Eating & Sleeping
Geneva 1 Bern 4
5 Brasserie des Halles European €€ 5 Altes Tramdepot Swiss €€
de l’Île (%031 368 14 15; www.altestramdepot.ch; Am
(%022 311 08 88; www.brasseriedeshallesdelile. Bärengraben; mains Sfr18-37; h11am-12.30am)
ch; Place de l’Île 1; mains Sfr20-50; h10.30am- At this cavernous microbrewery, Swiss staples
midnight Sun & Mon, to 1am Tue-Thu, to 2am compete against microbrews for your appetite. SWITZERLAND 38 Geneva to Zürich
Fri & Sat) An old market hall on an island, this 4 Hotel Goldener Schlüssel Hotel €€
industrial-style venue produces a cocktail of (%031 311 02 16; www.goldener-schluessel.ch;
Rathausgasse 72; s Sfr148-185, d Sfr190-260;
aperitifs, after-dark DJs and fresh fare. Best seat W) This comfortable 500-year-old hotel has
updated rooms in the Old Town.
in the house is a terrace hanging over the water.
Fribourg 2
5 Le Port Cafe, Bar €€ Lucerne 7
(%026 321 22 26; www.leport.ch; Planche- 5 Grottino 1313 Italian €€
Inférieure 5; h10am-11pm Tue-Sun) In a former (%041 610 13 13; www.grottino1313.ch;
gas warehouse on the banks of the Sarine, the Industriestrasse 7; 2-course lunch menu Sfr20;
Port bursts with energy. Hang out on its shady h11am-2pm & 6-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 6-11.30pm
riverside terrace enjoying lunchtime platters, or Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) A welcome escape, this
live bands and dancing at night. relaxed yet stylish eatery with a candlelit
4 Auberge aux 4 Boutique Hotel €€ interior serves seasonal menus featuring
Vents creative pasta dishes, meats cooked over an
(%026 347 36 00; www.aux4vents.ch; Res Balzli open fire and scrumptious desserts.
Grandfrey 124; s Sfr130-170, d Sfr180-260, s/d/ 4 Château Gütsch Hotel €€€
tr/q with shared bathroom Sfr65/130/170/200; (%041 289 14 14; www.chateau-guetsch.ch;
ps) ‘Stylish’ scarcely does justice to this Kanonenstrasse; d Sfr330-570, ste Sfr445-1260;
eight-room inn, with its dreamy Blue Room W) The setting is incomparable at this fairy-tale
sporting a bathtub that rolls out on rails through hilltop palace dating from 1888. Many rooms
the window for a soak beneath the stars. and suites enjoy sweeping views over Lake
Lucerne, as do the bar and breakfast terrace.
Interlaken 3 The decor features lavish details such as silver
claw-footed bathtubs.
4 Victoria-Jungfrau Grand
Luxury Hotel €€€
Hotel & Spa Zürich 9
(%033 828 26 10; www.victoria-jungfrau.ch;
Höheweg 41; d Sfr400-800, ste Sfr600-1000; 5 Alpenrose Swiss €€
piWs) The impeccable service here (%044 271 39 19; Fabrikstrasse 12; mains
evokes a bygone era, with the perfect melding Sfr26-42; h11am-midnight Wed-Fri, 6.15-11pm
of well-preserved art-nouveau features, modern Sat & Sun) With its timber-clad walls, ‘No
luxury, stellar dining and plum Jungfrau views. Polka Dancing’ warning and multiregional
Swiss cuisine, the Alpenrose exudes charm.
Specialities include Pizokel, a savoury kind of
Spätzli (egg noodles) from Graubünden.
549
NEED TO ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
KNOW
Climate
CURRENCY
Basel
Swiss franc (official GO Jul & Aug, Dec
abbreviation CHF, also Sfr)
#
LANGUAGE
# GZüOriAcphr–Aug
German (p520), French
(p196), Italian (p110), # Bern & Aug, Nov
Romansch GO Jul
VISAS Swiss Alps
GO late Dec–early Apr,
Generally not required for May–Aug
stays of up to 90 days;
some nationalities need a # GGeOnAenvyatime,
Schengen visa. Jun–Sep
FUEL Warm to hot summers, mild winters
Warm to hot summers, cold winters
Petrol stations are common Mild summers, cold winters
on main roads and highways, Cold climate
and in larger towns. Polar climate, below zero year round
Unleaded costs around
Sfr1.55 per litre and diesel is When to Go
Sfr1.53. High Season (Jul–Aug & Dec–Apr)
»»In July and August walkers and cyclists hit high-altitude trails.
RENTAL CARS »»Christmas and New Year see serious snow-sports action on
Auto Europe (www. the slopes.
autoeurope.com)
»»Late December to early April is high season in ski resorts.
Avis (www.avis.com)
Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep)
Europcar (www.europcar. »»Look for accommodation deals in ski resorts and traveller
com)
hotspots.
Hertz (www.hertz.com)
»»Spring is idyllic with warm temperatures, flowers and local
IMPORTANT NUMBERS
produce.
Europe-wide emergency
covering police, fire and »»Watch the grape harvest in autumn.
ambulance (%112)
Low Season (Oct–Mar)
»»Mountain resorts go into snooze mode from mid-October to
early December.
»»Prices are up to 50% less than in high season.
»»Sights and restaurants are open fewer days and shorter
hours.
550
Daily Costs The following prices indicate Internet Access
Budget: Less than the cost of a two-course set
Sfr200 menu. Wi-fi (usually free) is available to
»»Dorm bed: Sfr30–60 guests in most hotels, B&Bs and
»»Free admission to some € less than Sfr25 hostels. Also offered by many
€€ Sfr25–50 cafes, bars, train stations and
museums on first Saturday or €€€ more than Sfr50 other public spaces.
Sunday of every month
Sleeping Money
»»Lunch out (up to Sfr25) and
Hotels From budget to luxury; ATMs widely available in cities
self-cater after dark breakfast included unless and towns, rarely in villages.
indicated. Cash is king almost everywhere;
Midrange: Sfr200–300 Pensiones Chambres d’hôte credit cards are not widely
»»Double room in two- or three- in French-speaking Switzerland; accepted.
rates always include breakfast.
star hotel: Sfr200–350 Hostels In cities and large Tipping
towns; private or HI-affiliated.
»»Dish of the day (tagesteller, Price symbols indicate the cost Tipping is not necessary, given
of a double room with private that hotels, restaurants, bars
plat du jour, piatto del giorno) bathroom in high season: and even some taxis are legally
or fixed two-course menu: required to include a 15% service
Sfr40–70 € less than Sfr170 charge in bills.
€€ Sfr170–350 You can round up the bill after
Top End: More than €€€ more than Sfr350 a meal for good service, as
Sfr300 locals do.
»»Double room in four- or five- Arriving in Switzerland Hotel and railway porters expect
Zürich Airport a franc or two per bag.
star hotel: from Sfr350 Bargaining is non-existent.
Trains To Zürich centre, 6am to
»»Lower rates Friday to Sunday midnight (Sfr7, 14 minutes). Useful Websites
Taxis Sfr50 to Sfr70, 20
in city business hotels minutes to centre. Lonely Planet
(lonelyplanet.com) Travel tips,
»»Three-course dinner in an Mobile Phones (Cell accommodation, traveller
Phones) forums and more.
upmarket restaurant: from My Switzerland (www.
Sfr100 Most European and Australian myswitzerland.com) Swiss
phones function; turn off tourist board.
Eating roaming to avoid data charges. ADAC (www.adac.de) Driving
Buy a local SIM for cheaper information for Germany and
Cafes Coffee, drinks, snacks. rates. neighbouring countries.
Bistros Light meals to full-
blown dinners.
Restaurants Simple eateries
to Michelin-starred temples.
Vegetarian Few wholly
vegetarian places, limited
choices on most menus.
551
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
STRETCH Jardin Anglais
YOUR LEGS
GENEVA Before strolling up the hill to the Old
Town, visit the flower clock in Geneva’s
Start: Jardin Anglais waterfront garden (Quai du Général-Guisan),
Finish: Place du Bourg-de-Four landscaped in 1854 on the site of an old
Distance: 2km lumber-handling port and merchant
Duration: Three hours yard. The Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock),
Geneva’s most photographed clock, is
Geneva’s beautiful Old Town (Vieille crafted from 6500 plants and has ticked
Ville) is the perfect spot for a since 1955. Its second hand, 2.5m long, is
charmingly edifying stroll, thanks to claimed to be the world’s longest.
its mix of sights and a history lesson
worthy of its status as one of the The Walk » From the clock, cross Quai du
Protestant Reformation’s key cities.
Général-Guisan. Head south through the shopping
Take this walk on Trip district to Cour de St-Pierre, which faces the
cathedral. It’s about a seven-minute stroll.
}
Cathédrale St-Pierre
Begun in the 11th century, Geneva’s
cathedral (www.espace-saint-pierre.ch; Cour
de St-Pierre; admission free, towers adult/
child Sfr5/2; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat,
noon-6.30pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-5.30pm Oct-
May) is predominantly Gothic with an
18th-century neoclassical facade. Be-
tween 1536–64 Protestant John Calvin
preached here; see his uncomfortable-
looking seat in the north aisle. Inside
the cathedral, 77 steps spiral up to
the attic – a fascinating glimpse at
its architectural construction – from
where another 40 lead to the top of
the panoramic northern and southern
towers (adult/child Sfr5/2). Views of
the Old Town and the Jet d’Eau are
marvellous. In summer, free carillon
(5pm) and organ (6pm) concerts fill the
cathedral and its surrounding square
with music.
The Walk » Exit the cathedral and head for the
Site Archéologique de la Cathédrale St-Pierre; a
few dozen footsteps should cover it.
Site Archéologique de la
Cathédrale St-Pierre
This small archaeological site (%022 310
29 29; www.site-archeologique.ch; Cour St-Pierre;
adult/child Sfr8/4; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) in the
basement of Cathédrale St-Pierre has 4th-
century mosaics in the Roman crypt and
the tomb of an Allobrogian chieftain. Its
552
e# 0 Pl du Q du Général-Guisa#.n Jardin
0 Anglais
L&200 m
0.1 miles
Pl de la
Fusterie
# Jardin
Anglais
R de la Cité Molard Pl du R Versonnex
R de la Corraterie
R du Marché R Neuve du Molard Port R du Rhône
Bd du Théâtre Gran R de la Madeleine Pl Longemalle RMadîteRrleadRsusTdeoPuruirP-nocret
R de Rive
d-K&RamBPpaaesrdct#eidolaenRTssPrdreoeimRllleaeuneCadreoCdixeR-asRSBdtotah-usuPtgéiPoieenudrsirtresaldeIBneoSRtleSutaMo-rrlPnRgeutieiPa-élsle-ddLtélfraeieoeroVvc-reianFlemn#le#aotde#luSCuriSCat#tote-uhPrAiéeddrrercrehaRéleoCSlhotag-rPilqeiRseuBddreGdauriJnaedVaellqieaeunueldxsa-CDoalllècgroeze
Fontaine
R du Général Dufour Pl la
Neuve
R de
R Ver
R de l'Hô
R du Conseil-Général e
R de la Fontaine
entrance is at the right of the cathedral’s longest bench. Turn down Rampe de la Treille and
main portico. follow it to the park’s gates.
The Walk » Head to the other side of the Parc des Bastions
cathedral (a one-minute walk) to spend an hour at It’s all statues – plus free life-size chess
the Reformation Museum. boards hosting lively games – in green
Parc des Bastions. A laid-back stroll
Musée International de with locals along its tree-lined prom-
la Réforme enade reveals the 4.5m-tall po-faced
figures of Bèze, Calvin, Farel and Knox
This modern museum (%022 310 24 on Reformation Wall, which stretches
31; www.musee-reforme.ch; Rue du Cloître 4; for 100m. There are play facilities for
adult/child Sfr13/6; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) in kids and a skating rink in winter.
an 18th-century mansion has state-of-
the-art exhibits on the Reformation: The Walk » From Promenade des Bastion’s
printed bibles, the emergence of 16th-
century Geneva as ‘Protestant Rome’, eastern end, walk along Rue St-Léger. Continue
John Calvin and present-day Protes- under the bridge and ahead until Place du Bourg-
tantism. A combined ticket covering de-Four ends at the fountained terrace area.
the museum, Cathédrale St-Pierre and
Site Archéologique de la Cathédrale St- Place du Bourg-de-Four
Pierre is Sfr18/10 per adult/child.
Eateries, bars and locals crowd Place
The Walk » From Cour de St-Pierre, walk down du Bourg-de-Four, Geneva’s oldest
square. In summer, it’s filled to burst-
Rue Otto Barblan. Turn left onto Rue du Puits- ing with gossiping local denizens.
St-Pierre and continue past Maison Tavel (the Stalwart La Clémence (%022 312 24 98;
city’s longest-standing private residence, now a www.laclemence.ch; Place du Bourg-de-Four 20;
museum) to the bottom of Rue Henri Fazy, which h7am-1am Mon-Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri & Sat) is
overlooks Parc des Bastions and has the world’s a popular place to linger over a coffee.
