DK Eyewitness Travel Guide_ China

TIBET 549

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
172 miles (278 km) W of Lhasa.
* 92,000. @ Arrange travel to
Shigatse through a travel agency
in Lhasa. _ Tashilunpo: 2nd
week of 5th lunar month.

Majestic Tashilunpo Monastery with Drolma Ridge rising behind holds the imposing throne
of the Panchen Lamas.
Head up the main path to the Continue west for the Chapel
Those with energy left can
back of the compound for the of Jampa, which holds the follow the monastery kora,
which takes about an hour.
most impressive sights. The monastery’s most impressive It runs clockwise around the
outside of the walls before
gold and silver chorten straight artifact, an 85-ft (26-m) golden heading up to the Dzong. You’ll
pass colorful rock reliefs, some
ahead holds the remains of image of Jampa, the future of Guru Rinpoche, and the huge
white wall where a thangka of
the 4th Panchen Lama. Buddha, made in 1914. It took Buddha is exposed to the sun
during the three-day long
Built in 1662, it was the almost a thousand Tashilunpo Festival.

only funeral chorten in artisans four years to P Summer Palace of the
Panchen Lamas
the monastery to complete using more Zhade Dong Lu. Open 9:30am–noon
& 4–6pm daily. &
escape destruction than 600 pounds
South of Tashilunpo Monastery
during the Cultural (275 kg) of gold. is the Panchen Lamas’ summer
palace, constructed in 1954.
Revolution. The The complex of There are some excellent wall
paintings inside the complex,
larger, jewel studded buildings on the east and the gardens are a pleasant
place to stroll.
chorten just to the side is the Kelsang.

west holds the The Wheel of Law, It centers around

remains of the an auspicious symbol a courtyard where

10th Panchen Lama, monks can be

who died in 1989; it was observed praying, debating,

constructed in 1994 at a cost and relaxing. The 15th-century

of eight million US dollars. Assembly Hall on the west side

Shigatse City Center Dzong QU RONG MEITANG ROAD

1 Gang Gyen Carpet Factory Tibetan
2 Dzong Market
3 Tibetan Market SHANGHAI ZHONG ROAD
4 Tashilunpo Monastery BEIJING BEI LU
5 Summer Palace of the
XUE QIANG ROAD
Panchen Lamas

Minibus
Stand

Ridge QING D I AO DONG ROAD
LHASA
Drolma

Tashilunpo XI GE
Monastery ZI ROAD

ZHU FENG ROAD ZHU FENG ROAD
Shigatse Bus
0 meters 500 SUMMER PALACE Gang Gyen Station
0 yards 500 OF THE PANCHEN Carpet Factory
LAMAS GYANTSE
1 km (0.6 miles)

Key to Symbols see back flap

550 TIBET

7 Sakya Monastery lamas. Sakya houses are
traditionally painted gray with
250 miles (402 km) SW of Lhasa. red and white vertical stripes;
Travel must be arranged by a travel the colors are supposed to
agency in Lhasa. Open 9am–6:30pm symbolize the Bodhisattvas
Mon–Sat. & fee. Travel Permit Channa Dorje, Jampalyang,
required (see p523). and Chenresig respectively.

The town of Sakya is dominated Detail from wall painting at Sakya 8 Everest Base
by the huge, fortress-like Monastery Camp
monastery, that looms up from
the gray plains. Sakya, or “Gray Palace, the traditional home of Rongphu: 336 miles (610 km) SW
Soil” in Tibetan, was the capital one of the two head lamas, who of Lhasa. 4WD from Lhasa, 2 days;
of all Tibet in the 13th century, now lives overseas. Apart from must be arranged through a travel
when monks of the Sakyapa the statue-filled chapel, its agency in Lhasa. Travel Permits
order formed an extraordinary rooms are mainly empty. required (see p523).
alliance with the Mongols. In Moving clockwise, the next
1247, the head of the Sakyapa chapel, the Purkhang, holds Despite the spine-jarring, four-
order, Sakya Pandita, traveled images of Jowo Sakyamuni and hour trip off the Friendship
to Mongolia and made a pact, Jampalyang among others, Highway – that connects
whereby the Mongols were while wall murals depict tantric Lhasa to the Nepal border at
the overlords, while the Sakya deities. The Main Assembly Hall Zhangmu – the craggy lunar
monks ruled as their regents – has 40 huge wooden pillars, one landscape en route to Everest
the first time a lama was also of which was said to have been is enchanting. Rongphu is a
head of state. His nephew, gifted by Kublai Khan, while good place for a stop and
Phagpa, later became the another is said to have come at 16,500 ft (4,980 m) is the
spiritual guide to the from India on the back of a tiger. highest monastery in the
conqueror of China, Kublai The elaborately decorated hall world. Although it has some
Khan. In 1354, Mongol power has rich brocades, statues, and good murals, the interior is not
waned, and in-fighting among butter lamps and holds as riveting as its stunning
the religious sects led to a thousands of religious texts location in front of Everest’s
decline in Sakya’s influence. (sutras). The fine central Buddha forbidding north face in the
image enshrines the remains of Rongphu Valley. The monastery
Originally, there were two Phagpa. The chapel to the north was founded in 1902 on a site
monasteries on either side of has 11 silver chortens containing that had been used by nuns
the Trum River, but the northern the remains of previous Sakya as a meditation retreat for
one was destroyed during the centuries, and is now home
Cultural Revolution (see pp70– to some 30 monks.
71). The mid-13th century
Southern Monastery, built by Everest Base Camp lies
Phagpa, is a typical Mongol 5 miles (8 km) to the south.
structure, with thick walls and The trip across the glacial plain
watchtowers. The entrance takes about 15 minutes by
leads to a courtyard with an vehicle or two hours on foot.
enormous prayer pole in the It is just a jumble of tents, with
center. To the left is the Puntsok a makeshift tea-house and the
world’s highest post box, but
Houses at Sakya Village, painted gray with red and white stripes the views of Mount Everest, the
world’s highest mountain at a
staggering 29,029 ft (8,848 m),
are absolutely unforgettable.

The entire Rongphu and
Everest area has been
designated a nature reserve that
covers 13,100 sq miles (34,000
sq km), and borders three
national parks in Nepal. There
is a spectacular viewpoint at the
Pangla Pass, from which you
can see Everest (known as
Chomolungma in Tibetan),
Cho Oyo, Lhotse, Makalu, and
Gyachung. Most people try to

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

TIBET 551

Everest Base Camp, with magnificent views of the world’s highest mountain

arrive at this pass either to see mountains that are densely the mountainside, this frontier
the sun rise or the sun set over wooded; the change of scenery town has a gaudy vibrance.
the Himalayas. is startling after the desert Border formalities to get into
landscape of the high, arid Nepal are fairly cursory. The
The rarefied air at this altitude plateau. It is only another 20 Nepalese immigration post,
(17,000 ft/5,150 m) makes any miles (33 km) to the border 6 miles (10 km) farther down
strenuous activity impossible, town of Zhangmu, which is at Kodari, will issue a single-
however, so unless visitors are relatively low and oxygen-rich entry visa, though visitors
properly acclimatized, it is best at 7,200 ft (2,200 m). Although have to pay in US dollars and
to go all the way back to the much of Zhangmu consists of provide a passport photo.
Friendship Highway and carry slightly dilapidated shacks, From here, it is a four-hour
on to the town of Shegar to perched above one another on trip to Kathmandu.
spend the night.

9 The Nepal Border The Friendship Highway

Zhangmu: Nepal border. 466 miles The 466-mile (750-km) route between Lhasa and the Nepal border,
(750 km) SW of Lhasa. Taxi 4WD from known as the Friendship Highway, is probably the most popular
Lhasa, 2 days (direct), or 5–6 days (via journey for visitors to Tibet and includes some important
Gyantse, Shigatse & Everest Base sightseeing detours along the way. Many agencies in Lhasa and in
Camp). Travel must be arranged Kathmandu in Nepal can arrange the trip, sort out the necessary
through a travel agency in Lhasa. permits, and provide an appropriate four-wheel drive vehicle, a
Travel Permit for all places (between driver, and guide. Depending on the itinerary, which usually includes
Shigatse and border) required the towns of Shigatse and Gyantse, the trip can take up to a week.
(see p523). Visitors must ensure that the contract specifies exactly what they
want and what they are paying for.
The Friendship Highway
connecting Lhasa to the Friendship Highway, winding across the plateau to Nepal
Nepal border is one of Tibet’s
most popular link routes. From
the Rongphu turn-off along
the highway, it is another
31 miles (50 km) west to Tingri,
on what is a surprisingly good
road. This is a small, traditional
Tibetan town with good views
of the Everest range. After
climbing for 56 miles (90 km)
the road begins a steep,
winding descent through



TRAVELERS’
NEEDS

Where to Stay 554–563
Where to Eat & Drink 564–585
Shops & Markets 586–589
Entertainment 590–591
Sports &
592–595
Specialist Holidays

554 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

An abundance of accommodation options is but if you have not done so, do not panic,
available in China for most of the year. Four- unless you are traveling during one of the high
and five-star hotels, increasingly run by either seasons – the first week of May and October,
major international chains or expanding and Chinese New Year (Spring Festival).
Chinese hotel companies, are plentiful in Although you may want to book some of your
major cities and tourist destinations. In other stay (the first few nights, for example, to ease
cities and towns, there are many mid-range your arrival), it is perfectly feasible to turn up
hotels and budget options to choose from. at your hotel of choice, bargain cheerfully, and
Ideally, rooms should be booked in advance, book yourself a room at a sizable discount.

Hotel Chains standard of these services. Spacious and comfortable suite at
Therefore, no matter how Amanfayun in Hangzhou (see p560)
Visitors in search of international poorly these facilities may be
standards of comfort and maintained, no star is ever lost At the upper end of the
service should stick either to once it is given. Rather than be budget spectrum, the Motel
five-star hotels managed by involved in this system, some 168 and Jinjiang Inn chains
familiar Western chains or to international hotels choose to offer excellent rooms with free
the luxury Asian brands. go starless. These establish- Internet, private bathroom, and
Starwood hotels (such as ments can be far superior to TV at affordable rates. Home
Sheraton, W, and Westin) are Chinese-run properties. As a Inns and Green Tree Inns are
well represented in China. general rule for Chinese-run good budget brands with free
Other international chains – hotels, the newer the hotel, Internet. Rooms at all these
such as Accor, Hilton, Hyatt, the better the facilities. chains can be booked online.
Kempinski, Ritz-Carlton,
Shangri-La, and Marriott – all Visit www.ctrip.com and Camping is not an option in
have hotels in the major cities; www.elong.com to find the China. Pitching a tent, except
check their websites for details. best deals, check out the in the most far-flung places, is
location and prices of hotels, certain to attract attention, and
Chinese-run hotels do their and make online bookings. you are likely to get a visit from
best to emulate Western the police. Staying in a ger, the
operations. The published Budget Hotels & round homes of the nomadic
rack rates of Chinese four- Other Types of Mongols and Kazakhs, can be
and five-star hotels are indeed Accommodations arranged in Inner Mongolia
comparable, but the level of and Xinjiang. However, these
service does not match their Budget travelers will find a overnight camps are targeted
Western counterparts just yet. choice of inexpensive options at tourists, so it may not be an
Standards are fast improving, all across the mainland and in authentic experience. Some
however, and there is a willing- Hong Kong. Away from the monasteries and lamaseries
ness to please, especially away larger cities, dormitory beds for have pilgrims’ inns where you
from the main tourist areas. around ¥40 are easily available. are welcome to stay for a
Youth hostels with spotless minimal fee, but conditions
The Chinese star system of facilities and beds costing can be very austere. On holy
grading hotels is meaningless. about ¥50 are beginning to mountains, such as Emei Shan,
Although authorities have open up in some metropolises. you will find many temples that
devised a checklist of facilities Many universities will also offer basic but atmospheric
that hotels must provide within rent out vacant rooms. accommodations for travelers.
each grade, there is no proper
system of monitoring the

Palatial lobby of Shangri-La Hotel in Suzhou (see p560)
A selection of ornate and colorful traditional prayer wheels

WHERE TO STAY 555

rooms,” with a single bed in a
relatively small space for a
cheaper price. However, rooms
described as “single” usually refer
to those with a double bed, and
can be occupied by two people,
although they usually cost
slightly less than twin-bed
rooms of the same size.

The display of certain credit
card symbols at hotels does not
guarantee that the international
versions of these cards will be
accepted. It is therefore
important to confirm that your
card will be accepted before
checking in. Most of the upper-
tier hotels do take credit cards;
in smaller establishments, be
prepared to pay in renminbi.

Harbor views from Upper House in Hong Kong (see p561) Costs

Choosing a Hotel their rates down drastically, The prices quoted by major
especially if the room in question international hotels do not
The newest hotels are usually would otherwise go empty. include service charges or local
the best, as most owners seem Discounts of 10 to 20 percent bed taxes, although the latter
to resist carrying out repairs are standard, 30 to 40 percent are rarely levied. Many Chinese-
unless they are absolutely very common, and 50 percent run upper-end hotels have
necessary. New hotels are not unusual. Try for larger begun to levy service charges
constantly springing up in discounts, especially in locations between 5 and 15 percent.
various parts of the country in with seasonal demand. Foreign visitors should check
the hope of benefiting from the their bills carefully before paying.
growth in domestic tourism. Booking online in advance via Note that minibar contents are
Some are one-off operations sites such as ctrip.com, elong. as overpriced in China as
started by private businesses, com, or hostelworld.com is anywhere else. Costs for phone
but most belong to Chinese another good way to obtain calls from even modest hotels
chains building pan-China a bargain. This is also true of are usually computer-monitored,
hotel portfolios. Hotels run most foreign-run hotels. and a service charge will be
by the police, banks, tobacco added on top of the actual cost
companies, post offices, and The introduction of double of the call. Most Chinese-run,
other businesses are aspiring beds of various sizes in Chinese- and many foreign-owned, hotels
to compete with long-standing run hotels (rather than the in China offer free Wi-Fi. Check
establishments run by local standard twin single beds) has before booking, and if the hotel
governments. Any hotel with led to some confusion. Older you choose charges for Internet
a decent website or the word hotels and a few newer ones use, pick somewhere down the
“business“ in the title is likely do indeed have regular “single street that doesn’t.
to be relatively new and offer
good services.

Booking a Hotel Traditionally designed courtyard at The Linden Centre in Dali (see p562)

In China, the real price of a hotel
room is what the customer is
willing to pay. Locals always
ask for a discount, and you
should too. The days of official
surcharges for non-Chinese
customers are long gone.
Although many hotels still
quote higher prices to foreign
visitors, they are amenable to
hard bargaining and will bring

556 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Seasonal Demand Richly furnished lobby at the JIA Shanghai hotel in Shanghai (see p559)

While rooms are readily General Observations Though it is simpler to arrange
available in China for most & Precautions transport services through your
of the year, the busiest travel hotel, be aware that this might
periods are during the week- Check-out time is usually noon, cost more than it would if you
long national holidays, but visitors can pay half the found a taxi on your own. It is
principally around the Chinese nightly rate to keep the room wiser to simply walk onto the
New Year (January or February) until 6pm. Chinese regulations street and flag down a passing
and October 1. Unlike the West, require all non-residents to be vehicle. Taxis hovering near the
very few people in China have out of hotel rooms by 11pm, but doors of hotels in popular
discretionary holidays, so almost this is widely ignored. Although tourist destinations should be
everyone in the country seems foreign-exchange facilities are approached with caution.
to be traveling at the same time. usually open seven days a week
Another time to avoid traveling at most of the better hotels, When surveying hotels,
is during the Spring Festival, these facilities can be used travelers must remember
when accommodation is almost only by registered guests. that the pictures they see
impossible to find. The exact on brochures and websites
dates are not fixed far in Many hotels, including some almost always date to the time
advance, but as soon as they establishments with foreign of opening, and are unlikely to
are declared transport and management, advertise facilities represent the current condition
accommodation costs shoot up. such as nightclubs, hair and of the rooms. You should also
beauty salons, and karaoke not be swayed by the promise
Spring and autumn, with bars, but these are often fronts of saunas, fitness centers,
their milder temperatures for prostitution. Be wary of swimming pools, or Jacuzzis,
and lower humidity, are more unexpected telephone calls especially in Chinese-run
popular seasons for traveling to your room offering anmo, hotels in remote areas, as the
than summer or winter, which or massage. It is best to presence of these in brochures
are both extreme. In summer, disconnect your phone if you does not indicate that they
some of the cooler destinations wish to avoid being solicited. are still working or fit for use.
within reasonable reach of large Most importantly, the rates
cities – such as the island of mentioned are not fixed.
Putuo Shan, served by short
flights and ferries from Shanghai
– can be very crowded and
expensive during weekends,
but very cheap during the
week. Other events that affect
transport costs and room
availability are the festivals
of ethnic minorities, particularly
in the southwest, and trade
events such as the biannual
fair in Guangzhou.

The imposing façade of Shangri-La Hotel in Xian (see p559) Facilities for Children
& the Disabled

Children are welcome
everywhere in China, although
special facilities for them in
hotels are rare. Most hotels
allow children under 12 years
to stay with their parents free
of charge. Most hotels will
also add an extra bed for an
older child for a nominal (and
usually negotiable) fee. Groups
of four, including two children
over 12, can sometimes share
a room, though parents may
be required to pay for two
rooms. However, many older,

WHERE TO STAY 557

Chinese-run hotels have three- service charge on top of your options for visitors to choose
and four-bed rooms that are bill in any case. Some Chinese from, from Art Deco gems in
ideal for families. hotels have started to add Shanghai to one of China’s first
these charges as well. hotels to cater to foreigners in
In general, China is not an Harbin. Those who enjoy the
easy destination for the disabled. Recommended Hotels flexibility of a self-catered stay
Only the newest and best inter- should look for properties in
national hotels make any serious The hotels on pages 558–63 the apartment category. China
effort to provide wheelchair cover a huge variety of accom- has many budget options
access or fully adapted rooms. modation options from simple where rooms are neat and clean
Most places have standard hostels and budget hotels to and there are also numerous
suites with inconveniently historic establishments and hostels where guests can stay in
placed light switches, although luxury retreats. They are listed communal dormitories. Hotels
some have wider bathroom by price within each area. Luxury that fall under the Business
doors to allow wheelchairs. hotels number among the most category feature amenities from
However, most hotels have upscale options in town, with Wi-Fi and business centers to
elevators, so booking a ground- high standards of rooms and meeting rooms with audio and
floor room is not necessary. service par for the course. visual technology.

Tipping China’s boutique hotel Finally, hotels featured as DK
industry is booming of late, Choice are special establishments
As tipping is not very common and this category can include that are highly recommended
in China, hotel staff don’t usually everything from slick and trendy for an exceptional quality,
expect to be tipped. The operations in a city, to rural be it a great spa, beautifully
international hotels will be homestays with just a few designed rooms, or an
charging you a 5 to 15 percent rooms. There are many historic ecologically sustainable outlook.

Classy interiors at the luxurious Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund hotel in Shanghai (see p560)

DIRECTORY

Hotel Chains Kempinski Shangri-La Home Inns
Tel 1-800 426 3135 (US). Tel 1-866 565 5050 (US). ∑ homeinns.com
Accor Tel 020 7198 8405 (UK). Tel 0800 028 3337 (UK).
Tel 1-800 221 4542 (US). ∑ kempinski.com ∑ shangri-la.com Jinjiang Inn
Tel 0871 663 0624 (UK). Tel 400 820 9999.
∑ accorhotels.com Marriott Starwood ∑ jinjianginns.com
Tel 1-888 236 2427 (US). (Sheraton, W, Westin)
Hilton Tel 0800 1927 1927 (UK). Tel 1-800 80 1855 (US). Motel 168
Tel 1-800 445 8667 (US). ∑ marriott.com Tel 020 3564 6335 (UK). Tel 400 820 7168.
Tel 08705 909 090 (UK). ∑ starwood.com ∑ motel168.com
∑ hilton.com Ritz-Carlton
Tel 1-800 542 8680 (US). Budget Hotels Booking a Hotel
Hyatt Tel 0800 2413 3333 (UK).
Tel 1-800 233 1234 (US). ∑ ritzcarlton.com Green Tree Inns Useful websites
Tel 0845 888 1234 (UK). ∑ 998.com ∑ ctrip.com
∑ hyatt.com ∑ elong.com
∑ hostelworld.com

558 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

Hotel de Cour SL ¥¥¥ Price Guide
Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Beijing Boutique high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
70 Yan Yue Hutong, Dongcheng
¥ under ¥400
Downtown Backpackers ¥ district ¥¥ ¥400 to ¥1,000
¥¥¥ over ¥1,000
Hostel Map 2 D3 Tel (010) 6512 8020

85 Nanluoguxiang, Chaoyang district ∑ hotelcotecourbj.com

Tel (010) 8400 2429 Elegant rooms combine modern

∑ backpackingchina.com amenities with antique surrounds.

