DK Eyewitness Travel Guide_ China

BEIJING 99

Additional stelae are propped y Dong Yue Miao

up on the backs of bixi (mythical

cross between a tortoise and a

dragon), within pavilions 141 Chaoyang Men Wai Dajie,

surrounded by cypress trees. On Chaoyang. Map 2 F4. q Chaoyang

a marble terrace in the main hall Men. Tel (010) 6551 3883. Open

are statues of Confucius and 8:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sun. &

some of his disciples.

On Beijing’s eastern side near

t Di Tan Park Chaoyang’s Workers’ Stadium,
the mesmerizing Dong Yue

Miao takes its name from

the Daoist Eastern Peak, Dong

N of the Lama Temple, Dongcheng. Yue, also known as Tai Shan
Map 2 E1. q Yonghe Gong. Tel (010) (see pp150–51). It is fronted by a
6421 4657. Open 6am–9pm daily. & fabulous glazed Ming dynasty

paifang inscribed with the

An ideal place to stroll amidst characters “Zhisi Daizong,”

trees, Di Tan Park was named meaning “offer sacrifices to

Statue of Confucius at the main entrance, after the Temple of Earth (Di Mount Tai (Tai Shan) in
Confucius Temple
Tan), which was the venue for good order.”
The splendid exhibition of
Tibetan Buddhist objects at the imperial sacrifices. The This colorful and active
temple’s rear includes statues of
the deities Padmasambhava park’s altar (Fangze temple, dating to the early 14th
(Guru Rinpoche), and the
Tibetan equivalent of Guanyin, Tan) dates to the century, was restored at
Chenresig, alongside ritual
objects such as the scepter-like Ming dynasty and its considerable cost in 1999,
dorje (thunderbolt) and dril bu
(bell), symbols of the male and square shape and is tended by Daoist
female energies. Few captions
are in English. represents the earth. monks. The main

r Confucius Temple Under the Ming, five courtyard leads into

13 Guozijian Jie, Dongcheng. Map 2 main altars were the Hall of Tai Shan,
E2. q Yonghe Gong. Tel (010) 8402
3882. Open 9am–5pm daily. & established at the where there are

Adjacent to the Lama Temple, city’s cardinal points – statues of the God
the Confucius Temple is the
largest in China outside Qufu, Tian Tan (Temple of Tai Shan and his
the philosopher’s birthplace in
Shandong province (see p148). of Heaven) in the attendants. The
The alley leading to the temple
has a fine pailou (decorative south, Di Tan in the greatest attractions
archway), few of which survive
in Beijing. First built in 1302 north, Ri Tan Guardian at entrance, Dong here are over 70
during the Mongol Yuan
dynasty, the temple was (Temple of the Sun) Yue Miao “Departments,” filled
expanded in 1906 in the reign
of Emperor Guangxu. It is a in the east, Yue Tan with vivid Daoist
tranquil place that offers respite
from the city’s bustle. Around (Temple of the Moon) in the gods and demons, whose
200 ancient stelae stand in the
silent courtyard in front of the west, and Sheji Tan (Temple of functions are explained in
main hall (Dacheng Dian),
inscribed with the names of Land and Grain) in the center. English captions. In Daoist lore,
those who successfully passed
the imperial civil service exams. Mirroring ancient ceremonies, a the spirits of the dead go to Tai

lively temple fair (miaohui) is Shan, and many Departments

held during the Chinese New dwell on the afterlife. The

Year (see pp48–9), to welcome Department for Increasing

the spring planting season and Wealth and Longevity, for

appease the gods. example, offers cheerful advice.

Corn laid out to form Chinese characters, temple festival, Di Tan Park

100 BEIJING & THE NORTH

u National Art Wangfujing Dajie. One of the
Museum of China city’s most important churches,
it has been restored at a cost

of US$2 million. It was built

1 Wusi Dajie, Dongcheng. Map 2 D4. on the site of the former
q Dong Si. Tel (010) 6401 7076. residence of Jesuit Adam
Open 9am–5pm daily, last entry 4pm. Schall von Bell (1591–1669)
∑ namoc.org in 1655, and has been rebuilt
a number of times after being

Hosting exhibitions of Chinese successively destroyed by

and international art, as well earthquake, fire, and then

as occasional photographic during the Boxer Rebellion

displays, the National Art (see p439). It is fronted by

Museum of China (Zhongguo an open courtyard and an

Meishuguan) has 14 halls over arched gateway.

three levels. This quite ordinary

building holds an exciting range The imposing façade of St. Joseph’s Church, o Ancient
of Chinese modern art, which Wangfujing Street Observatory
suffers less censorship than

other media, such as film or Beijing. The street has a lively

literature. Magazines such mixture of pharmacies, laundry

as Time Out Beijing and The and dyeing shops, as well Map 4 F1. q Jianguo Men. Tel (010)

Beijinger carry details of current as stores selling silk, tea, 6512 8923. Open summer: 9am–6pm
and forthcoming exhibitions. and shoes. daily; winter: 9am–4:30pm daily. &

However, the street’s

i Wangfujing highlight is the Night Beijing’s ancient obser-
Street Market, with its vatory (Gu Guan-
endless variety of xiangtai) stands on a

traditional Chinese platform alongside a

Map 4 D1. q Wangfujing. Night snacks, including flyover off Jianguo
Market: Open 5:30pm–10pm daily. St. skewers of beef, Men Nei Dajie. Dating
Joseph’s Church: 74 Wangfujing Dajie. and more exotic
Open early morning during services. morsels such as to 1442, it is one of
scorpions. Other the oldest in the
world. A Yuan

Bustling Wangfujing Street offerings include dynasty (1279–

(Wangfujing Dajie), Beijing’s pancakes, fruit, 1368) observatory

original shopping street, is filled shrimps, squid, flat was also located

with department stores and bread, and more. here, but the

giant malls such as the Sun The Wangfujing structure that

Dong’an Plaza (see p118). Snack Street, south Ecliptic armillary sphere, survives today was

Everything from curios, objets of the Night Market, Ancient Observatory built after the Ming

d’art, antiques, clothes, and also has a range of emperors relocated

books are available here. The colorful restaurants. their capital from Nanjing to

huge Foreign Language The impressive triple-domed Beijing. In the early 17th

Bookstore is a good place to St. Joseph’s Church, known as century, the Jesuits, led by

buy a more detailed map of the East Cathedral, is at 74 Matteo Ricci (1552–1610) and

followed by Adam Schall von

Bell, impressed the emperor

and the imperial astronomers

with their scientific knowledge,

particularly the accuracy of their

predictions of eclipses.

The Belgian Jesuit Father

Verbiest (1623–88) was

appointed to the Imperial

Astronomical Bureau, where he

designed a set of astronomical

instruments in 1674. Several of

these were appropriated by

German soldiers during the

Boxer Rebellion of 1900, and

were only returned after

World War I. A collection of

Delicious street food at the Night Market, just off Wangfujing Street reproduction astronomical

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–563 and pp572–585

BEIJING 101

a Beijing Natural
History Museum

126 Tianqiao Nan Dajie, Chongwen.
Map 3 C3. q Qian Men, then taxi.
Tel (010) 6702 7702. Open 9am–5pm
Tue–Sat. ∑ bmnh.org.cn

The atmospheric Red Gate Gallery, Southeast Corner Watchtower This museum is the largest of its
type in China, with about 5,000
devices lies in the courtyard climbing onto the Ming dynasty specimens arranged into three
on the ground floor, some battlements, visitors can walk collections. The Paleontology
decorated with fantastic along the short but impressive Hall displays a selection of
Chinese designs including stretch of attached wall to the prehistoric animals that
dragons. Steps lead to the roof, admire the towering bastion, populated China millions of
where there are impressive pitted with archers’ windows, years ago. The zoology section
bronze instruments, including and look down on the city explains and illustrates the
an azimuth theodolite, used to below. The walls of the tower course of evolution, and a
measure the altitude of celestial are engraved with graffiti left basement houses a macabre
bodies, and an armillary sphere, by soldiers of the international display of human cadavers,
for measuring the coordinates army that marched into the pickled corpses, limbs, and
of planets and stars. city to liberate the Foreign organs. The botany collection
Legations during the Boxer is less impressive.
Southeast Corner Watchtower (Dongbian Rebellion in 1900.
Men Jian Lou) s Temple of
Within its splendid, cavernous Heaven
p Southeast Corner interior, accessed from the
Watchtower battlements, the rooms reveal See pp102–3
enormous red wooden columns
and pillars, crossed with beams. d Beijing Capital
The Red Gate Gallery, one of Museum
Beijing’s most appealing art
galleries, is situated within this 16 Fuxingmenwai Dajie. q Muxidi.
superb setting. Originally Tel (010) 6337 0491. Open 9am–5pm
founded in 1991 by Brian Tue–Sun. - 0 7
Wallace, an Australian who
came to Beijing to learn Beijing’s premier museum has a
Chinese, the gallery exhibits collection of 200,000 of the best
works in a wide variety of Chinese art and antiquities over
media by up-and-coming five floors. An interesting film
contemporary Chinese and telling the story of Beijing is
foreign artists. Forthcoming screened every 30 minutes.
exhibitions are listed on the English captions on the exhibits
gallery’s website. are limited, so it is worth hiring
an audio guide.

Off Jianguo Men Nan Dajie,
Chongwen. Map 4 F2. q Beijing
Railway Station. Red Gate Gallery:
Tel (010) 6525 1005. Open 9am–5pm
daily. & For exhibition details visit
∑ redgategallery.com

About 2 km (1 mile) south of Dinosaur skeletons in the Paleontology Hall, Natural History Museum
the Ancient Observatory, an
imposing chunk of the Beijing
City Walls (see p91) survives in
the form of the 15th-century
Southeast Corner Watchtower
(Dongbian Jiao Lou). After

102 BEIJING & THE NORTH

s Temple of Heaven Qinian Dian, where the emperor prayed
for a good harvest
Completed during the Ming dynasty, the Temple of
Heaven, more correctly known as Tian Tan, is one of the
largest temple complexes in China and a paradigm of
Chinese architectural balance and symbolism. Now a
UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was here that the emperor
would make sacrifices and pray to heaven and his
ancestors at the winter solstice. As the Son of Heaven, the
emperor could intercede with the gods, represented by
their spirit tablets, on behalf of his people and pray for a
good harvest. Off-limits to the common people during the
Ming and Qing dynasties, the Temple of Heaven is situated
in a large and pleasant park that now attracts early
morning practitioners of tai ji quan (see p279).

The Tian Tan Complex

The main parts of the temple complex are all connected on the
favored north-south axis by the Red Step Bridge (an elevated
pathway) to form the focal point of the park. The Round Altar is made
up of concentric rings of stone slabs in multiples of nine, the most
auspicious number. The circular Echo Wall is famed for its supposed
ability to carry a whisper from one side of the wall to the other.

1 Hall of Prayer for Good
Harvests

2 Red Step Bridge
3 Echo Wall
4 Imperial Vault of Heaven
5 Round Altar

Triple gates for emperor (east), officials
(west) and gods (center)

Imperial Vault of Heaven, store for the spirit
tablets of the gods

Key The Round Altar, site of the emperor’s Qinian Dian
Area illustrated sacrifice
Originally built in 1420, the
Qinian Dian, or Hall of Prayer
for Good Harvests, is often
incorrectly called the Temple of
Heaven. There is in fact no single
temple building as such at Tian
Tan, a more literal translation
of which is Altar of Heaven –
referring to the whole complex..

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

BEIJING 103

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Tian Tan Dong Lu (East Gate),
Chongwen. Map 4 E4. Tel (010)
6702 8866. Open 6am –8pm
daily. Temple Buildings: Open
8:30am–6pm. & 9 = -

Transport
q Tiantan Dong Men.
@ 34, 6, 35. Park.

. Caisson Ceiling
The splendid circular caisson ceiling
has a gilded dragon and phoenix at
its center. The hall is entirely built of
wood without using a single nail.

Marble Platform . Dragon Well Pillars
Three tiers of marble form a The roofs of the hall are supported on 28
highly decorated pillars. At the center, the
circle 300 ft (90 m) in four huge columns, known as Dragon Well
diameter and 20 ft (6 m) pillars, represent the seasons, while the
high. The balusters on the other 24 smaller pillars symbolize the
upper tier are decorated months in a year plus the 2-hour time
with dragon carvings to periods in a day.
signify the imperial nature
KEY
of the structure.
1 Dragon and phoenix motifs
inside and out represent the
emperor and empress.

2 Red is an imperial color.

3 Circular roof symbolizes
the sky

4 Name plaques are often written
in the calligraphy of an emperor.

5 The golden finial is 125 ft (38 m)
high and prone to lightning strikes.

6 Blue represents the color
of heaven.

7 Tablets in memory of his
ancestors were worshipped by
the emperor.

8 Symbolic offerings

104 BEIJING & THE NORTH

f Cow Street
Mosque

18 Niu Jie, Xuanwu. Map 3 A3. q
Caishikou, then taxi. Tel (010) 6353
2564. Open 8am–6pm daily. Avoid Fri
(holy day). &

Beijing’s oldest and largest Buddhist statuary in the main hall, Fayuan Temple
mosque dates back to the 10th
century. It is located in the city’s g Fayuan Temple Kings (Tianwang Dian) is
Hui district, near numerous guarded by a pair of bronze
Muslim restaurants and shops. 7 Fayuan Si Qian Jie, Xuanwu. Map 3 lions, and has statues of Milefo
The Hui, a Chinese Muslim A3. q Caishikou. Tel (010) 6353 4171. (the Laughing Buddha) and
minority group mainly from Open 8:30am–3:30pm daily. & his attendant Heavenly Kings.
Ningxia province, are now Ancient stelae stand in front of
scattered throughout China and A short walk east from Cow the main hall, where a gilded
number around 200,000 in Street Mosque, the Fayuan statue of Sakyamuni (the
Beijing. The men are easily Temple dates to AD 696 and is Historical Buddha) is flanked
identified by their beards and probably the oldest temple in by bodhisattvas and luohan –
characteristic white hats. Beijing. It was consecrated by those freed from the cycle
the Tang Taizong emperor of rebirth.
The Cow Street Mosque is an (r.626–49), to commemorate the
attractive edifice, with Islamic soldiers who perished in an At the temple’s rear, the
motifs and Arabic verses expedition against the northern Scripture Hall stores sutras, while
decorating its halls and stelae. tribes. The original Tang era another hall contains a 16-ft
Its most prized possession is a buildings were destroyed by a (5-m) Buddha statue. The
300-year-old, hand-written copy succession of natural disasters, grounds are busy with monks
of the Koran (Gulanjing). and the current structures date who attend the temple’s
from the Qing era. Buddhist College.
Astronomical observations
and lunar calculations were The temple’s layout is typical h White Clouds
made from the tower-like of Buddhist temples. Near the Temple
Wangyue Lou. The graves of two gate, the incense burner (lu) is
Yuan dynasty Arab missionaries flanked by the Drum and Bell 6 Baiyuanguan Jie, Xuanwu. q
engraved with Arabic inscriptions Towers to the east and west. Nanlishi Lu, then taxi. Tel (010) 6344
can be seen here. The courtyard Beyond, the Hall of the Heavenly 3666. Open 8:30am–4pm daily. &
is lush with greenery, making it
an idyllic escape from Beijing’s
busy streets. Visitors are advised
to dress conservatively (you can
hire clothes if necessary). Non-
Muslims are not allowed to
enter the prayer hall.

Resplendent interior of the Cow Street Mosque Home to the China Daoist
Association, the White Clouds
Temple (Baiyun Guan) was
founded in AD 739 and is
Beijing’s largest Daoist shrine.
Known as the Temple of
Heavenly Eternity, it was one of
the three ancestral halls of the
Quanzhen School of Daoism,
which focused on right action
and the benefits of good karma.
Built largely of wood, the
temple burnt to the ground in
1166, and since then has been
repeatedly destroyed and
rebuilt. The structures that
survive date largely from the
Ming and Qing dynasties.
A triple-gated Ming pailou
(decorative archway) stands at

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

BEIJING 105

the entrance. It is believed that
rubbing the carved monkey on
the main gate brings good luck.
The major halls are arranged
along the central axis, with
more halls on either side. The
Hall of the Tutelary God has
images of four marshals who
act as temple guardians, while
the Hall of Ancient Disciplines
is dedicated to the Seven
Perfect Ones, disciples of Wang
Chongyang, the founder of the
Quanzhen School. The Hall of
Wealth is popular with pilgrims
who seek blessings from the
three spirits of wealth, while the
infirm patronize the Hall of the
King of Medicine.

