DK Eyewitness Travel Guide_ China

HANGZHOU 249

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Hangzhou.
Zhejiang Provincial Museum:
25 Gushan Rd. Tel (0571) 8797
1177. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
∑ zhejiangmuseum.com

Transport
4 regularly from eastern shore
near Hubin Rd. Boats for hire on
Gu Shan Island.

. Su Causeway
The longer of the two causeways takes its name from the Song-
dynasty poet, Su Dongpo, who also served as governor. Linked by
six stone bridges, the causeway is a peaceful thoroughfare running
along the lake’s western edge.

Bridge to Quyuan Garden
This bridge leads to a stunning
garden surrounded by lotus flowers.
It is considered one of the ten
prospects from where the lake
can be seen to best advantage.

GU SHAN

XI HU BEI LI HU

Marco Polo

Whether Marco Polo ever visited China is much

disputed. However, according to the book he

dictated to a ghost writer who embroidered it

substantially, Polo became governor of nearby

Yangzhou for three years during the Yuan dynasty.

He describes Hangzhou as paradise and the finest

city in the world, with fascinating

markets, pleasure boats, and

prostitutes. Hangzhou was

indeed a cosmopolitan city,

ever since the Southern Song

dynasty made it their

capital. The Travels of

Marco Polo, however, may

be based on earlier

journeys by his father and Bai Causeway
Named after the 9th-century poet-governor Bai Juyi,
uncle, and stories from Engraving of Marco Polo, this dyke leads to Gu Shan, an island first landscaped
other merchants. 1254–1324 during the Tang dynasty, and now containing a tea
house and the provincial museum.





252 CENTRAL CHINA

3 Ningbo

90 miles (145 km) SE of Hangzhou. *
7,600,000. k £ @ g n 719
Zhongxing Rd, (0574) 8911 5389.

China’s greatest port between

the Song and Ming eras,

Ningbo is located upstream

from the coast on the Yong

River. It was later eclipsed by

Shanghai, but has regained

some importance due to its

deep natural harbor. The town

has had a long association with

Lu Xun’s Former Residence, Shaoxing commerce. When Shanghai and

2 Shaoxing Guangzhou prospered in the

47 miles (67 km) SE of Hangzhou. * Shaoxing’s most famous bridge, 19th and early 20th centuries,
4,900,000. £ @ n 288 Zhongxing
Zhong Rd, (0575) 8520 0067. the 13th-century Bazi Qiao, Ningbo’s residents were
∑ sx.gov.cn
resembles the Chinese employed as “compradors,”
Despite the proliferation of new
buildings, this canal town has character for number 8, and lies agents or mediators by the
retained its charm, with its
narrow streets, arched bridges, in a charming area of old streets foreign companies.
and whitewashed houses.
Ancient Shaoxing was the capital off Baziqiao Zhi Jie, north of Ningbo’s main sight is the
of the Yue kingdom during 770–
221 BC. It remained important Lu Xun Lu. Tianye Ge, a 16th-century
over the years even when
Hangzhou became the Song The town makes a private library, the oldest
capital. Today, it is a scenic place
to explore for its waterways. good base for several in China. It resembles a

The Qing Teng Shu Wu excursions. The scenic traditional garden with
(Green Vine Study), former
home of the 16th-century writer Dong Hu (East Lake) is bamboo groves,
and artist Xu Wei, lies off
Dacheng Long, an alley not far nearby. Visitors can also rockeries, and pavilions,
from Jiefang Nan Road.
Regarded as the best example take a boat to Yu Ling, one of which exhibits
of traditional domestic
architecture in China, the house allegedly the tomb of ancient books and
has a simple ornamental
garden, while one of its rooms Yu the Great, founder of scrolls. To the southeast
displays Xu’s expressive art.
the Xia kingdom (2200 off Kaiming Jie, is the
There are also several houses
associated with Lu Xun, perhaps BC). Farther out is Lan 14th-century Tianfeng
the best known modern
Chinese writer, born here in Ting (Orchid Pavilion), Stone lion, Tianye Ge Pagoda. The former
1881. Most of them are
clustered together on Lu Xun where China’s greatest foreign concession lies at
Road. The Lu Xun Memorial Hall
has no English captions, but Lu calligrapher, Wang Xizhi (AD the northern end of Xinjiang
Xun’s Former Residence is a
fine example of domestic 321–79), threw a party where, Bridge, with a 17th-century
architecture, with photographs,
furniture, and personal items. so one story goes, guests had to Portuguese church and a
Opposite is Sanwei Shuwu, the
school where he studied. drink cups of wine as they riverside Bund. Outside the city,

floated past and compose a Baoguo Si temple’s Mahavira

poem, recorded by the host. Hall is the oldest surviving

P Qing Teng Shu Wu wooden building in the Yangzi
10 Qian Guan Xiang. Open daily. & delta region.

P Lu Xun’s Former Residence P Tianyi Ge

235 Lu Xun Zhong Rd. Open daily. & 5 Tianyi Jie. Open 8am–5pm daily. &

Charming narrow streets around Tianye Ge, Ningbo

Pavilion Bridge over West Lake, Hangzhou

ZHEJIANG & JHANGXI 253

4 Putuo Shan True Enlightenment) houses 7 Wenzhou
Zhiyi’s mummified body in a
See pp254–5. pagoda in its main hall. 160 miles (257 km) S of Ningbo.
* 9,100,000. ~ £ @ n Area 1,
} Huading Peak Wenzhou Sports Center, (0577) 8815
Open daily. & 7168.

The Guoqing Si Monastery, at the foot of 6 Yandang Shan Located on the southeast coast
Tiantai Shan of Zhejiang province, Wenzhou
50 miles (80 km) NE of Wenzhou. has always been a seafaring city.
5 Tiantai Shan @ from Wenzhou to terminus at It is still a busy port and its
Yandang Zhen. booming economy is mainly due
118 miles (190 km) SE of Hangzhou. @ to heavy investment in manufac-
This is a beautiful area of sheer turing and textiles by overseas
The heavenly terrace Mountain hills, luxuriant slopes, and Chinese. A good base for visiting
– Tiantai Shan – is the seat of monasteries. Its highest peak, nearby Yandang Shan, the city
the Tiantai Buddhist sect, which Baigang Shan, reaches 3,773 ft also offers a few sights of its own.
also has strong links with (1,150 m). The Big Dragon Pool The most popular, Jiangxin Park,
Daoism (see pp36–7). A Falls (Dalongqiu Pubu) cascade is on an island in the Ou River,
pilgrimage site since the Eastern 623 ft (190 m), making them easily be reached by the regular
Jin, today it is especially popular one of China’s highest. The path ferry service from Wangjiang
with Japanese Buddhists, who leading to them weaves among Dong Road. Completely devoid
regard China as the Buddhist towering columns of rock, of traffic, the park’s pretty
motherland. The sect’s founder, where, on the hour, a cyclist gardens, pavilions, pagodas, and
the monk Zhiyi, spent most of performs a high-wire act. The footbridges make it a pleasant
his life on the mountain, where largest area is Divine Peaks place to spend a few hours. It
the imperial court helped him (Ling Feng), excellent for hiking also has a working lighthouse.
to construct a temple. This among caves and strangely Stretching between Jiefang Road
wonderfully scenic spot, with its shaped peaks. The Divine Cliffs and Xinhe Road to the south of
paths, streams, and woodlands, area (Ling Yan), reached by the Ou River is what is left of the
is ideal for walking. Several cable car, has walkways and a old town. Here and there are a
famous plants such as huading suspension bridge. From the few particular buildings of
cloud, mist tea, the Tiantai bus terminus at Yandang Zhen, interest such as the 18th-century
mandarin orange, as well as a there are several walking trails. British-built Protestant church,
variety of medicinal plants, were the 19th-century Catholic
discovered here. } Big Dragon Pool Falls church, and the Miaoguo Temple,
Open daily. & whose origins are Tang-dynasty.
The first of Tiantai Shan’s
monasteries, Guoqing Si, lies at } Divine Peaks } Jiangxin Park
its foot, 2 miles (3 km) from Open daily. & Jiangxin Dao. 4 from Jiangxin
Tiantai village. From here, a road Matou, Wenzhou. Open 8am–10pm
leads to the 3,609 ft (1,100 m) daily. &
Huading Peak. Visitors can then
walk to Baijingtai Si (Prayer Walkway with panoramic views, Yandang Shan
Terrace Temple) on the summit
or to Shiliang (Stone Beam)
Waterfall, near the Upper
Fangguang Monastery, where
there are a number of
inscriptions, including one by
the famous Song artist, Mi Fu.
The Zhenjue Si (Monastery of

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

254 CENTRAL CHINA

4 Putuo Shan

Nestled amongst numerous islands in the Zhou Shan To the summit
archipelago, Putuo Shan is one of the four sacred Buddhist A cable car links a minibus stop
mountains, having strong associations with the goddess with the summit of Foding Shan
of compassion and mercy, Guanyin. It has been considered from where there are wonderful
holy since the 10th century, and although the temples views across the island and
suffered greatly at the hands of the Red Guards during the out to sea.
Cultural Revolution, they are still impressive and full of
fascination. A small, attractive island, fringed with bright
blue waters and sandy beaches, Putuo Shan has become
a very popular place of pilgrimage. Minibuses ply the roads
between the major temples and sights, but the island’s hills,
caves and beaches are best explored on foot.

. Puji Si
Surrounded by beautiful camphor
trees, this extensive temple is located
at the island’s tourist center. The first
temple was built here in the
11th century, although the
current temple is far newer.

. Guanyin Colossus
At the southern tip of the island
a massive 108-ft (33-m) statue of
Guanyin stands near the shore.

A pavilion at its base exhibits a
collection of some 400 statues

representing the goddess in
her numerous incarnations.

Chaoyang
Dong

Bai Bu

Jin sha

KEY Chaoyin
1 Duobao Pagoda Dong

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

ZHEJIANG & JIANGXI 255

Huiji Si VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Close to the top of
Foding Shan, Huiji Practical Information
Temple, dating back to 50 miles (80 km) east of Ningbo,
1793, stands resplendent off coast of Zhejiang. & for
amid tea bushes and island access, plus minimal fees
bamboo groves. for separate sights. _ Guanyin
Festival (early Apr, mid-Aug &
Huo’AI sha early Nov). ∑ putuoshan.net

Gufo Transport
Dong ~ at Zhou Shan. g from
Shanghai (fast ferry: 4 hrs; slow
ferry: 14 hrs), Ningbo (fast ferry:
2.5 hrs; slow ferry: 5 hrs), and
Zhou Shan (half hour).

0 meters Key
0 yards Paths
Road

500
500

Foding
Shan

Shancai Fanyin Qian Bu Sha
Dong Dong The loveliest of Putuo Shan’s beaches, Qian Bu
Sha (Thousand Step Beach) stretches along the
eastern coast and is separated from Bai Bu Sha
(Hundred Step Beach) by a headland and cave,

Chaoyang Dong, concealing a teahouse.

The Legend of Hui’e

Hui’e, a Japanese monk who had purloined a Guanyin

figure from the holy Buddhist mountain Wutai Shan,

was sailing home when his ship

was caught in a violent storm.

Fearing for his life, he vowed to

build a temple to Guanyin if he

were saved. The seas suddenly

calmed, and the ship floated

gently towards the nearby

. Fayu Si shores of Putuo Shan. Believing
The 200 halls of this charming temple pile up
against the flank of a hill overlooking the sea. that Guanyin was choosing the
The Dayuan Hall, unusual for its domed roof
and beamless arched ceiling, was brought island, Hui’e built the promised
here from Nanjing in the late 17th century.
temple and became a devoted

hermit spending the rest of his Frieze of Hui’e sailing near

life on Putuo Shan. Putuo Shan

For additional map symbols see back flap

256 CENTRAL CHINA

8 Nanchang  Youmin Si
181 Minde Lu. Tel (0791) 8622 2301.
Founded during The Han era, this provincial capital flourished Open 8am–5pm daily. & Bayi Park
under the Ming dynasty as a center of trade. However, it is Open 8am–6pm daily. &
best remembered as the scene of a significant uprising led by
the Communist leader Zhou Enlai, who took control of the This Buddhist temple founded
city for a few days in 1927. Although Nanchang was soon in the Liang era in the 6th
recaptured by the Nationalists, the incident started a chain of century is one of Jiangxi’s
events that ultimately led to the formation of the People’s principal shrines. It was
Republic of China. Despite being largely an industrial city, damaged during the Cultural
Nanchang has numerous sights including a good museum Revolution, and has now been
and several sites with revolutionary associations. restored. One of its three halls
has a 33-ft (10-m) high Buddha
standing on a lotus. The temple
also houses a Ming-dynasty
bronze bell and another cast
during the Tang era in AD 967.