Cheerful place close to the city’s Hebei, Tianjin
& Shanxi
most funky hutong (alleyway). Hotel Eclat ¥¥¥
BEIDAIHE: Beidaihe Hotel ¥
Great for visitors on a tight budget. Luxury Rooms with a view
316 Lianfeng Rd
9 Dongdaqiao Jie, Chaoyang district Tel (0335) 4680 555
A large hotel with great ocean
Hotel G ¥¥ Tel (010) 8561 2888 views. There are few English
speakers here, so guests should
Boutique ∑ eclathotels.com/beijing be prepared to use a phrasebook.

7 Workers Stadium West Road, This slightly offbeat luxury hotel

Chaoyang district boasts a superb art collection.

Tel (010) 6552 3600

∑ hotel-g.com Park Hyatt ¥¥¥

Glam, glitzy and gorgeous by Luxury

design, with in-room Wi-Fi. 2 Jianguomen Outer St,

Popular bar and fusion restaurant. Chaoyang district

Tel (010) 8567 1234 CHENGDE: Mountain

The Red Capital Residence ¥¥ ∑ beijing.park.hyatt.com Resort Hotel ¥

Boutique Map 2 E4 Rooms at this 63-story hotel boast Budget

9 Dongsi Liutiao, Dong Cheng district marble baths. Superlative service. 11 Lizhengmen

Tel (010) 8403 5308 Tel (0314) 2091 188

∑ redcapitalclub.com.cn The Aman at the Clean, basic rooms in a well-

An exotic five-room guesthouse Summer Palace ¥¥¥ known hotel at a great location,

decked with antique furniture and Luxury opposite the main entrance to

Communist Party memorabilia. 1 Gongmenqian St, Summer Palace, the Mountain Resort.

Haidian district

The Schoolhouse ¥¥ Tel (010) 5987 9999 DATONG: Garden Hotel ¥
Business
Boutique ∑ amanresorts.com 59 Danan Street
Tel (0352) 5865 888
Mutianyu Town, Huairou district Stay in century-old pavilions at this ∑ datonghotels.com
Well located and geared for
Tel (010) 6162 6505 retreat next to the Summer Palace. foreigners, this hotel wins
plaudits for service. It also
∑ theschoolhouseatmutianyu.com runs a number of tours to
nearby attractions.
Stay at the eco-resort or hire a The Opposite House ¥¥¥

well-appointed village home with Boutique

amazing views of the Great Wall. 1 Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang district

Tel (010) 6417 6688

China World Summit Wing ¥¥¥ ∑ theoppositehouse.com

Luxury Map 4 F1 A hotel, club, and restaurant with

1 Jianguomenwai Avenue, a stunning green glass exterior. TAIYUAN: Chateau Star

Chaoyang district River Taiyuan ¥¥

Tel (010) 6505 2299 The Peninsula Beijing ¥¥¥ Luxury

∑ shangri-la.com Luxury Map 2 E5 2 Xinghe West Rd

Rooms high up in the China 8 Jinyu Hutong, Dong Cheng district Tel (0351) 7698 866

World Trade Center have ultra- Tel (010) 8516 2888 ∑ chateaustarriver.com

modern interiors and great views. ∑ beijing.peninsula.com Beautiful hotel with a pool. Non-

Beijing‘s grand dame of style and Chinese speakers may struggle to

DK Choice service, with a highly rated spa. make themselves understood.

Duge Courtyard Boutique

Hotel ¥¥¥

Luxury Map 2 D3

26 Qianyuanensi Hutong,

Nanluoguxiang, Chaoyang district

Tel (010) 6406 0686

∑ dugecourtyard.com

This luxurious hideaway was

part-created by jeweler and

interior designer Jehanne de

Biolley – no surprise given the

hotel‘s precious gem-like color

scheme. Each one of the 10

rooms is unique, and the stun-

ning Imperial Suite, which is

decorated with burnished gold,

will make guests feel like royalty.

Opulent suite at the China World Summit Wing in Beijing

WHERE TO STAY 559

TIANJIN: St Regis Tianjin ¥¥ Shaanxi
Luxury
158 Zhangzizhong Rd XI’AN: Xiangzimen
Tel (022) 5830 9999 International Youth Hostel ¥
∑ starwoodhotels.com Boutique
Plush hotel along the picturesque 16 Xiangzimiao Jie
River Hai offering flawless service. Tel (029) 6286 7888
∑ yhachina.com
TIANJIN: Tangla Hotel Tianjin ¥¥ A building with Chinese-style
Luxury decor near the city wall’s south
9F-A, Huanmao Business Centre, gate and street food markets.
No. 219 Nanjing Road
Tel (022) 2321 5888 XI’AN: Citadines Central Xi’an ¥¥
∑ tanglahotels.com Apartments
Spacious, well-furnished rooms 36 Zhubashi Lu
with spectacular city views. Tel (029) 8576 1188
∑ citadines.com
TIANJIN: The Astor Hotel Spacious, clean apartments
with kitchenettes and well-
Tianjin ¥¥ equipped rooms. Great location. Designer rooms at JIA Shanghai
in Shanghai
Historic

33 Taier Zhuang Road

Tel (022) 2331 1688 Hyatt on the Bund ¥¥¥

∑ starwoodhotels.com XI’AN: Sofitel Xi’an on Luxury

This restored 1863 hotel evokes a Renmin Square ¥¥ 199 Huangpu Lu, Hongkou district

bygone era. Ask for a room in the Luxury Tel (021) 6393 1234

old wing for a taste of antiquity. 319 Dong Xin Street ∑ shanghai.bund.hyatt.com

Tel (029) 8792 8888 A modern hotel with all the latest

∑ sofitel.com/xian amenities, a spa, and restaurant.

A stylish property with spotless

Shandong & Henan rooms and excellent breakfasts. JIA Shanghai ¥¥¥

Boutique

JI’NAN: Sofitel Silver Plaza ¥¥ XI’AN: Shangri-La Hotel ¥¥¥ 931 Nanjing Xi Lu, Jing’an district
Luxury Luxury
66 Luoyuan Dajie 38B Keji Lu Tel (021) 6217 9000
Tel (0531) 8606 8888 Tel (029) 8875 8888
∑ sofitel.com/asia ∑ shangri-la.com ∑ jiashanghai.com
This modern hotel incorporates This beautiful hotel is within
European elements in its decor. walking distance of the local Philippe Starck-design in a vibrant
attractions. Friendly staff, modern
rooms, and a huge gym. location. Evening cocktails and

laundry are included in the rates.

Les Suites Orient ¥¥¥

LUOYANG: Peony Hotel ¥ Boutique

Budget 1 Jinling Dong Lu

15 Zhongzhou West Lu XI’AN: Sheraton Xi’an ¥¥¥ Tel (021) 6320 0088

Tel (0379) 6558 8123 Business ∑ lessuitesorient.com

∑ peonyhotel.net 262 Fenghao Dong Lu This smart hotel fuses Art Deco

Staid, reliable option with English- Tel (029) 8426 1888 design with traditional Oriental

speaking staff. Breakfast included. ∑ sheratonhotels.com style. Iconic views over the river.

Business-friendly hotel with large

QINGDAO: Huiquan rooms featuring walk-in showers. DK Choice

Dynasty Hotel ¥ Praise-worthy breakfasts.

Rooms with a view Mansion Hotel ¥¥¥

6 Nanhai Lu Historic

Tel (0532) 8299 988 82 Xinle Lu, Xuhui district

∑ hqdynasty.com Shanghai Tel (021) 5403 9888

Chic hotel opposite the beach. ∑ chinamansionhotel.com

Ask for a room with a sea view. Magnolia ¥¥ Beautifully renovated 32-room

B&B hotel in the heart of the French

QINGDAO: Hyatt Regency ¥¥ 36 Yanqing Lu, Xuhui district Concession. Set in what was
Rooms with a view
88 Donghai East Lu Tel (138) 1794 0848 once an infamous gangster’s
Tel (0532) 8612 1234
∑ qingdao.regency.hyatt.com ∑ magnoliabnbshanghai.com home, the hotel is a special
A smart hotel near Sho Lao
Ren beach. Rooms on the Five rooms spread over four treat for those interested in
upper floors have fine views.
floors in a house built in 1927, Shanghai’s racy history. Rooms

brimming with an authentic feel. are priced in US dollars.

Fairmont Peace Hotel ¥¥¥

Historic The Peninsula Hotel ¥¥¥

QINGDAO: Shangri-La ¥¥ 20 Nanjing Dong Lu, Huangpu Luxury

Luxury district 32 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, near

9 Xiang Gang Zhong Lu Tel (021) 6321 6888 Beijing Dong Lu, Huangpu district

Tel (0532) 3883 838 ∑ fairmont.com Tel (021) 2327 2888

∑ shangri-la.com Shanghai's most famous heritage ∑ peninsula.com

Enjoy the full array of the facilities hotel, this Art Deco gem is Experience superlative luxury at

at this deluxe hotel close to outstanding in terms of its decor The Peninsula, from its elegant

stores, restaurants, and the coast. and historical interest. rooms to the open-air terrace.

For more information on types of hotels see page 554

560 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

NANJING: InterContinental DK Choice

Nanjing ¥¥¥ HANGZHOU: Amanfayun ¥¥¥
Luxury
Luxury 22 Fayun Jie, Xi Hu Jie
Tel (0571) 8732 9999
1 Zhongyang Lu ∑ amanresorts.com
Amanfayun is a quiet, ultra-
Tel (025) 4234 917 expensive resort for the rich
and famous, hidden in a
∑ ichotelsgroup.com picturesque valley amid the
verdant natural beauty of
This hotel towers over the city the tea gardens.

center. Two great restaurants.

SUZHOU: Hotel Soul Suzhou ¥¥ NANCHANG: Grand Skylight
Boutique International Hotel Nanchang ¥
27–33 Qiaosikong Xiang Business
Tel (0512) 6777 0777 AVIC International Plaza,
∑ hotelsoul.com.cn No. 1 Ganjiangbei Lu
Eye-catching trendy decor and a Tel (0791) 8206 6666
Suzhou-style rooftop garden. ∑ grandskylight-intl.com
A quiet hotel with helpful staff,
Sophisticated interiors of the deluxe DK Choice business facilities, and good food.
Amanfayun in Hangzhou
SUZHOU: Pinjiangfu

Suzhou Hotel ¥¥

The Puli Hotel and Spa ¥¥¥ Boutique
Luxury
1 Changde Rd, Jing’an district 60 Bai Ta Dong Lu
Tel (021) 3203 9999
∑ thepuli.com Tel (0512) 6770 6688
A sleek, urban resort with
spacious rooms, a knockout ∑ pingjiangpalace.com
restaurant, and a fancy spa.
This charming retreat set in a WENZHOU: Shangri-La

traditional courtyard is Wenzhou ¥¥

surrounded by centuries-old Luxury

Suzhou gardens. Rooms are 1 Xiangyuan Lu

lovingly furnished with smart, Tel (0577) 8998 8888

The Westin Bund Center ¥¥¥ contemporary interiors. ∑ shangri-la.com
Luxury
88 Henan Zhong Lu, Huangpu The city’s best hotel, situated in a
district
Tel (021) 6335 1888 skyscraper and renowned for its
∑ westin.com/shanghai
Attractive hotel with a distinctive SUZHOU: Shangri-La excellent service levels. Free Wi-Fi.
roof, Vegas-style light effects
and rooms with floor-to-ceiling Hotel Suzhou ¥¥
windows – most with views.
Luxury

168 Tayuan Lu

Tel (0512) 6808 0168 Hunan & Hubei

∑ shangri-la.com CHANGSHA: Dolton Hotel ¥¥
Business
Impeccable service and huge, 159 Shaoshan Bei Lu
Tel (0731) 8416 8888
well-appointed rooms. ∑ dolton-hotel.com
This hotel features a business
Waldorf Astoria Shanghai center plus an on-site health club.

on the Bund ¥¥¥ TUNXI: Huangshan DK Choice

Luxury Tunxi Lodge ¥ CHANGSHA: Wyndham
Grand Plaza Royale
88 Sichuan Zhong Lu Boutique Furongguo Changsha ¥¥¥
Luxury
Tel (021) 6322 9988 5/17 Lao Jie 106 Furong Zhong Lu
Tel (0731) 2074 421
∑ waldorfastoria3.hilton.com Tel (0559) 2580 880 ∑ wyndham.com
Though a little way out of town,
This multi-award-winning hotel ∑ the-silk-road.com this lavish hotel lives up to its
five-star rating. The lobby is
offers flawless service and vistas Traditionally styled rooms on Old truly majestic and the rooms
well appointed. Some guests
across the skyline. Street, close to shops and cafés. say the breakfast buffet is the
best in China.
Waterhouse at South Bund ¥¥¥ Zhejiang & Jiangxi
Historic
3 Maojiayuan Rd, Huangpu HANGZHOU: West Lake
district
Tel (021) 6080 2918 Youth Hostel ¥
∑ waterhouseshanghai.com
A 1930s warehouse converted Hostel
into a swanky boutique hotel
with designer furniture. 62–3 Nan Shan Lu

Tel (0571) 8702 7027

∑ westlakehostel.com

Located on the banks of the lake,

near Leifeng Pagoda. Bright and

Jiangsu & Anhui spacious dorms and rooms.

NANJING: Orange Hotel ¥ HANGZHOU: Xihu State WUHAN: Jinjiang Inn Wuhan ¥
Budget
Budget Guesthouse ¥¥ Jiangtan Pedestrian St,
2 Dongting Lu
224 Zhong Lu Boutique Tel (027) 8209 999
∑ jinjianginns.com
Tel (025) 8696 6971 18 Yang Gong Causeway Excellent-value hotel in a superb
location. Helpful staff, too.
∑ orangehotel.com.cn Tel (0571) 8797 9889

Great-value accommodation in ∑ xihusgh.com

the city center, within walking A guesthouse with efficient staff,

distance of many attractions. stunning grounds, and lake views.

Key to Price Guide see page 558

WHERE TO STAY 561

WUHAN: Pathfinder ¥ DK Choice Hong Kong & Macau
International Youth Hostel
Hostel XIAMEN: Seaview Resort ¥¥ HONG KONG: Hullet House ¥¥¥
368 Zhongshan Lu Luxury
Tel (027) 8884 4092 3999 Huandao Nan Lu Historic Map 1 A3
∑ yhachina.com Tel (0592) 5023 333
Hip hostel with a pleasant ∑ xmseaview.com 2A Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
terrace and mixed dorms. Top-class resort located just
Chinese-style bathrooms. outside the city center. Rooms Tel (0852) 3988 0000
come with baths the size of hot
tubs, and many have private ∑ hulletthouse.com
pools or gardens. Dine at one
of the lovely restaurants dotted Housed in a stunning Colonial
around the stunning gardens.
Attentive staff. Book ahead. building, this hotel features

WUHAN: Marco Polo uniquely-decorated suites, all

Hotel Wuhan ¥¥ with private balconies.

Business

159 Yanjiang Dajie HONG KONG: J Plus

Tel (027) 8277 8888 Boutique Hotel ¥¥¥

∑ marcopolohotels.com Boutique

This riverfront property with 1–5 Irving St, Causeway Bay

large, airy rooms is a good Tel (0852) 3196 9000

choice for corporate travelers. Guangdong & ∑ jplushongkong.com
Hainan
Designed by Philippe Starck, with

quirky rooms. Rates include

breakfast and evening cocktails.

Fujian GUANGZHOU: Journey House

Youth Hostel ¥ DK Choice

FUZHOU: Best Western Hostel

Fuzhou Fortune Hotel ¥¥ 27F Building 1 Jiayiyuan, HONG KONG: Upper

Business No. 445 Tianhe Bei Lu House ¥¥¥

220 Hualin Lu Clean, good-value hostel with Boutique Map 3 D4

Tel (0591) 8819 9999 kitchen. Shared bathrooms. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway

∑ bestwestern.com Tel (0852) 2918 1838

A well-appointed hotel offering GUANGZHOU: The Ritz-Carlton ∑ upperhouse.com

spacious rooms with free Wi-Fi. Guangzhou ¥¥¥ A stylish haven from one of Asia‘s

Complimentary breakfast. Luxury trendiest designers, Andre Fu.

3 Xing'an Lu, Pearl River New City Enjoy fabulous city views from

FUZHOU: Howard Johnson Tel (020) 3813 6688 the luxurious apartment-like
Riverfront Plaza Fuzhou ¥¥
Business ∑ ritzcarlton.com studios, which come with
6 Jiangbin Dong Dajie
Tel (0591) 8862 9999 Extravagant opulence and espresso machines and iPods.
∑ hojochina.com
Business-oriented hotel with impeccable service; home to one
large, well-maintained rooms.
Good value, with a spa and gym. of the top 10 restaurants in China.

HONG KONG: W Hong Kong ¥¥¥

DK Choice Luxury Map 1 B3

1 Austin Rd West, Kowloon

HAINAN: Banyan Tel (0852) 3717 2222

Tree Sanya ¥¥¥ ∑ starwoodhotels.com

FUZHOU: Shangri-La Hotel ¥¥ Luxury The W has the island’s best pool
Luxury
9 Xinquan Nan Lu Luhuitou Bay, 6 Luling Lu plus rooms with superb views.
Tel (0591) 8798 8888
∑ shangri-la.com Tel (0852) 8860 9988
A comfortable hotel with an old-
fashioned feel and one of the ∑ banyantree.com MACAU: Pousada de Mong-Ha ¥¥
best Korean restaurants in town.
Forty-nine pool villas are Boutique Map 2 D3

scattered around a sculpted Colina de Mong-Ha

tropical lagoon on Hainan Tel (0853) 2851 5222

Island, China’s premier beach ∑ ift.edu.mo

destination. The hotel offers Rooms are decorated in traditional

XIAMEN: Remy’s very high standards of service. Portugeuese style at this quiet inn.

Garden Hotel ¥

Boutique

65 Kangtai Lu, Gulangyu Island SHENZHEN: Zen Guest House ¥
Guesthouse
Tel (0592) 5944 5994 75 Dawei Cun,Dongchong
Tel (0755) 3070 7874
∑ remygardenhotel.com ∑ zen-guesthouse.com
Located close to the beach.
Unusual, snug place offering one- Simple rooms and a rooftop patio.

and two-bedroom apartments,

some with terraces, on Gulangyu

Island. Book in advance.

XIAMEN: Xiamen International SHENZHEN: St Regis

Youth Hostel ¥ Shenzhen ¥¥¥

Hostel Luxury

41Nanhua Lu 5016 Shennan Dong Lu

Tel (0592) 2082 345 Tel (0755) 8308 8888

∑ yhaxm.com ∑ stregis.com

Friendly hostel with mixed dorms. One of Shenzhen's tallest build-

Beds have curtains for privacy. ings. Rooms come with various Fashionable studio at the Upper House
in Hong Kong
Laundry and storage facilities. extras, including a butler service.

For more information on types of hotels see page 554

562 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Sichuan & DEQIN: Banyan Tree Ringha ¥¥¥ GUILIN: Shangri-La
Chongqing Boutique
Hong Po Village, Jian Tang Town, Hotel Guilin ¥¥¥
Shangrila County
Tel (0887) 8288 822 Luxury
∑ banyantree.com
This peaceful rural retreat offers 111 Huancheng North Er Lu
accommodations in luxuriously
CHENGDU: BuddhaZen appointed Tibetan-style villas. Tel (0773) 6808 0168

Hotel ¥ ∑ shangri-la.com

Boutique The plushest hotel in Guilin,

B6–6, Wenshufang Jie offering a pool and rooms with

Tel (028) 8692 9898 river views. Operates tours, too.

∑ buddhazenhotel.com

Lovely hotel with well-appointed KUNMING: Lost Garden NANNING: Nanning

rooms. The in-house restaurant Guest House ¥ Marriott Hotel ¥¥¥

serves delicious local food. Hostel Luxury

7 Yiqiutian, Huanggong Dong Jie, 131 Min Zu Boulevard

DK Choice Cuihu Nan Lu Tel (0771) 5366 688

Tel (0871) 6511 1127 ∑ marriott.com

CHENGDU: The Loft ∑ lostgardenguesthouse.com Comfortable rooms, professional

Design Hostel ¥ Spotless rooms and a small service, and a spa.