The temple grounds are full
of Daoist monks with their
distinctive topknots. It is most
lively during the Chinese New
Year (see pp48–9), when a
temple fair (miaohui) is held.

j Military Museum Buddhist monks, Miaoying Temple White Dagoba
of the Chinese
People’s Revolution tanks, and surface-to-air when Beijing was under Mongol
missiles. The top gallery rule. In addition to its conven-
9 Fuxing Lu, Haidian. q Military chronicles with pride many of tional Drum and Bell Towers,
Museum. Tel (010) 6686 6244. China’s military campaigns. Hall of Heavenly Kings, and
Open 8am–5pm daily. Main Halls, this Buddhist temple
k Miaoying Temple has a remarkable collection of
Topped by a gilded emblem of White Dagoba small Tibetan Buddhist statues
the People’s Liberation Army, in one of its halls. Another hall
the Military Museum of the Fucheng Men Nei Dajie, Xicheng. Map has a collection of 18 bronze
Chinese People’s Revolution is 1 A4. q Fucheng Men. Tel (010) 6616 luohan (disciples).
devoted to weaponry and 0211. Open 9:30am–4pm daily. &
revolutionary heroism. It is close l Beijing Zoo
to Muxidi, where the People’s Celebrated for its distinctive
Liberation Army killed scores of Tibetan-styled, 167-ft (51-m) 137 Xizhi Men Wai Dajie, Haidian. q
civilians in 1989. Visitors are white dagoba (stupa or funerary Xizhi Men, then taxi. Tel (010) 6831
greeted by paintings of Mao, mound) designed by a Nepalese 5131. Open 7:30am–5pm (to 6pm
Marx, Lenin, and Stalin. The architect, the Miaoying Temple spring & summer). & extra to see
ground floor exhibits defunct (Miaoying Si) dates to 1271, pandas.
F-5 and F-7 jet fighter planes,

F-5 fighter planes, Military Museum of the Chinese People’s Revolution West of the Beijing Exhibition
Hall, Beijing Zoo has improved
somewhat but still has some
outdated concrete and glass
cages. The Panda Hall is one of
its better enclosures, and the
bears are at their liveliest in the
mornings. The real reason for
visiting is the huge Aquarium,
with coral reefs, an Amazon
rainforest, and an impressive
shark pool. There is also an array
of aquatic mammals, including
whales and dolphins.

106 BEIJING & THE NORTH

z Summer Palace

The sprawling grounds of the Summer Palace (Yihe Yuan) . Longevity Hill
served the Qing Dynasty as an imperial retreat from the The Tower of the Fragrance of
stifling summer confines of the Forbidden City. Despite the Buddha dominates this
existing as an imperial park in earlier dynasties, it was not slope covered with impressive
until the time of Emperor Qianlong, who reigned from 1736 religious buildings.
to 1795, that the Summer Palace assumed its current layout.
The palace is most associated, however, with Cixi who had it
rebuilt twice: once following its destruction by French and
English troops in 1860, and again in 1902 after it was
plundered during the Boxer Rebellion.

Marble Boat
Cixi paid for this extravagant
folly with funds meant for the
modernization of the Imperial Navy.
The superstructure of the boat is
made of wood painted white to
look like marble.

West Lake Kunming Lake Plan of Grounds KEY

South The grounds of the Summer 1 The Bronze Pavilion, weighing
Lake Palace cover 716 acres (290 207 tons (188 tonnes), is a detailed
hectares), with Kunming replica of a timber-framed building.
Lake lying to the south of
Longevity Hill. South Lake 2 Boat pier
Island is just off the east 3 Temple of the Sea of Wisdom
shore and a stroll around the 4 Suzhou Street
entire shoreline takes about 5 Back Lake
two hours. 6 The Garden of Harmonious
Pleasures was Cixi’s favorite
1 Jade Belt Bridge fishing spot.
2 West Causeway
3 South Lake Island 7 Hall of Jade Ripples
4 Bronze ox 8 Hall of Happiness and Longevity

Key 0 meters 800
Area illustrated 0 yards 800

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

BEIJING 107

Empress Dowager Cixi VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Together with Tang-dynasty Empress Wu Practical Information
Zetian (see p63), Cixi is remembered as one 6 miles (10 km) NW of Beijing.
of China’s most powerful women. Having Tel (010) 6288 1144. Open Apr–
borne the Xianfeng emperor’s son as an Oct: 6:30am–6pm, Nov–Mar:
imperial concubine, Cixi later seized power 7am–5pm. & - =
as regent to both the Tongzhi and and
Guangxu emperors (her son and nephew Transport
respectively). Cixi prevented Guangxu q Beigongmen.
from implementing state reforms and, in 4 from Yuyuan Tan Park, and
her alliance with the Boxer Rebellion, Exhibition Center near zoo (not
paved the way for the fall of the Qing in winter).
Dynasty in 1911.
Empress Cixi, 1835–1908

. Garden of Virtue and Harmony
This three-story building served as a
theater, where the court’s 348-member
opera troupe entertained Cixi, who
watched from the surrounding gallery.

East Palace Gate
(main entrance)

. Long Corridor Hall of Benevolence and
The beams along the length Longevity
of this 2,388-ft (728-m)
walkway are decorated with The principal ceremonial
over 14,000 scenic paintings. hall, this single-eaved

building houses the throne
upon which Cixi sat.

108 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Exploring the Summer Palace glazed Buddhist effigies, many

of which have been vandalized.
Like the imperial resort at Chengde (see pp128–31), the palace From here you can look down

grounds are arranged as a microcosm of nature, its hills to the Back Lake (Hou Hu).

(shan) and water (shui) creating a natural composition further West of the Tower of the

complemented by bridges, temples, walkways, and Fragrance of the Buddha is the
ceremonial halls. Even after repeated restoration, the Summer Precious Clouds Pavilion
Palace tastefully harmonizes the functional and fanciful, with (Baoyun Ge), also called the
administrative and residential quarters leading to the Bronze Pavilion. Dating from
the 18th century, the building is

pastoral vistas of the grounds, as well as numerous peaceful one of a handful that survived

temples and shrines. the destruction wrought by

foreign troops.

The buildings at the north

end of the lake are more than

enough to fill a single day,

however the southern end of

the grounds can be blissfully

free of crowds. Boat trips to

South Lake Island depart from

the jetty near the Marble Boat

(north of which are the imperial

boathouses). Alternatively, if

time will allow, hire a boat for a

leisurely row around Kunming

Seventeen-arch Bridge linking South Lake Island to the mainland Lake. Dragon King Temple

(Longwang Miao) on South

The grounds of the Summer the west of the Garden of Lake Island is dedicated to the

Palace are extensive, but the Virtue and Harmony (Dehe god of rivers, seas, and rain. The

main buildings can all be visited Yuan) and north of the jetty island is connected to the

by those with a bit of energy from where Cixi would eastern shore by the elegant

and time. The main entrance set sail across the lake. Seventeen-arch Bridge (Shiqi

at the East Palace Gate (Gong From here, the Long Kong Qiao). A marble lion

Dong Men) leads to the Corridor (Chang crowns each of the 544

official and Lang) follows the balusters along the bridge’s

residential lakeside, interrupted length, and a large bronze ox,

halls of the along its length by four dating back to 1755, reposes on

palace pavilions. At the corridor’s the eastern shore. On the

complex. halfway point, a opposite shore, steep-sloped

Just inside series of religious Jade Belt Bridge links the main-

the main buildings ascends the land to the West Causeway

gate Bronze ox, believed to pacify the slopes of Longevity which slices through the lake
stands the waters and prevent floods Hill (Wanshou Shan), to its southern point.
Hall of a sequence

Benevolence and Longevity marked at the lakeside by a

(Renshou Dian). Note the fabulous decorative gate

bronze statues in front of this (pailou), beyond which

ceremonial hall, including the stands Cloud Dispelling

symbol of Confucian virtue, the Gate, with two bronze

mythical qilin, a hybrid, cloven- lions sitting alongside it.

hoofed animal with horns and The first main hall, the

scales. You will see signs here Cloud Dispelling Hall

for Suzhou Street, which (Paiyun Dian) is a double-

houses over-priced snack and eaved structure, above

souvenir stalls, and is not worth which rises the prominent,

the extra entry fee. octagonal Tower of the

By the lakeside to the west, Fragrance of the Buddha

the Hall of Jade Ripples (Yulan (Foxiang Ge). Behind the

Tang) is where Cixi incarcerated tower sits the rectangular

the Guangxu emperor after brick and tile 18th-century

the abortive 1898 Reform Temple of the Sea of

Movement. Cixi’s residence, Wisdom (Huihai Si), its

the Hall of Happiness and exterior decorated with The unusual Bronze Pavilion, fashioned entirely

Longevity (Leshou Tang) is to green and yellow tiles and from metal

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

BEIJING 109

casting, and visitors can toss
a coin into the bell for luck.
Hundreds of bells from the
Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing
eras can be seen in a separate
hall on the west side.

v Xiang Shan Park

Wofosi Lu, Xiang Shan, Haidian
district. q Bagou, then taxi. @ 333
from Summer Palace, 360 from Zoo.
Open 6am–6pm. & Botanical
Gardens: Open 9am–4pm daily. &

Remnants of the Yuanming Yuan, once said to resemble Versailles

x Yuanming Yuan This wooded parkland area,

c Great Bell Temple also known as Fragrant Hills

Park, is at its scenic best in the

fall, when the maples turn a

28 Qinghua Xi Lu, Haidian. 31a Beisanhuan Xi Lu, Haidian. flaming red. Its main attractions
q Yuanmingyuan Park. Tel (010) q Dazhong Si. @ 300, 367. Tel (010) are the fine views from Incense
6262 8501. Open 7am–7pm daily. & 6255 0819. Open 8:30am–4pm Burner Peak, accessible by a
daily. & chairlift, and the splendid Biyun

The yuanmingyuan (Garden of Temple, or Azure Cloud Temple,

Perfect Brightness, sometimes Home to a fascinating collec- close to the main gate. The

called the Old Summer Palace), tion of bells, the 18th-century temple is guarded by the

now sits isolated from the main Dazhong Si follows a typical menacing deities Heng and Ha

Summer Palace, but was a Buddhist plan, with the in the Mountain Gate Hall. A

collection of princely gardens Heavenly Kings Hall, Main series of halls leads to

fused into the main mass by the Hall, and the Guanyin the Sun Yat-sen

Qing Qianlong emperor in the Bodhisattva Hall. Its Memorial Hall, where

mid-18th century. He highlight is the 46.5 his coffin was stored

commissioned Jesuits at his ton (47, 246 kg) bell in 1925, before being

court to design and construct a – one of the world’s taken to Nanjing. At

set of European-style buildings largest – that is housed the temple’s rear is the

in one corner, which they likened in the rear tower. The distinctive 112-ft (34-m)

to Versailles. Unfortunately, all bell was cast between high Diamond Throne

the traditional Chinese halls were 1403 and 1424, and Pagoda. About a mile

burned down by British and brought here from (2 km) east of Xiang

French troops during the Second Wanshou Temple in the Heng, Biyun Shan Park are the Beijing

Opium War in 1860. Later the reign of the Qianlong Temple deity Botanical Gardens,

European-style buildings were emperor. Buddhist sutras with some 3,000 plant

pulled down, and much of the in Chinese and Sanskrit embel- species. The gardens’ Sleeping

remains carted away by the lish its surface. During the Ming Buddha Temple is renowned

locals for building purposes. and Qing dynasties, the bell was for its magnificent bronze

Chinese narrations of the struck 108 times to bring in the statue of a reclining Buddha.

devastation criticize both the New Year, and could be heard China’s last emperor, Pu Yi

marauding European troops for 25 miles (40 km). The gallery (see p452), ended his days

and the ineffectual Qing rulers. above has a display on bell here as a gardener.

Today, Yuanming Yuan is a

jumble of sad, yet graceful

fragments of stone and

marble strewn in the Eternal

Spring Garden in the park’s

northeastern corner. A small

museum displays images and

models of the palace, depicting

its scale and magnificence. The

Palace Maze has been recreated

in concrete to the west of the

ruins. The rest of the park is a

pleasant expanse of lakes,

pavilions, gardens, and walks. The Great Bell Temple or Dazhong Si

110 BEIJING & THE NORTH

b Ming Tombs: Chang Ling

The resting place for 13 of the 16 Ming emperors, the . Sacred Way
Ming Tombs (Shisan Ling) are China’s finest example Part of the 4-mile (7-km) approach to
of imperial tomb architecture. The site was originally the tombs, the Sacred Way is lined with
selected because of its auspicious feng shui 36 stone statues of officials, soldiers,
alignment; a ridge of mountains to the north cradles animals, and mythical beasts.
the tombs on three sides, opening to the south and
protecting the dead from the evil spirits carried on
the north wind. The resting place of the Yongle
emperor (1360–1424), the Chang Ling is the most
impressive tomb and the first to be built. It has been
beautifully restored, although the burial chamber,
where Yongle, his wife, and 16 concubines are
thought to be buried, has never been excavated.

. Hall of Eminent Favor
One of China’s most impressive
surviving Ming buildings, this
double-eaved sacrificial hall
is erected on a three-tiered
terrace.

Reconstruction of Chang Ling

This shows the Chang Ling tomb at the
time of the burial of the Yongle emperor in
the 15th century.

The Ming Tombs

The 13 tombs are spread over 15 square miles (40 sq km), so
are best visited by taxi. Chang Ling, Ding Ling, and Zhao Ling
have been restored and are very busy. Unrestored, the rest are
open yet quiet.

SACRED WAY 1 Chang Ling (1424) 8 Mao Ling (1487)
2 Yong Ling (1566) 9 Tai Ling (1505)
PAILOU 3 De Ling (1627) 0 Kang Ling (1521)
(ARCHWAY) 4 Jing Ling (1435) q Ding Ling (1620)
5 Xian Ling (1425) w Zhao Ling (1572)
6 Qing Ling (1620) e Concubine cemeteries
7 Yu Ling (1449) r Si Ling (1644)

0 kilometers 4
0 miles
4

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

BEIJING 111

. Ding Ling treasures VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Artifacts from the Wanli emperor’s tomb,
such as this threaded-gold crown decorated Practical Information
with two dragons, are on display in the main 30 miles (45 km) NW of Beijing.
hall at Chang Ling. Tel (010) 6076 3104. Open
8:30am–5:30pm daily. & ^
interiors. ∑ mingtombs.com

Transport
@ 1–5 buses from Qianmen
go to Bedaling Great Wall then
tombs. Many tours to the Great
Wall (see pp112–14) stop here.

Cedar columns
Supporting the huge weight
of the roof, the colossal 43-foot
(13-m) nanmu (fragrant cedar)
columns are topped with elaborate

dougong bracket sets.

Statue of the Yongle emperor Ding Ling Burial Chamber
Yongle, the third Ming emperor,
moved the capital from Nanjing to Ding Ling, the tomb of the longest reigning Ming emperor, Wanli
Beijing, where he then oversaw the (r.1573–1620), is the only burial chamber of the 16 tombs to have
construction of the Forbidden City. been excavated and opened to the public. During the 1950s,
archeologists were stunned to find the inner doors of the
KEY chamber still intact. Inside they found the treasures of an emperor
whose profligate rule began the downfall of the Ming dynasty.
1 The Stele Pavilion bears
inscriptions dating from the Qing Entrance Side chambers were
dynasty which revered the Ming intended for others of
emperors. Wanli’s courts, but were
never used.
2 Gate of Eminent Favor
3 The Spirit Tower marks the The central chamber
entrance to the burial chamber. contains three marble
4 An earthen mound, surrounded thrones, one for each
by a circular rampart, covers the of the dead.
stone burial chamber.
The coffin Outer Chamber
chamber held Exit (via Spirit Tower)
the red lacquer
coffins of Wanli and his
two wives.

112 BEIJING & THE NORTH

n Great Wall of China Crumbling ruin
Most of the wall is still unrestored
A symbol of China’s historic detachment and sense of and has crumbled away leaving
vulnerability, the Great Wall snakes over deserts, hills, and only the core remaining.
plains for several thousand miles. Originally a series of
disparate earthen ramparts built by individual states, the
Great Wall was created only after the unification of China
under Qin Shi Huangdi (221–210 BC). Despite impressive
battlements, the wall ultimately proved ineffective; it was
breached in the 13th century by the Mongols and then,
in the 17th century, by the Manchu. Today a UNESCO World
Heritage Site, only select sections of its crumbling remains
have been fully restored.

