it fell into English hands NAHLIK/GETTY IMAGES ©
in the 17th century. It’s a
deeply picturesque spot: a
low, water-fringed prom-
ontory with a moat hewn
out of the rock.
The Drive » Near Creeslough,
the bulk of Muckish Mountain
rears up before the N56 to
Dunfanaghy undulates past
homesteads, loughs and sandy
bays. Once in Dunfanaghy, with
its gently kooky vibe, welcoming
pubs and great places to sleep
(see p351), look out for the
signpost pointing right to Horn
Head (25km).
f Horn Head g Meenaleck Belfast Titanic Belfast
This headland provides You never know who’ll TRIP HIGHLIGHT
one of Donegal’s best drop by for one of the
clifftop drives: along legendary singalongs at h Arranmore Island
sheer, heather-clad Leo’s Tavern (%074-954
quartzite cliffs with 8143; www.leostavern.com; Arranmore (Árainn
views of an island-dotted off R259, Crolly; hkitchen Mhór) offers a true taste
sea. A circular road bears 1-8.45pm Jun-Sep, 5-8.45pm of Ireland. Framed by
left to the coastguard Thu-Fri, 1-8.45pm Sat, 1-8pm dramatic cliff faces,
station – park to take Sun Oct-May; Wc) in cavernous sea caves and
the 20-minute walk due Meenaleck. It’s owned by clear sandy beaches, this
north to the signal tower. Bartley Brennan, brother 9km-by-5km island sits
Hop back in the car, of Enya and her siblings 5km offshore. Here you’ll
continuing east – around Máire, Ciaran and Pól discover a prehistoric
1km later a viewpoint (aka the group Clannad). triangular fort and an off-
tops cliffs 180m high. The pub glitters with shore bird sanctuary flut-
There’s another superb gold, silver and platinum tering with corncrakes,
vantage point 1km fur- discs and is packed with snipes and seabirds. Irish
ther round – on a fine day musical mementos – is the main language
you’ll see Ireland’s most there’s live music nightly spoken, pubs put on turf
northerly point, Malin in the summer. fires, and trad-music
Head. sessions run late into
The Drive » Continue west the night. To get the full
The Drive » The N56 castaway experience, stay
on the R259 as it bobbles overnight (book). The Ar-
continues west. Settlements and twists besides scattered ranmore Ferry (%074-952
thin out, the road climbs and communities and a boggy, then 0532; www.arranmoreferry.
the pointed peak of Mt Errigal sandy, shore. Head on to the com; Burtonport; return adult/
fills more and more of your pocket-sized port of Burtonport, child/car & driver €15/7/30;
windshield before the road following ferry signs right, to h4-8 daily sailings year-round)
swings away. At tiny Crolly, follow embark for Arranmore Island takes 20 minutes.
the R259 towards the airport, (25km).
then turn right, picking up signs 4 p351
for Leo’s Tavern (35km).
349
IRELAND 25 The North in a Nutshell DETOUR: air. At tiny Maghera,
FINTOWN RAILWAY head through the car
park, down a track, over
Start: h Arranmore Island (p349) a boardwalk and onto a
truly stunning expanse
You’ve been driving for days now – time to let the of pure-white sand. This
train take the strain. The charming Fintown Railway exquisite place belies
(%074-954 6280; www.antraen.com; off R250, Fintown; a bloody past. Some
adult/child €8/5; h11am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun Jun–mid- 100 villagers hid from
Sep) runs along a rebuilt 5km section of the former Cromwell’s forces in
County Donegal Railway track beside picturesque nearby caves – all except
Lough Finn. It’s been lovingly restored to its original one were discovered and
condition, and a return trip in the red-and-white, massacred.
1940s diesel railcar takes around 40 minutes. To get
to the railway, head east on the R252, off the N56 The Drive » Drive west
south of Dungloe. Then settle back to enjoy the ride.
through Maghera on a dramatic
The Drive » The R259 remains: St Connell, a route that makes straight for the
cousin of St Colmcille, gap in the towering hills.At the
bounces down to Dungloe, founded a monastery fork, turn right, heading deeper
where you take the N56 south here in the 6th century. into the remote headland, making
into a rock-strewn landscape for Glencolumbcille (20km).
that’s backed by the Blue Stack 4 p351
Mountains. After a stretch The Drive » Continue south k Glencolumbcille
of rally-circuit-esque road,
the sweep of Gweebarra Bay on the R261 through tweed- The welcome in the
emerges. Take the sharp right producing Ardara. Shortly after scattered, pub-dotted,
towards peaceful Narin (R261), leaving town, take the right, bayside village of
following signs to the beach (trá), signed ‘Waterfall’, following a road Glencolumbcille (Gleann
45km from Arranmore Island. wedged between craggy hills and Cholm Cille) is warm.
an increasingly sandy shore. In This remote settlement
i Narin time the Assarancagh Waterfall also offers a glimpse of a
(14km) comes into view. disappearing way of life.
You’ve now entered the Father McDyer’s Folk
beautiful Loughrea j Assarancagh Village (www.glenfolkvillage.
Peninsula, which Waterfall com; Doonalt; adult/child
glistens with tiny lakes €4.50/2.50; h10am-6pm
cupped by undulating Step out of the car and Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun Easter-
hills. Narin boasts a you immediately feel Sep) took traditional life
spectacular 4km-long, what an enchanting spot of the 1960s and froze
wishbone-shaped Blue this is. As the waterfall it in time. Its thatched
Flag beach, the sandy tip streams down the sheer cottages re-create daily
of which points towards hillside, walk along life with genuine period
Iniskeel Island. You can the road (really a lane) fittings, while the Craft
walk to the island at low towards the sea. This Shop sells wines made
tide along a 500m sandy 1.5km route leads past from such things as
causeway. Your reward? time-warp farms – sheep seaweed, as well as
An intimate island stud- bleat and the tang of marmalade and whiskey
ded with early Christian peat smoke scents the truffles – a few treats at
your journey’s end.
350
Eating & Sleeping
Ballycastle 2 Rathmelton b
4 An Caislean Guesthouse ₤₤ 4 Frewin House B&B €€
Guesthouse (%074-915 1246; www.frewinhouse.com; Rectory
(%028-2076 2845; www.ancaislean.co.uk; 42 Rd; d €110-150; p) Set in secluded grounds,
Quay Rd; s/d from £45/60; pW) An Caislean this fine Victorian rectory combines antique
has a luxurious lounge, a summer tea room and furniture with contemporary style. You can IRELAND 25 The North in a Nutshell
restaurant, and a welcoming atmosphere.It’s arrange for a communal dinner by candlelight.
just a few minutes’ walk from the beach.
Portstewart 5 Downings d
4 Strandeen B&B ₤₤ 4 Beach Hotel €€
(Óstán na Trá; %074-915 5303; www.beachhotel.
(%028-7083 3872; www.strandeen.com; 63 ie; s/d €80/120; p) Many of the bright, modern
Strand Rd; d from £110) Set on a hilltop and more rooms at this large family-run hotel have ocean
like a boutique hotel than a B&B, Strandeen has views. You can refuel in its restaurant (three
four beautiful rooms, scrumptious organic and/ courses for €27.50) or bar (mains €10 to €22).
or free-range breakfasts, bike rental (per day It’s in Downings, 4km north of Carrigart.
£15), and an ocean-facing terrace.
Derry 7 Dunfanaghy e
4 Merchant’s House B&B ₤₤ 4 Corcreggan Mill Guesthouse €
(%074-913 6409; www.corcreggan.com; off
(%028-7126 9691; www.thesaddlershouse. N56; camp sites from €12, s/d from €60/75;
com; 16 Queen St; s/d/tr/f from £40/65/90/100; iW) Spotless four-bed dorms and private
iW) This historic, Georgian-style town house guest rooms are tucked into cosy corners of this
has an elegant lounge and dining room and lovingly restored former mill house, Continental
home-made marmalade at breakfast. Some breakfast is included in the room rates. Some
rooms share a bathroom. Call at Saddler’s rooms have private bathrooms. The mill is
House (36 Great James St) first to pick up a key. 2.5km southwest of town on the N56.
Glenevin Waterfall 9 Arranmore Island h
4 Glen House Guesthouse €€ 4 Claire’s Bed & Breakfast B&B €
(%074-937 6745; www.glenhouse.ie; Straid, (%074-952 0042; www.clairesbandb.wordpress.
Clonmany; r €70-100; pW) Despite the grand com; Leabgarrow; s/d €35/60; W) This modern
surroundings and luxurious rooms, you’ll find house with simple rooms is right by the ferry port.
neither pretension nor high prices at this gem
of a guesthouse. The rooms are a lesson in Narin i
restrained sophistication, and the setting is
incredibly tranquil. The walking trail to Glenevin 4 Carnaween House B&B €€
Waterfall starts next to the Rose Tea Room (%074-954 5122; www.carnaweenhouse.com;
(mains from €6; h10am-6pm daily Jul-Aug, Sat
Narin; s/d €60/120, cottage from €210, mains
& Sun only Mar-Jun & Sep-Oct), which opens to
€15-25; hkitchen 6-9pm Thu-Sun, 1-4pm Sun
a deck.
Jun-Sep, shorter hrs rest of year; W) Carnaween
House glows with brilliant white bedrooms in
a luxury beach-house style. The restaurant
serves modern Irish fare. 351
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DOUG MCKINLAY/GETTY IMAGES ©
Musical
26Landscapes
From the busker-packed streets of Galway city, this rip-roaring
ride takes you around County Clare and the Aran Islands to
discover fine traditional-music pubs, venues and festivals.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
155 km 5 DAYS
155KM / 96 MILES
Inisheer
End-of-the-earth GREAT FOR…
landscape and Ll
traditional drumming HBJ
festival
Galway #
# BEST TIME TO GO
Inishmór The summer months,
for outdoor céilidh
Km#9# Doolin # Lisdoonvarna (traditional dancing)
and music festivals.
#
I ESSENTIAL
Kilfenora # PHOTO
##4 Nightly set-dancing
at the crossroads, in
Miltown # ##2 Vaughan’s of Kilfenora.
Malbay
65 km K BEST FOR
Ennistymon Ennis SONG
Country village with Medieval town simply
roaring Cascades and bursting with fine pubs Ennis, on summer
music at every turn featuring trad music nights, where local
musicians ply their
110 km wares.
DLoocoalitnioAnmCuaspitcioianndpeetrafiolsrmtosgaot Gus O’Connor’s Pub 353
here
26 Musical Greatman's
Landscapes Bay
Gorumna Carra\#roe
Island
#\
Lettermullen
Lettermullen
Island
SNoournthd
Pick the big bawdy get-togethers of Galway’s always- GF#Inishmór 8 #\ Kilronan
on music scene, the atmospheric small pub sessions 23
in crossroad villages like Kilfenora or Kilronan on Inishmaan
the Aran Islands, where nonplaying patrons are a Aran Islands
minority, or the rollicking urban boozers in Ennis.
Whatever way you like it, this region is undeniably one
of Ireland’s hottest for traditional music.
1 Galway City nights. Or for something ATLANTIC
more contemporary, OCEAN
Galway (Gaillimh) has a Róisín Dubh (www.
young student popula- roisindubh.net; Upper Dominick e# 0 10 km
tion and largely creative St; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, 0 5 miles
community that give a till 2.30am Fri & Sat) is the
palpable energy to the place to hear emerging trad music. Brogan’s (24
place. Walk its colourful international rock and O’Connell St; h10.30am-
medieval streets, packed singer-songwriters.
with heritage shops, 11.30pm Mon-Thu, to 12.30am
sidewalk cafes and pubs, 5 4 p312, p361
all ensuring there’s never Fri & Sat, 12.30-11pm Sun),
a dull moment. Galway’s The Drive » From Galway city on the corner of Cooke’s
pub selection is second Lane, sees a fine bunch of
to none, and some swing centre, follow either the coast musicians rattling even
to tunes every night of road (R338) east out of town, the stone floors almost
the week. Crane Bar or the inner R446, signposted every night in summer,
(www.thecranebar.com; 2 Dublin or Limerick, as far as the and the plain-tile-fronted
Sea Rd; h10.30am-11.30pm N18 and then cruise south to John O’Dea (66 O’Connell St;
Mon-Fri, 10.30am-12.30am Ennis, where your great musical h10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu,
Sat, 12.30-11pm Sun), an tour of Clare begins.
atmospheric old pub west
of the Corrib, is the best TRIP HIGHLIGHT
spot in Galway to catch
an informal céilidh most 2 Ennis
Ennis (Inis), a medieval
town in origin, is packed
with pubs featuring
354
lL 4¼#\ Carnmore Athenry
GALWAY M6 #\
#4¼ 4¼Galway 1 R338 R446 #\ Oranmore
4¼#\ R336 #\ #\ #\
Inverin Spiddal Barna Salthill
#\ Clarinbridge
Galway Bay #\ Kilcolgan
GF23
New Kinvara
Quay IRELAND 26 Musical Landscapes
Dobhach Bhráinín Burren Village #\ 4¼ 4¼Bay Ardrahan #\
(318m) R Blackhead #\
N67 Kin#\varRa347
Bay 4¼N18
Caher Valley Ballyvaughan
4¼Fanore #\ (Khyber Pass) #\ #\ Bell Harbour #\ Gort
Oughtmama LCouutrgah
Corkscrew R Valley
Turlough
#9 Km R Hill The Hill
SSoouunthd SElilevvae (180m) Burren (282m)
Inisheer R477
FG23 R
4¼(345m)
N67 4¼R480
Doolin #6#\ Lisdoonvarna #\ Carron 4¼R460
Mul(l1a9g1hmm) ore
##\7
4¼ 4¼ #N67 5#\ Kilfenora R
CLARE Lough 4¼M18
R478 George #\ Crusheen
4¼R481 Lough #\ Kilnaboy
HHaegad's Liscannor Inchiquin Clare
#\ Corofin Lakelands
##\ 4¼R460 #\ Ruan
Lahinch 4#\ Ennistymon
#\ 23 4¼R476
GFLiscannor
Bay 4¼N85
4¼N67
Miltown 4¼R460 #\ Inagh 4¼N85 #\ Tulla
##\3 Malbay 4¼R474 # 4¼Ennis #\2
MBaayl #\ Spanish 4¼N68 M18 #\ Quin
Point
#\ Clarecastle #\ ‚ FG151 km to 24
Quilty
to 12.30am Fri & Sat, 12.30- LINK
11pm Sun) is a hideout for YOUR
local musicians serious TRIP
about their trad sessions.