Just south of the temple is
Bayi Park (August 1st Park),
formerly the site of the imperial
examination halls. It is a pleasant
expanse of water and greenery,
with an enclosed garden known
as Old Man Su’s Vegetable Plot,
after its Song-dynasty owner.

E Revolutionary Museum

380 Zhongshan Lu. Open daily.

Housed in a striking building that

was once a hotel, the August 1

Uprising Museum was the

headquarters of the Communist

forces led by Zhou Enlai, that

captured the city in 1927. Its

Offering incense sticks in front of the Youmin Si three floors are filled with period

furniture and weaponry.

E Bayi Square Zhu De and Zhou Enlai, who led

Memorial Hall to the Martyrs the uprising that briefly captured P Teng Wang Pavilion

of the Revolution 399 Bayi Dadao. the city on August 1 of that year. 7 Yanjiang Lu. Tel (0791) 8670 4772.

Tel (0791) 8626 2566. Open Their army, consisting of about Open 8am–5pm daily. &
9am–4pm Tue–Sun.
30,000 rebels, held the city The impressive Teng Wang

The huge, open space of Bayi until the Kuomintang forces Pavilion was first built in 653,

(August 1) Square is surrounded drove them out. Although the during the early Tang era and

by some impressive, if slightly operation was a failure, it is immortalized by the poet Tang

chilling, examples of Soviet- considered a defining moment Bo. There have been about 26

inspired revolutionary in 20th-century Chinese history, versions of the pavilion since then

architecture. At the southern and celebrated as the day of – the latest was erected in 1989

end is the Monument to the the birth of the Red Army. to replace the one destroyed by

Martyrs, a theatrical sculpture of

revolutionary fervor topped by

a rifle, while the vast Exhibition Zhou Enlai (1898–1976)
Hall is decorated with a glit-
tering red star. Just north of the Zhou Enlai, one of the early members of the
square is the Memorial Hall to Chinese Communist Party, became the nation’s
the Martyrs of the Revolution, prime minister in 1949. His pragmatism and
which exhibits archival diplomacy helped him survive the constant
photographs of events in China upheavals of Mao Zedong’s chairmanship. To
between the 1920s and 1940s. the West, he represented the reasonable and
affable side of the Chinese people, while to his

P Zhu De’s Former countrymen, he was the only member of the
Residence government to understand their problems.
2 Dong Ming De Lu. Open daily. He is credited with curbing some of the
excesses of the Cultural Revolution. When
This attractive wooden house he died, the outpouring of grief in China was

dates from 1927, when it housed Premier Zhou Enlai in 1973 spontaneous and heartfelt.

the fledgling revolutionaries,

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

ZHEJIANG & JIANGXI 257

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
312 miles (500 km) SW of Hang-
zhou. * 5,100,000. n 32 Ming
De Lu, (0791) 8620 0289.

Transport
£ Train Station.
@ Long Distance Bus Station,
CAAC (buses to airport).
g Ferry Terminal.

The stately Teng Wang Pavilion, on the banks of the Gan Jiang said to avert disaster, while its
destruction heralded the fall of
fire in 1926. The 197-ft (60-m) the kilns at Jingdezhen, dating the city. The pagoda is located
high structure is in the Southern from the 4th century to the in a quaint neighborhood with
Song style. Visitors can take a lift Qing era. There are also several a handful of teahouses, barber
to the top for views of the city. funeral items from the Spring & shops, and grocery stores.
Occasional performances of Autumn period and the Ming
dance and music or local opera era, including statuary, jade E Eight Hermits Hall
are also held in the tiny theater. belts, and jewelry, some of Dingshan Qiao. Open Tue–Sun. &
which was discovered in the The Eight Hermits (Ba Da
E Provincial Museum tomb of the son of Hongwu, Shanren) Memorial Hall was the
2 Xinzhou Jiangxi Lu. Tel (0791) founder of the Ming dynasty. retreat of one of China’s great
8659 5424. Open 9am–4:30pm painters, Zhu Da, who flourished
Tue–Sun.  Shengjin Ta at the end of the Ming era and
Zhishi Jie. Open 8am–5pm daily. & the early Qing dynasty. He was
Located near the river in the Formerly part of a temple, this a descendant of the Ming
west of the city, this museum’s 194-ft (59-m) high brick pagoda imperial family who went into
exhibition space still needs to was first built in the late Tang hiding here after their fall, in
be filled. However, the existing dynasty, but was entirely rebuilt what was originally designed
exhibits are interesting, and in the 18th century. Like many as a Taoist retreat. His paintings,
include fossils found in Jiangxi, pagodas, its construction was strikingly spare and direct, are
and a range of porcelain from reproduced here.

Nanchang City Airport YANGMING LU
Center 27 km (16 miles)

1 Bayi Square Bayi
2 Zhu De’s Former Bridge

Residence Gan Jiang BAYI DA DAODIESHAN LU
3 Youmin Si SUPU LU
4 Revolutionary Museum DABOUYoumin
5 Teng Wang Pavilion XIANGSHAN BEI LUSi
6 Provincial Museum SHENGLI LU
7 Shengjin Ta FU HE BEI LUTeng Wang MINDE LU Zhu De’s
Pavillion Former
Residence

Provincial MINDE LU Bayi BAYI
Museum Gongyuan SQUARE
ZHONGSHAN LU
ZHON G S H A N LU BEIJING
Revolutionary Exhibition XI LU
Museum Hall
RUZI LU
R U Z I LU

Long Distance
Bus Station
SHAN SHJIANNGGDAANDGAO
0 km 1 FU HE Train Station
0 miles DAO 1 km (0.6 miles)
1 DA
BAYI T FU

XIANGSHAN NAN LU LU
ZHONG
ZHANQIAN XI LU ROUN

Shengjin
Ta

Key to Symbols see back flap Eight Hermits Hall

258 CENTRAL CHINA

0 Lu Shan

During the 19th century, this beautiful area of highland
scenery was developed by Edward Little, a Methodist minister
and property speculator, as a resort area for Europeans. Later
it became a favorite retreat among Chinese politicians;
Chiang Kai-shek had a summer residence here and from 1949
Lu Shan was popular with Mao and his ministers. Today,
despite the summer crowds, Lu Shan remains a refreshing
place for walks among lakes, hills, and waterfalls.

Xunyang Lou, an impressive re-creation of
a Tang-era tavern

9 Jiujiang

80 miles (130 km) N of Nanchang. . Floral Path
* 4,700,000. £ @ n 6 Lufeng Lu, This walk skirts the edge of the western cliffs, giving
(0792) 856 0600. marvelous views over the Jinxiu Valley. The path
leads to the Immortal’s Cave, once inhabited by a
The gateway to Lu Shan, the Daoist monk.
ancient port of Jiujiang, was
used for shipping rice and tea . Dragon’s Head Cliff
and, during the Ming dynasty, Magnificent views combine with the
porcelain from Jingdezhen. sound of the wind in the pine forest and
Badly damaged during the the roaring of waterfalls in the Stone
Taiping insurrection, it was later Gate Ravine.
opened to foreign trade in
1861 and became noted for
its tea bricks.

The older and livelier part of
town lies close to the river,
separated from the industrial
section by two lakes. Yanshui
Ting, the Misty Water Pavilion,
is located on a small island
on Gantang Hu. It was most
recently rebuilt in the Qing
dynasty and contains a
museum showing old photos
of Jiujiang. Nengren Si was
founded in AD 502. Closed
during the Cultural Revolution,
it now houses a flourishing
community of monks.

The Xunyang Lou is a
modern reincarnation of a
Tang-dynasty wooden tavern,
which was the setting for a
raucous scene in the Chinese
classic, The Water Margin
(see pp34–5).

 Nengren Si KEY Jiangjun He
168 Yuliang Nan Lu. Open daily.
& 1 Suspension Bridge
2 Lu Shan Museum, is housed in
P Xunyang Lou Mao’s former villa.
908 Binjiang Lu. Open 8am–7pm
daily. &

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

ZHEJIANG & JIANGXI 259

0 meters Key VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
0 yards
500 Practical Information
Tourist information
Guling, 22 miles (35 km) S of
500 Jiujiang.
Path Open daily. & entry to scenic area
and for each site. 8 - = 0

Transport
@ from Jiujiang Bus Station; mini-
bus from Jiujiang ferry car park

DAJIN LU

Ruqin HENAN LU HEDONG LU . Meilu Villa
Hu Named after his wife Soong Meiling, this is
the former villa of Chiang Kai-shek and one of
U the few places in China that commemorates
NL
IANGSHA X his period of rule.

Lulin People’s Hall
Hu The site of the 1959 Central Committee

Congress during which Peng Dehui
criticized Mao’s Great Leap Forward is

now a museum.

Yuping BOTANICAL
Feng GARDENS

Black Dragon Pool
Five streams plunge over a huge
stone into a pool, which is said to be
inhabited by a dark dragon, although

the water is limpid and clean.

For additional map symbols see back flap

260 CENTRAL CHINA

Porcelain Blue and White Ming porcelain
is seen by some as the epitome
Despite Chinese pottery’s long history, it was not until the of Chinese style. The elegance
Bronze Age (between about 1500 and 400 BC) that special of the designs and the depth of
clays and hotter kilns resulted in a harder, sometimes color are astounding.
glazed stoneware. True porcelain, however, did not appear
until the Sui dynasty. A far finer type of ceramic, true
porcelain is smooth and polished, and produces an almost
crystalline ring when struck; at its most delicate, it is even
translucent. Porcelain became popular in Europe during
the 16th century, and the Portuguese, and later the Dutch
and English, set up a lucrative trade between China and
the rest of the world.

Jingdezhen clay is the key to the quality of the As on a production line, each artisan performs a
porcelain and is a mixture of fine white kaolin single task in the porcelain-making process. The clay
and “petuntse” (a crushed feldspar rock). The is centered on a wheel and thrown into a rough
resulting fine powder is washed, strained shape, sculpted into a finer piece with scrapers, and
through silk, and dried. brushed with water to create a smooth surface.

A cobalt blue underglaze may be added before Firing is a crucial stage in making porcelain –
coating with a clear glaze of limestone ash, the fluctuations in temperature can ruin thousands of
finest petuntse, and water. The glaze absorbs the pieces in one go. The best porcelain is fired inside
blue dye and fuses into the original clay to form a clay “saggars” – cases that protect them from dust
hard glassy porcelain. and sudden variations in heat.

Reign mark starts here and reads top
to bottom, right to left

Rose medallion porcelain was Characters for Emperor Reign marks show
made specially for export. Often Hongzhi the reign name of
these pieces were made to Western the emperor when
the piece was made.
designs in terms of shape and However, the ease
decoration. Sometimes dinner with which they can be
sets displaying a family or even faked renders accurate
a royal crest were produced, dating the task of experts.
and designs were sent from
Europe to be reproduced by
the Chinese.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

ZHEJIANG & JIANGXI 261

Porcelain Timeline One of Jingdezhen’s many pottery shops

Han q Jingdezhen Pottery Factory (Guyao

A key development Cichang) gives demonstrations
during this
period was the of the ancient techniques used
art of glazing.
Simple pots 108 miles (174 km) NE of Nanchang. in the making of porcelain.
began changing * 1,550,000. k £ @ n CITS, 1 The Porcelain Museum (Taoci
Zhushan Xi Lu, (0798) 850 5566.
from everyday Guan) houses a collection of
items to works of art.
beautiful porcelain from the
Tang
For centuries the ceramic capital Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties,
Technical advances during
the Tang dynasty saw the of China, Jingdezhen is still one as well as some of the finer
production of new types of
porcelain, most famously of the country’s major porcelain creations produced since the
the sancai (tri-colored)
pieces illustrating figures producers. Although pottery establishment of the PRC in
from the Silk Road.
kilns were operating here as far 1949. The main porcelain
Song
back as the Han dynasty, it was market is on Jiefang Road.
Beautiful Song porcelain is
characterized by simple the discovery of real porcelain, Porcelain in all shapes and sizes
shapes glazed
in a single, during the Five Dynasties era is sold here, from classical-
rich color.
New shapes (907–79 AD), which period reproductions to
were devel-
oped, as well as depended on locally garden ornaments and
the cracked glazing
technique. found clay rich in sentimental reproduc-

Yuan feldspar, that brought tions of dogs and cats.