Hostel western-style restaurant are to

4 Xiaotong Alley, Zhongtongren Lu be found at this charming hostel. YANGSHUO: Tea Cozy ¥¥

Tel (028) 8626 5770 Friendly staff. Boutique

∑ dragontown.com.cn/loft 212 Xiatang Village, Baisha Town

A stylish and quirky hostel in a KUNMING: Green Lake Hotel ¥¥¥ Tel (0773) 8816 158
Luxury
converted factory, with both 6 Cuihu Nan Lu ∑ yangshuoteacozy.com
Tel (0871) 5155 333
dorms and private rooms with ∑ greenlakehotel.com Traditional Chinese-style rooms
Elegant public spaces and rooms
en suite bathrooms. The staff beside Kunming’s famous lake. with tastefully fitted wooden

are helpful in assisting with furnishings. Breathtaking views.

travel arrangements and tours.

CHONGQING: Beity Hot Spring LIJIANG: No.188 Boutique Hotel ¥ Liaoning, Jilin &
Boutique Heilongjiang
Tourism Resort ¥¥ 188 Bayi Lower Section, Qiyi Jie
Tel (0888) 6536 6679
Luxury Traditional Naxi rooms run by a
friendly manager. Great location
288 Nongke Dajie in the Old Town. DALIAN: Howard Johnson
Parkland Hotel
Tel (023) 6571 8888 Business ¥¥
95 Huizhan Lu
∑ cqbeity.com Tel (0411) 8499 0000
∑ hotelparklanddalian.
Surrounded by mountains,
hojochina.com
villas at this popular resort are A quiet business hotel on
Xinghai Square. Rooms have
scattered around a small lake. LIJIANG: Crowne Plaza Hotel sea or mountain views.

Rooms come with hot tubs and Lijiang Ancient Town ¥¥¥

there also huge outdoor springs Luxury

for guests to soak in. 276 Xianghe Lu

Tel (0888) 4234 917

CHONGQING: Somerset ∑ ichotelsgroup.com

Jiefangbei Chongqing ¥¥ Thoughtfully-designed rooms HARBIN: Kazy

Apartments with extras such as Wi-Fi and iPod International Hostel ¥

Block B Hejing Building, docks. The lobby boasts stunning Hostel

No. 108 Minzu Lu views of Jade Dragon Snow 82 Tongjiang Jie

Tel (023) 8677 6888 Mountain. Large breakfast buffet. Tel (0411) 8763 3400

∑ somerset.com ∑ snowtour.cn

Serviced apartments with pano- A popular hostel in a former

ramic views of the city. There is a church with both private rooms

pool plus great facilities for kids. Guizhou & Guangxi and dorms. Good central location.

GUILIN: Jing Guan Ming Lou

Holiday Hotel ¥

Yunnan Boutique

DK Choice 9 Ronghu Nan Lu

DALI: The Linden Centre ¥¥¥ Tel (0773) 2283 265
Boutique
5 Chengbei, Xizhou Town ∑ jingguanminglou.
Tel (0872) 2452 988
∑ linden-centre.com chinahotel.com
An eco-friendly resort where
guests can experience tradi- This friendly lakeside hotel offers
tional village life albeit in
comfort. The 14 rooms are set a unique style of decor.
around a scenic courtyard in a
national heritage site. Rates GUILIN: Lakeside Inn ¥
include meals and excursions.
Boutique

1-1-2 Shan Lake Building,

Shan Lake Bei Lu

Tel (0773) 2806 806

∑ guilin-hostel.com

Beautifully located by the lake-

side, this tiny guesthouse offers Spacious room at The Linden Centre,
in Dali, Yunnan
excellent hospitality.

Key to Price Guide see page 558

WHERE TO STAY 563

DK Choice Gansu & Qinghai

HARBIN: Modern Hotel ¥¥ DUNHUANG: Mogao Hotel ¥
Historic Budget
89 Zhongyang Jie 12 Mingshan Lu
Tel (0451) 8488 4000 Tel (0937) 8851 777
∑ hotel.hrbmodern.com A well-located no-frills hotel with
Built in 1906 in the heart of clean and comfortable rooms.
what is now the Old City, this
was the first international hotel DUNHUANG: Silk Road
in the area. Although it is now a
government-preserved historical Dunhuang Hotel ¥¥¥
site, it is still possible to stay in
the atmospheric old rooms. Luxury

SHENYANG: Lexington Plaza ¥¥ Dunyue Lu
Business
128 Harbin Lu Tel (0937) 8882 088
Tel (024) 2259 8888
∑ lexingtonshenyang.cn ∑ the-silk-road.com
Comfortable, well-maintained
rooms, and gym facilities. North China’s best-known hotel Restaurant at the Silk Road Dunhuang
Hotel, Dunhuang
for trips on the Silk Road. Lovely

views of the sand dunes.

ÜRÜMQI: Bestay Hotel Express

LANZHOU: Legend Hotel ¥¥ Ürümqi Hongshan ¥
Business
529 Tianshui Nan Lu Budget
Tel (0931) 8532 888
∑ lanzhoulegendhotel.com 49 Yangzijiang Lu
Well-equipped, friendly hotel
conveniently located for the Tel (0991) 4581 999
railway station and airport shuttle.
∑ bestay.com.cn

Inner Mongolia Small, clean rooms near the
& Ningxia
railway station and night market.
HOHHOT: Binyue Hostel
Hostel ¥ XIAHE: Zhuoma Guesthouse ¥ ÜRÜMQI: Bayinhe Hotel ¥¥
52 Zhaowuda Lu Boutique Boutique
Tel (0471) 6605 666 Renmin Xi Lu 71 Wenhua Lu
∑ yhachina.com Tel (0941) 7121 274 Tel (0991) 2219 999
Simple rooms are clean and A popular hotel near the Labrang Music-themed hotel with space-
spacious. Good value. Monastery. Clean rooms and a age showers. Great service.
welcoming Tibetan restaurant.

HOHHOT: Shangri-La Tibet

Hotel Hohhot ¥¥¥ LHASA: Phuntsok Khasang
International Youth Hostel ¥
Luxury Xinjiang Hostel
48 Duosenge Bei Lu
5 Linguole Nan Lu Tel (0891) 6927 618
∑ yhachina.com
Tel (0471) 3366 888 KASHGAR: Kashgar Old Town The most popular hostel in Lhasa
is near the Potala Palace. Choose
∑ shangri-la.com Youth Hostel ¥ from dorms, singles and doubles.

Hohhot’s first international Hostel LHASA: Shambhala Palace ¥¥
Boutique
deluxe hotel has a plethora of 233 Wusitangboyi Lu 16 Taibeng Gang Wengdui Xingka
Sangdong Yuan
restaurants and leisure facilities. Tel (0998) 2823 262 Tel (0891) 6326 695
∑ shambhalaserai.com
∑ pamirinn.com An atmospheric hotel with
traditional Tibetan decor. Great
XILINHOT: Shengli The most popular budget option views of the city and Potala Palace.

Business Hotel ¥¥ from which to explore the town. LHASA: St Regis Lhasa ¥¥¥
Luxury
Business 22 Jiangsu Lu
Tel (891) 6808 888
Xilin Square KASHGAR: Tianyuan ∑ starwoodhotels.com
Fabulous pool and spa, excellent
Tel (0479) 8818 956 International Hotel ¥¥ service, and rooms with views.

Elegantly decorated, this Business SHIGATSE: Shigatse Hotel ¥¥
Business
conveniently-located hotel is a 8 Renmin Dong Lu 12 Shanghai Zhong Lu
Tel (0892) 8800 336
good choice for business travelers. Tel (0998) 2801 111 Large hotel with clean rooms and
enthusiastic staff.
∑ xjairport.com/hotel/index.asp

XILINHOT: Yuanhe A centrally located hotel with

Jianguo Hotel ¥¥¥ agreeable rooms. Free Wi-Fi.

Business

6 Nanjing Lu DK Choice

Tel (0479) 8299 400 TURPAN: Silk Road Lodges ¥¥
Boutique
∑ yhjghotel.com Muna’er Lu, Muna’er Village
Tel (0995) 8568 333
One of the city’s few higher-end ∑ silkroadlodges.com
Located in a traditional Uighar
hotels. Enjoy the western-style settlement, guests can experi-
ence local village life firsthand
breakfast and friendly service. while relaxing in comfortable
surroundings. There are fine
YINCHUAN: Yuehai Hotel ¥¥ views overlooking the vineyards.
Luxury
1A Helanshan Lu
Tel (0951) 5696 888
∑ yuehaihotel.cn
Deluxe hotel with a gym, pool,
and a garden with a pagoda.

For more information on types of hotels see page 554

564 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Can any other nation rival China’s obsession pale imitations of Chinese food from back
with food? Instead of “How are you?” Chinese home. As you travel around the country
people greet each other with Ni chi fan le ma? you will enjoy a culinary journey, too.
– “Have you eaten yet?” Once your travels From the wheat noodles, lamb kabobs,
begin, you may ask yourself a similar question and Peking duck of the north, venture east
– have you really eaten Chinese food before? to taste the braised crabs and abalone of
For the Middle Kingdom serves up cuisine of Shanghai, west to try the fiery feasts of
such variety and delight that mealtimes there Sichuan, and south to “dot the heart” with
will soon dissolve the taste memories of the a thousand different Cantonese dim sum.

Eating together, an important part of any meal or snack the 6th century AD still sets
the standards for today’s chefs:
A Divine Pleasure every part of domesticated or a recipe states that roasted
wild animals. Bustling markets, suckling pig should “melt in
“Food is a divine pleasure,” runs and even some mealtimes, are the mouth like ice.” Over the
a traditional saying. China’s not for the squeamish, but the centuries, countless men of
fascination with food stems from daring will learn how fish heads, letters have sung the glories of
the ancient worship of gods and pig’s trotters, chicken intestine, food. Song-dynasty poet Su
spirits, when emperors were duck webs, sea slugs, and bull’s Dongpo penned a famous ode
carried to temples or sacred testicles can be prepared as to pork, and even today Dongpo
peaks to guarantee good delicacies. Imagine how many pork remains Hangzhou’s most
harvests with sacrifices of meat lives scorpions, fried and full of celebrated dish.
and rice wine. Today, any event protein, could save in a famine?
can prompt a feast where The ancient philosophy of
families bond, relationships The First Fast Food yin and yang – the blending of
grow, disputes are resolved, and contrasts and duality of nature –
business deals are concluded. Although boiling and steaming applies to culinary matters in
For Chinese people, food is not are popular, Chinese cuisine is China as much as to spiritual
just a social lubricant, but the best known for stir-frying. Meat ones. Achieving the right
cornerstone of their culture. and vegetables are cut into harmony of yin (soft, cold, dark,
small pieces and fried briefly in and feminine) and yang (strong,
A Famine Cuisine hot oil, thus saving on fuel and hot, bright, and masculine) will
equipment without sacrificing ensure good health, not just a
One of China’s problems has the taste. There is little saving good meal. Cooling yin foods –
been: how can such a large in terms of work time, but for example, most vegetables,
population (currently a fifth of labor is the one resource of crab, tofu – must complement
the world’s people) feed itself which China has no shortage. warming yang – meat, chilies.
when less than 10 percent of Hence, in menu planning,
its land is arable? The answer The Culinary Arts there should be meat dishes
lies in centuries of innovation as well as vegetable, hot and
in the fields and in the kitchen. According to records, China’s cold, sweet and sour, plain and
The Chinese have developed earliest master of gastronomy, spicy. Even meat dishes rarely
a “famine cuisine,” cherishing Yi Yin, cooked for the first Shang contain meat alone, while the
wild plants like bamboo emperor way back in the 16th basic ingredients of stir-frying –
shoots, lotus roots, seaweed, century BC. One cookbook from
fungi, and moss, and utilizing Scorpion kebabs – cooking renders the
sting ineffective

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 565

Steaming food on the street – simple, fast, and efficient Spring Festival dinner, the
whole family cooks tangyuan,
scallions and ginger – are yin an art form with a special round sweet dumplings made
of glutinous rice flour, because
and yang, as well. Additionally, vocabulary and a set of rules. yuan can also mean “reunion.”
Fish is particularly auspicious,
a balanced diet should include If xian (an elusive, sweet but because the character for fish
(yu) sounds like the one for
appropriate proportions of both natural freshness) captures “abundance” and offers the
hope of good fortune in the
fan (grains) and cai (vegetables), the soul of a food, cui (a crisp year ahead. Jiaozi (meat
dumplings) are another New
and not too much meat. crunchiness like the skin of Year favorite, as their shape is
said to resemble the symbol
perfect Peking duck) is the for prosperity. Birthdays are
often celebrated with noodles,
You Are What You Eat goal of most Chinese cooking. a symbol of longevity.
Trained Chinese palates
Recommended
Nutritionists were attached to distinguish five different flavors Restaurants

the Zhou court back in the 7th – sweet, sour, bitter, pungent, One thing guaranteed in China
is that you will never go hungry,
century BC, for the Chinese salty – and only the right as even the smallest village will
have at least a couple of basic
have long recognized combinations work. Foods rich restaurants, while major cities
are overrun – in Shanghai, for
the medicinal value in flavor combine well example, there are more than
20,000 restaurants, from hole-in-
of food. In the Chinese with textured foods the-wall noodle joints to some
of the most cutting-edge and
chef’s repertoire there is of little taste, such expensive establishments in
the world. The restaurant
a dish or an as sea cucumbers listings on pages 572–85 feature
as wide a selection as possible,
ingredient for and shark’s fin, from inexpensive to upmarket.
While focusing on Chinese
every poorly which absorb and cuisine such as traditional
places serving noodles, hotpot
organ or ailment. heighten the foods or stew, there is also a good
choice of great cafés, pizza
Some foods that are cooked with them. parlors, and restaurants serving
international cuisine.
meant to boost your
Establishments highlighted
qi, such as ginseng and Rice and Symbolism as DK Choice have been
bird’s nest soup, require chopsticks in Food selected in recognition of a
a small leap of faith as to special feature – this could be
exceptional cuisine, a fantastic
their efficacy; others, such as In a culture obsessed with atmosphere, excellent value or
a combination of these.
iron-rich duck blood, are more symbolism and eating, there are

obvious. In some cases, as in many foods that have earned

other cultures, animal parts are special meaning and are

believed to strengthen the consumed on certain occasions.

human equivalent: try duck Round mooncakes, dotted with

brain for increasing your moon-like duck egg yolks, are a

intelligence, ox tongue for must for family reunions at the

eloquence, and bull’s testicles Mid-Autumn Festival. At the

for greater sexual potency.

The Five Flavors Cooking Chinese-style – balancing colors, tastes, and textures

The Chinese are not really recipe-
bound. Amid the drama of the
flaming stir-fry, they seem to
take a more flexibile approach,
finely judging the right quantity
of each ingredient. Neverthe-
less, Chinese chefs are very
particular about flavor, aroma,
color, and texture. Each of these
properties has been elevated to

566 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Types of Restaurants Street Food

As China smartened up for

Whether you are looking to eat in the splendor of an imperial the Olympics and the World

pavilion in Beijing, a chic Shanghai café, or a busy Sichuan Expo, street vendors must

teahouse, you will find a restaurant boom taking place in sometimes play hide-and-seek
China. Freed from state control, entrepreneurs are thinking with the authorities. Yet their
up tempting new ways to indulge in the country’s favorite portable stalls form a vital
pastime. You never have to walk far to find restaurants in part of the everyday life of
China, selling cheap and

China and when you do, do not let first appearances put you popular foods such as

off – in contrast to the delicacy of the food, many gourmet breakfasts of dough sticks
restaurants boast simple decor and harsh lighting. Look (youtiao) and beancurd
instead for happy crowds of diners and a different concept (doujiang), or snacks like
of “atmosphere.” In Chinese eyes, the more lively and noisy scallion pancakes (jianbing),
sweet potatoes (shanyu)

(renao) a restaurant is, the better. roasted in old oil drums,

deep-fried beancurd cubes

(zhadoufu), and local fruits.

A reliable way to locate

delicious street food is to

stroll through a night market

(yeshi), a culinary and visual

feast where clouds of steam

escape from bamboo steamers

and the sky glows red from the

flames of oil drum stoves. The

sizzle of cooking and clamor of

vendors shouting for business

should stir your appetite and

if deep-fried scorpions or

Typical restaurant – busy and noisy with a utilitarian decor cicadas on skewers prove too

Open All Hours Hotel Food exotic, be assured that plenty
of other foods will take your

Early to bed, early to rise If you are tired and hungry, and fancy. If the food is hot and

was the pattern of Chinese staying at one of China’s more freshly cooked for you, hygiene

lives until the 1990s, leaving expensive hotels, then room problems are rare. The market

some foreign visitors caught service can provide comfort off Wanfujing Dajie (see p100),

out when planning mealtimes. with imitations of Western food. in Beijing, is the most famous,

While Chinese stomachs still But try to make it downstairs, but track down night markets

demand food earlier than their as most hotels offer a range of wherever you go, to enjoy the

Western counterparts, social cuisines within the premises. local delicacies and specialties.

and professional hours are In the main cities,

diversifying. You can breakfast some of the best

on the street by 6am, but all restaurants are located

hotels should serve breakfast in hotels, and you can

until 10am or later. Lunch is sample some excellent

typically from 11:30am until upscale Chinese

2:30pm, after which some cuisine. Contrary

restaurants shut until the to opinion, hotel

evening shift starts around restaurants do

5pm. In the evening closing not always serve

times can be very late, while overpriced, deliberately

some places never shut. bland Chinese food to

Booking is rare except for the appease foreign

most popular and high-end palates. However, home

establishments. Usually you to one of the world’s

can simply turn up; if the top cuisines, China has

restaurant is full, you may have a lot to offer. The more

to wait until a table comes free intrepid diner who

or have a drink at the bar. makes a few forays out-

Sometimes the owner will come side the comfort of

to your rescue by setting up a four-star hotel restaur-

makeshift table in the corner, ants will be sure to reap Dunhuang night market – food stalls for shoppers

or even out in the backyard. handsome dividends. buying spices, silks, and carpets

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK 567

Themed Restaurants Vegetarian Surprise

As urban tastes grow ever more The Chinese under-

sophisticated, restaurateurs race standing of a good life is

to catch up, opening restaurants inextricably associated with

with a special theme, cuisine, or meat. They find it hard to

setting, like a train carriage or understand why someone

mock prison. The character of who could afford to eat

these places is often nostalgic, meat would choose not to.

such as the old Beijing style (Lao Nevertheless, you will find

Beijing), where each guest is a few vegetarian restaurants

loudly greeted, and staff in pre- in big cities, often attached

Revolution uniforms clatter the to Buddhist temples, serving

teacups in welcome on your excellent vegetarian dishes to

table. The walls of Cultural worshipers and non-worshipers

Revolution restaurants are alike. Many of these have meaty

covered with bitter-sweet names, and are made in exact

Stall-holder making some xiaochi or“little memorabilia of that era, while imitation of their meat-filled

eats”in Dalian many Sichuan eateries have namesakes. Ordinary restaurants

Little Eats concentrated on rustic decor can lay on good vegetarian
to increase the appeal. meals too, as long as you can

Cheap and nourishing snacks repeat: “Wo chi su”, (“I eat

such as those found at night The Other China vegetables”) a few times and
markets are known collectively don’t mind the odd bit of meat

as xiaochi, or “little eats.” There is not only a wide spread or chicken stock turning up in

Restaurants that specialize in of regional cuisines across Han your bowl every now and then.

them are called xiaochidian; China, but also a whole range

they sell different types of of ethnic specialties offered by Foreign Food
noodles or dumplings, the many minority nation-

stuffed buns or alities from the Korean Western restaurants, now found

pancakes. Open border to the in all major cities, typically offer

early for breakfast, Tibetan plateau. Indian, Thai, Italian, and French,

they may serve The minorities’ or a fusion of international food.

simple stir-fried restaurants are an Some have justifiably earned

dishes too, and “exotic” attraction wide acclaim, such as Maison

shut only when for Chinese as well Boulud in Beijing, and M on

the last guest as foreign tourists. the Bund in Shanghai.

leaves. The setting is In Dai restaurants, In smaller cities, western

usually basic, but the Pretty colored offering the Thai-like restaurants are harder to find,

food is hearty, tasty, and dumplings cuisine of southern although Italian cuisine is the

very reasonably priced. Yunnan, guests are most common – ravioli and

Every city has its own local greeted with scented water, spaghetti are easy concepts

varieties, but the ultimate given a lucky charm, and later for the dumpling- and noodle-

“little eats” are the dim sum of invited to join in the singing loving Chinese to appreciate.

Cantonese cooking (see p288). and dancing. In Uighur Other Asian cuisines, namely

restaurants, serving food from Korean, Japanese, and Thai,

Fast Food the Muslim northwest, belly are also well represented,

dancing is sometimes on show. and more readily accepted.