. Panoramic views
Because the wall took
advantage of the natural terrain
for defensive purposes following
the highest points and clinging
to ridges, it now offers superb
panoramic views.

Reconstruction of
the Great Wall

This shows a section
of the wall as built by
the most prolific wall
builders, the Ming
dynasty (1368–1644).
The section at
Badaling, built around
1505, is similar to this
and was restored in
the 1950s and 1980s.

KEY defending soldiers to fire down . Watchtowers
on their attackers with impunity. A Ming addition, these
1 Large, locally quarried rocks served as signal towers,
2 Kiln-fired bricks, cemented 7 Signal beacons were used to forts, living quarters, and
with a mortar of lime and warn of attack by burning dried storerooms for provisions.
glutinous rice wolf dung.

3 Bigger rocks and stones 8 Towers were spaced two
4 Tamped layer of earth and arrow shots apart to leave no part
rubble unprotected.

5 Surface of stone slabs and 9 The carriageway is on
bricks average 8 m (26 ft) high and 7 m
(21 ft) wide.
6 Ramparts enabled the

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

Cannons BEIJING 113
Another Ming addition, cannons
were used to defend the wall TIPS FOR VISITORS
and summon help.
• The wall is exposed to the
elements so be prepared for all
outcomes: wear layers of clothing
and a waterproof top, but also
bring some suncream.
• Bring plenty of water.
• The wall can be very steep in
places, so make sure you have
strong footwear with a good grip
such as hiking boots or tough
waterproof running shoes.

Multi-function wall
The wall enabled speedy communications
via smoke, flares, drums, and bells, as well as

allowing for the rapid transport of troops
across the country.

The Great Wall of China (Ming Dynasty)

INNER

Yellow MONGOLIA
River

DATONG BEIJING

TAIYUAN TIANJIN
Bo Hai

Qinghai
Lake

LANZHOU Yellow Sea

0 kilometers 400 400 Places to visit 3 Mutianyu &
0 miles 1 Jiayu Guan Huanghua Chen

Most visitors travel to the wall from Beijing (see p114), (see pp502–3) 4 Simata
but it is worth seeing the wall anywhere along its 2 Badaling & 5 Shanhaiguan
length. Also impressive are the restored forts at
Juyong Guan, Jiayu Guan, and Shanhaiguan. Juyong Gua (see p134)

114 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Exploring the Great Wall of China

A trip to the wall is a must for any visitor to Beijing. Most
hotels will be able to organize this for you, usually combined
with a visit to the Ming Tombs (see pp110–11). However, be
sure to find out whether there are any unwanted diversions
planned to cloisonné workshops, jade factories, or Chinese
medicine clinics. Small groups can have a more personalized
visit, and see the more remote parts of the wall, by hiring a
taxi for the day from Beijing and sharing the cost.

Stall selling tourist paraphernalia at the P Mutianyu Ruins at Huanghua Cheng clinging to the
Great Wall, Badaling 56 miles (90 km) north of Beijing, steep hillside
Mutianyu Town, Huairou County.
P Badaling @ 6 from Xuanwu Men. @ 916 from masonry at Huanghua Cheng
44 miles (70 km) northwest of Beijing. Dongzhimen then taxi. Open can be uneven and fairly
Tel (010) 6912 1737. @ 1 from Qian 7:30am–6pm daily. &  & chair lifts. treacherous in parts, so be
Men. Open 6:30am–6:30pm daily. & careful. This is the best option
The appeal of Mutianyu lies in for accommodation if you want
=- its dramatic hilly setting and to stay near the Great Wall.
slightly less intrusive tourist
Equipped with guardrails, cable industry. With a series of watch- P Simatai
car, pristine watchtowers, and towers along its restored length, 68 miles (110 km) northeast of Beijing,
tourist facilities, the restored the wall you can see here dates Miyun County. @ 6 from Xuanwu
Ming fortification at Badaling is from 1368 and was built upon Men. Closed for renovations. Due to
the most popular section of the the foundations of the wall built reopen 2014. &  (Apr–Nov).
Great Wall. The reward for during the Northern Qi dynasty
coming to Badaling is the (AD 550–77). The wall at Simatai has been
breathtaking view of the wall partially repaired, affording a
winding its way over the hills. To P Huanghua Cheng more genuine impression of
fully appreciate this, get away 37 miles (60 km) north of Beijing, the original wall. The steep and
from the crowds by walking as Huairou County. @ 916 from Dong- hazardous parts of the wall are
far as you can along the wall zhimen then taxi. Open daily. &  also a lot riskier to navigate.
either east or west of the Most visitors clamber along
entrance. The ticket includes Situated on the same stretch of the eastern section of wall at
admission to the Great Wall wall as Mutianyu, Huanghua is an Simatai, which leads to much
Museum. The pass at Juyong exhilarating section of Ming wall steeper sections of wall, and
Guan is on the way to Badaling that is far less developed than later, impassable ruins. There
and although restored, it is often other parts of the wall, although is a four-hour trek from Simatai
quieter than Badaling. With it has still been renovated. The to Jingshanling that provides
unscalable mountains on either great barrier is split into two here spectacular vistas, too. Simatai
side it is easy to see why this spot by a large reservoir; most is due to reopen in May 2014
was chosen for defense. There travelers take the right hand following renovations, but
are also some authentic Buddhist route on the other side of the check with your hotel in
carvings on a stone platform, or reservoir, as the left-hand section advance of your trip.
“cloud terrace,” in the middle of is more difficult to reach. Devoid
the pass that date back to the of guardrails, the crumbling
Yuan dynasty (1279–1368).
The restored section of the wall at Badaling, northwest of Beijing

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

BEIJING 115

m Eastern Qing
Tombs

77 miles (125 km) east of Beijing,
Zunhua County, Hebei Province.
Open May–Oct: 8am–5pm daily;
Nov–Apr: 9am–4:30pm daily. & 8

The remoteness of the Eastern Spirit Way to Emperor Shunzhi’s tomb at the Eastern Qing Tombs
Qing Tombs east of Beijing
and over the border in Hebei are the burial places of Qing (see p107) is buried at Ding
province makes them far less emperors: the tombs of the Dong Ling to the west, in the
popular than the Ming ones Shunzhi emperor (r. 1644–61), right-hand tomb of a complex
(see pp110–11), despite the fact Kangxi (r. 1661–1722), Qianlong of twin tombs, the other being
that the setting is even more (r. 1736–95), and Xianfeng (r. the resting place of Ci’an, eldest
splendid. In fact, the Eastern 1851–61) are open, while that of wife of the Xianfeng emperor.
Qing tombs make up the largest the Tongzhi emperor (r. 1862– Although both tombs were
and most complete imperial 74), at a distance from the main built in 1879, Cixi had her
cemetery in China, built on as tomb grouping, is not. A 3-mile magnificent tomb lavishly
grand a scale as the Forbidden (5-km) Spirit Way, an approach restored in 1895. The marble
City itself (see pp92–5). Of lined with guardian figures, carriageway up to the Hall of
the many tombs scattered leads to Shunzhi’s tomb, Xiao Eminent Favor notably locates
throughout the area, only five Ling, at the heart of the main the carving of the phoenix
tomb cluster, while several of (feng), symbol of the empress,
Incense burners in front of a spirit tower at the other tombs have their own above the carving of the dragon
the Eastern Qing Tombs smaller Spirit Ways. Southwest (long), symbol of the emperor.
of here lies Yuling, Qianlong’s West of Ding Dong Ling, Ding
tomb, with its incredible Ling is partially open and
chamber adorned with approached via a set of stone
Buddhist carvings and Tibetan animal statues. Look for the
and Sanskrit scriptures (rare smaller tombs of imperial
features at imperial and concubines, their roofs tiled
principally Confucian tombs). in green (not the yellow of
The devious Empress Cixi emperors and empresses).

Emperor Yongzheng

The son of the Kangxi emperor and a maidservant, Yongzheng

(r.1723–35) chose not to be buried at the Eastern Qing Tombs,

but perversely started a necropolis as far away as possible in

the Western Qing Tombs (Yixian County, Hebei Province).

Perhaps, racked with guilt, he could not face burial alongside

his father, whose will he had thwarted. For after Kangxi’s death,

Yongzheng seized the throne from his brother (his father’s

chosen successor), and declared himself the legitimate heir,

ruthlessly eliminating any other brothers and uncles who may

have been a threat to his rule. Despite this shaky start,

Yongzheng was an able ruler and a devout Buddhist,

punishing dishonesty among his officials and seeking to

improve the morals and education of his people. Another

possible reason for the switch was that he just wasn’t satisfied

with the Eastern Tombs and chose an area with a better

natural setting. Whatever the reason, those keen on Chinese

tomb architecture will enjoy the peace of the Western Qing

Tombs. Nearby, moved in 1995 to a commercial cemetery, Yongzheng in robes embroidered with symbols

are the remains of Pu Yi, the last emperor of China. of his power

116 BEIJING & THE NORTH

led to the Japanese occupation
of Beijing and a full-scale war.
For those with a keen interest
in this period of history, the
incident is marked by some
rather gruesome displays in
Wanping’s Memorial Hall.

. Tanzhe Temple

Mentougou district. 28 miles (45 km)
W of Beijing. q to Pingguo Yuan
(1 hr), then bus 931, tourist bus 7, or
taxi. Tel (010) 6086 2505. Open
8am–5pm daily. &

This enormous temple dates

back to the 3rd century AD,

when it was known as Jiafu Si.

It was later renamed Tanzhe

Temple, after the adjacent

mountain Tanzhe Shan, which

in turn got its name from the

Brick stupas at Talin Si or Stupa Forest Temple nearby Dragon Pool (Long Tan)

, Marco Polo balustrades along the length and the surrounding cudrania
(zhe) trees. It has a splendid

Bridge of the bridge are decorated mountainside setting, and its
by more than 400 carved halls rise up the steep incline.

stone lions, each one slightly The temple is especially famous

Wanping town, Fengtai District. 10 different in appearance. Local for its ancient trees, among

miles (16 km) SW of city center. q legend has it that these fierce- which is a huge ginkgo known

Wukesong, then bus 624. @ 339 looking statues come alive as the Emperor’s Tree. A slightly

from Beijing’s Lianhuachi bus during the night. Despite smaller tree close by is called

station. Open 7am–7pm the widening and extensive The Emperor’s Wife.
daily. & Memorial Hall: 101 restoration work done The most fascinating sight,
Wanpingcheng Nei Jie. Open over the centuries, a
8am–5pm Tue–Sun. & however, is the Stupa Forest
surprising amount of Temple (Talin Si) near the

the bridge is original. parking lot, with its marvellous

Straddling the In addition to its collection of brick stupas

Yongding River in antiquity, it is hidden among the foliage.

Wanping town, the significant as the Each stupa was constructed in

876-ft (267-m) long site of the disastrous memory of a renowned monk.

marble bridge was Marco Polo Bridge The towering edifices were built

first built during the Incident. This is in a variety of designs, including

Jin dynasty in 1189 Stone lion, Marco Polo where, on July 7, the graceful miyan ta or dense-

but destroyed by a Bridge 1937, the Japanese eave stupa, characterized by

flood. The current Imperial Army and ascending layers of eaves. The

structure dates to 1698. Nationalist Chinese soldiers earliest among them dates from

Known as Lugou Qiao in exchanged fire – an event that the Jin dynasty (1115–1234).

Chinese, the bridge acquired

its English name after Marco

Polo described it in his

famous treatise The Travels

(see p249). At the bridge’s

eastern and western ends

are stelae inscribed by the

Qing emperors, Kangxi

and Qianlong. The poetic

observation by Qianlong on a

stele at the eastern end reads

“lugou xiaoyue,” meaning “Moon

at daybreak at Lugou.”The The 11-arched Marco Polo Bridge known locally as Lugou Qiao

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

BEIJING 117

/ Peking Man Site

Zhoukoudian Village. 30 miles (48 km)
SW of Beijing. @ 917 from Beijing’s
Tianqiao bus station to Fangshan,
then bus 2 or taxi to site. Open
8:30am–4:30pm daily. &

Unearthed from a cave at The futuristic structure of the National Olympic Stadium
Zhoukoudian in the 1920s, the
40-odd fossilized human bones ment, which includes a large it is a picturesque outpost of
and primitive implements were landscaped park, an Olympic courtyard houses (siheyuan)
identified as the prehistoric Village, and many other stadia and rural Chinese buildings.
remains of Peking Man (Homo including the National Indoor Because of the close-knit
erectus Pekinensis), who lived Stadium and Swimming Center. nature of the original village
here over 500,000 years ago. It all the courtyards were inter-
was thought that this exciting Swiss architects Herzog and connected by small lanes. The
discovery provided the much de Meuron won the competi- entry ticket allows access to
sought-after missing link tion for the stadium with a bird’s the entire village, all of which
between Neanderthals and nest-like structure of apparently can be explored within a few
modern humans. Designated random, intertwined ribbons of hours. Look out for the Maoist
a UNESCO World Heritage Site, steel and concrete that simul- graffiti and slogans that survive
the area is geared toward taneously form both façade on the boundary walls; similar
specialists, although the small and structure. The gaps in the graffiti from the Cultural
museum has an interesting concrete lattice of the roof are Revolution has been white-
display of tools, ornaments, and filled with translucent inflated washed in most other towns.
bone fragments. Sadly, Peking bags, making the building
Man himself is not actually here waterproof while allowing light Chuandixia’s population
and the site has suffered neglect. to filter down to the spectators. consists of about 70 people
spread over a handful of
The National Stadium is one families. Accommodations can
of the most striking buildings be arranged for those wanting
to be found anywhere in the to explore the surrounding
world, and visitors are able to hills or simply experience the
take tours around it. During the rural hospitality. Alive to the
winter it is turned into a ski opportunities brought by
center. Plans to turn the area tourism, quite a few of the old
around the stadium into a shop- homesteads provide basic
ping and entertainment complex facilities at a reasonable price.
are ongoing, and the Xin’ao
Plaza mall has already opened
next to the subway station.

