DK Eyewitness Travel Guide_ China

DUNHUANG 499

Race for the Silk Road Oases

A scholarly reflection of the political rivalry between the great powers at the end of the
19th century was the race between a group of explorer-archeologists to locate (and
plunder) the lost towns of the Silk Road. Between them, they succeeded in uncovering
a huge number of long-forgotten, desert-scoured towns. These pioneers furthered the
knowledge of life along the Silk Road and saved many items from further degradation.
However, they did remove vast quantities of priceless works of art, to the eventual
annoyance of the Chinese government. These are now scattered in museums
around the globe. Initial interest in the region by the British was based on strategic
considerations (see p495); then, as stories of lost cities emerged, the interest of
antiquarians around the world was aroused. Controversial though they were, their
excavations captured the world’s imagination.

Tales of buried cities being Sven Hedin (1865–1952),
uncovered by sandstorms from Sweden, was the first
emerged at the end of the
19th century. The Gaochang of many government-
Ruins, discovered by von Le Coq, sponsored adventurers to
were found to have been a
major Buddhist and Nestorian explore these isolated
center (see p471). regions. The others were
Albert von Le Coq from
Germany, Count Otani of
Japan, Paul Pelliot of France,
Sir Aurel Stein from Great

Britain, and Langdon
Warner from the USA.

This Buddha’s head came from the
Bezeklik Caves, discovered by von Le
Coq in 1904. These caves held some
beautiful murals protected over the
years by the encroaching sand. Von
Le Coq simply cut them from the walls
and sent them home to Germany.
Unfortunately, the murals were destroyed
by bombing during World War II.

This silk painting is from the
Mogao Caves, which were
reached by Aurel Stein in 1907.
He befriended the Abbot,
Wang, and gained access
to the newly discovered silks
and manuscripts of Cave 17.

This fresco of a bodhisattva
and other wall paintings at the
Mogao Caves were considered
sacred, so the collectors could
not remove them (see p500). But
Stein and the others negotiated

with Abbot Wang to carry off
thousands of historic items.

500 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

The Cave Paintings of Dunhuang

Protected by their relative isolation, the cave paintings Cave 275: Sixteen Kingdoms
at Dunhuang form the most fascinating repository of 366–439 This early cave of the
Buddhist art in China. For over 700 years, between the Northern Liang Period is dedicated
4th and 11th centuries AD, Buddhist monks excavated to the Maitreya or Future Buddha,
and painted these caves, until invasion and the who is depicted in wall paintings
encroachment of Islam brought work to a halt. The and statues.
paintings were all but forgotten until 1907, when the
explorer Sir Aurel Stein stumbled across the caves and
the Daoist priest who guarded them, Wang Yuanlu.
Among the many thousands of items uncovered by
Stein is the Diamond Sutra, the world’s earliest printed
book (in scroll form), and many of the patterns used by
the monks to reproduce paintings at will.

Cave 272: Sixteen Cave 254: Northern Wei
Kingdoms 366–439 439–534 This cave shows
These Devas (Buddhist stories of Buddha’s early
angels) are in rapture life, including the Sacrifice
as they listen to the of the Prince. The murals
Buddha’s teaching. are richer in content than
in earlier caves and the
artwork has become
more accomplished.

Cave 249: Western Wei Cave 428: Northern Zhou 557–580
535–556 On the north wall Stories of the good prince, an earlier
there is a wonderfully lively incarnation of Buddha, abound. Here
hunting scene showing the he offers himself to a starving tigress
backward-shooting hunter so she may feed her cubs.
– a feat only made possible
with the invention of
the stirrup.

Cave 419: Sui 581–618 Under the short- Cave 420: Sui 581–
lived Sui dynasty, China was reunified with 618 This fresco
both the north and south adopting portrays a journey
Buddhism as their religion. This harmony on the Silk Road, the
allowed the development of a more Chinese route via which
artistic style and was a highly fruitful time Buddhism came to
for Dunhuang. This cave portrays the good China, as well as
prince on a hunting trip with his brothers. pictures of buildings in
a style of which no real
example survives.

DUNHUANG 501

Cave 220: Early Tang 618– The Dunhuang cliff face, home to 1,000 years of Buddhist history
704 Rich patrons would often
feature in murals. This cave Mogao Caves not allowed in the caves
portrays ten generations of
the wealthy Zhai family. (unless you have a very

Cave 217: Early to High Tang Mogao, 15 miles (25 km) SE of expensive permit), a rule that
618–780 Detail of the Western Dunhuang, Gansu Province. Tel (0937) is strenuously enforced. The
Paradise of Amitabha Buddha. 886 9060. @ Open 8:15am–4:30pm standard tour lasts half a day,
This cave contains some daily (mid-Nov–Apr: 9:15am–4pm). and includes about fifteen of
wonderful, unfinished &8^ the caves, as well as the
paintings of Bodhisattvas. museum, which exhibits some

Cave 17: Late Tang 848–906 The caves at Mogao were dug of the ancient manuscripts
A detail from the famous cave
where the massive library of into cliffs that rise out of an found here. It is also worth
sutras was first found by
Abbot Wang. otherwise largely flat and visiting the Research and

Cave 263: Western Xia 1036– featureless desert Exhibition Center, where
1226 Under the Western Xia
dynasty a lot of older caves landscape. Getting seven of the caves have
were simply redecorated.
This was originally a cave there is relatively easy, been reproduced,
of Northern Wei origin.
if you are travelling permitting far closer

independently, as scrutiny of the paintings

Dunhuang is crawling than is possible in the

with minibuses. As original caves, albeit

usual, the drivers wait without the same

until every seat is taken atmosphere of

before setting off, but antiquity. There is a

the half-hour journey simple guesthouse

is cheap. Remember for those wishing

that the caves are Statue from pagoda to stay overnight;

closed between at Mogao caves otherwise, the return

11:30am and 2:30pm. journey to Dunhuang

Of the six hundred surviving is by minibus, the last one

caves, only about twenty are leaving around 6pm.

open to the public. The

entrance fee includes a

Chinese-speaking guide,

although it is worthwhile, for

an additional fee, engaging an

English-speaking guide, since

the tour party is likely to be

smaller and the choice of caves

less rigidly laid down. The

caves that include portrayals of

tantric sex can also sometimes

be opened for a supplementary

payment. The guides are

generally fairly knowledgeable

about the history of the caves

and the paintings and

sculptures within. You are,

however, recommended to

take your own flashlight and to Façade of Cave 96, covering a 100-ft (30-m)

remember that photography is statue of Buddha

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

502 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

make a point. Sometimes, if From the 16th century, it served

you’re lucky, they can also be as a stopover on the Silk Road’s

seen making sand paintings. lesser-used southern route,

Behind the monastery, a stream and is now a good base for

flows into the grassland for about exploring Qinghai. Xining lies in

a mile, leading to a pretty Tibetan a remote valley, and, at 7,464 ft

village. Situated in another (2,275 m), experiences a cool

village, Sengeshong, 4 miles summer and freezing winter.

(7 km) from the city center, The Great Mosque, one of

the Wutun and Gomar the largest and most

monasteries are home impressive in northwest

to some of the best China, is situated on

Tibetan artists in the Dongguan Dajie,

world. Both monasteries close to the city

are magnificently decor- center. It was

The beautifully decorated door of Longwu ated, with every surface originally built in
Si’s prayer hall, Tongren
of their assembly halls the 14th century,
e Tongren
carved and painted with and is thoroughly
66 miles (107 km) W of Xiahe. @
_ Lurol Festival (6th lunar month), traditional Repkong Chinese in design,
Buddhist Festival (1st lunar month).
designs. The residents A devotee in the with elements
Known as Repkong in Tibetan,
Tongren is a transit point of this village speak a Great Mosque such as flying
between Xiahe and Xining. This
small town offers fascinating mixture of Tibetan, eaves and vividly
insights into the life of the
Tibetan people. On the outskirts Mongolian, and other dialects. colored arches. Enclosed
of town lies the colorfully
decorated lamasery, Longwu Si, within is a public square,
containing fine relics in its many
halls. Initially built in 1301 during r Ta’er Si that is usually bustling with
the Yuan dynasty, today’s thousands of worshipers.
modern reconstruction houses
three colleges and an assort- See pp504–5. In the far north of town,
ment of lamaseries belonging across the Huangshui River,
to the Yellow Hat sect – a
branch of Tibetan Buddhism the Daoist Bei Shan Si sits atop
(see pp526–7). At dusk, visitors
can watch the resident monks t Xining a hill and is the focus for a
debating, using elaborate pleasant afternoon’s hike. The
formalized body language to
route, via stone steps and across

144 miles (232 km) W of Lanzhou. wooden walkways, passes
* 2,130,000. ~ £ @ n Qinghai numerous cave shrines.
Tourism Bureau, (0971) 820 3271.
Xining’s ethnic mix is best
appreciated at Shuijing Xiang

Although blessed with very few Market, in the west of town off

sights, Qinghai’s capital, Xining, Xi Dajie, where over 3,000 stalls

is home to an intriguing mix of sell all manner of provisions and

minority peoples, mostly Hui food, especially hot breads,

Muslims and Tibetans with a mutton dishes, and kabobs.

sprinkling of Kazakhs and It is also a good place to stock

Mongols. It is the starting up on snacks before heading

point of the railway to Lhasa, off on a trip to Qinghai Hu,

and trains depart daily. to the west of town.

The grand Chinese-style architecture of the 14th-century Great Mosque, Xining
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

GANSU & QINGHAI 503

On the southern shore, the
Qinghai Lake Tourist Center
offers opportunities for boating,
fishing, horse riding, and
trekking. Accommodations are
available at the tourist center.

i Golmud

Mengda Tian Chi nature reserve along the banks of the Yellow River 474 miles (762 km) W of Xining.
~ £ @ n 60 Ba Yi Rd, (0979)
y Mengda Tian Chi Its location on the Tibetan 849 5123.

plateau, at a height of 10,500 ft In the far west of Qinghai,
Golmud is perched at 9,186 ft
(3,200 m) above sea level, (2,800 m) in the forlorn Tibetan
plateau. The only sizable town
124 miles (200 km) SE of Xining. @ to makes it extremely remote, for several hundred miles, it is
the second largest city in the
Guanting or Xunhua, then taxi. & accessible only with the help province after Xining, with a
largely Han Chinese population.
of a tour agency. The lake is
The town’s bus service, which
The remarkably beautiful Tian home to many Tibetan nomads, runs to Lhasa in Tibet, is not
particularly cheap and very
Chi, or “Heavenly Lake,” forms who graze their yaks and sheep few people use it now that
the 625-mile (1,000-km) railway
the core of the Mengda Nature near the lake, and in summer, line to Lhasa has been built,
which is the highest railway in
Reserve, situated along the numerous herds can be the world and has pressurized
carriages and oxygen supplies
Yellow River. In contrast spotted grazing. on board. Train journeys to
Lhasa do not originate in
to most other parts The lake’s icy salt Golmud, however, contrary
to popular belief, but pass
of the province, the water is home to through it only. Xining is now
the starting point for journeys
land here is fertile large quantities to Lhasa from Qinghai Province.

and abounds with of fish, which feed One route out of Golmud
is to take a land-cruiser tour
vegetation. Most a thriving bird into some of the remoter
parts of Xinjiang.
of the reserve is population. Most
Golmud itself is largely
woodland, offering trips to the lake unappealing, although the
surrounding lunar-looking land-
opportunities for A medallion with Tibetan center around a scape has a rugged charm best
appreciated on the way out.
scenic walks and calligraphy visit to Bird Island,

birdwatching. a rocky outcrop

Accommodations are available on the western side where

at the reserve, while trips can colonies of swans, cormorants,

be arranged through Xining’s bar-headed geese, and rare

Tourist Office. The trip to black-necked cranes, among

Mengda Tian Chi from Xunhua others, flourish during the

is spectacular, winding along breeding season.

a precipitous road that cuts

into the cliffs along the Yellow

River. Xunhua is home to the

Turkic-speaking Salar people,

who have been here for

centuries but originate from

modern-day Uzbekistan.

u Qinghai Hu

93 miles (150 km) W of Xining. Bird
Island: Closed Nov–Feb. & 8

The largest lake in China,
Qinghai Hu covers a vast area of
over 1,740 sq miles (4,500 sq km). Colorful Tibetan prayer flags on the shore of Qinghai Hu

504 INNER MONGOLIA AND THE SILK ROADS

r Ta’er Si

Nestled into a hillside, this walled temple complex, also . Great Golden Roof Hall
known as Kumbum Monastery is one of the most This temple was built at the spot
important Tibetan Buddhist sites in China. Tsongkhapa, where Tsongkhapa was born and
founder of the Gelugpa sect (see p526), was born here in a tree is said to have grown with
1357, and the first temple was built in his honor in 1577. an image of the Buddha on each
The monastery was closed for a period under Communist leaf. It contains a silver stupa
rule, although the buildings were afforded protection holding his image.
during the Cultural Revolution, and reopened in 1979.
A major restoration project has been undertaken since
an earthquake rocked the complex in 1990. Ta’er Si is
easily accessible from Xining, and so is popular
with both tourists and pilgrims.

