DK Eyewitness Travel Guide_ China

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION 599

regions, as you may be Customs Information DIRECTORY

questioned about your occu- When entering China, visitors China International
pation and intent of visit – the are entitled to a duty-free Travel Service (CITS)
list you provide is non-binding. allowance of 70 fluid ounces

Always carry your passport, as (2 liters) of wine or spirits, 400 ∑ cits.net
it is an essential document for cigarettes, and a certain amount
checking into hotels, and the of gold and silver. Foreign Beijing
Public Security Bureau (see currency exceeding US$5,000, or 1 Dongdan Beidajie.
p604) may insist on seeing its equivalent, must be declared. Tel (010) 6522 2991.

it. Photocopying the visa Items that are prohibited include Dalian

page and the personal fresh fruit, rare animals Central Plaza Hotel,
information page will and plants, and arms and 145 Zhongshan Lu.
speed up replacement in ammunition. Chinese law Tel (0411) 8368 7843.

case your passport is lost specifies limits on the Guangzhou

or stolen. Visa extensions export of certain items, 185 Huanshi Xi Lu.

are sometimes granted such as herbal medicines. Tel (020) 8666 6889.

for 30 days by the foreign Also, objects pre-dating Shanghai
1277 Beijing Xi Lu.
affairs branch of local 1795 cannot be taken Tel (021) 6289 8899.

PSBs throughout the Shang-dynasty out of China, while Suzhou
251 Ganjiang Xi Lu.
country. Note that bronze tripod antiques made after Tel (0512) 6515 1369.

heavy fines are levied that date will need to

if you overstay your permitted have an official seal affixed.

period in China. Although foreign visitors are

largely left alone, it is not Xi’an

Permits advisable to take in politically 50 Chang’an Bei Lu.

controversial literature, especially Tel (029) 8524 1864.

Some areas of China are either to sensitive areas such as Tibet

totally or partially off-limits, where there have been instances

and may require a permit of books being confiscated.

from the PSB, include Lushun

(Liaoning), Xanadu (Inner Immunization loss of baggage, tickets, and, to
Mongolia), and parts of

Shennongjia (Hubei). Check Ensure that all of your routine a certain extent, cash and

with the PSB before going to vaccinations, such as tetanus checks. However, before signing

western Sichuan, where the and polio, are up to date. It is also an insurance policy, look for one

rules of access are not fixed. wise to get vaccinated against that excludes coverages you will

All travel to Tibet has to be hepatitis A and B, and typhoid. not require during your stay in

arranged beforehand through Only visitors traveling from China. Insurance is also essential

a travel agency in China that countries where yellow fever is to cover any adventure activity

will arrange a permit for you. endemic must provide proof or sport that you may undertake

If you want to travel outside of vaccination against the during your trip.

of Lhasa, the agency will have disease. Malaria

to arrange a tour guide, private medication is a good

vehicle and driver, and any idea for those visiting

additional permits. It is easiest rural areas, especially

to arrange this from Xining Yunnan and Hainan, as

or Chengdu. is a Japanese encephalitis

vaccination. Try www.

Embassies & Consulates mdtravehealth.com for
up-to-date travel-health

Most countries have embassies information and advice

in Beijing and consulates in on immunization.

Hong Kong, Shanghai, and

Guangzhou, and to a lesser Insurance
extent, in Chengdu, Chong-

qing, Qingdao, and Dalian. It is advisable to take out

Consular offices can re-issue an insurance policy for

passports and assist in case medical emergencies

of emergencies, such as as well as theft before

theft, imprisonment, and leaving home, checking

hospitalization. Your hotel can with your insurance

put you in touch with your company that it is

embassy or consulate, or try entirely valid in China. Classic tai hu rock formations lining the shore in Yu

www.travelchinaguide.com. The policy will cover the Yuan (Jade Garden), Shanghai

600 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Tourist Information still encounter a foreign visitor Language

With the exception of the major surcharge. Most sights, such as The official language of China is

cities, China has yet to recognize parks and temples, simply have Putonghua (literally “common

the value of professional Tourist a main ticket for entry (men tongue”), based on the dialect

Information Centers, either at piao), but further tickets may spoken in Beijing, and known

home or abroad. Those that need to be purchased for access outside China as Mandarin

exist in Beijing and Shanghai are to individual sights within the Chinese. Putonghua doesn’t

often under-funded, poorly complex. Alternatively, a specifically belong to any one

staffed, and unreliable, although “through ticket” (tao piao) can region, and is used across the

they are useful for obtaining be bought for access to all country for communication

free maps. The state-approved the sights. between

China International Travel Occasionally speakers of

Service (CITS) (see p599), there are fur- China’s num-

originally set up to cater to the ther fees for erous dialects.

needs of foreign visitors, today storing bags. Unlike other

functions as any other local The sale of Road sign in both pinyin dialects, such
and Chinese characters as Cantonese,
operator, offering nothing more tickets often Putonghua

than tours, tickets, and rented ceases half an

cars. A limited choice of hour or so before the sight can be used throughout China.

government-run travel agencies closes for the day. Guides swarm Since the vast majority of

abroad promote China tourism. around entrances to major Chinese people do not

However, they fail to offer sights and will latch onto you, understand English, it is largely

professional and unbiased even if you’re not interested. It is useless for communication

advice, instead steering wise to test their English first, as outside of hotels. The tonal

customers toward group many just repeat fixed lines, nature of Putonghua makes it

tours and standard hotels. parrot fashion, relating to the difficult for English speakers to

sight in question, and are unable become accustomed to the

Admission Charges to answer further queries. language. Pinyin, a romanization
system, helps in the recognition

Virtually every sight in Holidays & Opening of sounds and has diacritical
China carries an admission fee. Hours marks to indicate tone. A few
While many major museums are basic phrases in Putonghua are

now free to enter, most temples Even though New Year’s day listed on pages 656–60.

and parks, smaller museums, (January 1) is a public holiday

palaces, historical monuments, in China, the main holiday Facilities for the Disabled
sacred mountains, and wildlife periods are during the Lunar

reserves can only be entered New Year (Spring Festival) If you are a wheelchair user,

after paying a fee. While temples and October 1 (National Day) China is not a recommended

charge anything from ¥5 to ¥80, holidays (the May holiday is destination for you. With the

prices of all other entry tickets just a single day). Each holiday exception of Hong Kong and,

vary. It is often hard to see period officially lasts three days, to some extent, Macau, China

where the money goes as although most businesses and offers very basic facilities for the

many of China’s temples and banks remain shut for seven disabled, both in public trans-

monuments appear severely days. Accommodation prices port and accommodation.

neglected. Non-Chinese visitors rise as domestic tourism peaks. Public buildings and places of

often have to pay a higher Tourist sights, however, remain interest are rarely fitted with

admission charge, and you may open during these times. ramps or rails, although this is

slowly improving. Many of the

pavements in urban areas are

littered with obstacles and

occasional potholes, and have

high curbs, making wheelchair

access troublesome.

The scarcity of safe crossing

points on urban roads drives

pedestrians onto overhead

walkways; otherwise they have

to join the crowds surging

through the traffic. Rooms with

services for disabled visitors are

only available at the better

hotels, although elevators

are common in most hotels

Façade of the impressive Shaanxi History Museum, Xi’an over three stories high.

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION 601

Facilities for Children

The Chinese love children,

and they are usually

welcome everywhere in China.

Even though baby-changing

rooms are extremely rare,

and very few restaurants have

child seats, traveling with very

young children can have its

advantages as people will

generally go out of their way

to accommodate you in most

places and situations.

Supermarkets are well supplied

with diapers, baby wipes,

bottles, creams, medicine, Children with their parents enjoying a meal

clothing, infant milk formula, Time & Calendar

and baby food. However, the around. Photographing Despite its size, China occupies
only one time zone, and there
baby food is of a sweeter variety politically-sensitive images may is no daylight saving time.
Midday in Beijing is also midday
and nearly always processed. result in the confiscation of your in far-flung parts of China,
including Lhasa and Ürümqi,
The Chinese very rarely give film and it goes without saying which are along the same
latitude as countries that are
pacifiers to their children, that photography of military two and three hours behind
China. China time is seven or
but you can find them in sites is banned. As far as the eight hours ahead of Greenwich
Mean Time (GMT), two or three
department stores in larger regulations go, photography hours behind Australian Eastern
Standard Time, 15 or 16 hours
cities. Also bring a set of plastic from aircrafts is banned, and ahead of US Pacific Standard
Time, and 12 or 13 hours ahead
cutlery for your child, as some so is taking photographs of of US Eastern Standard Time.
The Western Gregorian Calendar
restaurants and eating places airports, harbors, and railroads. is used for all official work,
although the lunar calendar
only have chopsticks. However, barring the military is still used for calculating
the dates of festivals.
installations, most of the other
Measurements &
Photography restrictions are seldom enforced. Conversion Charts
If you are discreet and
The metric system is most
Everyone in urban China uses respectful, then you should commonly used in all
parts of China.
smartphone or digital cameras encounter no problems.
Imperial to Metric
now, so film-developing stores 1 inch = 2.5 centimeters
1 foot = 30 centimeters
are, as elsewhere, a novelty Electricity 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers
rather than the norm. While 1 ounce = 28 grams
1 pound = 454 grams
35mm color print film is The electrical current in China is 1 pint (US) = 0.473 liters
1 gallon (US) = 3.785 liters
available almost everywhere, 220 volts. You will see a variety
Metric to Imperial
don’t expect to find color slide of plugs in China, including two 1 centimeter = 0.4 inches
1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches
or high-speed film outside of flat prongs (the same as 1 kilometer = 0.6 miles
100 gram = 3.53 ounces
the large cities. Camera American plugs), or 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
1 liter = 2.11 pints (US)
batteries are widely three flat prongs (the

available in department same as Australian

stores in big cities, ones). The British three

though it is best to square-pin arrange-

bring your own supply. ment is rare outside

Many photo stores in of smart hotels, so it

Hong Kong, Macau, Plugs with two is advisable to carry

and mainland China and three prongs a travel conversion

provide transferring of plug, readily available

images from a digital camera in most of the larger cities. A

onto a disc. power-surge cable will protect

Photographing people in laptops against voltage fluctua-

China is generally not a tions, which are common in

problem, but it helps to first China. It is best to avoid cheap

ask for their permission. batteries, as they are very short-

Photography is rarely allowed lived. Instead, buy a battery

within temple halls and charger and rechargeable

museums, or at archeological batteries, which can be easily

sites, and signs indicate where found in most Chinese stores.

photography is not permitted. Blackouts are not unheard of

In case you don’t find a sign in China, so, given the erratic

with such restrictions marked powercuts, it is wise to carry

in English, it is advisable to ask a flashlight.

602 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Etiquette and women sunbathing topless
are rarely seen as Chinese beach

Despite rampant modernization, China remains a traditional culture is quite modest.

society governed by strong family values. Although the cities

and towns give the outward impression of Western modernity, Face
their inhabitants retain a deep-seated and family-oriented
conservatism. Confucian values promote respect for elders Reserved in manner and
and those in positions of authority, and reinforce notions of expression, the Chinese
also harbor strong feelings of

conformity. Religious observance is also an important part personal pride and respect. The
of people’s lives, but is largely separate from mainstream maintenance of pride and the
social behavior. The Chinese are, above all, welcoming and avoidance of shame is known as
generous, and visitors are often amazed at their hospitality. saving face. Loss of face (mianzi)
If invited to someone’s home, a gift of chocolates, French creates great discomfort and
wine, or a carton of cigarettes will be greatly appreciated. embarrassment for the Chinese,
so although you may often be

frustrated by bureaucratic red-

Greeting People tape and delays, remember that
in the same manner. It is a good arguing may make matters

While shaking hands is not idea to take some business cards, worse. Instead, try tackling

customary in China, Chinese with your particulars in Chinese difficult situations by being

men may shake your hand or on one side and in English on firm but polite, and use con-

expect their hand to be shaken the reverse, as there will be many frontation only as a last resort.

by foreign visitors. Although the occasions to give them away.

Chinese are not particularly Body Language Places of Worship
tactile in their greetings, bodily
contact is quite common Although there are

between friends, even of the Once they reach the no dress codes for

same sex. It is quite common to age of 30 or 40, the Buddhist, Daoist, or

see young men and women Chinese tend to dress Confucian temples,

walking arm in arm, or with their conservatively, visitors to mosques

arm around another’s shoulder. favoring dark and should dress respectfully

The usual Chinese greeting is ni inconspicuous colors – avoid wearing shorts

hao (how are you?) or nimen hao such as brown and or short skirts – and

in its plural form, to which you black. In cities and cover their upper arms.

reply ni hao or nimen hao – the towns, people wear Buddhist, Daoist, and

polite form is nin/ninmen hao. jeans, t-shirts, and Confucian temples are

Chinese people can be very skirts, and many relaxed about visitors

direct, and will not blanch at youngsters also dye wandering about, but

asking you how much you earn, their hair. Locals Advice for do be considerate

how old you are, or whether expect foreign visitors burning incense toward worshipers. Also,

you are married. Such questions to dress and behave a check whether you can

are seen as nothing more than little flamboyantly, so don’t take photographs within temple

taking a friendly interest in a new worry too much about what you halls, as this is often not

acquaintance. When proffering wear, but try to avoid looking permitted. Taking photographs

business cards, the Chinese do scruffy. It is also acceptable for in courtyards, however, is usually

so politely, using the fingertips both sexes to wear shorts in hot not a problem. Some Buddhist

of both hands, and receive cards weather. On the beach, nudity and Daoist temples are active,

and you should show respect

towards the resident monks.

The courtyard of the Jade Buddha Temple in Shanghai Dos & Don’ts

If invited out for dinner, expect
to see the diners competing to
pay the entire bill, rather than
dividing it up between them.
It is a good idea to join in the
scramble for the bill, or at least
make an attempt – your gesture
will be appreciated, though
almost certainly declined. The
Chinese avoid talking about
politics; it is best to follow suit.

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION 603

Annoyances

The Chinese habit of staring,

especially in smaller towns and

rural areas, can be a little

annoying. However, the intent

is rarely hostile. Staring was

common even in Beijing until the

1990s, and although it is rare in

cities today, it helps to remember

that China was closed to foreign

nationals until the early 1980s.

Another annoyance that

visitors face in smaller towns are

the constant calls of “Hellooo!”

or laowai (foreigner). It is best to

either ignore them or smile, as Bric-à-brac to be haggled over on display at a street market in Tianjin

saying hello often results in carriages. The Chinese are Tipping
bursts of laughter. In large

cities, people often strike up very generous when it comes Tipping is rare in China – there

conversation to practice their to offering cigarettes, so is no obligation to leave a tip

English. Sometimes, art students remember to be equally (xiaofei) and people don’t

try and coerce you into visiting generous in return. They also usually expect one. Some

over-priced art galleries, which enjoy drinking alcohol, and smarter restaurants, especially

you should firmly decline to do. there is no taboo against in Hong Kong, Macau, and the

Although line-ups are moderate intoxication. main Chinese cities, include a

beginning to replace the The usual accompaniment service charge on the bill.

usual mêlée at ticket offices, during a meal is beer (pijiu),

be prepared for a lot of or white spirit (baijiu). Begging
pushing and shoving. People in cities are

Since the outbreak of increasingly drinking China’s imbalanced economic

SARS in 2002, public wine, and it is available progress and huge population

health organizations in most large of rural poor have resulted in

have made consid- supermarkets. If large numbers of beggars all

erable efforts to curb someone raises a toast over the country, especially in

the habit of spitting. to you (ganbei!), it is cities. Foreign visitors naturally

It is still widespread, good form for you attract their attention, and

however, especially in A spirit consumed at to toast the person groups of children are often

rural areas. Spitting is business banquets back at a later stage. sent by their parents to extract

common on buses money. The best strategy is to

and trains, and it is not Bargaining ignore them and walk away.
considered rude to spit in

mid-conversation, so do not As a foreign national in China, it

take offense. is essential to bargain (jiangjia).

You may often be overcharged –

Smoking & Alcohol sometimes by large amounts –
in markets and anywhere

Smoking is now banned in else where prices are not indi-

public places in China, such cated. In some restaurants,

as restaurants, hotels, railway the English menu has more

stations and theaters. However, expensive rates than the Chinese

as the world’s largest producer one. You may be able to bargain

and consumer of cigarettes to reduce your hotel room-rate,

(xiangyan), these rules are especially during the low season.

difficult to enforce in China. When bargaining, there is no

Despite the appearance of need to be aggressive. Instead,

no-smoking zones, many firmly state your price – which

people choose to ignore them, should never be unrealistic – and

and towns and cities remain walk away if the vendor doesn’t

shrouded in a haze of cigarette agree. Shopkeepers will often

smoke. Many business owners agree to the price once they

resent banning their customers realize they’re losing a potential

from smoking on their premises. sale. The prices in large shops and

Smoking is also banned on government emporia (guoying A beggar in Lhasa with colorful

domestic flights and in train shangdian) are usually fixed. Buddhist regalia

604 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Personal Security & Health Security
Hosting the Olympics saw China

The Police Force in China is called the Public Security Bureau upgrade security at airports,

(gonganju), abbreviated to PSB. Foreign nationals are unlikely railway and metro stations, and
to encounter the PSB, unless extending their visa, applying at some sights, but it is rarely
for a permit to a restricted area, or reporting loss or theft. intrusive. At certain sights, you
China is a police state, so the PSB is riddled with corruption will be asked to deposit your
and overwhelming bureaucracy. Not all police stations bag before making a visit.
Always carry your passport

(paichusuo) have English-speaking staff, so try to take along with you for identification.

an interpreter if reporting a crime, although it is best to

contact your embassy or consulate first for guidance. Women Travelers

Throughout mainland China, call 110 for the police. Protect China is usually regarded as a
your valuables and important documents at all times, stay very safe destination for women.
and eat in clean places, and drink only mineral water. For In general, Chinese men are

medical attention, it is better to opt for a private clinic respectful toward women, and
rather than one of the many government hospitals. it is unlikely for them to experi-
ence any serious form of sexual

harassment. That said, never

even though it is not unusual take your safety for granted.

for things to go missing from Traveling in a group is always

hotel rooms. You could use wiser, as lone travelers are more

the safes or storage areas that likely to be mugged or assaulted.

most hotels offer, but if you However, if you do travel alone,

do so, insist on a receipt. If stay on your guard when visiting

staying in a dormitory, never rural and far-flung areas, and

leave your essentials and avoid wandering about alone

important documents lying in quiet and deserted places,

around, and be cautious especially after dark.

about giving too many As far as clothing goes, it is

details to fellow travelers. best to observe the clothing

When walking in crowded and behavior of local women,

streets, avoid wearing anything and adapt as closely as possible.

expensive or eye-catching, It helps to dress modestly,

and keep your wallet in the especially in Muslim regions

bottom of your bag, but never and rural areas.

in a backpack. Be discreet when If possible, avoid hotel

taking out your wallet; it is best dormitories and opt for single

to carry only as much cash rooms in hotels located

Crowds in the busy shopping district as you need for the day. near the center of town

of Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Keep an eye on your on well-lit streets. To avert

General Precautions belongings while visiting an undesirable encounter,
public washrooms, as carry a whistle or

Traveling in China is quite a few travelers learn a few basic

generally safe. Even though have had very unpleas- self-defense moves.

crime has burgeoned since the ant experiences.

1980s economic liberalization, Keep cash, traveler’s Gay and Lesbian
with millions of unemployed checks, passport, and Travelers
migrants flocking to the cities, visa documents in a

foreign visitors are unlikely to be money belt – ones The gay and lesbian

the victims of crime, apart from that lie flat and are scenes in China’s main

petty theft. Tourists on buses meant to be worn cities, in particular

and trains, particularly those under clothing are Shanghai, Beijing, and

in the hard-seat class (see p617) best. Also, remember Hong Kong, are growing

and on overnight journeys, to make photocopies and diversifying, with

are tempting targets for of the personal clubs, bars, and venues

thieves. Guard your camera information and China increasing in number.

and valuables, wear a money visa pages of your However, China is still

belt at all times, and secure passport and any a highly conventional

your luggage to the rack on other important society, and homo-

overnight train journeys. documents and store sexuality is largely

Hotels are, more or less, a lot them separately disapproved of and

more secure than dormitories, from the originals. Beijing PSB officer misunderstood.

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION 605

Homosexuality is legal, but of institution, you will be Public Bathrooms

there are no laws to protect expected to pay cash at the Public bathrooms are

gays, and police periodically time of being admitted. typically of the squat variety

crack down on meeting places. Pharmacies (yaodian), and are squalid, filthy, and

Even in cities, it is inadvisable identified by green crosses, are rarely cleaned, unless watched

for gays and lesbians to be open found all over China. Many of over by an attendant. There is

with their sexuality, despite the them stock both Western little privacy –

tactile relationship many medicine (xi yao) and doorless cubi-

Chinese have with friends Chinese medicine (zhong cles, separated

of the same sex. yao), and can treat you by low walls,

for minor injuries or are the norm.

Hospitals & Medical ailments. Take adequate Sign pointing the way Toilet paper is a
Facilities supplies of any to the facilities rarity – don’t forget
prescription drugs you to carry your own

It is important to take out require, and also remember to supply. Toilet paper should

comprehensive medical take the chemical – not brand – be put in the receptacle, if

insurance before arriving in name of all prescriptions, in provided, rather than down

China. China’s state hospitals case you need to restock. In the toilet, as septic systems are

vary considerably in quality; large cities such as Beijing and often unable to handle paper

the better-equipped hospitals Shanghai, prescriptions may products. You will be expected

(yiyuan) can be found in the not be required for a range of to pay a few jiao for using the

cities and large towns, but medicines, including antibiotics facilities. Use hotel and fast-food

even at the best, and sleeping pills. restaurant bathrooms whenever

communication can be Some large hotels have in- you get the opportunity.

problematic. Cities house clinics to help

with large expatriate guests with diagnosis, Hygiene Tips
communities have medical assistance,

private hospitals, and prescriptions. The rigors of travel require a few

where there are Large modern extra hygiene considerations.

exclusive clinics with hotels may also be Carry a small bar of handsoap

English-speaking able to provide a or a tube of concentrated

staff to attend to Distinctive green cross Chinese speaker camping soap with you all the

non-Chinese visitors. of a pharmacy to accompany you time. A packet of wet wipes

Consider contacting to the hospital. always comes in handy.

your embassy for a list of Those interested in traditional Warts are easily picked up

approved hospitals. In general, Chinese medicine (see p238) for from poorly cleaned shower

medical services are reasonably treating chronic ailments can stalls. You will often find a pair

cheap throughout China, but visit the traditional institutes of flip-flops under your hotel

many hospitals may levy a attached to local hospitals and bed. These are meant to be

certain amount of “foreigner medical colleges. Some hotels, worn in the shower, but you

surcharge” that could ensure too, offer traditional Chinese might consider packing a pair

better care. Whatever the type treatments. of your own.

DIRECTORY

In an Emergency International SOS, Shanghai Ireland
Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Parkway Health, 3 Ritan Dong Lu.
Tel Police 110. Building, 16 Xin Yuan Li, 203/4 West Retail Plaza, Tel (010) 6532 2691.
Tel Fire 119. Chaoyang. Clinic appts: Shanghai Center, 1376
Tel Ambulance 120. Tel (010) 6462 9112. Nanjing West Road. United Kingdom
∑ internationalsos.com Tel (021) 6445 5999. 11 Guanghua Lu.
Hospital & ∑ parkwayhealth.cn Tel (010) 5192 4000.
Medical Facilities Guangzhou
Can-Am International Embassies in USA
Beijing Medical Center, 5th floor, Beijing 55 Anjia Loulu.
Hong Kong International Garden Tower, Garden Tel (010) 8531 4000.
Medical Clinic, Hotel, 368 Huanshi Dong Australia
9th floor, Lu. Tel (020) 8386 6988. 21 Dongzhi Men Travel Health
Office Tower, ∑ canamhealthcare. Wai Dajie.
Hong Kong Macau com Tel (010) 5140 4111. Masta
Center, Swissotel, Tel 0870 606 2782.
2 Chaoyang Men Hong Kong Canada ∑ masta.org
Bei Dajie. Queen Elizabeth Hospital, 19 Dongzhi Men
Tel (010) 6553 2288. 30 Gascoigne Rd, Yau Ma Wai Dajie. MD Travel Health
∑ hkclinic.com Tei. Tel (0852) 2958 8888. Tel (010) 5139 4000. ∑ mdtravelhealth.com

606 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Sitting in the shade at the Botanical Gardens, Hangzhou, Zhejiang Stomach Upsets &
Diarrhea
Heat, Humidity & and travelers to Tibet and other
Pollution mountainous regions must be Usually caused by a change of
diet, water, and climate, diarrhea
During summer, it is hot all prepared for sudden changes is common among visitors.
Chinese food, which can be
across China. If you’re traveling in temperature. A waterproof quite oily and spicy, does require
some getting used to for many
during this time drink plenty of and windproof layer is vital in people. If the change of diet is
affecting you, stick to Western
fluids to prevent dehydration, cold conditions, as is adequate food and simple boiled food,
such as plain rice, until the
and increase your intake of salt warm clothing, including thick diarrhea subsides. Most
importantly, drink lots of fluids,
to compensate its loss through socks, boots, jacket, gloves, as diarrhea quickly leads to
dehydration – oral rehydration
sweating. Wear loose-fitting and most importantly, a hat. solution (ORS) is an effective
remedy. If you do not have any
cotton clothing and sandals, The symptoms of hypothermia ORS, stir half a teaspoon of salt
and three teaspoons of honey or
remember to bring a sunhat – shivering, dizziness, exhaus- sugar into a mug of boiled water.

and sunglasses, and use tion, and irrational behavior – To decrease your chances of
stomach upset, avoid raw salads,
plenty of sunscreen. are brought on by prolon- cut fruit, cold cuts, roadside
kabobs, fresh juice, and yogurt.
Most hotels, except the ged exposure to the cold. It is important to avoid drinking
tap water even in big cities, apart
very cheapest, have Be aware of fingers and from Hong Kong. Drink boiled
water, or bottled mineral water
rooms equipped with toes going white or after checking that the seal is
intact. Most international brands
air-conditioning, numb, the first indi- of carbonated drinks are widely
available. Although street food
and virtually all cations of frost can look tempting, it is safer to
abstain unless it is hot and
restaurants are air bite, and rub freshly cooked in front of you.

conditioned as them vigorously A good pharmacist can
recommend standard diarrhea
well. Prolonged A motorcyclist wrapped if they do. medication, such as Imodium,
though if the attack is severe,
exposure to the sun up against pollution it is best to consult a doctor.
A popular and effective Chinese
can cause heat First-aid Kit medicine for upset stomachs
stroke, a serious condition with is Huangliansu.

high body temperature, severe Organize a basic first-aid kit, SARS & Flu

headaches, and disorientation. which should include all In 2003, severe acute respiratory
syndrome (SARS) spread
To avoid heat rashes and personal medication, aspirin or throughout China and then
to Toronto, Canada. China
fungal infections caused by painkillers for fevers and minor managed to contain the disease
with a strict identification and
humidity, wear clean, loose aches and pains, tablets for quarantine program. Since
then, there have only been
clothes made of natural fibers, nausea and movement sickness, minor, localized outbreaks of
the disease. Another SARS
and open sandals. antiseptic cream for cuts and outbreak is unlikely, but
should one occur, do not
Many of China’s cities, including bites, an antifungal ointment, travel to the affected area.

