The Places You Must See In This World (DK Eyewitness Travel Guides)

GF15 /·A595 GF16

Cockermouth \# Bassenthwaite

##]7 /·A66 /·A591 Mungrisdale \# \#
#\
Bassenthwaite ·/Troutbeck \#
¸0A5086 Lake Penruddock A66
0¸Low \# #\
High
Lorton #\ Lorton Whinlatter Applethwaite Threlkeld \# \# Pooley Bridge
Forest #\ #\ \#
#\ 0¸Scales
B5292 #÷ A5091
H# #Thackthwaite #\ p254 Braithwaite #\ #\ #\5 Keswick
·/Watermillock A592
#\
Loweswater Portinscale Dockray #\ Ullswater GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakes
#\ \# Little Town #\ Howtown
mK
0¸Lamplugh \#
B5289

Crummock \# Lodore
Water
\# Kirkland Grange #\ Thirlspot
#\ \# Croasdale Buttermere #1\#3 Ullswater
#\ #\ Watendlath

Buttermere \# Patterdale#\
Thirlmere
\# Rosthwaite
Ennerdale
Water Borrowdale & 6 #\
Buttermere
#Ennerdale Seatoller A591

7# 7 /·# /·Forest #\ Grasmere 4\#
Seathwaite
CUMBRIA A592
KirPkasstsone
NLaatkieonDailstPraicrkt
#÷ c

Ambleside
Wasdale 8#\ River Duddon
Trout Beck
#Nether #\

777Wasdale Rydal
Wastwater Great Langdale \#3 Kentmere
Elterwater \# #]#2 \#
\# Hardknott Pass &

\#Gosforth 77# ·/ ¸0\# Santon Bridge Boot #\
Wrynose Pass Little #\ Townend
A593 \# Troutbeck Bridge
\# 10 \# Langdale B5286

Irton \# Cockley
#\#9 Beck
777 ¸0Eskdale Hawkshead
]# Windermere
# H## # /·\# B5285 1#\2 Near
Sawrey
77 LlRavenglass
Coniston 1]#1 #\1 Bowness- A591
#\ Seathwaite
p258 #\ on-Windermere

·/ GF /·Ulpha\# Torver #\ ÷#\#
Coniston 15 Windermere
Water Grizedale
Forest A592

·/A595 A593

e# 0 10 km
0 5 miles

\# #\ LINK#\ #\ #\
YOUR\# \##\
The Drive » Take the A593 g Britain’s Wild
TRIP Side
west towards Skelwith Bridge,
and follow signs to Elterwater f The Best of Head north or south
and Great Langdale. It’s a Britain along the A591 to visit
wonderful 8-mile drive that gets more of the Britain’s
wilder and wilder the deeper Start this circuit of glorious natural beauty
you head into the valley. There’s Britain’s greatest hits spots.
a large car park beside the Old by picking up the M6
Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, but it gets at Penrith between
busy in summer; there’s usually Manchester and
overflow parking available in a Edinburgh.
nearby field.

249

PIXELBUCKET / 500PX ©3 Great Langdaleh9.30am-5.30pm), a tiny
house where he lived
GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic LakesThe Lake District has with his sister Dorothy,
some truly stunning val- wife Mary and three
leys, but Great Langdale children between 1798 to a recipe formulated
definitely ranks near the and 1807. Guided tours in 1854.
top. As you pass through explore the house, and
the pretty village of next door the Words- 4 p259
Elterwater and its village worth Museum has lots The Drive » From Grasmere,
green, the scenery gets of memorabilia relating
really wild and empty. to the Romantic poets continue north on the A591.
Fells stack up like domi- (including haunting life You’ll pass through the dramatic
noes along the horizon, masks of John Keats and pass known as Dunmail Raise,
looming over a patch- Wordsworth). where a great battle is said
work of barns and fields. to have taken place between
If you’re up for a hike, A little way south of the Saxons and the Celtic king
then tackle the multi- Grasmere is the house Dunmail, who was slain near the
peak circuit around the where Wordsworth spent pass. Stay on the road past the
Langdale Pikes. Alterna- most of his adult life,
tively, the more sedentary Rydal Mount (%015394-
option is to just admire 33002; www.rydalmount.
the view over a pint of
ale from the cosy bar of co.uk; adult/child £7.50/3.50,
the Old Dungeon Ghyll
(%015394-37272; www.odg. grounds only £4.50;
co.uk; Great Langdale; s £58, d
£116-132; pW#), a classic h9.30am-5pm Mar-Oct,
hikers’ haunt.
11am-4pm Wed-Mon Nov, Dec
The Drive » Retrace the road & Feb). It’s still owned by
the poet’s descendants,
to Ambleside and head north and is a much grander
to Grasmere on the A591 for affair than Dove Cottage:
5 miles. you can have a look
around the library, visit
TRIP HIGHLIGHT the poet’s attic study and
wander around the gar-
4 Grasmere dens he designed. Below
the house, Dora’s Field
The lovely little village of is filled with daffodils
Grasmere is inextricably in springtime; it was
linked with the poet planted in memory of
William Wordsworth, Wordsworth’s daughter,
who made it his home in who died of tuberculosis.
the late 18th century and
never left unless he really If you have a sweet
had to. Two of his houses tooth, you’ll also want
are now open to the pub- to pick up a souvenir at
lic. The most famous is
Dove Cottage (%015394- Sarah Nelson’s Ginger-
35544; www.wordsworth.org. bread Shop (%015394-
uk; adult/child £7.50/4.50; 35428; www.grasmereginger

bread.co.uk; Church Cottage;

h9.15am-5.30pm Mon-Sat,
12.30-5pm Sun), which still
makes its gingerbread

250

lake of Thirlmere all the way to Grizedale Forest Woodland stream
Keswick (13 miles).
TOP TIP:
5 Keswick NATIONAL TRUST
MEMBERSHIP
Another of the Lake
District’s classic market Being a National Trust (www.nationaltrust.org.uk)
towns, Keswick is a place member comes in very handy in the Lake District.
that revolves around the The Trust owns several key attractions, including Hill
great outdoors. Sev- Top and the Beatrix Potter Gallery near Hawkshead,
eral big fells lie on its Wordsworth House in Cockermouth and Fell Foot and
doorstep, including the Wray Castle near Windermere. Best of all, you get
imposing lump of Skid- to park for free at all the NT’s car parks – handy in
daw and the dramatic celebrated beauty spots like Buttermere, Borrowdale,
Wasdale, Gowbarrow Park and Tarn Hows.

251

ANDREW ROLAND / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
OLIVER BERRY,
WRITER

For classic English scenery, nowhere
quite compares to the Lake District.
With its fells and waterfalls, valleys
and villages, lakes and meadows, it’s
like a postcard that’s come to life.
It’s visited by some 13 million people
every year, but it’s still easy to find
peace and serenity – whether it’s
rowing across a lake, cycling through
the countryside or standing atop
a fell. Pack spare memory cards –
you’ll need them.

Left: A classic ploughman’s lunch
Above: Grasmere, home to poet William
Wordsworth
Right: Hiking around Tarn Hows

GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakesridge of Blencathra, but
it’s the lake of Derwent-
JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET © water that really draws
the eye: it was said to be
Beatrix Potter’s favourite,
and she supposedly got
the idea for Squirrel Nut-
kin while watching red
squirrels frolicking on
its shores. The Keswick
Launch (%017687-72263;
www.keswick-launch.co.uk;
round-the-lake adult/child/
family £10.25/5.15/24) trav-
els out around the lake
year-round.

Back in town, don’t
miss a visit to George
Fisher (%017687-72178;
www.georgefisher.co.uk; 2 Bor-
rowdale Rd; h9am-5.30pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun), the
most famous outdoors
shop in the Lake District:
if you need a new pair of
hiking boots, this is defi-
nitely the place to come.

4 p259

The Drive » The drive into

Borrowdale on the B5289 is a
beauty, passing several pretty
villages as it travels through
the valley. You can’t get lost en
route to Honister Pass (10 miles
from Keswick) – there’s only one
road to take; Buttermere lies
on the other side of the pass.
You’ll want to stop for numerous
photos on the way.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT

6 Borrowdale &
Buttermere

South of Keswick, the
B5289 tracks along the
eastern side of Der-
wentwater and enters
the bucolic valley of
Borrowdale, a classic
Lakeland canvas of fields,

253

GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakes fells, streams and endless and is backed by a string £7.20/3.60; h11am-5pm
drystone walls. It’s worth of impressive fells. The Sat-Thu Mar-Oct) in Cock-
stopping off to see the summit of Haystacks is a ermouth. Now owned
geological oddity of the popular route: it was the by the National Trust,
Bowder Stone, a huge favourite fell of Alfred it’s been redecorated
boulder deposited by a Wainwright, who penned in period style accord-
glacier, and for a quick the definitive seven- ing to details published
hike up to the top of Cas- volume set of guidebooks in Wordsworth’s own
tle Crag, which has the of the Lake District’s fells father’s accounts: you
best views of the valley. between the 1950s and can wander round the
’70s. It’s a two- to three- drawing room, kitchen,
Then it’s up and over hour return walk from pantry and garden, and
the perilously steep Buttermere. see the rooms where lit-
Honister Pass, where the tle Willie and his brother
Lake District’s last work- The Drive » From Buttermere John slept.
ing slate mine (%017687-
77230; www.honister-slate village, bear left on the B5289 Cockermouth is also
signed towards Loweswater the home of local beer-
-mine.co.uk; mine tour adult/ and Crummock Water, which maker Jennings Brewery
continues into the Lorton Valley. (%01900-821011; www.
child £12.50/7.50; htours At Low Lorton, stay on the jenningsbrewery.co.uk; adult/
B5289, which continues 4 miles child £9/4.50; hguided tours
10.30am, 12.30pm & 3.30pm to Cockermouth. Total distance: 1.30pm Wed-Sat), where
Mar-Oct) is still doing a 11 miles. you can take a guided
thriving trade. You can tour and learn about
take a guided tour down 7 Cockermouth the brewing process,
into the mine or brave then sample a couple
the heights along the Grasmere might be of ales such as Cocker
stomach-upsetting Via Wordsworth central, but Hoop and the excellently
Ferrata, and pick up slate completists will want to named Sneck Lifter. Just
souvenirs in the shop. visit the poet’s childhood a snifter, mind – you’re
home (NT; %01900- driving, after all.
Nearby Buttermere 824805; Main St; adult/child
has a sparkling twinset The Drive » Head west on the
of lakes, Buttermere
and Crummock Water, A66 and detour onto the A595,
which tracks the coast all the
DETOUR: way to Whitehaven. To reach
WHINLATTER Wasdale (35 miles all up), turn
FOREST PARK off at Gosforth, and then follow
signs to Nether Wasdale and
Start: 6 Buttermere (p253) Wasdale Head. It’s quite easy to
Encompassing 1200 hectares of pine, larch and miss the turning, so keep your
spruce, Whinlatter (www.forestry.gov.uk/whinlatter) is eyes peeled; sat-navs can be
England’s only true mountain forest, rising sharply very unreliable here.
to 790m about 5 miles from Keswick. The forest is
a designated red squirrel reserve; you can check TRIP HIGHLIGHT
out live video feeds from squirrel cams at the visitor
centre. It’s also home to two exciting mountain-bike 8 Wasdale
trails and a tree-top assault course. You can hire
bikes next to the visitor centre. Wild Wasdale is argu-
ably the most dramatic
To get to Whinlatter Forest Park from Buttermere, valley in the national
look out for the right turn onto the B5292 at Low park. Carving its way for
Lorton, which climbs up to Whinlatter Pass. 5 miles from the coast,