Cois na hAbhna (%065- n The Long Way o Ring of Kerry
682 0996; www.coisnahabhna. Round Head south to
Killarney via Limerick to
ie; Gort Rd; hshop 9am-5pm, From Galway, pick up this encounter jaw-dropping
trad sessions 9pm Tue), a trip north or south for scenery around the
pilgrimage point for crenellated coastlines, Iveragh Peninsula.
traditional music and vibrant port cities and
culture, has frequent island treasures.
performances and a full
355
IRELAND 26 Musical Landscapes range of classes in dance the low cliffs, coves country villages where
and music; it’s also an and isolated beaches. A people go about their
archive and library of classically friendly place business barely notic-
Irish traditional music, in the chatty Irish way, ing the characterful
song, dance and folklore. Miltown Malbay hosts buildings lining Main St.
Traditional music aficio- the annual Willie Clancy And behind this facade
nados might like to time Summer School, one there’s a surprise: the
a visit with Fleadh Nua of Ireland’s great trad roaring Cascades, the
(www.fleadhnua.com), a music events. O’Friel’s stepped falls of the River
lively festival held in late Bar (Lynch’s; The Square; Inagh. After heavy rain
May. h2pm-midnight Sun-Wed, they surge, beer-brown
6pm-1am Thu-Sat) is one and foaming, and you
5 4 p312, p361 of a couple of genuine risk getting drenched
The Drive » From the N85 old-style places with on windy days in the
occasional trad sessions. flying drizzle. Not to be
that runs south of The Burren, The other is the dapper missed, Eugene’s (Main St;
you’ll meet the smaller R460 Hillery’s (Main St; hnoon- h10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu,
at the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it 12.30am Sun-Thu, to 1.30am 10.30am-12.30am Fri-Sat,
village of Inagh. Here you’ll find Fri-Sat). 12.30-11pm Sun) is intimate
the Biddy Early Brewery, which and cosy and has a
sells a draught ale, Red Biddy, The Drive » Hugging the trademark collection of
made using local Burren plants visiting cards cover-
and seaweeds for flavouring. coast, continue north until ing its walls, alongside
Refuelled, it’s a straight run into you come to the small seaside photographs of famous
Miltown Malbay. resort of Lahinch, more or less writers and musicians.
a single street backing a wide The inspiring collection
3 Miltown Malbay beach renowned for its surfing. of whiskey (Irish) and
From here, it’s only 4km up the whisky (Scottish) will
Miltown Malbay was road to the lovely heritage town have you smoothly debat-
a resort favoured by of Ennistymon. ing their relative merits.
well-to-do Victorians, Another great old pub is
though the beach itself TRIP HIGHLIGHT Cooley’s House (%065-
is 2km south at Span- 707 1712; Main St; h10.30am-
ish Point. To the north 4 Ennistymon 11pm Mon-Sat, noon-11.30pm
of the Point, there are Sun), with music most
beautiful walks amid Ennistymon (Inis nights in summer and on
Díomáin) is one of those Wednesday (trad night)
in winter.
THE PIED PIPER
4 p361
Half the population of Miltown Malbay seems to
be part of the annual Willie Clancy Irish Summer The Drive » Heading north
School (%065-708 4148; www.scoilsamhraidhwillieclancy.
com; hJul), a tribute to a native son and one of through a patchwork of green
Ireland’s greatest pipers. The eight-day festival, now fields and stony walls on the
in its fourth decade, begins on the first Saturday in R481, you’ll land at the tiny
July, when impromptu sessions occur day and night, village of Kilfenora, some 9km
the pubs are packed and Guinness is consumed by later. Despite its diminutive size,
the barrel – up to 10,000 enthusiasts from around the pulse of Clare’s music scene
the globe turn up for the event. Specialist workshops beats strongly in this area.
and classes underpin the event; don’t be surprised to
attend a recital with 40 noted fiddlers.
356
DESIGN PICS/TRISH PUNCH/GETTY IMAGES ©
Kilfenora Kilfenora Cathedral
5 Kilfenora a strong music tradition vaughanspub.ie; Main St; mains
that rivals that of Doolin €8-15; hkitchen 10am-9pm)
Underappreciated Kilfe- but without the crowds. has music in the bar
nora (Cill Fhionnúrach) The Kilfenora Céili Band every night during the
lies on the southern (www.kilfenoraceiliband. summer and terrific
fringe of The Burren. com) is a celebrated set-dancing sessions in
It’s a small place, with a community that’s been its barn on Thursday and
diminutive 12th-century playing for 100 years; Sunday nights.
cathedral, and is best its traditional music
known for its high features fiddles, banjos, The Drive » From Kilfenora,
crosses. The town has squeeze boxes and more.
Vaughan’s Pub (www. the road meanders northwest
8km to Lisdoonvarna, home of
the international matchmaking
357
MICHELLE MCMAHON/GETTY IMAGES ©
ROBIN BUSH/GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
FIONN DAVENPORT,
WRITER
To witness a proper traditional
session in one of the music houses
of Clare or the fine old pubs of
Galway can be a transcendent
experience, especially if it’s
appropriately lubricated with a pint
(or few) of stout. Sure, there’ll be
plenty of tourists about, but this is
authentic, traditional Ireland at its
most evocative.
Top: Abandoned cottage, Inishmór
Left: Eugene’s, Ennistymon
Right: Musician, Galway
IRELAND 26 Musical Landscapesfestival. Posh during Victorian
times, the town is more down
NEIL SETCHFIELD/GETTY IMAGES © at heel today, but friendly,
good-looking and far less
overrun than Doolin.
6 Lisdoonvarna
Lisdoonvarna (Lios Dún
Bhearna), often just called
‘Lisdoon’, is well known
for its mineral springs.
For centuries people have
been visiting the local
spa to swallow its waters.
Down by the river at
Roadside Tavern (www.
roadsidetavern.ie; Kincora Rd;
mains €11.50-20; hnoon-4pm
& 6-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-9pm Sat,
noon-8pm Sun), third-
generation owner Peter
Curtin knows every story
worth telling. There are
trad sessions daily in
summer. Look for a trail
beside the pub that runs
400m down to two wells
by the river. One is high
in sulphur, the other
iron. Mix and match for a
cocktail of minerals. Next
door, Burren Smokehouse
(%065-707 4432; www.burren
smokehouse.ie; Kincora Rd;
h9am-7pm May-Aug, 9am-6pm
Apr, 10am-5pm Mar & Sep-Oct,
shorter hrs winter; p) is
where you can learn about
the ancient Irish art of
oak-smoking salmon.
The Drive » Just under 10
minutes’ drive west of here is the
epicentre of Clare’s trad music
scene, at Doolin. Also known for
its setting – 6km north of the
Cliffs of Moher – what’s called
Doolin is really three small
neighbouring villages. There’s
Fisherstreet, right on the water,
Doolin itself, about 1km east
on the little River Aille, and
Roadford, another 1km east.
359
IRELAND 26 Musical Landscapes 7 Doolin thousands of travellers TRIP HIGHLIGHT
each year who find their
Doolin gets plenty of desolate beauty beguil- 9 Inisheer
press as a centre of Irish ing. The largest and
traditional music, owing most accessible Aran, On Inisheer (Inis Oírr),
to a trio of pubs that Inishmór, is home to the smallest of the Aran
have sessions through ancient fort Dún Aengus Islands, the breathtak-
the year. McGann’s (www. (Dún Aonghasa; www. ingly beautiful end-of-
mcgannspubdoolin.com; heritageireland.ie/en/west/ the-earth landscape adds
Roadford; h10am-12.30am, dunaonghasa/; adult/child to the island’s distinctly
kitchen 10am-9.30pm) has €4/2; h9.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, mystical aura. Steeped
all the classic touches 9.30am-4pm Nov-Mar, closed in mythology, traditional
of a full-on Irish music Mon & Tue Jan & Feb), one of rituals are still very
pub; the action often the oldest archaeologi- much respected here.
spills out onto the street. cal remains in Ireland. Locals still carry out a
Right on the water, Gus The island also has some pilgrimage with potential
O’Connor’s Pub (www.gus lively pubs and restau- healing powers, known
oconnorspubdoolin.net; Fish- rants, particularly in as the Turas, to the Well
erstreet; h9am-midnight), a the only town, Kilronan. of Enda, an ever-burbling
sprawling favourite, has Irish remains the local spring in the southwest.
a rollicking atmosphere. tongue, but most locals For a week in late June
It easily gets the most speak English with visi- the island reverberates to
crowded and has the tors. Tí Joe Watty’s Bar the thunder of traditional
highest tourist quotient. (www.joewattys.com; Kilronan; drums during Craiceann
MacDiarmada’s (Roadford; hkitchen 12.30-9pm) is the Inis Oírr International
hbar 11am-midnight, kitchen best pub in Kilronan, Bodhrán Summer School
9am-9.30pm), also known with traditional sessions (www.craiceann.com), which
as McDermott’s, is a most nights. Turf fires includes Bodhrán master
simple and sometimes warm the air on the 50 classes, workshops and
rowdy red-and-white old weeks a year when this is pub sessions as well as
pub popular with locals. needed. Informal music Irish dancing. Rory Con-
When the fiddles get sessions, turf fires and a neely’s atmospheric inn
going, it can seem like a broad terrace with har- Tigh Ruaírí (Strand House;
scene out of a John Ford bour views make Tí Joe %099-75020; www.tighruairi.
movie. Mac’s (Kilronan) a local fa- com; r €50-90; i) hosts
vourite, while jovial Tigh live music sessions and,
4 p361 Fitz (Killeany), near the here since 1897, Tigh Ned
airport, has traditional (meals €5-10) is a welcom-
The Drive » You’ll need to sessions and set dancing ing, unpretentious place,
every weekend. It’s 1.6km with harbour views and
leave your car at one of Doolin’s from Kilronan (about a lively traditional music.
many car parks to board the 25-minute walk).
ferry to the Aran Islands. 4 p361
4 p361
8 Inishmór
The Drive » Ferries can be
The Aran Islands sing
their own siren song to picked up between Aran Islands
but tickets must be prebooked.
360
Eating & Sleeping
Galway City 1 married Dylan Thomas. With 140 modern
rooms and a large, enclosed pool, the hotel’s
4 Heron’s Rest B&B €€ view of the Cascades from the entrance steps
is breathtaking, and there are 20 hectares of
(%091-539 574; www.theheronsrest.com; wooded gardens.
16a Longwalk; s/d from €80/140; W) Ideally
located in a lovely row of houses on the banks of Doolin 7
the Corrib, the thoughtful hosts here give you IRELAND 26 Musical Landscapes
deck chairs so you can sit outside and enjoy the 4 Cullinan’s Guesthouse Inn €€
scene. Other touches include holiday-friendly (%065-707 4183; www.cullinansdoolin.com; d
breakfast times (8am to 11am), decanters of from €100; pW) Owned by well-known fiddle-
port (enough for a glass or two) and more. playing James Cullinan, the eight rooms at this
Rooms are small and cute, with double-glazed smart place on the River Aille are very good-
windows and water views. looking, with power showers and comfortable
fittings. A couple of rooms are slightly smaller
Ennis 2 than the others, but are right on the water.
