DK Eyewitness Travel Guide_ China

A PORTRAIT OF CHINA 49

Festival Food A type of mooncake Traditional papercut of
Rice pyramids or zongzi an astrological chart
Each festival has its special food:
jiaozi (boiled dumplings) are Chinese Astrology
usually eaten for New Year
especially in the North of China; Each year is associated with one
yuanxiao (glutinous rice balls) of twelve animal signs, which
feature during the Lantern repeat in a cycle. At New Year
Festival and can be made with a people talk of welcoming, for
sweet or savory filling; and zongzi example, the “Year of the Dog.”
(sticky rice pyramids wrapped in In Chinese astrology, people
bamboo leaves) are served at the born under a specific animal
Dragon Boat Festival. The Mid- sign are supposed to have
Autumn Festival, which falls on some of the characteristics
a full moon, brings mooncakes. attributed to the animal.
Made to a thousand recipes with
savory or sweet fillings, the cake Horse 2014, symbol of
symbolizes the moon. freedom.

Spectacular Fireworks Sheep 2015, signifying peace
and creativity.
New Year would not be complete
without fireworks. Some major cities Monkey 2016, associated
put on impressive all-night displays. with fun and genius, as in the
Fireworks were originally intended to story of the Monkey King.
ward off evil spirits, or perhaps wake
up the dragon who would create rain Rooster 2017 has 5 virtues:
in the coming year and guarantee a refinement, courage,
good harvest. assertiveness, benevolence,
and reliability.
Colorful lanterns
Coinciding with the full moon, the Dog 2018, considered lucky in
Lantern Festival marks the end of the Chinese mythology.
two-week New Year period. Lanterns may
bear auspicious characters or be in Pig 2019, associated with
fertility and virility.
animal shapes.
Rat 2020, welcomed as a
Tangerines Duilian clever protector and bringer
A New Year symbol of luck, These red scrolls at either side of of wealth.
tangerines are put on display at the doorway bear Spring
home – along with fresh flowers. Couplets in classical Chinese Ox 2021, Laozi, the Daoist
The word for “tangerine” sounds expressing good wishes for the philosopher, is often shown
like “luck” in Chinese while family in the coming year. sitting on an ox.
flowers signify a new beginning.
Tiger 2022, in China he is
deemed the king of the
animals.

Rabbit 2023, associated with
longevity and believed to live
in the moon.

Dragon 2024, symbol of
China, the emperor, and the
positive Yang element (see
pp38–9).

Snake 2025, an ancient
ancestor, Fuxi, was thought to
be half-human and half-snake.

50 INTRODUCING CHINA

CHINA THROUGH THE YEAR

The traditional Chinese festivals are tied to (PRC), and outlying areas such as Inner
the lunar calendar, which has 29.5 days a Mongolia have their own distinctive festivals.
month, and this means the solar dates Some celebrations of foreign origin such as
change every year. Festivals associated with Christmas are also observed. Before the
Communism – National Day and Labor Day, important New Year Festival, there are weeks
for example – are usually fixed to the Western of preparation. Most offices and shops are
calendar. Religious festivals, kept alive in closed for three days, but many tend to take
Hong Kong, Tibet, and other areas of the a week-long break at this time. As most
Chinese-speaking world, are gradually making Chinese return to their family home, travel
a comeback in the People’s Republic of China is very difficult.