254

it was gouged out by a DETOUR: GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakes
long-extinct glacier dur- ST BEES HEAD
ing the last Ice Age; if
you look closely, you can Start: 7 Cockermouth
still see glacial marks on
the scree-strewn slopes Cumbria’s coastline might not have the white
above Wastwater. Most sandy beaches of Wales or the epic grandeur of the
people come for the Scottish coast, but it has a bleak beauty all of its
chance to reach the sum- own – not to mention a renowned seabird reserve at
mit of Scafell Pike, Eng- St Bees Head (RSPB; [email protected]), where
land’s highest point; it’s a you can spot species including fulmars, herring
tough six- to seven-hour gulls, kittiwakes and razorbills. You can also look for
slog, but the views from England’s only nesting black guillemots at nearby
the top are quite literally Fleswick Bay. Just try and forget the fact that one of
as good as they get (as- the UK’s largest nuclear reactors, Sellafield, is round
suming the weather plays the corner.
ball, of course).
The village of St Bees is 5 miles south of White-
Afterwards, reward haven, and the headland is signposted from there.
yourself with a meal at
the Wasdale Head Inn coast. Now known as the TRIP HIGHLIGHT
(%019467-26229; www.
wasdale.com; s £59, d Ravenglass & Eskdale a Hardknott Pass &
£118-130, tr £177; pW), a Railway (%01229-717171; Wrynose Pass
gloriously olde-worlde www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk;
hostelry with lashings adult/child/family return At the eastern end of
of mountain heritage: it £13.50/6.75/38; c), its Eskdale lie England’s
was here that the sport miniature choo-choos two steepest road passes,
of rock climbing was pio- are a beloved Lakeland Hardknott and Wrynose.
neered in the mid-19th attraction. They chuff Reaching 30% gradient
century. for 7 miles along the in some places, and with
valley from the station at precious few passing
The Drive » Retrace your Ravenglass to the final places on the narrow,
terminus at Dalegarth. single-file road, they’re
route to Gosforth, and take the Nearby, the Boot Inn absolutely not for the
coast road (A595) south to (%019467-23224; www. faint-hearted or for
Ravenglass and follow signs to thebooteskdale.co.uk; Boot; nervous drivers – but the
Eskdale (22 miles). Alternatively, mains £10-18; p) makes a views are amazing, and
there’s a shortcut into Eskdale pleasant stop for lunch. they’re doable if you take
via Nether Wasdale and Santon things slow (although it’s
Bridge, but it’s easy to get lost, The Drive » Since you’re probably best to leave the
especially if you’re relying on caravan or motor home
sat-nav; a good road map is driving, the most sensible idea is in the garage). Make sure
really handy here. to park near Dalegarth Station, your car has plenty of
ride the train to Ravenglass oil and water, as you’ll
9 Eskdale and back, and then set off for do much of the road in
Hardknott Pass. There’s only 1st gear, and the strain
The valley of Eskdale was one road east. Take it and get on the engine can be
once a centre for mineral- ready for a hair-raising, white- taxing. Take it slow, and
mining, and a miniature knuckle drive. It’s 6 (very steep!)
steam train was built miles from Eskdale to Hardknott
to carry ore down from Pass.
the hillsides to the

255

GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakes take breaks – you need the counties of Cumber- hikers, but it’s perhaps
to keep your focus on the land, Westmorland and best known for the world
road ahead. Lancashire histori- speed record attempts
cally met. Then it’s a slow made here by father and
From Eskdale, the descent down through son Malcolm and Donald
road ascends via a hairpins and corners to Campbell between the
series of very sharp, the packhorse Slaters 1930s and 1960s. Though
steep switchbacks to the Bridge and on into the they jointly broke many
remains of Hardknott valley of Little Langdale. records, in 1967 Donald
Fort, a Roman outpost Phew! You made it. was tragically killed
where you can still see during an attempt in his
the remains of some of The Drive » Once you reach jet-boat Bluebird; the lit-
the walls. Soon after you tle Ruskin Museum (www.
reach Hardknott Pass at Little Langdale, follow the road ruskinmuseum.com; adult/
393m (1289ft). The vistas east until you reach the A593, child £6/3; h10am-5.30pm
here are magnificent: the main road between Skelwith Easter–mid-Nov, 10.30am-
you’ll be able to see all Bridge and Coniston. Turn right 3.30pm Wed-Sun mid-Nov–
the way to the coast on and follow it for 5 miles. Easter) has the full story.
a clear day. Next you’ll
drop down into Cockley b Coniston Coniston Water is also
Beck before continuing said to have been the
the climb up to Wrynose South of Ambleside, the inspiration for Arthur
Pass (393m/1289ft). Near old mining village of Ransome’s classic chil-
the summit is a small Coniston is dominated dren’s tale, Swallows and
car park containing the by its hulking fell, the Amazons. The best way
Three Shire Stone, where Old Man of Coniston, an to explore is aboard the
ever-popular objective for Steam Yacht Gondola (NT;
%015394-63850; www.
HILL TOP nationaltrust.org.uk/steam-
yacht-gondola; Coniston
Two miles from Hawkshead in the tiny village of Near Jetty; half lake adult/child
Sawrey, the idyllic cottage at Hill Top (NT; %015394- return £11/5.50, full lake adult/
36269; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hill-top; adult/child £10/5, child/family £21.50/10/51),
admission to garden & shop free; hhouse 10am-5.30pm a beautifully restored
Mon-Thu, 10am-4.30pm Fri-Sun, garden 10am-5.45pm steam yacht built in 1859.
Mon-Thu, 10am-5pm Fri-Sun) is the most famous house It travels over the lake
in the whole of the Lake District. It belonged to to the stately home of
Beatrix Potter, and was used as inspiration for many Brantwood (%015394-
of her tales: the house features directly in Samuel 41396; www.brantwood.org.uk;
Whiskers, Tom Kitten, Pigling Bland and Jemima adult/child £7.50/free, gardens
Puddleduck, and you will doubtless recognise the only £4.95/free; h10.30am-
kitchen garden from Peter Rabbit. 5pm mid-Mar–mid-Nov, to 4pm
Wed-Sun mid-Nov–mid-Mar),
Following her death in 1943, Beatrix bequeathed owned by the Victorian
Hill Top (along with more than 4000 acres of land) to polymath, critic, painter
the National Trust, with the proviso that the house be and inveterate collector
left with her belongings and decor untouched. The John Ruskin. The house
house formed the centrepiece for celebrations to is packed with furniture
mark the author’s 150th birthday in 2016. and crafts, and the gar-
dens are glorious.
Entry is by timed ticket; it’s very, very popular, so
try visiting in late afternoon or on weekdays to avoid 4 p259
the worst crowds.

256

JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET ©

Ambleside Bar at the historic Drunken Duck pub

The Drive » Heading north ably pretty confection of and botanical paintings
whitewashed cottages, (she had a particular
from Coniston, turn right onto winding lanes and slate fascination with fungi).
the B5285 up Hawkshead roofs. It’s car-free, so you
Hill. You’ll pass Tarn Hows and can wander at will: don’t Nearby, make a detour
the Drunken Duck en route to miss the Beatrix Potter via the manmade lake
Hawkshead, about 4 miles east. Gallery (NT; www.national- of Tarn Hows before
trust.org.uk/beatrix-potter-gal- stopping for lunch at
c Hawkshead the Lake District’s finest
lery; Red Lion Sq; adult/child dining pub, the wonder-
If you’re searching for fully named Drunken
the perfect chocolate-box £6/3; h10.30am-5pm Sat-Thu Duck.
lakeland village, look no mid-Mar–Oct), which has a
further – you’ve found it collection of the artist’s 5 p259
in Hawkshead, an improb- original watercolours

257

GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakes The Drive » Head back to DETOUR:
GRIZEDALE FOREST
Ambleside and then follow
the A591 back towards Start: c Hawkshead (p257)
Windermere. Just before you
reach it, take the turn-off onto Stretching for 6000 acres across the hilltops
the A592 to Troutbeck Bridge, between Coniston Water and Esthwaite Water,
which climbs up to the lofty Grizedale Forest (www.forestry.gov.uk/grizedale) is
Kirkstone Pass – at 454m this a wonderful place for a wander. It’s criss-crossed
is the highest mountain pass by cycling trails, and is also home to more than
in Cumbria that’s open to road 40 outdoor sculptures created by artists over the
traffic. It’s steep, but it’s a main last 30 years, including a xylophone and a man
A-road so it’s well maintained. of the forest. There’s an online guide at www.
grizedalesculpture.org.
d Ullswater
As you leave the Hawkshead car park, you’ll
From the windlashed immediately see a brown sign for Grizedale, heading
heights of Kirkstone right onto North Lonsdale Rd. Just follow the brown
Pass, the A592 loops signs from here – it’s 3 miles’ drive from the village.
down towards the last
stop on this jaunt around As you skirt up the For an epic end to the
the Lake District: stately lake’s western edge, it’s trip, strap on your hiking
Ullswater, the national worth stopping for a boots and tackle the
park’s second-largest lake walk around Gowbar- famous ridge climb via
(after Windermere). It’s row Park, where there’s Striding Edge to the sum-
an impressive sight, its a clattering waterfall to mit of Helvellyn, the Lake
silvery surface framed by admire called Aira Force, District’s third-highest
jagged fells and plied by and impressive displays mountain at 950m. You’ll
the puttering Ullswater of daffodils in springtime need a head for heights,
‘Steamers’ (%017684- (Wordsworth dreamt up but you’ll feel a real sense
82229; www.ullswater-steam- his most famous poem of achievement: you’ve
ers.co.uk; round-the-lake adult/ while walking nearby, just conquered perhaps
child £13.90/6.95); you can the one which starts ‘I the finest hill walk in all
also hire your own ves- wandered lonely as a of England.
sels from the Glenridding cloud...’).
Sailing Centre.

258

Eating & Sleeping

Bowness-on-Windermere 1 Keswick 5

4 Cranleigh Hotel £££ 4 Howe Keld B&B ££

(%015394-43293; www.thecranleigh.com; (%017687-72417; www.howekeld.co.uk; 5-7 The

Kendal Rd, Bowness-on-Windermere; d £119-189, Heads; s £60-85, d £112-130; pW) This gold- GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakes

ste £305-515; pW) This guesthouse has standard B&B pulls out all the stops: goose-down

gone all out on the decor, but strip away the duvets, slate-floored bathrooms, chic colours

snazziness and it’s still just a B&B. It’s worth and locally made furniture. The best rooms have

bumping up to the superior for the spacious views across Crow Park and the golf course,

bathrooms or maybe blowing the budget on one and the breakfast is a pick-and-mix delight. Free

of the two over-the-top suites (check out the parking is available on The Heads if there’s space.

Sanctuary, complete with Bose stereo, glass

bath and picture-fireplace). Coniston b

Ambleside 2 4 Bank Ground Farm B&B ££

5 Lake Road Kitchen Bistro £££ (%015394-41264; www.bankground.com;

East of the Lake; d from £90; p) This lakeside

(%015394-22012; www.lakeroadkitchen.co.uk; farmhouse has literary cachet: Arthur Ransome

Lake Rd; 5-/8-course tasting menu £50/80; used it as the model for Holly Howe Farm in

h6-9.30pm Wed-Sun) This much-lauded new Swallows and Amazons. Parts of the house date

bistro has brought some dazzle to Ambleside’s back to the 15th century, so the rooms are snug.

dining scene. Its Noma-trained head chef Some have sleigh beds, others exposed beams.

James Cross explores the ‘food of the north’, The tearoom is a beauty too, and there are

and his multicourse tasting menus are chock cottages for longer stays. Two-night minimum.

full of locally sourced, seasonal and foraged

ingredients, from shore-sourced seaweed to Hawkshead c

forest-picked mushrooms. Presentation is

impeccable, flavours are experimental, and 5 Drunken Duck Pub Food £££

the Scandi-inspired decor is just so. A meal not

to miss. (%015394-36347; www.drunkenduckinn.co.uk;

Barngates; lunch mains £7-12, dinner mains £22;

Grasmere 4 hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm; pW) Long one of the

Lakes’ premier dining destinations, the Drunken

4 How Foot Lodge B&B ££ Duck blends historic pub and fine-dining

restaurant. On a wooded crossroads on the top

(%015394-35366; www.howfootlodge.co.uk; of Hawkshead Hill, it’s renowned for its luxurious

Town End; d £76-85; p) Just a stroll from food and home-brewed ales, and the flagstones

Dove Cottage, this stone house has six rooms and sporting prints conjure a convincing country

finished in fawns and beiges; the nicest are the atmosphere. Book well ahead for dinner or take

deluxe doubles, one with a sun terrace and the your chances at lunchtime.

other with a private sitting room. Rates are an If you fancy staying, you’ll find the rooms

absolute bargain considering the location. (£105 to £325) are just as fancy as the food. The

pub’s tricky to find: drive along the B5286 from

Hawkshead towards Ambleside and look out for

the brown signs.

259

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
a
1269
3269
4269
6269

9269
a269

GIMAS / SHUTTERSTOCK © #

Royal Highlands

19& Cairngorms

The heart of the Scottish Highlands features a feast of castles and
mountains, wild rollercoaster roads, ancient Caledonian pine
forest, and the chance to see Highland wildlife up close and personal.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

110 miles 51 miles 4–5 DAYS
Blair Castle Loch Garten 149 MILES /
Explore the home of Watch ospreys nesting 238KM
the dukes of Atholl, amid ancient
Scotland's leading Caledonian pine forest GREAT FOR...
aristocratic family
GJB
#5#
BEST TIME TO GO
LlBraemar # #2
July and August mean
##9 9 miles good weather and all
Balmoral Castle attractions are open.
Km# Aberfeldy Visit Her Majesty the
Queen's own Highland I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
estate
The gorgeous view of
Schiehallion mountain
from Queen’s View on
Loch Tummel.

K BEST FOR
WILDLIFE

Watching the nesting
ospreys at Loch
Garten.

LBoaclmatoioranl CCaapsttiloenOdneetaoilfsthtoegrooyhaelrfeamily’s residences 261

19 Royal Highlands
& Cairngorms

You’ll tick off the highlights of Royal Deeside and the central Highlands as
you make this circuit around Cairngorms National Park. Queen Victoria kick-
started the Scottish tourism industry when she purchased Balmoral Castle in
the middle of the 19th century, and her descendants still holiday here. Later,
heed the call of the great outdoors with a visit to an osprey nesting site, and
a funicular ride to a mountain top.

