DK Eyewitness Travel Guide_ China

FUJIAN 299

The Story of Tea

Tea (cha) is associated with China more than with any other country. Its legendary
origins in China date back over 5,000 years although some believe that it was introduced
from India about 1,800 years ago. At first it was drunk as a tonic; now it is simply an
indispensable part of daily life for almost all Chinese. It is widely grown throughout the
warmer and wetter southern areas of China, particularly in Fujian, Yunnan, and Zhejiang.
Although tea comes in many forms, all tea comes from the same species, Camellia
sinensis. The most common Chinese teas – green, black, and oolong – have differing
appearance and taste due to the process of fermentation, although the flavor of the
tea does vary depending on where it is grown, and whether other ingredients have
been added such as chrysanthemums in huacha. Tea is always drunk clear, never with
milk or lemon. Sugar is added only in the north western Muslim areas, while the
Tibetans drink theirs with butter.

Shen Nong was the mythological
emperor who discovered tea,

according to Chinese lore. A wise
ruler, he pronounced that all

drinking water should be
boiled. One day, tea leaves
fell from a tree into a pot of
boiling water and the

resulting brew delighted him.

By the Tang dynasty, tea was drunk
throughout the empire. Before the 8th
century, tea merchants commissioned Lu
Yu to explain the advantages of the drink.
He produced the Cha Jing, a compendium
of tea, which systemized its production
and traditions.

The tea trade was a key element in Britain’s interest in
China. The Portuguese were the first Europeans to enjoy
tea, and the Dutch the first Europeans to deal in tea
commercially, but it was the British who became the
greatest tea traders as the fashion for tea spread from
Holland to England in the late 17th century.

Upscale tea shops Tea plantations, many of them
abound in the larger terraced, cover the hillsides of the
southern interior. Up to five harvests
city centers. Highly can take place in a year. Picking
prized specialty teas is still done mostly by hand – an
such as the Fujianese experienced picker can harvest 70 lb
oolong tie guanyin can (32 kg) in a day – but mechanical
methods are becoming common.
be purchased and
sometimes sampled.



THE SOUTH 301

GUANGDONG & HAINAN

Located at the southernmost tip of continental China are the

province of Guangdong and the island of Hainan, just off its coast

in the South China Sea. Guangdong’s capital, the great city and

port of Guangzhou (Canton), stands on one of China’s longest

rivers, the Pearl (Zhu Jiang), while Haikou, the capital of Hainan, GUANGDONG

is located on the island’s north coast, about 30 miles (50 km)

to the south of the mainland.

Guangdong is perhaps the most familiar part of China,

since a large proportion of expatriates around the world are HAINAN
of Cantonese origin. The province also lies very close to Hong

Kong, whose inhabitants are mostly Cantonese. Given its long-

standing contacts with the outside world, it is not surprising that Guangdong was only

fully integrated into China in the 12th century, when large numbers of Han settlers migrated

here from the north. Today, it is a key area of China’s economic development, most evident

in Guangzhou and the cities of Shenzhen and Zhuhai. Despite the recent development,

there are several places of historical interest, as well as some beautiful inland countryside,

which are worth visiting.

Formerly administered as part of Guangdong, the tropical island of Hainan is now a

separate province. A place of exile for centuries, its superb beaches on the southern coast

have been developed as thriving tourist resorts. There are still vestiges of the indigenous

Li culture to seek out, and some wild mountains to explore at the island’s center.

Sights at a Glance

Towns & Cities

1 Shantou Lianzhou
2 Chaozhou
3 Shenzhen
4 Guangzhou
6 Foshan

Historic Sites Yangshan Bei Jia n g Lianping Meizhou
5 Cuiheng Huaiji Xingning
Temples Hezhou
G78
Yingde G35
Jieyang
8 Feilai & Feixia G55 G4 Heyuan
Areas of Natural Beauty WuzhouG15 Lufeng G15
Fengkai

7 Zhaoqing G80 Huizhou
9 Shaoguan Haifeng
Luoding
Islands Jiangmen

0 Hainan Island 207 Hong Kong
Macau
G75 Maoming G15

Yangjiang

Leizhou Wuchuan South
Zhanjiang China Sea
Gulf of
Tongking Xuwen Key
Haikou
Lingao Expressway
Wenchang National Highway
G98 Minor road
Railroad
Danzhou Provincial border

Wuzhi Qionghai 0 km 100
Shan City 0 miles
G98 100
Jiusuo
Lingshui
Sanya

Night view of Guangzhou, dominated by the Guangzhou Tower For additional map symbols see back flap

302 THE SOUTH

downstream is the renovated
Ming-dynasty pagoda
Fenghuang Ta.

 Kaiyuan Si
Kaiyuan Lu. Open daily. &

3 Shenzhen

The dramatic Shipaotai Gongyuan fortress and moat, Shantou 85 miles (135 km) SE of Guangzhou.
* 10,500,000. k £ @ g from
1 Shantou 100,000 people were massacred Hong Kong & Macau. n Chuanbu Lu,
Luohu, (0755) 8247 7050.
for opposing the Manchu
Shenzhen was one of the first
260 miles (420 km) E of Guangzhou. regime. Later, during the 19th towns to become a Special
* 5,300,000. ~ £ @ n century, terrible famines and Economic Zone as part of Deng
Jincheng Lu, (0754) 8897 2455. poverty led to mass emigration. Xiaoping’s economic reforms of
the late 1980s. SEZ status
Today, the remains of the transformed this tiny village
bordering Hong Kong into a
23-ft (7-m) high Ming City booming metropolis in just a
few years. Today, it is an
This city was originally a fishing Walls run along the banks of important, although rather
soulless, business center and
village, whose strategic location the Han Jiang, defining the transport hub. On its western
outskirts are a host of strange
on the Han Jiang estuary was eastern boundary of the old theme parks. Splendid China
and Window on the World have
exploited by foreign traders city center. Extending up to scale models of famous
monuments such as the Eiffel
from 1858. Known then as Huangcheng Lu in the west, the Tower in Paris and the Great Wall,
as well as plenty of souvenir
Swatow, it soon became old city is Chaozhou’s most shops. The Folk Culture Village
displays China’s folk traditions,
a major center for trade. fascinating quarter, where and has paintings, pavilions, and
shows of traditional dances. East
In 1980, it was declared its historic past is visible of Shenzhen, at Shatoujiao, Citic
Minsk World displays a rusting
a Special Economic on streets such as Soviet aircraft carrier, complete
with aircraft.
Zone and today it is Zhongshan Lu and
 Shenzhen Theme Parks
essentially a modern Jiadi Xiang with its Guangshen Expressway, Shenzhen
Bay. Open daily. & Citic Minsk World:
city. The old quarter well-preserved Qing- Open daily. &

still has a few sights dynasty architecture.

of interest such as To the north of Jiadi

the restored 1879 Xiang is Kaiyuan Si,

Tianhou Gong, a an active Buddhist

temple with vibrant temple founded in

carvings. Nearby Guangji Men, Chaozhou AD 738, with pretty

along Anping Lu are courtyards and

the remains of old colonial several colorful halls, one of

houses and warehouses. East of which has a gorgeous vaulted

Anping Lu at the waterfront is ceiling. The grand Guangji Men

Shipaotai Gongyuan, a fortified along the city wall has steps

gun emplacement that was leading up to a trail along the

built in the 1870s. top of the wall. Across the river

is the 10th-century temple

P Shipaotai Gongyuan Hanwen Gong Ci, and

Haibin Lu. Tel (0754) 8854 3120.

Open 7:30am–6pm daily.

 Tianhou Gong
Shengping Lu. Tel (0754) 8845 4097.
Open 7am–5:30pm daily. &

2 Chaozhou

275 miles (440 km) E of Guangzhou. Aircraft on the Russian carrier at Minsk World, Shenzhen
* 2,600,000. £ @

This ancient city was the seat of
a highly cultured civilization
during the Ming dynasty. Its
fortunes declined rapidly in the
17th century, when almost

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

GUANGDONG & HAINAN 303

Sun Yat-sen

For many, Sun Yat-sen, who planned the overthrow of the last Chinese dynasty and the
establishment of a republic, is the father of modern China. Born in Guangdong in 1866,
he studied medicine and was greatly influenced by the leader of the Taiping Rebellion,
and fellow Cantonese, Hong Xiuquan (see p428). A failed uprising in Canton in 1895
forced him abroad, where he spent fifteen years raising money in support of his cause
(in London he was abducted and held in the Chinese legation). Abroad when the Qing
dynasty fell in 1911, he was made president of the new republic in 1912. Power struggles
soon forced him from office. He died in 1925 before he was able to establish an
independent government, with the aim of uniting the country.

“The World Belongs to All” is a slogan Sun Yat-sen
reflecting Sun’s democratic notions: the working in the office
right to vote, the right to recall, and the of his Guangzhou
powers of legislation and amendment. headquarters, from
where he strove to
create the circum-
stances that would
lead to a democratic
and united China.

Chiang Kai-shek Discussing the organization of a new govern- Seen here as
(standing), who also ment in 1911, before Sun Yat-sen (second from left) Generalissimo in
married a Soong became president. He then installed Yuan Shikai in 1922, Sun Yat-sen
sister (see p204), used his own place, who declared himself emperor in established a military
Sun’s theories of 1913, plunging China back into civil war. government in
political tutelage to Guangzhou, the
justify military base of the Nation-
dictatorship. alist Revolution.

On National Day portraits of Sun Yat-sen
are brandished together with those of
Marx and Engels in Tian’an Men Square.
Sun Yat-sen, despite his Kuomintang
connections and his antipathy to class
war, is seen as a revolutionary who paved
the way for communism.

304 THE SOUTH

4 Guangzhou 5 Sacred Heart Church
56 Yide Lu. q Haizhu Square.
Guangdong’s capital, known as Canton to its 19th-century Open 2–4pm Sun for services.
foreign residents, is an ancient and significant port. During the
Tang dynasty, the city’s trade links across Asia gave it a sizable A Gothic-style Roman Catholic
Muslim community. Later, Western merchants made their first church, the Sacred Heart
contact with China through this port. Today, Guangzhou is Church (Shi Shi Jiaotang) was
an affluent, bustling city, with a handful of interesting sights built by the French between
including the 2,000-year-old tomb and excavated palace 1863 and 1888. The land
gardens of the Nanyue kings. While the city’s modern was granted to France as
infrastructure is comprehensive, Guangzhou’s architectural compensation for its losses
heritage has also been carefully preserved in places. South of during the Second Opium War.
the city, Shamian Island was the site of the foreign concession The church’s twin spires rise to
and is filled with charming colonial-style buildings. a height of 190 ft (58 m), and
its bell tower contains four
A variety of foodstuffs, grains, and spices on sale, Qingping Market bronze bells cast in France.

( Qingping Market (see p165). Hualin Si is notable E Peasant Movement
Qingping Lu. q Huangsha. for its main hall with 500 images Institute
Open daily. of luohan or arhat (those freed 42 Zhongshan Er Lu. Tel (020) 8333
from the cycle of rebirth); one 3936. q Peasant Movement Institute.
Just across the road from of them, sporting a broad- Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Shamian Island (see pp306–7) is brimmed hat, is supposed to be
one of China’s largest and most the merchant Marco Polo. The city’s revolutionary
famous markets, devoted to all past is on display in this
types of produce. On sale are former Ming Confucian temple.
medicines, spices, vegetables, In 1924, the building became a
dried seafood, grains, fish, meat, training school for peasant
and live animals, including cats, revolutionaries, who were
dogs, and endangered species. taught by leaders such as
Fortunately, the numbers of Mao Zedong and Zhou Enlai
endangered animals on sale have (see p256). The school closed
drastically reduced in recent in 1927, after the Guandong
years. For some visitors, the Communist uprising, when
atmosphere is too gory, while for 5,000 people were killed
others it is exhilaratingly Chinese. under the orders of General
Chiang Kai-shek (see p72).
 Hualin Si Devotees lighting incense sticks, Hualin Si
Near Changshou Lu. Tel (020) 8139 Y Nan Yue Palace Gardens
6228. q Changshou Lu. Open daily. Zhongshan Lu. q Peasant Movement
Institute. Open 11am–2:30pm &
The city’s liveliest Buddhist 5–10pm daily.
temple, founded in AD 526, was
one of the many shrines visited This extraordinary site
by Bodhidarma, the Indian contains the excavated gardens
founder of Chan Buddhism that surrounded the palace of
Zhao Tuo, the founder of the
ancient Nan Yue Kingdom
(see p306). A Qin general from
Hebei province, he founded
an independent kingdom
after the fall of the Qin
dynasty. The site is covered
by a corrugated roof, and
a raised pathway leads
past the main sights.
To the northeast, a paved lake
and an ornamental stream are
clearly visible, while in the
southwestern corner are the
remains of an even older
Qin dynasty shipyard. The site’s
small museum exhibits stone
slabs, pillars, and roof-tiles,
many of which bear the inscrip-
tion “Panyu,” Guangzhou’s
original name.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

GUANGZHOU 305

U Huaisheng Mosque survive, and most of the current VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
56 Guangta Lu. q Ximenkou. halls date to the 19th century.
Open to Muslims only. The pillared main hall has Practical Information
several Buddha images, while 94 miles (150 km) NW of Hong
Said to have been founded the three pagodas behind it are Kong. * 12,700,000. n 195 Yan
during the Tang dynasty by Abu of great antiquity. Of these, one Jiang Lu, (020) 8333 6888.
Waqas (see p306), this is one of was built in AD 676 over a hair of
China’s oldest mosques. Much Transport
of the mosque has been Hui Neng, the Sixth Zen k £ Guangzhou Station & East
reconstructed, though Patriarch (AD 638–713) who Train Station. @ Provincial Bus
it contains an ancient came from Guangzhou, Station, Liuhua Station & Tianhe
Islamic-style minaret and while the other two are Bus Station g to Hong Kong
numerous stone stelae. 10th-century structures. from Nanhai Port.

 Guangxiao Si  Liu Rong Si The pagoda’s wooden eaves are
109 Guangxiao Lu. Tel (020) Liurong Lu. Tel (020) 8339 covered in intricate carvings of
8108 8867. q Ximenkou. 2843. q Gongyuanqian. birds, insects, and lion. At the
Open daily. & Open 9am–4pm daily. & top is an enormous bronze pillar
with reliefs of meditating figures.
Thought to have been Liu Rong Si, the Six
Little remains of the original
founded during the Banyan Temple, was temple, which was associated
with Hui Neng. The Hall of the
Western Han dynasty, established in AD 537 to Sixth Patriarch contains a bronze
figure of him, cast in AD 989. The
the Guangxiao Si house a portion of the temple was named by the exiled
Song dynasty poet Su Dongpo
(Temple of Glorious Buddha’s ashes, which (see p310) in appreciation of the
trees in the temple. His callig-
Filial Piety) is one of the Ancient pagoda were brought from raphic characters that read “Liu
Rong” are engraved into stone
city’s most attractive Guangxiao Si India and enshrined in over the gateway.

sights. Built over the the Flower Pagoda

palace of the last Nan (Hua Ta). Rebuilt in

Yue king, it became a temple in 1097, the 187-ft (57-m)

the 5th century and was later octagonal pagoda appears to

visited by Bodhidarma, the have nine stories from the

founder of Chan Buddhism. outside, but in fact has a total of

None of the original buildings 17 – they are well worth a climb.