Pilgrim
Turning
a hand-held
prayer wheel and
fingering prayer beads,
the devout walk clockwise
around the perimeter of
the complex.

. Hall of Butter Sculpture
This strongly fragrant

exhibition is packed with
intricately carved yak butter

sculptures. The gaudily
painted figures depict
scenes from Buddhist lore.

KEY

1 Grand Kitchen . Great Hall of Meditation
2 Prayer Hall This evocative chamber,
3 Dinkejing Hall where up to 2,000 monks
4 Nine Room Hall
5 Visitors who climb these could gather to chant sutras,
steps are rewarded with views is hung with silken thangkas.
across the valley.
The flat roof rests on grand
6 Dafangzhang Hall pillars, each wrapped in
an exquisite carpet.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

GANSU & QINGHAI 505

Local monk VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Ta’er Si is a working
monastery and houses Practical Information
over 650 monks, who Huangzhong. 17 miles (28 km)
spend their life S of Xining. Tel (0971) 223 2357.
studying Buddhist Open 8am–6pm daily. &
teachings. There were _ Monlam: 8th–15th of 1st
once as many as 3,500 lunar month; Saka Dawa:
resident monks. 8th–15th of 4th month; Tsong-
khapa: 20th–26th of 9th month.
Transport.
@ from Xining (depart just west
of Xi Men).

Chorten
A towering chorten of 46 ft (13 m) marks
the monastery’s entrance. The square
base symbolizes earth, the dome water,
the steps fire, and the parasol wind, all
of which is topped by a crown
representing the ethereal sphere.

Lesser Golden Roof Hall
A truly bizarre pavilion, this temple
is dedicated to animals. Stuffed
deer, sheep, and goats, draped in
ceremonial scarves, peer down
from the upper story.

Prayer Hall
This time-worn temple is still used for
religious tutelage. The external murals

are new, however, and show a mix
of Chinese and Tibetan influences.



INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS 507

XINJIANG

Although technically an autonomous region, Xinjiang is the
largest of China’s provinces, and shares borders with eight
countries. This isolated region is largely desert and grassland
fringed by some of the highest mountains in the world.

Two thousand years ago a string of oasis towns were established along the Silk Roads that
skirted the northern and southern edges of the scorching Taklamakan Desert. Trade attracted
merchants from India and Europe, and Xinjiang became the meeting point of east and west,
with Christian churches and Buddhist temples. At the end of the Tang era, Turkic tribes
repeatedly overran the region, and by the 15th century Islam was established as the main
religion. In the 18th century, the Chinese took control of what was then Kashgaria, and despite
several revolts, have maintained their rule ever since. Almost fifty percent of the population is
comprised of ethnic minorities, and in 1955, in deference to the large Uighur population, the
area became the Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region, with its capital at Ürümqi. Today,
highlights of a visit include the Tian Shan range and the rich pastures around Tian Chi (Heaven
Lake) outside Ürümqi, and Silk Road towns such as Turpan and Kashgar, shaded by palm trees
and set against a backdrop of desert and mountain. It is also possible to travel southwest over
the Karakoram mountains into Pakistan or west into Kazakhstan along the ancient trade routes.

Sights at a Glance Lakes, Mountains & Areas of Key
Natural Beauty
Towns & Cities Expressway
3 Tian Chi National Highway
1 Turpan 4 Altai Minor road
2 Ürümqi 6 Sayram Lake Railroad
5 Ghost City 7 Yining & Ili Valley International border
8 Kuqa 0 Karakoram Highway Provincial border
9 Kashgar Disputed border
q Yengisar
w Yarkand
e Karghilik
r Hotan

Kanas

Burqin

Fuyun

Tacheng 0 km 200
314
217Toli Urho 0 miles 200

216KaramayShaqiuhe

Shihezi Fukang Mori Barkol
Yiwu
Usu G30

Zhaosu Narat Kaidu He Xiaocaohu Hami Yandun
Baicheng Kümüx Xingxingxia
314
Aksu Korla
Luntai
Akqi
Tarim He
G30TikanlikKum
218 Kuduk
217 Yumen
Baykurt Argan

Markit T A K L A M A K A N DESERT
Ruoqiang

315 Xorkol

Qiemo 315

Taxkorgan Pishan

Akmeqit Qira
Xaidulla 219
Dahongliutan Minfeng

Pulu Golmud

The beautiful Tian Chi, surrounded by mountains For additional map symbols see back flap

508 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

its grapes, with mud- decorated knives, clothing,
brick houses and fabric, nuts, and fruit
dusty streets often (especially raisins).
covered with trellised
vines. The original Silk E Turpan Museum
Road settlements of Gaochang Lu. Tel (0995) 761 9650.
Jiaohe and Gaochang Open 10am–6:30pm Tue–Sun. &
lie outside town
along with other This small museum has a few
sights. In summer, the worthwhile exhibits. The main
heat is intense, and it points of interest are items
is best to use donkey excavated from the now empty
carts as taxis. Tang-dynasty Astana tombs
located outside town. These
U Emin Ta include ancient silks, clothes,
1.5 miles (2.5 km) E of food items, and even some
town. Open 8am–9pm preserved corpses.
daily (mid-Oct–mid-Apr:
10am–6:30pm). & P Jiaohe Ruins
6 miles (10 km) W of Turpan. @ mini-
The graceful Emin Ta and Iranian-style mosque This is perhaps the bus or cycle. Open 9am–6pm daily.

1 Turpan most interesting of &8
Turpan’s numerous mosques
Although less important and
because of its old minaret (Emin smaller than Gaochang, the ruins
of Jiaohe are better defined.
116 miles (187 km) SE of Ürümqi. Ta), constructed in 1778, that Jiaohe was founded as a garrison
* 255,000. £ Daheyan, 33 miles rises like a stout but graceful town but came under Uighur
(54 km) N of Turpan, then minibus. @ chimney beside it. Built by jurisdiction in the 6th century. It
n Turpan Bing Guan, (0995) 852 1352. Prince Suleiman in honor of his was finally abandoned during the
father, Prince Emin, the minaret Yuan era, perhaps due to failing
water supplies. The ancient city
is broad at the base and occupies a position on a steep
plateau, with its street plan clearly
This oasis town on the tapers toward the top. visible, and is well worth a visit.

northern Silk Road lies in the Designed in the Returning from Jiaohe, visi-
tors can stop off to see the karez
Turpan depression – one of the Iranian style with irrigation site. Used throughout
Xinjiang, this ingenious system
lowest areas on earth – some elaborately of irrigation taps into natural
underground water sources by
and is largely an decorative brick- using a network of subterranean
tunnels which channel water to
Uighur settlement. work, its staircase the fields. Wells, dug at intervals
along the length of the tunnels,
The Uighur was closed in 1989. bring water to the surface.

descended from Dried fruit on sale,

nomadic Siberian Turfan bazaar ( Bazaar

tribes who united in Laocheng Lu.

the 7th century and settled in Open daily.

the region in the 9th century. The small Turpan market is an

They later converted to Islam as interesting place to browse for

it spread across Central Asia. It is local products including a

an easy-going place, famous for variety of medicinal potions,

The ruined city of Jiaohe set against a backdrop of hills on a steep plateau
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

XINJIANG 509

The dramatic Flaming Mountains near Turpan of Gaochang. The tombs, dating
from between the 3rd and 8th
centuries AD, were systematically
excavated from 1959, and
revealed several corpses,
mummified by the dry desert air.
They had been wrapped in silks,
and buried with many everyday
items, including pottery, wooden
carvings, coins, and documents
relating to military and domestic
transactions such as land
tenures. Most items are now on
display at museums in Turpan
and Ürümqi, but the three
tombs that are open to visitors
display Tang-era paintings and
a few preserved corpses.

} Grape Valley 14th centuries. The caves P Gaochang Ruins
29 miles (46 km) SE of Turpan.
Tel (0995) 861 4688. @ minibus from originally stored a collection of Tel (0995) 869 3628. @ minibus from
town. Open 8am–9pm daily (mid-
town. Open daily. & Buddhist murals in the Indo- Oct–mid-Apr: 10am–6:30pm). & 8

An attractive desert oasis to the Iranian style, which showed Southeast of the Astana tombs
lie the ruins of Gaochang city,
north of Turpan, Grape Valley unusually marked western surrounded by 33-ft (10-m) high
walls. Founded as a garrison town
(Putao Gou) is best visited influences. Sadly, only in the 1st century AD, by the 4th
century Gaochang had become
in the summer. With vines fragments remain, as after the capital of the western Han
empire. A cosmopolitan city with
and trellises bulging centuries of neglect, traces of Nestorian Christianity
and Manichaeism (a Persian
with grapes, it is a they were all removed dualistic religion), it was visited
by the monk Xuanzang in AD
pleasant place to stop in the early 1900s by 630, on his journey to India in
search of Buddhist sutras. From
for lunch, with plenty the German explorers the 9th to the 13th centuries, the
city was the Uighur capital, but
of grapes and raisins von Le Coq and was abandoned during the early
Ming era. The ruins are extensive,
to eat (for a fee). There Grunwedel, and but little is recognizable, apart
from a Buddhist temple outside
is a winery nearby, as placed in a Berlin the southwest walls.

well as brick silos for museum, where they

drying the grapes. Buddha mural in the were later destroyed

Bezeklik Caves by Allied bombs

} Flaming during World War II.

Mountains

Tel (0995) 869 6012. @ minibus from Astana

town. Open daily. & 8 25 miles (40 km) SE of Turpan.

The road east to Bezeklik leads @ minibus from town. Open dawn–

past these sandstone mountains, dusk. &

made famous in the novel The cemetery of the ancient

Journey to the West, a fictionalized city of Gaochang is located at

account of the journey of the Astana, a few miles northwest

pilgrim monk Xuanzang to India.

In the book, the mountains

(Huoyan Shan) are described

as being on fire, and at certain

times of day, a combination of

sun and shadows makes them

seem to flicker as though

glowing red-hot.

P Bezeklik Caves The Bezeklik Caves situated in a spectacular river gorge
31 miles (50 km) NE of town. Tel
(0995) 868 9116. @ minibus from
town. Open 8am–9pm daily (mid-
Oct–mid-Apr: 10am–6:30pm). & 8

Picturesquely situated in a
desert gorge high above the
Sengim River, the Bezeklik Caves
once formed part of a Buddhist
monastery between the 6th and

510 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

2 Ürümqi

911 miles (1470 km) NE of Kashgar.
k £ @ n 33 Renmin Lu, (0991)
281 7006.

Capital of Xinjiang since the

19th century, Ürümqi sits amid

beautiful scenery, with the

snow-laden Tian Shan to the

east. It served as the base for a

succession of warlords well into

the 20th century, including the

infamous Yang Zengxin who, in

1916, invited all his enemies to

dinner and then beheaded

them. Today a growing

metropolis with a population of

one million, Ürümqi is a modern Tian Shan peaks surrounding the deep-blue waters of Tian Chi

Chinese city, with designer 3 Tian Chi
stores and high-rises. Many Han Xinjiang Provincial Museum

Chinese have settled here since devotes a section to archeolo-

1949, and the population is gical finds, especially from 62 miles (100 km) E of Ürümqi. n
now half-Han and half-ethnic around Turpan, including (0994) 323 1238. @ from Ürümqi.
minorities including some preserved Closed in winter. & Horses available
Uighur, Manchu, corpses, silk paintings, for exploring lake area.
Kazakh, Mongolian, and lovely brocades.

and Tajik. A section dedicated

No longer a remote to local peoples A refreshing break from the arid

outpost, Ürümqi includes gers, deserts of northwestern China,

was finally jewelry, and Tian Chi (Heaven Lake) is a beau-

connected to traditional clothes. tiful stretch of water, surrounded

Central Asia and In the north of the by luxuriant meadows and pine

Europe after the city, the scenic forests. It lies at an elevation of

Ürümqi-Almaty rail Pagoda in Hongshan Park, Hong Shan Park 6,500 ft (1,980 m), enclosed by

line was built in Ürümqi has a small 18th- snow-capped peaks including

1991. Most visitors century pagoda, the majestic Bogda Feng, that

come to see Tian Chi (Heaven and offers wonderful views. reaches a height of almost

Lake) but the city has other 20,000 ft (6,000 m). A wonderful

attractions such as its lively E Xinjiang Provincial Museum place for spending a day, Tian

markets and the fascinating Xibei Lu. Tel (0991) 453 3561. Open Chi offers many opportunities

mix of ethnic peoples. The fine 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sun. for leisurely walks and hikes in

the lake area and through the

Grapes & Wine neighboring countryside dotted
with Kazakh gers.

