The Places You Must See In This World (DK Eyewitness Travel Guides)

FRANCE 10 Atlantic to Med At Les Arènes (Amphi-
théâtre; www.arenes-arles.
JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET © com; Rond-Point des Arènes;
adult/child €6/free, incl Théâ-
tre Antique €9/free; h9am-
8pm Jul & Aug, to 7pm May-Jun
& Sep, shorter hours rest of
year) slaves, criminals and
wild animals (includ-
ing giraffes) met their
dramatic demise before
a jubilant 20,000-strong
crowd during Roman
gladiatorial displays.

The Théâtre Antique
(%04 90 96 93 30; bd des
Lices; h9am-7pm May-Sep,
shorter hours rest of year),
which dates from the 1st
century BC, is still regu-
larly used for al fresco
concerts and plays.

5 4 p151

The Drive » From Arles take

the scenic N568 and A55 route
into Marseille. It’s 88km (an
hour’s drive) away.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT

8 Marseille

With its history, fusion of
cultures, souq-like mar-
kets, millennia-old port
and corniches (coastal
roads) along rocky inlets
and sun-baked beaches,
Marseille is a captivating
and exotic city.

Ships have docked for
more than 26 centuries at
the city’s birthplace, the
colourful Vieux Port (Old
Port), which remains a
thriving harbour to this
day. Guarding it are Bas
Fort St-Nicolas on the
south side and, across the
water, Fort St-Jean, found-
ed in the 13th century by

149

FRANCE 10 Atlantic to Med the Knights Hospitaller ence. It’s a mishmash of cinema’s most prestigious
of St John of Jerusa- lanes hiding artisan shops, event on a 1½-hour guid-
lem. A vertigo-inducing ateliers (workshops) and ed tour run by the tourist
footbridge links the latter terraced houses strung office (%04 91 13 89 00;
with the stunning Musée with drying washing. www.marseille-tourisme.com;
11 La Canebière; h9am-7pm
des Civilisations de The Drive » To get from Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun).

l’Europe et de la Méditer- Marseille to Cannes, take the 5 4 p172
ranée, (MuCEM; www.mucem. northbound A52 and join the The Drive » Weave along
org; 7 Promenade Robert Laffont; A8 toll road just east of Aix-en-
adult/family/child €9.50/14/ Provence. It’s 181km and takes the D6007 to Nice, taking in
free; h10am-8pm Wed-Mon just under two hours. cliffs, turquoise waters and the
Jul & Aug, 11am-7pm Wed-Mon yachties’ town of Antibes. It’s
Sep, Oct, May & Jun, 11am-6pm 9 Cannes 31km and, on a good day, takes
Wed-Mon Nov-Apr) the icon of 45 minutes.
modern Marseille. Its vast The eponymous film
anthropological collec- festival only lasts for two a Nice
tion is housed in a bold, weeks in May, but thanks
contemporary building to regular visits from cele­ You don’t need to be a
known as J4, designed by brities the buzz and glitz painter or artist to appre-
Algerian-born, Marseille- are in Cannes year-round. ciate the extraordinary
educated architect Rudi light in Nice. Matisse,
Ricciotti. The imposing Palais Chagall et al spent years
des Festivals et des lapping up the city’s
From the Vieux Port, Congrès (1 bd de la Croisette; startling luminosity and
hike up to the fantastic guided tour adult/child €4/ radiance, and for most
history-woven quarter free) is the centre of the visitors to Nice, it is
of Le Panier, dubbed glamour. Climb the red this magical light that
Marseille’s Montmartre carpet, walk down the seduces. The city has a
as much for its sloping auditorium, tread the number of world-class
streets as its artsy ambi- stage and learn about sights, but the star at-
traction is probably the
DETOUR: seafront Promenade des
AIX-EN-PROVENCE Anglais. Atmospheric,
beautiful and photogenic,
Start: 7 Arles (p147) it’s a wonderful place to
Aix-en-Provence is to Provence what the Left Bank stroll (p200) or watch the
is to Paris: an enclave of bourgeois-bohemian chic. world go by, so make sure
Art, culture and architecture abound here. A stroller’s you leave yourself plenty
paradise, the highlight is the mostly pedestrian old of time to soak it all in.
city, Vieil Aix. South of cours Mirabeau, Quartier
Mazarin was laid out in the 17th century, and is home 5 4 p151, p172
to some of Aix’s finest buildings. Central Place des
Quatre Dauphins, with its fish-spouting fountain
(1667), is particularly enchanting. Further south still
is the peaceful Parc Jourdan, where locals gather
beneath plane trees to play pétanque.

From Arles it’s a 77km (one-hour) drive down the
A54 toll road to Aix-en-Provence. To rejoin the main
route take the A51 and A7 for 32km (30 minutes) to
Marseille.

150

Eating & Sleeping

La Rochelle 1 combination. A palette of maroon and cream,
with marble flourishes here and there, bestows
4 Hôtel St-Nicolas Boutique Hotel €€ a regal feel on comfortable rooms. Bathrooms
are lavished with ecofriendly products. The
(%05 46 41 71 55; www.hotel-saint-nicolas.com; 13 breakfast buffet is largely organic. Some
rue Sardinerie et place de la Solette; d/tr €125/145; recently upgraded rooms have mod cons such
p aW) This stylish hotel, tucked in a peaceful as USB ports and coffee makers.
courtyard with delightful summer terrace, has
smart comfortable rooms with ultra-modern Arles 7 FRANCE 10 Atlantic to Med
bathrooms – think giant rain showers, heated
towel rails and sweet-smelling welcome products. 4 Le Cloître Design Hotel €€
A handful of rooms are across the courtyard in
an equally inviting annexe, and breakfast (€12) (%04 88 09 10 00; www.hotel-cloitre.com;
is served in an indoor tropical garden. Check its
website for excellent-value deals. 18 rue du Cloître; s €105, d €130-185; iW)

Proving you don’t need to spend a fortune for

originality and imagination, the 19 rooms at this

zingy hotel next to the Cloître Ste-Trophime

St-Émilion 2 combine history and modern design to winning

5 La Terrasse Rouge French €€ effect: bold colours, funky patterns and retro

furniture abound, and the rooftop terrace is a

(%05 57 24 47 05; www.laterrasserouge.com; stunning sundowner spot. The lavish breakfast

1 Château La Dominique; lunch menu €28; spread is (unusually) worth the €14 price tag.

hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Jun-Sep, noon-

2.30pm & 7-11pm Fri & Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun- Nice a

Thu Oct-May) Foodies adore this spectacular

vineyard restaurant. Chefs work exclusively with 5 Le Bistrot

small local producers to source the seasonal Modern French €€

veg, fruit and so on used in their creative d’Antoine

cuisine. Oysters are fresh from Cap Ferret, (%04 93 85 29 57; 27 rue de la Préfecture; menus

caviar comes from Neuvic in the Dordogne and €25-43, mains €15-25; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm

the wine list is, naturally, extraordinary. Tue-Sat) A quintessential French bistro, right

down to the checked tablecloths, streetside

Toulouse 5 tables and impeccable service – not to mention

5 Le Genty Magre French €€€ tdhisehheasnldikwerriattbebnitbplaâctkéb, pooatrC-dca,oplootiaoknedCdeadppowtioriktnh,CbacplloatiosodsniCcaption

sausage and duck breast. For classic French

(%05 61 21 38 60; www.legentymagre.com; food, this is a treat.

3 rue Genty Magre; mains €18-30, menu €38; 4 Nice Garden

h12.30-2.30pm & 8-10pm Tue-Sat) Classic Boutique Hotel €€

French cuisine is the order of the day here, but Hôtel

lauded chef Romain Brard has plenty of modern (%04 93 87 35 62; www.nicegardenhotel.com;

tricks up his sleeve, too. The dining room feels 11 rue du Congrès; s €75, d €90-123, tr €138;

inviting, with brick walls, burnished wood and hreception 8am-9pm; aW) Behind heavy

sultry lighting. It’s arguably the best place in the iron gates hides this gem: nine beautifully

city to try rich, traditional dishes such as confit appointed rooms – the work of the exquisite

de canard (duck confit) or cassoulet (stew). Marion – are a subtle blend of old and new and

4 Hôtel Albert 1er Hotel €€ overlook a delightful garden with a glorious

(%05 61 21 47 49; www.hotel-albert1.com; 8 rue orange tree. Amazingly, all this charm and

Rivals; d €65-145; aW) The Albert’s central peacefulness is just two blocks from the

location and eager-to-please staff are a winning promenade. Breakfast €9.

151

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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NICK INMAN / GETTY IMAGES ©

11The Pyrenees

Traversing hair-raising roads, sky-top passes and snow-dusted
peaks, this trip ventures deep into the unforgettable Pyrenees.
Buckle up – you’re in for a roller coaster of a drive.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

277 km 522 km 7 DAYS
Cauterets Tarascon-sur-Ariège 522KM / 324 MILES
Hit the trails at this See prehistoric art in a
chic and historic Pyrenean cavern GREAT FOR…
ski resort
JG

lL # # Foix BEST TIME TO GO

Oloron # Pau St-Girons mK##9 June to September,
Ste-Marie when the road passes
are open.
#
I ESSENTIAL
#2 # ##6 #7 PHOTO

Vallée d’Aspe Col du Tourmalet Standing on top of the
Escape the outside Marvel at the Pic du Midi.
world in this mountain panorama
wonderfully rural valley from the Pic du Midi K BEST FOR
80 km 322 km OUTDOORS

Hiking to the Lac de
Gaube near Cauterets.

CLoacuatteiroentsCTahpetiomnoduenttaaiilns-troinggoedheLraec de Gaube 153

11 The Pyrenees

They might not have the altitude of the Alps, but the Pyrenees pack a mighty
mountain punch, and if you’re an outdoors-lover, you’ll be in seventh heaven
here. With quiet villages, rustic restaurants, spectacular trails and snowy
mountains galore, the Pyrenees are a wild adventure – just remember to
break in your hiking boots before you arrive.

\#

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1 Pau monarchs of Navarre Pau’s tiny old centre FRANCE 11 The Pyrenees
and transformed into extends for around 500m
Palm trees might seem a Renaissance château around the Château de
out of place in this moun- in the 16th century. It’s Pau, and boasts many
tainous region, but Pau home to a fine collection attractive medieval and
(rhymes with ‘so’) has of Gobelins tapestries and Renaissance buildings.
long been famed for its Sevres porcelain.
mild climate. In the 19th 8 Essential France
century this elegant town LINK From Foix, it’s
was a favourite winter- YOUR four hours’ drive east to
ing spot for wealthy Brits TRIP Aix-en-Provence, where
and Americans, who left you can commence the
behind many grand villas a Atlantic to Med grand tour of France in
and smart promenades. From Foix, head reverse.
just over an hour
Its main sight is the northeast to Carcassone #\
Château de Pau (%05 59 and then east for the
82 38 00; www.chateau-pau. balmy Med or west
for the slower-paced
fr; 2 rue du Château; adult/child Atlantic coast.

€7/free; h9.30am-12.15pm

& 1.30-5.45pm, gardens open
longer hrs), built by the

e# 0 40 km
0 20 miles

0¸A64 0¸A61
Garonne
HAUTE-GARONNE
Gratens \#

\# Boulogne- Aurignac FG10 \#Carbonne Ariège
sur-Gesse \#
#\ Rieux
#\ Cazères

¸0A64 \# Salat \# Artigat
\#
#\ St-Gaudens Montesquieu-
Montréjeau Volvestre

Pamiers #\

#\ St-Bertrand de 0¸Prat La Bastide
Comminges \# de Serou
St-Lizier Lescure
Coldd'AesPpoerttet \# D117 \#
(1069m) \#

