paiWs) This
modern pousada has large rooms in a great
setting near the clifftop. Count on green or
orange interiors, handsome public areas and
picture-perfect views from the terraces. A well
priced, quality pick.
Lagos 9
5 A Forja Portuguese €€
(%282 768 588; Rua dos Ferreiros 17; mains
€8-15; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-10pm Sun-Fri) The
469
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
NEED TO Climate
KNOW
Warm to hot summers,
CURRENCY mild winters
Euro (€) # GThOeMDaoyu–rSoep
LANGUAGE The Beiras
GO Jun & Sep #
Portuguese
Lisbon # The Alentejo
VISAS GO May & Jun # GO May–Sep
Generally not required for The Algarve
stays of up to 90 days (not GO Jun & Sep #
at all for members of EU
or Schengen countries). When to Go
Some nationalities need a High Season (Jul & Aug)
Schengen visa. »»Accommodation prices increase 30%.
»»Expect big crowds in the Algarve and coastal resort areas.
FUEL »»Sweltering temperatures are commonplace.
»»Warmer ocean temperatures.
Petrol stations (usually
open 24 hours) can be Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep–Nov)
found along major highways. »»Wildflowers and mild days are ideal for hikes and outdoor
Expect to pay €1.35 to €1.80
per litre. activities.
RENTAL CARS »»Lively festivals take place in June.
»»Crowds and prices are average.
Auto Jardim (www. »»Colder ocean temperatures.
autojardim.com)
Low Season (Dec–Mar)
Hertz (www.hertz.com) »»Shorter, rainier days with freezing temperatures at higher
Holiday Autos (www.
holidayautos.com) elevations.
Pepecar (www.pepecar.com) »»Lower prices, fewer crowds.
»»Attractions keep shorter hours.
IMPORTANT NUMBERS »»Frigid ocean temperatures.
Europe-wide emergencies
(%112)
International access code
(%00)
Country code (%351)
470
Daily Costs Sleeping Taxis €10–€14; around 20
Budget: Less than €50 minutes to the centre.
»»Dorm bed: €15–22 Casa no Campo Comfy
»»Basic hotel room for two: village houses or farmhouses for Mobile Phones (Cell
hire in the countryside. Phones)
from €30
Pousadas State funded Local SIM cards are widely
»»Lunch special at a family-run accommodation, often in castles, available and can be used
converted monasteries and old in European and Australian
restaurant: €7–9 mansions. mobile phones. Not compatible
with many North American or
»»Second-class train ticket from Pensão Inexpensive, extremely Japanese systems.
basic guesthouses, often with
Lisbon to Faro: from €22 shared bathrooms. Internet Access
Midrange: €50–120 Price categories refer to a double Wi-fi is available in most lodgings
»»Double room in a midrange room with bathroom in high and cafes (and is usually free).
season. Unless otherwise stated, Internet cafes are rare.
hotel: €50–100 breakfast is included in the price:
Money
»»Lunch and dinner in a € less than €60
ATMs widely available, except
midrange restaurant: €22–35 €€ €60–120 in the smallest villages. Credit
cards accepted in midrange and
»»Admission to museums: €2–6 €€€ more than €120 high-end establishments.
Top End: More than Arriving in Portugal Tipping
€120 Aeroporto de Lisboa
»»Boutique hotel room: from (Lisbon) Menu prices indicate a service
charge. Most people leave small
€120 Rental cars There is a wide change if satisfied: 5% is fine,
choice of car-hire companies at 10% is considered generous.
»»Dinner for two in a top the airport.
Useful Websites
restaurant: from €80 Metro €1.90 (including €0.50
Viva Viagem card); red line from Lonely Planet (www.
»»Three-day surf course: €150 Aeroporto station; transfer at lonelyplanet.com) Destination
Alameda for blue line to Rossio information, articles, hotel
Eating and Baixa-Chiado. It’s 20 bookings, traveller forums and
minutes to the centre; frequent more.
Tapas Bar Tapas and drinks; departures from 6.30am to 1am. Portugal Tourism (www.
open longer hours than visitportugal.com) Portugal’s
restaurants. AeroBus €3.50; every 20 useful and official tourism
Pasteleria Bakery; good for minutes from 7.45am to 8.15pm. authority.
pastries and coffee. RAC (www.rac.co.uk/
Vinoteca Wine bar where you Taxis €12–€16; around 20 drivingabroad) Information
order by the glass. minutes to the centre. for British drivers on driving in
Cervejaria Beerhall; the place Spain and Portugal.
to go for snacks and draft beer Aeroporto de Faro (Faro)
(cerveja).
Price categories indicate the Rental cars Car-rental
cost of a main course: agencies have desks in the
airport.
€ less than €10
Buses €1.60; every 30 minutes
€€ €10–20 weekdays, every two hours
weekends.
€€€ more than €20
471
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Language
Portuguese pronunciation is not difficult because most sounds are also found in English.
The exceptions are the nasal vowels (represented in our pronunciation guides by ng after the
vowel), which are pronounced as if you’re trying to make the sound through your nose; and
the strongly rolled r (represented by rr in our pronunciation guides). Also note that the sym-
bol zh sounds like the ‘s’ in ‘pleasure’. The stress generally falls on the second-last syllable of
a word. In our pronunciation guides stressed syllables are indicated with italics.
PORTUGUESE BASICS EMERGENCIES
Hello. Olá. o·laa Help! Socorro! soo·ko·rroo
Goodbye. Adeus. a·de·oosh I’m lost. shtoh per·dee·doo
Estou perdido. (m) shtoh per·dee·da
How are you? Como está? ko·moo shtaa Estou perdida. (f)
Fine, and you? Bem, e você? beng e vo·se
Excuse me. Faz favor. faash fa·vor ON THE ROAD
Sorry. Desculpe. desh·kool·pe Queria ke·ree·a
Yes. Sim. seeng I’d like to alugar … a·loo·gaar …
hire a …
No. Não. nowng
bicycle uma oo·ma
Please. Por favor. poor fa·vor bicicleta bee·see·kle·ta
Thank you. Obrigado. (m) o·bree·gaa·doo car um carro oong kaa·rroo
Obrigada. (f) o·bree·gaa·da
motorcycle uma mota oo·ma mo·ta
You’re
welcome. De nada. de naa·da child seat cadeira de ka·day·ra de
criança kree·ang·sa
What’s your name? helmet capacete ka·pa·se·te
Qual é o seu nome? kwaal e oo se·oo no·me mechanic mecânico me·kaa·nee·koo
petrol/gas gasolina ga·zoo·lee·na
My name is … oo me·oo no·me e … service posto de posh·too de
O meu nome é … station gasolina ga·zoo·lee·na
Do you speak English?
Fala inglês? faa·la eeng·glesh
I don’t understand. nowng eng·teng·doo
Não entendo.
DIRECTIONS Want More?
Where’s (the station)? For in-depth language information and
Onde é (a estação)? ong·de e (a shta·sowng) handy phrases, check out Lonely Plan-
et’s Portuguese Phrasebook. You’ll find
Can you show me (on the map)? them at shop.lonelyplanet.com.
Pode-me mostrar po·de·me moosh·traar
(no mapa)? (noo maa·pa)
472
windscreen petrol
pára-brisa m gasolina f
pa·ra·bree·za ga·so·lee·na
battery tyre
bateria f pneu m
ba·te·ree·a pe·ne·oo
engine
motor m
moo·tor
headlight
faróis da frente m
fa·roysh·da·freng·te
How much for daily hire? The car/motorbike has broken down
Quanto custa para kwang·too koosh·ta pa ra
alugar por dia? a·loo·gaar poor dee·a (at …). oo kaa·rroo/a mo·ta
O carro/A mota
avariou-se (em …). a·va·ree·oh·se (eng …)
How much for weekly hire?