The prehistoric Peking Man Site @ Chuandixia
at Zhoukoudian

! National Olympic Near Zhaitang town. 56 miles (90 km) Traditional Ming and Qing dynasty houses,
Stadium NW of Beijing. q to Pingguo Yuan Chuandixia village
(1 hr), then bus 929 to Zhaitang (3 hrs)
ϔਦோय़฿ჩᇖྖ

118 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Shopping & Entertainment clothing. Try Taikoo Li in Sanlitun
in Beijing Lu, which is great for named
brands, Shin Kong Place, near
Beijing’s shopping scene has undergone a dramatic change Dawang Lu subway, for designer
and slick department stores co-exist with older retail outlets. stores, or Parkway Green
Its vast array of retail options range from shopping malls and Fangcaodi, near Dongdaqiao
department stores to specialist stores, boutiques, antique and metro, for brands and dining.
silk markets, and street vendors. The main shopping street
Wangfujing Dajie (see p100) is very popular with Beijingers Carpets & Textiles
and visitors from out of town, but a raft of malls offer up stiff
competiton. Regrettably, many of the traditional shops no Beijing’s markets sell a variety
longer exist with the exception of those on Dazhalan Jie of carpets (ditan) from Tibet,
(see p91). Beijing also has a lively entertainment scene, with Gansu, and Xinjiang, but visitors
a growing number of pubs, bars, and clubs, and numerous should bargain hard on all
venues for traditional Beijing Opera, theater, and music. purchases. The Qian Men
Carpet Company on Xingfu
Shopping (see p91) for its lacquerware, Dajie has fine handmade
ceramics, paintings, and crafts. carpets from Xinjiang, Mongolia,
Visitors can buy anything from Huayi Classical Furniture sells and Tibet. Other shops
traditional handicrafts, collec- classical antique, restored, and worth visiting are Antique
tibles, carpets, and silks to reproduction furniture. Carpets, the carpet stores
electronic goods, furniture, on Liulichang, the Liangma
antiques, and designer clothing Books Antique Market, and the
in Beijing. Many stores listed stalls at Panjiayuan Market.
here arrange packaging and It is advisable to take your own
shipping as part of their service. reading material when traveling The cramped confines of Silk
to China, as the choice of Street Alley Market have been
Antiques, Crafts & Curios imported and English-language transformed into the multi-story
fiction in Beijing is quite limited. New Silk Street Alley Market;
Genuine antiques (gudong) are But a fine selection of photo- experienced shoppers say it
hard to find. Objects dating graphic, cultural, and travel lacks the character of the old
between 1939 and 1795 cannot books on China can be found. place and visitors should still
officially be taken out of the Page One, which has three haggle for good prices. The
country without a certificate, separate mall locations, has popular Yuanlong Silk
anything older may not be an excellent selection of inter- Corporation sells silk fabric and
exported at all (see pp586–7). national and Chinese books a large selection of ready-made
The most interesting market across many of the most silk garments, and the Beijing
for antiques and curios is popular subjects. It also hosts Silk Store south of Qian Men
Panjiayuan Market in the regular literature, culture and has good value silk. For upscale
southeast of town. Open all art events, as well as author clothes try Na-Li, where it is still
week, for the best deals and talks and book signings. fine to haggle. The Yashow
pickings, visitors should aim Clothing Market has four floors
to get there at sunrise during The Bookworm should be of clothes, fabric, and curios.
weekends to rummage through your first choice for books; it
the Bodhisattva statues, has a great selection to either Entertainment
ceramics, screens, calligraphy, buy or borrow.
and variety of ornaments. The The arts scene in Beijing
Beijing Curio City nearby Department Stores & received a huge boost with
also has a vast collection of Shopping Malls the opening of the futuristic
ceramics, furniture, jewelry, and National Center for Performing
Tibetan art on several floors. The Despite fierce competition from Arts, better known as The Egg.
large Hong Qiao Market near new specialized outlets, huge Entertainment is largely based
the Temple of Heaven (see department stores are still on the performance arts, such
pp102–3) is good for collectibles, popular with the Chinese. Xidan as Beijing Opera and traditional
souvenirs, and pearls, especially Dajie is known for its concen- theater. English-language
the section on the third and tration of stores. In a frenzy of theater is increasingly popular,
fourth floors. Be aware, however, consumerism, giant new malls as are art exhibitions and music
that many of the goods on sale have sprung up everywhere concerts. The rock, punk, and
here are not original items. (there are a lot around Xi Dan jazz live music scene is
Visitors could spend a few hours subway station), stocked with a rapidly expanding.
browsing through Liulichang wide range of branded items and
Cinemas show a limited range
of English-language films, as
there are only a small number
of foreign films admitted each
year. Many embassies and bars

BEIJING 119

show movies (either in English shows in the marvellous Prince night at 7pm. Shows featuring
or with subtitles). There is a Gong’s Mansion (see p96) at opera and acrobatics take place
good cinema at Taikoo Li 7:30pm. Visitors who are part at the Lao She Teahouse
in Sanlitun. All European and of tour groups are usually taken throughout the afternoon and
Hollywood films are pirated to the Liyuan Theater in the evenings. The Tianqiao Happy
on release, and appear in the Jianguo Hotel. Teahouse also stages similar
markets as DVDs and VCDs of performances every evening
variable quality. Check out the Traditional Theater at 6:30pm.
listings in the English-language
entertainment magazines found The city’s numerous tea- Pubs, Bars & Clubs
in the expat pubs on Sanlitun houses are excellent venues
Lu, as well as in hotels. The for the enjoyment of a The capital’s bar scene is lively
Beijinger has good listings. variety of performances such and varied, with a strong focus
as traditional Chinese music, on the Nali Patio area of Taikoo
Beijing Opera storytelling, Chinese Li (North Sanlitun Lu), where the
opera, acrobatics, and rooftop terrace at Fez is very
Traditional performances martial arts. popular with local hipsters on
of Beijing Opera (jingju) weekends; and South Sanlitun
are staged in the splendid The extraordinary body- Lu, which sits on the opposite
Zhengyici Theater, the sole bending feats of Chinese side of Gongti Bei Lu to Nali
surviving wooden theater in acrobats (zaji) can be seen at Patio, where uber-chic modern
China that was formerly a several places in the capital. speakeasy Janes and Hooch
temple. Shows begin on Popular performances are serves cool cocktails with jazzy
most nights at 7:30pm. The held nightly at the Chaoyang lounge music. The lakes of
Huguang Guildhall has a Theater at 5:15 and 7:15pm, Houhai are also home to several
similarly distinguished setting, and the Beijing Acrobat Troupe bars. One of the first, and still
with daily performances at stages performances at 7pm considered to be one of the
7:15pm. During the warmer at the Wan Sheng Theater. best, the No Name Bar near
months, there are evening Performances are also held at Hou Hai is well worth a visit.
the Universal Theater every

DIRECTORY

Antiques, Crafts & Department Yashow Clothing Lao She Teahouse
Curios Stores & Malls Market 3 Qian Men Xi Dajie,
58 Gongti Bei Lu, Xuanwu. Map 3 C2.
Beijing Curio City Parkview Green Chaoyang District. Tel (010) 6303 6830.
21 Dongsanhuan Fangcaodi
Nan Lu, 9 Dongdaqiao Rd, Yuanlong Silk National Center for
W of Huawei Bridge, Chaoyang District. Corporation Performing Arts
Chaoyang District. 15 Yongding Men Dong Xi Chang’an Jie.
Taikoo Li Jie. Map 4 D4. Tel (010) 6655 0000.
Hong Qiao Market Sanlitun North Rd, at jnct
Hong Qiao Lu, with Gongti Bei Lu. Beijing Opera Tianqiao Happy
Chaoyang District. Teahouse
Map 4 E3. Carpets & Textiles Huguang Guildhall 1 Bei Wei Lu, Xuanwu
3 Hufangqiao Lu. District. Map 3 C3.
Huayi Classical Antique Carpets Map 3 B3. Tel (010) 6304 0617.
Furniture 4A6 Gongti Donglu, Tel (010) 6351 8284.
89 Xiaodian Dongwei Lu, Chaoyang District. Universal Theater
Chaoyang District. Prince Gong’s 10 Dong Zhi Men Nan
Beijing Silk Store Mansion Dajie. Map 2 F3.
Panjiayuan Market 5 Zhubaoshi, 17 Qianhai Xi Jie. Tel (010) 6416 9893.
Panjiayuan Lu, Qian Men Dajie. Map 1 B3.
Chaoyang District. Map 3 C2. Tel (010) 8328 8149. Wan Sheng Theater
Open 6am–3pm daily. 95 Tianqiao Shichang
Liangma Antique Zhengyici Theater Street. Map 3 C3.
Books Market 220 Qian Men Tel (010) 6303 7449.
27 Liangmaqiao Lu, Xiheyan Dajie.
Page One Chaoyang District. Map 3 C2. Bars & Clubs
Sanlitun Village Taikoo Li, Tel (010) 8315 1650.
Chaoyang District. Na-Li Fez
See website for other Sanlitun Beilu, Traditional 6/F Nali Patio, Taikoo Li,
locations: ∑ Chaoyang District. Theater 81 Sanlitum North Rd.
pageonegroup.com Tel (010) 5208 6188.
Qian Men Carpet Chaoyang Theater
The Bookworm Company 36 Dongsanhuan Bei Lu. Janes and Hooch
Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Lu. F1, Building 3, 59 Xingfu Tel (010) 6507 2421. Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei
Dajie. Map 4 F3. Lu. Tel (010) 6503 2757.

120 BEIJING STREET FINDER

BEIJING STREET FINDER

The map references given for all sights, what other features are marked
hotels, restaurants, shopping, and on them, including subway, train, and
entertainment venues described in this bus terminals, hospitals, and tourist
chapter refer to the following two maps. information centers. Beijing has extended
The page grid superimposed on the a long way beyond the main city center
schematic map below shows which parts and the Greater Beijing map on page 86
of Beijing’s city center are covered in this gives an idea of the area to the north,
Street Finder. An index of the street names west, and south of central Beijing. Getting
marked on the maps follows on the used to the directional system of road
opposite page. The key, set out below, naming (see opposite) is vital to getting
indicates the scales of the maps and shows around easily in cities.

Haidian

Xi Dong Cheng
Cheng
Dian
Men

Chongwen

Xuanwu

Key to Street Finder Temple Scale of Map Above
Major sight Church
Place of interest Mosque
Other important building
Train station 0 kilometers 2
Bus station
Subway station 0 miles 2

Tourist information Scale of Maps 1–4
Hospital
0 meters 500

0 yards 500

BEIJING STREET FINDER 121

Street Finder Index

In street names, the suffix “jie” meaning street, or Jiaodaokou Dong Dajie 2D3 X
“lu” meaning road are often interchangeable. continues
Therefore, when asking for directions or an 2E3 Xi’an Men Dajie 1A4
address, note that Tian Tan Jie may also be known Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie 2D3 continues 1B4
as Tian Tan Lu. Many streets are also called “dajie” or Jin Bao Jie 2E5 Xianyukou Jie 3C2
avenue. Directionals such as “zhong” (middle), and 2F5 Xiaxie Jie 3A2
the four cardinal points – “dong” (east), “xi” (west), continues 2F1
“bei” (north), and “nan” (south) – are often added to Jing Shan Qian Jie 1C4 Xibahe Nan Lu 3A2
street names. The other key word mentioned here
is “hutong” (alleyway). continues 2D4 Xicaochang Jie
Jingtu Hutong
Jinyuchi Zhong Jie 2D2 continues 3B2

L 4D3 Xi Chang’an Jie 3B1

Laoqianggen Jie continues 3C1
Liuyin Jie
Longtan Lu Xidan Bei Dajie 1A5
Luomashi Dajie
Xi Damochang Jie 3C2
M
3A2 continues 4D2
Maweimao Hutong
Meishuguan Houjie 1B3 Xi Huashi Dajie 4E2

A Dong Si Shi Tiao 2E3 NP 4F4 Xijiaomin Xiang 3B1
continues 2F3
Andeli Bei Jie 1C1 2E3 Nacaochang Jie 3B3 continues 3C1
Anding Men Dong Dajie 2E2 Dong Si Shi San Tiao 2E3 Nanchang Jie Ximi Hutong 4D2
Anding Men Xi Dajie 1C2 Dong Si Shi Si Tiao 2E4 Nan Chizi Dajie
2D2 Dong Si Bei Dajie 2E5 Nan Gangzi Jie Xinde Jie 1B1
continues 2D2 Dong Si Nan Dajie 2E4 Nanheng Dong Jie
Anding Men Nei Dajie 2D1 Dong Si Xi Dajie 4D2 Xingfu Dajie 4F3
Anding M en Wai Dajie Dong Xinglong Jie 4E2 continues
2F2 Nanheng Xi Jie 4E3 Xinjiekou Bei Dajie 1A2
continues 2F2 Nan Heyan Dajie 2D4 Xinjiekou Nan Dajie 1A3
Dong Zhi Men Bei Dajie 2F3 Nan Qiaowan Jie 1A1
Dong Zhi Men Bei Xiao Jie 2F3 Nan Xiaoshikou Jie Xinjiekouwai Dajie
Dong Zhi Men Nan Dajie 2E3 Nan Xinhua Jie
Dong Zhi Men Nan Xiao Jie 2F3 Puhuangyu Lu Xinkang Jie 1A1
Dong Zhi Men Nei Dajie 4F1
B 2F4 Q continues 1B1
continues 4E1
Baizhifang Dong Jie Dong Zongbu Hutong Qianmachang Hutong 1A3 Xinwenhua Jie 3A1
Baochan Hutong Douban Hutong Qian Men Dajie
Bei Chang Jie 3A4 Dongdan Bei Dajie Qian Men Dong Dajie 3C1 Xi Rongxian Hutong 3A1
Bei Chizi Dajie 1A3 Qian Men Xi Dajie
Bei Gangzi Jie 1C5 Qian Men Xiheyan Jie 4D1 continues 3B1
Bei Heyan Dajie 2D5 Qingyun Hutong
Beijing Zhan Dong Jie 4E3 4F3 Xishiku Dajie 1B4
Beijing Zhan Jie 2D4 RS
Beijing Zhan Xi Jie 4F1 3A3 Xisi Bei Dajie 1A4
4F1 Rufuli
continues 4E1 Shangxie Jie Xizhi Men Nei Dajie 1A3
Bei Wei Lu 4E2 Shengou Hutong 3B3 Xizongbu Hutong
Bei Xinhua Jie 3C3 4E1
Bei Yangshikou Jie 3B1 T 3A3 Xuanwu Men Dong Dajie 3B2
Bingjiaoxie Jie 4E2 4D1 Xuanwu Men Dong Heyan Jie 3B2
3C2 Taijichang Dajie
continues 3C3 Taiping Jie 4D3 continues 3A2
Taiping Qiao Dajie
F 4F2 Xuanwu Men Xi Dajie 3A2
continues
Fahua Si Jie Taoranting Lu 3B2 Xuanwu Men Nai Dajie 3A1
Fayuan Si Qian Jie Tianqiao Nan Dajie
Fenfangliuli Jie 4E3 4E5 Xueyuan Nan Lu 1A1
Fucheng Men Nei Dajie 3A3 continues
Fu Xue Hutong 3B3 Tian Tan Dong Lu Y
1A4 Tian Tan Lu
continues 2D3 Tieshuxie Jie 1C2 Yong’an Lu 3C3
Fuxing Men Nei Dajie 2E3
Fuyou Jie 3A1 continues 3C2 Yongding Men Dong Binhe Lu
3B1 Tiyuguan Lu
C Tonglingge Lu 4D2 4D5

W 3C2 Yongding Men Dong Jie 4D4

Caishikou Dajie 3A3 Wangfujing Dajie 3C2 Yongding Men Xi Binhe Lu 3C5
Wenhuiyuan Lu
continues 5A3 G Wenjin Jie 4D2 continues 3B5
Wulutong Jie
Chaoyang Men Bei Dajie 2F4 Guang’an Men Nei Dajie Wusi Dajie Yongding Men Xi Jie 3C4
Guangming Lu
Guangqu Men Nei Dajie 3A3 continues 3B4
4F3
Chaoyang Men Bei Xiao Jie 2F4 continues 4E2 Yongding Men Nei Dajie 3C4
Gulou Dong Dajie 4F2
Chaoyang Men Nan Dajie 2F5 1C3 3A4 Yongding Men Wai Dajie 3C5
continues 2D3
Chaoyang Men Nan Xiao Jie 2F5 Gulouwai Dajie 1C1 3A2 Yonghe Gong Dajie 2E3
Guowang Hutong 1C2
Chaoyang Men Nei Dajie 2E4 Guoxing Hutong 1C2 4D2 continues 2E2
Guozi Jian 2E2
continues 2F4 You’an Men Dong Binhe Lu 3A5

Chongwen Men Dong Dajie 4E2 continues 3B5

continues 4F2

Chongwen Men Xi Dajie 4E2 4D1 Z

Chongwen Men Xi Heyan 4D2 3B4
Zhangzi Zhong Lu
Chongwen Men Nei Dajie 4E1 2D3
1A5 continues 2E3
Chongwen Men Wai Dajie 4E2 H 1A4 Zhaodengyu Lu 1A3
3B4 Zhengyi Lu 4D1
continues 4E3 Haiyuncang Hutong 3C3 Zhushikou Dong Dajie 4D2
Heiyaochang Jie 3C4 continues 4E2
D 1A3 2F3 4E4 Zhushikou Xi Dajie 3B3
4D2 continues 3B3 4D3 continues 3C3
Dajiao Hutong 3C2 Hepingli Dong Jie 3B4 3B2 Zhuying Hutong 4E2
Daxi Hutong 1B2 Hepingli Xi Jie 2F1 3A5
Dazhalan Jie 1A2 2E1 3B3 Zuo’an Men Dong Jie 3B5
Desheng Men Dong Dajie 1B2 continues 2E2 4F4
Desheng Men Xi Dajie 2D3 Hepingli Zhong Jie 2E1 4E3 continues 4E5
Desheng Men Nei Dajie 1B3 Hongxian Hutong 3B3 4F5
Di’an Men Dong Dajie 1C3 Hufang Lu 3B3 3A1 Zuo’an Men Nei Dajie
Di’an Men Xi Dajie 4D1
4E1 Zuo’an Men Xi Binhe Lu
continues 4F2
Dong Chang’an Jie 3B1 continues

continues J 4F1 2D5
Dong Huashi Dajie 4E1 1A1
Dong Rongxian Hutong Jianguo Men Bei Dajie 4F1 1B4
Jianguo Men Nei Dajie 3A2 1B1
2D4
continues
Jiaochangkou Hutong