The popularity of fast food

giants McDonald’s, Pizza Hut,

and KFC, now found in all cities,

has spurred Chinese firms to

compete. Yonghe King is an

impressive Taiwanese chain

serving up all-day breakfasts

of soya bean milk, congee (a

savory rice porridge), and spring

onion pancakes, while 85˚c is

a rapidly expanding coffee,

cake, and bread chain. If the

street stalls are a little too basic,

food courts in department

stores or malls are worth

exploring and are clean and

usually air-conditioned. Uighur bread stall in the market at Linxia, Gansu

568 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Food Customs and Etiquette tanks, cages, and supermarket-
type shelves. Your Chinese

Confucius was renowned for his silence at meals. The good friends (and waiters and

news, however, is that 2,500 years later, the Chinese are actually onlookers) will likely be

quite informal at meal times. In fact, a busy Chinese restaurant delighted by any interest you
can be a deafening place as waiters crash plates about and show in the whole experience.
diners shout orders at the waiters. It may seem daunting but In the end, when language or
phrase book fail, point at

just join in and expect praise for your chopstick skills – even whatever appeals on other

if you struggle, your willingness to try will be appreciated. tables, or even head into the

kitchen to find what you need.

A meal might begin with

cold starters such as pickled

vegetables, ten-thousand-year

old eggs, seasoned jellyfish,

or cold roasted meats.

When selecting main courses,

remember to aim for harmony

and balance – an equilibrium

of yin and yang. For example,

with sweet and sour pork,

you might order a spicy chicken

dish. Different cooking methods

are also important: a steamed

fish or roast pork add variety

to a series of stir-fried foods.

You shouldn’t need to ask for

Business dinner in a private room, still an enjoyable event a side order of vegetables as

Earning Some Face The Art of Ordering they are usually part of the
dishes – unless you want

The Chinese do not expect If you are someone’s guest, something specific.

visitors to be fully versed you may be asked to order The last dish, or cai, is usually

in proper banquet etiquette, something, or state some sort soup. Then comes fan, a grain

but awareness of a few of preference – if you do not staple such as rice, noodles,

essentials can earn “face” do so, a ten-course banquet or bread (mantou), without

both for yourself and your host, could soon appear. Feel free which a Chinese diner may

whatever the occasion. The to name your favorite dish, or feel they have not eaten.

other guests will appreciate that point at the object of your At informal meals you can

you have some respect for desire, often swimming in have rice at the start of

Chinese culture and traditions. a fish tank at the entrance to the meal, but not at a banquet,

When attending, or hosting, the restaurant. Freshness is all or your host will assume his

a formal meal, note that the important in Chinese cuisine. dishes are inadequate.

guest of honor is usually placed English-language menus Desserts are not a Chinese

on the seat in the middle, facing are becoming more common, tradition, but fresh fruit is almost

the door. The host, traditionally and an increasing number of always served in Chinese

positioned opposite the guest, restaurants actively encourage restaurants, especially at

now more often sits to his visitors to get out of their chairs banquets, and succulent

or her left. and choose ingredients from fruit is available nationwide.

If you come as a guest, be

punctual and do not sit down

until you are given your seat –

seating arrangements can be

very formal and based on rank.

Once seated, do not start on

the food or drink before your

host gives the signal. Some of

the delicacies on offer may

test your courage; be gracious

and try everything, it is an insult

if the food is untouched; but

leave some food on the plates.

Empty bowls imply that the

host is too poor or mean to

lay on a good spread. Filling up on rice at an informal meal in a market, Dali

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK 569

Invited to Dinner

A formal meal often takes place How to Hold Chopsticks

in a private room and usually 1) Place the first chopstick in the crook

begins with a toast. The host of your thumb and forefinger. Support

serves his guest with the it with the little and ring fingers,

choicest morsels, and then and keep it there with the

everyone is permitted to help knuckle of the thumb.
themselves. Serving chopsticks
or spoons may be provided; if 2) Hold the second
not, simply use your own pair.
chopstick like a
Confucius said that it was
uncivilized to have knives on pencil, between Third finger acting Thumb and first
the table, but if you are really middle and index as a rest for the finger controlling
struggling, most restaurants fingers, anchored lower stick the top stick
will readily provide you with by the pad of your
knives and forks.
thumb. 3) When
The host almost always orders
picking up food, keep the lower stick stationary and the tips even.

As the index finger moves up and down, only the upper stick

should move, using the thumb as an axis.

more dishes than necessary.

While it is polite to try every- suck greasy fingers, or use them before your host, who will rise

thing, don’t feel it is necessary to pick bones out of your and indicate that the dinner has

to finish it all. mouth – spit bones or shell ended and ask if you’ve had

onto the table, into the saucer enough. The answer is “yes.”

Good Neighbors that was under your bowl, The person who invited you

or into a napkin. usually shoulders the full weight

It is courteous Toothpicks are of the bill, so accept graciously.

to keep your ubiquitous, but Offering to pay is fine, even

neighbors’ tea do cover the polite; insisting too hard

cups filled. To action with suggests that you doubt

thank an attentive your free the host’s ability to pay.

neighbor, tap your hand. And The capitalist habit of tipping

first two fingers Crabs – difficult to eat don’t be shy about was wiped out after Mao’s

together on the with chopsticks shouting for Communist Party took over.

table. This tradition attention. Eating Politically acceptable today, it

dates back to the Qing Qianlong alone is very strange to the is still rare, as is “going Dutch.”

emperor, who liked to tour the Chinese way of thinking. Eating Prices are fixed and written

country in disguise. Once, at a in a group – sharing the dishes down in most restaurants, and

teahouse, he took his turn to and the experience – greatly on bills, although there is the

pour the tea. His companions, increases the enjoyment. occasional story of restaurants

who should have been pressing overcharging foreigners.

their foreheads to the floor, The End of the Meal There is no service charge
maintained his disguise by except in the more upmarket

tapping their fingers in a mini- A platter of fresh fruit and and expensive restaurants, which

kowtow. If you don’t want your steaming hot towels signal are also the only places likely to

cup refilled, don’t empty it. the end of the meal is coming. accept international credit cards.

Just as you should await the

Dos and Don’ts start of a meal, do not stand up The Business of Banquets

The Chinese are fairly relaxed An old lady demonstrates the perfect The business banquet is the
about table manners. Slurping noodle technique apex of the Chinese dining
shows appreciation, enables experience, and almost all
better appreciation of flavor, and significant deals are clinched at
sucks in air to prevent burning the banquet table. In addition to
the mouth. Holding your bowl the above, further rules apply:
up to your mouth, to shovel rice arrive 15 minutes early; if you are
in, is another practical solution. applauded as you come into the
You may happily reach across room, applaud back; reply to the
your neighbors, but do not welcome toast with your own
spear food with your chopsticks, short speech and toast; avoid
and do not stand them upright sensitive subjects; show respect
in a bowl of rice either, as it looks to your elders and superiors by
like an offering to the dead. ensuring that the rim of your
If you have finished with the glass is lower than theirs when
chopsticks lay them flat on the clinking glasses and drain your
table or on a rest. You shouldn’t drink in one swift movement.

570 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

What to Drink Tea plantation in the Fujian hills,
South China
Tea, of course is the most popular drink in China. There are
countless arguments for drinking the infusion of the bush
Camellia sinensis, and just as many legends about its origin
(see p299). While tea is the most popular drink, there is a wide
range of others for the visitor. Beer is popular with meals but
wine is also drunk in many upmarket restaurants. Chinese
spirits can range from the extremely pleasant to the almost
dangerous. Likewise approach the “health tonics” like snake
wine with caution – as if the reptilian “sediment” in the bottle
isn’t enough, they can be fiercely alcoholic.

Types of Tea Lid keeps leaves
in the cup, not
Green is the most common tea, baked immediately the mouth
after picking. Flower tea is a mixture of green tea with
flower petals. Black tea colors during the fermentation Gaiwan or
process and the reddish brew that results explains its three-piece
Chinese name – red tea. The most highly prized is tea cup
oolong, a lightly fermented tea. Brick tea is black or
green, pressed into blocks. Eight Treasure tea babaocha Saucer to
has many ingredients including dates, dried longan, prevent fingers
and wolfberry, and Tibetans enjoy yak butter tea. burning

Black: hongcha, Green: lucha, Pu’er: from Yunnan, Flower: huacha
actually called uses leaves
“red tea” in Chinese. dried without is compressed a mix of petals –
fermentation.
into “bricks.” jasmine, rose, and

chrysanthemum.

Coffee The famous“Hairy
As café Peak”green tea
culture
enters China, coffee Tea and Coffee drink
drinking is becoming Those who want a
fashionable among the fashionable coffee drink,
middle classes. A Starbucks but cannot do without their
can be found on practically daily shot of tea, can try this
every main street and in blend of tea and coffee.
every mall in China.

Soft Drinks Bamboo cane Iced green tea Coconut milk drink
juice
Even as a cold drink tea is dominant. Iced
tea is very popular, especially with the young.
Besides the usual array of fruit juices, there is
pomegranate juice in Xinjiang, hawthorn juice
in Beijing, and lychee and sugar cane juice
down south. As well as the global drink brands
there are local challengers like Tianfu Cola, and
the energy drink Jianlibao, made with honey.
As China overcomes its dairy aversion, milk and
yoghurt drinks multiply, as well as soyabean
(doujiang) and Hainan’s famous coconut milk.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK 571

Beer

Europeans first introduced beer to
China in the early 20th century; in

the 21st, China has taken over
as the world’s biggest brewer,
so you are never far from a very
acceptable light lager, and even
a darker brew. Each city usually
has its own local brewery.

Wine

Tsingtao beer Yanjing beer Although grape seeds traveled the Great Wall Dragon Seal
Silk Roads, China has historically
Spirits
preferred grain alcohol. The quality
is rapidly improving, and red wine
is almost exclusively consumed –

it is considered good for the
heart, and a lucky color too.

For millennia the Chinese have been distilling Rice Wine
grains into baijiu or “white spirits” ranging from
strong to deadly. Classified into three types: Despite being called “wine,” some care is required
the qingxiang, or light bouquet, group as this can vary in strength from a mild 15–16 %
includes Fenjiu from Shanxi; Guizhou’s famous alcohol, to the double- or triple-fermented wines
Maotai is a classic jiangxiang, soy bouquet, at up to 38 % ABV. Good rice wine is best drunk
while nongxiang, strong bouquet, is warm and goes well with cold starters.
championed by Sichuan giant Wuliangye.

Maotai “eight times fermented and seven times
distilled” is favored for toasts at banquets. At the
other end of the scale erguotou is cheap and
effective – the people’s drink.

Maotai Erguotou Shaoxing rice wine Strong rice wine

Shaoxing: This is among the
best of the huangjiu (yellow

spirits), noted for its moderate
alcohol content (about 16%)
and mellow fragrance.

Drinking Culture

Teahouses are enjoying a bit of a revival in China,

as appreciation of tea culture recovers after years of

proletarian austerity. While cha (tea) stimulates quiet

contemplation, jiu (alcohol) lubricates noisy celebrations.

Despite reveling in the drunkenness of their poets such

as Li Bai (see p34), the Chinese have not been as badly

affected by alcoholism as many other societies. Public

drunkenness is frowned upon – except maybe in the

ever more popular karaoke bars. Traditionally only soup

was drunk with meals, but this is changing, especially

when eating with foreigners. “Gan bei!” or “dry the cup” is

the clarion call to toasting bouts and drinking games.

Beware the legendary capacity of the northeast Chinese, The Jazz Club, Hong Kong – typical of the

and don’t drink alone or on an empty stomach. thriving big city bar scene

572 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

Han Ceng ¥ Price Guide
Prices are the equivalent of a meal for
Beijing Regional two made up of a range of dishes, served
with tea, and including service charges.
A Thousand and One Nights ¥ Shichahai Dongan, Houhai
Middle Eastern ¥ under ¥200
3–4 Gongti Bei Lu Tel (010) 6404 2259 ¥¥ ¥200 to ¥500
Tel (010) 6532 4050 ¥¥¥ over ¥500
Authentic Arabian cuisine, along A rustic and attractive venue
with hookahs, belly dancing, and
other Middle Eastern-flavored that serves food from the Hakka
entertainment. The kabobs are
delicious, as is the hummus. A few ethnic minority that has settled
Syrian dishes are also available.
in Southern China. The tasty,

hearty specialties, such as Saveurs de Corée ¥

salt-baked prawns on a stick, Korean Map 2 D3

are very popular. Xiang Er Hutong, Jiaodaokou

Tel (010) 5741 5753

Huajia Yiyuan ¥ Delicious MSG-free food in a

Regional charming setting. There is an

Biteapitta ¥ 235 Dongzhimen Nei Dajie à la carte list, as well as two

Middle Eastern Tel (010) 6405 1908 popular set menus that allow

201 Tongli Studio, 43 Sanlitun North, This is a great destination for guests to sample the restaurant’s

Sanlitun Houjie a fun renao (literally, “heat and signature dishes.

Tel (010) 6467 2961 noise”) experience, as well as for

Enjoy hummus, tasty pita the opportunity to sample the The Veggie Table ¥

sandwiches, and other Middle city’s staple dishes. Peking duck Fusion Map 2 D2

Eastern fare in this bright is a good choice, as is the spicy 19 Wudaoying Hutong

restaurant, a perfect pit stop crayfish. Live Chinese opera and Tel (010) 6446 2073 Closed Tue

before heading on to the bars. magic shows are often performed. Vegan and organic food on a

menu that spans the world –

Crescent Moon Xinjiang Let’s Burger ¥ the Indian dal (lentil) dishes

Restaurant ¥ American and Middle Eastern favorites

Middle Eastern Map 2 E4 B1/F, Sanlitun Village North, such as hummus are big hits.

16 Dongsi Liutiao, 100 yards west Sanlitun Lu Lively atmosphere.

of Chaonei Beixiaojie Tel (010) 6415 2772

Tel (010) 6400 5281 Enjoy fabulous, innovative Vineyard Café ¥

Possibly the best Xinjiang burgers and milkshakes in a Café Map 2 D2

restaurant in town, thanks to its playful and stylish setting at Let’s Wudaoying Hutong, off

chunky lamb kabobs, and hearty Burger. There is a impressive array Yonghegong Dajie

chicken and potato stews served of delicious condiments Tel (010) 6402 7961 Closed Mon

with nan bread and home-made including blue cheese sauce. This converted courtyard spot

yoghurt to cool down the heat. is a great place to refuel on

Middle 8th ¥ Western staples. The coffee is

Crystal Jade ¥ Regional good, as is the comforting

Regional S8–40, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Village South, macaroni and cheese.

404, 4/F, Bldg A, The Place, Sanlitun Nan Lu

9 Guanghua Lu Tel (010) 6415 8858 Agua ¥¥

Tel (010) 6587 1228 Fresh and spicy Yunnanese Spanish

Order fabulous dim sum at this cuisine in a fun and lively setting. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu

famous Asian chain that also Famous for its mushroom Tel (010) 5208 6188

offers traditional dishes such as dishes, the mushrooms and ribs Spanish chef Jordi Valles excels

BBQ pork ribs. A value-for-money wrapped in leaves are a must-try. at this fine-dining establishment,

restaurant despite the regal a branch of the Hong Kong

decor and formal service. restaurant. The suckling pig is

sublime, as is the seafood.

Donghuamen Night Market ¥

Street Food Map 2 D5 DK Choice

Donghuamen Da Jie

A fun market popular with Dali Courtyard ¥¥

tourists that sells snacks from all Regional Map 2 D3

over China – from the ordinary 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong,

(dumplings and chicken skewers) Gulou Dong Dajie

to the bizarre (bugs on a stick). Tel (010) 8404 1430

Easily one of the most beautiful

Element Fresh ¥ courtyard restaurants in Beijing,

International Map 2 F4 this lovely, laid-back venue

S8–31, Sanlitun Village South, serves up unusual spicy dishes

19 Sanlitun Nan Lu from the Yunnan province.

Tel (010) 6417 1318 The fixed-price menu does not

Fast service, great coffee, and offer much choice, but there

inexpensive Western classics is a separate vegetarian menu.

make this bright and sleek spot Be sure to try the delectable

busy from breakfast time till the Yunnan goat’s cheese and

evening. The fresh and healthy Warm lighting in the elegant dining area cured ham, if available.
at Agua, in Beijing
salads are a must-order.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 573

Da Dong ¥¥

Regional

Bldg 3, Tuanjiehu Beikou

Tel (010) 6582 2892

Da Dong is rightly famous for its

Peking roast duck, but all the

dishes are good, innovative, and

worth a try. Great quality and

reasonable prices. Book ahead.

Duck de Chine ¥¥

Regional

4 Gongti Bei Lu

Tel (010) 6501 8881

Duck de Chine is a stylish venue

attracting an arty crowd. The

classic duck dish, served with

non-traditional sides with a Minimalist decor at Temple Restaurant Beijing

French twist, is a specialty.

Hatsune ¥¥ The most celebrated dishes Hebei, Tianjin
are the crispy suckling pig and & Shanxi
Japanese Map 2 F4 the slowly baked, salt-encased
leg of lamb.
S8–30, 3/F, Sanlitun Village South,

19 Sanlitun Lu BEIDAIHE: Kiessling’s

Tel (010) 6415 3939 Maison Boulud ¥¥¥ Restaurant ¥

A long-standing favorite for French Map 4 D2 Austrian

its unbeatable fresh sushi, 23 Qianmen Dong Dajie 96 Dongjing Lu

this restaurant offers its own Tel (010) 6559 9200 Tel (0335) 4044 284

unusual take on classic dishes. Renowned chef Daniel Boulud’s A decades-old restaurant

Beijing outpost is located in serving traditional Austrian fare

Huang Ting ¥¥ a swanky setting near Tian’an not far from the beaches of the

Regional Map 2 E5 Men Square. It is seriously seaside resort of Beidaihe.

B2 Peninsula Palace Hotel, stylish and expensive, but

8 Jinyu Hutong the dishes, which include a CHENGDE: Da Qing Hua ¥

Tel (010) 8516 2888, ext 6707 decadent black cod braised Regional

Outstanding dim sum and in truffle, are worth it. 19 Lizheng Lu

classic regional dishes served Tel (0314) 2036 111

by two chefs from Hong Kong. DK Choice Open all hours, this affordable

The interior, with its aged pine local chain specializes in noodles

floor, wooden screens, and Temple Restaurant and dumplings – those stuffed

heavy studded door, re-creates Beijing ¥¥¥ with venison and carrot are a

a traditional hutong (alleyway). International regional specialty.

23 Shatan Houjie

Karaiya Spice House ¥¥ Tel (010) 8400 2232 Closed Sun CHENGDE: Milan Restaurant ¥
Italian
Regional This restaurant is located in a 9 Wulie Lu
Tel (0314) 2665 939
3/F, Bldg 8, The Village at Sanlitun, building within the walls of a A popular and cheerful place
that serves good, authentic
19 Sanlitun Lu 600-year-old temple complex pizzas, and Italian wine.

Tel (010) 6415 3535 most recently used as a factory

Come to Karaiya for spicy Hunan producing TVs. All of the dishes

fare tempered to the Western are good, though the classic

palate. Classic dishes are ribs Chinese cuisine – try the veal

covered with spicy peanuts, chop and sweet-and-sour carrot CHENGDE: Qianlong

and steamed Mandarin fish. purée – is exceptional. The wine Dajiudian ¥

list is considered Beijing’s best. Regional

Made in China ¥¥ Diners can order from both Xinhua Lu

Regional à la carte and set menus. A Tel (0314) 2072 2222 Closed Chinese

Grand Hyatt, 1 Chang’an Dong Jie memorable dining experience. New Year

Tel (010) 8518 1234, ext 3608 This popular hangout has a range

This sophisticated and much- of local favorites, such as venison

loved venue brings a modern The CourtYard ¥¥¥ – either served with ginger or as

sensibility to Chinese dining. The Fusion Map 2 F5 a stuffing in dumplings. The staff

Peking duck is the star attraction, 95 Donghuamen Dajie speak only Chinese, so make use

plus there is a superb wine list. Tel (010) 6526 8883 of the picture menus available.

The CourtYard has kept up

Capital M ¥¥¥ with newer venues thanks to its DATONG: Lin Lao Lao ¥

International Map 3 C2 good fusion food, served in a Regional

3/F, 2 Qianmen Pedestrian St modern setting that makes full 9 Xinkai Nan Lu

Tel (010) 6702 2727 use of its location close to the Tel (0352) 2025 266

A wonderful place for a cocktail, Forbidden City. Ask for a table Head to Lin Lao Lao for the most

a special dinner, or even Sunday that overlooks the moat and famous Shanxi dish of all – guo

brunch while soaking up the order grilled fillet of black cod you rou, or oil-rinsed pork. A

views of Tian’an Men Square. followed by spiced apple. simple place offering good food.