Quanto custa para kwang·too koosh·ta pa ra I have a flat tyre.
alugar por semana? a·loo·gaar poor se·ma·na Tenho um furo no ta·nyoo oong foo·roo noo
pneu. pe·ne·oo
Do you have a road map?
Tem um mapa de teng oong maa·pa de
estradas? shtraa·dash I’ve run out of petrol.
Estou sem gasolina. shtoh seng ga·zoo·lee·na
Is this the road to …? I need a mechanic.
Esta é a estrada esh·ta e a shtraa·da Preciso de um pre·see·zoo de oong
para …? pa·ra …
mecânico. me·kaa·nee·koo
(How long) Can I park here? Can you fix it (today)?
(Quanto tempo) (kwang·too teng·poo)
Posso estacionar po·soo shta·see·oo·naar Pode-se arranjar po·de·se a·rrang·zhaar
(hoje)? (o·zhe)
aqui? a·kee
How long will it take?
What’s the speed limit? Quanto tempo vai kwang·too teng·poo vai
Qual é o limite de kwaal e oo lee·mee·te de
velocidade? ve·loo·see·daa·de levar? e·vaar
Signs
Pare Stop
Dar Prioridade Give Way
Proibido el Paso No Entry
Entrada Entrance
Portagem Toll
Sentido Unico One Way
Sair da Autoestrada Freeway Exit
473
Germany
GRANDIOSE CITIES, STORYBOOK
VILLAGES, VINE-STITCHED VALLEYS
AND BUCOLIC LANDSCAPES that beg
you to toot your horn, leap out of the car
and jump for joy – road-tripping in Germany
is a mesmerising kaleidoscope of brilliant
landscapes and experiences.
The trips in this section take you for a spin
from Germany’s edgy cities to fabled Rhine
vineyards and the medieval walled towns of
Bavaria. Whether you want to cruise past
castles, sample wine or climb into the foothills
of the Alps, we have something for you.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber Traditional half-timbered buildings
CANADASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
DENMARK SWEDEN
Odense Malmö ]#
#]
Germany ]#
Flensburg Prerow #\ Binz
Kiel
#\
#]
Kühlungsborn #\ Warnemünde
#\ ]# Rostock
Norddeich Bremerhaven #]
#\ ]#
#] Szczecin
Wilmhelmshaven POLAND
Groningen GF#] Elbe
]# Oldenburg
Weser 36
NETHERLANDS Main#] OsnabruckBraunschweig Potsdam #]
]# Ems Rhin ]# Magdeburg
]#
Arnhem Enschede #] #] Halle
#] ]# Bielefeld Hildesheim ]#
Nederrijn Münster R Brocken
(1141m)
Göttingen
]# Gelsenkirchen ]#
#] Krefeld ]# Kassel Radeburg#\
Maas GF34 GERMANY Erfurt Bad
Schandau \#
]#Aachen #] #^ Gera #] Chemnitz
Bonn
]#Würzburg ]#
]#
FG36 Zwickau
BELGIUM R #] Koblenz Elbe
Hohe Acht
(747m)
LUXEMBOURMGoselle Wiesbaden Vitava
e #]#] Mainz CZECH REPUBLIC
]# Trier Darmstadt #] ]# Plzeň
Metz Kaiserslautern Mannheim Nuremberg Vitava
#] ]# Heidelberg Donau (Danube)
#] #] ]#
]# Karlsruhe ]# Salzburg
Saarbrücken GF #]
]# 35 Regensberg
Rhin (Rhein)]# Donau (Danube#]) Augsburg #] Linz
FRANCE Strasbourg
Freiburg
#]
Rhe Zugspitze
in (2963m)
R AUSTRIA
Be#]sançDoonubs Zürich #] ]#
Bern LIECHTENSTEIN Innsbruck RG(3r7o9s8smgl)ockner
Rhein
#] Drau
SWITZERLAND
476 #] Lausanne ITALY SLOVENIA
© BAYERISCHE SCHLÖSSERVERWALTUNG, WWW.SCHLOESSER.BAYERN.DE; DON'T
IMAGE BY: TAKASHI IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK © MISS
Cologne
The star of the region,
Cologne makes its
statement from the
moment you spot
the twin spires of the
legendary Dom. See it
on Trip y
Würzburg Residenz Wine Tasting
y Romantic Rhine 5–7 Days Learn to love Germany’s
Fall under the spell of the castle-lined riverscape often excellent white
along the world-famous Rhine. (p479) wines. Sip exquisite
vintages at the source in
z The Romantic Road 10 Days cosy wineries amid the
A ribbon of historical quaintness running through
Bavaria’s western reaches. (p491) yvineyards on Trip
{ German Fairy Tale Road 5 Days Würzburg Residenz
Learn the fantasies and the horrors in the stories
of the Brothers Grimm. (p505) Ogle the world’s largest
fresco at Würzburg’s
magnificent Unesco-
listed palace. Get your
zticket as part of Trip
Neuschwanstein
Castle
The world’s most
famous castle inspired
Walt Disney’s citadel
and strikes a fairytale
pose against Alpine
forests. Book your tour
on Trip z
477
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
a
b
c
d
e
5489
8489
c489
d489
e489
BRIGITTE MERZ / GETTY IMAGES ©
34Romantic Rhine
After traversing powerhouse riverside cities Düsseldorf, Cologne
and Bonn, watch epic scenery unfold as Germany’s Romantic Rhine
valley carves between towering cliffs clad in forest and capped by
castles, to delightful Mainz.
lLTRIP HIGHLIGHTS 198 km 5–7 DAYS
# Düsseldorf Rüdesheim 235 KM / 146 MILES
# Cologne Escape the crowds by
hiking into the GREAT FOR…
picturesque vineyards
HB
Koblenz # mK##14 BEST TIME TO GO
##7 April to October offers
the best weather, but
Loreley # July and August can
be crowded.
#1#3
I ESSENTIAL
Boppard Mainz PHOTO
One of the Romantic Home to rustic wine
Rhine’s prettiest towns taverns and a Boat-shaped toll castle
155 km magnificent cathedral Pfalzgrafstein on a
235 km Rhine island.
K BEST FOR
OUTDOORS
Hike through the vines
above Rüdesheim.
Bacharach St Peter’s Church 479
lLKrefeld Ruh r
#] \# Velbert
#Düsseldorf #]
^#1
34 Romantic Rhine ·/A3
Boats gliding down the Rhine give passengers #]
mesmerising views of the medieval villages, craggy
hillsides, and castle after castle floating past. But /·A57 Solingen
on this trip you’ll get up close to its mightiest sights,
hike through its loftiest vineyards and discover \# ]#
hidden treasures and romantic hideaways you’d never
see from the water. (Though you’ll have plenty of Grevenbroich Leverkusen
opportunities en route to board a cruise, too.)