Nearly every household in the region is involved in grape production, The local Kazakhs are mostly

either in cultivation, or in drying inside ventilated barns. In Xinjiang, nomadic, living off sheep-
the use of grapes for making wine was first recorded by a Chinese breeding, and more recently,
emissary in 138 BC, although grapes were possibly cultivated here as tourism. Very friendly and
early as the Shang era. In fact, all wine-making in China was learned hospitable, they can arrange
from the peoples of the western regions. By the Yuan era, wine guides and horse treks around
the lake and into the hills.
production, based in
Xinjiang, was substantial, Tian Chi can only be
and by the Ming period, visited during summer
varieties such as the (May–September), as it is not
crystal, the purple, and accessible during the winter
the seedless green rabbit- months. There are usually plenty
eye grape were grown. of accommodations available in
Today, wine production

is thriving in China, and local Kazakh gers around the

most of these varieties lake. Staying overnight can be

Fruit vendor weighing grapes at the are still grown. far more fun and interesting

marketplace in Ürümqi than the day-tours which are

sometimes a bit tacky.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

XINJIANG 511

Islam in China

Islam probably came to Xinjiang via the Silk Road in the ninth century, some 200 years
after Arab sailors had landed in southern China. By the Ming Dynasty, Muslims had
flourished and become fully integrated into Han society without losing their dress and
dietary customs. Despite hostile regimes and upheavals there is now a significant Muslim
population of about 13 million. These comprise the Xinjiang nationalities – Uighur,
Kazakhs, Kyrgyz, Tajiks, Tatars, and Uzbeks of the northwest – and the large contingent
of Chinese-speaking Hui, scattered around the country. It is generally accepted that all
Muslims in China are Sunni of the Hanafi School, which is one of four “schools of Islamic
law.” It is considered the oldest and most liberal school and is traditionally tolerant of
differences within Muslim communities.

Mosques in
China retain
most traditional
Islamic features
but the pagodas
and upturned
eaves are clear
signs of Chinese
architectural
influences.

Inside the mosque the congregation members, usually The muezzin, as in all Muslim
men, prostrate themselves before the mihrab, a niche in communities, calls the faithful to
the wall indicating the direction of Mecca. The main hall
is reserved for Friday prayers. prayer five times a day. Today,
the call is usually recorded and
The Hui are said to be
the descendants of broadcast by loudspeaker.
the Arab and Persian
traders who arrived Dongxiang
in the Tang dynasty Muslims hail from
and married into Gansu province
Chinese families. and speak
They are the biggest Mongolian. They
Muslim minority. have left pastoral
herding in favor
The Koran was first of a sedentary
translated into Chinese farming life.

in 1927. Through the
interpretations of the
scholars, the Koran is a
vital part of Islamic life.

512 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

the Ghost City. Made famous
by the movies filmed there,
including Crouching Tiger,
Hidden Dragon, it is now a
popular destination. Camel
rides, mountain bikes, and four-
wheel vehicles can be hired.

6 Sayram Lake

75 miles (120 km) N of Yining. @

The breathtaking alpine scenery of Hanas Lake Nature Reserve, Altai The jewel-like Sayram Lake, or
Sailimu Hu, is a vast stretch of
4 Altai (1,370 m) in the glorious water set amidst magnificent
Altai mountains, the reserve mountain scenery and
404 miles (650 km) N of Ürümqi. supports a diversity of wildlife. flowering meadows. Located at
~ Altai, then bus. @ from Ürümqi The area is wonderful for 6,560 ft (2,000 m), the lake area
to Burqin, then 93 miles (150 km) N walking, and boat trips are is chilly for most of the year, and
via bus or car to reserve. n (0906) available on the lake. Tours only warm in summer when it is
652 4464. from Ürümqi operate all year. also covered in flowers. Reached
by bus from Yining, it is a beau-
tiful spot, barely touched by
tourism, although it is possible
to stay in simple lakeside
guesthouses or gers (yurts).

In contrast to the arid deserts of 5 Ghost City 7 Yining
southern Xinjiang, the far north
is covered in forests, lakes, and Near Urho, 62 miles (100 km) N of 242 miles (390 km) W of Ürümqi.
streams, over looked by high Karamay. * 13,000. n (0906) 652 * 216,600. ~ @ from Ürümqi.
mountains. The Altai region, 4464. ~ Karamay, then bus. @ from Ili Valley: @ from Yining.
bordering Mongolia, Russia, Karamay. &
and Kazakhstan, is famous for Close to the border with
its natural beauty, best seen Rising above the ocean of oil Kazakhstan, Yining is the
in the Hanas Lake Nature rigs, along the Dsungar Basin, capital of the Ili Kazakh
Reserve (can be visited from is a collection of wind-shaped Autonomous Prefecture.
Burqin). Centered around an rock formations, known as
alpine lake set at 4,490 ft

Woman tending her sheep in a flower-covered meadow on the shores of Sayram Lake
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

XINJIANG 513

founded on the vast wealth

generated by the Silk Road trade.

In the 7th century, the monk

Xuanzang passed through Kuqa

and claimed to have defeated its

ruler in a philosophical debate.

With the arrival of Islam in the 9th

century, however, most traces of

its Buddhist past disappeared.

Mainly a stopover on the

long journey to Kashgar, Kuqa

is effectively two towns – New

Kuqa and Old Kuqa. The old

town has a bustling bazaar

atmosphere, and a few dusty,

narrow lanes lined with trad-

A traditional shop in one of Yining’s Uighur bazaars itional mud houses. Built in

In recent centuries, Russia has 8 Kuqa 1923, the attractive green-tiled
Great Mosque bears no traces

noticeably influenced Yining as of Chinese influences in its

it was occupied by Russians in 186 miles (300 km) SW of Ürümqi. * traditional arabesque design.
1872 when Yakub Beg ruled the 75,000. ~ £ @ n Kuqa Travel One of the main reasons to
region (then known as
Kashgaria) and later, Agency, (0997) 712 9558. ( Fri. visit Kuqa are the Thousand
Buddha Caves at Kizil, 43 miles

during the period (70 km) west of town. The caves

of Sino-Soviet This small oasis town, date to between AD 500–700

friendship in the essentially an Uighur and the frescoes, in a mixture of

1950s, a number settlement, has an Indo-Iranian and Greek styles,

of Russians resided interesting history. are fascinating for their total

here. After An independent absence of Chinese influence.

relations between state until the 8th Unfortunately, the caves were

China and the century, when it looted at the beginning of the

USSR broke down Grapes for sale on the street, fell under Chinese 20th century by archeological

in the early 1960s, Yining rule, the kingdom explorers. While most of the

there were violent had strong links caves have been stripped of

border clashes along the Ili with India. Its significance as a their frescoes, some of the

River. More recently, Yining has Buddhist center dates back to cave decoration has survived,

been the scene of several Uighur the 4th century, when the notably the musicians in Cave

uprisings, which were quelled. Buddhist scholar Kumarajiva 38, and the domestic and

Small, but pleasant and flourished. Born here, he went to agricultural scenes in Cave 175.

friendly with tree-lined streets, school in Kashmir, northern India, About 19 miles (30 km) north

Yining is known for its local and came back to China as a of Kuqa lies the ruins of the

honey beer, and hard cheese. teacher and linguist, translating ancient city of Subashi.

Its main draws are the lively Sanskrit texts into Chinese. The

Uighur bazaars with their range town became a focal point P Thousand Buddha Caves

of street food in the old city, from where Buddhism was Hired car or taxi. Tel (0997) 893 7006.
south of Qingnian Park. In disseminated throughout China. Open daily. & 8 arranged by the
summer, the town comes Several large monasteries were Kuqa tourist office.

alive with bustling night

markets and food stalls.

About 3 miles (5 km) south

of town, the Ili Valley (Ili Gu) is

a scenic farm area of fields and

meadows. Home to the Xibo

people, a tiny minority, whose

capital is at Chapucha’er.

Related to the Manchus, the

Xibo were sent here during

the Qing era to maintain

sovereignty in the region. They

have kept themselves separate

from the Han and other local

communities, and retain their

own language and script. The Thousand Buddha Caves at Kizil, outside Kuqa

514 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

9 Kashgar the centuries, the mosque’s
current structure dates back
In the far west of Xinjiang, the Silk Road town of Kashgar lies only as far as 1838, and was
at the foot of the Pamir mountains, with the Taklamakan badly damaged during the
Desert to the east. As the meeting point of the northern and Cultural Revolution (see pp70–
southern Silk Roads and the gateway to the West, it was once 71). The main gate, flanked by
a place of great significance. A Chinese garrison was a pair of small minarets, is a
established here in AD 78, but the area succumbed to the confection of marzipan-like
spread of Islam in the 9th century, and Kashgar did not yellow brick and tiling. Inside
become part of the Chinese empire again until the 18th the gate is an octagonal
century. Later, a Central Asian warlord, Yakub Beg, proclaimed pavilion and a pool, as well as
himself Khan of the state of Kashgaria but he died in 1877 and a 100-columned space which
China annexed the province. Today, Kashgar is once more a can accommodate as many as
busy market town and transport hub, and despite rampant 7,000 worshipers. Although
modernization retains much of its old charm. women are generally not
permitted to enter the mosque,
all modestly dressed foreign
visitors should have no
problem, although there are
times – such as during services
– when non-believers are not
allowed. Visitors are advised to
remove their shoes when
entering carpeted areas.

P Old Town

Area to the NE of Id Kah Mosque.

Northeast of Id Kah Square is

the sprawling Uighur bazaar

area. Split into different sections,

each specializes in particular

items such as hats, musical

instruments, carpets, and

Farmers waiting to trade livestock at market, Kashgar hardware. The main attractions

are the locally-produced

( Sunday Market U Id Kah Mosque Kashgar kilims (carpets) and

Near Ayziret Lu. Open daily. Livestock Idi Kah Square. Tel (0998) 282 3235. colorful Central Asian hats.

Market: Open Sun. Open 9am–4pm daily (closed during Part of the area is a network
One of China’s most famous
services). & of mud-brick walls and

weekly markets, the Sunday The largest mosque in Xinjiang, courtyards, with local teahouses

Market lies in the northeast and one of the largest in China, and tiny restaurants selling flat

suburbs, just beyond the river. Id Kah Mosque (Aitika Qingzhen breads, noodles, lamb stews,

Despite now being split into Si) was probably founded in and kabobs. A 10-ft (3-m)

two markets – the livestock 1738, although it possibly section of the old city walls

market is a few miles southeast stands on the site of a smaller can be seen at the end of

of town – thousands of traders mosque, built in the 15th Seman Lu, east of the mosque,

flood in from all directions on century. Built in the Central and on Yunmulakxia Lu,

horseback, in donkey-drawn Asian style and altered over southwest of the mosque.

carts, on foot, and in every

form of motorized vehicle.

In the crush, stall holders sell

blankets, garish fabrics,

carpets, and fruit. However,

the main attraction is the

bustling livestock market.

(Carts shuttle between the

two.) Here horses are road-

tested at a gallop and small

herds of sheep are kept in

order while waiting to be

sold. It is a dusty, noisy, and

photogenic place, which

comes to life at dawn, and

lasts into the evening. The Id Kah Mosque, with Kashgar city and the Pamirs on the horizon

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

KASHGAR 515

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
920 miles (1,473 km) SW of
Ürümqi. * 350,000. n 144 Se
Man Rd, (0998) 298 4836. ( Sun.
Transport
k £ @ International Bus
Station, CAAC (buses to airport).