5 Zest There’s a lovely back terrace for enjoying the
Cafe € views.
(www.zestfood.ie; Market Pl; meals €5-10;
h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4.30pm Sun) Inishmór 8
Zest combines a deli, bakery, shop and cafe.
Excellent prepared foods from the region are 4 Man of Aran Cottage B&B €€
offered along with salads, soups and much (%099-61301; www.manofarancottage.com;
more. It’s ideal for a coffee or lunch. Kilmurvey; s/d from €55/80; hMar-Oct) Built
4 Old Ground Hotel Hotel €€ for the 1930s film of the same name, this
(%065-682 8127; www.flynnhotels.com; thatched B&B doesn’t trade on past glories –
O’Connell St; s/d from €120/150; piW) A its authentic stone-and-wood interiors define
seasoned, charming and congenial space of charming. The owners are avid organic
polished floorboards, cornice-work, antiques gardeners (the tomatoes are famous) and their
and open fires, the lobby is always a scene: bounty can become your meal (mains €22).
old friends sinking into sofas, deals cut at
the tables, and ladies from the neighbouring Inisheer 9
church’s altar society exchanging gossip over
tea. Parts of this smart and rambling landmark 4 Fisherman’s Cottage &
date back to the 1800s. The 83 rooms vary B&B €€
greatly in size and decor – don’t hesitate to South Aran House
inspect a few. On balmy days, retire to tables (%099-75073; www.southaran.com; Castle
on the lawn. Village; s/d €49/80; hApr-Oct; W) Slow-food
enthusiasts run this sprightly B&B and cafe
Ennistymon 4 that’s a mere five-minute walk from the pier;
look for the lavender growing in profusion at
4 Falls Hotel Hotel €€ the entrance. Meals (dinner mains €12 to €20)
(%065-707 1004; www.fallshotel.ie; off N67; celebrate local seafood and organic produce.
r from €95; pWs) Built on the ruins of an Nonguests can enjoy cakes by day and dinner at
O’Brien castle, this handsome and sprawling night, but will need to book. Rooms are simple
Georgian house was once Ennistymon House, yet stylish. Kayaking and fishing are among the
the family home of Caitlín MacNamara, who activities on offer.
361
NEED TO ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
KNOW
Climate
CURRENCY
Warm to hot summers,
Republic of Ireland: Euro (€); mild winters
Northern Ireland: pound
sterling (£) Belfast
# GO May-Sep
LANGUAGES
Galway Dublin
English, Irish GO May-Sep # # GO Any time
VISAS lots of indoor
attractions
Generally not required by
citizens of Europe, Australia, Kerry Cork
New Zealand, USA and GO May-Sep # # GO May-Sep
Canada.
When to Go
FUEL
High Season (Jun–mid-Sep)
Petrol (gas) stations are »»Weather at its best.
everywhere, but are limited »»Accommodation rates at their highest (especially in August).
on motorways. Expect »»Tourist peak in Dublin, Kerry, southern and western coasts.
to pay €1.30 per litre of
unleaded (€1.20 for diesel) Shoulder Season (Easter to May, mid-Sep to Oct)
in the Republic and £1.15 »»Weather often good; sun and rain in May, ‘Indian summers’
for unleaded and diesel in
Northern Ireland. and often warm in September.
RENTAL CARS »»Summer crowds and accommodation rates drop off.
Avis (www.avis.ie) Low Season (Nov–Feb)
»»Reduced opening hours from October to Easter; some
Europcar (www.europcar.ie)
destinations close.
Hertz (www.hertz.ie)
»»Cold and wet weather throughout the country; fog can reduce
Thrifty (www.thrifty.ie)
visibility.
IMPORTANT NUMBERS
»»Big-city attractions operate as normal.
Country code (%353
Republic of Ireland,
%44 Northern Ireland)
Emergencies (%999)
Roadside Assistance
(%1800 667 788 Republic
of Ireland, %0800 887 766
Northern Ireland)
362
Daily Costs Sleeping Buses Take around 45 minutes
Budget: Less than €60 to the centre of Dublin.
»»Dorm bed: €12–20 Hotels From chain hotels to
»»Cheap meal in cafe or pub: Norman castles – with prices to Mobile Phones
match.
€6–12 Phones from most other
B&Bs Standards vary, but countries work in Ireland but
»»Pint: €4.50–5 (more expensive the B&B is the bedrock of Irish attract roaming charges. Local
accommodation. SIM cards cost from €10; SIM
in cities) and basic handsets around €40.
Hostels Feature clean dorms
Midrange: €60–120 and wi-fi. Some have laundry and Internet Access
»»Double room in hotel or B&B: kitchen facilities.
Most hotels, B&Bs, hostels, bars
€80–180 (more expensive in Sleeping price indicators and restaurants offer free wi-fi
Dublin) represent the cost of a double access. Internet cafes charge up
room in high season: to €6/£5 per hour.
»»Main course in midrange
Republic/ Northern Money
restaurant: €12–25 Ireland
ATMs are widely available. Credit
»»Car rental (per day): from €/£ <€80/£50 and debit cards can be used in
€€/££ most places, but check first.
€25–45 €80–180/
£50–120 Tipping
Top End: More than €120
»»Four-star hotel stay: from €150 €€€/£££ >€180/£120 Not obligatory, but 10% to 15%
»»Three-course meal in good in restaurants; €1/£1 per bag for
hotel porters.
restaurant: around €50
Useful Websites
»»Top round of golf (midweek):
Entertainment Ireland
from €90 (www.entertainment.ie)
Countrywide listings for every
Eating Arriving in Ireland kind of entertainment.
Dublin Airport Failte Ireland (www.
Restaurants From cheap discoverireland.ie) Official
cafes to Michelin-starred feasts, Rental cars The main rental tourist board website – practical
covering all kinds of cuisines. agencies have offices at the info and a huge accommodation
airport. database.
Cafes For all-day breakfasts, Lonely Planet (www.
sandwiches and basic dishes. Taxis Taxis to the city take 30 to lonelyplanet.com/ireland)
45 minutes and cost €20 to €25. Destination information, hotel
Pubs Pub grub ranges from bookings, traveller forums and
toasted sandwiches to carefully Buses Run every 10 to 15 more.
crafted dishes. minutes to the city centre (€7).
Northern Ireland Tourist
Hotels All hotel restaurants take Cork Airport Board (www.nitb.com) Official
non-guests. They’re a popular tourist site.
option in the countryside. Rental cars There are car-hire
desks for the main companies.
Eating price indicators represent
the cost of a main dish: Taxis A taxi to/from town costs
€20 to €25.
Republic/Northern
Ireland Buses Run every half hour
between 6am and 10pm to the
€/£ <€12/£12 train station (€7.40).
€€/££ €12–25/ Dun Laoghaire
€€€/£££ £12–20 Ferry Port
>€25/£20 DART (Suburban rail); 25
minutes to the centre of Dublin.
363
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Language
Irish (Gaeilge) is the country’s official language. In 2003 the government introduced the Official
Languages Act, whereby all official documents and street signs must be either in Irish or in both
Irish and English. Despite its official status, Irish is really only spoken in pockets of rural Ire-
land known as the Gaeltacht, the main ones being Cork (Corcaigh), Donegal (Dún na nGall),
Galway (Gaillimh), Kerry (Ciarraí) and Mayo (Maigh Eo).
Ask people outside the Gaeltacht if they can speak Irish and nine out of 10 of them will
probably reply, ‘ah, cupla focal’ (a couple of words), and they generally mean it – but many
adults also regret not having a greater grasp of it. Irish is a compulsory subject in schools for
those aged six to 15. In recent times, a new Irish curriculum has been introduced cutting the
hours devoted to the subject but making the lessons more fun, practical and celebratory.
Irish divides vowels into long (those with an accent) and short (those without), and also
distinguishes between broad (a, á, o, ó, u) and slender (e, é, i and í), which can affect the
pronunciation of preceding consonants. Other than a few clusters, such as mh and bhf (both
pronounced as w), consonants are generally pronounced the same as in English.
Irish has three main dialects: Connaught Irish (in Galway and northern Mayo), Munster
Irish (in Cork, Kerry and Waterford) and Ulster Irish (in Donegal). Our pronunciation guides
are an anglicised version of modern standard Irish, which is essentially an amalgam of the
three – if you read them as if they were English, you’ll be able to get your point across in
Gaeilge without even having to think about the specifics of Irish pronunciation or spelling.
BASICS Thank you (very) much.
Go raibh (míle) goh rev (meela)
maith agat. mah agut
Hello.
Dia duit. deea gwit Excuse me. gamoh lesh scale
Hello. (reply) deeas moyra gwit Gabh mo leithscéal.
Dia is Muire duit.
I’m sorry. taw brohn oruhm
Good morning. Tá brón orm.
Maidin mhaith.
mawjin wah Do you speak (Irish)?
An bhfuil (Gaeilge) agat? on wil (gaylge) oguht
Good night.
Oíche mhaith. eekheh wah I don’t understand.
Ní thuigim. nee higgim
Goodbye. (when leaving)
Slán leat. slawn lyat What is this?
Cad é seo? kod ay shoh
Goodbye. (when staying)
Slán agat. slawn agut
Yes. taw Want More?
Tá.
For in-depth language information and
No. handy phrases, check out Lonely Plan-
Níl. neel et’s Irish Language & Culture. You’ll
find it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or
It is. sheh you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone
Sea. phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.
It isn’t. nee heh
Ní hea.
364
Signs What’s your name?
Cad is ainm duit? kod is anim dwit
Dúnta
Gardaí Closed My name is (Sean Frayne).
Leithreas Police (Sean Frayne) is (shawn frain) is
Ná Caitear Tobac Toilet ainm dom. anim dohm
Oifig An Phoist No Smoking
Oifig Eolais Post Office Impossible! nee faydir ay
Oscailte Tourist Information Ní féidir é!
Páirceáil Open
Fir Parking Nonsense! rawmaysh
Mná Men Ráiméis!
Women
That’s terrible! guh hoofawsokh
Go huafásach!
Take it easy. tohg ay gobogay
Tóg é gobogé.
DAYS OF THE WEEK
What is that? kod ay shin Monday Dé Luaín day loon
Cad é sin? baw wah lohm Tuesday Dé Máirt day maart
I’d like to go to … dull go dee … Wednesday Dé Ceádaoin day kaydeen
Ba mhaith liom bah wah lohm … Thursday Déardaoin daredeen
dul go dtí … a kyanukh Friday Dé hAoine day heeneh
I’d like to buy … kyawn ella Saturday Dé Sathairn day sahern
Ba mhaith liom … goh dyass Sunday Dé Domhnaigh day downick
a cheannach.
another/one more NUMBERS
ceann eile
nice 1
go deas 2
MAKING CONVERSATION 3 haon hayin
dó doe
Welcome. 4 trí tree
Ceád míle fáilte. kade meela fawlcha 5 ceathaír kahirr
(lit: 100,000 welcomes) cúig kooig
6 sé shay
Bon voyage! seacht shocked
Go n-éirí an bóthar leat! go nairee on bohhar lat 7 hocht hukt
8 naoi nay
How are you? kunas aw taw too 9 deich jeh
Conas a tá tú? haon déag hayin jague
10 dó dhéag doe yague
I’m fine. thawm go mah fiche feekhe
Táim go maith. 11 fiche haon feekhe hayin
12
… please. … maws ay do hall ay 20
… más é do thoil é. 21
Cheers!
Slainte! slawncha
365
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
STRETCH Trinity College
YOUR LEGS
DUBLIN Ireland’s most prestigious univer-
sity (%01-896 1000; www.tcd.ie; College
Start/Finish Trinity College Green; h8am-10pm; gall city centre) is a
Distance 4.9km masterpiece of architecture and land-
Duration 3 hours scaping, and Dublin’s most attractive
bit of historical real estate, beautifully
Dublin’s most important attractions preserved in Georgian aspic.
are concentrated on the south side
of the Liffey, split between the older The Walk » From Trinity College, walk west
medieval town dominated by the
castle and the two cathedrals, and along Dame St and turn into Dublin Castle.
the handsome 18th-century city that
is a showcase of exquisite Georgian Chester Beatty Library
aesthetics.
The world-famous library (%01-407
Take this walk on Trips 0750; www.cbl.ie; Dublin Castle; h10am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun year-round,
mn closed Mon Nov-Feb, free tours 1pm Wed, 3pm &
4pm Sun; gall city centre), in the grounds
of Dublin Castle, houses the collection
of mining engineer Sir Alfred Chester
Beatty (1875–1968). Spread over two
floors, the breathtaking collection in-
cludes more than 20,000 manuscripts,
rare books, miniature paintings, clay
tablets, costumes and other objects of
historical and aesthetic importance.
The Walk » Exit the castle and walk west; you’ll
see Christ Church Cathedral directly in front of
you.