Porcelain from the Jingdezhen its pre- For a view across the
Mongol dynasty
absorbed foreign eminence. During the roofs of town, visitors
influences. Cobalt
blue underglaze was Ming dynasty, its can climb the wooden
introduced, and later
perfected during the location near the four-story Longzhu Ge
Ming period.
imperial capital of Detail from (Dragon Pearl Pavilion).
Ming
Nanjing increased its museum entrance
The Ming dynasty was the
era of imperial patronage of importance and it E Ceramic History
Jingdezhen and large-scale
exportation to the West. The became famous for fine porce- Exposition
kilns flourished and the
artisans returned to a richer lain with a blue underglaze. Zhonghua Bei Lu. Tel (0798) 822 1390.
palette of colors and Although the quality of the Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily. &
pictorial design.
porcelain is lower than in the E Porcelain Museum
Qing
past, the main reason for visiting 21 Lianshe Beilu Lu. Tel (0798) 822
The latter part of this dynasty
was often characterized by Jingdezhen is still ceramic 8005. Open 8am–5pm daily. &
overly elaborate design and
poor quality, but the early production. Visiting a factory or

part of the one of the ancient kiln sites will
Qing saw the
production of need to be arranged though
delicate famille
rose porcelain. CITS but there are also several

places of interest that can be

visited independently.

The Ceramic History

Exposition (Taoci Lishi Bolanqu)

is located in a rural setting on

the western edge of town.

Displays of items taken from

ancient kiln sites around

Jingdezhen and of potters at

work effectively make this

museum interactive. It is housed

in an elegant Ming house, a rare

survivor among the many that

would once have graced the The wooden Longzhu Ge, with views across

town. The adjacent Ancient Jingdezhen

262 CENTRAL CHINA

The Long March

During the 1920s the outlawed Communist leaders sought The Red Army – outlawed, harried
refuge from the Kuomintang (KMT) at remote rural bases, and hungry – had to fight battles,
or “soviets,’’ in Sichuan, Hunan, and, in Jiangxi province, at outwit their better equipped
Jinggang Shan, the headquarters run by Mao Zedong and enemy, and cross inhospitable
Zhu De. In October 1934, with the KMT closing in, the Jiangxi terrain in all seasons.
Soviet was forced to break out and join thousands of revolu-
tionaries on a tactical retreat. Covering, largely at night, an 4)"/9*
average of 20 miles (32 km) a day, the Communists marched
5,900 miles (9,500 km) in a year. The march, however, was
not a strategic success and many did not survive it.

7 Crossing the remote,
boggy and freezing Aba
Grasslands brought enor-
mous losses. A subsequent
meeting with rival, Zhang
Guotao, firmly established
Mao’s primacy.

/*/(9*"

Key -BO[IPV :FMMP9XJ B3OJWFS
Long March ("/46 4)""/9*

8 Yan’an was the end point of the 0 km 300
march on 19 October 1935. Mao arrived 0 miles
with 5000 marchers and established the 300
Yan’an Soviet as an independent
communist state. 4*$)6"/ )6#&*
OH[J
:B

$IFOHEV $)0/(2*/(

(6*;)06
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6 Daxue Shan, the Great Snowy Mountains, are ,VONJOH (6"/(9*
some of the highest in the country. Crossing the
passes was the most challenging episode of the Long :6//"/
March, and led to the death, through altitude sickness,
exhaustion, and exposure, of many Red Army soldiers. 4 At Lu Shan Pass,
the Red Army reached the
pass just ahead of the KMT,
deceived their pursuers, and
gained an unexpected victory.

5 The Luding Chain Bridge (see p377) was the 3 Zunyi was taken despite heavy losses in January
only means of crossing the Dadu River. Blocked 1935. Mao emerged from the ensuing conference
by KMT troops who had removed most of the as leader of the Communist Party and commander
bridge’s planks, 22 Red Army soldiers took the of the Red Army; the Soviet-supported general
bridge by crawling along the remaining chains, was expelled.
with the loss of seven men.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

ZHEJIANG & JIANGXI 263

Many prominent Long Marchers The thickly wooded slopes of Jinggang Shan
became China’s future leaders,
including (from left) Bo Gu (Com- w Jinggang Shan Located at about 3,300 ft
munist leader until 1935), Zhou
Enlai, Zhu De, and Mao Zedong. (1,000 m), Ciping was the center

#FJKJOH Ciping, 220 miles (350 km) SW of of the Jinggang Shan revolut-
Nanchang. @ n 2 Tianjie Lu, (0796) ionary base during the 1920s
655 0550. & for most revolutionary and 1930s and is now the site
and scenic sights. ∑ jgstour.com of local government. Its location
at the center of the mountain

range and growing collection

There are two reasons for of hotels make it a good base

visiting Jinggang Shan: its for exploring the area. The

)&/"/ scenery, which has been beauty of the area is a

featured on Chinese startling contrast with

4IBOHIBJ bank notes, and its image as a gritty,

its revolutionary revolutionary strong-

associations. The hold. There are the 33-ft

mountain range, of (100-m) Shuikou water-

which the main peak falls, located in a

is Jinggang Shan, luxuriant valley

+*"/(9* sometimes known surrounded by
$IBOHTIB
)6/"/ as Wuzhi Feng (Five rocks amid bamboo,

(6"/(%0/( Fingers Peak), azaleas and pine
(VBOH[IPV
reaches to 5,200 ft forest. Wulong Tan,

(1,586 m). There are Monument outside a few miles north of

magnificent views, Wulong Tan Ciping, is composed

especially at sunrise, of several limpid

as well as a great variety of pools into which stream a

plants, birds, butterflies and number of rapids and waterfalls.

other insects. A cable car can take you to the

The village of Ciping was top and give you magnificent

destroyed during the civil war views over the whole area,

of the 1930s but was rebuilt whilst for those with the

after 1949 as a sort of shrine to energy, much of the area

the communist struggle and to can be enjoyed on foot.

the Long March in particular.

There are a number of buildings

commemorating the way of life

1 Jinggang Shan was the of the early revolutionaries,
base of the Jiangxi Soviet
whose position was steadily forced here in the late 1920s by
being eroded by advancing
KMT troops. Led by Mao Chiang Kai-shek’s persecution,
Zedong, the Long March started
from here on 16 October 1934. which culminated in a massacre

2 The crossing of the of striking workers in Shanghai
Xiang river was the marchers’
first major battle. Accounted a in 1927. It is possible here to
disaster, huge amounts of equip-
ment were lost in the waters. gain some idea of what life was

like for the revolutionaries, as

they developed their strategy

before the epic walk to Shaanxi.

A short distance away is the

watching post at Huangyang

Jie, where the Red Army repulsed Pearl Pool, one of the five waterfalls

Kuomintang troops in 1928. at Wulong Tan



CENTRAL CHINA 265

HUNAN & HUBEI

Hunan and Hubei are central China’s westernmost provinces. Hubei HUBEI

is dominated by the mighty Yangzi River, and its capital Wuhan is a

great industrial city on the river. The mountainous Three Gorges in HUNAN

western Hubei near Yichang is the site of the world’s largest dam, which

was completed in 2007. The scenic Shennongjia Forest Reserve, home

of the legendary Wild Man, and Wudang Shan, known for its martial arts

school, are spectacular sights definitely worth visiting, although remote and difficult to access.

Hunan’s fertile farmlands lured millions of migrants during the political upheavals in

North China between the 8th and 11th centuries. An important grain producer during

the Ming and Qing dynasties, by the 19th century the population had outgrown the

land, and the ensuing unrest was exploited by the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom Rebellion

(see p428). The region’s poverty also had a great impact on China’s history in the 20th

century. As the birthplace of Mao Zedong, Hunan’s revolutionary credentials are still one

of its principal attractions, both in Changsha, the capital, and in Mao’s birthplace at Shao

Shan. Other popular sights include Dongting Hu, China’s second-largest lake, in the

northeast, the temples at scenic Heng Shan in the south, and the wonderful mountain

scenery of Wulingyuan in the northwest.

Sights at a Glance Historic Sites Nature Reserves & Areas of
2 Shao Shan Natural Beauty
Towns & Cities 0 Shennongjia
Temples & Holy Mountains 5 Wulingyuan pp270–71
1 Changsha 3 Heng Shan
4 Furongzhen q Wudang Shan Dams
8 Jingzhou 9 Yichang
7 Wuhan
6 Yueyang

Shiyan Danjiangkou
Shuiku

Laohekou
Zaoyang

Xiangfan G70 Suizhou
G45
Jingmen G55 Anlu G45Macheng
G4 Ya Xiaogan
G4
Jianshi G50 G4Han Shui Xishui

Enshi Zhicheng Xiantao Huangshi

Liangzi
ngzi Hu
Xianfeng G56
Cili Jinshi
Chongyang
Dongting

Hu
Changde
Yongshun Jiang
Jishou Yuan G56 Yiyang Pingjiang

Zi Shui

Anhua

Huaihua Lianyuan Xiangtan Zhuzhou
Shaoyang Liling
G60 0 km 100

Hongjiang 0 miles 100

Hengyang

G60 G72 Leiyang Key
Expressway
Tongdao Yongzhou National Highway
Railroad
Chenzhou Zixing Provincial border

Daoxian Yizhang

Guilin

Shaoguan

The hanging restaurant near Three Travelers’Cave, Yichang For additional map symbols see back flap

266 CENTRAL CHINA

a certain amount of elasticity. 2 Shao Shan

Amazingly scientists were able

to determine that she died at 50, 48 miles (80 km) SW of Changsha. £
daily from Changsha. @
and was suffering from tuber-
culosis and arthritis. According

to the customs at the time, the

tombs were filled with foods The birthplace of Mao Zedong,

and furnishings to comfort that China’s leader from 1949 until

part of the soul that remains on his death in 1976, Shao Shan is

earth, and a silk banner that really two towns. The newer

mapped the Han belief system. one is near the railway station,

Close by is the pleasantly while the village of Shao Shan

landscaped Martyrs’ Park. Dong, where the “Great

No. 1 Teachers’Training College, Changsha Among the numerous sites Helmsman” spent his early

1 Changsha related to Mao Zedong, the years is 4 miles (6 km) away.

207 miles (333 km) S of Wuhan. * most interesting is the Hunan At the height of the Mao
7,000,000. ~ £ @ n 88, 1 Duan,
Furong Zhong Rd. First Normal College, where he phenomenon during the

An important ancient city, studied from 1913, when he Cultural Revolution, special
Changsha was the capital of the
Chu kingdom until the unifica- was 19, until 1918. Although pilgrimage trains, crowded
tion of China under the Qin in
280 BC. Much later, the city’s he famously failed his art with Red Guards, brought
profile was raised once more
when in 1903 it became a treaty exam, by drawing a almost 8,000 worshipers
port, open to foreign trade.
During the Sino-Japanese war circle and calling it an a day. Shao Shan is still
in 1938, it was damaged by
the Kuomintang. egg, he was declared popular and any

The Hunan Provincial student of the year in buildings connected with
Museum houses many items of
interest, including neolithic 1917. At college, he Mao are now preserved
pottery and bronzes from the
Shang and Zhou eras. While devoted much of his as museums. Mao’s
it is being renovated, there
will be temporary exhibits at time organizing student Family House, where he
the Changsha City Museum
(538 Bayi Rd), though the societies, a useful practice was born in 1893, is
permanent collection is of
greater interest, containing for his future role as leader. typically rural, except
items excavated from three
Han-dynasty tombs at Mao returned as a teacher for its displays of
Mawangdui, to the east of the
city. The first tomb belonged to between 1920 and 1922. memorabilia. Nearby
the wife of the Marquis of Dai,
the second was that of the Visitors can follow a self- lies the sizable Mao
Marquis himself, while the third
contained their son. The guided route through Mao statue, Zedong Memorial
Marquis, Li Cang, became prime
minister in 193 BC, and died in the rebuilt college, which No. 1 Teachers’ Museum and the Mao
186. The tombs contained a
wooden outer coffin, is still active, visiting the Training College Ancestral Temple.
surrounded by a protective layer
of clay and charcoal, within dormitories, the well Overlooking the
which were four other coffins,
lacquered and handsomely where Mao bathed, village is Shao Peak, accessed
painted. The bodies had been
dressed in several layers of silk. and the halls where he held by cable car. About 2 miles
His wife’s body (on display in a
liquid-filled tank) was so well political meetings. (3 km) from the village is
preserved that her skin retained
Dripping Water Cave, where,

E Hunan Provincial Museum & legend has it, Mao pondered
Martyrs’ Park over the Cultural Revolution
in 1966.
50 Dongfeng Rd. Tel (0731) 8451
4630. # closed for renovation until

2015. & ∑ hnmuseum.com P Mao’s Family House & Mao

P Hunan First Normal College Zedong Memorial Museum

356 Shuyuan Rd. Tel (0731) 8822 Shao Shan Chong. Tel (0732) 5568

8210. # daily. ∑ hnfnu.edu.cn 5157. # 8am–5pm daily. &

Stone tablets engraved with Mao’s poems, Shao Peak, Shao Shan

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HUNAN & HUBEI 267

5 Wulingyuan

See pp270–71.