553
Austria
AUSTRIA IS A ROAD-TRIPPERS FANTASY
LAND. Not only are there spectacular
backdrops of spellbinding landscapes and
storybook architecture, but opportunities
abound to get out and experience them. Along
these routes, you can scale soaring peaks, ski
year-round, raft white-water rapids and pelt
down toboggan runs.
When you’ve had enough thrills and spills,
Austria’s multitude of cultural pursuits span
medieval castles to monumental palaces, art-
filled museums and magnificent churches. You
can taste cheese at Alpine dairies, schnapps at
distilleries, and beer and wine in monasteries
where they’re still made by monks. Or just hop
aboard a horse-drawn carriage to clip-clop
through cobbled, lamp-lit city streets.
Grossglockner Road Heiligenblut
IOAN PANAITE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
#\ Weissenburg Regensberg Frauenau Vitava
Altmühltal #\ \#
Nature Park /·#] Regen
Ingolstadt A3
Austria \# \#
#\ Straubing
Grafenau
/·E45 \# Landshut
(DaDnounbaeu) #\Tittling
GERMANY Passau
]#Augsburg FG\#
40
#\
Schärding
\#
Braunau
·/A7 #^ Munich Burghausen \# am Inn Wels \#
Memmingen #\ Fünfseenland
Landsberg #\ Ammersee#\
am Lech Wurmsee Rosenheim Chiemsee
\# #\ Salzburg
/· GF ·/ ·/ /· GF ¸0/· GF0¸#\FGSLCetaoalnkdl#\#\lesekCVt\#inarahcnAduh1cu4re#^z#\BDraeL#\Kvigone3\#sgme9e\#npnztae#\unIs\##\chglL#\aZn(ud2ge9#\FSsc6üpök3siltmdszee#\e)\#nnRU#\KPmre#\aGAhbr1atas2erubnmsakeci#]IisnhrnccnhhAs-1e3bnruMcEa4k5yrh#\\#oKfAuefsnsKctihetzai#\nHNbuüaoGhthiereooln\#Ts#\aasSlgu(PLl3te3oa7irJec99nroBknk8hnezRmnrecnr\#)h#\\#tN#\eSFGPsaugBuasa\#telcdft#]reahecllndhteBAe1n15s08gaHd3aBe91lnl6s6t\#a\#GtT#\\#tRmaBemüanAB#\\#nsdnuawdwIdssesecgeghel
#\
Merano \#
SWITZERLAND NPaarzcioonale #\ #\ Bressanone Oberdrauburg#\ /·Spittal an B98
Moritz dello Stelvio
#\St Parco Naturale der Drau
Fanes-Sennes- Villa#\ch
Braies
\# Bormio #\ ITALY Arta Ter\#me #\
Bolzano Tarvisio
·/E45 \# Predazzo R \#
Triglav
Parco (2864m)
dell'Adamello
\# #\ #\ #\ #\
\# #\
~ Grossglockner Road 5–7 Days ¤ Along the Dan\#ube 2–4 Days
Twist and turn along three of Aus- Follow the Danube River as it flows
tria’s most spectacular mountain passes. through forests and vineyards. (p569)
(p559)
556
eCZECH REPUBLIC # 0 100 km DON'T
0 50 miles MISS
#\ České Znojmo ·/E65 Hodonin Lake Swimming
Budějovice #\
#\ Many of Austria’s
Břeclav \# Alp-framed lakes reach
Olsinsky Gm#\und ·/E49 temperatures of up to
Rybnik Horn 28°C in summer. Dive
\# ~into one on Trip
#\ Salzburg
#\ #\ Freistadt Zwettl Krems an Famed for its starring
der Donau role in The Sound of
Bad #\ Kefermarkt Stockerau SLOVAKIA Music, Salzburg’s
Leonfelden #\ \# BRATISLAVA Unesco-listed Altstadt
GF40 /·S33 VIENNA (old town) is a treasure.
#] Linz /·A1 #_ _#
Visit on Trip ~
#\ ^# \#
Pöchlarn St Pölten #\
\# Traun ·/E60 \#
Hiking
Amstetten #\
\# Steyr Through forests, up
Waidhofen\# Gaming #\ Alland Wiener NeuLsaikede ler waterfa#\ll trails, down
Lilienfeld Neustadt Sopron gorges, along wildflower-
\# strewn meadows…You’ll
\# find some of Austria’s
NKatailoknaalplpeanrk #\ Mariazell #\
~best hiking on Trip
Göstling #\
#\
Gloggnitz
\# Vienna
·/Liezen S31
\# Oberpullendorf With its resplendent
AUSTRIA Murzzuschlag #\ palaces, magnificent
museums and opera
\# house, Austria’s capital
is the belle of the
Leoben \# Oberwart country’s ball. Waltz by
Bruck
Unzmarkt- ·/#\ Sarvar on Trip ¤
Frauenburg Hartberg #\ \# B55
\#
\# #\ Peggau Gleisdorf
#\ Graz \# #\ Szombathely
HUNGARY
¸0Murau B317
#]
·/ ·/Friesach\# Treibach- E66 #\
#\ Althofen
E57 Feldbach #\
Deutschlandsberg
\# Zalaegerszeg
\# St Andrä
Klagenfurt #\ Völkermarkt \#Redics
#\ ]# Maribor \#
Ravne na Nagykanizsa
·/B82 Koroškem
\# SLOVENIA ur
Bled #\
Celje
MCROATIA
FEEL GOOD STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©!
Salzburg View over the city
557
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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2
3
4
5
6
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a
b
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2567
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TRANCEDRUMER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Grossglockner
39Road
Austria’s most exhilarating trip takes you on a wild roller-coaster
drive over three legendary Alpine passes and packs in outdoor
activities from year-round skiing to windsurfing and white-water
rafting.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 5–7 DAYS
644 KM / 401 MILES
335 km
Gerlos Alpine Road GREAT FOR…
Sing along the yodel
hiking trail J
lL BEST TIME TO GO
# Salzburg
The peak time to
Km ## 7 #4 tackle this trip is
# Bregenz midsummer.
#10 Innsbruck #
I ESSENTIAL
Lienz PHOTO
Europe’s highest
waterfalls, the three-
tiered Krimmler
Wasserfälle.
Silvretta High Alpine Grossglockner High K BEST FOR
Road Alpine Road DRIVERS
Mountains reflect in Traverse Austria's
the aquamarine highest mountain The Grossglockner’s
reservoir 36 heart-in-your-mouth
225 km hairpin bends.
526 km
Grossglockner High Alpine Road Alpine meadow 559
39 Grossglockner \# Dachau
Road
Fair warning: if you’re a faint-hearted driver (or passenger), this probably
isn’t the trip for you. (Take the gentler Tyrol & Vorarlberg route instead).
But if you’re up for a serious adventure, this Austrian classic provides an
opportunity to experience epic scenery, invigorating Alpine sports, and
dizzying mountain passes with so many switchbacks they’re used by high-
performance car manufacturers and championship race drivers as test
#\ tracks.
e# 0 50 km
0 25 miles
Fünfseenland
Ammersee
#\
\# Memmingen #\ Landsberg
Kaufbeuren
\# Bad am Lech Wurmsee
Waldsee #\
GF35 \# Weilheim
#\ Leutkirch Marktoberdorf \# Schongau
\# Ravensburg \# \#
GERMANY Wieskirche #\
Kempten \#
Friedrichshafen #\ Wangen Bannwaldsee Oberammergau #\
\#
\# Kochel
\# Füssen \# Garmisch-
KmRo\#mKarnesuhzolrinng#\eCnonLsatkaencLeinda\#u Alpsee Nesselwan\#g
#\ Partenkirchen
Arbon\# #1^#2 Bregenz Sonthofen #\ #\
¸0Dornbirn \# Lingenau
\# B190 \# Egg Mittenwald #\
Zugspitze R
#\
#\# 11 Rappenlochschlucht
St Gallen Krebsbach #\ Seefeld
Appenzell \# Hohenems \# Mittelberg #\ ##]9
Nesslau Feldkirch /·Innsbruck A13
Imst\# ·/A12
¸0/·#\ #\ B183
A14
LIECHTENSTEIN
‚ Walensee
Bludenz Umhausen
#\
0¸ ¸0 444H#30kmto #\\# Landeck
GF38
#\ #
Stubaital
#\ Schruns
Längenfeld \#
R B188 B188 GStlaucbiaeir p566
Grauspitze Vipiteno#\
Sölden #\
44 4444SWITZERLAND #\Landquart
#Partenen \# Ischgl
#\
10 Silvretta High
Alpine Road
444 4444\#Chur
\# Davos
444Swiss 4 4 4\# Merano
#\ National #\
Park #\
\#
1 Salzburg ing to hidden courtyards Beyond city stroll-
and medieval squares ing, there are plenty of
Salzburg’s trophy sights framed by burgher opportunities to get
huddle in the pedestri- houses and baroque active, from swimming
anised, Unesco World fountains. You’ll also see at Freibad Leopoldskron
Heritage–listed Altstadt plenty of icons from the (Leopoldskronstrasse 50;
(old town). The tangled evergreen musical The adult/concession €4.60/2.60;
lanes are made for a ser- Sound of Music. h9am-7pm May–mid-Sep),
endipitous wander, lead- Salzburg’s biggest lido,
with diving boards, water
LINK slides and volleyball, to AUSTRIA 39 Grossglockner Road
YOUR hiking up Salzburg’s rival
TRIP mountains, the 540m
Mönchsberg and 640m
achau z The Romantic } Geneva to Kapuzinerberg. Both
Road Zürich mountains are thickly
wooded and criss-crossed
Strike north after Mountains, pastures, by walking trails, with
Innsbruck to find a lakes and small-town photogenic views of the
ribbon of historical charm, book-ende#\d by
quaintness running #\ Switzerland’s biggest \#
through Bavaria’s cities.. \#
western reaches.
Vöcklamarkt \# Vöcklabruck
\#
Ll #\
##]1 Salzburg \# St Gilgen Gmunden
Rosenheim Schloss
\# Herrenchiemsee
\#
Bad Tölz Bad Reichenhall \# \# Bad Ischl
Unterse#\e
\# #\ Hallein
Berchtesgaden \# Kuchl
#\
#\ Golling
¸0Berchtesgaden NP B159
\# Kufstein
Wörgl \#St Johnn #Werfen 2
#\ \# Saalfelden #\
Jenbach Kitzbühel \# Sankt Schladming
\# Johann
#5 Zell am See #\ Tamsweg
#\
¸0 ¸0 ¸0 ¸0·/ #A12\#Watt#\SecnhswaBz169#\AschGauerlRoso7aAdlpB1in65e
Uttendorf B311 #\ Rennweg
#\ \# B168 #\ Bruck
Bramberg \# Fusch
B107
¸0 ¸0#Zell am 8 B165 ·/A10
44444 44#Ziller \#Mayrhofen
6 AUSTRIA #\ Bad
Krimmler Grossglockner Hofgastein
# Grossglockner
\#4 High Alpine Road
4444444444Wasserfälle (3798m)R
\# Kals
44444444¸0 44\# ITALY
Hohe Tauern B1#\07 #\ Obervellach \#Gmünd
NaPtaiorknal
Ainet #\
#\ Winklern #\
##\
4Brunico \#3 Spittal an
#\ der Drau
·/Lienz E66 #\
#\ #\
\# Oberdraubur#\g
Techendorf
Sillian Obe#\rtilliach
\# Kötschach
\# Bressanone Parco 561
Naturale Fanes-
Sennes-Braies
\# #\ \# \# \# \#
#\ #\
AUSTRIA 39 Grossglockner Road Altstadt’s right bank and (which you can visit on a trip €34.50/24.50; hMay-early
left bank, respectively. through the Carinthian Lakes) Nov) swings giddily
and turn west onto the B100/ around 36 switchbacks,
The Drive » It’s 47km south E66 through the Drau Valley to passing jewel-coloured
Lienz (166km in total). lakes, forested slopes and
from Salzburg on the B159 above-the-clouds glaciers
to Werfen, mostly along the 3 Lienz as it traverses the heart
Salzach River. After passing of the Hohe Tauern
through a wide valley, you’ll Ringed by Dolomite peaks National Park, peaking at
enter a tight, steep gorge; follow blushing reddish-pink at the bell-shaped Gross-
it until Werfen. sunset, Lienz straddles glockner (3798m), Aus-
the Isel and Drau Rivers, tria’s highest mountain.
2 Werfen and lies just 40km north
of Italy. An ancient Roman En route, flag-dotted
More than 1000m above settlement, today it’s a
Werfen in the Tennenge- famed ski town (for its Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe
birge mountains is Eis- Zettersfeld and Hochstein (2369m) has memorable
riesenwelt (www.eisriesen peaks, and especially its views of Grossglockner
welt.at; adult/child €11/6, incl 100km of cross-country and the rapidly retreat-
cable car €22/12; h8am- trails), but it has an ener- ing Pasterze Glacier (best
3.45pm May-Oct, to 4.45pm Jul getic vibe year-round. appreciated on the short
& Aug). Billed as the world’s and easy Gamsgrubenweg
largest accessible ice caves, If you want to get and Gletscherweg trails).
this glittering ice spectacle up into the mountains, Allow time to see the
spans 30,000 sq metres Bergstatt (%0516-5835; glacier-themed exhibition
and 42km of narrow pas- www.bergstatt.at; Kranewitweg at the visitor centre and
sages burrowing deep into 5; rock climbing trips per adult/ the crystalline Wilhelm-
the heart of the moun- child from €75/55) has guides Swarovski observatory.
tains. A highlight is the who can lead you on half-
cavernous Eispalast (ice day, full-day and multiday Get your camera handy
palace), where the frost rock-climbing, via ferrata for Fuscher Törl (2428m),
crystals twinkle when a or summit trips. with super views on both
magnesium flare is held up sides of the ridge, and
to them. Wrap up warmly The Drive » Take the B107 Fuscher Lacke (2262m), a
for subzero temperatures. gemstone of a lake nearby.