Guangzhou City Center Train

1 Qingping Market Provincial Station
2 Hualin Si
3 Sacred Heart Church Bus Station XI LU Bayiun Airport
HUANSHI 28 km (17 miles)
Guangzhou
Railway

Liuhua Station

4 Peasant Movement Institute Station Orchid Garden and
5 Nan Yue Palace Gardens LU
6 Huaisheng Mosque AN Trade Islamic Cemetery
7 Guangxiao Si
LU Fair Hall HU

ZHANQI ANSHI ZHONG L U
RENMIN LU
Yuexiu Yuexiu
Park
Gongyuan

8 Liu Rong Si LIUHUA Nan Yue Art Museum
9 Chen Jia Ci Tomb
0 Nan Yue Tomb Liuhua JIEFANG BEI LU East Train Station
q Orchid Garden & Islamic LIURONG LU Beixim Five Rams 5 km (3 miles)
Park Lake
Cemetery Statue

X D O N G F E N
UA L U
I H G XI LU Sun Yat-Sen

Memorial Hall SHENZHEN &

D O N G F E N G Z H O N G L U HONG KONG

w Yuexi Gongyuan Chen Jia Ci Guangxiao Peasant Movement
e Shamian Island Si Institute

Liu Rong Si YUEXIU LU

Nanhai Port Chen Clan Gongyuanqian
Academy ZHONGSHAN LU
Ximenkou Nan Yue Peasant
LON G J I N ZHONG JIEFANG NAN LU Palace Movement
Huaisheng Gardens Institute
LU Mosque
WENMING LU

Changshou HUIFU XI LU
Lu
CHANGSHOU LU
Hualin Si
RENMIN LU DAXIN LU
Haizhu Square
G LU Sacred
WENCH
A N XIAJIU LU Heart YIDE LU L U Haizhu
Church YA N J I A N G Bridge

0 meters 800 Qingping Cultural v er
0 yards 800 Market Park LU

Huangsha LIUERSAN LU IPNeJaI ArlNRGi

FOSHAN B

Shamian Island Xidi Key to Symbols see back flap
Wharf
Renmin
Bridge

306 THE SOUTH

 Chen Jia Ci Less severely classical, their halls of Zhao Tuo. Zhao Tuo, a Qin
Zhongshan Qi Lu. Tel (020) 8181 4371. are generally lower and broader. general from Hebei province,
q Chen Clan Academy. Open Roofs, and as in the case of the was sent here in 214 BC to
8:30am–5pm daily. & first hall here, façades, are often control southern China. After
smothered in fantastic designs the fall of the Qin, Zhao Tuo
This temple, in the gloriously and sculpted figures from operas. established the Nan Yue
colorful southern style, was built Kingdom. Shortly after his
in 1890 with funds donated by P Nan Yue Tomb grandson’s death, it was
members of the Chen clan. It was 867 Jiefang Bei Lu. Tel (020) 3618 2920. reclaimed by the Han kings.
to act as a temple of ancestor q Yuexiu Park. Open 9am– 5:30pm,
worship and as a school. Though last entry 4:45pm daily. & The tomb contains magnificent
obviously Chinese, these south- burial items made of gold and
ern temples are quite different This is the site of the 2,000-year- precious stones, including a jade
from their northern counterparts. old tomb of Zhao Mo, grandson burial suit. Many of the captions
are in English, and a video
recounts the story of the excava-
tion that took place in 1983.

Brick relief of a traditional opera on the façade of Chen Jia Ci Y Orchid Garden & Islamic
Cemetery
Jiefang Bei Lu. q Yuexiu Park.
Open 6am–9pm daily. &

This charming garden has
bamboo groves and ponds
overhung with palms. The
orchids are in greenhouses, and
the best time to see them is late
winter to early spring. Along the
garden’s western edge, the
cemetery contains what is said

Shamian Island Christ Church served the
Protestants among the
Leased to the French and British after the Chinese were British community at the
defeated during the Second Opium War (1856–60), this west end of the island.
island is really little more than a sandbank about half a mile
(800 m) long. Before being allowed to settle on SHAMIAN
Shamian Island, foreigners had previously been SHAMIAN WU JIE
compelled to remain in their warehouses. SHAMIAN SI JIE
Soon after the French settled at the east end
and the British at the west, the streets filled
with European-style villas, banks, and
churches. Chinese people were long
forbidden to enter the island, so an
exclusively European way of life prevailed
on this strange outpost.

SHAMIAN

American
Consulate

White Swan
Hotel

Cannon in Shamian Park
The two cannons found in Shamian Park were
manufactured in the neighboring city of Foshan for
use during the mid-19th century Opium Wars.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

GUANGZHOU 307

to be the tomb of Abu Waqas,
the uncle of the Prophet,
credited with bringing Islam to
China. Though closed to non-
Muslims, it can be viewed
through a screen.

Y Yuexiu Park Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall, Yuexiu Gongyuan
Jiefang Bei Lu. q Yuexiu Park.
founded by Five Immortals E Art Museum
Spread over 222 acres (90 ha), riding five rams, who planted 13 Luhu Lu. Tel (020) 8365 9337.
Yuexiu Park is one of the largest sheaves of corn to ensure that Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri,
municipal parks in China. It is famine would never strike. 9:30am–4:30pm Sat & Sun.
split into several parts by
Huanshi Zhong Lu and Nearby, the Municipal This contemporary museum
Qingyuan Lu. The most striking Museum is housed in the exhibits shows by major
building, the Sun Yat-Sen Zhenhai Lou, a Ming watch- Chinese artists. On permanent
Memorial Hall, is in the tower. It has 1,200 exhibits display is an exhibition of the
southernmost section off dating from 4000 BC to the works of political cartoonist Liao
Dongfeng Zhong Lu. Built in present, and includes a Christian Bingxiong, who was criticized in
1931 in traditional style with a tract that inspired the Taiping 1958 for his Rightist leanings.
blue tiled roof, it marks the spot Rebellion (see p428). No flip-flops.
where Dr. Sun Yat-Sen (see p303)
was proclaimed head of
government in 1923.

Most of the other sights lie in
the middle of the park, including
the Five Rams Statue – the city
symbol that commemorates the
myth that Guangzhou was

Façade on Da Jie
This bank’s façade is in typical
European colonial style. A number
of restored buildings along Shamian
Dajie have plaques describing their

former occupants.

SHAMIAN BEI JIE

DA JIESHAMIAN SAN JIE DA JIE
SHAMIANSHAMIAN ER JIE

SHAMIAN YI JIE
NAN JIE
SHAMIAN NAN JIE

SHAMIAN CUIZHOU
GONGYUAN GONGYUAN

ELEVATED ROADWAY

Zhu Jiang

0 meters 150 Key Our Lady of Lourdes
0 yards 150 Suggested route This Catholic church was primarily
where the French community,
which occupied the island’s eastern
end, would attend services.

308 THE SOUTH

7 Zhaoqing

60 miles (95 km) W of Guangzhou. *
3,900,000. £ from Guangzhou &
Foshan. @ g to Hong Kong. n 90
Tianming Bei Lu (0758) 222 9908.

The bedroom at Sun Yat-sen’s residence, Cuiheng This attractive city was the
home of the Italian Jesuit
5 Cuiheng view the town’s other crafts, it is priest Matteo Ricci in the late
16th century, before he was
worth visiting the Foshan Folk summoned to Beijing by the
Ming emperor, Wanli. Today,
Art Studio, housed in a former it is famous for the scenery at
Qixing Yan (Seven Star Crag),
15 miles (25 km) E of Zhongshan Ming temple, the Renshou Si, 1 mile (2 km) to the north.
town. @ bus 12 from Zhongshan in the southern part of town. Located beside a lake, the
East Bus Station; bus 10 from Zhuhai. Nearby, the Zu Miao was mist-covered peaks lie in
the shape of the Big Bear
founded in AD 1080 as a Daoist constellation, and are
thought to be fallen stars.
Zhongshan county, located 56 temple. It is lavishly decorated They can be explored via
a network of bridges
miles (90 km) south of with ceramic figures, and causeways.

Guangzhou, is the made in nearby The city’s sights include
the Chongxi Ta, a pagoda
birthplace of Sun Shiwan, repre- overlooking the Xi Jiang. Built
in the Ming period, it is the
Yat-sen (see p303), senting scenes tallest pagoda in Guangdong.
The old City Walls still stand on
whose name is from traditional Jianshe Lu, while in the western
suburbs, the Plum Monastery is
Sun Zhongshan opera and folk associated with Huineng, the
Sixth Chan Buddhist Patriarch.
in Mandarin. stories. Near the
A short bus ride northeast of
This revolution- Elaborate stone roof of entrance is a the city is the forested reserve
of Dinghu Shan, which offers
ary leader was Zuci Miao, Foshan garden displaying numerous scenic walking trails.

born in Cuiheng the cannons that } Qixing Yan
Tel (0758) 223 4728.
village on the outskirts of were used against the British Open 7:30am–6pm daily. &

Zhongshan town in 1866. The in the Opium Wars.

Portuguese-style house in

which he lived with his parents E Foshan Folk Art Studio

between 1892 and 1895 is now Zumiao Lu. Tel (0757) 8225 4052.

part of a memorial garden Open daily. & ∑ fsfolkart.com

devoted to his life. Nearby, other  Zu Miao
houses belonging to the same 21 Zumiao Lu. Open 8:30am–7:30pm
period have been restored and daily. &

are also open to the public.

E Sun Yat-sen’s Residence
Cuiheng Dadao. Tel (0760) 8550 1691.
Open 9am–4:30pm daily.

6 Foshan

21 miles (35 km) SW of Guangzhou.
* 7,200,000. £ @ minibuses from
Guangzhou. n 114–118 Fenjiang
Zhong Lu, (0757) 8380 8888.

Foshan has been known since The Piyun Tower perched atop Zhaoqing’s ancient city walls
the Song dynasty for its fine
ceramics, particularly figurines
with a pale blue glaze. Visits
to factories can be arranged
through the tourist office. To

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

GUANGDONG & HAINAN 309

The grand gateway of Feilai Gusi along the banks of Bei Jiang

8 Feilai & Feixia is often being refurbished as a became renowned for its
result of regular flooding. There connection with Bodhidarma,
52 miles (85 km) NW of Guangzhou. are, however, some impressive the founder of Chan (Zen)
@ to Qingyuan. Feilai & Feixia frescoes and hiking paths. Buddhism who meditated here
Temples: 4 depart daily at 8am from for 36 years. One of the halls
Qingyuan. 9 Shaoguan contains a statue of him, said to
have been cast from his corpse;
The busy market town of 144 miles (230 km) N of Guangzhou. another has a statue of a monk
Qingyuan is the access point £@ walking on stilts. The bell tower
for two picturesque temples Shaoguan town has only a has a large, 700-year-old bronze
located at Feilai and Feixia handful of sights such as the bell cast in the Song dynasty.
on Bei Jiang, that can only be Fengcai Lou, a reconstruction
reached by ferry. The ferries, of an ancient city gate, and the About 31 miles (50 km)
which depart early in the Dajian Chan Monastery founded northeast of town, Danxia Shan
morning and return in the in AD 660, but there are three is a 112-sq-mile (290 sq-km)
afternoon, pass fishermen worthwhile places of interest park on the banks of the Jin.
whose cormorants – trained to in the vicinity. The Nanhua Si It has rocky outcrops in
fish for them – sit patiently on (Southern Flower Temple) 16 fascinating shapes, with trails
the prows of sampans. The first miles (25 km) to the southeast, leading to their summits. A boat
temple, Feilai Gusi, was founded was founded in AD 502 and or bus takes visitors farther
about 1,400 years ago and is along the river to Danxia Shan
situated on the steep riverbank Statue of a monk walking on“improbable itself. Meaning “Red Cloud,” it
of a gorge. Steps lead up from stilts,”Nanhua Si has brilliant red sandstone
the river to its ornate gateway. cliffs, with paths leading past
Its current buildings are mainly hillside monasteries.
from the Ming dynasty. A short
walk through the various About 11 miles (18 km) south
buildings leads to a modern of Shaoguan is Shizi Yan, a cave
pavilion, from where there are where the prehistoric remains of
superb views along the river. Homo erectus were found. The
museum displays arrowheads,
Located a short distance pottery, and artifacts from local
farther along the gorge is prehistoric sites.
Feixia Gusi comprising two late
19th-century Daoist temples,  Nanhua Si
Feixia and Cangxia. Feixia is Tel (0751) 650 1223.
much larger than Feilai, and its Open 7am–6pm daily. &
stone halls and temples are sur-
rounded by a fine set of walls. } Danxia Shan
Cangxia, located up the hillside, Open daily. &

T Shizi Yan
Open daily. &

310 THE SOUTH

0 Hainan Island The East Coast
Wenchang: 50 miles (80 km) SE of
Although China’s largest island became a part of the Chinese Haikou. @ Overseas Chinese Tropical
empire during the Han dynasty, it remained a backwater and Farm: Tel (0898) 6362 2808.
place of exile until the mid-20th century. It was so remote that Open daily. &
its ethnic Li people still lived a primitive hunter-gatherer The town of Wenchang is the
existence until as late as the 1930s. In 1988, it became a ancestral home of the Soong
Special Economic Zone, but a decline in investments has left sisters (see p204), two of whom,
behind unfinished construction sites all over. Despite this, Qingling and Meiling, married
Hainan is today an independent province with much to offer. the revolutionary leaders Sun
Its attractions include the tropical beaches around the Yat-sen and Chiang Kai-shek. Its
southern city of Sanya, impressive mountain scenery in the main attractions are the beaches
southwest, and coffee plantations on its east coast. and coconut groves at Dongjiao
Yelin. About 62 miles (100 km)
Fish being laid out to dry in Xincun on the East Coast south on the outskirts of Wann-
ing town, Dongshan Ling has
Haikou Wuzhi Shan City & the curiously shaped natural rock
175 miles (285 km) N of Sanya. * Central Highlands formations. Farther south, Xing-
2,100,000. k @ g mainland ferries Wuzhi Shan City: 165 miles (265 km) long is known throughout China
from Xingang pier. SW of Haikou. @ from Sanya & Haikou. for its coffee, and the Xinglong
Nationality Museum: # daily. & Tropical Botanical Gardens,
The island’s capital is a busy port 2 miles (3 km) south of town
and transport hub, with the The central mountainous region offer coffee and tea tastings.
ambience of a tropical Asian city. is worth visiting for its spectacular Xinglong’s Overseas Chinese
To its southeast, Wugong Ci (Five landscape and for the chance Tropical Farm is home to over
Officials Memorial Temple) was to explore the island’s ethnic 20,000 overseas Chinese, who
built during the Ming dynasty culture. The main town is the emigrated from Vietnam and
(1368–1644) to honor a group of pleasant Wuzhi Shan City (also other countries in Southeast Asia
scholars who were banished here known as Tongshi), the capital to make their living through the
during the Tang and Song dynas- of the autonomous Li & Miao production of coffee and rubber.
ties for criticizing their govern- governments. The Nationality South of Xinglong is Lingshui,
ment. One of its halls commemo- Museum offers an excellent the principal town of the
rates the Song-era poet, Su insight into all aspects of Hainan’s Lingshui Li Autonomous County,
Dongpo, who was also exiled history and culture. The city’s that is home to a large number
here between 1097 and 1100. surrounding countryside has of Li people who have lived on
remnants of traditional Li houses Hainan since 200 BC. The
To the west of the city center and barns. About 31 miles Communist Museum commem-
is a massive fortification at (50 km) northeast of town is the orates China’s first Communist
Xiuying, constructed by the 6,125-ft (1,867-m) high Wuzhi government that was formed in
Chinese in the 19th century to Shan, which is sacred to the Li Hainan in 1928. Many of
resist the French. Thick stone people. It is a pleasant hike to Lingshui’s narrow streets remain
walls conceal six large cannons, the mountain’s summit. Also unchanged since the early 1900s,
that are connected by subter- northeast of Wuzhi Shan City, the and are lined with quaint shops
ranean passages. Farther town of Qiongzhong is surroun-
southwest is the tomb of Hai ded by some beautiful scenery, Calligraphy at Dongshan Ling Ridge
Rui, an upright Ming dynasty including the 984-ft (300-m)
official who was exiled to high waterfall at Baihua Shan.
Hainan for criticism.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

GUANGDONG & HAINAN 311

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
15 miles (25 km) S of Guangdong.
* 8,450,000. n 38 Bailong
Nan Lu, Haikou, (0898) 6666 9296.
_ Li People San Yue San
Festival (the 3rd day of the 3rd
lunar month).

Transport
k £ train-ferry shuttle from
Guangzhou. g from Beihai,
Shenzhen & Guangzhou.

The pristine, palm-fringed beach at Yalong Bay Island, a two-hour boat ride off
the coast. It is popular for
and houses. Just 6 miles (10 km) town of Sanya. The busiest snorkeling and hiking.
south of Lingshui is Xincun beach is Dadonghai, just south
with a large Hakka population of town, with hotels, O Jianfeng Ling Nature
(see p296). Close by and restaurants, and shops. The Reserve
accessible only by boat, Monkey area’s best beach is to the east 65 miles (115 km) NW of Sanya. @ to
Island has a sizable colony of of town at Yalong Bay, with a Dongfang (Basuo) from Sanya, then
Guangxi macaques, and is a 4-mile (7-km) stretch of pristine local bus. Open daily.
popular day trip from Xincun. sand. The beach at Tianya
Haijiao, 16 miles (25 km) Pleasantly situated in the
Sanya & the South Coast northwest, is known for its mountains, this highland
175 miles (285 km) S of Haikou. * famous rock that appears on rainforest, with its huge trees,
680,000. k @ the old two-yuan note. The ferns, and vines as well as
Hainan’s main attractions are other attraction is Ximao Zhou species of birds and butterflies,
the tropical beaches near the offers great walks and hikes.