6 Yueyang

90 miles (145 km) N of Changsha.
* 5,400,000. £ g at Chenglingji.
n 25 Yunmeng Rd, (0730) 828 2222.

Situated on the banks of the

Yangzi and the shores of

Dongting Hu, China’s second

Grand gateway of the Zhusheng Si Monastery, Nanyue largest freshwater lake, Yueyang

3 Heng Shan 4 Furongzhen is an important stopping point
for river ferries and trains on the

Beijing to Guangzhou line. Its

85 miles (135 km) S of Changsha. 249 miles (400 km) NW of Changsha. main sight, Yueyang Tower, was
Tel (0734) 567 3377. @ from £ to Mengdonghe, then bus or boat. once part of a Tang-era temple.
Changsha to Nanyue. Open daily. & @ g from Mengdonghe. The current structure, dating
from the Qing era, is an

One of the five holy Daoist Mengdonghe is the jumping- impressive sight, with its glazed

mountains, Heng Shan at 4,232 ft off point to Furongzhen (Wang yellow-tiled roofs overlooking

(1,290 m) is a cluster of wooded Cun), the location of the epony- the lake. Nearby are two

peaks, dotted with temples that mous 1986 film, A Small Town pavilions, Xianmei Ting and

were established some 1,300 Called Hibiscus. Furongzhen Sanzui Ting; the latter was

years ago. The gateway to Heng means Hibiscus Town and the where Lu Dongbin, one of the

Shan is Nanyue, a two-hour bus film was an adaptation of the Taoist Eight Immortals (see

journey from Changsha. It is a novel A Town Called Hibiscus by pp36–7), came to drink wine. To

pleasant little town with two Gu Hua. It was one of the first the south is Cishi Ta, a pagoda

main streets, and a couple of books to show how the political built in 1242 to propitiate flood-

significant temples. Nanyue upheavals of the 1950s and causing demons.

Damiao has been a place of 1960s affected people in rural A 30-minute boat ride from

worship for both Buddhist and China. Furongzhen is an Yueyang is the small island of

Daoists since the early 8th attractive town with stone Junshan Dao, a former Daoist

century AD, although the streets and old wooden build- retreat that is now famous for its

current buildings, modeled on ings. Its Tujia Museum on silver needle tea.

Beijing’s Forbidden City, date Hepan Jie is devoted to the

from the 19th century. The other, culture of the indigenous Tujia P Yueyang Tower

Zhusheng Si, is an 8th-century people. Visitors can also go Dongting Beilu.

Buddhist monastery, rebuilt in rafting near Furongzhen, on the Tel (0730) 831 5588. # 7am–6:30pm

the 18th century. Yuan Jiang River. daily. &

The mountain can be

explored on foot or by minibus,

but it is a 9-mile (15-km) walk to

the top. There is a cable car to

the summit from about halfway.

A number of monasteries and

temples lie along the path that

meanders through lush

countryside before reaching the

Martyrs’ Memorial Hall,

honoring those who died in the

1911 revolution. Next is the

7th-century Xuandu Si, Hunan’s

main Daoist temple. The route

finally leads to Shangfeng Si,

also the minibus terminus. Just

beyond is the summit marked

by Zhurong Gong, a tiny stone

temple. Visitors can stay at a

hotel near the top for views

from the Terrace for Watching

the Sunrise. A river boat at the scenic Junshan Dao (Junshan Island)

268 CENTRAL CHINA

Cult of Mao Mao’s portrayal, not only as a
deity but as a man of the people,
When he became Chairman in 1949, Mao Zedong was was part of the ambiguity of the
already a figure of almost mystical stature, having led the cult. Nonetheless, Mao remains at
Red Army since 1934. He was an ideologue and whilst his the center of the image
impatience at the pace of reform led to decisions that often surrounded by adoring women.
brought disaster, skillful maneuvering by the party meant
that he remained a heroic figurehead. The Cultural
Revolution (see pp70–71) 1966–76, was, at the expense of
millions of lives, a calculated attempt to make Mao a deity.
The years after his death saw a diminution of his status, but
since the 1990s his popularity has revived. Once again Mao
is considered by millions to be weida – Great.

Poster Art
In the 1960s the Chinese
propaganda machine turned
out posters featuring Mao
by the million. He was often
portrayed as a benevolent
avatar, a god come among
the people to transform
their lives.

A Mao study group discusses
Mao’s philosophy in the late
1960s. His thought briefly
became a modern substitute
for the Confucian philosophy
that had dominated Chinese
intellectual life for millennia.

“Celebrate the birth and life of Chairman Mao’s face was always a ruddy red, as
Mao for 10,000 years.” artists were told to avoid grey and to
imbue him with cherub-like youth.

The thoughts of Chairman
Mao were collected in 1961
in a volume, known as the
“Little Red Book,” which was
distributed to all Red Guards.

Pilgrims at Shao Shan, Mao’s
birthplace (see p266), pay their
respects. At the height of the Cultural
Revolution, several trains a day pulled into
Shao Shan to disgorge thousands of fervent
pilgrims. In the 1980s this traffic all but
ceased but was revived again in the 1990s.

HUNAN & HUBEI 269

“Chairman Mao is the red sun in our hearts”, this poster Early poster art was slightly different
asserts. The uppermost characters say “the East is Red,” the in character from later propaganda.
name of a piece of music that became an anthem of the Although this poster asks people to
Cultural Revolution. march forward under the banner of
Mao Zedong, revolutionary Soviet-
Light always radiates endorsed communism, rather than
from behind Mao, just as Maoism, is celebrated on the flags.
a halo might appear
behind a god in a temple.

Mao memorabilia is widely avail-
able in China, although many of the
pieces on sale at markets today
have been produced specifically for
the tourist market.

Since Mao’s
death the

Party has had to
tread a delicate line between
condemnation of his excesses and
praise for his achievements. His
portrait still hangs at the north end of
Tian’an Men Square and his image is
on all Chinese banknotes; perhaps his
posthumous function is as a symbol

of a united China.

Mao Attacked

In 1994 Mao’s private physician, Li Zhisui, wrote The Private

Life of Chairman Mao, in which Mao is portrayed as vain,

cold, and contemptuous of his colleagues and of the

suffering of the Chinese people.

The book was instantly banned by

the Chinese government. At the time

of publication, Li was living in the

United States and so escaped

persecution. The book provides

Domestic shrines with a figure of Mao to some surprising insights into Mao’s
whom family members would address
their revolutionary prayers started habits and opinions. However, many
replacing Daoist and Buddhist shrines
during the 1960s. Mao shrines are still critics, even those unsympathetic to The jacket of Li’s
seen, although the Party disapproves. Mao’s politics, claim that the book is biography
simply opportunistic.

270 CENTRAL CHINA

5 Wulingyuan

Often called Zhangjiajie, this 243-square-mile (391-sq-km) . Xianren Qiao
scenic preserve is a karst landscape (see pp418–19) of The Bridge of the Immortals is a
enormous beauty, with rocky pinnacles rising from a coverlet
of dense sub-tropical vegetation. Wulingyuan covers three spectacular, narrow and unfenced span
natural reserves – Zhangjiajie, Tianzi Shan, and Suoxi Yu –
and contains well over 500 species of tree, including the of rock over a deep chasm.
dawn redwood, which was believed to be extinct until it was
re-identified in 1948. It is also a haven for fauna, including
giant salamanders, rhesus monkeys, and a wide variety of
birds. The park is often cloaked in fog, adding atmosphere but
obscuring most views. Summers are excessively humid.

TIANZI SHAN
ZHEN

. Huang Shi Zhai
At 3,450 ft (1,050 m), Huang Shi Zhai is the
highest area in Wulingyuan. The climb up
the 3,878 steps requires a good two hours;
there is also a cable car if the stairway
sounds too daunting.

ZHANGJIAJIE
NATURE PRESERVE

Jinbian XI

ZHANGJIAJIE
CUN

Kongzhong ZHANGJIAJIE SHI
Tianyuan
The Heavenly Garden KEY
is an isolated outcrop
covered in a mantle of 1 Jin Bian Yan, a sandstone peak
green and surrounded which stands at 1,312 ft (400 m).
by clusters of slender 2 Boat trips on Baofeng Hu’s
pinnacles and pristine waters are included in the
towering peaks. price of admission.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HUNAN & HUBEI 271

Tianzi Ge VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
In the northern part of the preserve, the pinnacle of this hill allows
views of a valley forested with dozens of fine, splinter-like tors. Practical Information
Numerous underground caverns are found throughout the 190 miles (305 km) NW of Chang-
surrounding area. sha. Open daily. n 89 Ziwu
Zhong Rd, Zhangjiajie Shi, (0744)
TIANZI SHAN 829 8777. & valid for 3 days.
NATURE PRESERVE ∑ english.zhangjiajie.gov.cn

Transport
~ at Zhangjiajie Shi (Zhangjiajie
City). £ to Zhangjiajie Shi. @
to Zhangjiajie Shi; 1 hour
minibus to Zhangjiajie Cun
(Zhangjiajie Village)

Key

Cable car

Path

Road

Yubi Feng
The limestone
columns of the
Emperor’s Brushes are
featured on Chinese
stamps and resemble
traditional Chinese
calligraphy brushes.

Gan Xi

SUOXI YU NATURE Suo Xi SUOXIYU CUN
PRESERVE

Baofeng Hu 0 meters 1000
0 yards 1000

Exploring Wulingyuan . Huanglong Dong
Although garishly illuminated, 7-mile (11-km) Yellow
The main entrance is just past Zhangjiajie Cun.
Follow the left path for a four-hour walk that Dragon Cave loses none of its impact. Boat tours drift
includes Huang Shi Zhai. The right path presents
several options, taking you, eventually, away from down its subterranean river.
the crowds. Accommodations are available in
Zhangjiajie Cun, as well as Suoxiyu Cun, which
is a good base for exploring the east and north
of the park. Simple inns are scattered throughout
the reserve.

272 CENTRAL CHINA

7 Wuhan Guan, a Daoist temple with a
pharmacy, where a doctor
An important port on the Yangzi, Hubei’s capital is an dispenses locally collected
amalgamation of three older cities. Wuchang, capital of the herbs. To the south is Hong Ge,
State of Wu (770–221 BC), and Hanyang, founded in the Sui a red-brick building that housed
era (AD 581–618), are ancient settlements, while Hankou was the Former Headquarters of
founded in 1861 when it became a treaty port for foreign the Hubei Military
trade. As a result the city was a center for early Chinese Government (Hong Lou) during
industrialization, when iron and steel works were built here the 1911 uprising, provoked by
in the 19th century. It was also the site of the first uprising of Sun Yat-sen (see p303), Behind
the 1911 Revolution that led to the fall of the Qing dynasty the Pavilion itself is an
and the formation of Republican China. enormous bronze temple bell
which, for a small fee, visitors
may strike. Sun Yat-sen’s statue
stands in front of the building.

P Yangzi Bridge JIANSHE DADAO
This impressive 361-ft (110-m)
long bridge was built in 1957 by
the Communists. Before its
construction, all road and rail
traffic crossed the river by ferry.
A second bridge was built a
short way downriver in 1995.