One of many old alleyways lined with mud-brick houses, Kashgar P Ruins of Ha Noi
22 miles (35 km) NE of Kashgar.
Tomb of Yusup Hazi Hajup T Caves of the Three The remains of the Tang-era town
Open daily. & Immortals of Ha Noi lie in a desert setting
This favorite son of Kashgar 11 miles (18 km) N of Kashgar. & 8 northeast of Kashgar. Abandoned
was an 11th-century Uighur in the 12th century, the ruined
thinker and poet, renowned for Among the earliest Buddhist 7th-century town offers little
his epic poem The Knowledge cave carvings in China, the besides the Mor Pagoda, a large
of Happiness. He was originally Caves of the Three Immortals stupa said to have been visited
buried outside the city, but his (Sanxian Dong) possibly date by the monk Xuanzang on his
tomb was relocated close to back to the 2nd century. The historic journey to India.
Kashgar’s main square, when grottoes are not always acces-
threatened by a flooding river. sible as they are perched high P Opal
Although it has a plain interior, on a sandstone cliff. Poor 18 miles (30 km) W of Kashgar.
the external structure is attempts at restoration and Opal or Wupoer is the site of the
impressive. Top-ped with a embellishment over the years renovated tomb of Mohammed
blue dome and a cluster of have destroyed many of the Kashgari – an eminent 11th-
minarets, the tomb is encased paintings and statues. However, century scholar and philologist,
in blue-and-white tiles with a handful of small Buddha credited with compiling the first
Arabic motifs. figurines remain, which can only Turkic-Arabic dictionary. A
be seen with the permission of museum devoted to him is
Aba Khoja Mausoleum the Kashgar tourist office. If situated here, and every Monday
See pp516–17. permitted, visitors will have to there is also a colorful market.
take the official guided tour.

Kashgar City Center Caves of the Ruins of
Three Immortals Ha Noi
1 Sunday Market
2 Id Kah Mosque Airport Aba Khoja
3 Old Town 12 km north Mausoleum

4 Tomb of Yusu

Hazi Hajup International LU
5 Aba Khoja Bus Station NIZHAWAG

Mausoleum YUNMULAKXIA Tuman
LU TUMAN
He LU TAUHUZ LU
J I E FA NG B E I L U LU AY Z I R E T

SEMAN LU OLD Sunday Train Station
Market 10 km east
Id Kah
RENMIN DONG LU
Mosque TOWN

RENMIN XI LU Renmin TIAN NAN LU Tomb Sayyid
Gongyuan Ali Asla Khan

OPAL, CAAC Dong Hu
Gongyuan
Karakoram Highway

0 km 1 KEZIDUWEI LU Tomb of Yusup AIRISILAHAN LU
0 mile 1 Hazi Hajup

Key to Symbols see back flap LU
NAN
JIEFANG

516 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

Aba Khoja Mausoleum The entrance to the Aba Khoja complex
lined with plane trees
-
Built in the 17th century, the Aba Khoja Mausoleum and
nearby buildings form one of the best examples of Islamic
architecture in China. The mausoleum is the burial place of
the family of Aba Khoja, a celebrated Islamic missionary.
However, the monument is also known as Xiangfei’s Tomb,
as it may be the burial place of one of Aba Khoja’s
descendants, Ikparhan, said to be the legendary “fragrant
concubine” Xiangfei. The wife of a defeated rebel leader, she
was captured by the Qianlong emperor and taken back to
Beijing to be his imperial concubine. Refusing to submit to
him she was, depending on which story you believe, either
murdered or driven to suicide by the emperor’s mother.
Others claim she died of old age.

. Geometric Decorations
Floral and geometric patterns
are common in Islamic art
because creating animate
objects was considered to be
in God’s realm (flowers were
considered inanimate).

KEY

1 The casket of Ikparhan is . Tombs
labelled inside the tomb hall. The Decorated with blue-glazed tiles, the tombs of
carriage which supposedly carried
her body back from Beijing is also the Aba Khoja family lie on a raised platform,
on display.
draped in colorful silks.
2 The four corner minarets lack
the slender grace of most other
towers. Instead their charm derives
from the colorful striping of the tiles
and the exquisite detailing of Islamic
motifs and patterns.

3 The dome is 56 ft (17 m) in
diameter. Almost half the tiles
have now fallen from the dome.

4 Graceful minarets flanking
the entrance

5 Arabesques are beautiful floral
patterns where a main stem
branches into a series of secondary
stems that may either branch again
or rejoin the main stem, and so on.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

KASHGAR 517

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Just over 2 miles (4 km) NE of
Old Town center.
Mausoleum: Open 9am–5pm
daily. & Mosque: Open daily
(prayer day Fri). &
Transport
@ from People’s Square. Also
possible to cycle or walk.

Cemetery
The cemetery, still in use by the local Uighur population, is filled with
many hundreds of distinctively peaked, mud and brick tombs. The
bodies of the dead are washed and prepared for burial in the
adjacent mosque.

Minaret decoration
Each of the windows are screened
in a different geometric pattern.
The surrounds are adorned with
graceful arabesques while the
turret is topped with an inverted
lotus dome, scalloped edges,
and finial.

The Aba Khoja Complex

Although Islam came to Xinjiang via

Arab traders on the Silk Road in the 9th

and 10th centuries, it was not until the

15th century that it became the

dominant religion of the area, and

Kashgar became an important Islamic

center. The Aba Khoja complex is a

significant architectural ensemble

comprising a mausoleum, four prayer

halls, a lecture hall, and a cemetery.

There is also a gateway covered in Arabic muqarnas on

decorative, blue-glazed tiles and a pond in mosque pillar

the courtyard for worshipers to cleanse

Mausoleum Entrance themselves before entering the mosque. The halls are graced
The impressive façade of the
mausoleum has a tiled iwan niche- by exquisitely painted wooden beams supported by pillars
style entrance typical of mosques
in Central Asia. with delightful muqarnas – an Islamic feature of projecting

niches – on the capitals.

518 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

Truck passing a checkpoint on the Karakoram Highway, with the Pamir mountains in the background

0 Karakoram Pakistan. The highway took knives for Uighur men, who
Highway nearly 20 years to build. The carry them as traditional
journey along it is fairly arduous, accoutrements. Knives of all
SW from Kashgar into Pakistan. @ and although traveling shapes and sizes are sold in
conditions are improving, it is dozens of shops. While most of
Once a spur of the Silk Road, the best to carry warm clothing, the knives produced are factory-
Karakoram Highway (Zhongba food, and drink for the trip, made, traditional knife-making
Gonglu) was the only route over which takes about four days. skills are still practiced by
the Karakoram Mountains, to and artisans in the center of town.
from India. During the 1970s and q Yengisar Using basic tools, the workers
1980s, a road was built across at the Yengisar Country Small
the mountains following the old 37 miles (60 km) S of Kashgar. @ Knife Factory produce exquisite
caravan route, to link China and designs fashioned from fine
Pakistan. The 808-mile (1,300-km) The small, sleepy town of woods, their handles inlaid with
route from Kashgar to Islamabad Yengisar on the southern arm of silver or horn. It is sometimes
in Pakistan, which stretches across the Silk Road is renowned for its possible to visit the factory, even
the Pamir mountains over peaks locally produced knives. For though a big board outside
reaching 26,250 ft (8,000 m), is centuries, the town has been bears a “No Entrance” sign. The
one of awe-inspiring beauty. manufacturing hand-crafted knives, which make attractive
Camels and yaks, tended by Tajik gifts, require special arrange-
herdsmen, graze in the highland ments to be taken home.
pastures. Lakes with mirror-like
surfaces, such as Lake Karakul, Polished knives displayed at a stall in the Sunday Market, Yengisar
reflect the majesty of the
mountains, while the remains of
the occasional caravanserai stand
crumbling at the side of the road.

The last town in China is
Tashkurgan, a bleak outpost,
with the remains of an ancient
fort. Beyond it is the 15,750-ft
(4,800-m) high Khunjerab Pass,
the gateway to Pakistan. The
Pakistan border post lies just
beyond at Sost. Visitors should
note that the border is closed
in winter, and that visas are
required – issued in Beijing or
Hong Kong – to cross into

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

XINJIANG 519

Jade here at bargain prices. Visitors
interested in silk production can

Jade, or nephrite, has been carved and stop by the Hetian Silk Factory

polished by the Chinese for several thousand in the northeast of town.

years, along with jadeite, soapstone, and Sections of the old city walls
still stand on both sides of
chalcedony. While the latter are known as Nuerwake Lu. The chaotic local
market takes place on Fridays
yu, nephrite is zhen yu, or true jade. Initially and Sundays in the northeast of
town. Though not as large as its
used as a tool, jade came to be widely used famous counterpart in Kashgar, it
is a colorful affair with livestock,
as jewelry during the Han era. By the Qing fruit, silks, and carpets on sale.

period, carvers were producing a variety of Uncut nephrite or At the end of the 19th
decorative pieces including intricate jade century, the first rumors of the
true jade region’s lost cities – which
animals. Always thought of as being green, jade

can in fact be brown, black, or the prized cloudy white. To the

Chinese, it symbolizes longevity and purity, and is worn as an amulet

to ward off disease. The country’s only source of nephrite is Xinjiang,

particularly around Hotan, so a sophisticated supply system must

have existed even in neolithic times.

inspired several expeditions –

w Yarkand r Hotan emanated from here. A detailed
map, indicating the location

of the buried cities, lies in the

106 miles (170 km) SE of Kashgar. @ 249 miles (400 km) SE of Kashgar. small Hetian Regional Museum.
For centuries an important * 100,000. ~ @ n Hotan Travel, Items of interest include
(0903) 251 5660. ( fragments of silk, wooden
utensils, and jewelry excavated

commercial center on the from nearby lost cities, as well

southern arm of the Silk Road, The oasis town of Hotan, or as the mummified corpses of a

Yarkand was, like Kashgar, Hetian, was an early center for 10-year-old girl and a 35-year-

prominent in the Great the spread of Buddhism before old man with Indo-European

Game – the power Islam arrived in the 9th century. features, which are 1,500 years

struggle between Formerly the capital of old. The ruined city of

China, Russia and the Yutian kingdom, it Melikawat lies over 18 miles

Britain (see p494). has been, like most (30 km) south of town. All

The old town, with Silk Road cities, that remains of this once

its adobe walls and periodically significant Buddhist center

narrow streets, has a subsumed into are crumbling walls, and

few interesting sights. the Chinese shards of glass and pottery.

The Altyn Mosque empire. For

has beautifully A vendor pulls a cart centuries, the town’s E Hetian Regional Museum

painted ceilings, and of radishes, Yarkand jade, carpets, and 342 Beijing Xi Lu. Tel (0903) 251 9286.
in its courtyard is the silk have been Open hours vary; call in advance. &

Tomb of Aman Isa Khan considered the finest

(1526–60) – the poet wife of in China, and are

one of the local Khans – built still produced in

in 1992. Behind the mosque is factories across town.

a sprawling cemetery housing According to legend,

the tombs of the Khans of the secret of silk was

Yarkand. There is also a lively first introduced to

Sunday market. the region by a

Chinese princess

e Karghilik betrothed to a
local prince, who

smuggled silk moth

eggs in her hair in AD

144 miles (230 km) SE of Kashgar. @ 440. Craftsmen carve

fine jade items at the

This town was a convenient Jade Factory on Tanai

stop between Hotan and Lu, while the Carpet

Kashgar on the southern arm of Factory across the

the Silk Road. The colorful old river is a friendly

Uighur town is definitely worth place also worth a

exploring, while the town’s main visit, especially for

attraction, the 15th-century those wishing to

Jama Masjid, sits amidst the buy a carpet, as

arcaded bazaar. they are available Craftsmen at the open-air market in Hotan



TIBET

Introducing Tibet 522–529
Around Tibet 530–551

522 TIBET

Tibet at a Glance Thangka hanging on a door at the Jokhang
Temple, Lhasa
Bordered on three sides by some of the world’s highest
mountain ranges – the Himalayas, the Karakoram, and
the Kunlun – Tibet has remained in relative isolation.
Sheltered first by its inaccessibility and then, in the age of
air travel, by Chinese occupation, the “Roof of the World”
is now open to foreign visitors. Its one major city, Lhasa,
retains its spiritual core: the Jokhang; the venerable
palace of the Dalai Lamas, the Potala; and great
monasteries such as Drepung and Sera. Wherever you go,
Tibet offers panoramic vistas of high-altitude desert
fringed by peaks, but the turquoise depths of Lake
Namtso and the sky-scraping peaks of Mount Everest are
particularly worth visiting.