Pulheim #\
I#/· #A61 Cologne #^2
p522
#\ Brühl #\ Rhein
Sieg
Kerpen
¸0Troisdorf #\
A555
Euskirchen # /·Bonn ]#3 B42
\# ·/B9
NaHtuorhpeasrk 0¸ ##\4
Venn-Eifel
B257
R
Ho(7h4e7mAc)ht
1 Düsseldorf Altstadt (old town), which Neustadt
claims to be the ‘longest \#
Survey the mighty Rhine bar in the world’. /·A1
from Düsseldorf’s Medien-
hafen. This old harbour The Drive » It’s a 44km Moselle
area continues to attract
red-hot restaurants, drive from Düsseldorf south via #]
bars, hotels and clubs. the B1 and the A57 to Cologne
Crumbling warehouses (fear not: although this section Trier
have transformed into mainly travels through built-up
high-tech office buildings areas and industrial estates,
and now rub shoulders later stages of the drive become
with bold new structures much more scenic).
designed by celebrated
international architects, 2 Cologne
including Frank Gehry.
A walking tour (see
Of course, no visit to p522) is the best way to #\
Düsseldorf is complete appreciate this engaging
without exploring its city (Germany’s fourth-\#
largest) on the Rhine.
480
Ruhr Ruhr #\#6 Braubach Must-sees include
Cologne’s world-famous
\# # /·7\# f#\# Is\#erFloiBlsh42enn 0 \# Arnsberg 5 km Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathe-
0 2.5 miles dral; %0211-1794 0200; www.
Hagen Boppard koelner-dom.de; tower adult/
\# concession €4/2; h6am-9pm
May-Oct, to 7.30pm Nov-Apr,
]# Wuppertal tower 9am-6pm May-Sep, to
5pm Mar-Apr & Oct, to 4pm Nov-
/·#\ LudenscheiBd9 Feb), whose twin spires
dominate the skyline, as
/·B42 well as superb museums
Rhein such as the Römisch-
geBig St Goarshausen
#St Goar Lahn#\ Germanisches Museum
(Roman Germanic Museum;
8\# #f %0221-2212 4438; www.
·/ H# /·A61 #\ Olpe p483 B42 museenkoeln.de; Roncalliplatz GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine
Gummersbach #\ 4; adult/concession €9/5;
##Lorelei Sculpture 10 \#9 Loreley h10am-5pm Tue-Sun); sculp-
·/A4 ·/#\ KreuzBt9al tures and ruins displayed
outside its entrance are
·/#\ the overture to its sym-
phony of Roman artefacts
Oberwesel B42 found along the Rhine.
#f Kaub The Drive » Drive south
B9 1\#1
·/##\ Siegen along the B51 along the Rhine’s
western bank before joining the
#\ Sieg #Bacharach 1\#2 A555 to bring you into Bonn
(29km all-up).
##\4 Remagen
/·B9
Neuwied
\#
#]#5 Koblenz Limburg \#
/·A48 /·B42 ·/B42
Braubach
\# See #\
Enlargement
Boppard \# #\ Filsen
St Goarshausen LINK
YOUR
St Goar \##\ ^#
Oberwesel \#\# Loreley
Kaub Wiesbaden
Bacharach \# TRIP
#\ ]#
·/ #Rüdesheim ¸0#A643 Main
0¸B327 B9 13 1]#4 { German Fairy Tale
Mainz Road
/·E50 Bing#\e#fn#\ ‚
mK 42 km Get on the trail of the
to Bro#]thers Grimm 65km west
FG36 of Mainz in Hanau.
Bad 120 km to
Kreuznach #\ z The Romantic
GF35 Road
Nahe
This ribbon of historical
\# Idar- ·/A63 quaintness starts at
Oberstein Würzburg, two hours
(154km) west from Mainz.
e# Rhein
0 40 km
0 20 miles
Kaiserslautern /·A6 Ludwigshafen #]
am Rhein
]# 481
GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine 3 Bonn CROSSING THE RHINE
In a beautiful river- No bridges span the Rhine between Koblenz and
side setting, Ludwig Mainz; the only way to cross the river along this
van Beethoven’s home stretch is by Autofähre (car ferry). Prices vary
town warrants a stop slightly but you can figure on paying about €4.20 per
to visit the Beethoven- car, including driver; €1.20 per car passenger; €1.30
Haus Bonn (%0228-981 per pedestrian (€0.80 for a child); and €2.50 for a
7525; www.beethoven-haus- bicycle, including the rider.
bonn.de; Bonngasse 24-26;
adult/concession €6/4.50; Bingen–Rüdesheimer (www.bingen-ruedesheimer.com;
h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am- h5.30am-9.45pm Sun-Thu & 5.30am-12.50am Fri & Sat May-
5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun Oct, 5.30am-9.45pm Nov-Apr)
Nov-Mar), where the great
composer was born in Boppard–Filsen (www.faehre-boppard.de; h6.30am-
1770. Other landmarks 10pm Jun-Aug, 6.30am-9pm Apr, May & Sep, 6.30am-8pm
include the soaring Mün- Oct-Mar)
ster Basilica (%0228-985
880; www.bonner-muenster.de; Niederheimbach–Lorch (www.mittelrhein-faehre.de;
Münsterplatz; h7am-7pm), h6am-7.50pm Apr-Oct, 6am-6.50pm Nov-Mar)
built on the graves of the
two martyred Roman sol- Oberwesel–Kaub (www.faehre-kaub.de; h6am-8pm
diers who later became Mon-Sat & 8am-8pm Sun Apr-Sep, 6am-7pm Mon-Sat & 8am-
the city’s patron saints. 7pm Sun Oct-Mar)
Bonn’s old government St Goar–St Goarshausen (www.faehre-loreley.de;
quarter dates from its time h5.30am-midnight Mon-Sat, 6.30am-midnight Sun)
as West Germany’s ‘tempo-
rary’ capital, between 1949 4 Remagen towers now houses the
and 1991 (when a reunited Friedensmuseum (Peace
German government de- Remagen was founded by Museum; %218 63; www.
cided to move to Berlin). the Romans in AD 16 as bruecke-remagen.de; adult/child
For a romp through recent Rigomagus, but the town €3.50/1; h10am-5pm early
German history from would hardly figure in the Mar-mid-Nov, to 6pm May-Oct),
the end of WWII, pop by history books were it not with a well-presented ex-
the Haus der Geschichte for one fateful day in early hibit on Remagen’s pivotal
March 1945. As the Allies role in WWII.
der Bundesrepublik raced across France and
Deutschland (Museum of Belgium to rid Germany The Drive » Take the B9
History; %0228-916 50; www. of Nazism, the Wehrmacht
hdg.de; Willy-Brandt-Allee 14; tried frantically to stave southeast for 49km. The Rhine
h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm off defeat by destroying all winds back and forth away from
Sat & Sun). bridges across the Rhine. the road until you come to the
city of Koblenz. Stay on the B9
The Drive » From Bonn, take But the Brücke von until you’ve crossed the Moselle
Remagen (the steel rail River to the town centre, or
the B9 southeast for 24km to bridge at Remagen) lasted risk getting lost in a maze of
Remagen. When you leave the long enough for Allied concentric flyovers.