#\

c St-Girons ##\8 Foix
c
Col de ¸0Montgaillard #\ D117
Pic de Co(l1d3e49Mme)nté la Core
Bacanère (1395m) mK ·/N20
(2193m) c
Pic de ARIÈGE #9\#
R R M(83au8mbe)rmé
Tarascon- Ussat-
Bagnères R Mt Valier \# les-Bains
de Luchon (2838m)
#\

c \# sur-Ariège

Col du Portillon Guzet \#
(1320m) Neige
Vicdessos

R Pica R Pic Rouge
Mt Rouch de Bassiès
(2858m) D'Estates (2676m) 155
(3143m) R

#\

FRANCE 11 The Pyrenees Central street parking villages such as Sar- 60km. The first part
is mostly payant (charge- rance, Borcé and Etsaut. of the valley as far as
able), but there’s free Laruns is broad, green
parking on place de Ver- Near the quiet village and pastoral, but as you
dun and the street lead- of Bedous, it’s worth travel south the moun-
ing west of there (av du 18 detouring up the narrow tains really start to pile
Régiment d’Infanterie). road to Lescun, a tiny up, before broadening
hamlet perched 5.5km out again near Gabas.
5 4 p161 above the valley, overlook-
The Drive » To reach the ing the peak of Pic d’Anie Halfway between
(2504m) and the cluster of Arudy and Laruns, you
Vallée d’Aspe from Pau, take mountains known as the can spy on some of the
the N193 to Oloron-Ste-Marie. Cirque de Lescun. Pyrenees’ last griffon vul-
The first 30km are uneventful, tures at the Falaise aux
but over the next 40km south The valley ends 25km Vautours (Cliff of the Vultures;
of Oloron the mountain scenery further south near the %05 59 82 65 49; www.falaise-
unfolds in dramatic fashion, with Col du Somport (1631m), aux-vautours.com; adult/child
towering peaks stacking up on where a controversial €6/4; h10.30am-12.30pm &
either side of the road. tunnel burrows 8km un- 2-6.30pm Jul & Aug, 2-5.30pm
der the Franco-Spanish Apr-Jun & Sep). Once a com-
TRIP HIGHLIGHT border. The return drive mon sight, these majestic
to Pau is just over 80km. birds have been deci-
2 Vallée d’Aspe mated by habitat loss and
The Drive » To reach the hunting; they’re now pro-
The westernmost of the tected by law. Live CCTV
Pyrenean valleys makes a Vallée d’Ossau from Pau, take images are beamed from
great day trip from Pau. the N134 south of town, veering their nests to the visitors
Framed by mountains south onto the D934 towards centre in Aste-Béon.
and bisected by the Aspe Arudy/Laruns. From Pau to
River, it’s awash with Laruns, it’s about 42km. The ski resort of
classic Pyrenean scenery. Artouste-Fabrèges, 6km
The main attraction here 3 Vallée d’Ossau east of Gabas, is linked
is soaking up the scenery. by cable car to the Petit
Allow yourself plenty More scenic splendour Train d’Artouste (%05
of time for photo stops, awaits in the Vallée 59 05 36 99; www.altiservice.
especially around pretty d’Ossau, which tracks the com/excursion/train-artouste;
course of its namesake adult/child €25/21; hJun–
river for a spectacular mid-Sep), a miniature
mountain railway built
THE TRANSHUMANCE for dam workers in the
1920s. The train is only
If you’re travelling through the Pyrenees between late open between June and
May and early June and find yourself stuck behind a September; reserve
cattle-shaped traffic jam, there’s a good chance you ahead and allow four
may have just got caught up in the Transhumance, in hours for a visit.
which shepherds move their flocks from their winter
pastures up to the high, grassy uplands. The Drive » The D918

This ancient custom has been a fixture on the between Laruns and Argelès-
Pyrenean calendar for centuries, and several valleys Gazost is one of the Pyrenees’
host festivals to mark the occasion. The spectacle most breathtaking roads,
is repeated in October, when the flocks are brought switchbacking over the lofty
back down before the winter snows set in. Col d’Aubisque. The road feels
exposed, but it’s a wonderfully

156

scenic drive. You’ll cover about des Pyrénées (%05 62 has clung on to much of FRANCE 11 The Pyrenees
52km, but allow yourself at 97 91 07; www.parc-animalier- its fin-de-siècle charac-
least 1½ hours. Once you reach pyrenees.com; adult/child ter, with a stately spa
Argelès-Gazost, head further €18/13; h9.30am-6pm or and grand 19th-century
south for 4km along the D101 to 7pm Apr-Oct) does all the residences.
St-Savin. hard work for you. It’s
home to a menagerie of To see the scenery at its
4 St-Savin endangered Pyrenean best, drive through town
animals including along the D920 (signed
After the hair-raising drive wolves, marmots, lynxes, to the ‘Pont d’Espagne’).
over the Col d’Aubisque, giant ravens, vultures, The road is known locally
St-Savin makes a welcome racoons, beavers and as the Chemins des Cas-
refuge. It’s a classic even a few brown bears cades after the waterfalls
Pyrenean village, with (the European cousin of that crash down the
cobbled lanes, quiet cafes the grizzly bear). mountainside; it’s 6.5km
and timbered houses set of nonstop hairpins, so
around a fountain-­filled The Drive » Take the D921 take it steady.
main square.
south of Argelès-Gazost for 6km At the top, you’ll reach
It’s also home to to Pierrefitte-Nestalas. Here, the giant car park at
one of the Pyrenees’ the road forks; the southwest Pont d’Espagne (cable cars
most respected hotel- branch (the D920) climbs up a adult/child €13/10.50). From
restaurants, Le Viscos lush, forested valley for another here, a combination
(%05 62 97 02 28; www.hotel- 11km to Cauterets. télécabine and télésiege
leviscos.com; 1 rue Lamarque, (adult/child €13/10.50)
St-Savin; menus €49-75; TRIP HIGHLIGHT ratchets up the moun-
h12.30-2.30pm Tue-Sun & tainside allowing access
7.30-9.30pm daily; p aW), 6 Cauterets to the area’s trails, in-
run by celeb chef Jean- cluding the popular hike
Pierre St-Martin, known For alpine scenery, the to the sapphire-tinted
for his blend of Basque, century-old ski resort Lac de Gaube.
Breton and Pyrenean fla- of Cauterets is perhaps
vours (as well as his pas- the signature spot in the 5 4 p161
sion for foie gras). After Pyrenees. Hemmed in by
dinner, retire to one of the mountains and forests, it
cosy country rooms and
watch the sun set over the DETOUR:
snowy mountains. CIRQUE DE GAVARNIE

4 p161 Start: 6 Cauterets
The Drive » From St-Savin, For truly mind-blowing mountain scenery, it’s
well worth taking a side trip to see the Cirque de
travel back along the D101 Gavarnie, a dramatic amphitheatre of mountains
to Argelès-Gazost. You’ll see 20km south of Luz-St-Saveur. It’s a return walk of
signs to the Parc Animalier des about two hours from the village, and you’ll need to
Pyrénées as you approach town. bring sturdy footwear.

5 Argelès-Gazost There’s another spectacular circle of mountains
6.5km to the north, the Cirque de Troumouse.
Spotting wildlife isn’t It’s reached via a hair-raising 8km toll road (€5 per
always easy in the vehicle; open April to October). There are no barriers
Pyrenees, but thank- and the drops are really dizzying, so drive carefully.
fully the Parc Animalier

157

PHILIPPE COHAT / GETTY IMAGES ©

ESCUDERO PATRICK / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
OLIVER BERRY,
WRITER

The craggy peaks of the Pyrenees
are home to some of France’s
rarest wildlife and most unspoilt
landscapes, and every twist and turn
in the road seems to reveal another
knockout view – one of my personal
favourites is the amazing road over
the Col d’Aubisque, which feels
closer to flying than driving. I love
the traditional way of life here, too.
Visit during the Transhumance to be
treated to one of France’s great rural
spectacles.

Top: Col d’Aubisque
Left: Château de Pau
Right: Cauterets ski resort

FRANCE 11 The PyreneesThe Drive » After staying

FELIX ALAIN / GETTY IMAGES © overnight in Cauterets,
backtrack to Pierrefitte-Nestalas,
and turn southeast onto the
D921 for 12km to Luz-St-Saveur.
The next stretch on the D918
is another mountain stunner,
climbing up through Barèges
to the breathtaking Col du
Tourmalet.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT

7 Col du Tourmalet

Even in the pantheon of
Pyrenean road passes, the
Col du Tourmalet com-
mands special respect.
At 2115m, it’s the highest
road pass in the Pyrenees,
and usually only opens
between June and Octo-
ber. It’s often used as a
punishing mountain stage
in the Tour de France, and
you’ll feel uncomfortably
akin to a motorised ant
as you crawl up towards
the pass.

From the ski resort
of La Mongie (1800m), a
cable car climbs to the
top of the soaring Pic du
Midi (www.picdumidi.com;
adult/child €36/23; h9am-
7pm Jun-Sep, 10am-5.30pm
Oct, Dec-Apr). This high-
altitude observatory
commands otherworldly
views – but it’s often
blanketed in cloud, so
make sure you check the
forecast before you go.

The Drive » The next stage

to Foix is a long one. Follow the
D918 and D935 to Bagnères-de-
Bigorre, then the D938 and D20
to Tournay, a drive of 40km. Just
before Tournay, head west onto
the A64 for 82km. Exit onto the
D117, signed to St-Girons. It’s
another 72km to Foix.

159

FRANCE 11 The Pyrenees ROAD PASSES IN THE PYRENEES

The high passes between the Vallée d’Ossau, the Vallée d’Aspe and the Vallée de
Gaves are often closed during winter. Signs are posted along the approach roads
indicating whether they’re ouvert (open) or fermé (closed). The dates given below
are approximate, and depend on seasonal snowfall.

Col d’Aubisque (1709m, open May-Oct) The D918 links Laruns in the Vallée
d’Ossau with Argèles-Gazost in the Vallée de Gaves. An alternative that’s open year-
round is the D35 between Louvie-Juzon and Nay.

Col de Marie-Blanque (1035m, open most of year) The shortest link between the
Aspe and Ossau valleys is the D294, which corkscrews for 21km between Escot and
Bielle.

Col du Pourtalet (1795m, open most of year) The main crossing into Spain
generally stays open year-round except during exceptional snowfall.

Col du Tourmalet (2115m, open Jun-Oct) Between Barèges and La Mongie, this is
the highest road pass in the Pyrenees. If you’re travelling east to the Pic du Midi (for
example from Cauterets), the only alternative is a long detour north via Lourdes and
Bagnères-de-Bigorre.

8 Foix trades such as glass blow- provides a handy primer
ing, tanning, thatching on the area’s ancient past.
Foix is a quiet mountain and nail making, and even It’s a mix of multimedia
town, but it’s an excellent has its own blacksmith, exhibits and hands-on
base for exploring the baker and cobbler. outdoor displays, explor-
eastern Pyrenees. Loom- ing everything from pre-
ing above town is the 4 p161 historic carving to the art
triple-towered Château de The Drive » Spend the night in of animal-skin tents and
Foix (%05 61 05 10 10; adult/ ancient spear-throwing.
child €5.60/3.80; h10am- Foix, then head for Tarascon-sur-
6pm summer, shorter hours Ariège, 17km south of Foix on the About 6.5km further
rest of year), constructed N20. Look out for brown signs to south, the Grotte de Niaux
in the 10th century as a the Parc de la Préhistoire. (www.sites-touristiques-ariege.
stronghold for the counts fr; adult/child €12/8) is home
of Foix. The interior is TRIP HIGHLIGHT to the Pyrenees’ most pre-
rather bare, but there’s a cious cave paintings. The
small museum, and the 9 Tarascon-sur- centrepiece is the Salon
view from the battlements Ariège Noir, reached after an
is glorious. There’s usually 800m walk through the
at least one daily tour in Thousands of years ago, darkness and decorated
English in summer. the Pyrenees were home with bison, horses and
to thriving communities ibex. To help preserve the
Afterwards, head 4.5km of hunter-gatherers, who delicate paintings, there’s
south to Les Forges de used the area’s caves as no artificial light inside;
Pyrène (%05 34 09 30 60; shelters and left behind you’re given a torch as you
adult/child €9/6; h10am- many stunning examples enter. The cave can only
6.30pm), a fascinating of prehistoric art. be visited with a guide.
‘living museum’ exploring From April to September
Ariège folk traditions. Near Tarascon-sur- there’s usually a daily
Spread over 5 hectares, Ariège, the Parc de la tour in English at 1.30pm.
it illustrates traditional Préhistoire (%05 61 05 Bookings advised.
10 10; adult/child €11/8.30;
h10am-7pm, closed Nov-Mar)

160

Eating & Sleeping

Pau 1 Cauterets 6

5 Les Papilles Bistro €€ 5 La Grande Traditional French €€

Insolites Fache

(%05 59 71 43 79; www.lespapillesinsolites. (%06 08 93 76 30; 5 rue Richelieu; fondue per

blogspot.co.uk; 5 rue Alexander Taylor; lunch/ person €18-23; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm) FRANCE 11 The Pyrenees

dinner menu €22/45, mains around €23; You’re in the mountains, so really you should be

h12.15-2pm & 8-9.30pm Wed-Sat) Run by a eating artery-clogging, cheese-heavy dishes

former Parisian sommelier, this cosy bar-bistro such as tartiflette (potatoes, cheese and bacon

pitches itself between a bistro and a wine shop. baked in a casserole), raclette and fondue. This

It serves beautifully prepared, ingredient-rich family-run restaurant crammed with mountain

dishes like Galician-style octopus with potatoes, memorabilia will oblige.

fennel and olive tapenade, or beef with leeks, 4 Hôtel du Lion d’Or Hotel €€

tempura and lemongrass-raspberry reduction. (%05 62 92 52 87; www.liondor.eu; 12 rue

Complete the experience with the owner’s Richelieu; s €76-86, d €80-162, with half-board s/d

choice of one of the 350-odd wines stacked from €119/144; W) This Heidi-esque hotel oozes

around the shop. Gorgeously Gallic. mountain character from every nook and cranny.

4 Hôtel Bristol Hotel €€ In business since 1913, it is deliciously eccentric,

(%05 59 27 72 98; www.hotelbristol-pau. with charming old rooms in polkadot pinks, sunny

com; 3 rue Gambetta; s €55-100, d €80-110, yellows and duck-egg blues, and mountain-

f €120-130; pW) A classic old French hotel themed knick-knacks dotted throughout, from

with surprisingly up-to-date rooms, all wrapped antique sleds to snowshoes. Breakfast includes

up in a fine 19th-century building. Each room homemade honey and jams, and the restaurant

is uniquely designed, with stylish decor, serves hearty Pyrenean cuisine.

bold artwork and elegant furniture; while big

windows fill the rooms with light. Ask for a Foix 8

mountain-view room with balcony. Breakfast

costs €12. 4 Hôtel Eychenne Hotel €€

St-Savin 4 (%05 61 65 00 04; www.hotel-eychenne.com;

11 rue Peyrevidal; s/d €50/60; W) In a good

4 Hôtel des Rochers Hotel €€ location in the centre of Foix, Hôtel Eychenne

has simple, carpeted rooms with wooden

(%05 62 97 09 52; www.lesrochershotel.com; 1 shutters and bathrooms of a vaguely futuristic

place du Castillou; d €60-68, tr €95-100; pW) (circa 1960s) design, with capsule-like showers.