Photography is not permit- north, passing picturesque A small exhibition docu-
ted inside the caves. villages including Winklern ments the construction
(with a wonderful Alpine hotel; of the road, built by 3000
On a wooded clifftop p567) and Heiligenblut (look men over five years during
beneath the majestic peaks for the needle-thin spire of the Great Depression.
of the Tennengebirge its pilgrimage church) to the
range, formidable fortress Grossglockner High Alpine Road A 2km side road cork-
Burg Hohenwerfen (adult/ toll gates (43km in total). screws up to Edelweiss
child/family €11/6/26.50, incl lift Spitze (2571m), the road’s
€14.50/8/34.50; h9am-5pm TRIP HIGHLIGHT highest viewpoint. Climb
Apr-Oct; c) dates from 1077. the tower for 360-degree
Time your visit to be at the 4 Grossglockner views of more than 30
castle by 3.15pm for the High Alpine Road peaks topping 3000m.
falconry show.
A stupendous feat of Between toll gates, all
4 p567 1930s engineering, the attractions are free. Check
48km Grossglockner the forecast before you
The Drive » Take the A10 Road (www.grossglockner. hit the road, as the drive
at; Hwy 107; car/motorcycle is not much fun in heavy
south to the Millstätter See
562
fog, snow or a storm. It’s TOP TIP:
often bumper-to-bumper ALPINE ROAD TOLLS
by noon, especially in
July and August; beat the Be aware that this trip’s three top-draw drives –
crowds by setting out early. Grossglockner High Alpine Road, Gerlos Alpine Road
and Silvretta High Alpine Road (p566) – incur
The Drive » Descend the tolls. There’s also a smaller toll on the detour to the
Stubaital (p566). Toll booths accept cash and credit
Grossglockner on the B107 cards.
to Bruck and take the B311
northeast to Zell am See. It’s 4km one way (about a begin at 10.30am every AUSTRIA 39 Grossglockner Road
2½-hour round-trip walk). Wednesday from late
5 Zell am See June to mid-September at
The Drive » From the falls, it’s the Dorfbahn (adult/child
Resort town Zell am See’s €9/4.50) cable-car station;
brightly painted chalets 7.7km (and eight hairpin bends) to reserve by 5pm the previ-
line the shore of the deep- the Gerlos Alpine Road toll gates. ous day by phone.
blue Zeller See, framed
by the Hohe Tauern’s TRIP HIGHLIGHT The Drive » Continue west
snowcapped peaks.
7 Gerlos Alpine Road on the B165, passing the
Mountain breezes reservoir Durlassboden, before
create ideal conditions Open year-round, the descending to Zell am Ziller
for windsurfing on the Gerlos Alpine Road (www. along six hairpin bends (63km
lake; Windsurfcenter Zell gerlosstrasse.at; toll per car/ in total).
Am See (%0664-644 36 95; motorcycle €8.50/5.50) winds
http://windsurfcenter.members. 12km through high moor 8 Zell am Ziller
cablelink.at; Seespitzstrasse 13; and spruce forest, reach-
windsurfing/SUP/wetsuit rental ing an elevation of 1630m. At the foot of knife-edge
per hr €10/8/3; hdawn-dusk The lookout above the Reichenspitze (3303m),
May-Sep) rents equipment turquoise Stausee (reser- Zell am Ziller is a former
and runs courses. voir) is a great picnic stop, gold-mining centre and
with a tremendous vista of popular ski base.
The Drive » From the lake, the Alps.
Year-round, you can
it’s 54km to the Krimmler If you have the urge to take a wild toboggan ride
Wasserfälle. Head west on the burst out into song as you on the 1.45km-long Arena
B168 and B165 to Krimml; skip through wildflower- Coaster (www.zillertalarena.
when you arrive in the town the strewn meadows, take com; Zillertal Arena; adult/
waterfalls come into view. the 4.8km-long Jodel child coaster only €4.80/2.90,
Wanderweg (Yodel Hiking incl cable car €20.90/10.40;
6 Krimmler Trail; %06565-82 43; www. h9.30am-6pm late Jun-early
Wasserfälle jodelweg.at) in Königsleiten. Sep, shorter hours rest of year;
You can go it alone and c), which incorporates
Europe’s highest falls, at practise your high notes both a 360-degree loop
380m, are the thunder- at eight stops with giant and a 540-degree loop. It’s
ous, three-tier Krimmler cowbells, alpine horns accessible by cable car, or
Wasserfälle (Krimml Falls; and listen-repeat audio a steep 1.5km walk.
www.wasserfaelle-krimml.at; clippings. Alternatively,
adult/child €3/1; hticket office join a free guided sing Aktivzentrum Zillertal
8am-6pm mid-Apr–Oct). The ’n’ stroll hike with trail (%0664-505 95 94; www.
Wasserfallweg (Waterfall founder Christian Eder. aktivzentrum-zillertal.at;
Trail), which starts at the The three-hour ambles Freizeitpark Zell; c) offers
ticket office and weaves up-
hill through mixed forest,
has up-close viewpoints.
563
PAUL BIRIS / GETTY IMAGES ©
VIEW PICTURES / CONTRIBUTOR / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
CATHERINE LE
NEVEZ, WRITER
Awe-inspiring mountainscapes
and adrenaline-pumping activities
abound on this alpine itinerary, but
the ultimate draw is the drive itself,
peaking with its trio of dizzying
high-altitude switchback passes –
the Grossglockner High Alpine Road,
Gerlos Alpine Road and Silvretta
High Alpine Road. This is a route
that reminds you that the highlight
of road-tripping isn’t the destination
but the journey.
Top: Racing along Grossglockner High Alpine Road
Left: Bergisel ski jump in Innsbruck
Right: Krimmler Wasserfälle (Krimml Falls)
AUSTRIA 39 Grossglockner Roadparagliding (€55 to €130),
white-water rafting on
HSVRS / GETTY IMAGES © the Ziller (€35), canyoning
(€35 to €65), via ferrata
climbing (€45 to €85) and
llama trekking (€20).
4 p567
The Drive » Zell am Ziller sits
60km from Innsbruck. Take the
B169 north then the A12 west.
9 Innsbruck
Hit Innsbruck’s cultural at-
tractions, then head up to
its ski jump, the Bergisel
(www.bergisel.info; adult/child
€9.50/4.50; h9am-6pm),
for a spectacular city and
mountain panorama. Ris-
ing above Innsbruck like
a celestial staircase, the
glass-and-steel structure
was designed by Iraqi
architect Zaha Hadid.
Hadid also designed
the space-age funicular
Nordkettenbahnen (www.
nordkette.com; one-way/return
to Hungerburg €4.60/7.60,
Seegrube €16.50/27.50,
Hafelekar €18.30/30.50;
hHungerburg 7am-7.15pm
Mon-Fri, 8am-7.15pm Sat &
Sun, Seegrube 8.30am-5.30pm
daily, Hafelekar 9am-5pm daily),
which whizzes from the
Congress Centre to the
slopes every 15 minutes.
Walking trails head off in
all directions from Hun-
gerburg and Seegrube.
5 4 p567
The Drive » Leave Innsbruck
on the westbound A12 and veer
southwest on the B188, passing
a string of ski towns, to the
Silvretta High Alpine Road toll
gates (118km all up).
565
AUSTRIA 39 Grossglockner Road TRIP HIGHLIGHT DETOUR:
STUBAITAL
a Silvretta High
Alpine Road Start: 9 Innsbruck (p565)
Silhouetted by the Sil- Slip out of sandals and into skis at year-round skiing
vretta range and crowned magnet, Stubai Glacier. A one-day summer ski pass
by the 3312m arrow of Piz (www.stubaier-gletscher.com) costs €43/21.50 per adult/
Buin, the Montafon Valley child and covers 26 lifts accessing 62km of slopes. Ski
remains one of the most or snowboard and boot rental costs around €30/15
serene and unspoilt in the per adult/child. Summer skiing is between 2900m
Austrian Alps. and 3300m and is dependent on weather conditions.
The 23km-long Sil- Lower down in the Stubai Valley, the
vretta High Alpine Road Wildewasserweg waterfall trail wends for 9.2km
(www.silvretta-bielerhoehe. (one way) to Sulzenau Glacier. En route, it passes
at; car/motorcycle €15/12; the spectacular Grawa falls; there’s a cafe with a
hearly Jun-late Oct) twists panoramic viewing deck at its base.
and turns beneath peaks
rising to well over 2500m The Stubai Glacier is just 38km south of
before climbing over the Innsbruck. Take the A13 south to the toll gates (per
2036m Bielerhöhe Pass via car including passengers €3); keep right to take the
34 tight switchbacks. At B183 southwest along the valley.
the top of the pass, the Sil-
vretta Stausee (2030m), 19th-century cotton mill Germany, to the left,
an aquamarine reservoir, is the unlikely home of the Switzerland.
mirrors the surrounding world’s largest collection
peaks on bright mornings. of Rolls-Royces at the A cable car (www.
Rolls-Royce Museum (www. pfaenderbahn.at; Steinbruch-
The Drive » It’s 100km to rolls-royce-museum.at; Gütle 11a; gasse 4; one-way adult/child
adult/child €9/4.50; h10am- €7.10/5.70, return €12.20/9.80;
Rappenlochschlucht. Continue 6pm daily Jul & Aug, 10am-6pm h8am-7pm Dec-Oct) glides
on the B188 and join the A14 Tue-Sun Feb-Jun & Sep-Nov). up the Pfänder. At the
at aromatic Bludenz. Continue top, a 30-minute circular
northwest to Dornbirn, from The Drive » Return to trail brings you close to
where Rappenlochschlucht is deer, wild boar, ibex and
4km southeast on Gütlestrasse. Dornbirn and head north on the whistling marmots at the
B190 for 16km to Bregenz. year-round Alpine Game
b Rappenloch- Park Pfänder (www.pfaender.
schlucht c Bregenz at; Pfänder; hsunrise-sunset).
The Rappenlochschlucht Bregenz sits on the shores Some 5km south of cen-
(Rappenloch Gorge; www. of Lake Constance (in Ger- tral Bregenz is the nature
rappenlochschlucht.at) man, Bodensee), Europe’s reserve Rheindelta (www.
was gouged out by the third-largest lake. The rheindelta.org). Its mossy
thundering Dornbirner views here are extraor- marshes, reeds and wood-
Ache. From the car park, dinary: before you the lands attract more than
there’s a 375m trail to the mirror-like lake; behind 300 bird species, including
Staufensee, a turquoise you, 1064m-high mountain curlews, grey herons and
lake ringed by forest. the Pfänder, to the right, rare black-tailed godwits.
At the bottom of the 5 4 p567
Rappenlochschlucht, a
566
Eating & Sleeping
Werfen 2 Sat, 4pm-midnight Sun) Take a gastronomic walk
on the wild side at this modern-day hunter-
4 Weisses Rössl Pension € gatherer of a restaurant, where chefs take pride
in local sourcing and using top-notch farm-fresh
(%06468-5268; Markt 39; s/d €30/52) In the and foraged ingredients. The menu sings of the
seasons, be it asparagus, game, strawberries or
village centre, this good-value pension has great winter veg. The vibe is urbane and relaxed.
views of the fortress and the Tennengebirge AUSTRIA 39 Grossglockner Road
from its rooftop terrace. Rooms are a blast from 4 Weisses Rössl Guesthouse €€
the 1970s, but all are large and cosy with sofas (%0512-58 30 57; www.roessl.at; Kiebachgasse
and cable TV. 8; s €70-110, d €100-160; iW) An antique
rocking horse greets you at this 16th-century
Winklern guesthouse. The vaulted entrance leads up
4 Hotel Tauernstern Chalet €€ to spacious rooms recently revamped with
blond wood, fresh hues and crisp white linen.
(%04822-7205; www.tauernstern.at; Winklern The owner is a keen hunter and the restaurant
24, Winklern; s/d from €49/98; pW) (mains €10 to €18) has a meaty menu.