Loch Ness Grantown- Cabrach #\
Bridge
·/ on-Spey \# of Brown
A9
##\
GF20 \# Foyers Carrbridge \# Broomhill \#4 Tomintoul
#\

#5 Loch
Garten Blairnamarrow#\
\# Invermoriston Monadhliath
Mountains
#Aviemore 6#\ \# Coylumbridge
H# ¸0Highland Cairngorms Cock \# #\ Calnabaichin
National Park Bridge A939
#Wildlife Park 7 Cairn Gorm Gairn
(1245m) #3\ Ballater
Kingussie\#
Newtonmore \#

# #8
\# Kincraig p264
Ben Macdui R
R

(1309m) Cairngorm

Mountains #2 Balmoral
Highland lL #Braemar \#1
Sp ey Folk Museum Castle

/·A86 R
Lochnagar
\# Dalwhinnie
Pattack (1155m)

·/ Grampian Mountains \# Clova
A9
Forfar \#
Spittal of
\# Glenshee 20 km
Blair Atholl 10 miles
#ELoricchht Ben Vrackie
R (840m)
Killichonan \#
Tay #\9 \# Cray
RKainn\#nlooccThuhmme\#lFPoarreksQt ue#en's
\# Killiecrankie \# Kirkmichael
\# Pitlochry
Loch
Rannoch Bridge View

Bridge of # KmFortingall
Balgie \# \#
1\#0 Aberfeldy
H# Ben
LLyoochn Lawers Loch \# Kenmore #\ Blairgowrie
p268 (1214m)R
Tay \# Dunkeld

GF40 miles to 15‚ e# 0
0

1 Braemar There are Highland quarters! The main at- GREAT BRITAIN 19 Royal Highlands & Cairngorms
games in many towns traction is learning about
Braemar is a pretty little and villages throughout Highland estate manage-
village with a grand the summer, but the best ment, rather than royal
location on a broad plain known is the Braemar revelations.
ringed by mountains Gathering (www.brae
where the Dee valley margathering.org), which You can buy a booklet
and Glen Clunie meet. takes place on the first that details several
In winter this is one of Saturday in September. waymarked walks within
the coldest places in the Balmoral Estate; the best
country – temperatures 5 4 p269 is the climb to Prince
as low as -29°C have been Albert’s Cairn.
recorded. The Drive » The upper valley
The Drive » Continue east
Just north of the vil- of the River Dee stretches east
lage, turreted Braemar from Braemar to Aboyne. Made on the A93 for another 8 miles
Castle (www.braemarcastle. famous by its long association to Ballater.
co.uk; adult/child £8/4; with the monarchy, the region is
h10am-4pm daily Jul & Aug, often called Royal Deeside. Head 3 Ballater
Wed-Sun Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct; east from Braemar on the A93
p) dates from 1628 and for 9 miles to the car park at the The attractive village of
served as a government entrance to Balmoral Castle. Ballater owes its 18th-
garrison after the 1745 century origins to the
Jacobite rebellion. It was TRIP HIGHLIGHT curative waters of nearby
taken over by the local Pannanich Springs (now
community in 2007, and 2 Balmoral Castle bottled commercially as
now offers guided tours Deeside Natural Mineral
of the historic castle Built for Queen Victoria Water), and its prosper-
apartments. in 1855 as a private ity to nearby Balmoral
residence for the royal Castle.
LINK family, Balmoral Castle
YOUR (%01339-742534; www. The village recently
TRIP balmoralcastle.com; Crathie; received a double dose
adult/child £11.50/5; h10am- of misfortune when the
k Great Glen 5pm Apr-Jul, last admission Old Royal Station (its
The stirring 4.30pm; p) kicked off the main tourist attraction)
wilderness of the revival of the Scottish burned down in May
northwest Highlands Baronial style of archi- 2015, followed by the
awaits – it’s an hour and tecture that characterises worst flooding in living
three-quarters west to so many of Scotland’s memory in January 2016.
Glen Coe. 19th-century country Most businesses were
houses. The admission open again by summer
f The Best of fee includes an interest- 2016, but the the station
Britain ing and well-thought-out may remain closed until
audioguide, but the tour 2018.
Head an hour and a half is very much an outdoor
south to Edinburgh to one through garden and There are many pleas-
begin our epic loop of grounds. ant walks in the sur-
Britain’s greatest hits at rounding area. The steep
its midpoint. As for the castle itself, woodland walk up Craig-
only the ballroom, which endarroch (400m) takes
displays a collection of just over one hour; ask
Landseer paintings and at the tourist office for
royal silver, is open to the more info. If you’d rather
public. Don’t expect to cycle, you can hire bikes
see the Queen’s private

263

GREAT BRITAIN 19 Royal Highlands & Cairngorms from CycleHighlands (637m) where there’s a small ry, with reconstructions
(%01339-755864; www. skiing area (it’s usually the first of a crofter’s kitchen and
cyclehighlands.com; The road in Scotland to be blocked a blacksmith’s forge.
Pavilion, Victoria Rd; bicycle by snow when winter closes in).
hire per half-day/day £12/18; There’s excellent
h9am-6pm) and Bike 4 Tomintoul mountain biking at the
Station (%01339-754004; BikeGlenlivet (www.glen-
www.bikestationballater.co.uk; Tomintoul (tom-in-towel) livetestate.co.uk; trails free,
Station Sq; bicycle hire per 3hr/ is a pretty, stone-built parking £3) trail centre, 4.5
day £12/18; h9am-6pm), village with a grassy, miles north of Tomintoul,
which also offer guided tree-lined main square. It off the B9136 road.
bike rides and advice on was built by the Duke of
local trails. Gordon in 1775 on the old 5 4 p269
military road that leads
4 p269 over the Lecht pass from The Drive » Continue
Corgarff, a route now fol-
The Drive » The A939 strikes lowed by the A939. The northwest from Tomintoul on
village’s recently refur- the A939 for 8.5 miles before
north through the mountains bished and extended turning left on a minor road to
from Ballater to Tomintoul (25 museum (%01807-580285; the village of Nethy Bridge. In
miles). The section beyond The Square; h10am-5pm Apr- the village, turn left towards
Cock Bridge is a magnificent Oct) celebrates local histo- Aviemore on the B970 then,
rollercoaster of a road, much after 600m, turn left again on a
loved by motorcyclists, minor road to Loch Garten (total
summiting at the Lecht pass 17 miles).

DETOUR:
CAIRNGORM MOUNTAIN

Start: 6 Aviemore

Cairngorm Mountain (1245m), 10 miles southeast of Aviemore, is the sixth-highest
summit in the UK and home to Scotland’s biggest ski area. A funicular railway ferries
skiers almost to the top of the mountain, and continues to operate throughout the
summer so that visitors can get a taste of the high mountain plateau.

The Cairngorm Mountain Railway (%01479-861261; www.cairngormmountain.org;
adult/child return £11.50/7.50; hevery 20min 10am-4pm May-Nov, 9am-4.30pm Dec-Apr; p)
is the national park’s most popular attraction, whisking you to the edge of the
Cairngorm plateau (altitude 1085m) in just eight minutes. The bottom station is at
the Coire Cas car park at the end of Ski Rd; at the top is an exhibition, a shop (of
course) and a restaurant. For environmental and safety reasons, you’re not allowed
out of the top station in summer unless you book a guided walk or mountain-bike
descent; check the website for details.

Six miles east of Aviemore, on the road to Cairngorm Mountain, Loch Morlich
is surrounded by some 8 sq miles of pine and spruce forest that make up the
Glenmore Forest Park. Its attractions include a sandy beach (at the east end) and a
watersports centre.

Nearby, the Cairngorm Reindeer Centre (www.cairngormreindeer.co.uk; Glenmore;
adult/child £14/8; hclosed early Jan–mid-Feb; c) runs guided walks to see and feed
Britain’s only herd of reindeer, who are very tame and will even eat out of your hand.
Walks take place at 11am daily (weather-dependent), plus another at 2.30pm from
May to September, and a third at 3.30pm Monday to Friday in July and August.

264

TRIP HIGHLIGHT cruising the outdoor- Mar; p) features a drive- GREAT BRITAIN 19 Royal Highlands & Cairngorms
equipment shops or through safari park as
5 Loch Garten recounting their latest well as animal enclosures
adventures in the cafes that offer the chance to
A car park on the shores and bars. view rarely seen native
of Loch Garten, amid wildlife, such as Scottish
beautiful open forest Strathspey Steam wildcats, capercaillies,
of Scots pine, gives ac- Railway (%01479-810725; pine martens and red
cess to the RSPB Loch Station Sq; return adult/child squirrels, as well as spe-
Garten Osprey Centre £14.25/7.15; p) runs steam cies that once roamed the
(%01479-831694; www.rspb. trains on a section of Scottish hills but have
org.uk/lochgarten; Tulloch; restored line between long since disappeared,
osprey hide adult/child £5/2; Aviemore and Broomhill, including wolves, lynx,
hosprey hide 10am-6pm 10 miles to the north- wild boars, beavers and
Apr-Aug). Ospreys nest in east, via Boat of Garten. European bison. Last
a tall pine tree on the There are four or five entry is two hours before
reserve – you can watch trains daily from June closing.
from a hide as the birds to August, and a more
feed their young, and limited service in April, The Drive » Continue
see live CCTV feeds from May, September, October
the nest. These rare and and December. southwest on the B9152 through
beautiful birds – the Kingussie to the Highland Folk
only bird of prey in the The Cairngorm Sled- Museum (6.5 miles).
world that eats only Dog Centre (%07767-
fish – migrate here each 270526; www.sled-dogs. 8 Highland Folk
spring from Africa, arriv- co.uk; Ski Rd; c) will take Museum
ing in April and leaving you on a 30-minute sled
in August (check the tour of local forest trails The old Speyside towns
website to see if they’re in the wake of a team of of Kingussie (kin-yew-
in residence). huskies, or a three-hour see) and Newtonmore sit
sled-dog safari. The sleds at the foot of the great
The Drive » The minor road have wheels, so snow’s heather-clad humps
not necessary. known as the Monadh-
leads back to the B970, where liath Mountains. New-
you turn left along the banks of 4 p269 tonmore is best known as
the River Spey to Coylumbridge; the home of the excellent
turn right here to reach The Drive » From Aviemore Highland Folk Museum
Aviemore (11 miles). (%01540-673551; www.high
drive south on the B99152, landfolk.museum; Kingussie
6 Aviemore which follows the valley of the Rd, Newtonmore; h10.30am-
River Spey; after 8.5 miles, soon 5.30pm Apr-Aug, 11am-4.30pm
The gateway to the after passing through the vilage Sep & Oct; p), an open-air
Cairngorms, Aviemore of Kincraig, you’ll see a sign collection of historical
may not be the prettiest on the right for the Highland buildings and artefacts
town in Scotland – the Wildlife Park. revealing many aspects
main attractions are in of Highland culture and
the surrounding area – 7 Highland lifestyle. Laid out like
but when bad weather Wildlife Park a farming township,
puts the hills off-limits, it has a community of
Aviemore fills up with The Highland Wildlife traditional thatch-roofed
hikers, cyclists and Park (%01540-651270; www. cottages, a sawmill, a
climbers (plus skiers and highlandwildlifepark.org; Kin- schoolhouse, a shepherd’s
snowboarders in winter) craig; adult/child £15.40/11.55;
h10am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm
Apr-Jun & Sep-Oct, to 4pm Nov-

265

©CRAIG EASTON / LONELY PLANET ©

MILOSZ MASLANKA / SHUTTERSTOCK © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
NEIL WILSON,
WRITER

Pretty much everything about this
trip screams classic Scotland –
romantic castles set amid forest-
fringed hills (including the British
royal family’s own holiday home);
picturesque Highland villages beside
salmon-filled rivers; hiking and
mountain biking amid wild mountain
scenery in the heart of Britain’s
biggest national park; iconic
Scottish wildllife experiences (think
ospreys, reindeer, wildcats); there’s
even a whisky distillery thrown in for
good measure!

Top: Wild red deer
Left: A road through Cairngorms National Park
Right: Loch Garten

GREAT BRITAIN 19 Royal Highlands & Cairngormsbothy (hut) and a rural
post office.
CHRIS PETTY/ 500PX ©
The Drive » Join the main

A9 Inverness to Perth road and
follow it south for 35 miles to
Blair Atholl, passing through
bleak mountain scenery and
climbing to a high point of 460m
at the Pass of Drumochter

TRIP HIGHLIGHT

9 Blair Atholl

The village of Blair Atholl
dates only from the early
19th century, built by the
Duke of Atholl, head of
the Murray clan, whose
seat – magnificent Blair
Castle (%01796-481207;
www.blair-castle.co.uk; adult/
child £10.70/6.40, family
£28.90; h9.30am-5.30pm
Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Sat &
Sun Nov-Mar; p c) – is
one of the most popular
tourist attractions in
Scotland.