For more information on types of restaurants see page 565

574 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

DATONG: Tonghe Dafandian ¥ DK Choice JINAN: Biscotti
Regional
11 Zhanqian Jie TIANJIN: Goubuli Baozi ¥ Italian Restaurant ¥¥
Tel (0352) 7166 944 Snacks
Adjacent to the Hongqi Hotel, 77 Shandong Jie Italian
this is easily the best choice in Tel (022) 2730 2540
town for inexpensive spicy This is the original venue of the Sofitel Jinan Silver Plaza,
Sichuanese and Hunanese Goubuli Baozi chain, where
cuisine. The Shanxi fried noodles their renowned steamed-pork No. 66 Luoyuan Avenue
are not to be missed. buns were first served over 150
years ago. Customers flock to Tel (0531) 8981 6288
this inexpensive, no-frills joint
to feast on delicious, moreish Come here for Italian classics and
snacks. Try the meatball dump-
lings and wash them down friendly service. The fixed-price
with one of the specialty teas.
lunch menu offers dishes such as

open ravioli with mushrooms.

PINGYAO: Pingyao Qin Ge Da LUOYANG: Lao Luoyang

Quo Zai ¥ Mianguan ¥

Hotpot Snacks

Beiguan Dajie QiYi Lu

This national chain of hotpot Tel (0379) 6322 6636

restaurants originated right here This popular pit stop serves

in Pingyao. Diners can order from hearty helpings of fried noodles,

around 15 hearty varieties that TIANJIN: Yuanman such as zha jiang mian (fried

include all the meat, veggies Vegetarian Restaurant ¥ pork noodles in a soy-bean

and noodles one can eat. Vegetarian paste sauce).

12 Suzhou Dao

PINGYAO: San Ge Da ¥ Tel (022) 2302 2618 LUOYANG: Zhen Bu Tong ¥
Regional
Regional Popular venue that serves both 69 Zhong Zhou Dong Lu
Tel (0379) 6395 2609
Cheng Huang Miao Jie, near the City traditional and contemporary Staff dress in period costume at
this historic restaurant serving
God Temple Chinese food prepared using popular renditions of local dishes,
such as meatballs decorated with
A simple family-run place only vegetarian ingredients. peony flowers.

offering great mao er duo, or cat’s

ears pasta, a famous Shanxi dish.

TAIYUAN: Taiyuan Shandong & Henan

Mianshiguan ¥ JINAN: Chongqing XiaoTian ¥
Hotpot
Regional 162 YingXiong Shan Lu QINGDAO: Din Tai Fung ¥
Tel (0531) 8298 1688
17 Jiefang Lu Savor steaming bowls of broth Taiwanese
and a variety of thinly sliced
Tel (0351) 2022 230 meats and vegetables, as well as 6 Aomen Rd, Shinan District
noodles – tasty, warm, and filling.
This unassuming restaurant serves Tel (0532) 6606 1309
JINAN: Yuchi Palace Restaurant ¥
inexpensive classics such as guo Seafood Part of an international chain,
6 Luyou Lu
you rou, succulent pork that is Tel (0531) 8238 6666 Din Tai Fung offers delicious
The main ingredient for your dish
first boiled and then fried. can be seen swimming in tanks Taiwanese dumplings, including
and is caught only after an order
is placed. Popular with locals. the famous xiaolongbao

TIANJIN: South Beauty ¥ (steamed bun).

Regional

1 Youyi Lu QINGDAO: Harbor Seafood

Tel (022) 2325 9327 Restaurant ¥

A wide range of spicy Sichuanese Seafood

dishes are on offer here. The 220–308 Guo Dao

stone-grilled beef is considered Tel (0532) 8098 8888

a classic. Great atmosphere and Take advantage of this restaurant’s

friendly service. harborside location and enjoy

the freshest seafood dishes.

There is also a popular dim

sum brunch on Sundays.

QINGDAO: Ristorante ¥
San Marco Italiano Doc
Italian
2F Haiqing Hotel, No. 11A Middle
Donghai Rd, Shinan District
Tel (0532) 8589 0526
The Neapolitan chef creates
excellent pizzas, along with
more elaborate dishes. There
is also a good wine list.

QINGDAO: Zur Bierstube ¥

German

1–A2–1, 10 YunLing Rd

Tel (0532) 8889 7600

Guests here feel like they have

been transported to Bavaria

thanks to the delicious, hearty

pork knuckles and several

The elegant and well-located Harbor Seafood Restaurant in Qingdao kinds of German beer.

Key to Price Guide see page 572

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 575

Blue Frog Bar & Grill ¥

American

131 Tianyueqiao Lu

Tel (021) 3368 6117

This well-run bar and restaurant

serves classic American fare. The

burgers are a specialty, and there

is a happy hour every day with

half-price drinks and food.

Bohemia Cafe and Bar ¥
Café
Opulent furnishings at the renowned Shang Palace, Qingdao 42, Lane 248 Taikang Lu
Tel (021) 6415 0065
Located on a trendy,
pedestrianized street, this
popular, cozy café has both
indoor and outdoor seating.
Order coffee and a panini and
watch the world go by.

DK Choice XI’AN: Huimin Jie ¥

QINGDAO: Shang Palace ¥¥ Snacks Brasa Chicken ¥
Regional
1st Floor, Shangri-La Hotel, Huimin Jie International
9 Xiang Gang Zhong Lu
Tel (0532) 8388 3838 Xi’an’s Muslim Street is a lively Rm 770, 3 Xikang Lu
A glamorous, upscale
establishment located in one of destination thanks to its bustling Tel (021) 6466 6384
Qingdao’s finest hotels, Shang
Palace serves beautifully market stalls and street vendors A no-frills, laid-back kind of
prepared classic regional fare
such as char siu pork (BBQ pork). selling roujiamo (Chinese burgers place, where the menu is
However, the chef is not afraid
to innovate and the menu also in pita bread) and a variety of distinctly meat-oriented. One
features braised pork ribs with
pine nuts in red wine. The staff other snacks. of the highlights is the delicious
are dressed in traditional attire.
Peruvian-style rotisserie-cooked

XI’AN: Tang Dynasty Music chicken. Food to take away is

and Dance Show ¥ also available.

Regional

165 Wenyi Lu Crystal Jade ¥

Tel (029) 8822 1873 Dim Sum

This is a great place for visitors to Xintiandi, South Block Plaza, 2/F,

enjoy good food while watching 123 Xingye Lu

the cultural performances held Tel (021) 6385 8752

every night. Hungry diners will find high-

quality Cantonese dim sum at

DK Choice this well-known chain, which

has several branches in the city.

Shaanxi XI’AN: Tong Sheng Xiang The xiaolongbao (steamed bun)

Restaurant ¥ dumplings vie with the prawn

XI’AN: Defachang Restaurant ¥ Regional noodles for the best item on
Snacks
Anban Jie Bell & Drum Tower Square the menu.
Tel (029) 8727 3853
One of Xi’an’s most famous Tel (029) 8721 8711
restaurants. Diners have a choice
of 100 different items that can be Simple and unassuming, but Din Tai Fung ¥
ordered from a picture menu.
a great local favorite for its Taiwanese

outstanding yangrou pao mo. 2/F House 6, South Block, Xintiandi,

This well-seasoned and hearty Lane 123, Xinye Lu

lamb soup, served in a bowl Tel (021) 6385 8378

with crumbled unleavened Din Tai Fung is a Taiwanese

XI’AN: Delhi Darbar Xi’an ¥ bread, has been consistently chain that serves unforgettable

Indian warming hearts in the area for xiaolongbao (steamed bun)

3 Datang Tongyifang, Yanta Xilu over a century now. Definitely dumplings and other tasty

Guests looking to get a break worth trying. steamed snacks. There is a

from local cuisine should come children’s play area, and the staff

to this long-standing Indian are friendly and helpful.

restaurant that serves good

curries and naan bread. Element Fresh ¥
International
Frequented by expats. Shanghai Unit 2, 2nd Floor, Headquarters
Building, 168 Xizang Zhong Lu
XI’AN: First Noodle Under 1931 ¥ Tel (021) 6361 6556
This casual place is one of
the Sun ¥ Regional several branches across
Shanghai. It serves good
Snacks 112 Maoming Nan Lu, near Western options, such as
salads, sandwiches, and
Hanguang Nan Lu Nanchang Lu pasta dishes. It is particularly
popular for weekend brunch,
Tel (029) 8728 6088 Tel (021) 6472 5264 Closed Mon when it gets quite crowded.

This vibrant restaurant The romantic and traditional Art

specializing in noodles is located Deco ambience at 1931 draws

near Xi’an’s famous Great Goose diners in to enjoy standard

Pagoda, and it is popular with renditions of reasonably priced

both tourists and locals. local favorites.

For more information on types of restaurants see page 565

576 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Farine ¥ Matto ¥ Haiku by Hatsune ¥¥

Café Italian Japanese

1 F, Ferguson Lane, 378 Wukang Lu, Superbrand Mall, 186 Lujiazui Xi Lu 28 Taojiang Lu

Xuhui district Tel (021) 5081 0966 Tel (021) 6445 0021

Tel (021) 6433 5798 Closed Mon Top-class bar and pizzeria with A slick and stylish restaurant,

This café/boulangerie is a great a relaxed, rustic ambience. The and sushi bar. The cream cheese

place to try artisanal breads and oven was imported from Italy, and Peking duck fillings may

pastries. Discerning customers which makes the pizza as be unusual, but they are fun

flock here to buy loaves and authentic as it gets in Shanghai. and delicious all the same.

enjoy a croque monsieur (grilled Prior booking recommended.

ham and cheese sandwich). Red Door ¥

Regional Mercato ¥¥

Hang Yuen Hin ¥ 337 Aomen Lu Italian

Dim Sum Tel (021) 6299 8766 6th Floor, Three on the Bund

290–292 Wanping Lu A casual restaurant serving up Tel (021) 6321 9922

Tel (021) 6472 9778 delicious Shanghainese staples, Excellent-value Italian food from

In a verdant park setting, this is such as soup-based noodles chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

one of Shanghai’s best dim sum and lion’s head meatballs. The The Pizza Lounge is a major

restaurants. It serves tasty crab wontons often sell out, as they attraction here, as is the Mercato

dishes and egg tarts, and offers are popular and inexpensive. Bar, which features a completely

a 50 percent lunch discount on original selection of cocktails.

dim sum most weekends. Whisk Choco Cafe ¥ Fabulous service.
Café
Hunan Fengwei Xiaochi ¥ 1250 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Tsukiji Aoasora Sandaime ¥¥
Changshu Lu Japanese
Regional Tel (021) 5404 7770 191 Changle Lu
This stylish venue is a Tel (021) 5466 1817 Closed Sun
1233 Beijing Xi Lu chocoholic’s dream. From an Authentic Japanese cuisine,
espresso with just the perfect including delicious sushi, is
Tel (021) 6279 4513 mix of hot chocolate to the served here, the sister restaurant
double-chocolate cupcakes, of a famous Tokyo establishment.
This is the place for a spicy feast everything here hits the spot. For a selection of the best dishes,
order the sushi sets; otherwise,
of homely Hunan cuisine. There try the outstanding tuna nigiri.

is no menu, so overcome the

language barrier by pointing at

what other diners are enjoying.

Jia Jia Tang Bao ¥ Yuan Yuan ¥

Regional Regional

90 Huanghe Lu, near Fengyang Lu 4/F, Westgate Mall, 1038 Nanjing Xi Lu Xi Na ¥¥

Tel (021) 6327 6878 Tel (021) 6272 6972 Regional

One of the top contenders for The efficient staff at this 373 Huangpi Nan Lu

Shanghai’s best xiaolongbao Shanghainese restaurant serve Tel (021) 6386 2898

dumplings – called tang bao, flavorful dishes in a simple setting. Tasty Hunan food in an elegant

or pork soup dumplings, here. It is hugely popular so book ahead. villa near Xintiandi. Order the

Payment is expected upfront at cooled chicken with spicy chilies,

this popular place. Elefante ¥¥ and sweet and crispy smoked

Spanish fish from the picture-heavy

Kota’s Kitchen ¥ 20 Donghu Lu, menu. A refreshing change

Japanese near Huaihai Zhong Lu from Shanghainese flavors.

1333 Huaihai Zhong Lu Tel (021) 5404 8085 Closed Mon

Tel (021) 6252 1717 The extensive menu at Spanish Ye Shanghai ¥¥

This Beatles-themed restaurant chef El Willy’s sleek and stylish Regional

with a couple of branches in the restaurant could make choosing 338 Huang Pi Nan Rd, Xintiandi

city sees long lines of diners a difficult proposition. Highlights Tel (021) 5878 5660

eager for its yakitori (skewered include a wide-ranging cheese This upscale and appealingly

chicken) and pork ramen. platter. There is also a deli. decorated restaurant serves

distinctive interpretations of

classic Shanghainese dishes, as

well as food from the nearby

provinces of Zhejiang and

Jiangsu. The restaurant also has

a branch in Hong Kong.

8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo

Bombana ¥¥¥

Italian

6th Floor, 169 Yuanmingyuan Lu

Tel (021) 6087 2890

Outstanding Italian restaurant

with a slinky bar near the

Bund. The seasonal à la carte

menu features dishes such as

saffron risotto with pan-seared

Hokkaido scallops. There is also

a tasting menu worth trying

The ultra-fancy bar at 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Shanghai on special occasions.

Key to Price Guide see page 572

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 577

NANJING: Nanjing Da DK Choice

Pai Dang, Deji Plaza ¥ SUZHOU: The Bookworm ¥
International
Regional 77 Gunxiufang, Shiquan Lu
Tel (0512) 5007 4471
18 Zhongshan Lu A branch of the all-in-one
café, bar, and library
Tel (025) 8472 2777 where travelers can get a
break from the spicy local
Traditional Nanjing food in fun fare. The wine list is extensive,
and the excellent brunch
and kitschy surroundings. There menu includes dishes such
as eggs Benedict and freshly
is usually a line of university squeezed juices.

students outside.

NANJING: Skyways Bakery ¥
Bakery
Yadong Plaza A18, 12 Xianyin Bei Lu
Tel (025) 8579 1391
Well known in Nanjing for its
excellent and hearty German-
style bread and pastries.

SUZHOU: Wang Si ¥

NANJING: South Beauty ¥ Regional
Regional
172 Taiping Bei Lu 15 Taijian Nong, Guanqian Jie
Tel (025) 8451 1777
Minimalist in style, this place Tel (0512) 6522 7277
turns up the heat with spicy
Tables with a fabulous view at M on the Sichuan classics, including Excellent tea and local dishes
Bund, Shanghai mapo doufu (spicy tofu with
minced pork). make Wang Si an increasingly

popular spot. The delicious lotus

Jade on 36 ¥¥¥ root is a must-try.

French

Pudong Shangri-La, Level 36, Grand SUZHOU: Wumen Renjia ¥

Tower, 33 Fu Cheng Rd, Pudong Regional

Tel (021) 6321 7733 Closed Sun eve NANJING: Plum Garden ¥¥ 31 Panru Jie
Regional
Highly exclusive, deluxe fine JinLing Hotel, Xin Jie Kou Square Tel (0512) 6728 8041
Tel (025) 8472 2888
dining from chef Franck Elie This restaurant specializes in A pleasant restaurant with a
exceptional Huaiyang-style
Laloum is accompanied by cooking, which includes a well-deserved reputation for
variety of crab and tofu dishes.
sweeping views over the Bund. traditional Suzhou dishes, such

as squirrelfish.

DK Choice YANGZHOU: Republican

M on the Bund ¥¥¥ Spring Restaurant ¥

European SUZHOU: Songhelou Regional

7/F, No. 5 the Bund (corner of Restaurant ¥ 79 GanQuan Lu

Guangdong Lu) Regional Tel (0514) 8734 2551

Tel (021) 6350 9988 198 Shantang Jie A local chain with superb noodle

One of Shanghai’s oldest Tel (0512) 6532 1398 dishes. Worth it despite the gruff

Western restaurants, M on the Suzhou’s most famous restaurant. service and shared tables.

Bund never disappoints with its The sweet-and-sour Mandarin

sophisticated pan-European fish is a must-order. YANGZHOU: Yangzhou Fu

cuisine. The lunch menu, Chun Cha She ¥

featuring dishes such as SUZHOU: Suzhou Zen ¥ Teahouse

pappardelle pasta tossed with Regional 35 Deshengqiao Lu

goose confit, red radicchio, and 108 Xinghan Jie Tel (0514) 7233 326

Parmesan shavings, is a bargain. Tel (0512) 6763 4567 This famous teahouse is located

The Glamour Bar is stunning. Suzhou Zen is a beautiful upscale in a traditional three-story

restaurant that is famous for its pavilion-like building. Try the

dim sum buffet on Sundays. delicious soup dumplings.

Jiangsu & Anhui

NANJING: Bainian Lao

Feng Xiaochi ¥

Street Food

122 Gongyuan Jie

Try the vast array of Huaiyang

street food available at this night

market, outside the Fuzi Miao.

NANJING: Bellini (by Mira) ¥ Trendy and plush seating at Jade on 36 in Shanghai
Italian
Wenfan Lu 9,
Xianling City University
Tel (025) 8579 1577 Closed Mon
An inexpensive place offering
solid, authentic Italian food; the
lasagna is particularly good.

For more information on types of restaurants see page 565

578 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Dining room with an open kitchen at Amanfayun – Steam House in Hangzhou

HANGZHOU: Amanfayun – WENZHOU: Xinwangjiao

Zhejiang & Jiangxi Steam House ¥¥ Dajiudian ¥

Regional Regional

HANGZHOU: Due Forni ¥ 22 Fayun Xiang, Xi Hu Jie Wang Jiang Dong Lu

Italian Tel (0571) 8732 9999 Tel (0577) 8197 008

House 8, No. 147 Nan Shan Lu Located inside the Amanfayun Point to the desired seafood or

Tel (0571) 8702 6333 Hotel, this casual restaurant mime a cooking method – the

Due Forni is a branch of a focuses on dim sum and staff at this popular outdoor

famous Venetian restaurant that authentic local specialties. There venue have developed

delivers an authentic Italian is a terrace for alfresco dining. excellent interpretative skills.

culinary experience from a

great location on West Lake. NANCHANG: Café Roma ¥
Italian
HANGZHOU: Green Tea 129 Fuhe Bei Lu Hunan & Hubei
Tel (0791) 8669 1101
Restaurant ¥ When you need a break from
local cuisine, this inexpensive
Regional no-frills pizzeria does the job. CHANGSHA: Boton ¥

83 Longjing Lu Steakhouse

Tel (0571) 8788 8022 591 Wuyi Dadao

The consistently high quality fare Tel (0731) 8227 7518

and a frequently changing menu NANCHANG: Folk Restaurant ¥ Boton caters to expats and locals
Regional
keep a clientele of both locals 342 XiMaZhuang who like to eat steak alongside
Tel (0791) 8623 6820
and visitors flocking to this place. The crowd of hungry diners here other fine, inexpensive fare in a
reiterates the quality of its Jiangxi
Be sure to try the roast pork. dishes, particularly duck soup. relaxed setting with live music.

HANGZHOU: La Pedrera ¥ CHANGSHA: Huo Gong Dian ¥
Fusion
Spanish 93 Wuyi Dong Lu
Tel (0731) 4116 803
4 Baishaquan, Shuguang Lu The food – dishes from Hunan
and other Chinese provinces –
Tel (0571) 8886 6089 DK Choice comes on carts, and diners can
feast on a wide variety of small
This authentic Spanish restaurant plates and snacks.

and tapas bar specializes in SHAOXING: The Xianheng

paella. The chorizo and chicken Restaurant ¥

version is particularly delicious, Regional

and you can wash it down with a 179 Lu Xun Zhong Lu

Spanish beer or a glass of sangria. Tel (0575) 8511 6666

The most famous restaurant DK Choice

HANGZHOU: Weizhuang in Shaoxing specializes in

Zhiweiguan ¥ delicacies such as crispy- CHANGSHA: West Lake

Regional skinned chicken and smoked Restaurant ¥¥

0–12 Yanggongti, Xihu Qu red dates in rice wine and Regional

Tel (0571) 8797 0568 fermented tofu. The manager Hongshan Lu

With a superb location on the speaks superb English, and Tel (0731) 8425 8188

lake, this restaurant serves classic there is a helpful picture menu One of the largest restaurants

Hangzhou dishes, such as West to order from as well. in the world, West Lake employs

Lake fish in vinegar sauce. 300 chefs to cater for 5,000

seats. The menu includes exotic

HANGZHOU: 28 Hubin Road ¥¥ SHAOXING: Xiang Hui Lou ¥ fare, such as snakes, as well as
Regional Regional
Hyatt Regency Hangzhou, Hubin Lu 244 Luxun Xi Lu good renditions of classic
Tel (0571) 8779 1234 Tel (0575) 8522 6577
Difficult to say which is the Use the picture menu to order dishes such as crispy fried pork
bigger attraction here: the local specialties such as beef
dongpo (pork belly) or the and chili with Shaoxing vinegar. and sweet-and-sour Mandarin
state-of-the-art wine cellar. Nice wood decor.
fish. With live stage shows

daily, this is an experience

not to be missed.