Ancestral musical instruments at the Hubei Provincial Museum Hankou Train Station Dazhi Road
2 km (1.2 miles)

Wangjiadun East

E Hubei Provincial Museum and visitors can see his living Hankou Bus
156 Donghu Rd. Tel (027) 8679 4127. quarters, conference room, bomb
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. shelter, and swimming pool. Qingnian Rd Station Xunlimen

Located on the shore of Dong P Yellow Crane Pavilion HANGKONG RD Zhongshan JIANGHAN
Hu, this is one of China’s best Wuluo Rd. Open daily. & Park
museums. Among its highlights The Yellow Crane Pavilion on
are items excavated in 1978 She Shan, south of the Yangzi in RD
from the tomb of the Marquis of Wuchang district, is a
Yi, an eminent figure from the reconstruction of a 3rd-century Chongren Youyi Road Jianghan
Warring States period. He died edifice that burned down in Road
in 433 BC and was buried in a 1884. According to legend, it Liji Beilu Road
lacquered coffin, accompanied was built to honor one of the Qiaokou Road
by his concubines, his dog, and Daoist Eight Immortals, who CAAC HANKOUZHONGSHAN DA DAO
thousands of bronze, stone, and paid his tavern bills by drawing WUSHENG ROAD
woodem items. Many of these cranes on the walls. The 164-ft A DA O
are on display, but the most (50-m) high pavilion is a
impressive is the panoply of handsome Qing-style building. Jianghan YA N H E D
bronze bells which produce two It can be climbed for fine views Bridge Han Shui
notes each when struck. across the city. On the eastern
part of the hill is Changchun Gui Shan Guishan
Ferry rides are available to Gongyuan
explore the scenic area around Guqin Tai G U I SHAN ROAD
Dong Hu, with its many Hanyang YINGWU Yangzi
pavilions and gardens. Bus Station DADAOHA N YA NG DA DAO Bridge

Guiyuan CUIWEIHENGHANYANG Zhonghua
Si Road Terminal

ROAD

Ya n g z i

Key to Symbols see back flap

P Mao’s Villa Enormous bronze bell behind the Yellow Wuhan City Center
Donghu Rd. Tel (027) 6888 1888. Open Crane Pavilion
9–11am & 2:30–5:30pm daily. & 1 Hubei Provincial Museum
2 Mao’s Villa
This pleasant villa (Mao Zedong 3 Yellow Crane Pavilion
Bieshu) was Mao’s hideaway 4 Yangzi Bridge
from 1960 to 1974, where he 5 Gui Shan
stayed for long periods during 6 Guiyuan Si
the first years of the Cultural 7 Hankou
Revolution. It is set in the
grounds of the Donghu Hotel,

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HUNAN & HUBEI 273

P Gui Shan VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Wuhan’s industrial quarter of

Hanyang has a few sights of Practical Information

interest, most of which lie on or 500 miles (800 km) W of
around Gui Shan or Turtle Hill. Shanghai. * 10,100,000. n
This was named after a magic 6 Baofeng Rd, (027) 8366 9955.

turtle that defeated a Transport
threatening water demon and k £ Hankou Train Station,
prevented the Han and Yangzi Wuchang Train Station. @ CAAC

rivers from flooding. The Guqin (buses to airport), Hankou Bus

Tai (Lute Terrace) was where the Station, Hanyang Bus Station,

legendary musician, Bo Ya, Wuchang Bus Station. g Yangzi

would come to play his lute. Ferry Terminal.

After the death of his friend, the

woodcutter who could

understand his music, Bo Ya  Guiyuan Si

destroyed his lute and vowed 20 Cuiweiheng Rd. Tel (027) 8484

Daoist priests depicted in a wall painting at never to play again. A couple of 4756. Open 7:30am–6pm daily. &

Changchun Guan tombs survive in the eastern This Buddhist temple in

part of the mountain. Near western Hanyang was

HUANG DAJIE ROAD DAJIEDFAAONG International Airport the tomb of Xiang Jing Yu founded in the early Qing
Jiefang DA DSAHOENGLI JIE 5 km (3 miles) (1895–1928), one of the era (1644–62), although the
Gongyuan first women leaders in current buildings are late
Sanyang Road Communist China, lies that Qing and early Republican.
GONGJIYEFUAANNGROAD Changjiang of a semi-mythical hero It has a few ancient relics
Bridge from a much earlier era – including a Northern Wei
Lu Su, a Wu general from Buddha statue, but is most
YA N J I A N G WUHAN CHANG the Three Kingdoms period. famous for its hall of 500
arhat statues sculpted in
Wuchang Bei
Train Station the 1820s, including a

CHEZHAN D A D AO JIANG

ROAD IANG DADAO Buddha statue, statue of Buddha
Guiyuan Si carved from a single
Changjiang LINJ piece of jade.
EPING
Tunnel DAO P Hankou
H YOU YI DA From 1861, the district of Hankou
Yangzi Ferry
Terminal

Customs House WUCHANG

SHAHU was the site of the former foreign
Sha HuB R I D G E concession. This area has several
Ya n g z i Dong Hu fine examples of European-style
ZHONG BEI ROAD Gongyuan colonial architecture. The best are

DONGHU ROADJiyuqiao

located between the river and

Z HONGSHAN RD Hubei Provincial Zhongshan Dadao, particularly
Museum along Yanjiang Dadao and
Pangxiejia Jianghan Road. The old Customs
Mao’s Villa

Xiaoguishan Dong Hu House looking over the river is a
HONGSHAN ROA D vast Renaissance style building
Yellow Crane Hongshan with a striking gray-stone
Pavilion Square portico and Corinthian capitals.

MINZHU ROAD
JIEFANG ROAD She Shan Changchum
ZHONG NAN RD
Gongyuan Guan

Wuchang Nan Hu
Bus Station

Wuchang
Train Station

JINGZHOU

0 kilometers 1 1
0 miles

Colorful kites on sale on the Yangzi riverfront

274 CENTRAL CHINA

The Three Gorges Dam

The construction of the Three Gorges Dam, at over 600 ft
(180 m) high and more than a mile (2 km) across, was
intended to provide a significant amount of China’s energy,
curb the Yangzi’s tendency to flood, and channel some of the
country’s wealth for long concentrated along the coastal
regions, into China’s heartland. However, creating a 400-mile
(645-km) long reservoir has also meant the relocation of many
thousands of people, the obliteration of important cultural
sites, and long-term environmental damage.

Jingzhou Museum, part of the Taoist
Kaiyuan Temple

8 Jingzhou

Jingzhou Municipality. 130 miles (210
km) W of Wuhan. * 6,600,000. @
4 ~ n 52 Jingdong Rd, (0716)
846 6429.

A worthwhile short stop if Three Gorges Dam seen from the low-water side
cruising the river, the ancient
town of Jingzhou is about 5
miles (8 km) to the west of its
modern counterpart Shashi. The
old town is ringed by walls 20 ft
(7 m) in height, which were
constructed by General Guan Yu
of the State of Shu (AD 221–63).
Within the walls stands the
Jingzhou Museum. This has a
large collection of ancient silk
and fabrics and, more notably,
finds from a Western Han tomb
of a court official called Sui
including his gory but well-
preserved corpse complete
with organs.

9 Yichang

Yichang District. 190 miles (305 km) W Environmental Issues
of Wuhan. @ ~ £ n 52 Jiefang
Rd, (0717) 676 0392. Hundreds of miles downstream, the rapidly growing municipality of

Yichang, which was once a Chongqing has been pumping untreated waste and chemicals into
treaty port for foreign traders,
is now associated with the the Yangzi. With the river no
Gezhou Dam, completed in
1986 and the huge and longer able to flush this
controversial Three Gorges
Dam, completed in 2008. It away, the fear is that it could
is possible to visit the site
of the Three Gorges Dam at all collect in a 400-mile
Sandouping, which lies 24
miles (38 km) upstream. The (645-km) long cesspool.
town is also a starting point
for a visit to Shennongjia Additionally, the reduced
scenic area.
flow of the water could

substantially increase the

silting up of subsidiary

waterways, further harming

the fragile ecosystem and

closing the migration routes

of many fish species and rare Part of the Three Gorges before the water levels

freshwater dolphins. rose 575 ft (175 m)

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HUNAN & HUBEI 275

. Jar Hill VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Observation
Platform Practical Information
This highpoint Sandouping, 32 miles (51 km) W
provides an excellent of Yichang. n CITS, 21 Yunji Rd,
bird’s eye view of the (0717) 622 0848. Visitor Center:
dam as well as a Open daily. &
museum showing the
history of the Transport
construction. @ 4 from Yichang train station
or hire a minibus or taxi for a
couple of hours.

KEY . 5-Level Double Ship Lock
At over a mile long (1600 m) this lock can raise or lower ships a total
1 The Ship Lifting Tower is simply vertical distance of 370 ft (113 m) and is, not surprisingly, the largest
a large and very powerful elevator for lock system in the world. It takes nearly three hours to pass through
ships less than 80-ft (25-m) long – the lock gates.
faster than using the 5-level lock.

2 The Yangzi Sculpture is a large
lump of eroded rock that is said to be
from the Yangzi River.





278 CENTRAL CHINA

Gong temple. Wudang Shan lies

to the south of town, and there

are several ways of reaching it.

A path near the railway station

takes eight hours to reach the

summit at Tianzhu Peak.

Minibuses go about three-

quarters of the way up, from

where it is another two hours

on foot to the top. Other

options are sedan chairs and a

cable car that runs between a

point called Qiongtai and the

summit. Going up by minibus,

visitors first pass the Martial

Arts School and then the Zixiao

Gong (Purple Cloud Palace), an

impressive Ming temple that

Dense virgin forests lining a gorge at Shennongjia has become the busiest in the

0 Shennongjia q Wudang Shan area. Inside the main hall is a
beautiful spiral cupola. From the

minibus terminus, a short

144 miles (230 km) NW of Yichang. ~ 250 miles (400 km) NW of Wuhan. £ diversion leads to the Nanyan
at Hongping, 25 miles (40 km) from from Wuhan or Xiangfan to Wudang Gong temple at the very edge
Songbai. @ from Yichang to entrance Shan town. @ from Shiyan, Xiangfan of the cliff. Nearby is Dragon
at Muyu, then hire a car. n 100 Yiling or Liuliping to Wudang Shan town. & Head Rock that projects
Da Dao, (0717) 690 8026. 8 from horizontally from the edge, and
Yichang tourist office & Forestry Office The many peaks of Wudang is covered in sculpted designs.
Travel Service, Muyu. Shan – the highest reaching The main path goes past Lang
5,289 ft (1,612 m) at Tianzhu Mei Xian Ci, a shrine dedicated

This remote and little-visited (Heavenly Pillar) Peak – have to the monk Zhang Sanfeng.

forest reserve has some been associated with Daoism The path eventually divides into

remarkable scenery. It is covered since the Tang era. Wudang two at Huanglong Dong. Of the

with rare trees and several Shan has also been known for two paths, it is easier to take the

hundred species of plants used its martial arts since the Song- one leading straight on to the

in traditional medicine, samples dynasty monk, Zhang Sanfeng, group of temples at Tianzhu

of which were introduced to the created a style called Wudang Peak. At the summit, the peak is

West by the botanist Ernest boxing from which tai ji quan surmounted by Jindian Gong

Wilson in the early 20th century. later developed. After years of (Golden Hall), built of gilded

It is also home to many of China’s neglect, the many temples here copper and bronze in 1416. It

rarest animals, including the have been refurbished and are has a statue of the Ming

splendid golden monkey. now flourishing. The entry point emperor Zhen Wu, who

Inside the reserve, at Xiaolong is the town of Wudang Shan, retreated to Wudang Shan in

Tan, is a museum dedicated to which has little to offer except the 15th century. The views

the legendary Chinese Wild Man the temple museum of Tai Shan from Tianzhu, of razor-edge cliffs

(ye ren), who is like the Himalayan Miao and the ruins of Yuxu covered in mist, are magnificent.

Yeti and just as hard to find. The

first reported sighting was in 1924.

Walking trails around Xiaolong

Tan lead into the heart of the

reserve, providing an excellent

opportunity to see the rare

golden monkeys, giant salaman-

ders, and golden pheasants.