Beijing, experience chronic levels Band-Aids, gauze and tensor Bird flu, or avian influenza, is
a serious problem in east Asia,
of atmospheric pollution. This bandages, a pair of scissors, but unlikely to affect travelers.
Do not visit any poultry farms,
aggravates chest infections, and insect repellent, and tweezers.

asthmatic travelers should always Also carry antihistamines for

carry their own medication. allergies, anti-diarrhea tablets,

water purification tablets,

Cold & Hypothermia disposable syringes, oral
rehydration solution, and a

Winter can be severe through thermometer. Taking a supply

most of north China. High- of antibiotics is a good idea.

altitude travel in particular can Most of these items are readily

expose you to extreme cold, available at Chinese pharmacies.

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION 607

may even want to bring your long period and likely to come
own disposable syringe for the into contact with animals. Do
doctor to use. Any procedure not have this vaccine, unless
using needles, such as tattooing advised by your doctor.
or ear-piercing, is best avoided.

Insect-borne Diseases

Water-borne Diseases Mosquitos are rife during

Visitors must be on their guard the summer in China. In

against dysentery. Bacillary the southern part of the

dysentery is accompanied country, mosquitos can carry a

by severe stomach pains, number of diseases. If you are

A food stall with a tempting but vomiting and fever, whereas visiting an area with a high risk

risky display amoebic dysentery has similar of malaria, take preventive anti-

symptoms but takes longer to malarial drugs before, during,

avoid birds at outdoor markets, manifest. Vaccination against and after your trip. Contact

and eat only poultry and Hepatitis A is advisable before MASTA (Medical Advisory

eggs that have been leaving home, especially if Services for Travellers Abroad)

thoroughly cooked. you plan to visit rural areas. and check the MD Travel

In 2009, China underwent Other water-borne diseases, Health website (see p605)

a mass vaccination such as cholera and for information on malaria

program against swine typhoid, can also be medication. Dengue fever

flu (H1N1) for at-risk prevented with vaccines. and Japanese B encephalitis

individuals (such as Schistosomiasis (bilharzia), are also carried by mosquitos.

young children and a disease caused by a To guard against mosquito

pregnant women). The water-borne parasitic bites, apply mosquito repellent,

World Health Organisation worm found in south and wear clothes that cover

(WHO) provides up-to- and central China, can as much of your arms and

date information on be avoided by not legs as possible.

serious diseases. If you swimming in fresh water.

develop symptoms of Bottled Drink bottled mineral Altitude Sickness
pneumonia or flu after mineral water water at all times, and

your trip, see your avoid ice cubes. A lack of sufficient oxygen at

physician immediately. altitudes higher than 8,000 ft

Sexually Transmitted & Rabies (2,500 m) can cause attacks of
Other Infectious Diseases Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
The deadly rabies virus is spread – severe headaches, dizziness,
via the bite of an infected and loss of appetite. If these

After years of denial, animal. If you are bitten, clean symptoms persist beyond 48

Chinese authorities have the bite with an antiseptic hours, you must descend to a

begun to publicly admit to the solution, and seek medical help lower altitude immediately and

alarming spread of HIV – the at once. Treatment involves a seek medical help. To avoid

virus that causes Acquired course of injections. A rabies altitude sickness ascend slowly,

Immune Deficiency Syndrome vaccine is only necessary if you drink plenty of fluids, and avoid

(AIDS) – via unprotected sex, are visiting high-risk areas for a alcohol and sedatives.

drug use, and infected blood

banks. Nonetheless, consider-

able ignorance about the

disease and its prevention

still exists in rural areas, and

most prostitutes working in

the cities are from rural China.

Long-term visitors to China are

screened for HIV infection.

Hepatitis B, also transmitted

through contact with infected

blood, is spread through sexual

contact, unsterilized needles,

tattoos, and shaves from road-

side barbers. However, it can

be prevented with a vaccine.

When visiting a clinic, ensure

that the doctor opens a new

syringe in front of you. You Trekking at high altitudes on Chomolungma (Mount Everest)

608 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Banking & Local Currency Changing Money

China provides a wide range of banking facilities and money Chinese currency is not widely
exchange services, which are available in large cities, interna- available internationally,
tional airports, major banks, and top-end hotels. Always though, increasingly, it can
keep some cash to hand for transport, restaurants, and be exchanged in Asian airports
purchases, as traveler’s checks and credit cards cannot and banks in major Asian cities,
be used everywhere, especially in rural areas. ATMs that as well as Hong Kong and
accept international cards are easy to find in all major cities. Macau. Within China, you can
Foreign banks like Citi, HSBC, and Standard Chartered are exchange currency at banks
expanding their branch networks in major Chinese cities. and international airports
and most decent hotels will
Banks & Banking Hours international cards; visit your change money for guests.
card issuer’s website for Most major currencies are
The Bank of China has the most locations. In cities, ATMs are accepted. All exchange
extensive network in the located in banks, shopping operations are linked to the
country. Several other major malls, five-star hotels and air- Bank of China, so rates do
banks operate nationwide, ports. Some ATMs also dispense not vary between them.
including the Industrial and cash against credit cards. Cash Keep exchange receipts so
Commercial Bank of China withdrawn from ATMs is subject that you can re-convert any
(ICBC), the China Construction to the same exchange rate as surplus renminbi before leaving
Bank, and China Merchants credit cards, and there may be China. The Chinese “black
Bank. Banks are normally open a limit to how much you can market” for exchanging foreign
9am–4:30pm or 5pm Monday withdraw per day. currency offers only marginally
to Friday, but there are better rates than banks. Dealing
variations between places, with the shady characters in-
and some banks are open volved is not worth the hassle
on Saturdays. All banks remain or risk, and you may end up
closed for the first three days with counterfeit renminbi.
of the Chinese New Year, with
reduced hours during other Hong Kong dollars are con-
Chinese holidays. vertible and available outside
the country. They are accepted
Automated Tellers Hong Kong & Shanghai Banking in Macau and most southern
Corporation (HSBC) ATMs Special Economic Zones.
Automated Teller Machines
(ATMs) that accept foreign cards Credit Cards
are common in all major cities
of mainland China, plus Hong Credit cards are widely accepted
Kong and Macau, so can be in upmarket restaurants, hotels,
relied upon for easy access to and high-street stores, but
cash. In more remote areas of always check before attempting
China, ATMs may not all accept to make a purchase that your
foreign card is accepted. The
accepted cards are MasterCard,
Visa, Japan Credit Bureau (JCB),
Diners Club, and American

DIRECTORY

Bank of China Shanghai Dajie, Dong Cheng Shanghai
39/F, Bank of China Tower, District, 100005. Citibank Tower,
Beijing 200 Yincheng Rd, Central, 33 Huayuanshiqiao Road,
Asia Pacific Building, Pudong, 200120. Shanghai Pudong, 200120.
8 Yabao Lu, Chaoyang HSBC Tower, 8 Century
District, 100020. Hong Kong Avenue, Pudong, 200120. American Express
1 Fuxing Men Nei 2A Des Voeux Road,
Dajie, 100818. Central. 24-hr ATMs Beijing
24–28 Carnarvon Road, Shanghai Center, Room 2101, China World
24-hr ATMs Tsim Sha Tsui. 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu. Tower One, China World
Arrivals Hall, Trade Center, 1 Jianguo
Capital Airport. Corner HSBC Citibank Men Wai Dajie, 100004.
of Sundongan Plaza,
Wangfujing Dajie. Beijing Beijing Shanghai
Corner of Oriental Plaza, Block A, Beijing COFCO 1/F Tower 1, Room 206, Retail Plaza,
1 Dongchang’an Jie. Plaza 8, Jianguo Men Nei Bright Chang An Building, Shanghai Center, 200040.
7 Jianguomennei Dajie.

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION 609

Express. Air tickets can be and even then, they will do 10 almost worthless fen. In
bought by credit card from the so reluctantly, as the process colloquial Chinese, jiao is called
Civil Aviation Administration is complicated. Avoid bringing mao, and yuan is kuai. The most
of China (CAAC) offices, but traveler’s checks if at all possible. common coins include 1 yuan,
train tickets have to be paid Keep the proof of purchase 5 jiao, and 1 jiao, while the bills
for in cash. Cash advances slips and a record of the serial in circulation are 1, 2, and 5 jiao,
can be made on credit cards numbers in case of loss or theft. and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100
at the Bank of China. Hold on to encashment slips, yuan. There are also some fen
so you can convert spare coins and notes, but this tiny
Traveler’s Checks renminbi to another currency denomination is rarely accepted.
before leaving the country. Try not to acquire too many
Traveler’s checks are safer to damaged notes, as they may be
carry than cash and offer a Currency difficult to get rid of. Counter-
better exchange rate, but you feiting is widespread, and shop-
will have to pay a commission. China’s currency is called yuan keepers regularly scrutinize large
In addition, they are very hard renminbi, literally People’s denominations. Hong Kong
to exchange; indeed, only the Currency. One yuan divides dollars divide into 100 cents, and
Bank of China will change them, into 10 jiao, which divides into Macanese patacas into 100 avos.

Bank Notes

The more recently minted bills have Mao Zedong
on one side and a well-known heritage sight on
the other. The older bills depict the traditional
dress of various ethnic minorities.

1-yuan note

5-yuan note

10-yuan note

20-yuan note

100-yuan note 50-yuan note
1 jiao 1 yuan
Coins 5 jiao

Chinese coins are not widely
circulated. There is a 1 yuan coin,
some jiao denominations, as
well as tiny and lightweight fen.

610 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Communications and Media blogs are carefully monitored
in China and often blocked.

China has an efficient postal network with a variety of Websites can only be accessed

services, including registered post and express mail. Tele- if the virtual private network
communication systems are reasonably advanced and is paid for.

international telephone calls can be made from all but the

cheapest hotels. The Internet is hugely popular, and cafés Postal Services

and bars with Wi-Fi access are widespread. The government, The postal service in China is,

however, polices the net, and websites that it considers for the most part, reliable,
controversial may be blocked. Foreign newspapers and and the domestic service is
magazines are sold in five-star hotel bookstores, and in reasonably fast. It takes less than
some supermarkets and bookshops. a day for mail to reach local
destinations, two or more days

to inland destinations, while the

international postal service

also be purchased for modest takes up to 10 days to send

prices (all have English menus) airmail and postcards overseas.

and there is a thriving second- Visitors can send mail by

hand market. Most international standard or registered post

mobile networks have “roaming” (guahaoxin), while EMS (Express

partnerships with Chinese Mail Service) is a reliable way to

phone companies, but it is a send packages and documents

good idea to check the call abroad and within the country.

rates before you travel. Main post offices are open

seven days a week, from 8am

Internet to 8pm, while smaller ones
usually close earlier or for

Personal computer ownership lunch, and remain shut on

is widespread in China, and the weekends. Large hotels

Internet cafés (wangba) have usually have post desks.

Wheelchair-accessible phone booth, Beijing almost become a thing Take your mail to the post

International & Local of the past. China has rapidly office, rather than dropping
Telephone Calls become a very wired nation; it in a mailbox. It will help
most urbanites carry a smart- postal staff sort your letter if

Public telephones do exist in phone and laptop or iPad. you write the country’s name

China but are rarely used in the Many smart, modern cafés, in Chinese characters.

cities – China has the largest coffee shops, and bars offer Aerograms and packaging

number of mobile phone users free Wi-Fi and are frequented materials for parcels are

in the world. If you do use a by China’s laptop and smart- available at post offices.

public telephone, card phones phone fraternity. Similarly, free Reliable poste restante ser-

that accept a wide variety of broadband access for those vices are available all over China.

phonecards are available in with their own computers is You will need some form of

large cities, and are the commonplace in most hotels identification – preferably your

cheapest way of making calls. of a reasonable standard, as passport – to retrieve your mail.

IC (Integrated Circuit) cards well as in the majority of youth Envelopes should be addressed

come in denominations of ¥20, hostels. Overseas websites and with the surname underlined

¥50, and ¥100. They are largely

used for domestic calls. They

can also be used for interna-

tional calls, though the rates

are not very good. IP (Internet

Phone) cards come in

denominations of ¥100 and

offer the cheapest rates for

international calls.

If you buy a local SIM card you

can hook your GSM cellphone

up to the Chinese system in

minutes (North Americans need

unlocked tri- or quad-band

phones). Top-up cards are

available on almost every

street corner. Phones can Internet cafés are quickly being replaced by Wi-Fi access in regular cafés

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION 611

DIRECTORY

A choice of Chinese newspapers on display at a newsstand China Post
Tel 11185.
and in capitals. Chinese culture magazines, which offer ∑ ems.com.cn
addresses always start with the the best news on local events.
country, then the province, city, The Shanghai Daily also covers DHL Worldwide Express
street, house number, and name entertainment, dining options, Tel 800 810 8000
of recipient. The postcode and cultural events. A choice (toll free nationwide).
should be written at the end. of Chinese newspapers on ∑ dhl.com

display at a newsstand. Federal Express
Tel 800 988 1888
Courier Services (toll free nationwide).
∑ fedex.com.
Courier services are Television & Radio
General Post Office
widely available, The state-run television 134 Changjiang Lu, Dalian.
Near Bell Tower, Bei Dajie, Xi’an.
but less so in small network, Chinese Central
International Post Office
towns and remote Television (CCTV), has Jianguo Men Bei Dajie, Beijing.
Sichuan Bei Lu, Shanghai.
areas. While it is two English-language
UPS
preferable to send channels. CCTV9 is Tel 800 820 8388
(toll free nationwide).
large, bulky items by tolerable despite its ∑ ups.com

regular land, sea, or biased news and does costume dramas and tepid
soaps to domestic travel, wildlife
air cargo, important have some interesting programs, war films, and heavily
biased news programs.
letters, documents, programs. Some
There is also a wide Chinese-
and smaller parcels English programs are language radio network, but
only a few local English-
are best sent through Mail box, Beijing also broadcast on language programs. You will
need a shortwave radio to
a courier agency. CCTV4. Cable and pick up the BBC World Service,
Voice of America, and other
UPS, Federal Express, satellite television is available in international programs. The
BBC has closed its Chinese
DHL Worldwide Express, most international chain hotels, language World Service
broadcasts. English broadcasts
and China Post are inter- and you will find BBC News 24 are often subject to disruption.

national courier agencies or CNN everywhere. Chinese

with a wide network. programs range from historical

Newspapers & Magazines Useful Dialling Codes & Numbers

The China Daily is China’s official • To call China from abroad, • To make an international
English language newspaper. dial your international access call from China, dial 00, the
Its reputation for being dry code, China’s country code country code, the area code
remains, but its scope and (86), the area code omitting omitting any initial 0, and
coverage has greatly improved. the first 0, followed by the the local number.
The state-run Shanghai Daily local number.
offers good coverage of events • Country codes: UK 44;
in the city. Most international • Neither Hong Kong nor France 33; USA & Canada 1;
newspapers and magazines can Macau have area codes; they Australia 61; Ireland 353;
be found at tourist hotel book- only have country codes – New Zealand 64; South
stores and a small selection of 852 and 853 respectively. Africa 27; Japan 81.
supermarkets and bookstores.
Titles available include the • To make an inter-city call, • Dial 115 for international
International Herald Tribune, the dial the area code of that directory assistance.
Financial Times, Time, Newsweek, city and the local number.
and the Economist. In Beijing, For Beijing, dial 010; Shanghai, • Dial 114 for local directory
Shanghai, Tianjin, Guangzhou, 021; Guangzhou, 020; enquiries in Chinese; dial the
and other large cities, look out Chongqing, 023; area code followed by 114
for expat entertainment and Kunming 0871. for numbers in another town.

• To make a local call, omit
the area code.

612 SURVIVAL GUIDE

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Most visitors to China arrive by air, though especially for sleeping berths – can be rare
overland routes exist with train links to neigh- during the holiday periods. The intercity
boring Russia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, and high-speed rail network is extensive, and
Vietnam, and a bus link to Pakistan. It is also often a good substitute for flying. Bus
possible to arrive by sea; there are regular travel is improving, with buses covering
ferries from Japan and South Korea. Traveling the entire country, including a number of
within the country – even to remote areas – “luxury” buses that offer reasonable comfort.
is possible by air, train, road, and, on a Renting a car is not advised; foreigners are
few routes, by boat. China has a huge, rapidly restricted from driving in many areas and
expanding rail network, although tickets – the condition of many roads is very poor.

Arriving by Air China are also available via Air an international airport on Taipa
China, China Eastern, Aeroflot Island, although most visitors
All major international airlines (via Moscow), Malaysia Airlines arrive via boat from Hong Kong.
fly to China. Air China, the (via Kuala Lumpur), and Air Asia, Other international airports
country’s main international Jetstar, and Tiger Airways (from offering flights to overseas
carrier, has quite basic service Southeast Asia). destinations include Changchun
and facilities, but has a near- (Nagoya, Seoul, and Tokyo),
spotless safety record and its International Flights & Changsha (Seoul), Chengdu
flights, to most of the world’s Airports (Amsterdam, Bangkok,
major airports, are competitively Kathmandu, Singapore, and
priced. North American and China’s four main international Tokyo), Chongqing (Nagoya,
European carriers such as airports are at Hong Kong, Seoul, and Singapore), Dalian
United Airlines, British Airways, Beijing, Shanghai, and Guang- (Hiroshima, Munich, Sendai,
Virgin, Lufthansa, KLM, and Air zhou. The Chinese government Seoul, and Tokyo), Guangzhou
France, have regular flights to is investing a considerable (Kuala Lumpur, Los Angeles,
some, or all, of China’s three amount of money to provide Sydney, Singapore, Paris, and
main – and most sophisticated its international airports with other destinations), Guilin (Seoul
– airports at Hong Kong, state-of-the-art features. Beijing and Bangkok), Haikou (Bangkok,
Shanghai, and Beijing. Flights to Capital Airport has three Osaka, and Seoul), Hangzhou
the other parts of the Far East, impressive terminals – terminal (Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Seoul,
Australia, and New Zealand are three was designed by architect Tokyo, and Amsterdam), Harbin
offered by Singapore Airlines, Norman Foster and opened in (Seoul, Khabarovsk, and Vladi-
Japan Airlines, All Nippon time for the 2008 Olympics. In vostok), Kunming (Bangkok),
Airways, Korean Air, Qantas, 1999, Pudong Airport was built Lhasa (Kathmandu), Nanjing
Cathay Pacific, Air New Zealand, in Shanghai, making it the first (Bangkok, Seoul, Singapore, and
and others. Both Virgin and city in China to have two inter- Frankfurt), Qingdao (Osaka,
British Airways fly direct to national airports. Macau, too, has Seoul, and Tokyo), Shenyang
Shanghai. Cheap flights to (Osaka and Seoul), Shenzhen
(Bangkok, Manila, and Tokyo),
Tianjin (Nagoya and Seoul),
Xi’an (Nagoya, Pusan, Seoul,
and Tokyo), Xiamen (Manila,
Singapore, Osaka, and Tokyo),
Ürümqi (Almaty, Bishkek,
Islamabad, Moscow, and Novo-
sibirsk), and Wuhan (Seoul).

State-of-the-art terminal at Beijing Airport Air Fares

Air fares vary according to the
airline and the season. The peak
season for international flights
to China is between June and
September, when prices are
highest. Reasonably priced tickets
are also hard to find during the
holidays: Chinese New Year and
the first week of October. While

TRAVEL INFORMATION 613

flying via another country is Getting from the Airport DIRECTORY

cheaper than flying direct, Airports are linked to the city Airline Offices

traveling by a Chinese airline such by express train or by bus Air China
Tel 4008 100 999,
as Air China or China Eastern will routes which make several toll free nationwide.
∑ airchina.com.cn
be cheaper than international stops in town. Avoid the
Air France
airlines. Plenty of discount tickets overpriced taxi touts who try Tel 4008 808 808.
∑ airfrance.com.cn
are available for long-term travel, and force their services on
All Nippon Airways
which are valid for 12 months foreign visitors. Instead, head Tel 4008 828 888.
∑ ana.co.jp
with multiple stopovers and for the taxi rank where trips
British Airways
open dates. The best deals can into town are charged by Tel 400 881 0207.
∑ britishairways.com
usually be found online (try the meter. Four- and five-star
Cathay Pacific
www.ctrip.com and www.elong. hotels usually run shuttle buses Tel 400 888 6628.
∑ cathaypacific.com
com). Numerous travel agencies to their hotels and the Civil
Delta
across the world have websites, Aviation Administration of Tel 400 120 1364.
∑ delta.com
making it easy to compare prices. China (CAAC) runs buses
KLM
Tickets can be booked through to their office in town. Tel 4008 808 222,
Beijing & Shanghai.
ticket offices, travel agents, and ∑ klm.com

hotels, but travel agents – espec- Check-in Lufthansa
ially those away from hotels and Tel 4008 868 868.
∑ lufthansa.com
areas used by expats – tend to The check-in time for inter-
Qantas
offer the best prices. national flights is officially Tel 800 819 0089.
∑ qantas.com.au
two hours before departure.
United Airlines
On Arrival Most passengers are allowed Tel 400 883 4288.
40 pounds (20 kg) of ∑ united.com

On the airplane, visitors baggage, while first- Virgin Atlantic
Tel (021) 5353 4600, Shanghai.
are given a customs class passengers may ∑ virgin-atlantic.com

arrival form be allowed 66

to complete, pounds (30 kg).

combining Logo of China’s national One additional item
immigration, airline, Air China of hand luggage
customs, and health weighing up to

information, which has to 11 pounds (5 kg) is also usually

be submitted along with permitted. Baggage allowance

their passport at the airport depends on the destination,

immigration counter (between and travelers to North America

the plane and the arrivals hall). are generally allowed more

International airports luggage. If you are carrying

throughout China offer a limited heavy luggage, check with your

range of facilities, but you will airline to make sure that your

find foreign exchange counters, luggage is within the weight

ATMs, public telephones, left- limit, as excess baggage

luggage services, restaurants charges can be very high.

(though rather overpriced),

very limited shops, and toilets. Departure
Airport tourist information

centers in China are of varying Departure tax is included in

degrees of usefulness, and are the price of an airplane ticket

often manned by staff who and a fee is no longer payable

speak poor English. at airports.

Airport § Information Distance to City Center Average Journey Time
(010) 96158
Beijing Capital Airport 16 miles (25 km) northeast 40 mins (taxi)
(021) 5114 6655
Hongqiao Airport (021) 6834 5328 12 miles (19 km) west 30 mins (taxi)
(Shanghai) (0852) 2181 8888 28 miles (45 km) east 45 mins (taxi)
Pudong Airport (Shanghai) (0853) 2886 1111
20 miles (32 km) west 25 mins (train)
Hong Kong International
Airport 3 miles (5 km) northwest 15 mins (taxi)

Macau International Airport

614 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Domestic Air Travel baggage is 1 percent of the full
fare per 2.2 pounds (1 kg).
The arrival of cheap, high-speed train travel in China has led

Chinese airlines to step up the competition in terms of both Domestic Airports
the cost and comfort of their services, especially on the
popular Shanghai–Beijing route. The extensive domestic Air travel is becoming much
flight network involves numerous regional airlines flying to more convenient in China, with
over 150 airports. The main cities of Beijing, Nanjing, new airports being built and old
ones renovated and expanded.

Chengdu, Tianjin, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Dalian, It has been made a national

Guangzhou, and Xi’an are particularly well connected to priority to upgrade all city
airports throughout the country. Domestic air tickets are airports, and state-of-the-
straightforward to buy, so wait until you arrive in the country art facilities are now available
and then shop around for discounts. Flight cancellations and at Beijing Capital Airport,
delays due to bad weather are common, especially in winter Shanghai’s Pudong International
Airport and Hongqiao Airport,

and on less traveled routes in the more remote provinces, so Guangzhou Baiyun International
remember to reconfirm your ticket and the time of your flight. Airport, and the Hong Kong

International Airport at Chek

Domestic Airlines in the past, but service has Lap Kok. These modern airports
easily compare with the best in

A few private airlines operate improved greatly. the world. Airports in some

from Hong Kong and Macau, Air China’s international flying major tourist cities, such as Xi’an,

but most other airlines in China safety record is good, and now Hangzhou, Tianjin, Kunming,

are administered by the Civil almost all domestic airlines Chengdu and Nanjing also offer

Aviation Administration have fleets of new aircraft, up-to-date facilities. Many new

of China (CAAC). which means airports are being built in cities

There are currently safety records across China, including a second

about ten domestic have improved one in Beijing (in Daxing district,

carriers operating further. Older in Hebei province). A few private

in China. (The aircraft are some- airlines operate from Hong

initials in paren- Logo of Hainan Airlines times used in Kong and Macau, as well as from

theses are the China’s peripheral the mainland, including the

airline code or flight-number regions. Before you choose to low-cost carrier Spring Airlines

prefix.) Some of the domestic book with a particular airline, and the Hainan Island-based

airlines, such as China Southern you may wish to ask what kind Hainan Airlines, but most other

(CZ), and China Eastern (MU), of plane you will be boarding. airlines are administered by

also fly international routes. You The baggage allowance is the CAAC.

can buy domestic flights from 44 pounds (20 kg) for economy

these airlines overseas, but rates class and 66 pounds (30 kg) Getting to & from
are far better when booked in for first and business class. the Airport
China. Other domestic airlines You are also allowed up to 11

include Sichuan Airlines (3U), pounds (5 kg) of hand luggage, The distance from airports to

Shenzhen Airlines (4G), Hainan although airlines almost never city centers varies considerably

Airlines (HU), and weigh it. The charge for excess in China, so factor this into your

Xiamen Airlines (MF).

The CAAC is driving

service improvement

throughout the

industry, especially on

board, and changes are

noticeable from even

just a few years ago.

Unfortunately, frequent

delays and cancel-

lations still occur.

Announcements

are both in Chinese

and English if there

are foreign nationals

on board. In-flight

service can be brusque,

and foreign visitors

have felt neglected Flight attendants aboard Sichuan Airlines en route to Chengdu

TRAVEL INFORMATION 615

journey time. Also, always allow domestic flights is usually agent in the city you are
departing from. Business class
time for unforeseen delays en ¥50, and is paid at the time tickets cost 25 percent more
than economy, while first class
route. In many large cities of purchasing the ticket. tickets cost 60 percent more.
Children over the age of 12 are
and towns, you can reach the charged adult fares, while there
are special discounted fares for
airport or travel from the Tickets, Reservations younger children and infants.
airport into town on a CAAC & Cancellations
bus, which departs from and If you wish to return or
change your air ticket, you can
arrives at the CAAC office in Each domestic airline has get a refund as long as you
cancel at least 24 hours before
town. In larger cities, such as a booking office in most cities, departure, and return your
ticket to the same agent who
Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong as well as a reservation counter sold it to you. Even if you miss
your flight, you are entitled to
Kong, dedicated bus at each airport. a refund of 50 percent of the
full fare. You may be asked to
and train services Tickets can be buy travel insurance from your
ticketing agent. However, it is
run from town to booked through generally not worthwhile, as
the claim amount is very low.
the airport. Hong ticket offices, travel
DIRECTORY
Kong, Shanghai and agents, online via
Caac Offices
Beijing airports all www.ctrip.com,
∑ caac.gov.cn
have express train www.elong.com,
Beijing
links to the city. and www. Tel (010) 8778 6114.