Haikou

Xinying Wenchang
Danzhou
Dongjiao
Yelin

Baisha Qionghai

Dongfang Bawang Ling
(Basuo)
Qiongzhong

JIANFENG LING Wuzhi Shan Wanning
NATURE RESERVE Xinglong
Wuzhi Shan City
Jianfeng Key
Ling Qizhi
Shan Expressway
National Highway
Lingshui Minor road
Railroad
Tianya Xincun Mountain peak
Haijiao
Ya Zhou Wan

Ximaozhou Nanwan Houdao 25
Dongmaozhou Sanya (Monkey Island)
Yalong
Bay 0 km 25

0 miles

For additional map symbols see back flap



THE SOUTH 313

HONG KONG & MACAU

Although tiny and relatively recently developed, Hong Kong and
Macau are rich and fascinating oddities. They owe their unique
identities as administrative regions separate from China to the
trade that flourished between East and West from the 16th
century onwards, and to the British and Portuguese powers
that annexed and held them until 1997 and 1999 respectively.

The Portuguese were the first Europeans Kong’s manufacturing industry boomed.
to settle at “A-Ma Gau” or the Bay of A-Ma – It soon grew into a densely packed, high-
the region’s patron goddess – in 1557. rise city built by ambitious colonial
Today, Macau, as it came to be known, is a administrators and millions of Chinese
charming haven of pastel-colored colonial migrants escaping the turmoil
mansions and glitzy casinos, the proceeds convulsing their Communist homeland.
of which, along with tourism, keep this In its final years as a British territory, Hong
tiny region financially afloat. Kong’s status as a major financial center
was established. Despite the 1997 Asian
In the 1800s, China’s attempt to destroy financial crisis, it retains its sleek
Britain’s lucrative opium trade drove the international gloss, its enterprise,
British to blockade Chinese ports and and its breathtaking visual impact.
eventually secure Hong Kong as their Standing in Kowloon and gazing at the
own trading enclave in 1841. The area, skyscrapers scaling Hong Kong Island’s
hitherto inhabited by farmers and hills, writer Pico Iyer’s description sums it
fisherfolk, quickly flourished. After World up succinctly: “a dream of Manhattan,
War II and the four-year Japanese arising from the South China Sea.”
occupation, trade resumed and Hong

Spirals of fragrant incense hanging in Daoist Man Mo Temple, Hong Kong
Night-time view of Central’s modern skyscrapers, Hong Kong

314 THE SOUTH

Exploring Hong Kong & Macau

The bustling heart of Hong Kong is broken in two and Guangzhou
divided by Victoria Harbour. Its key sights, cultural Zhaoqing G U A N G D O N G
attractions, shopping, and eating spots are found along
the northern shore of Hong Kong Island, and at, or close to, Zhongshan Shenzhen
Kowloon’s southern tip. Between Kowloon and the border
with the rest of China lie the New Territories, with their Kowloon
rugged mountains and most of Hong Kong’s modern, high-
rise dormitory towns. The other major islands – Lamma, Hong Kong
Cheung Chau, and Lantau – are west of Hong Kong Island,
and beyond these is Macau. A passport is necessary to leave Macau Island
or arrive in both Macau and Hong Kong, as they are still
administered as autonomous regions of China. South China Sea

Locator Map
See Map pp282–3

Sights at a Glance Other Attractions Shenzhen Mai
4 Happy Valley Racecourse Bay Po
Historic Sites, Neighborhoods w Star Ferry
& Towns l Ocean Park Fairview
1 Central Park
2 Wan Chai Shops & Markets
3 Causeway Bay q Sheung Wan’s Markets Wang Lam
7 Lan Kwai Fong i Temple Street & Jade Markets Chau Sha Country
8 The Central-Mid-levels Escalator o Bird & Flower Markets Po Tsuen
9 Hollywood Road
e Tsim Sha Tsui Waterfront Islands
t Nathan Road v Lamma Island
f Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail b Cheung Chau Island
k Aberdeen n Lantau Island
c Stanley
m Macau pp332–5 3Yuen
39 Long
Museums
Tai Shui 10 Tai Lam
r Hong Kong Museum of Art Hang Country Park
y Hong Kong Science Museum
u Hong Kong Museum of History San Hui Village
a Hong Kong Heritage Museum
Lung Kwu Tan Tuen Mun
Parks, Gardens & Areas
of Natural Beauty Tai Lam Chung
Reservoir
5 Hong Kong Zoological &
Botanical Gardens Siu Lang Shui Pillar Point 9 Ma
Wan
6 The Peak pp318–19
d Sai Kung Town & Peninsula Macau Yam O 8

Beaches Chek Lap Kok Airport Discovery
g Kadoorie Farm & Botanic International Airport 8 Bay

Garden Chek Lap Kok
h Mai Po Marshes
j Maclehose Trail Peng Chau
z Deep Water & Island

Repulse Bays Tung Chung Lantau North
Country Park
Temples & Lantau
Monasteries Island Mui Wo

0 Man Mo Temple Tai O Ngong Pui O
p Wong Tai Sin Temple Ping
s 10,000 Buddhas Lantau South
Country Park Cheung Chimawan
Monastery Sha Peninsula
x Hong Kong Life Saving
Fan Lau 0 km 5 Cheung
Society 0 miles 5 Chau

HONG KONG & MACAU 315

Hong Kong Island & Kowloon Getting Around

For Street Finder Map see pp340–43 The best way to get around Hong Kong’s
central areas is on foot. The efficient MTR
WESTERN HARBOUR CROSSING K O W LO O N Hung (Mass Transit Railway), which is the city’s
CHATHAM RD SOUTH Hom subway system, serves the central
TSIM SHA districts, has a fast airport line, and links
TSUI TSIM SHA the center with the New Territories and
TSUI EAST China (see p620). Buses, trams, and taxis
CROSS HARBOUR TUNNEL operate from all major nodes and are
RO AD cheap by international standards. The
NATHAN RDSALISBURY East Tsim Star Ferry (see p321), shuttles between
CARONTAODN Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, while
Sha Tsui regular inter-island ferries link Hong
Kong with the main islands. The fast,
SHEUNG Victoria Harbour sleek Macau-bound ferries leave from
WAN RCDONCN their own terminal just west of the
Hong inter-island ferry terminal.
Kong

H O LQLYWUEEN'S AUEGNTHRTAL CEN T CHUNG WAN CAUSEWAY
RD

OO D D
ON
ROBINS RD (CENTRAL) BAY

R RAL ORADNPGADRKMKQOUNIERGEAN SLWTAYWY GAJLOOHNUNHCSCEETNSOHTNNAEERSRISDYR D
R
ARD E N D WONG NAI C H UN G
H
0 meters G
800

0 yards 800 H O N G K O N G RD
ISLAND

Shenzhen

Shenzhen
Lo Wu

Sheung Shui

9 Sheung Kwan Tei
Shui
Fanling Pat Sin Leng Plover Cove
Country Park Country Park

Fanling Pat Sin

Range Hoi Ha Wan

Plover Marine

Chuen Shuen Wan Cove Park Tap Mun Chau
Park Reservoir Chek Mun (Grass Island)

Tai Wo San Mun (Tolo-Channel)

Tai Po Tsai Tai Tan

Tai Po Tolo Harbour Sai Kung West Hoi
Market 9 Country Park Tai Wan
Tai Mo Shan
Country Park Ko Tong Sharp
Peak
Pak Tam
University Jacob's Au
Ladder
NEW TERRITORIES Sai Kung East Tai Long Wan
Tai Lam Shing Mun Pak Tam Country Park
Country Country Park Fo Tan Ma On Shan Chung Tai Long
Country Park Sai Wan

Park Sha Tin

Sha Tin Tai Mong

Tsuen Wan Golden Tai Wei Tsai High Island
41 Wu Lei Tau Reservoir
Tsing Yi 2Hill Lion Rock
Tsing Yi Country Sharp
8 3 Country Park
5 Island Kai Sai
Park Ho Chung
Wo Mei Chau

Kowloon

3 Tong Tiu Chung

K O W LO O N Tseng Lan Shue Chau

Mong 7 Tsung
Kok Kwan O
Kowloon Key
Hung
Hom

East Tsim

Sha Tsui North Point Tseung Train station
Kwan Expressway
Hong Kong Central Clearwater Bay National Highway
(Junk Bay) Minor road
Rail line
Pok Fu Lam Po Toi O Walking trail
Country Ferry route
Park Hong Kong Joss House Tei Tong
Island Bay Tsui

Shek O Tung Lung
Tai Tam Country Chau
Yung Shue Country Park

Wan Park Shek O
South China
East Lamma Repulse
Channel Bay

Cape Sea Special Administrative
D'Aguilar Region
Sok Kwu Wan

Lamma Lo Chau
Island (Beaufont Island)

Po Toi Island For additional map symbols see back flap

316 THE SOUTH

The Two IFC Tower near the Star The modernistic, but feng shui- Centre across the water in
Ferry Terminal friendly girders of the HSBC Kowloon is even taller than
(Hong Kong & Shanghai the IFC, at 1,587 ft (484 m),
1 Central Banking Corporation) Head- and marks a shift away from
quarters loom over the square. Hong Kong Island’s north
Hong Kong Island. Map 2 C3. Designed by British architect Sir shore for competitive
q Central. 4 Star Ferry from Norman Foster and completed hi-tech architecture.
Kowloon. in 1985, it was at that time one
of the most expensive buildings, Hong Kong’s history is now
The sleek, corporate cathedrals costing more than HK$5 billion. showcased during the winter
of local banks and businesses Be sure to rub the paws of the holiday season in a sound and
tower over the ever-teeming regal-looking lions outside for light show, where the Victoria
streets of Hong Kong’s financial luck. The stark spike of the Harbour skyline is lit with festive
and administrative epicenter. Bank of China headquarters lights that create giant pictures
Apart from Statue Square, which rises behind the HSBC on the buildings.
is at the heart of the area, there Headquarters. Designed by the
are few cultural sights in Central, renowned Chinese-born The roof of the Convention & Exhibition
as many colonial buildings have architect I.M. Pei, its harsh, Centre
long since disappeared, making angular lines go against all feng
way for high-rise development. shui guidelines, and it is seen as 2 Wan Chai
The desire for real estate has an aggressive statement that
always been strong, and land offsets the benign energies of Hong Kong Island. Map 3 F3. q Wan
reclamation started almost as the HSBC Headquarters. Chai. 4 Star Ferry from Kowloon.
soon as the British took over in v@
1841. This continous Northwest of Statue Square
reclamation has made Hong near the Star Ferry Terminal is Made famous in Richard
Kong Island and Kowloon creep Hong Kong’s second tallest Mason’s 1957 novel The World of
even closer.Central is easily building, the 88-story, 1,362-ft Suzy Wong, Wan Chai’s colorful
explored on foot, allowing (415-m) Two International 1950s and 60s red light district
visitors a close view of some of Finance Centre (IFC), built in has given way to new develop-
the most interesting buildings, 2003. A hotel and a residential ment, fancy bars, restaurants,
especially in Statue Square. tower have also been erected and hotels. The Wan Chai MTR is
here. The IFC Mall at the tower’s a good starting point for a
The elegant Neo-Classical base is one of Hong Kong’s walking tour. A trip down
Former Supreme Court largest malls, adding to Central’s Lockhart Road, just around the
Building, surmounted by the several upmarket shopping corner from the MTR, reveals the
blindfolded figure of Themis, malls, such as The Landmark. area’s few remaining ties with its
the Greek goddess of justice, The International Commerce past in the form of a handful of
is the sole surviving colonial go-go bars.
structure in the square. HSBC building (right) on Statue Square and
Completed in 1911, it originally Bank of China (left) A five-minute walk north of
served as Hong Kong’s Supreme the MTR across Gloucester Road
Court and latterly served as the is Central Plaza, at one time the
seat of the region’s government. tallest, and still one of Hong
Today it houses the Court of Kong’s grandest skyscrapers.
Final Appeal. There are splendid views from
the 46th floor. Facing Central
Beyond this, the municipal- Plaza across Harbour Road is the
style architecture of the HK$4.8 billion Convention &
square’s center is rather Exhibition Centre. The sweep-
disappointing. However, not all ing lines of the extension at its
the structures lack imagination.

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HONG KONG 317

northern end are intended to
create the impression of a bird
taking flight. This was the venue
for the 1997 ceremony during
which Britain handed Hong
Kong back to China. The glass
walls offer fine harbor views,
and outside are a large
promenade and a pleasant
sitting area.

3 Causeway Bay

The historic Noonday Gun, fired daily at noon, Causeway Bay

Hong Kong Island. q Causeway Bay. explains the origins of the way through the evening.
v Eastbound (to Shau Kei Wan) tradition, celebrated in Noel Horse racing is a passion in
trams. Coward’s song “Mad Dogs Hong Kong; it’s the only legal
and Englishmen.” gambling opportunity
A neon-lit crush of giant available to local people. The
department stores, such as Most of the land that industry is carefully controlled,
Sogo and malls like Hysan Causeway Bay stands on is with only the Hong Kong
Place and Times Square, and reclaimed, and the reclamation Jockey Club allowed to run
the ever-present crowds of work continues today along the betting.
shoppers is the first view of the harborside between
Causeway Bay when emerging Central and Causeway Bay. Formerly a malaria-ridden
from the MTR. East of the marsh, Happy Valley was turned
MTR sprawls Victoria Park, 4 Happy Valley into a racecourse as it was the
Hong Kong’s largest public Racecourse widest stretch of flat land on
park and a serene place to Hong Kong Island. The first race
swim, play tennis, or practice Hong Kong Island. v Happy Valley. was held here in 1845. Today,
tai ji quan. Close to the harbor, & For race night details, call 1817. the huge stand holds up to
also known as the typhoon ∑ hkjc.com/english 54,000 spectators. Racing is
shelter, is the Noonday Gun, open all year except in July and
which has been fired daily The racecourse at Happy Valley August. Happy Valley’s small
since the 1840s and retained crackles with nervous energy Racing Museum details Hong
as a charity fundraising event. during the Wednesday race Kong’s racing history.
The enclosure housing the gun nights, as tens of thousands of
opens for half an hour after eager gamblers shout their 5 Hong Kong Zoo-
noon, where a small plaque logical & Botanical
Gardens
Happy Valley Races

Hong Kong’s punters are crazy about horse racing. A single race at Albany Road. Map 2 B4. Tel (0852)
Happy Valley or at Sha Tin in the New Territories, often attracts more 2530 0154. q Central. @ 3B, 12, 12A,
bets than an entire week of racing in Britain, and in 2012/13, the turn- 12M. Zoo: Open 6am–7pm daily.
over reached a record HK$94 billion. The government collects Gardens: Open 6am–10pm daily.
significant tax revenues from the races, and although revenue has ∑ lcsd.gov.hk
always been lost to illegal betting syndicates, the Hong Kong govern-
ment still took HK$11 billion in gambling tax revenue in 2012/13. Opposite Hong Kong Park, just
across Cotton Tree Drive, lie
A thrilling finish at Happy Valley Race Course the Zoological and Botanical
Gardens, established in 1864. The
gardens house dozens of exotic
animals such as lemurs, orang-
utans, and the world’s largest
collection of buff-cheeked
gibbons, while its aviaries have
a colorful collection of birds.
Hundreds of plants, including
some ancient trees, provide
welcome shade in this oasis of
quiet. There is also a playground,
some sculptures and fountains.

318 THE SOUTH

6 The Peak

Cooling sea breezes, shaded woodland walks and spectacular . Peak Circuit
views of the city, harbor and outlying islands make the Peak This flat 2.5-mile (4-km) circuit
an unmissable Hong Kong experience. Ever since colonial offers breathtaking views over
days, the Peak has been the place to live in the city. Governors Victoria Harbour to the north, and
and rich merchants built houses here in the mid-1800s to Aberdeen and Lamma Island to
escape the worst of the summer heat and humidity. The the south.
Peak’s inhabitants were hauled up the sheer slopes in sedan
chairs and numerous Chinese had to be employed to lug LUGARD ROAD
supplies to the mansions. When the Peak Tram (actually a
funicular railway) was built in 1888, the trip was slashed from
an hour’s slog to a pleasant, if alarmingly steep, 10-minute
ride. Despite the new accessibility, Chinese were excluded
from buying real estate on the Peak well into modern times.
Today, anyone with the means can acquire these properties –
among the world’s most expensive.

GOVERNOR’S WALK

Victoria Peak Garden VICTORIA PEAK
A steep trudge towards the summit leads to these GARDEN
well-manicured gardens, which were once part of
the Governor’s Lodge (destroyed after World War II). HARLECH ROAD
Sadly, the summit is fenced off and houses
telephone masts.