Muztag Feng Shan
6973m

Hoh Xil

Gozha Co

Bairab Co Rola Co

Kashgar Orba Co
Lumajangdong Co
Dogai
Coring

Rutog

Lugu Gomo

Nganglong Kangri XIZANG ZIZHIQU
6596m (TIBET)

Gar Sênggê Gegyai Qagcaka Zhaxi Co
Gar Xincun Za
Oma
ngbo Gerze

Lang G a Ngangla Cozhe Siling Co
n Ringco Bogcang Zangbo Nyima
Gar Zangbo

qên
Zangbo g
d Tangra
Barga is Lunggar Coqen Yumco Gyaring Co

La’nga im ê Ngangze
S Co
Co Key Zhari Namco Xainza
Paryang
Burang Kangmar

H h a n

Zhongba Lungsang

Sights at a Glance a l Saga Dogxung Zangbo SHIGATSE
a y a sXixabangma Feng Ngamring
Towns & Cities
1 Lhasa Lhatse Bainang
5 Gyantse
9 The Nepal Border Tingri SAKYA

Areas of Natural Beauty 8027m Zhangmu MONASTERY

THE NEPAL EVEREST BASE CAMP
BORDER
Mt Everest
8848m Yadong

4 Namtso Lake Main road
8 Everest Base Camp Minor road

Temples & Monasteries Other railway
International border
2 Samye Monastery pp544–5 Disputed border
3 Tsurphu Monastery Provincial border
6 Shigatse & Tashilunpo Summit
7 Sakya Monastery

Yamdrok Lake, the largest lake in south Tibet, seen from the Kamba-la Pass

INTRODUCING TIBET 523

The Potala Palace seen from the rooftop of the Jokhang, Lhasa’s holiest temple

0 km 150
0 miles 150

Golmud
Ta n g g u l a
Tanggula Shankou
6070m

Shan Garze
Amdo Jomda

Xagquka Baqên

Baingoin Biru Dengqen
Riwoqe Qamdo
Nagqu Gonjo
Soila Mekong
NAMTSO Banbar
LAKE
Nyainqêntanglha Lhorong Kangding

Lhari Shan (Lancang Jiang)

Damxung Lhasa HeGongbo’gyamda Baxoi Markam

TSURPHU LHASA Bomi Hen g d Zogang
MONASTERY
Namjagbarwa Feng Rawu uan
Maizhokunggar Nyingchi 7756m

SAMYE MONASTERY S

Rinbung Shannan Mainling han
Gyaca Nangxian Zayu
GYANTSE Yamdrok
Lake Lhunze Hkakabo Razi
5885m
Kangmar

Kula Kangri Cona Kangto
7554m
7102m Getting There
Chomo Lhari
7314m

Visitors arrive mostly by air from Chengdu, the capital
of Sichuan, or Kathmandu, Nepal. An overland route also
connects Kathmandu and Lhasa, but while individual
travelers can leave, only tour groups may enter this way.
The bus route from Golmud in Qinghai has been
superseded by a high-speed railway line, and most
people take the train to Lhasa from Xining or Chengdu.
No independent travel is allowed for foreigners in Tibet.
The best option is to arrange a tour with an agency in
Lhasa, which will also handle permits.

524 TIBET

A PORTRAIT OF TIBET

Tibet’s reputation as a land of exotic mystery is due to centuries of geographic
isolation and a unique theocratic culture, based on Buddhism but influenced by
an older shamanistic faith called Bon. In 1950, China marched into Tibet and
annexed the country. Despite this upheaval, the traditional culture and values
of the Tibetans remain strong and continue to lure and enchant visitors.

Since the introduction of Buddhism in the led to Buddhist persecution, and though
7th century, the religion has permeated the religion re-emerged later, the kingdom
all aspects of Tibetan life, with monasteries disintegrated into several principalities.
acting as palaces, administrative centers,
and schools. Ruled by priests, Tibet was In the 13th century, Tibet submitted to
feudal in outlook and resisted all the Mongols, and in 1247 the head lama of
modernization. The country thus Sakya Monastery was appointed Tibet’s ruler.
entered the modern world without Subsequently, Tsongkhapa (1357–1419)
an army, lay education, or roads, established the Gelugpa or Yellow Hat
and with few technologies more sect. His disciples became the Dalai Lamas,
sophisticated than the prayer wheel. rulers of Tibet for 500 years. Each new Dalai
Lama is seen as a reincarnation of the
Buddhism was introduced in Tibet previous one. In 1950, the Chinese took
by Songsten Gampo (AD 608–50). A advantage of a tenuous claim to the territory
remarkable ruler who also unified the and invaded. In the uprising that followed
country, Songsten Gampo was converted in 1959, the 14th Dalai Lama (b.1935) fled
to Buddhism by his Chinese and Nepalese to India, where he still heads the Tibetan
wives. The next religious king, Trisong Government-in-Exile. By 1970 more than
Detsen (742–803) consolidated the a million Tibetans had died either directly
Buddhist faith, inviting the Indian teacher at the hands of the Chinese or through
Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) to Tibet famine caused by incompetent agricultural
and founding Samye Monastery. A revival policies. Tibet’s cultural heritage was razed,
of the native Bon religion in the 8th century and over 6,000 monasteries destroyed.

Sprawling Ganden Monastery, built in the early 15th century

INTRODUCING TIBET 525

Almost a quarter of the people are

nomads, keeping herds of dzo (a

cross between a yak and a cow)

and living in tents. Their livestock

provide products vital for everyday

Tibetan life – yak butter is used in

the ubiquitous butter tea and burnt

in smoky chapel lamps.

Tibet’s roads are few, and journeys

are always time-consuming. The

busiest route is the Friendship

Buddha’s all-seeing eyes on the Kumbum, Gyantse Highway between Lhasa and the

Nepalese border, which passes

Some monasteries that were ravaged through Shigatse, Gyantse, and the

during the Cultural Revolution are now dramatic Sakya Monastery. It is a long,

being repaired and returned to bumpy but rewarding diversion from

their former roles, but creating here to the Everest base camp,

or owning an image of the which offers great views of the

Dalai Lama is still illegal. forbidding peak. Lhasa, too,

The ancient city of Lhasa can be a good base for

is the heart of Tibet, though exploring some of the other

Han Chinese immigrants now isolated destinations. The

outnumber ethnic Tibetans. A monasteries of Drepung,

spectacular railway line linking A Tibetan mandala, a ritual Sera, Ganden, and Tsurphu

Golmud in Qinghai to Lhasa tantric diagram are easily accessible, while

means that immigrant numbers Lake Namtso and Samye are

will continue to grow. However, the old farther away. Note that you will need to

quarter, home of the Potala Palace and the outline every place you wish to visit to

Jokhang Temple, illustrates the determina- the tour operator who applies for your

tion with which Tibetans have held onto permit; if a place is not mentioned on

their cultural traditions. A common sight your permit, you may not be allowed in.

here are the pious pilgrims, swinging

prayer wheels and performing

prostrations as they make kora –

holy circuits – around the temple.

Most of Tibet is desert, and the

average altitude is over 13,000 ft

(4,000 m), with temperatures well

below freezing in winter. Many

customs arose as response to

life in this harsh environment.

Sky burials, for example, in which

the dead are left in the open for

vultures, are practical in a land

where firewood is scarce and the

earth too hard to dig. Polyandry

(the practice of having more

than one husband at a time) and

celibacy of the clergy were necessary

forms of population control. Monks debating under a tree, a common sight at Sera Monastery

526 TIBET

Tibetan Buddhism

The Mahayana school of Buddhism, which emphasizes Chortens hold the ashes of
compassion and self-sacrifice, came to Tibet from India in spiritual teachers. The square
the 7th century. As it spread it took on many aspects of the base symbolizes earth;
native, shamanistic Bon religion, incorporating Bon rituals the pinnacle crown
and deities. Like most Buddhists, Tibetans believe in represents the
reincarnation – consecutive lives that are better or worse ethereal sphere.
depending on the karma, or merit, accrued in the previous
life. For many Tibetans, Buddhism suffuses daily life so
completely that the concept of a religion separate from
day to day occurences, is completely foreign – there is
no word for religion in Tibetan.

Monks and Monasteries A soul can take one
of two paths: the
At the height of monastic power light path leads to
there were some 6,000 monasteries auspicious rebirths
in Tibet, and numerous Buddhist until final liberation,
sects. Most families sent a son to the dark to poor
become a monk and live a life of rebirths and hell.
celibacy and meditation.

The Gelugpa or Yellow The Nyingma order is the oldest
Hat sect was founded and most traditional of all the
in the 1300s by the sects. It was founded during
reformist Tsongkhapa. the 600s by Guru Rinpoche.
Dominant in Tibetan
politics for centuries, the
sect is led by the Dalai
Lama and Panchen
Lama (see p524, p548).

Bon – Tibet’s Pre-Buddhist Faith At the axle the three
evils, a snake (anger),
Bon, an animistic faith with emphasis on magic and a pig (ignorance), and
spirits and the taming of demons, was Tibet’s native a cockerel (desire),
religious tradition before the arrival of eternally chase each
Buddhism. Many Tibetan legends concern other’s tails.
the taming of local gods and their
conversion to the new faith. Much Wheel Of Life
of today’s Buddhist iconography,
rituals, and symbols, including The continuous cycle of existence and
prayer flags and sky burials – re-birth is represented by the Wheel of
where the deceased is Life, clutched in the jaws of the Lord
chopped to pieces and left of Death, Yama. Achieving enlighten-
on a mountainside for vultures – ment is the only way to transcend the
are Bon in origin. The faith has incessant turning of the wheel.
been revived by a hand-ful
of Bon monasteries in Tibet.

A 19th-century bronze
figure of a Bon deity

INTRODUCING TIBET 527

Spinning a prayer wheel clockwise sends a Prayer and Ritual
prayer written on coiled paper to heaven. The
Worship in Tibet is replete with ritual objects and
largest wheels contain thousands of prayers customs, many of which help with the accrual of
and are turned by crank or water power. merit. Koras, which are always followed clockwise,
can be short circuits of holy sites or fully-fledged
The outer ring illustrates the pilgrimages. The most auspicious kora is around
12 factors that determine Mount Kailash, considered the center of the universe;
karma, including spiritual nirvana is guaranteed on the 108th circuit.
awareness (a blind man with
a stick) and acts of volition This ritual drum,
(a potter molding pots). made from the upper
part of two skulls, has
extra potency as a tool
of prayer, because it
is fashioned from

human remains.

The inner wheel A worshiper spins
depicts the six realms a hand-held prayer
into which beings can wheel, rings a Tibetan bell
be reborn – gods, called a drilbu and holds
demigods, humans, offerings of banknotes, all
animals, ghosts,
and demons. in aid of prayer.

Mani stones are
carved with the
Sanskrit mantra “om
mani padme hum” (hail
to the jewel in the
lotus), a powerful
Buddhist chant.

The Tibetan Pantheon

An overwhelming plethora of deities, buddhas, and
demons, many of them re-incarnations or evil aspects
of each other, make up the Tibetan pantheon. Buddhas,
“awakened ones,” have achieved enlightenment and
reached nirvana. Bodhisattvas have postponed the
pursuit of nirvana to help others achieve enlightenment.

Jampalyang (Manjusri) Buddhist Deities
represents
knowledge and Jowo Sakyamuni:
learning. He raises the present Buddha
a sword of Jampa (the Maitreya):
discriminating the future Buddha
wisdom in his Dipamkara (Marmedze):
right hand. the past Buddha
Guru Rinpoche (Padmasam-
Dharmapalas, defenders of the law, bhava): earthly manifestation
fight against the enemies of Buddhism. of Buddha who spread
Buddhism throughout Tibet
Originally demons, they were tamed Chenresig (Avalokitesvara):
by Guru Rinpoche, who bound them multi-armed bodhisattva of
to the faith. Mahakala, one of the most compassion
common dharmapalas, is a wrathful Drolma (Tara): female aspect
of compassion
manifestation of Chenresig.

528 TIBET

Nomadic Life Dried yoghurt is thought to
protect the skin from the sun,
The Chang Tang, a high plateau covering almost 70 percent but men don’t use it at all;
of Tibet, is home to about a quarter of Tibetans, many of women smear it on with a
whom are nomads, or drokba, as the harsh, arid climate tuft of wool as a cosmetic.
precludes farming. Their existence has barely been touched
by modern life, and they still herd sheep, goats, and dzo
(a cross between a yak and a domesticated cow), as they
have for centuries. The animals are adapted to high
altitude, having larger lungs and more hemoglobin than
lowland animals. The nomad’s culture is also adapted to
the harsh, arid climate.

These men enjoy cups of salted tea made with
yak butter, a popular drink throughout Tibet. The
salt combats dehydration and the fat gives much-
needed energy. They wear knee-length lokbars,
with a black strip at the edge, the traditional dress
for male nomads.

Traditionally, nomads wear The Herd
belted robes made out of
Nomads rely totally on their herds for food,
goatskin called lokbars clothing, shelter, and sometimes income, so
that double as blankets no part of any animal goes to waste. Goats,
at night. The fleece is for example, provide milk for yoghurt, skins for
worn on the inside, clothing, wool for trading, and dung for fuel.

while the sturdy hide
is exposed to wind and
snow. The sleeves are
extra long to keep
hands warm. Women
braid their hair and wear
their wealth as jewelry.
Coral, in particular, is
highly valued.