Key to Price Guide see page 572

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 579

CHANGSHA: Xuji Seafood DK Choice DK Choice

Restaurant ¥¥ XIAMEN: Bellagio ¥ GUANGZHOU: Bai

Seafood Regional Yun Xuan ¥

88 Shuguang Bei Lu 6 Jianye Lu Regional

Tel (0731) 8415 1560 Tel (0592) 6577 333 Baiyun Hotel, 67 Huanshi Dong Lu

Changsha’s poshest dining The Xiamen branch of an Tel (020) 8333 3998, ext 3271

experience, with fresh seafood affordable and stylish chain of A local institution famous for

that can be picked from the Taiwanese restaurants. Order the its delicious dim sum, this

huge tanks lining the restaurant. sweet-and-sour fish from the hotel-restaurant fills up in the

gigantic picture menu, and mornings, particularly Sundays,

WUHAN: Charm ¥ wash it down with a freshly and stays that way for much of

Regional made fruit lassi (yoghurt drink) the day. The shu mai dumplings

616 Zhongshan Dajie, Wuhantiandi and peanut-butter ice cream. and steamed ribs in black-bean

No. 2 – 2 building sauce are sublime.

Tel (027) 8272 7606

Charm specializes in tasty XIAMEN: Big Mouth

Taiwanese snacks, such as bubble Japanese Restaurant ¥ GUANGZHOU: Dongjiang

tea and scallion pancakes. For the Japanese Seafood Restaurant ¥

adventurous, there is stinky tofu. 123 Lian Qian Dong Lu Seafood

Tel (0592) 5922 166 2 Qiaoguang Lu

WUHAN: Mr. Xie Restaurant ¥ A buffet-only restaurant with an Tel (020) 8318 4901
Fusion
910 Jiefang Da Dao array of fresh sashimi and udon- Spread over five floors and with
Tel (027) 8581 3580
A friendly and inexpensive place noodle dishes. Book ahead. a seating capacity of 3,000, this
to try Taiwanese dishes, as well as
Hubei classics such as nongjia lively restaurant has a wide
xiaochaorou, a delicious spicy
pork dish. Very popular locally. XIAMEN: Temple Café ¥ variety of seafood on offer.

Café Do not miss the dim sum.

61 Zengcuo Da Dao

Tel (0592) 2096 780 GUANGZHOU: Tang

Housed in an old temple, this Chinese Cuisine ¥

place has an adequate menu of International

WUHAN: Wuhan dishes such as pizzas and burgers. 1 Jianshe Liu Ma Lu
Changchunguan Sucaiguan ¥
Vegetarian Tel (020) 8384 3320
145 Wuluo Lu
Tel (027) 8885 4229 This elegant restaurant provides
Adjacent to a Daoist temple, this
charming Buddhist restaurant Guangdong unusual renditions of classic
specializes in mock-meat dishes & Hainan
in which pressed tofu is used as local dishes. The goose, for
a meat substitute.
example, is served with dainty

slices of foie gras. There is also a

GUANGZHOU: 1920 large dim sum daytime menu.

Restaurant and Bar ¥

German GUANGZHOU: The Peninsula ¥
Regional
183 Yuanjiangzhong Lu 28 Da Tong Lu Er Sha Island
Tel (020) 8735 3283
WUHAN: Wuxing Dumpling Tel (020) 8333 6156 The Peninsula is a favorite haunt
of those who want to see and
Restaurant ¥ Come to 1920 if you fancy a be seen. The steamed frogs’
legs served on a lotus leaf are
Dim Sum break from Cantonese food. much talked about.

201 Luoyu Lu This restaurant provides a vast

Tel (027) 8764 4345 selection of German beer,

A well-priced dumpling joint massive plates of cold cuts,

with over 100 different varieties schnitzels, and sausage platters.

on the menu. Do not miss the

egg and scallion versions.

Fujian

FUZHOU: Ez Café ¥

International

Shangri-La Hotel, 9 Xin Quan Nan Lu

Tel (0591) 8798 8566

Visit at lunch for the well-stocked

international buffet, and at

dinner for the excellent sampling

of both Asian and continental

dishes. Good desserts, too.

FUZHOU: Xinjinyue Restaurant ¥ Informal dining space at Ez Café in Fuzhou
Regional
438 Guangda Lu
Tel (0591) 2830 5777
The city’s fanciest restaurant
offers delicious seafood, such as
sashimi and Fujianese delicacies.

For more information on types of restaurants see page 565

580 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

SHENZHEN: Muslim HONG KONG: Serenade

Noodle House ¥ Chinese Restaurant ¥

Regional Dim Sum Map 1 C4

8 Taizi Rd 1/F Hong Kong Cultural Centre,

An unassuming shack that Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui

nevertheless attracts large Tel (852) 2722 0932

numbers of local diners looking Apart from dim sum, this

for meaty and spicy fare with moderately priced restaurant also

that extra something. Noodles serves fabulous shrimp wontons

are made fresh in front of the and Singapore noodles. Enjoy

guests. No restroom facilities. your meal while taking in great

views of the Victoria Harbour.

DK Choice HONG KONG: Smrat Pure Veg ¥

SHENZHEN: Shang Palace ¥ Indian Map 1 B1
Regional
Shangri-La Hotel, East Side, 5/F, Block B, Chungking Mansion,
Railway Station, 1002 Jianshe Rd
Tel (0755) 8233 0888 36–44 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui
With its magnificent decor
and outstanding dim sum, Tel (852) 2369 5762
this place is truly delightful.
Enjoy creative combinations of The inexpensive and excellent
tantalizing flavors such as crispy
pork flamed with Chinese rose vegetarian food served at
wine, and sliced roasted duck
with mango. Shang Palace is Smrat Pure Veg makes a trek
definitely worth a visit.
The beautifully decorated Shang Palace to this spot worthwhile. The
in Shenzhen
menu is varied and extensive.

SANYA: Casa Mia ¥ HONG KONG: Above

Italian and Beyond ¥¥

88 Sanya Bay Rd Regional Map 1 C3

Tel (0898) 8888 9828 28F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum

With a lovely location on the Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui East

waterfront, this is the place to Tel (852) 3400 1318

order platefuls of pasta and red Fine harbor views and spot-on

wine for a taste of la dolce vita. renditions of Cantonese classics,

Hong Kong & Macau such as roast pork belly and char

SANYA: Hai Ya Restaurant ¥ siu (barbecued pork), have made
Regional
138 Xin Feng Lu HONG KONG: Guru ¥ this modern venue very popular.
Tel (0898) 8827 6962
A world away from Sanya’s Indian Map 2 B3
fancier restaurants, this busy,
noisy joint caters to those in G/F, 13 Elgin St, Central HONG KONG:
search of Hainan chicken, the
island’s most famous dish. Tel (852) 2547 9998 Indochine 1929 ¥¥

A small, charming restaurant Fusion Map 2 B3

decorated with vibrant Indian 2/F, California Tower,

artworks, Guru serves food from 30–32 D’Aguilar St, Lan Kwai Fong

all regions of the subcontinent. Tel (852) 2869 7399

A long-established favorite

SANYA: Fresh at HONG KONG: Luk Yu Tea House ¥ with the Hong Kong elite, who

Mandarin Oriental ¥¥¥ Dim Suml Map 2 B3 flock here drawn by both the

Seafood 24–26 Stanley St, Central restaurant’s French-Vietnamese

12 Yuhai Lu Tel (852) 2523 5464 cuisine and its elegant decor.

Tel (0898) 8820 9999 This colonial-style teahouse,

Tucked away in the luxurious with its beautiful paneling and

Mandarin Oriental Hotel, this is murals, has been a destination

the place for an expensive treat. for travelers for 80 years. Expect

Try the oysters and shimmering old-fashioned service as well.

platters of fresh seafood.

SHENZHEN: Benjia DK Choice

Korean Restaurant ¥ HONG KONG:

Korean Maxim’s Palace ¥

8 Baishi Lu Dim Sum

Tel (0755) 8654 1158 Low Block, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh

Spread over two floors, Benjia Place, Central

is always packed with Korean Tel (852) 2526 9931

expats enjoying mouthwatering Head to Maxim’s Palace for a

BBQ pork and beef with pickled typical Hong Kong dim sum

kimchi on the side. experience, and join the crowds

of noisy and cheerful locals

SHENZHEN: Laurel Restaurant ¥ selecting their favorite fillings
Regional
17 Nong Yuan Lu from service carts. From the
Tel (0755) 8317 1818
Enjoy the outdoor setting as BBQ pork buns to the stir-fried
the friendly staff bring out a
wide variety of Cantonese dishes. green vegetables in oyster
The Peking duck here is divine.
sauce, the food is flawless,

classic, and inexpensive.

Great harbor views, too. Dine with a stunning view at Above and
Beyond in Hong Kong

Key to Price Guide see page 572

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 581

HONG KONG: Island Tang ¥¥
Regional
Shop 222, The Galleria,
9 Queen’s Rd, Central
Tel (852) 2526 8798
The beautiful 1930s Art Deco
ambience provides the perfect
backdrop for quality Cantonese
cuisine and a variety of dim sum.

HONG KONG: Super Star

Seafood Restaurant ¥¥

Dim Sum Map 1 C3

83–97 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui

Tel (852) 2366 0878

Head to this high-end place –

one of several branches in

Hong Kong – for their menu

of appetizing crab dishes and The glamorous setting at The Eight in Macau

dim sum.

HONG KONG: The Square ¥¥ HONG KONG: On Lot 10 ¥¥¥ classic stew made with pork
Regional French knuckle, sausage, and red beans.
1/F Exchange Square II, Central 34 Gough St, Central Reservations essential.
Tel (852) 2525 1163 Tel (852) 2155 9210 Closed Sun
The award-winning authentic A local favorite, with a lovely MACAU: Lord Stow’s Bakery ¥
Cantonese cuisine has made this terrace and a classic menu Snacks
restaurant a popular destination served in an unpretentious 1 Rua Do Tassara,
for foodies. The booth seating is fashion. Guests can bring their Coloane Town Square
comfortable, and the platters of own wine. Tel (853) 2888 2535
roast meats are a real treat. The classic egg tart you can
HONG KONG: Pierre ¥¥¥ see being sold all over Hong
Kong was invented at this very
French establishment. True fans still
take the ferry to Macau to buy
HONG KONG: Tsui Hang 25/F, The Mandarin Oriental, boxes of the original.

Village Restaurant ¥¥ 5 Connaught Rd, Central

Regional Tel (852) 2825 4001 Closed Sun,

1/F, 16–18 Queen’s Rd, Central public hols

Tel (852) 2524 2012 Order innovative French- MACAU: The Eight ¥¥¥

Famous for char siu (barbecued) Mediterranean fare prepared Dim Sum

pork, this no-nonsense restaurant by a celebrity chef in the Grand Lisboa Hotel, 2nd Floor,

may not be a place to linger, but Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Pierre Avenida de Lisboa

it is the perfect spot to grab a overlooks Victoria Harbour. Tel (853) 8803 7788

bite on the run. Come to this Michelin-starred

HONG KONG: SPOON restaurant for a lavish dining

DK Choice by Alain Ducasse ¥¥¥ experience. The Eight serves

French Cantonese and Huaiyang cuisine,

HONG KONG: InterContinental, 18 Salisbury Rd, plus delicious dim sum at lunch.

Chez Patrick ¥¥¥ Tsim Sha Tsui

French Map 2 B3 Tel (852) 2313 2256 Closed Mon

26 Peel St, Soho The staff here do Alain Ducasse Sichuan &
Chongqing
Tel (852) 2541 1401 Closed Sun, credit by producing superb
CHENGDU: Annvita
public hols eclectic food that lives up to his Rose House
Teahouse
French fine dining in an reputation. The breathtaking 61 Shenxianshu Nan Lu
Tel (028) 8519 1777
ambience reminiscent of a view of the harbor is a bonus. A traditional-style English
teahouse serving a wide
Parisian apartment. The chef variety of teas, both English ¥
blends and Chinese, along
changes his menu every month, HONG KONG: with exquisite cakes.

but the restaurant’s signature The Chairman ¥¥¥

dishes, such as king prawns and Regional

baby artichoke tartare, and 18 Kau U Fong, Central

goat’s cheese and beetroot ice Tel (852) 2555 2202

cream, are always available. Book at least a month in advance

to enjoy the experimental

contemporary Cantonese food

HONG KONG: Gold ¥¥¥ prepared here – baked Coca-Cola

Italian Map 2 B3 braised-pork buns, for instance. CHENGDU: Cat in Hat ¥

Level 2, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St, Café

Lan Kwai Fong, Central MACAU: A Lorcha ¥ No. 103 Diaosu Dasha, 1 Jingxing Lu

Tel (852) 2869 9986 Portuguese Tel (028) 8556 9299

This restaurant lives up to its name 289 Rua do Almirante Sergio Cat in Hat is a very popular

with its flamboyant ambience Tel (853) 2831 3193 café and lounge famous for its

and a beautifully designed A lively and long-established desserts and warm, old-style

terrace. The modern European local institution that serves atmosphere. Choose from a

menu has been developed by exceedingly well-prepared piri range of snacks, including

celebrity chef Harlan Goldstein. piri chicken and feijoada, the dumplings and noodles.

For more information on types of restaurants see page 565

582 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

The no-frills, bright interior at The Bookworm in Chengdu

CHENGDU: Impression CHONGQING: Dalong Hotpot ¥ CHONGQING: Stone Fusion ¥¥
Hotpot Fusion
of Chengdu ¥ Xiaolongkan, Diantai Xiang Jie 6/F, Times Square, 228 Minzu Lu
Tel (139) 8372 6399 Tel (023) 6383 3337
Regional The most famous hotpot A high-end fine-dining place
restaurant in Chongqing sees that serves Western favorites
Zhaixiangzi Alley 16, long lines for tables almost every such as lasagna and steaks,
day. Beware of the spicy broth – as well as local dishes, in a
Qingyang District it is exceedingly hot. classy environment.

Tel (028) 8624 5678

This restaurant is famous for

its spicy Sichuan cusine. It

also offers guests the cultural

experience of a Sichuan opera

show every day at lunchtime. CHONGQING: Donghuai

Xichuan ¥

CHENGDU: The Bookworm ¥ Regional Yunnan
International
2–7 Yulie Dong Lu 5/F, Chongqing Times Square,
Tel (028) 8552 0177
An all-in-one atmospheric 100 Zourong Lu DALI: Bakery 88 ¥
bookshop, library, bar, restaurant,
and event space. This, the sister Tel (023) 6300 0880 Café
branch to the famous Beijing
edition, is very popular for its Popular for its fusion of No. 52 Yangren Jie
warm atmosphere and good
wine and food. Sichuanese and Chongqing Tel (0872) 2679 129

cuisines, and its fine desserts, The most famous deli and

Donghuai Xichuan has attentive café in Dali, Bakery 88 serves

service and a smart ambience. delicious cheesecakes, healthy

breakfasts, and apple pie, as well

CHONGQING: Grandma’s as good coffee. Friendly service.

Kitchen ¥

CHENGDU: Gingko NanTing ¥¥ American DALI: Cang Er Chun ¥
Fusion
1/F–6/F, Western Tower, 16 Renmin 6/F, Darong Cheng, 8 Jianxin Bei Lu Regional
Nan Lu
Tel (028) 8611 6888 Tel (023) 6769 9775 84 Renmin Lu
A fine restaurant with accom-
plished cuisine from all over the A branch of a well-known Beijing Tel (0872) 6900 907
world. It is a particularly good
choice for a celebratory dinner, chain that offers excellent An old and famous Yunnan
since the desserts, such as the
green-tea ice cream, are divine. service. Grandma’s Kitchen restaurant located inside a

draws large crowds thanks to stunning wooden building. Try

the big portions of burgers the Crossing the Bridge noodles.

and sandwiches served in a Prior booking recommended.

warm and homely atmosphere.

DALI: The Good Panda

CHONGQING: Qiqi Hotpot ¥ Restaurant ¥
Hotpot
DK Choice 2/F–3/F, Bldg B, 151 Zourong Lu Regional
Tel (023) 6379 9369
CHENGDU: Yu’s Kitchen ¥¥ A very old and popular hotpot 81 Renmin Lu
Regional chain in Chongqing, with a
Zhaixiangzi Alley 43 typical menu on offer and Tel (0872) 3156 492
Tel (028) 8669 1985 bright and clean surroundings.
This elegant restaurant offers Try food typical of the Bai
a contemporary take on
traditional Sichuan cuisine, minority, such as goat’s cheese
with a range of elaborate and
delicately prepared dishes. The and ham with piquant pickles,
atmosphere is slightly formal,
and the menu changes weekly. in a stylish environment with
English is spoken, so ask for the
recommended dish of the day. traditional and rustic decor.
Book in advance
CHONGQING: Yuxin Sichuan

Cuisine ¥ DALI: Zai Hui Shou ¥

Regional Regional

No. 16 Building, 1st Avenue, 198 Renmin Lu

Nanbin Lu Tel (0872) 6895 609

Tel (023) 6282 2088 A small hole-in-the-wall joint

This local favorite on the south with lots of reasonably priced

bank of the Yangtze River offers and delicious options. Famous

excellent views and spicy food. for its Yunnan rice noodles.

Key to Price Guide see page 572

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 583

KUNMING: Blue Bird ¥ Cheap, cheerful, and tourist-
friendly, this restaurant offering
Steakhouse Guizhou & Guangxi Guangxi cuisine is a must after
rafting in the Yulong River. Try the
Cuihu Nan Lu famous beer fish.

Tel (0871) 6531 5507 GUILIN: Chong Shan ¥

A well-established restaurant Regional

located by the Cui Hu Lake, Blue Jiefang Dong Lu

Bird is famous for its steaks and Tel (0773) 2981 335

large slices of cheesecake. The flagship of a famous rice- Liaoning, Jilin &
Heilongjiang
noodle chain, Chong Shan is very

KUNMING: De Yi Ju ¥ popular with locals for breakfast.

Regional Try the scallion pancakes.

No. JB3-6-1, Jinmabiji Square, Jinbi Lu CHANGCHUN: Bao Jia ¥

Tel (0871) 6363 3555 GUILIN: Chun Ji ¥ Regional

Housed in a former general’s Regional Tongguang Lu

mansion, this three-story 2 Zhongshan Zhong Lu Tel (0431) 8676 1285

restaurant is the most famous Tel (0733) 2806 188 Bao Jia is famous for its

place for Yunnan dishes such as Renowned for its signature authentically prepared Dongbei

Crossing the Bridge noodles. geese dishes, this perennially cuisine. The hearty portions

popular restaurant also has are twice the size you’ll find

KUNMING: Wei Cai ¥ excellent dim sum. Prior booking elsewhere, and the dumplings

Regional is recommended at weekends. are delicious. Efficient staff.

1 Cuihu Xi Lu

Tel (0871) 6531 8999 GUIYANG: Lao Kai Li ¥ CHANGCHUN: Z-Space

Enjoy contemporary Yunnan Regional Steak House ¥¥

cuisine with a lakeside view. The 55 Shengfu Lu Steakhouse

chef serves seasonal delicacies. Tel (0851) 5843 665 2632 Gongnongda Jie

Local foodies come here for the Tel (0431) 8564 5757

LIJIANG: A Ma Yi Naxi Snacks ¥ must-order dish: fish in sour A refined, high-end restaurant,
Regional
Near Xiaoshiqiao Qiao, Wuyi Jie soup. It is always crowded, with Z-Space Steak House is the
Tel (0888) 5309 588
Try the cuisine of the Yunnan people lining up to get a table. place where locals go for foie
minority in an alley in the old
town. This place also serves gras and caviar, followed by a
Lijiang baba, a pancake made of
wheat flour, ham, and scallion. DK Choice large, succulent steak.