POK FU LAM
COUNTRY PARK

Pok Fu Lam Reservoir POK FU LAM
A 3-mile (5-km) path descends through the peaceful woods of the RESERVOIR
Country Park and past the reservoir. It emerges on Pok Fu Lam
Road, where frequent buses head back to the city center. KEY

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85 1 Governor’s Walk winds from the
garden to Harlech Road. It tends to
be overgrown and slippery.

2 This old route to Central is
pleasantly shaded but unrelentingly
steep. To avoid the busy traffic
near the bottom, detour onto
Tregunter Path.

3 Peak Galleria houses pleasant
shops and cafés.

HONG KONG 319

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Road.
Map 2 A5. Tel (0852) 2849 0668.
∑ thepeak.com.hk

Transport
v Lower Peak Tram Terminal,
Garden Road. @ 15c at Central
Bus Terminal (Pier 7); minibus 1
at Central (Two IFC).

. The View
Equally stunning by day or night, the panorama of harbor activity

and high-rises is endlessly fascinating. Clouds and smoggy haze,

however, often obscure the views; early mornings tend to be clearer.

THE PEAK MOUNT AUSTIN ROAD The Peak Tower
1,811 ft OLD PEAK This imposing mall at the tram terminus
(552m) ROAD contains over 30 shops, Madame Tussauds,
many cafés offering good views, and a 360°
VICTORIA viewing terrace.
GAP

POK FU LAM RESERVOIR ROAD 300
300
0 meters
0 yards . The Peak Tram
A commuter line with one of the best safety
Key records in the world, the Peak Tram has been
To Victoria Peak Garden
Peak Circuit trundling up the hair-raisingly steep 27°
To Pok Fu Lam Resevoir incline between St. John’s Cathedral and
Old Peak Road to Central
Peak Tram Victoria Gap for over a century.

For additional map symbols see back flap

320 THE SOUTH

7 Lan Kwai Fong 9 Hollywood Road

Central. Map 2 B3. q Central. Central. Map 2 B3. q Central, then
Escalator.
It is only at night that Lan Kwai
Fong (“Orchid Square”) really The many antique shops here
starts to buzz, attracting office
workers, including plenty of city no longer offer the bargains
suits, to its many bars, clubs, and
restaurants. It houses some of they once did, but Hollywood
the trendiest pubs and
entertainment hangouts in Road still has shops selling
Hong Kong, and the street is
especially packed with revelers ancient ceramics, mammoth
on Fridays and Saturdays,
although most places remain ivory carvings, and delicate
open until late throughout the
week. The partying spills across snuff bottles. The stalls on
D’Aguilar Street to tiny Wing
Wah Lane’s bars and good- Upper Lascar Row are a good
value Thai, Malay, and Indian
restaurants, most of which have hunting ground for antiques,
outdoor dining spaces.
old coins, and kitsch. Haggling
Crowds outside Lan Kwai Fong’s many
bars and clubs is acceptable here. Some home

8 The Central–Mid- furnishings shops, located at the
levels Escalator
Entrance to the Central–Mid-levels eastern end, sell traditional
Central. Map 2 B3. q Central.
Open 6am–midnight. Escalator items such as teardrop-shaped

silk lampshades.

stalls cluster round the Escalator.

Good Spring Company, on 0 Man Mo Temple
Cochrane Street, sells foul-

tasting health tonics from a

brass urn. Inside, its herbalist 128 Hollywood Rd. Map 2 A2. Tel
consultants, some of whom (0852) 2540 0350. q Central, then
speak English, can tailor-make a Escalator. Open 8am–6pm daily.
brew for those who are curious.

Partly as a result of the

completion of the Central–Mid- Atmospheric Man Mo Temple

levels Escalator, SoHo has been stands at the corner of Ladder

transformed from a sleepy Street. Inside its red and gold

district into a thriving interior, smoke curls from

entertainment area. Elgin, giant incense spirals

Shelley, and Staunton hanging from the ceiling,

Streets are excellent places and flames in large brass

to find food and drink. A urns devour paper offerings

plaque on Staunton Street to the dead, such as the

marks the site of the ubiquitous Hell bank

house in which Dr. Sun notes. Built in 1847, the

Yat-sen (see p303), seen temple was dedicated to

by many as China’s Lion, Man Mo two deities, Man and Mo

revolutionary forefather, Temple (the Gods of Literature

met with fellow members and War), believed to be

of his society in the late 1890s. real men – the 3rd-century

It also marks a historical trail of administrator Cheung Ah Tse

13 sites connected with him. and the 3rd-century soldier

All the roads between Queen’s Lighting a joss stick at Man Mo Temple
Road and Conduit Road are
linked by a 2,598-ft (792-m) long
string of escalators. This is the
longest covered outdoor
escalator system in the world,
and took two-and-a-half years
and more than HK$205 million
to build. It is the best way to
commute between Central, the
Mid-Levels, and SoHo (South of
Hollywood Road). Many bars,
cafés, restaurants, and market

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HONG KONG 321

The city’s Star Ferry service – an unmistakable sight in Hong Kong

Kwan Yu – who were deified by usually sold in the wet w Star Ferry
the emperors. Their statues can
be seen at the back of the main markets, while the fruit and
chamber. The temple served as
a courthouse and community vegetable markets sell a Star Ferry Terminals: Central, Wan Chai
center to the Chinese in the wonderful selection of fruit & Kowloon. Map 3 D2, 3 F3, 3 E1.
19th century, as an alternative and typical Chinese fare, Tel (0852) 2367 7065. &
to adopting the alien policies including fresh, still-steaming ∑ starferry.com.hk
followed by the British. beancurd and tangy “1,000 year

q Sheung Wan’s eggs,” which are not, in fact, that
Markets
old, but given an aged look by Few activities in Hong Kong
Hong Kong Island. Map 2 A1. q
Sheung Wan. the mineral earth they are can compete with the sheer

The short stroll from Central’s stored in. These places are not excitement and romance of
slick modernity into the western
district of Sheung Wan feels like to be missed, although the jumping on these old 1960s
entering a different city.
Beneath the scruffy 1950s squeamish may want to avoid ferries that chug ponderously
tenement blocks, the area
around Queen’s Road West and the “wet” markets. between Kowloon and Hong
Wing Lok Street teems with
Chinese medicine and dried Kong Island. They are
seafood wholesalers. This is
probably the world’s largest by far the best and
center for the shark’s fin trade,
an exorbitantly priced delicacy, cheapest way to view
usually used in soups. The piles
of fins on view explain why the city skyline by day
the world shark population is
fast declining. or night. The main

Apart from dried goods, route links the Kowloon
fresh produce is available in the
many fruit, vegetable, and “wet” peninsula (just near
markets dotted between the
Central–Mid-levels Escalator the Clock Tower) with
and Morrison Street. Live
produce, of the feathered, the Star Ferry Terminal
finned or webbed kind, is
at Central, but it is also

possible to reach the

Convention Centre

and Wan Chai from

Kowloon aboard these

jolly green boats.

Touted as Hong Kong

Island’s most

dependable sight,

the Star Ferry service

was started by Mr.

Dorabjee Nowrojee, a

Parsi gentleman, way

back in 1898. At that

time, the only people

allowed on first-class

decks were Europeans,

and a collar and tie

Fresh fruit piled high at a market in Sheung Wan were obligatory.

322 THE SOUTH

y Hong Kong
Science Museum

2 Science Museum Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui
East. Map 1 C3. Tel (0852) 2732 3232.
q Tsim Sha Tsui. Open 10am–7pm
Mon–Wed & Fri, 10am–9pm Sat, Sun &
public hols. & free Wed.
∑ hk.science.museum

Forecourt of the Hong Kong Cultural Centre fills the second floor. Also on A great destination for children,
display are more than 3,000 the Science Museum is packed
e Tsim Sha Tsui objects in ceramics, jade, with fun interactive displays on
Waterfront bronze, lacquer, enamel, glass, its four floors that detail basic
ivory, as well as furniture and scientific principles, including
Kowloon. Map 1 B5. q Tsim Sha Tsui. fine porcelain. electricity and gravity, and a
g Star Ferry. n Star Ferry fun “World of Mirrors” on the
Concourse. Hong Kong Cultural t Nathan Road ground floor. There are also
Centre: 10 Salisbury Rd, (0852) 2734 good displays on technology,
2009. Open 9am–11pm. which demonstrate the
workings of various types of
machinery ranging from the
combustion engine to
computer chips, as well as
robotics and virtual reality.

The Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront is a
popular tourist destination with Kowloon. Map 1 B4. q Tsim Sha Tsui.

some of the ritziest arcades,

museums, and hotels in the city. Also known as the Golden Mile

The Star Ferry (see p321) docks on its lower reaches, Nathan

are also located here. East of the Road is Kowloon’s main

pier is the Hong Kong Cultural transport artery. Running north

Centre, which houses halls, through the center of the

theaters, and galleries. Adjacent peninsula, it is bright, busy, and

to the Centre is the Space packed with hotels

Museum, ideal for and shops. The term

children with its Golden Mile,

interactive exhibits however, flatters the

beneath a golf-ball area – far more

dome. Other glitzier enclaves can

attractions include be found in Central.

the Avenue of Stars Neon sign, Nonetheless, a stroll

honoring the city’s film Nathan Road along Nathan Road is Model of a DNA molecule at the Hong Kong
Museum of Science
greats and an elevated one of the essential
u Hong Kong
walkway for views Hong Kong experiences for its Museum of History

of the city skyline. crowds of shoppers and work- 100 Chatham Road South, Tsim Sha
Tsui East. Map 1 C3. Tel (0852) 2724
ers, the tangle of neon signage, 9042. q Tsim Sha Tsui. Open 10am–
6pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 10pm–7pm Sat,
r Hong Kong the ever-present tailoring shops, Sun & public hols. & free Wed.
Museum of Art and the mixture of smart hotels, ∑ hk.history.museum
Cantonese canteens, and grim
The pursuit of profit and the
guest-house tenement blocks, resulting change of pace in
much of Hong Kong has
10 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Map such as the once-notorious eroded most of its historical
1 B5. Tel (0852) 2721 0116. q Tsim Sha Chungking Mansions, a chaotic and cultural heritage. The
Tsui. g Star Ferry. Open 10am–6pm warren of tiny shops and
Fri–Wed (7pm Sat, Sun & public hols). restaurants. The road’s far

& free Wed. ∑ hk.art.museum northern end offers glimpses

of the past. Here, the ramrod-

The Museum of Art is renowned straight Boundary Street still

for its exhibitions of traditional marks the line of the 1860 border,

Chinese watercolors and the year Britain forced China to

calligraphy. Exquisite craftware cede Kowloon to accommodate

from Southern China and Asia the burgeoning island colony.

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HONG KONG 323

excellent Museum of History Caged song birds for sale at the Bird Market elegant cages, food, and
shows what the region looked in Mong Kok songbirds. Some bird lovers can
like before the skyscrapers be seen feeding their birds
arrived. Walk around replicas o Bird & Flower grasshoppers through the cage
of traditional villages, street Markets with chopsticks.
blocks, and shops or linger
over fascinating displays of old Flower Market Road, Mong Kok, p Wong Tai Sin
photographs. There is also a Kowloon. q Prince Edward. Temple
display of Bronze Age daggers,
pottery, and arrowheads found The Bird and Flower markets Wong Tai Sin, Kowloon. Tel (0852)
on Lamma and Lantau Islands are less frenetic and more 2327 8141. q Wong Tai Sin. Open
(see pp330–31). convenient than Temple Street, 7am–5:30pm daily.
and are well worth a visit.
i Temple Street & Colorful blooms and clever The Temple at Wong Tai Sin is
Jade Markets bamboo creations line Flower one of Hong Kong’s largest,
Market Road, just north of busiest, and most interesting
Yau Ma Tei. Map 1 B2. q Jordan or Prince Edward Road West. places of worship. The complex
Yau Ma Tei. Located at the end of Flower contains altars and shrines to
Market Road is the small Bird Buddhist, Confucian, and Daoist
Haggling is an essential skill Market with a few stalls selling deities. It is primarily dedicated
at the Temple Street night to the god Wong Tai Sin, a
market, which only livens shepherd reputed to have
up after 8pm. Although performed healing miracles.
cheaper bargains are available Beside the main temple are
elsewhere, the atmosphere fortune tellers, some of whom
and range of items, including can reveal your fortune for a
fake designer labels, shoes, hefty fee in English, mostly
Mao memorabilia, and pirated through palm and face reading.
DVDs, are unbeatable.
Adding to the experience Some worshipers try to divine
are fortune tellers, street what lies in store for them by
performers, and food vendors. shaking small canisters of
The market snakes north from bamboo sticks, until one emerges
Ning Po Street to Man Ming from the stack. Each is marked
Lane. The daytime Jade Market with a numeral and a corres-
is a good place to pick up ponding meaning. Also used
inexpensive trinkets, although are bui or “Buddha’s lips,” two
cheaper jade can be found pieces of wood shaped like
in Guangzhou (see pp304–5), orange-segments. A question is
and elsewhere in China. asked, the bui are thrown, and the
“lips”answer yes or no, depending
on which way they land.

Wong Tai Sin Temple, one of Hong Kong’s busiest places of worship





326 THE SOUTH

d Sai Kung Town &
Peninsula Beaches

New Territories. q to Choi Hung
station then taxi or minibus 1A or 1S
to Sai Kung Town.

It may seem incredible, but just

a few miles from Kowloon’s

bustling streets, it is possible to

find empty beaches, clear surf,

and seclusion on the shores of

the rugged Sai Kung Peninsula.

Life-size Buddhas, 10,000 Buddhas Monastery The area is best accessed via

Sai Kung Town, a pleasant place

a Heritage Sha Tin MTR station. Cross the to wander among the stalls
Museum
road and follow the clear selling fish near the sea-front,

signposts to the temple, which and to eat at the profusion of

is at the top of the wooded seafood restaurants.

1 Man Lam Rd, Sha Tin, New Territories. hill. The main temple houses Some of the most pristine
£ Sha Tin MTR, then bus 86; or Kow- hundreds of tiny golden beaches on the peninsula
loon Tong MTR, then bus 80M. Tel Buddhas which line can be found at Tai Long
(0852) 2180 8188. Open 10am–6pm shelves reaching up to the
Wan, where there is a small

Mon, Wed–Fri (7pm Sat, Sun & hols). ceiling. There are more village and a couple of

& ∑ heritagemuseum.gov.hk Buddha images outside, cafés and shops. The best

including one astride a way to reach this spot is to

This excellent, modern museum giant white elephant take bus 94 from Sai Kung

tells the story of Hong Kong’s and another on top of a Town to Pak Tam Au,

6,000 year-old human history. huge dog. Still more part of the Maclehose

The largest of the city’s statues peep from the Trail (see p327), and then

museums, it has six permanent monastery’s bright- hike to Tai Long Wan.

exhibitions and plenty of space red, nine-story A reasonable level of

for temporary shows. The New pagoda. The small Pagoda, fitness is required and

Territories Heritage Hall annex above the main 10,000 Buddhas remember to take

illustrates prehistoric human life, temple contains the along a good map

the rise of village society, embalmed body of the and plenty of fluids.

colonial rule and the large-scale temple’s founding monk, Much shorter and flatter

development of the New covered in gold leaf and woodland walks start at Pak

Territories towns. There is also a placed in a glass case. Tam Chung Visitor Centre.

display on Cantonese opera,

which explains the elaborate

ritual and color symbolism

involved and contains

exquisitely crafted costumes.