Each household has a home
tent, four-sided and made

out of the coarse hairs found
on a yak’s belly. Often, the
tent is pitched in a pit and

surrounded by stone wind-
breaks. Another cloth tent
may be used for traveling.

INTRODUCING TIBET 529

A woman spreads yak A nomad pours yak butter from
dung over a windbreak a churn for adding to strong, salty
wall. Once it has dried, tea. The nomadic diet is basic; the
she will scrape the dung staple is tsampa, roasted barley
off the wall and use it to flour, which, often eaten dry and
fuel fires for cooking. on its own, provides about half of
Such tasks are strictly a nomad’s calories. Goat’s milk
demarcated by gender; yoghurt, radishes, and occasional
women do all the meat stews supplement the diet.
milking, churning,
cooking, weaving, and
fuel gathering, and so
work harder than the
men for most of the year.

The wool of the yaks, sheep, and goats in the
nomad’s herd is woven using a loom, creating
robust textiles for tent walls, blankets, and
clothing. The incomes of many nomads have
been augmented by the popularity of
cashmere wool, which is the soft down
on a goat’s underbelly.

Moving the Herds A herder driving his yaks over a snowy
mountain pass
Nomads on the Chang Tang do not move continuously,
nor do they move far – only around 10 to 40 miles (15
to 65 km), as the growing season is the same all over the
plateau. Indeed, they try to minimize travel, declaring
that it weakens livestock. Some families even build a
house at their main encampment. In the fall, after the
herds have eaten most of the vegetation at the main
encampment and the growing season has ended, the
nomads move their livestock to a secondary plain for
grazing. Here livestock must forage for eight to nine
months on dead vegetation. Later the nomads may
move some of their herds farther up the hills.
They then return to their original encampment.



TIBET 531

TIBET

The enormous Tibetan plateau stretches across
an awesome 463,323 sq miles (1,200,000 sq km).
Its northern expanse is the Chang Tang, a vast,
uninhabited high-altitude desert, dotted with
enormous, brackish lakes. Nearly all the main sights
and cities, as well as half of Tibet’s population of 2.8 million
people, are concentrated in the less harsh southern region.

The fertile valley created by the Yarlung the Salween, and the Mekong. Eastern
Tsangpo river is bordered by the Tibet, also known as Chamdo, is one
Himalayas along Tibet’s southern of the few regions of Tibet where it
boundary. A mere 14 million years rains frequently – the mountains of the
old, the Himalayas are the youngest southeast are cloaked in mysterious,
mountains on earth, and also the highest, unexplored forests.
with over 70 peaks reaching elevations
of 23,000 ft (7,000 m), including Mount The wide, open spaces of northern and
Everest, the world’s highest at 29,029 ft western Tibet are home to nomads who
(8,848 m). The spectacle of these snow- live a hardy pastoral existence. These
clad peaks is perhaps what led to Tibet wilderness areas are slowly shrinking as a
being called the “Land of Snows.” In result of the encroaching industrial world.
reality, at an average altitude of over
13,000 ft (4,000 m), the thin air intensifies However, despite rapid development
the sunshine making acclimatization and more than 50 years of Chinese
and sun screen essential. occupation, Tibet still clings strongly to
its cultural heritage, most visible in the
Tibet’s eastern reaches are riddled revitalized monasteries. Tourism too, is
with gorges carved out by three of a growing industry as more areas are
China’s rivers – the mighty Yangzi, opening up, allowing visitors tantalizing
glimpses of a once-forbidden world.

Main prayer hall at Ganden Monastery, the first Gelugpa monastery in Tibet
Namtso Lake, a popular tourist destination

532 TIBET

1 Lhasa Lhasa City Center

Tibet’s capital since the 7th century, Lhasa is an intoxicating 1 Potala Palace
introduction to Tibet. The Dalai Lamas’ splendid but 2 Lukhang
poignantly empty seat, the Potala Palace, dominates the 3 Ramoche
city from its site on top of Marpo Hill. The old Tibetan quarter 4 Ani Tsankhung Nunnery
to the east is Lhasa’s most interesting area; its centerpiece is 5 Jokhang Temple
the revered Jokhang Temple. Around it is the Barkhor, which 6 Tibet Museum
retains its medieval character with smoky temples and 7 Norbulingka
cobbled alleys. Most Tibetans come here as pilgrims. The
additions of concrete buildings and internet cafés show Key
how the city has changed over recent decades.
Street-by-Street area: see pp534–5

0 meters 500
0 yards 500

Key to Symbols see back flap

Drepung Monastery & BEIJING ZHONG ROAD
Nechung Monastery
MINZU NAN ROAD Tibet MINZU ROAD
NORBULINGKA Museum
BEI ROAD
NOR B ULINGKA ROAD
Norbulingka

Lhasa Airport Main Bus
93 km (60 miles) Station

Railway Station JIN ZHU ZHONG ROAD
4 km (2.5 miles)
Kyi Chu
Strikingly-colored mural at the Lukhang Temple

P Potala Palace  Ramoche statue of an eight-year-old
See pp538–9. Open 9am–5pm daily. & Sakyamuni (see pp36–7), part
The three-story Ramoche, just of the dowry of another of
 Lukhang north of the Barkhor area (see his wives, the Nepalese
Ching Drol Chi Ling Park. pp534–5), is the sister temple Princess Bhrikuti.
Picturesquely located on an to the Jokhang. It was built in
island in the lake behind the the 7th century by Songtsen The reconstructed temple
Potala, and cloaked by willows Gampo (see p524) to house the features some huge prayer
in summer, this temple is statue of Jowo Sakyamuni wheels, and is not as busy as
dedicated to the king of the (Tibet’s most venerated Buddha the Jokhang. Next door is the
water spirits (lu), who is image), brought by his Chinese Tsepak Lhakhang, a chapel
depicted riding an elephant wife Wencheng. According to with an image of Jampa, the
at the back of the main hall. legend, the threat of Chinese Tibetan name for the Future
The upper floors are decorated invasion after the king’s death Buddha (see p527).
with striking 18th-century compelled his family to hide
murals, representing the the statue inside the Jokhang.
Buddhist Path to Enlightenment. It was replaced by a bronze
Their great attention to detail
and vivid stories offered visual Prayer wheels at the Ramoche Temple
guidance to the Dalai Lamas
(see p524), who retired here for
periods of spiritual retreat.

Buddhist myths dominate the
walls on the second floor, while
the top-floor murals depict the
esoteric yogic practises of the
Indian tantric masters. They also
illustrate episodes in the life of
Pema Lingpa, ancestor of the
6th Dalai Lama who is credited
with the Lukhang’s original
design in the 17th century.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

LHASA 533

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
* 560,000. n Tibet Tourism
Bureau, (0891) 683 4315.
∑ xzta.gov.cn/yww

Transport
k Lhasa Airport at Gongkhar,
40 miles (65 km) from Lhasa,
then bus. £ Lhasa Station.
@ Main Bus Station, CAAC,
Minibus Station.

The Summer Palace of the Dalai Lamas in the Norbulingka

Sera Monastery place for a leisurely afternoon
& Tsogchen visit. The path west from the
entrance leads to the oldest
LINGKUO BEI ROAD LINGKUO DONG ROAD palace, the Kelsang Potrang,
used by the 8th to the 13th
Ching Drol Dalai Lamas. Its main hall has a
Chi Ling Park wealth of thangkas (see p540)
LINGKALukhang and a throne. More diverting is
RO Ramoche the Summer Palace, just north
AD Potala Tsepak Lakhang of here, which was built for the
KANG’ANG DONG ROADPalace present Dalai Lama in 1954. Its
N YA N G R A I N audience chamber holds bright
ROADCAAC murals depicting events from
Tibetan history, from the tilling of
Palhalupuk DUOSEN’GE NAN RD DUOSEN’GE BEI ROADBEIJING DONG ROAD the first field to the building of
People’s BEI DUAN the great monasteries, including
Park Minibus the Norbulingka. Next to the
Station chamber are the Dalai Lama’s
YU TUO ROAD Jokhang meditation room and bedroom,
BARKHOR Temple preserved exactly as he left them
SQUARE in 1959, when he escaped from
this palace disguised as a Tibetan
Ani Ganden soldier and began his journey to
Tsankhung Monastery India. The Assembly Hall where
LINGKUO DONG ROAD he held state has a golden
JIN ZHU DONG ROAD JIANG SU ROAD Nunnery throne and colorful murals
depicting scenes from the Dalai
 Ani Tsankhung Nunnery  Jokhang Temple Lama’s court, and episodes
Open daily. & See pp536–7. from the lives of Sakya Thukpa
(Sakyamuni, the Historical
Situated in the old Tibetan E Tibet Museum Buddha) and Tsongkhapa,
quarter, the Ani Tsankhung Tel (0891) 683 5244. Open Tue–Sun. founder of the Gelugpa
Nunnery is difficult to find. Summer: 9:30am–5:30pm, winter: order of monks (see p524).
Wandering through the busy 10am–5:30pm. 8
back alleys south of the Barkhor Brightly painted doorway, Norbulingka
area in search of the place, can, This building presents a rather
however, be a wonderful expe- one-sided version of Tibetan
rience. It is located in a yellow history. If the propaganda is
building on the street running ignored, however, the over
parallel and north of Chingdol 30,000 relics are worth a visit.
Dong Lu. The nunnery’s main The most interesting displays
hall contains a beautiful image are of rare Tibetan musical
of Chenresig, the multi-armed instruments and medical tools.
Bodhisattva of Compassion
(see p527), and behind it lies a P Norbulingka
meditation chamber used by Open 9:30am–6pm daily. &
Songtsen Gampo in the 7th Today a pleasantly scrubby park,
century. An air of quiet serenity the Norbulingka (Jewel Park) was
pervades this quaint place, with once the summer palace of the
its flower bushes and spotless Dalai Lamas. Founded by the 7th
compound. The nunnery’s main Dalai Lama in 1755 and expanded
attraction is the warm welcome by his successors, the park
the curious nuns give to the contains several palaces, chapels,
visitors that come here. and buildings, and is a charming

534 TIBET

Street-by-Street: The Barkhor

Lhasa’s liveliest neighborhood, the fascinating Barkhor bustles Butter stall
with pilgrims, locals, and tourists eager to visit the Jokhang A stall selling yak butter for
(see pp536–7) – by dusk the crowds are enormous. The burning candles. Widely
pilgrimage circuit or kora that runs clockwise around the available, it gives Jokhang
Jokhang is Tibet’s holiest and has been since the 7th century; its distinctive smell.
market stalls have always lined the route to serve the pilgrims
staying in the area. Many of the buildings in the Barkhor are
ancient, some dating back to the 8th century. Despite the
efforts of conservationists, some important buildings have
been demolished and replaced with less attractive traditional
architecture. Still, the Barkhor’s cobbled alleyways maintain a
unique, archaic character.

BARKHOR TROMSHUNG

. Jokhang Temple
The magnificent Jokhang, Tibet’s most
important religious structure, sits at the
heart of the Barkhor, and is the structure
around which the rest of Lhasa developed.

Key
Kora (holy route)

Prayer flags Incense burner
Two poles laden with flags Juniper bushes are
stand outside the Jokhang. burnt in the four stone
Vertical flag poles incense burners, or
originated in the Amdo sangkang, which mark
region, and represent battle the route of the kora.
flags that have become
signs of peace.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

LHASA 535

Tromzikhang
This 18th-century building once
housed government officials such
as the Ambans, representatives of
the Qing emperor. Now a housing
complex, all but the front was
destroyed in the 1980s.

The Jamkhang is a
15th-century building
housing a two-story
image of the Maitreya.

The Nangmano
complex is home
to 22 families.

JANG

BARKHOR . Meru Nyingba
Originally founded in the 9th
ONGTOBUK SANGLAM century, this monastery was

enlarged in the 1800s to
become the Lhasa residence

of the Nechung Oracle (see
p540). Beautifully restored in
1999, the building includes a

wing of public housing.

An ancient shrine
dedicated to Palden

Lhamo, the female
protector of Lhasa, is

surrounded by
modern buildings.

Labrang NyingbaHUNG LHO
was once home
to the 5th Dalai
Lama and
Tsongkhapa
at different

M S times.

BARKHOR TRO 0 meters 50
0 yards 50

BARKHOR

Stalls along the kora
Stalls selling all manner of intriguing bric-à-
brac, from cowboy hats to prayer flags, line

the entire pilgrimage route. The shops
behind the stalls have better quality goods,

including religious statuary, and carpets.