YANGSHUO: Red DALIAN: 68–86 Old

Star Express ¥ Dalian Restaurant ¥

Café Seafood

56 Guihua Lu 3 Xinsheng Jie

LIJIANG: Chattering Room ¥ Tel (0733) 8821 304 Tel (0411) 8265 7491
Regional
Dashiqiao Bunongling, Wuyi St, A long-term favorite with A small dining room means that
Gucheng District
Tel (0888) 5180 439 international travelers, this this unassuming place is packed
Unfussy cuisine from the owner/
chef, who is famous locally for lively pizza place is decorated every day, full of people eager to
her chatter and heartwarming
personality. Vegetarian-friendly. with old-style Communist try its famous seafood dishes.

posters. It is a good place to

meet fellow travelers, and DALIAN: Brooklyn

when darkness falls, it is also Restaurant & Bar ¥

a great place to enjoy a glass American

of local beer. 184 Bulao Jie, Wanda Huafu Erqi

DK Choice Tel (0411) 8686 7426

Unadulterated American-

LIJIANG: Flower Private YANGSHUO: Farmer’s style menu, featuring big juicy
Restaurant
Home Cuisine ¥ Regional ¥ burgers and pizzas that can be
Jiu Xian, near Yulong River
Regional Tel (0733) 8772 715 washed down with a round of

At the end of Zhenxingxiang Alley, mojitos. For dessert, tuck into

Wuyi Jie the cheesecake.

Tel (1870) 8889 700

A tiny, cozy restaurant worth

seeking out in a small alley

where it could be easily

overlooked. On the menu is

classic Lijiang cuisine, and there

are also several vegetarian

options. The manager speaks

excellent English.

LIJIANG: Upstairs N’s Kitchen ¥ The casual Upstairs N’s Kitchen in Lijiang
Café
2/F, Jishan Alley 17, Xinyi Jie
Tel (0888) 5120 060
In the evening, this friendly
café famous for its milkshakes
and pizzas starts to have more
of a pub vibe.

For more information on types of restaurants see page 565

584 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

DALIAN: Wan Bao SHENYANG: Guan Dong YINCHUAN: Guo Qiang

Haixianfang ¥¥ Da Yuan ¥ Shou Zhua ¥

Seafood Regional Regional

182 Jiefang Lu 112 Taibaishan Lu 408 Jiefang Xi Jie

Tel (0411) 3991 2888 Tel (024) 8671 8222 Tel (0951) 5036 220

Dalian’s best seafood restaurant This restaurant stands out thanks Give the cutlery a miss and dig

offers elegant decor and to its innovative design, though into the great mutton dishes

professional staff – not to the food is more traditional – with your fingers at this typical

mention prices to match. The hearty, filling, and simple. Xinjiang restaurant, also known

spicy crayfish are excellent. for its medicinal tea.

SHENYANG: Xiang Jian

HARBIN: Europe Restaurant ¥ Hao Wei ¥ DK Choice
European
22 Shidao Xi Jie Regional YINCHUAN: Ying Bin Lou ¥
Tel (0451) 8469 8887 Regional
This is the place to visit for 30 Guilin Jie 11 Jiefang Xi Jie
traditional European fare, such Tel (0951) 6025 950
as hearty steaks and French Tel (024) 8285 1378 A very old and famous Xinjiang
casseroles. The meals here restaurant popular for its home-
are accompanied by live Homely, well-priced Dongbei made pomegranate ice cream
piano music. in summer, and lamb hotpot
cuisine in a cheerful room usually in winter. English is not
spoken here, but there is a
packed with diners. Book ahead. comprehensive picture menu,
and the staff are keen to help.
DK Choice Inner Mongolia
& Ningxia

HARBIN: Katusha HOHHOT: Gerile Ama Milk

Restaurant ¥ Tea House ¥

Russian Teahouse

261 Zhongyang Jie 2/F, Xinhua Square, 93 Xilin Bei Lu

Tel (138) 3614 8098 Tel (0471) 6924 755

Head to Harbin’s most famous Enjoy authentic Mongolian tea Gansu & Qinghai

Russian restaurant if you are and dairy desserts in a friendly DUNHUANG: Daji Donkey ¥
Regional
in the mood for typical Russian atmosphere. This is a great place In the alley east to Jinshan Hotel,
near Shazhou Hotel
decor and authentic fare, such to get warm on a cold day. The name gives the specialty
away – donkey-meat dishes
as chicken Kiev and hearty dominate at this homely place.

beef stroganoff. Even the HOHHOT: Meng Gu Da Ying ¥ DK Choice
Regional
bread and butter is Russian. Inside the Inner Mongolia Race DUNHUANG: Dun Lai Shun ¥
Course, 27 Hulun Bei Lu Regional
Unsurprisingly, it also has a Tel (0471) 6516 868 11 Mingshan Lu
Set in yurts, this authentic Tel (0937) 8832 203
peerless vodka list. There is place offers great Mongolian The city’s best restaurant, Dun
cuisine, such as pulled lamb Lai Shun is cheap, yet stylish
occasional live music. and Mongolian milk tea. and welcoming. Dishes from all
over China are served, as well as
HARBIN: Qiz.Douw ¥ Xinjiang staples, such as roast
mutton and spicy cucumber.
Regional

182 Nan Shixidao Jie

Tel (0451) 8264 5888 HOHHOT: Zuo Cheng You Yu ¥¥
Regional
This reasonably priced and 2/F, Chang’an Jinzuo, Xinhua Dong Jie
Tel (0471) 4682 300 Closed Chinese
popular Dongbei restaurant New Year
Serving contemporary Cantonese
is especially famous for big cuisine, this is Hohhot’s best fine-
dining restaurant. Efficient service.
portions of dishes such as

lamb ribs crusted with cumin

seeds and crushed chilies, and

carrot and lamb dumplings.

The popular Wan Bao Haixianfang seafood restaurant in Dalian, Liaoning
Key to Price Guide see page 572

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 585

Staff in traditional attire at Wordo Kitchen in Shigatse, Tibet

LANZHOU: Wu Miu Le ¥

Regional Xinjiang Tibet

2168 Beibinhe Xi Lu LHASA: Guangming
Gangqiongtian Tea House ¥
Closed Eves KASHGAR: Orda ¥ Teahouse
Danjielin Lu
Be prepared to wait at this Middle Eastern Tel (0891) 6885 357
A local favorite known for serving
popular draw to try the city’s 169 Renmin Dong Lu Tibetan sweet tea and noodles.

most famous and tastiest This authentic Xinjiang

noodles and beef dishes. restaurant serves spicy kabobs

accompanied by cooling bowls

LANZHOU: Zhong Hua ¥ of yoghurt. The Uighur waiting

Middle Eastern staff are quite friendly.

765 Nanchang Lu DK Choice

Tel (0931) 8880 555 KASHGAR: Altun Orda ¥¥

The flagship establishment of a Middle Eastern LHASA: Lhasa Namasede

well-known local chain of Muslim Renmin Xi Lu Restaurant ¥

restaurants. Be sure to try the Tel (0998) 2583 555 Fusion

succulent roast mutton, which Altun Orda is a very high-end 2/F, 30 Yutuo Lu

is best eaten using your fingers and luxuriously furbished Tel (0891) 6324 669

instead of cutlery. Xinjiang restaurant. The excellent This friendly place offers Indian,

pilaf is highly recommended. The continental, Chinese, Tibetan,

XINING: Qinghai Tu Huoguo ¥ staff speak some basic English. and Nepali dishes, as well as
Hotpot
Intersection of Xiaoxin Jie and burgers, ice creams, and cakes.
Yinma Jie
Qinghai-style hotpot is the TURPAN: Best Food Burger ¥ A great place to meet travelers.
perfect dish for the long winter, American
and the one served here is truly Dashizi, Laocheng Xi Lu LHASA: Renmin Communist
memorable. Beware of the spicy Fans of American-style fast food
variety, though, as it is quite hot. can head to Best Food Burger, Century Cunjun Mansion ¥
safe in the knowledge that the
menu here features nothing Regional
other than burgers and fries.
1 Chaoyang Lu

Tel (0891) 6788 888

XINING: Shalihai Catering Famous for its mushroom hotpot

Food City ¥ ÜRÜMQI: Huo Yan Shan ¥ with Tibetan chicken soup. The

Regional Hotpot yak beef is also very popular.

4 Bei Jie 2/F, 1 Mingyuan Lu

Tel (0971) 8232 039 Tel (0991) 4562 888 SHIGATSE: Wordo Kitchen ¥
Regional
This popular local chain An all-you-can-eat self-service 8 Zhade Dong Lu
Tel (0892) 8823 994
specializes in mutton dishes. hotpot with live local music Gorgeous decor and smiling
waiting staff await here. The food
Try the stewed mutton in rice performances during lunch is traditional yet wholesome; try
the roasted leg of lamb.
wine and deep fried diced and dinner. Diners may have

potatoes. No English is spoken to share a table.

here, so guests might have to

do some pointing. ÜRÜMQI: Miraj ¥

Turkish

XINING: Yi Xin Shouzhua ¥ 31, 2nd Alley, Shengli Lu SHIGATSE: Yak Head

Regional Tel (0991) 2885 522 Tibet Restaurant ¥

Baiyu Alley 5, Huayuan Bei Jie Do not miss this gorgeously Regional

Tel (0971) 8179 336 and exotically decorated Turkish 16 Zanglong Square, Shandong Lu

One of the best local Muslim restaurant. Miraj is one of Tel (0892) 8841 118

restaurants, with a reputation Ürümqi’s premier fine-dining This is the perfect place to enjoy

for cleanliness and good-quality venues, serving spicy and tasty mellow and savoury Tibetan milk

cuisine. Try the la mian noodles. lamb kabobs. tea and yak beef.

For more information on types of restaurants see page 565

586 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

SHOPS & MARKETS

China’s rich artistic heritage is reflected in items are not hard to find. Perhaps some
its stunning range of characteristic of the most unique souvenirs are those
works of art – from stylized landscape produced by China’s ethnic minorities,
paintings and calligraphy to delicate ceramic particularly their accomplished embroidery.
bowls and exquisitely carved bamboo. With The major cities have seen the emergence of
the burgeoning of tourism and the official malls and department stores, which provide
encouragement of enterprise, Chinese cities certificates of authenticity for items such as
are alive with shops and markets selling an jewelry and semi-precious stones (although
often bewildering array of trinkets and still no guarantee). Many large hotels also
souvenirs. Even though the market is flooded have souvenir shops, although these tend
with cheap imitations, many objects are still to stock over-priced, upmarket items, such
made by age-old techniques, and authentic as silk and jade.

Opening Hours An array of calligraphy brushes for sale in a shops, hotels, restaurants,
Beijing market and bars. Likewise, ATMs
Shops in China are usually open are widespread in every city
from 8:30am until fairly late in How to Pay including at most major
the evening – around 8pm – banks, such as Bank of
while winter timings are The Chinese currency is the China, ICBC, HSBC, Citibank,
generally 9am to 7pm. High yuan renminbi or “people’s and Bank of Communications.
street stores and malls tend to money” (shortened to RMB). ATMs should display in both
open from 10am to 10pm One yuan is divided into 10 Chinese and English, or give
regardless of the season. They jiao or mao, each of which is you the option to display in
can be very busy in the evening divided even farther into 10 English only. The commission
once offices have closed. The fen. Credit and debit cards and exchange rates charged
opening and closing times of are widely accepted in malls, for ATM withdrawals depend
shops varies from place to on your bank, so it is worth
place; in some areas they open checking before your visit.
as early as 8am, and stay open
until well after 8pm. Local food Most major banks have
shops and markets selling fresh exchange desks for foreign
produce remain open for currency. These are also found
business from early in the at airports, in larger hotels,
morning until late at night. and in certain stores. Be sure
Some shops remain closed on to keep your exchange receipts,
public holidays such as the since you will need them
three-day Chinese New Year to convert your spare renminbi
(Spring Festival), National Day into another currency before
(October 1), and New Year’s Day leaving the country
(January 1), although most (see pp608–9).
malls remain open.
Bargaining
Bustling Nanjing Road with its brightly colored billboards, Shanghai
Bargaining is a common
practice in China, especially
in street markets, night bazaars,
and souvenir stands. It is even
worth trying in the smarter,
more expensive hotels, modern
shops, department stores,
and government emporia.
Stallholders are notorious
for charging visitors thrice
the “real” price, and sometimes
their starting price may be
up to ten times the cost.
Make a comparison of prices
and be conscious of what
others are paying, particularly
local Chinese.

SHOPS & MARKETS 587

cooking pots. While some
markets still follow the lunar
calendar, which is confusing for
most visitors, many have shifted
to a more regular schedule.
Such markets are busiest
between mid-morning and
mid-afternoon. The variety of
food, souvenirs, and domestic
items on sale is astounding, but
be prepared to bargain hard.

Antiques

Unless you’re an expert, buying

antiques in China is a rather

An upmarket department store in Zhaoqing, Guangdong risky proposition. Many Chinese

Department Stores Markets cities have flourishing antiques
& Boutiques markets, but most of the items
The best way to experience on sale will undoubtedly be

The consumer revolution in China’s diversity and its fake. However, as long as you

China has led to the mush- many ethnic cultures is to visit don’t mistake them for the real

rooming of upmarket brand the bustling local markets, thing, it is fun to browse and

stores, shopping plazas, and especially in rural areas. bargain for cheap replicas. The

fashion boutiques in every city, Held on specific days state-run antique shops, like the

especially Beijing and Shanghai. of the week, these are Friendship Stores,

Brands from D&G to Gap, Zara, locally known as are in decline – and

Apple, and Hershey chocolates ganji, which means never had any

can now be found in the “going to market,” bargains anyway.

leading retail cities of Shanghai or gangai, mean- Shops in the foyers

and Beijing, as well as the many ing “going to of art galleries and

malls in other Chinese cities. the street.” museums also sell

As in most developed coun- Traditionally, Selling carpets at a market in works of art such as

tries, there is heavy emphasis people from the Linxia, Gansu scroll paintings,

on high-end items such as surrounding calligraphy, and

electrical goods, designer countryside came into town on attractive silk scarves. In China,

fashion, perfumes, jewelry, and market days to buy or sell their objects dating to 1795 or earlier

watches, while large stores, farm produce. may not be legally exported, so

such as Carrefour, Marks & Nowadays however, rural make sure any antiques (of a

Spencer, IKEA, and Walmart, markets are expanding their later date) that you purchase

offer foods, souvenirs, and scope, and it is not uncommon carry a red wax seal permitting

household goods at to see stalls selling a range of export. Always keep the

reasonable prices. household items from receipts as they may be

toothbrushes to woks and required at Customs.

Shopping Malls

Like in all fast-emerging Asian A souvenir shop in Qingcheng Shan park near Chengdu
nations, mall shopping is a
favored urban leisure pursuit. In
most Chinese cities, glassy retail
plazas dominate the down-
town areas. They are usually
built to a similar design and
house a mix of upmarket
brands, coffee shops, fast food
outlets, and local eateries, with
a giant supermarket in the
basement. In the central
business districts of the largest
cities, upscale shopping malls
are attached to luxury hotels.
While the malls multiply, China’s
department store heritage is
fast diminishing.

588 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

What to Buy in China

Market stalls and small shops sell interesting souvenirs in A collection of Mao statuettes in many
tourist centers throughout China. Traditionally styled items different poses
can be found just about everywhere, while many other crafts
are regional. You can find beautifully intricate embroidery in
the southwest, prayer wheels and flags in Tibet, carpets in
Xinjiang, and ginseng in the northeast. When shopping in
markets it is essential to bargain. Gift shops at factories
usually have fixed, but inflated, prices.

Calligraphy

A skill as revered as painting, calligraphy is an ancient
Chinese art that is a fluid form of self-expression.
Master calligraphers practice their art assiduously,
and one of their works could be very expensive. Less
costly examples of calligraphy are widely available.

Scrolls painted with elegantly Marble chops are traditionally used to
striking script make excellent imprint a calligrapher’s seal on to a work.
souvenirs. Skilled calligraphers At many craft markets vendors create
will paint chosen sayings in personalized chops by carving a character
different styles or you can version of a person’s name on the base.
purchase pre-painted works.
Ink stick
Lid of ink stone

Writing
brush

Base of ink
stone

Writing brushes Painted on paper or silk with
should have a defined simple brushstrokes, painting is
one of the most important tradi-
tip and firm fur bristles. tional arts. Many paintings now
Ink sticks made of soot are have contemporary touches.

ground down and mixed Yixingware, or purple sand
with water on an ink stone. pottery from Ding Shan in
Anhui (see p224), is usually a
Ceramics dark reddish brown, but can
also be green, buff, or gray.
Chinese ceramics are known the world
over. They have been mass produced for
hundreds of years, with fired pots being
passed through a line of artisans, each
adding a layer to the glaze. Porcelain, a
fine, translucent ceramic, was invented
during the Sui dynasty, and high quality
pieces are still produced.

Jingdezhen in Jiangxi has been one
of the main producers of porcelain
since the 10th century (see pp260–
61). It still produces fine pieces,
although some of the cheaper
wares may be decorated by stencil.

SHOPS & MARKETS 589

Silk

Woven from the strands that make up a silk worm’s
cocoon, silk is also a Chinese invention (see pp214–15).
Clothes made of silk, such as ladies’ cheongsams,
are widely available, but be aware that silk sold in
markets is likely to be rayon. Beautiful embroidery
on silk is also available.

Silk embroidered coasters Silk-covered
cushions
Silk bags
Jade, a semi-precious
Other Traditional Handicrafts stone, is associated
with immortality. These
Occasionally created by skilled craftsmen but pendants are green,
often mass produced, Chinese handicrafts are but the lustrous gem
almost always highly intricate and of vibrant can also be gray or brown.
color. The variety of goods on offer is staggering,
from delicate miniature glass bottles to the bold
graphics of communist memorabilia.

Lacquerware Decorative The best paper cuts are made in a
jewelry box tassel few minutes by a master craftsman
with a pair of scissors. Most paper
Glass snuff bottles Carved Mao lighter cuts are mass produced, with many
were popularized dur- wooden simultaneously cut to a pattern.
ing the Qing dynasty,
when snuff usage fan Cloisonné vases, boxes,
was common. Using and jars have been
a hooked brush, arti- copper-enamelled:
sans paint miniature copper is faced
scenes inside.
with pieces of col-
ored enamel and

fired, creating a
shiny finish.

Baoding balls are weight-
ed and sometimes contain
a chime. The two balls are
maneuvered in one band,
strengthening grip and massaging the
channels through which qi runs (see p238).

Mao memorabilia is based

on designs that existed during

Mao’s rule. Some Tea, often sold in colorful
tin caddies, is available
is authentic, everywhere. Tie guanyin
and other oolong teas of
but most Fujian are very fine. Pu’er is a
specialty of the southwest.
communist

souvenirs are

produced for the

tourist market. Mao badges

590 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT

The Chinese work hard, but they also take counterparts, including contemporary films
their leisure seriously, and have a range of and music concerts. Karaoke is hugely
traditional and modern entertainment. The popular, and most towns and cities have
vast tradition of performing arts reflects numerous bars, where visitors can sing along
China’s rich cultural heritage, and includes to popular Chinese and Western songs,
Chinese opera, theater, shadow puppetry, accompanied by the latest videos. The
and the circus. Many types of dance and Internet has opened up new avenues for
music derive from ethnic cultures, adding online entertainment, with many people
to the diversity of entertainment. China’s carrying smartphones, iPads, and PSPs. Casino
increasing westernization has meant that gambling is only permitted in the specially
young people in particular enjoy the same administered region of Macau, and horse
leisure activities as their western racing is popular in Hong Kong (see p338).

popular among the older
generation, and people practice
early in the morning in parks,
squares, and gardens.

Traditional Forms
of Theater

Beijing opera (jingju) is a world

famous traditional art form

unique to China (see pp80–81). It

is highly stylized, and characters

wear elaborate costumes with

special makeup and masks.