Some trails follow forest roads,

others meander gently across

meadows, while the crudest

lead to mountain tops. Foreign

visitors can explore the Muyu

area, where peaks reach 10,187

ft (3,105 m). It may be possible

to visit the main town of Song-

bai, but only if accompanied by

a tour guide. The Ming-era Zixiao Gong (Purple Cloud Palace), Wudang Shan

The Yangzi River, winding its way through the Three Gorges

HUNAN & HUBEI 279

Tai Ji Quan (Tai Chi)

Practiced daily by millions of Chinese, tai ji quan, or “Supreme Ultimate Fist,” is a slow-
moving, graceful form of kung fu (see p165). Developed over a thousand years ago by
Daoist recluses and monks, tai ji quan is based on the movements of birds and animals
and the Daoist concept of yin and yang or equal opposites. All of the movements, each
with their own names and prescribed patterns, have elements of yin and yang;
movements contract and expand, sink and rise, move inwards and outwards. The
movements follow one another fluidly and sets can involve anywhere from 12 to 108
moves, and take up to an hour to complete. Tai ji quan does have martial aspects, but is
utilized chiefly to improve the flow of qi (see pp38–9), or vital energy, through the body.
The exercises leave the practitioner feeling revitalized and relaxed.

Zhang Sanfeng, an official, retired in disgust at the Court The Sword set involves
to Wudang Shan. Inspired by a battle between a crane and the use of a weapon
a snake, he came up with the basis for tai ji quan, combin-
ing knowledge of kung fu and Daoist health principles. to aid balance and
concentration. The
simple sword form,
with some 50 move-
ments, is related to
the water element,

whilst the sabre is
related to fire.

Movements Of The Tai Ji Quan Set The front leg slides forward,
Tai ji quan’s numerous schools have different sets and movements. the body sinking (yin) close to
“Whip to one side” is a common move often repeated in a set. the ground in a powerful
position ready to sweep
One arm pushes forward; the upward (yang).
other whips sideways.

Legs are in a classic The trunk sinks,
sturdy tai ji quan while the back
pose, as the weight
shifts forward. remains upright.
Arms are poised
As the body turns to as if to ward
a 45 degree angle, off attack.
the feet turn and
the weight shifts
to the back leg.

Exercising in public squares is a
feature of daily life in China. Early in

the morning crowds of mostly
elderly people perform tai ji quan in

large groups executing the
movements in graceful unison.



THE SOUTH

Introducing the South 282–289
Fujian 290–299
Guangdong & Hainan 300–311
Hong Kong & Macau 312–343

282 THE SOUTH

The South at a Glance Fishermen laboring on the beach at
Meizhou Island
Encompassing the provinces of Fujian, Guangdong,
and Hainan, as well as Macau and Hong Kong, the
South is China’s most familiar region, mainly because
millions of immigrants from the area have moved
overseas, taking their cooking and traditions with
them. Yet, with the exception of Hong Kong and
Guangzhou, the area rarely features on travelers’
itineraries. There is much to enjoy, however, from
the ancient Ming city of Chaozhou and Wuyi Shan’s
superb scenery, to the historic ports of Quanzhou,
Xiamen, and Shantou along the coasts of Guangdong
and Fujian, and the tropical beaches of Hainan.

Changsha

Lianzhou Shaoguan Ganzhou
Yangshan Qujiang Lianping

Bei JiangYingde

Huaiji G U A N G D O N G

Dongnan Heyuan
Qiuling
Xinfengjiang
The active Buddhist temple Nan Putuo Si, Xiamen Shuiku

Nanning i JiangX
Wuzhou
Zhaoqing Guangzhou Huizhou
Luoding Foshan Dongguan

Jiangmen Shenzhen

D a s h a n Yangchun Zhongshan Kowloon
Zhuhai (Jiulong)

Gaozhou Hong Kong
(Xianggang)
Macau
Maoming Yangjiang (Aomen)

Wuchuan Dianbai
Suixi

Zhanjiang 0 km 150
Leizhou 0 miles 150

Xuwen

Qiongzhou Haixia
Haikou
Lingao Key

Yangpu Gang Chengmai Expressway
Main road
Danzhou Minor road
Main railway
Wenchang Other railway
Provincial border
Dongfang HAINAN
Changjiang
Qionghai
Limu Ling Wanning

Jiusuo Lingshui
Sanya

Night-time view of the Hong Kong skyline

INTRODUCING THE SOUTH 283

Pucheng

Nanchang Wuyishan Wenzhou
Shaowu Songxi Zherong

Jianyang Fu’an

Taining Jiufeng ShanJian ’ouNingde
Luoyuan
Shan Futun Xi Lianjiang
Nanping
Min
Jiangle U J I A Jiang
N
F
Sanming

Yong ’an yun Shan Fuzhou

Liancheng Fuqing

Wuyi Daimao Shan Dai Putian

Zhangping

Shanghang Longyan Hui’an Women of the Hui’an minority,
Nan ’an Quanzhou Chongwu
Jinjiang
Tong ’an FUJIAN
GUANGDONG
Meizhou Zhangzhou Xiamen
Dabu & HAINAN
HONG KONG
Xingning Zhangpu & MACAU

Longchuan Yunxiao

Fengshun Chaozhou

Jieyang Chenghai

Puning Shantou
Haifeng Chaoyang

Lufeng

Traffic moving slowly along the bustling Gloucester Road in Getting Around
Wan Chai, Hong Kong
The main airport hubs are at Hong Kong
and Guangzhou. Hong Kong offers
connections to destinations all over the
world, while Guangzhou has direct flights
to cities throughout China and Asia.
Xiamen, Fuzhou, Sanya, and Haikou also
have airports with several domestic flights.
Trains, some air-conditioned, link much
of the region although routes can be
circuitous. The extensive bus network offers
varying degrees of comfort depending
on the destination. There are frequent
ferry services, particularly between Hong
Kong, Macau, and various mainland ports.

For additional map symbols see back flap

284 THE SOUTH

A PORTRAIT OF THE
SOUTH

An enduring maritime tradition has influenced life and culture in the South.
The long coastline along the South China Sea gave the ports of Fujian and
Guangdong easy access to trade routes leading East and West. Trade also
brought the British and Portuguese to the South, ultimately leading to the
colonization of Hong Kong and Macau. Only Hainan Island remained isolated
from the developments that took place across the sea on mainland China.

Guangdong and Fujian are particularly 1400s. Almost a century later, Portuguese
mountainous, and although the mountains vessels ventured up the Pearl River to
are not especially high, they have isolated Guangzhou; an expedition that eventually
the provinces from the political led to the colonization of Macau in 1557.
mainstream of the center and north of the The British soon followed, but their
country. Consequently, the South has nefarious policy of flooding the Chinese
tended to look outwards, across the sea, market with opium led to the two Opium
and over the centuries has been far more Wars (1839–42, 1856–60), after which
inclined than much of China to deal with China ceded Hong Kong and the tip of the
foreigners – either by design or default. Kowloon Peninsula to Britain.

From the 7th century onwards, Arab Over the centuries, waves of Southern
traders introduced Islam to China through Chinese migrated overseas, first to
ports such as Guangzhou (Canton) and Southeast Asia, and later westward as far
Quanzhou, and took silk, porcelain, and tea as North America, as indentured labor.
away with them. It was from these ports Their global presence is one of the reasons
that China launched its overseas naval why visitors consider this the most familiar
expeditons. The Ming emperors sponsored region in China.
the great voyages of Admiral Zheng He, a
Muslim eunuch, who crossed the Indian The Cantonese culinary tradition is
Ocean from Fuzhou to Africa in the early distinct and known the world over. The
local cuisine, however, may encompass

Hong Kong Island’s glittering skyline, seen from Kowloon across Victoria Harbour

INTRODUCING THE SOUTH 285

Strong overseas connections

have meant that in the last 20

years, money has poured back

into the South. China’s more

flexible modern economy as well

as large investments from Hong

Kong have also enhanced the

region’s affluence. Development

has been rapid, propelling the

growth of new cities, such as

Shenzhen, helped by their status

as Special Economic Zones.

Tiled roofs above the harbor at Meizhou Island Inspired by Hong Kong’s

sleek, contemporary

outlandish ingredients not used in overseas architecture, construction has been

restaurants; it is said, with some justification, frantic and the proliferation of

that the Cantonese will eat anything. high-rise buildings has transformed

Teas from the south are exported the skyline of historic cities.

throughout the world and Fujian There are still many hidden gems to

produces some of China’s finest, including explore among the region’s skyscrapers

oolong. The area has cultivated the arts of and new developments. Chief among

tea brewing and tasting, and these are Guangzhou’s Nan Yue

so-called “tea art halls,” Tomb, the rarely visited

where resident brew Chaozhou with its still-

masters demonstrate intact Ming city wall,

techniques associated and one of China’s oldest

with particular varieties A traditional Hakka dwelling mosques in Quanzhou.

of tea, are still found in Some of the finest

Fuzhou, the province’s capital. examples of colonial architecture can be

The South’s largely subtropical climate seen in Macau and on the islet of Gulang

has encouraged a gregarious lifestyle, Yu in Xiamen. Tropical Hainan’s main

which tends to manifest itself in an active, appeal lies in its beaches, but the moun-

open-air streetlife. The local language of tainous center is worth exploring as well.

Cantonese is quite different from Finally, there is Hong Kong, a frenetic,

Mandarin, the national language. The cosmopolitan city that vibrates day and

sound is distinctive, even to the untrained night with an energy that is in keeping

ear. The region’s other major dialect is with its status as a global financial center.

Fujianese (Minnan hua).

The South is home to several ethnic

communities, including the Hakka and the

Li. The Hakka migrated to south and

central China from the north. The

impressive round mansions of the

Fujianese Hakka are a highlight of a trip

to the interior. The Li are Hainan’s original

people, who settled here almost 2,000

years ago and lived a primeval existence

until the 1930s. The Central Highlands

around Tongshi offer glimpses into their

unique culture. Women of the Hui’an minority, Chongwu

286 THE SOUTH

Rice

Rice has long been vital to the Chinese as both a food staple Rice plants, like most other
and a cash crop. So intrinsic to life is the grain that “Chi fan cereals, produce dense flower-
le ma?” (Have you eaten rice today?) is one of the most heads, with the grains tightly
common greetings in China. Rice-growing is thought to packed inside protective husks.
have its origins in southern China around 10,000 BC,
although the flooded-field method that allowed larger
yields and required massive irrigation projects was not
perfected until thousands of years later. Today, rice is grown
throughout much of China and accounts for 35 percent of
the world’s total.

An endless chain of wooden pallets pulls water
from a lower source to the fields by the pedaling
power of laborers. Although much irrigation is now
mechanized, numerous ingenious devices, many
of them ancient technology once fashioned from
bamboo, are still used to water the fields.

Japonica rice Japonica, a sub-species
Glutinous rice of Oryza sativa, is the
most common rice in
China, and is generally
short grained and
slightly sticky. Glutinous
rice, grown in the south-
east, becomes a sticky
mass when cooked. It is
often served wrapped in
bamboo leaves.

Rice Products

The Chinese have found many uses for their pervasive staple.

During the Ming dynasty, builders used water in which

glutinous rice had been cooked as mortar mix to strengthen

defensive walls. Rice straw, the leaves of the plant left after

harvest, is pulped to produce a fine white paper, perfect for

paintings and kites. Husks are used as fertilizer, packing

material, or simply fed to animals. Rice is ground to

produce rice flour which can be rolled and pulled to

create a huge range of noodles. Numerous rice wines

are sold in China, some of them quite palatable, Extracting juice from rice to ferment and make
including sweet Shaoxing, made from glutinous rice.

into jiu (wine or spirits)

INTRODUCING THE SOUTH 287

Water buffalo pull plows, harrows, and other Cultivating Rice
agricultural implements. These sturdy animals thrive
in the waterlogged conditions, produce In much of rural China, rice growing is very
valuable manure, and require less maintenance much a hands-on activity, and traditional
than tractors. methods are still used, especially in hilly country.
The work is labor-intensive, but the two or three
harvests a year that are possible in the south
make the efforts worthwhile.

Rice seedlings
are grown in
special protected
beds. After about
40 days they are
transplanted by
hand to the
paddies.