Colorful parade celebrating Chinese New Year festival later in the month, and
the butter lamp festival, also
Spring (Feb–Apr) 2nd Lunar Month known as the lantern festival.
Tibetan New Year The Tibetan Hong Kong Arts Festival (Feb/
This is the time of year New Year is marked by the Mar) A major international arts
when Chinese people try eating of “barley crumb” food festival as well as the premier
to settle old debts and make and an exchange of Tashi arts event in Hong Kong.
time to meet with friends and Delek blessings. It is followed A mix of overseas and local
family members. The arrival of by Monlam, the great prayer artists provide music, theater,
peach blossom is a signal of dance, popular entertainment,
rejuvenation and the Spring film and exhibition programs
Festival celebrates the start of over three or four weeks.
the ancient cycle of plowing International Women’s
and sowing. Day (Mar 8) Women have a
half or even a whole day’s
1st Lunar Month A highly elaborate Tibetan holiday, while men continue
Spring Festival (Chun Jie) butter sculpture to work.
The main festival – Chinese New
Year (see pp48–9). Gifts and red 3rd Lunar Month
envelopes filled with money are Tree-planting Day (Apr 1)
exchanged and new shoes and Promoted since the late
clothes worn. 1970s by the reformist
Lantern Festival (Feb–Mar) government, but not an
Coinciding with a full moon, this official holiday, this is part of
festival marks the end of the a greening campaign.
fifteen-day New Year period. Weifang International Kite
A great many lanterns bearing Festival (Apr) Flying kites is part
auspicious characters or in animal of Qingming celebrations. Over
shapes can be seen. Yuanxiao 1,000 contestants compete at
(sticky rice balls) are eaten. this festival in Shandong.
Water Sprinkling Festival
(mid-Apr) Exclusive to the
Dai people (Xishuangbanna,
Yunnan, see p389). Marks the
Dai lunar New Year, and involves
blessing others by sprinkling or
splashing them with water,
which represents the quelling
of the flames of a mythical
tyrant demon.
Qing Ming Festival (Apr)
Festival for sweeping the graves
and honoring the dead. Food is
left on the grave and families
often take a picnic with them.
Hainan Coconut Festival (Apr)
Set up in 1992, and a showcase
for the local coconut harvest.

CHINA THROUGH THE YEAR 51

known as the Festival of the
Ten Thousand Buddhas.
Buddhists pray for the washing
away of sin and the attainment
of wisdom and peace.
“Meet in Beijing” Festival
(May) Music and arts festival,
including opera, dance, instru-
mental and vocal concerts.

Qing Ming Festival, sweeping or tending the ancestors’graves 5th Lunar Month
Children’s Day (Jun 1)
Third Moon Fair (Apr) Dali area. many people go on trips Cinemas and other places of
This festival is exclusive to the around the country to see entertainment are free to
Buddhist Bai minority in Yunnan. family and friends. children, who are also
Events include fairs, horse- showered with presents.
racing, singing, and dancing. 4th Lunar Month Dragon Boat Festival (or
Tin Hau Festival (Apr–May) International Labor Day (May 1) Fifth Moon Festival) (Jun)
Celebrated in Hong Kong and A week-long holiday around commemorates the patriotic
coastal areas such as Fujian, May Day during which travel poet Qu Yuan who drowned
the birthday of the Heavenly can be difficult. himself. Originally religious but
Queen or Mazu (see p155), Youth Day (May 4) now just fun. Teams of rowers
who looks after those at sea, Commemorates the student compete in long, decorated
is important for fishermen movements of 1919, which boats. Rice cakes (zongzi) are
and sailors. sparked the evolution of eaten. Hong Kong has several
modern China. very colorful events, one with
Summer (May–Jul) Buddha’s Birthday (April or May) international teams.
An important religious festival in Shanghai International
Once the summer arrives, Tibet but not officially observed Film Festival (Jun) First held
bringing warmer weather, in the PRC, though Buddhists in October 1993, this is the
festivals are often held may now do so privately. The only accredited international
outdoors. May sees the start festival has a higher profile in film festival in mainland China,
of the traveling season as Hong Kong, where it is also and it shows a range of new
films from around the world.
The main film prize is the
Golden Goblet, and a prize is
also awarded for young Asian
movie talent.

Dragon Boat Festival – colorful, lively, and exciting to watch

52 INTRODUCING CHINA

Qingdao International
Beer Festival (Aug) Held in the
eastern port city of Qingdao,
Shandong, home of Tsingtao
Beer, brewed from the spring
waters of nearby Lao Shan
(see p152).

8th Lunar Month

Teachers’ Day (Sep 1) Not

an established holiday, but it

began in the 1980s in response

to the anti-intellectualism of

the Cultural Revolution.

Mid Autumn Festival or Zhong

Qiu (Sep) Harvest or moon

festival when moon cakes are

eaten throughout the country

Nadaam Fair, Mongolian sports festival and fair and family reunions take place

(see p49).