Beautiful calligraphy scrolls

hang from the second floor. The

Children’s Discovery Gallery on

the ground floor is a fun look at

Hong Kong’s natural habitat.

s 10,000 Buddhas
Monastery

21 Pai Tau Village, Sha Tin, New
Territories. £ Sha Tin MTR. Tel (0852)
2691 1067. Open 9am–5pm daily.

Ruby-lipped, life-size golden The beaches and emerald waters of the Sai Kung Peninsula
Buddhas line the steep path
up to the Temple of the 10,000
Buddhas, a 15-minute walk
from the northern exit of the

Hong Kong Harbor and Kowloon at dusk

HONG KONG 327

Maps are available here for g Kadoorie Farm & (380-ha) park the last refuge for
numerous walks, including a Botanic Garden many species. Apart from
worthwhile nature trail. Take a herons and egrets, otters and
taxi or bus 94. Lam Kam Rd, New Territories. Tel the very rare black-faced
(0852) 2483 7200. £ Tai Po Market spoonbills can be seen. There
Alternatively, hire a kaido, a MTR then 64K bus. Open are numerous bird hides for
small ferry, from Sai Kung Town 9:30am–5pm daily, but check in keen bird-watchers. Contact
for a tour of the many small advance for irregular closed days. HKTB (see p339) for details on
islands. It is easy to find eager ∑ kfbg.org.hk guided weekend tours. The
operators near the jetty, Hong Kong Wetland Park,
although without speaking This working organic farm and explores the area’s diverse
Cantonese, travelers will need a wildlife refuge is nestled in the ecosystems and occupies a
map to point out where they wooded foothills of Hong 150-acre (61-ha) area.
would like to go, as most of the Kong’s tallest mountain, 3,140-ft
operators don’t speak English. (957-m) high Tai Mo Shan. It is a j MacLehose Trail
great place to escape the
One of the buildings along the Lung Yeuk crowds and modernity of New Territories. Tai Mo Shan: taxi from
Tau Heritage Trail downtown, with an easy hike to Tsuen Wan MTR. ∑ hkwalkers.net
the top. There are terraced
f Lung Yeuk Tau vegetable plots and groves of Strung east–west across the
Heritage Trail fruit trees, a small enclosure of middle of the New Territories,
orphaned animals, including this 62-mile (100-km) route
Fanling, New Territories. £ Fanling wildcats, deer, and birds of prey, takes in huge, wild and high
MTR, then 54K minibus. and a walking trail. You will areas from Tuen Mun in the
need a good half-day to see west to the lovely Sai Kung
For a glimpse of pre-colonial everything the farm has to offer. Peninsula in the east. Divided
times in rural Hong Kong, into 10 manageable stages,
spend a couple of hours h Mai Po Marshes it is possible to walk for long
exploring the mile-long Lung stretches without seeing a
Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail near New Territories. Tel (0852) 2471 6306. soul. One of the most scenic
Fanling. This passes five wais £ Sheung Shui MTR then 76K bus or sections takes in Tai Mo
(walled villages) and six tsuens taxi. Permits: deposit & advanced Shan, Hong Kong’s highest
(villages), mostly built by the booking required. 8 on weekends. peak with views, on a clear
Tangs, one of the five great New & ∑ wwf.org.hk; day, down to the distant city.
Territory clans. The buildings are ∑ wetlandpark.com The far eastern stage is also
in various states of repair, from very beautiful, concluding
dilapidated ruins to pristine Wedged between Hong Kong at Tai Long Wan’s lovely
walled compounds and some and the urban sprawl of beaches (see p326). Sturdy
modern houses. Most of these Shenzhen, this globally shoes, fluids, and maps (from
are still lived in. Among the important wetland is home to the Government Publications
best-preserved buildings is the a range of wildife species. Centre) are essential. The
large Tang Chung Ling Pollution has taken its toll record for completing the
Ancestral Hall, founded in 1525 elsewhere along the Pearl River trail is just over 11 hours
and still used today by the Delta, making this 940-acre as part of the Annual
Tangs to pay respects to their Trailwalker Charity Race.
ancestors and to hold A scenic waterway in Mai Po Marshes
celebrations. Tong Kok, a wai,
also has dozens of old houses.

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

328 THE SOUTH

A traditional fishing boat moored in Aberdeen’s bustling harbor

k Aberdeen bustle and atmosphere. The The first and most famous of the
boat-filled harbor is the big floating restaurants, it is a massive,
Hong Kong Island. @ 70 or 75 from attraction in Aberdeen as it is palatial hulk that is part Las
Central’s Exchange Square bus station. the center of all activity. Many of Vegas-style casino and part
the boats found here are actually Chinese temple. The top deck is
Once a quiet fishing village, part-time residences for Hong a sophisticated seafood restaurant
Aberdeen is today the largest Kong’s fishermen and their with occasional live jazz.
separate town on Hong Kong families; so much so that the
Island with a population of district still has the characteristics l Ocean Park
more than 60,000. Named in of a traditional fishing village.
1845 after the British Colonial Tiny sampans dodge among 180 Wong Chuk Road, Aberdeen.
Secretary, the Earl of Aberdeen, the wooden fishing fleet and Tel (0852) 3923 2323. @ Ocean Park
the harbor housed Hong Kong’s the large, palatial floating City Bus from Central’s Star Ferry Pier
first dockyard, which was built restaurants. Pushy operators on or 6A, 6X, 70, 75, 90, 97, or 260. &
in the 1860s. the waterfront offer tours by Open 10am–8pm daily.
sampan that take visitors past ∑ oceanpark.com.hk
A short bus ride from Central the fishing boats, the
(see p316), the Aberdeen district houseboats, and small harbor- With the arrival of a mega
has a rather unattractive town side shipyards. competitor in the shape of
center, edged by massive, high- Lantau Island’s Disneyland (see
rise apartment blocks, commer- Alternatively, for a quicker p331), Ocean Park, Hong Kong’s
cial towers, and factories. What (and free) tour, jump aboard the first amusement park, has
it lacks in aesthetic appeal, shuttles to the floating restaurants fought back with more attrac-
however, it makes up for in moored here, such as the tions. It is much better than it
Jumbo Floating Restaurant. ever was, gives Disney a run for
its money, and attracts great
The garish Jumbo Floating Restaurant lights up Aberdeen Harbour crowds of people every day.
There is plenty to do for adults
and children alike, and it’s easy
to spend a day exploring the
eight themed areas of this
pleasant complex. The Waterfront
area is one of the most enjoy-
able sections, with a collection
of Asian animals, including the
theme park’s pride, four giant
pandas. A scenic cable car skirts
the edge of Deepwater Bay,

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HONG KONG 329

dropping passengers in
Marine World. Here, a large and
impressive aquarium captivates
visitors with close-up views
of schools of fish and an
underwater tunnel through
a tank of sharks. Numerous
thrilling rides are found
throughout the grounds,
including the Hair Raiser, the
dizzying Mine Train roller
coaster jutting out over the
sea, and Raging River, which
guarantees a good soaking.

The popular beach at the seaside town of Stanley

z Deep Water & blocks, inhabited by Hong c Stanley
Repulse Bays Kong’s business elite, surround
the long, well-tended beach at Hong Kong Island. @ 6, 6A, 6X, 260
Hong Kong Island. @ 6, 6A, 61, 260, Repulse Bay. The beach is a from Central’s Exchange Square bus
262 from Central’s Exchange Square popular summer destination station. ( 9am–6pm daily.
bus station. and gets very crowded in
Several good beaches line these season and on weekends. The This pre-colonial fishing village
two scenic bays located along pricey Verandah Restaurant – today resembles a British seaside
the road from Aberdeen to the only surviving section of the town, complete with English-
Stanley. Deep Water Bay is a stately Repulse Bay Hotel, which style pubs. The extensive sprawl
pretty spot favored by the was torn down in the 1980s – is of market stalls selling clothes,
wealthy, with many luxurious a good place for a drink or beachwear, silk, jade, trinkets,
houses. The long stretch of afternoon tea. Just behind the and furniture draws weekend
beach lined by cypress-like trees Verandah is a supermarket for crowds. The area also has a
is reminiscent of the French picnic supplies, and a few cafés. good selection of Thai, Italian,
Riviera. Upmarket apartment Spanish, Vietnamese, and
x Hong Kong Life Chinese restaurants.
Colossal statue of goddess Saving Society
Guanyin, Repulse Bay Beside the square is Murray
Repulse Bay, Hong Kong Island. House, a large, Neo-Classical
Open 7am–7pm daily. building, housing some fine
restaurants with bay views.
At the far southern end of Dismantled and rebuilt here in
Repulse Bay is the Hong Kong 1998, it originally stood on the
Life Saving Society. The site now occupied by the Bank
building also serves as a of China tower in Central. Next
temple, and is a great place for to it Tin Hau Temple, built in
children to explore. Garish 1767, is one of the island’s
statues – a menagerie of gods, oldest and most evocative
animals, and mythical beasts – shrines. The festival of Tin Hau
are scattered across the (see p51) is celebrated in late
grounds in amongst the life- April or early May with dances
saving equipment. Among the and boat races.
gods is a large statue of
Guanyin, the Boddhisattva of On the other side of town is
Mercy, to whom the temple is the beautifully kept Stanley
dedicated. Several other gods Cemetery, dating to the earliest
are represented, including a colonial days. It contains the
number of smiling bronze gravestones of early residents
Buddhas. Rubbing their bald and soldiers killed in World Wars
heads is said to bring good I and II, including those who
luck. Some believe that died in the Japanese
crossing the Bridge of concentration camp built
Longevity also adds three nearby. Stanley Beach, on the
days to a person’s life. other side of the peninsula,
is a long stretch of sand and
the venue for the local dragon
boat races.

330 THE SOUTH

n Lantau Island

g from Central (pier 6) to Mui Wo
(Silvermine Bay).

Lamma Island, with hilltop views of the sea and Hong Kong Island Twice the size of Hong Kong
Island, Lantau was ceded to
v Lamma Island to exploring the traditional the British in 1898 along with
shops and shrines along its the other islands and the New
g from Central (pier 4) and from narrow lanes and eating at the Territories. Despite the addition
Aberdeen (via Mo Tat). many seafood places at the of a bridge and the huge Chek
harbor’s edge on Pak She Praya Lap Kok airport, large tracts of
Good seafood restaurants and Road. The squid with shrimp the island still remain largely
pubs, a relaxed atmosphere, paste is a local speciality. The uninhabited, including two
pleasant hilltop walks, and the southern coast offers the best country parks in which are the
absence of cars make leafy, low- walks, with sea views and wood- peaks that form the island’s
key Lamma the perfect escape land pathways threading past backbone and numerous
from the city bustle. Its two crumbling colonial mansions. hiking trails.
main villages, Yung Shue Wan
on the west coast and The island’s earliest settlers Lantau’s seclusion has made
restaurant-packed Sok Kwu lived here some 2,500 years it a popular place for religious
Wan on the east coast, are a ago; their only surviving relics retreats. The most striking of
half-hour ferry ride from Central. are the geometric etchings on these is Po Lin Monastery,
Yung Shue Wan is an expat the rocks below Warwick located on a hilltop on the
stronghold with two or three Hotel. In the 19th century, the Ngong Ping plateau. The
English-style pubs and some island was a haven for pirates, monastery grounds are grand
good restaurants. A steep climb where the notorious Cheung and colorful, and the over-the-
leads to the hills above Yung Po-Tsai supposedly hid
Shue Wan, where there are fine plunder. The fishing Tai O Fishing Village
views of the sea and Hong Kong community is depleted today Traditional stilt houses cluster on
Island. Visitors can hike on the due to excessive fishing over the muddy banks of the small
path between the two villages, the past 50 years. estuary at this rural fishing
but should plan their walk settlement.
around the infrequent return Close to the harbor, the 1783
ferry from Sok Kwu Wan. Pak Tai Temple is dedicated to Tai O
The harbor here is also home the island’s patron deity, who is
to the Lamma Fisherfolk’s credited with saving islanders
Village, a fascinating floating from the plague in 1777. The
exhibition that looks at the annual Bun Festival (see p339) is
life of a fisherman and the skills celebrated here in May, when
and traditional techniques young men scale 26-ft (8-m)
of the trade. towers made entirely of buns.

b Cheung Chau
Island

g from Central (pier 5). _ Bun
Festival (May).

This charming island, just 45 Colorful sampans and fishing boats in 0 kilometers 2 2
minutes by ferry from Hong Cheung Chau harbor 0 miles
Kong Island, has plenty to offer,
from paddling near its beaches

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HONG KONG 331

top, gaudy main temple is well The Big Buddha at Po Lin Monastery point for a gentle walk to a
worth a visit. The Big Buddha, Trappist Monastery. Its chapel
an 85-ft (26-m) statue perched saltpans are being used as fish- is open to visitors willing to
at the top of a 268-step flight of breeding ponds. Tai O has a observe the vow of silence
stairs, is the monastery’s biggest few temples and many shops taken by the monks.
draw. Since the Buddha’s selling live seafood and dried
consecration in 1993, the fish, the local speciality. Lantau’s popular attraction,
monastery has been overrun the multi-billion dollar Hong
with tourists. There are also To the west of the island, Kong Disneyland, is modeled
bauhinia and orchid gardens Discovery Bay is the starting after the original Disneyland in
and basic vegetarian food in California, and the 311-acre
two canteens. (126-ha) area includes a park
featuring Mickey Mouse and his
The area around Ngong Ping friends, as well as original
is also a great place for walks attractions designed especially
and picnics. Keen hikers stay at for Hong Kong, themed hotels,
the SG Davis Youth Hostel an arboretum, and a retail and
before making a pre-dawn hike dining center.
up Lantau Peak to watch the
spectacular sunrise.  Ngong Ping & The Big Buddha
@ Bus 2. Also taxi or cable car from
At the island’s western end, Tung Chung MTR.
the sleepy fishing village of
Tai O has narrow streets and  Disneyland
tiny residences reminiscent of q MTR to Disneyland Resort via
rural China. Once a major salt Sunny Bay station.
trading center, today the old

Tung Chung is Hong Kong Disneyland is built Yam O
connected to Po Lin on reclaimed land, which was
Monastery by a 4-mile once Penny’s Bay.
(6-km) cable car.

Hong Kong
International

Airport

Discovery Bay

Tung Discovery Bay is a
Chung slightly surreal dormitory
community, where
Ngong Ping residents get about in
golf buggies. A jet ferry
connects to Central.

Lin Fa Shan Mui Wo

Po Lin Tai Tung Shan Mui Wo, the island’s
Monastery Pui O main pier, has several
restaurants and bars as
Lantau well as a beach.
Peak

Shek Pik Cheung Chi Ma Wan Cheung Sha’s clean, sandy
Reservoir Sha Peninsula and often deserted beach, is
Tong Fuk one of Hong Kong’s best.

Lantau Peak Key
The only way up this 3,065-ft
(934-m) high peak is via a National highway
steep path through tea Major road
gardens. It is an ideal spot for Minor road
watching the sunrise. Railroad

For additional map symbols see back flap

332 THE SOUTH

m Macau barracks until it was destroyed by
a fire in 1835. Only extensive

structural work in the 1990s

An hour by ferry from Hong Kong, Macau was once seen as stopped the façade from
principally a sleepy side-trip offering a break from the buzz and crumbling. The attached museum
bustle of the British enclave. Economically backward, it traded houses paintings, sculptures, and
relics from Macau’s churches.

on the preservation of colonial-era buildings and as a gambling P The Old Protestant
weekend resort. But even before the Portuguese colony’s Cemetery
return to China in 1999, two years after Hong Kong, a complete Praca Luis de Camões.
restructuring of the tiny territory was underway, with vast Open 9am–5:30pm daily.
public works projects including harbor reclamation, an airport,
The gravestones at this cemetery

new bridges, and the fusing of the islands Taipa and Coloane at the corner of the Camões

into one. The connecting land, known as the Cotai Strip, is Gardens are crammed with
filling up with luxurious hotel-casinos, anchored by a copy of fascinating historical details that
Las Vegas’s The Venetian, with sampans floating amongst the give some wonderful insights
gondolas. Macau now out-glitzes neighboring Hong Kong. into the lives led by early
colonists. Many of them were

Britons, who traded, married, or

fought in and around Macau

P Ruinas de São Paulo before Hong Kong was

Rua de São Paulo. established as a

Open daily. British territory.

All that is left of this Among the notable

once grand cathedral, people buried here

built by the Jesuits are Robert Morrison,

and perched precar- the first Protestant

iously atop a steep missionary to venture

flight of steps, is to China, and the

its magnificent, artist George

crumbling façade. Its Chinnery. The

Historic cannons on the ramparts of most outstanding gravestones speak

Fortaleza do Monte features are the of short but heroic

ornate figures on the lives, such as that of

P Fortaleza do Monte façade, comprising a Gravestone, Old the brave Lieutenant

Rua de Monte. Open 7am–7pm daily. “sermon in stone” Protestant Cemetery Fitzgerald killed after

Macau Museum Praceta do Museu that records some of “gallantly storming” a
de Macao, No 112. Tel (0853) 2835 the main events from the gun battery at Canton (now
7911. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Christian scriptures. Guangzhou). The inscription on
(but free on 15th of each month). Robert Morrison’s tomb states
The cathedral was built by

Built between 1617 and 1626, Japanese Christian converts, who that he produced the first

this fortress housed the original fled to Macau in the 16th century Chinese version of the Old and

Portuguese settlement at Macau. following religious repression. In New Testaments. The adjoining

Its thick ramparts, surmounted the 18th century, Macau also Camões Gardens are named

by ancient cannons, still occupy expelled the Jesuits, and the after the renowned Portuguese

a commanding position and building was converted into poet Luis Vaz de Camões, the

appear as invincible as they did author of the 16th-century epic

in 1622, when the invading The Lusiads.

Dutch forces were defeated.