Christ Church Cathedral
Its hilltop location and eye-catching
flying buttresses make this the most
photogenic by far of Dublin’s three
cathedrals (Church of the Holy Trinity; www.
christchurchcathedral.ie; Christ Church Pl;
adult/student/child €6/4.50/2; h9am-5pm
Mon-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun year-round, longer
hours Jun-Aug; g50, 50A, 56A from Aston Quay,
54, 54A from Burgh Quay) as well as one of
the capital’s most recognisable sym-
bols. It was founded in 1030 on what
was then the southern edge of Dublin’s
Viking settlement. The Normans re-
built the lot in stone from 1172.
The Walk » Go south along Nicholas St (which
becomes New St); St Patrick’s is 400m along.
St Patrick’s Cathedral
Reputedly, it was at this cathedral
(www.stpatrickscathedral.ie; St Patrick’s Close;
366
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Anglesea St
Parliament St
Nicholas St Ross Rd Chester S Great George's St Grafton St National Clare St
Beatty Dawson St
Kildare St
Library Merrion Sq W
000000000000NationaAl Mrcuhsaeeuomlogoyf Gallery #
Bride St Aungier St Ireland – ‚ Merrion
& History # MerrionSSqq S
Patrick St #
# St Patrick's St Stephen's ¤# St Stephen's Green National
Cathedral Green St Stephen's Museum of
Green Ireland – Natural
Upper Kevin St Bishop St N M11ReHo1rwirsiotnory
New St ow er Kevin StL Cuffe St
StGSreteepnhSen's
adult/student/child €6/5/free; h9.30am-5pm Age and Iron Age gold artefacts in the
Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 9-10.30am & 12.30- world, and the world’s most complete
2.30pm Sun; g50, 50A, 56A from Aston Quay, collection of medieval Celtic metalwork.
54, 54A from Burgh Quay) that St Paddy
himself dunked the Irish heathens into The Walk » Walk north on Kildare St and turn
the waters of a well. Although there’s
been a church here since the 5th cen- right on Nassau St, then stay right on Clare St.
tury, the present building dates from
1190 or 1225 (opinions differ). National Museum of Ireland –
Natural History
The Walk » Just south of St Patrick’s, turn left
Dusty, weird and utterly compelling,
onto Kevin St and keep going until you reach St and a window into Victorian times, this
Stephen’s Green; cross it and then turn onto museum (Upper Merrion St; h10am-5pm
Kildare St. Tue-Sat, 2-5pm Sun; g 7, 44 from city centre)
has barely changed since Scottish
National Museum of Ireland – explorer Dr David Livingstone opened
Archaeology & History it in 1857 – before disappearing into
the African jungle for a meeting with
The star attraction of this branch of Henry Stanley.
the National Museum of Ireland (www.
museum.ie; Kildare St; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, The Walk » Turn right onto Merrion Row, skirt
2-5pm Sun; gall city centre) is the Treasury,
home to the finest collection of Bronze St Stephen’s Green and go right into Grafton St to
head back to Trinity College.
367
Spain
SPECTACULAR BEACHES, MOUNTAINTOP
CASTLES, MEDIEVAL VILLAGES,
STUNNING ARCHITECTURE and some
of the most celebrated restaurants on
the planet – Spain has an allure that few
destinations can match.
There’s much to see and do amid the
enchanting landscapes that inspired Picasso
and Velàzquez. You can spend your days
feasting on seafood in coastal Galician towns,
feel the heartbeat of Spain at soul-stirring
flamenco shows or hike across the flower-
strewn meadows of the mountains. The
journeys in this region offer something for
everyone: beach lovers, outdoor adventurers,
family travellers, music fiends, foodies and
those simply wanting to delve into Spain’s rich
art and history.
Costa del Sol Mijas
ALEX TIHONOVS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
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:
:
T/· /· /·/·FG/· ·/GF ·//·/·GF /··/ /·LISBLeAO#_ivrN1ei5aRi0r^#ímoo i:P#^lPeeFjO3soao:BÉ0R^#rr0veTotdH^#:^#kojUaeEmaulrmCldGBCeaeePSyAbahrglCiaaGaasPLve^#G#^rrálnriotnasqCedcrRezllueuooacfiaa^#oíz^#seslaoCdtooBL#]adNr:::::eduáadeaTdezANddPtaAGMe::ruDaaaiarSAr#^rztiMoNojécuaqbA:::olñcee#^la6c#]rurOrhnzPa6oatvieauenaaRd:lrC^#irnrlalO#]aqatáAlo:::eula6CcPdScAdFo2LeaiaereOerelorrR:rGerSo^#qcsAAe]#rseluun46oaaíP(sv::::6Ge2oatSsRiiSNC2Ll5ceidNdtlaTboo98aar:óreaFMalraar2gadauralttPmiu^#CjqueuedGtAm::leoinoturlen7)uoaAohMsaadatfiartall#^ebrvaTdmnodNcaRMSiioaAn3eé-NcdaraPíVi::lnotenn0aeneaaáeGrlRaddrtz(srlJuSq:3oúoraaMdRC(M]#o4uraraj#]2gaaedl7#^eEeié0a:::nlrAT9ueaDra6#^n4#_maodo49lI:::RmdTla)mNeAMREadaS4SSP4)dM::::REieaA2oeSPgRarA#]r7qgiuaD::::AreAuirraCRGrnNqRaeRsrl:auuEuaGAAbS(yIdN2eE(eA(DaNlaoeN2all2^#ma2mnn-lNaNmd1I1tf7eCcIst0uoec6ap1avaaer7rmea7VtaadAlzímaumBtadani7roe]#)llreáajíra)l)aaaarldlab#^scra,aaaAsrr3a0
ejo
Río J ú
ATLANTIC Río Sad o
OCEAN
Rí
e# 0
0
r Mediterranean Meander 7 Days u Historic Castilla y León 7 Days
Over 1000km of coastline Madrid to Soria via some of inland
celebrating the ever-changing Spain’s captivating towns and
Mediterranean. (p373) villages. (p415)
s Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches v Roving La Rioja Wine Region
3–4 Days 2–4 Days
More than touristy resorts on the Discover the wealth of the grape
misunderstood southern coast. on this peaceful countryside drive.
(p389) (p427)
t Northern Spain Pilgrimage
5–7 Days
Roads that crisscross the Camino de
Santiago pilgrim route. (p399)
370
FRANCE Montpellier ]# Avignon ccRcRR
#] : #^ Marseille
#] Toulouse DON'T
MISS
0¸#^ : MtH(P3ue3re5d5simcdoa) RN26(P03Ai4cnR0oe4tAd:moeN) DRO_#(dP3'iRE1c4asR3taAmts) BGeoalufedduec
#] Perpignan Cabo de Gata
:: A slice of arid coastline
that the developers
: :#] : LA VELLA forgot. Fortunately, it’s
: now a natural park and
:Zara:Eg7 oza: :: sports abundant flora
and birdlife. Explore it
:#^ : Lle:#]ida :
/·: :#] Girona ron Trip R
: :: Orchidarium
: R:í Meander through
Europe’s largest orchid
·/ /· GFA23 : collection, in the Costa
: : :AP2 27 ^# B:arcelona del Sol beach town of
o :Ebro: Tar:ragona sEstepona, on Trip
Río
: : #] Covarrubias
/·AP7
VGaollefnocdiae Step behind the walls of
El Maestrazgo Costa del this stunning riverside
Azahar village and into another
]# Teruel
world on Trip u
T úria :#] Castellón de la Badia
Plana (Castelló d'Alcúdia Wine Tasting
de la Plana) #^ La Rioja is home to the
best red wines in Spain –
^#Valencia Palma de bodegas, tours, tastings
Mallorca and museums will
·/A7 inform as you consume
/·AP7 : on Trip v
::
:Ali:ca]#:nEt#]elchBeCloanstcaa
#^ :Murcia MEDITESRERAANEAN
:C#]ostCa:MMaraetnraogrena
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ALGERIA
BENNY MARTY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Gibraltar Upper Rock Nature Reserve
371
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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4
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Mediterranean
27Meander
Follow the Mediterranean coast northeast out of Málaga and you’ll
be contemplating far more than just beach umbrellas. Roman
ruins, heavyweight art, and fabulous festivals also pepper this
surprisingly cultural coastline.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS KmTarragona #1#2 7 DAYS
# 1095 KM /
1095 km 680 MILES
La Rambla
Stretch your legs on GREAT FOR…
one of Europe's finest
boulevards BJ
726 km ##9 BEST TIME TO GO
Ciudad de las Artes y # Xàtiva March to June is
las Ciencias sunny, but not too hot,
See Valencia's and and there are plenty
Spain's new cutting edge of festivals, including
in this futuristic complex Las Fallas.
lL # Cartagena I ESSENTIAL
##1 PHOTO
# Mojácar
The chameleonic
##4 Sagrada Familia
changes every time
Museo Picasso Málaga Cabo de Gata you visit.
Admire the greatest Precious enclave of pure
20th-century master in unblemished K BEST FOR
the city of his birth Mediterranean coastline OUTDOORS
1 km 254 km
Parque Natural de Cabo
de Gata-Nijar.
Barcelona Sagrada Familia 373
: :::
:::::
::
#\ Zamora : #^: :
]# : : #\:Vall:adolid
: Tor:desill:as :
GF /· /·#\
30 A62 A6
#] Salamanca Segovia
#\ #\
27 Mediterranean Pico de Ávila \#
Meander Almanzor
Arenas de
From the Costa Daurada to the Costa del Sol, from (2592m) R #\San Pedro
Plasencia : /·NV
#\ :
Toledo ]#
\#
Navalmoral
de la Mata
Catalan pride in Sitges to Andalucian passion in :
Almería, from the Roman ruins of Tarragona to the : :
Modernisme buildings of Barcelona: this drive #\pr]#o:ves :
: Río Zujar :
::
:#\
that not all southern Spain is a beach bucket of ::: Don Almadén
::: Benito
#\
#\
cheesy tourist clichés. The full 1095km trajectory Peñarroya- PuertollanoRío Jándula
passes through four regions; two languages; Spain’s Pueblonuevo
\#
#\
Pozoblanco
Parque Natural
stoeoconnudm-,etrhouirsd-toancodusnitx.th- largest cities; and beaches lLTRIP HIGHLIGHT R #\ Sierra Norte Córdoba \#
de Sevilla
1 Málaga #^
The Costa del Sol can #\ Lora del Río #^
OÉscu#\injaaLucenLa(1#o\3b8a0Rtmejo)
GFseem wholly soulless #\ \# #\ Loja
Antequera #\
#\ #^ #\ #\ : #^Seville
#\
#\ : #\
:
becoming an art heavy-
: : Arahal
weight to rival Madrid or : Olvera #\ #\
Barcelona. Recent gallery
openings include the :: ]# \#
modernist Centre Pom-
pidou and the evocative Arcos Ronda ##^1 #\
de la /·#\ A7 Málaga
Frontera #\27 Fuengirola Costa
del Sol
until you fall gasping for Museo Ruso de Málaga Tarifa #^ Gibraltar
a shred of culture into (www.coleccionmuseoruso.es; #\
Málaga, an unmistakably
Avenida de Sor Teresa Plat 15;
Spanish metropolis curi- adult/child €8/free; h11am- area near the port with
ously ignored by the lion’s 10pm Tue-Sun; p). They giant murals and groovy
share of the millions of join over 20 established cafes.
tourists who land annu- art nooks anchored by
ally at Pablo Ruíz Picasso the distinguished Museo 5 4 p386
International Airport. Picasso Málaga (www. The Drive » Head east out
museopicassomalaga.org; Calle
Málaga is currently of Málaga on the A7 motorway
on the crest of a wave San Agustín 8; admission €7; towards Almería. This is
and is a great place to southern Spain’s epic coastal
begin this epic 1000km- 10am-8pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to road (also known as European
plus drive. The city that 9pm Fri & Sat) Moving with route 15 or E15) and will be
until 2003 lacked even a the times, Málaga is also your companion for much of
museum to its legendary developing its own arts this trip. The coast gets ever
native son, Picasso, is district, Soho, transform-
ing a former rundown
: ::: :
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\# \#
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:: AP7
]#: /·N4 #\ Sagunto Inca
##^9 Valencia
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\# Espuña R
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e# 0 200 km
0 100 miles
more precipitous as you enter LINK u Historic
Granada province. After 68km YOUR Castilla y León
turn south on the N340 and TRIP
follow it for 8km into Almuñécar. From Barcelona it’s
r Costa del Sol nearly six hours west
2 Almuñécar Beyond the to Madrid, but you’ll
Beaches encounter some of
Granada province’s Spain’s most captivating
cliff-lined, 80km-long Can’t get enough of historic towns and
coast has a hint of Italy’s the Mediterranean? villages.