German state of North Rhine- troops to cross the river,
Westphalia and enter Rhineland- contributing significantly 5 Koblenz
Palatinate the road returns to to the collapse of Hitler’s
the river’s western bank; on western front. One of the Koblenz sits at the conflu-
your right-hand side, you’ll see bridge’s surviving basalt ence of the Rhine and
the hilly wildlife park Wildpark Moselle Rivers – marked by
Rolandseck. the expansive Deutsches
482
Eck (German Corner), ad- sible by car, on foot and 6 Braubach GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine
joining flower-filled parks by cable car.
and promenades – and Framed by forest, vine-
the convergence of three Inside Koblenz’ strik- yards and rose gardens,
low mountain ranges (the ing new glass Forum the 1300-year-old town
Hunsrück, the Eifel and Confluentes, exhibits at of Braubach centres on
the Westerwald). Its roots the Mittelrhein-Museum its small, half-timbered
date back to the Romans, (www.mittelrhein-museum. Marktplatz.
who founded a military de; Zentralplatz 1; adult/child
stronghold (Confluentes) €10/7; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) High above Braubach
here because of the site’s span 2000 years of the are the dramatic towers,
supreme strategic value. region’s history, including turrets and crenellations
19th-century landscape of the 700-year-old
On the Rhine’s paintings of the Romantic Marksburg (www.marksburg.
right bank, the 118m- Rhine by German and de; adult/child €64; h10am-
high fortress Festung British artists.
Ehrenbreitstein (www. 5pm mid-Mar–Oct, 11am-4pm
diefestungehrenbreitstein.de; 4 p489 Nov–mid-Mar), which is
unique among the Rhine’s
adult/child €6/3, incl cable car The Drive » Take the B49 fastnesses as it was never
destroyed. The compul-
€11.80/5.60; h10am-6pm across the Rhine to its eastern sory tour takes in the
bank and travel south on the citadel, the Gothic hall
Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) B42; it’s 13km to Braubach. At and a grisly torture cham-
proved indestructible to this point of the drive, you leave ber. English tours depart
all but Napoleonic troops, the cityscapes behind and enter at 1pm and 4pm from late
who levelled it in 1801. an older world of cobblestones, March to October.
To prove a point, the half-timbered villages, densely
Prussians rebuilt it as forested hillsides and ancient
one of Europe’s mightiest vineyards.
fortifications. It’s acces-
DETOUR:
OBERWESEL
Start: 8 St Goar (p486)
It’s a quick 7.8km south from St Goar along the B9 to the village of Oberwesel.
Every April, Oberwesel crowns not a Weinkönigin (wine queen), as in most
Rhine towns, but a Weinhexe (wine witch) – a good witch, of course – who is said
to protect the vineyards. Photos of all the Weinhexen crowned since 1946 are
displayed in the cellar of Oberwesel’s Kulturhaus (www.kulturhaus-oberwesel.de;
Rathausstrasse 23; adult/child €3/1; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 2-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct), along with
19th-century engravings of the Romantic Rhine and models of Rhine riverboats.
Hidden sky-high up a vineyard-striped hillside, the flagstone terrace of
Günderode Haus (www.guenderodefilmhaus.de; Siebenjungfrauenblick; h11am-6pm Sat-
Thu, to 8pm Fri Apr-Oct, reduced hours Nov-Mar) is an incredible spot for a glass of wine,
beer or brandy, with sweeping views over the Rhine. The adjacent 200-year-old
half-timbered house was used as a film set for Heimat 3 (2004), and now has a
cinema room and hosts live music and literary events, as well as wine tastings. From
Oberwesel, take the K93 east for 600m, turn right (north) onto the K95; after 1km,
the car park’s on your right.
483
WESTEND61 / GETTY IMAGES ©
LORELEI STATUE BY NATASCHA ALEXANDROVA / DEA / W. BUSS / CONTRIBUTOR/ GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
CATHERINE LE
NEVEZ, AUTHOR
The romance along this stretch of
the Rhine is timeless. Poets and
painters including Lord Byron and
William Turner are among those
who have been inspired by this
castle-crowned, forest-and-vineyard-
cloaked valley. A fabled stop on the
original European Grand Tour, the
riverscape here is now a designated
Unesco World Heritage site. It
doesn’t get more classic than that.
Top: The Rhine and the town of Boppard on the bend
Left: Natascha Alexandrova’s Lorelei sculpture
Right: Cologne’s Kölner Dom illuminated at dusk
GERMANY 34 Romantic RhineThe Drive » Hug the eastern
ALLAN BAXTER / GETTY IMAGES © bank of the Rhine for 11km as it
curves around to the car-ferry
dock at Filsen. It’s a five-minute
crossing to charming Boppard.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
7 Boppard
Idyllically located on a
horseshoe bend in the
river, Boppard (pro-
nounced ‘bo-part’) is one
of the Romantic Rhine’s
prettiest towns, not least
because its riverfront and
historic centre are both
on the same side of the
railway tracks.
Boppard’s riverfront
promenade, the Rhein-
allee, has grassy areas for
picnicking and a children’s
playground.
Many of the town’s
half-timbered buildings
house cosy wine taverns,
including its oldest,
Weinhaus Heilig Grab
(www.heiliggrab.de; Zelkesgasse
12; h3pm-midnight Wed-Mon).
In summer you can sip
local rieslings under the
chestnut trees, where live
music plays on weekends.
Fantastic hiking trails
fan out into the coun-
tryside, including the
Hunsrück Trails, accessed
by Germany’s steepest
scheduled railway route,
the Hunsrückbahn (adult/
child one-way €2.90/1.75;
hhourly 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, to
4pm Nov-Mar). Around the
Vierseenblick (Four-Lakes-
View), a panoramic outlook
reached by Sesselbahn
(chair lift; http://sesselbahn-
boppard.de; adult/child return
€7.50/4.50, one-way €4.80/3;
h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) creates
485
GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine the illusion that you’re CAT & MOUSE
looking at four separate
lakes rather than a single Two rival castles stand either side of the village of
river. St Goarshausen. Burg Peterseck was built by the
archbishop of Trier to counter the toll practices
The Drive » Take the B9 of the powerful Katzenelnbogen family. The latter
responded by building a much bigger castle high on
south from Boppard for 15km, the other side of town, Burg Neukatzenelnbogen,
passing Burg Maus across the which was dubbed Burg Katz, meaning ‘Cat Castle’.
river on the eastern bank near Highlighting the obvious imbalance of power
the village of Wellmich. Shortly between the Katzenelnbogens and the archbishop,
afterwards, you’ll spot Burg Burg Peterseck was soon nicknamed Burg Maus
Rheinfels on the western bank (Mouse Castle). Both are closed to the public.
above St Goar.
9 Loreley of the Loreley outcrop
8 St Goar 190m above the river.
The most storied spot
Lording over the vil- along the Romantic Rhine, The Drive » Return to the
lage of St Goar are the Loreley is an enormous,
sprawling ruins of Burg almost vertical slab of B42 at the bottom of the hill; on
Rheinfels (www.st-goar. slate that owes its fame to your left, you’ll see Burg Katz.
de; adult/child €5/2.50; a mythical maiden whose Travel south for 2km to the car
h9am-6pm mid-Mar–late Oct, siren songs are said to park by the breakwater for the
11am-5pm late Oct–mid-Nov), have lured sailors to their next stop, the Lorelei Sculpture.
at one time the mightiest death in the river’s treach-
fortress on the Rhine. erous currents. Heinrich a Lorelei Sculpture
Built in 1245 by Count Heine told the tale in his
Dieter von Katzeneln- 1824 poem Die Lorelei. At the tip of a narrow
bogen as a base for his breakwater jutting into
toll-collecting operations, On the edge of the the Rhine, a bronze
its size and labyrinthine plateau 4km southeast sculpture of Loreley’s
layout are astonishing. of the village of St Goar- famous maiden perches
Kids (and adults) will shausen, visitor centre lasciviously atop a rocky
love exploring the sub- platform. From the
terranean tunnels and Loreley Besucherzen- car park, you can walk
galleries (bring a torch). trum (%06771-599 093; the 600m out to the
From St Goar’s northern www.loreley-besucherzentrum. sculpture, from where
edge, follow the Schloss- de; Loreleyring 7; adult/ there are fantastic views
berg road to the castle. child €2.50/1.50, parking of both riverbanks, but
€2; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, be aware that the rough
5 4 p489 10am-5pm Mar, 11am-4pm Sat path is made from jag-
The Drive » At St Goar, & Sun Nov-Feb) covers the ged slate (wear sturdy
Loreley myth and local shoes!) and the gentler
take the five-minute car ferry flora, fauna, shipping and sandy lower path is often
across to the little village of winemaking traditions. underwater.