Shanghai’s travelzen.com, Shanghai
Tel (021) 6835 7207.
Hongqiao or the travel
China Eastern Airlines
and Pudong desks of some
∑ ce-air.com
Airports are of the better Tel (010) 95530
(nationwide hotline).
connected to hotels – you
China Southern
the city’s metro should not be Airlines

system (line 2). charged a ∑ csair.com
Tel (010) 95539
For faster travel Road signs to the airport, Hong Kong booking fee. (nationwide hotline).

to and from Travel agents Dragonair

downtown, the high-speed tend to offer the best discounts. ∑ dragonair.com

Maglev train connects with Credit cards are accepted by Hong Kong
Tel (0852) 3193 3888.
Longyang Road metro station many travel agents and CAAC
Shanghai
(also line 2), near the Pudong offices. Visitors are required to Tel 400 888 6628
(nationwide in mainland China).
commercial/residential centre. show their passports when
Hainan Airlines
Taxis wait for passengers purchasing tickets. There is
Tel 0898 950712.
outside the arrivals hall. Make generally no shortage of tickets ∑ global.hnair.com

sure you head for the taxi rank unless you are flying between Sichuan Airlines

and avoid the numerous touts Hong Kong and a mainland Tel 4008 300 999.
∑ scal.com.cn
who will try to direct you destination, except in the run

towards their own car. Insist up to and during the Chinese

on the driver using the meter. New Year, and the week-long

Drivers rarely speak English so holiday periods after October 1,

have your destination written when it is advisable to book

in Chinese characters or keep well ahead.

the phone number of your A combined international

accommodation on hand and domestic timetable is

so the driver can call for published by CAAC in both

directions. If you have English and Chinese. These

booked accommodation, publications can be bought at

check whether your hotel most airline offices and CAAC

offers transport to and from outlets. Individual airlines also

the airport. print their own timetables,

available at booking offices

Check-in throughout the country. Flight
schedules are revised in April

For most domestic flights, and October each year.

the check-in time is at Ticket prices are calculated

least an hour and a half according to a one-way fare,

before departure, although and a return-ticket is simply

very few passengers arrive double the single fare.

that early. Make sure all your Discounts on official fares

bags are tagged, and do not are the norm, so it is best to

pack sharp objects, such as check with travel agents for

scissors, tweezers, nail files, or good deals. You are likely to

knitting needles, in your hand get a better deal on a flight if

luggage. The airport tax for you buy your ticket from an

616 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Traveling by Train Trains are of five types: those
with numbers prefixed by the
China is a vast country and, for many travelers, train journeys letter “T” or “K” are express (te
are an excellent way to see the countryside and get to know kuai) or fast (kuai) trains, and
the people. Trains are punctual, fast, and relatively safe, and those whose numbers have
are a reliable transport option. Since 2009, China has been no prefix are ordinary (pu kuai)
rolling out an extensive network of high-speed “bullet” trains trains, with frequent stops.
running on key intercity routes. Journey times are much “G” indicates direct high-speed
shorter, but ticket prices are higher. Trains are usually crowded trains, while “D” is used for
so it is advisable to either buy your ticket well in advance, or high-speed trains with stops.
ask your hotel or travel agent to arrange your bookings. Express trains have carriages of
all classes, and are the most
The Railway Network Platform food stall, Yinchuan train station modern and comfortable, with
few stops and superior services.
Since the cost of air travel is visitors will need patience All long-distance trains are
beyond the reach of many to deal with them. Trying equipped with sleepers.
Chinese, traveling by train is the to locate English-speaking staff
preferred alternative, especially on platforms is difficult, even in There is no smoking
over long distances. China has large cities such as Beijing and permitted within compart-
an efficient and extensive rail Shanghai. Telephoning stations ments, except in hard-seat
network that covers every with enquiries is pointless carriages, although most trains
province including Hainan unless you speak Chinese. allow passengers to smoke in
Island, connected to the the corridors. Most trains have
mainland by a special train Each train is identified by dining cars, and staff will
ferry, and mountainous Tibet, a train number, written on continuously push trolleys
connected to Qinghai by a new the outside of each carriage, through the carriages selling
railway line. Hong Kong is also that indicates its route and noodles, snacks, mineral water,
connected to mainland China destination. As a rule, incoming coffee, and newspapers. The
by rail. Depending on which and outgoing trains running noise level in carriages is often
type of ticket you purchase, between two destinations are very high, as music and
Chinese trains can be quite numbered sequentially. For announcements are regularly
comfortable, and there are example, train K79 travels broadcast over the speakers.
fast services running between from Shanghai to Kunming, China’s modern fleet of trains
most large towns and cities. while train K80 runs from are much cleaner than the old
Kunming to Shanghai. ones and have air conditioning.
Trains & Timetables The older trains can be very
dingy indeed; prepare yourself
Although trains in China are for sordid and filthy bathrooms.
commendably punctual, trying
to decipher a Chinese timetable Classes
is an impossible task, unless you
can read Chinese. Timetables Whereas high-speed trains have
are published in April and only two classes (economy and
October each year, and are first), regular Chinese trains have
available at railway station four. The most luxurious class is
ticket offices. A good online Soft Sleeper (ruan wo), with
timetable can be found at www. four comfortable berths per
travelchinaguide.com. Stations compartment. Offering more
can be frustrating places, and privacy, security, and cleanliness
than less-expensive classes, soft
sleeper tickets are very

Grand Soviet-style Taiyuan train station

TRAVEL INFORMATION 617

days before departure. On

short routes, you may be

able to secure a ticket just

before departure, but it is

safest to buy ahead.

Tickets on longer routes

sell out, especially those

for hard sleepers.

Train fares are calculated

according to the class and

the distance traveled. All

Modern glass and steel train station, Changzhou tickets are one-way, so

you will need to buy

pricey, and are not much quite unpleasant. Carriages another ticket for the return

cheaper than air tickets on are usually crowded and dirty, journey, although return tickets

certain routes. the speakers blare endlessly, are gradually being introduced

For long journeys lasting lights remain on at night, and for the high-speed intercity

over six hours, Hard Sleeper compartments are filled with routes. Joining the crowds at

(ying wo) is the best way to smoke. It is possible to upgrade station ticket counters can be

travel. Consequently, these (bu piao) once aboard the very trying, so unless the station

tickets are the hardest to pro- train, if there are seats available has a separate ticket office for

cure, and you’d be lucky to get in the class of your choice. foreign visitors, which is the

one on short notice. Hard Note that hard-seat tickets case at Beijing train station,

sleeper can be an economical bought on the same day consider asking your hotel,

choice when traveling between are usually unreserved. tourist office, or travel agent to

cities overnight, as it saves the Available only on certain buy tickets for you. Black-market

cost of a night in a hotel. routes, Soft Seat (ruan zuo) operators buy tickets in bulk,

Carriages consist of doorless carriages are much more and then re-sell them at a mark-

compartments, comfortable up outside railway stations. If

each with six and spacious you’re buying tickets on the

bunks. Tickets than hard black-market, check the dates

are of three seat, and seat of travel, destination, and class

types – upper Booking office sign, Zhenjiang train station, two people printed on the ticket carefully.
berth (shang side-by-side Before boarding the train,

pu), middle berth in numbered visitors wait in a hall before

(zhong pu), and lower berth (xia seats. Tickets cost about as filing past ticket-checkers to

pu), with a small price difference much as hard sleeper. the platform. Retain your ticket

between each. The lowest berth as inspectors will ask to see it

is the most expensive, while the Train Tickets, Fares again, just before you reach
top one is the cheapest. The & Reservations your destination. Note that
best berth, however, is the getting hold of tickets during

middle one. The upper bunk has When buying tickets, it is the Chinese New Year (Spring

little head-room and is closest essential to plan in advance. Festival), and the May and

to the speakers. During the day, On most routes, it is vital to buy October holiday periods

the lower bunk acts as seating tickets at least two or three days can be very difficult, and

and fills with fellow passengers. before you travel, although it is inadvisable to travel

Pillows, sheets, and blankets are tickets are available about five during these times.

provided by the railways, as are

two thermos flasks of boiling

water, which you can replenish

yourself from the massive boiler

at the end of each carriage.

Once aboard the train, the

inspector will exchange your

ticket for a metal token, and

return the ticket at the end of

the journey.

The cheapest class is Hard

Seat (ying zuo), which seats

three people side-by-side

on lightly cushioned seats.

Although fine for short journeys,

spending more than 4 hours in

a hard- seat carriage can be A uniformed guard minding a double-decker train, Dalian

618 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Traveling by Bus & Ferry common, slowing the journey

considerably. Drivers can be

China’s extensive network of road transport connects most cities, reckless and bus crashes are

as well as distant, rural areas. Bus travel is essential for reaching distressingly frequent. The noise
places that are not served by train. Tickets are both easier to level can be deafening, with
procure and are cheaper than train tickets, and there is a wider music blaring and the driver
choice of departure times, stops, and itineraries. The absence of leaning on the horn, so take
earplugs. Most buses are

a national operator, however, means that numerous competing choked with cigarette smoke.

businesses exist, coupled with minimal regulation. Furthermore, Ordinary buses (putong

driving is often rash, vehicles are poorly maintained, and road che) are the cheapest and
conditions can be bad, especially in the more remote areas. have basic wooden, or lightly
A small network of passenger ferries serves ports along padded, seats. These buses
China’s coastline and some of the inland waterways. stop often, so progress can
be slow. They provide little

space for baggage – there’s no

Long-distance Buses room under the seats and the
All cities and most large towns luggage racks are minuscule.

There are still many parts of have at least one long-distance Suitcases and backpacks are

China that are not accessible bus station (changtu qiche zhan) usually stacked next to the

by train, making it necessary to where state-run buses arrive driver, and you may be charged.

make the long haul by road. In and depart. Private bus firms Sleeper buses (wopu che)

Fujian, where rail services exist, may have set up a few speed through the

but are infuriatingly indirect, bus of their own bus night making

travel makes a lot of sense. In stations in town; often, few stops, so reach

Guizhou and Guangxi, the more one of these is located their destination in

interesting areas inhabited by next to the train station. good time. They

ethnic minorities are only Other stations may be usually have two tiers

accessible by bus and the located on the edges of bunks, or seats that

tropical area of Xishuangbanna of town – the North recline almost flat. The

in Yunnan is best explored by or East Bus Station Bus stop, older models can be
bus or taxi. You will also need to will usually serve Hong Kong quite dirty. Lower bunks
take a bus (unless you are flying) destinations to the (xia pu) cost more than

to reach Lijiang in northern north or east. Determining the upper bunks (shang pu), but

Yunnan and all of western which of these stations serves are worth the extra cost as you

Sichuan. Getting around the place you are trying to reach are less likely to be thrown from

Tibet will require long bus can be tricky, so you will need your bed when the driver takes

journeys, as will exploring the to ask around. Destinations are a corner at speed.

northwestern frontier of China displayed in Chinese characters Shorter routes are served by

if you want to get beyond the on the front of buses. rattling minibuses (xiao ba),

towns on the main train line. Long-distance buses vary which depart only when every

Numerous sights throughout enormously in quality, age, spare space has been filled by a

China are off rail lines. and comfort. You may find that paying passenger. Crammed to

Many smooth, wide highways several buses are running along the roof, minibus trips can be

now link some of the major the same route, so make sure quite uncomfortable.

cities, making some bus travel, you are sold a ticket for the Express buses (kuai che) are

particularly on the east coast, fastest, most comfortable bus, the best way to travel. Some

reasonably comfortable. In or the cheapest, if you prefer. In are luxury (hao hua), have air

some cases, the bus is now general, long-haul bus journeys conditioning, and enforce a

a faster way to reach your are taxing. Road conditions are no-smoking policy. Luggage

destination than the train. often poor and road works are is stowed in a hold, which is

fairly safe, given the few stops

that are made en route.

In certain parts of China – in

Gansu and Sichuan, for instance

– you may be required to

purchase insurance from the

People’s Insurance Company

of China (PICC) before being

allowed on a bus. Usually,

however, it is included in the

price of the ticket. This insurance

waives any responsibility of the

A basic long-distance bus (putong che) awaiting passengers, Qinghai government bus company

TRAVEL INFORMATION 619

A ferry on the Huangpu River, sailing through Shanghai rest of China, but services are
becoming less frequent.
should you be injured in a bus and Hangzhou, and Wuxi and Because of the prohibitively long
overland routes, ferries link the
crash; it does not cover you in Hangzhou (see p223). There booming northeastern city of
Dalian with Yantai and Tianjin.
the event of an accident. are no regular passenger Yantai and Weihai on the eastern
tip of Shandong peninsula are
ferry services up the Yangzi accessible from Shanghai,
Dalian, and Tianjin. Note that
Bus Tickets & Fares River available to foreign ferry timetables may change
visitors until Wuhan. frequently and services may
have been added or terminated.
Traveling by road is generally Popular coastal ferry routes
Several international sea
much cheaper than traveling include boats to Hainan Island routes link China to other
countries. From Japan, Kobe is
by train. Tickets are sold at from ports in the province connected to both Tianjin and
Shanghai on the east coast,
long-distance bus stations and, of Guangdong (including while ferries also link Osaka
with Shanghai. From South
unless you are hoping for a seat Guangzhou) and Beihai in Korea, the port of Inchon is
connected to the Chinese ports
at the front of a Guangxi. A of Dalian, Weihai, Qingdao,
Shanghai, and Tianjin.
luxury bus, do large number
Shanghai’s expanding
not need to of vessels ply international ferry terminal
welcomes increasing numbers
be bought in Promotional river cruise sign between Hong of cruise ships, with the fast-
developing cruise industry
advance. Tickets outside tourist office Kong and forming a key part of the city’s
plan to become an international
for private buses Macau, many shipping center. By 2016,
Shanghai expects to welcome
and minibuses are either of which are high-speed and 500 cruise ships annually,
bringing 1.2 million visitors
purchased on board the bus operate round the clock. Macau to the city. Costa and Royal
Caribbean already use the city
or from touts nearby. Main is also connected to ports in as an Asian base port, and
several other Asia-Pacific cruise
bus stations invariably have Guangdong, while Hong Kong routes – including to Russia,
Taiwan, and Southeast Asia –
computerized ticket offices, and is linked to Zhuhai and several are expected to open in the
next few years. Cruise
the queues are much shorter ports on the Pearl River delta. passengers arriving in Shanghai
should now be able to shop in
than those experienced at Within Hong Kong, a medley of duty-free stores at the port.

train stations. craft run to the outlying islands.

There are quite a few vessels

Ferries, Boats & connecting Hong Kong with the

Cruise Ships

A small network of coastal Tourist boats docked on the vast Qinghai Lake
routes survives in China, and
vessels still ply the Yangzi River,
but the increased convenience
of traveling by air, road, and
rail has reduced the variety
and frequency of sea- and
river-ferry sailings in China.

The most popular river route
is the trip along the Yangzi
between Chongqing and
Yichang, through the Three
Gorges (see pp358–60). An
overnight ferry service for
tourists runs along the Grand
Canal between Suzhou

620 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Local Transport in Cities which is refunded when you
return the card. You can easily
Transport options vary greatly between cities in China. Many add credit at MTR stations, ferry
of the largest metropolises have complex networks with piers, and convenience stores.
subway systems, which, in many cases, are in the process of
being extensively expanded. In Beijing and Shanghai, the The Mass Transit Railway (MTR)
subway (ditie) is the best way to get around, while in Hong currently has 11 lines, with three
Kong, the transport system is well-integrated, and subways, more under construction. The
trains, and buses are all convenient options. In most cities, fare increases with the distance
buses are slow and usually packed, but are very cheap. Taxis traveled, except on the Airport
(chuzu qiche) are a necessity for most travelers, and, despite Express Line where a higher fee
the language barrier and misunderstandings with drivers, is charged. If you buy a single
are the most convenient way to get around. Bicycles once ticket, insert it into the turnstile
ruled the roads of China’s cities and although not as popular and retrieve it on the other side.
today, they are still one of the best ways to explore. Hold on to your ticket as you will
need it to exit the system.
Beijing’s Subway range between ¥3 and ¥6, If you have an Octopus card,
simply touch the card to the
The subway system in Beijing depending on the number yellow reader on the turnstile.

underwent major development of stops traveled. Check the There are three overground
MTR lines that cover
in preparation for the 2008 map to determine your fare destinations in the New
Territories. East Rail was the
Olympic Games. The system has and then buy a ticket from the original Kowloon–Canton
railway and heads north into
been expanded and includes booth or machine. You can also mainland China. Do not go
past Sheung Shui (the second
an express rail line which buy ¥50 pre-paid tickets. Put last stop), if you do not have
the correct documentation
goes direct to Beijing your ticket into the slot to enter the mainland.

Capital Airport. at the barrier and the Buses & Trams

The subway is a swift gates will open. City bus networks are extensive
and cheap. The buses
way to get around this Retrieve your ticket on (gonggong qiche), however, are
almost always overcrowded –
spread-out city. The the other side of the so much so that you are unlikely
to be able to see out of the
system is easy to use, gate and hold on to it – windows. These conditions are
perfect for thieves, so stay well-
although walks you will need it at the aware of your belongings.
Consider using buses only for
between lines destination exit. short straight-forward journeys.
Avoid them if you are trying to
at interchange stations The much-touted get from one end of town to
the other – you are likely to get
can be long. All Maglev (magnetic stuck in traffic.

journeys cost ¥2. Buy levitation) runs Bus routes can be tricky to
navigate, particularly as most
your paper ticket at the Sign for Beijing between Pudong
Motor-rickshaw
ticket booth near the subway Airport and for hire, Harbin

entrance. Tickets are the eastern end of

undated and you should show Line 2 and reaches speeds of

your ticket to the attendants at 270 miles per hour (430 km/h).

the entrance to the platform. Check the times of departure.

The current ticketing system is

based on the distance traveled. Hong Kong’s MTR & KCR
Line 13 now has automated

ticket gates, as will any other Integrated and efficient,

lines that open up in the future. Hong Kong has the best public

transportation system in the

Shanghai’s Subway country. The city is easy to get
around using all of its forms of

The rapidly expanding Shanghai transport – MTR (subway and

subway system is clean and overground trains), buses, trams,

efficient, with the first line built and ferries – and most signage

in 1995. The 12 lines currently is in English. You can buy single

in operation are expected to tickets for your journeys, but

increase to a total of 22 by each type of transit requires a

2020. Lines 1 and 2 are most separate ticket. Alternatively,

useful to the tourist, with line you can buy an Octopus card,

2 connecting the city’s two an electronic card that allows

airports, Pudong and Honqqiao; you to hop on and off most of

the raised Line 3, or Pearl Line, the system. You can buy these

travels the western outskirts of for a minimum of HK$150

the city. Fares for Lines 1 and 2 including a HK$50 deposit,

TRAVEL INFORMATION 621

Fares vary slightly from city good way to traverse the city,

to city, the most expensive but you may find the traffic

being Beijing and Shanghai, intimidating. Hangzhou has

but taxis generally offer both the best bike hire system, with

good value and convenience. dozens of kiosks to hire official

In many cities, different public bicycles from. Make sure

models of cars will have that any bike you rent has a

different rates. Tipping the lock. Handy bike stands are

driver is not necessary. found in big cities and have an

Taxis can also be hired for attendant to watch the bikes

the day – a convenient way for a nominal fee.

to see sights just out of town.

Agree on a price beforehand, Road Names
and make sure your driver is

clear on the extent of your Main streets, avenues, and

Bicycles in Beijing – the traditional way to itinerary. In Tibet, you may find thoroughfares are often divided

get around the city that hiring a jeep and driver is into different sections based

the only way to get to some on the four cardinal points.

routes and destinations are sights. It is customary to pay For example, Zhongshan Lu

listed in Chinese only. Hong for the driver’s lunch. (Zhongshan Road) may be

Kong has the most comfortable In smaller towns, motorcycle divided into Zhongshan Xi Lu

and easy to use bus system, rickshaws (sanlun motuoche) (West Road) and Zhongshan

although traffic can be as bad and bicycle rickshaws (sanlun Dong Lu (East Road). Similarly,

here as anywhere else. Hong che) are a convenient and you may also see Zhongshan

Kong also has an old tram line entertaining way to get Bei Lu (North Road) and

that runs from Sheung Wan to around town. Do not take Zhongshan Nan Lu (South

Causeway Bay on Hong Kong these in major cities – they Road). Apart from lu (road),

Island. Dalian has a few trams cost about the same as a taxi other key words are jie (street),

as well. Maps of bus and and frequently target hutong and xiang (lane or

tram routes are widely tourists for historic alleyway). Road names

available, substantial in large cities such as Beijing

especially rip-offs. may also display the pinyin

in and In some translation, but in smaller towns

around A city taxi in Beijing small towns, and remote destinations, only

train stations. they are the only Chinese is used. The use of

form of transport. Agree on the pinyin is being phased out and

Taxis fare before climbing aboard. in many large cities signage
Motorcycle taxis are a very will be in Chinese script

The best way to get about quick way to cover longer and English only.

in cities that don’t have subway distances, although

systems is by taxi (chuzu qiche). they are really only

Taxis are found in large numbers practical if you are

in all Chinese cities – often traveling alone with

congregating near train stations little luggage. Insist

– and can be hailed easily in the on the driver

street. Guests staying at hotels providing you

can also ask the reception desk with a helmet.

to summon a taxi. When

arriving at airports, avoid the Cycling
touts who immediately

surround you, and head instead Hiring a bicycle is

to the taxi rank outside where one of the best ways

you are less likely to be over- to explore towns and

charged. Also, make sure the their environs. Bike

driver uses the meter (biao) or lanes are common

negotiate a flat rate in advance. (although not always

Taxis rarely have rear seat belts respected by drivers)

(anquan dai), so sit in front if and roadside repair

you are traveling alone. Few stalls are everywhere.

taxi drivers speak English, In Beijing, the bicycle

so it is advisable to have your is a major mode of

destination written down in transport. With its

Chinese, which the staff at your spread-out sights

hotel will gladly do for you. and flat terrain it is a Taxis and buses on a busy street in the center of Macau

622 GENERAL INDEX

General Index Amur river 478 Arts and crafts (cont.)
An Lushan, General 63 modern arts 46–7
Page numbers in bold type refer An Lushan rebellion 63, 64 porcelain 260–61
to main entries. Ancient Observatory (Beijing) Shanghai 206, 207
silk 214–15
5-Level Double Ship Lock (Three 100–101 traditional arts 44–5
Gorges Dam) 275 Ancient Pottery Factory What to Buy in China 589

18 September Museum (Jingdezhen) 261 Arts venues
(Shenyang) 444 Andi emperor 58 Beijing 119
Anhui province 183, 209 Hong Kong 338, 339
24 Bends (Tiger Leaping Gorge)
400 food and drink 187 Ashoka 176
hotels 560 Astana 509
108 Dagobas (Ningxia) 481 Huizhou architecture 241 Astrology 49
10,000 Buddhas Monastery map 209 Astronomy, Ancient Observatory
restaurants 577
(Hong Kong) 326 Ani Tsankhung Nunnery (Lhasa) (Beijing) 100–101
533 Australian Embassy 605
A Animals Automated teller machines
astrology 49
Aba Grasslands 349 bites 607 (ATMs) 586, 608
Aba Khoja Mausoleum (Kashgar) see also Wildlife; Zoos Autumn in China 52–3
Anjue Lamasery (Kangding) 377 Avian influenza 607
17, 516–17 Annoyances 603 Ayurbarwada 58
Abahai 68, 438, 444 Anping Lu (Shantou) 302
Anshun 406 B
tomb of 445 batik 406
Abdur Rahman 495 Antique Carpets (Beijing) 118, Ba culture 349
Abercrombie and Kent 593, 595 119 Chongqing 356
Aberdeen 328 Antiques shops 587 Sanxingdui Museum 366
Aberdeen, Earl of 328 Beijing 118, 119 tombs 358
Abu Waqas 305, 307 customs information 599
ACOR 557 Hong Kong and Macau 336, Badaguan (Qingdao) 153
Acrobats 119 337 Badaling 12, 114
Acupressure 38 Shanghai 206, 207 Baggage allowances 613
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) Anyang 78, 147, 158 Bai Causeway (Hangzhou) 249
Aquariums Bai Juyi 34, 249
607 Beijing Zoo 105 Bai Long Dong (Wu Da Lian Chi)
Admission charges 600 Sun Asia Ocean World (Dalian)
Afghanistan 495 450–51 460
Agriculture Archeology Bai people 30, 349, 379
Peking Man site 117
desertification 469 Race for the Silk Road Oases Dali 392
inventions 42 499 hanging coffins 360
rice 286–7 Architecture 40–41 Nanzhao Kingdom 394
tea plantations 299 Beijing’s courtyard houses 97 Bai Ta (Anshun) 406
Aidi emperor (Tang dynasty) 58 Dong architecture 427 Bai Ta (Fuzhou) 298
Aidi emperor (Western Han earthen dwellings of Yongding Bai Ta (Hohhot) 475
dynasty) 58 296 Bailuzhou Park (Nanjing) 228
AIDS 607 Huizhou architecture 241 Baima Si (Luoyang) 158
Aini people 388, 390, 391 pagodas 171 Baima Ta (Dunhuang) 498
Air China 613 Army Day 52, 53 Baisha 14, 398
Air France 613 Arrow Tower (Jian Lou, Beijing) 90 Baishui Tai 401
Air pollution 24, 606 Street-by-Street map 88 Baisikou Shuang Ta 480
Air travel 612–15 Arrow Towers (Forbidden City) 95 Baisui Gong (Jiuhua Shan) 240
advance booking 598 Arrow War (1856-58) 69 Baita Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou)
domestic airports 614 Art Museum (Guangzhou) 307 488
international airports 612, 613 Arts and crafts Baiyi Si (Lanzhou) 489
Ake people 390–91 bamboo 417 Baiyu Hill (Dalian) 451
Alcohol 603 calligraphy 225 Ballet 47
Alexander the Great 495 cave paintings of Dunhuang Bamboo 27, 417
All Nippon Airways 613 500–501 Bangchuidao Scenic Area 450
Alligators 239 jade 519 Bank of China 608
Altai 512 lacquerware 298 Bank of China (Hong Kong) 316
Altitude sickness 607 Miao people 412–13 Bank of China (Shanghai) 193
Altyn Mosque (Yarkand) 519 Bank notes 609
Alvares, Jorge 333 Banking 608–9
Aman Isa Khan, tomb of 519 Banla Village 388
Ambulances 605 Banquets 568–9
Amdo 483 Banruo Temple (Changchun) 452
American Express 608
Amethyst 224
Amherst, Lord 69
Amoy see Xiamen