6th Lunar Month wear their traditional dress. Shaolin International

Founding of Chinese It’s also a trading fair. Nakchu Martial Arts Festival (Sep)

Communist Party (Jul 1) A day Horse Race Annual event since

to mark the event that took Festival (Tibet) 1991 in the city of

place in 1921 in Shanghai. (Aug) The most Zhengzhou.

important folk Confucius’

festival in Tibet. This Birthday (Sep 28)

Autumn (Aug–Oct) takes place in Nakchu. Gradually regaining
Over a thousand popularity in the

The weather may still be warm herdsmen then PRC, after

in the sub-tropical south, but in compete in the vilification of the

the high uplands and central traditional Tibetan sage (born in

areas it is cooling down. As the sports of archery horse- Mid-Autumn festival 551BC) under the
leaves turn golden, this is a racing, and general Communist regime.
popular time of the year to dragon The day is
horsemanship.

travel to festivals. Zhongyuan celebrated at the Confucian

(Hungry Ghost Festival) Similar temples in Qufu, Beijing

7th Lunar Month to Halloween, a traditional and elsewhere.

Army day (Aug 1) Marks the first festival combining elements of International Fashion

Communist uprising against ancestor worship and Buddhism, Festival (mid-Sep) Dalian. Two

the Nationalists in 1927. The suppressed under Communism. weeks of fashion shows by

theme is unity between the Considered an inauspicious time Asian designers, with a

army and the people. to move house or marry. spectacular opening parade.

Lovers’ festival (Aug) A

romantic day, this celebrates

the story of the earthly

cowherd and celestial weaving

girl who were separated by the

gods but who are annually

reunited in the heavens by a

bridge of magpies on the

seventh day of the seventh

moon. It is also known as Seven

Sisters Festival.

Shoton (Yoghurt festival)

(Aug/Sep) Tibetan festival of

opera. Takes its name from the

yoghurt served by pilgrims to

the monks.

Nadaam Fair (Aug) (Inner

Mongolia) Held in Hohhot,

Bayanbulak and elsewhere,

Inner Mongolia. Horse-racing,

wrestling and archery. Women Qingdao International Beer Festival dancers

CHINA THROUGH THE YEAR 53

National day, well-drilled troops on the march

9th Lunar Month over but everyone enjoys the minute reprieve to sacrifice a
National Day (Oct 1) A great lengthy preparations for the goat instead of his son. Animals
rush of holiday-making takes Chinese New Year at home. are slaughtered for a feast, with
place during this week-long singing and dancing.
break – one of China’s two 10th Lunar Month New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
so-called Golden Week holidays, Zhuang Song Festival (Nov) Overshadowed by the massive
along with Chinese New Year. The Zhuang minority in Guangxi Chinese New Year celebrations
Parades – including a high- have their own folk-song and that take place later in January
profile military show of strength dance tradition. An International or February, but it is still a
in Tian’an Men Square – Folk Song and Arts Festival is recognized public holiday.
celebrate the founding of the held in Nanning.
PRC by Mao Zedong in 1949. Public Holidays
Double-ninth (Chongyang) 11th Lunar Month
Festival (Oct) Double nine Winter Solstice Chinese New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
signifies double yang (in the yin- astronomers identified this
yang duality), connected with day as early as the Han period. Chinese New Year or Spring
male assertiveness and strength. Historically, it has been an Festival (Jan/Feb)
Traditionally, people do symbolic important festival, though less
things like climb to high places, so now. In the north, people Qing Ming Festival (Apr)
carry a sprig of dogwood, and often eat dumpling soup or
drink chrysanthemum wine to dumplings on this day to keep International Labor
ward off evil spirits at this festival, them warm. In the south, people Day (May 1–3)
but it’s not observed everywhere. may eat red-bean and sticky
Hairy Crab Season (Oct–early rice to drive away evil spirits. Dragon Boat Festival (May)
Dec) Not strictly a festival, this is a Christmas Day (Dec 25)
two-month celebration of China’s Although only a tiny number of National Day (Oct)
favorite winter delicacy, served the population is Christian, the
in packed restaurants across the commercial side of this Weekend Shifting
country but especially popular celebration has taken off with
in Shanghai and eastern China. Christmas trees and Shengdan The weekends before and
Laoren, a Chinese version of after the Spring Festival and
Winter (Nov–Jan) Father Christmas, seen as a October holidays are often
popular image. It’s a public shifted from year to year
This season brings a drop holiday in Hong Kong. toward the 3-day block to
in temperatures and relief allow for a continuous run of
from the humidity in the 12th Lunar Month 7 days’ holiday. To add to the
south, while central and Corban Festival (Dec/Jan) confusion, the exact days of
northern regions usually Celebrated in Xinjiang, Ningxia, the holiday are usually not
experience bitter winters. and among Hui people across finalized until shortly before-
The main traveling season is China, this is a Muslim festival hand. You may wish to avoid
remembering Abraham’s last- traveling during this period
because many facilities
are closed. Try to confirm
the exact dates with a travel
agent beforehand.