Sweeping valley views extend from the timber
balconies of this mountain-set gem. Four- Bregenz c
poster pine-and-stone beds, in-room fridges,
a sauna and spa built from local wood and 5 Gebhardsberg Austrian €€
slate, and an exceptional gourmet restaurant (%05574-908 61 60; www.greber.cc;
using ingredients from local farms all make Gebhardsbergstrasse 1; mains €14-26.50;
Tauernstern a fabulous pit stop before tackling h11.30am-10pm daily May-Sep, 11.30am-10pm
the Grossglockner High Alpine Road. Tue-Sun Oct-Apr) Sweeping lake views taking
Zell am Ziller 8 in Switzerland and Germany extend from the
4 Hotel Englhof Boutique Hotel €€ dining room and terrace of this hilltop castle
(%05282-3134; www.englhof.at; Zellbergeben 1km south of the centre. Local specialities
28; s/d/tr/ste from €55/103/153/110; W)
Beautiful blond-wood-panelled, white-linen- include Käsespätzle (hand-rolled noodles with
dressed rooms (many with balconies) and
amenities like free DVD rental make Englhof cheese) with traditional apple sauce and fried
a superb place to stay. But what really seals
the deal is its in-house gourmet restaurant onions, Lake Constance trout with almond
and world-class cocktail bar with Austria’s
second-largest collection of spirits (over 1400 butter and parsley potatoes, and white cheese
varieties), mixing incredible cocktails like a
Bloody Mary with frozen cherry tomatoes and strudel for dessert. CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
barbecued black-pepper seasoning.
4 Schwärzler Hotel €€
(%05574-4990; http://schwaerzler.s-hotels.
com; Landstrasse 9; s/d from €122/153;
pWs) This turreted, ivy-clad place is a
far cry from your average business hotel.
Contemporary rooms are done out in earthy
hues and blond wood, with comforts including
bathrobes, flat-screen TVs and minibars.
Innsbruck 9 Regional produce from organic farms features
on the breakfast buffet, and there’s a 400-sq-
5 Die Wilderin Austrian €€ metre pool and a sauna area. Parking costs €7.
(%0512-56 27 28; www.diewilderin.at;
Seilergasse 5; mains €11-18; h5pm-2am Tue-
567
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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a575
SYLVAIN GRANDADAM / GETTY IMAGES © Along the
40Danube
Follow the beautiful Danube River as it flows from the German
city of Passau by the Austrian border through farmland, forest and
vineyard-streaked hillsides to Austria’s majestic capital, Vienna.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 293 km 2–4 DAYS
Vienna 293 KM / 182 MILES
205 km View Vienna by foot,
Dürnstein horse-drawn carriage GREAT FOR…
Richard the Lionheart or Ferris wheel
was imprisoned here in HB
a now-ruined castle
BEST TIME TO GO
lL Krems an mK##_10
der Donau Aim for summer:
Passau # many places close
#7 # between November
Linz #9 and March.
# ! I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
#4 Melk
St Florian’s dazzling
St Florian Stift Göttweig interior.
Visit the abbey's This Unesco-listed
exuberant basilica abbey serves its own K BEST FOR
92 km monk-made wines ART
219 km
Passau Cruising the Danube River Linz’s contemporary
Lentos gallery.
569
40 Along the 1 Passau
Danube
Just inside the German
Immortalised in the stirring Blue Danube waltz border, Passau’s pastel-
by Austrian composer Johann Strauss II, this shaded Altstadt (old
magnificent river ripples with the reflections town) sits atop a narrow
of green forests, hilltop castles, and ribbons of peninsula jutting into the
vineyards, particularly on its prettiest stretch, confluence of three rivers:
the Wachau, between Melk and Krems an der the Danube, the Inn and
Donau. Along the river’s course are plenty the Ilz. Christianity gen-
of surprises too, including the cutting-edge erated prestige as Passau
city of Linz, and two monasteries producing, evolved into the largest
\# respectively, sublime beer and wine. bishopric in the Holy Ro-
man Empire, as testified
by the mighty cathedral
Dom St Stephan (www.
bistum-passau.de; Domplatz;
h6.30am-7pm).
Stroll the old town,
which remains much as
\#
Gmund
Olsinsky CZECH
Rybnik REPUBLIC
295 km to GERMANY
GF‚35 /·E55
lL ¸0Passau Bad #\ #\ Freistadt
Leonfelden
#\#1 B130 \# Kefermarkt
#2
Engelhartszell
Sc\#härdingan der Donau
Inn 0¸B130
Enns
0¸ 0¸ # /·B131 A7 Mauthausen
B127 Linz Memorial
]#3
/· #A1 5
/· ·/Traun A7 B3 Grein #\
0¸#Tr\#aun
L564 Donau
#\4
¸0 /· /· /·E522
\# A8 A25 St Florian \#
\# Wels
Ried im A1 Amstetten
Innkreis
Lambach Sierning #\ Steyr
\#
·/144 #\ #\
Kremsmünster
Vöcklamarkt Vöcklabruck Waidhofen #\
\#
\#
/·115
17 km to Attersee Gmunden #\
#\ Molln
#\ #\ Weyregg #\ Nationalpark Kalkalpen
GF39 Attersee Traunsee #\
‚ \# Mondsee #\ \# Heckenau
\# Ebensee
\#
it was when the powerful breweries outside Belgium,
prince-bishops built its and the only one in Aus-
tight lanes, tunnels and 2 Engelhartszell an tria. At the 1293-founded
archways with an Ital- der Donau abbey Engelszell (www.
ianate flourish. stift-engelszell.at; Stiftstrasse
The little riverside village
5 4 p575 of Engelhartszell an der 6; hchurch 8am-7pm Apr-Oct,
The Drive » Cross the Inn Donau is home to one of
only eight licensed Trappist to 5pm Nov-Mar, shop 9am-5pm
River where it joins the Danube
Apr-Oct, 10-11.30am & 2.30-4pm
and head east on ST2125 which, LINK AUSTRIA 40 Along the Danube
3.3km later, becomes the B130 YOUR
on entering Austria, and follows TRIP
the Danube’s southern bank.
On your right, you’ll pass Burg
Krempelstein, built on the site
of a Roman watch house. It’s z ~The Romantic Grossglockner
26km all up to Engelhartszell an Road Road
der Donau. Head west, skirting A hop and a skip south
Munich, to this ribbon and you can twist
of historical quaintness and turn along three
running through of Austria’s most #\
#\ Bavaria’s western spectacular montian
und reaches. passes.
\# Zwettl e# 0 40 km
0 20 miles
/·E59
Krems an ·/E49
#Dürnstein der Donau #\Feuersbrunn Stockerau
8 \#
#7 #\
·/B37 Donau
#9 \# \#
Spitz \# Wachau Stift Tülln Klosterneuburg
Göttweig B1 Vienna
0¸ /·L100
·/ # /· ¸0 /· /· ·/ Km\#
# #IMelk #_10
Purkersdorf \#
p578
Marbach 6 St Pölten L120 B44 E60
B3 \# A1 #\
#\ #^ B1
·/Pöchlarn A1 Mödling
#\
\#
Hinterbrühl
#\
\#
Alland
/·\# B18 Baden #\
\# Hainfeld
AUSTRIA Lilienfeld #\
\# Gaming
Berndorf ·/E59
·/B20 Wiener #\
Neustadt
\#
Lunz
\#
#\
Puchberg
#\ #\ Mariazell \#
Göstling Gloggnitz Neunkirchen 571
\#
#\
STIFT ST. FLORIAN/BEYERSat & Sun Nov-Mar), you can Mon-Sat, 8am-7.15pm Sun) is
purchase monk-made a neo-Gothic giant of a
AUSTRIA 40 Along the Danube brews (dark Gregorius, cathedral with a riot of
amber Benno, and blond pinnacles, flying buttresses
Nivard); the shop also and filigree traceried on the B3. After 2.4km take
sells liqueurs and cheeses windows. the L1411 for 2.5 signposted
produced here. Adjoining kilometres to the Mauthausen
the shop is the abbey’s 5 4 p575 Memorial (22km in total).
gorgeous rococo church,
completed in 1764. The Drive » Take the A1 5 Mauthausen
Memorial
The Drive » Take the B130; at southeast to Ebelsberg, then
continue on the L564 to St Nowadays Mauthausen
Aschach an der Donau, cross the Florian (21km all up). is a peaceful small town
river on the B131, and continue on the north bank of the
east to Ottensheim to join the TRIP HIGHLIGHT Danube, but during WWII
B127 to Linz (52km in total). the Nazis turned the quar-
4 St Florian rying centre into the KZ
3 Linz Mauthausen concentra-
Rising like a vision above tion camp. Prisoners were
The Austrian saying In St Florian is its mag- forced into slave labour
Linz beginnt’s (It begins nificent abbey, Augustiner in the granite quarry and
in Linz) sums up this Chorherrenstift (www. many died on the so-called
technology trailblazer. stift-st-florian.at; Stiftstrasse Todesstiege (stairway of
Its leading-edge Ars 1; tours €8.50; h11am, 1pm & death) leading from the
Electronica Center (www. 3pm May-early Oct). Dating quarry to the camp. Some
aec.at; Ars Electronica Strasse 1; to at least 819, it has been
adult/child €8/6; h9am-5pm occupied by the Canons
Tue-Fri, to 9pm Thu, 10am-6pm Regular, living under
Sat & Sun) has labs for Augustinian rule, since
interacting with robots, 1071. Today its imposing
animating digital objects, yellow-and-white facade is
converting your name overwhelmingly baroque.
to DNA and (virtually)
travelling to outer space. Compulsory guided
After dark, the LED glass tours of the abbey’s interi-
skin kaleidoscopically or take in the resplendent
changes colour. Directly apartments adorned with
across the Danube is Linz’s rich stuccowork and fres-
world-class contemporary- cos, including 16 emperors’
art gallery, the glass-and- rooms (once occupied by
steel Lentos (www.lentos. visiting popes and royalty)
at; Ernst-Koref-Promenade 1; and a galleried library
adult/child €8/4.50, guided tours housing 150,000 volumes.
€3; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, to
9pm Thu), with works by The Stiftsbasilika
Warhol, Schiele and Klimt, (h7am-dusk) is an exuber-
among others. ant affair with an altar
carved from 700 tonnes of
But it’s not all new in pink Salzburg marble, and
Austria’s third-largest a gold 18th-century organ.
city: the Mariendom (Her-
renstrasse 26; h7.30am-7pm The Drive » Head northeast
on the L566 to join the B1.
Follow it for 7.5km then turn
east on the B123 to cross the
Danube, before turning west
572
St Florian The beautiful pipe organ on display in the Stiftsbasilika
100,000 prisoners perished 6 Melk high octagonal dome.
or were executed in the The baroque-gone-barmy
camp between 1938 and Historically, Melk was of interior has regiments of
1945. The complex is now a great importance to the cherubs, gilt twirls and
memorial (www.mauthausen- Romans and later to the polished faux marble.
memorial.at; Erinnerungsstrasse Babenbergs, who built a The theatrical high-altar
1; admission incl guided tour €5, castle here. In 1089 the Ba- scene depicts St Peter and
audioguide €3; h9am-5.30pm benberg margrave Leopold St Paul (the church’s two
Mar-early Jul, 9am-5.30pm II donated the castle to patron saints).
Tue-Sun early Jul-Oct, 9am-3pm Benedictine monks, who
Tue-Sun Nov-Feb); English- converted it into the forti- The Drive » The Wachau is
language audioguides fied Stift Melk (Benedictine
relate its sobering history. Abbey of Melk; www.stiftmelk.at; the loveliest along the mighty
It’s not recommended for Abt Berthold Dietmayr Strasse 1; river’s length: both banks here
under 14s. adult/child €10/5.50, with guided are dotted with ruined castles
tour €12/7.50; h9am-5.30pm and terraced with vineyards.
The Drive » Travelling east for May-Sep, tours 11am & 2pm From Melk, follow the river
Oct-Apr). Fire destroyed northeast along the nothern
76km brings you to Melk. Along the original edifice; today bank for 28km, passing medieval
the river at Grein, look out for its monastery church villages Spitz, Wösendorf in der
the dramatic castle Greinburg dominates the complex Wachau and Weissenkirchen, to
rising to your left. with its twin spires and reach Dürnstein.
573
AUSTRIA 40 Along the Danube TOP TIP: Stiftskirche (which has a
DANUBE CRUISES Kremser Schmidt work
in the crypt). Best of all
Floating past vine-covered banks crowned by is the opportunity to sip
castles gives you a different perspective of the river. wine made here by the
From Passau, Wurm + Köck (%0851-929 292; www. monks – including an
donauschiffahrt.de; Höllgasse 26) operates cruises between exquisite Messwein rosé –
Regensburg, Germany, and Vienna from March to early on the panoramic garden
November. One-way/return tickets for one stop start terrace above the valley
from €10.50/11.50; 10-stop tickets start from €26/29. (you can also buy it at the
abbey’s shop).
TRIP HIGHLIGHT has an attractive cobbled
centre and gallery-dotted The Drive » From Stift
7 Dürnstein Kunstmeile (Art Mile; www.
kunstmeile-krems.at). Its flag- Göttweig, it’s 79km to Vienna.
Picturesque Dürnstein ship is the Kunsthalle (www. The most scenic route, through
is best known for the kunsthalle.at; Franz-Zeller-Platz farmland and forest, is south on
Kuenringerburg – the 3; admission €10; h10am-5pm the L100 to St Pölten, then east
now-ruined castle above Tue-Sun), a collection of gal- on the L120 to join the eastbound
the town where Richard leries and museums, with B44 at Ebersberg. Continue
the Lionheart (Richard I of changing exhibitions. through the Wienerwald to the
England) was imprisoned Austrian capital.
from 1192 to 1193, before 4 p575
being moved to Burg TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Trifels (p178) in Germany. The Drive » Leave Krems
a Vienna
Of the 16th-century an der Donau on the B37 and
buildings lining Dürn- cross the southbound L100. Renowned for its imperial
stein’s hilly, cobbled Stift Göttweig is well signposted palaces, baroque interiors,
streets, the Chorherren- (9km altogether from Krems). opera houses and mag-
stift (www.stiftduernstein.at; nificent squares, Vienna is
Stiftshof; adult/child €3/1.50; TRIP HIGHLIGHT also one of Europe’s most
h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am- dynamic urban spaces. The
6pm Sun Apr-Oct) is the most 9 Stift Göttweig best way to experience its
impressive. It’s all that blend of old and new is on
remains of the former Surrounded by grape- a walking tour (p578).