GENERAL INDEX 623

Baoding Shan 363 Beijing (cont.) Big Dragon Pool Falls (Yandang
carvings of Dazu 362–3 hospitals 605 Shan) 253
hotels 558
Baofeng Hu (Wulingyuan) 271 map 86–7 Bijia Shan 446
Baoguang Si 366 in Ming dynasty 67 Bike China Adventures 594,
Baoguo Si (Emei Shan) 368 Ming Tombs: Chang Ling
Baoguo Si (Ningbo) 252 110–11 595
Baopu Daoist Temple (Hangzhou) Olympic Games 592 Bilian Feng (Yangshuo) 424
Public Security Bureau (PSB) Billion (Hong Kong) 338, 339
246 599 Bing Di emperor 59
Baoshu Ta (Hangzhou) 246 restaurants 572–3 Bingling Si 464, 490
Baotou 476 shopping 118–19 Bingyu Valley 443, 447
“Barbarians” 78 skiing 593 Binyang San Dong (Longmen
Bargaining 586, 603 Street Finder 120–25
Barkhor (Lhasa) 534–5 subway 620 Caves) 161
The Barra (Macau) 13, 333 Summer Palace 12, 106–8 Bird flu 607
Bars 591 Temple of Heaven 12, 102–3 Birds
Tian’an Men Square: Street-by-
Beijing 119 Street map 88–9 Bird and Flower Market
Hong Kong 338, 339 Two Days in Beijing 10, 12 (Kunming) 380
Shanghai 207 Bird Market (Hong Kong) 323
Basketball 592, 595 Beijing Botanical Gardens 109 Cao Hai 408
Batik, Anshun 406 Beijing Capital Museum 101 cormorant fishing 424
Bayi Park (Nanchang) 256 Beijing Club (Hong Kong) 338, cranes 409
Bayi Square (Nanchang) 256 Edward Youde Aviary (Hong
Bazaar (Turpan) 508 339 Kong) 339
Bazi Qiao (Shaoxing) 252 Beijing Curio City 118, 119 Mai Po Marshes 327
Beaches 592–3 Beijing Natural History Museum Ocean Park (Hong Kong) 329
Beidaihe 134 Qinghai Hu 503
Dalian 450 101 specialist holidays 595
Deep Water and Repulse Bays Beijing and the North 75–177 Yingxiong Shan (Gulangyu
329 Island) 293
Gangzaihou Beach (Gulangyu food and drink 82–3 Zhalong Nature Reserve 458
Island) 293 Great Wall of China 112–14 see also Wildlife
Hainan Island 311 Hebei, Tianjin and Shanxi 127– Birthday of Tin Hau (Hong Kong)
Qian Bu Sha (Putuo Shan) 255 45 339
Qingdao 153 hotels 558–9 Bishan Si (Wutai Shan) 142
Sai Kung Town and Peninsula map 76–7 Bishu Shanzhuang (Chengde)
Beaches (Hong Kong) 326–7 Portrait of Beijing and the North 129
Stanley 329 78–9 Bita Hai 401
Weihai 155 restaurants 572–5 Bixia Si (Tai Shan) 150
Yantai 154 Shaanxi 167–77 Biyun Temple (Beijing) 109
Yin Tan (Silver Beach) 431 Shandong and Henan 147–65 Black Dragon Pool (Lijiang) 386–7,
Beer Beijing Opera 80–81, 119, 590 398
Tsingtao 152 Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall Black Dragon Pool (Lu Shan) 259
What to Drink in China 571 90–91 Black Tiger Spring (Jinan) 148
Begging 603 Beijing Silk Store 118, 119 Bo Gu 263
Bei river 460 Beijing Zoo 105 Bo Hai (Bo Sea) 78
Bei Shan 363 Beishan Park (Jilin) 453 Bo Ya 273
Bei Shan Si (Xining) 502 Beisi Ta (Suzhou) 210 Boats
Beidaihe 134, 592 Beiyue Si (Yulong) 398 ferries 619
hotels 558 Bell Tower (Beijing) 98 Grand Canal 223
restaurants 573 Bell Tower (Nanjing) 232–3 Li river cruise 422–3
Beigu Shan (Zhenjiang) 224 Bell Tower (Pingyao) 145 Yangzi cruise 358–60
Beihai 431, 592 Bell Tower (Wuwei) 494 Bodhidarma
Beihai Park (Beijing) 96 Bell Tower (Xi’an) 169 Baoguang Si 366
Beijing 79, 85–125 Bendiwan 400 Forest of Stelae Museum (Xi’an)
air travel 613, 615 Bertolucci, Bernardo 437, 452 168
banks 608 Bespoke Beijing 593 Guangzhou 304, 305
city walls 90 Bethune, Norman 136 Shaoguan 309
climate 55 Bezeklik Caves 499, 509 Shaolin Boxing 164, 165
courtyard houses 97 Bhrikuti, Princess 532, 536, Bon religion 524, 526
embassies 605 537 Bonbon (Shanghai) 207
entertainment 118–19 Bicycles 594, 621 Book shops, Beijing 118, 119
Forbidden City 12, 40, 92–5, Big Bamboo (Shanghai) 207 Borjijit, Empress 445
438–9 Big Buddha (Lantau Island) 13, Boutiques 587
331 Bouyi people 405, 406

624 GENERAL INDEX

Boxer Rebellion (1900) 69, 439 Buddhism (cont.) Cathay Pacific 613
Drum Tower (Beijing) 98 Shaolin Temple 164 Cathedrals
Empress Cixi and 107 Thousand Buddha Cliffs
Qian Men (Beijing) 90 (Nanjing) 237 Our Lady of China (Shanghai)
South Cathedral (Beijing) 91 Thousand Buddha Mountain 205
Southeast Corner Watchtower (Jinan) 148 Ruinas de São Paulo (Macau)
(Beijing) 101 Tianlong Shan Grottoes 13, 332
Summer Palace (Beijing) 106 (Taiyuan) 143 South Cathedral (Beijing) 91
Tiantai Buddhist sect 253 Wang Hai Lou Cathedral
Boxing Cat Brewery (Shanghai) 207 Water Curtain Thousand (Tianjin) 135
Bozhou 239 Buddha Caves (Luomen) 486 Xi Kai Cathedral (Tianjin) 135
Braun, Otto 416 Xumi Shan Caves 480 Xujiahui Catholic Cathedral
Britain Yuantong Si (Kunming) 380 (Shanghai) 205
Yungang Caves 138–9 see also Churches
The “Great Game” 495, 547 see also Tibetan Buddhism Catholic Church
in Hong Kong 313 Catholic Church (Jilin) 453
invasion of Tibet 547 Budget hotels 554 Our Lady of Lourdes (Shamian
Opium Wars 69, 284 Bulang Shan 391 Island) 307
and Shanghai 189 Bund (Shanghai) 12, 182, 189, Sacred Heart Church
tea trade 299 (Guangzhou) 304
British Airways 613 192–3, 201, 203 South Cathedral (Beijing) 91
Bronze Age 57 Bunu people 403 Xujiahui Catholic Cathedral
Bronze Pavilion (Summer Palace, Burma see Myanmar (Shanghai) 205
Beijing) 106, 108 Burma Road 383 Causeway Bay (Hong Kong) 317
Bubang Wangtiansh Aerial Buses 618–19 Caves
Walkway (Mengla) 390 Bei Shan 363
Buddha 36, 37 airport 613, 614–15 Bezeklik Caves 499, 509
Buddha’s Birthday 51 city buses 620–21 Bingling Si 490
Buddhism 36, 37, 491 long-distance 618–19 carvings of Dazu 362–3
108 Dagobas 481 Business cards 602 cave paintings of Dunhuang 10,
10,000 Buddhas Monastery Bykal, Lake 441 17, 491, 500–501
(Hong Kong) 326 Caves of the Three Immortals
Bezeklik Caves 509, 526–7 C (Kashgar) 515
Bingling Si 490 Dragon Gate Grotto (Western
Buddhist Grottoes (Gongyi) 164 C Bar (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Hills) 383
carvings of Dazu 362–3 Cafés, Internet 610 Dripping Water Cave (Shao
cave paintings of Dunhuang Cai Lun 32 Shan) 266
500–501 Calendar 50, 601 Guangxi 595
Caves of the Three Immortals Calligraphy 33, 225 Huanglong Dong (Wulingyuan)
(Kashgar) 515 271
Chan (Zen) Buddhism 165, 364, What to Buy in China 588 Kamikaze Caves (Lamma Island)
491 Camera shops, Hong Kong and 330
Da Zhao (Hohhot) 475 Karst Caves (Yixing County) 224
Dafo (Le Shan) 11, 15, 370–73 Macau 336, 337 karst landscape 418–19
Eight Auspicious Symbols 546 Camões, Luis Vaz de 332 Longgong Dong 406–7
Emei Shan 368–9 Camping 554–5 Longmen Caves 147, 160–63
Famen Temple (Xi’an) 176 Ludi Yan (Guilin) 421
Fayuan Temple (Beijing) 104 trekking and camping holidays Mahao Cave Tombs (Le Shan)
Fulu Buddhist Nunnery 595 371
(Sanjiang) 426 Canadian Embassy 605 Maiji Shan 10, 16, 484–5
Great Bell Temple (Beijing) 109 Cang Jie 32 Mogao Caves 17, 467, 499, 501
Han dynasty 60, 61 Cang Xin 46 Shizi Yan 309
Hualin Si (Guangzhou) 304 Canglang Ting (Suzhou) 216–17 Thousand Buddha Caves (Kizil)
Jade Buddha Temple Cangyan Shan 136 17, 513
(Shanghai) 202 Canidrome (Macau) 13, 338, 339 Tianlong Shan Grottoes
Jing’an Temple (Shanghai) 202 Canton see Guangzhou (Taiyuan) 143
Jiuhua Shan 240 Canton TV Tower (Pudong) 46 Tianxing 407
Labrang Monastery 486, 487 Cantonese cuisine 288 Water Curtain Thousand
Lama Temple (Beijing) 98–9 Cantonese language 285 Buddha Caves (Luomen) 486
Liu Rong Si (Guangzhou) 305 Cao Hai 403, 408 Wu Da Lian Chi 460
Longmen Caves 160–63 Cao shu calligraphy 33 Xumi Shan Caves 473, 480
Luohan Si (Chongqing) 356 Cao Xueqin 96 Yangshuo 424–5, 595
Maiji Shan 16, 484–5 Card phones 610 Yungang Caves 137, 138–9
Manfeilong Ta 391 Cards, business 602 Zhijin Dong 407
Manjusri 141 Carpets Caving 595
Puning Si (Chengde) 130–31 Beijing shops 118, 119 Cemeteries see Tombs and
Putuo Shan 254–5 Gang Gyen Carpet Factory cemeteries
Qixia Si (Nanjing) 237 (Shigatse) 548
Carvings
Bingling Si 490
Dazu 362–3
Maiji Shan 16, 484–5

GENERAL INDEX 625

Central China 179–279 Chen Yi, statue of (Shanghai) 193 Chongxi Ta (Zhaoqing) 308
food and drink 186–7 Chengde 127, 128–31 Chongyang (Double-ninth)
hotels 559–61
Hunan and Hubei 265–79 hotels 558 Festival 53
Jiangsu and Anhui 209–43 Puning Si 129, 130–31 Chongzhen emperor 58
map 180–81 restaurants 573
peoples 31 Chengdi emperor 58 Forbidden City 94
Portrait of Central China 182–3 Chengdu 15, 349, 355, 364–5 Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 96
restaurants 575–9 climate 54 Chongzheng Hall (Shenyang) 444
Shanghai 189–207 hotels 562 Chopsticks 569
traditional Chinese gardens map 365 Christianity
184–5 restaurants 582–3 Nestorian Christianity 168
Zhejiang and Jiangxi 245–63 Chenghua emperor 58 see also Cathedrals; Churches
Chenghuang Miao (Zhengzhou) Christmas Day 53
Central Highlands (Hainan Island) 158 Chuandixia 117
310 Chengyang 427 Churches
Cheung Ah Tse 320–21 Catholic Church (Jilin) 453
Central, Hong Kong 13, 316 Cheung Chau Bun Festival 339 Church of St. Sofia (Harbin) 456
Central Plaza (Hong Kong) 316 Cheung Chau Island 13, 330 Mu’en Tang (Shanghai) 194
Central-Mid-levels Escalator Cheung Po-Tsai 330 Our Lady of Lourdes (Shamian
Cheung Sha 331 Island) 307
(Hong Kong) 320 Chiang Kai-shek 204, 205, 303, Protestant Church (Qingdao)
Ceramics 310 152
Chongqing 357 Russian Orthodox Church
Ancient Pottery Factory flees to Taiwan 72–3 (Shanghai) 202
(Jingdezhen) 261 and Guandong Communist Sacred Heart Church
Ceramic History Exposition uprising 304 (Guangzhou) 304
(Jingdezhen) 261 Jinggang Shan 263 St. Joseph’s Church (Beijing) 100
Ciqi Kou (Chongqing) 357 Linggu Pagoda (Nanjing) 235, St. Michael’s Church (Qingdao)
Foshan 308 236 152
inventions 42, 43 Lu Shan 258, 259 see also Cathedrals
porcelain 43, 260–61 Nanjing 183, 229 Ci’an, Empress 115
Porcelain Museum Children 601 Cinema see Film
(Jingdezhen) 261 entertainment in Hong Kong Ciping 263
Terracotta Army 60, 79, 167, and Macau 338–9 Ciqi Kou (Chongqing) 357
174–5 in hotels 557 Circuses 590–91
traditional arts 44 Children’s Day 51 Cishi Ta (Wulingyuan) 267
What to Buy in China 588 Children’s Palace (Shanghai) 200 Citibank 608
Chain hotels 557 China Eastern Airlines 615 CITIC Minsk World (Shenzhen)
Chan, Jackie 47, 165 China House Museum (Tianjin) 302
Chan (W.W.) & Sons Tailor Ltd 135 City God Temple (Shanghai) 198
(Shanghai) 206, 207 China Information Travel Service City Museum (Kunming) 381
Chan (Zen) Buddhism 165, 364, (CITS) 600 City walls 41
491 China National Museum (Beijing), Chaozhou 302
Chang Ling (Beijing) 110–11 Street-by-Street map 89 Nanjing 230–31
Chang Tang 528, 531 China Northwest Airlines 615 Pingyao 41, 144
Chang’an see Xi’an China Southern Airlines 615 Xi’an 168
Changbai Shan 443, 454–5 China Super League 592, 595 Zhaoqing 308
Changbai Waterfall 454 Chinese Medicine Museum Citygate Outlets (Hong Kong)
Changchun 437, 443, 452 (Hangzhou) 246 337
restaurants 583 Chinese New Year 48, 53, 339 Civil Aviation Administration of
Changchun Guan (Wuhan) 272 Chinnery, George 332 China (CAAC) 614, 615
Changjiao Miao people 412 Chishui 416 Civil War 72
Changsha 265, 266 Chong’an 415 Cixi
hotels 560 Chongdi emperor 58 Beijing Opera 80
restaurants 578–9 Chongqing 15, 349, 355, 356–7 Boxer Rebellion 439
Changzhou 224 hotels 562 Empress Dowager 69, 107, 439
Chaotian Gong (Nanjing) 229 map 355, 357 Summer Palace (Beijing) 106–8
Chaotian Men (Chongqing) 11, pollution of Yangzi river 274 tomb of 115
15, 356 restaurants 582 Xi’an 170
Chaoyang Theater (Beijing) 119 A Week in Sichuan and Climate 54–5
Chaozhou 302 Chongqing 11, 15 cold weather 606
food and drink 289 Chongqing Museum heat and humidity 606
Chapel of the Three Ages (Lhasa) (Chongqing) 356 when to go 598
540 Chongqing Si (Lanzhou) 489 Climbing 594–5
Charles V, King of France 471 Chongshan Si (Taiyuan) 79, 143 Clothes
Chatwin, Bruce 398 Chongwu 291, 297 in cold weather 606
Chen clan 306 etiquette 602
Chen Jia Ci (Guangzhou) 306
Chen Kaige 47

626 GENERAL INDEX

Clothes (cont.) Corban Festival 53 Dai people 30, 347, 389
Hong Kong and Macau shops Cormorant fishing 424 Dai Minority Park 388
337 County Magistrates Residence Xishuangbanna 389, 390
in hot weather 606
Shanghai shops 206, 207 (Pingyao) 144 Daizong emperor 58
what to take 598 Courier services 611 Dakong Shan 395
women travelers 604 Courtyard houses, Beijing 97 Dalai Hu 478
Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) 104 Dalai Lamas 524
Cloud Dispelling Gate (Summer Coward, Noel 317
Palace, Beijing) 108 Craft shops Beihai Park (Beijing) 96
exile in India 525
Le Club at La Maison (Shanghai) Beijing 118, 119 Ganden Palace (Lhasa) 540
207 Hong Kong and Macau 336–7 Lukhang (Lhasa) 532
Crafts see Arts and crafts Norbulingka (Lhasa) 533
Clubs Cranes (birds) 409 Pelkor Chode Monastery
Beijing 119 Zhalong Nature Reserve 458 (Gyantse) 547
Hong Kong 338, 339 Credit cards 586, 608–9 Potala Palace (Lhasa) 538–9
Shanghai 207 Crescent Moon Lake 466 Samye Monastery 545
Crime 604 Summer Palace (Lhasa) 533
Coasts, landscape and wildlife 29 Crowne Plaza 557 Tashilunpo Monastery
Coins 609 Cruises 367 (Shigatse) 548–9
Cold weather 606 Li river cruise 422–3 Tibetan Oracle 540–41
Coleridge, Samuel Taylor 478 Yangzi cruise 358–60 Yellow Hat Sect 140
Communications 610–11 Crystal Palace (Wu Da Lian Chi) Dali 10, 14, 349, 379, 392–4
Communist Party 22–3, 72 460 hotels 562
Cui Hu Gongyuan (Kunming) 14, map 393
cult of Mao 268–9 380 pagodas 171, 392–3
Cultural Revolution 70–71 Cui Jian 47 restaurants 582
festivals 50, 52 Cuiheng 308 Dali Museum (Dali) 392
and Guandong Communist Cuiwei Yuan (Guiyang) 404 Dali Sutra Pillar (Kunming) 381
uprising 304 Cultural Centre (Hong Kong) 338, Dalian 437, 443, 450–51
Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) 339 hotels 562
357 Cultural Revolution 70–71, 73 map 451
Jinggang Shan 263 arts and 46 Public Security Bureau (PSB)
and literature 35 Chuandixia 117 599
Long March 72, 262–3, 377 cult of Mao 268–9 restaurants 583–4
Longhua Cemetery of Martyrs and literature 35 Daluo 391
(Shanghai) 205 and religion 36 Damenglong 391
People’s Republic of China Shanghai 183 Daming Hu (Jinan) 148
founded 72–3 in Tibet 525 Daming Si (Yangzhou) 226
Shanghai 183 Culture Club (Macau) 337 Dance, traditional 591
Site of the First National Currency 608–9 Dandong 437, 443, 446–7
Congress of the Chinese currency exchange 608 Daning river 359
Communist Party (Shanghai) duty-free allowances 599 Danxia Shan 309
200 Customs see etiquette Daode Guan (Zhangye) 494
Zunyi Conference 416 Customs House (Shanghai) 192 Daoguang emperor 59
Computer shops, Hong Kong Customs House (Wuhan) 273 Daoism 36, 37, 57
and Macau 336, 337 Customs information 599 Dong Yue Miao (Beijing) 99
Confucian Temple (Suzhou) 217 Cycling 621 Eight Immortals 155
Confucianism 36, 57 Cynical Realism school 46 Eight Immortals Temple (Xi’an)
Fuzi Miao (Nanjing) 228 167, 170
Han dynasty 60 D Empress of Heaven 155
literature 34 Fung Ying Sin Koon (New
Wenchang Ge (Yangzhou) 227 Da Hua Miao people 408, 412 Territories) 327
Confucius 34, 36, 60, 147, 149, Da Wang Feng 298 Han dynasty 60, 61
568–9 Da Xiangguo Si (Kaifeng) 156 Heng Shan 267
birthplace 79, 148–9 Da Zhao (Hohhot) 475 Hua Shan 177
Confucius’ Birthday 52 Dabei Monastery (Tianjin) 135 literature 34
Tai Shan 151 Dacang Langmu Gansu Gompa qi 38
and the Yijing 39 Qingcheng Shan 374
Confucius Forest (Qufu) 149 (Langmusi) 486 Qingyang Gong (Chengdu) 364
Confucius Mansion (Qufu) 148–9 Dadonghai 311 Songshan 164
Confucius Temple (Beijing) 99 Dadu river 262, 377 tai ji quan (Tai Chi) 279
Confucius Temple (Jilin) 453 Dafo (Le Shan) 11, 15, 370–73 Tai Shan 150–51
Confucius Temple (Qufu) 149 Dafo Si (Shijiazhuang) 136 traditional Chinese gardens 184
Confucius Temple (Tianjin) 135 Dafo Si (Zhangye) 494 traditional medicine 238
Constellation (Shanghai) 207 Dagobas, 108 (Ningxia) 481 White Clouds Temple (Beijing)
Consulates 599 Daguan Pavilion (Lake Dian) 104–5
Convention & Exhibition Centre
(Hong Kong) 316–17, 338, 339 383
Conversion charts 601 Dai Miao (Tai Shan) 151

GENERAL INDEX 627

Daoism (cont.) Doctors 605 Dunhuang (cont.)
Wudang Shan 278 Dog meat 405 Mogao Caves 17, 467, 499, 501
Xuanmiao Guan (Suzhou) 211 Dong Hu (Shaoxing) 252 restaurants 584–5
Dong people silk paintings 63
The Dar (Shanghai) 207
Datong 127, 137 architecture 426, 427 Dunhuang Gucheng 498
Guizhou and Guangxi 403 Duoyun Xuan (Shanghai) 207
hotels 558 Dong Yue Miao (Beijing) 99 Dutong 427
restaurants 573–4 Dongba religion 399 Duty-free allowances 599
Daur people 460 Dongba Research Institute Duxiu Feng (Guilin) 421
David’s Shirts (Hong Kong) 337 (Lijiang) 398 Duzong emperor 59
Daxu, Li river cruise 422 Donghai Park (Dalian) 450 Dye, D.S. 365
Daxue Shan, Long March 262 Donghe (Baotou) 476 Dynasties 58–9
Dazhalan (Beijing) 91 Dongjiang cooking 289
Dazhen 388 Dongshan Ling 310 see also individual dynasties
Dazheng Hall (Shenyang) 444 Dongsheng 476 Dysentery 607
Dazu, carvings of 11, 15, 355, Dongson drums 429, 430 Dzong (Gyantse) 547
362–3 Dongting Hu 265, 267 Dzong (Shigatse) 548
Deep Water Bay 329 Dongxiang people 488, 511
Dehydration 606 Dormitories 554 E
Deities, Buddhist 527 security 604
Democracy movement 73 Dost Mohammed 495 E-mail facilities 610
Deng Xiaoping 21, 73, 302 Double-ninth (Chongyang) E’Ang Zongzhe 487
Deng Yingchao 357 Festival 53 Earthen dwellings of Yongding
Dengfeng 164 Doupotang Falls 407
Department stores 587 Dragon Boat Festivals 51, 339, 296
Beijing 118, 119 413 East China Sea 182
Hong Kong 336, 337 Dragon Culture (Hong Kong) 336, East Tomb (Shenyang) 445
Departure tax, air travel 613 337 Eastern Han dynasty 58, 60–61
Deqin, hotels 562 Dragon Gate Grotto (Western Eastern Palaces (Forbidden City)
Deserts Hills) 383
Chang Tang 531 Dragon Head Hill, Li river cruise 94–5
desertification 469 423 Eastern Qing Tombs 115
Gobi Desert 79, 476 Dragon Head Rock (Wudang Eastern Zhou dynasty 57, 59
landscape and wildlife 27 Shan) 278 Edward Youde Aviary (Hong
Taklamakan Desert 467, 498, Dragon King Temple (Summer
507, 519 Palace, Beijing) 108 Kong) 339
Detian Falls 403, 431 Dragon-i (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Eight Auspicious Symbols 546
Dezong emperor 58 Dragonair 615 Eight Banners 436
DHL Worldwide Express 611 Dragons 94 Eight Hermits Hall (Nancheng)
Di Tan Park (Beijing) 99 Dragon’s Head Cliff (Lu Shan) 258
Dialects 600 Drepung Monastery (Lhasa) 540 257
Dialling codes 611 Drinks see Food and drink Eight Immortals Temple (Xi’an)
Dian Dripping Water Cave (Shao Shan)
Kingdom of 348, 379 266 167, 170
Lake 383 Drop (Hong Kong) 338, 339 18 September Museum
Diaoshuilou Pubu (Jingpo Hu) Drugs, prescription 605
458 Drum Tower (Beijing) 98 (Shenyang) 444
Diarrhea 606 Drum Tower (Nanjing) 232–3 Electricity 601
Ding Ling (Beijing) 111 Drum Tower (Sanjiang) 426 Electronics shops, Hong Kong
Ding Shan 224 Drum Tower (Xi’an) 169
Dinghu Shan 308 Drum Tower (Zhongwei) 480 and Macau 336, 337
Dinosaur Museum (Zigong) 361 Drums, Dongson 429, 430 Elephant Trunk Hill, Li river cruise
Dinosaurs see Fossils Du Fu 34, 62, 64
Disabled travelers 557, 600 Du Fu’s Thatched Cottage 422
Discos 591 (Chengdu) 364 Elephants, Wild Elephant Valley
Discounts Du Ta (Manting) 390
air travel 613, 615 Du Wen Xiu 392 388
in hotels 555 Du Wenya 446 Embassies 599, 605
Discovery Bay 331 Du Yuesheng 195 Emei Shan 15, 355, 368–9
Diseases 606–7 Duan, Prince 439 Emergencies 605
immunization 599, 607 Duanzong emperor 59 Emin, Prince 508
Disneyland, Hong Kong 331, 338, Dujiangyan 374–5 Emin Ta (Turpan) 508
339 Dunhuang 17, 498 Empress of Heaven 155
Divine Cliffs (Yandang Shan) 183, cave paintings of Dunhuang 10, Engels, Friedrich 303
253 483, 491, 500–501 English language 600
Divine Peaks (Yandang Shan) 253 hotels 563 Entertainment 590–91
Dixia Senlin 458
Beijing 118–19
Hong Kong and Macau 338–9
Shanghai 206–7
Environmental problems 595
desertification 469
Three Gorges Dam 274
Er Hai 14, 348, 394
map 393
Er Hai Park 394
Er Shi emperor 59