54 INTRODUCING CHINA

The Climate of China

With many different climate zones across its vast landmass,
China experiences all extremes of weather ranging from
the hot, wet summers and warm winters of the sub-
tropical southwestern coast and high temperatures of
the Turpan Depression to the cool summers and long,
dry winters of its mountainous regions. Rainfall is sparse
in the arid northern uplands and the near-Siberian
northeast but plentiful in the humid south and east.

URUMQI The top of Hua Shan, Shaanxi
Ürümqi
28/82
°C

16/61
14/57
10/50

2/36 -22/-8
0 -1/30 -11/12

79 7 6

hrs hrs hrs hrs

38 18 43 15
mm mm mm mm

month Apr Jul Oct Jan

Key Lhasa Lanzhou
Chengdu
Hot wet summer,
warm dry winter

Warm summer, cool winter

Hot wet summer,
cool dry winter

Hot wet summer,
cool misty winter

Cool dry summer, cold
windy winter

Hot wet summer,
cold dry winter

Warm summer, cold dry winter

Hot dry summer, long cold
dry and windy winter

Kunming

CHENGDU

LHASA 30/86

°C 22/72 20/72 21/69 KUNMING

°C 23/73 15/58
7/45
17/63 13/56 °C 24/75 24/86
20/68
16/61

14/57 0 17/63 15/59
7/45 -10/14
12/54
1/34 1/34 6 2 10 6

0 hrs hrs hrs hrs 9/48 2/36

-10/14

6 2 10 6 0

hrs hrs hrs hrs 5 122 13 0
mm mm mm mm
5 122 13 0 9557
mm mm mm mm month Apr Jul Oct Jan hrs hrs hrs hrs

month Apr Jul Oct Jan 27 205 89 12
mm mm mm mm

month Apr Jul Oct Jan

CHINA THROUGH THE YEAR 55

Average monthly XI’AN
maximum
32/90 HARBIN
temperature °C 20/68 22/72 20/68
28/82
Average monthly
minimum 9/48 10/50 °C
0 5/41 18/64
temperature
Freezing point -4/25 13/55 11/52

Average daily hours of 6744 0 -1/30 -1/30 -12/10
sunshine hrs hrs hrs hrs -25/-13

Average monthly 50 93 66 7 8976
rainfall mm mm mm mm hrs hrs hrs hrs

month Apr Jul Oct Jan 15 137 19 2
mm mm mm mm

month Apr Jul Oct Jan

Harbin

BEIJING

32/90

°C 23/73 23/73

19/66 14/57
10/50 8/46

Beijing 1/34
0
Dalian
Datong
Tianjin

Yellow 8787
Sea hrs hrs hrs hrs

17 243 16 4
mm mm mm mm

month Apr Jul Oct Jan

Xi’an Nanjing Shanghai
Wuhan Hangzhou Ningbo

SHANGHAI

Chongqing Nanchang 32/90
Guiyang Changsha
°C 23/73 23/73

East China 19/66 14/57
Sea 10/50 8/46

1/34
0

Tropic of Cancer 4875
hrs hrs hrs hrs
Guangzhou Hong
Nanning Kong 137 381 114 33
mm mm mm mm
HONG KONG
month Apr Jul Oct Jan

South China 31/88 27/81
Sea 23/73
24/75 26/79
°C 19/66
18/64

13/55 0 km 250

0 miles 250

0

4875
hrs hrs hrs hrs

137 381 114 33
mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan



INTRODUCING CHINA 57

THE HISTORY
OF CHINA

China boasts one of the longest single unified civilizations in the world.
Its history is characterized by dramatic shifts in power between rival factions,
periods of peace and prosperity when foreign ideas were assimilated and
absorbed, the disintegration of empire through corruption and political
subterfuge, and the cyclical rise of ambitious leaders to found each new empire.