Thirty rooms are open
to the public and they
present a wonderful
picture of upper-class
Highland life from the
16th century on. The
original tower was built
in 1269, but the castle
underwent significant
remodelling in the 18th
and 19th centuries.
Highlights include the
2nd-floor Drawing Room
with its ornate Georgian
plasterwork and Zoffany
portrait of the 4th duke’s
family, complete with a
pet lemur (yes, you read
that correctly) called
Tommy; and the Tapes-
try Room draped with

267

GREAT BRITAIN 19 Royal Highlands & Cairngorms 17th-century wall hang- DETOUR:
ings created for Charles I. GLEN LYON
The dining room is sump-
tuous – check out the Start: a Aberfeldy
9-pint wine glasses – and
the ballroom is a vast The ‘longest, loneliest and loveliest glen in Scotland’,
oak-panelled chamber according to Sir Walter Scott, stretches for 32
hung with hundreds of unforgettable miles of rickety stone bridges, native
stag antlers. woodland and heather-clad hills, becoming wilder
and more uninhabited as it snakes its way west. The
4 p269 ancients believed it to be a gateway to Faerieland,
The Drive » Follow the B8079 and even the most sceptical of visitors will be
entranced by the valley’s magic.
southeast out of Blair Atholl for
a few miles, past the historic There are no villages in the glen – the majestic
battle site of Killiecrankie, scenery is the main reason to be here – just a cluster
and turn right on the B8019 of houses at Bridge of Balgie, where the Bridge of
Strathtummel road. This Balgie Tearoom (%01887-866221; Bridge of Balgie;
gloriously scenic road leads snacks £3-5; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct; pW#), with a
along Loch Tummel (stop for suntrap of a terrace overlooking the river, serves as
photographs at Queen’s View) a hub for walkers, cyclists and motorists. The owner
to Tummel Bridge; turn left here is a fount of knowledge about the glen, and her
on the B846 over the hills to pistachio and almond cake is legendary.
Aberfeldy (29 miles).
There are several waymarked woodland walks
a Aberfeldy beginning from a car park a short distance beyond
Bridge of Balgie, and more challenging hill walks into
Aberfeldy is the gateway the surrounding mountains (see www.walkhighlands.
to Breadalbane (the co.uk/perthshire).
historic region surround-
ing Loch Tay), and a good From Abefeldy, the B846 leads to the pretty
base: adventure sports, village Fortingall, famous for its ancient yew tree,
angling, art and castles where a narrow minor road strikes west up the glen;
all feature on the menu another steep and spectacular route from Loch Tay
here. It’s a peaceful, crosses the hills to meet it at Bridge of Balgie. The
pretty place on the banks road continues west as far as the dam on Loch Lyon,
of the Tay, but if it’s passing a memorial to Robert Campbell (1808–94),
moody lochs and glens a Canadian explorer and fur trader, who was born in
that steal your heart, you the glen.
may want to push further
west into Glen Lyon. of town is Aberfeldy blending session. More
Distillery (www.dewars.com; expensive tours allow
You arrive in the town tour adult/child £9.50/4.50; you to try venerable
by crossing the River Tay Aberfeldy single malts
via the elegant Wade’s h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon- and others.
Bridge, built in 1733 as
part of the network of 4pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm 4 p269
military roads designed Mon-Sat Nov-Mar; p), home
to tame the Highlands. of the famous Dewar’s
At the eastern end whisky; tours include an
entertaining interactive

268

Eating & Sleeping

Braemar 1 Aviemore 6

4 St Margarets B&B £ 4 Cairngorm Hotel Hotel ££

(%01339-741697; [email protected]; 13 (%01479-810233; www.cairngorm.com;

School Rd; s/tw £34/56; W) Grab this place if Grampian Rd; s/d from £72/104; pW) Better

you can, but there’s only one room: a twin with a known as ‘the Cairn’, this long-established hotel

serious sunflower theme. The genuine warmth is set in the fine old granite building with the GREAT BRITAIN 19 Royal Highlands & Cairngorms

in the welcome is delightful. It’s tucked behind pointy turret opposite the train station. It’s a

the church on the south side of the A93 road. welcoming place with comfortable rooms and a

4 Craiglea B&B ££ determinedly Scottish atmosphere, with tartan

(%01339-741641; www.craigleabraemar.com; carpets and stags’ antlers. There’s live music

Hillside Dr; d/f from £76/105; pW) Craiglea is on weekends, so it can get a bit noisy – not for

a homely B&B set in a pretty stone cottage with early-to-bedders.

three en suite bedrooms. Vegetarian breakfasts

are available and the owners can rent you a bike Blair Atholl 9

and give advice on local walks. 4 Atholl Arms Hotel Hotel ££

Ballater 3 (%01796-481205; www.athollarms.co.uk; r from

£90; pW#) This hotel, near Blair Atholl train

4 Auld Kirk Hotel ££ station, is convenient for the castle, with rooms

(%01339-755762; www.theauldkirk.com; of a high standard; book ahead on weekends.

Braemar Rd; s/d from £80/115; pW#) Here’s The Bothy Bar here is the sibling pub of the

something a little out of the ordinary – a seven- Moulin Hotel in Pitlochry, snug with booth

bedroom hotel housed in a converted 19th- seating, an enormous fireplace and bucket-

century church. The interior blends original loads of character; there’s no better place to be

features with sleek modern decor – the pulpit when the rain is lashing down outside.

now serves as the reception desk, while the

breakfast room is bathed in light from leaded Aberfeldy a

Gothic windows. 4 Tigh’n Eilean Guest House B&B ££

Tomintoul 4 (%01887-820109; www.tighneilean.com;
Taybridge Dr; s/d from £48/78; pW#)
4 Argyle Guest House B&B ££ Everything about this property screams
comfort. It’s a gorgeous place overlooking the
(%01807-580766; www.argyletomintoul.co.uk; Tay, with individually designed rooms – one
has a Jacuzzi, while another is set on its own in
7 Main St; d/f from £65/115; W#) Comfortable a cheery yellow summer house in the garden,
giving you a bit of privacy. The garden itself is
accommodation for walkers, and the best fabulous, with hammocks for lazing in, and the
riverbank setting is delightful.
porridge in the Cairngorms!

5 Clockhouse Restaurant Scottish ££

(The Square; mains £10-14; hnoon-2pm & 6-8pm)
Serves light lunches and bistro dinners made with
fresh Highland lamb, venison and salmon.

269

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
1277

2277
3277
8277
9277

DUNCAN ANDISON / SHUTTERSTOCKV © #

20Great Glen

This lake-and-mountain themed trip leads you through some of
the Highlands’ scenic hotspots, and along the shores of world-
famous Loch Ness – here be monsters!

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS Km# Inverness 2–3 DAYS
147 MILES/235KM
81 miles
Urquhart Castle GREAT FOR...
Evocative ruined
castle overlooking JB
monster-haunted
Loch Ness

Glengarry ##6 BEST TIME TO GO
Viewpoint #
32 miles April to see snow
##4 Glen Nevis on the mountains,
Superb hiking in the October for autumn
lL##1 shadow of Britain's colours in the forests.
highest peak
I ESSENTIAL
Glen Coe PHOTO
Awe-inspiring mountain
scenery combines with Failing a shot of the
compelling history Loch Ness monster,
0 miles crossing the wire
bridge at Steall
Meadows.

K BEST FOR
FAMILIES

A Nessie-hunting cruise
from Fort Augustus.

LGolecnatNioenviCsaCprtoiosnsidngettahileswtoirgeobhriedrgee through Nevis Gorge 271

20 Great Glen TRIP HIGHLIGHT

The Great Glen is a geological fault running in 1 Glen Coe
an arrow-straight line across Scotland, filled by
a series of lochs including Loch Ness. This trip Scotland’s most famous
follows the A82 road along the glen (completed glen is also one of its
in 1933 – a date that coincides with the first grandest. The A82 road
sightings of the Loch Ness Monster!) and links leads over the Pass of
two areas of outstanding natural beauty – Glen Glencoe and into the
Coe to the south, and Glen Affric to the north. narrow upper glen.
The southern side is
dominated by three
massive, brooding
spurs, known as the
Three Sisters, while the
northern side is enclosed
by the continuous steep
wall of the knife-edged
Aonach Eagach ridge, a
classic mountaineering
challenge.

e# 0 20 km #Orrin North
0 10 miles #\ Kessock
Reservoir
Loch Beauly \#8 mK##]9 \#Culloden
Monar
#\ Lochcarron Farrar #\ Inverness horn

Struy ·/A82
Loch Ness
Find
# GFMulLlaocrhdoch
Cannich \# #\ Dores 16
\#7 Drumnadrochit
FG H# # /·16 \#Dornie
Loch p276 Urquhart 6 A9
Affric # Castle
Five Sisters Carrbridge\#
of Kintail Glen \# Foyers
c (1068m) Affric Aviemore\#
#\ Invermoriston \#
R A887
Shiel A87
Bridge
\# Monadhliath
Mountains
/· ¸0Glenelg
#\
\#Arnisdale Cluanie
Loch
Cluanie
·/ #R
Ladhar #\ Inn Glengarry Loch \#5 Fort Augustus Kincraig GF19
Bheinn Viewpoint Oich #\
(1019m) Kinloch
Hourn Loch # A87 Kingussie R
#\ R
Quoich Invergarry\#
Newtonmore#\

Loch /·A82
Arkaig Loch
Strathan #\ Lochy Glen Roy

Achnacarry \# ·/A86

#\# GlenFfoinrtnaCWnoirllpiaacmGh#\ai]#r3lochyR\#(B1e3BSn4#\pr4Niedmeagv)nei#\sRBorTiLydrogeciehg \# Dalwhinnie
#4 Glen
/·A830 /·LochA9 Grampian
Nevis Mountains
Loch Ericht
Shiel GF16

Strontian Corran#\ #\2 Kinlochleven Kinloch Killiecrankie #\
Rannoch
#\ Loch #\ GF19
Rannoch
·/ #A861 Ballachulish\# Aberfeldy\#
/· # lLLoch #\

Linnhe Glencoe A82 1 Glen Coe \#

Bridge
of Gaur

Glencoe Visitor Centre brings a steady stream the Fort has carved out GREAT BRITAIN 20 Great Glen
(NTS; %01855-811307; www. of hikers through the a reputation as ‘Outdoor
glencoe-nts.org.uk; adult/child village. It is also the Capital of the UK’ (www.
£6.50/5; h9.30am-5.30pm starting point for walks outdoorcapital.co.uk).
Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Thu-Sun up the glen of the River
Nov-Easter; p) provides Leven, through pleasant The small but fasci-
comprehensive informa- woods to the Grey Mare’s nating West Highland
tion on the geological, Tail waterfall, and harder Museum (%01397-702169;
environmental and cul- mountain hikes into the www.westhighlandmuseum.
tural history of Glencoe, Mamores. org.uk; Cameron Sq; h10am-
charts the development 5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, to 4pm
of mountaineering in the Scotland’s first Via Mar & Nov-Dec, closed Jan &
glen, and tells the story Ferrata (%01855-413200; Feb) is packed with all
of the Glencoe Massacre www.glencoeactivities.com; manner of Highland
in all its gory detail. per person/family £55/170) – memorabilia. Look out
a 500m climbing route for the secret portrait of
5 4 p277 equipped with steel lad- Bonnie Prince Charlie –
The Drive » From Glencoe ders, cables and bridges – after the Jacobite rebel-
snakes through the crags lions, all things Highland
village at the foot of the glen, around the Grey Mare’s were banned, including
head east on the B863 for 7 Tail, allowing non- pictures of the exiled
miles along the southern shore climbers to experience leader, and this tiny
of Loch Leven to Kinlochleven. the thrill of climbing painting looks like noth-
(you’ll need a head for ing more than a smear of
2 Kinlochleven heights, though!). paint until viewed in a
cylindrical mirror.
Kinlochleven is hemmed 5 p277
in by high mountains The Drive » Return west 5 4 p277
at the head of beauti-
ful Loch Leven, where along the north side of Loch The Drive » At the
the West Highland Way Leven, perhaps stopping for
lunch at the excellent Lochleven roundabout on the northern
LINK Seafood Cafe, then head north edge of Fort William, take the
YOUR on the A82 to Fort William (22 minor road that runs into Glen
TRIP miles). Nevis; it leads to a car park at
the far end of the glen, 6.5 miles
j Royal Highlands 3 Fort William away.
& Cairngorms
Basking on the shores TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Get your fill of Scottish of Loch Linnhe amid
splendour by beginning magnificent mountain 4 Glen Nevis
with this tour of castles scenery, Fort William has
and mountains before one of the most enviable Scenic Glen Nevis – used
heading west to Glen Coe. settings in the whole of as a filming location
Scotland. If it wasn’t for for Braveheart and the
g Britain’s Wild the busy dual carriage- Harry Potter movies –
Side way crammed between wraps around the base
the less-than-attractive of Ben Nevis, Britain’s
Explore more of Britain’s town centre and the loch, highest mountain.
natural beauty spots by and one of the highest The Glen Nevis Visitor
taking this trip in reverse rainfall records in the Centre (%01397-705922;
from Inverness. country, it would be www.bennevisweather.co.uk;
almost idyllic. Even so, h8.30am-6pm Jul & Aug,
9am-5pm Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct,
9am-3pm Nov-Mar; p) is