In the idyllic village of St-Savin, 16km south of There’s an easygoing bar downstairs.

Lourdes, this handsomely landscaped hotel 4 Hôtel Restaurant Lons Hotel €€

makes a perfect mountain retreat. It’s run by an (%05 34 09 28 00; www.hotel-lons-foix.com; 6
place Dutilh; r €79-103) One of the better hotels
expat English couple, John and Jane, who have in Foix is an old-fashioned affair with rambling
corridors and functional but comfy rooms, some
renovated the rooms in clean, contemporary of which look onto the river, while the others face
Foix’s shady streets. The riverside restaurant
fashion – insist on one with a mountain view. offers good-value half-board (menus €18 to €36).

Half-board is available.

161

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
1172
2172
4172
7173
9173

SYLVAIN SONNET / GETTY IMAGES © #

12Riviera Crossing

French road trips just don’t get more glamorous than this:
cinematic views, searing sunshine, art history aplenty and the
Med around every turn.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

110 km mK 4 DAYS
Èze 110KM / 68 MILES
End with a sundowner
in a dreamy hilltop village GREAT FOR...

Menton BHG

# BEST TIME TO GO

62 km #5 # Anytime, but avoid
La Grande Corniche #4 July and August’s
Cruise the Côte d'Azur's Roquebrune- heavy traffic.
most famous road
# # Cap-Martin I ESSENTIAL
#3 9 Monaco PHOTO

Nice Standing beneath
Delve into busy markets Augustus’
monumental Trophée
and an atmospheric des Alpes, with
old town Monaco and the Med
far below.
48 km
K BEST FOR
lL # Antibes St-Paul de GLAMOUR
#1 Vence
# Strolling the Croisette
Paint your own pictures in Cannes and fulfilling
Juan-les-Pins in this hilltop artists' those film-star fantasies.
hideaway
Cannes 28 km
Cinematic heritage
and cinematic views

to match
0 km

LMoecnattoionnSCeaspitdioentodwentaoilfsptoeagcoefhuelrgeardens and belle-époque mansions 163

12 Riviera Crossing

Cruising the Côte d’Azur is the French road trip everyone has to do at least
one in their lifetime. From film town Cannes to down-to-earth Nice via the
corkscrew turns of the Corniches and into millionaire’s Monaco, it’s a drive
that you’ll remember forever (and hopefully not because of the dreadful
summer traffic). Filmmakers, writers, celebs and artists have all had their
hearts stolen by this glittering stretch of coastline: by the end of this trip,
you’ll understand why.

w

Berre les Alpes#\ CMoal ddoenlea

# /·0¸GF ·//·I# # # /·#Km ##\PCLlaaoutuespas#\uoMGGdlser#\AoAeuCCsRoLrauCilIPLdpilTrèdeheo-iErèrILeânMenSBrotGsCe#\ea-uEs#\#\arorCpSaC-uuBo#\snor#\r#\sumeuaeOrLd#\urmmeeuspfseaiePLogft#\ooato#\unenuRsptleoleLsTLqsaLsoou-((a#\CVCu9Puue3#\o6rebC3oifrn-coln3r7iolLèelsrdmmcelorttlBee--eetu))soeRpuysVBr-o(Bia-S6lnLlole7BtaJ(ouL3#\n-e8RnaLuP#\moa0edoca#\pnuaus0ue)LVGnbsmvuRed#\3eeeealG)eSBtnt-u#\datcr#\d-etoeCJVetcSeiCaiVlè#\leat#\lrCsraa-e-rne#\LuNragonnsrargeseodcC-e#\u\#nM#\usuterre-foe-#\esNV#\snrN-Sd7at2dutr#\-0\#-8e2MVSCata-raIr#\sg#–tiiCnndeoNoAINLsln9roé8iCeatcmGreeAooGrra8-pnraTLCRrrnoaNnMpesaoôéPtr#\2idVvguniCittcao0oceeeLiirrndhool0n(neecalCd3tnneeeaBtsNoM7T'GtatfAlo]#Bs54reerlrarrzonaumi-sotdoonunnirurRnsec#\)ir-tgcrthMRelehhael5#\eé#\ear- sFLCeaCSBs#\#r\(aoG#\Èau5rePcpl#\a1izrrande2t-aNSCeduMti'm7LvlÈ-t#\aelleMa-oiez)pJ#\e9ÈPnerTeauFzeMu#\ar-eMeirtnl(-ilborBFPne1-sorio1ne#\aueen#\1n(atairt0#\9l-tulcmAe2Mvso7ig)eoemReilr\#le#_l8)#\eilcÉ
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#\ Grasse Villeneuve-
Mouans- #\ Loubet-
Sartoux #\ Valbonne Biot Plage MeditSereraanean
¸0 H#Sophia
·/N85 #\ #\
D103 #\ Antipolis
p167
GF/·A8 8
#\ Mougins Golfe-
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sur-Siagne
#\
###\ #]2 Antibes
Vallauris
LlMandelieu- #\ 2#\ Juan-les-Pins

#La Napoule #\ Le Cannet
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Cannes- Cannes GJuoalfne #Ù Plage de
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#\ Ù# Beach Cap e#
d'Antibes 0 10 km
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p166 Napoule

TRIP HIGHLIGHT a must-do, as is a night- 2 Antibes & Juan- FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing
time stroll along the les-Pins
1 Cannes boulevard, illuminated by
coloured lights. A century or so ago,
What glitzier opening Antibes and Juan-les-Pins
could there be to this Outside festival time, were a refuge for artists,
Côte d’Azur cruise than Cannes still feels irresist- writers, aristocrats and
Cannes, which is just as ibly ritzy. Private beaches hedonistic expats looking
cinematic as its reputa- and grand hotels line the to escape the horrors of
tion suggests. Come July seafront; further west post-WWI Europe. They
during the film festival, lies old Cannes. Follow came in their droves –
the world’s stars descend rue St-Antoine and snake F Scott Fitzgerald wrote
on boulevard de la Croi- your way up Le Suquet, several books here, and
sette (aka La Croisette) Cannes’ atmospheric Picasso rented a minia-
to stroll beneath the original village. Pick up ture castle (it’s now a mu-
palms, plug their latest the region’s best produce seum dedicated to him).
opus and hobnob with at Marché Forville, a
the media and movie couple of blocks back First stop is the beach
moguls. Getting your from the port. resort of Juan-les-Pins.
It’s a long way from the
picturewsnapped outside Not seduced? Then fashionable resort of
head to the Îles de Fitzgerald’s day, but the
the Palais des Festivals is Lérins, two islands a beaches are still good for
É 20-minute boat ride sun-lounging (even if you
Castellar Roverino#\ away. Tiny and traffic- do have to pay).
Ste-Agnès \# w free, they’re perfect for
LIGURIA walks or a picnic. Boats Then it’s on around
\# Ventimiglia \# for the islands leave the peninsula of Cap
from quai des Îles, on d’Antibes, where many of
Gorbio \# the western side of the the great and good had
\# Mortola harbour. their holiday villas: the
\# Garavan Menton Hotel Cap du Eden Roc
#R 5 4 p172 was one of their favourite
Roquebrune ]#7 The Drive »The most scenic fashionable haunts.
É Round the peninsula is
route to Antibes is via the pretty Antibes, with a
\# \# Carnolès coastal D6007. Bear right onto harbour full of pleasure
#É 6\# Roquebrune- av Frères Roustan before Golfe boats and an old town
MCaarptinCap-Martin Juan. With luck and no tailbacks, ringed by medieval
#\# Côte d'Azur you should hit Juan-les-Pins in
30 minutes or so.
#_8

#\

LINK a Atlantic to Med
YOUR Cover the whole
TRIP south of France by
combining these coastal
8 Essential France trips which intersect at
This trip makes a Cannes and Nice.
natural extension of our
grand tour of France's
unmissable sights.

165

FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing ramparts. Aim to arrive now start following signs to It’s now one of the
before lunchtime, when St-Paul. Riviera’s most exclusive
the atmospheric Marché locations, a haven for
Provençal will still be TRIP HIGHLIGHT artists, film stars and
in full swing, and then celebrities, not to men-
browse the nearby Musée 3 St-Paul de Vence tion hordes of sightseers,
Picasso (%04 92 90 54 20; many of whom are here
www.antibes-juanlespins. Once upon a time, hilltop to marvel at the incred-
com/culture/musee-picasso; St-Paul de Vence was ible art collection at the
Château Grimaldi, 4 rue des just another village Fondation Maeght (%04
Cordiers; adult/concession like countless others in 93 32 81 63; www.fondation-
€6/3; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Provence. But then the maeght.com; 623 chemin des
mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-noon artists moved in: paint- Gardettes; adult/child €15/10;
& 2-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep–mid- ers such as Marc Chagall h10am-7pm Jul-Sep, to 6pm
Jun) to see a few of the and Pablo Picasso sought Oct-Jun). Created in 1964
artist’s Antibes-themed solitude here, painted the by collectors Aimé and
works. local scenery and traded Merguerite Maeght, it
canvases for room and boasts works by all the
5 4 p172 board (this is how the big 20th-century names –
Colombe d’Or (%04 93 32 Miró sculptures, Chagall
The Drive »Brave the traffic 80 02; www.la-colombe-dor mosaics, Braque windows
.com; place de Gaulle; d and canvases by Picasso,
on the D6007 and avoid signs to €250-430; hrestaurant Matisse and others.
turn onto the A8 motorway: it’s noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm
the D2 you want, so follow signs late Dec-Oct; aWs) hotel While you’re here, it’s
for Villeneuve-Loubet. When you came by its stellar art worth taking a detour
reach the town, cross the river. collection). northwards to Vence,
You’ll pass through a tunnel into where the marvellous
the outskirts of Cagnes-sur-Mer;
Chapelle du Rosaire
DETOUR: (Rosary Chapel; %04 93 58
CORNICHE DE 03 26; 466 av Henri Matisse;
L’ESTÉREL adult/child €6/3; h2-5.30pm
Mon, Wed & Sat, 10-11.30am
Start: 1 Cannes (p165) & 2-5.30pm Tue & Thu, closed
mid-Nov–early Dec) was
West of Cannes, the winding coast road known as designed by an ailing
the Corniche de l’Estérel (sometimes known as the Henri Matisse. He had a
Corniche d’Or, the Golden Road) is well worth a side hand in everything here,
trip if you can spare the time. Opened in 1903 by the from the stained-glass
Touring Club de France, this twisting coast road is windows to the altar and
as much about driving pleasure as getting from A to candlesticks.
B; it runs for 30 unforgettable coastal kilometres all
the way to St-Raphael. En route you’ll pass seaside The Drive »Return the way
villages, secluded coves (sandy, pebbled, nudist, cove-
like, you name it) and the rocky red hills of the Massif you came, only this time follow
de l’Estérel, dotted with gnarly oaks, juniper and wild the blue signs onto the A8
thyme. Wherever you go, the blue Mediterranean motorway to Nice. Take exit 50
shimmers alongside, tempting you to stop for just one for Promenade des Anglais,
more swim. It’s too much to resist. which will take you all 18km
along the Baie des Anges. The
views are great, but you’ll hit
nightmare traffic at rush hour.