536 TIBET

Jokhang Temple

The constant bustle, gaudy paraphernalia of worship, Prostrating pilgrim
flickering butter lamps, and wreaths of heady incense The Jokhang is Tibet’s
make the Jokhang Temple one of Tibet’s most memorable most venerated site.
experiences. The Jokhang was founded in AD 639 to house an Pilgrims bow and
image of the Buddha brought as dowry by the Nepali Princess pray on the
Bhrikuti on her marriage to King Songtsen Gampo. Its location flagstones just
was chosen by another wife of the king, the Chinese consort outside the
Princess Wencheng. She declared that a giant female demon temple doors.
slumbered beneath the site and a temple must be built over
her heart to subdue her. After the king’s death, Wencheng’s
own dowry image of Jowo Sakyamuni was moved from the
Ramoche (see p532) to the Jokhang, where it was thought
to be safer from invading forces.

Courtyard
This open courtyard, or dukhang,
is the focus for ceremonies during
festivals. The long altar holding
hundreds of butter lamps marks
the entrance to the interior.

KEY

1 This stele is inscribed with Roof ornament Alternative
the terms of the Sino-Tibetan treaty The spokes of the wheel entrance
of AD 822, guaranteeing mutual of law represent the eight
respect for the borders of the paths to enlightenment.
two nations.

2 Just inside the entrance are the
four Guardian Kings, the Chokyong,
one for each cardinal direction.

3 The chapel of Songtsen
Gampo, where the king is flanked by
Wencheng on the right and Bhrikuti
on the left.

4 The chapel of Tsongkhapa has
an impressive and accurate image of
the founder of the Gelugpa order.

5 The Jampa enshrined here is a
copy of the one brought to Tibet by
Princess Bhrikuti.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

LHASA 537

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
The Barkhor, Lhasa. Open
8:30am–5:30pm daily. Visit
from left to right clockwise.
Inner Chapels Open 8am–noon.
& _ Monlam, during the first
lunar month.

. Chapel of Chenresig
A large statue of Chenresig, the
Bodhisattva of compassion,

dominates this room. The doors
and frames, crafted by Nepalis
in the 7th century, are
among the few remains
of the original temple.

. Chapel of Jowo Sakyamuni
Pilgrims crowd around this
impassive statue of the
12-year-old Sakyamuni to

make offerings and pray. Part of
Princess Wencheng’s dowry, it is
the most revered image in Tibet.

Prayer Wheels . Inner Sanctum
Pilgrims spin the This houses some of the Jokhang’s most important statues,
wheels on a route including images of Guru Rinpoche, the Jampa and a
that surrounds the thousand-armed Chenresig. The chapels lining the walls
inner chapel called are visited clockwise, and there’s a line for the holiest,
the Nangkor, one of with monks at hand to enforce crowd discipline.
the three sacred
circuits of Lhasa.

538 TIBET

Potala Palace

Built on Lhasa’s highest point, Marpo Hill, the Potala . Golden Roofs
Palace is the greatest monumental structure in Tibet. Seeming to float above the palace,
Thirteen stories high, with over a thousand rooms, it the gilded roofs (actually copper)
was once the residence of Tibet’s chief monk and cover funerary chapels dedicated
leader, the Dalai Lama, and therefore the center for to previous Dalai Lamas.
both spiritual and temporal power. These days, after
the present Dalai Lama’s escape to India in 1959, it is a
vast museum, serving as a reminder of Tibet’s rich and
devoutly religious culture, although major political
events and religious ceremonies are still held here.
The first palace was built by Songtsen Gampo in 631,
and this was merged into the larger building that
stands today. There are two main sections – the White
Palace, built in 1645 under orders from the 5th Dalai
Lama, and the Red Palace, completed in 1693.

. Chapel of the 13th . 3D Mandala
Dalai Lama This intricate mandala
The bejeweled stupa of a palace, covered in
of the 13th Dalai precious metals and jewels,
Lama, containing embodies aspects of the
his mummified path to enlightenment.
remains, is nearly
13 m (43 ft) high.

KEY

1 The base is purely structural,
holding the palaces onto the
steep hill.

2 Red Palace Courtyard
3 The Chapel of the 5th Dalai
Lama contains a stupa gilded with
around 6,600 lb (3,700 kg) of gold.
4 Maitreya Chapel
5 East Sunshine Apartment
6 The Eastern Courtyard
7 School of Religious Officials
8 Defensive Eastern Bastion
9 Thangka Storehouse

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

LHASA 539

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Beijing Zhong Road, Lhasa.
(0891) 683 4362. Open 8:30am–
5pm daily. & Book in advance.
Tickets are timed, so be sure not
to miss your spot. ^ in chapels,
otherwise extra charges for
photography. 8 Not suitable for
those who find stairs a problem.

View from the Red Palace
On a clear day the view over the valley and on
to the mountains beyond is unequaled, although
the newer parts of Lhasa are less impressive.

White Palace
The entrance to the
main building has a
triple stairway – the
middle set of stairs is

for the sole use of
the Dalai Lama.

Heavenly King Murals
The East Entrance has
sumptuous images of

the Four Heavenly Kings,
Buddhist guardian figures.

The Western Hall
Located on the first floor of the Red Palace,
the largest hall inside the Potala contains
the holy throne of the 6th Dalai Lama.

540 TIBET

Exploring Around Lhasa before it and drink from a holy
conch shell. The Tara Chapel
Lhasa’s environs are dotted with the major monasteries of next door contains wooden
Drepung, Nechung, Sera, and Ganden. Easily accessible from racks of scriptures and a statue
Lhasa by bus, minibus, or hired vehicle, these are ideal for of Prajnaparamita, the Mother
day-trips. Agencies in Lhasa hire out landcruisers along with of Buddhas and an aspect of
a driver and guide. Vehicles can take up to five people – if the goddess Tara; the amulet on
looking to share the cost with others, check the bulletin her lap contains a tooth said to
boards in backpacker hotels. Make sure that any monasteries belong to Tsongkhapa. Behind
you plan to visit are listed on your travel permit. the Tsogchen, the little Manjusri
Temple has a relief image of
the Bodhisattva of Wisdom,
Jampalyang, chiseled out of
rock. The circuit continues
north to the Ngagpa College,
then to various colleges
toward the southeast.

Each building contains fine
sculptures, though some might
prefer to skip them and rest in
the courtyard outside the
Tsogchen. Those who are
acclimatized can walk round the
Drepung kora or pilgrim circuit,
which passes rock paintings and
the cave dwellings of nuns, and
offers great views.

A typically gory tantric painting at Nechung Monastery  Nechung Monastery

4 miles (7 km) W of Lhasa. Open

 Drepung Monastery decorated with suits of armor. 8am–4pm daily (chapels close
5 miles (8 km) W of Lhasa. Open There is plenty of statuary, with between noon–3pm). &

8am–4pm daily (chapels close the finest images in the Chapel A fifteen-minute walk southeast
between noon–3pm). & of the Three Ages at the back from Drepung, Nechung

Drepung, meaning “rice heap,” of the Main Assembly Hall. Monastery was the seat of the

was founded in 1416 by At the hall’s entrance, stairs Tibetan Oracle. The Oracle not

Jamyang Choje, a disciple of lead to the upper floor from only predicted the future, but

Tsongkhapa, the founder of where it is possible to see the also protected the Buddha’s

the Gelugpa or Yellow Hat massive head and shoulders of teachings and his followers.

order of monks (see p524). In its the Maitreya Buddha, the future During consultations with the

heyday in the 17th-century, it Buddha or Jampa, rising up Dalai Lama, the Oracle, dressed

was Tibet’s richest monastery, three stories. Pilgrims prostrate in an elaborate and weighty

with four colleges and 10,000

monks; today there are around Thangkas and Mandalas
500 to 600.

The site is vast and the easiest Thangkas are religious paintings mounted on brocade that carry

way to get around is to follow painted or embroidered images inside a colored border. Seen in

the pilgrims, who circle the temples, monasteries, and homes, they depict subjects as diverse

complex clockwise. From the as the lives of Buddhas, Tibetan theology and astrology, and
entrance, turn left to the mandalas or geometric representations of the
Ganden Palace, built in 1530 as cosmos. The Tashilunpo Monastery (see
a residence by the 2nd Dalai p548) displays gigantic thangkas
Lama. His rather plain apartments during its festivals each year.
are upstairs on the seventh Mandalas are often used as
floor. The courtyard is usually meditation aids by Buddhists and
busy with woodcarvers and are based on a pattern of circles
block-printers creating prayer and squares around a central focal
prints at great speed. Next is the point. The Potala Palace in Lhasa
Tsogchen or Main Assembly (see pp538–9) has a splendid three-
Hall, the most atmospheric dimensional mandala made of
precious metal. Monks spend days

building in the complex. About creating mandalas of colored sand

180 pillars hold up the roof, that are swept away on completion Mandala symbolizing

and the room is draped with to signify the transient nature of life. the universe

thangkas and hangings and

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

LHASA 541

main entrance, takes about an
hour to complete and passes
some beautiful rock reliefs.

 Ganden Monastery
28 miles (45 km) E of Lhasa. @
Shuttle from the square at Jokhang
Temple. Open 8:50am–4pm daily. &

The farthest of the monasteries

from Lhasa, Ganden is probably

the one most worth visiting,

with its scenic setting high on

the Gokpori Ridge. To get a feel

of the place, it is best to travel

with the excited pilgrims on the

Monks engaged in group debates at Sera Monastery bus that leaves from Lhasa’s

Barkhor area every morning at

costume, would go into a trance striking building in the complex 6:30am, returning at 2pm. The

before making his pronounce- is the Tsogchen located farthest monastery was founded in 1410

ments, concluding the session up the hill. It features wall- by Tsongkhapa, and its main

in a dead faint. Tibet’s last Oracle length thangkas, a throne building, the Serdung

fled to India in 1959, and now that was used by the 13th Lhakhang, has as its

the monastery has only a few Dalai Lama, and images centerpiece a huge

caretaker monks. Nechung’s of him and of Sakya gold and silver

decor is startling as the courtyard Yeshe, the founder of chorten (stupa or

outside is filled with gory Sera monastery. At funerary mound)

paintings and demon torturers. the top of the path with Tsongkhapa’s

Within the chapels, leering stands the open-air remains. However,

sculptures of skulls loom out of debating courtyard. Rock painting, the buildings are
the gloom. The airy Audience The monks assemble Sera Monastery not its main appeal.
Chamber on the second floor is here for debates and Its highlight is the

a welcome respite. Here, the their ritualized gestures – kora, which takes an hour to

Dalai Lama used to consult the clapping hands and stamping walk. The circuit offers fine

Oracle. The roof-level chapel is when a point is made – which views of the landscape and a

dedicated to Padmasambhava, are fascinating to watch. The chorten or two that pilgrims

the Tantric Buddha, also known Sera kora, or pilgrim circuit (and visitors if they wish) must

as Guru Rinpoche. which heads west from the hop around on one leg.

 Sera Monastery A domestic yak on the steep hills surrounding Ganden Monastery
2 miles (4 km) N of Lhasa.
Open 3–5pm daily. &

Founded in 1419 by disciples
of the Gelugpa order, Sera
Monastery was famous for its
warrior monks, the Dob-dob.
Once home to 5,000 monks,
today there are less than one-
tenth that number, although
the energetic renovation
suggests that this may improve.

Activity centers around its
three colleges, visited in a
clockwise circuit. Turn left from
the main path to reach the first
college, Sera Me, that was used
for instruction in Buddhist
basics. Sera Ngagpa, a little
farther up the hill, was for tantric
studies and Sera Je, next to it,
was for teaching visiting monks.
Each building has a dimly lit
main hall and chapels toward
the back that are full of
sculptures. The largest and most





544 TIBET

2 Samye Monastery

With its ordered design, wealth of religious treasures, and . Jowo Sakyamuni Chapel
stunning location, Samye makes a deep impression on Samye’s most revered chapel
visitors. Tibet’s first monastery, Samye was founded in the 8th centers on an image of
century during Trisong Detsen’s reign with the input of the Sakyamuni at age 38. He is
great Buddhist teacher, Guru Rinpoche. Indian and Chinese flanked by two protector deities
scholars, invited to Samye to translate Buddhist scriptures and ten Bodhisattvas.
into Tibetan, argued over the interpretation of doctrine, and
so Trisong Detsen held a public debate to decide which form
of Buddhism should be followed in Tibet. The Indian school
won out and Chinese religious influence gradually waned.
Today the monastery has a well-worn and eclectic feel,
having been influenced by numerous sects over the years.