273

BOUDEWIJN SLUIJK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©situated 1.5 miles up13m by a ‘ladder’ of five
the glen, and provides consecutive locks. It’s
GREAT BRITAIN 20 Great Gleninformation on hiking, fun to watch, and the
weather forecasts, and neatly landscaped canal
specific advice on climb- banks are a great place the film) and displays of
ing Ben Nevis. to soak up the sun. The medieval items discov-
Caledonian Canal Centre ered in the castle. The
From the car park at (%01320-366493; Ardchattan five-storey tower house at
the end of the road, there House, Canalside; h10am- the northern point is the
is an excellent 1.5-mile 4pm), beside the lowest most impressive remain-
walk through the spectac- lock, has information on ing fragment and offers
ular Nevis Gorge to Steall the history of the canal. wonderful views across
Meadows, a verdant valley the water.
dominated by a 100m- Cruise Loch Ness
high bridal-veil waterfall. (%01320-366277; www. The Drive » A short hop of 2
You can reach the foot of cruiselochness.com; adult/
the falls by crossing the child £14/8; hhourly 10am- miles leads to Drumnadrochit.
river on a wobbly, three- 4pm Apr-Oct, 1 & 2pm only Nov-
cable wire bridge – one Mar), at the jetty beside
cable for your feet and one the canal bridge, oper-
for each hand – a real test ates one-hour cruises on
of balance! Loch Ness accompanied
by the latest high-tech
The Drive » Return down sonar equipment so you
can keep an underwater
Glen Nevis and head north on eye open for the Loch
the A82. At Invergarry, turn left Ness monster.
onto the A87 which climbs high
above Loch Garry; stop at the The Drive » It’s a
famous Glengarry Viewpoint
(layby on left). By a quirk of straightforward but scenic
perspective, the lochs to the 17-mile drive along the shores of
west appear to form the map Loch Ness to Urquhart Castle.
outline of Scotland. Return to
the A87 and continue to Fort TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Augustus (44 miles).
6 Urquhart Castle
5 Fort Augustus
Commanding a superb
Fort Augustus, at the location with outstand-
junction of four old mili- ing views over Loch
tary roads, was originally Ness, Urquhart Castle
a government garrison (HS; %01456-450551; adult/
and the headquarters of child £8.50/5.10; h9.30am-
General George Wade’s 6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct, to
road-building operations 4.30pm Nov-Mar; p) is a
in the early 18th century. popular Nessie-hunting
Today it’s a neat and hot spot. A huge visitor
picturesque little place centre (most of which is
bisected by the Caledo- beneath ground level)
nian Canal. includes a video theatre
(with a dramatic ‘reveal’
Boats using the canal of the castle at the end of
are raised and lowered

274

Loch Ness Fort Augustus Abbey

7 Drumnadrochit form of a cardboard cut- for yourself. Exhibits
out at Drumnadrochit’s include the original
Deep, dark and narrow, monster exhibitions. equipment – sonar
Loch Ness stretches for survey vessels, miniature
23 miles between Inver- The Loch Ness Centre submarines, cameras
ness and Fort Augustus. (%01456-450573; www. and sediment coring
Its bitterly cold waters tools – used in various
have been extensively ex- lochness.com; adult/child monster hunts, as well
plored in search of Nes- as original photographs
sie, the elusive Loch Ness £7.95/4.95; h9.30am-6pm Jul and film footage of
monster, but most visi- sightings. You’ll find out
tors see her only in the & Aug, to 5pm Easter-Jun, Sep & about hoaxes and optical

Oct, 10am-3.30pm Nov-Easter;
p c) adopts a scientific
approach that allows you
to weigh the evidence

275

GREAT BRITAIN 20 Great Glen DETOUR: magnificent centuries-old
GLEN AFFRIC sycamore tree.

Start: 7 Drumnadrochit (p275) Corner on the Square
(p277) makes a good
Glen Affric (www.glenaffric.org), one of the place to break your
most beautiful glens in Scotland, extends deep journey.
into the hills beyond Cannich, halfway between
Drumnadrochit and Beauly. The upper reaches of 5 p277
the glen, now designated as Glen Affric Nature The Drive » Drive east on the
Reserve, is a scenic wonderland of shimmering
lochs, rugged mountains and native Scots pine A862 for 12 miles to Inverness.
forest, home to pine martens, wildcats, otters, red
squirrels and golden eagles. 9 Inverness

A narrow, dead-end road leads southwest from Inverness has a great loca-
Cannich; about 4 miles along is Dog Falls, a scenic tion astride the River Ness
spot where the River Affric squeezes through a at the northern end of the
narrow, rocky gorge. A circular walking trail (red Great Glen. In summer
waymarks) leads from Dog Falls car park to a it overflows with visitors
footbridge below the falls and back on the far side of intent on monster hunting
the river (2 miles, allow one hour). at nearby Loch Ness, but
it’s worth a visit in its own
The road continues beyond Dog Falls to a parking right for a stroll along the
area and picnic site at the eastern end of Loch picturesque River Ness, a
Affric, where there are several short walks along the cruise on Loch Ness, and
river and the loch shore. The circuit of Loch Affric a meal in one of the city’s
(10 miles, allow five hours walking, two hours by excellent restaurants.
mountain bike) follows good paths right around the
loch and takes you deep into the heart of some very The main attraction
wild scenery. in Inverness is a leisurely
stroll along the river to
illusions, as well as 8 Beauly the Ness Islands. Planted
learning a lot about the with mature Scots pine,
ecology of Loch Ness – is Mary, Queen of Scots is beech and sycamore, and
there enough food in said to have given this linked to the river banks
the loch to support even village its name in 1564 and each other by elegant
one ‘monster’, let alone a when she visited, exclaim- Victorian footbridges, the
breeding population? ing in French: ‘Quel beau islands make an appealing
lieu!’ (What a beautiful spot. They’re a 20-minute
The Drive » Head west on the place!). Founded in 1230, walk south of the castle –
the red-sandstone Beauty head upstream on either
A831 which leads to the village Priory is now an impres- side of the river (the start
of Cannich – jumping-off point sive ruin, haunted by the of the Great Glen Way),
for the Glen Affric detour – cries of rooks nesting in a and return on the oppo-
before turning north along lovely site bank.
Strathglass to reach Beauly
(30 miles). 4 p277

276

Eating & Sleeping

Glen Coe 1 century villa set in its own landscaped grounds,
the Grange is crammed with antiques and fitted
4 Clachaig Inn Hotel ££ with log fires, chaise lounges and Victorian
roll-top baths. The Turret Room, with its window
(%01855-811252; www.clachaig.com; s/d seat in the turret overlooking Loch Linnhe, is
our favourite. It’s 500m southwest of the town
£53/106; pW) The Clachaig, 2 miles east centre. No children.

of Glencoe village, has long been a favourite

haunt of hill walkers and climbers. As well as 5 Lime Tree Scottish ££ GREAT BRITAIN 20 Great Glen

comfortable en suite accommodation, there’s a (%01397-701806; www.limetreefortwilliam.

smart, modern lounge bar with snug booths and co.uk; Achintore Rd; mains £16-20; h6.30-

high refectory tables, mountaineering photos 9.30pm; pW) Fort William is not over-

and bric-a-brac, and climbing magazines to leaf endowed with great places to eat, but the

through. restaurant at this small hotel and art gallery

5 Glencoe Café Cafe £ has put the UK’s Outdoor Capital on the

(%01855-811168; www.glencoecafe.co.uk; gastronomic map. The chef turns out delicious

Glencoe village; mains £4-8; h10am-4pm dishes built around fresh Scottish produce,

daily, to 5pm May-Sep, closed Nov; pW) ranging from Loch Fyne oysters to Loch Awe

This friendly cafe is the social hub of Glencoe trout and Ardnamurchan venison.

village, serving breakfast fry-ups till 11.30am

(including vegetarian versions), light lunches Beauly 8

based around local produce (think Cullen skink,

smoked salmon quiche, venison burgers), and 5 Corner on the Square Cafe £

the best cappuccino in the glen. (%01463-783000; www.corneronthesquare.

co.uk; 1 High St; mains £7-13; h8.30am-5.30pm

Kinlochleven 2 Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat, 9.30am-5pm Sun)

5 Lochleven Seafood Cafe Seafood ££ Beauly’s best lunch spot is this superb little

(%01855-821048; www.lochlevenseafoodcafe. delicatessen and cafe that serves breakfast
co.uk; mains £11-23, whole lobster £40; hmeals
noon-3pm & 6-9pm, coffee & cake 10am-noon & (till 11.30am), daily lunch specials (11.30am to
3-5pm mid-Mar–Oct; p c) This outstanding
place serves superb shellfish freshly plucked 4.30pm) and excellent coffee.
from live tanks – oysters on the half shell, razor
clams, scallops, lobster and crab – plus a daily Inverness 9
fish special and some non-seafood dishes. For
warm days, there’s an outdoor terrace with a 4 Heathmount Boutique Hotel ££
view across the loch to the Pap of Glencoe, a
distinctive conical mountain. Hotel

(%01463-235877; www.heathmounthotel.

com; Kingsmills Rd; s/d from £75/105; pW)

Small and friendly, the Heathmount combines

a popular local bar and restaurant with eight

Fort William 3 designer hotel rooms, each one different,

ranging from a boldly coloured family room in

4 Grange B&B £££ purple and gold to a slinky black velvet four-

poster double. Five minutes’ walk east of the

(%01397-705516; www.grangefortwilliam.com; city centre.

Grange Rd; d £145; pW) An exceptional 19th-

277

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
a
1289

2289
4289
7289
8289
9289
a289

BILLY STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK © West Wales:
Swansea to

21St Davids

This route links two distinctly Welsh cities – one large and one
beyond tiny – by way of Wales’ two most famously beautiful
stretches of coast.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 4 DAYS
125 MILES /
125 miles 201KM
St Davids
Historic micro-city GREAT FOR…
set in an ancient
landscape BG

mK#10## # Carmarthen BEST TIME TO GO

St Davids # Haverfordwest June, July and
August offer the
# ###7 Tenby Llanelli# lL best beach weather;
although there’s no
Pembroke Swansea assurances of sun.

86 miles # I ESSENTIAL
Tenby PHOTO
Postcard-perfect #Rhossili 4#
beach town with a The view of Three
medieval core Rhossili Cliffs Bay from
Miles of golden sand Pennard Castle.
backed by steep-
sloped downs K BEST FOR
FAMILIES
20 miles
Splashing about on
PLoecmabtiroonkeCsahpitrieonCodaestatilEsletoguggoShtearcek Rocks Ù# the beach at Tenby.

279

21 West Wales: Swansea to
St Davids

The broad sandy arc of Swansea Bay is only a teaser for what is to come.
Once you escape the city sprawl, the wild beauty of the Welsh coast
immediately begins to assert itself. Waves crash against sheer cliffs painted
from a rapidly changing palate of grey, purple and inky black. In between
are some of Britain’s very best beaches: glorious sandy stretches and tiny
remote coves alike.

\#

44Cardigan #]
Moylgrove#\

¸0A487
44 ¸0Goodwick#\ #\
Dinas Nevern Henllan#\ \#
#\Cross #\ Cenarth
A478 Llandysul
#\ New#\port
0¸ 4¸04Porthgain
Trefin #\ A487 Fishguard #\ Bwlch #\ Crymach
B4313 Gwynt
#\ \#
Abereiddy #\ Pembrokeshire
4Porthmelgan PEAM40BROKESHIRLRleEysse-ryv-ofrirbnNCaPtoaiaorskntal
Km # # ¸0St Clarbeston
Davids #\10 \#9 Solva
St Non's
Ramsey

4440¸ 0¸ #Island
Bay Newgale #\ \# Road #\ Carmarthen
A487 6]#
Canaston Whitland
St Brides Bridge \#
Bay A40 \#
Haverfordwest \# St Clears
440¸ 0¸ ¸0 H#SkomerBroad Haven #\ \#
Island
Martin's B4327 A4076 PCeomasbtrNokaetisohnirael Narberth A477
4444H# ¸0# 0¸ 440¸# 44444444#44ATLAN
44444 444OCEAHaven Marloes \#Johnston Park p282 #\ Laugharne
Kidwelly #\5
TIC \#DaS\#ltHeAe#\naFdnrAe'ssWnLhgeiwHMnlseHat#\neiatlaeefdyvorerPpBdn2eoRS8m\#sto6ahcbcDkerksrooskBctS4oekt3n#\1G#\D9\#Noa#\v#\8eS\#u\#ayBgtnlaPlra'eBsocendakaAddmr4pdaa7Bo7CbuHfalueraya#\norv#\dekelwMnee anor\#bA4i\#e77\#8rSTa\#ueCInAsanldlmabdenyerrdoyCstfahoromBtaa#\yrPtehenndine Bur#\ry
N Port