166

TRIP HIGHLIGHT %04 97 13 42 01; www.mamac- A Thief, when Grace Kelly FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing
nice.org; place Yves Klein; and Cary Grant cruised
4 Nice h10am-6pm Tue-Sun). the hills in a convertible,
enjoying sparkling banter
With its mix of real-city 5 4 p151, p172 and searing blue Mediter-
grit, old-world opulence The Drive »Head out of the ranean views? Well you’re
and year-round sunshine, about to tackle the very
Nice is the undisputed city through Riquier on the same drive – so don your
capital of the Côte d’Azur. D2564. You don’t want the shades, roll down the win-
Sure, the traffic’s hor- motorway – you want to hit bd dows and hit the asphalt.
rendous and the beach is Bischoffsheim, which becomes
made entirely of pebbles bd de l’Observatoire as it climbs It’s a roller coaster of
(not a patch of sand in up to the summit of Mont Gros. a road, veering through
sight!), but that doesn’t Take it all in, stop for the pan- hairpins and switchbacks
detract from its charms. city views, then get ready to as it heads into the hills
It’s a great base, with really drive. The next 12km are above Nice. There are
loads of hotels and res- thrilling, twisting past the Parc countless picnic spots
taurants, and character Naturel Régional de la Grande and photo opportunities
in every nook and cranny. Corniche. Pull over and make along the way, including
use of the picnic tables if you the Col d’Èze, the road’s
Start with a morning wish, or take a break for a hilly highest point at 512m.
stroll (p200) through hike, then continue to La Turbie. Further on you’ll pass
the huge food and the monumental Roman
flower markets on cours TRIP HIGHLIGHT landmark known as the
Saleya, then delve into Trophée des Alpes (%04
the winding alleyways of 5 La Grande 93 41 20 84; http://la-turbie.
the old town, Vieux Nice, Corniche
with many backstreet monuments-nationaux.fr; 18 av
restaurants where you Remember that sexy scene
can try local speciali- from Hitchcock’s To Catch Albert Ier, La Turbie; adult/child
ties such as pissaladière
(onion tart topped with DETOUR:
olives and anchovies) BIOT
and socca (chickpea-flour
pancake). Stop for an ice Start: 2 Antibes & Juan-les-Pins (p165)
cream at famous Fenoc-
chio (p172) – flavours This 15th-century hilltop village was once an
include tomato, lavender, important pottery-manufacturing centre. The advent
olive and fig – then spend of metal containers brought an end to this, but Biot
the afternoon sunbathing is still active in handicraft production, especially
on the beaches along the glassmaking. At the foot of the village, the Verrerie
seafront Promenade des de Biot (%04 93 65 03 00; www.verreriebiot.com; chemin
Anglais before catching des Combes; museum adult/child €3/1.50; h9.30am-7.30pm
an epic sunset. Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1pm & 2.30-7.30pm Sun Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-
Mar) produces bubbled glass by rolling molten glass
If you have the time, into baking soda; bubbles from the chemical reaction
the city has some great are then trapped by a second layer of glass. You can
museums too – you’ll need watch skilled glass-blowers at work and browse the
at least an afternoon to adjacent art galleries and shop. There are also guided
explore all of the modern tours (€6), during which you get the chance to try
masterpieces at the Musée your hand at a spot of glass-blowing – and learn why
d’Art Moderne et d’Art it’s probably best left to the professionals.
Contemporain (MAMAC;

167

DOUGLAS PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES ©

WHY THIS IS AROBYN MACKENZIE / SHUTTERSTOCKS ©
GREAT TRIP
OLIVER BERRY,
WRITER

If there were a top 10 of French
road trips, this would have to figure
near the top. It takes in most of the
quintessential sights of the Côte
d’Azur, from seaside cities to hilltop
villages, and tackles the hairpin
turns and hair-raising drops of the
three clifftop roads known as the
Corniches. The views are simply
stunning – simply put, it’s one of the
world’s must-do drives.

Top: St-Paul de Vence
Left: Èze
Right: Harbour, Cannes

168

FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing€5.50/free; h9.30am-1pm
& 2.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun mid-
DOUGLAS PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES © May–mid-Sep, 10am-1.30pm
& 2.30-5pm rest of year), a
magnificent triumphal
arch built to commemo-
rate Augustus’ victory
over the last remaining
Celtic-Ligurian tribes
who had resisted con-
quest. The views from
here are jaw-dropping,
stretching all the way
to Monaco and Italy
beyond.

The Drive »Monte Carlo may

sparkle and beckon below, but
keep your eyes on the road; the
principality will keep for another
day. Stay on the D2564 to skirt
Monaco for another amazing
10km, then turn right into the
D52 to Roquebrune.

6 Roquebrune-Cap-
Martin

This village of two
halves feels a world away
from the glitz of nearby
Monaco: the coastline
around Cap Martin re-
mains relatively unspoilt,
as if Roquebrune had
left its clock on medieval
time. The historic half of
the town, Roquebrune
itself, sits 300m high on
a pudding-shaped lump.
It towers over the Cap,
but they are, in fact,
linked by innumerable,
very steep steps.

The village is delight-
ful, free of tack, and
there are sensational
views of the coast from
the main village square,
place des Deux Frères.
Of all Roquebrune’s steep
streets, rue Moncollet –

169

FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing with its arcaded passages the Riviera once looked free.fr; av St-Jacques; adult/
and stairways carved like, before the high child €6.50/5; h10am-
out of rock – is the rises, casinos and prop- 12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Wed-
most impressive. Scurry erty developers moved in. Mon May-Aug, 10am-12.30pm
upwards to find architect It’s ripe for wandering, & 2-5pm Wed-Mon Sep-Apr),
Le Corbusier’s grave at with peaceful gardens where terraces overflow
the cemetery at the top and belle-èpoque man- with fruit trees, and the
of the village (in section sions galore, as well as beautiful, once-aban-
J, and, yes, he did design an attractive yacht-filled doned Jardin de la Serre
his own tombstone). harbour. Meander the de la Madone (%04 93 57
historic quarter all the 73 90; www.serredelamadone.
The Drive »Continue along way to the Cimetière du com; 74 rte de Gorbio; adult/
Vieux Château (montée du child €8/4; h10am-6pm Tue-
the D52 towards the coast, Souvenir; h7am-8pm May- Sun Apr-Oct, to 5pm Jan-Mar,
following promenade du Cap- Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr) for the closed Nov-Dec), overgrown
Martin all the way along the best views in town. with rare plants. The
seafront to Menton. You’ll be tourist office’s garden
there in 10 minutes, traffic Menton’s miniature website (www.jardins-
permitting. microclimate enables menton.fr) has a list and
exotic plants to flourish opening times.
7 Menton here, many of which you
can see at the Jardin Spend your second
Last stop on the coast night in town.
before Italy, the beautiful Botanique Exotique du
seaside town of Menton Val Rahmeh (%04 93 35 5 4 p173
offers a glimpse of what 86 72; http://jardinvalrahmeh.

PERFUME IN GRASSE

Up in the hills to the north of Nice, the town of Grasse has been synonymous with
perfumery since the 16th century, and the town is still home to around 30 makers –
several of which offer guided tours of their factories, and the chance to hone your
olfactory skills.

It can take up to 10 years to train a perfumier, but since you probably don’t have
that much time to spare, you’ll have to make do with a crash course. Renowned
maker Molinard (%04 93 36 01 62; www.molinard.com; 60 bd Victor Hugo; 30min/1hr
workshops €30/69; h9.30am-6.30pm) runs workshops ranging from 30-minute
sessions to two hours, during which you get to create your own custom perfume
(sandalwood, vanilla, hyacinth, lily of the valley, civet, hare and rose petals are
just a few of the potential notes you could include). At the end of the workshop,
you’ll receive a bottle of eau de parfum to take home. Galimard (%04 93 09 20 00;
www.galimard.com; 73 rte de Cannes; workshops from €49; h9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm) and
Fragonard’s Usine Historique (%04 93 36 44 65; www.fragonard.com; 20 bd Fragonard;
h9am-7pm Jul & Aug, 9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Sep-Jun) offer similar workshops.

For background, it’s also worth making time to visit the Musée International de
la Parfumerie (MIP; %04 97 05 58 11; www.museesdegrasse.com; 2 bd du Jeu de Ballon; adult/
child €4/free; h10am-7pm May-Sep, 10.30am-5.30pm Oct-Apr; c) and its nearby gardens
(%04 92 98 62 69; www.museesdegrasse.com; 979 chemin des Gourettes, Mouans-Sartoux;
adult/child €4/free; h10am-7pm May-Aug, 10am-5.30pm mid-Mar–Apr & Sep–mid-Nov, closed
mid-Nov–mid-Mar), where you can see some of the many plants and flowers used in
scent-making. Needless to say, the bouquet is overpowering.

170

The Drive »Leave Menton Monaco’s royal family It’s undoubtedly delight- FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing
(time your visit for the ful but it’s the ever-
on the D6007, the Moyenne pomptastic changing of present views of the coast
Corniche, skirting the upper the guard at 11.55am). that are truly mesmeris-
perimeter of Monaco. When Nearby is the impressive ing. They just get more
you’re ready turn off into Musée Océanographique spectacular from the
Monaco, take your pick of the de Monaco, stocked with
car parks (they all charge the all kinds of deep-sea Jardin Exotique d’Èze
same rate, capped at €20 per denizens. It even has a (%04 93 41 10 30; adult/
day). Good options include the 6m-deep lagoon complete child €6/2.50; h9am-7.30pm
Chemin des Pêcheurs and Stade with circling sharks. Jul-Sep, to 6.30pm Apr-May &
Louis II for old Monaco, or the Jun, to 5.30pm rest of year), a
huge underground Casino car Round things off surreal cactus garden at
park by allèes des Boulingrins with a stroll around the the top of the village, so
for central Monte Carlo. cliffside Jardin Exotique steep and rocky it may
and the obligatory photo have been purpose-built
8 Monaco of Monaco’s harbour, for mountain goats. It’s
bristling with over-the- also where you’ll find
This pint-sized principal- top yachts. the old castle ruins; take
ity (covering barely 200 time to sit, draw a deep
hectares) is ridiculous, The Drive »Pick up where breath and gaze, as few
absurd, ostentatious places on earth offer such
and fabulous all at you left off on the Moyenne a panorama.
once. A playground of Corniche (D6007), and follow its
the super-rich, with circuitous route back up into the Èze gets very crowded
super-egos to match, it’s hills all the way to Èze. between 10am and 5pm;
the epitome of Riviera if you prefer a quiet wan-
excess – especially at the TRIP HIGHLIGHT der, plan to be here early
famous Casino de Monte in the morning or before
Carlo, where cards turn, 9 Èze dinner. Or even better,
roulette wheels spin and treat yourself to a night
eye-watering sums are This rocky little village and a slap-up supper at
won and lost. perched on an impossible the swish Château Eza, a
peak is the jewel in the fitting finish to this most
For all its glam, Riviera crown. The main memorable of road trips.
Monaco’s not all show. attraction is technically
Up in the hilltop quarter the medieval village, 4 p173
of Le Rocher, shady with small higgledy-­
streets surround the piggledy stone houses
Grimaldi Palace, the and winding lanes (and,
wedding-cake castle of yes, galleries and shops).

171

/ GETTY IMAGES ©

FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing
Eating & Sleeping

Cannes 1 Antibes 2

5 Bobo Bistro Mediterranean € 5 La Badiane Fusion €

(%04 93 99 97 33; 21 rue du Commandant (%04 93 34 45 41; 3 traverse du 24 Août; lunch

André; pizza €12-16, mains €15-20; hnoon-3pm menus €17-18.50, mains €13-15; hlunch Mon-Fri)

& 7-11pm Mon-Sat, 7-11pm Sun) Predictably, This little side street behind Antibes’ bus station

it’s a ‘bobo’ (bourgeois bohemian) crowd that has a clutch of great lunchtime restaurants,

gathers at this achingly cool bistro in Cannes’ including this exotic Moroccan-tinged diner,

fashionable Carré d’Or (Golden Sq). Decor is which serves up yummy treats like chicken tagine,

stylishly retro, with attention-grabbing objets crispy pastillas (filled pastries) and spicy quiches.

d’art like a tableau of dozens of spindles of Shame it’s only open for lunch on weekdays.

coloured yarn. Cuisine is local, seasonal and 4 Hôtel La Jabotte B&B €€

invariably organic: artichoke salad, tuna (%04 93 61 45 89; www.jabotte.com; 13 av Max

carpaccio with passion fruit, roasted cod with Maurey; d from €120; a iW) A couple of

mash fait masion (homemade). kilometres south of the old town on the coastal bd

4 Hôtel Le Boutique Hotel €€ James Wyllie towards Cap d’Antibes, this pretty

Mistral little hideaway makes a cosy base. Hot pinks,

(%04 93 39 91 46; www.mistral-hotel.com; 13 sunny yellows and soothing mauves dominate the

rue des Belges; s €89-109, d €99-129; aW) homey, feminine decor, and there’s a sweet patio

For super-pricey Cannes, this little 10-roomer where breakfast is served on sunny days. There’s

is quite amazing value. Rooms are small but a minimum stay of three nights in summer.

decked out in flattering red and plum tones –

Privilege rooms have quite a bit more space, Nice 4

plus a fold-out sofa bed. There are sea views

from the top floor, and the hotel is just 50m 5 Fenocchio Ice Cream €

from La Croisette. There’s no lift, though.

4 Villa Garbo Boutique Hotel €€€ (%04 93 80 72 52; www.fenocchio.fr; 2 place

(%04 93 46 66 00; www.villagarbo-cannes.com; Rossetti; 1/2 scoops €2.50/4; h9am-midnight

62 bd d’Alsace; d from €230; a iW) For a Feb-Oct) There’s no shortage of ice-cream sellers

taste of Cannes’ celeb lifestyle, this indulgent in the old town, but this maître glacier (master

stunner is hard to beat. Rooms are more like ice-cream maker) has been king of the scoops

apartments, offering copious space, plus since 1966. The array of flavours is mind-

kitchenettes, king-size beds, sofas and more. boggling – olive, tomato, fig, beer, lavender and

The style is designer chic – acid tones of puce, violet are just a few to try. Dither too long over

orange and lime contrasted with blacks and the 70-plus flavours and you’ll never make it to

greys, supplemented by quirky sculptures and the front of the queue. For a Niçois twist, ask for

objets d’art. Unusually, rates include breakfast. tourte de blette (a sweet chard tart with raisins,

pine kernels and parmesan).

172

5 Le Bistrot Modern French €€ Menton 7

d’Antoine

(%04 93 85 29 57; 27 rue de la Préfecture; 5 Le Cirke Seafood €€

menus €25-43, mains €15-25; hnoon-2pm (%04 89 74 20 54; www.restaurantlecirke.