First Settlers offerings. Inscriptions on oracle bones
provide the first evidence of writing,
From around 8000 BC, settlements dating from around 1300 BC.
of populations based on a primitive
agricultural economy began to emerge In 1066 BC, the Zhou seized power,
in the eastern coastal regions and along establishing their western capital at
the rich river deltas of the Huang He present-day Xi’an. The Western Zhou
(Yellow River), the Yangzi, and the Wei. initially sustained many of the
These civilizations focused on hunting, traditions of the Shang, but later
gathering, and fishing, and the cultivation reorganized the political system, and
of millet in the north and rice in the south. replaced the use of oracle bones with
Each civilization is notable for its own inscriptions on bronze and, later, writing
distinct style of pottery, such as the bold on silk and strips of bamboo.
earthenware of the Yangshao (5000–
3000 BC) and the black ceramics of the The Eastern Zhou (770–221 BC) is
Longshan (3000–1700 BC). divided into the Spring and Autumn period
(named for the annals written by Confucius,
Bronze Age China and the First 770–475 BC) and the Warring States period
Kingdoms (475–221 BC). The Eastern Zhou period saw
the capital moved to Luoyi (now Luoyang,
The first dynasty in China was founded Henan Province) and was dominated by
by the Shang around 1600 BC. The Shang political conflict and social unrest as rival
lived in large, complex societies and factions jockeyed for power. Some 25
were the first to mass-produce cast emperors reigned during its duration. It also
bronze. Power centered on the ruling saw economic expansion and development
elite who acted as shamans of a sort, as the use of iron revolutionized agriculture.
communicating with their ancestors and It was in this climate of unrest that the
gods through diviners. Elaborate bronze philosophical ideologies of Confucianism,
food and wine vessels were used both for Daoism, and Legalism emerged.
banqueting and for making ancestral

8000– 6500 BC 5000–3000 BC Yangshao 2200–1600 BC 1300 BC First writing 475–221 BC
Neolithic period culture based around Existence of on oracle bones Eastern Zhou:
the Wei river semimythical first Warring States
dynasty, the Xia c. 551–479 BC
Life of Confucius
2000 BC
8000 BC 6000 BC 4000 BC 1000 BC 500 BC

6500–5000 BC 1600–1050 BC 770–476 BC 513 BC First
Earliest settlements Shang dynasty Eastern Zhou: mention of iron
in northern China Spring and casting
1066 –771 BC Power Autumn period
seized by Zhou
Bronze food vessel, Shang

Detail from“The first Emperor of the Han Dynasty Entering Kuan Tung”by Song painter Chao Po Chu

58 INTRODUCING CHINA Shang Dynasty

Dynasty Timeline 1600–1050 BC
The Shang dynasty marked
China was ruled by a succession the emergence of Bronze
of dynasties, broken by periods of Age China and palace culture.
fragmentation and civil war. The emperor’s A semi-divine king acted as
authority was divinely granted through a shaman and communicated
a mandate of heaven and was thus with the gods.
unlimited. Leaders of succeeding dynasties
claimed that the previous leadership had Bronze tripod food
displeased the gods and had therefore vessel, Shang
had its heavenly mandate withdrawn.

Western Han Eastern Han

206 BC–AD 9 AD 25–220

Gaozu 206–195 BC Guang Wudi 25–57 Shundi 125–144
Huidi 195–188 BC Mingdi 57–75 Chongdi 144–145
Shaodi 188–180 BC Zhangdi 75–88 Zhidi 145–146
Wendi 180–157 BC Hedi 88–105 Huandi 146–168
Jingdi 157–141 BC Shangdi Lingdi 168–189
Wudi 141–87 BC Andi 106 Xiandi 189–220
Zhaodi 106–125
Xuandi 87–74 BC
Yuandi 74–49 BC Broken terracotta heads
Chengdi 49–33 BC found at Jingdi’s tomb
Aidi 33–7 BC
Pingdi
Ruzi 7–1 BC
1 BC–AD 6

AD 7–9

Tang Five Dynasties & Ten Kingdoms

618–907 907–960

Gaozu 618–626 Wenzong 827–840 Based north of the Yangzi, five successive
Wuzong 840–846 dynasties swiftly usurped one another, with
Taizong 626–649 Xuanzong 846–859 no dynasty lasting for more than three reigns.
Yizong 859–873 The Ten Kingdoms to the south went through
Gaozong 649–683 Xizong 873–888 a similarly turbulent period.
Zhaozong 888–904
Zhongzong 684 & 705–710 Aidi 904–907 Throughout this period and most of the
Song dynasty, the northern frontiers were
Ruizong 684–690 & 710–712 Sancai-glazed dominated by the semi-nomadic Liao dynasty
dancing tomb (907–1125) in the east, and by the Western Xia
Wu Zetian 690–705 figures (990–1227) in the west. In 1115, the Liao were
overthrown by the Jin (1115–1234), who forced
Xuanzong 712–756 the Song southwards in 1127.