Llanmadoc \#
Llangennith #\

44Head 44#Rhossili #4\
\#
e# 0 20 km CBhrainstnoell
0 10 miles 44

swanseaindoormarket.co.uk; swan.ac.uk; Mumbles Rd,
Sketty; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat)
1 Swansea Oxford St; h8am-5.30pm at Swansea University. GREAT BRITAIN21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davids
Mon-Sat), then dive into
Although it’s not the the whizz-bang National 4 p289
most immediately at-
tractive place, Wales’ Waterfront Museum The Drive » Broad
second biggest city has (%0300 111 2333; www.muse
its own workaday charm Oystermouth Rd traces the edge
and an enviable setting umwales.ac.uk; South Dock Ma- of Swansea Bay, changing its
on 5-mile-long, sandy, name to Mumbles Rd halfway
Swansea Bay. An active rina, Oystermouth Rd; h10am- along. It’s only 4 miles from
bar scene is enthusiasti- 5pm) and the charmingly central Swansea to the heart of
cally supported by a large old-fashioned Swansea the Mumbles strip.
student population, while Museum (%01792-653763;
a new brace of afford- www.swanseamuseum.co.uk; 2 The Mumbles
able ethnic eateries has
improved the city’s once Victoria Rd; h10am-5pm Swansea’s swanky seaside
drab dining options no Tue-Sun). Fans of Welsh suburb sprawls along the
end. poet Dylan Thomas western curve of Swansea
can tour his birthplace Bay and terminates in
Fuel up on Welsh cakes (%01792-472555; www. the pair of rounded hills
hot off the griddle at which may have gifted
Swansea Market (www. dylanthomasbirthplace.com; the area its unusual name
(from the French Les
5 Cwmdonkin Dr, Uplands; Mamelles – ‘the breasts’).
Oystermouth Castle
adult/child £8/6; htours (%01792-635478; www.swan-
11am, 1pm & 3pm), explore sea.gov.uk/oystermouthcastle;
his legacy at the Dylan Castle Ave; adult/child £3/1.50;
h11am-5pm Easter-Sep) is
Thomas Centre (%01792- well worth a visit – a
Norman fortress standing
463980; www.dylanthomas. guard over the fashion-
able Newton Rd bar and
#\ Lampeter com; Somerset Pl; h10am- shopping strip.
4.30pm), catch a show
at the Dylan Thomas Pick up an ice cream
\# Llanybydder #\Theatre (%01792-473238; at Joe’s (%01792-368212;
www.joes-icecream.com; 526
www.dylanthomastheatre.org.

uk; Gloucester Pl), where
he once trod the boards,
and visit some of the
many pubs he famously
Llangadog \# frequented. If you’ve got

\# Llandeilo \# an interest in antiquities,
seek out the fascinating
Egypt Centre (www.egypt.

Ammanford \# LINK
YOUR
#\ TRIP

FG38 miles to 15 h The Historic South f The Best of Britain
Pontarddulais Sample some The Welsh coast
heritage and culture before tour is an obvious side-trip
GF#\ 70 miles to 17 hitting the wild coast: from from our grand tour of the
#\ Ll Oxford, it’s two and a half best sights of Britain – it’s
‚ hours west on the M4 to an hour’s drive between
]# Swansea. Swansea and Cardiff.

Llanelli

#\ #Swansea 281
^#1
Reynoldston
##]2 Mumbles
440¸\#
#A4118 \#3 lL
Parkmill
#\
Port

44Eynon

GREAT BRITAIN 21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davids Mumbles Rd; h10.30am- at the village of Murton, a sharp zoo and a puppet theatre.
5.30pm), a Swansea right-hand turn leads to the Nearby Parc-le-Breos
institution since it was B4436 and on to the A4118, the (Parkmill) contains the
founded by an Italian main Gower road. remains of a 5500-year-
immigrant in 1922, and old burial chamber.
take a stroll along the 3 Parkmill
waterside promenade However, the real rea-
to the Victorian pier The spectacular coastal son to stop in Parkmill is
(%01792-365225; www. landscape of the Gower to take a stroll to Three
mumbles-pier.co.uk; Mumbles Peninsula was recognised Cliffs Bay. Recognised
Rd). There’s a pretty little by officialdom when it as one of Britain’s most
sandy beach tucked just was declared the UK’s beautiful beaches, Three
beneath it. If you’re peck- first ‘Area of Outstanding Cliffs has a memorable
ish there are some good Natural Beauty’ in 1956. setting, with a ruined
cafes and restaurants 13th-century castle above
spread along the water- In the village of Park- and a triple-pointed
front, and plenty of pubs mill, historic mill build- rock formation fram-
and bars too. ings have been converted ing a natural arch at its
into the Gower Heritage eastern end.
4 p289 Centre (%01792-371206;
www.gowerheritagecentre. The Drive » From Parkmill,
The Drive » From the co.uk; Parkmill; adult/child
£6.80/5.80; h10am-5.30pm; continue west on the A4118,
Mumbles it’s 6 miles to Parkmill c). Despite its worthy- following the signs to Rhossili.
on the Gower Peninsula. Head sounding name, it’s a Eventually the road turns left
uphill on Newton Rd, following great place to take kids, towards the village of Scurlage
the Gower signs. Eventually the incorporating a petting and the Rhossili turn-off. All up
houses give way to fields and, it’s a distance of 10 miles along
good roads, but it’s quite likely

DETOUR:
LAUGHARNE

Start: 6 Carmarthen (p285)

While shooting down the highway between Carmarthen and Tenby, it’s worth
considering taking a left at St Clears to visit the small town of Laugharne
(pronounced ‘larn’) on the Taf estuary. Perched picturesquely above the reed-lined
shore, Laugharne Castle (Cadw; www.cadw.gov.wales; Wogan St; adult/child £3.80/2.85;
h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) is a hefty 13th-century fortress which was converted into a
mansion in the 16th century.

Swansea may have been Dylan Thomas’ birthplace but Laugharne is where
he chose to live out his final years, providing the inspiration for his classic play
for voices Under Milk Wood. Many fans make the pilgrimage here to visit the
boathouse (%01994-427420; www.dylanthomasboathouse.com; Dylan’s Walk; adult/child
£4.20/2; h10am-5pm May-Oct, 10.30am-3pm Nov-Apr) where he lived, the shed where he
wrote and his final resting place in the graveyard of St Martin’s Church. Also worth a
look is cosy Brown’s Hotel (%01994-427688; www.browns-hotel.co.uk; King St; pizza £8-10;
h11am-11pm), one of his favourite watering holes.

Laugharne is situated 4 miles off the highway and you’re best to allocate at least
a couple of hours to explore it properly. Although you can continue southwest from
here on narrow roads, you’re better off backtracking to the A477 to get to Tenby.

282

JOE DANIEL PRICE / GETTY IMAGES ©

St Davids St Davids Cathedral

you’ll be stuck behind a slow- Head, a dragon-shaped lords were given author-
moving campervan or tractor at promontory which turns ity and a large degree of
some point along the way. into an island at high autonomy to subjugate
tide and is home to seals the Welsh in the south
TRIP HIGHLIGHT and a variety of sea birds. and along the English
It’s safe to explore it on border. The cute little
4 Rhossili foot for 2½ hours either Carmarthenshire town of
side of low tide, but keep Kidwelly has a particular-
It can be dangerous for an eye on the time and ly well-preserved example.
swimmers but the three mind you don’t get cut off
miles of surf-battered by the incoming tide. Originally erected in
golden sands of Rhossili 1106, only 40 years after
Bay make it the Gower 5 p289 the Norman invasion of
Peninsula’s most dramatic The Drive » It’s only 31 miles England, Kidwelly Castle
and spectacular beach. (Cadw; www.cadw.gov.wales;
Surfers tend to congregate from Rhossili to Kidwelly, but Castle Rd, Kidwelly; adult/child
at the village of Llangen- allow an hour as the narrow £4/3; h9.30am-5pm Mar-Oct,
nith near the north end lanes leading out from the 10am-4pm Nov-Feb) got its
of the beach, but Rhossili Gower Peninsula will slow you current configuration of
village to the south makes down. The first part of the imposing stone walls in
for a better casual stop. journey zigzags along tiny lanes the 13th century. Wander
There’s a National Trust to the peninsula’s northern around and explore its
visitor centre (%01792- edge. Before and after motoring remaining towers and
390707; www.nationaltrust.org. through the scraggly outskirts battlements, or just stop
uk/gower; Coastguard Cottages, of Llanelli, it’s a pleasantly rural by to take a photo of the
Rhossili; h10.30am-4pm) drive. grey walls looming above
here, and the excellent the peaceful river far
Bay Bistro & Coffee House 5 Kidwelly below.
(p289), if you’re after a
meal or a snack. Castles are a dime a The Drive » From Kidwelly,
dozen in this part of
This end of the beach Wales – a legacy of a time take the A484 north for 10
is abutted by Worms when Norman ‘Marcher’ miles through the green fields
of Carmarthenshire. Eventually

283

BILLY STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

JOE DANIEL PRICE / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
PETER
DRAGICEVICH,
WRITER

As well as traversing two of Wales’
most acclaimed beauty spots
– the Gower Peninsula and the
Pembrokeshire Coast – this journey
offers the perfect introduction to
contemporary Welsh life. You’ll get
a taste of a large post-industrial
city, visit tiny fishing villages, travel
through fertile farmland and wash
up in St Davids – a place as close to
the Welsh soul as any could claim
to be.

Top: Rhossili Bay, Gower Peninsula
Left: Colourful buildings in Solva
Right: Picturesque Tenby Harbour

GREAT BRITAIN 21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davidsyou’ll see Carmarthen in the
distance, straddling a hill above
BILLY STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK © the River Tywi.

6 Carmarthen

Although it has ancient
provenance, there’s
not an awful lot to see
in Carmarthenshire’s
county town. Still, it’s
worth stopping to stretch
your legs with a stroll
through its historic
centre. Call into Castle
House (Nott Sq; h9.30am-
4.30pm Mon-Sat) to exam-
ine the few sections that
remain of a once mighty
fortress. Carmarthen
Market (www.carmarthen
shiremarkets.co.uk; Market
Way; h9.30am-4.30pm
Mon-Sat) has existed since
Roman times. It’s a good
place to sample the local
specialty, Carmarthen
ham – an air-dried meat
that’s very similar to pro-
sciutto. Carmarthenshire
is a largely agricultural
county, and the market
remains an important
hub for local producers.

The Drive » Twenty-six miles

of verdant farmland separate
Carmarthen from Tenby. Take
the A40 to St Clears, where you
can either detour to Laugharne
or branch off on the A477 and
enter Pembrokeshire. Past
Kilgetty, turn left onto the A478,
which leads directly to Tenby.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT

7 Tenby

Sandy, family-friendly
beaches spread out in
either direction from
the pretty pastel-striped

285

GREAT BRITAIN 21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davids resort town occupying Tue-Sat Jan-Mar) and the and a community of
the headland. Tenby’s National Trust’s restored Cistercian monks.
historic core is still
partly enclosed by Nor- Tudor Merchant’s House 4 p289
man walls, although all (NT; %01834-842279; www. The Drive » From Tenby it’s
that’s left of its castle is nationaltrust.org.uk; Quay
a meagre collection of Hill; adult/child £5/2.50; a short and sweet 10-mile hop
ruins gazing over the sea. h11am-5pm Wed-Mon Easter- to Pembroke. From the town
Jul, Sep & Oct, daily Aug, Sat centre, head west on Greenhill
The beach is the big & Sun Nov-Easter). If you’ve Rd, head under the railway
attraction here, but if got the time, take a boat bridge and turn right at the
the weather’s not co- trip out to Caldey Island roundabout. Follow Hayward
operating, pop into Ten- (%01834-844453; www. Lane (the B4318) through a
caldey-island.co.uk; adult/child patchwork of fields until you
by Museum & Art Gallery £12/6; hMon-Sat May-Sep, reach the Sageston roundabout.
(%01834-842809; www. Mon-Thu Apr & Oct), home to Turn left onto the A477 and then
tenbymuseum.org.uk; Castle seals, seabirds, beaches veer left on the A4075.
Hill; adult/child £4.95/free;
h10am-5pm daily Apr-Dec,

DETOUR:
WEST OF PEMBROKE

Start: 8 Pembroke

The remote peninsula that forms the bottom lip of the long, deep-sea harbour of
Milford Haven has some of the Pembrokeshire Coast’s most dramatic geological
features and blissful little beaches. The National Trust–managed Stackpole Estate
(NT; %01646-661359; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; hdawn-dusk) covers 8 miles of coastline
south and west of Pembroke. It includes the golden sands of Barafundle Bay and
Broad Haven South, and a network of walking tracks around the Bosherston Lily
Ponds.

Continue past Bosherston to the coast and a short steep path leads to the
photogenic shell of St Govan’s Chapel, wedged into a slot in the cliffs just above the
pounding waves. There’s a natural rock arch here, one of many along this stretch of
coast. Sadly, the coast to the west of here is part of a military firing range. When the
red flags are flying there’s no public access to some of the Pembrokeshire Coast’s
most arresting natural sights – the Elegug Stack Rocks and the gigantic arch
known as the Green Bridge of Wales.

After sidestepping the firing range, the road continues on to Freshwater West –
a moody, wave-battered stretch of coast that has provided a brooding backdrop
for movies such as Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows and Ridley Scott’s
Robin Hood. It’s widely held to be Wales’ best surf beach, but also one of the most
dangerous for swimmers.

From Pembroke it’s 4 miles to the Stackpole Estate and 8 miles to Freshwater
West. If it’s beach weather, you could easily make a day of it. Take the B4319 heading
south from Pembroke; Stackpole, Bosherston and the Ellegug Stack Rocks are
reached from narrow country lanes branching off it. The B4319 continues past
Freshwater West and terminates at the B4320, where you can turn right to head
back to Pembroke.