Performances usually take

Passing the time with a game of xiangqi on the sidewalks of Xi’an place on a simple stage with

Games few props.
vertical and ten horizontal lines. The Chinese circus has a

Playing games in public parks The board game Go (weiqi) worldwide reputation for its

is a timeworn Chinese custom, dates back more than 4,000 highly trained gymnasts who

and though visitors may feel too years. Also known as encircle- perform breathtaking routines

inhibited to challenge locals to ment chess, it involves two that showcase their unnerving

a game, they are great fun to opposing sides, each with flexibility. Displays of balance

watch. Some Chinese games a set of circular stones, often involve household props,

date back thousands of years. struggling for territory. such as brooms, plates, and

The most well-known game is chairs, with one of the most

mahjong, which uses plastic Spectator Sports
tiles, originally made of bamboo

or ivory. The rules are similar to The most popular sports

rummy, with players trying to at schools and colleges are

create identical, or consecutively basketball, badminton, and

numbered, sets. More advanced table tennis (ping pong),

versions of the game have and the Chinese excel

special tiles representing the internationally in the latter

four winds, four dragons, two. Soccer is also played

seasons, and flowers. When a and followed with

game is in full swing, the quick enthusiasm. The top

movements of the participants European clubs have a

make the tiles click and clatter – strong fan-base in China,

a popular translation of and Chinese soccer players

mahjong is “chattering sparrows.” are now being recruited by

Chinese checkers (xiangqi) is them. Fitness centers and

another popular game. Here, gyms are becoming

there are two opposing sets of increasingly popular in

round counters. The board is cities. Traditional martial Actors in a Beijing opera, performing in

divided into squares by nine arts such as tai ji quan are opulent costumes

ENTERTAINMENT 591

popular tricks being performed increasingly popular with young

by 20 or so acrobats piled people, although the older

precariously on a bicycle. These generation remain faithful to

routines are often combined their traditional teahouses.

with acts involving caged and

tame animals, but the current Rock & Pop Music
trend is toward a purer display

of acrobatics. China’s rock scene is young

Some forms of traditional and rebellious, and only really

dance still exist, especially gained a foothold in the 1980s,

among China’s ethnic groups. when it played a central role at

Some relate to shamanistic the Tian’an Men Square protests.

or other religious rituals, and Still not accepted by state-run

often involve the wearing of radio stations, bands rely on the

special masks. Internet and word of mouth.

Chinese pop music is following

Shadow Plays & Crowds enjoying the many bars along Lan in the same footsteps as the
Puppet Theater Kwai Fong, Hong Kong West, with young singers from
TV talent shows like Chinese Idol

Shadow plays (piyingxi) are instruments, has up to 17 and Voice of China making it

popular, and usually involve bamboo pipes and a vibrating big nationwide.

the use of leather puppets reed. Another ancient instrument Canto-pop, Hong Kong’s

with jointed limbs. These are is the earthenware xun. Dating popular music tradition, has

manipulated close to a white back 8,000 years, and sometimes sugary lyrics of love and loss,

sheet and lit from behind, made of bone or ivory, it has a sung in Cantonese. Many

throwing their shadows on to mouthpiece and a series of holes Canto-pop singers become

the sheet. The performance is for varying the tones. Percussion hugely popular pin-ups, as have

accompanied by singing and Instruments include a new generation of Mando-

music. Plays with wooden gongs, chimes, pop stars, singing in Mandarin,

puppets (mu’ouxi) involve drums, woodblocks, from Taiwan and the mainland.

elaborate and colorfully dressed and xylophones.

marionettes, glove puppets, or Kite Flying Cinema
puppets on the end of rods.
China has traditionally produced

Traditional Music Kite flying is a major many good films, based mainly
hobby in China, on folk tales, love stories, or

Chinese music can be especially on strong patriotic themes. Chinese

traced back as far public holidays cinema has also embraced

as the Shang era. when parks, international tastes, including

Ancient sets of 65 gardens, and even those of both Hollywood and

bells from the 5th city squares are Bollywood, and movies such as

century BC have been crowded with Zhang Yimou’s popular Hero,

unearthed. During the A musician strums the displays of colorful released in 2004, blended

Tang dynasty, the lute-like pipa and fantastically martial arts with impressive

traditional musical shaped kites. Birds special effects. All cities show

forms began to take root and and dragons are the most foreign movies, although they

music was also an important common kite designs. are often censored.

part of Confucian education.

Traditional instruments Bars, Discos &
include strings, winds, and Karaoke
percussion. String instruments

played with the fingers, plec- Bars, nightclubs, and

trum, or bow are the Chinese karaoke lounges

violin, horizontal harp, and have sprung up all

many-stringed zithers, such as over urban China.

the zheng. The lute-like pipa is Some bars specialize

one of the most important in live bands, and

stringed instruments. The most these are very

common bamboo flutes are the popular with expats,

vertical (xiao) and horizontal foreign visitors, and

(di). The hulusu made from a urban Chinese –

gourd and bamboo is popularly be warned that

used in folk music. The sheng, drinks are expensive. Delicate kites for sale catching the breeze

one of the oldest Chinese Coffee bars are also from the Yangzi, Wuhan

592 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

SPORTS &
SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS

As the Olympic host for 2008, Beijing was the rock climbing, and more. Courses in martial arts
showpiece city for a nation that celebrates can be found in most tourist centers, or head to
sporting heroes with the fervor once reserved the hallowed halls of the Shaolin Temple to find
for political icons – soccer and basketball have a master. Organized tours ply the major sights
become big spectator sports. The spending of the country, but for a really memorable
power and leisure interests of China’s booming experience consider booking a trip that has
middle classes translate into more sporting a fascinating focus, whether photography,
choices for visitors too – there’s skiing, golf, whitewater rafting, costume, or horse trekking.

The Olympic Games NBA stars such as the towering Golf
Yao Ming. Beijing and Shanghai
Infrastructure improvements host the annual NBA China Despite initial Communist Party
and massive construction Games in August, featuring two reluctance to embrace this
projects transformed Beijing in of the top US basketball teams. elitist, land-hungry sport, golf is
the run-up to 2008 Olympics. quite popular in China. Visiting
The city promised a “Green The annual Rugby Sevens golfers can enjoy over 200
Olympics, Hi-tech Olympics, tournament in March is a courses nationwide. Mission
People’s Olympics,” so visitors massive – and very rowdy – Hills has 15 separate courses
enjoyed acres of parkland and event in Hong Kong, with in two tournament locations
futuristic stadiums. Half of the international teams playing at Shenzhen and Haikou; while
main Olympic Park area, at the almost 70 games over three the course on Jade Dragon
apex of an extended imperial days. The Hong Kong Rugby Snow Mountain near Lijiang,
axis running north–south Football Union plays regular Yunnan, is one of the world’s
through the city, is being turned fixtures during the rugby highest. Perhaps the most
into woodland and lawns. season, which runs from alluring is the beautiful Spring
November through March. City course near Kunming.
At the 2008 Olympics, 43 Most courses are open to the
world records and 132 new Both Shanghai and Beijing host public, and prices are similar
Olympic records were set. China tennis tournaments – Shanghai to those in Western countries.
won 100 medals, 51 of them has the ATP Rolex Masters and
gold, and so the Games were Beijing the China Open. Swimming
declared a logistical success.
Shanghai hosted the Formula China has plenty of
In 2010, the Asian Games took One Grand Prix for the first time coastline but lacks the beach
place in Guangzhou; in 2014, in 2004. Tickets are expensive, culture of its southeast Asian
Nanjing will host the Youth but 80 percent of the circuit is neighbors. However, Hainan
Olympics; and in 2015, Beijing’s visible from the stands. Island is touted as China’s
National Stadium will host the Hawaii, and the resorts there are
World Athletics Championships. For a Chinese flavor, track improving fast, while Beihai in
down the Minority Nationalities Guangxi boasts a very long
Spectator Sports Traditional Sports Games. Ethnic stretch of sand. Closer to the
groups play unusual sports from
China has gone soccer-mad. dragon boat racing to elephant
Although ancient records tug-of-war.
describe a game of kick-ball
with three players on each side, Horse trek up the steep sides of Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan
and paintings show a Song
emperor juggling a ball with
his feet, soccer is a fairly recent
phenomenon here. The Chinese
Professional Soccer League was
established in 1994, and the
China Super League, an elite
group of teams, kicked off in
2004. The Super League has a
massive fan base, but has run
into problems with corruption
and sponsorship. Basketball is
also gaining in popularity, its
profile boosted by Chinese

SPORTS & SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS 593

Traversing the sand dunes of Mingsha Shan by camel, near Dunhuang, Gansu

capital, enjoy Beidaihe, long the the bane of all organized trips nationwide, including trips to

Communist Party’s summer in China. These detours (from remote Tibetan monasteries in

retreat, or the seashores of which your guide may be western Sichuan and through

the lovely city of Qingdao. earning a commission) can cut the dense jungle and rural

sightseeing time short and will hamlets of Xishuangbanna.

Downhill Skiing become increasingly boring. Bespoke Beijing is an excellent
There’s a wide choice of resource for tours, excursions,

The best natural snow and ski tour companies to travel with. and guided walks in and around

resorts lie in Heilongjiang and Abercrombie and Kent is an Beijing and Tianjin. They also

Jilin provinces. Yabuli, about 100 established international group arrange hotel and car bookings

miles (160 km) from Harbin, is one that has provided well-organized and restaurant reservations.

of the most established resorts, trips for decades. Steppes

and Club Med has opened its Travel, which is particularly Train Spotting
first winter sports resort there. strong on the Silk Routes and

Several upmarket ski resorts are Tibet, provides suggested With its extensive rail network,

also opening at Changbai Shan. itineraries that it is happy to China has been a favorite

In the Beijing suburbs there are adapt. The company also destination of train lovers

at least 10 slopes, mostly with organizes special interest tours, for years, particularly as it

man-made snow, and Shanghai such as those that seek out continued to run steam

has one of the world’s largest the intricate embroidery and locomotives well after other

indoor facilities. Large feet may beautiful textiles of Tibet and nations discontinued their use.

cause problems with equipment Guangxi. Mongol Global Tours The last line to run steam, the

rentals, and watch your back – organizes trips focusing on Jitong railway, no longer does,

complete novices abound. costumes and special itineraries but tours to highly industrialized

for photographers. Myths and areas still operate, as many

Choosing a Tour Mountains has some well private lines at mining pits still
thought-out itineraries that use steam. China now has a

A multitude of tour companies cover Yunnan and Tibet, and national super high-speed rail

ferry groups of tourists through also organizes horse trekking. network, which has revolution-

the top sights of China. If you are Wild China organizes tours ized rail travel (see pp616–17).

thinking of booking a

tour, do your research

carefully; it is

essential to find one

that suits you well.

Beyond the obvious

essentials of types

of accommodation,

transport, the size of

the group, and the

itinerary, be sure to

ask about the tipping

policy, which can

sometimes add a

sizeable unexpected

cost to your trip. Also

query the frequency

of shopping stops, Boarding a traditional raft kept afloat by inflated sheep stomachs, Yellow River

594 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

of kung fu practitioners
at daybreak in the nation’s
parks, particularly if your
interest is tai ji quan.

If you want to fight with
more than your bare hands,
paintballing is growing in
popularity – try the listings
magazines in the large cities.
For those who really need to
let off steam, anti-aircraft guns
and AK-47s are available for
renting at the firing range
en route from Beijing to the
Great Wall at Badaling.

Hot air balloon floating amongst the karst peaks of Yangshuo, Guangxi Climbing

Cycling quan during the 6th century. The Most of China’s sacred and
temple is surrounded by kung scenic mountains, such as Tai
Although the curse of the fu schools, which have courses Shan and Huang Shan, have
automobile threatens the bicycle that range from a week to six steps, cable cars, and crowds all
kingdom, China remains a great months or longer. The less well- the way to the summit. Some of
place to saddle up. You will see known monastery on Wudang the mountains have less-used
more from a bike than a bus, and Shan in Hubei (see p278), said to paths that make for pleasant
gain greater insight into the lives be the home of tai ji quan, also hiking, but if you are a serious
of the locals. A well-organized has schools of martial arts. mountaineer, you will need to
tour should provide alternative head to western China. The true
transport if you become Most forms of kung fu taught roof of the world awaits in Tibet
exhausted or fall ill, and will in China are watered-down – topping Mount Everest will
have all the fix-it gear and able versions of the original martial require patience and official
mechanics to deal with problem forms, which have become approval, but treks to Everest
chains and derailers. Itineraries popular and effective ways to base camp in the Rongbuk
are set at different levels, from keep fit. If you are looking for Valley are offered by several
easy to challenging, and some pure fighting technique, you travel operators. Other
companies provide bikes, while may have more luck overseas, spectacular climbs include
others ask that you bring your or possibly, in Hong Kong. In Gongga Shan in Sichuan and
own wheels to keep costs Beijing, Shanghai, and other big also Muztaghata in Xinjiang
down. For biking tours, consider cities, courses are advertized in (an easier climb and you can
specialist operators like Bike listings magazines, but although ski down), but, again, seek
China Adventures who are there are plenty of sports permission first.
based in Chengdu, Bike institutes in China with classes,
Shanghai and Cycle China. you may have difficulty finding More feasible is rock climbing
an English-speaking instructor. at Yangshuo in Guangxi, where
In rural areas, renting a bike for Head to one of the traveler the limestone crags that
a day or two is the best way to havens, such as Yangshuo, Dali, inspired poets down the
see sights just outside of town or Lijiang, and you are certain centuries now inspire climbers
and get a feel for countryside to find capable instruction in up the peaks. Asia’s fastest
life. There are plenty of bike-hire English. Of course, you can developing sport climbing
shops in most places, and many always try joining the leagues area combines a wide range
hotels can also arrange bike
rental. In cities remember to
park in designated areas (retain
the token) and keep to cycle
lanes where possible.

Martial Arts A class of soon-to-be kung fu masters, Shaolin Temple, Henan

China attracts thousands of
martial arts enthusiasts hoping
to find the roots to their practice.
Many head for famous Shaolin
Temple in Henan (see p164),
where Bodhidarma is said to
have first taught the monks exer-
cises that developed into shaolin

SPORTS & SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS 595

Panda at the Breeding Center near Chengdu in the heavenly Spot a panda at the Wolong
mountains of Nature Reserve (see p375) or
of climbs with beautiful Xinjiang and the in the Breeding Center (see
views, winding rivers and national parks of p366), where efforts are made
great accommodations. Sichuan. Check to conserve the threatened
with specialist tour species. Bird-watching tours
A few intrepid spelunkers companies and head to Qinghai province for
have been exploring the the Northwest Bird Island on Qinghai Hu (see
extensive karst cave network of Yunnan Ecotourism p503), and to parks such as
Guangxi. A small industry of Association. Zhalong National Reserve
caving tours has developed, Whitewater rafting (see p458), in the northeastern
although, for the most part, the trips are popular in province of Heilongjiang,
itineraries are geared to the the southwest and in Tibet. If and Xixi Wetlands Park near
experienced spelunker. you are thinking of signing up, Hangzhou, a natural sanctuary
check the company’s credentials for birds and wildlife.
Trekking & Camping and past history, and ensure
that high-quality helmets, life- China’s environment was
The fascinating southwest jackets, and, if necessary, savaged in the 20th century by
offers some of the best trekking wetsuits are provided. political campaigns to move
possibilities in the country, Camping independently mountains with manpower; in
such as exploring the jungle in China is tricky, and not the 21st, rampant economic
of Xishuangbanna or visiting recommended. However, the growth threatens both biodi-
remote Tibetan monasteries. lack of legal camping facilities versity and cultural diversity,
Horse-riding trips are possible may be about to change, and conservation efforts are
because caravan culture has growing to save China’s unique
just reached China. RVing is still wildlife and ways of life.
in its birthing stages and as the
industry develops, trailer parks To support a responsible
and camp grounds are certain approach to tourism and the
to appear. Restrictions on environment, consider tours
foreign drivers mean that and ecolodges offered by
motorhoming is not yet an organizations such as the
option for non-residents. Northwest Yunnan Ecotourism
Association, based near Lijiang
in Yunnan.

DIRECTORY

Sports Spring City Bespoke Beijing Wild China
Tangchi, Yilang, B510, 107 Dongsi Bei Room 803 Oriental Palace,
Basketball Yunnan, PRC 652103. Dajie, Dongcheng District, 9 East Dongfang Road,
∑ nbachina.com Tel (0871) 6767 1188. Beijing. North Dongganhuan Road,
∑ springcity Tel (010) 6400 0133. Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Formula One resort.com ∑ bespoke-beijing. Tel (010) 6465 6602.
∑ icsh.sh.cn com ∑ wildchina.com
Downhill Skiing
Rugby Mongol Global Tours Cycle Tours
∑ hkrugby.com Yabuli California, USA 90630.
100 miles (160 km) east of Tel 866 225 0577. Bike China
Soccer Harbin, Heilongjiang. ∑ mongolglobal Adventures
∑ sinosoc.com Tel (0451) 5345 8888. tours.com 6 Yi Guan Miao Fang
∑ yabuliski.com Cao Jie, Wangfu Huayuan
Tennis Myths & Mountains 64-1-17, Chengdu.
∑ chinaopen.com.cn Tour Companies Nevada, USA 89451. Tel 1-800 818 1778.
∑ rolexmasters.com Tel 1-800 670 6984. ∑ bikechina.com
Abercrombie & Kent ∑ journeystochina.
Golf ∑ abercrombie com Bike Shanghai
kent.com ∑ bikeshanghai.com
HSBC Champions In the US: Steppes Travel
Golf 1520 Kensington Road, 51 Castle St, Cirencester, Cycle China
∑ hsbcgolf.com Suite 212, Oak Brook, Gloucestershire, ∑ cyclechina.com
IL 60523-2156. UK GL7 1QD.
Mission Hills Tel 1-800 554 7016. Tel (01285) 880 980. Ecotourism
1 Mission Hills Road, In the UK: ∑ steppestravel.co.uk
Shenzhen. 80–82 Cheapside, Northwest Yunnan
Tel (0755) 2802 0888. 1 London EC2V 6EB. Tibetan Connections Ecotourism Assoc.
Mission Hills Blvd, Haikou. Tel (0845) 485 1532. ∑ tibetanconnections. Tel (0139) 8882 6672.
Tel (0898) 6868 3888. com ∑ northwestyunnan.
∑ missionhillschina. com
com



SURVIVAL
GUIDE

Practical Information 598–611
Travel Information 612–621

598 SURVIVAL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

China is going through an explosion in both cities the tourist infrastructure, including
international and domestic tourism. While transportation, hotels, and restaurants, is
there have been gradual improvements in on a par with international standards. The
the quality of tourist services, some of the remoter areas, however, provide fairly basic
remoter sights can still be difficult to reach accommodations and may not be equipped
independently, and most accessible sights to cater to the needs of the international
get very crowded, especially during the tourist. Communication also poses
summer season. Due to the absence of a difficulties, as English is not spoken widely
nationwide non-profit network of tourist and its usage is generally restricted to major
information centers, visitors often have to cities, tour groups, four- and five-star hotels,
rely on hotels for guidance. In the larger and restaurants catering to tourists.

When to Go as half of China will be traveling Advance Booking
as well. Tourist sights are
Although there are great swamped with local sightseers, The boom in domestic tourism
climatic disparities within and most hotels and guest- means it is advisable to book
China, spring and fall are houses raise their rates. ahead year-round, but
generally the best months especially during the peak
to travel. The peak tourist What to Take holiday periods between
season, however, is during May 1 and October 1, and the
summer (June to September), The clothes you need will Chinese New Year. Booking in
best avoided if you don’t like depend on the time of year that advance using the Internet
the heat – it is baking hot in you visit. In northern China, can secure you good deals
North China, steamy in the from November until March, on accommodations. Unless
Yangzi region, and sweltering you will require a down jacket, traveling on short intercity
in South China. Winter is gloves, sweater, warm socks, routes, train tickets should be
fiercely cold in North China, thermal leggings, sturdy bought a few days before
particularly in the northeast. footwear, and lip balm. During travel, as seats can be in short
Winters in South China are the same season in the south, supply. Train tickets can only be
more pleasant, especially on you still need a sweater and purchased up to five days in
the perennially warm Hainan warm clothes, even as far south advance of the day of travel.
Island and parts of Yunnan as Hong Kong. In summer, Bus tickets need not be booked
province. Climate and rainfall across most of China, you only in advance, but airplane tickets
charts are found on pages need loose-fitting shirts or should be, especially during
54–5. Planning a trip to t-shirts, and thin trousers. Shorts major holiday periods.
coincide with the holiday and will also do, though not many
festival periods (see pp50–53) Chinese wear them. Bring a Visas & Passports
can lead to a fun and colorful first-aid kit (see p606), raincoat,
trip experiencing China at its sun hat, deodorant, pocket A passport, valid for at least
liveliest. However, tickets for knife, flashlight, and some six months, and a visa are
air, train, and bus transport good reading material. necessary to enter the People’s
can be very difficult to acquire, Republic of China. Most foreign
nationals don’t require a visa
Temperate weather at a tea garden in Chengdu for entering Hong Kong and
Night-time view of highway junction in Guangzhou Macau but will need one if
traveling on to mainland
China. Chinese embassies and
consulates around the world
issue a standard single-entry,
30-day visa, although multiple-
entry visas, and 60-day visas can
also be obtained, depending on
the purpose of your visit. Visas
cannot be issued at the border.
When completing the visa
application form, you must
clearly specify what parts of
China you plan to visit. Avoid
mentioning Tibet, or Xinjiang,
even if you plan to visit these