Augustinian monastery laden vines, Unesco World
originally founded in 1410, Heritage–listed Stift A wonderfully atmos-
and received its baroque Göttweig (Göttweig Abbey; pheric (if touristy) alterna-
facelift in the 18th century. %02732-855 81-0; www.stift- tive is aboard a Fiaker (up to
goettweig.at; Furth bei Göttweig; 4 passengers 20min/40min/1hr
The Drive » Head east along adult/child €7.50/4; h9am- tour €55/80/110), which is
6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct- a traditional-style open
the river on the B3 for 7.5km to May) was founded in 1083, carriage drawn by a pair
reach Krems an der Donau. but the abbey you see of horses. Drivers point out
today is mostly baroque. places of interest en route.
8 Krems an der Highlights include the Lines of horses, carriages
Donau Imperial Staircase with and bowler-hatted drivers
a heavenly ceiling fresco can be found at Stephans-
Against a backdrop of painted by Paul Troger in platz, Albertinaplatz
terraced vineyards, Krems 1739, and the over-the-top and Heldenplatz at the
baroque interior of the Hofburg.
Or survey the city
from Vienna’s 65m-high,
1897-built Ferris wheel, the
Riesenrad. It’s located at
574
Eating & Sleeping
Passau 1 glass-and-concrete cube reveals streamlined
interiors in pristine whites and blond wood that
5 Heilig-Geist-Stifts- reveal a Nordic-style aesthetic. Wind down with
a view at the rooftop spa.
Schenke Bavarian €€
(%0851-2607; www.stiftskeller-passau.de; Krems an der Donau 8
Heilig-Geist-Gasse 4; mains €10-20; h11am- 4 Arte Hotel Krems Design Hotel €€ AUSTRIA 40 Along the Danube
11pm, closed Wed; W) Not only does this (%02732-711 23; www.arte-hotel.at; Dr-Karl-
Dorrek-Strasse 23; s/d €109/159; pW)
historical inn have a succession of walnut- This cutting-edge art hotel has 91 large,
well-designed rooms scattered with big retro
panelled ceramic-stove-heated rooms, a prints and patterns complementing the funky
’60s-style furniture.
candlelit cellar (from 6pm) and a vine-draped
garden, but the food is equally inspired. Amid
the river fish, steaks and seasonal dishes there
are quite gourmet affairs such as beef fillet in
flambéed cognac sauce. Help it all along with
one of the many Austrian and German wines
in stock. Vienna a
4 Hotel Schloss Ort Boutique Hotel €€ 5 Bierhof Austrian €
(%0851-340 72; www.hotel-schloss-ort.de; (%01-533 44 28; http://bierhof.at; 01, Haarhof
Im Ort 11; s €68-121, d €97-184; pW) This
800-year-old medieval palace by the Inn River 3; mains €10-19; h11.30am-11.30pm; W;
conceals a tranquil boutique hotel, stylishly
done out with polished timber floors, crisp white mHerrengasse) A narrow passageway opens
cotton sheets and wrought-iron bedsteads.
Many of the 18 rooms enjoy river views and to a courtyard where umbrella-shaded tables
breakfast is served in the vaulted restaurant.
Parking is an extra €4. beneath the trees make a charming spot to dine
on homemade classics like Eiernockerl (flour-
and-egg dumplings), Tiroler Groest’l (pork,
potatoes and bacon, topped with a fried egg),
Tiroler Leber (liver dumplings with apple sauce
Linz 3 and green beans) and Weiner Schnitzel with
parsley potatoes. The bar stays open until late.
5 k.u.k. Hofbäckerei Cafe € 4 Hotel Capricorno Hotel €€
(Pfarrgasse 17; coffee & cake €3-6; h6.30am- (%01-533 31 04-0; www.schick-hotels.com/
6.30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-12.30pm Sat) The Empire hotel-capricorno; 01, Schwedenplatz 3-4; s/d
lives on at this gloriously stuck-in-time cafe. from €120/150; pW; mSchwedenplatz)
Here Fritz Rath bakes the best Linzer Torte in Behind an unpromising mid-20th-century
town – rich, spicy and with lattice pastry that facade, Hotel Capricorno was stunningly made
crumbles just so. over in 2015 in lustrous velveteens in zesty lime,
4 Hotel am Domplatz Design Hotel €€ orange, lemon and aubergine shades. Most
(%0732-77 30 00; www.hotelamdomplatz.at; of its 42 rooms have balconies (front rooms
Stifterstrasse 4; d €125-145, ste €300; aiW)
Sidling up to the neo-Gothic Neuer Dom, this overlook the Danube Canal but rear rooms are
quieter). Rare-for-Vienna parking is available for
just €23 per day. It’s a 10-minute walk from the
Stephansdom.
575
NEED TO ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
KNOW
Climate
CURRENCY
Mild to hot summers, cold winters
Euro (€) Warm to hot summers, mild winters
Mild year-round
LANGUAGE Cold climate
German (see p520) GOKDJietuzcnb––üMShaeerpl & Salzburg Vienna
# GO Jul & Aug GO Late Mar–Oct
VISAS #
#
Generally not required for #
stays of up to 90 days; # GGrOaAz pr–Oct
some nationalities need a GOInDJneuscnb––rMSuaecrpk &
Schengen visa.
When to Go
FUEL High Season (Apr–Oct)
»»High season peaks from July to August.
Petrol stations are common »»In lake areas, the peak is June to September.
on main roads and highways, »»Prices rise over Christmas and Easter.
and in larger towns. »»Salzburg is busiest in July and August for the Salzburg
Unleaded costs around
€1.50 per litre and diesel is Festival.
€1.25.
Shoulder (late Mar–May & late Sep–Oct)
RENTAL CARS »»The weather’s changeable, the lakes are chilly and the hiking’s
Auto Europe (www. excellent.
autoeurope.com)
»»Sights are open and less crowded.
Avis (www.avis.com) Low Season (Nov–Mar)
Europcar (www.europcar. »»Many sights are closed.
com) »»There’s a cultural focus in Vienna and the regional capitals.
»»Ski resorts open from mid-December.
Hertz (www.hertz.com) »»High season for skiing is mid-December to March.
IMPORTANT NUMBERS
Europe-wide emergency
covering police, fire and
ambulance (%112)
576
Daily Costs Sleeping cafes, bars, train stations and
Budget: Less than €80 other public spaces.
»»Dorm beds or cheap doubles: Hotels From budget to luxury;
breakfast included unless Money
€25 per person indicated.
Pensiones Rates always ATMs are widely available.
»»Self-catering or lunch specials: include breakfast. Maestro direct debit and Visa
Hostels In cities and large and MasterCard credit cards are
€6–12 towns; private or HI-affiliated. accepted in most hotels and in
Price symbols indicate the cost midrange restaurants. Expect to
»»Cheap museums: €4 of a double room with private pay cash elsewhere. Travellers
bathroom in high season: cheques are not accepted.
Midrange: €80–160
»»Hotel singles: €60–90 per € less than €80 Tipping
€€ €80–160
person €€€ more than €160 Restaurant and bar prices
include a service charge but
»»Two-course meal with glass of Arriving in Austria locals still tip. Taxis expect 10%.
Vienna Airport
wine: €30 Useful Websites
Train & S-Bahn To city
»»High-profile museums: €12 centre every 30 minutes, 6am Lonely Planet
to 11.30pm (€4 to €12, 15 to 30 (lonelyplanet.com) Travel tips,
Top end: More than €160 minutes). accommodation, traveller
»»Plush suites and doubles in Taxis €35 to €50; 30 minutes forums and more.
to centre. Austria (www.austria.info)
major cities: from €200 Austrian tourist board.
Mobile Phones (Cell ADAC (www.adac.de) Driving
»»Pampering at spa facilities: Phones) information for Germany and
neighbouring countries.
€40–100 Most European and Australian
phones function; turn off
»»Fine dining and wine pairing: roaming to avoid data charges.
Buy a local SIM for cheaper
€70 rates.
Eating
Cafes Coffee, drinks, snacks.
Bistros Light meals to full-
blown dinners.
Restaurants Simple eateries
to Michelin-starred temples.
Vegetarian Few wholly
vegetarian places, limited
choices on most menus.
The following prices indicate the
cost of a two-course set menu:
€ less than €15 Internet Access
€€ €15–30
€€€ more than €30 Wi-fi (usually free) is available to
guests in most hotels, B&Bs and
hostels. Also offered by many
577
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
STRETCH Café Central
YOUR LEGS
VIENNA Park just around the corner on Freyung
and fortify yourself with coffee and a
Start/Finish: Café Central slice of Altenbergtorte cake at grand Café
Distance: 3.4km Central (www.palaisevents.at/cafecentral.html;
Duration: Four hours 01, Herrengasse 14; h7.30am-10pm Mon-Sat,
10am-10pm Sun; W; mHerrengasse).
Vienna’s grandeur unfolds in all
its glory on this city stroll, from The Walk » Walk southeast on Herrengasse for
the timeless elegance of its
Kaffeehäuser (coffee houses) to 350m, then through the Michaelertor palace gate
its monumental Hofburg palace, to the imposing Hofburg.
museums, parks and opulent opera
house, as well as magnificent Hofburg
churches.
Nothing symbolises Austria’s culture and
heritage more than the Hofburg (Imperial
Palace; www.hofburg-wien.at; 01, Michaelerkuppel;
g1A, 2A Michaelerplatz, mHerrengasse, jD, 1,
2, 71, 46, 49 Burgring), seat of the Habsburgs
from 1273 to 1918. Its oldest section is
the 13th-century Schweizerhof (Swiss
Courtyard). The palace owes its size and
architectural diversity to one-upmanship;
sections were added by new rulers,
including the Gothic Burgkapelle (Royal
Chapel), early baroque Leopold Wing,
16th-century Amalia Wing and 18th-
century Imperial Chancery Wing.
The Walk » It’s a 750m stroll southwest
through Heldenplatz, passing the twin museums
Naturhistorisches and Kunsthistorisches on
Maria-Theresien-Platz, to the MuseumsQuartier.
MuseumsQuartier
The MuseumsQuartier (Museum Quarter;
www.mqw.at; 07, Museumsplatz; hinformation
& ticket centre 10am-7pm; mMuseumsquartier,
Volkstheater) is a remarkable ensemble of
museums, cafes, restaurants and bars
inside former imperial stables. With over
60,000 sq metres of exhibition space, the
complex is one of the world’s most ambi-
tious cultural spaces.
The Walk » Head southeast through the
MuseumsQuartier’s arched laneways to
Mariahilfer Strasse. Turn left and continue 350m
northeast to the Burggarten.
Take this walk on Trip Burggarten
¤ The Burggarten (Castle Garden; www.
bundesgaerten.at; 01, Burgring; h6am-10pm Apr-
578
Oct, 7.30am-5.30pm Nov-Mar; mMuseumsquartier,
jD, 1, 2, 71) is a leafy oasis amid the city’s
hustle and bustle. The marble statue of
Mozart is the park’s most famous tenant,
J% e000000000000000000§#000000000000000000SRpMaV000000000000000000ittSaothSerlacklitbuhasaesmhtdrhgiileeogfMearanlQtsrigub(JensS000000000000abueorsgustuaspe§#0000000000t00rRseRrltueatattf000000000000amhRt.teitzeheDar00000000000000000h000000000000000sartrfaThuol00000000000000000000000000000000euhyasnM’s#seuPp00000000000000000000000000000000¤#ph’rastllaaeaaop00000000000000000000000000000000rr#¤mlsttDRiauksazzi000000000000000000000000e0000000rreo-sik#¤nnKseSP0000000000000000000000000000000na-asV)ate,raBRr0o00000000000000000000000rstllad--§#lauhatRki000000000000000000000000ntramoesihgnntdgea00000000000M0000000000t00000000000ugSgahnuutarMeeB0000000000000000000000000t0000000scthssGapuehiseotene00000000000000000000000000000000000lnreueatmfgor/rtmP00000000000000000000000000000000000rerEzieiia/sndt000000000000000000000000000m00000000¤#eqtgelHImnutmnHB00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000peeNapaedulreerlidr000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000rbaterklrrneigtietreeo000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000nznhBlrnurpggaS000000000000000000000000000000000000CCun§##laFhcaJuHgraesh00000000000000000000000000#00000otrga#essBNzofnisanelgué0000000000000000000000000000000000000uelfetngeGasbfrruaros0000000000000000000000000000000000gzareupesptltSls000000000000000000000000000rhleaaeAgettngt000000000000000000000zamzaH&cMsa000000000000000000000saaHteNoDbsl0000000000000000000oansolbgof-yml00000000000000S0000000epr–asgeR0000000000#§tcK#ir,anhäS10000000#nga-rt3nG/et00000000d0zt.prO3anha#ipb#¤P0eraueerpennodrmstnio00000peMilSrtWcaa00000Ko#§sutahuraAzkn00000ulllrJe;niflsgoriyrnmsH00000000000ecs9hcairt–ha-mhg00000000000sr1nSeagt1nmrnt00000000000sa.e3esisEepcS0se00000000000silghpkstaeSaoe00000000000af#mnWSoSscntncresai000000000000000000000ek-sn&thiePh-mggppwi000000000000000000000bea1lmlhaau-arses4rt¤#0000000000tars-gtzdzt.erng3z)0000000000a,es0SSs0nisdopts.benW2emone5lfemroofngmllf-lszeitlel00000000s5Areiga0lmsaes000000000ssseem00000000He00000000um00000000arasse
Herrengasse
Herrengasse
urgergKaoshslemarkt
Kump fgasse
AugustinerstrTegetthoffstr
(BRuinrggrsintrgasse) Kärntner Str
Museumstr
Babenbergerstr Hegelgasse
Operngasse
kt
bar, housed in a beautifully restored (Little Stephan). A church has stood here
since the 12th century; reminders include
Jugendstil (art-nouveau) palm house. the Romanesque Riesentor (Giant Gate)
and Heidentürme. Inside, a magnificent
The Walk » From the garden’s northeastern stone pulpit, sculpted in 1515, presides
over the main nave.
edge, walk southeast on Hanuschgasse for 200m
to the city’s opera house, the Staatsoper.