XUEYUAN NAN LU DAJING HUTONG WULUTONG JIE ANDELI DONG JIE
D E WAI XI HOU JIE JIUGULOUWAI DAJIE
WENHUIYUAN LU XINKANG JIE JIE TYUAN Rending
XINJIEKOU WAI DAJIE XINDE HU T O N G Hu GULOUWAI DAJIE
ANDELI BEI JIE
DESHENGLI
XIJIE G H ONGCI XIA N RENDING HU
GONG YUAN
ZHONG JIE
ANDELI NAN JIE

JIE ANDELI QINGNIANHU
JIAOCHANG K O U NAN JIE

LIBAISI JIE LINJIA
HUTONG

ANDE LU ANDE LU

BINGJIAOKOU HUT ONG LU

DES HENG MEN XI B I NHE Arrow

Jishuitan Tower

DESHENG MEN XI DAJIE DESHENG MEN DONG DAJIE ANDING MENXIJIAO7CHTIAANOGXIAO DESHENG MEN NEI DAJIE
XI SI B EI D AJ I E X I N J I E K OU NA N DA J I E XINJIEKOU BEI DAJI E Huifeng XIHAI B E I YAN Former BHAUBTUOKNOGU XITAO HUTONG Gulou ZHONGTAO HUT ONG
Temple Xi Hai Residence Dajie
XINJIEKOU XIHAI DONG YAN of Song
7 TIAO YA N Qingling DASHIQIAO HUTONGQ
JIUGULOU DAJIE
UTONG BANQIAOTOU XIHAI NAN GULOU ZHAOFU JIEXIAOSHIQIAOGUOWANG GUO
XIJIAOCHANG HUTONG TIAO HUTONG HUTONG HUT

BEI CAOCHANG XINJIEKOU 4 TIAO XING
HUTONG ONG

GXINKAI UICHE IAHNUMT OANCHGA NG WANGZUO
TONG TONG
HHUETITOAN G H XI HUTONG
H OUHAI DOUFUCHI HUTONG
U Hou Hai

N S
U H

XIZHANG H O XINJIEKOU DONG JIE YANGFANG HUTONG DAJIE Bell Tower
H
Xing Jie
D Kou LUO'ER HUTONG MIANHUA HUTONG

Z HHEUNTGOJNUGE BEI Guanghua
HANGKONG Temple
XIZHI MEN NEI DAJIE YAN Drum Tower
HUTONG BOQICANG DHAUSTHOI HU GULO U
DAHOUCANG HUTONG HUTONG NG H OUHAI NAN YAN
NACAOCHANG JIE DAXINKAI HUTONG
Z H AO D E N G Y U L U SANBULAO HONGSHAN SONGSHU JIE LIUYIN
HUTONG HUTONG Mansion of

LIU XIANG QIANGONGYONG LIUHAI QIAN AN
BEIWEI HUTONG HUTONG HUTONG
D O N GHBUUTYOANQGL AO DI'AN MEN WAI DAJIE
DONGGUANYING JIE Prince Gong HAI DONG YAN FANGZHUANCHANG
HUTONG HUTONG
Museum of YANNIAN BEI YA QIANHA MAO ' E R
Mei Lanfang HUTONG Q IANHAI N
Qian Hai
DACHENG XIANG JIE
LON G TOUJING
D AJ IAO H U T ONG BAOCHAN HUGUOSI JIE DINGFU JIE JINGYONGLI I NAN Y
JINGUO HU HUTONG Ping’Anli XINGHUA
YUYOU HUTONG
HUTONG
TO N G YUDE HUTONG

PING'AN DAJIE H UTO NG DI'AN M EN XI DAJIE

D ONGLANGXIA QIAN CHE AIMIN 4 BEI HAI DI'AN MEN NAI
HUTONG XIANG PARK DAJIE
CUIHUAHENG JIE FUGUO JIE DAJIE XI SI BEI BA TIAO TAIPINGCANG LIANZIK U
HUTONG Bei Hai HUTONG

Z H O NG M AO J I AWA N
XI SI BEI QI TIAO DAGUAIBANG HUTONG
XIHUANGCHENGGEN BEI JIE
XI SI BEI LIU TIAO AIMIN JIE BE I H A I B EI JIA D AO XIANG

CUIHUA Q I AO XI SI BEI WU TIAO HUANGHUAMEN JI'ANSUOYOU
JIE XI SI BEI SI TIAO JIE
XI SI BEI SAN TIAO AIMIN 7
DHAUCTHOANYGE XIANG JING SHAN HOU JIE
TAIPI NG
DAHONGLUOCHANG JIE XISHIKU DAJIE

ANPING XISI BEI ER TIAO DASHIZOU
XIANG HUTONG

XISI BEI TOU TIAO White Dagoba JING SHAN XI JIE Children’s JING SHAN DONG JIE
Temple Palace
Miaoying Temple Guangji Xi Si Xishiku Jade
White Dagoba Temple Church Island JING SHAN PARK
(COAL HILL)
FUCHENG MEN NEI DAJIE

YANGROU HUTONG Tuancheng
(Round City)
QIAO D AJ I E ZHUANTA HUTONG XI'AN MEN DAJIE JING SHAN QIAN
NENGREN HUTONG WENJIN JIE
HUTONG BANSA N G HUTONG XIXIN HUTONG FUYOU JIE Western Inner Eastern
JINGSHE N GUANGMING HUTONG Palaces Court Palaces
SAND A OZHALAN DAYUAN H U TONGBANBI HUTONG
GH UTONG
NAN JIE
BINGMA SI HUTONG XIDAN BEI DAJIE BEI CHANG JIE
TAIP ING XIHUANGCHENGGEN HUZHU XIANG Forbidden City
HUTONG FENGSHENG HUTONG
HOUNIWA HU TONGFENZI HUTONG

XIEJIE

YUQIAN SH IFANGXI AO J DONG Zhong Hai Outer
IE Court
LINGJING HUTONG
HONGMIAO HUTONG Lingjing Hutong Meridian
Gate
PICAI H UTONG BEIY IN HUTO NG

XI CHENG TAIPUSI JIE

D AMUCANG
HUTONG

HUANGSI DAJIE QINGNIANHU BEI JIE HEPINGLI XI JIE
LIUYIN
GONG YUAN ANDING MEN WAI DAJIE HEPINGLI BEI JIE

QINGNIAN HU HEPINGLI ZHONG JIE HEPINGLI DONG JIE JIA O LI NJI ADAO XIBAHE NAN LU
GONG YUAN Hepinglibeijie EI DONGTUCHENG LU

Qingnian Hu Temple of Earth Bahe

QINGNIANHU XILIJIE XI JIE HEPINGLI NAN JIE HUTONG

DI TAN MINWANG B

PARK LI

H EPIN G MINWANG NAN HUTONG

Andingmenxibin

XI DAJIE ANDING MEN DONG DAJIE DONG ZHI MEN

DON G TAO Anding Men Yonghe Gong QINGLONG HUTONG D O N G Z H I M E N B E I X I AO J I E BEIGUAN TI NG
HUTONG W U D AOY ING HU TO N G HUTONG
BEI DAJIE
BEI LUOGU XIANG ANDING MEN NEI Lama YONGHE GONG DAJIE
DAJIE Temple JINGGUAN HUTONG

JINGTU CHENIANDIAN HUTONG Confucius PAOJU HUTONG Z HENXIAN HUTONG MIN'AN HUTONG Beijing Capital
HUTONG XIEJIA HUTONG Temple H O UYONGKANG DONG ZHI MEN BEIZHONGJI International
HUAFENG
HUTONG FENSITING HUTONG GUOZI JIAN HUTONG Airport Train Station

G FANGJIA HUTONG

N NANGUAN Dong
GONG YUAN Zhi Men
HA BEIXINQIAO SAN TIAO
NG

OJIHNUTGOC JIA ODA OKOU BE I T O U TI AO C AO YUAN XIYANGGUAN H UTON G Dong Zhi Men
BE IX I QIAOTO U T IA O HUTO N G DONG SHOUPA Bus Terminal
A
HU TONG
I Beixinqiao

X JIAODAOKOU DONG DAJIE DONG ZHI MEN NEI DAJIE
DONG DAJIE

TU'ER HUTONG SHIQUE HUTONG D A JU H UTON D O N G Z H I M EN N A N X I AO J IE BEIXINCANG HUTONG DONG ZHI MEN
XIANG'ER HUTONG G NAN DAJIE
JU'ER HUTONG JIAODAOKOU XINTAICANG XIAOJU HUTONG ZHONG
HOEYUAN'ENSI HUTONG NAN DAJIE BEIGONGJIANGYING HUTONG
NAN LUOGU XIANG
SHAJING HUTONG TAIXING HUTON
HUTONG BEIBINGMASI HUT ONG XIGUAN HUTONG
G DONG SI SHI SI TIAO
YU'ER DONGMIANHUA HUTONGBEI HEYA N DAJIE FU XUE HUTONG DONG SI SHI SAN TIAO HAIYUNCANG ZHONG JIE
HUTONG BANCHANG HUTONG HUTONG
HUTONG
DONG SI SHI ER TIAO BIANDAN
HUTONG
FU XIA NG CHAODOU HUTONG Zhangzi Zhong Lu DONG SI SHI YI TIAO Dong Si
HUTONG Shi Tiao
ZHANGZI ZHONG LU
DI'AN MEN DONG SI SHI TIAO
DONG DAJIE NANJIANZI HUTONG
BEIHE HUTONG XIEZUO HUTONG DONG SI JIN TIAO XI ZHONG JIE
DONG SI BA TIAO
DONG BANQIAO JIE HUANGCHENGEN BEI JIE S H A N L AO WANGZHIMA HUTONG DONG SI BEI DAJIE CHAOYANG MEN BEI XIAO JIE CHAOYANG MEN
HUTONG NANGONGJIANGYING BEI DAJIE
MEISHUGUAN
HOUJIE WEIJIA HUTONG DONG SI QI TIA O HUTONG BEI DOUYA HUTONG NAN DOUYA HUTO N
DONGMENCANG HUTONG D O U B A N H U T O N G
SHIJINHUAYUAN HUTONG DONG CHENG

DONG SI LIU TIAO

SONGZHUYUA N YUQUN HUTONG LIUSHUI NANMENCANG HUTONG
BEIXIANG QIANLIANG HUTONG XIANG

S A N YA N J I N G DONG SI WU TIAO
HU TONG

DIAN SH ATAN B E I JIE MEN National ArtDONG DONG SI SI TIAO CANGNAN HUTONG
Museum of China G
S H ATA N DONG SI SAN TIAO
HOUJIE
Fuwangfu
JIE Temple

WUSI DAJIE DONG SI XI DAJIE Dong Si Chaoyang Men
CUIHUA HUTONG
DAJIE CHAOYANG MEN NEI DAJIE
YINCHA HUT O NG
DONG HUANGCHENGEN NAN JIE DONGCHANG DUOFU XIANG QIANCHAOM IAN Q I A NGUAIBANG CHAOYANG MEN NAN XIAO JIE BEI ZHUGAN HUTONG CHAOYANG MEN C H AO YA N G M E N
HUTONG HUTONG H UT ONG ZHUGAN HUTONG NAN DAJIE
BAOFANG HUTONG NAN ZHUGAN HUTONG
FUQIANG HUTONG DONG SI NAN DAJIE LISHI HUTONG XINXIAN HUTONG
Capital
CHIZI WANGFUJING DAJIE Theater DENGCAO HUTONG

St. Joseph’s YANLE HUTONG F A N G J I AY U A N XIAOPAIFANG HUTONG SANFENG
Church BENSI HUTONG HUTONG HUTONG

BEI ZHIDE DENGSHIKOU XIJIE Dengshikou NEIWUBU JIE DAFANJIA HUTONG C H AOWAI T O U TI AO
QIHELOU BEI XIANG SHIJIA HUTONG LUMICANG HUTONG BEI HE YAN
NAN XIANG DENGSHIKOU DAJIE

SHAOJIU HUTONG BAISHU HUTONG GANMIAN HUTONG Zhihua
XILA HUTONG XITANGZI HUTONG Temple
CHENGUANG JIE GANYU HUTONG
LUMICHANGHOU HUTONG

XIAOYABAO HUTONG BEIZONGBU
HUTONG
DONG HUAMEN DAJIE DONG'AN MEN JINYU HUTONG JIN BAO JIE J I N B AO J I E BEIPAIFANG
DAJIE HONGXING HUTONG HUTONG
Mahakala Sun Dong’an
TempleNAN CHIZI Plaza DONGTANGZI HUTONG
DAJIE
MEIZHA HUTONG ZH AOTAN G Z I
HUTONG

DAZHI HUTONG H P I KU GXUANWU WAI DAJIE XUANW U MEN NAI DAJIE BEI'ANL I FUYOU JIE NAN CHANG JIE
U TON H E N G 2 TI AO
ZHONGSHENG CAAC
XI CHENG HUTONG (buses to Nan Hai ZHONG SHAN PARK OF THE
PARK PEOPLE'S
Cultural Palace MINFENG H airport) CULTURE
for Nationalities

FUXING MEN NEI Xidan Xinhua Men Tian’an Men
DAJIE
XI CHANG'AN JIE Tian'an Men Xi

Capital Cinema
XI'ANFU HUTONG BEI XINHUA JIE
TONGLINGGE LU BEIXINPING HUTONG Beijing Tian’an Men
DALIUBUKOU Concert Hall National Square
JIE
Center for

Performing Arts

XINWENHUA JIE XI RONGXIAN HUTONG DONG RONGXIAN Great Hall of
XIJIULIANZI HUTONG HUTONG the People
BINGBUWA
XIXINLLANZI HUTONG HUTONG Mao Zedong

YONGNING Mausoleum
HUTONG
South XINBI JIE XIJI AO M IN XIANG Bank Tour Bus
WENJIA Cathedral of China Station
JIE
Qian Men
Changchun Jie
Xuanwu Men Heping Men Bus Terminal Qian Men
XUANWU MEN
XI DAJIE XUANWU MEN DONG DAJIE QIAN MEN XI DAJIE
Zhengyici Beijing

SHANGXIE JI E XUANWU MEN DONG HEYAN JIE Opera Theater HEPING MEN WAI QIAN MEN XIHOUHEYAN JIE Beijing Planning
CHUKU Y I N G HUTO NG DONG JIE Q I A N M E N XIHEYAN JI E Exhibition Hall

S AJ NI EMI AO T I E N I AO H U SHEJIA PAIZI BUXIANGZI HUTONG
HUTONG TONG HUTONG
HAIBAI H UTO NG QIAN MEN DAJIE
YONG G U A N G X I J I E BEI LIU XIANG NAN XINHUA JIE YANSHOU JIESANJING LANGFANGTOU
YANGWEIHUTONG TIAO ZHUBAOSHI JIE LIANGSHIDIAN JIE
HUTONG
XIAXIE JIE QIANQIN GCHANG LIULICHANG XI JIE X IE JI E MEISHI JIE XIANYUK OU
HUTONG LIULI X I AN G JI E DAJIANG
LIULICHANG M E IZ HU
CHUNSHUSHANGTOU DONG JIE BINGJIAOXIE
TIAO HONGXIAN YA N G
HUTONG SHANJIANKOU
LAJOIEQIANGGEN JIHAUOTCOHNAGNG KOU JIE DAZHALAN JIE
NAN LIU XIANG WEIRAN UN
TIEMEN HUTONG X ICAO C HA NG HUTONG UY IXNIGETAOJ IXEI E SHAAN XIXIANG SHITOU HUTON G Z OJ INEG S H U X I E
JIE BAISH

DI N GJU HUTONG J I A D AO J U MIA7NTHIUAAOXIA TIE SH SHIJING HUTONG
HUTONG PEIYING HUTONG

Caishikou HUTONG

GUANG'AN MEN NEI DAJIE LUOMASHI Z H U S H I K O U X I D A J I ELAZHU PUCHENSHI XI C AOS H I JI E
BEIDAJI DAJIE HUTONG
HUTONG
MADAO CUZHANG HUTONG BEIBANJIE HUT O N XIANG QIAN'ER HUTONG XIJING LU WANMING LU BHAUNTZOHNAGNG YAO ' E R
HUTONG HUTONG XIANGCHANG LU HUTONG
XIZHUA N HUTONG FENFANGLIULI JIE LIUXUE LU
SHURU PEIYU LANMAN HUTONG BAO'ANSIYINGXIN JIE FUZHOUGUANQIAN JIEBeijing HUFANG LU HZUHTAOONZGHUI ZI
HUTONG HUTONG NANBAN JIE HUTONG JIE JIAJIA HUTONG Workers’