628 GENERAL INDEX

Erwang Miao (Dujiangyan) 375 Flood Control Monument Friendship Highway 525, 550,
Ethnic minorities 24–5, 30–31 (Harbin) 456 551

food and drink 567 Flower Market (Hong Kong) 323 Fringe Club (Hong Kong) 338,
River Border 461 Flower Theater (Bozhou) 239 339
see also individual peoples Flowers see Parks and gardens;
Etiquette 602–3 Frost bite 606
food and drink 568–9 Plants Fubo Shan (Guilin) 421
Everest, Mount 531 Fo Si (Manting) 390 Fuguo Si (Lijiang) 398
base camp 525, 550–51 Foguang Si (Wutai Shan) 142 Fujian province 284, 291–9
Ewenki people 461 Folk Culture Village (Shenzhen)
Exchange rates 608 hotels 561
EXIT (Hong Kong) 336, 337 302 map 291
Exports, customs information 599 Food and drink 25 restaurants 579
Fujiazhuang Scenic Area 450–51
F alcohol 603 Fuli Village 425
Beijing and the North 82–3 Fulu Buddhist Nunnery (Sanjiang)
Face saving, etiquette 602 Central China 186–7 426
Famen Temple (Xi’an) 176 customs and etiquette 568–9 Furniture Museum (Pingyao) 144
Fan Pagoda (Kaifeng) 157 dog meat 405 Furongzhen 267
Fang Lijun, Series 2 No. 2 46–7 festivals 49 Fuxing Lu (Dali) 392
Fanpai 414 grapes and wine 510 Fuxing Park (Shanghai) 13, 200
Fast food 567 “little eats” 567 Fuzhou 291, 298
Fayu Si (Putuo Shan) 255 Macau 335 hotels 561
Fayuan Temple (Beijing) 104 rice 286–7 restaurants 579
Federal Express 611 Sheung Wan’s Markets (Hong Fuzi Miao (Nanjing) 228
Feilai 309 Kong) 321
Feixia 309 South China 288–9 G
Feiyun Dong 415 Southwest China 352–3
Felix (Hong Kong) 338, 339 stomach upsets 606 Galleries see Museums and
Fen river 143 The Story of Tea 299 galleries
Feng shui 39 street food 566
Fengcong karst 419, 423 symbolism 565 Gambling, Hong Kong 338, 339
Fenghuan Ta (Chaozhou) 302 Tsingtao beer 152 Games, in public parks 590
Fenghuang Shan 447 What to Drink in China 570–71 Ganden Monastery (Lhasa) 524,
Fenghuang Shan Lu Revolution see also Restaurants
Football (soccer) 590, 592 531, 541, 542–3
Headquarters Site (Yan’an) 177 Forbidden City 12, 40, 67, 92–5, Ganden Palace (Lhasa) 540
Fenghuang Song (Jiuhua Shan) 438–9 Gang of Four 71, 73, 183
Visitors’ Checklist 93 Gang Gyen Carpet Factory
240 Foreign Languages Bookstore
Fenglin karst 419 (Beijing) 100 (Shigatse) 548
Fengxian Si (Longmen Caves) 160 Forest of Stelae Museum (Xi’an) Gangzaihou Beach (Gulangyu
Ferries 619 168
Festivals 50–53 Forests, Northeast China 28 Island) 293
Former Headquarters of the Ganjia Grasslands 486
good luck and prosperity 48–9 Hubei Military Government Ganlaba 388
Hong Kong 339 (Wuhan) 272 Gansu province 466, 467, 483
Miao people 412–13, 415 Former Supreme Court (Hong
Fez (Beijing) 119 Kong) 316 hotels 563
Fifth Moon Festival 51 Formula One Grand Prix 592, 595 map 483
Film 46, 591 Forrest, George 350, 351 restaurants 584–5
Beijing 118–19 Fortaleza do Monte (Macau) 13, Gansu Provincial Museum
festivals 51 332 (Lanzhou) 16, 489
Kung Fu film industry 165 Fortress (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Gantong Si (Dali) 393
Shanghai 207 Foshan 308 Gao Miao (Zhongwei) 480
Fire services 605 Foshan Folk Art Studio (Foshan) Gao Ming, General 381
Fireworks 48–9 308 Gao Xingjian 34
Firing range 594 Fossils 459 Gao Zhishen 383
First-aid kit 606 Dinosaur Museum (Zigong) 361 Gaochang Gucheng 509
Fishing, cormorant 424 Inner Mongolia Museum Gaochang Ruins 17, 19, 499
Fitzgerald, Lieutenant 332 (Hohhot) 474 Gaodi emperor 58, 60
Five Dynasties 58, 64 Wenya Museum (Jinzhou) 446 Gaoding 427
5-Level Double Ship Lock (Three Foster, Sir Norman 316 Gaozong emperor 58, 59, 63, 170,
Gorges Dam) 275 Founding of Chinese Communist 176
Five Rams Statue (Guangzhou) Party Day 52 Gaozu emperor 58
307 Fragrant Isle (Suzhou) 212 Garden of Harmonious Pleasures
Five-colored Pool, Jiuzhai Gou French Concession (Shanghai) 13, (Summer Palace, Beijing) 107
tour 376 200 Garden Tomb of Puhaddin
Flaming Mountains (Turpan) 509 French Legation (Kunming) 380 (Yangzhou) 227
Garden of Virtue and Harmony
(Summer Palace, Beijing) 107,
108
Gardens see Parks and gardens

GENERAL INDEX 629

Gasa 391 Great Goose Pagoda (Xi’an) 16, Guangzong emperor 59
Gate of Divine Prowess 167, 170, 491 Guanlin (Luoyang) 158
Guanyin Colossus (Putuo Shan)
(Forbidden City) 95 Great Hall of the People (Beijing),
Gate of Heavenly Purity Street-by-Street map 88 254
Guanyin Si (Dali) 393
(Forbidden City) 40, 94 Great Hall of the People Gui Shan (Wuhan) 273
Gate of Supreme Harmony (Chongqing) 356–7 Guia Fort and Lighthouse

(Forbidden City) 92 Great Leap Forward 73 (Macau) 332
Gay and lesbian travelers 604–5 Great Mosque (Hohhot) 474 Guilin 10, 14, 349, 403, 419, 420–
Ge Yuan (Yangzhou) 226 Great Mosque (Kuqa) 513
Geija Miao people 412, 413, 415 Great Mosque (Xi’an) 16, 169 23
The Geisha (Shanghai) 207 Great Mosque (Xining) 502 hotels 562
Gelanghe 390–91 Great Purity Palace (Lao Shan) 153 Li river cruise 422–3
Gelugpa sect see Yellow Hat Sect Great Wall of China 12, 21, 60, 78, map 421
Genden Drup 548 restaurants 583
General Post Office 611 112–14 Visitors’ Checklist 421
Genghis Khan 58, 66, 467, 468–9, Great Wall Museum (Jiayuguan) Guiping 428–9
16, 494 Guiyang 404–5
477 Hexi Corridor 483 map 405
and Beijing 85 Hushan Great Wall (Dandong) restaurants 583
Genghis Khan’s Mausoleum 447 Guiyuan Si (Wuhan) 273
(Dongsheng) 476, 477 Jiayuguan Fort 10, 496–7 Guizhou province 348, 349, 403
Inner Mongolia Museum map 113 food and drink 353
(Hohhot) 474 in Ming dynasty 67, 112–13 hotels 562
Geology, karst 418–19 Shanhaiguan 134 map 403
George III, King of England 439 Xuanbi Changcheng 494 restaurants 583
German Concession (Qingdao) Green Gang 200 Gulangyu Island 292–3
152 Greeting people 602 map 293
Ghost City (Mongolia) 512 Grünwedel, Albert 509 Gulong Si (Huanglong Xi) 374
Ginseng 454 Gu Hua 267 Gulou (Yinchuan) 479
Giordano (Hong Kong) 337 Gu Nan Men (Guilin) 420 Gulou (Zhangye) 494
Glacier, Hailou Gou 377 Gu Shan 298 Gunzhong Pass 480
Glamour Bar (Shanghai) 207 Guan Yu, General 35, 158, 274, Guo Xi 226
Glossary 654–5 360 Guoqing Si (Tiantai Shan) 253
Gobi Desert 79, 476 Guang Wudi emperor 58, 60 Guqin Tai (Wuhan) 273
Goccia (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Guangdong Communist uprising Gusong Qiao (Songpan) 375
G.O.D. (Hong Kong) 337 304 Guyuan 473, 480
Golden Mile (Hong Kong) 322 Guangdong province 284, 301 Gyantse 547
Golden Water (Forbidden City) 92 hotels 561
Golf 592 map 301 H
Golmud 483, 503 restaurants 579–80
Gomar Monastery 502 Guanghan Dong 407 Ha Noi Ruins (Kashgar) 515
Gong, Prince, Prince Gong’s Guanghua Lu (Tengchong) 395 Hai Rui 310
Mansion (Beijing) 12, 96, 119 Guangji Men (Chaozhou) 302 Haibao Ta (Yinchuan) 479
Gong Li 145 Guangji Si (Wuhu) 239 Haidong 394
Gongdi emperor 59 Guangxi province 348, 349, 403 Haigeng Park (Lake Dian) 383
Gongqing Forest Park (Shanghai) caving 1006 Haikou (Hainan Island) 301, 310
201 food and drink 353
Gongtang Pagoda 487 hotels 562 air travel 615
Gongyi 164 map 403 Haila’er 473, 478
Gongzong emperor 59 restaurants 583 Hailou Gou Glacier 377
Good luck and prosperity 48–9 A Week in Guangxi and Yunnan Hainan Coconut Festival 51
Gorgeous Arts and Crafts (Hong 10, 14 Hainan Ferry Port 431
Kong) 336, 337 Guangxiao Si (Guangzhou) 305 Hainan Island 301, 310–11, 592
Government shops 587 Guangxu emperor 59, 69, 452
Governor’s Residence (Qingdao) Beijing Opera 80 air travel 615
152 Confucius Temple (Beijing) 99 hotels 561
Grand Canal 223, 224, 226 Summer Palace (Beijing) 107, 108 map 301, 311
map 223 Xi’an 170 restaurants 579–80
Grand Dragon Gate (Western Guangzhou (Canton) 301, 304–7 Hairy Crab Season 53
Hills) 383 air travel 615 Haitong 371
Grand Hyatt 557 food and drink 288 Hakka people 285, 291
Grape Valley (Turpan) 509 hospitals 605 earthen dwellings of Yongding
Grapes 510 hotels 561 296
Grasslands, Inner Mongolia 28, map 305 Xincun 311
475 Public Security Bureau (PSB) 599 Hall of Attractive Scenery
Great Bell Temple (Beijing) 109 restaurants 579 (Suzhou) 218
“Great Game” 495 Visitors’ Checklist 305 Hall of Benevolence and
Longevity (Summer Palace,
Beijing) 107, 108

630 GENERAL INDEX

Hall of Distance Fragrance Heat 606 Hong Kong (cont.)
(Suzhou) 213 Heavenly Kingdom Rebellion see hospitals 605
hotels 561
Hall of Four Auspicious Merits Taiping Rebellion map 314–15
(Suzhou) 219 Hebei province 78, 79, 127 The Peak 13, 318–19
public transport 620, 621
Hall of Happiness and Longevity hotels 558–9 restaurants 580–81
(Summer Palace, Beijing) 108 map 127 returned to China 73
restaurants 573–4 shopping 336–7
Hall of Imperial Peace (Forbidden Hebei Provincial Museum Street Finder 340–43
City) 94 (Shijiazhuang) 136 Two Days in Hongkong 10, 13
Hedi emperor 58, 61 visas and passports 598
Hall of Jade Ripples (Summer Hedin, Sven 499
Palace, Beijing) 108 Hefei 239 Hong Kong Academy of the
Hei Ta 391 Performing Arts 338, 339
Hall of Mental Cultivation Heihe 460
(Forbidden City) 95 Heikong Shan 395 Hong Kong Arts Centre 50, 338,
Heilong Jiang 460 339
Hall of Middle Harmony Heilong Tan Gongyuan (Lijiang)
(Forbidden City) 93 398 Hong Kong Coliseum 338, 339
Heilongjiang province 436, 443 Hong Kong Cultural Centre 322
Hall of Supreme Harmony hotels 562–3 Hong Kong Disneyland 331, 338,
(Forbidden City) 93 restaurants 583–4
skiing 593, 595 339
Hall of Union (Forbidden City) 94 Helan Shan 473, 480 Hong Kong Life Saving Society
Han Chinese 30 Henan province 78, 147
Han dynasty 58, 60–61 hotels 559 329
map 147 Hong Kong Museum of Art 322
porcelain 261 restaurants 574–5 Hong Kong Museum of History
Han Jiang estuary 302 Henan Provincial Museum
Han Xiangzi 37 (Zhengzhou) 158 322–3
Hanafi School, Islam 511 Heng river 137 Hong Kong Rugby Football
Hanas Lake Nature Reserve 512 Heng Shan 76, 137, 265, 267
Hanging Monastery (Heng Shan) Hepatitis 607 Union 592, 595
Heritage Museum (Hong Kong) Hong Kong Science Museum
76 326
Hanging Palace (Cangyan Shan) Heshun 96, 395 322
Hetian Regional Museum Hong Kong Wetland Park 327
136 (Khotan) 519 Hong Kong Zoological &
Hanging Temple (Heng Shan) Hetian Silk Factory (Khotan) 519
Hexi Corridor 483 Botanical Gardens 13, 317
127, 137 Hezhen people 461 Hong Men Gong (Tai Shan) 151
Hangzhou 13, 183, 245, 246–51 Hilton 557 Hong Qiao Market (Beijing) 12,
Himalayas 355, 531
food and drink 186 Everest base camp 525, 550–51 118, 119
hotels 560 History 57–73 Hong Xiuquan 229, 303, 428, 429
map 247 HIV 607 Hongcun 240
restaurants 578 Hmong people see Miao people Hongqiao Airport (Shanghai) 613
West Lake 248–51 Ho, Dr. (Daoist physician) 398 Hongshan Park (Ürümqi) 510
Hani people 30, 388 Ho, Dr. Stanley 333, 334 Hongwu emperor 58, 66, 237
Hankou (Wuhan) 273 Hohhot 473, 474–5
Hanlingyuan Museum hotels 563 Linggu Temple (Nanjing) 235,
(Yangzhou) 226 restaurants 584 236
Hanshan Si (Suzhou) 217 Holiday Inn 557 Ming Palace Ruins (Nanjing)
Hanwen Gong Ci (Chaozhou) 302 Holidays, public 53, 556, 600 232
Hao 167 Hollywood Road (Hong Kong) 13, Taiping Heavenly Kingdom
Haoshang Bridge (Le Shan) 371 320 History Museum (Nanjing) 228
Happy Valley Racecourse (Hong Homosexuality 604–5 tomb of 234, 236
Kong) 317, 338, 339 Honeychurch Antiques (Hong Wenchang Ge (Yangzhou) 227
Harbin 282, 436, 437, 443, 456–7 Kong) 336, 337 Winning Chess Pavilion
climate 55 Hong Kong 313–31 (Nanjing) 233
hotels 562–3 air travel 613, 615 Xi’an 168
map 457 banks 608 Zhonghua Gate (Nanjing) 230
restaurants 584 climate 55 Hongxi emperor 58
skiing 593, 595 entertainment 338–9 Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) 357
Harbin Northern Forest Zoo film industry 47 Hongzhi emperor 58, 260
(Harbin) 457 food and drink 289 Horses
Harbour City (Hong Kong) 336, history 284, 313 Happy Valley Racecourse (Hong
337 Kong) 317, 338, 339
Harbour Plaza 557 horse racing 52
Hardoon, Silas 202 horse trekking 595
He Lu, King of Wu 217 Hospitality 602
He Xiangning, tomb of 236 Hospitals 605
He Yuan (Yangzhou) 227 Hotan 519
Health care 605 Hotels 554–63
diseases 606–7 advance booking 598
immunization 599, 607 air conditioning 606
stomach upsets and diarrhea
606

GENERAL INDEX 631

Hotels (cont.) Hubei Provincial Museum Incense Burner Peak (Beijing) 109
bargaining 603 (Wuhan) 272 Influenza 607
booking 555 Inner Mongolia and the Silk
children in 557 Huguang Guildhall (Beijing) 119
disabled travelers 557 Huguo Lu (Dali) 392 Roads 462–519
hidden costs 555 Hui Li 247 food and drink 83
hotel chains 557 Hui Neng 305 Gansu and Qinghai 483–505
restaurants 566 Hui people 31, 466, 473 Genghis Khan 477
seasonal demand 556 grasslands 28, 475
security 604 Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) hotels 563
smoking in 603 104 Inner Mongolia and Ningxia
tipping in 557 food and drink 83 473–81
Islam 511 Jiayuguan Fort 496–7
House of Blues & Jazz (Shanghai) Weining 408 Maiji Shan 16, 484–5
207, 208 Hui’an people 285, 297 maps 464–5, 473
Huidi emperor 58 Mongols of the Steppe 468–9
Houses Hui’e, legend of 255 Portrait of Inner Mongolia and
Beijing’s courtyard houses 97 Huihe 164 the Silk Roads 466–7
Dai people 389 Huiji Si (Putuo Shan) 255 restaurants 584–5
Dong architecture 427 Huizhou architecture 241 Silk Road 470–71
earthen dwellings of Yongding Huizong emperor 59, 65 The Spread of Buddhism 491
296 Hukeng 296 Trans Siberian Express 441
Huizhou architecture 241 Huli Shan Paotai (Xiamen) 292 Xinjiang 507–19
Hulunbuir Grasslands 478 Inner Mongolia Museum
Howard Johnson 557 Humble Administrator’s Garden (Hohhot) 474
HSBC (Hong Kong & Shanghai (Suzhou) 212–13 Inner Mongolia province 472–81
Humidity 606 hotels 563
Banking Corporation) 608 Hunan First Normal College map 473
Headquarters (Hong Kong) 39, (Changsha) 266 restaurants 584
316 Hunan province 183, 265 Insect-borne diseases 607
Hu Jintao 23, 73 hotels 560–61 Insurance 599, 605
Hu Xueyan 246 map 265 Intercontinental 557
Hua Shan 167, 177, 430 restaurants 578–9 International Fashion Festival 52
Huacheng Si (Jiuhua Shan) 240 Hunan Provincial Museum International Finance Centre 316
Huading Peak (Tiantai Shan) 253 (Changsha) 266 International Labor Day 51
Huagang Garden (Hangzhou) 248 Hundred Flowers Movement 73 International Post Office 611
Huai river 209 Hungry Ghost Festival (Hong International Women’s Day 50
Huai Su 196 Kong) 339 Internet facilities 610
Huaisheng Mosque (Guangzhou) Huo Qubin, General 489 Inventions 42–3
305 Huoshao Shan (Wu Da Lian Chi) Irish Embassy 605
Huaiyang cuisine 187 460 Iron Pagoda (Kaifeng) 156
Hualin Si (Guangzhou) 304 Hushan Great Wall (Dandong) Isetan (Shanghai) 206, 207
Huandi emperor 58 447 Islam see Muslims and Islam
Huang Gongwang 45 Huxingting Teahouse (Shanghai) Islamic Cemetery (Guangzhou)
Huang Shan 209, 242–3 189, 199 306–7
Huang Shi Zhai (Wulingyuan) 270 Huxiyan (Xiamen) 292 Island Beverley (Hong Kong) 336,
Huangguoshu Falls 407 Hyatt Regency 557 337
Huanghua Cheng 114 Hygiene 605 Itineraries
Huanglong 375 Hypothermia 606 Two Days in Beijing 10, 12
Huanglong Dong Park Two Days in Hongkong 10, 13
(Hangzhou) 246 I Two Days in Shanghai 10,
Huanglong Dong (Wulingyuan) 12–13
271 Ibis 557 Two Weeks on the Silk Road 10,
Huanglong Xi 11, 15, 374 Ice sculpture 456, 460 16–17
Huangpu Park (Shanghai) 201 Id Kah Mosque (Kashgar) 17, 514 A Week in Guangxi and Yunnan
Huangpu river 12, 182, 189, 190, Ikparhan 516 10, 14
201 Ili river 512, 513 A Week in Sichuan and
Huangyao 428 Immunization 599, 607 Chongqing 11, 15
Huashi Lou (Qingdao) 153 Imperial Gardens (Forbidden Iyer, Pico 313
Huating Si (Western Hills) 383
Huaxi District (Guiyang) 405 City) 94 J
Huayan Si (Datong) 137 Imperial Palace (Shenyang) 438,
Huayi Classical Furniture (Beijing) Jade 519
118, 119 444 Jade Belt Bridge (Summer Palace,
Hubao Building Basement Market Imperial Zenith Hall (Forbidden
(Shanghai) 206 Beijing) 108
Hubei province 183, 265 City) 95 Jade Buddha Temple (Shanghai)
hotels 560–61 Impression West Lake
map 265 202
restaurants 578–9 (Hangzhou) 246

632 GENERAL INDEX

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Jin Ding Si (Emei Shan) 369 Kaiyuan Si (Chaozhou) 302
386–7, 398, 400, 592 Jin dynasty 58, 64, 65 Kaiyuan Si (Fuzhou) 298
Jin Qiaojue 240 Kaiyuan Si (Quanzhou) 297
Jade Market (Hong Kong) 323, Jin Qu Xi 298 Kang Mei Yuan Chao Zhanzheng
336, 337 Jin Shan Park (Zhenjiang) 224
Jinan 148 (Dandong) 447
James and Hooch (Beijing) 119 Kangding 377
Jamyang Choje 540 hotels 559 Kangxi emperor 59, 68, 128,
Japan, occupation of Manchuria restaurants 574
Jinci Si (Taiyuan) 143 438
72, 437, 443 Jindian Gong (Wudang Shan) Baoguang Si 366
Japanese Germ Warfare 278 Chengde 128
Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 12, 96 Da Zhao (Hohhot) 475
Experimental Base (Harbin) 457 Jing’an Temple (Shanghai) 202 Eastern Qing Tombs 115
Japanese-Russian Prison (Dalian) Jingang Palace (Lanzhou) 489 Forbidden City 95
Jingdezhen 183, 245, 261 Marco Polo Bridge 116
451 Jingdi emperor 58 Karakoram Highway 518
Jar Hill Observation Platform Jinggang Shan 245, 263 Karakoram Mountains 507
Long March 263 Karaoke 591
(Three Gorges Dam) 275 Jinghong 347, 388 Karghilik 519
Le Jardin (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Jingjiang Prince’s Palace (Guilin) Karma Phuntso Namgyel 548
Jardine Matheson 203 421 Karmapa (Black Hats) order 546
Jesuits Jingpo Hu 437, 443, 458 Karst 418–19
Jingtai emperor 58 Karst Caves (Yixing County)
astronomy 100 Jingzhen 390 224
and Ming dynasty 67 Jingzhou 274 Kashgar 10, 17, 467, 507, 514–17
and Qing dynasty 68, 69 Jingzong emperor 58 Aba Khoja Mausoleum 516–17
Ruinas de Sπo Paulo (Macau) Jinjiang Hotel (Shanghai) 200 hotels 563
332 Jinjiang Inn 557 map 515
Yuanming Yuan (Beijing) 109 Jinmao Tower (Shanghai) 12, 195 restaurants 585
Jet Li 165 Jinpeng Pass 593 Visitors’ Checklist 515
Jewelry shops, Hong Kong and Jinsha Jiang 400 Kashgaria 495, 507, 512, 514
Macau 336, 337 Jinsuo Dao 394 Kazakhs 30, 510, 511
Jewish Refugee Museum Jintian 428, 429 Kazakhstan 507
(Shanghai) 204 Jinzhou 446 Kegong Fang (Lijiang) 396
Jews, in Kaifeng 156, 157 Jitang 427 Kelsang Potrang (Lhasa) 533
Jiajing emperor 58, 59 Jitong railway 593 Khaishan 58
Jialing river 356 Jiuhua Shan 180, 209, 240 Khampa people 377
Jian Lou (Arrow Tower, Beijing) 90 Jiujiang 258 Khi Vehdu 202
Street-by-Street map 88 Jiulong Bi (Datong) 127 Khoshila 58
Jian Zhen 226 Jiuzhai Gou 355 Khunjerab Pass 518
Jianfeng Chi (Stone Forest) 385 Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 King of Borneo’s Tomb (Nanjing)
Jianfeng Ling Nature Reserve 311 Jokhang Temple (Lhasa) 525, 534, 237
Jianfu Gong (Qingcheng Shan) 536–7 King Wah Building (Hong Kong)
374 Joyce (Hong Kong) 337 337
Jiang Qing 71 Jue Yuan (Guiyang) 404 Kipling, Rudyard 495
Jiang Zemin 73, 227 Juma river 117 Kite flying 591
Jiangsu province 209 Jumbo Floating Restaurants festivals 50
hotels 560 (Aberdeen) 328 Kizil 513
map 209 Jungle 29 KLM 613
restaurants 577 Bupan Aerial Walkway (Mengla) Knives, Yengisar Country Small
Jiangxi province 245 390 Knife Factory 518
hotels 560 Southwest China 351 Ko Shan Theatre (Hong Kong)
map 245 Xishuangbanna 390, 391 338, 339
Nanchang Uprising 183 Junshan Dao 267 Kodari 551
restaurants 578 Justinian, Emperor 214 Kong family 149
Jiangxin Park (Wenzhou) 253 Juyong Guan 114 Kongtong Shan 490
Jianshan Si (Yangshuo) 424–5 JZ Club (Shanghai) 206, 207 Kongzhong Tianyuan
Jianwen emperor 58 (Wulingyuan) 270
Jiao Shan 134, 224 K Korea 443, 446–7
Jiaohe Ruins (Turpan) 10, 17, 508 Kotnis, Dwarkanath 136
Jiaxiu Lou (Guiyang) 404 Kadoorie Farm & Botanic Garden Kowloon 284, 313
Jiayin Hall (Tongli) 222 327, 339 map 315
Jiayuguan 16, 483, 494 see also Hong Kong
Jiayuguan Fort 10, 16, 496–7 Kaifeng 78, 147, 156–7, 159 Koxinga Memorial Hall (Gulang
Jiazhou Huayuan (Le Shan) 370 map 157 Yu) 293
Jile Si (Harbin) 457 Koxinga (Zheng Chenggong)
Jilin 453 Kaili 403, 414 292, 293
Jilin province 436, 443 Kaishu calligraphy 33
hotels 562–3
restaurants 583–4
Jimei School Village (Xiamen) 292
Jin Dian (Kunming) 382

GENERAL INDEX 633

Kublai Khan 58, 66, 348, 394, 398 Lao Hei Shan (Wu Da Lian Chi) Liberation Monument
Beijing 79, 90, 96 460 (Chonqing) 356, 357
and Chinese cuisine 82
Dongxiang people 488 Lao Long Tou 134 Life (Hong Kong) 338, 339
Sakya Monastery 550 Lao Shan 153 Ligong Pagoda (Hangzhou) 247
Xanadu 478 Lao She Teahouse (Beijing) 119 Lijiang 10, 14, 349, 379, 396–8,
Laojun Pavilion (Qingcheng
Kuixing Tower (Pingyao) 145 399
Kumarajiva 498, 513 Shan) 374 hotels 562
Kumbum (Gyantse) 547 Laojun Yan 297 restaurants 583
Kumbum Monastery see Ta’er Si Laos 379, 390 Street-by-Street map 396–7
Kundulun (Baotou) 476 Laozi 36, 37 Visitors’ Checklist 397
Kung, H.H. 193, 204 Limestone, karst 418–19
Kung Fu 164, 165, 594 Laojun Yan (Quanzhou) 297 Lin Biao 71, 73
Luoyang 158 Lin Mo 155
tai ji quan (Tai Chi) 279 Qingyang Gong (Chengdu) 364 Lin Zexu 298
Kunming 10, 14, 379, 380–83 Largo do Senado (Macau) 13, Lin Zexu Memorial Hall (Fuzhou)
333 298
climate 54 Later Jin dynasty 68 Lingdi emperor 58
hotels 562 Le Coq, Albert von 499, 509, 513 Linggu Pagoda (Nanjing) 235,
map 381 Le Shan 355 236
Muslim Uprising 348 Dafo 11, 15, 370–73 Linggu Temple (Nanjing) 235,
restaurants 583 Lee, Bruce 165 236
Kunming Lake 85 Legalism 57, 60 Lingshui 310–11
Kuomintang (KMT) 72 Lei Shan 414 Lingyin Si (Hangzhou) 247
and the Long March 262 Leigong Shan 414 Lingyun Ting (Zhenjiang) 224
Kuqa 10, 17, 513 Leitai Si (Wuwei) 494 Linxia 488
Kwan Yu 321 Lenin, V.I. 105 Lishu calligraphy 33
Kyrgyz people 511 Lesbian travelers 604–5 Literature 34–5
Lhasa 503, 525, 532–41 customs information 599
L air travel 615 “Little eats” 567
Barkhor 534–5 Little, Edward 258
Labor Park (Dalian) 450 climate 54 Liu Bei 360
Labrang Monastery 16, 467, 483, hotels 563 tomb of 365
Jokhang Temple 525, 534, Liu Rong Si (Guangzhou) 305
486, 487, 531 536–7 Liu Shaoqi 71
Labrang Nyingba (Lhasa) 535 map 532–3 Liu Xu, tomb of 226
Lacquerware 298 Potala Palace 525, 538–9 Liu Yazi 222
Laifeng Monastery (Tengchong) restaurants 585 Liu Yuan (Suzhou) 217
Visitors’ Checklist 533 Liubiju (Beijing) 91
395 Li, Jet 165 Liugong Island 155
Laifeng Shan Park (Tengchong) Li Bai 34, 62, 64 Liulichang (Beijing) 91, 118
Qutang Gorge 359 Lizong emperor 59
395 tomb of 239 Loess plateau 159
Lama Temple (Beijing) 79, 98–9 Li Bing 374 Lok Cha Tea Shop (Hong Kong)
Lamaism 140 Li Cang, Marquis of Dai 266 336–7
Li Chun 136 Long Corridor (Summer Palace,
Wudang Zhao 476 Li Guangxiu 382 Beijing) 107, 108
Lamma Fisherfolk’s Village Li people 31, 285, 301, 310 Long Lake, Jiuzhai Gou tour 376
Li Qingzhao Memorial Hall (Jinan) Long March 72, 183, 262–3
(Lamma Island) 330 148 Luding Chain Bridge 262, 377
Lamma Island 13, 330 Li river 348, 349 Zunyi Conference 416
Lan Kwai Fong (Hong Kong) 320 at Guilin 420 Longevity Hill (Summer Palace,
Lan Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou) 489 karst landscape 418 Beijing) 106, 108
Lan Ting (Shaoxing) 252 Li river cruise 14, 422–3 Longgong Dong 406–7
The Landmark (Hong Kong) 316, Li Xiucheng 210 Longhua Cemetery of Martyrs
Li Zhisui 269 (Shanghai) 205
336, 337 Lianfengshan Park (Beidaihe) 134 Longhua Si (Shanghai) 205
Landscape 26–9 Liangma Antique Market (Beijing) Longji Titian 410–11, 426
118, 119 Longjing Village (Hangzhou) 246
karst 418–19 Liangying, Zhang 246 Longmen Caves 79, 147, 160–63
Lang Mei Xian Ci (Wudang Shan) Liao Bingxiong 307 Longqing emperor 58
Liao dynasty 58, 64 Longquan Si (Wutai Shan) 142
278 Liao Zhongkai, tomb of 236 Longrui Nature Preserve 430
Langde 414 Liaoning province 436, 443, 444 Longshan culture 57
Langmusi 486 hotels 562–3 Longsheng 14, 426
Language and script 24, 32–3, 600 restaurants 583–4 Longtan Village 425
Longting Park (Kaifeng) 157
Cantonese 285
phrase book 656–60
Zhuang people 430
Lantau Island 13, 330–31
map 330–31
Lantau Peak 331
Lantern Festival 50
Lanzhou 16, 171, 467, 483, 488–9
hotels 563
map 488–9
restaurants 585