Suzong 756–762

Daizong 762–779

Dezong 779–805

Shunzong 805

Xianzong 805–820

Muzong 820–824

Jingzong 824–827

Yuan Ming

1279–1368 1368–1644

Genghis Khan (1162–1227) Yesun Temur 1323–1328 Hongwu 1368–1398 Zhengde 1506–1521
united numerous Mongol Tugh Temur 1328–1329,
speaking tribes and 1329–1333 Jianwen 1399–1402 Jiajing 1522–1567
captured Beijing in 1215. Khoshila
His grandson, Kublai, Toghon Temur 1329 Yongle 1403–1424 Longqing 1567–1572
completed the conquest 1333–1368
of China by finally defeating Hongxi 1425 Wanli 1573–1620
the Southern Song in 1279.
Xuande 1426–1435 Taichang 1620

Zhengtong 1436–1449 Tianqi 1621–1627

Jingtai 1450–1457 Chongzhen 1628–1644

Tianshun 1457–1464

(Zhengtong restored)

Kublai Khan 1279–1294 Chenghua 1465–1487
Temur Oljeitu 1294–1307
Khaishan 1308–1311 Hongzhi 1488–1505
Ayurbarwada 1311–1320
Shidebala 1321–1323

THE HISTORY OF CHINA 59

Western Zhou Dynasty Eastern Zhou Dynasty Qin Dynasty

1066–771 BC 770–221 BC 221–206 BC 221–210 BC
Spring and Autumn 770–475 BC 210–207 BC
The Zhou founded their capital at Qin Shi Huang
Chang’an (Xi’an). They continued Warring States 475–221 BC Er Shi
some Shang traditions, but
reorganized the political system, The Zhou dynasty ruled at its
dividing the nobility into grades. eastern capital of Luoyang
The feudal system of the Western alongside numerous rival states.
Zhou broke down after the capital This long period of almost constant
was sacked and the king slain. warfare was brought to an end
when the Qin emerged victorious.
Statue of attendant
from the tomb of
Qin Shi Huangdi

Period of Disunity Sui

220–589 581–618

China was divided into the warring Wei, Wu, China was once more
and Shu kingdoms. The Wei briefly re-united united by the short and
China under the Western Jin (280–316), the decisive rule of the Sui.
first of the six Southern Dynasties (280–589),
with their capital at Jiankang (Nanjing). Wendi 581–604
Yangdi 604–617
The north was ruled by a succession of Gongdi 617–618
ruling houses – the 16 Kingdoms (304–439).
The nomadic Toba Wei set up the Northern
Wei dynasty, the first of five Northern
Dynasties (386–581) with a capital first
at Datong, then at Luoyang.

Emperor Wendi’s flotilla
on the Grand Canal

Northern Song Southern Song

960–1126 1127–1279

Taizu 960–976 Shenzong 1068–1085 Gaozong 1127–1162
Taizong 976–997 Zhezong 1086–1101
Zhenzong 998–1022 Huizong 1101–1125 Xiaozong 1163–1190
Renzong 1022–1063 Qinzong 1126–1127
Yingzong 1064–1067 Guangzong 1190–1194

Ningzong 1195–1224

Lizong 1225–1264

Duzong 1265–1274

Gongdi 1275

Duanzong 1276–1278

Di Bing 1279

Painting by
Emperor Huizong

Qing

1644–1911

Shunzhi 1644–1661

Kangxi 1661–1722

Yongzheng 1723–1735

Qianlong 1736–1795

Jiaqing 1796–1820

Daoguang 1821–1850

Xianfeng 1851–1861

Tongzhi 1862–1874

Guangxu 1875–1908

Xuantong (Pu Yi) 1909–1912

The Zhengde Emperor’s love of leisure Imperial dragon detail on the back
led to a relaxation of imperial control of a eunuch’s official court robe

60 INTRODUCING CHINA

Foundation of Imperial China The Han empire expanded with regions

The Warring States Period was finally of Central Asia, Vietnam, and Korea

brought to an end as the Qin emerged being brought under Chinese control.