Terraced Hillsides Planting is tiring, back-breaking work, and in
some areas is now mechanized. Teams of
Vast areas of China are dominated by rice workers wade through the paddy fields
cultivation, and paddy fields have transformed planting the seedlings one by one.
the landscape, especially in the subtropical
regions of the south, where cascades of At harvest time,
terraces clothe many hillsides. Low mudbanks the fields are
trap the water as it trickles down the slopes,
creating an attractive sequence of narrow, drained before
contour-hugging fields which are worked the rice plants are
mainly by hand. Farmers are not completely
reliant on rainfall because the water flow is cut either by
carefully controlled, as is the depth, which is hand-held sickle
typically 6 in (15 cm). Ever resourceful, some
farmers raise edible fish such as grass carp in or by machine.
the paddy waters.
To dry the rice,
mounds of
freshly harvested
grain are raked
out in a thin layer
and left to warm
in the sun.

Winnowing,
tossing or pouring

the rice from a
basket, separates
the dried rice grains
from their husks –
the wind carries

away the chaff.

288 THE SOUTH

Regional Food: The South Bitter melon and
water spinach
The southern school of Chinese cooking, called by the
generic name Cantonese, is centered around Guangzhou,
where the Pearl River delta runs into the South China Sea.
Situated at the mouth of this estuary lies Hong Kong, another
culinary center of China. Fish, of course, plays a major role in this
coastal economy and rice is the dominant food grain. Other
food crops include tea, peanuts, sugar cane, and subtropical
fruits such as bananas, pineapples, oranges, and lychees. Large-
scale emigration from the south has meant that Chinese food
served outside China is likely to be southern Chinese cooking.

supplement the abundance of popular in other provinces
fish. Despite this fecundity, the such as frogs’ legs, turtles, dogs,
size of the population the land snakes, and nearly every kind
has to support means that it of animal there is. Food has
has always struggled to become almost a religion to
provide enough food. There- the Cantonese and the locals
fore the Cantonese also eat less claim that in Guangzhou “there
expensive “delicacies” not is a restaurant every five steps.”

Turnip BBQ pork buns
cake
Lush and colorful vegetables on display in Pork Prawns in
the market dumplings beancurd skin

Guangzhou (Canton)

The epicenter of Chinese Spring rolls Prawn
cuisine, Guangzhou owes its Chicken feet dumplings
culinary primacy to its geogra-
phy. As a port it had a well-off, A selection of dim sum dishes
cosmopolitan merchant class
who could afford expensive
foods. It also has a subtropical
climate and a summer that
lasts for almost six months, with
the rest of the year divided into
autumn and spring: there is no
winter. As a result crops grow
luxuriantly all year round and

Regional Dishes and Specialties

Most people probably associate Cantonese cuisine

with dim sum (meaning “dot on the heart” or

“snack”), delectable, dainty bites of steamed or

fried food: dumplings with prawn or pork fillings,

miniature spareribs, deep-fried spring rolls, paper-

wrapped prawns, chicken feet, or glossy custard-

filled tarts. These snacks are to be eaten during the

Soy-cured bacon and day for lunch with pots of tea, never as dinner.
sausages Other famous specialties are the fish and shellfish
dishes, and roast meats – duck, cha shao (roast

pork), and suckling pig. Key to the southern school of cuisine are its

various sauces. Although such fresh food is often quickly steamed

with a few simple aromatics, sauces such as oyster, hoi sin (sweet soy Steamed Seabass: steamed
with scallions and ginger, and
bean and garlic), mushroom, lemon, black bean and chu hou (soy seasoned with light soy sauce,
rice wine and sesame oil.
bean, garlic and ginger) are also used to add flavor.

INTRODUCING THE SOUTH 289

Chaozhou & Dongjiang Fish drying in a shop in Hong Kong On the Menu

Chaozhou (also known as Hong Kong Seafood with Vegetables A
Teochew) is a richer cuisine popular dish of prawns, squid,
than Cantonese. Because this Although mainly Chinese, and scallops stir-fried with
cuisine specializes in shellfish Hong Kong is a unique city in whatever vegetables are
and seafood, freshness is vital – China: as an international port, available and noodles.
hence the emphasis on buying it has been open to outside
live animals or fish, be it at a influences. So, while most of “White-cut” Chicken A whole
market or restaurant. They like the restaurants are Cantonese, chicken blanched in boiling
to use stocks flavoured with you will also find all the water or stock, then left to cool
fish sauce, hot sauce, or red regional Chinese cuisines here in the liquid under cover for 6–8
rice vinegar. Dongjiang is a alongside those from other hours. Tender and moist.
more rustic and salty cooking – Asian countries and Europe.
soy-cured bacon and air-dried A gastromomic supermarket, Stir-fried Squid with Black
sausages are a specialty – and it Hong Kong doesn’t really have Bean Sauce In fact any seafood
also uses more poultry. This a specialty dish although some such as crab, lobster, or prawns
cooking is also sometimes claim that “smelly beancurd” (a may be substituted for the squid.
known as Hakka, meaning pungent type of fermented This can also be made with
“guest people,” which refers to tofu) fulfils that role. Hong chilies for a more spicy alternative.
the immigrants from northern Kong is a 24-hour city and, all
China who settled in the day every day, all the food Eight-treasure Stuffed
places, from the humble street Beancurd The stuffing is pork
Dried vegetable and spices stall stands to the luxury and prawn – vegetarians should
banqueting halls, are filled stick with the Eight-treasure
south some time after the with people eating. The story Buddha’s Special (see p186–7).
invasion by Mongols in the goes that you could visit a
13th century. Later there were different restaurant each day Steamed Chicken with Dried
other large-scale migrations for a year, and never eat the Mushrooms Chicken pieces
overseas, one of the reasons same dish twice. steamed with Chinese
why most Chinese restaurants mushrooms – simple but great.
in the West serve only southern
Chinese (Cantonese) food.

Lobster with Ginger & Oyster Sauce Beef: stir-fried Roast Meats: choice cuts of
Scallions: lobster braised with beef with mushrooms and suckling pig, duck, pork, and
aromatics and served on a bed vegetables, all cut to the same chicken served cold with tasty
of soft noodles. size, in oyster sauce. dipping sauces.



THE SOUTH 291

FUJIAN

The sea and mountains form the essential features of the province
of Fujian. Its major cities thrive as coastal ports, while inland
there is the spectacular, rugged beauty of Wuyi Shan.

Fujian’s historical importance dates back almost as far as the
Warring States period (475–221 BC), when the Yue people,
defeated by the State of Chu (today’s Hubei and Hunan),
migrated southwards to settle in this part of China and
Vietnam. Those who came to what is now Fujian were called Min Yue, later known as the
Min people. Even today the Fujianese are sometimes referred to as Min and the southern
Fujian language as Minnan Hua. The native people who preceded them are thus called the
Ancient Min. Very little survives from this period, apart from the mysterious 3,000-year-old
boat-shaped coffins, found lodged high above the river in the Wuyi Mountains. The main
attractions are strung along the busy coastline and include the historic ports of Xiamen
and Quanzhou, as well as Fuzhou, the capital of Fujian, which was a major maritime center
for more than 1,000 years. Other attractions are the historic stone town of Chongwu, and
the small island of Meizhou, birthplace of the important Goddess of the Sea. Inland,
Fujian’s hinterland is wild and unspoilt enough to protect the last remaining South China
tigers. It is also the home of the Hakka people, whose traditional dwellings can be seen at
the rural settlements around Yongding (see p296).

Sights at a Glance

Towns & Cities Yanshan
1 Xiamen Pucheng
2 Quanzhou
3 Chongwu G25 Songxi Fuding
5 Fuzhou G3 G3 Zherong
Jianyang 302
Areas of Natural Beauty 202
6 Wuyi Shan Shaowu G15Jian’ouFu’an
Taining
Islands
4 Meizhou Island Jiangle

Ningde G15

Nanping

Sanming G70 Jiulong Jiang Min Jian g Luoyuan
G76 Lianjiang
G72 G3
Matsu Tao
Liancheng Yong’an
Fuqing
G25 G72

Putian Haitan Dao

Zhangping Nanri Dao

ShanghangG25 Longyan Nan’an Hui’an Key
Yongding Tong’an Jinjiang Expressway
G76 National Highway
75 Railroad
75 Zhangzhou 324 Chinmen Disputed border
Zhangpu G15 Tao Provincial border

0 km Yunxiao South
0 miles China Sea
Dongshan
Chenghai Dao

Traditional Fujian tulou (earthen dwellings) in a Hakka village For additional map symbols see back flap

292 THE SOUTH

1 Xiamen

An attractive city with a bustling nautical atmosphere, Cannons guard the ramparts
Xiamen was known as Amoy in the 19th century. It was first at Huli Shan Fort
settled in the Song dynasty (960–1279 AD) but did not
become a significant port until the Ming dynasty. It also manufacturer in 1891. Almost
served as an important stronghold against the Manchus 46-ft (14-m) long and weighing
when they invaded in the 17th century. The resistance was led 49 tons (50,000 kg), it had a
by the legendary pirate and Ming loyalist Zheng Chenggong, firing range of 6 miles (10 km).
also known as Koxinga, who is commemorated in the city. Taiwan’s islands are visible from
Xiamen became an early treaty port in the 19th century, when the ramparts – a fascination for
the foreign community established itself on Gulangyu Island. locals, who were forbidden
The city was also declared one of China’s first Special entry to the site until 1984.
Economic Zones in the 1980s.

President Richard Nixon. A bullet-
scarred rock marks the spot
where Koxinga killed his cousin.

Colorful rooftop dragon, Nan Putuo Si E Overseas Chinese Museum P Jimei School Village
493 Siming Nan Lu. Tel (0592) 208 5345. Open 9am–4:30pm Tue–Sun. &
 Nan Putuo Si Open 9:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sun. & Located 9 miles (15 km) north of
515 Siming Nan Lu. Tel (0592) 208 the city, Jimei School Village was
7282. Open 5am–6pm daily. & In this museum, the first section founded by the philanthropist
This busy temple was founded focuses on the story of Fujianese Tan Kah Kee (Chen Jiageng) in
in the Tang era in the extravagant emigration, using photographs, 1913. A successful Singapore
southern style (see p306). Its paintings, and mementoes. The businessman, he returned to
three halls hold a wealth of second houses bronzes, pottery, China in 1950 and held various
Buddhist statuary. The Heavenly and artworks once owned by government posts. Built in
King Hall has an image of Wei non-resident Chinese. The bronze Chinese-Gothic style, the college
Tuo, Protector of Buddhist collection spans the period from is set in a beautiful park filled with
Doctrine, who holds a stick point- the Shang (16th century BC) to pagodas and close to the sea. Tan
ing down to signify that the the Republican era. The final Kah Kee’s former residence and
temple offers lodging to pilgrims. section covers the environment a small museum are also here.
and natural world. The center-
 Huxiyan piece is the 50-ft (15-m) long P Gulangyu Island
A quaint temple lies high on a skeleton of a sei whale. Xiamen Seaworld Tel (0592) 206
rocky outcrop at Huxiyan (Tiger 7668. Open 8am–6pm. & Shuz-
Stream Rock). Another temple, P Huli Shan Paotai huang Garden: Open daily. & Sun-
Bailu Dong (White Deer Cave), is Daxue Lu. Open daily. & light Rock: Open daily. & Koxinga
even higher up the hill. Built in Situated in the Huli Shan Fort Memorial Hall: Open 8am–5:30pm.
the Ming era, its main draw is along the coast, this huge
the fine view across the city. cannon was made for the Qing The tranquil island of Gulangyu
government by a German lies only a ten-minute boat ride

Y Wanshi Botanical Garden Gulangyu Island’s tiny streets and elegant colonial houses
25 Huyuan Lu. Tel (0592) 203 8471.
Open 6:30am–6pm daily. &

This large scenic area houses over
5,300 species of plants, especially
from South China and Southeast
Asia. These include eucalyptus,
bamboo, and a redwood tree
planted by the former US

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

FUJIAN 293

from Xiamen, with attractive Statue of the legendary rebel commander, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
buildings, and no traffic apart Koxinga, Gulangyu
from battery-powered buggies. Practical Information
The island first became famous rebel. Koxinga and 155 miles (250 km) SW of
important in 1842 after the his fleet held out against the Fuzhou. * 3,500,000.
signing of the treaty of Nanking, encroaching Manchus for years. n 78 Huajian Building,
when the resident He is also credited with ousting Xinhua Lu, (0592) 204 6847.
representatives of the foreign the Dutch from Taiwan. Farther
powers established themselves south along the coast is Transport
here. It soon grew into a Shuzhuang Garden. Built in k £ @ Hubin Nan Lu Bus
European-style town with 1931 as a private villa, the Station, Xiahe Lu Bus Station,
churches, consulates, and garden opened to the public in Songbo Bus Station.
spacious villas. In 1903, it was 1955. Today visitors are enticed g to Gulangyu Island
designated an International by its numerous tropical plants from the ferry terminal near
Settlement for Europeans and and flowers, as well as its complex Lujiang Hotel.
Japanese, complete with a of traditional Chinese gardens.
municipal council and Sikh Adjacent to the gardens is the
police force, and it retained this attractive, but usually crowded
status until the end of World Gangzaihou Beach. Close by
War II. The island still retains an to its north is Sunlight Rock,
atmosphere reminiscent of the island’s highest point that
Southern Europe. can easily be reached by cable
car. At the foot of the rock is
Spread over nearly one square the Koxinga Memorial Hall,
mile (2.5 sq km), Gulangyu which houses a handful of
Island is very pleasant to explore Koxinga’s personal possessions,
on foot, with its tiny streets and such as his jade belt and parts
elegant houses, fronted by of his robe, as well as other
pretty flower gardens. Close to historical items.
the ferry terminal is Xiamen
Seaworld, which houses an Farther toward the south-
interesting collection of sharks, western coast is Yingxiong
seals, dolphins, penguins, and Shan, with an unusual open-air
tropical fish. To the southeast is aviary at the top of the building.
the Statue of Koxinga, which It is filled with colorful parrots,
commemorates Xiamen’s egrets, and tropical pigeons.