634 GENERAL INDEX

Longwu Si (Tongren) 502 Maiji Shan 10, 16, 484–5 Mao Zedong (cont.)
Lotus Flower Cave (Longmen Mail services 610 Underground City (Beijing) 90
Maitreya Buddha 540 Yan’an 177
Caves) 161 Majestic Theater (Shanghai) 206, Zunyi Conference 416
Lovers’ Festival 52
Lowland landscape and wildlife 207 Maotai 416
Malaria 607 Maps
29 Maling Canyon 408
Lu Xun Park (Shanghai) 204 Malone’s (Shanghai) 207 Asia 1010
Lu, Y.C. 236 Man Mo Temple (Hong Kong) 13, Beijing 86–7
Lu Yu 299 Beijing: Street Finder 120–25
Lu Hou emperor 58 320 Beijing: Tian’an Men Square
Lu Shan 245, 258–9 Manchu dynasty 68, 436, 438–9 88–9
Manchukuo 72, 437, 443, 452 Beijing and the North 76–7
Long March 262 Manchuria 72, 436–7, 443 Central China 180–81
Lu Su, tomb of 273 Mandalas 540 Changbai Shan 454–5
Lu Xun 35, 204 Mandarin Chinese 32, 600 Chengdu 365
Mandarin Duck Hall (Suzhou) 212 China 18–19, 1010–11
Lu Xun’s Former Residence Manfeilong Ta 391 Chongqing 357
(Shaoxing) 252 Manguanghan 391 Dali and Er Hai 393
Luck and prosperity 48–9 Manguanglong Si (Gasa) 390 Dalian 451
Ludi Yan (Guilin) 421 Manjusri 141 Emei Shan 368–9
Luding 377 Manjusri Temple (Lhasa) 540 Fujian 291
Luding Chain Bridge 262, 377 Manlei Si (Mengzhe) 390 Gansu and Qinghai 483
Lufthansa 613 Manpo 391 Genghis Khan’s empire 477
Lukhang (Lhasa) 532 Manting 390 Grand Canal 223
Lunar calendar 50 Manting Park (Jinghong) 388 Great Wall of China 113
Luo Yue people 430 Manting Wat (Jinghong) 388 Greater Beijing 86
Luohan Hall (Baoguang Si) 366 Manzhouli 478 Greater Shanghai 191
Luohan Si (Chongqing) 356 Mao Ling (Xi’an) 176 Guangdong and Hainan 301
Luohou Si (Wutai Shan) 140 Mao Zedong 105, 256 Guangzhou 305
Luomen 486 Guilin 421
Luoshi Ta (Wuwei) 494 birthplace 265, 266, 268 Guiyang 405
Luoyang 78, 147, 158 Changsha 266 Guizhou and Guangxi 403
air travel 615 cult of Mao 268–9 Hainan Island 311
hotels 559 Cultural Revolution 70–71, 73 Hangzhou 247
restaurants 574 death 73 Harbin 457
Luoyang City Museum (Luoyang) Dripping Water Cave (Shao Hebei, Tianjin and Shanxi 127
158 Shan) 266 Hong Kong 314–15
Lushun 451 founds People’s Republic of Hong Kong: Street Finder 340–
Lyceum Theater (Shanghai) 206, China 72 43
207 Great Leap Forward 73 Huang Shan 242–3
Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) Huangpu river 201
M 357 Hunan and Hubei 265
Hunan 183 Inner Mongolia and Ningxia
Mac Lehose Trail (New Territories) Long March 72, 262–3 473
327 Lu Shan 258, 259 Inner Mongolia and the Silk
Mao Ancestral Temple (Shao Roads 464–5
Macartney, Lord 68, 69, 439 Shan) 266 Jiangsu and Anhui 209
Macau 13, 332–5 Mao Zedong Memorial Jiuzhai Gou tour 376
Museum (Shao Shan) 266 Kaifeng 157
airport 613 Mao’s Family House (Shao Shan) Kashgar 515
entertainment 338–9 266 Kowloon 315
food and drink 335 Mao’s Villa (Wuhan) 272 Kunming 381
history 313 Mausoleum (Beijing) 12, 88 Lantau Island 330–31
hotels 561 Monument to the People’s Lanzhou 488–9
map 333 Heroes (Beijing) 89 Lhasa 532–3
Portuguese colony 284, 313, and Northeast China 437 Li river cruise 422–3
332 Ode to Plum Blossom (Stone Lijiang 396–7
restaurants 581 Forest) 384 Long March 262–3
returned to China 73 Peasant Movement Institute Longmen Caves 161
shopping 336–7 (Guangzhou) 304 Macau 333
visas and passports 598 Site of the First National Miao communities 412
Visitors’ Checklist 333 Congress of the Chinese Miao villages 415
Macau Cultural Centre 338, 339 Communist Party (Shanghai) Nanchang 257
Macau Museum 13, 332 200 Nanjing 229
Macau Tower 334 statues of 298, 444, 446 Northeast China 434–5
Magazines 611 Tai Shan 151 The Peak (Hong Kong) 318–19
Mahao Cave Tombs (Le Shan) 371 Tian’an Men (Beijing) 89
Mahayana Buddhism 37, 491
see also Buddhism
Mahjong 590
Mai Po Marshes 327

GENERAL INDEX 635

Maps (cont.) Marriott 557 Ming dynasty 58, 66–7
Qingdao 152–3 Martial arts 38, 594 Great Wall of China 67, 112–13
Shaanxi province 167 literature 34, 35
Shamian Island 306–7 festivals 52 Ming Tombs (Beijing) 39,
Shandong and Henan 147 Kung Fu 164, 165 110–11
Shanghai 190–91 Martial Arts School (Wudang Nanjing 183
Shenyang 445 Shan) 278 porcelain 260, 261
Shigatse 549 Martyrs’ Memorial Hall (Heng Xiao Ling Tomb (Nanjing) 236
Sichuan and Chongqing 355 Shan) 267
Silk Road 471 Martyrs’ Memorial (Nanjing) 237 Ming Palace Ruins (Nanjing) 232
South China 282–3 Martyrs’ Park (Changsha) 266 Ming Shan 358
Southwest China 346–7 Marx, Karl 105, 303 Ming Xiao Ling Museum
The Spread of Buddhism 491 Mason, Richard 316
Suzhou 211 Masta 605 (Nanjing) 234
Tai Shan 150–51 Matang 415 Mingdi emperor 58
Tianjin 135 Mati Si (Zhangye) 494 Mingjiao Si (Hefei) 239
Tibet 522–3 May 7 Cadre Schools 71 Mingsha Shan 17, 498
Tiger Leaping Gorge 400–401 Mazu Miao (Meizhou Island) 297 Mini Three Gorges 15, 359
Trans Siberian Express 441 MD Travel Health 605 Minority peoples 24–5, 30–31
Wuhan 272–3 Measurements 601
Wulingyuan 270–71 Medical facilities 605 food and drink 567
Wutai Shan 140–41, 142 Medical insurance 599, 605 River Border 461
Xiamen and Gulangyu Island 293 Medicine see also individual peoples
Xi’an 169 Chinese Medicine Museum Mirror Pools 346
Xinjiang 507 (Hangzhou) 246 Mishi Xiang (Lijiang) 397
Xishuangbanna 391 Medicinal Market (Bozhou) 239 Mission Hills 592, 595
Yangshuo 425 Traditional medicine 238 Mo Yan 35
Yangzhou 227 “Meet in Beijing” Festival 51 Mobile phones 610
Yangzi cruise 358–9 Mei Lanfang 81 MOCA Shanghai 194, 195
Yunnan 379 Mei Yuan (Taihu) 222 Mochou Lake (Nanjing) 233
Zhejiang and Jiangxi 245 Meilu Villa (Lu Shan) 259 Mogao Caves 17, 467, 499, 501
Meiyuan Xincun (Nanjing) 232 Mohammed Kashgari, tomb of
Marble Boat (Summer Palace, Meizhou Island 285, 291, 297 515
Beijing) 106 Mekong river 379, 388, 531 Mohammed, Prophet 227
Melikawat 519 Mohe 460
Marble Carriageway (Forbidden Mencius 147, 149 Monasteries
City) 93 Mengda Tian Chi 503 10,000 Buddhas Monastery
Menghai 390 (Hong Kong) 326
Marco Polo Bridge 116 Menghun 391 accommodation in 555
Marco Polo Hotels 557 Mengla 390 Dabei Monastery (Tianjin) 135
Maritime Museum (Macau) 334 Menglun 390 Drepung Monastery (Lhasa)
Markets 587 Mengzhe 390 540
Menus Ganden Monastery (Lhasa) 524,
Bazaar (Turpan) 508 Beijing and the North 83 531, 541, 542–3
Beijing 100 Central China 187 Gomar Monastery 502
Bird and Flower Market South China 289 Kongtong Shan 490
(Kunming) 380 Southwest China 353 Labrang Monastery 16, 483,
Bird and Flower Markets (Hong Meridian Gate (Forbidden City) 486, 487, 531
Kong) 323 92 Meru Nyingba (Lhasa) 535
Dai people 389 Meru Nyingba (Lhasa) 535 Nechung Monastery (Lhasa)
Hong Kong and Macau 336, Meteorite Shower Museum (Jilin) 540–41
337 453 Pelkor Chode Monastery
Jade Market (Hong Kong) 323, Mi Fu 253 (Gyantse) 547
336, 337 Miao people 346, 348–9, 408 Po Lin Monastery (Lantau
Medicinal Market (Bozhou) 239 festivals and crafts 412–13, 415 Island) 330–31
Night Market (Shigatse) 548 Guizhou and Guangxi 403 Rongphu Monastery 550
Qingping Market (Guangzhou) maps 412, 415 Sakya Monastery 524, 525,
304 villages 414–15 550
Shanghai 206 Miao Rebellion 415 Samye Monastery 524, 544–5
Sheung Wan’s Markets (Hong Miaoying Temple White Dagoba Sera Monastery (Lhasa) 525,
Kong) 321 (Beijing) 105 541
Shuijing Xiang Market (Xining) Mid-Autumn Festival 52, 339 Shibao Zhai 358
502 Military Museum of the Chinese Ta’er Si 504–5
Sunday Market (Kashgar) 514 People’s Republic (Beijing) 105 Tashilunpo Monastery
Temple Street Market (Hong Millennium City (Kaifeng) 157 (Shigatse) 548–9
Kong) 323, 336, 337 Min Jiang 374, 375 Tibetan Buddhism 525, 526
Tibetan market (Shigatse) 548 Min people 291 Tsurphu Monastery 546
see also Shopping Wudang Zhao 476
Marks & Spencer (Hong Kong) Wutan Monastery 502
337

636 GENERAL INDEX

Money 608–9 Mountains (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
currency exchange 608 Putuo Shan 254–5 Great Wall Museum
duty-free allowances 599 Qilian Shan 494 (Shanhaiguan) 16, 134
security 604 Qixia Shan 246 Hanlingyuan Museum
Southwest China 350 (Yangzhou) 226
Mongkok Computer Centre Tai Shan 78, 79, 147, 150–51 Hebei Provincial Museum
(Hong Kong) 336, 337 Tian Shan 507 (Shijiazhuang) 136
Tiantai Shan 253 Henan Provincial Museum
Mongol empire 65, 66 Wudang Shan 265, 278 (Zhengzhou) 158
Mongol Global Tours 593, 595 Wulingyuan 270–71 Heritage Museum (Hong Kong)
Mongolia see Inner Mongolia Wutai Shan 127, 140–42 326
Monkey Island 311 Wuyi Shan 291, 294–5, 298 Hetian Regional Museum
Monument to the People’s Wuzhi Shan 310 (Khotan) 519
Yandang Shan 245, 253 Hong Kong Museum of Art 322
Heroes (Beijing), Street-by- Yangshuo 424, 425 Hong Kong Museum of History
Street map 89 Yulong Xue Shan 398 322–3
Monument to the Red Army Zhuque Shan 453 Hong Kong Science Museum
Martyrs (Zunyi) 416 322
Mor Pagoda (Ha Noi) 515 Moxi Xiang 377 Hubei Provincial Museum
Morrison, Robert 332 Mu Fu (Lijiang) 398 (Wuhan) 272
Moscow 441 Mudan river 458 Hunan Provincial Museum
Mosques 511 Mudanjiang 458 (Changsha) 266
Altyn Mosque (Yarkand) 519 Mu’en Tang (Shanghai) 194 Inner Mongolia Museum
Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) Mui Wo 331 (Hohhot) 474
104 Mukden see Shenyang Jewish Refugee Museum
etiquette 602 Murphy, Henry 235 (Shanghai) 204
Great Mosque (Hohhot) 474 Murray House (Stanley) 329 Jiazhou Huayuan (Le Shan) 370
Great Mosque (Kuqa) 10, 513 Museums and galleries Long March Museum (Zunyi)
Great Mosque (Xi’an) 16, 169 416
Great Mosque (Xining) 502 admission charges 600 Lu Xun’s Former Residence
Huaisheng Mosque Ancient Observatory (Beijing) (Shanghai) 204
(Guangzhou) 305 100–101 Luoyang City Museum
Id Kah Mosque (Kashgar) 17, Art Museum (Guangzhou) 307 (Luoyang) 158
514 Beijing Natural History Museum Macau Museum (Macau) 13,
Imin Ta (Turpan) 508 101 332
Nanguan Mosque (Linxia) 488 Ceramic History Exposition Mao Zedong Memorial
Nanguan Mosque (Yinchuan) (Jingdezhen) 261 Museum (Shao Shan) 266
479 China House Museum (Tianjin) Mao’s Family House (Shao Shan)
Qingjing Mosque (Quanzhou) 135 266
297 China National Museum Maritime Museum (Macau) 334
Xianhe Mosque (Yangzhou) 227 (Beijing) 89 Meiyuan Xincun (Nanjing) 232
Mosquitos 607 Chinese Medicine Museum Memorial Hall to the Martyrs of
Motel 168 557 (Hangzhou) 246 the Revolution (Nanchang) 256
Motorcycle rickshaws 621 Chongqing Museum Meteorite Shower Museum
Motorcycle taxis 621 (Chongqing) 356 (Jilin) 453
Mountaineering 594, 595 City Museum (Kunming) 381 Military Museum of the Chinese
Mountains Dali Museum (Dali) 392 People’s Republic (Beijing) 105
Cangyan Shan 136 Dinosaur Museum (Zigong) 361 Ming Xiao Ling (Nanjing) 234
Changbai Shan 454–5 Du Fu’s Thatched Cottage Minorities Museum (Kaili) 414
Emei Shan 355, 368–9 (Chengdu) 364 MOCA Shanghai 194, 195
Fenghuang Shan 447 Dunhuang County Museum Municipal Museum
Flaming Mountains (Turpan) (Dunhuang) 498 (Guangzhou) 307
509 18 September Museum Museum of the 1895 Sino-
Helan Shan 480 (Shenyang) 444 Japanese War (Weihai) 155
Heng Shan 137, 267 Forest of Stelae Museum (Xi’an) Museum of Dr. Sun Yat Sen
Hua Shan 167, 177 168 (Nanjing) 235, 236
Huang Shan 209, 242–3 Former Residence of Zhou Enlai Museum of Naxi Culture
Jinggang Shan 245, 263 (Shanghai) 200 (Lijiang) 398
Jiuhua Shan 209, 240 Foshan Folk Art Studio (Foshan) Museum of Opera and Theater
Karakoram Highway 518 308 (Suzhou) 211
Karakoram Mountains 507 Furniture Museum (Pingyao) Museum to Commemorate
landscape and wildlife 26 144 Aiding Korea & Resisting
Lao Shan 153 Gansu Provincial Museum America (Dandong) 447
Long March 262–3 (Lanzhou) 16, 489 Museum of Yin Ruins (Anyang)
Lu Shan 258–9 Great Wall Museum (Dandong) 158
Maiji Shan 484–5 447 Nanjing Museum (Nanjing) 232
Ming Shan 358 Great Wall Museum (Jiayuguan)
Pamir Mountains 495, 507 494
The Peak (Hong Kong) 318–19

GENERAL INDEX 637

Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Nan Putuo Si (Xiamen) 292
National Art Museum of China Taiping Heavenly Kingdom Nan Yue Palace Gardens
(Beijing) 100 History Museum (Nanjing) 228
Nationality Museum (Wuzhi Tea Museum (Hangzhou) 246 (Guangzhou) 304
Shan City) 310 Tianjixiang Museum (Pingyao) Nan Yue Tomb (Guangzhou) 306
Ningxia Provincial Museum 145 Nanchan Si (Wutai Shan) 142
(Yinchuan) 479 Tibet Museum (Lhasa) 533 Nanchang 245, 256–7
Overseas Chinese Museum Tujia Museum (Furongzhen)
(Xiamen) 292 267 hotels 560
Peasant Movement Institute Turpan Museum (Turpan) 508 map 257
(Guangzhou) 304 Wang Shi Xiao Yuan (Yangzhou) restaurants 578
Porcelain Museum 227 Nanchang Uprising (1927) 183
(Jingdezhen) 261 Wen Miao (Wuwei) 494 Nanguan Mosque (Linxia) 488
Pottery Exhibition Hall (Yixing) Wenya Museum (Jinzhou) 446 Nanguan Mosque (Yinchuan) 479
224 Wuxi Museum (Wuxi) 222 Nanhua Si (Shaoguan) 309
Provincial Museum (Fuzhou) Xianyang City Museum Nanjing 183, 209, 228–37
298 (Xianyang) 176 food and drink 186
Provincial Museum (Guiyang) Xinjiang Provincial Museum hotels 560
404 (Ürümqi) 17, 510 map 229
Provincial Museum (Harbin) 456 Yan’an Revolutionary Museum Purple Mountain 234–6
Provincial Museum (Hefei) 239 (Yan’an) 177 restaurants 577
Provincial Museum (Kunming) Yangzhou Museum (Yangzhou) Treaty of 69, 189
380 226 Visitors’ Checklist 229
Provincial Museum (Nanchang) Yantai Museum (Yantai) 154 Zhonghua Gate 230–31
257 Yong Ling Museum (Chengdu) Nanjing Massacre (1937) 233
Provincial Museum (Nanning) 364 Memorial (Purple Mountain)
429 Zhenjiang Museum (Zhenjiang) 237
Provincial Museum (Wuwei) 224 Nanjing Museum (Nanjing) 232
494 Zigong Salt Museum (Zigong) Nanjing Road (Shanghai) 12, 194,
Qingdao Museum 153 361 203
Qingyun Pu (Nanchang) 257 Nanjing Yangzi River Bridge
Quanzhou Maritime Museum Music 46 (Nanjing) 233
297 Beijing Opera 80–81, 119, 590 Nanking see Nanjing
Red Gate Gallery (Beijing) 101 discos and karaoke 591 Nanning 429
Revolutionary Museum festivals 53 hotels 562
(Nanchang) 256 Hong Kong 338, 339 Nanping 240
Rishenchang (Pingyao) 144 rock and pop music 591 Nanshan Si (Wutai Shan) 142
Sanxingdui Museum 11, 15, Shanghai 206, 207 Nanwu Chaoxi Si (Huanglong Xi)
366 Sichuan opera 366 374
Shaanxi History Museum (Xi’an) traditional music 591 Nanyan Gong (Wudang Shan)
16, 167, 172–3 278
Shandong Provincial Museum Muslims and Islam 511 Nanyue 267
(Jinan) 148 Aba Khoja Mausoleum Nanyue Damiao (Heng Shan) 267
Shanghai Art Museum 194, 195 (Kashgar) 516–17 Nanzhao Kingdom 348, 380, 394
Shanghai History Museum 195 Arab traders 284 Nathan Road (Hong Kong) 322,
Shanghai Museum 12–13, 196– Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) 336
7, 206, 207 104 National Art Museum of China
Shanxi Provincial Museum food and drink 83 (Beijing) 100
(Taiyuan) 143 Garden Tomb of Puhaddin National Day 53
Sichuan Museum (Chengdu) (Yangzhou) 227 National Theater (Beijing) 47, 119
365 Great Mosque (Xi’an) 169 Nationalist Party see Kuomintang
Site of the First National Huaisheng Mosque (KMT )
Congress of the Chinese (Guangzhou) 305 Nationality Museum (Wuzhi Shan
Communist Party (Shanghai) Islamic Cemetery (Guangzhou) City) 310
200 306–7 Nature preserves
Song Qingling’s Former Muslim Uprising (1856) 348 Changbai Shan Reserve 443,
Residence (Shanghai) 204 in Xinjiang 507 454–5
Stilwell Museum (Chongqing) see also Mosques Chishui 416
357 Everest Base Camp 550
Sun Yat-sen Memorial Mutianyu 114 Hanas Lake Nature Reserve 512
Residence (Shanghai) 13, 200 Muzong emperor 58 Jianfeng Ling Nature Reserve
Sun Yat-sen’s Residence Myanmar 379, 390–91, 395 311
(Cuiheng) 308 Myths and Mountains 593, 595 Longrui Nature Preserve 430
Suzhou Museum (Suzhou) 210 Mengda Nature Reserve 503
Suzhou Silk Museum (Suzhou) N Shennongjia Forest reserve 183,
210 265, 278
Na-Li (Beijing) 118, 119 Wanglang Nature Reserve 355,
Nadam Fair 52 375
Nakchu Horse Race Festival 52
Namtso Lake 523, 546–7

638 GENERAL INDEX

Nature preserves (cont.) Northern Wei dynasty 59, 61, 138 P
Wulingyuan Nature Preserve Northwest Airlines 613
270–71 Northwest Yunnan Ecotourism Pacific Hotel (Shanghai) 194
Zhalong Nature Reserve 409, Pacific Place (Hong Kong) 336,
443, 458 Association 595
Novels 35 337
Naxi people 30, 349, 399 Novotel 557 Padmasambhava 524
Dongba Research Institute Nowrojee, Dorabjee 321 Page One (Beijing) 118, 119
(Lijiang) 398 Nu, U 388 Pagodas 41, 171
No. 1 Department Store
Nechung Monastery (Lhasa) Bai Ta (Hohhot) 475
540–41 (Shanghai) 206, 207 Baisikou Shuang Ta 480
Nunneries Beisi Ta (Suzhou) 210
Nengren Si (Jiujiang) 258 Big Wild Goose Pagoda (Xi’an)
Neolithic period 57, 78 Ani Tsankhung Nunnery (Lhasa) 167, 170, 491
Nepal border 550, 551 533 Fan Pagoda (Kaifeng) 157
Nestorian Christianity 168 Fulu Buddhist Nunnery Gongtang Pagoda 487
New Territories 327 (Sanjiang) 426 Great Goose Pagoda (Xi’an) 16,
New Year Nuorilang Falls 376 167, 170, 491
Nuoyu 400 Haibao Ta (Yinchuan) 479
Chinese 48, 53 Nurhachi 68, 438, 444 Iron Pagoda (Kaifeng) 156
Tibetan 50 tomb of 445 Ligong Pagoda (Hangzhou) 247
Western 53 Linggu Pagoda (Nanjing) 235,
Newspapers 611 O 236
Night Market (Beijing) 100 North Pagoda (Shenyang) 444
Night Market (Shigatse) 548 Observatories Qianxun Ta (Dali) 379
Nightclubs Ancient Observatory (Beijing) Qiji Futu Pagoda (Harbin) 457
Beijing 119 100–101 Riming Shuang Ta (Guilin) 420
Hong Kong 338, 339 Purple Mountain Observatory Ruiguang Pagoda (Suzhou) 219
Shanghai 207 (Nanjing) 234, 236 San Ta (Dali) 392–3
Nine Dragon Screen (Beijing) 96 Shengjin Ta Pagoda (Nanchang)
Nine Horse Fresco Hill 423 Ocean Park (Hong Kong) 328–9, 257
Ningbo 245, 252 338, 339 Shuang Ta (Suzhou) 216
Ningxia province 466, 467, 473 Si Men Pagoda (Jinan) 148
hotels 563 Old Protestant Cemetery (Macau) Six Harmonies Pagoda
map 473 332 (Hangzhou) 247
restaurants 584 Small Goose Pagoda (Xi’an) 167,
Ningxia Provincial Museum Old Racecourse (Shanghai) 195, 170
(Yinchuan) 479 203 Songyang Si Pagoda
Ningzong emperor 59 (Songshan) 164
Ninth Dragon Screen (Forbidden Old Summer Palace see Wat Ben Pagoda 388
City) 95 Yuanming Yuan Wenfeng Pagoda (Anyang) 158
Nixon, Richard 73, 292 Wu Ta Si (Hohhot) 475
No Name Bar (Beijing) 119 Old Town (Kashgar) 514 Xi Si Ta (Kunming) 381
Nomads 528–9 Olympic Games 592 Yan’an Bao Pagoda (Yan’an) 177
Mongols of the Steppe 468–9 108 Dagobas (Ningxia) 481 Yingxian Pagoda 171
Tibet 525 Opal (Kashgar) 515 Zhe Ta (Wuhu) 339
Noonday Gun (Hong Kong) 317 Opening hours 600 Paintballing 594
Norbulingka (Lhasa) 533 Paintings see Arts and crafts
North Korea 443, 446–7 banks 608 Pak Tai Temple (Cheung Chau
North Pagoda (Shenyang) 444 restaurants 566 Island) 330
North Tomb (Shenyang) 445 shops 586 Pak Tam Chung Visitor Centre (Sai
Northeast China 433–61 Opera Kung Town) 327
Changbai Shan 454–5 Beijing Opera 80–81, 119, 590 Pakistan 507, 518
forests 28 festivals 52 Palace Hotel (Shanghai) 193
fossils 459 model operas 71 Palace Museum (Forbidden City)
hotels 562–3 Museum of Opera and Theater 92–5
Liaoning, Jilin and Heilongjiang (Suzhou) 211 Palaces
443–61 Sichuan opera 366 Ganden Palace (Lhasa) 540
Manchu dynasty 438–9 Opium Wars 69, 284, 428 Imperial Palace (Shenyang) 438,
maps 434–5 Orange Pavilion (Suzhou) 213 444
peoples 31 Orchid Garden (Guangzhou) Jinjiang Prince’s Palace (Guilin)
Portrait of Northeast China 306–7 421
436–7 Oriental Pearl TV Tower Ming Palace Ruins (Nanjing) 232
restaurants 583–4 (Shanghai) 195 Palace of Abstinence
River Border minorities 461 Oroqen people 31, 461 (Forbidden City) 95
Trans Siberian Express 440–41 Otani, Count 499 Palace of Earthly Tranquillity
see also Beijing and the North Ou Yuan (Suzhou) 210 (Forbidden City) 94
Northern Dynasties 59, 61 Our Lady of China (Shanghai) 205
Northern Song dynasty 59, 65 Our Lady of Lourdes (Shamian
Island) 307
Overseas Chinese Museum
(Xiamen) 292
Overseas Chinese Tropical Farm
(Xinglong) 310