victorious. In 221 BC, Qin Shi pronounced In 138 BC, General Zhang Qian was sent

himself the first emperor (huangdi) of China to establish diplomatic links with Central

and ruled over a short yet decisive period Asia and returned with tales of rich

of history. The Qin state was based on pastures and “heavenly horses.”The fine

the political theories of Legalism, which thoroughbreds of Ferghana (in modern

established the role of the ruler as Uzbekistan) were traded in exchange

paramount and espoused a for Chinese silk, starting the flow of

system of collective responsibility. goods along the fabled Silk Road

Following unification, Qin Shi (see pp470–71).

conscripted thousands of workers Han rule was briefly interrupted

to join together the defensive as Wang Mang seized power in

walls to the north, creating the AD 9, only to be restored by

Great Wall. He standardized the Guang Wudi (r. AD 25–57),

system of money, and weights who established the Eastern

and measures, and laid the Archer from Qin Han capital in Luoyang. Once

foundations for a legal system. terracotta army more, the Han expanded

A ruthless ruler, Qin Shi died in the Chinese territory. Paper was

belief that his famous terracotta army by now in use for much official

would protect him in the afterlife from documentation and the first Chinese

his numerous enemies. dictionary was produced. Buddhism

The founding of the Han dynasty (206 BC– began its spread to China with the first

AD 220) heralded a “golden age” in Chinese Buddhist communities being established

history. Emperor Gaodi (r. 206–195 BC) in Jiangsu province.

established the capital of the Western Han

(206 BC–AD 9) at Chang’an (Xi’an), and

retained much of the centralized

administration established by the Qin.

Subsequent emperors developed the civil

service examination to select able men for

state office. Han society was founded on

the principles propounded by Confucius,

and the Confucian classics formed the basis

of the civil service examination. Daoism

and yin-yang theory coexisted with

ancestor worship and would form the basis

of indigenous Chinese belief (see pp36–9). Chariot and footmen, impressed into a tomb’s brick, Han

213 BC Burning of 206 BC–AD 9 c. 139–126 BC Official envoy Zhang Qian establishes c. 100 First dictionary
the books as part Western Han capital Shuo Wen produced
established at first diplomatic and trading links of Silk Road with more than
of process of Chang’an (Xi’an) Bronze 9,000 characters
“unification”
200 BC AD 2 First known census: horse and AD 100

57,671,400 individuals rider, Han 65 First mention of
Buddhist community
100 BC 1 established at court of
Prince Ying of Chu
221–206 BC Qin 165 BC First official 25–220 Eastern
dynasty under first examinations for the Han dynasty
selection of civil servants
emperor, Qin Shi capital at Luoyang

Tomb figure, Qin

THE HISTORY OF CHINA 61

Sui emperors Yangdi and Wendi in a detail from“Portraits of the 13 Emperors”by Tang painter Yen Li Pen

Period of Division climate of relative stability, the south

From the rule of Hedi (r. AD 88–105), the became the economic and cultural center

Eastern Han declined. Civil war finally split as the population shifted to the Yangzi

the country in 220. The next 350 years were delta. Philosophy and the arts flourished

characterized by almost constant warfare alongside a renewed interest in Daoism

as China was ruled by over 14 short-lived and a growing interest in Buddhism.

dynasties and 16 “kingdoms.”
China was divided into the Northern and Unification and Stability

Southern dynasties (265–581), each region Following military successes against the

taking on its own distinct character. Foreign Liang and the Chen, the Northern Zhou

peoples took control of the North, such as the general Yang Jian (541–604) pronounced

Toba branch of the Xianbei, who founded himself emperor, taking the

the Northern Wei in 386. These name Wendi, and founded the

rulers were receptive to foreign Sui dynasty in 581. This brief but

ideas and religions, creating significant dynastic rule

some of the finest Buddhist established political and social

cave complexes first at Yungang, stability. He undertook an

near their capital in Datong, and extensive program of works

from 494, at Longmen, when they including extending the Great Wall

moved their capital to Luoyang. Apsara from Buddhist cave, and the beginnings of the Grand

As foreign invaders took Northern Wei Canal. The second emperor,

control of the North, the Han Yangdi (569–617), restored

Chinese retreated south to establish their diplomatic relations with Japan and Taiwan

new capital at Jiankang (Nanjing). In a and extended trade to Central Asia.