Staatsoper The Walk » Take Goldschmiedgasse northwest
The neo-Renaissance Staatsoper for 230m to Petersplatz and the domed
(www.wiener-staatsoper.at; 01, Opernring Peterskirche.
2; mKarlsplatz, jD, 1, 2, 71) is Vienna’s Peterskirche
foremost opera and ballet venue. Built
between 1861 and 1869, it initially ap- The Peterskirche (Church of St Peter; www.
palled the Viennese public, earning the peterskirche.at; 01, Petersplatz; h7am-8pm Mon-
nickname ‘stone turtle’. Performances Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun; mStephansplatz) was
here are unforgettable; you also can visit built in 1733 according to plans by the
its museum and/or take a guided tour. celebrated baroque architect Johann Lu-
kas von Hildebrandt. Interior highlights
The Walk » Head north on Kärntner Strasse for include a fresco on the dome painted by
JM Rottmayr and a golden altar depicting
600m to the Stephansdom, and pause to check the martyrdom of St John of Nepomuk.
out the glorious tiled roof.
Stephansdom The Walk » Head northwest on Graben and
Vienna’s soaring, filagreed Gothic mas- Naglergasse for 200m. Turn left onto Haarhof for
terpiece, the Stephansdom (St Stephan’s Ca- 90m, then right onto Wallnerstrasse for 80m; Café
thedral; www.stephanskirche.at; 01, Stephansplatz; Central is in front of you.
h6am-10pm Mon-Sat, from 7am Sun, main nave
579
BEHIND ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
THE
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SCENES
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson
BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map
of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’,
Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633- 44.
Front cover photographs: (top) Neuschwanstein
Castle, Courtesy of the Bavarian Palace
Department, Noppasin/Shutterstock© (right)
Marble statue, mrivserg/Shutterstock© (left)
Citroen Dolly, Ken Scicluna/AWL©
Back cover photograph: Cypress trees and red
poppies, Tuscany, Buena Vista Images/Getty©
THIS BOOK This guidebook was produced by the following:
This 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Europe’s Best Destination Editors Jo Cooke, Helen Elfer, Gemma
Trips guidebook was curated by Belinda Dixon Graham, Lorna Parkes, James Smart, Anna Tyler
and researched and written by Isabel Albiston,
Oliver Berry, Stuart Butler, Kerry Christiani, Fionn Product Editor Tracy Whitmey
Davenport, Belinda Dixon, Marc Di Duca, Peter
Dragicevich, Duncan Garwood, Anthony Ham, Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya
Paula Hardy, Catherine Le Nevez, Sally O’Brien,
Josephine Quintero, Daniel Robinson, Brendan Book Designer Clara Monitto
Sainsbury, Andy Symington, Ryan Ver Berkmoes,
Nicola Williams and Neil Wilson. Cover Researcher Naomi Parker
580 Thanks to Bridget Blair, Victoria Harrison, Monique
Perrin, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridgway, Luna Soo
©Lone- ly Planet Publications Pty Ltd
INDEX
A Arranmore Island 349, 351 B
Arromanches 136-7
Abbazia di Sant’Antimo 62 Ars Electronica Center 572 Bacharach 487-8, 489
Aberfeldy 268, 269 art 20, 83 Bad Karlshafen 512
Accademia Carrara 52 Ashmolean Museum 210 Badia a Passignano 58, 63
Agrigento 93, 98-9 Assarancagh Waterfall 350 Bains des Pâquis 542
Aix-en-Provence 129, 131, Astorga 408 Ballaghbeama Gap 336
Augsburg 498, 503 Ballater 263-4, 269
150 Augustiner Ballycarbery Castle 333
Aktivzentrum Zillertal 563 Ballycastle 343, 351
Alassio 104-5, 107 Chorherrenstift 572 Balmoral Castle 263
Aletsch Glacier 537-8 Austria 555-79 Barafundle Bay 286
Algarve Beaches 18, 459-69 Barcelona 384-5, 387, 442-3
Alicante 380-1, 386 accommodation 577 Bären Park 545
Aljezur 462 car hire 576 Basilica di San Marco 33, 83
Almería 376-7, 386 costs 577 Basilique du Sacré-Coeur
Almuñécar 375-6 currency 576
Alpine Game Park emergencies 576 122-3
food 577 Bath 214, 242-3, 245, 294-5
Pfänder 566 fuel 576 Battistero 81
Altes Rathaus 522 internet access 577 Bayerisches
Alt-Rothenburger language 576
mobile phones 577 Eisenbahnmuseum 495
Handwerkerhaus 494 money 577 Bayeux 125, 137-9, 141
Amalfi 69-71, 73 planning 576-7 Bayeux Tapestry 125
Amalfi Coast 12, 65-73 tipping 577 Beachy Head 239
Ambleside 248, 259 transport 577 Beaulieu 241
Amboise 191-2, 193 visas 576 Beauly 277
Andermatt 532 weather 576 Beauty Priory 276
Antibes 165-6, 172 websites 577 Bedruthan Steps 224
Aonach Eagach 272-3 wi-fi 577 Beethoven-Haus Bonn 482
architecture 20, 83 Auswandererhaus 514 Belfast 317-18, 326, 343
Ardmore 324 Avebury 213-14, 219, 242 Bellagio 49-50, 53
Arena (Verona) 82 Aviemore 265, 269 Ben Nevis 274
Argelès-Gazost 157 Ávila 418, 424 Bergamo 52, 53
Arles 147-9, 151 Azay-le-Rideau 188 Bergisel 565
Arosa 531
581
INDEX B-C Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe 509 Burg Maus 486 Castello di Ama 61
Bergstatt 562 Burg Rheinfels 486 Castello di Venere 92
Bern 545-6, 549 Burggarten 578-9 Castello di Verrazzano 57-8
Bertolt-Brecht-Haus 498 Burgos 406-7, 412, 422, 425 Castelvecchio 82
Biarritz 146-7 Burren 321-2 Castilla y León 415-25
Biot 167 Buttermere 253-4 Castrillo de los
Blair Atholl 267, 269
Blair Castle 267 C Polvazares 408-9
Blausee 537 Castrojeriz 407
Blenheim Palace 243-4 Cabo de Gata 377 Catania 97, 99
Blois 192, 193 Cabo Fisterra 410 Cathédrale de Notre
Bodenwerder 512-13 CabriO 547
Bodleian Library 210 Cacela Velha 468 Dame (Paris) 199
Bologna 35-6, 41 Caen 135, 141 Cathédrale Notre Dame
Bonn 482 Caherconnell Fort 323
Bonnie Prince Charlie 273 Caherdaniel 310-11, 336 (Chartres) 124-5
Book of Kells 302 Cahergall 333 Cauterets 157-9, 161
Boppard 485-6 Cahersiveen 333-5 CERN 543
Bordeaux 125-7, 130-1 Cairngorm Mountain 264 Cetara 72
Borghese Palace 37 Cairngorms National Park chalk figures 210-11
Borrowdale 253-4 Chambord 125, 192
Bowness-on-Windermere 231-2, 233 Chamonix 128-9
Caldey Island 286 Champagne 175-83
248, 259 Caledonian Canal 274 Champagne Georges
Braemar 263, 269 Cambridge 218, 219, 292-3
Brantwood 256 Camino de Santiago 402 Cartier 181
Braubach 483-4 Campo de’ Fiori 113 Chapelle du Rosaire 166
Brecon Beacons National Cannes 150, 165, 172 Chartres 124-5, 130
Cannobino 46-7 Château Comtal 147
Park 225, 233 Canterbury 238, 245 Château de Pau 155
Bregenz 566, 567 Capitoline Museums 37 Château de Versailles 124
Bremen 514, 517 Cappella degli châteaux (Loire) 13, 186-93
Bremerhaven 514-15 Chepstow 214-15
Bridge of Balgie 268 Scrovegni 33, 82 Cheverny 193
Bridge of Sighs 84 Cappella Palatina 91 Chinon 187, 193
Brighton 238, 245 Carcassonne 147 Chorherrenstift 574
Briones 431 Cardiff 214, 219 Christ Church
Bristol 243, 245 Carmarthen 285
British Museum 210 Carrapateira 463 Cathedral 366
Brothers Grimm 512 Carrick-a-Rede Rope Church Island 335
Brüder Grimm-Haus 507 Cirque de Gavarnie 147, 157
Brunate 49 Bridge 318, 344 Cité de l’Espace 147
Brunelleschi, Filippo 36 Carrigart 348 Clifden 304, 312
Buckingham Palace 209 Cartagena 379, 386 Cliffs of Moher 304-7
Burg Hohenwerfen 562 Carvoeiro 466-7, 469 Cockermouth 254
Burg Katz 486 Casa Batlló 443 Col du Tourmalet 159
Casal de Loivos 455 Colline du Château 201
Casino de Monte Carlo 171 Cologne 480-1, 522-3
Colosseum 37, 76
582
Comarés 392 Dún Aengus 322, 360 Fintown Railway 350 INDEX C-F
Como 47-9, 53 Dunbeg Fort 308 Florence 17, 36, 41, 56-7, 63,
Conciergerie 199 Dunfanaghy 319, 326, 351
Coniston 256-7, 259 Duomo (Florence) 36, 79, 78-9, 86-7, 114-15
Cork City 324, 327 Foix 160, 161
Corniche de l’Estérel 166 114 Fondation Maeght 166
Costa del Sol 389-97 Duoro Valley 449-57 Fort Augustus 274
Coutances 140 Dürnstein 574-5 Fort William 273, 277
Covarrubias 422-3 Düsseldorf 480 Fortezza 62
Craigendarroch 263 France 117-201
Cramant 181-2 E
Cremona 40 accommodation 195
Cromane Peninsula 332 Edinburgh 216-17, 219 business hours 195
Crummock Water 254 Eichstätt & the Altmühltal car hire 194
costs 195
D Nature Park 498 currency 194
Eisriesenwelt 562 emergencies 194, 196-7
da Vinci, Leonardo 32, 191 Elciego 431, 435 food 195
Danube cruises 574 Elegug Stack Rocks 286 fuel 194
Danube River 569-75 Elterwater 250 internet access 195
Dartmoor National Emmental Region 546-7 language 194, 196-7
Emmentaler mobile phones 195
Park 224, 233 money 194, 195
D-Day beaches 133-41 Schaukäserei 546 tipping 195
Delta de L’Erbe 381 Engelberg 532, 533 transport 195
Derry 345, 351 Engelhartszell an der Donau visas 194
Derrynane National Historic weather 194
571-2 websites 195
Park 310-11 Engelszell 571 wi-fi 195
Derwentwater 253 Ennis 307-8, 312-13, 354-6, Fraumünster 548
Dingle 308, 313, 322, 327 French language 196-7
Dinkelsbühl 495, 502 361 French Riviera 129, 163-73
Disentis Abbey 532 Ennistymon 356, 361 Freshwater West 286
Doctor Who Experience 214 Épernay 178-81, 183 Fribourg 544, 549
Doe Castle 348-9 Erice 91-2, 98 Friedensmuseum 482
Dog Falls 276 Eskdale 255 Frómist 407
Dom St Kilian 492 Estella 403 Fuengirola 393, 397
Dom St Petri 514 Estepona 396, 397 Fuente de Vino 403
Dom zu Fulda 508 Exmoor National Park 274-5 Fuggerei 498
Donauwörth 497-8 Èze 171, 173 Fulda 508
Doolin 322, 360, 361 Funicolare Como-
Douro Valley 449-57 F Brunate 49
Dove Cottage 250 Funiculaire de Fribourg 544
Downings 351 Fahan 347 Fürstbischöfliche
Drumnadrochit 275-6 Fährboot 487 Residenz 498
Dublin 302, 312, 316-17, 326, Falaise aux Vautours 156 Füssen 500, 503
Faro 467-8, 469
366-7 Feria de Malaga 385
Festung Ehrenbreitstein 483
Finale Ligure 104, 107
583
INDEX F-I Future Jüdisches Glen Lyon 268 H
Museum 522 Glen Nevis 273-4
Glencolumbcille 350 Hadrian’s Wall 229-30
G Glenevin Waterfall 345-7, Hamelin 513, 517
Hanau 506, 507
Gaeilge language 364 351 Hanover 513-14
Galleria degli Uffizi 36, Gletscherschlucht 535 Harburg 495-6
Gold Beach 136 Hardknott Pass 255-6
79, 115 Gorges du Verdon 129 Haro 430-1
Galleria dell’Accademia Gornergratbahn 537 Harry Potter movies 273
Göttingen 511-12, 517 Hautvillers 178
(Florence) 36, 114 Gower Heritage Centre 282 Hawkshead 257-8, 259
Gallerie dell’Accademia Grasmere 250, 259 Haystacks 254
Grasse 170 Healy Pass 324
(Venice) 33 Great Britain 203-295 Heiligtum der Isis und Mater
Galway City 302-4, 312,
accommodation 291 Magna 488
354, 361 business hours 291 Herrenhäuser Gärten 513
Gap of Dunloe 336 car hire 290 Highland Folk
Gästekarte 499 costs 290, 291
Gemsstock 532 currency 290 Museum 265-7
Geneva 542-4, 549, 552-3 emergencies 290 Highland games 263
Genoa 32, 40, 102-3, 107 food 291 Highland Wildlife Park 265
German language 520-1 fuel 290 highlights 8-9, 10-19
Germany 475-523 internet access 291 Hill Top 256
languages 290 Historisches Museum
accommodation 519 mobile phones 291
car hire 518 money 291 Schloss Philippsruhe 506
costs 519 planning 290 history 21
currency 518 tipping 291 Hofburg 578
emergencies 518, 521 transport 291 Hohes Schloss 500
food 519 visas 290 Honister Pass 254
fuel 518 weather 290 Horn Head 319, 349
internet access 519 websites 291 Hunsrückbahn 485
language 518, 520-1 wi-fi 291 Hyde Park 209
mobile phones 519 Great Glen 271-7
money 519 Greve in Chianti 58 I
planning 518-19 griffon vultures 156
tipping 519 Grimmwelt 509 Igreja de São Lourenço de
transport 519 Grindelwald 533, 535-6 Matos 467
visas 518 Grizedale Forest 258
weather 518 Grossglockner High Alpine Île de Ré 146
websites 519 Road 562-3 Imperia 105
wi-fi 519 Grossmünster 548 Inisfallen 338
Giant’s Causeway 18, 318-19, Grotte de Niaux 160 Inisheer 360, 361
326, 344 Inishmór 322, 327, 360, 361