Amalfi about it, although Jump onto this trip in
it is definitively Spanish Málaga and head all the
way down the coast to
Gibraltar.
375
SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander when you get down to 4-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am- savvy travellers head for
the nitty-gritty. Its warm 1pm Sun) at the top of Almería’s equally hefty
climate – there’s no real a hill overlooking the Alcazaba fortress, which
winter to speak of – lends sea, with fine views and lords it over a city that
it the name, Costa Tropical. another cleverly curated once served as chief sea
The region’s unofficial museum. outlet for the 10th-century
capital is Almuñécar, Córdoba caliphate.
a fiercely traditional The Drive » After 20 years
town that’s a little rough Almería’s old Moorish
around the edges, but in the making, the final links quarter that lies in the
very relaxed. of the A7 around Motril and skirts of the Alcazaba
Salobreña were established hill hasn’t been spruced
Dedicated to beach in 2015 after many delays. up for the tourist hordes,
fun, Almuñécar’s The autopista (toll way) takes meaning it is scruffy, but
seafront is divided by a drivers around the north of very real. Get Moor-
rocky outcrop, the Peñón Motril, bypassing the older ishly acquainted in the
del Santo, with pebbly N340 in the south. As the Alcazaba (Calle Almanzor;
Playa de San Cristóbal landscape gets more arid h9am-7.30pm Tue-Sat Apr–
stretching to its west, you’ll spy increasing numbers mid-Jun, to 3.30pm Tue-Sat
and Playa Puerta del Mar of commercial greenhouses mid-Jun–mid-Sep, to 5.30pm
to the east backed by a punctuating the coastal Tue-Sat mid-Sep–Mar, to
strip of cool cafes. landscape. Almería beckons. 3.30pm Sun all year), or the
Distance from Almuñécar to
The Museo Arque- Almería is 139km. Hammam Aire de
ológico (Calle San Joaquín; Almería (www.aire-
adult/child €2.35/1.60; 3 Almería dealmeria.com; Plaza de la
Constitución 5; 1½hr session
h10am-1.30pm & 4-6.30pm Don’t underestimate incl 15min aromatherapy €23;
Tue-Sat, 10.30am-1pm Sun) in sun-baked Almería, a h10am-10pm), a sanitised
the maze of the old town tough waterside city modern-day version of a
highlights Almuñécar’s with an illustrious Arabic bathhouse. The
ancient Phoenician history and a handful city’s latest sight is the
roots. Tickets include of important historical fantastic Museo de la
entry to the Castillo monuments to prove it. Guitarra (%950 27 43 58;
de San Miguel (Santa While the queues bulge Ronda del Beato Diego Ventaja;
Adela Explanada; adult/child outside Granada’s Al- admission €3; h10.30am-
hambra, mere trickles of 1.30pm Tue-Sun, 6-9pm Fri
€2.35/1.60; h10am-1.30pm & & Sat Jun-Sep, 10am-1pm
Tue-Sun, 5-8pm Fri & Sat Oct-
TOP TIP: May), which documents
TOLL ROADS Almeria’s understated
role in the development
The AP7 (also known as E15), is a toll-charging of the iconic instrument.
autopista (motorway) that parallels much of Spain’s
southern coastline. You will have to stop periodically 5 p386
to pay a toll at manned booths. The total cost for the
route highlighted here will be in the vicinity of €57. The Drive » Head east out of
The confusingly named A7 follows a similar route
to the AP7, but is toll-free. The N340 is a third road Almería on the N344. Cross the
paralleling Spain’s southern coast, although these Río Andarax and pass the airport
days much of it has merged with the A7. Some of the on your right. Fork right onto the
N340 follows the route of the Roman Vía Augustus. ALP202 and at a T-junction turn
right. Follow the road (AL3108)
through low hills into the village
of San José (total distance
40km).
376
THE PICASSO TRAIL SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander
Málaga and Barcelona are linked by more than Mediterranean beaches – both cities
have strong Picasso connections. The great Andalucían painter was born in Málaga
in 1881 and lived there until he was 10, while Barcelona served as his inspiration
and muse in the late 1890s and early 1900s when he intermittently resided in the
Catalan capital. As a result, the start and finish points of this trip stand as important
way-stations in Picasso’s illustrious career and are loaded with plenty of art and
artefacts to investigate.
Málaga guards the painter’s birth house, the diminutive Casa Natal de Picasso
(www.fundacionpicasso.malaga.eu; Plaza de la Merced 15; admission €3; h9.30am-8pm), which
includes a replica of his father’s erstwhile studio. Nearby, and run by the same
foundation, is the Museo Picasso Málaga (%902 44 33 77; www.museopicassomalaga.
org; Calle San Agustín 8; admission €7, incl temporary exhibition €10; h10am-8pm Tue-Thu & Sun,
to 9pm Fri & Sat), which opened in 2003. Barcelona hosts the Museu Picasso (%93
256 30 00; www.museupicasso.bcn.cat; Carrer de Montcada 15-23; adult/child €14/free, temporary
exhibitions adult/child €6.50/free, 3-8pm Sun & 1st Sun of month free; hTue, Wed & Fri-Sun 9am-
7pm, to 9.30pm Thu; mJaume I), which, with over 4000 exhibits, has one of the most
complete Picasso collections in the world.
On a more modest scale, but also worth perusing as you pass through, is
Alicante’s Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (MACA; www.maca-alicante.es; Plaza
Santa María 3; h10am-8pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun) displaying Picasso’s Portrait d’Arthur
Rimbaud (1960); and the Museu Cau Ferrat (www.museusdesitges.cat; Carrer de
Fonollar) in Sitges, encased in the house of Picasso’s friend, the late artist Santiago
Rusiñol.
4 Cabo de Gata ing villages (remember in San José offers a full
them?) remain low-key. range of courses.
If you can find anyone
old enough to remember A good nexus is San The Drive » Follow the
the Costa del Sol before José, with its secluded
the bulldozers arrived, beaches, including Playa AL3108 inland from San José
they’d probably say it de los Genoveses just until you hit the A7 autovia
looked a bit like Cabo southwest of the village. (highway) just shy of Nijar. Head
de Gata. Some of Spain’s Footpaths run along the northeast towards Valencia for
most beautiful and coast in either direction, 43km until the exit for A370,
least-crowded beaches criss-crossing the pro- signposted Mojácar.
are strung between the tected Parque Natural
grand cliffs and capes de Cabo de Gata-Nijar. 5 Mojácar
east of Almería City, They’re good for a short
where dark volcanic hills tentative stroll or a Tucked away in an
tumble into a sparkling full-blown multiday ex- isolated corner of one of
turquoise sea. cursion. The area is also Spain’s most traditional
one of the best places regions Mojácar was
Though Cabo de Gata in Andalucía for diving. almost abandoned in the
is not undiscovered, it Isub (%950 38 00 04; www. mid-20th century until a
still has a wild, elemental isubsanjose.com; Calle Babor foresighted local mayor
feel and its scattered fish- started luring artists and
8; h8.30am-2pm & 4-7.30pm others with giveaway
property offers. Although
Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun Mar-Dec)
377
IMAGE BY CHRIS WINSOR / GETTY IMAGES ©
CALLE MONTES / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
BRENDAN
SAINSBURY,
AUTHOR
Growing up, I always imagined
Spain’s southern coast to be full
of raucous resorts plying 18 to
30 holidays. When I eventually
visited, I found that, in between the
‘Benidorms’, there was as much
culture as after-hours cacophony.
Where else can you find a city more
innately Spanish than Málaga, a
coast more unsullied than Cabo
de Gata, or a Roman amphitheater
more thrillingly sited than
Tarragona’s?
Top: Outdoor dining in Málaga
Left: Tarragona’s Roman amphitheatre
Right: Cabo de Gata
SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meanderthe tourists have arrived,
Mojácar has retained its
UNIVERSAL IMAGES GROUP / GETTY IMAGES © essence.
There are actually two
towns here: old Mojácar
Pueblo, a jumble of white,
cube-shaped houses on a
hilltop 2km inland, and
Mojácar Playa, a modern
beach resort.
Exploring Mojácar
Pueblo is mainly a mat-
ter of wandering the
mazelike streets, with
their bougainvillea-
swathed balconies,
stopping off at craft
shops, galleries and
boutiques. El Mirador del
Castillo, at the top-most
point, has a cafe-bar and
magnificent views. The
fortress-style Iglesia de
Santa María (Calle Iglesia)
dates from 1560 and
may have once been a
mosque.
South of Mojácar
Playa, the beaches are
quieter, and once you get
to the fringes of town,
there are a number of
more secluded areas.
4 p386
The Drive » Retrace your
steps from Mojácar back to the
A7 autovia. After 10km merge
onto the AP7 near Vera. This is
a toll road. Continue until the
exit for Cartagena Oeste. At the
roundabout take the N332 into
the city. Mojácar to Cartagena
is 134km.
6 Cartagena
Cartagena’s fabulous
natural harbour has
been used for thousands
of years. Stand on the
379
SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander battlements of the castle to 3pm Sun) has lots of 7 Alicante
that overlooks this city old pots, flashy lights,
and you can literally buttons to press, films Of all Spain’s mainland
see layer upon layer of to watch and a replica provincial capitals,
history spread below you, Phoenician trading ship, Alicante is the most
from Phoenician traders while the super Museo influenced by tourism,
through Roman legionar- del Teatro Romano (www. thanks to the nearby
ies, Islamic architects teatroromanocartagena.org; airport and resorts.
and the armies of the Plaza del Ayuntamiento 9; Nevertheless, this is
Christian Reconquista adult/child €6/5; h10am- a dynamic, attractive
to the factories of the 6pm or 8pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Spanish city with a
industrial age. Sun) transports visitors castle, old quarter and
via escalators and an long waterfront. The
As archaeologists con- underground passage to eating scene is exciting
tinue to reveal a long- a magnificent, recently and the nightlife is abso-
buried, and fascinating, restored Roman theatre lutely legendary, whether
Roman and Carthagin- dating from the 1st you’re chugging pints
ian heritage, the city century BC. with the stag parties at
is finally starting to 7pm or twirling on the
get the recognition it 5 p386 dance floor with the
deserves. The Museo locals seven hours later.
The Drive » Get back on the
Nacional de Arqueología There are sweeping
Subacuática (Arqua; AP7 towards Alicante (more views over the city from
http://museoarqua.mcu. tolls!). After 75km the autovia the large 16th-century
es; Paseo del Muelle Alfonso rejoins the (free) A7. Follow it
XII 22; adult/child €3/free; for 32km before taking exit 17A Castillo de Santa Bár-
h10am-8pm or 9pm Tue-Sat, signposted Alicante. bara (adult/child €3/1.50;
DETOUR:
ORIHUELA
Start: 6 Cartagena (p379)
Beside the Río Segura and flush with the base of a barren mountain of rock, the
historical heart of Orihuela, with superb Gothic, Renaissance and, especially,
baroque buildings, well merits a detour. The old town is strung out between the river
and a mountain topped by a ruined castle. The main sights are dotted along it, more
or less in a line.
A few of the buildings are particularly worth looking out for. The Convento
de Santo Domingo (Calle Adolfo Claravana; admission €2; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4-7pm or
5-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) is a 16th-century convent with two fine Renaissance
cloisters and a refectory clad in 18th-century tilework. One of the town’s splendid
ecclesiastical buildings is the 14th-century Catalan Gothic Catedral de San
Salvador (Calle Doctor Sarget; h10.30am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-2pm Sat), with
its three finely carved portals and a lovely little cloister. The Renaissance facade of
Iglesia de las Santas Justa y Rufina (Plaza Salesas 1; h10am-1pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri) is
worth admiring, and its Gothic tower is graced with gargoyles.
Orihuela is between the Cartagena and Alicante stops on this trip. To reach it
branch west off the AP7 onto the CV91 around 70km north of Cartagena.
380
DETOUR: SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander
DELTA DE L’ERBE
Start: 9 Valencia (p382)
The delta of the Río Ebre, formed by silt brought down by the river, sticks out 20km
into the Mediterranean near Catalonia’s southern border. Dotted with reedy lagoons
and fringed by dune-backed beaches, this completely flat and exposed wetland,
with Parc Natural Delta de l’Ebre comprising 77 sq km, is northern Spain’s most
important waterbird habitat. The migration season (October and November) sees
the bird population peak, but they are also numerous in winter and spring.
Even if you’re not a twitcher, a visit here is worthwhile for the surreal landscapes
alone. Tiny whitewashed farmhouses seem to float on little islands among green
and brown paddy fields which stretch to the horizon. It’s completely unlike
anywhere else in Catalonia.
The scruffy, sprawling town of Deltebre is at the centre of the delta but push
on from here to smaller villages such as Riumar, the coastal village at the delta’s
easternmost point, or Poblenou del Delta.