& 7-10pm Tue-Sat) A quintessential French com; 1 square Victoria; menus lunch €26 & €29,

bistro, right down to the checked tablecloths, dinner €30 & €45, mains €18-35; hnoon-

streetside tables and impeccable service – not 1.30pm & 7.15-9.30pm Wed-Mon) From paella to

to mention the handwritten blackboard, loaded bouillabaisse, grilled fish to fried calamari, this

with classic dishes like rabbit pâté, pot-cooked smart Italian-run restaurant is the place to turn

pork, blood sausage and duck breast. If you’ve to for delicious seafood. The wine list is a mix of

never eaten classic French food, this is definitely Italian and French wines, and the service is as FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing

the place to start; and if you have, you’re in for sunny as Menton itself.

a treat.

4 Hôtel Le Genève Hotel €€ 4 Hôtel Napoléon Boutique Hotel €€

(%04 93 56 84 79; www.hotel-le-geneve-nice. (%04 93 35 89 50; www.napoleon-menton.com;
29 porte de France; d €95-330; a iWs)
com; 1 rue Cassini; r €135-169; aW) Situated Standing tall on the seafront, the Napoléon is
Menton’s most stylish sleeping option. Everything
just off place Garibaldi, this renovated corner from the pool, the restaurant-bar and the back
garden (a heaven of freshness in summer) has
hotel is bang in the middle of Nice’s lively Petit been beautifully designed. Rooms are decked
out in white and blue, with Cocteau drawings on
Marais quartier. Bedrooms look sleek in cool headboards. Sea-facing rooms have balconies but
are a little noisier because of the traffic.
greys, crimsons and charcoals; bathrooms are

modern and well-appointed. Breakfast is served

in the ground-floor cafe, brimful of vintage

bric-a-brac and mismatched furniture. Bars and

cafes abound here.

4 Hôtel Villa Boutique Hotel €€ Èze 9

Rivoli

(%04 93 88 80 25; www.villa-rivoli.com; 10 rue 4 Château Eza Luxury Hotel €€€

de Rivoli; s €96, d €116-178, f €254; aW) This (%04 93 41 12 24; www.chateaueza.com; rue de

charming but strangely shaped villa dates back la Pise; d from €360; aW) If you’re looking for

to 1890, and it’s packed with period detail – a place to propose, well, there can be few more

gilded mirrors, fireplaces, cast-iron balconies memorable settings than this wonderful clifftop

and old-world wallpapers, as well as little hotel, perched dramatically above the glittering

conifer trees on the balconies and a sweeping blue Mediterranean. There are only 12 rooms, so

marble staircase. Rooms are on the small side, it feels intimate, but the service is impeccable,

and some are showing their age. There’s a small and the regal decor (gildedCmapirtiroonrCsa,pstuiomnCpatputoiounsCaption

garden and car park beside the hotel. fabrics, antiques) explains the sky-high price tag.

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ESPERANZA33 / GETTY IMAGES © #

Champagne

13Taster

From musty cellars to vine-striped hillsides, this Champagne
adventure whisks you through the heart of the region to explore
the world’s favourite celebratory tipple. It’s time to quaff!

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

0 km lL##1 25 km 3 DAYS
Reims Verzenay 85KM / 53 MILES
Descend into the Climb to the top
cellars of Mumm of a lighthouse for GREAT FOR…
and Taittinger # Vrigny Champagne views
HB

Rilly-la- BEST TIME TO GO

#Montagne April to June for
spring sunshine
# # #2 or September and
October to see the
Mailly- harvest in Champagne.
Champagne
I ESSENTIAL
Cumières # #Dizy PHOTO

65 km #5# Overlooking glossy
vineyards from the
Épernay 85 km Phare de Verzenay.
Tick off the Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
prestigious names K BEST FOR
along the av de View vintage CULTURE
Champagne Champagne-making
Sip Champagne in
Km##7 equipment at the the cellars of Moët &
village museum Chandon.

LCohcaamtipoangCnaepVtinoenydaerdtasilaslotonggothheeMrearne River 175

/·A26

GF125 km to 8
‚ GF349 km to 9
13 Champagne /· \#
Taster
A4 Tinqueux
‘My only regret in life is that I didn’t drink enough
Champagne,’ wrote the economist John Maynard Vrigny #\
Keynes, but by the end of this tour, you’ll have Coulommes-
drunk enough bubbly to last several lifetimes.
Starting and ending at the prestigious Champagne #\ la-Montagne
centres of Reims and Épernay, this fizz-fuelled trip
includes stops at some of the world’s most famou#\s Pargny- #\ Jouy-lès- Reims
producers – with ample time for tasting en route. lès-Reims #\

Sacy \#
Ecueil #\

\# Chamery #\
Sermiers\#
Pourcy

¸0D386

Poucy

#\

Nanteuil- St- Imoges #\
la-Forêt

Fleury-la- ¸0D951
\# Rivière
Champillon
#Hautvillers \#4
#\
¸0D386
#\

\# Damery #\

producer. One-hour tours Cumières \# Dizy
explore its enormous cel-#\ Marne
lars, filled with 25 million /·D1
bottles of bubbly, and
TRIP HIGHLIGHT include tastings of several ·/Vauciennes D3 Magenta
vintages. #\# #\
1 Reims Épernay 5#\
North of town,
There’s nowhere better Taittinger (%03 26 85 45 Forêt
to start your Champagne 35; www.taittinger.com; 9 d'Epernay
tour than the regal city of
Reims. Several big names place St-Niçaise; tours €17-45; Vinay Moussy
have their caves (wine cel- \#
lars) nearby. Mumm (%03 h9.30am-5.30pm, shorter
26 49 59 70; www.mumm.com; \# /·D10
34 rue du Champ de Mars; tours hours & closed weekends
incl tasting €20-45; htours Oct-Mar) provides an Chavot-Courcourt\# Cuis
9.30am-1pm & 2-6pm daily, informative overview of
shorter hours & closed Sun Oct- how Champagne is actu- \#
Mar), pronounced ‘moom’, ally made – you’ll leave
is the only maison in with a good understand- Monthelon #\
central Reims. Founded ing of the production
in 1827, it’s the world’s process, from grape to #\ Mancy #6
third-largest Champagne bottle. Parts of the cellars Morangis \#

#\ Moslins

Forêt de
Brugny

Bois
D'Argensolle

#\ Gionges
#\
Chaltrait \#

Villers-
aux-Bois

176

e# 0 10 km occupy Roman stone
0 5 miles quarries dug in the 4th
century.
Ll
Before you leave town,
##]1 Reims don’t forget to drop
by Waïda (5 place Drouet
\# d’Erlon; h7.30am-7.30pm
Tue-Fri, 7.30am-8pm Sat,
¸0D944 8am-2pm & 3.30-7.30pm
Sun), an old-fashioned
0¸D951 confectioner which sells FRANCE 13 Champagne Taster
Reims’ famous biscuits
·/A4 roses (pink biscuits), a
sweet treat traditionally
Villers- nibbled with a glass of
Allerand Champagne.
Chigny- Verzenay
\# les-Roses 5 4 p183
The Drive » The countryside
\#
#\# between Reims and Épernay is
Rilly-la- #\ \# \#2 carpeted with vineyards, fields
Montagne and back roads that are a dream
#\ #Mailly- Verzy to drive through. From Reims,
3#\ head south along the D951 for
Ludes- Champagne 13km. Near Mont Chenot, turn
onto the D26, signposted to
le-Coquet Rilly and the ‘Route Touristique
du Champagne’. The next 12km
RégionPaalrdc eNlaatuMroelntagne Villers-#\ takes you through the pretty
de Reims Marmery villages of Rilly-la-Montagne
and Mailly-Champagne en route
#\ Germaine Trepail to Verzenay.
#\
Louvois\# LINK
CHAMPAGNE- YOUR
ARDENNE TRIP

Fontaine- Bouzy 8 Essential France
\# sur-Ay \# Lying 150km west
of Épernay, Paris marks
Avenay- \# \# the beginning of our epic
Val-d'Or journey around France’s
Ambonnay most essential sights.
#\
9 D-Day’s Beaches
Mutigny \# From Épernay head
west, skirting Paris, to Caen
Tours- (four hours’ drive) to follow
Mareuil- sur-Marne Conde- the course of the Normandy
\# sur-Ay sur-Marne invasion of WWII.
#\
Ay #\ 177
#\
Marne

\# ·/D3

Chouilly

#6 Cramant MARNE

\# Avize

·/D10

#\ Oger

Km#7#\ Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

#\

0¸D933

FRANCE 13 Champagne Taster TRIP HIGHLIGHT 3 Verzy it’s where a Benedictine
monk by the name of
2 Verzenay This village is home to Dom Pierre Pérignon
several small vineyards is popularly believed to
Reims marks the start that provide an interest- have created Champagne
of the 70km Montagne ing contrast to the big in the late 16th century.
de Reims Champagne producers. Étienne and The great man’s tomb lies
Route, the prettiest (and Anne-Laure Lefevre in front of the altar of the
most prestigious) of the (%03 26 97 96 99; www.cham Église Abbatiale.
three signposted road pagne-etienne-lefevre.com; 30
routes that wind their rue de Villers; h9-11.30am The village itself is
way through the Cham- & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat) well worth a stroll, with a
pagne vineyards. Of the run group tours of their jumble of lanes, timbered
17 grand cru villages family-owned vineyards houses and stone-walled
in Champagne, nine lie and cellars – if you’re on vineyards. On place de la
on and around the your own, ring ahead République, the tourist
Montagne, a hilly area to see if you can join a office (%03 26 57 06 35;
whose sheltered slopes pre-arranged tour. There www.tourisme-hautvillers.
and chalky soils provide are no flashy videos or com; place de la République;
the perfect environment multimedia shows – the h9.30am-1pm & 1.30-5.30pm
for viticulture (grape emphasis is firmly on the Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun, short-
growing). nitty-gritty of Cham- er hours winter) hands out
pagne production. free maps detailing local
Most of the area’s vine- vineyard walks; one-hour
yards are devoted to the For a glass of fizz high guided tours cost €3 (€5
pinot noir grape. You’ll above the treetops, seek with a tasting).
pass plenty of produc- out the sleek Perching
ers offering dégustation Bar (www.perchingbar. Steps away is Au 36
(tasting) en route. It’s eu; Forêt de Brise-Charrette; (www.au36.net; 36 rue Dom
up to you how many hnoon-2pm & 4-8pm Wed- Pérignon; h10.30am-6pm
you choose to visit – but Sun mid-Apr–mid-Dec) deep Tue-Sun, closed Christmas-
whatever you do, don’t in the forest. early Mar), a wine boutique
miss the panorama of with a ‘wall’ of Cham-
vines seen from the top The Drive » Stay on the pagne quirkily arranged
of the Phare de Verzenay by aroma. There’s a
(Verzenay Lighthouse; www. D26 south of Verzy, and enjoy tasting room upstairs; a
lepharedeverzenay.com; D26; wide-open countryside views two-/three-glass session
lighthouse adult/child €3/2, as you spin south to Ambonnay. costs €12/16.
museum €8/4, combined Detour west onto the D19,
ticket €9/5; h10am-5pm signed to Bouzy, and bear right The Drive » From the centre
Tue-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat & Sun, onto the D1 along the northern
closed Jan), a lighthouse bank of the Marne River. When of the village, take the rte de
constructed as a publicity you reach the village of Dizy, Cumières for grand views across
gimmick in 1909. Nearby, follow signs onto the D386 to the vine-cloaked slopes. Follow
the Jardin Panoramique Hautvillers. It’s a total drive of the road all the way to the D1,
demonstrates the four 32km or 45 minutes. turn left and follow signs to
authorised techniques for Épernay’s centre-ville, 6km to
tying grapevines to guide 4 Hautvillers the south.
wires.
Next stop is the hilltop TRIP HIGHLIGHT
The Drive » Continue south village of Hautvillers, a
hallowed name among 5 Épernay
along the D26 for 3km. Champagne aficionados:
The prosperous town
of Épernay is the self-

178

proclaimed capitale du Most of the big names frequent and fascinat-
champagne and is home are arranged along the ing one-hour tours of its
to many of the most grand av de Champagne. prestigious cellars, while
illustrious Champagne Moët & Chandon (%03 26 at nearby Mercier (%03
houses. Beneath the 51 20 20; www.moet.com; 20 26 51 22 22; www.champagne
streets are an astonish- mercier.fr; 68-70 av de Cham-
ing 110km of subterra- av de Champagne; adult incl pagne; adult incl 1/2/3 glasses
nean cellars, containing €14/19/22 Mon-Fri, €16/21/25
an estimated 200 million 1/2 glasses €23/28, 10-18yr Sat & Sun, 12-17yr €8; htours
bottles of vintage bubbly. 9.30-11.30am & 2-4.30pm,
€10; htours 9.30-11.30am closed mid-Dec–mid-Feb)
FRANCE 13 Champagne Taster
& 2-4.30pm Apr–mid-Nov,

9.30-11.30am & 2-4.30pm
Mon-Fri mid-Nov–Mar) offers

CHAMPAGNE KNOW-HOW

Types of Champagne
»»Blanc de Blancs Champagne made using only chardonnay grapes. Fresh and

elegant, with very small bubbles and a bouquet reminiscent of ‘yellow fruits’ such as
pear and plum.
»»Blanc de Noirs A full-bodied, deep golden Champagne made solely with black
grapes (despite the colour). Often rich and refined, with great complexity and a
long finish.
»»Rosé Pink Champagne (mostly served as an aperitif) with a fresh character and
summer-fruit flavours. Made by adding a small percentage of red pinot noir to white
Champagne.
»»Prestige Cuvée The crème de la crème of Champagne. Usually made with grapes
from Grand Cru vineyards and priced and bottled accordingly.
»»Millésimé Vintage Champagne produced from a single crop during an
exceptional year. Most Champagne is nonvintage.