Gibraltar 396 Iniskeel Island 350
Giessbachfälle 535 Innsbruck 565, 567
Glen Affric 276 Interlaken 544-5, 549
Glen Coe 272-3, 277
584
Inverness 276, 277 J L INDEX I-L
Ireland 297-365
Jane Austen Centre 214 La Grande Corniche 167-9
accommodation 363 Jardin Anglais 552 La Rioja 17, 427-35
car hire 362 Jardin des Tuileries 198 La Rochelle 145-6, 151
costs 363 Jodel Wanderweg 563 Lacock 244
currency 362 Juan-les-Pins 165-6 Lago di Como 47
emergencies 362 Jungfraujoch 548 Lago d’Orta 46
food 363 Juno Beach 136 Lago Maggiore 44
fuel 362 Lagos 463, 469
internet access 363 K Laguardia 433-4, 435
languages 362, 364-5 Lake District 247-59
mobile phones 363 Kandersteg 537 Lake District National
money 362, 363 Kassel 509, 516
tipping 363 Kaub 487 Park 229, 233
transport 363 Kellerwald-Edersee Landgrafenschloss 508
visas 362 Landsberg am Lech 498
weather 362 National Park 509 Langdale Pikes 250
websites 363 Kenmare 309-10, 313, 323, Langeais 193
wi-fi 363 Las Fallas de San José 385
Iskaheen 345 327, 336, 339 Last Supper, The 32
Isle of Anglesey 227-8, 233 Kensington Gardens 209 Laugharne 282
Isle of Skye 232 Keswick 251, 259 Lauterbrunnen 536-7
Isole Borromee 44 Kidwelly 283-5 Le Clos Lucé 191
Italian Lakes 10, 42-53 Kilfenora 357 Le Mesnil-sur-Oger 182
Italian language 110-11 Killarney 308, 313, 330-1, Leacanabuile 333
Italian Riviera 101-7 Leaning Tower of Pisa 79
Italy 25-115 339 Leeds Castle 237-8
accommodation 109 Killarney National Park 337 Lentos 572
car hire 108 Killorglin 311, 332, 339 L’Entroterra 106
costs 109 King’s College Chapel 292 León 407-8, 413
emergencies 108, 110 Kingussie 265-7 Les Arènes (Arles) 149
food 109 Kinlochleven 273, 277 Les Forges de Pyrène 160
fuel 108 Kloster Disentis 532 Les Langeais 187-8
internet access 109 Knocknadobar 333 Lienz 562
language 108, 110-11 Koblenz 482, 489 Linz 572, 575
mobile phones 109 Kölner Dom 481, 522 Lisdoonvarna 359
planning 108-9 Kolumba 523 Loch Affric 276
tipping 109 Krems an der Donau 574, Loch Garten 265
transport 109 Loch Linnhe 273
visas 108 575 Loch Lomond 230-1
weather 108 Krimmler Wasserfälle 563 Loch Morlich 264
websites 109 Kulturhaus 483 Loch Ness 274-6
wi-fi 109 Kunsthalle 574 Loches 189
Kunsthaus 548 Logroño 405, 412, 429, 430
Kunstmeile 574
Kunstmuseum 546
585
INDEX L-P Loire Valley 13, 185-93 Mojácar 377, 379, 386 Orihuela 380
London 208-10, 219, 237 Monaco 171 ospreys 265
Longues-sur-Mer 137 Monchique 466 Ouistreham 135-6
Lorelei Sculpture 486 Mönchsjochhütte 548 outdoor activities 21
Loreley 486 Mont St-Michel 125, 130 Outer Hebrides 232
Lucerne 547, 549 Montagne de Reims Oxford 210, 244, 245
Lyme Regis 223-4
Lyon 131 Champagne Route 178 P
Montalcino 61-2, 63
M Montepulciano 62, 63 Padua 32-3, 82-3
Muckross Estate 337 Palais des Nations 542-3
Madrid 417, 440-1 Mumbles, the 281-2, 289 Palatino 76
Magna Carta 211 Mumm 176 Palazzo Ducale 84
Mainz 488, 489 Musée du Louvre 198 Palazzo Vecchio 79
Mainzer Dom 488 Musée Picasso 166 Palermo 91, 98
Málaga 374-5, 386, 391-2, MuseumsQuartier 578 Pamplona 402-3, 412
music 353-61 Pantheon (Rome) 37, 77-8, 112
397 Panthéon (Paris) 199
Manchester 215-16, 219 N Panzano in Chianti 58-9
Marbella 395, 397 Paris 12, 122-3, 130, 198-9
Marburg 508-9, 516 Nájera 429 Parkmill 282-3
Märchenstrasse 513 Naples 37-8, 41 Pass of Glencoe 272-3
Mariendom 572 Narin 350, 351 Passau 570-1, 575
Marina del Cantone 68, 73 Nastro Azzurro 69 Pau 155-6, 161
Marina di Furore 69 National Trust Peak District National
Marksburg 483
Marsala 92, 98 membership 251 Park 228, 233
Marseille 149-50 Near Sawrey 256 Pembroke 287, 289
Matterhorn Glacier Nerja 391, 397 Peñafiel 422, 425
Neues Stadtmuseum 499 perfume 170
Paradise 537 New Forest 222-3, 233 Peso da Régua 452, 457
Matterhorn Museum 538 Nice 150, 151, 167, 172, 200-1 Petit Train d’Artouste 156
Mauthausen Memorial 572-3 Nocelle 68 Pfalzgrafstein 487
Meenaleck 349 Nordkettenbahnen 565 Phare de Verzenay 178
Melk 573 Nördlingen 495, 503 Pic du Midi 159
Mémorial – Un Musée pour Normandy American Cemetery Picasso, Pablo 377
Pinhão 453, 457
la Paix 135 & Memorial 139-40 Pisa 79-81, 87
Menton 170-1, 173 Noto 96, 99 Place de la Concorde 198
Mercat de la Boqueria 443 Plaza Mayor 440
Mercier 179-81 O Pointe du Hoc 140
Mijas 393 Pompeii 38
Milan 32 Oberwesel 483 Ponferrada 409-10
Miltown Malbay 356 Odeceixe 461-2 Pont Neuf 198
Miranda do Douro 456, 457 Oeschinensee 537 Ponte Vecchio 115
Modena 81-2, 87 Old Man of Coniston 256
Modica 95, 99 Omaha Beach 139-40
Moët & Chandon 179 Oriel y Parc 288
586
Portbradden 318 R Sant’Agata sui Due INDEX P-S
Portimão 465-6 Golfi 67-8
Portmagee 311 Ragusa 93
Porto 451-2 Rappenlochschlucht 566 Santiago de Compostela
Portsmouth 239 Rathlin Island 343 410-11, 413
Portstewart 344-5, 351 Rathmelton 348, 351
Portugal 445-473 Rathmullan 348 Santo Domingo de la
Ravello 71-2, 73 Calzada 406, 429-30, 435
accommodation 471 Reims 176-8, 183
car hire 470 reindeers 264 Santo Domingo de Silos 423
costs 471 Remagen 482 Sarlat-la-Canéda 127-8
currency 470 Rhine cruises 487 Savona 103-4
emergencies 470 Rhine Valley 19, 479-89 Scafell Pike 255
food 471 Rhossili 283, 289 scenic roads 13
fuel 470 Ring of Kerry 323, 329-39 Schilthorn 536-7
internet access 471 Roe Valley 345 Schloss Harburg 495
language 470 Roman Forum 77 Schloss
mobile phones 471 Romantic Road 491-503
money 471 Rome 37, 41, 76-8, 86, 112-13 Hohenschwangau 500-1
planning 470-1 Roncesvalles 401-2 Schloss
tipping 471 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin
transport 471 Neuschwanstein 500-1
visas 470 169-70 Schloss Weikersheim 494
weather 470 Ross Castle 338 Schloss Wilhelmshöhe 509
websites 471 Rossbeigh Strand 332-3 Schneeballen 495
wi-fi 471 Rothenburg ob der Tauber Schongau 499
Portuguese language 472-3 Sciacca 92-3
Positano 68, 73 494-5, 502 Scottish Highlands 12, 261-9
Potter, Beatrix 253, 256, 257 Roundstone 304 Seebad Utoquai 548
Praia da Arrifana 462 Rüdesheim 488, 489 Segesta 91
Praia da Falésia 466 Rue St-François de Paule 200 Segovia 417-18, 424
Praia da Rocha 465-6 Rydal Mount 250 Seilbahn 488
Praia de Vale Figueira 462-3 Rye 238 Selinunte 92
Praiano 69 Sentiero degli Dei 69
Promenade des Anglais 150, S Shakespeare’s Globe 210
167, 200 Sicily 89-99
Puebla de Sanabria 419 Sagres 463, 469 Siena 78
Puente la Reina 403 Sahagún 407 Silves 466
Pyrenees 153-61 Salamanca 418-19, 424 Sitges 383-4
Salisbury 211, 242, 245 Skellig Michael 310
Q Salzburg 561-2 Skellig Ring 333
Samos 410 Skiddaw 251
Quinta do Crasto 453 San Gimignano 78 Sky Road 304
Quinta do Vallado 452-3 San Millán de Cogolla 429 Slea Head 308
Quinta Nova 453 San Remo 105-6, 107 sled dogs 265
Santa María de Eunate 403 Sligo Town 319, 326-7
Sneem 336, 339
Snowdonia National
Park 225, 227
587
INDEX S-V Solva 287-8, 289 Stratford-upon-Avon 215-16 Therme Vals 531
Soria 423, 425 Stresa 44-6, 53 Thomas, Dylan 281, 282
Sorrento 67, 73 St-Savin 157, 161 Three Cliffs Bay 282
Spain 369-443 St-Stephan-Kirche 488 Three Sisters 272
Stubaital 566 Titanic Belfast 318-19, 343
accommodation 437 surfing 283 Tomintoul 264, 269
car hire 436 Swallows and Amazons 256 Torc Waterfall 338
costs 437 Swansea 281, 289 Tordesillas 421
currency 436 Swiss Alps 17, 529-39 Toro 419
emergencies 436, 438 Switzerland 525-553 Torre del Mangia 78
food 437 Torre Ghirlandina 82
fuel 436 accommodation 551 Torremolinos 392-3, 397
internet access 437 car hire 550 Toulouse 147, 151
languages 436, 438-9 costs 551 Transhumance 156
mobile phones 437 currency 550 Trapani 92, 98
money 437 emergencies 550 Tremezzo 50-2
transport 437 food 551 Trinity College 292-3, 302,
visas 436 fuel 550
weather 436 internet access 551 366
wi-fi 437 languages 550 Trophée des Alpes 167, 169
Spanish language 438-9 mobile phones 551 Trümmelbachfälle 536
St Anna Kirche 498 money 551 Tullyaughnish Church 348
St Bees Head 255 planning 550-1 Turin 30-2, 40
St Davids 288, 289 tipping 551 Tuscany 55-63
St Goar 486, 489 transport 551
St James 407 visas 550 U
St Mura Cross 347 weather 550
St Non’s Bay 288 websites 551 Uffington White
St Patrick’s Cathedral 366 wi-fi 551 Horse 210-11
St Paul’s Cathedral 237 Syracuse 96-7, 99
St Peter’s Basilica 37 Ullswater 258
Staatsoper 579 T Unesco Biosphere
Stackpole Estate 286
Stadtmuseum 495 Taittinger 176 Entlebuch 547
Stanserhorn 547 Taormina 97, 99 Unesco World Heritage
Steall Meadows 274 Tapisserie de Bayeux 125
Steinau 506-7 Tarascon-sur-Ariège 160 sites 75-87
St-Émilion 146, 151 Tarn Hows 257 Utah Beach 140
Stephansdom 579 Tarragona 382-3, 387
Stift Göttweig 574 Tauberbischofsheim 493-4 V
Stift Melk 573 Tauberfränkisches
Stock Ghyll Force 248 Valencia 382, 387
Stonehenge 15, 211, 213, 242 Landschaftsmuseum 494 Valentia Island 311, 333
St-Paul de Vence 166 Tavira 468, 469 Vallée d’Aspe 156
Teatro La Fenice 33 Vallée d’Ossau 156-7
Tenby 285, 289 Vals 531-2
Varenna 52
Varese 47
Vatican Museums 37
588
Venice 33-5, 40, 83-4, 87 Walk of the Gods 69 Worms Head 283 INDEX V-Z
Ventimiglia 106, 107 walks 198-9, 200-1 Wrynose Pass 255-6
Verbania 46, 53 Wasdale 254 Würzburg 492-3, 502
Verkehrshaus 547 waterfalls 248, 273
Verona 82 Waterville 335-6, 339 X
Versailles 124 Weikersheim 494
Verzenay 178 Weinhaus Heilig Grab 485 Xàtiva 381-2
Verzy 178 Werfen 562, 567
via ferrata 273 Westminster Abbey 208 Y
Viana 405 Westport 319-21
Vico Equense 67 Whinlatter Forest Park 254 York 217-18, 219
Vienna 574, 575, 578-9 whisky 268 Yorkshire Dales National
Vietri sul Mare 72 White Park Bay 318
Vieux Nice 200-1 Whitesands Bay 288 Park 228
views 20 Wieskirche 499-500
Vila Nova de Foz Côa 456 Wilhelmshöhe 509-10, 516 Z
Vila Nova de Milfontes 461 Willibaldsburg 498
Villa Romana del Casale 93 Willy Wonka 495 Zambujeira do Mar 461, 469
Villafranca del Bierzo 410 Winchester 211, 239-40, 245 Zamora 419, 424-5
Villandry 188 Windermere 248 Zell am See 563
Vinothèque 487-8 Windsurfcenter Zell Am Zell am Ziller 563, 565, 567
Viterbo 36-7 Zentrum Paul Klee 545
See 563 Zermatt 538
W wine 15, 21, 59, 536 Zumdorf 532
wine tours 55-63, 174-83, Zum Grünen Baum 487
Wade, General George 274 Zürich 548, 549
Wade’s Bridge 268 426-35, 448-57 Zytglogge 545
Wales 279-89 Wordsworth, William 250,
254
589
NICOLA WILLIAMS NEIL WILSON
British writer Nicola Williams has lived in France and Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most
written about it for more than a decade. From her of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-
hillside house on the southern shore of Lake Geneva, time writer since 1988, working on more than 80
road trips beckon to Provence, Paris, the Dordogne guidebooks, including the Lonely Planet guides to
and onwards to the Atlantic Coast where she has Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors
spent endless years revelling in its extraordinary enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-
landscapes, architecture and seafaring cuisine. walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher
Nicola has worked on numerous Lonely Planet titles, and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in
including Discover France and Paris. Find her on four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in
Twitter and Instagram at @Tripalong. Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo and the Old Man
of Hoy in the Orkney Islands.
Read more about Nicola at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/nicolawilliams Read more about Neil at https://auth.lonelyplanet.
com/profiles/neilwilson