St Goarshausen. From St A 300m gravel path leads
Goarshausen’s Marktplatz, follow to a viewpoint at the tip The Drive » Leaving the car
the L338 as it twists steeply
uphill through thick forest for park, take the B42 south for
1.2km and turn right onto the 8km to the little village of Kaub,
K89 for 2.5km to reach Loreley. and park next to the ferry dock.
486
b Kaub toll. The island makes for arched gateways under GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine
a fabulous picnic spot. the train tracks and you’ll
Kaub is the gateway to find yourself in a medieval
one of the river’s iconic Alongside Kaub’s car old town filled with half-
sights. Like something out ferry dock you can hop on timbered mansions.
of a fairy tale, 1326-built, a little Fährboot (propelled
boat-shaped toll castle boat; adult/child €2.50/1; It’s possible to walk
Pfalzgrafstein (www.burg- hevery 30min 10am-6pm almost all the way around
pfalzgrafenstein.de; adult/child Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Mar, the centre on top of the
10am-5pm Sat & Sun Nov, Jan walls. The lookout tower
€3/2; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun & Feb, closed Dec) passenger on the upper section of the
ferry (it only runs from wall affords panoramic
Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Mar, 10am- this side of the river). views.
5pm Sat & Sun Nov, Jan & Feb, The Drive » From Kaub, Dating from 1421,
closed Dec), with distinctive
white-painted walls, red take the car ferry across to the Zum Grünen Baum
trim, and slate turrets, Rhine’s western bank and head (www.weingut-bastian-
perches on a narrow south on the B9 for 3km to bacharach.de; Oberstrasse
island in the middle of the Bacharach. 63; hnoon-midnight Apr-Oct,
Rhine. A once-dangerous reduced hours Nov-Mar)
rapid here (since modi- c Bacharach serves some of Bacha-
fied) forced boats to use rach’s best whites in
the right-hand side of the Tiny Bacharach conceals rustic surrounds. Its
river, where a chain forced its considerable charms nearby Vinothèque (www.
ships to stop and pay a behind a 14th-century weingut-bastian-bacharach.de/
wall. Enter one of the thick vinothek; Koblenzer Strasse 1;
CRUISING THE RHINE
If you’d like to let someone else drive for a while and get a different perspective of
the Rhine, it’s easy to park up and hop on a cruise boat.
From about Easter to October (winter services are very limited), passenger ships
run by KD (Köln-Düsseldorfer; %0221-208 8318; www.k-d.com) link Rhine villages on a set
timetable:
»»You can travel to the next village or all the way between Mainz and Koblenz (one-
way/return €50/55, downstream Mainz to Koblenz/upstream Koblenz to Mainz
5½/eight hours).
»»Within the segment you’ve paid for (for example, Boppard–Rüdesheim, which
costs €25.40/26.80 one-way/return), you can get on and off as often as you like,
but make sure to ask for a free stopover ticket each time you disembark.
»»Children up to the age of four travel free, while those up to age 13 are charged a
flat fee of €6 regardless of distance.
»»Return tickets usually cost only slightly more than one-way.
»»To bring along a bicycle, there’s a supplement of €2.80.
Several smaller companies also send passenger boats up and down the river:
Bingen-Rüdesheimer (www.bingen-ruedesheimer.com)
Hebel Linie (www.hebel-linie.de)
Loreley Linie (www.loreley-linie.com)
Rössler Linie (www.roesslerlinie.de)
487
GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine h3-5pm Mon-Fri & 11am-6pm Prussian victory in the or vine-draped Weingut
Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 3-5pm Mon- Franco-Prussian War and Michel (www.michel-wein.de;
Fri Nov-Mar), by contrast, the creation of the Ger- Jakobsbergstrasse 8; h4pm-
is state of the art. Owner man Reich, both in 1871. midnight), Mainz’ only Wein-
Friedrich Bastian is a To save climbing 203 ver- gut (winery) to exclusively
renowned opera singer, tical metres, glide above serve its own wines.
so music (and culinary) the vineyards aboard the
events take place year- 1400m-long Seilbahn Highlights you won’t
round, including on Bas- (Kabinenbahn; www.seilbahn- want to miss include the
tian’s private river island ruedesheim.de; Oberstrasse 37; fabulous Mainzer Dom
with its own vineyard. adult/child one-way €5/2.50, (%06131-253 412; www.
return €7/3.50, with Sesselbahn mainz-dom.de; Markt 10;
4 p489 €8/4; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, h9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm
The Drive » Head south to 6pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, Sat, 12.45-3pm & 4-6.30pm
10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sun, shorter hours Nov-Feb),
on the B9, passing Burg Sat & Sun Apr & Oct) cable the ethereal windows of
Reichenstein, then Burg car. A network of hiking Chagall in St-Stephan-
Rheinstein, on your right. Then, trails extends from the Kirche (www.st-stephan-mainz.
on your left, in the river itself, monument. de; Kleine Weissgasse 12;
you’ll pass the Mäuseturm, a h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-
fortified tower used as a signal 4 p489 5pm Sun Mar-Oct, 10am-4.30pm
station until 1974. Drive through Mon-Sat, noon-4.30pm Sun Nov-
the busy working town of Bingen The Drive » From Rüdesheim, Feb), and the first printed
to the car-ferry dock at its Bible in the Gutenberg-
eastern edge, and cross the river head east on the B42 for 23km Museum Mainz (www.
to Rüdesheim. and turn south on the A643 to gutenberg-museum.de; Lieb-
cross the bridge over the Rhine. frauenplatz 5; adult/child €5/2;
TRIP HIGHLIGHT From here it’s 13km southeast to h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-5pm
the centre of Mainz. Sun). This museum com-
d Rüdesheim memorates native son
TRIP HIGHLIGHT Johannes Gutenberg who
Depending on how you ushered in the informa-
look at it, Rüdesheim’s e Mainz tion age here in the 15th
town centre – and especial- century by perfecting
ly its most famous feature, The Rhine River meets movable type.
the tunnel-like medieval the Main at lively Mainz,
alley Drosselgasse – is which has a sizeable Also well worth a visit is
either a touristy nightmare university, pretty pedes- the dungeon-like, brilliant-
or a lot of kitschy, colour- trian precincts and a ly illuminated Roman ar-
ful fun. But there’s also savoir vivre dating from chaeological site Heiligtum
wonderful walking in the Napoleon’s occupation
greater area, which is part (1797–1814). der Isis und Mater Magna
of the Rheingau wine re- (www.isis-mainz.de; Römer
gion, famed for its superior Strolling along the Passage 1; admission by donation;
rieslings. Rhine and sampling local h10am-6pm Mon-Sat). The
wines in an Altstadt easy-to-miss entrance is on
For a stunning Rhine tavern are as much a the Römer Passage mall’s
panorama, head up the part of any Mainz visit as ground floor just inside the
wine-producing slopes viewing the sights. Try the western entrance.