To reach Deltebre, branch off AP7 at exit 41, 180km north of Valencia. The town
lies 13km to the east along TV3454.
h10am-10pm Apr-Sep, north, passing through a famous as the birthplace
to 8pm Oct-Mar), which couple of tunnels and heading of the Borgia Popes Ca-
also houses a museum progressively downhill as lixtus III and Alexander
recounting the history it forges an inland route to VI. The town’s glory
of Alicante. If you’re not Valencia. After 106km exit on days ended in 1707 when
up for the steep climb, the CV645 signposted Xàtiva. Felipe V’s troops torched
the city has a couple of It’s 5km to the town itself. most of the town.
good free museums. The
Museo de Arte Contem- 8 Xàtiva What’s interesting in
poráneo de Alicante Xàtiva lies south and
(p377) displays Dalí, Xàtiva (Spanish: Játiva) uphill from the Alameda,
Miró and Picasso, among is often visited on an including the castle
others. The Museu de easy and rewarding (adult/child €2.40/1.20;
Fogueres (Museo de las 50km day trip from Va-
Hogueras; Rambla de Méndez lencia or – in this case – h10am-6pm or 7pm Tue-Sun),
Núñez 29; h10am-2pm & as a stop on the way which clasps to the sum-
5-8pm or 6-9pm Tue-Sat) has north from Alicante. It mit of a double-peaked
photos, costumes and has a small historic quar- hill overlooking the old
an audiovisual presenta- ter and a mighty castle town. Today, behind its
tion of the Fiesta de Sant strung along the crest crumbling battlements
Joan. of the Serra Vernissa, you’ll find a mixture of
at whose base the town flower gardens (bring
5 p386 snuggles. a picnic), tumbledown
turrets and towers, and
The Drive » Leave Alicante The Muslims estab- an excellent museum on
lished Europe’s first pa- medieval life. The walk
on the A77 signposted Valencia. per manufacturing plant up to the castle is a long
After 10km merge onto the in Xàtiva, which is also one, but the views are
A7. The autovia proceeds sensational.
381
OSCAR SÁNCHEZ PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©The Drive » Use N340 to veg farmland La Huerta,
is famous as the home of
SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander rejoin the A7 and head north to rice dishes such as pa-
Valencia. Just outside the city ella, but its buzzy dining
when the A7 merges with the scene offers plenty more Spain, its maze of narrow
AP7, take the V31, Valencia’s besides. cobbled streets encir-
main southern access road cled by steep walls and
for the final 18km into the city 5 4 p387 crowned with a splendid
centre. Catedral (www.catedralde-
The Drive » Leave Valencia on tarragona.com; Plaça de la Seu;
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
the V21 signposted Puçol. After adult/child €5/3; h10am-
9 Valencia 23km you’ll rejoin your reliable
old friend, the AP7. Get your 7pm Mon-Sat mid-Mar–Oct,
Spain’s third-largest city toll money ready! The AP7 is
is a magnificent place, your route for the next 200km, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm
content for Madrid taking you into Catalonia. Take Sat Nov–mid-Mar). A lively
and Barcelona to grab exit 38 and get on the A7 for eating and drinking
the headlines while it the final 35km of the route into scene makes for an entic-
gets on with being a Tarragona. ing stop.
wonderfully liveable city
with thriving cultural, a Tarragona
eating and nightlife
scenes. Never afraid to The eternally sunny
innovate, Valencia has port city of Tarragona
diverted its flood-prone is an improbable mix of
river to the outskirts Mediterranean beach
of town and converted life, Roman history and
the former riverbed medieval alleyways. As
into a wonderful green Spain’s second-most
ribbon of park winding important Roman site,
right through the city. Tarragona has a wealth
On it are the strikingly of ruins, including a
futuristic buildings of seaside amphitheatre
the Ciudad de las Artes where gladiators once
y las Ciencias (City of hacked away at each
Arts & Sciences; www.cac. other (or wild animals) to
es; combined ticket for Ocean- the death.
ogràfic, Hemisfèric & Museo
de las Ciencias Príncipe Felipe The Unesco-listed Ro-
adult/child €36.25/27.55), man sites are scattered
designed by local-boy- around town. Entrance
made-good Santiago tickets can be acquired
Calatrava. Other brilliant at the Museu d’Historia
contemporary buildings de Tarragona (MHT; www.
grace the city, which also museutgn.com; adult/child
has a fistful of fabulous per site €3.30/free, all sites
Modernista architecture, €11.05/free; hsites 9am-
great museums and a 9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun
large, characterful old Easter-Sep, 10am-7pm Tue-Sat,
quarter. 10am-3pm Sun Oct-Easter).
Valencia, surrounded The town’s medieval
by the fertile fruit-and- heart is one of the most
beautifully designed in
382
Sitges A seaside resort with great nightlife
5 4 p387 beach-resort town has the beaches are long and
The Drive » From Tarragona been a favourite with sandy, the tapas bars
upper-class Catalans prolific and the Carnaval
use the N240 to get back onto since the late 19th bacchanalian.
AP7 and head east towards century, as well as a key
Barcelona. After 23km take exit location for the bur- The main beach is
31 onto the C32. Follow this road geoning Modernisme flanked by the attractive
for 31km, crossing one viaduct movement which paved seafront Passeig Maritim,
and burrowing through two the way for the likes of dotted with chiringuitos
tunnels, to Sitges. Picasso. A famous gay (beachside bars) and di-
destination, in July and vided into nine sections
b Sitges August Sitges turns into with different names by a
one big beach party with series of breakwaters.
This lovely fishing- a nightlife to rival Ibiza;
village-turned-pumping- The art highlight is
the recently refurbished
383
SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander Museu Cau Ferrat colossus to rival Paris or 261-265; adult/student/child
(p377), built in the Rome, let alone Madrid.
1890s as a house-cum- Take our ‘stretch your €20.50/16.50/10.25; h9am-
studio by artist Santiago legs’ walk (p442) to
Rusiñol – a pioneer of bag some of its many 8pm Mar-Oct, to 6.30pm
the Modernista move- highlights. The city’s Nov-Feb; mDiagonal) with
ment. The whitewashed ever-evolving symbol is its rooftop chimney pots
mansion is full of his Gaudí’s one-of-a-kind and statues of medieval
own art and that of his Sagrada Familia (%93 207 knights. History lurks
contemporaries, includ- 30 31; www.sagradafamilia. in the Barri Gótic, home
ing his friend Picasso, to La Catedral (%93 342
as well as a couple of El cat; Carrer de Mallorca 401; 82 62; www.catedralbcn.org;
Grecos.
adult/child under 11yr/senior Plaça de la Seu; admission free,
The Drive » It’s only 40km
& student €14.80/free/12.80; special visit €6, choir admis-
to Barcelona! Get back onto the
C32 and pay your last cursed h9am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm sion €2.80; h8am-12.45pm &
toll. Fly through a multitude of Oct-Mar; mSagrada Família),
tunnels. After 30km of driving, which rises like an un- 5.15-7.30pm Mon-Sat, special
take exit 168 and follow the finished symphony over
signs for Barcelona, Gran Via L’Eixample district. The visit 1-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun
and Centre Ciutat. surounding grid is well & holidays; mJaume I), while
known for the whimsical the modern hip crowd
TRIP HIGHLIGHT waves of Modernisme congregate in the Born, a
architecture, a style ex- subneighbourhood of La
c Barcelona pounded most eleoquent- Ribera quarter.
ly in La Pedrera (Casa Milà;
Barcelona is a guidebook %90 220 21 38; www.lapedrera. A good orientation
in itself and a cultural point in this complex
com; Carrer de Provença city is the legendary
(and much copied) La
Rambla (mCatalunya, Liceu
or Drassanes), a tree-lined
LEGACY OF THE ROMANS
What did the Romans ever do for us? Well, quite a lot actually, an assertion
that rapidly gains validity as you drive northeast up the Mediterranean coast
of Spain.
The Roman colonies in Hispania (their name for the Iberian peninsula) lasted
from around 400BC to 200BC and reminders of their existence are spread all
along the coast from Andalucía up to Catalonia. The three main stops for Roma-
philes are Málaga, Cartagena and Tarragona, all once flourishing Roman cities
whose pasts equal or outweigh their present profiles in modern Spain. Málaga’s
Roman amphitheatre (%951 50 11 15; Calle Alcazabilla 8), nestled beneath its
Alcazaba, was rediscovered in 1951 and dates from the 1st century AD when the
settlement was called Malaca. An adjacent interpretive centre has touch screens
and displays artefacts dug up from the site. Cartagena (Carthago Nova to the
Romans) has multiple Roman sights including villas, a theatre and parts of an old
wall. The history is all pulled together at the new-ish Museo del Teatro Romano
(p380), where you can buy a museum pass for all the sights. Tarragona (Tarraco)
was once capital of Rome’s Spanish provinces and has ruins to prove it, including
an amphitheatre, a forum, street foundations and the Aqüeducte Romà (Pont
del Diable; admission free; h9am-dusk), a glorious two-tiered aqueduct. Wonderful
ocean-themed mosaics can be seen in the nearby Museu Nacional Arqueològic
de Tarragona (www.mnat.cat; Plaça del Rei 5; adult/child €2.40/free; h9.30am-6pm Tue-Sat,
10am-2pm Sun).
384
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander
FESTIVALS
If you’re undertaking this trip in February, March or August, look out for the
following festivals.
Feria de Malaga (hmid-Aug) Málaga’s nine-day feria (fair), launched by a huge
fireworks display, is the most ebullient of Andalucía’s summer ferias. It resembles
a mad Rio-style street party with plenty of flamenco and fino (sherry); head for the
city centre to be in the thick of it. At night, festivities switch to large fairgrounds and
nightly rock and flamenco shows at Cortijo de Torres, 3km southwest of the city
centre; special buses run from all over the city.
Las Fallas de San José (www.fallas.es; hMarch) The exuberant, anarchic swirl of Las
Fallas de San José – fireworks, music, festive bonfires and all-night partying – is
a must if you’re visiting the city of Valencia in mid-March. The fallas themselves
are huge sculptures of papier mâché on wood built by teams of local artists. Each
neighbourhood sponsors its own falla.
Sitges Carnaval (www.sitges.com/carnaval) Carnaval in Sitges is a week-long booze-
soaked riot made just for the extroverted and exhibitionist, complete with masked
balls and capped by extravagant gay parades held on the Sunday and the Tuesday
night, featuring flamboyantly dressed drag queens, giant sound systems and a wild
all-night party with bars staying open until dawn. Held in February/March; dates
change from year to year.
pedestrian promenade Ribera from El Raval. and gardens of Montjuic,
which was made with the To the northeast lies the site of the 1992 Olympics.
evening paseo (stroll) in Modernisme-inspired
mind. La Rambla divides L’Eixample quarter; to the 5 4 p387
the Barri Gòtic and La south are the steep parks
385
Eating & Sleeping
SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander Málaga 1 Mojácar 5
5 El Mesón de Tapas, Argentinian €€ 4 Hostal El Olívar Hostal €
Cervantes (%950 47 20 02; www.hostalelolivar.es; Calle
(%952 21 62 74; www.elmesondecervantes.com; Estación Nueva 11, Mojácar Pueblo; s/d incl
Calle Álamos 11; mains €13-16; h7pm-midnight breakfast €38/59; aiW) A stylish and
Wed-Mon) Cervantes started as a humble tapas welcoming addition to the Mojácar Pueblo
bar run by expat Argentinian Gabriel Spatz (the options, the Olívar has contemporary, pretty
original bar is still operating around the corner), rooms with up-to-date bathrooms and tea/
but has expanded into plush spacious digs with coffee sets. Some overlook a plaza, others the
an open kitchen, fantastic family-style service countryside. Breakfast is generous and you
and incredible meat dishes. can take it on a panoramic terrace, when the
4 Molina Lario Hotel €€ weather is decent.
(%952 06 20 02; www.hotelmolinalario.com; Cartagena 6
Calle Molina Lario 20-22; r €116-130; aWs)
Perfect for romancing couples, this hotel 5 Techos Bajos Seafood €€
has a sophisticated contemporary feel with
spacious rooms decorated in a cool palette (www.techosbajos.com; Calle Joaquín Madrid;
of earthy colours. There are crisp white dishes €7-16; h9.30am-4pm Tue-Sun, plus 7pm-
linens, marshmallow-soft pillows and tasteful midnight Fri & Sat) Locals absolutely flood this
paintings, plus a fabulous rooftop terrace and large, no-frills kind of place at lunchtime for its
pool with views to the sea. Situated within well-priced portions of fresh fish and seafood.
confessional distance of the cathedral. You’ll find it down the hill from the bus station,
right opposite the fishing port.