Sweetness
»»Brut Dry; most common style; pairs well with food.
»»Extra Sec Fairly dry but sweeter than Brut; nice as an aperitif.
»»Demi Sec Medium sweet; goes well with fruit and dessert.
»»Doux Very sweet; a dessert Champagne.

Serving & Tasting
»»Chilling Chill Champagne in a bucket of ice for 30 minutes before serving. The

ideal serving temperature is 7°C to 9°C.
»»Opening Grip the bottle securely and tilt it at a 45-degree angle facing away from
you. Rotate the bottle slowly to ease out the cork – it should sigh, not pop.
»»Pouring Hold the flute by the stem at an angle and let the Champagne trickle
gently into the glass – less foam, more bubbles.
»»Tasting Admire the colour and bubbles. Swirl your glass to release the aroma and
inhale slowly before tasting the Champagne.

179

ALEXEY FEDORENKO / GETTY IMAGES ©

ONZEG / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
KERRY CHRISTIANI,
WRITER

You can sip Champagne anywhere,
but a road trip really slips under
the skin of these Unesco-listed
vineyards. Begin with an eye-
opening, palate-awakening tour and
tasting at grande maison cellars
in Épernay and Reims. I love the
far-reaching view from Phare de
Verzenay and touring the back
roads in search of small producers,
especially when the aroma of new
wine hangs in the air and the vines
are golden in autumn.

Top: Fortress, Champagne
Left: Glasses of Champagne
Right: Marne River with Épernay in background

FRANCE 13 Champagne Tastertours take place aboard
a laser-guided under-
YVES TALENSAC / GETTY IMAGES © ground train.

Serious quaffers might
prefer the intimate tours
at Champagne Georges
Cartier (%03 26 32 06 22;
www.georgescartier.com; 9
rue Jean Chandon Moët; adult
incl 1/2 glasses €12/16, 2-glass
Grand Cru €22, 3-glass vintage
€35; htours 10.30am, noon,
2.30pm, 4pm Tue-Sun), whose
warren of cellars and pas-
sageways, hewn out of the
chalk in the 18th century,
is incredibly atmospheric.
Look out for the fasci-
nating WWII graffiti.
Tours are followed by a
tasting of the maison’s
Champagnes.

Finish with a climb up
the 237-step tower at De
Castellane (%03 26 51 19
11; www.castellane.com; 57
rue de Verdun; adult incl 1 glass
€14, under 12yr free; htours
10am-11pm & 2-5pm, closed
Christmas–mid-Mar), which
offers knockout views
over the town’s rooftops
and vine-clad hills.

5 4 p183

The Drive » Head south of

town along av Maréchal Foch
or av du 8 Mai 1945, following
‘Autres Directions’ signs across
the roundabouts until you see
signs for Cramant. The village is
10km southeast of Épernay via
the D10.

6 Cramant

You’ll find it hard to
miss this quaint vil-
lage, as the northern
entrance is heralded

181

FRANCE 13 Champagne Taster THE SCIENCE OF CHAMPAGNE

Champagne is made from the red pinot noir (38%), the black pinot meunier (35%)
or the white chardonnay (27%) grape. Each vine is vigorously pruned and trained to
produce a small quantity of high-quality grapes. Indeed, to maintain exclusivity (and
price), the designated areas where grapes used for Champagne can be grown and
the amount of wine produced each year are limited.

Making Champagne according to the méthode champenoise (traditional method)
is a complex procedure. There are two fermentation processes, the first in casks and
the second after the wine has been bottled and had sugar and yeast added. Bottles
are then aged in cellars for two to five years, depending on the cuvée (vintage).

For two months in early spring the bottles are aged in cellars kept at 12°C and
the wine turns effervescent. The sediment that forms in the bottle is removed by
remuage, a painstakingly slow process in which each bottle, stored horizontally, is
rotated slightly every day for weeks until the sludge works its way to the cork. Next
comes dégorgement: the neck of the bottle is frozen, creating a blob of solidified
Champagne and sediment, which is then removed.

by a two-storey-high TRIP HIGHLIGHT press dating to 1630.
Champagne bottle. From Reservations can be
the ridge above the vil- 7 Le Mesnil-sur- made by phone or online;
lage, views stretch out in Oger ask about the availability
all directions across the of English tours when
Champagne countryside, Finish with a visit to the you book.
taking in a patchwork of excellent Musée de la
fields, farmhouses and Vigne et du Vin (%03 26 Round off your trip
rows upon rows of end- 57 50 15; www.champagne- with lunch at La Gare
less vines. Pack a picnic launois.fr; 2 av Eugène Guil- (%03 26 51 59 55; www.
and your own bottle of laume, cnr D10; adult incl 3
bubbly for the perfect flutes €12; htours 10am Mon- lagarelemesnil.com; 3 place
Champagne country Fri, 10.30am Sat & Sun), where
lunch. a local wine-growing de la Gare; menus €18-26;
family has assembled a
The Drive » Continue collection of century-old hnoon-1.30pm Mon-Wed,
Champagne-making
southeast along the D10 for equipment. Among the noon-1.30pm & 7-9pm Thu-Sat;
7km, and follow signs to Le- highlights is a massive c), which prides itself on
Mesnil-sur-Oger. 16-tonne oak-beam grape serving bistro-style grub
prepared with seasonal
produce, simple as pork
tenderloin with cider and
potatoes. There’s a €9
menu for les petits.

182

Eating & Sleeping

Reims 1 Épernay 5

5 Brasserie Brasserie €€ 5 La Cave à Regional Cuisine €€

Le Boulingrin Champagne

(%03 26 40 96 22; www.boulingrin.fr; 29-31 (%03 26 55 50 70; www.la-cave-a-champagne.

rue de Mars; menus €20-29; hnoon-2.30pm & com; 16 rue Gambetta; menus €20-38; hnoon- FRANCE 13 Champagne Taster

7-10.30pm Mon-Sat) A genuine, old-time brasserie 2pm & 7-10pm Thu-Mon; c) ‘The Champagne

– the decor and zinc bar date back to 1925 – Cellar’ is well regarded by locals for its

whose ambience and cuisine make it an enduring champenoise cuisine (snail-and-pig’s-trotter

favourite. From September to June, the culinary casserole, fillet of beef in pinot noir), served

focus is on fruits de mer (seafood) such as Breton in a warm, traditional, bourgeois atmosphere.

oysters. There’s always a €9.50 lunch special. You can sample four different Champagnes

5 l’Assiette for €28.

Champenoise Gastronomy €€€ 5 La Grillade French €€

(%03 26 84 64 64; www.assiettechampenoise. Gourmande

com; 40 av Paul-Vaillant-Couturier, Tinqueux; (%03 26 55 44 22; www.lagrilladegourmande.

menus €95-255; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm com; 16 rue de Reims; menus €19-59; hnoon-

Thu-Mon, 7.30-10pm Wed) Heralded far and 2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat) This chic, red-walled

wide as one of Champagne’s finest tables and bistro is an inviting spot to try chargrilled meats

crowned with the holy grail of three Michelin and dishes rich in texture and flavour, such

stars, L’Assiette Champenoise is headed up by as crayfish pan-fried in Champagne and lamb

chef Arnaud Lallemen. Listed by ingredients, his cooked in rosemary and honey until meltingly

intricate, creative dishes rely on outstanding tender. Diners spill out onto the covered terrace

produce and play up integral flavours – be it in the warm months.

Breton lobster, or milk-fed lamb with preserved 4 La Villa

vegetables. One for special occasions. Eugène Boutique Hotel €€€

4 Les Telliers B&B €€ (%03 26 32 44 76; www.villa-eugene.com; 84

(%09 53 79 80 74; http://telliers.fr; 18 rue av de Champagne; s €160-177, d €216-343, ste

des Telliers; s €67-84, d €79-120, tr €116-141, q €380-398; p aWs) Sitting handsomely

€132-162; pW) Enticingly positioned down a astride the av de Champagne in its own grounds

quiet alley near the cathedral, this bijou B&B with an outdoor pool, La Villa Eugène is a class

extends one of Reims’ warmest bienvenues. act. It’s lodged in a beautiful 19th-century town

The high-ceilinged rooms are big on art-deco mansion that once belonged to the Mercier

character, and handsomely decorated with family. The roomy doubles exude understated

ornamental fireplaces, polished oak floors elegance, with soft, muted hues and the odd

and the odd antique. Breakfast costs an extra antique. Splash out more for a private terrace or

€9 and is a generous spread of pastries, fruit, four-poster bed.

fresh-pressed juice and coffee.

183

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JULIAN ELLIOTT / ROBERTHARDING / GETTY IMAGES © Châteaux of

14the Loire

For centuries, France’s longest river has been a backdrop for royal
intrigue and extravagant castles. This trip weaves nine of the
Loire Valley’s most spectacular and sublimely beautiful châteaux.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS #9Km#Blois 5 DAYS
# 189KM / 118 MILES
189 km
Chambord GREAT FOR…
France's château
superstar, a royal hunting GB
lodge on steroids
BEST TIME TO GO
120 km
Amboise May and June for
Charles VIII's Loire-side good cycling weather;
birthplace and Da July for gardens and
Vinci's last home special events.

# Villandry ##6 I ESSENTIAL
##5 PHOTO
##4
Château de Chenon­
Ll# ceau’s graceful arches
reflected in the Cher
Chinon River.

Azay-le-Rideau Chenonceaux K BEST TWO
A Renaissance Wander a fairy-tale DAYS
jewel on a lovely landscape of reflected
island arches and riverside The stretch between
52 km gardens Chenonceau and
107 km Chambord takes in the
true classics.

LCochaetnioonncCeaaputxioCnhdâetteaaiulsdtoe Cgohehneorenceau 185

14 Châteaux of the
Loire

From warring medieval warlords to the kings and queens of Renaissance
France, a parade of powerful men and women have left their mark on the
Loire Valley. The result is France’s most magnificent collection of castles.
This itinerary visits nine of the Loire’s most iconic châteaux, ranging from
austere medieval fortresses to ostentatious royal pleasure palaces. Midway
through, a side trip leads off the beaten track to four lesser-known châteaux.

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FRANCE 14 Châteaux of the Loire1 Chinondown in the medieval(%02 47 96 72 60; www.
part of town (along rue chateau-de-langeais.com;
CTucked between the Voltaire), several fine adult/child €9/5; h9.30am-
dr medieval Forteresse Roy- buildings dating from the 6.30pm Apr–mid-Nov, 10am-
ale de Chinon (%02 47 93 15th to 17th centuries. 5pm mid-Nov–Mar) – built
13 45; www.forteressechinon. in the 1460s – is superbly
fr; adult/child €8.50/6.50; 4 p193 preserved inside and out,
h9.30am-7pm May-Aug, to The Drive » Follow the D16 looking much as it did at
5pm or 6pm Sep-Apr) – a the tail end of the Middle
magnificent hilltop castle north of Chinon for 10km, then Ages, with crenellated
– and the Vienne River, head 15km east on the D7 past ramparts and massive
Chinon is forever etched the fairy-tale Château d’Ussé towers dominating the
in France’s collective (the inspiration for the fairy tale surrounding village.
memory as the venue of Sleeping Beauty) to Lignières, Original 15th-century fur-
Joan of Arc’s first meet- where you catch the D57 3km niture and Flemish tap-
ing with Charles VII, north into Langeais. estries fill its flagstoned
future king of France, in chambers. In one room,
1429. Highlights include 2 Langeais a life-size wax-figure
superb panoramas from tableau portrays the mar-
the castle’s ramparts and, The most medieval of riage of Charles VIII and
the Loire châteaux, the Anne of Brittany, held
Château de Langeais here on 6 December 1491,
which brought about the
e# 0 mK#Loir #\ 20 km historic union of France
0 10 miles and Brittany.