Dug into the hill beneath the P Guia Fort & Lighthouse

fort is the informative Macau Estrada de Cacilhas. Tel (0853) 2859

Museum. Its escalators and 5481. Open 9am–5:30pm daily.

stairs are an air-conditioned The Guia Fort was built between

route to the hill-top fortress 1622 and 1638, and offers great

passing through re-creations of views over the town. Initially it

Portuguese and Chinese life. served as a fort to defend the

Beginning with the arrival of border with China, but in 1865 a

Portuguese traders and Jesuit lighthouse was added. A

missionaries, the exhibitions pleasant way to get here is to

compare the two cultures at the take the cable car to the hilltop.

time of contact and cover the A small chapel stands next door

development of Macau and its The magnificent façade of the Ruinas and there are several gentle

unique traditions. de São Paulo walking trails around the hill.

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

MACAU 333

Colonial façade on Largo do Senado roulette, and keno VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(bingo), as well as some
P The Venetian Chinese games, Practical Information
Cotai Strip. Tel (0853) 2882 8888. including the dice * 560,000. n 9 Largo de
∑ venetianmacao.com game dai sui and the Senado, (0853) 2831 5566. _
mahjong-style pai kao. Macau Arts Festival (May).
Inspired by The Venetian in Las Gambling is Macau’s ∑ macautourism. gov.mo
Vegas, Macau’s most spectacular lifeblood, contributing
hotel-casino recreates a more than half the Transport
miniature Venice, complete with government’s revenue. k Taipa Island, about a mile
campanile, Rialto Bridge, and Macau also hosts horse (2 km) South. g Macau Ferry
gondolas with singing racing, held twice a Terminal, Avenida Amizade
gondoliers. The mega-resort is week, and greyhound (ferries to Hong Kong, Hong Kong
suites-only and offers themed racing, four times a Airport, and Shenzhen Airport). @
shopping as well as a theater week (see p338).
seating up to 1800 people. P Praia Grande
There is the usual array of slot P Largo do Senado Perhaps the best way to get a
machines, blackjack, baccarat, The symbolic heart of flavor of Macau’s colonial
Macau, the Largo do architecture is to take a stroll on
Senado or Senate the Avenida de Praia Grande.
Square has numerous Although land reclamation has
stately colonial encroached on the waterfront
buildings set around it, and robbed the Praia Grande of
including the Leal Senado or some of its elegance, it is still a
Loyal Senate, which now charming place with many
houses the municipal grand houses still in excellent
government, the General Post condition. The monument to
Office, and the Santa Casa de Jorge Alvares, the first Portu-
Misericordia, an old refuge for guese explorer to reach China,
orphans and prostitutes. There stands near the corner of
are also numerous restaurants Avenida do Dr. Mario Soares.
and the tourist office. The One of the most handsome
striking, wavy black and white buildings is the old Governor’s
tile patterns snaking across the Residence. Although it is not
square make it a great place to open to the public as it is a
take photographs by day or private residence, a good view
floodlit by night. can be had from the road.

Macau City Center A. DCEOHSTOARTA DAAVEANMIDIZAADE
E
1 Fortaleza do Monte
2 Ruinas de São Paulo RUA DASRUEDDOAPARTIBAENIREA DEOSTRREAPDOAUSO SIDORIO AVD. ADAAMPOIZNATDEE
3 The Old Protestant LORCHAS
R U A D ORDUOCAAAFEMRMR.ARPDREAIAOLLRMAIRAANVTPEEAIDCSEOSTA CABRAL Colina
Cemetery
4 Guia Fort & Lighthouse The Old da Guia
5 The Venetian
6 Largo do Senado Protestant ODRIGUES Hong Kong
7 Praia Grande
8 Rua da Felicidade Cemetery Pier Porto
9 Maritime Museum
0 Pousada São Tiago Ruinas de & LigGhutihaoFuoDsRre.tRODRIGO R Exterior
q Macau Tower São Paulo AVEAVDEADROA.DCME ISDIZIANADTDREEA
w The Barra Fortaleza Macau
A. ARVIBEEIRO do Monte Peninsula
Maritime
Museum DE Largo
do Senado
Pousada de HINENFARNAIQTVUEEED.
São TiagoRUA D LO.PAELRREIMUIRARAADMNOATRDERQ.SUEÉSRGIO PONNOTBERGE ODVEECRANRAVDAOLRHOE . DA PRAIA GRANDE Central Ponte de
P. ANTONIO RUFAELDICAIDA Macau

Praia Amizade

The Grande Ponte Gov.
R U A Barra Lagos de Nobre de Carvalho

Nam Van Taipa Village Taipa
AV Island

L I CA . SUN YATSEN Macau
UB International
D A REP Lago The Venetian Airport

Sai Van AVE. DR Taipa,

A Cotai Strip Cotai Strip

and Coloane Coloane
Island
V Macau
Tower

Coloane Village

0 meters 800
0 yards 800

Key to Symbols see back flap

334 THE SOUTH

P Rua da Felicidade
A variety of sweet scents waft
from the Rua da Felicidade or
“Street of Happiness,” where
tasty and colorful Macanese
biscuits and cakes are baked
and sold. The area once teemed
with brothels, hence its
somewhat ironically bestowed
name. Today, it is a charming,
cobbled street lined with small
eateries, which makes it a good
place for a quick lunch stop.

A scale model of a Chinese junk, Maritime Museum

E Maritime Museum on which it stood in the 17th Hong Kong’s surrounding
Largo do Pagode da Barra 1.
Tel (0853) 2859 5481. Open century. The chapel to São islands on a clear day. It is,
10am–6pm Wed–Mon. &
∑ museumaritimo.gov.mo Tiago, Portugal’s patron saint of however, not the ideal place for

Small-scale but interesting soldiers, remains to this day. those who don’t like heights.
exhibits make this museum
worth a visit for insights into The structure is more a rocky Glass-sided elevators rocket
Macau’s maritime past upon
which its wealth was built. grotto than a smart hotel, visitors skywards, and the
Displays include models of
Chinese junks, Portuguese which only adds to its charm. restaurants and viewing
ships and fishing boats, a mock
Hakka village (see p296), a A natural spring runs galleries at the top are also
dragon boat, and a small
aquarium. There is also a nice through the lobby and the partially glass-bottomed. For
bar on the esplanade outside,
open during museum hours. corridors are paved with the truly adventurous, it is

P Pousada São Tiago flagstones. Its rooms are possible to don overalls and a
Avenida da Republica Fortaleza de
São Tiago da Barra. Tel (0853) 2837 traditionally decorated in harness, and explore parts of
8111. ∑ saotiago.com.mo
Portuguese style. The hotel the tower’s exterior with the

also runs a good restaurant, adventure sports company,

La Paloma. A.J. Hackett, which runs a

number of activities,

P Macau Tower including bungy trampo-

Largo da Torre de Macau. lining and a dizzying skywalk

Tel (0853) 2893 3339. Open around the tower’s

10am–9pm Mon–Fri, The modern Macau outer rim at a height
9am–9pm Sat & Sun. Tower of over 764 ft (233 m).
∑ macautower.com.mo

Well worth a visit for a drink on The Macau Tower, the P The Barra
the terrace, a night’s stay, or a peninsula’s most visible Located south of Senado
meal at its restaurant, this tiny attraction, is 1,107 ft (338 m) Square, Rua Central and Rua P.
but enchanting hotel was once high. The tower provides a great Antonio cut through the Barra
a fortress hewn from the rock view; in fact, visitors can see district, where Macau’s first
European residents settled. A
Avenida da Republica, near the Pousada São Tiago 40-minute walk through
narrow streets sided with old
colonial buildings will bring
you to the classical bright
green front of Teatro Dom
Pedro V dating back to 1873.
Farther down, São Laurenço is
a plain but beautifully
proportioned church set high
off the street. Eventually you
reach tiny Largo do Lilau, a
pretty cobbled square with
a fountain and the restored
Mandarin’s House dating
from 1881. Another 1,640 ft
(500 m) along, the finely
collonaded Quartel dos
Mouros, once a Muslim
barracks, is now a post office.
Beyond lies the A-Ma Temple,
Macau’s oldest.

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

MACAU 335

Regional Food: Macau

When the Portuguese arrived in Macau 450 years ago, the peninsula was virtually
uninhabited. They cooked using Portuguese methods, but with local Chinese
ingredients and southeast Asian herbs and spices picked up from their other outposts
in Africa, Goa, Malacca, Indonesia, and Japan. As the years went by, and links home were
established, some of the grander families stuck with Portuguese recipes made with the
traditionally correct ingredients, while the less well-off incorporated more Cantonese-
style dishes and ingredients, and over time the two cuisines fused together to form a
separate Macanese cuisine.

almonds, chorizo (paprika Other Influences
sausage), rabbit, and saffron.
Other non-Chinese foods that The other obvious change to
are available are bread, cakes, Cantonese cuisine is the more
cheese, olives, and coffee. generous use of herbs and
Macau is also home to a well- spices: coriander and chilies in
developed wine culture, and peri-peri dishes from Africa;
naturally almost all the wines fish sauce from SE Asia; hot
on offer are Portuguese. These and spicy curries from Goa;
are generally better quality feijoada and sweet potatoes
than on the mainland and from Brazil; tamarind from
even better value. Malacca.

King prawns Coconut milk

Fish sauce

A selection of Cantonese sweetmeats in Bacalhau Fresh chilies
a Macau shop A selection of typical Macanese ingredients

Portuguese

Bacalhau is the most
famous Portuguese
ingredient. This dried and
salted cod is integral to Iberian
cookery and in Macau is
cooked in every way possible.
Distinguishing other Portug-
uese influences is difficult
but good signs include the
liberal use of olive oil,

Regional Dishes and Specialties

There are very few totally Cantonese-inspired

dishes in the Macanese cuisine. Tacho – a

winter casserole of beef, pork, chicken

and Chinese sausage is perhaps the

most Cantonese of all Macanese

dishes. As expected, bacalhau dishes

Saffron strands feature prominently. There are Bacalhau
Guisado (Salted Cod Stew), Bacalhau a Gomes

de Sa (Salted Cod in Gomes de Sa Style), and

Pasteis de Bacalhau (Salted Cod Cake) to name just a few. Other

popular dishes include Caril de Camarao (Shrimp Curry). There Galinha Africana (African
Chicken) derives from a West
are traditional Portuguese dishes like Caldo Verde (Cabbage and African recipe in which char-
grilled chicken is coated in a
Potato Stew) and Carne de Porco a Algarvia (Braised Pork with spicy peanut and coconut sauce
then roasted.
Clams). At first sight, Pasteis de Nata (Egg Tartlets) look similar to

the Cantonese ones in Hong Kong, but they taste quite different

and have a flakier pastry shell.

336 THE SOUTH

Shopping in Hong Kong Macau (see pp332–5), immedi-
& Macau ately to the south of the Ruinas
de São Paulo.

Label-mad Hong Kong is a paradise for shoppers, and is Electronics, Cameras &
jammed with opportunities to buy from swanky designer Computers
boutiques in modern shopping malls to inexpensive street
markets. It is a competitive destination for some electronic Tsim Sha Tsui as well as the rest
and computing items as well as good-quality, custom-made of Kowloon are generally the
suits, shirts and cheongsams – the tight-fitting, traditional places to head to for electronics
Chinese silk dresses. Visitors are unlikely to find good and gadgetry. Once the bargain
bargains, however, especially if comparing prices with those basement of international
in China. Hong Kong’s main advantage, though, is the sheer, electronics retail, Nathan Road
unrivaled profusion of items on sale. Don’t be afraid to haggle is still packed with camera and
in markets and smaller stores, though prices are usually fixed electronics outlets, but prices
in smarter shops and department stores. aren’t as competitive as they
once were. Be wary, as there are
Markets with its massive extended numerous tales of less-than-
malls containing hundreds of honest vendors. If you plan to
Street markets are one of individual shops, even dwarfs shop here anyway, do your
the best bargain-hunting the big liners that dock near homework, make sure you
grounds in Hong Kong, as long the Star Ferry at Tsim Sha Tsui compare like for like, ask
as you’re prepared to sift in Kowloon. Across Victoria questions (ensuring that your
through the ever-present fake Harbour on Hong Kong Island, purchase is compatible with
designer goods. The Temple The Landmark in Central and your home country’s voltage),
Street Night Market (see p323) Pacific Place in Admiralty are and you may find a bargain.
in Yau Ma Tei is perhaps the the places to head to for
most celebrated for its designer clothing labels such Star House, opposite the
atmosphere, its prices and the as Prada, Versace, and Zegna, bus terminal and the Star Ferry
range of accessories, clothes, and super-chic consumables at Tsim Sha Tsui, is convenient
trinkets, and other memorabilia. from Vuitton, Bulgari, and and contains about 20
The Jade Market, near the night Tiffany. Sogo at Causeway Bay computer boutiques on its
market, sells exactly what it (see p317) is another mammoth second floor. Farther north, the
advertises. The market at department store, while Island Mongkok Computer Centre
Stanley (see p329), on Hong Beverley, nearby, crams houses more retailers. Its prices
Kong Island’s southern coast, is hundreds of small outlets into are generally lower than other
as much fun for the trip out on its dozen or so floors, and sells stores, and visitors can try
the dramatic winding roads modish street fa bargaining. However, if you
across the island. It is a good shion at affordable prices. would like to keep your
place to shop for touristy arts, shopping more straight-
crafts, clothes, and accessories. Antiques & Jewelry forward, the Fortress chain
stores are reasonably priced and
Western Market is a more Hollywood Road (see p320) in a safe bet for cameras and
sedate place, located in the Central is best for antiques, and handhelds. They will provide
western district of Sheung is full of emporia selling every- warranties and guidance on
Wan. The handsome colonial- thing from huge terracotta foreign voltages.
era building outshines the tomb guards to delicate little
nondescript restaurants on snuff bottles. Established names Chinese Arts & Crafts
the ground floor, while the include Honeychurch Antiques
middle floor, spilling over with specializing in wooden carvings, There’s little doubt that the
huge bolts of fabric in every bracelets, and necklaces, wares on offer in Yue Hwa can
color and stripe, offers the Gorgeous Arts & Crafts, which be found at a much cheaper
best deals on lengths of silk stocks, among other things, price over the border, but it is a
in Hong Kong. antique hats and hairpins, and convenient place to go to when
Dragon Culture, offering a buying last-minute presents. The
Shopping Centers, Malls good selection of pottery, store in Jordan is packed with silk
& Department Stores bamboo carvings, and snuff goods, carvings, ceramics, jade,
bottles. EXIT is a good and teapots. The Lok Cha Tea
Even seasoned department place to find works by new Shop, on Queen’s Road Central
store junkies can overdose Asian artists. There are also in Sheung Wan, is a cosy, friendly
on the huge variety available some good antique shops in place, where visitors can sample
in Hong Kong’s sprawling delicate green and jasmine teas
shopping malls. Harbour City, and buy some exquisite
traditional teapots. Bargain
teapots can also be found at

HONG KONG & MACAU 337

Macau’s Culture Club. For a clothes and home decor with as David’s Shirts at the
modern take on Chinese style, a contemporary twist. For Mandarin Oriental or the
the upmarket G.O.D. (Goods of Europeans who despair of renowned Sam’s Tailor, who
Desire) chain offers smart inte- finding essentials in their size, has made elegant outfits for
rior goods at reasonable prices. there is always the well-known an illustrious clientele. For end-
British Marks & Spencer chain of-line designer bargains, it’s
Clothes of stores. best to head to the Citygate
Outlets mall in Tung Chung,
Needless to say, the malls and Party-goers may want home to a collection of brand-
department stores are the best to sift through the stylish, name outlets.
places for clothes. However, modern and retro street fashion
Joyce is also a good destination offerings at the independent Hong Kong’s markets are
for shoppers seeking a large boutiques in King Wah awash with fake designer wear,
range of smart labels under one Building in Mongkok. Legen- whose quality and cut are often
roof. Great value Gap-style dary for its tailors and shirt far inferior to the real thing.
clothing can be found at one of makers, Hong Kong is still the If looking for authentic labels, it
the many Giordano stores in place to come. Take a chance is best to avoid the street
town. Shanghai Tang in Central with the ever-present street markets altogether, and shop
offers traditional Chinese stores in Tsim Sha Tsui or go only at the larger department
for established names such stores and boutiques.