west of Rüdesheim to the 1791 Weinstube Hottum
Niederwald Monument. (Grebenstrasse 3; h4pm- 5 p489
Erected between 1877 midnight), serving wines
and 1883, this bombastic purely from the Rheingau
monument celebrates the and Rheinhessen regions,
488
Eating & Sleeping
Koblenz 5 Bacharach c
4 Hotel Stein Boutique Hotel €€ 4 Rhein Hotel Hotel €€
(%0261-963 530; www.hotel-stein.de; (%06743-1243; www.rhein-hotel-bacharach.de;
Mayener Strasse 126; s/d from €85/110; pW) Langstrasse 50; s €39-68, d €78-136; paW)
Decorated in zesty colours such as tangerine Right on the town’s medieval ramparts, this
contrasted with dark timbers, Stein’s 30 welcoming family-run hotel has 14 well-lit rooms GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine
contemporary rooms are all soundproofed for with original artwork. Rooms facing the river,
a peaceful night’s sleep. The hotel is situated and so the train tracks, have double-glazing.
across the Moselle River 2km north of Koblenz’ Guests can borrow bikes for free. Its Stübers
city centre but you won’t need to leave to dine: Restaurant (%06743-1243; Langstrasse 50;
mains €17-23; h11.30am-2.15pm & 5.30-9.15pm
its superb gourmet restaurant Schiller’s utilises
premium ingredients like white aspargus, Wed-Mon; v) is top-notch.
scampi, foie gras and truffles.
St Goar 8 Rüdesheim d
5 Weinhotel Landsknecht German €€ 4 Rüdesheimer Boutique Hotel €€
(%06741-2001; www.hotel-landsknecht.de; Schloss
Aussiedlung Landsknecht 4; mains €14-27.50,
4-course dinner menu €42; hnoon-2.30pm & (%06722-905 00; www.ruedesheimer-schloss.
6-9pm Apr-Oct, noon-2.30pm & 6-9pm Wed-Sun
Nov, Dec & Mar, closed Jan & Feb) The dining com; Steingasse 10; s €95-115, d €125-155, ste
room and terrace at this wonderful spot 1.5km
north of St Goar feel like being aboard a cruise €155-165; pW) Truly good places to sleep
boat, with close-up, uninterrupted river views.
Sensational home cooking spans pickled and eat are thin on the ground in Rüdesheim,
salmon with quince mousse to schnitzel with
mushroom and riesling sauce, and red-wine- but this 18th-century building has 26 stunning
marinated plums with rosemary-and-vanilla ice
cream. Many of its rooms (doubles from €90) contemporary rooms designed by local and
also have Rhine views.
regional artists. Its restaurant is excellent,
4 Romantik Hotel
serving dishes such as cheese and riesling soup,
Schloss Rheinfels Historic Hotel €€€
(%06741-8020; www.schloss-rheinfels.de; s/d veal liver with truffled mash, and roast duck
weekday from €95/130, weekend €110/140;
piWs) Part of the Burg Rheinfels (p486) stuffed with dates and figs, with a live pianist
castle complex is occupied by a romantic hotel
with 64 rooms and suites that range in size and after-dinner dancing.
from tiny to palatial. All have antique-style
furnishings; pricier rooms come with a river Mainz e
view. The hotel has three fine restaurants: one
rustic, one semiformal and one gourmet. 5 Zur Kanzel German, French €€€
(%06131-237 137; www.zurkanzel.de;
Grebenstrasse 4; mains €8-23.50; hkitchen
5-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm & 6-11pm Sat) Germany
meets France at this dark-timber-panelled
Weinstube (wine bar) in dishes such as grilled
tuna with riesling and sage sauce, garlic-crusted
rack of lamb with wilted spinach, schnitzel with
Frankfurt-style Grüne Sosse (green sauce) and
rump steak with herb butter, as well as garlic
snails. All ingredients are fresh, so the menu
evolves with the seasons; there’s a lovely summer
courtyard. Cash only.
489
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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MANFRED GOTTSCHALK / GETTY IMAGES © The Romantic
35Road
On this trip you’ll experience the Germany of the bedtime story-
book – medieval walled towns, gabled townhouses, cobbled squares
and crooked streets, all preserved as if time has come to a standstill.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 10 DAYS
350 KM / 218 MILES
0 km Ll##1
Würzburg GREAT FOR…
One of Germany's #4#
finest baroque ##5 BG
palaces is here
# Nördlingen BEST TIME TO GO
99 km
Rothenburg ob der Any time of year.
Tauber
Wander the streets of I ESSENTIAL
this medieval marvel PHOTO
149 km Augsburg # The half-timbered
Dinkelsbühl buildings of
The Romantic Road's Rothenburg ob der
quaintest town Tauber’s Plönlein.
350 km # Schongau K BEST TWO
DAYS
Neuschwanstein & mK##14
Hohenschwangau Castles The stretch between
Two of Germany's stops 4 and 6 takes
finest castles in the most romantic
towns of the Romantic
Road.
Dinkelsbühl Gabled houses 491
Main FG‚
35 km to 36
FG85 km to 34
/·A3
#]
35 The Romantic ·/Tauberbischofsheim B81
Road ##\2
From the vineyards of Würzburg to the foot of the #\#3
Alps, the Romantic Road (Romantische Strasse) is
by far the most popular of Germany’s touring routes. ·/A81
This well-trodden trail cuts through a cultural and
historical cross-section of southern Germany, coming #\ Burg
to a climax at the gates of King Ludwig II’s crazy Guttenberg
castles. The route links some of Germany’s most
picturesque towns, many appearing untouched since #\ \#
medieval times.
Heilbronn Schwäbisch
Hall
\# Backnang
\# Ludwigsburg Schwäbisch
Stuttgart
·/ Gmund
^#
B29 \#
Göppingen
#\
TRIP HIGHLIGHT 45 min English tours 11am & 3pm, \#
1 Würzburg also 4.30pm Apr-Oct), a vast Reutlingen
Unesco-listed palace, built
This scenic town in by 18th-century architect ¸0B311
Bavaria’s northeast corner Balthasar Neumann as
straddles the Main River the home of the local Donau
and is renowned for its prince-bishops. It’s one of #\
art, architecture and Germany’s most important Pfullendorf Ach
delicate wines. A large and beautiful baroque \# Bad
student population keeps palaces. The wonderful
things lively and plenty zigzagging Treppenhaus Waldsee #\
of hip nightlife pulsates (Staircase) is capped by
through its cobbled what is still the world’s Weingarten
streets. largest fresco, a master- #\
piece by Giovanni Battista Ravensburg \#
Top billing here goes to Tiepolo depicting allegories
the Würzburg Residenz of the four then-known Meersburg
(www.residenz-wuerzburg.de; continents (Europe, Africa,
Balthasar-Neumann-Promenade; America and Asia). The ·/#\ 31 Friedrichshafen
adult/concession/under 18yrs recently renovated Dom St
€7.50/6.50/free; h9am-6pm Kilian (www.dom-wuerzburg. #\ \#
Apr-Oct, 10am-4.30pm Nov-Mar, de; Domstrasse 40; h8am-7pm
Konstanz
Arbon ConLsatkaencLeinda\#u
\#
Bregenz ^#
SWITZERLAND
492 /·A1 \# St Gallen
Main e# 0 40 km #\
0 20 miles
Mon-Sat, 8am-8pm Sun) is a
Würzburg /·A3 highly unusual cathedral
with a Romanesque core
Ll#]#1 and the baroque Schön-
bornkapelle by Balthasar
/·A73 Neumann.