/·A10 e Langeais presents two
faces to the world. From
FG8 deFoBrlêotis Blois \#9 Chambord the town you see a forti-
0¸#\ D112 fied castle, nearly window-
##]7 Domaine less, with machicolated
Huisseau- National de
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¸0D952 sur-Loire From Chambord
LOIR- either head north for
ET-CHER Versailles and Paris, or
so#\uth for a longer trip taking
Pontlevoy #\ Contres in wine, the Alps and the
Med.
\#
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# 0¸Montrichard #\ Monthou- Head south-east to
5#\ D176 \# sur-Cher La Rochelle (a little over
Chenonceaux ·/A85 200km) to begin a leisurely
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her #\ St-Aignan coast.
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p189

\# Montrésor \# Valençay

#\ 187

Nouans-les-
Fontaines

e

FRANCE 14 Châteaux of the Loire walls rising forbiddingly Labyrinthe (Maze) and Claude. The interior decor
from the drawbridge. the Jardin d’Ornement is mostly 19th century;
But the sections facing (Ornamental Garden), the Salon de Biencourt
the courtyard have large which depicts various was given historically
windows, ornate dormers kinds of love (fickle, coherent furnishings and
and decorative stonework passionate, tender and comprehensively restored
designed for more refined tragic). But the highlight in 2016. The lovely
living. is the 16th-century-style English-style gardens
Jardin des Simples were restored and partly
Behind the château is (Kitchen Garden), where replanted in 2015.
a ruined stone keep con- cabbages, leeks and car-
structed in 994 by warlord rots are laid out to create The Drive » Follow the D84
Foulques Nerra, France’s nine geometrical, colour-
first great château builder. coordinated squares. east 6km through the tranquil
It is the oldest such struc- Indre valley, then cross the
ture in France. For bird’s-eye views river south into Saché, home
across the gardens and to an attractive château and
5 p193 the nearby Loire and Balzac museum. From Saché
Cher Rivers, climb to continue 26km east on the D17,
The Drive » Backtrack south the top of the donjon 11km northeast on the D45 and
(keep), the only medieval 9km east on the D976. Cross
across the Loire River on the D57, remnant in this other- north over the Cher River and
then follow the riverbank east wise Renaissance-style follow the D40 east 1.5km to
10km on the D16 to Villandry. château. Chenonceaux village and the
Château de Chenonceau.
3 Villandry The Drive » Go southwest 4km
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
The six glorious land- on the D7, then turn south 7km on
scaped gardens at the the D39 into Azay-le-Rideau. 5 Chenonceaux
Château de Villandry
(%02 47 50 02 09; www. TRIP HIGHLIGHT Spanning the languid
chateauvillandry.com; 3 rue Cher River atop a su-
Principale; chateau & gardens 4 Azay-le-Rideau premely graceful arched
adult/child €10.50/6.50, bridge, the Château de
gardens only €6.50/4.50, audio- Romantic, moat-ringed Chenonceau (%02 47 23
guides €4; h9am-btwn 5pm & Azay-le-Rideau (%02 47 90 07; www.chenonceau.com;
7pm year-round, château interior 45 42 04; www.azay-le-rideau. adult/child €13/10, with audio-
closed mid-Nov–mid-Dec & early fr; adult/child €8.50/free, guide €17.50/14; h9am-7pm
Jan-early Feb) are among audioguide €4.50; h9.30am- or later Apr-Sep, to 5pm or 6pm
the finest in France, with 6pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Jul & Aug, Oct-Mar) is one of France’s
over 6 hectares of cascad- 10am-5.15pm Oct-Mar) is one most elegant châteaux.
ing flowers, ornamental of France’s absolute gems, It’s hard not to be moved
vines, manicured lime wonderfully adorned with and exhilarated by the
trees, razor-sharp box elegant turrets, delicate glorious setting, the for-
hedges and tinkling foun- stonework and steep slate mal gardens, the magic
tains. Try to visit when roofs, and surrounded by of the architecture and
the gardens are bloom- a shady, landscaped park. the château’s fascinating
ing, between April and Built in the 1500s, the history. The interior is
October; midsummer is château’s most famous decorated with rare fur-
most spectacular. feature is its Italian-style nishings and a fabulous
loggia staircase overlook- art collection.
Wandering the pebbled ing the central courtyard,
walkways, you’ll see the decorated with the royal This extraordinary
classical Jardin d’Eau salamanders and ermines complex is largely the
(Water Garden), the of François I and Queen work of several remark-
able women (hence its

188

nickname, Le Château des completed the château’s Grande Gallerie over the FRANCE 14 Châteaux of the Loire
Dames). The distinctive construction and added Cher. From 1940 to 1942 it
arches and the eastern the yew-tree maze and served as an escape route
formal garden were added the western rose garden. for refugees fleeing from
by Diane de Poitiers, Chenonceau had an 18th- German-occupied France
mistress of King Henri II. century heyday under (north of the Cher) to the
Following Henri’s death, the aristocratic Madame Vichy-controlled south.
Catherine de Médicis, the Dupin, who made it a cen-
king’s scheming widow, tre of fashionable society; The Drive » Follow the D81
forced Diane (her second guests included Voltaire
cousin) to exchange and Rousseau. north 13km into Amboise; 2km
Chenonceau for the rather south of town, you’ll pass the
less grand Château de The château’s pièce de Mini-Châteaux theme park,
Chaumont. Catherine résistance is the 60m-long, whose intricate scale models
chequerboard-floored of 44 Loire Valley châteaux are
great fun for kids!

DETOUR:
SOUTH OF THE LOIRE RIVER

Start: 4 Azay-le-Rideau
Escape the crowds by detouring to four less-visited châteaux between Azay-le-
Rideau and Chenonceaux.

First stop: Loches, where Joan of Arc, fresh from her victory at Orléans in 1429,
famously persuaded Charles VII to march to Reims and claim the French crown. The
undisputed highlight here is the Cité Royale (%02 47 59 01 32; www.chateau-loches.
fr; h24hr), a vast citadel that spans 500 years of French château architecture in a
single site, from Foulques Nerra’s austere 10th-century keep to the Flamboyant
Gothic and Renaissance styles of the Logis Royal. To get here from Azay-le-Rideau,
head 55km east and then southeast along the D751, A85 and D943.

Next comes the quirky Château de Montrésor (%02 47 92 60 04; www.
chateaudemontresor.fr; Montrésor; adult/child €8/4; h10am-7pm Apr–mid-Nov, 10am-6pm Sat
& Sun mid-Nov–Mar), 19km east of Loches on the D760, still furnished much as it was
over a century ago, when it belonged to Polish-born count, financier and railroad
magnate Xavier Branicki. The eclectic decor includes a Cuban mahogany spiral
staircase, a piano once played by Chopin and a treasury room filled with Turkish
hookahs, plus other spoils from the 17th-century Battle of Vienna.

Next, head 20km north on the D10 and D764 to the Château de Montpoupon
(%02 47 94 21 15; www.chateau-loire-montpoupon.com; adult/child €9/5; h10am-7pm Apr-Sep,
shorter hours winter), idyllically situated in rolling countryside. Opposite the castle, grab
lunch at the wonderful Auberge de Montpoupon (%02 47 59 01 18; www.chateau-loire-
montpoupon.com; Céré-la-Ronde; mains €11.50-18.50; hlunch Tue-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat Apr-Oct).

Continue 12km north on the D764 to Château de Montrichard, another
ruined 11th-century fortress constructed by Foulques Nerra. After visiting the
château, picnic in the park by the Cher River or taste sparkling wines at Caves
Monmousseau (%02 54 32 35 15; www.monmousseau.com; 71 route de Vierzon, Montrichard;
h10am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar).

From Montrichard, head 10km west on the D176 and D40 to rejoin the main route
at Chenonceaux.

189

IBREAKSTOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

VALERY ROKHIN / SHUTTERSTOCK © WHY THIS IS A
GREAT TRIP
DANIEL ROBINSON,
WRITER

Travel doesn’t get more
quintessentially French – or
splendidly pampering – than this
tour of the most famous Loire Valley
châteaux, which brings together
so many of the things I love most
about France: supremely refined
architecture, richly dramatic history,
superb cuisine and delectable wines.
My family especially enjoys the
forbidding medieval fortresses of
Langeais and Loches, which conjure
up a long-lost world of knights,
counts and court intrigue.

Top: Le Close Lucé
Left: Chapelle St-Hubert
Right: Château Royal d’Amboise

FRANCE 14 Châteaux of the Loire TRIP HIGHLIGHT

DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES © 6 Amboise

Perched on a rocky es-
carpment above town, the
Château Royal d’Amboise
(%02 47 57 00 98; www.cha
teau-amboise.com; place Michel
Debré; adult/child €11.20/7.50,
incl audioguide €15.20/10.50;
h9am-6pm or 7.30pm
Mar–mid-Nov, 9am-12.30pm &
2-5.15pm mid-Nov–Feb) was a
favoured retreat for all of
France’s Valois and Bour-
bon kings. The ramparts
afford thrilling views of
the town and river, and
you can visit the fur-
nished Logis (Lodge) and
the Flamboyant Gothic
Chapelle St-Hubert
(1493), where Leonardo
da Vinci’s presumed re-
mains have been buried
since 1863.

Amboise’s other main
sight is Le Clos Lucé (%02
47 57 00 73; www.vinci-closluce.
com; 2 rue du Clos Lucé; adult/
child €15/10.50; h9am-7pm
or 8pm Feb-Oct, 9am or 10am-
5pm or 6pm Nov-Jan; c),
the grand manor house
where Leonardo da Vinci
(1452–1519) took up resi-
dence in 1516 and spent
the final years of his life at
the invitation of François
I. Already 64 by the time
he arrived, Da Vinci
spent his time sketching,
tinkering and dreaming
up ingenious contraptions.
Fascinating models of his
many inventions are on
display inside the home
and around its lovely
7-hectare gardens.

5 4 p193

191

FRANCE 14 Châteaux of the Loire The Drive » Follow D952 5 p193 Haddock’s ancestral
The Drive » Cross the Loire home, Marlinspike Hall.
northeast along the Loire’s
northern bank, enjoying 35km of and head 16km southeast into 4 p193
beautiful river views en route to Cheverny via the D765 and D102. The Drive » Take the D102
Blois.The town of Chaumont-sur-
Loire makes a pleasant stop for its 8 Cheverny 10km northeast into Bracieux,
imposing château and gardens. then turn north on the D112
Perhaps the Loire’s most for the final 8km run through
7 Blois elegantly proportioned forested Domaine National de
château, Cheverny (www. Chambord, the largest walled
Seven French kings lived chateau-cheverny.fr; av du Châ- park in Europe. Catch your first
in Château Royal de Blois teau; château & gardens adult/ dramatic glimpse of France’s
(www.chateaudeblois.fr; place child €10.50/7.50; h9.15am- most famous château on the
du Château; adult/child €10/5, 7pm Apr-Sep, 10am-5.30pm right as you arrive in Chambord.
audioguide €4/3; h9am-6pm Oct-Mar) represents the
or 7pm Apr-Oct, 9am-noon zenith of French classical TRIP HIGHLIGHT
& 1.30-5.30pm Nov-Mar), architecture: the perfect
whose four grand wings blend of symmetry, 9 Chambord
were built during four geometry and aesthetic
distinct periods in French order. Inside are some of A crowning achievement
architecture: Gothic (13th the most sumptuous and of French Renaissance
century), Flamboyant elegantly furnished rooms architecture, Château de
Gothic (1498–1501), early anywhere in the Loire Val- Chambord (www.chambord.
Renaissance (1515–20) ley. Highlights include the org; adult/child €11/9, parking
and classical (1630s). You formal Dining Room, with €4-6; h9am-5pm or 6pm;
can easily spend half a panels depicting the story c) – with 440 rooms,
day immersing yourself of Don Quixote; the King’s 365 fireplaces and 84
in the château’s dramatic Bedchamber, with ceiling staircases – is by far the
and bloody history and ex- murals and tapestries largest, grandest and most
traordinary architecture. illustrating stories from visited château in the
Greek mythology; and a Loire Valley. Begun in 1519
In the Renaissance children’s playroom com- by François I (r 1515–47)
wing, the most remarkable plete with toys from the as a weekend hunting
feature is the spiral log- time of Napoléon III. lodge, it quickly grew into
gia staircase, decorated one of the most ambitious
with fierce salamanders Cheverny’s kennels and expensive architectur-
and curly Fs, heraldic house pedigreed hunting al projects ever attempted
symbols of François I. The dogs; feeding time, known by a French monarch.
King’s Bedchamber was as Soupe des Chiens,
the setting for one of the takes place most days Rising through the
bloodiest episodes in the at 11.30am. Behind the centre of the structure, the
château’s history. In 1588 château, the 18th-century world-famous double-
Henri III had his arch- Orangerie, which shel- helix staircase – reputedly
rival, Duke Henri I de tered priceless artworks, designed by Leonardo
Guise, murdered by royal including the Mona Lisa, da Vinci – ascends to the
bodyguards (the king is during WWII, is now a great lantern tower and
said to have hidden be- warm-season tearoom. rooftop, where you can
hind a tapestry while the marvel at a skyline of
deed was done). Dramatic Tintin fans may recog- cupolas, domes, turrets,
and graphic oil paintings nise the château’s façade chimneys and lightning
illustrate these events next as the model for Captain rods and gaze out across
door in the Council Room. the vast grounds.

192

Eating & Sleeping

Chinon 1 entrées, two mains and two desserts. It’s small,
so reserve ahead.

4 Hôtel de France Hotel €€ 4 Le Vieux Manoir B&B €€

(%02 47 93 33 91; www.bestwestern- (%02 47 30 41 27; www.le-vieux-manoir.com; 13

hoteldefrance-chinon.com; 47 place du Général rue Rabelais; d incl breakfast €150-220, f €330,

de Gaulle, aka place de la Fontaine; d €99-139, cottages €260-310; hlate Mar-1 Nov; p aW)

apt €175; aW) Run impeccably by the same Set in a lovely walled garden, this restored FRANCE 14 Châteaux of the Loire

couple since 1979, this Best Western–affiliated mansion has oodles of old-time charm. The

hotel, right in the centre of town, has 30 rooms six rooms and two cottages, decorated with

arrayed around an inner courtyard. Tastefully antiques, get lots of natural light, and owners

decorated in a contemporary style, many have Gloria and Bob (expat Americans who once ran

views of the château – as does the magnificent, an award-winning Boston B&B) are generous

flowery terrace on the roof. Offers enclosed with their knowledge of the area.

bicycle parking. No lift.