286

LEIGHTON COLLINS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Parkmill Pennard Castle

8 Pembroke A strip of mainly Geor- village straight out of
gian and Victorian build- central casting. Pastel-
The little town of ings leads down from the hued cottages line the
Pembroke is completely castle, including among gurgling stream running
dominated by hulk- them some good pubs through its lower reach-
ing Pembroke Castle and the excellent Food at es, while Georgian town
(%01646-684585; www. Williams (%01646-689990; houses cling to the cliffs
pembroke-castle.co.uk; www.foodatwilliams.co.uk; above. When the tide’s
Main St; adult/child £6/5; 18 Main St; mains £5-8.50; out, the water disappears
h10am-5pm; c), which h9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, completely from the
looms over the end of its 10am-3pm Sun; W) cafe. harbour, leaving the sail-
main street. The fortress ing fleet striking angular
is best viewed from the 4 p289 poses on the sand.
Mill Pond, a pretty lake
which forms a moat on The Drive » The 24-mile There’s not much to
three sides of the craggy do here except to stroll
headland from which the journey to Solva heads through about perusing the an-
castle rises. Pembroke the port town of Pembroke Dock, tique shops and galleries,
played a leading role in crosses the Daugleddau estuary or to settle in some-
British history as the and then heads up through where cosy for a meal.
birthplace of the first Pembrokeshire’s nondescript Our favourite for the
Tudor king, Henry VII. county town of Haverfordwest. latter is the Cambrian
Compared to many of Exit Haverfordwest on the A487, Inn (%01437-721210; www.
its contemporaries, the which traverses farmland before thecambrianinn.co.uk; 6 Main
castle is in extremely reaching the coast at Newgale,
good nick, with lots of a surf beach backed by a high St; mains £11-21, s/d £70/95;
well-preserved towers, bank of pebbles. From here the hnoon-3pm & 6-9pm; v),
dungeons and wall-walks road shadows the coast. an upmarket pub known
to explore. Needless to for its gourmet burgers
say, kids love it. 9 Solva and meat pies.

Clustered around a hook- If you need to burn
shaped harbour, Solva is off some calories after-
the classic Welsh fishing wards, a 1-mile walk

287

GREAT BRITAIN 21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davids will take you upstream LOCAL KNOWLEDGE:
to the Solva Woollen ST DAVID’S DAY
Mill (%01437-721112; www.
solvawoollenmill.co.uk; Middle St David’s Day is to the Welsh what St Patrick’s Day
Mill; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon- is to the Irish – a day to celebrate one’s essential
Fri Oct-Jun, 9.30am-5.30pm Welshiness, albeit somewhat more soberly than
Mon-Sat, 2-5.30pm Sun Jul- their Celtic brethren from across the way. If you’re
Sep), which is the oldest in Wales on 1 March, there’s no better place to be
working mill of its kind than the saint’s own city, St Davids. All around the
in Pembrokeshire. cathedral a host of golden daffodils explodes into
flower seemingly right on cue; people pin leek,
4 p289 daffodil or red dragon badges to their lapels; the
streets are strung with flags bearing the black and
The Drive » You really can’t gold St David’s cross; and cawl (a traditional soupy
stew) is consumed in industrial qualities. Of course,
go wrong on the 3-mile drive to the focus of more solemn events is the cathedral,
St Davids. Just continue west. where the saint’s remains lie in a recently restored
shrine, a replica of one which was destroyed during
TRIP HIGHLIGHT the Reformation.

a St Davids there’s a treasury and surf you’re after, head to
historic library hidden broad, beautiful White-
A city only by dint of its within. Right next to the sands Bay (Porth Mawr).
prestigious cathedral, cathedral are the ruins
pretty St Davids feels of a spectacular medieval Also not to be missed
more like a small town bishop’s palace (Cadw; is Oriel y Parc (Landscape
or an oversized village. www.cadw.gov.wales; adult/ Gallery; %01437-720392;
Yet this little settlement www.orielyparc.co.uk; cnr High
looms large in the Welsh child £3.50/2.65; h9.30am- St & Caerfai Rd; h10am-
consciousness as the 4pm), an architecturally
hometown of its patron 5pm Mar-Oct, 10am-4pm interesting visitor centre
saint. Nov-Feb). and art gallery showcas-
ing landscape paintings
Fascinating St St David was born at from the collection of the
Davids Cathedral (www. St Non’s Bay, a ruggedly National Museum Wales.
stdavidscathedral.org.uk; beautiful section of coast
suggested donation £3, tours with a holy well and a 4 p289
£4; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, cute little chapel, a short
12.45-5.30pm Sun) stands on walk from the centre of
the site of the saint’s own town. If it’s a swim or
6th-century religious set-
tlement. Wonderful stone
and wooden carvings
decorate the interior, and

288

Eating & Sleeping

Swansea 1 the town walls. Three of the four rooms have en
suites, while the other has a private bathroom
4 Christmas Pie B&B accessed from the corridor.

B&B ££

(%01792-480266; www.christmaspie.co.uk; Pembroke 8

2 Mirador Cres, Uplands; s/d £53/82; pW)

The name suggests something warm and 4 Woodbine B&B ££

comforting, and this suburban villa does not (%01646-686338; www. GREAT BRITAIN 21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davids

disappoint. The three en-suite bedrooms are all pembrokebedandbreakfast.co.uk; 84 Main St; s/d

individually decorated. Plus there’s fresh fruit from £50/65; W) This well-kept, forest-green

and an out-of-the-ordinary, vegetarian-friendly Georgian townhouse presents a smart face to

breakfast selection. Pembroke’s main drag. The three pretty guest

rooms are tastefully furnished, with original

The Mumbles 2 fireplaces and contemporary wallpaper. Two

4 Patricks have en suites, while the family room has its

bathroom out on the corridor.

with Rooms Boutique Hotel £££

(%01792-360199; www.patrickswithrooms. Solva 9

com; 638 Mumbles Rd; r £120-175; W) Patricks

has 16 individually styled bedrooms in bold 4 Haroldston House B&B ££

contemporary colours, with art on the walls, (%01437-721404; www.haroldstonhouse.co.uk;

fluffy robes and, in some of the rooms, roll-top 29 High St; r £80-90; pW) Set in a lovely old

baths and sea views. Some are set back in Georgian merchant’s house, this wonderful

a separate annexe. Downstairs there’s an B&B offers chic modern style. The simple but

upmarket restaurant and bar. tastefully decorated rooms feature art by

owner Ian McDonald as well as other Welsh or

Rhossili 4 Wales-based artists. There’s a free electric-car

5 Bay Bistro & Coffee House Bistro £ charging point, discounts for guests arriving by

(%01792-390519; www.thebaybistro.co.uk; public transport, and tasty, inventive breakfast
mains £6-12; h10am-5.30pm; v) A buzzy
beach cafe with a sunny terrace, good surfy options.
vibrations and the kind of drop-your-panini
views that would make anything taste good – St Davids a CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
although the roster of burgers, sandwiches,
cakes and coffee stands up well regardless. On 4 Tŵr y Felin Hotel £££
summer evenings it opens for alfresco meals.
(%01437-725555; www.twryfelinhotel.com;

Caerfai Rd; r/ste from £160/240) Incorporating

an odd circular tower that was once a windmill,

this chic boutique hotel is St Davids’ most

Tenby 7 upmarket option. The entire building is lathered

with contemporary art, with dozens of pieces

4 Southside Hotel ££ in the lounge-bar and restaurant alone. The

(%01834-844355; www.southsidetenby. 21 bedrooms are all luxurious, but the most

co.uk; Picton Rd; s/d £45/80; W) Rooms are spectacular is the three-level circular suite in

spacious, comfortable and not at all chintzy the tower itself.

at this friendly little private hotel just outside

289

NEED TO ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
KNOW
Climate
CURRENCY
Warm to hot summers,
Pound sterling (£) mild winters

LANGUAGE Fort William # # Aberdeen
GO May or Sep GO May–Sep
English; also Scottish Gaelic
and Welsh # Edinburgh
GO Any time
VISAS
GBrOecMoany–Sep # Norwich
Generally not needed for GO May–Sep
stays of up to six months. #
Not a member of the # London
Schengen Zone. # Exeter GO Any time
GO Apr–Oct
FUEL
When to Go
Urban petrol (gas) stations High Season (Jun–Aug)
are plentiful; service stations »»Weather at its best.
are regularly spaced on »»Accommodation rates peak.
motorways. Fill up before »»Busy roads, especially in seaside areas, national parks and
heading into rural areas,
where they’re scarcer. big-draw cities.

Expect to pay around £1.10 Shoulder (Mar–May & Sep–Oct)
per litre. »»Crowds reduce.
»»Prices drop.
RENTAL CARS »»Weather often good.

Avis www.avis.co.uk Low Season (Nov–Feb)
»»Wet and cold.
Budget www.budget.co.uk »»Snow falls in mountain areas.
»»Outside London, opening hours often reduced.
Europcar www.europcar.
co.uk

Thrifty www.thrifty.co.uk

IMPORTANT NUMBERS

Emergency (%112 or
%999) Police, fire,
ambulance, mountain
rescue, coastguard
AA (%0800 88 77 66)
Roadside assistance
RAC (%800 197 7815)
Roadside assistance

290

Your Daily Budget budget to corporate offerings to Mobile Phones
Budget: Less than £55 boutique.
»»Dorm beds: £15–30 The UK uses the GSM 900/1800
»»Cheap cafe and pub meals: B&Bs Range from a room in network, which covers Europe,
someone’s house (with shared Australia and New Zealand, but
£7–11 bathroom) to luxury spoils. isn’t compatible with the North
American GSM 1900, although
Midrange: £55–120 Inns Rooms above rural pubs; most modern mobiles can
»»Double hotel or B&B room: can be a cosy choice. function on both networks.

£65–130 (London £100–200) Hostels Bare-bones, often Internet Access
dorm-style, accommodation. »»3G and 4G mobile broadband
»»Restaurant main meal: £10–20
Reviews of places to stay use the coverage is good in urban
Top End: More than £120 following price ranges, all based centres, but limited in rural areas.
»»Four-star hotel room: from on double room with private
bathroom in high season. »»Many accommodation
£130 (London from £200)
LONDON OTHER providers have wi-fi access (free
»»Three-course meal in a good or up to £6 per hour).
£ less than less than
restaurant: around £40 ££ »»Internet cafes (from £1 per
£££ £100 £65
»»Car rental per day: from £35 hour) are rare away from tourist
£100– £65– spots.
£200 £130
Money
Eating more more
than than ATMs (‘cash machines’) are
Restaurants From cheap-and- £200 £130 common in cities and towns.
cheerful to Michelin-starred, Visa and MasterCard are widely
covering all cuisines. Arriving in Great accepted, although some B&Bs
Britain take cash or cheque only.
Pubs Serve reasonably priced
meals, some are top notch. Heathrow airport Trains, Tipping
London Underground (tube) and
Cafes Good daytime option buses to central London from Restaurants Around 10–15%
for casual breakfasts, lunch or 5am to around midnight (night in eateries with table service.
afternoon tea. buses run later) are £5.70– Pubs & Bars If you order
21.50. Taxis to central London and pay at the bar, tips are not
Vegetarian Find meat-free cost £45 to £85. expected. If you order a meal at
restaurants in towns and cities. the table and pay afterwards,
But rural menus may contain Gatwick airport Trains to then 10% is usual.
just one ‘choice’. central London from 4.30am Taxis Roughly 10%.
to 1.35am £10–20; 24hr buses
In reviews, the following price (hourly) to central London from Useful Websites
ranges refer to a main dish. £5. Taxis to central London:
Prices are slightly higher in £100. Lonely Planet (www.
London. lonelyplanet.com/great-britain)
Eurostar trains from Paris Desti­nation information, hotel
£ less than £10 or Brussels Arrive at London bookings, traveller forums.
££ St Pancras International station. Visit Britain (www.visitbritain.
£££ £10–£20 com) Comprehensive tourist info.
Buses from Europe Arrive at
more than London Victoria Coach Station. 291
£20

Sleeping

Hotels From small townhouses
to grand mansions; from

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

STRETCH Grand Arcade
YOUR LEGS
Browse some of the 60 prestigious shops
CAMBRIDGE in Cambridge’s glitzy Grand Arcade.
It’s one of the few places you can park
Start/Finish: Grand Arcade centrally, so it’s a good place to start.
Distance: 3 miles
Duration: Three hours The Walk » Head for the Lion Yard entrance; exit

University city Cambridge is a place onto Petty Cury, crossing the square to emerge
in which to walk. This tour takes in onto stately King’s Parade. Cut left to King’s
a prestigious college, magnificent College Chapel.
chapels, an ancient library, a cosy
teashop and gardens lining a river King’s College Chapel
filled with punts.
In a city crammed with showstop-
Take this walk on Trip ping buildings, King’s College Chapel
(%01223-331212; www.kings.cam.ac.uk/
f chapel; King’s Pde; adult/child £9/6; h9.30am-
3.15pm Mon-Sat & 1.15-2.30pm Sun term time,
9.30am-4.30pm daily, to 3.30pm Dec, Jan &
university holidays) is the scene-stealer. The
grandiose structure is one of England’s
most extraordinary examples of Gothic
architecture. Its intricate 80m-long, fan-
vaulted ceiling is the world’s largest.