Xiamen City Center & 0 meters 800
Gulangyu Island
0 yards 800
1 Nan Putuo Si
2 Huxiyan HUBIN XI L U Songbo Jimei School
3 Wanshi Botanical Garden Bus Station Village
4 Overseas Chinese Museum 2 km (1.2 mile)
5 Xiamen Seaworld Airport
6 Statue of Koxinga Hubin Nan Road 10 km (6 miles)
7 Shuzhuang Garden Bus Station
8 Gangzaihou Beach Train Station
9 Sunlight Rock X I A H E R O A D 2 km (1.2 mile) 3 km (2 miles)
0 Koxinga Memorial Hall
q Yingxiong Shan Zhongshan Bus Station
Park 3 km (2 miles)

AD
JIS H AN RO A
B I S HAN ROA D LU DATONG ROA D G O N GYUAN NAN ROAD YUA
ZHENHAI ROAD
WENAV E .ZHONGSHAN ROADRevolutionary
N ROJIAN GMartyrs' Memorial
Seaside
Lu Jiang Building HUYUAN ROAD Wanshi
SIMING NAN R OAD Botanical
Gardens

NEICU O ' AOR O AD Heping
Ferry Terminal

Huxiyan

Xiamen TUNNEL
Sea World

GULANGY’U Ganlu Si
Bishan Si
ISLAND
Koxinga

D Memorial Hall
G
U S HENG ROA Statue of DAXUE ROADOverseas
Koxinga YAN W U BRIDGE Chinese
Sunlight Rock Museum

Yingxiong Gangzaihou Huli Shan Nan Putuo Si
Shan Beach Paotai
Xiamen
Key to Symbols see back flap Shuzhuang University
Garden





296 THE SOUTH

Earthen Dwellings of Yongding

The Hakka people were driven south from the Yellow River plains by war in the late Tang
and early Song dynasties. It is perhaps due to their past experiences of persecution, and
to their presence in a new land (their official minority name is Kejia, which means “guest
people”) that they adopted a fortress-like style of rammed earth buildings called tulou.
Capable of housing several hundred people, these round or square buildings are
constructed around a courtyard, containing a maze of storage sheds and public meeting
rooms. Hukeng is one of the more accessible towns in the Yongding area with several
Hakka dwellings. The train from Xiamen to Longyan takes 1 hour (the bus takes 4 hours)
after which it is a 2 hour bus ride to Hukeng.

Numerous tulou are located in the countryside
surrounding Yongding. Although the round houses are
the most celebrated, other styles are found in the vicinity:
massive square dwellings similar in scale to the round
houses and smaller rammed-earth residences facing
onto a central courtyard.

Grain storage Thick fire walls divide
the building into eight
segments, echoing the
Daoist octagonal symbol,
the bagua (see pp38–9).

Living quarters

Outward-facing An ancestral hall at the center of
windows are small the inner buildings may be used for
and trapezoidal ceremonies, such as weddings.
and only located in
the upper stories The lower level is dedicated to
for security. communal Hakka life. Outdoor
sculleries for washing and food
Outer walls are thick preparation are located before the
for defense, often as
wide as 5 feet (1.5 m) at kitchens and dining rooms.

the base, tapering
towards the top.

An enchanting view of Nine Twists River, with Wuyi Shan in the background

FUJIAN 297

Domain of Death. On each side bastion against pirates. As part

of the halls are two ancient of its defense, the granite

pagodas with carvings. houses had flat roofs, making

North of Kaiyuan Si is the them almost invisible from

Qingyuan Shan scenic area beyond the forbidding 22-foot

with the enormous Laojun Yan, (6.6-m) high boundary wall.

a Song-dynasty sculpture of the The main inhabitants are the

Daoist Laozi (see p37). Hui’an people, whose women

Northeast of the city center wear distinctive cropped blue

lies the Quanzhou Maritime tops and wide black trousers.

Museum. One of its highlights Fishing and stone carving are

is a Song trading vessel dating the main industries today, but

to 1274. Found in 1973, it was the walls and old streets of

made of cedar wood and would Chongwu’s fortress days still

Entrance to Qingjing Mosque, one of China’s have had sails of bamboo and make a striking impression.
oldest extant mosques
hemp. At that time, such ships
2 Quanzhou
traveled to Arabia, Africa, and 4 Meizhou Island
62 miles (100 km) N of Xiamen. * Asia, exporting porcelain and
8,200,000. ~ £ @ n Fengze Jie,
(0595) 2217 7719. silks and importing spices, ivory,

Located on the Jin Jiang, and glass. The museum also 35 miles (56 km) NE of Quanzhou.
Quanzhou was China’s principal has stone carvings relating @ from Putian to Wenjia, then ferry.
port during the Song and Yuan
dynasties. The city’s trade with to Nestorian Christianity
India and elsewhere resulted in
a permanent community of and to the Arab presence For the Fujianese, this island
foreign residents. It was known
to Arab geographers as Zaitun, in the city. near Putian is associated
from which the word “satin” is
derived. Although Quanzhou’s with Mazu, Goddess of the
importance declined during the
Ming dynasty, the town still offers U Qingjing Mosque Sea and Protector of Sailors
insights into its maritime past.
108–112 Tumen Jie. Tel (0595) (see p155). Mazu is the
Currently roofless, the
Qingjing Mosque was first built 2219 3553. Open daily. & deification of a
in 1009, with extensive repairs in
1309, 1350, and 1609. Unlike E Kaiyuan Si 10th-century girl,
other mosques in southern China 176 Xi Jie. Tel (0595) 2238 whose powers
which follow the traditional 3285. Open daily. & enabled her to make
Chinese architectural style, this
one is an elegant stone structure E Maritime Museum Statue of Mazu, maritime predictions,
with an obvious Arabian 425 Donghu Jie. Tel (0595) Meizhou Island and her birthday is the
influence. The surviving gate is 2210 0561. Open daily.
supposedly modeled on a island’s main festival,
mosque in medieval Damascus. celebrated on the 23rd day of
Its museum details the port’s
significance as a trade center. the third lunar month.

In the north of the city, the 3 Chongwu Numerous temples to the
Kaiyuan Si was built in AD 686 goddess dot the island, all the
and called Lianhua Si (Lotus
Temple), after a lotus way up the hillside where her
miraculously grew on a mulberry
bush that still exists to the west 20 miles (32 km) E of Quanzhou. @ statue proudly stands on the
of the Great Hall. In the Song from Quanzhou to Hui’an, then summit. The main temple,
period, 1,000 monks worshiped minibus to Chongwu. Mazu Miao, is a short walk
here. Among the temple’s three uphill from the pier. Rebuilt
halls, the Sweet Dew Vinaya Hall
has a splendid ceiling and a many times, it now resembles
throne on which sits Bodhisattva
Ksitigarbha, Guardian of the The Chongwu Peninsula’s Beijing’s Forbidden City. Due to

importance as a defensive the effort involved in getting

stronghold was bolstered by the here, it may be worthwhile

construction of the stone town staying overnight in one of the

of Chongwu in 1387, as a island’s numerous hotels.

Flat-roofed houses below the level of the wall, Chongwu

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

298 THE SOUTH

6 Wuyi Shan

144 miles (230 km) NW of Fuzhou. ~
£ to Wuyi Shan City (Wuyi Shan Shi),
then bus 6 to park. n Shangu Jie
Guolu Da Lou, (0599) 525 0376.
∑ wbr.cn

Magical Wuyi Shan, a hilly

area renowned for its oolong

tea, offers some of the most

stunning scenery in southern

China. Its sheer, mist-shrouded

sandstone mountains, known

as the Thirty-six Peaks, are

threaded by the Jiuqu Jiang

and covered in lush

vegetation. First visited by the

Han emperor Wudi (r.141–87

BC), Wuyi Shan came to be

regarded as a sacred place by

subsequent emperors.

The best way to enjoy the

landscape is to take a raft along

the river, as it meanders through

gorges known collectively as Jiu

European-style architecture on Zhongzhou Island, Fuzhou Qu Xi (Nine Bend Creek). Above

5 Fuzhou the fourth bend, mysterious
its northwest lies Xi Hu Gongyuan 3,000-year-old coffins are

(West Lake Park), where the lodged high in the cliffs. Made

155 miles (250 km) N of Xiamen. * Fujian Museum contains a of nanmu (cedar), they are
7,120,000. k £ @ n 121 Dong 3,500-year-old boat coffin. about 16 ft (5 m) long; each
Jie, (0591) 8711 9928. contains a single individual
Cang Shan, south of the river, wrapped in silk and hemp.
was once the site of the Foreign

Concession Area. Zhongzhou How they got here, however,

With its scenic location on the Island (in the middle of the river) remains a mystery.

Min Jiang, Fujian’s capital was a is a development with foreign Several trails lead to the

major maritime port for over restaurants. About 6 miles (10 km) summits. The table-top shaped

1,000 years. It was the center of east of the city is Gu Shan, with Da Wang Feng is the most

a lucrative trade first in tea and wooded walks and the restored difficult, while an easier climb is

sugar, and later in cotton, lacquer, Yongquan Si, built in AD 908. Tianyou Shan, the traditional

and ceramics. When the explorer spot from where to watch the

Marco Polo visited Fuzhou in E Fujian Museum sunrise. The highest peak is

the 13th century, he recorded 96 Hutou Jie. Tel (0591) 8375 7627. Sanyang Feng at 2,356 ft (718

that the city was garrisoned by Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. m). A path also leads to the

imperial troops. The city still has E Lin Zexu Memorial Hall Shuilian Dong, with a teahouse
large numbers of troops due to 16 Aomen Lu. Open daily. next to a waterfall.
its proximity to Taiwan.

Wuyi Square, with its statue Lacquerware – a Chinese Craft
of Mao Zedong, marks the city

center. Just north is the 10th- Made from the sap of the “lac” tree (Rhus

century Bai Ta (White Pagoda), verniciflua), lacquer was used long before the

while to the west is Wu Ta, a Han dynasty as a timber preservative – it

black granite pagoda from the hardens easily, even in damp conditions. It was A lacquered screen
same era. North of Wu Ta, the later used in making plates and cups by
Lin Zexu Memorial Hall com- applying layers of sap on wood or cloth, and
memorates Lin Zexu, a Qing- painting the final layer. The modern craft, which
dynasty official who destroyed appeared in the Yuan dynasty, uses the same
an opium shipment in protest at basic method of applying layers on a wooden
the British trade, an act that led base, but before the lacquer completely
to the First Opium War (see p73). hardens, it is deeply and intricately carved.
Farther north is the Three Lanes The surface is then inlaid with gold, silver, or
and Seven Alleys area of well- tortoiseshell, and usually painted red.

preserved traditional buildings. To

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85