Almería 3 Alicante 7
5 Casa Puga Tapas € 5 Cervecería Sento Tapas €
(www.barcasapuga.es; Calle Jovellanos 7; wine &
tapa €2.80; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon- (Calle Teniente Coronel Chápuli 1; tapas €2-8;
Sat, closed Wed evening) The undisputed tapas h10am-5pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Superb,
champ (since it opened in 1870) is Casa Puga; quality montaditos (little rolls) and grilled
make it an early stop, as it fills up fast. Shelves things are the reason to squeeze into this
of ancient wine bottles, and walls plastered with brilliant little bar. Watching the nonstop staff
everything from lottery tickets to ancient maps, in action is quite an experience too. They’ve
are the backdrop for a tiny cooking station that got a bigger branch nearby, but this has the
churns out saucers of tasty stews and griddled atmosphere.
meats, fish, mushrooms and shrimps.
386
Valencia 9 Barcelona c
5 Delicat Tapas, Fusion €€ 5 Quimet i Quimet Tapas €€
(%963 92 33 57; Calle Conde Almodóvar 4; (%93 442 31 42; Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes 25;
mains €9-14; h1-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Tue- tapas €4-11; hnoon-4pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Fri,
Sat, 1-4pm Sun) At this particularly friendly, noon-4pm Sat & Sun; mParal·lel) Quimet i
intimate option (there are only nine tables, plus Quimet is a family-run business that has been
the terrace in summer), Catina, up front, and passed down from generation to generation.
her partner, Paco, on full view in the kitchen, There’s barely space to swing a calamar (squid)
offer an unbeatable-value, five-course menu in this bottle-lined, standing-room-only place, SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander
of samplers for lunch and a range of truly but it is a treat for the palate, with montaditos
innovative tapas anytime. made to order. Let the folk behind the bar advise
4 Caro Hotel Hotel €€€ you, and order a drop of fine wine to accompany
(%963 05 90 00; www.carohotel.com; Calle the food.
Almirante 14; r €143-214; paW) Housed in 5 Tapas 24 Tapas €€
a sumptuous 19th-century mansion, this sits (%93 488 09 77; www.carlesabellan.com; Carrer
atop some 2000 years of Valencian history, with de la Diputació 269; tapas €4-9; h9am-midnight
restoration revealing a hefty hunk of the Arab Mon-Sat; mPasseig de Gràcia) Carles Abellan,
wall, Roman column bases and Gothic arches. master of Comerç 24 in La Ribera, runs this
Each room is furnished in soothing dark shades, basement tapas haven known for its gourmet
has a great king-sized bed, and varnished versions of old faves. Specials include the bikini
cement floors. Bathrooms are tops. For that (toasted ham and cheese sandwich – here
very special occasion, reserve the 1st-floor the ham is cured and the truffle makes all the
grand suite, once the ballroom. Savour, too, its difference) and a thick black arròs negre de sípia
excellent restaurant Alma del Temple. (squid-ink black rice).
4 Five Rooms Boutique Hotel €€
Tarragona a (%93 342 78 80; www.thefiverooms.com; Carrer
5 AQ Catalan €€ de Pau Claris 72; s/d from €155/165; aiW;
mUrquinaona) Like they say, there are five
(%977 21 59 54; www.aq-restaurant.com; rooms (standard rooms and suites) in this
Carrer de les Coques 7; degustation €40-50; 1st-floor flat virtually on the border between
h1.30-3.30pm & 8.30-11pm Tue-Sat) This is a L’Eixample and the old centre of town. Each
bubbly designer haunt alongside the cathedral is different and features include broad, firm
with stark colour contrasts (black, lemon and beds, stretches of exposed brick wall, mosaic
cream linen), slick lines and intriguing plays on tiles and minimalist decor. There are also two
traditional cooking. One of the two degustation apartments.
menus is the way to go here, or the weekday 4 DO Boutique Hotel €€€
lunch menú for €18. (%93 481 36 66; www.hoteldoreial.com;
4 Hotel Plaça de la Font Hotel €€ Plaça Reial 1; s/d from €230/280; aWs;
(%977 24 61 34; www.hotelpdelafont.com; Plaça mLiceu) Overlooking the magnificent plaza for
de la Font 26; s/d €55/75; aW) Comfortable which it is named, this 18-room property has
modern rooms, with photos of Tarragona handsomely designed rooms, set with beamed
monuments above the bed, overlook a bustling ceilings, wide plank floors and all-important
terrace in a you-can’t-get-more-central-than- soundproofing. The service is excellent, and the
this location, right on the popular Plaça de facilities extensive, with roof terrace (with bar
la Font. The ones at the front are pretty well in summer), dipping pool, solarium and spa. Its
soundproofed and have tiny balconies for excellent market-to-table restaurants draw in
people-watching. visiting foodies.
387
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HOLGER LEUE / GETTY IMAGES © Costa del Sol
Beyond the
28Beaches
This coast-hugging trip travels via a sparkling tiara of holiday
resorts, as well as some little known gems and a diamond of a
capital: Málaga.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 3–4 DAYS
195 KM / 121 MILES
77 km 58 km GREAT FOR…
Torremolinos Málaga
Dine on fresh seafood Get high on culture at H
in La Carihuela Málaga’s superb
museums BEST TIME TO GO
##2 Ll Visit from March to
##3 June or September
# Nerja to November, when
# temperatures are
##6 cooler and traffic less.
Fuengirola
# I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
Estepona
The old town in
Km# Gibraltar Marbella, especially
when the bougainvillea
Marbella is in bloom.
Explore Marbella’s
picturesque historic K BEST FOR
centre FAMILIES
118 km
Beaches, theme parks
and the Andalucian
mentality (everyone
loves kids), makes this a
super-family-friendly trip.
389
Málaga
Costa del Sol
28 Beyond the
Beaches
This drive, running from Nerja in the east to Gibraltar in the west, travels via
a landscape that constantly shifts and changes: from orchards of subtropical
fruit trees to shimmering white urbanisations; a culture-loving metropolis to
the cobbled backstreets of a former fishing village. Be prepared for a journey
that constantly challenges any preconceived ideas you may have about this,
Spain’s most famous, tourist-driven coast. #\
\# \#
#\
0¸ GF 0¸A376 ‚
286 km to 33 A92
Campillos R Peña de los
#\ #\ Bobadilla
Almargen Enamorados
#\
Olvera N342
\#
¸0#\Coripe Teba#\ Embalse del Antequera \# (880m)
Conde del
E(l13T3o6rcma)lR
/· 0¸Villamartín c
\#
Algodonales Setenil de las Guadalhorce #\ Valle de A45 A356 #\ Riogordo \#
\# #\Bodegas El Ardales #\ Abdalajis
Palomas \#
0¸Embalse
¸0de Bornos Comarés
El Torreón dEemZabhaalsrea A343 Casabermeja#\ Parque
(1654m) A357 Natural
c Puerta de las
\# Grazalema
H#El Bosque \# R c Montes de
Burgo #\ Álora
#\ p392 Málaga
Puerto del #\ Yunquera #\ Pizarra
T(o1r9r1e8cmill)a #\ #\ Alozaina Cártama Benajarafe
Boyar Benaoján\# Ronda Málaga
¸0 ¸0 # ·/ # ## #/·#El(E8P(18lRi0c2A9aRmlc1jlamJih#\)biomFL)eraeUoACNSnnbAlacaat3rPoet3uiduaq3rrcr1nearueqa#\oedulcLae#\aloessCasa#\#\rGedCFsreaoou#\rlnatcetíensErAas3t69eBpeo#\7nnahaaPvíaSsriA#\qe7NrureiaeMRNv\#deaeIasst#\rltu#\aPBábrsuanaeenll#\rlú#\a6tTsoo#\loOxjenCCo\#MoíMnisjaitj#\asa#\\#sLdEAaell\#5hGCM\#4#\arauiajlFaraníusnde#\eTnogr#\rieB\#r3oqeAulnTa7eaob2l^#mrrraáeddmaeonalindRCeoionssl#\catóaVnictor#\ia
¸0A405 San Pedro
#\ Manilva de Alcántara dCeolsStaol
Castellar de la Guadiaro
Frontera #\
\#
#\
0¸A381 Sotogrande
·/San A7
Roque
#\
Los Barrios #\ La Línea de MEDITESRERAANEAN
Algeciras \# Km#\ la Concepción
Pelayo #\
##^8 Gibraltar
#\ Tarifa
1 Nerja DETOUR:
FRIGILIANA
In a charmed spot sit-
ting at the base of the
Sierra Almijara peaks,
this former fishing Start: 1 Nerja SPAIN 28 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches
village has retained its
low-rise village charm, After the cavernous gloom of the Cueva de Nerja,
despite the proliferation consider heading inland to Frigiliana, a pueblos blanco
of souvenir shops and voted as the prettiest in Andalucía by the Spanish
day trippers. At its heart tourism authority. It’s well signposted: take the M5105
is the Balcón de Europa, inland from Nerja, passing groves of mango and
one of the most beautiful avocado trees and follow signs to the casco historico
promenades on the Costa and car park. Frigiliana is famed for its sweet local wine
del Sol, built on the site and honey, which you can buy at small village shops. It
of a Moorish castle. Grab is an enchanting place with a tangible Moroccan feel;
a coffee at one of the ter- read the plaques around town to learn why – the village
stretches back to the time of the Moors.
raced cafes before head-
ing north of town to visit de Nerja (www.cuevade
the extraordinary Cueva nerja.es; adult/child €9/5; The Drive » Consider taking
the slightly slower, but more
#\ hunguided visit 10am-1pm & scenic, N340 to Rincón de
#\\#4#\-5.30pm Sep-Jun, 10am-6pm la Victoria, then pick up the
BZaofqaurerateyade \# Alhama de Jul & Aug; guided visit 1-2pm & A7-E15 bypass to Málaga. This
Granada #\5.3#\0-6.30pm Sep-Jun, 11am- meandering coastal road passes
c Maroma #\noon & 6.30-7.30pm Jul & Aug), through pretty agricultural
(2069m) Parque Natural dating back a cool five land. Look for the centuries-old
R Sierras de Tejeda, million years: it’s a 4km watchtowers from the days of
Almijara y Alhama long theatrical wonder- Barbarian invaders. It’s a total
R El Lucero drive of 58km (1¼ hours).
Vélez Cómpeta (1779m) #\ land of extraordinary
\# rock formations, subtle TRIP HIGHLIGHT
H#Málaga shifting colours and sta-
#\ lactites and stalagmites. 2 Málaga
·/A7
Frigiliana Almuñécar #\ Book a one- or two-night
Torrox #\ p391 stay here to experience
5 p397 the city’s buzzing bar life
#\
#lLFG#\#\ 27 \#
#\1
Torre #\ Nerja #\
del Mar
Torrox
Costa
TrCoopsitcaal LINK
YOUR
TRIP
r Mediterranean x Alentejo &
Meander Algarve Beaches
Málaga is the start of this For more stunning coast,
east-coast ramble that head west via Seville to the
takes in several of the Portuguese border then
most stunning cities in on to Cacela Velha to do
Spain, including its final the Algarve trip in reverse.
destination: Barcelona. (349km).
e# 0 20 km 391
0 10 miles
SPAIN 28 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches and increasingly sophis- Lario; cathedral & museum This is a busy stretch of autovia
ticated foodie scene. Mál- €5, tower €6; h10am-6pm (highway) that passes the
aga has also emerged as Mon-Sat), then duck inside airport. It’s a drive of 18.5km or
a serious cultural capital, to admire the gorgeous 25 minutes.
with some 30 museums, retables and stash of
including the Museo 18th-century religious TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Carmen Thyssen (www. art. Travel further back
carmenthyssenmalaga.org; in time by visiting the 3 Torremolinos
Alcazaba (Calle Alcazabilla;
Calle Compañía 10; admission admission €2.20, incl Castillo de Start your exploration in
Gibralfaro €3.40; h9.30am- the centre of town with a
€4.50, incl temporary exhibition 8pm Tue-Sun), a fascinating meander down pedes-
€9; h10am-7.30pm Tue-Sun), 11th-century Moorish trian Calle San Miguel,
the Museo Ruso (%951 92 palace-fortress. Across lined with shops, cafes
61 50; www.coleccionmuseo- from the entrance – and and bars. Continue as
the street winds down to
ruso.es; Avenida de Sor Teresa Roman Amphitheatre steps which lead to Play-
(%951 50 11 15; Calle Alca- amar, the main beach.