. Chenresig Chapel
This chapel centers on a
stunning statue of
Chenresig, with an eye
painstakingly painted on
each of its thousand hands.

Exploring the Ütse KEY
The Ütse is dimly lit, so take a flashlight to explore.
The entrance leads directly into the Main Hall, with 1 Monks live in quarters on the
the Chenresig Chapel to the left and the Gongkhan upper level of the outer wall.
Chapel to the right. The Jowo Sakyamuni Chapel is
at the far end of the Main Hall. Numerous chapels 2 The outer wall facing the Ütse
and the Dalai Lama’s quarters are located on the is lined with prayer wheels and
second story. The third story has an open gallery elaborate murals of Buddha.
lined with impressive murals.
3 The mural to the left of the
View of Samye Monastery entrance on the third story depicts
A superb view of the monastery can be had from the the 5th Dalai Lama receiving the
surrounding hills. From here it is easy to see that the Mongol Khan Gushri and his retinue.
monastery is laid out as a 3-D mandala (see p540).
4 Gongkhan Chapel is packed
A herder and his flock alongside the Yamzhog Yumco, a sacred lake with draped statues of fierce
demons. A stuffed snake guards
the exit.

5 The inscription on this stone
stele (779 AD) declares that King
Trisong Detsen has proclaimed
Buddhism as the state religion.

6 The main hall houses images
and statues of Guru Rinpoche and
the Buddhist kings, Trisong Detsen
and Songtsen Gampo.

TIBET 545

Guru Rinpoche VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
An 8th-century monk-king
from Swat in modern-day Practical Information
Pakistan, he is said to have 93 miles (150 km) SE of Lhasa.
subdued evil demons and & ^ unless fee paid.
established Buddhism in _ Samye Festival, 15th day
Tibet. Images of him carrying of fifth lunar month.
a thunderbolt are found
throughout the complex. Transport
@ Travel to Samye must be
arranged by a travel agency.

Quarters of the Dalai Lama
This simple apartment, consisting of
anteroom, bedroom and throne room,

is full of relics, including Guru
Rinpoche’s hair and walking stick.

Main entrance

Plan of Samye Complex Triple Mani Main entrance Pehar Kordzoling,
Lhakhang Red chorten protector chapel
Samye’s design echoes Tibetan
Buddhism’s cosmology of the Jampa Ling Black chorten
universe. Many of the 108
buildings have been destroyed, Green chorten
but the four ling chapels
representing the island continents Entrance
that surround Mount Sumeru (the to Ütse
Ütse) are still intact. Jampa Ling
holds an impressive mural of the White
complex as it once was. The chorten
circular monastery wall is topped
with 1,008 chortens that represent Aryapalo Ling
Chakravla, the ring of 1,008 moun-
tains that surrounds the universe.

0 meters 150
0 yards 150

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

546 TIBET

Nomad tents, at the edge of the breathtaking Namtso Lake

3 Tsurphu authorities and the Dalai Lama. 4 Namtso Lake
Monastery The flood of daily pilgrims who
came for blessings has now 125 miles (200 km) NW of Lhasa. 4WD
Tolung Valley. 45 miles (70 km) W of stopped and the monastery is rented from Lhasa, 2–3 day round-trip.
Lhasa. @ daily from Barkhor Square rather quiet, though several Open daily. &
in Lhasa. Last bus back to Lhasa, 3pm. hundred monks still reside here.
4WD rented from Lhasa, 2–3 hrs. Beautiful Namtso Lake, with its
Open 9am–2pm daily. & The Karmapa’s throne, an classic Tibetan scenery of azure
Situated at an altitude of 14,700 object of great veneration, is water beneath snowcapped
ft (4,480 m), this monastery was in the audience chamber of the peaks and grasslands dotted
founded in the 12th century by main hall. Here, a chorten with herds of yak, has made it
the Karmapa or Black Hats order (stupa or funerary mound) the most popular overnight jeep
and is important as the home of contains the relics of the 16th trip from Lhasa. About 45 miles
the Karmapa Lama, the third Karmapa, who died in Chicago (70 km) long and 19 miles (30
most important religious leader in 1981. The kora from behind km) wide, it is the second largest
in Tibet after the Dalai and the monastery takes 3 hours, saltwater lake in China after
Panchen Lamas (see p548). The and provides magnificent Qinghai Hu (see p503). The flat
present incumbent, the 17th views but beware – visitors
Karmapa, fled to India in 1999 at must be acclimatized.
the age of 14. His departure was
significant as he was the only The Eight Auspicious Symbols Conch Shell
senior Tibetan Buddhist official Endless Knot
recognized by both the Chinese The Eight Auspicious Symbols represent the Wheel of Law
offerings that were presented to Sakyamuni
One of the many brightly-colored murals Buddha, after he attained Enlightenment.
at Tsurphu Monastery Born as Siddhartha Gautama, prince of the
kingdom of Kapilavastu, he renounced his
princely life at the age of 30, and went in
search of answers to the meaning of
human suffering and existence. After
years of penance, Siddhartha attained
Enlightenment after meditating under
a Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya, India. Tibetans
regard the symbols as protective motifs
and use them to decorate flags and
medallions as well as tiles in Buddhist
temples, monasteries, and homes. The
Conch Shell is blown to celebrate Sakyamuni’s
Enlightenment; the Endless Knot represents
harmony, and the never-ending passage of
time; and the Wheel of Law symbolizes the
Buddha’s eightfold path to Enlightenment.
Other symbols include the Golden Fish,
representing liberation from the Wheel of Life,
and the Lotus Flower that represents purity.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

TIBET 547

land around it offers good The British Invasion of Tibet
grazing, and is usually ringed
with nomad encampments in Alarmed by the growing influence of Tsarist Russia in the 19th
summer. From November to
May, the lake freezes over and is century, Britain’s viceroy in India sent a diplomatic mission to Tibet
impossible to reach. Most
people stay a night at Tashi Dor, in an effort to build links and facilitate the free flow of trade. When
a monastery on a lakeside hill.
Bring a flashlight and a warm the mission failed, an expeditionary force – part of the Great
sleeping bag. The lake is situated
at the incredible height of 15,500 Game (see p495) – of 1,000 soldiers and
ft (4,718 m), so visitors must be
thoroughly acclimatized. 10,000 porters, led by the dashing

26-year-old Colonel Francis

Younghusband, invaded Tibet in 1903.

As the force traveled inward, they killed

almost 700 peasants, who were armed

in part with magic charms to ward off

bullets. Then, in the world’s highest

battle, the British captured Gyantse

Fort with only four casualties, while the

Tibetans lost hundreds of men. The force

proceeded to Lhasa, where an agreement Francis

allowed Britain to set up trade missions. Younghusband

Highly decorated doorway to the main northwest is a compound Chode Monastery was designed
chapel, Kumbum, Gyantse housing the Kumbum and for all the local Buddhist sects to
Pelkor Chode Monastery. use; its Assembly Hall has two
5 Gyantse thrones, one for the Dalai Lama
The Kumbum, constructed and one for the Sakya Lama. The
158 miles (255 km) SW of Lhasa. around 1440, is a six-story and main chapel at the back of the
Minibus: alternate days from Lhasa 115-ft (35-m) high chorten, hall has a statue of Sakyamuni,
bus station. 4WD from Lhasa. Travel honeycombed with chapels. It is the Historical Buddha, and some
Permits: required (see p523). built in an architectural style impressive wooden roof
unique to Tibet and this is the decorations. At the top, the
An attractive, if dusty, small town, finest extant example. A clock- Shalyekhang Chapel has some
Gyantse is the sixth largest town wise route leads up past chapels fine mandalas (see p540).
in Tibet, famous for its carpets and full of statuary and decorated
usually visited en route to Nepal with 14th-century murals – On the way to Gyantse it is
(see p551). Often called “Heroic kumbum means “a hundred worth taking a detour to see
City,” it was originally capital of thousand images.” On the sixth beautiful Yamdrok Lake, one
a 14th-century kingdom, and floor, painted pairs of eyes, of the four holy Tibetan lakes.
the remnants of its old Dzong, signifying the all-seeing eyes of
or fort watches over the town. Buddha, look out in each of the + Dzong
Heavily bombarded during the cardinal directions. The staircase Open Mon–Sat. &
British invasion in 1904, when in the eastern chapel leads into
it was captured at great loss of the chorten’s dome. There are  Kumbum & Pelkor Chode
life to the Tibetans, it is today a views from the top. Built 20 Monastery
dramatic ruin with a small years after Kumbum, the Pelkor Open 8:30am–5:30pm Mon–Sat
museum. Here, Chinese (closed noon–3pm). &
propaganda describes the
“heroic battle fought to defend Kumbum, Gyantse, a three-dimensional mandala
the Chinese motherland,”
although at that time China had
no authority over Tibet. The
Dzong offers good views from
its roof. About 650 ft (200 m)

548 TIBET

6 Shigatse & Tashilunpo in 1959 during the Tibetan
uprising, and rebuilt on a
Capital of the Tsang region, Shigatse sits at an elevation smaller scale in 2007. You can
of 12,800 ft (3,900 m). To its north, the Drolma Ridge rises walk around the Dzong but
steeply, topped by the ruins of the ancient Dzong, once you can’t enter it. A kora or
home to the kings of Tsang. Shigatse holds a powerful holy route, marked by prayer
position in Tibet, and was the capital for a spell during the flags and mani stones, leads
early 17th century. After Lhasa regained its status, Shigatse here from the west side of
continued to hold sway as the home of the Panchen Lama, Tashilunpo. Keep your distance
Tibet’s second most important religious ruler, whose seat from the packs of stray dogs.
is located at Tashilunpo Monastery, the town’s grandest
sight. Worth exploring for a day or two, Shigatse is the ( Tibetan Market
most comfortable place in Tibet after Lhasa, with decent At the Dzong’s southern base
food and accommodations on offer. on Tomzigang Lu stands a
small Tibetan market selling
market for a Tibetan souvenirs, such as prayer wheels
carpet. The process and incense, and a few Tibetan
is sufficiently necessities – medicine, legs of
interesting to warrant lamb, and large knives. Just to
a visit even if you the west of the market is an old
have no intention traditionally Tibetan neighbor-
of buying. A project hood of narrow lanes and tall
initiated by the 10th whitewashed walls.
Panchen Lama in
A group of carpet makers tying richly colored wool into 1987, the business is
intricate knots part-owned by the
monastery. Shipping
can be arranged on
the premises.

( Gang Gyen Carpet Factory P Dzong Stall selling religious regalia at the
9 Zhu Feng Lu. Tel (0892) 882 6192. The leaders of Tsang once ruled Tibetan Market
Open 9am–1pm & 3–7pm Mon–Sat. from the mighty fortress of
∑ tibetgang-gyencarpet.com Shigatse Dzong, in the north of  Tashilunpo Monastery
town, built in the 14th century Tel (0892) 882 2114. Open Summer:
This factory, where local by Karma Phuntso Namgyel, a 9am–12:30pm & 4–6pm Mon–Sat;
women produce beautiful powerful Tsang king. It once Winter: 10am–noon & 3–6pm
carpets, first skeining the wool resembled a small Potala but Mon–Sat. &
then weaving it, is the place was destroyed by the Chinese
to come if you are in the A huge monastic compound
of golden-roofed venerable
The 11th Panchen Lama buildings and cobbled lanes,
Tashilunpo would take several
The death of the 10th Panchen Lama in 1989 brought Tibet’s leaders days to explore fully. It was
and the Chinese government into conflict over succession. Like the founded in 1447 by Genden
seat of the Dalai Lama, the Panchen Lama’s position is passed on Drup, retrospectively titled the
through reincarnation. Traditionally, upon the death of either of 1st Dalai Lama. It grew suddenly
these leaders, top monks scour the land hoping to identify the new important in 1642, when the 5th
Dalai Lama declared his teacher,
incarnate. In 1995, after an extensive search, the Dalai the monastery’s abbot, to be a
Lama named a six-year-old boy, Gedhun Choeki reincarnation of the Amithaba
Nyima, as the 11th Panchen Lama. The chosen boy Buddha and the fourth
and his family soon disappeared and have not reincarnation of the Panchen
been seen since. Keen to handpick the next Lama, or great teacher. Ever
Dalai Lama’s teacher, the Chinese since it has been the seat of the
authorities sanctioned a clandestine Panchen Lamas, who are second
ceremony which ordained Gyancain in authority to the Dalai Lama.
Norbu as the “official Panchen Lama” and
immediately whisked him off to Beijing.

Young Gyancain Norbu, the China-sanctioned
11th Panchen Lama

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85