GENERAL INDEX 639

Palaces (cont.) Parks and gardens (individual) Parks and gardens (individual)
Palace of Eternal Harmony (cont.) (cont.)
(Forbidden City) 94–5 Huangpu Park (Shanghai) 201 Yu Gardens and Bazaar
Palace of Heavenly Purity Humble Administrator’s Garden (Shanghai) 12, 198–9
(Forbidden City) 94 (Suzhou) 212–13 Yuanming Yuan (Garden of
Palace of Peaceful Longevity Imperial Gardens (Forbidden Perfect Brightness, Beijing) 109,
(Forbidden City) 95 City) 94 439
Potala Palace 538–9 Jiangxin Park (Wenzhou) 253 Yuexiu Park (Guangzhou) 307
Puppet Emperor’s Palace Jin Shan Park (Zhenjiang) 224 Yuhuangding Park (Yantai) 154
(Changchun) 437, 452 Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 12, 96 Yuhuatai (Nanjing) 237
Summer Palace (Beijing) 12, Jinhua Cha Gardens 429 Zhaolin Park (Harbin) 456
106–8 Lan Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou)
Summer Palace (Lhasa) 533 489 Parkway Green Fangcaodi
Lianfengshan Park (Beidaihe) 134 (Beijing) 118, 119
Pamir Mountains 467, 507 Liu Yuan (Suzhou) 217
The “Great Game” 495 Longting Park (Kaifeng) 157 Passports 598–9
Karakoram Highway 518 Lu Xun Park (Shanghai) 204 security 604
Manting Park (Jinghong) 388
Pan Men Scenic Area (Suzhou) Mei Yuan (Taihu) 222 Pavilion of a Thousand Autumns
218–19 Nan Yue Palace Gardens (Forbidden City) 94
(Guangzhou) 304
Panchen Lamas Norbulingka (Lhasa) 533 Peace Hotel (Shanghai) 193
11th Panchen Lama 548 Old Racecourse (Shanghai) 195, The Peak (Hong Kong) 13, 318–19
Chengde 129 203 Peak Tower (Hong Kong) 319
Tashilunpo Monastery Orchid Garden (Guangzhou) Peak Tram (Hong Kong) 319
(Shigatse) 548, 549 306–7 Pearl river 284, 301
Ou Yuan (Suzhou) 210
Pandas 367 Pan Men Scenic Area (Suzhou) Mai Po Marshes 327
Panda Breeding Center 11, 15, 218–19 Pearl-Beach Falls, Jiuzhai Gou
366 People’s Park (Shanghai) 12,
Wanglang Nature Reserve 375 194 tour 376
Qianling Shan Park (Guiyang) Peasant Movement Institute
Panjiayuan Market (Beijing) 118, 405
119 Qixing Gongyuan (Guilin) 420 (Guangzhou) 304
Renmin Park (Chengdu) 365 Pei, I.M. 210, 316
Panlong 430 Renmin Park (Nanning) 429 Peking Man site 117
Park Hotel (Shanghai) 194 Shizi Lin (Suzhou) 210 Pelkor Chode Monastery
Park Hyatt 557 Shou Xi Hu (Yangzhou) 226
Parks and gardens (general) Shuzhuang Garden (Gulangyu (Gyantse) 547
Island) 293 Pelliot, Paul 499, 513
admission charges 600 Stalin Park (Harbin) 456 Peng Dehui 259
playing games in 590 Summer Palace (Beijing) 106–8 Penglai Pavilion 155
traditional Chinese gardens Sun Island Park (Harbin) 456 Penholder Peak, Li river cruise
184–5 Tiger Hill (Suzhou) 217
Parks and gardens (individual) Tropical Botanical Gardens 423
Bailuzhou Park (Nanjing) 228 (Xishuangbanna) 350 Peninsula Hotels 557
Baita Shan Gongyuan Tropical Flower and Plant Penjing 185
(Lanzhou) 488 Garden (Jinghong) 388 Peoples of China 30–31
Bayi Park (Nanchang) 256 Tuisi Yuan (Tongli) 222
Beihai Park (Beijing) 96 Victoria Park (Hong Kong) 317 see also Ethnic minorities
Beijing Botanical Gardens 109 Victoria Peak Garden (Hong People’s Hall (Lu Shan) 259
Botanic Gardens (Menglun) 390 Kong) 318 People’s Liberation Army (PLA),
Botanical Gardens (Nanjing) Wangshi Yuan (Suzhou) 216
236 Wanshi Botanical Garden Cultural Revolution 70, 71
Canglang Ting (Suzhou) 216–17 (Xiamen) 292 People’s Park and Square
Cui Hu Gongyuan (Kunming) Wuquan Shan Gongyuan
380 (Lanzhou) 489 (Shanghai) 12, 194
Danxia Shan 309 Xi Yuan (Suzhou) 217 Period of Disunity 59
Di Tan Park (Beijing) 99 Xiang Shan Park (Beijing) 109 Permits 599
Donghai Park (Dalian) 450 Xihui Park (Wuxi) 222 Personal security 604–5
Fuxing Park (Shanghai) 13, 200 Xinglong Tropical Botanical Phagpa 550
Ge Yuan (Yangzhou) 226 Gardens 310 Pharmacies 605
Haigeng Park (Lake Dian) 383 Xu Yuan (Nanjing) 229 Philosophy 36–7
He Yuan (Yangzhou) 227 Xuanwu Lake (Nanjing) 232
Heilong Tan Gongyuan (Lijiang) Yantai Shan Park (Yantai) 154 qi 38–9
398 Yi Yuan (Suzhou) 216 Photography 601
Hong Kong Zoological &
Botanical Gardens 13, 317 etiquette 602
Hongshan Park (Ürümqi) 510 Phrase book 656–60
Huagang Garden (Hangzhou) Pileguo 394
248 Ping An 426
Huanglong Dong Park Pingdi emperor 58
(Hangzhou) 246 Pingliang 490
Pingxiang 430–31
Pingyao 41, 127, 144–5

restaurants 574
Pinyin script 33, 600
Plants 26–9

bamboo 417
ginseng 454

640 GENERAL INDEX

Plants (cont.) Pudong (Shanghai) 189, 193, 195 Qin Shi (huangdi) emperor (cont.)
plant hunters 351 Puhaddin, Garden Tomb of Great Wall of China 112
Southwest China 350–51 Heng Shan 137
see also Parks and gardens Puhaddin (Yangzhou) 227 Penglai 155
Puji Si (Putuo Shan) 254 Terracotta Army 60, 79, 167,
Plaza 66 (Shanghai) 194 Pule Si (Chengde) 129, 134 174–5
Plum Blossom Hill (Purple Puning Si (Chengde) 40, 129, tomb of 175

Mountain) 236 130–31 Qing dynasty 59, 68–9
Plum Monastery (Zhaoqing) 308 Puntsok Palace 550 Eastern Qing Tombs 115
Po Lin Monastery (Lantau Island) Puppet Emperor’s Palace literature 34, 35
Manchu dynasty 438–9
330–31 (Changchun) 437, 452 porcelain 261
“Pockmarked Huang” 200, 203 Puppet theater 591 Summer Palace (Beijing) 106
Poetry, Tang 34 Purple Mountain (Nanjing) Taiping Rebellion 228
Pok Fu Lam Reservoir (Hong
234–6 Qing Ming Festival 51
Kong) 318 Pusa Ding (Wutai Shan) 141 Qing Teng Shu Wu (Shaoxing)
Police 604, 605 Putonghua (Chinese language)
Pollution 24, 606 252
Polo, Marco 66, 249, 471 32, 600 Qingcheng Shan 374
Putuo Shan 181, 245, 254–5 Qingdao 79, 147, 152–3, 592
and China’s Jews 157 Putuozongcheng Miao
in Fuzhou 298 hotels 559
in Hangzhou 246 (Chengde) 128 map 152–3
Hualin Si (Guangzhou) 304 Puzhao Si (Tai Shan) 150 restaurants 574–5
Marco Polo Bridge 116 Qingdao International Beer
Yangzi river 182 Q Festival 52
Pop music 591 Qingdao Museum (Qingdao) 153
Porcelain see Ceramics Qantas 613 Qinghai Hu 465, 467, 483, 503
Port Arthur see Lushun Qi 38–9 Qinghai province 466, 467, 483
Portugal hotels 563
food and drink in Macau 335 traditional medicine 238 map 483
and Macau 284, 313, 332 Qi Fo Si (Wutai Shan) 141 restaurants 584–5
Postal services 610 Qian Bu Sha (Putuo Shan) 255 Qingjing Mosque (Quanzhou)
Poste restante 610–11 Qian Ling (Xi’an) 176 297
Potala Palace (Lhasa) 525, 538–9 Qian Men (Beijing) 12, 90 Qingning Palace (Shenyang) 444
Pottery see Ceramics Qingping Market (Guangzhou)
Pottery Exhibition Hall (Yixing) 224 Street-by-Street map 88 304
Pousada São Tiago (Macau) 334 Qian Men Carpet Company Qingshan (Baotou) 476
Poyang, Lake 245 Qingyang 405
Praia Grande (Macau) 333 (Beijing) 118, 119 Qingyang Gong (Chengdu) 349,
Precious Clouds Pavilion Qiang people 377 364
(Summer Palace, Beijing) 108 Qianling Shan Park (Guiyang) 405 Qingyin Ge (Emei Shan) 369
Prescription Cave (Longmen Qianlong emperor 59, 68, 128, Qingyuan 309
Caves) 161 Qingyuan Shan 297
Prescription drugs 605 438, 439 Qinian Dian (Beijing) 103
Prince Gong’s Mansion (Beijing) Baoguang Si 366 Qinzong emperor 59, 65
12, 96, 119 Beijing Opera 80 Qiongzhong 310
Printing 43 Chengde 129 Qiongzhu Si (Kunming) 382
Prosperity 48–9 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Qiqiha’er 458, 460
Protestant Church (Qingdao) 152 food customs and etiquette Qixia Shan (Hangzhou) 246
Provincial Museum (Guiyang) 404 569 Qixia Si (Nanjing) 237
Provincial Museum (Kunming) 380 Great Bell Temple (Beijing) 109 Qixing Gongyuan (Guilin) 420
Provincial Museum (Nanchang) Marco Polo Bridge 116 Qixing Yan 308
257 Prince Gong’s Mansion (Beijing) Qu Yuan 51
Pu Songling 153 96 Quanzhou 291, 297
Pu Yi, Emperor 59, 69, 72, 452 Puning Si (Chengde) 130 Quanzhou Maritime Museum
abdication 95 Summer Palace (Beijing) 106, 297
Beijing Botanical Gardens 109 108 Qufu 79, 148–9
and Manchukuo 437, 443, 452 and Xiangfei 516 Qutang Xia 359
Puppet Emperor’s Palace Yangzhou 226
(Changchun) 437, 452 Yuanming Yuan (Beijing) 109, R
tomb of 115 439
Public holidays 53, 556, 600 Qianming Si (Guiyang) 404 Rabies 607
Public Security Bureau (PSB) 599, Qiantang river 248 Radio 611
604 Qianxun Ta (Dali) 379, 392 Radisson 557
Public toilets 605 Qiao Guifa 145 Railways see Trains
Pubs Qiao Jia Dayuan 145 Ramada 557
Beijing 119 Qidan people 64 Ramoche (Lhasa) 532
Hong Kong 338, 339 Qigong 38
Qiji Futu Pagoda (Harbin) 457
Qilian Shan 494
Qin dynasty 59, 60
Qin Shi (huangdi) emperor 59, 60,
151, 167
and Confucius 149

GENERAL INDEX 641

Red (Shanghai) 207 Rock and pop music 591 Secluded Pavilion of Firmiana
Red Army Rong Hu (Guilin) 14, 420 Simplex and Bamboo (Suzhou)
Rongphu Monastery 550 213
cult of Mao 268 Rongshui river 426
Long March 72, 262, 377 Room With a View (Shanghai) Security 604–5
Nanchang Uprising 183 Sera Monastery (Lhasa) 525, 541
Zunyi Conference 416 207 Service charges, in hotels 555
Red Basin 355 Rua de Felicidade (Macau) 334 Seventeen-arch Bridge (Summer
Red Gate Gallery (Beijing) 101 Rugby 592, 595
Red Guard 70 Ruifuxiang (Beijing) 91 Palace, Beijing) 108
Red Palace (Lhasa) 538, 539 Ruiguang Pagoda (Suzhou) 219 SEVVA (Hong Kong) 338
Red Turbans 66 Ruijin Guesthouse (Shanghai) 200 Sexually transmitted diseases 607
Reform Movement 69 Ruili 395 Sha Tin Racecourse (Hong Kong)
Rehai 395 Ruinas de São Paulo (Macau) 13,
Religion 25, 36–7 338, 339
festivals 50 332 Shaanxi History Museum (Xi’an)
see also Buddhism; Christianity; Ruizong emperor 58
Muslims and Islam Russia 16, 167, 172–3
Renmin Park (Chengdu) 364 Shaanxi province 78, 167–77
Renmin Square (Dalian) 450 The “Great Game” 495, 547
Renzong emperor 59 and Harbin 437, 443, 456 hotels 559
Repulse Bay 329 Russian Orthodox Church 202, map 167
Resonant Sand Gorge 476 456 restaurants 575
Restaurants 564–85 Ruzhen (Jurchen) people 64 Shadow plays 591
air conditioning 606 Ruzi emperor 58 Shamian Island 304, 306–7
bargaining 603 map 306–7
customs and etiquette 568–9 S Shan Hu (Guilin) 14, 420
ethnic food 567 Shandong province 78, 79, 147
etiquette 602 Sacred Heart Church food and drink 82–3
fast food 567 (Guangzhou) 304 hotels 559
in hotels 566 map 147
opening hours 566 Safety 604–5 restaurants 574–5
service charges 569 Sai Kung Town and Peninsula Shandong Provincial Museum
smoking in 603 (Jinan) 148
themed restaurants 567 Beaches (Hong Kong) 326–7 Shang Cai Dong (Wutai Shan) 141
tipping in 569 St. Joseph’s Church (Beijing) 100 Shang City Walls (Zhengzhou)
vegetarian food 567 St. Mary’s Church (Beijing) 91 158
Western restaurants 567 St. Michael’s Church (Qingdao) Shang dynasty 57, 58, 78
see also Food and drink oracle bones 32, 158
Retreat in the Qingbian Mountain 152 Shangdi emperor 58
(Wang Meng) 197 Sakya Monastery 524, 525, 550 Shangfeng Si (Heng Shan) 267
Revolutionary Museum Sakya Pandita 550 Shanghai 22, 182–3, 189–207
(Nanchang) 256 Sakya Yeshe 541 air travel 613, 615
Ricci, Matteo 67 Salt banks 608
astronomy 100 Bund 12, 182, 189, 192–3, 201,
and China’s Jews 157 mining salt in Sichuan 361 203
South Cathedral (Beijing) 91 Zigong 361 climate 55
Xujiahui Catholic Cathedral Salween river 379, 531 entertainment 206–7
(Shanghai) 205 Sam’s Tailor (Hong Kong) 337 food and drink 186
Zhaoqing 308 Samye Monastery 524, 544–5 hospitals 605
Rice 286–7 San Ta (Dali) 14, 392–3 hotels 559–60
terraces 410–11 Sanche river 407 Huangpu river 201
Rice wine 571 Sangke 486 map 190–91
Richtofen, Baron von 470 Sani people 384 Old Shanghai 203
Rickshaws, motorcycle 621 Sanjiang 426–7 Public Security Bureau (PSB)
Rinpoche, Guru 544, 545 Sanqing Si (Western Hills) 383 599
Rishenchang (Pingyao) 144 Sanshan Island (Taihu) 222 restaurants 575–7
Ritz Carlton 557 Sanxingdui 349 Shanghai Museum 12–13,
River Border 460 Sanxingdui Museum 11, 15, 366 196–7
minority peoples 461 Sanya 311 shopping 206–7
River cruises restaurants 580 skiing 593
Li river cruise 422–3 Sanyang Feng 298 subway 620
Yangzi cruise 358–60 SARS (severe acute respiratory Two Days in Shanghai 10,
River Promenade (Shanghai) 192 syndrome) 606–7 12–13
Riyue Shuang Ta (Guilin) 420 Sassoon, Sir Victor 193 Yu Gardens and Bazaar 12,
Road names 621 Sayram Lake 512 198–9
Rock, Joseph 351, 396 Schall von Bell, Adam 100, 439 Shanghai Art Museum 194, 195
Schistosomiasis 607 Shanghai Center 194, 206, 207
Science Museum (Hong Kong) Shanghai Circus World 206, 207
322 Shanghai Dramatic Arts Center
Scripts 32–3 206, 207
calligraphy 33, 225
Naxi script 399

642 GENERAL INDEX

Shanghai Exhibition Center 202 Shenzong emperor 59 Si Men Pagoda (Jinan) 148
Shanghai Film Art Center 207 Sher Ali 495 Siberia 460, 464, 473
Shanghai Grand Theater 194, 206, Sheraton 557 Sichuan earthquake 367, 374, 375
Sheung Wan’s Markets (Hong Sichuan Museum (Chengdu) 365
207 Sichuan opera 366
Shanghai History Museum 195 Kong) 13, 321 Sichuan province 349, 355–77
Shanghai International Film Shexian 209, 240
Shi De 217 carvings of Dazu 362–3
Festival 51 Shi Lin (Stone Forest) 379, 384–5, Dafo (Le Shan) 11, 370–73
Shanghai Museum 12–13, 196–7, Emei Shan 368–9
418 food and drink 352
206, 207 Shi Tao 226 giant pandas 367
Shanghai Music Conservatory Shiba Pan (Tai Shan) 150 hotels 562
Shibao Zhai 358, 360 map 355
Auditorium 206, 207 Shibing 415 restaurants 581–2
Shanghai No. 1 Department Shidebala 58 salt mines 361
Shidong 414 A Week in Sichuan and
Store 194 Shidu 117 Chongqing 11, 15
Shanghai Oriental Art Center 206, Shigatse 548–9 Yangzi cruise 358–60
Sidong Gou 416
207 hotels 563 Sifang Jie (Lijiang) 397
Shanghai Pearl City (Shanghai) map 549 Silk 214–15
restaurants 585 Hetian Silk Factory (Khotan) 519
206, 207 Shijiazhuang 136 Silk Embroidery Research
Shanghai Pudong Development Shin Kong Place (Beijing) 118, Institute (Suzhou) 216
119 Suzhou Silk Museum (Suzhou)
Bank 192 Ship Lifting Tower (Three Gorges 210
Shanghai Tang (Hong Kong) 337 Dam) 275 What to Buy in China 589
Shanghai Urban Planning Shipaotai Gongyuan (Shantou) Silk Roads 60, 66, 348, 470–71
302 Baoshan 394
Exhibition 194 Shishao 406 Burma Road 383
Shanghai World Financial Center Shizhang Dong 416 Dunhuang 498
Shizi Lin (Suzhou) 180, 210 Hexi Corridor 483
195 Shizi Yan 309 Karakoram Highway 518
Shangqing Gong (Qingcheng Shizong emperor 64 Kashgar 514
Shopping 586–9 Khotan 519
Shan) 374 antiques shops 118, 206, 336, Race for the Silk Road Oases
Shangri-La Hotels 557 587 499
Shangyong 390 bargaining 586, 603 Silk Road 519
Shanhaiguan 127, 134 Beijing 118–19 The Spread of Buddhism
Shanhua Si (Datong) 137 department stores and 491
Shanshan Gan Guild Hall boutiques 118, 336, 587 Tengchong 395
Hong Kong and Macau 336–7 Turpan 508
(Kaifeng) 156 how to pay 586 Two Weeks on the Silk Road 10,
Shantou 302 opening hours 586 16–17
Shanxi province 78, 79, 127 Shanghai 206–7 Xi’an 168
shopping malls 587 Xinjiang 507
hotels 558–9 What to Buy in China 588–9 Yarkand 519
map 127 see also Markets Yengisar 518
restaurants 573–4 Shoton (Yoghurt festival) 52 see also Inner Mongolia and the
Shanxi Provincial Museum Shou Ning Si (Wutai Shan) 141 Silk Roads
(Taiyuan) 143 Shou Xi Hu (Yangzhou) 226 Sima Qian 34
Shao Shan 265, 266, 268 Shu kingdom 59, 349 Simatai 114
Shaoguan 309 Shuang Ta (Suzhou) 216 Simplified script 33
Shaolin International Martial Arts Shuanglin Si 145 Sino-Japanese War (1894-5) 69,
Festival 52 Shuijing Xiang Market (Xining) 154
Shaolin Temple 147, 164, 165, 502 Lushun (Port Arthur) 451
594 Shuilian Dong (Huangguoshu Museum of the 1895 Sino-
Shaoxing 245, 252 Falls) 407 Japanese War (Weihai) 155
restaurants 578 Shuilian Dong (Wuyi Shan) 298 Site of the First National Congress
Shaping 394 Shundi emperor 58 of the Chinese Communist
Shapotou 465, 480 Shunzhi emperor 59 Party (Shanghai) 200
Shaw, George Bernard 204 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Six Harmonies Pagoda
Shaxi 394–5 Imperial Palace (Shenyang) 444 (Hangzhou) 247
She Shan (Shanghai) 205 Shunzong emperor 58 Skiing 593
Sheli Ta (Baoguang Si) 366 Shuzheng Zhai, Jiuzhai Gou tour Sleeping Buddha Temple
Shen Nong emperor 299 376 (Beijing) 109
Shengjin Ta Pagoda (Nanchang) Shuzhuang Garden (Gulangyu
257 Island) 293
Shenhai Well (Zigong) 361
Shennong Xi 15, 359, 360
Shennongjia 183, 265, 278
Shenyang 436, 438, 443, 444–5
hotels 563
map 445
restaurant 584
Shenzhen 301, 302
hotels 561
restaurants 580

GENERAL INDEX 643

Small Wild Goose Pagoda (Xi’an) Southwest China (cont.) Summer Palace (Beijing) 12, 78,
167, 170 map 346–7 106–8
peoples 30 Visitors’ Checklist 107
Smoking 603 Portrait of Southwest China
Soccer 592, 595 348–9 Summer Palace (Lhasa) 533
Soft drinks 570 restaurants 581–3 Sun Asia Ocean World (Dalian)
Sogo (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Sichuan and Chongqing 355–
Sok Kwu Wan 330 77 450–51
Song dynasty 59, 64, 65 Yunnan 379–401 Sun Island Park (Harbin) 456
Sun protection 606
Central China 183 Souvenirs 588–9 Sun Yat-sen 69, 204, 303, 310
Gongyi 164 Special Economic Zones 73
porcelain 261 Specialist holidays 592–5 at Guilin 421
Song Jiang 205 Spectator sports 590, 592 birthplace 308
Song Shan 147 Spelunking 595 Hong Kong 320
Songhua Lake 453 Splendid China (Shenzhen) 302 Kuomintang 72
Songhua river 453 Sports 592–5 Mausoleum (Nanjing) 234, 235,
Songpan 355, 375 236
Songshan 164 Hong Kong 338, 339 Museum of Dr. Sun Yat-sen
Songtsen Gampo spectator sports 590, 592 (Nanjing) 235, 236
Jokhang Temple (Lhasa) 536–7 Spring in China 50–51 Nanjing 228, 229
King 524 Spring City 592, 595 Purple Mountain (Nanjing) 236
Potala Palace (Lhasa) 538 Spring Festival (Chin Jie) 48, 50 Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall
Ramoche (Lhasa) 532 Stalin, Joseph 105 (Guangzhou) 307
Songyang Academy (Songshan) Stalin Park (Harbin) 456 Sun Yat-sen Memorial
164 Stanley 329 Residence (Shanghai) 13, 200
Songyang Si Pagoda (Songshan) markets 336, 337 Wuhan 272
164 Star Ferry (Hong Kong) 13, 321 Xiang Shan Park (Beijing) 109
Soong Ailing 204 Star House (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Sunday Market (Kashgar) 514
Soong Meiling 204, 259, 310 Stein, Sir Aurel 499, 500 Sunlight Rock (Gulangyu Island)
Soong Qingling 303 Steppes 475 293
Soong Qingling’s Former grassland 28 Sunni Muslims 511
Residence (Shanghai) 204 Mongols of the Steppe 468–9 Suyu Kou 480
Sun Yat Sen Memorial Steppes of China, landscape 27 Suzhe cuisine 187
Residence (Shanghai) 200 Steppes Travel 593, 595 Suzhou 183, 209, 210–21
Wenchang 310 Stilwell, General air travel 615
Soong, T.V. 204 Burma Road 383 hotels 560
South Cathedral (Beijing) 91 Stilwell Museum (Chongqing) Humble Administrator’s Garden
South China 281–343 357 212–13
food and drink 288–9 Stomach upsets 606 map 211
Fujian 291–9 Stone Forest (Shi Lin) 10, 14, 379, Pan Men Scenic Area (Suzhou)
Guangdong and Hainan 301– 384–5, 418 218–19
11 Stone Sutra Valley (Tai Shan) 151 Public Security Bureau (PSB)
Hong Kong and Macau 313–43 Street food 566 599
hotels 561 Studio City (Shanghai) 207 restaurants 577
map 282–3 Stupa Forest Temple 116 Visitors’ Checklist 211
peoples 31 Stupas 171 Suzhou Museum (Suzhou) 210
Portrait of the South 284–5 Su Causeway (Hangzhou) 249 Suzhou Silk Museum 210
restaurants 579–81 Su Dongpo 564 Suzong emperor 58
rice 286–7 Forest of Stelae Museum (Xi’an) Swatow see Chaozhou; Shantou
South China Sea 301 168 Swimming 592
South Gate (Yinchuan) 479 Liu Rong Si (Guangzhou) 305 Symbolism
South Lake Island (Summer Su Causeway (Hangzhou) 249 dragons 94
Palace, Beijing) 108 Wugong Si (Haikou) 310 Eight Auspicious Symbols 546
Southeast Corner Watchtower Yizhou Pavilion (Changzhou) food 565
(Beijing) 101 224
Southern Dynasties 59, 61 Su Zimei 216 T
Southern Song dynasty 59, 65 Subashi Gucheng 513
Hangzhou 246 Subways Tableware 569
Southwest China 345–431 Beijing 620 Ta’er Si 466, 467, 483, 504–5
bamboo 417 Shanghai 620 Tai ji quan (Tai Chi) 279
Chinese cranes 409 Sui (court official) 274 Tai Long Wan 326, 327
flora of Southwest China 350– Sui dynasty 59, 61, 167 Tai Mo Shan 327
51 Sui Wen Di emperor 223 Tai O 330, 331
food and drink 352–3 Sui Yandi emperor 223 Tai Shan 78, 79, 99, 147, 150–51
Guizhou and Guangxi 403–31 Suleiman, Prince 508
hotels 562 Summer in China 51–2 map 150–51
karst 418–19 weather 54, 606 Tai Shan Miao (Wudang Shan)