/·A7 \# Erlangen
5 4 p502
·/A9 The Drive » The 37km
Weikersheim Fürth #\ Nuremberg between Würzburg and the next
stop, Tauberbischofsheim, is
##\3 Rothenburg ]# best tackled in the following GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road
way: from the centre of
0¸L1040 #\#4 ob der Tauber Schwabach Würzburg take the B19 south
Ansbach until it joins the A3 motorway;
#\ \# follow this until the junction with
the B81, which goes all the way
E50 ·/E45 to Tauberbischofsheim.
/· ·/A7
Altmuhl 2 Tauberbischofsheim
\# Gunzenhausen The main town of the
pretty Tauber Valley, this
##\5 Dinkelsbühl Weissenburg #\ small settlement has a
picturesque marketplace
\# Aalen ·/B25 Eichstätt & dominated by a neo-
the Altmühltal Gothic town hall and
Nördlingen Nature Park lined with typical half-
timbered houses. Follow
#6#\ H# # the remains of the
medieval town walls
p498
LINK
\# #Harburg #\7 YOUR
TRIP
Lech#8#\Donau
Donau {^# German Fairy Tale
Donauwörth Road
Dona /·B2 Do one of the trips in
u reverse: the start of the
Ulm #\ ·/A8 Verlorener Bach Grimm Brothers' Fairy Tale
#Augsburg ]#9 Road is about an hour east
/·A7 ·/B17 from Würzburg.
·/A96 Ammersee y\# Romantic Rhine
#\#10 Landsberg Würzburg is two
\# Memmingen am Lech hours (154km) from Mainz,
at the end of this castle-
/·#\ Leutkirch A7 Kaufbeuren ·/B17 Wurmsee lined riverside jaunt.
#\
Weilheim 493
Marktoberdorf
# #\
1\#1 Schongau
·/A96 #\
Kempten\# /· #B171\#2 Wieskirche
Staffelsee
/·Mittlerer Bannwaldsee
##KmInselsee Füssen 1\#3 A95
14
Alpsee \# Garmisch-
Neuschwanstein & Partenkirchen
Ling#\enau Hohenschwangau
Z(2u9g6s3pmitz)eMi#\ttenwald #\
Castles R
AUSTRIA
GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road to the Kurmainzisches MUSEUM OF THE BAVARIAN
Schloss, which now hous- KINGS
es the Tauberfränkisches
Landschaftsmuseum Palace-fatigued visitors often head straight for
(Schlossplatz; admission the bus stop, coach park or nearest beer after a
€2; h2-4.30pm Tue-Sat, tour of the castles, most overlooking the area’s
10am-noon & 2-4.30pm Sun third attraction, the worthwhile Museum der
Easter-Oct), where you can Bayerischen Könige (Museum of the Bavarian Kings;
learn more about Tauber- www.museumderbayerischenkoenige.de; Alpseestrasse
bischofsheim’s past. 27; adult/concession €9.50/8; h10am-6pm), installed
in a former lakeside hotel 400m from the castle
The Drive » The 34km dash ticket office (heading towards Alpsee Lake). The
big-window views across the beautiful lake (a great
from Tauberbischofsheim to picnic spot) to the Alps are almost as amazing as
Weikersheim passes through the Wittelsbach bling on show, including Ludwig
Lauda-Königshofen, a pretty II’s famous blue-and-gold robe. The architecturally
stop in the Tauber Valley. stunning museum is packed with historical
background on Bavaria’s first family and is well worth
3 Weikersheim the extra legwork. A detailed audioguide is included
in the ticket price.
Top billing in under-
visited Weikersheim is follows minor country roads all half-timbered house you
Schloss Weikersheim the way, with the route passing are ever likely to see.
(www.schloss-weikersheim.de; through a rolling patchwork of
Marktplatz 11; adult/conces- fields. You could also detour via Hidden down a little al-
sion €6.50/3.30; h9am-6pm Creglingen, a minor stop on the ley is the Alt-Rothenburger
Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 1-5pm Romantic Road. Handwerkerhaus (Alter
Nov-Mar), the finest palace Stadtgraben 26; adult/conces-
on the entire Romantic TRIP HIGHLIGHT sion €3/2.50; h11am-5pm
Road. Renaissance to the Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun
core, it’s surrounded by 4 Rothenburg ob Easter-Oct, 2-4pm daily Dec),
beautiful formal gardens der Tauber where numerous artisans –
inspired by Versailles. including coopers, weavers,
Highlights include the A well-preserved histori- cobblers and potters – have
enormous Knights Hall cal town, Rothenburg ob their workshops today,
dating from around 1600 der Tauber is the most and mostly have had for
and over 40m long. The popular stop on the Ro- the house’s 700-plus-years
rich decor here includes a mantic Road. But when existence. It’s half museum,
huge painted ceiling, each you’re finished with the half active workplace and
panel depicting a hunting main sights, there are you can easily spend an
scene, and the amaz- a couple of less obvious hour or so watching the
ingly ornate fireplace. attractions here. craftsmen at work.
The unforgettable rococo
mirror cabinet, with its You’ll often see the 5 p502
gilt-and-red decor, is also Plönlein on the covers
part of the guided tour, of brochures and tourist The Drive » The quickest
after which you can wan- bumf, a gathering of
der the elegantly laid-out forks in the cobbled road and simplest way between
gardens. (Obere Schmiedgasse) Rothenburg ob der Tauber and
occupied by possibly the Dinkelsbühl is along the A7
The Drive » The short 28km quaintest, most crooked motorway (50km). For a gentler,
but slower and longer experience,
journey between Weikersheim follow the official Romantic Road
and Rothenburg ob der Tauber
494
route, which tacks along country ROTHENBURG’S SNOWBALLS GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road
roads via Schillingsfürst, another
quaint halt. Where is it possible to get your hands on a snowball
in July? Why, in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, of course!
TRIP HIGHLIGHT The town’s speciality are Schneeballen (snowballs),
ribbons of dough loosely shaped into balls, deep-
5 Dinkelsbühl fried then coated in icing sugar, chocolate and other
dentist’s foes. Some 24 types are produced at Diller’s
Immaculately preserved Schneeballen (Hofbronnengasse 16; h10am-6pm); a
Dinkelsbühl is argu- more limited range can be enjoyed all over town.
ably the Romantic Road’s
quaintest and most and has been declared the railway station is
authentically medieval a special ‘geopark’. a retirement home for
halt. Just like Rothenburg Nördlingen’s 14th-century locos that have puffed
it is ringed by medieval walls, all original, mimic their last. The museum
walls, which boast 18 tow- the crater’s rim and are runs steam trains up to
ers and four gates. The joy almost perfectly circular. Dinkelsbühl, Feuchtwan-
of Dinkelsbühl is aimless The Rieskrater Museum gen and Gunzenhausen
wandering through the (Eugene-Shoemaker-Platz 1; several times a year; see
crooked lanes, but for a the website for details.
lowdown on the town’s adult/concession €4.50/2.50,
history visit the Haus der 5 4 p503
Geschichte (Altrathausplatz ticket also valid for Stadtmuse- The Drive » The 19km drive
14; adult/child €4/2; h9am-
6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & um; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun, from Nördlingen to Harburg
Sun May-Oct, 10am-5pm daily is a simple affair along the
Nov-Apr), in the same build- closed noon-1.30pm Nov-Apr) arrow-straight B25 all the way.
ing as the tourist office. tells the story. Next door The road crosses the flatlands
is the Stadtmuseum created by the Ries meteorite,
5 4 p502 (Vordere Gerbergasse 1; adult/ now fertile agricultural land.