Blois 7

Langeais 2 5 L’Orangerie

5 Au Coin des Halles Bistro €€ du Château Gastronomy €€€

(%02 47 96 37 25; www.aucoindeshalles.com; 9 (%02 54 78 05 36; www.orangerie-du-chateau.

rue Gambetta; lunch menus €16.50, other menus fr; 1 av Dr Jean Laigret; menus €38-84;

€26-55; h12.15-2pm & 7.15-9pm Fri-Tue) Half hnoon-1.45pm & 7-9.15pm Tue-Sat; p) This

a block from the entrance to the château, this Michelin-starred restaurant serves cuisine

elegant eatery is mi-bistrot, mi-gastro (half- gastronomique inventive inspired by both French

bistro, half-gastronomic restaurant), serving tradition and culinary ideas from faraway lands.

delicious cuisine du marché (cuisine based on The wine list comes on a tablet computer. For

what’s available fresh in the markets) grown and dessert try the speciality, soufflé.

raised by local producers.

Amboise 6 Cheverny 8

4 La Levraudière B&B €

5 La Fourchette French €€ (%02 54 79 L8e1v9r9a;uwdiwèwre.;ladlCeianvpcrtalioubndrCeiaeaprketfi.oafnrs;Ct1a€p8ti0on, Caption
chemin de la
(%06 11 78 16 98; 9 rue Malebranche; lunch/
5-person ste €150; W) In a peaceful farmhouse
dinner menus €17/30; hnoon-1.30pm Tue-Sat,
from 1892, amid 3.5 hectares of grassland, La
7-8.30pm Fri & Sat, plus Tue & Wed evenings
Levraudière’s four rooms are comfortable and
summer) Hidden away in a back alley off rue
homey and come with king-size beds. Sonia
Nationale, this is Amboise’s favourite address
Maurice, the friendly owner, speaks English and
for family-style French cooking – chef Christine
is happy to supply local cycling maps. Situated
will make you feel as though you’ve been invited
2.5km south of the Château de Cheverny.
to her house for lunch. The menu has just two

193

NEED TO ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
KNOW
Climate
CURRENCY
Brittany & Normandy # Paris
Euro (€) GO Apr–Sep # GO May & Jun

LANGUAGE # French Alps
GO late Dec–early Apr (skiing)
French
or Jun & Jul (hiking)
VISAS
French Riviera #
Generally not required for GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct
stays of up to 90 days (or
at all for EU nationals); Warm to hot summers, mild winters Corsica #
some nationalities need a Warm to hot summers, cold winters GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct
Schengen visa. Mild year-round
Mild summers, cold winters
FUEL Alpine climate

Petrol stations are common When to Go
around main towns and High Season (Jul & Aug)
larger towns. Unleaded »»Queues at big sights and on the road, especially August.
costs around €1.28 per litre; »»Christmas, New Year and Easter equally busy.
gazole (diesel) is usually at »»Late December to March is high season in Alpine ski resorts.
least €0.15 cheaper. »»Book accommodation and tables in the best restaurants well

RENTAL CARS in advance.

ADA (www.ada.fr) Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep)
Auto Europe (www. »»Accommodation rates drop in southern France and other hot
autoeurope.com)
spots.
Avis (www.avis.com)
Europcar (www.europcar. »»Spring brings warm weather, flowers and local produce.
com) »»The vendange (grape harvest) is reason to visit in autumn.

Hertz (www.hertz.com) Low Season (Oct–Mar)
»»Prices up to 50% lower than high season.
IMPORTANT NUMBERS »»Sights, attractions and restaurants open fewer days and

Ambulance (SAMU) %15 shorter hours.
Police %17
Fire %18 »»Hotels and restaurants in quieter rural regions (such as the
Europe-wide emergency
%112 Dordogne) are closed.

194

Daily Costs Hostels New-wave hostels are networks are compatible. Use a
design-driven, lifestyle spaces French SIM card with a French
Budget: less than €130 with single/double rooms as well number to make cheaper calls.
»»Dorm bed: €18–30 as dorms.
»»Double room in budget Internet Access
Hotels Hotels embrace every
hotel: €90 budget and taste. Refuges and Wi-fi is available at major
gîtes d’étape (walkers’ lodges) airports, in most hotels, and
»»Admission to many attractions for hikers can be found on trails at many cafes, restaurants,
in mountainous areas. museums and tourist offices.
first Sunday of month: free
Price ranges refer to a double Money
»»Lunch menus: less than €20 room in high season, with private
bathroom, excluding breakfast: ATMs at every airport, most train
Midrange: €130–220 stations and on every second
»»Double room in a midrange € less than €90 street corner in towns and cities.
€€ €90–190 Visa, MasterCard and Amex
hotel: €90–190 €€€ more than €190 widely accepted.

»»Lunch menus in gourmet Arriving in France Tipping

restaurants: €20–40 Aéroport de Charles de By law, restaurant and bar prices
Gaulle (Paris) are service compris (ie include a
Top end: more than €220 15% service charge), so there’s
»»Double room in a top-end Trains, buses and RER suburban no need to leave a pourboire (tip).
trains run to the city centre every
hotel: €190–350 15 to 30 minutes between 5am Useful Websites
and 11pm; night buses kick in
»»Top restaurant dinner: from 12.30am to 5.30am. Fares French Government
are €9.75 by RER, €6 to €17.50 Tourist Office (www.france.fr)
menu €65, à la carte €100–150 by bus and €8 by night bus. Flat Sights, activities, transport and
fare of €50/55 for 30-minute taxi special-interest holidays.
Eating journey to right-/left-bank central Lonely Planet (www.
Paris (15% higher between 5pm lonelyplanet.com/france) Travel
Restaurants & bistros and 10am, and Sundays). tips, accommodation, forum
Range from traditional to and more.
contemporary minimalist; urban Aéroport d’Orly (Paris) Mappy (www.mappy.fr)
dining is international, rural Mapping and journey planning.
dining staunchly French. Linked to central Paris by
Orlyval rail then RER (€12.05) Opening Hours
Brasseries Open from dawn or bus (€7.50 to €12.50) every
until late, these casual eateries 15 minutes between 5am and Banks 9am–noon and 2–5pm
are great for dining in between 11pm. Or T7 tram to Villejuif-Louis Monday to Friday or Tuesday to
standard meal times. Aragon then metro to the centre Saturday
(€3.60). The 25-minute journey Restaurants noon–2.30pm
Cafes Ideal for breakfast and by taxi costs €35/30 to right-/ and 7–11pm six days a week
light lunch; many morph into left-bank central Paris (15% more Cafes 7am–11pm
bars after dark. from 5pm to 10am, and Sundays). Bars 7pm–1am
Shops 10am–noon and 2–7pm
Price ranges refer to the average Mobile Phones Monday to Saturday
cost of a two-course meal:
European and Australian phones
€ less than €20 work, but only American mobiles
€€ €20–40 (cells) with 900 and 1800 MHz
€€€ more than €40

Sleeping

B&Bs Enchanting properties
with maximum five rooms.

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Language

The sounds used in spoken French can almost all be found in English. There are a couple of
exceptions: nasal vowels (represented in our pronunciation guides by o or u followed by an
almost inaudible nasal consonant sound m, n or ng), the ‘funny’ u (ew in our guides) and the
deep-in-the-throat r. Bearing these few points in mind and reading our pronunciation guides
below as if they were English, you’ll be understood just fine.

BASICS Where’s …? oo ay …
Où est …?

Hello. Bonjour. bon·zhoor

Goodbye. Au revoir. o·rer·vwa EATING & DRINKING

Yes./No. Oui./Non. wee/non

Excuse me. Excusez-moi. ek·skew·zay·mwa What would you recommend?
Qu’est-ce que vous kes·ker voo
Sorry. Pardon. par·don conseillez? kon·say·yay

Please. S’il vous plaît. seel voo play I’d like …, please.

Thank you. Merci. mair·see Je voudrais …, zher voo·dray …
s’il vous plaît. seel voo play

You’re welcome. der ree·en I’m a vegetarian.
De rien. Je suis végétarien/ zher swee vay·zhay·ta·ryun/
végétarienne. (m/f) vay·zhay·ta·ryen
Do you speak English?
Parlez-vous anglais? par·lay·voo ong·glay Please bring the bill.
Apportez-moi a·por·tay·mwa
I don’t understand. l’addition, la·dee·syon
Je ne comprends pas. zher ner kom·pron pa s’il vous plaît. seel voo play

How much is this?
C’est combien? say kom·byun

EMERGENCIES

ACCOMMODATION Help! o skoor
Au secours! zhe swee·
Do you have any rooms available? I’m lost. pair·dew
Est-ce que vous avez es·ker voo za·vay Je suis
des chambres libres? day shom·brer lee·brer perdu/perdue. (m/f)

How much is it per night/person?
Quel est le prix kel ay ler pree
par nuit/personne? par nwee/per·son Want More?

DIRECTIONS For in-depth language information
and handy phrases, check out Lonely
Can you show me (on the map)? Planet’s French Phrasebook. You’ll
Pouvez-vous m’indiquer poo·vay·voo mun·dee·kay find it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or
(sur la carte)? (sewr la kart) you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone
phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.

196

windscreen petrol
pare-brise essence
par·breez
battery es·son
batterie tyre
ba·tree pneu
engine pner
moteur
mo·ter
headlight
phare
far

Signs Does that include insurance?
Est-ce que l’assurance es·ker la·sew·rons
est comprise? ay kom·preez
Cédez la Priorité Give Way
Does that include mileage?
No Entry Est-ce que le kilométrage es·ker ler kee·lo·may·trazh
Sens Interdit est compris? ay kom·pree

Entrée Entrance What’s the speed limit?
Quelle est la vitesse kel ay la vee·tes
Péage Toll maximale permise? mak·see·mal per·meez

Sens Unique One Way

Sortie Exit Is this the road to …?
C’est la route pour …? say la root poor …

I’m ill. zher swee ma·lad Can I park here? es·ker zher per
Je suis malade. a·play la po·lees Est-ce que je peux sta·syo·nay ee·see
Call the police! a·play un mayd·sun stationner ici?
Appelez la police!
Call a doctor! Where’s a service station?
Appelez un médecin! Où est-ce qu’il y a une oo es·keel ya ewn
station-service? sta·syon·ser·vees

Please fill it up.
Le plein, s’il vous plaît. ler plun seel voo play

ON THE ROAD I’d like (20) litres.
Je voudrais (vingt) zher voo·dray (vung)
litres. lee·trer
I’d like to Je voudrais zher voo·dray
hire a/an ... louer … loo·way … Please check the oil/water.
Contrôlez l’huile/l’eau, kon·tro·lay lweel/lo
4WD un quatre-quatre un kat·kat s’il vous plaît. seel voo play

automatic/ une auto- ewn o·to· I need a mechanic.
manual matique/ ma·teek/
manuel ma·nwel J’ai besoin d’un zhay ber·zwun dun
mécanicien. may·ka·nee·syun
motorbike une moto ewn mo·to
The car/motorbike has broken down.
La voiture/moto est la vwa·tewr/mo·to ay
tombée en panne. tom·bay on pan
How much is it daily/weekly?
Quel est le tarif par kel ay ler ta·reef par I had an accident.
jour/semaine? zhoor/ser·men J’ai eu un accident. zhay ew un ak·see·don

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STRETCH Place de la Concorde
YOUR LEGS
PARIS If it’s Parisian vistas you’re after, the
place de la Concorde makes a fine
Start: Place de la Concorde start. From here you can see the Arc
Finish: Panthéon de Triomphe, the Assemblée Nationale
Distance: 4.5km (the lower house of parliament), the
Duration: 3 hours Jardin des Tuileries and the Seine. Laid
out in 1755, the square was where many
Paris is one of the world’s most aristocrats lost their heads during the
strollable cities, whether that means Revolution, including Louis XVI and
window-shopping on the boulevards Marie Antoinette. The obelisk in the
or getting lost among the lanes of centre originally stood in the Temple of
Montmartre. This walk starts by the Ramses at Thebes (now Luxor).
Seine, crosses to the Île de la Cité
and finishes in the Latin Quarter, The Walk » Walk east through Jardin des Tuileries.
with monuments and museums
aplenty en route. Jardin des Tuileries

Take this walk on Trip This 28-hectare landscaped garden
(h7am-11pm Jun-Aug, shorter hours Sep-May;
8 c; mTuileries, Concorde) was laid out
in 1664 by André Le Nôtre, who also
created Versailles’ gardens. Filled with
fountains, ponds and sculptures, the
gardens are now part of the Banks of
the Seine World Heritage Site, created
by Unesco in 1991.

The Walk » Walk across place du Carrousel onto

the Cour Napoléon.

Musée du Louvre

Overlooking the Cour Napoléon is the
mighty Louvre, with its controversial
21m-high glass Grande Pyramide,
designed by IM Pei in 1989. Nearby is
the Pyramide Inversée (Upside-Down
Pyramid), which acts as a skylight for
the underground Carrousel du Louvre
shopping centre.

The Walk » Continue southeast along riverside

Quai du Louvre to the Pont Neuf metro station.

Pont Neuf

As you cross the Seine, you’ll walk over
Paris’ oldest bridge – ironically known
as the ‘New Bridge’, or Pont Neuf. Henri
IV inaugurated the bridge in 1607 by
crossing it on a white stallion.

The Walk » Cross the Pont Neuf onto the Île de

la Cité. Walk southeast along Quai des Horloges,
and then turn right onto bd du Palais.

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