Fayuan DAJIE G Club CHUZIYING
MISHI HUTONG HUTONG
Cow St Temple Liyuan YONG'AN LU
Theater
Mosque

HSUHTAOLNAGN J I AOZI FUCHANGJIETOU TIAO XINNONG
NANHENG XI JIE
Friendship NAN DAJIE TIANQIAO
WANSHOU Hospital
PARK
NANHENG DONG JIE NANHUA XI JIE BEI WEI LU FUCHANG
DONG J Tianqiao Bus JIE
PEN'ER HUTONG RA IE Terminal
H EI YAO C HA NG JI E
CAISHIKOU WU T IAO Tianqiao JIE Beijing
Theater Natural
History
NANHUA TAIPING JIE DONGJING LU Museum

Taoranting NAN WEI LU

BAIZHIFANG DONG JIE RUFULI TAO TIAN TAN XI
Peking Opera HUTONG
Theater LOHNUGTZOHUNAGHUAI North N T ING LU
Gate YONGDING MEN NEI
DAJIE
Waterside Xiannong Tan
Pavilion XIANNONGTAN JIE
LIREN East
JIE LIREN DONG JIE Gate

BA NB UQI AO H U TO NG Central Academy of West

Traditional Opera Gate Taoranting
Hu
TAORANTING
XUANWU PARK Xiannong Tan
Stadium

ZUO'AN MEN DONG JIE LU YONGDING MEN XI JIE
YOU'AN MEN DONG BINHE YONGDING MEN XI BINHE LU

DAJIE Yongding Men YONGDING MEN WAI
Bus Terminal DAJIE

Beijing South
Train Station

CAISHIKOU

NAN CHIZI DATIANSHUIJING DONGDAN WA IJI AOBU J IE CHAOYANG MEN DAYANGYIBIN HUTONG JIANBGEUI ODAMJIEEN
DAJIE HUTONG BEI DAJIE XIZONGBU HUTONG NAN XIAO JIE HUTONG
XINKAILU HUTONG
NAN DONG ZONGBU
HEYAN DAJIE
DONGDAN CHUNYU HUTONG FUJIAN HUTONG
HUALONG JIE GONG YUAN XI JIE
3 TIAO Beijing Union

Medical Hospital Jianguo
Men
Tian'an Men BEIJIGETOU
XIFENGLOU HUTONG
Dong XIAGONGFU TIAO
JIE Dongdan
CHANGPUHEYAN Oriental
Wangfujing Plaza Mall

DONG CHANG'AN JIE JIANGUO MEN NEI DAJIE
CHONGWEN MEN
ZHENGYI LU TAIJICHANG DAJIE NEI DAJIE X I B I AO B E I HU T ONG DONG BIAO BEI HUTONG
Ministry of DAHUA LU
the Police Government TAIJICHANGTOU NANBABAO HUTONG XIANYU XIANG BEIJING Ancient
Buildings TIAO ZHAN JIE Observatory
China
National Beijing SUZHOU HUTONG
Museum Hospital

Supreme DONGDAN XI JIE Beijing BEIJING ZHAN DONG JIE
People’s Court PARK Zhan

LEGATION China Travel ZHAN Beijing K UIJIACHANG
Service BEIJING Train Station HUTONG
QUARTER CHONGWEN MEN
XI DAJIE Southeast Corner
QIAN MEN DONG DAJIE
Chongwen Men Old City Wall Watchtower

CHONGWEN MEN XI HEYAN XIMI HUTONG CHONGWEN MEN WAI CHONGWEN MEN DONG DAJIE
DAJIE XIANGCHUAN H
XI DJAIEMOCHANG SHHUETNOGNOGU XI DAMOCHANG DO NG DAMOCHANG JIE CHONGWEN MEN BEIJING ZHAN NAN LUDONG HEYAN
JIE BEI YANGSHIKOU JIE
Underground
City DAQIAO JINMAO HUTONG DONG HUASHI BEI JIE
HUTONG
JIE
XI XINGLONG JIE DONG XINGLONG JIE

HQIUNTGOYNUGN C SAHOICTHI AAON G XI HUASHI DAJIE DONG HUASHI DAJIE

CAOHCUHTAONNGGHENG NAHNUGT OUANNG YUAN DONG CHASHI NA N X IAOS HI KOU J I E
BEHILUUTCOANOGYUAN HUTONG

HU T O HUTDOANXIG XUEHJIUATWOANNG WULAO
JIE HUTONG
N G SHANHU
HUTONG
KOU
Z H U S H I T IAO DONG DAJIE DONGDADI JIE Ciqikou
I N X I U T OU
J QINGHU A JIE CHONGWEN MEN WAI MAWEIMAO
DAJIE HUTONG
NAN NAN MECAO
JINYUCHI QIAOWAN XIXIAOSHI JIE DON G XIAOSHI JIE CIQIKOU DAJIE HUTONG
ZHONG JIE JIE
XI TANG JIE DONG TANG JIE BEI DONGBI JIE XINGFU
CONGDIAN XI JIE
XI YUANZI JIE JIE XINGFU XIANG PEIXI N JIE
GANGZI
TIAN TAN LU

FAHUASI JIE CHONGWEN
G U ANGMING XI JIE
TIAN TAN North Heavenly NAN GANGZI JIE WHEUNTZOHNAGNG FUGUANG
PARK Gate YINGFANGKUAN JIE

TIYUGU A N X I L U DONGSIKUAIYU NAN JIE DAJIE LU

TIYUGUAN LU GUANGMING LU

Qinian Dian

West Chinese Tian Tan
Heavenly Rose Gardens Dong Men

Gate Tian Tan East LONG TAN LU Yuandushi
Heavenly
FUKANGLI Hall of Gate TIAN TA N DONG LU Long Tan Temple
Abstinence Stadium
FUKANG NANLI Taiyuan Long
Gate ZUO'AN MEN NEI DAJIE
Tan

Long Tan Hu

Temple TIAN TAN Hu
of Heaven

Guangli BEIJING
Gate AMUSEMENT PARK

YONGDING MEN South DONG LI
Heavenly Gate

DONG JIE

YONGDING MEN DONG BINHE LU

ZUO'AN MEN XI BINHE LU

PUHUANGYU LU Puhuangyu

PU FANG LU



BEIJING & THE NORTH 127

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI

With its northern borders adjoining Inner Mongolia and the western

tip of erstwhile Manchuria, Hebei divides into a long southern plateau

and a mountainous north, dotted with fragments of the Great TIANJIN
Wall. Despite these barriers, the Manchu army flowed through SHANXI HEBEI

the Shanhaiguan Pass in 1644 to impose 250 years of foreign

rule on the Chinese. Hebei borders Shanxi to the west

and envelops the wealthy conurbations of Beijing and

Tianjin – Hebei’s former capital and a repository

of foreign concession-era architecture.

Shanxi (West of the Mountains), its northern edge protected by the Great Wall, was once

a buffer zone against the hostile Mongol and Turkic tribes. It is largely a mountainous plateau,

heavily industrialized, with the Yellow River (Huang He) flowing the length of its western

border. Leaving Beijing, most visitors first explore Chengde, with its imperial park and temple

architecture, or the celebrated Buddhist carvings at Yungang, outside Datong. Other key

sights include the magnificent Hanging Temple clinging to the cliff face, the peaceful hills

around Wutai Shan, one of China’s four sacred Buddhist mountains and the charming Ming

and Qing architecture in the ancient walled town of Pingyao.

Sights at a Glance

Towns & Cities Areas of Natural Beauty
7 Yungang Caves pp138–9
2 Beidaihe 9 Wutai Shan pp140–42
3 Shanhaiguan
4 Tianjin Historic Sites
5 Shijiazhuang e Qiao Jia Dayuan
6 Datong
0 Taiyuan Weichang
q Pingyao pp144–5
Luan He
Temples & Monasteries 207
112
1 Chengde pp128–31 Fengning
8 Hanging Temple Luanping Qinglong
w Shuanglin Si G6 Zhangjiakou
Xuanhua G45

109 Yuxian Beijing Qinhuangdao

nggan He G1 Tangshan

Shanyin 108 G4 G25
G3
Sa Laiyuan

r (Huang He) Daixian

G55 Baoding G45 Jinghai Bo Hai

Rive Xinzhou Dingzhou Cangzhou

Yellow G5 Botou

Lishi G20 Yangquan Hengshui
Fenyang Yuci Nangong
Weixian
Xingtai
G5 Key
Jiexiu Qin HeQinxian
Expressway
G55 Handan National Highway
G4 Minor road
Railroad
G45 Provincial border
Linfen Changzhi Anyang
Jincheng
G5

Yuncheng Great Wall of China

0 km 100

0 miles 100

A traditional Chinese building illuminated at night For map symbols see back flap

128 BEIJING & THE NORTH

1 Chengde

The mountain resort at Chengde (Bishu Shanzhuang) Tibetan Buddhist designs to make the
was chosen by the Kangxi emperor in 1703 as a means Mongol allies feel at home
of eluding the hot summers in the Forbidden City. Set
in a river valley surrounded by mountains, the park was Shuxiang Si Putuozongcheng Miao
strategically secure and allowed the hardy Manchu to
engage in hunting and martial sports. The rural setting
beyond the Great Wall reminded the Manchu rulers of their
homelands to the northeast. The eclectic temple design
of the surrounding Eight Outer Temples put visiting
Mongol and tribal chieftains at ease, so the emperor
could exploit their allegiances.

Northwest Gate

. Putuozongcheng Miao BISHU
Built to resemble the Potala Palace in Lhasa, the SHANZHUANG
temple is the largest of the Eight Outer Temples
and has displays of thangkas (Tibetan religious
scrolls), Tibetan religious ornaments, and two
scaled-down sandalwood pagodas.

KEY

1 The wall is over 6 miles
(10 km) long.

The Kangxi Emperor

Kangxi (1654–1722) was the second Qing emperor to reign from West Gate

Beijing, and held on to power for 61 years, the longest reign in China’s CHENGDE
CITY
history. His rule was, in comparison with other emperors, frugal,
Getting Around
practical, and conscientious. During It is possible to see the
temples and resort in a one-
his reign the empire increased day minibus tour. However,
it is quite a tough day. If time
in size and wealth, and generally allows, try a more leisurely
walk around the resort one
enjoyed peace and prosperity. day and hire a taxi for the
temples the next.
He taxed the farmers moderately

and protected the peasantry,

building up a healthy rural economy.

An outstanding militarist, he was also

a patron of the arts and sciences

inviting Jesuit scholars to the Chinese

court. He was followed by his fourth

son, Yongzheng (r.1723–35), and then

his grandson Qianlong (r.1736–95),

who idolized him so much that he

The Kangxi emperor pictured resigned as emperor after sixty

in his library years so as not to outdo him.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 129

Xumifushou Zhi Miao VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This temple was built to
impress the visiting Panchen Practical Information
Lama who came to Chengde. 150 miles (250 km) NE
Chengde on the occasion of Beijing. Bishu Shanzhuang:
of the Qianlong emperor’s Open 5:30am–6:30pm daily. &
birthday in 1780. = - Outer Temples: Open
daily (temples not all open at the
same time). &

Transport
@ £ @ 5, 7, 11, 15 from
Chengde station.

Puning Si

PUYOU SI

Xumiushou
Zhi Miao

East Gate Anyuan Miao . Puning Si
This temple combines Han Chinese designs
at the front with typical Tibetan structures
at the back. The highlight is the majestic
wooden statue of Guanyin in the main hall
(see pp130–31).

Yongyousi
Pagoda •

Puren Si

0 meters 800 Pule Si
0 yards 800 The most impressive hall in Pule Si, the Temple of
Universal Joy, is the yellow-tiled twin conical-
roofed hall which has strong echoes of the Temple
of Heaven in Beijing.

Imperial
Palaces

Main Gate

Key . Bishu Shanzhuang
Town area The southern section of the resort contains an array of simple
Road
but elegant palaces, cool shaded lakes and waterside pavilions,

best viewed from a rowing boat.

130 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Puning Si, Chengde

One of the most impressive outer temples at the Imperial
Summer Retreat at Chengde, Puning Si (Puning Temple)
was built in 1755 by the Qianlong emperor to
commemorate the defeat of Mongol rebels. The whole
temple complex is a harmonious synthesis of Chinese and
Tibetan styles of architecture. As part of a series of halls
ascending the slope of a mountain, the temple’s pinnacle
is the Mahayana Hall, in which towers one of the world’s
largest wooden statues, a vast 72-ft (22-m) high represe-
ntation of the Buddhist goddess of compassion, Guanyin.

Buddhist Symbols
Guanyin’s hands hold an array of
Buddhist symbolic instruments –
the pure sound of the bell is said
to drive away evil spirits.

. Guanyin
The huge effigy of Guanyin, also known to
Buddhists as Avalokitesvara, is fashioned from
five different types of wood. Viewing galleries
can be climbed for views above ground level.

KEY teacher, is shown perched
on the top of her head.
1 Diyu houses a macabre
display of Buddhist punishments. 6 Tibetan elements of the
buildings are the bricks, the red
2 The terrace buildings form a and white coloring, and the
three-dimensional mandala (see shape of the windows.
p540), a physical representation
of Buddhist cosmology 7 Miaoyan Shi was where the
emperor rested when visiting.
3 One of two attendant
statues 8 Defensive wall

4 Viewing gallery 9 Gatehouse
5 Amitabha Buddha, Guanyin’s

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 131

Prayer Wheels VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
In Tibetan
Buddhism, sacred Practical Information
mantras and prayers 5 miles (8 km) NE of Chengde,
are inserted into the Hebei Province. Open
decorated cylinders and 8:30am–4:30pm daily. 0 - =
activated by spinning n Chengde International Travel
the wheel clockwise. Service, (0314) 202 2205.

Transport
@6

. Mayahana Hall
Called Dacheng Ge in Chinese,

the 122-ft (37-m) high hall
symbolizes the palace of

Buddha on Mount Sumeru, the
center of the Buddhist world.

Puning Si

This illustration shows the Tibetan-
styled rear section of the temple
complex. This part uses several
terraces to emphasize differences
of height and scale, whereas
the traditional Chinese part of the
complex consists of a symmetrical
series of buildings on a single axis.

Stupa (Chorten)
These monuments represent
Buddhas’s physical presence
and traditionally held sacred
relics or even the remains of

revered lamas.





134 BEIJING & THE NORTH

history and is fortified by

a Ming-era wall. The charming

area within the walls is

segmented by hutong (historic

alleys), and serviced by a

few hotels.

Shanhaiguan promotes its

Great Wall links. The First Pass

Under Heaven in the east of

town is a formidable section of

wall attached to a huge

gatehouse. The Manchus

overcame half-hearted

resistance here and headed for

Beijing to establish the Qing

dynasty. Visitors can climb up

Beidaihe, one of northern China’s premier resorts on the ramparts, or access its

2 Beidaihe coast. The restored Guanyin tower, which displays Qing
weapons and costumes. To the

Temple, dedicated to the south is the Great Wall

186 miles (300 km) E of Beijing. ~ to Goddess of Compassion, is also Museum, worth visiting for its
Qinhuangdao, 9 miles (15 km) NE of located here. Beidaihe’s three photographs and models of the
Beidaihe, then express bus. £ @ beaches are dotted with statues wall. Also on display are tools
of revolutionary workers. that were used to build it, as

Despite its immense coastline, Middle Beach is the most well as the various weapons

China has very few good quality popular, while West Beach is that were used in its defense.

beaches, except perhaps in quieter. Nearby, Tiger Rocks There are some English

Hainan Island in the south. is a popular spot to watch the captions, and the exhibits are

Nevertheless, the coastal town sunrise. East Beach, 4 miles well displayed.

of Beidaihe, North China’s (6 km) northeast of Beidaihe, A more stirring section of the

breezy seaside retreat, is a gets covered in seaweed and wall lies 2 miles (3 km) north

pleasant enough escape from shells at low tide. of town at Jiao Shan, where

Beijing’s intolerable summer bracing climbs can be made

heat. Discovered in the 19th 3 Shanhaiguan up its steep incline – or take
century by British railway a cable car. Lao Long Tou

engineers, it soon became (Old Dragon Head) marks the

popular with foreign nationals 218 miles (350 km) E of Beijing. end of the Great Wall at the sea,

from Tianjin, and villas, summer ~ to Qinhuangdao, 8 miles (13 km) 3 miles (4 km) south of town.

holiday homes, and golf courses SW of Shanhaiguan, then express bus. This part of the wall has been

soon sprang up. These were £@ completely reconstructed and,

later taken over by Chinese despite the tour buses, is worth

Communist Party cadres, and A short hop up along the coast visiting. Visitors can head west

party leaders still gather in from Beidaihe, Shanhaiguan along the beach to explore

Beidaihe for their annual (The Pass Between the Haishen Miao (Temple of

conference in August. Mountain and the Sea) is where the Sea God).