The Drive » Just 32km
concession €4.50/2.50, ticket 7 Harburg
separate Dinkelsbühl from
Nördlingen along the B25; also valid for Rieskrater Museum; Looming over the Wör-
drivers are accompanied by nitz River, the medieval
the Wörnitz River for the first h1.30-4.30pm Tue-Sun Mar- covered parapets, towers,
part of the journey. Just a few early Nov), which gives an turrets, keep and red-tiled
kilometres short of Nördlingen is interesting rundown of roofs of the 12th-century
Wallerstein, a small market town Nördlingen’s story so far. Schloss Harburg (www.
with the beautiful parish church burg-harburg.de; adult/child
of St Alban, also a Romantic On a completely differ- €5/3; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun
Road stop. ent note, the Bayerisches mid-Mar–Oct) are so perfectly
Eisenbahnmuseum (www.
6 Nördlingen bayerisches-eisenbahn
Charmingly medieval, museum.de; Am Hohen Weg 6a;
Nördlingen lies within
the Ries Basin, a massive adult/child €6/3; hnoon-
impact crater gouged out
by a meteorite more than 4pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm
15 million years ago. The
crater – some 25km in Sun May-Sep, noon-4pm Sat,
diameter – is one of the 10am-5pm Sun Oct-Mar) near
best preserved on earth,
WILLY WONKA’S NÖRDLINGEN
If you’ve seen the 1970s movie Willy Wonka & the
Chocolate Factory, you’ve already looked down upon
Nördlingen, from a glass elevator – aerial shots of the
town were used in the final sequences of the film.
495
RAINER MIRAU / LOOK-FOTO / GETTY IMAGES ©
TOMEKD76 / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
MARC DI DUCA,
AUTHOR
This 350km-long ribbon of historical
quaintness is the Germany you came
to see, but things can get crowded
in the summer months, taking away
a bit of the romance. Do the trip in
winter when Bavaria’s chocolate-box
towns look even prettier under a
layer of snow.
Top: The Main River in Würzburg with a fortress on
the hilltop
Left: Schneeballen (snowballs), a traditional cake in
Rothenburg ob der Tauber
Right: Franconia Fountain in front of Würzburg
Residenz
GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road preserved they almost
seem like part of a film set.
© BAYERISCHE SCHLÖSSERVERWALTUNG WWW.SCHLOESSER.BAYERN.DE / SOO HON KEONG / GETTY IMAGES ©Tours tell the Schloss’ long
tale and evoke the ghosts
that are said to use the
castle as a hang-out.
From the castle, the
walk to Harburg’s cute,
half-timbered Altstadt
(old town) takes around
10 minutes, slightly
more the other way as
you’re heading uphill. A
fabulous panorama of the
village and castle can be
admired from the 1702
stone bridge spanning
the Wörnitz.
The Drive » A mere 12km
separate tiny Harburg with its
bigger neighbour Donauwörth.
The route follows the B25 all the
way across undulating farmland.
8 Donauwörth
Sitting pretty at the
confluence of the Danube
and Wörnitz Rivers, the
small town of Donau-
wörth had its heyday
as a Free Imperial City
in the 14th century.
WWII destroyed 75% of
the medieval old town
but three gates and five
town-wall towers still
guard it today. The main
street is Reichstrasse,
which is where you’ll
discover the Lieb-
fraukirche (Reichstrasse),
a 15th-century Gothic
church with original
frescos and a curiously
sloping floor that drops
120cm. Swabia’s largest
church bell (6550kg)
swings in the belfry. The
other major attraction in
497
GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road town is the Käthe-Kruse- city of spires and cobbles hnoon-5pm Mon, 10am-
Puppenmuseum (www. is an engaging stop, 12.30pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-
kaethe-kruse.de; Pflegstrasse though one with a less 12.30pm & 3-4pm Sun). The
21a; adult/child €2.50/1.50; quaint atmosphere than birthplace of the poet and
h11am-6pm Tue-Sun May- others along the route. playwright Bertolt Brecht
Sep, 2-5pm Thu-Sun Oct-Apr). is now a museum called
In a former monastery, Augsburg’s top sight is the Bertolt-Brecht-Haus
it’s a nostalgia-inducing the Fuggerei (www.fugger. (%0821-324 2779; Auf dem Rain
place full of old dolls and de; Jakober Strasse; adult/ 7; adult/concession €2.50/2;
dollhouses from world- h10am-5pm Tue-Sun).
renowned designer Käthe concession €4/3; h8am-8pm
Kruse (1883–1968). Apr-Sep, 9am-6pm Oct-Mar), 5 4 p503
Europe’s oldest Catho-
The Drive » The quickest lic welfare settlement, The Drive » The 41km drive
founded by banker and
way between Donauwörth and merchant Jakob Fugger in from Augsburg to Landsberg am
the next stop in Augsburg 47km 1521. Around 200 people Lech is a simple affair along the
away is via the B2 and the A8 inhabit the complex to- B17. The route mostly follows the
motorway. The scenic route via day; see how the residents valley of the Lech River, which
backroads east of the A8 passes of yesterday lived by visit- links the two towns. Look out for
close to the pretty town of ing the Fuggereimuseum signs to the amusingly named
Rain, another minor halt on the (Mittlere Gasse 14; admission town of Kissing!
Romantic Road.
incl with entry to the Fuggerei; a Landsberg am
9 Augsburg Lech
h9am-8pm Mar-Oct, 9am-6pm
Augsburg is the Roman- Nov-Apr). A walled town on the
tic Road’s largest city and River Lech, lovely Lands-
one of Germany’s oldest, Two famous Germans berg has a less commer-
founded by the stepchil- have close associations cial ambience than others
dren of Roman emperor with Augsburg. The Prot- on the route. Just like the
Augustus over 2000 estant Reformation leader Wieskirche further south,
years ago. This attractive Martin Luther stayed here the small baroque Johan-
in 1518 – his story is told
at the St Anna Kirche (Im
Annahof 2, off Annastrasse;
DETOUR:
EICHSTÄTT & THE ALTMÜHLTAL
NATURE PARK
Start: 8 Donauwörth (p497)
A short 55km off the Romantic Road from Donauwörth lies the town of Eichstätt, the
main jumping-off point for the serenely picturesque 2900-sq-km Altmühltal Nature
Park, which follows the wooded valley of the Altmühl River. Canoeing the river is
a top activity here, as is cycling the same route and camping. The park is an ideal
break from the road and a relaxing place to spend a few days in unspoilt natural
surroundings. Eichtstätt itself has a wealth of architecture, including the richly
adorned medieval Dom (www.bistum-eichstaett.de/dom; Domplatz; h7.15am-7.30pm), with
its museum, the baroque Fürstbischöfliche Residenz (Residenzplatz; admission €1;
h7.30am-noon Mon-Fri, 2-4pm Mon-Wed, 2-5.30pm Thu), where the local prince-bishops
once lived it up, and the Willibaldsburg (%08421-4730; Burgstrasse 19; adult/concession
€4.50/3.50; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar), a 14th-century
castle that now houses a couple of museums.
498
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The Places You Must See In This World (DK Eyewitness Travel Guides)
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