590
DANIEL ROBINSON BRENDAN SAINSBURY
Co-author (with Tony Wheeler) of Lonely Planet’s first Originally from Hampshire, England, Brendan first
Paris guide, Daniel has been writing about France went to Spain on an Inter-rail ticket in the 1980s. He
for over 25 years. Passionate about history, he is went back as a travel guide several years later and
always moved by the grand châteaux of the Loire, the met his wife-to-be in a small village in rural Andalucía
sombre cemeteries of the Somme, and the dramatic in 2003. He has been writing books for Lonely Planet
and tragic events that both embody. Daniel’s travel for a decade, including four previous editions of the
writing has appeared in the New York Times, National Spain and Andalucía guides. Brendan loves Granada,
Geographic Traveler and many other publications the writing of Federico Lorca, cycling along via
and has been translated into 10 languages. He verdes, and attending as many flamenco shows as his
holds degrees in history from Princeton and Tel Aviv research allows.
University.
Read more about Brendan at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/brendansainsbury
ANDY SYMINGTON RYAN VER BERKMOES
Though he hails from Australia, Andy’s great- Ryan once lived in Germany. He spent three years in
grandfather emigrated to Portugal in the 19th century Frankfurt, during which time he edited a magazine
and that side of his family still calls the country home. until he got a chance for a new career with... Lonely
This connection means that he has been a frequent Planet. One of his first jobs was working on Lonely
visitor to the country since birth, and now nips across Planet’s Germany coverage. He loves smoked fish,
the border very frequently from his home in Spain. which serves him well in the north, and he loves beer,
Andy has authored and co-authored numerous Lonely which serves him well everywhere in Germany. Follow
Planet and other guidebooks. him at ryanverberkmoes.com and @ryanvb.
Read more about Andy at: https://auth. Read more about Ryan at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/andysymington lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ryanvb
591
PAULA HARDY CATHERINE LE NEVEZ
From the slopes of Valpolicella to the shores of Lake Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she
Como and the spritz-fuelled bars of Venice and Milan, roadtripped across Europe aged four. She’s
Paula has been contributing to Lonely Planet Italian been hitting the road at every opportunity since,
guides for over 15 years, including previous editions completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing,
of Venice & the Veneto, Pocket Milan, The Italian Lakes, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-graduate
Sicily, Sardinia, Puglia & Basilicata and Italy. When qualifications in editing and publishing along the way.
she’s not scooting around the bel paese, she writes Over the last dozen-plus years she’s written scores of
for a variety of travel publications and websites. Lonely Planet guides, along with numerous print and
Currently she divides her time between London, Italy online articles, covering destinations all over Europe
and Morocco, and tweets her finds @paula6hardy. and far beyond.
Read more about Paula at: https://auth. Read more about Catherine at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/paulahardy lonelyplanet.com/profiles/catherine_le_nevez
SALLY O’BRIEN JOSEPHINE QUINTERO
Australian-born Sally, a Lonely Planet writer since Spain is Josephine’s favourite country on earth and
2001, has called Switzerland home since 2007. she has lived in Málaga province on the Costa del
Swapping her surfboard for a snowboard, the beach Sol for over 20 years. As well as co-authoring four
for the lake and the barbecue for the caquelon, she editions of the Lonely Planet Spain title, she has
loves exploring Switzerland’s charming cities, the worked on the Andalucía regional guide and numerous
sublime Alps and lakes, and catching cable cars and other Lonely Planet titles. For this book her highlight
trains to stunning vantage points. It’s only fitting that was discovering still more fine dining venues in the
she became a naturalised Swiss citizen while on the cobbled Marbella backstreets.
road for this guide. She lives with her husband, Denis,
and their sons in the Lake Geneva region. Sally tweets Read more about Josephine at: https://auth.
@swissingaround. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/josephinequintero
592
MARC DI DUCA PETER DRAGICEVICH
A well-established travel guide author, Marc has
explored many corners of Germany over the last 25 After a successful career in niche newspaper
years but it’s to the quirky variety and friendliness and magazine publishing, both in his native New
of Bavaria that he returns most willingly. When not Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi
hiking Alpine valleys, eating snowballs in Rothenburg wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse
ob der Tauber or brewery hopping in Bamberg, he can roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade
be found in Sandwich, Kent, where he lives with his he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely
wife, Tanya, and their two sons. Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries,
all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls
Read more about Marc at: https://auth. Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/Madidu current nomadic existence means he’s hardly ever
there.
Read more about Peter at https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/peterdragicevich
DUNCAN GARWOOD ANTHONY HAM
A Brit travel writer based in the Castelli Romani hills
just outside Rome, Duncan has clocked up tens of In 2001, Anthony fell in love with Madrid on his first
thousands of kilometres driving through Italy and visit to the city. Less than a year later, he arrived
exploring its far-flung reaches. He’s co-author of on a one-way ticket, with not a word of Spanish and
the Rome city guide and has contributed to a host of not knowing a single person. After ten years living
Lonely Planet guidebooks including Italy, Piedmont, in the city, he recently returned to Australia with his
Sicily, Sardinia, and Naples and the Amalfi Coast. He Spanish-born family, but he still adores his adopted
has also written on Italy for newspapers, websites and country as much as the first day he arrived. When he’s
magazines. not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about
and photographs Spain, Scandinavia, the Middle East,
Read more about Duncan at: https://auth. Australia and Africa for newspapers and magazines
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/duncangarwood around the world. See www.anthonyham.com.
Read more about Anthony at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/anthonyham
593
OLIVER BERRY STUART BUTLER
Oliver Berry has explored nearly every corner of
France for Lonely Planet, travelling all the way Stuart’s first childhood encounters with Spain came
from the mountains of Corsica to the beaches of on a school trip to the far south of Spain and family
Normandy. He has also photographed and written holidays along the north coast. These left lasting
about France for many newspapers, magazines impressions and when he was older he spent every
and online publications. When not in France, he can summer on the Basque beaches, until one day he
usually be found wandering the beaches and clifftops found he was unable to tear himself away – he’s
of his home county, Cornwall. His latest work is been in the region ever since. His travels for Lonely
published at oliverberry.com. Planet, and a wide variety of magazines, have taken
him beyond Spain, to the shores of the Arctic, the
Read more about Oliver at: https://auth. mountains of Asia and the savannahs of Africa. His
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/oliverberry website is www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com.
Read more about Stuart at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/stuartbutler
KERRY CHRISTIANI FIONN DAVENPORT
Kerry's research for this guide included parts of Irish by birth and conviction, Fionn has been writing
Portugal and France. Her love affair with Portugal about his native country for more than two decades.
began as a child clambering along the cliffs of the He’s come and gone over the years, pulled abroad
Algarve. She later fell for the rest of the country – its to escape Dublin’s comfortable stasis and by the
captivating landscapes, super-friendly locals, fresh promise of adventure, but it has cemented his belief
seafood and photogenic light. She’s been travelling in that Ireland remains his favourite place to visit, if not
her beloved France since she first visited in her school always live in. These days, he has a weekly commute
days to brush up her français, which she went on to home to Dublin from Manchester, where he lives with
study to MA level. Kerry authors a number of Lonely his partner Laura and their car, Trevor. In Dublin he
Planet’s central and southern European titles and presents Inside Culture on RTE Radio 1 and writes
tweets @kerrychristiani. travel features for a host of publications, including
The Irish Times.
Read more about Kerry at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/KerryChristiani
594
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OUR OUR STORY
WRITERS
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sense of adventure. In 1972
that’s all Tony and Maureen
Wheeler needed for the
trip of a lifetime – across
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to Australia. It took several
months, and at the end –
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Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
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Only happy when her feet are suitably sandy, Belinda After growing up near Belfast, Isabel spent the next
has been (gleefully) travelling, researching and 15 years travelling and living all over the world. She
writing for Lonely Planet since 2006. It’s seen her has written for newspapers and magazines while
marvelling at Stonehenge at sunrise; scrambling based in London, Sydney and Buenos Aires; she
up Italian mountain paths; horse riding across has also worked on Lonely Planet titles such as
Donegal’s golden sands; kayaking down south Devon Borneo and Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei. But it’s in
rivers; gazing at Verona’s frescoes; fossil hunting on coming home to Ireland that she’s been able to fully
Dorset’s Jurassic Coast. A trained radio journalist, appreciate this beautiful corner of the world, from the
her innate nosiness means few likely-looking sleep bracing breezes of the Atlantic coast to the warmth of
spots go unexplored. See her VideoBlog posts at its cosy pubs.
https://belindadixon.com
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Read more about Belinda at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/isabelalbiston
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The Places You Must See In This World (DK Eyewitness Travel Guides)
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The Places You Must See In This World (DK Eyewitness Travel Guides)
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