Sadly, many of the elegant the Great Wall meets the sea.

European-style villas are now Although less affluent than E Great Wall Museum

obscured by garish modern Beidaihe, the town is steeped in Open 8am–5pm daily. &

seafront properties. During

summer (April–October),

Beidaihe’s beaches are packed

with hawkers and domestic

holiday-makers. The best way to

spend one’s time is to sample

the array of seafood, or hire a

bike or tandem from one of the

outlets on Zhonghaitan Lu for

panoramic rides along the

coast. The hilly Lianfeng-shan

Park in the west of town is

covered in cypresses and pines,

and its hilltop Sea-Viewing

Pavilion provides a good

vantage point for views of the The aptly named Lao Long Tou, where the Great Wall reaches the sea

Xumifushou Zhi Miao, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Chengde

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 135

4 Tianjin street’s west side. To the

southwest, close to the Old

50 miles (80 km) SE of Beijing. * Chinese Town, the Confucius Beautiful tiled wall at the Tianhou Temple,
10,000,000. k £ Main Train Station Temple was damaged during Tianjin
(central), Tianjin South Station (30-min the Cultural Revolution, and
drive from centre). High speed train restored in 1993. About a mile including the Astor Hotel,
from Beijing’s South Station takes 30 (0.6 km) northeast across the whose guests included China’s
mins. @ West Bus Station, Northeast River Hai is the gaunt Wang Hai last emperor, Pu Yi. The highly
Bus Station, Bus Station No. 1, CAAC Lou Cathedral (Wang Hail Lou original and hugely popular
(buses to airport), South Bus Station. Jiao Tang). Outside, a plaque in China House Museum at 72
Tanggu Harbor. n 22 Youyi Lu, Chifeng Dao is a beautiful old
(022) 2835 4860. Chinese relates the church’s French house that has been
turbulent history. It was redecorated by Zhang Lianzhi,
destroyed by a mob in a collector of Chinese porcelain.
He has used hundreds of
Hebei’s former capital, 1870, and again during thousands of pieces throughout
the building. To the south, at the
the municipality of the 1900 Boxer end of Binjiang Dao, Tianjin’s
biggest thoroughfare and
Tianjin is China’s fourth Rebellion. The 1976 shopping area, are the three
green domes of the French-built
largest city and a major Tang Shan earthquake Xi Kai Cathedral (Xi Kai Jiao
Tang), open on Sundays.
seaport. The city’s damaged it for the third
 Dabei Monastery
appeal lies in its time, and it was repaired 40 Tianwei Lu. Open daily. &

Western Concession in 1983. North of the

architecture, a legacy of cathedral, the Qing-era

its past as a foreign Dabei Monastery is

trading post since Deity, Street reached via a colorful

1858. The former Market market selling incense

powers, led by Britain sticks and Buddhist

and France, and followed by talismans. People pay their

Japan, Germany, Austro- respects to Milefo (the

Hungary, Italy, and Russia, built Laughing Buddha) at the

schools, banks, and churches. entrance and to Guanyin in her

In the north of town, the own hall. A popular attraction is

Ancient Culture Street is a the Tianjin Eye, one of the

recreation of an ancient tallest ferris wheels in the world,

Chinese street. The Tianhou standing at 394 ft (120 m). On

Temple, dedicated to the Jiefang Bei Lu are many of

Goddess of the Sea, is on the Tianjin’s colonial buildings,

Tianjin City Center North Train Station
5 km (3 miles)
1 Ancient Culture Street
2 Tianhou Temple West Train ZHO N GSHAN LU
3 Confucius Temple Station
4 Wang Hai Lou Cathedral Xizhan HEBEI DAJIE
5 Dabei Monastery Dabei
6 Jiefang Bei Lu
7 China House Museum Monastery
8 Xi Kai Cathedral
Jinshiqiao

Wang Hai Lou

Cathedral

North-east SHIZILIN DAJIE XINKAI LU
Xibeijiao BEI MA LU Bus Station Ancient Culture L I L U

XI MA LU XI MEN Confucius DONG MA LUStreet International Airport
NEI DAJIE Temple SHENG 20 km (12 miles)
Tianhou
DONG MEN Temple
NEI DAJIE

Xinanjiao Gulou HAIHE Tianjin Train
NAN MA LU Station

NANKAI SAN M A L U NAN MEN WAI DAJIE Dongnanjiao DHEPINIOBZGHNuHGLasOUiLSNUtHaGNteioHoL.en1UpJiinnCMwghulaiunsDneaAguGcHumUhaoaBnunEJgsIigBee-efai nLgu
CAAC Z

H

A Dawang-
zhuang
N

G

Z

Erweilu

0 km 1 LIUWEI
0 miles
1 BINJIANG DAO LU
TAIERJIZEHFAUNAGNGBELI ULU
Haiguangsi DAO
YINGKOU LU JIANSHE
South Bus Station NANJING LU Astor Tianjin Eye
3 km (2 miles) Anshandao Xi Kai Yingoudao LU Hotel 500m

Cathedral CAAC QUDFAUO

Key to Symbols see back flap

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

136 BEIJING & THE NORTH

5 Shijiazhuang known for its temples and

pagodas. The most renowned is

155 miles (250 km) SW of Beijing. * Dafo Si (Great Buddha Temple),
9,300,000. ~ £ @ n 26 also known as Longxing Si. Its
Donggang Lu, (0311) 858 98765. highlight is the gargantuan 69-ft
(21-m) high bronze statue of

Guanyin (the Goddess of

The capital of Hebei often suffers Compassion) that stands in the

from unfair comparisons to both Dabei Ge (Pavilion of Great

Beijing and the former provincial Mercy). Fashioned over 1,000

capital, Tianjin. An industrial years ago during the Song

town dating from the modern dynasty, the multi-armed statue

railway age, Shijiazhuang has is a riveting sight. Visitors can

just a few sights including the climb the gallery surrounding

Hebei Provincial Museum in the the statue for a closer look.

east of town, which displays West of Dafo Si, the 135 ft

musical instruments that are (41 m) Lingxiao Ta (Lingxing

over 2,300 years old, historical Pagoda) in Tianning Si is a

relics such as a jade burial suit, restored Tang dynasty structure Qiao Lou at Cangyan Shan Si (Hanging
Palace), Cangyang Shan
and an entire miniature built from wood and brick,
and completed in AD 605,
terracotta army. To the west while Kaiyuan Si’s Tang- the 167-ft (51-m) long bridge
satisfied several requirements.
along Zhongshan Lu is the dynasty pagoda rises up The gentle bow had to be level
enough to convey imperial
Martyrs’ Memorial, a just off Yanzhao Dajie, soldiers, yet high enough to
evade flood waters, while relying
park which honors two Zhengding’s main on the soft riverbanks for
support. The main arch (forming
doctors as Heroes of street. Also situated an arc rather than a semicircle) is
an effortless span of 28 stone
the Revolution. Both here is China’s sole blocks. Supported on each end
of the arch are two smaller ones
men, a Canadian surviving Tang dynasty that are designed to lighten the
structure of the bridge and allow
named Norman Bell Tower (Zhong the passage of flood waters.

Bethune and an Indian Lou). Dotted around About 50 miles (80 km)
southwest of Shijiazhuang is a
named Dwarkanath Zhengding are several surprising group of monasteries
and pagodas tucked away
Kotnis, served the temples and pagodas, among the cypresses and
sheer drops of Cangyan Shan
Communist Party in including the (Cangyan Mountains). The
Cangyan Shan Si also known as
the early 20th century. Confucian Temple, the Hanging Palace, situated
hundreds of steps up the
Chengling Ta mountainside, dates from the
Sui dynasty. One hall, the Qiao
E Hebei Provincial (Chengling Pagoda) Lou, is spectacularly slung
between two cliffs, suspended
Museum Kaiyuan Si’s Tang at Linji Si, and the on a bridge over the void. In
the valleys and on the slopes
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. pagoda, Zhengding Hua Ta (Hua Pagoda) beyond, the trail continues to
explore the dramatic landscape,
at Guanghui Si, with passing several shrines.

Environs: Most of the area’s its many intriguing motifs

main sights lie outside that represent the Buddhas,

Shijiazhuang, and are easily elephants, and whales.

accessed by train, bus, or About 25 miles (40 km)

minibus. Lying a short train or southeast of Shijiazhuang,

bus journey 9 miles (15 km) near Zhaoxian town, the 1,400-

north of town, the ancient year old Zhaozhou Bridge

walled town of Zhengding is (Zhaozhou Qiao) is a graceful

feat of engineering. Built over

ten years by the mason Li Chun

The graceful, stone Zhaozhou Bridge (Zhaozhou Qiao)  Dafo Si
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85 Open 8am–5pm daily. &

P Zhaozhou Bridge
Open daily. &

 Cangyan Shan
@ from Shijiazhuang. Open daily. &

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 137

6 Datong 8 Hanging Temple

165 miles (265 km) SW of Beijing. * 40 miles (65 km) SE of Datong. @
3,000,000. £ @ n CITS Datong, from Datong to Hunyuan, then taxi.
(0352) 510 1326. Open 9am–5pm daily. & 8

Situated near the southern Gilded Buddhist statuary, Mahavira Hall, One of China’s five sacred Daoist
flank of Inner Mongolia, Datong Huayan Si, Datong mountains, Heng Shan is also
has some splendid sights known as Beiyue (Northern
worth exploring despite the built to front the palace of the Peak). The mountain range is
abundance of coal mines and 13th son of Hongwu, the first a huge draw, its highest peak
power stations that blight the Ming emperor. Less than a mile daring climbers to scale its
surrounding landscape. south of the crossroads on Da 6,600 ft (2,000 m) slopes – a
Nan Jie is the Shanhua Si. tradition started by the first
The city was twice a dynastic Erected during the Tang era, it emperor, Qin Shi Huangdi,
capital, under the Northern Wei was subsequently destroyed by and kept alive by later rulers.
(AD 386–534), and the Liao (AD fire and rebuilt in the 12th Its main attraction, however,
907–1125), both non-Chinese. century. The main hall has five is the spectacular Xuankong Si.
The Northern Wei were fervent Buddhist statues, flanked by Supported by slender wooden
Buddhists who carved and 24 divine generals. pillars, the temple seemingly
decorated the Yungang Caves clings precariously to the
nearby, while a significant relic  Huayan Si canyon’s walls. The Northern
of the Liao era survives in the Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily. & Wei were the first to build here,
Huayan Si (Huayan Temple), but flood waters from the Heng
located in an alley off Da Xi Jie,  Shanhua Si River below regularly washed
west of the crossroads in the old Open 8:30am–5pm daily. @ 17. & the buildings away. The current
town. Completed by the Jin, the edifice dates from the Qing
temple was much restored by 7 Yungang Caves dynasty. The temple’s 40-odd
later dynasties. Raised up on a halls are hewn from natural
13-ft (4-m) terrace, Huayan Si’s See pp138–9. caves and hollows in the rock,
Great Treasure Hall (Daxiong Bao and are covered with wooden
Dian) is one of China’s largest façades. They are connected
Buddhist halls. Within the hall sit by walkways and bridges, and
five gilded and enthroned Ming- contain statues of Confucian,
era statues with attendants. The Buddhist, and Daoist gods
ceiling panels are decorated in stone, iron, and bronze.
with Sanskrit letters, flowers, and The Sanjiao Dian (Three
dragons. A short walk east of the Religions Hall) has statues of
crossroads on Da Dong Jie is Confucius, Buddha, and Laozi
Jiulong Bi (Nine Dragon Screen), all seated together.
a 148-ft (45-m) tiled spirit wall

The spectacular Hanging Temple (Xuankong Si), Heng Shan

138 BEIJING & THE NORTH

7 Yungang Caves

Carved into sandstone cliffs, the caves at Yungang are one . Exterior of Cave 6
of China’s most celebrated accomplishments of Buddhist The wooden temple façade has
art. The assembly of over 51,000 statues was started by protected the beautifully carved
the Northern Wei dynasty in AD 453 to atone for their 50-ft (16-m) stone pagoda and
persecution of Buddhism. Hellenistic, Persian, Central Asian, the rest of the sculptures within.
and Indian influences are evident in the carvings, testifying
to the many influences entering China via the Silk Road.
When the capital moved from Datong to Luoyang, in AD
494, work at Yungang all but stopped. The statues are
accompanied by English explanations. One third of the
caves are currently closed for renovations.

Cave 16 Has Cave 13 Look for the
finely featured small figure supporting
carving especially the Buddha’s arm.
Buddha’s head.

Caves 16–20 These are 0 meters 100 Caves 5 & 6
the oldest caves, built 0 yards 100 Protected by
between AD 453 and 462 wooden frontage.
by the monk Tan Hao.
Detail of Cave 10
. Main Buddha, Cave 20 Built as a pair along
The simplicity and balance with Cave 9, this cave
of the tableau shows great is also divided into two
artistic merit. This cave chambers. The interior is
would have been shielded densely decorated with
by a wooden screen. colorful bas reliefs and
statues in niches.

. Seated Buddha, Cave 5
Marking a move from the

more stylized earlier Buddhas,
this one has a more corpulent
and naturalistic air. Protected

by the wooden façade, the
cave is in good condition.

Musicians, Cave 12
This cave is decorated with devotees of music
and dance. The colorful walls provide excellent
evidence for the development and use of
musical instruments in China at the time.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 139

View of the central section of the Yungang Caves, Datong VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Interior, Cave 3 Practical Information
The Buddhas here have 10 miles (16 km) W of Datong.
rounded fleshy faces Tel (0352) 510 2265, CITS Datong.
and full lips, indicating Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily. &
that they are later = - ∑ yungang.org
creations, perhaps Sui
dynasty (AD 581–618). Transport
@ 3-1 from bus station. £ 3-2
from train station or CITS tour
booked at train station.

Pagoda in Cave 2
Nearly square in
construction, this cave
has a carved square
pagoda linking ceiling
and floor. The statues in
the cave have suffered a
little due to exposure to

the weather.

Artistic Influences, Cave 18 The bared shoulder The realistic faces
was replaced by the more of these arhats show
The colossal Buddha recalls the style of Gandhara Chinese robe and girdle the personal input by
(see p471). This Buddhist stronghold and meeting (see Cave 5) the artists
point for many of the Silk Roads sought to recreate the
solemnity, dignity, and aweinspiring nature of Buddha.
A more realistic style can be seen in the five smaller arhats
on each side and the crown worn by the Bodhisattva.

Statue has webbed
fingers one of the
marks of Buddha

The exterior of Cave 18 with
the colossal Buddha

140 BEIJING & THE NORTH

9 Wutai Shan

The monastic village of Taihuai, nestling in the valley Luohou Si
ringed by Wutai Shan’s five mountain peaks (or terraces), Inside this temple is a wooden lotus
has the largest concentration of temples as well as most flower decorated with eight wooden
of Wutai Shan’s hotels and restaurants. Wutai Shan was petals that, when rotated, open to
the site of over 300 temples during the Qing dynasty, reveal carved Buddhist figures.
but many were destroyed. Tsongkhapa, the founder of
the Buddhist Yellow Hat Sect (which has the Dalai Lama
as its head), lived here and the mountains and its shrines
are revered by Lamaist Buddhists. In winter, the roads
are often closed due to snow. Late spring and summer is
the best time to visit, but also the most crowded.

. Tayuan Si
This temple is dominated by its
distinctive Ming Dynasty and
Tibetan-styled Great White Dagoba
(Da Bai Ta), which rises to a height of
190 ft (50 m). The dagoba is topped
with a bronze cap with bells.

KEY

1 Ming Qing Jie
2 Pu Hua Si
3 Shu Xiang Si
4 Wan Fo Dong
5 San Ta Si
6 Shou Ning Si is a little bit off
the beaten track in the hills.
7 Guang Hua Si
8 Jin Jie Si
9 Shang Cai Dong sits at the foot
of the hills in view of the cable car
to the north.