DIRECTORY

Markets Pacific Place Mongkok David’s Shirts
88 Queensway. Map 3 D4. Computer Centre M17, Mandarin Oriental,
Jade Market Tel (0852) 2844 8988. 8a Nelson St, Mongkok. Queen’s Rd Central.
Kansu & Battery Sts, q Mongkok. Map 2 C3.
Yau Ma Tei. Sogo Tel (0852) 2384 6823. Tel (0852) 2524 2979.
Map 1 B1. 555 Hennessy Rd,
Open 10am–3:30pm Causeway Bay. Star House Giordano
daily. Tel (0852) 2833 8338. 3 Salisbury Rd. Map 1 A5. Shop 4, Grd Floor,
q Causeway Bay. China Building, 29
Stanley Market Chinese Arts & Queen’s Rd Central.
Stanley, Antiques & Crafts Map 2 C3.
Hong Kong Island. Jewelry Tel (0852) 2921 2028.
Open 9am–6pm daily. Culture Club
Dragon Culture 390 & 398 Avenida Joyce
Temple Street 231 Hollywood Rd, Central. Almeida Ribeiro, Macau. 232 Pacific Pl, Admiralty.
Night Market Map 2 A2. Tel (0853) 921 811. Tel (0852) 2523 5944.
Temple St, Yau Ma Tei. Tel (0852) 2545 8098.
Map 1 B2. G.O.D. King Wah Building
Open 6pm–midnight EXIT 48 Hollywood Rd, Central. 628 Nathan Rd, Mongkok.
daily. 3/F, 25 Hing Wo St, Tel (0852) 2805 1876. q Mongkok.
Tin Wan, Aberdeen. Map 2 B3.
Western Market Tel (0852) 2541 1299. Shop 105, Stanley Plaza, Marks & Spencer
Des Voeux Rd Central, Stanley. Times Square,
Sheung Wan. Map 2 A2. Gorgeous Arts Tel (0852) 2673 0071. 1 Matheson St.
Open 10am–7pm daily. & Crafts Map 1 A4.
Upper Ground Floor, Lok Cha Tea Shop Tel (0852) 2923 7972.
Shopping 30 Hollywood Rd, Central. 290b Queen’s Rd Central, q Causeway Bay.
Centers, Malls Map 2 B3. Sheung Wan. Central Tower, 24–28
& Department Tel (0852) 2973 0034. Map 2 A2. Queen’s Rd Central.
Stores Tel (0852) 2805 1360. Map 2 C3.
Honeychurch Tel (0852) 2921 8323.
Harbour City Antiques Yue Hwa
3 Canton Rd, Tsim Sha 29 Hollywood Rd, Central. 301–309 Nathan Rd, Sam’s Tailor
Tsui. Map 1 A4. Map 2 B3. Jordan. Burlington Arcade, Shop K,
Tel (0852) 2118 8666. Tel (0852) 2543 2433. Map 1 B1. 94 Nathan Rd,
Tel (0852) 3511 2222. Tsim Sha Tsui.
Island Beverley Electronics, Map 1 B4.
1 Great George St, Cameras & Clothes Tel (0852) 2367 9423.
Causeway Bay. Computers
q Causeway Bay. Citygate Outlets Shanghai Tang
Fortress 20 Tat Tung Rd, Tung Shanghai Tang Mansion,
The Landmark Shop 3320, The Gateway, Chung. Tel (0852) 2109 1 Duddell St, Central.
12–16 Des Voeux Rd Harbour City, 2933. q Tung Chung. Map 2 C3.
Central. Map 2 C3. Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tel (0852) 2525 7333.
Tel (0852) 2526 4416. Map 1 A4.
Tel (0852) 2116 1022.

338 THE SOUTH

Entertainment in Hong Kong architecture exhibitions and
& Macau runs a busy calendar of music,
theater, opera, and dance,
Hong Kong’s entertainment options are incredible. There are particularly in May during
several good venues attracting local and international Macau’s arts festival.
musicians, Chinese opera groups, and theater and comedy
shows, particularly during the arts festival in February and Sports
March. The city’s nightlife has begun to boom, and bars,
dance venues, pubs, and music clubs are plentiful. The younger Spring heralds the start of
crowd have discovered an appetite for house and techno the dragon boating season
music, although they retain their liking for Cantopop, the check the HKTB for event
older pop genre. Karaoke bars are also a favorite with locals. details. The Rugby Sevens
tournament in March is a huge,
Macau, although a lot quieter, is the place to go to for boisterous event for Hong
serious gambling or to eat at its excellent restaurants. Kong’s expats, many of whom
see its main purpose as an
Entertainment Guides Nightclubs opportunity to drink large
quantities of beer. For those
Visitors will be spoilt for choice Nightclubs vary hugely from interested in the actual game,
in terms of good listings in down-at-heel, free-to-enter 50 matches are played by the
Hong Kong. Perhaps the best is clubs that just play music to assembled internationals in 72
the free, weekly HK Magazine, slick, cutting edge venues for hours. Hong Kong is also host
available in most cafés and the rich and famous. Cover to a number of professional
bars across the city, that offers prices vary but a typical mid- tennis tournaments from
a thorough guide to eating, range fee would be around October to December.
drinking, shopping, and HK$100. Looking out over
entertainment. The Friday Wyndham Street, Dragon-i is a Gambling
edition of the South China smart club with an exclusive
Morning Post is another reputation, playing dance music Horse racing at the tracks
good listings guide. The and often hosting international in Sha Tin and Happy
Hong Kong edition of Time disc jockeys. Volar in D’Aguilar Valley (see p317) is the only
Out is another great source Street is great for house music. spectator sport where you can
of local information. Drop, Beijing Club and Billion gamble legally in Hong Kong. It
are also popular clubs. is the biggest such spectator
event in the region and race
Bars & Pubs Music & Arts Venues days or nights are well worth
attending for the sheer
The places to find many of There’s no shortage of atmosphere alone. Macau also
the best clubs, bars and pubs venues for large musical, has its own, less fevered horse
in Hong Kong are in Lan Kwai operatic, and dramatic racing nights as well as an
Fong (see p320) near Central, productions. These include the excellent greyhound racing
along Wyndham Street, and Cultural Centre, that sometimes track, the rather grandly titled
SoHo. Goccia, in Wyndham offers free concerts, the Hong Canidrome. Macau, of course,
Street, is always full of Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition is best known for its glitzy
Kong’s most beautiful people. Centre in Wan Chai and the casinos, running all day and
Le Jardin, located around Hong Kong Coliseum in Hung night. The most spectacular of
the corner, is less frenetic Hom. Close to the Coliseum, the them is The Venetian, complete
than nearby Lan Kwai Fong, Ko Shan Theatre is the place to with miniature campanile,
and quiet enough to have a go for Chinese opera and Rialto Bridge, gondolas, and
conversation in. If you want orchestral music performances. themed shopping.
to drink with the jet-set, there The Hong Kong Arts Centre,
are a number of super-smart The Fringe Club, and The Hong Children’s Entertainment
bars including Felix above Kong Academy of the
the Peninsula Hotel with Performing Arts all offer more Hong Kong’s favorite attractions
sensational harbor views. intimate venues for an excellent are two state-of-the-art
Alternatively, try SEVVA in and diverse range of arts from amusement parks: Ocean Park
Central’s Prince’s Building, or dance to stand-up comedy. The (see p328), the region’s oldest
the fashionable Drop in SoHo, Wanch is a tiny place that hosts amusement park, and
which turns into a club later local folk and indie acts. Disneyland (see p331), offering a
in the evening. For a more laid- massive range of rides,
back drink in a pleasant The Macau Cultural attractions and entertainment.
organic café, head to Life, just Centre is also worth a visit. Up in the New Territories,
off the Escalator in SoHo. It houses art, history and Kadoorie Farm & Botanic
Garden (see p327) has a small

HONG KONG & MACAU 339

zoo of orphaned native animals, market and there are huge piles of buns offered,
including muntjac deer and spectacular harbor fireworks some say, to the unhappy spirits
wild cats. In a similar vein, but that rival any display in the of victims of the island’s pirate
much more central is the world. The Birthday of Tin Hau, past, and a procession of
enchanting Edward the Goddess of the Sea, is more “floating” children, carried aloft
Youde Aviary in Hong Kong low key. Parades and lion on hidden poles. The Dragon
Park, which is built to resemble dances take place at the larger Boat Festival in June is marked
a tropical rainforest and has temples, including the one at with a great flourish, making it
elevated walkways. Joss House Bay in the New one of the region’s most
Territories, and temples and exciting events. Other
Traditional Festivals fishing boats are decorated all traditional festivals celebrated
over Hong Kong. The Cheung in Hong Kong include the
One of Hong Kong’s Chau Bun Festival in May is a Hungry Ghost Festival in
grandest annual celebrations is fun week-long celebration on mid/late August and the Mid-
the Chinese New Year. Victoria Cheung Chau Island (see p330). Autumn Festival in late
Park becomes a huge open-air It culminates in the eating of September/early October.

DIRECTORY

Hong Kong Nightclubs Hong Kong Arts Happy Valley
Tourism Board Centre Racecourse
(HKTB) Beijing Club 2 Harbour Rd, Wan Chai. Happy Valley,
2–8 Wellington St, Central Map 3 E3. Hong Kong Island.
Hong Kong International Map 2 B3 Tel (0852) 2582 0200. Tel (0853) 1817.
Airport Arrivals Hall. Tel (0852) 2810 9983 ∑ hkac.org.hk ∑ hkjc.com/english
Kowloon: Star Ferry ∑ beijingclub.com.hk
Concourse. Map 1 5A. Hong Kong Coliseum Sha Tin Racecourse
Tel (0852) 2508 1234. Billion 9 Cheong Wan Rd, Hung Tel (0853) 1817.
∑ discoverhongkong. 3/F, On Hing Building, Hom, Kowloon. ∑ hkjc.com
com On Hing Terrace, Central Tel (0852) 2355 7233.
Map 2 B3 £ Hung Hom KCR. Children’s
Bars & Pubs Tel (0852) 2973 9018 ∑ lcsd.gov.hk/hkc Entertainment
∑ billionclub.com.hk
Drop Hong Kong Disneyland
Basement, On Lok Dragon-i Convention & Penny’s Bay,
Mansion, 39–43 Hollywood The Centrium, 60 Exhibition Centre Lantau Island.
Rd, Central (entrance on Wyndham St. Map 2 B3. 1 Expo Drive. Map 3 F3. Tel (0852) 2203 2000.
Cochrane St). Tel (0852) 3110 1222. Tel (0852) 2582 8888. q Penny’s Bay.
Map 3 B3. ∑ dragon-i.com.hk ∑ hkcec.com.hk ∑ hongkong
Tel (0852) 2543 8856. disneyland.com
Volar Ko Shan Theatre
Felix 44 D’Aguilar St, Central. 77 Ko Shan Road, Edward Youde Aviary
Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Map 2 B3. Hung Hom. Hong Kong Park, Cotton
Road. Map 1 B4. Tel (0852) 2810 1510. Tel (0852) 2740 9212. Tree Drive, Central.
Tel (0852) 2315 3188. ∑ volar.com.hk ∑ lcsd.gov.hk/kst Map 2 C4.
Tel (0852) 2521 5041.
Goccia Music & Arts Macau Cultural ∑ lcsd.gov.hk/parks
Shop 1 & 2, G/F 73 Venues Centre
Wyndham St. Av. Xian Xing Hai S/N Kadoorie Farm &
Map 2 B3. Hong Kong Cultural NAPE, Macau. Botanic Garden
Tel (0852) 2167 8181. Centre Tel (0853) 28700 699. Lam Kam Rd, New
L5, Auditoria Building, 10 ∑ ccm.gov.mo/ Territories.
Le Jardin Salisbury Rd. Map 1 B5. Tel (0852) 2483 7200.
10 Wing Wah Lane, Tel (0852) 2734 2009. The Wanch ∑ kfbg.org.hk
Central. Map 2 B3. ∑ lcsd.gov.hk 54 Jaffe Road, Wan Chai.
Tel (0852) 2526 2717. Map 3 F4.
The Fringe Club Tel (0852) 2861 1621.
Life 2 Lower Albert Rd, Central. ∑ thewanch.hk
10 Shelley Street, SoHo. Map 2 C3.
Map 2 B3. Tel (0852) 2521 7251. Gambling
Tel (0852) 2810 9777. ∑ hkfringe.com.hk
The Canidrome
SEVVA Hong Kong Academy Avenida General Castelo
25/F, Prince’s Building, for Performing Arts Branco, Macau.
Chater St, Central. 1 Gloucester Rd, Wan Chai. Tel (0853) 2833 3399.
Map 2 C3. Map 3 E3.
Tel (0852) 2537 1388. Tel (0852) 2584 8500.
∑ sevva.hk ∑ hkapa.edu

340 HONG KONG STREET FINDER

HONG KONG STREET FINDER

CROSS HARBOUR TUNNELCOIGNE RDM RD NORTH Key to Street Finder
GAS NATHAN ROADT CHATHA
HARBOUWRESCTREORSNSING CHATHAM RD SOU HUNG HOM RD Place of interest
EWEXSPTREKSOSWWLAOYONHA H Other important building
Train station
SALISBURY RD MTR station
Bus station
CONCNEANUTRGAHLT RD Victoria Harbour Ferry terminal
Tram station
RCOURT ROAD GLOUCESTER ROAD Tourist information
Police station
Hospital
Temple
Railroad
Tramline

HW ONG NAI C
UNG R D
Scale of Maps 1–3

0 meters 250

0 yards 250

Street Finder Index

A D J N Seymour Rd 2 A3

Aberdeen St 2 A3 D’Aguilar St 2 B3 Jade St 1 A2 Nanking St 1 A2 Shanghai St 1 B1, 1 B2
continues 2 B3 Jaffe Rd 3 F4
2 B4 Des Voeux Rd Jervois St 2 A2 continues 1 B2 continues 1 B2
Albany Rd 2 B3 Johnston Rd 3 E4, 3 F4
Arbuthnot Rd 3 E4 Central 2 B2, 2 C3 Jordan Path 1 C2 Nathan Rd (The Golden Shelley St 2 A3, 2 B3
Arsenal St 1 B4 Jordan Rd 1 A2, 1 B2
Ashley Rd 1 C3 Drake St 3 D3, 3 D4 Jubilee St 2 B2 Mile) 1 B1 Ship St 3 E4
Austin Ave 1 B3
Austin Rd 1 C3 continues 1 B2, 1 B3 Spring Garden Lane 3 F4

continues E Ning Po St 1 B2 Stanley St 2 B3

Edinburgh Place 3 D3 Star St 3 E4
Elgin St 2 B3
O Staunton St 2 B3

K Observatory Rd 1 C3 Stone Nullah Lane 3 F4
2 B4
F Kansu St 1 B1 Old Peak Rd 2 A5 Swatow St 3 F4
continues
B Fenwick St 3 E3 Kennedy Rd 2 C4 T
continues 3 E4
Barker Rd 2 B5, 2C5 1 A2 continues 3 D4, 3 E4 Tai Pang Shan St 2 A2
Ferry St 2 A5, 2 B5
Battery St 1 A2 Findlay Rd 3 F3, 3 F4 Kimberley Rd 1 B3, 1 C3 P Tak Hini St 1 B2
Fleming Rd
Bonham Strand Kimberley St 1 C3 Pak Hoi St 1 A2 Tak Shing St 1 B2

East 2 A2, 2 B2 Knutsford Terrace 1 B3 continues 1 B2 Tamar St 3 D3

Bonham Strand continues 1 C3 Parkes St 1 B2, 1 B3 Temple St 1B1

West 2 A2 G Kowloon Park Drive 1 B4 Peak Rd 2 A5 continues 1B2, 1 B3

Borrett Rd 3 D5 Gage St 2 B3 Pedder St 2 C3 Thomson Rd 3 F4

Bowen Rd 2 C4 Garden Rd 2 C3, 2 C4 L Peel St 2 B3 Tia Yuen St 3 F4

Bowring St 1 A2 Gascoigne Rd 1 C2 Ladder St 2 A2, 2 A3 Peking Rd 1 B4 Tregunter Path Rd 2 B5

continues 1 B2 Gloucester Rd 3 E3 Lan Kwai Fong 2 B3 Pier Rd 2 B2

Bridges St 2 A3 continues 3 F3 Lee Tung St 3 F4 Pilkem St 1 B3 U

Lock Rd 1 B4 Plantation Rd 2 B5 Upper Albert Rd 2 B4
continues 2 C4
Graham St 2 B3 Lockhart Rd 3 F4 Pottinger St 2 B3 2 A2
Upper Lascar Rd
C Granville Rd 1 B3 Lok Ku Rd 2 A2 Prat Ave 1 C4