The Walk » Stroll north up King’s Parade.

Great St Mary’s Church

A major expansion of Great St Mary’s
(www.gsm.cam.ac.uk; Senate House Hill;
h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun) between
1478 and 1519 resulted in the late–Gothic
Perpendicular style you see today. Strik-
ing features include the mid-Victorian
stained-glass windows, seating galleries
and two organs. Climb the tower (adult/
child £3.90/2.50) for superb vistas.

The Walk » Dodge bicyclists and touting tour

guides to marvel at the ornate gates of Gonville
& Caius College. Soon Trinity’s elaborate Tudor
entrance way towers up on the left.

Trinity College

The largest of Cambridge’s colleges,
elegant Trinity College (www.trin.cam.ac.uk;
Trinity St; adult/child £3/1; h10am-4.30pm,
closed early Apr–mid-Jun) features a sweeping
Great Court: the biggest of its kind in the
world. It also boasts the renowned Wren
Library (hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri, plus 10.30am-
12.30pm Sat term time only), containing
55,000 books dated before 1820. Works
include those by Shakespeare and Swift.

292

And an original Winnie the Pooh, writ- 11111
ten by Trinity graduate AA Milne.
11111
The Walk » Head back through Trinity’s entrance
11111
and pass the front of gorgeous St John’s College.
1 1 1 1 1 Victoria Rd
Round Church
1 1 1 1 1
Cambridge’s intensely atmospheric
Round Church (www.christianheritage.org. 11111
uk; Bridge St; £2.50; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri,
1.30-5pm Sat, 1.30-4pm Sun) is one of only 000000000000000
four such structures in England. It
was built by the mysterious Knights Castle St ChestertoCnaRmd
Templar in 1130.
No rt hampton St Jesus
The Walk » Cut right down sweet, narrow Green

Portugal Pl and onto wide Jesus Green. Pass ortugal Pl Park St
tennis players to stroll the wooden boardwalk
beside the river and ranks of punts. After crossing Bridge St P Round
the bridge by Magdelene College, it’s not long
before you reach the Backs. Queen's Rd The Church La
# Backs Trinity # Jesus
The Backs Trinity St
College # St John'sSt
From here you’ll see the stately sweep of
St John’s College amid the trees; Trinity Garrett Green StSidney St
sits next door. Welcome to ‘the Backs’, Hostel La
a series of riverside parks behind the
colleges’ grandiose facades and stately King's Great
courts – picture-postcard snapshots of #0000000SC0000000th0000000uMracrhy's
graceful bridges and student life. Clare Bridge College #ï # 0000
Chapel
The Walk » Nip up Garret Hostel Lane for closer #

college views. Next come the gates of Clare College, Grand
then glimpses of the impressive King’s College Arcade
Chapel; the Palladian Fellows’ Building is to the J%Benet St
right. After curving beside Queens’ College, cut left. St
King's Pde # FitzPbemillbierosk0000e0000St
Mathematical Bridge Mathematical

From Silver St’s bridge, look left to spy Bridge
the Mathematical Bridge, a flimsy-
looking wooden construction built in #
1749.
Silver Mill La
The Walk » Look out for the fleets of about-to-
Newnh a m R d Trumpington St
embark punts on the right as you head up Silver St. G ra nta Pl

Fitzbillies Fen Causeway

Cambridge’s oldest bakery, Fitzbillies
(www.fitzbillies.com; 52 Trumpington St; mains
£6-12; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat,
10am-6pm Sun) has a soft spot in the
hearts of generations of students,
thanks to its ultrasticky Chelsea buns.

The Walk » Stroll up King’s Parade, passing now-

familiar King’s College. Turn right just before Great
St Mary’s, retracing your steps back to the car.

e# 0 200 m
0 0.1 miles

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

STRETCH SouthGate
YOUR LEGS
BATH On cruising into Bath, follow signs to
SouthGate car park. It’s set beneath
Start/Finish: SouthGate a new shopping centre which aims to
Distance: 2½ miles echo the city’s Georgian architecture.
Duration: Three hours
The Walk » Exit into St Lawrence St and head
Bath’s cityscape is simply
sumptuous – so stunning it has north, to join Stall St, before cutting right down
World Heritage site status. On this Abbeygate St towards the Roman Baths.
walk you’ll encounter architecture
ranging from Roman baths via a Roman Baths
medieval cathedral to exquisite
Georgian designs. The Romans built a complex of bath-
houses (p150) above three natural hot
Take this walk on Trips springs, which emerge at a toasty 46°C
(115°F). They form one of the best-
fh preserved ancient Roman spas in the
world. A tour reveals the Great Bath
(a lead-lined pool filled with steaming
water), bathing pools, changing rooms
and excavated sections revealing the
hypocaust heating system.

The Walk » From Bath’s baths it’s a few steps

east to the city’s abbey.

Bath Abbey

Towering Bath Abbey (p196) was built
between 1499 and 1616, making it the
last great medieval church raised in
England. On the striking west facade
angels climb up and down stone lad-
ders, commemorating a dream of the
founder, Bishop Oliver King. You can
also take tower tours.

The Walk » Cross the square south of Bath

Abbey, then wind onto Parade Gardens passing
the Empire Hotel (1901) and the rushing weir to
Pultney Bridge (1773), a rarity in that it features
shops. Then duck up Green St.

Tasting Room

High-class vintages, tapas and piled-
high platters of meats and cheese are
the modi operandi of the Tasting Room
(%01225-483070; www.tastingroom.co.uk; 6
Green St; mains £6-13; h10.30am-11pm Wed-
Sat, to 4.30pm Mon & Tue), a slinky cafe-bar
set above a wine merchant.

The Walk » Turn into elegant Milsom St,

browsing its chic shops as you make your way,
via George St, into narrow Bartlett St, a trendy
enclave.

294

44

Marlborough Buildings eRoyal # 0 44400 m
Cres#cent The Paragon 0
VRicotyoarlia Russell St 0.2 miles
Brock The Bath
Park Royal Ave St Circus Assembly 44
#Rooms
Sydney
# Georgian Alfred St Henrietta Gardens
Park
Car Park GardGeeonrge St Walcot St .# River Avon Great Pulteney St 4
.# BMroialsdomStSt Green St 44
Laura Pl 44
Upper Bristol Rd QueeQnuSeqen
Sq # ò# Pulteney
Tasting Room Bridge
Barton St Recreation
Ground
Bath
Upper Stall St Abbey
Borough WallsWestgate St
##ï
Roman Baths
J% 4444444Midland BridgeRd # Parade Pde
Green # Gardens
Park
York St Cricket
Lower North Ground

G re Grand Pump Abbeygate St
Room Henry St

en Park Rd SouthGate # St Lawrence St Pul ten ey Rd
Bristol RdRiver Avon .# 444£# Bath Spa Station

Bath Assembly Rooms 444Georgian Garden

When they opened in 1771, Bath’s As- The tiny, walled Georgian Garden (off
sembly Rooms (NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Royal Ave; h9am-5pm) features period
19 Bennett St; h10.30am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm plants and gravel walkways. They’ve
Nov-Feb) were where fashionable social- been carefully restored, providing an
ites gathered to waltz, play cards and intriguing insight into what would have
listen to the latest chamber music. Tour lain behind the Circus’ grand facades.
the card room, tearoom and ballroom.
The Walk » Pass through Queen Sq, the oldest
The Walk » Next it’s into The Circus (1768),
of Bath’s Georgian squares to skirt the elaborate
a gorgeous ring of 33 houses divided into semi- Theatre Royal (1805). Upper Borough Walls marks
circular terraces. From there gracious Brock St medieval Bath’s northern edge; from here it’s a
gradually reveals Bath’s exquisite Royal Crescent. short stroll to the Pump Room.

Royal Crescent Grand Pump Room

The imposing, impeccably grand Royal The centre of the grand 19th-century
Crescent (p196) curls around private Pump Room (www.romanbaths.co.uk; Stall
lawns. Designed by John Wood the St; h10am-5pm) is filled with restaurant
Younger (1728–82) and built between tables, but the interior also shelters an
1767 and 1775, the houses appear per- ornate spa fountain from which Bath’s
fectly symmetrical from the outside, but famous hot springs flow. Ask staff for a
no two houses are quite the same inside. (free) glass; it will be startlingly warm –
an impressive 38°C (100°F).
The Walk » From the Crescent’s far end, stroll
The Walk » Cut down Stall St, back into
back along Royal Ave. Opposite the bowling
green pavilion, cut left from the main road, up an St Lawrence St and back to your car.
easy-to-miss path to hunt out the gate in the wall
leading into the Georgian Garden.

295



Ireland

YOUR MAIN REASON FOR VISITING?
TO EXPERIENCE IRELAND OF THE
POSTCARD – captivating peninsulas,
dramatic wildness and undulating
hills. Scenery, history, culture, bustling
cosmopolitanism and the stillness of village
life – you’ll visit blockbuster attractions
and replicate famous photo ops. But there
are plenty of surprises too – and they’re all
within easy reach of each other. Whether you
want to drive through the wildest terrain or
sample great food while hopping between spa
treatments, we’ve got something for you.

Ring of Kerry Ruined cottage on the seashore

REMIZOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ireland

Ballyliffin
#]L\#Bim#^u\#anDLvPcoaeorndrarrydtny#\soat/neCwdoae#\l#\rretrryaineANFB#\TGoaRr#÷lleelIsynMtcaaPrisafrtflke
Dunfanaghy North
\# Channel

Gortahork #\

Burtonport Letterkenny
DONEGAL #\
\#

FG GFGF FG FG GFGFACTlOaLdCdARCaEolgNiufhAdndTed\#uNnsBfItf#\aoCWEnn\##÷PCNgreeraooaSsiNrsnMrtOot#÷kMionpu#\ouirle2aDnoCnttgmhNBPoldra2oabhtawlaaoasatBr#\lteBrtnlylkGaiiGaylrnouelac\#llCnLa#\erbyr\#rBroaoo\#ncdlae\#wrlauyacrMnrlg\#soalihiVbtAKl\#ynuleiYialm#\l#^lfaOeb#\gnceEoSiA2nlrSlBL#\taRe62nlhGiaIB#\oi#\3gGCesyAuosPnLOcLnRroAoWyDdrORmtBL#]ooBAuSEoamrnmYoSCulayle2NoglniOn#\]#l#\nig5enhaegMaa#\rn\#o\##\selMaAla#]#\oLgtOeEhhoCLNIlnaoRoT#\-ur#\LneLESRKrEgFeLooeTinhIciBhrEuwl#\OMYSabnnkWiDgRRern-eNeRtihrIru]#sMoFngErOGrKakRs::oogSrAcNFrMbiaion#÷#]TllerNO#\nlEwLalE:esyuMeOAtAnRkalCnOLl\#EPem]#OeGi:D\#\#Anea#÷FALAIHnAagrVFSTOkagbAGAFMNHNrAbhKMooLND:oeDrrreYDOetFmyEn#]lDOislColns:NRateúaNrKri#\gPRG#\eAnxgaIDAsa:#÷hYlCLTGih2taer\#REga/aDknanPH2NLr]#Ra:MnrAaMNoaeRAAlvRruaoMAReíkEoN#\n#\YggwwEGaAnhthW2rbyTH#]#]inIr3m2HD#]CLi]#o\#d5#]DuUKoB\#Ng\#L_#DrtuBeLOaDeghINr÷#nOLnDRwoaOUdI\#OWbngNTEUrWFKa\##÷r_#yhRHoL\#iBliHNlekdr\#bATWeBoLSBdFCgrsHNtwNooIiaaaterEcNnrsetaEPnDk#\etLhewnlaLslRgyeFoIrtgcoSwrkowANfPuaieoesaarsgSrlhrthldakTlen
FGKilkee #\ TIPPERARY
Fergus 2\#3 #^ Limerick Kilkenny CARLOW Ferns
Tarbert#\ Bay
Ballybunion #\ ]#

4Listowel #\

Tralee
\#
Adare\# \#Dungarvan \#

Tipperary ]# Cashel KILKENNY \# Enniscorthy

LIMERICK #\ New Wexford
Ross
#\ \# ]#

Cahir Waterford

#^
4Dingle
#\
Annascaul Castlemaine WEXFORD \# Rosslare
#\ Harbour
#\ CORK Mallow Lism#\ orWe AT#\EDRuFnOgRaDrva\#nTramore \# StCGhaeonrngeel's
\#
KERRY Kilmore
FGKells Quay

Portmagee #\

GF#\
24 #÷ KNia#]ltlaiKornnilaellyaPranreky Cor#^k 23 \# \#Ardmore
Youghal
#\ Kenmare
GFWaterville \# #\ Cobh
\#
Caherdaniel
2#\2 #÷ Gougane Barra
Forest Park
\#
\# Bantry
Glengarriff

#\ Clonakilty

#\ Baltimore

e# 0 50 km
0 25 miles

298