Taihuai
West of the Qingshui River, the village is
thronging with pilgrims, monks, and lamas.
Visitors come for its Buddhist temples and to

shop for religious talismans.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 141

. Xian Tong Si VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The highlight of this,
the largest temple on Practical Information
Wutai Shan, is the 149 miles (240 km) N of Taiyuan.
Bronze Hall. Made n (0350) 722 7350. Open daily.
entirely from metal, & 8 by minibuses, taxis, or
it is decorated with through tourist office. = -
thousands of small
Buddhist figures. Transport
~ to Taiyuan, then bus to Taihuai.
@ from Datong or Taihuai. £
from Beijing to Shahe then bus.

. Pusa Ding
To reach Pusa Ding (Bodhisattva Summit), a
temple complex dating from the Ming and
Qing dynasties, there is a climb of 108 steps.
A significant number – it is the number of
beads on a Buddhist rosary.

0 meters 100 Qi Fo Si
0 yards 100 This temple is not visited as much as the
other more famous temples and as such will
Key be a quieter spot to take in the scenery. It also
Built-up area has a white stone pagoda.
Road
The Cult of ManjusrI

Known as Wenshu in China, Manjusri is the Buddhist
bodhisattva of Wisdom and the patron deity of Wutai

Shan. A disciple of Sakyamuni (Buddha), Manjusri is
often portrayed riding a lion or holding a sword –
for cleaving both ignorance and suffering. Many
of Wutai Shan’s temples and halls are dedicated
to Wenshu and the deity’s association with the
mountain dates as far back as the first century
AD, when a visiting Indian monk had a vision
of the bodhisattva. Many more sightings
have been recorded since.

Manjusri or Wenshu, patron deity of Wutai Shan

142 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Exploring Wutai Shan decorated and designed Puji
Pagoda, and the Guanyin Hall,
Wutai shan was originally worshiped by followers of the Dao among other structures.
(Daoists) pursuing the secrets of immortality, before attracting
devotees of Buddha who built many temples in his name. If Two more temples within
visitors explore around Taihuai they will find many temples easy reach of Taihuai include the
scattered among the peaks and in more distant parts of the Ming dynasty Bishan Si, which
region. Most can be reached without much difficulty, with a contains some intriguing
chairlift to some parts, and the effort rewards the adventurous Buddhist sculptures, and
with the chance to admire some of China’s oldest buildings. Zhenhai Si.

The thickly wooded slopes of Wutai Shan Considerably farther away is
the remote Nanchan Si, about
 Wutai Shan’s Temples 2 miles (3 km) south of Taihuai, 44 miles (70 km) south of Taihuai
The first temples appeared on is one of the largest temples on on the road to Taiyuan, which
Wutai Shan during the Eastern Wutai Shan, most notable for its contains one of China’s oldest
Han Dynasty. The five peaks of 18 superbly crafted arhat effigies. surviving wooden halls (782 AD).
Wutai Shan are each topped Three miles (5 km) southwest of The main hall has somehow
with a temple, but they are hard Taihuai, immediately above avoided destruction – a miracle
to reach and tend to attract only Nanshan Si and part of the same considering the many anti-
devout pilgrims. Several temples temple complex, is Youguo Si. Buddhist purges during China’s
can be visited either by hiking, Longquan Si (Dragon Spring history. Despite much restoration
by bus, or by minibus tour from Temple), at the top of 108 steps work, the hall’s original Tang-
Taihuai (including those through through a marvelous marble dynasty design, a rarity in
CITS), although other trips, archway, features the Hall of Chinese temple hall architecture,
such as to Nanchan Si, involve Heavenly Kings (with an effigy is preserved. Foguang Si
longer expeditions. of Milefo – the future Buddha, (Buddha’s Light Temple), about
also known in this chubby 25 miles (40 km) south of Taihuai,
With lovely views over the incarnation as the Laughing also features a Tang dynasty hall
valley, Nanshan Si (South Buddha), the attractively dating to the 9th century. The
Mountain Temple), around hall is especially notable for its
fine dougong (see p41) bracket
work, Tang and Song dynasty
wall paintings, and collection of
Ming dynasty arhats.

The elaborately carved archway
at Longquan Si

Wutai Shan Temples

Northern Peak

Central Peak

Western Peak Eastern
Jinge Si Peak

Longquan Si Pailuo Ping 0 km 4
0 miles 2

Zhenhai Si Nanshan Si Key
Built-up area
Southern Peak Temple
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85 Peak
Path

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 143

 Chongshan Si
Open 8am–4:30pm daily. &

E Shanxi Provincial Museum
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.

The Buddhist Chongshan Si, Taiyuan Environs:
The bustling Jinci Si, 15 miles
0 Taiyuan statues. The multi-armed and (25 km) southwest of town at
the base of Xuanwang Shan
multi-eyed goddess stands over (Xuanwang Mountain), dates
to the Northern Wei, although
254 miles (408 km) SW of Beijing. 26 ft (8 m), her arms fanned out much of its architecture is from
*1,900,000. ~ £ @ n CITS 38 behind her. Also displayed in the Song period. The main
Pingyang Lu, (0351) 821 1109. the temple are sutras (Buddhist entrance leads straight to
scriptures) and scrolls from the the Ming-era Mirror Terrace,
originally used as a theatrical
Song, Yuan, and Ming eras. In stage. To the west, a canal runs
through the temple complex,
A heavily industrialized city, the east of town, the Twin crossed by a bridge that leads
to a terrace supporting four
Taiyuan lies on the banks of the Pagoda Temple (Shuangta Si) fierce iron statues. Lying beyond
is the impressively carved Hall
Fen River at the heart of Shanxi was built on imperial instruction of the Sacred Mother (Shengmu
Dian), one of China’s oldest
and makes a convenient base during the late Ming era. Also surviving wooden buildings.
Inside the hall, a group of
for trips to Pingyao (see p144) known as Yongzuo Temple, its ceramic Song era figures
waits on a central figure of
and Wutai Shan (see pp140–42). 13-story, 164-ft (50-m) high the Sacred Mother.

Between the years 471–221 pagodas have come to About 25 miles (40 km)
southwest of Taiyuan, the
BC Taiyuan was the symbolize Taiyuan. Formerly Tianlong Shan Grottoes in the
Tianlong Mountains constitute a
capital of the Zhao housed in Chunyang small, but significant, collection
of Buddhist cave art. A total of
Kingdom, and Temple, the Shanxi 21 caves dot the eastern and
western sides of the mountain,
became a flourishing Provincial Museum with worn and damaged
statues dating from the Eastern
center of Buddhism is now located in a Wei to the Tang dynasties. The
best-preserved specimen is
by the 6th century modern, purpose- the large seated Buddha in
Cave No. 9.
AD. Because of its built facility on the
 Jinci Si
strategic position, banks of the River Open 8am–5pm daily. &

bordering the Fen. Its collections T Tianlong Shan Grottoes
Open 9am–6pm daily. &
hostile nomadic are arranged over

tribes to the north, Guardian deity, four floors and

the city underwent Jinci Temple are beautifully

heavy fortification presented, although

during the Tang dynasty. there are few explanations of

However, fearing its ambitions, the items in English. Displays

the Song ruler had it torched include relics, bronzes, Chinese

to the ground. The city was currency, statuary, and a

rebuilt a few years later. collection of Buddhist sutras.

The Buddhist monastery

Chongshan Si is hidden down

an alleyway northeast of Wuyi

(May 1) Square. A temple has

existed here since the 7th

century, although the current

building dates from the 14th

century. A fire reduced much of

the temple to ashes in 1864,

but considerable rebuilding has

taken place. The Hall of Great

Compassion (Dabei Dian)

houses the striking Qianshou

Guanyin (Thousand-Armed

Goddess of Compassion), the

central figure in the trinity of The temple spring at Jinci Si, Taiyuan

144 BEIJING & THE NORTH

q Pingyao . Rishenchang
This extensive museum of early
Surrounded by one of China’s few intact Ming city walls,
Pingyao’s streets are lined with a wealth of traditional banking is the site of China’s first
Chinese buildings, including courtyard houses, temples,
and more than 3,000 historic shops. Pingyao’s treasure draft bank, founded in 1824.
trove of Ming and Qing architecture is a legacy of the
town’s affluent days as a banking center, which ceased West Gate,
when the Qing dynasty defaulted on loans and abdicated, train station
leaving the banks empty. The transferral of the country’s
finances to Shanghai and Hong Kong turned the city into XIDAJIE
a backwater, saving it from development and, ultimately,
preserving its character.

ZHENGFUJIE

County Magistrate’s Residence NAN DAJIE
Pingyao’s justice department during the Ming
and Qing dynasties, these offices represented the
secular world while the Daoist temples, mirroring
the County Yamen on the other side of Nan Dajie,
represented the spiritual realm.

Southeast Pingyao South Gate
(Ying Xun Men)
The most notable part of the car-free town,
the southeast corner and center of Pingyao

has the largest concentration of sights,
museums, and heritage architecture.

Furniture Museum
As well as this rickshaw,
there are rooms in this
typical Qing dynasty
compound that are
furnished as bedrooms,
kitchens, and opium dens.

. City Walls 0 meters 30
The 39-ft (12-m) high, crenellated 0 yards 30
enclosure dating from 1370 is said
to resemble the outline of a tortoise.
Its head lies at the south gate, its
four feet at the east and west gates,
and its tail at the north gate.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 145

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST w Shuanglin Si

Practical Information 4 miles (6 km) SW of Pingyao.
62 miles (100 km) S of Taiyuan. * Open 8:30am–6:30pm daily (until
40,000. access at West Gate. Open 5pm in winter). &
daily. & (joint ticket for admission
to all the town’s attractions). This temple has a long history,
dating back 1,500 years to
Transport the Northern Wei, which had its
£ @ City Walls: access at capital at Datong. The current
west gate temple was built during the
Ming and Qing dynasties and
. Bell Tower contains over 2,000 Buddhist
Rising above Nan Dajie, the Bell statues, some from the Song
dynasty. The effigies are
Tower is a charming structure arranged in ten halls around
three courtyards. The expertly
decorated with ornamented eaves. fashioned figures’ expressions
vary from the sublime through
North Gate The Tianjixiang the comic to the sinister. The
(Gonji Men) Museum has a lifelike luohan in the second
hall each reveal an individual
small collection of These three adjoining persona and the bodhisattvas
local artifacts. Daoist temples were in the third hall are well worth
seeking out.
DONG DAJIE last rebuilt in 1859, after
burning down during a

temple fair.

CHENGHUANGMIAOJIE Upper East Classic courtyard at the extensive Qiao Jia
Gate Dayuan
Watchtowers
punctuate the length e Qiao Jia Dayuan
of the wall every
164 ft (50 m). 12 miles (20 km) N of Pingyao. @
between Taiyuan and Pingyao can
drop you off. from Pingyao. Open
8am–5:30pm daily. &

Kuixing Tower This magnificent courtyard
This extravagant and unusually house was the setting for
designed eight-sided pavilion rises director Zhang Yimou’s classic
above the battlements. It is named 1991 film Raise the Red Lantern,
after a star in the 28 constellations of starring Gong Li. Dating from
the 18th century, the vast
the Chinese zodiac. complex, comprising 313
rooms, is an exquisite exercise
in architectural balance, its
linked courtyards pervaded
by a sense of equilibrium.
Enclosed by a 33-ft (10-m)
high, fortified wall, the house
was built by Qiao Guifa, a
merchant who made his
fortune in tofu and tea.



BEIJING & THE NORTH 147

SHANDONG & HENAN

The swathe of territory comprising Shandong and Henan, irrigated by

the final sweep of the Yellow River (Huang He), sustained some

of China’s earliest settled societies. The Shandong Chinese are

proud of their many treasures, which include sages Confucius SHANDONG
and Mencius, the Yellow River, and Tai Shan, China’s holiest

Daoist peak, and the former German colony of Qingdao, HENAN
with its Bavarian cobbled streets and Teutonic architecture.

(Qingdao may be testament to humiliating 19th-century

foreign ambitions, but it was German expertise that helped brew

China’s famous Tsingtao beer.) The Yellow River enters Shandong (East of the Mountains)

from the west, after slicing Henan (South of the River) into two uneven chunks. Henan’s

historic sights cluster around the river in the province’s north, in an area that was the cradle

of Chinese civilization as early as 6000 BC. The ancient capitals of Anyang, Kaifeng, and

Luoyang are located here. The impressive Longmen Caves, with their Buddhist carvings,

lie outside Luoyang. Other sights include the sacred Daoist mountain of Song Shan, home

to the Shaolin Temple and its band of warrior monks, and the Northern Song capital of

Kaifeng, with its fine Buddhist architecture and historic Judaic links.

Sights at a Glance

Towns & Cities Areas of Natural Beauty

1 Jinan 2 Tai Shan pp150–51
3 Qufu e Song Shan & Shaolin Temple
4 Qingdao
5 Yantai Buddhist Sites
6 Weihai w Longmen Caves pp160–61
8 Kaifeng
9 Anyang Bo Hai Bohai Haixia
0 Zhengzhou
q Luoyang Dongying Longkou

Historic Sites Dezhou He
Tuhai Binzhou
7 Penglai G4 Laiyang G18
r Gongyi G45
r Zibo Rushan
G15
G15LinqingBoshanWeifang
Liaocheng
G18 G22
G3
G35HebiRive G2 Juxian
Rizhao
JiaozuoG55 Yellow Jining Pingyi
Sanmenxia G30
Xinxiang Heze

Luo He Shangqiu Zaozhuang
Xuchang
Songxian G30

G40 Pingdingshan Zhoukou
Luohe
G36

Xixia Nanyang Fuyang

G40 Xincai 0 km 100

Tanghe
G45 0 miles 100
G4 Huangchuan

G70 G40
G55
Xinyang

Key

Yichang Expressway
National Highway
Wuhan Minor road
Railroad
Provincial border

Longmen Caves – an important and busy tourist attraction For additional map symbols see back flap

148 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Jinan’s modern skyline, with the Yellow River in the distance

1 Jinan Buddhist carvings, Neolithic 2 Tai Shan
pottery fragments (some from
216 miles (350 km) S of Beijing. * Long Shan nearby), and dino- See pp150–51.
5,900,000. ~ £ @ n (0531) 8267 saur fossils. Also on display is
6211. China’s oldest existing book 3 Qufu
made from strips of bamboo.

South of the Yellow River as it Environs 112 miles (180 km) S of Jinan. *
makes its final thrust for the sea, Near Liubu village, 21 miles (33 160,000. £ @ from Jinan. n CITS
Shandong’s capital is visited km) southeast of Jinan, the Si 36 Hongdao Lu, (0537) 449 149.
primarily by travelers en route to Men Pagoda (Four Gate Pagoda)
the popular sights of Tai Shan, is known for its antiquity and As the birthplace of China’s
Qingdao, and Qufu. It was unusual design. This squat, one- most revered sage, Qufu
known for its natural springs, story stone structure with four occupies a hallowed place in
many of which have since dried doors is topped by a steeple, the minds of not only the
up. The most famous of these, and would have housed the Chinese, but also the legions of
the Black Tiger Spring, still flows remains of an important monk. Japanese and Koreans who
somewhat erratically out of The pagoda, erected in AD 611, come here on pilgrimage. In
tiger-headed spouts. is the oldest of its kind in China September the town comes
alive during the annual festival
In the north of town, the park } Thousand Buddha Mountain that celebrates Confucius’s
surrounding Daming Hu (Big 18 Jing Shiyi Lu, off Qianfoshan Lu. birthday. Although the sage
Brilliant Lake) is filled with Open 5am–9pm daily. & lived in relative obscurity, his
ponds, gardens, and temples, descendents dwelt in the grand
and is a good place for a stroll. E Shandong Provincial Museum Confucius Mansion (Kong Fu)
To the southwest is the Li 14 Jingshiyi Lu. Open 9am–5pm Tue– in the heart of town. Wielding
Qingzhao Memorial Hall, which Sun. ∑ sdmuseum.com/english
commemorates one of China’s
most famous female poets who Covered corridor to the Confucius Temple at Qufu
lived in the 12th century. There
is a statue of her as well as
portraits and extracts from her
writings.

In the southeast of the city,
the slopes of Thousand Buddha
Mountain (Qianfo Shan) are
dotted with Buddhist statues.
Several temples are situated on
the summit, which is over an
hour’s climb up the steps.
A cable car service is available.
The earliest statuary dates from
the 6th century, with many
additions compensating for
those broken by Red Guards.
A short walk north of the moun-
tain is the Shandong Provincial
Museum. Its exhibits include

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85