Plat 15; adult/child €8/free; zabilla 8) – Batik (%952 22 Turn right for one of the
h11am-10pm Tue-Sun; p), 10 45; www.batikmalaga.com; most delightful walks
and the Museo del Vidrio Calle Alcazabilla 12; mains €12- on the Costa, round the
y Cristal (Museum of Glass & 20; h10am-midnight; W) is rocky headland to La
Crystal; %952 22 02 71; www. an atmospheric place for Carihuela; the former
a drink and innovative fishing barrio (neigh-
museovidrioycristalmalaga. bite to eat. bourhood) which is now,
fittingly, home to some
com; Plazuela Santísimo Cristo 5 4 p397 superb seafood restau-
rants such as Casa Juan
de la Sangre 2; admission €5; The Drive » Leaving Málaga, (www.losmellizos.net; Calle
h11am-7pm Tue-Sun), a San Ginés 20, La Carihuela;
private collection that take the A7 in the direction of mains €13-20). This paseo
concentrates on glass and Algecíras, Torremolinos and (walk) continues to the
crystal. Climb the tower Cádiz, then follow the MA20
for fabulous views from signposted to Torremolinos.
the landmark 16th-century
Catedral de Málaga
(%952 21 59 17; Calle Molina
DETOUR:
COMARÉS
Start: 2 Málaga (p391)
Heading inland, northeast of Málaga, brings you to La Axarquía, a stunning rugged
region, great for hiking, and stippled with pretty unspoiled pueblos (villages). A
highlight of the area is, quite literally, Comarés which sits like a snowdrift upon
a lofty mountain (739m) commanding spectacular views of the surrounding
mountain range and coast. Wander the tangle of narrow lanes and don’t miss
the remarkable summit cemetery. There are also several walking trails that start
from here; stop by the small ayuntamiento (town hall) on Plaza de la Axarquía for
more information and maps. The village is home to several bars and a couple of
restaurants, as well as a small supermarket for self-caterers. Get here via the A45
autovia (highway), direction Granada, Córdoba and Seville, take the Casabermeja
exit and follow signs to Comarés via the A356 (through Riogordo) and the MA159.
The journey totals 55km and should take you roughly one hour.
392
Puerto Deportivo de TOP TIP: SPAIN 28 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches
Benalmádena, striking TOLL ROAD AP7
for its Gaudí-cum-Asian-
cum-Mr Whippy–style If you are travelling in July and August, consider
architecture, and large taking the AP7 toll road, at least between Fuengirola
choice of bars, restau- and Marbella as the A7 can become dangerously
rants and shops overlook- congested. This particular A7 stretch (formerly part of
ing the boats (one of the N340) used to be notorious for accidents; however,
which reputedly belongs the situation has improved since the introduction of a
to actor celeb and native 80km/h speed limit in former trouble spots.
malagueño Antonio
Banderes). very well, with no cages cobbled streets, dipping
or bars, but, rather, spa- into the tapas bars and
5 p397 cious enclosures and con- shopping for souvenirs.
The Drive » Continue on the servation and breeding Be sure to walk up to the
programs. Plaza de Toros (museum €3;
N340, which hugs the coast and h10am-8pm); an unusual
passes through the busy coastal 5 p397 square-shaped bullring
resort of Benalmádena Costa. The Drive » From Fuengirola’s at the top of the village,
Note that there is a 50km speed surrounded by lush
limit on this scenic stretch. central Renfe train station, take ornamental gardens with
Avenida Alcalde Clemente Díaz spectacular views of the
4 Fuengirola Ruiz inland. Cross the autovia A7 coast. Mijas also has a
and continue on the Carretera large foreign resident
The appeal of Fuengirola de Mijas. In Mijas follow signs population and a vigor-
lies in the fact that it is a to the underground carpark (€1 ous calendar of events,
genuine Spanish working for 24 hours). This 7km journey including live flamenco
town, as well as a popular should take around 10 minutes. shows in the main
resort. There is a large plaza every Wednesday
foreign resident popula- 5 Mijas at noon, an annual blues
tion here as well, many festival in July and
of whom arrived here in The pueblo blanco regular concerts in the
the ’60s and stayed after (white village) of Mijas auditorium.
their ponytails went grey. has retained its sugar-
Grab a (bar) chair in cube cuteness despite The Drive » Return to the A7
pretty flower-festooned being on the coach-tour
Plaza de la Constitucíon, circuit. Art buffs should autovia. This double carriageway
which is overlooked by check out the Centro passes through the most
the baroque facade of the de Arte Contemporá- densely built span of the entire
church, then explore the neo de Mijas (CAC; www. Costa, with urbanisations such
surrounding narrow pe- cacmijas.info; Calle Málaga 28; as Calahonda and Miraflores
destrian streets flanked admission €3; h10am-7pm that date from the 1980s,
by idiosyncratic small Tue-Sun) contemporary when the Costa was at its peak
shops and tapas bars. The art museum, with its of popularity and expansion.
excellent Bioparc (%952 second-largest collec- Continue west along here until
66 63 01; www.bioparcfuengiro- tion of Picasso ceramics you reach the exit for Marbella;
la.es; Avenida Camilo José Cela; in the world. Otherwise a total drive of 33km or 25
adult/child €18/13; h10am- this village is all about minutes.
sunset; p), northwest of strolling the narrow
here, is the Costa’s best
zoo and treats its animals
393
HOLGER LEUE / LOOK-FOTO / GETTY IMAGES ©
KEN WELSH / ALAMY © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
JOSEPHINE
QUINTERO, AUTHOR
My home for two decades, the
Costa del Sol is changing all the
time and definitely for the better.
Whatever you already know about
this coast, one fact is for sure – it is
extraordinary: both crazily diverse
and supremely entertaining. In other
words, I have ensured there’s never
a dull moment on this classic drive –
and there shouldn’t be dull weather
either – it’s called ‘the sunshine
coast’ for good reason.
Top: Gibraltar ape perched high above the town
Left: Resort life in Marbella
Right: Estepona’s pretty balconied houses
SPAIN 28 Costa del Sol Beyond the BeachesTRIP HIGHLIGHT
MONYSASI / GETTY IMAGES © 6 Marbella
Marbella is the Costa
del Sol’s classiest ‘rich
and famous’ resort and
is a good choice for an
overnight stop. This town
has a magnificent natural
setting, sheltered by the
beautiful Sierra Blanca
mountains, as well as a
gorgeous old town with
pristine white houses,
narrow traffic-free streets
and geranium-filled
balconies. At its heart is
picturesque Plaza de los
Naranjos, dating back to
1485 with tropical plants,
palms and orange trees.
From here walk to the
coastal promenade via
the lush Parque de la
Alameda gardens with its
fountains and tiled seats.
Next consider a gentle
stroll east along the sea-
front towards the luxuri-
ous marina of Puerto
Banús, past the five-star
resorts of the Marbella
Club and Puente Ro-
mano, the latter named
after the still-standing
Roman bridge, once part
of the Via Augustus link-
ing Càdiz to Rome. It’s
6km in total to the port
if you decide to stride out
all the way.
5 4 p397
The Drive » Continue
due west on the A7 autovia,
signposted to Algeciras and
Cádiz. This stretch of highway is
less built up and passes by San
Pedro de la Alcántera, as well
as five golf courses (they don’t
395
SPAIN 28 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches nickname this the Costa del Golf The Drive » For the final leg Den, the Great Siege
for nothing!). It’s a snappy 20 Tunnels (h9.30am-6.15pm),
minutes or just 24km to your consider taking the AP7 toll road the Moorish castle, the
next stop: Estepona. for the first 20km (12 minutes, Military Heritage Centre,
€3.50) as the N340 coastal and the 100-tonne gun.
7 Estepona stretch here is very slow, with The Rock’s most famous
numerous roundabouts. At inhabitants, however,
This is the Costa del Sol Guadiaro the AP7 merges with are the tailless Barbary
resort which is most the A7 for the rest of the 34km macaques. Some of the
intrinsically Spanish, journey. Consider a refreshment 200 apes hang around
with a charming historic stop at swanky Sotogrande the top cable-car station
centre of narrow cobbled harbour; Sotogorande is while others are found
streets flanked by simple also home to Spain’s leading at the Apes’ Den. Most
pueblo houses decorated golf course, the Real Club Gibraltar soujourns start
by well-tended pots of ge- Valderrama. in Grand Casemates Sq, a
raniums. Make a beeline jolly place surrounded by
for the historic Plaza de 8 Gibraltar bars and restaurants, but
las Flores square with with a grim history as
its fountain centrepoint, Red pillar boxes, fish- the site of public execu-
orange trees and handy and-chips shops, bobbies tions. Learn more about
tourist office, where you on the beat and creaky the Rock’s history at the
can stop for a town map. seaside hotels. Stuck fine Gibraltar Museum
Highlights here include strategically at the jaws (www.gibmuseum.gi; 18-20
the fabulous Orchidarium of Europe and Africa,
(www.orchidariumestepona.es; Gibraltar’s Palladian Bomb House Lane; adult/
Calle Terraza 86; h11am-2pm architecture and camera-
& 5-9pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to hogging Barbary apes child £2/1; h10am-6pm
11pm Fri & Sat), with the create an interesting Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat); don’t
largest orchid collection contrast and finale to miss the well-preserved
in Europe, some 1500 your journey. Highlights Muslim bathhouse and
species, plus subtropical on ‘the Rock’ include an intricately painted
plants, flowers and trees. the Upper Rock Nature 7th-century-BC Egyptian
A meandering path takes Reserve (adult/child incl mummy that washed up
you through the exhibi- attractions £10/5, vehicle £2, here in the late 1800s.
tion space and past a pedestrian excl attractions
dramatic 17m-high water- £0.50; h9am-6.15pm, last
fall. Estepona’s Puerto entry 5.45pm), one of the
Deportivo is excellent for most dramatic landforms
water sports, as well as in southern Europe. En-
bars and restaurants. try tickets include admis-
sion to the extraordinary
5 p397 St Michael’s Cave (St
Michael’s Rd; h9am-5.45pm,
to 6.15pm Apr-Oct), the Apes’
396
Eating & Sleeping
Nerja 1 include a delicious salmorejo (thick garlicky
gazpacho), barbecued sardines, and almejas
5 Oliva Modern European €€€ (clams) in a spicy paprika-based sauce. The
terrace fronts onto the sand.
(%952 52 29 88; www.restauranteoliva.com;
Calle Pintada 7; mains €19-23; h1-4pm & Fuengirola 4
7-11pm) Impeccable service, single orchids, a
drum-and-bass soundtrack and a charcoal- 5 La Cepa Seafood € SPAIN 28 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches
grey-and-green colour scheme; in short, this (Plaza Yate 21; tapas €3, mains €7-10; hnoon-
place has class. The menu is reassuringly brief 4pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat, to 3.30pm Sun) Hidden
and changes regularly according to what’s in away on an attractive bar-and-restaurant-lined
season. The inventive dishes combine unlikely square, the menu concentrates on seafood,
ingredients such as pistachio falafel and including such tentacle ticklers as fried squid,
mango panna cotta with black-olive caramel. and prawns wrapped in bacon.
Reservations recommended.
Málaga 2 Marbella 5
5 Uvedoble Taberna Tapas € 5 El Estrecho Tapas €
(www.uvedobletaberna.com; Calle Císter 15; (Calle San Lázaro; tapas €2.50-3.50; hnoon-
tapas €2.70; h12.30-4pm & 8pm-midnight midnight) It’s always crammed, so elbow your
Mon-Sat; W) There’s not much elbow room at way to a space in the small back dining room
this slick contemporary place, but this local and order from a massive menu that includes
tapas hotspot is planning to expand to meet the tapas such as salmorejo (gazpacho) and
demand for their famously popular seafood- seafood salad.
based tapas such as fideos negro tostada con
calamaritos (toasted black noodles with baby 4 Hotel San Cristóbal Hotel €€
squid), and grilled octopus with potatoes and (%952 86 20 44; www.hotelsancristobal.com;
chives. Avenida Ramñon y Cajal 3; s/d incl breakfast
4 El Hotel del Pintor Boutique Hotel €€ €60/85; W) Dating back to the ’60s, this
(%952 06 09 81; www.hoteldelpintor.com; Calle solid midrange hotel has recently revamped
Álamos 27; s/d €59/70; aiW) The red, black
and white colour scheme of this friendly, small rooms sporting tasteful pale-grey and cream
hotel echoes the abstract artwork of malagueño
artist Pepe Bornov, whose paintings are on decor contrasting with smart navy fabrics.
permanent display throughout the public areas
and rooms. Although convenient for most of the Most rooms have balconies and a pool is being
city’s main sights, pack your earplugs, as the
rooms in the front can be noisy, especially on a planned.
Saturday night.
Estepona 6
5 La Esquina del Arte Tapas €
(Calle Villa; tapas €2-3; hnoon-midnight
Torremolinos 3 Mon-Sat; W) This place may be in the middle
of the historic centre but there is nothing old
5 El Cordobes Andalucian €€ fashioned about the creative tapas and pintxos
(Basque tapas) here. Expect tasty bites such
(Playamar; mains €12-15; c) The best of the as prawns wrapped in flaky pastry, pâté with
beachside chiringuitos (seafront restaurants), fig jam and peppers stuffed with salt cod. It has
attracting a loyal Spanish clientele. Specialities excellent wines by the glass.
397
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