Caine Rd 2 A3 continues 1 C3 Lower Albert Rd 2 C3 Promenade 1C4, 1C5

continues 2 B3 Gresson St 3 E4 continues 2 C4 Public Square St 1 A1, 1 B1

Cameron Rd 1 B4 Luard Rd 3 F4 W

continues 1 C4 H Lugard Rd 2 A4 Q Wai Ching St 1 A2

Canton Rd 1 A3 Haiphong Rd 1 B4 Lung Wui Rd 3 D3 Queen Victoria St 2 B2 Wan Chai Rd 3 F4
Hankow Rd 1 B4
continues 1 A4 Hanoi Rd 1 C4 Lyndhurst Terrace 2 B3 Queen’s Rd Central 2 A2, Waterloo Rd 1 A1
Harbour Rd 3 F3
Carnarvon Rd 1 B3 Harbour View St 2 C2 2 B2 Wellington St 2 B2, 2 B3
Harcourt Rd 3 D3
continues 1 C4 Hennessy Rd 3 E4 M Queen’s Rd East 3 E4 Wing Fung St 3 E4
3 F4
Castle Rd 2 A3 continues 1 A1 Macdonnell Rd 2 C4 Queen’s Rd West 2 A2 Wing Lok St 2 A2, 2 B2
Hoi Wang Rd 2 A2
Chater Rd 2 C3 Hollywood Rd 2 B3 Magazine Gap Rd 2 B4 Queensway 3 D4 Woosung St 1 B2, 1 B3
2 B4
Chatham Rd South 1 C3 continues 1 B4 continues 2 C4, 3 D5 Wylie Rd 1 C1
Hornsey Rd
continues 1 C4 Humphreys Ave R Wyndham St 2 B3

Chi Wo St 1 B2 Man Cheong St 1 A2 Reclamation St
continues
Man Ming Lane 1 B1 1 B1 Y
Robinson Rd 1 B2
Cochrane St 2 B3 Man Wai St 1 A2 2 A3 Yan Cheung Rd 1 A1

Conduit Rd 2 A4 Man Wue St 1 A2

Connaught Rd Man Ying St 1 A2

Central 2 B2, 2 C2 Man Yuen St 1 A2 S

Cotton Tree Drive 2 C4 Middle Rd 1 B4 Saigon St 1 A2
Salisbury Rd 1 B5, 1 C4
Cox’s Rd 1 B2 I Mody Rd 1 B4, 1 C4 Severn Rd
2 B5
Cross St 3 F4 Ice House St 2 C3 Morrison St 2 A2

S

HOI WANG ROADWATERLOO RD FERRY HANGHAI Yau Ma Tei MPARRINGCAERSEST RD
RECLAMA MAN MING LANE
YAU MA TEI NATHAN ROAD KING'S
T PARK
TEMPLE STREET
I

STR
ON

STREET EET
ST

R

E

E

T

PU BLIC SQUARE STREET Tin Hau WYLIE
Temple
Jade
YAN CHEUNG RO AD Market

ST KANSU STREET Queen ROAD
ST STREET Elizabeth
Hospital

STREET PAK ROAD HOI N STREET

MAN CHEONG ST STREET O
MAN WAI ST
MAN YUEN ST I

SAIGON STREET E C L A M AT T CHI WO STREET
STREET
CANTON E N AT H A N
B AT T E R Y
E G
E
D
MAN YING ST FERRY R MPL A S C O
MAN WUI ST SHANGHAI STR
CHING I
NING PO TE G N E
OSUNG
ST A ROAD
STREET
WAI NANKING STREET RO

JORDAN O J ORDAN

W COX 'S JORDAN
ES

K ROAD

KING GEORGE R O A D R

A TAK HING ST

P

V PARK TEM PLE WOOSUNG STREET PARKES STREET ROAD PA

Austin SHANGHAI STREET STREET Jordan TAK SHING ST KOWLOON TH TIN
AUSTIN ROAD WEST AUSTIN CRICKET
CANTON ROAD BOWRING PILKEM ST CLUB

STREET (THE ROAD
AUS
AUSTIN ROAD

GOLDEN Museum

A V E of History
NU E
TSIM SHA
TSUI OBS E Hong Kong

KOWLOON RKLNEUYTSFORRDOTAERDR RV AT O Science Museum
PARK KIMBERL RY RD
MILE)
CHINESE K I M B E E Y STREET ROAD SOUTH
GARDEN
CARNARVON ROAD THE URBAN
Kowloon
Mosque ROAD COUNCIL

HAIPHONG ROAD GRANVILLE CENTENARY

T S I M GARDEN
S H AROAD
China Ferry CANTON CAM ERON TSUI
Terminal A V E N UE EAST ROAD
AVE PRAT
Macau, HUMPH REYS HANOI ROA C H AT H A M ODY
China Tsim M
ASHLEY ROAD LOCK ROAD
Harbour KOWLOON PARK DRIVE HANKOW ROAD Sha Tsui
City
D

MODY ROAD WING ON
PLAZA

GARDEN

ROAD PEKING ROAD SIGNAL HILL Tsim Sha Tsui
GARDEN East Ferry Pier
R O A D NADE
MIDDLE R O A D East Tsim P R OME North
Sha Tsui Point

Ocean Terminal Peninsula

Tsim Sha Tsui Hotel RY W
Star Ferry Pier ATE R F RONT
SALISBU

Cultural Space SHA
Centre Museum TSUI

Clocktower Museum
of Art

AVE OF THE STARS TSIM

Cheung Chau Island, Victoria Harbour
Lantau Island
Wan Chai
Central Queen's
Pier

WesCtreorsnsingHarbour Macau Ma Wan Discovery Bay, Lamma Cheung Chau
Lantau Island Island Island

Hong Kong-Macau Government
Ferry Terminal Pier

Pier 2 Pier 3

C OBONHWING LOK MAN PO STREET MAN Pier 4
AM STRAND ST Western Pier 5
N N A U G H T R O A DQUEE Market Pier 6
'S R KWONG ST
DWESWTSBTORANNHDAMEAST Sheung
N ARD R O A MORRISON T DES VOE IFC Two International
ST BQOUNWJHEEAI RNMVEGOSNTILWS'ROSAaSKnNTDRRSEETOARESETTAE
S HWEAUNN G C E NTAI PANG SHAN D Mall Finance Centre
MAN CHEU
BLAKE UX HARBOUR Airport Express
GARDEN Hong Kong
STREHEOUTPLPLEYRWLLAOOSKOCADKRURDR CENTRAL TRAL NG S T Station
Man Mo Central QJUUEBEI LNEPVEOISCTTTTOI NR IGAE SRTS T VIEW
STREETD MarketWE
R
STREET LLINGTON RD ST
GAGE
O AD HOLLYW ST
DGES ST
Temple BRI ST COCHRANE
ST
LADDER OOD EEL PED
SOHO C(HCUENNGTRWAAL)NSEYM O UR DER ST
PUNR OSBHI NAS ONN KUIC AST L E RO A D ABERDEEN P ST CENTRAL
M
ST
STAUNTON A STANLEY

H ST

A

R LTYENRDRHAUCREST

G

CAI NE STREET ST ROAD LAN D'AGUILAR ST Central C H AT E R Prince’s
ELGIN
RO A D SHELLEPYEESELsTcMiSaldT-CatRLeoEenrtvEreTlasl– A ST Building
ROAD
R HAM
ST STATUE
WYNDSTHRAEME T KWAI F
ROAD BUTHNOT The SQUARE Legislative
Landmark
Jamia ONG ICE HOUSE Building
Masjid WYND
Q U E EN'S HSBC C H AT E R
Tower GARDEN

RO A D RD C E NTRAL

(MID LEVELS) O A D L OWER ALBE AD
UPPER A
R RT ROAD
UP PER ALBE Former LBE RT RD RO
C Government
O ND U I T A DEN REE DRIVE
House
OLD RT ROAD KONG
R OA D PE AK ROAD A R
LBANY R D
LUG ZOOLOGICAL Garden G C OTTON T
& BOTANICAL Road
HONG

GARDENS

HO RNSE ROAD Kennedy Edward
OAD Y Road Youde Aviary

KENNE D Y

D MacDonnell R O AD

M M A G Road MA C D O N N E LL
O
A Z I NE BOWEN GROAADP

UN T

AU S T I N R ROA D
P EAK M AY

May Road
SHAN TEO L D NG TR E G U N TER PATH R O A D R O AD
N

TREGU
TER ROAD
P AT H
RO (THE PEAK) Peak Tramway

AD

The Peak ROAD BAR KE R
FIN
AY Barker
Road
R O AD
BA RKER

D
D ROA D
D

RO A
L
D

P E AK
R OA
RN

VE

S E NTATI ON ROA
P
L A

Mui Wo, Tsim Sha Tsui Cultural Museum
Peng Chau & Star Ferry Pier Centre of Art
Lantau Island

Star Ferry
Pier

Victoria Harbour

WATERFRONT EXPO DRIVE EAST Wan Chai
Ferry Pier

EPDLIANCBEURGH
TIM

WA
AVE
LUNG WUI ROAD Hong Kong
Convention
& Exhibition

H A R C OU RT VENTION AVEN UE Center

TIM MEI AVENUE PIER STREET S T R E E T CON FLEMING

Admiralty ROA D F E N W I CK HARBOUR ROAD

TAMAR Central
ST Plaza

Bank of DRAKE ST R EET GLOUCESTER ROAD
China Tower ARSENAL STREET
QUEENSW AY HARCOURT FENWICK LUARD ROADWAN CHAI
GARDEN ROAD
JAFFE
ROAD
Flagstaff Supreme LOCKHART ROAD
House Court

PARK Pacific J O H HEN NESSY ROA D Wan Chai N RD
Place STON THOMSON
Conservatory JUSTICE DRIVE QUEEN'S N SOUTHORN R O A D S T O
AD PLAYGROUND
FUNGWISNTG SGTRREESESTON JO H N
R RD
O STAR
ROAD
STREET T LEE TUNG S T TAI YUEN STONE NULLAH LAN E
SPRING GA R DEN LA
ROAD SHIP S CH A I
SWATOW ST
Hung Shing CROSS ST
Temple
EAS T STREET WAN
K ENNED Y Hopewell
Centre

R OAD

BO WEN RO
A

BD

ORRETT RO AD Pak Tai
Temple

RO AD

PEAK



THE
SOUTHWEST

Introducing the Southwest 346–353

Sichuan & Chongqing 354–377

Yunnan 378–401

Guizhou & Guangxi 402–431

346 THE SOUTHWEST

The Southwest at a Glance The stepped and calcified Mirror Pools
in Huanglong, Sichuan
Some of China’s most evocative landscapes are
found in the Southwest: the fertile Red Basin of Yalong Jiang Waqên
eastern Sichuan, deep gorges along the Yangzi River, Sêrxü
the mountainous fringes of the Tibetan Plateau,
Xishuangbanna’s tropical forests, and the karst hills C Sêrtar Longriba
of Guizhou and Guangxi. Cultural highlights include
the sites of Buddhist art at Le Shan and Dazu, and the
remains of Ming city walls at Dali and Songpan.
Ethnic minority communities include Tibetans in
the west, Miao and Dong in Guizhou and Guangxi,
Dali’s Bai, Lijiang’s Naxi, and the Dai of Xishuangbanna.
There are wildlife preserves for giant pandas in
Sichuan, waterfowl at Cao Hai, and elephants in
Xishuangbanna; and trekking opportunities at Tiger
Leaping Gorge, Emei Shan, and along the Lao border
in southern Yunnan.

Qionglai ShanlaManiganggoBarkam
h o Mekong Da Qu
S h a Garzê
n

Luhuo

Dawu Danba

SICHUAN

Batang Kangding
Lhasa
Litang
Gongga Shan
7556m

Jiulong Hanyuan
Yuexi
Xiangcheng

Mianning

Zhongdian Xichang

Yulong Xueshan Yalong Jiang
5596m

Lijiang Panzhihua

The Miao village of Xijiang nestled into a terraced valley near Jianchuan Yongren
Kaili, Guizhou o Ling
Shaxi
Eryuan

Dali Baica

Baoshan Weishan Chuxiong Kunming
Yuxi
Tengchong YUNNAN

Getting Around Fengqing W

The major cities and destinations, such as u
Chengdu, Chongqing, Kunming, Guiyang, Guilin,
l

Wanding i

Lincang a

Lijiang, and Jinghong, are all served by air. Train lines, Shuangjiang Meko n Yuan Jiang (Red River)
though more restricted, offer fairly direct services ng Sh
connecting the provincial capitals with most of the larger
cities. A comprehensive network of buses covers much of a

n

g Pu ’er

the region, with comfortable express coaches and surfaced (Lancang Simao

roads linking key sites, though travel through remoter areas Jiang)

on local buses can be rough and slow-going, particularly

in Guizhou and Guangxi. It is also possible to spend a few Jinghong
days taking a ferry down the Yangzi from Chongqing, or Mengla
to take a scenic day trip along the Li River between Guilin

and Yangshuo in Guangxi province.

The ancient Miao village of Xijiang in Guizhou

INTRODUCING THE SOUTHWEST 347

Key

Expressway
Main road
Minor road
Main railway
Other railway
International border
Provincial border
Summit

Lanzhou Dai women selling their produce at a market in Jinghong, Xishuangbanna
Zoigê

Songpan Guangyuan Xi’an
Pingwu

Bazhong Wanyuan

Jiangyou

Maoxian

Mianyang Dazhou
Wanzhou
Guanxian Deyang Nanbu Fengjie
Ch(YaannggJtizaen)g
Chengdu Nanchong

Suining Liangping

Ya ’an Hechuan CHONGQING Wuhan
Neijiang Qianjiang
Leshan SHI Youyang
SICHUAN &
Emei Shan Chongqing CHONGQING

3099m Zigong Luzhou Qijiang

Yibin Shan Xiushan

Meigu Xuyong Chishui D a l o u
Junlian
Fenggang Tongren GUIZHOU
& GUANGXI
Changsha YUNNAN
Zunyi aoyuan Jinping
Daguan Bijie n g ui G U
Zhaotong Zhenyuan
Yu G U
Weining IZHO

Guiyang Kaili Liping

Dongchuan Anshun Duyun
Qinglong
Sanjiang Longsheng Quanzhou

Qujing Luodian Dushan Dashan
Xingyi Zhenfeng
Jiuwan Guilin

Hon Nandan Rongshui

Anlong Buliu He gshui He Hechi
Liuzhou
Shizong Tuoniang Lipu Hezhou
Guangnan Huangyao
Jiang Tianlin Guangzhou
Wuzhou
Bose G U A N G X I Wuxuan
Cenxi
Kaiyuan Tiandong Mashan
Gejiu
Yanshan Funing Pingguo Litang Guiping

Pingbian Jingxi

Jinping Nanning Yulin

Chongzuo

Bobai

Pingxiang Qinzhou 0 km 150

Hanoi Hepu 0 miles 150

Beihai

For additional map symbols see back flap

348 THE SOUTHWEST

A PORTRAIT OF THE
SOUTHWEST

The southwest’s stunning landscapes, from the impossibly steep limestone
hillocks along the Li River, to the deep gorges cut by the upper reaches of
the Yangzi, make it one of China’s most picturesque regions. The area’s
ethnic diversity, evident in the traditional culture and lifestyles of its
numerous minority communities, also adds to its attraction as an exotic
tourist destination.

The southwest’s isolation has meant that of the Ming and Qing eras, the area that is
for much of its past it has forged its own now Yunnan, Guizhou, and Guangxi was
path. The area roughly covered by today’s ruled as a colonized outpost, dominated
Yunnan has always had closer ties with its by tribal chieftains.
neighbors to the south and east than with
China’s traditional dynastic centers. During During the 1800s, the dispossessed,
the period of the Warring States (475–221 ground down by merciless warlords and
BC), Zhuang Qiao, a Chu general, was sent extra imperial taxes, revolted in two major
here to subdue the tribes, but after a long uprisings: the Muslim Uprising of 1856
campaign, he was impelled to stay, (also known as the Du Wenxiu Rebellion)
establishing the Kingdom of Dian at what which lasted until 1873 and centered on
is now Kunming in around 300 BC. For Kunming, and the Taiping Rebellion
the next 500 years, the kingdom existed (which lasted from 1850–1864) begun in
as a loose conglomerate of tribute-paying Guangxi (see p428). Both uprisings were
tribal chiefs. brutally suppressed by the Qing and
colonizing forces, sending the region into
In the 8th century, the Kingdom of a downward spiral of provincial obscurity
Nanzhao emerged in Dali, extending its and abject poverty. The Miao minority
territory into Vietnam and Myanmar. The revolted again in 1870. When the
dynasty grew wealthy on trade along the Communists marched through during the
Southern Silk Route, until it was Long March in 1934, they encountered a
conquered by the Yuan emperor Kublai population ready for revolution and took
Khan in the 13th century. Through much on many recruits.

Fishing boats on the banks of peaceful Er Hai (Ear Lake) near Dali