278
Tai’an, Tai Shan 150–51

644 GENERAL INDEX

Tai’an Temple (Qingcheng Shan) Temples (individual) Theater 47
374 Baoguang Si 366 Beijing 118, 119
Confucian Temple (Suzhou) Beijing Opera 80–81, 119, 590
Taichang emperor 58, 67 217 Museum of Opera and Theater
Taihu 183, 222 Confucius Temple (Beijing) 99 (Suzhou) 211
Taihua Si (Western Hills) 383 Dong Yue Miao (Beijing) 99 shadow plays and puppet
Taihuai 140 Eight Immortals Temple (Xi’an) theater 591
Taijiang 414 167, 170 Shanghai 206, 207
Taikoo Li (Beijing) 12, 118, 119 Fayuan Temple (Beijing) 104 traditional theater 119, 590–91
Taiping Rebellion (1851-64) 69, Great Bell Temple (Beijing)
109 Theft 604
265, 348, 428 Hanging Temple 127, 137 Theme parks
Jintian 429 Hanshan Si (Suzhou) 217
Suzhou Museum 210 Heng Shan 267 Fisherman’s Wharf (Macau) 334
Taiping Heavenly Kingdom Jade Buddha Temple Hong Kong Disneyland 331,
History Museum (Nanjing) 228 (Shanghai) 202 338, 339
Taiqing Temple (Lao Shan) 153 Jing’an Temple (Shanghai) 202 Ocean Park (Hong Kong) 328–9
Taiwan, Nationalist government Jiuhua Shan 240 Shenzhen 302
established in 72–3 Jokhang Temple (Lhasa) 534, Themed restaurants 567
Taiyuan 143 536–7 Third Moon Fair 51
hotels 558 Lama Temple (Beijing) 98–9 Thousand Buddha Caves (Kizil)
restaurants 574 Linggu Temple (Nanjing) 235, 17, 513
Taizong emperor 58, 59, 63 236 Thousand Buddha Cliffs (Nanjing)
Fayuan Temple (Beijing) 104 Man Mo Temple (Hong Kong) 237
tomb 176 13, 320 Thousand Buddha Mountain
Taizu emperor 59 Puning Si (Chengde) 129, (Jinan) 148
Tajiks 511 130–31 Three Gorges 11, 15, 276–7
Taklamakan Desert 467, 498, 507, Shaolin Temple 147, 164, 165 Three Gorges Dam 15, 73, 182,
519 Shuanglin Si 145 265, 274–5, 358–60
Tan Hao 138 Ta’er Si 504–5 Three Gorges Museum 356
Tan Kah Kee 292 Tai Shan 150–51 Yangzi cruise 358, 359
Tang An 427 Tanzhe Temple 116 Three Pools Reflecting the Moon
Tang Bo 256 Temple of Heaven (Beijing) 12, (Hangzhou) 248
Tang dynasty 58, 62–4, 167 76, 102–3 Tian Chi 17, 443, 454, 455, 507,
Buddhism 491 White Clouds Temple (Beijing) 510
poetry 34 104–5 Tian Hau Festival 51
porcelain 261 Wong Tai Sin Temple (Hong Tian Shan 467, 507
Tang Wenzong emperor 168 Kong) 323 Tian Tan (Temple of Heaven,
Tangyue 240 Wutai Shan 140–42 Beijing) 76, 102–3
Tanzhe Temple 116 see also individual towns and Tian’an Men (Beijing), Street-by-
Tao Qian 37 cities Street map 89
Tara Chapel (Lhasa) 540 Tian’an Men Square (Beijing) 12,
Tashi Dor 547 Temur Oljeitu 58 73
Tashilunpo Monastery (Shigatse) Ten Kingdoms 58, 64 Street-by-Street map 88–9
548–9 Ten Thousand Buddha Cave Tianchan Yifu Theater (Shanghai)
Tashkurgan 518 206, 207
Tatars 511 (Longmen Caves) 161 Tianchao Gong (Nanjing) 229
Taxes, air travel 613 10,000 Buddhas Monastery Tianhou (Empress of Heaven)
Taxis 155
airport 613, 615 (Hong Kong) 326 Tianhou Gong (Shantou) 302
in cities 621 Teng Wang Pavilion (Nanchang) Tianhou Temple (Tianjin) 135
Tayuan Si (Wutai Shan) 140 Tianjin 79, 135
Tea 285, 299 256–7 food and drink 83
Guiping 428–9 Tengchong 395 hotels 559
Longjing Village (Hangzhou) Tengger Desert 480 map 135
246 Terrace for Watching the Sunrise restaurants 574
Tea Museum (Hangzhou) 246 Tianjin Eye 135
What to Drink in China 570 (Heng Shan) 267 Tianjin province 127
Teachers’ Day 52 Terracotta Army 10, 16, 60, 79, hotels 558–9
Teahouses, Beijing 119 map 127
Telephones 610 167, 174–5 restaurants 573–4
dialling codes 611 Textiles Tianjixiang Museum (Pingyao)
Television 611 145
Temple Street Market (Hong Beijing shops 118, 119 Tianlong Shan Grottoes (Taiyuan)
Kong) 13, 323, 336, 337 Shanghai shops 206, 207 143
Temples (general) silk 214–15 Tianqi emperor 58
admission charges 600 Silk Embroidery Research Tianqiao Happy Teahouse
etiquette 602 Institute (Suzhou) 216 (Beijing) 119
Suzhou Silk Museum (Suzhou)
210
tours 593
What to Buy in China 589
Thangkas 540

GENERAL INDEX 645

Tianshi Dong (Qingcheng Shan) Tombs and cemeteries Travel (cont.)
374 Aba Khoja Mausoleum ferries and boats 619
(Kashgar) 517 Hong Kong 315
Tianshui 467 Astana 509 Inner Mongolia and the Silk
Tianshun emperor 58 Confucius Forest (Qufu) 149 Roads 464
Tiantai Buddhist sect 253 East Tomb (Shenyang) 445 local transport in cities 620–21
Tiantai Shan 253, 406 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Northeast China 435
Tiantai Zhengding (Jiuhua Shan) Gongyi 164 Shanghai 190
Hunan Provincial Museum South China 282
240 (Changsha) 266 Southwest China 346
Tianxing 407 Islamic Cemetery (Guangzhou) Tibet 523
Tianya Haijiao 311 306–7 trains 616–17
Tianye Ge (Ningbo) 252 King of Borneo’s Tomb (Nanjing) Trans Siberian Express 440–41
Tianyou Shan 298 237
Tianzhu Peak (Wudang Shan) Longhua Cemetery of Martyrs Travel insurance 599
(Shanghai) 205 Traveler’s checks 609
278 Mahao Cave Tombs (Le Shan)
Tianzi Ge (Wulingyuan) 271 371 in shops 586
Tibet 520–51 Ming Tombs (Beijing) 110–11 Tree-planting Day 50
Nan Yue Tomb (Guangzhou) Trekking 595
British invasion 547 306 Trisong Detsen 524, 544, 545
customs information 599 North Tomb (Shenyang) 445 Tromzikhang (Lhasa) 535
frontier 377, 503 Old Protestant Cemetery Tropical Botanical Gardens
The “Great Game” 495, 547 (Macau) 332
hotels 563 Stanley Cemetery 329 (Xishuangbanna) 350
landscape and wildlife 26 Terracotta Army 174–5 Tropical forests, Southwest China
Lhasa 532–41 Tomb of Yuan Shikai (Anyang)
map 522–3 158 351
nomadic life 528–9 Tomb of Yusup Hazi Hajup Tsepak Lhakhang (Lhasa) 532
Portrait of Tibet 524–5 (Kashgar) 515 Tsetang 545
restaurants 585 Xi Xia Wang Ling 480 Tsim Sha Tsui Waterfront (Hong
Tibetan plateau 483, 531 Xi’an 176
visas and passports 598–9 Xiao Ling Tomb (Nanjing) 236 Kong) 13, 322
Zhongdian 401 Yue Fei Mu (Hangzhou) 246 Tsingtao see Qingdao
Tibet Museum (Lhasa) 533 Tsingtao beer 152
Tibetan Buddhism 467, 524, Tongli 183, 222 Tsogchen (Lhasa) 540, 541
526–7 Tongmenghui (United League) Tsongkhapa 540
Lukhang (Lhasa) 532
Samye Monastery 544–5 69 Lama Temple (Beijing) 98
Ta’er Si 504–5 Tongren 502 Summer Palace (Lhasa) 533
thangkas and mandalas 540 Tongrentang Pharmacy (Beijing) Ta’er Si 504
Xilitu Zhao (Hohhot) 474–5 Wutai Shan 140
Tibetan Connections 595 91 Yellow Hat Sect 524
Tibetan New Year 50 Tongzhi emperor 59, 107 Tsurphu Monastery 546
Tibetan Oracle 540–41 Tu Ta (Zhangye) 494
Tickets Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Tugh Temur 58
admission charges 600 Tourist information 600 Tuisi Yuan (Tongli) 222
advance booking 598 Tours Tujia people 31
air travel 612–13, 615 Tung Chung 331
buses 619 Choosing a tour 593, 595 Tunxi 240
trains 617 Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 hotels 560
Tiger Beach Scenic Area 450 see also Itineraries Turpan 10, 17, 467, 507, 508–9
Tiger Hill (Suzhou) 217 Tower of the Fragrance of hotels 563
Tiger Lair (Longgong Dong) Buddha (Summer Palace, restaurants 585
407 Beijing) 108 24 Bends (Tiger Leaping Gorge)
Tiger Leaping Gorge 14, 379, Trackers, Yangzi river 360 400
400–401 Trains 616–17 Twin Pagoda Temple (Taiyuan)
Tigers, Siberian Tiger Park advance booking 598 143
(Harbin) 456 airport links 614–15 Two International Finance Centre
Time zones 601 tours 593 (IFC, Hong Kong) 316
Timetables, train 616 train spotting 593
Timur 495 Trans Siberian Express 440–41 U
Tin Hau Temple (Stanley) 329 Trams 621
Tingri 551 Peak Tram (Hong Kong) 319 Uighur 466–7
Tipping 603 Trans Siberian Express 440–41 food and drink 83
in hotels 557 Travel 612–21 Islam 511
in restaurants 569 air 612–15 Khotan 519
Toba Wei 59, 61 Beijing 87 Kuqa 513
Toghon Temur 58 Beijing and the North 76 Turpan 508
Toilets, public 605 buses 618–19 Yining 512–13
Central China 180
UK Embassy 605
UME International Cineplex

(Shanghai) 207

646 GENERAL INDEX

Underground City (Beijing) 90 Wang Shi Xiao Yuan (Yangzhou) Wen Miao (Wuwei) 494
Underground Tunnel (Bozhou) 239 227 Wenchang 310
UNESCO Biosphere Reserves, Wenchang Ge (Guiyang) 404
Wang Wei 34 Wenchang Ge (Yangzhou) 227
Changbai Shan 454–5 Wang Wenhan 216 Wencheng, Princess 532, 536, 537
UNESCO World Heritage Sites Wang Xian Chen 212 Wende, Empress 170
Wang Xizhi 252 Wendi emperor 58, 59
Baoding Shan 363 Wang Yuanlu 500 Wenfeng Pagoda (Anyang) 158
Dafo (Le Shan) 370–73 Wangfeng Ting (Stone Forest) Wenshu (Manjusri) 141
Hongcun 240 Wenshu Yuan (Chengdu) 364
Imperial Palace (Shenyang) 444 384 Wenya Museum (Jinzhou) 446
Lijiang 379, 396–7 Wangfujing Street (Beijing) 100 Wenzhou 253
Longmen Caves 79 Wangjiang Lou Park (Chengdu)
Peking Man site 117 hotels 560
Xidi 240 365 restaurants 578
United Airlines 613 Wangjiaping Revolution Wenzong emperor 58
United Parcel Service 611 West Lake (Hangzhou) 183, 248–
Universal Theater (Beijing) 119 Headquarters Site (Yan’an) 177 51, 1010
University accommodation 554 Wanglang Nature Reserve 355, Western Han dynasty 58, 60
Ürümqi 10, 17, 467, 507, 510 Western Hills (Kunming) 383
climate 54 375 Western Jin dynasty 59
hotels 563 Wangshi Yuan (Suzhou) 216 Western Liao dynasty 64
restaurants 585 Wangu Lou (Lijiang) 14, 398 Western Market (Hong Kong)
US Embassy 605 Wangyue Lou (Beijing) 104 336, 337
Uzbeks 511 Wanli emperor 58, 67, 308 Western Palaces (Forbidden City)
95
V Ming Tombs (Beijing) 111 Western restaurants 567
South Cathedral (Beijing) 91 Western Xia Empire 58, 64, 65,
Vaccinations 599, 607 Wannian Si (Emei Shan) 369 481
Vegetarian food 567 Wanshi Botanical Garden Xi Xia Wang Ling (Helan Shan)
The Venetian (Macau) 13, 333, (Xiamen) 292 480
Ward, Frank Kingdon 351 Yinchuan 479
338 Warner, Langdon 499 Western Zhou dynasty 57, 59, 167
Verbiest, Father 100 Warring States Period 57, 60 Westin 557
Victoria Park (Hong Kong) 317 Warts, health precautions 605 Wetlands, landscape & wildlife 29
Victoria Peak Garden (HK) 318 Wase 394 Wheelchair access see Disabled
Vietnam 379, 429, 431 Wat Ben Pagoda 388 travelers
Virgin Atlantic 613 Water Curtain Thousand Buddha White Clouds Temple (Beijing)
Visas 598–9 Caves (Luomen) 486 104–5
Volar (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Water, drinking 606, 607 White Dagoba (Beijing) 96
Volcanoes Water Splashing Festival 389 White Lotus Rebellion (1796-
Water Sprinkling Festival 50 1805) 66, 69
Heshun 395 Water wheels (Lijiang) 396 White Pagoda (Lanzhou) 171
Wu Da Lian Chi 460 Water-borne diseases 607 White Palace (Lhasa) 538, 539
Waterfalls Whitewater rafting 595
W Baihua Shan (Qiongzhong) 310 Wife Waiting for Husband (Stone
Big Dragon Pool Falls (Yandang Forest) 385
W Hotels 557 Shan) 253 Wild China 593, 595
Walking Changbai Waterfall 454 Wild Elephant Valley 388
Detian Falls 403, 431 Wild Man 183, 265, 278
Changbai Shan 455 Diaoshuilou Pubu (Jingpo Hu) Wildlife 26–9
Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 458 Cao Hai 408
Tiger Leaping Gorge 400–401 Doupotang Falls 407 cranes 409
trekking 595 Huangguoshu Falls 407 Emei Shan 368
in Xishuangbanna 391 Maling Canyon 408 giant pandas 367
Walled Villages (New Territories) Nuorilang Falls 376 Hong Kong Wetland Park 327
327 Pearl-Beach Falls 376 Jianfeng Ling Nature Reserve
Walls see City walls Weather 54–5 311
Walnut Grove (Tiger Leaping cold weather 606 Mai Po Marshes 327
Gorge) 401 heat and humidity 606 Qinghai Hu 503
Wan Chai (Hong Kong) 316–17 when to go 598 Shennongjia 278
Wan Sheng Theater (Beijing) 119 Wei Gao 371 specialist holidays 595
The Wanch (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Wei Ken 202 Wanglang Nature Reserve 375
Wang, Abbot 499 Wei kingdom 59 Wild Elephant Valley 388
Wang Chongyang 105 Wei Wei 47 Wulingyuan 270
Wang Hai Lou Cathedral (Tianjin) Weidong 391 Xiamen Seaworld (Gulangyu
135 Weifang International Kite Island) 293
Wang Hongwen 71 Festival 50
Wang Jian 364 Weihai 154–5
Wang Mang 60 Weining 408
Wang Meng, Retreat in the Weizhou Island (Beihai) 431
Qingbian Mountain 197 Wen Miao (Anshun) 406

GENERAL INDEX 647

Wildlife (cont.) Wuyou Hill (Le Shan) 371 Xiaozhai 418
Yingxiong Shan (Gulangyu Wuzhi Shan 310 Xiaozong emperor 59
Island) 293 Wuzhi Shan City (Hainan Island) Xibo people 513
Zhalong Nature Reserve 458 Xidi 240
see also Zoos 310 Xiding 390
Wuzong emperor 58 Xihui Park (Wuxi) 222
Wilhelm II, Kaiser 152 Xijiang 346, 414
Wilson, Ernest 278, 351 X Xilinhot 473, 478
Window on the World
X Bistro (Shanghai) 207 hotels 563
(Shenzhen) 302 Xanadu 478 Xilitu Zhao (Hohhot) 474–5
Wine 510 Xi Jiang 428 Ximao Zhou Island 311
Winter in China 53 Xi Jie (Yangshuo) 424 Xincun 311
Xi Kai Cathedral (Tianjin) 135 Xinglong Tropical Botanical
weather 54, 606 Xi Ling, Empress 214
Winter Solstice 53 Xi Shan (Guiping) 428 Gardens 310
Women travelers 604 Xi Si Ta (Kunming) 381 Xingning Lu (Nanning) 429
Wong Tai Sin Temple (Hong Xi Xia Wang Ling (Helan Shan) Xingping 419

Kong) 323 480 Li river cruise 423
World Trade Organisation 73 Xi Yuan (Suzhou) 217 Xingshu calligraphy 33
World War II 72 Xia dynasty 57 Xingyi 408
Xia Putao 394 Xining 483, 502
Burma Road 383 Xiahe 16, 467, 483, 486
Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) restaurants 585
357 hotels 563 Xinjiang province 466, 467, 507–
Nanjing Massacre (1937) 233 Xiamen 291, 292–3
Writing 32–3 19
calligraphy 33, 225 hotels 561 hotels 563
Naxi script 399 map 293 map 507
Wu Da Lian Chi 443, 460 restaurants 579 restaurants 585
Wu kingdom 59 Xiamen Seaworld (Gulangyu Xinjiang Provincial Museum
Wu Laiqing 383 Island) 293 (Ürümqi) 17, 510
Wu Men Bridge (Suzhou) 218 Xi’an 10, 16, 78–9, 167, 168–76 Xintiandi (Shanghai) 13, 207
Wu Sangui, General 382 air travel 615 Xishuangbanna 349, 350, 379,
Wu Ta (Fuzhou) 298 climate 55 388, 390–91
Wu Ta Si (Hohhot) 475 hotels 559 Dai people 389, 390
Wu Xia 240 map 169 Xiuqing, Prince 229
Wu Zetian, Empress 58, 63, 64, Public Security Bureau 599 Xiuying (Haikou) 310
107 restaurants 575 Xixiang Chi (Emei Shan) 369
Longmen Caves 160 Shaanxi History Museum 16, Xizhou 394
Luoyang 158 167, 172–3 Xizong emperor 58
tomb of 176 in Tang dynasty 62 Baoguang Si 366
Wudang Shan 265, 278, 594 Terracotta Army 60, 79, 167, Xu Da, General 228
Wudang Zhao 476 174–5 Xu Guangqi 205
Wudi emperor 58, 470 Xian Tong Si (Wutai Shan) 141 Xu Wei 252
Mao Ling (Xi’an) 176 Xiandi emperor 58 Xu Yuan (Nanjing) 229
Songyang Academy Xianfeng emperor 59, 107 Xuan Jian 383
(Songshan) 164 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Xuanbi Changcheng 10, 16,
Wuyi Shan 298 Prince Gong’s Mansion (Beijing) 494
Wugong Ci (Haikou) 310 96 Xuancheng 239
Wuhan 182, 265, 272–3 Xiang Jing Yu, tomb of 273 Xuande emperor 58, 67
hotels 560–61 Xiang river 263 Xuandi emperor 58
map 272–3 Xiang Shan Park (Beijing) 109 Xuandu Si (Heng Shan) 267
restaurants 579 Xiangbi Shan (Guilin) 420 Xuanmiao Guan (Suzhou) 211
Wuhou Ci (Chengdu) 365 Xiangfei 516 Xuanwu Lake (Nanjing) 232
Wuhu 239 Xiangfei’s Tomb (Kashgar) 516 Xuanzang
Wulingyuan 183, 265, 270–71 Xianglu Shan 415 Big Wild Goose Pagoda (Xi’an)
Wuquan Shan Gongyuan Xiangyang Road Clothes Market 170, 491
(Lanzhou) 489 (Shanghai) 206, 207 Flaming Mountains (Turpan)
Wusong Fort (Shanghai) 201 Xianhe Mosque (Yangzhou) 227 509
Wusutu Zhao (Hohhot) 475 Xianren Qiao (Wulingyuan) 270 Kuqa 513
Wutai Shan 127, 140–42 Xianyang City Museum Lingu Temple (Purple
map 142 (Xianyang) 176 Mountain) 236
Visitors’ Checklist 141 Xianzong emperor 58 Mor Pagoda (Kashgar) 515
Wutun monastery 502 Xiao Ling Tomb (Nanjing) 236 pilgrimage to India 35
Wuwei 494 Xiao Shi Lin (Stone Forest) 384 Xuanzong emperor 58, 63
Wuwei Si (Dali) 393 Xiaolong Tan 278 Xue Tao 365
Wuxi 222 Xiaoyaijin Park (Hefei) 239 Xujiahui Catholic Cathedral
Wuxi Museum (Wuxi) 222 Xiaoying Island (Hangzhou) 248 (Shanghai) 205
Wuyi Shan 291, 294–5, 298 Xumi Shan Caves 473, 480

648 GENERAL INDEX

Xumifushou Zhi Miao (Chengde) Yellow Cloth Shoal, Li river cruise Yongan Si (Beijing) 96
129 423 Yongding 291

Xun river 428 Yellow Crane Pavilion (Wuhan) earthen dwellings of Yongding
Xunyang Lou (Jiujiang) 258 40, 272 296
Yongding river 116
Y Yellow Emperor 168 Yongle emperor 58, 67, 79
Yellow Hat (Gelugpa) Sect 524, Drum Tower (Beijing) 98
Yabuli 592, 595 Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 96
Yakub Beg 512, 514 526 Ming Tombs (Beijing) 110, 111
Drepung Monastery (Lhasa) Nanjing 229
tomb of 517 540 Yongzheng emperor 59, 68, 115,
Yalong Bay 311 Labrang Monastery 486, 487 128
Yalu Jiang Duan Qiao (Yalu River Lama Temple (Beijing) 98 Forbidden City 95
Longwu Si (Tongren) 502 Youguo Si (Wutai Shan) 142
Bridge) 446–7 Sera Monastery (Lhasa) 541 Youmin Si (Nanchang) 256
Yan Yanzhi 421 Ta’er Si 504 Younghusband, Colonel Francis
Yan’an 177 Wudang Zhao 476 495, 547
Wutai Shan 140 Youth Day 51, 53
Long March 262 Yellow River 78, 159, 177 Youth hostels 554
Yan’an Bao Pagoda (Yan’an) 177 at Baotou 476 Youyi Guan 431
Yan’an Revolutionary Museum at Jinan 148 Yu Gardens and Bazaar
at Kaifeng 156 (Shanghai) 12, 198–9, 206
(Yan’an) 177 at Lanzhou 488 Yu the Great 252
Yandang Shan 183, 245, 253 at Yinchuan 479 Yu Ling (Shaoxing) 252
Yang Can Mu 416 at Zhongwei 480 Yu Men Guan 498
Yang Guan 498 Grand Canal 223 Yu river 428
Yang Guifei 63 in Inner Mongolia 465, 467 Yuan Douguang 381
Yang Jian 61 in Lanzhou 483 Yuan Empire 58, 66
Yang Zengxin 510 Mengda Tian Chi 503 horse-riding skills 468
Yangdi, Li river cruise 423 Shaanxi province 167 porcelain 261
Yangdi emperor 59, 61 Shandong and Henan 147 Yuan Shikai, General 69, 303
Yangpu Bridge (Shanghai) 201 Shanxi province 127 Tomb of Yuan Shikai (Anyang)
Yangshao culture 57 Yellow River Park (Zhengzhou) 158
Yangshuo 10, 14, 349, 403, 424–5 158 Yuandi emperor 58
Yellow Sea 437 Yuanlong Silk Corporation
hotels 562 Yengisar 518 (Beijing) 118, 119
Li river cruise 423 Yesun Temur 58 Yuanming Yuan (Garden of
restaurants 583 Yi, Marquis of 272 Perfect Brightness, Beijing) 109,
rock climbing 594 Yi De, Prince, tomb of 176 439
Yangshuo Gongyuan 424 Yi people 384, 408 Yuantong Si (Kunming) 380
Yangzhou 182, 209, 226–7 Yi Yin 564 Yuantou Zhu (Taihu) 222
map 227 Yi Yuan (Suzhou) 216 Yucca (Shanghai) 207
restaurants 577 Yichang 15, 265, 274 Yue Fei Mu (Hangzhou) 246
Yangzhou Museum 226 Yijing (Book of Changes) 39 Yue people 291
Yangzi Bridge (Wuhan) 272 Yimou, Zang 246 Yueliang Shan (Yangshuo) 425
Yangzi river 15, 180, 182 Yin Tan (Silver Beach) 431 Yuexiu Park (Guangzhou) 307
at Chongqing 356 Yin and Yang Yueya Quan (Dunhuang) 498
at Nanjing 228, 233 food and drink 564–5 Yueyang 267
at Shanghai 201 Forbidden City 93 Yueyang Tower (Yueyang) 267
at Yueyang 267 traditional medicine 238 Yufeng Si 398
delta 226 Yinchang Canyon 375 Yuhuang Ge (Yinchuan) 479
Grand Canal 223 Yinchuan 473, 479 Yuhuang Miao (Tai Shan) 150
in Hunan and Hubei 265 hotels 563 Yuhuang Pavilion (Baoshan) 394
in Jiangsu 209 restaurants 584 Yuhuangding Park (Yantai) 154
Three Gorges 276–7 Ying, Prince of Chu 60 Yuhuatai (Nanjing) 237
Three Gorges Dam 182, 274–5, Yingxian Pagoda 171 Yulong Xue Shan 10, 14, 398
358–60 Yingxiong Canyon 375 Yung Shue Wan 330
in Tibet 531 Yingxiong Shan (Gulangyu Yungang Caves 127, 137, 138–9
Yangzi cruise 358–60 Island) 293 Yunjiu Shan 406
in Yunnan 379 Yingzong emperor 59 Yunnan province 348, 349, 379–
Yanqing Guan (Kaifeng) 156 Yining 512–13 401
Yantai 154 Yixian 209, 240 Dai people 389
Yantai Museum (Yantai) 154 Yixing County 224 flowers 350
Yantai Shan Park (Yantai) 154 Yizhou Pavilion (Changzhou) 224 food and drink 353
Yao people 390, 426 Yizong emperor 58 hotels 562
Yao Wenyuan 71 Yong Ling Museum (Chengdu) maps 379
Yaoqu 390 364
Yarkand 519 Yong river 252
Yarlung Tsangpo river 531
Yashow Clothing Market (Beijing)
118, 119
Yehenala 445