190 Communications with 310 Massive Colossal Buddha at 581–618 Sui dynasty,
central Asia are cut exodus of Yungang Caves, initiated by Wendi’s
Chinese upper Northern Wei
late 3rd c. Renewed interest classes to South reunification of China
in Daoism
300 400 500 600
200
c. 6th C c. 7th C
220 Civil war 265–581 China divided 386–535 Northern Wei, First true Woodblock
breaks out into Northern and first of the ruling houses to porcelain printing first
Southern dynasties adopt Buddhism produced used in China
between the
kingdoms of Wei,

Shu, and Wu

62 INTRODUCING CHINA Locator Map
Tang rule AD 750
Tang Dynasty

The Tang Dynasty is widely regarded as one of China’s golden
ages, characterized by economic prosperity, territorial
expansion, and political stability. During this period China
reached its largest size to date: from Korea to Vietnam and
across Central Asia to southern Siberia. Trade flourished by
land and sea, stimulating the flow of luxury goods between
East and West. Foreign religions were tolerated and Buddhism
gained popular and imperial patronage. The arts
and literature of the Tang are still considered
to be among China’s finest, notably the
famous poets Li Bai and Du Fu.

This pottery figure, The similar
decorated in three- figures carry
color or sancai glaze, typical attributes
depicts life along the of Avalokitesvara:
Silk Route. Merchants this one holds a
and pilgrims traveled flower; the other a
the legendary route vase and a sprig
bringing with them
objects crafted in of willow.

gold and silver, Foreign envoys,
textiles, exotic foods, including Koreans (the
figure on the right) and
and fine horses. westerners (standing next
to the Korean), traveled to
the Tang court for
delegations and giving
tribute, as seen in this
tomb mural.

Ample, draped robes,
typical of Tang style

This silver cup, part of
a hoard of buried
treasure dug up in
1970, shows distinct

western influence,
although the relief decoration
is lavishly Tang.

Chang’an’s (Xi’an’s) elaborate city walls
enclosed a population of one million by the

seventh century, making Chang’an the
largest city in the world. The cosmopolitan
capital was populated by Sogdians, Turks,

Uighurs, Arabs, and Persians.

THE HISTORY OF CHINA 63

Emperor Taizong (r. 626–49) Wu Zetian (r. 690–705), the only
was a great military strategist, empress in Chinese history,
strengthening border protection
and establishing diplomatic and manipulated her weak husband,
trade links with foreign nations. Emperor Gaozong, and ruthlessly
An overhaul of the civil service eradicated her opposition. Despite
examination system lead to her scandalous nature, she became
greater social mobility and a strong ruler and brought peace
contributed to stable
government. and prosperity.

Inscriptions were written Emperor Xuanzong
for wealthy donors who (r. 712–56) or Minghuang,
commissioned paintings the Brilliant Emperor, ruled
on behalf of themselves or over a glorious period. A
loved ones in order to great scholar and patron
accrue religious merit. of the arts, he poured
his wealth into temple
Avalokitesvara, one of construction and founded
the most popular the Academy of Letters
bodhisattvas, is identified (Hanlinyuan) in 754.
by the Amitabha Buddha
in his crown.

Dunhuang Silks An Emperor’s Love and Demise

During the Tang Dynasty, Buddhism In his later years, the Xuanzong emperor
gained popular and imperial increasingly neglected his official duties
support, particularly under the rule as he became infatuated with his
of the devout Wu Zetian. Buddhist concubine, Yang Guifei. Intrigue and
communities became important factions at court bred instability and
centers for the translation of sutras in AD 750, General An Lushan, half
and the production of Buddhist Sogdian half Turkish by descent,
arts, such as the fine silk paintings seized control of the northeastern
of Dunhuang. frontier. In 755 An Lushan stormed
the capital forcing the court to flee for
Sichuan. As they reached Mawai,
Xuanzong’s troops mutinied and
demanded the emperor hand over Yang
Guifei. She was strangled before his eyes,
and the tragic story of their love affair has
been immortalised by poets. Although An
Lushan was eventually defeated, the Tang
dynasty fell into decline.

Yang Guifei’s plump figure became
a classic sancai form

64 INTRODUCING CHINA

Glory of the Tang of the Northern Song, the Ruzhen took

The Tang dynasty (AD 618–907) marks a control of the north and founded the Jin

high point in Chinese history (see dynasty. The Liao were forced westwards

pp62–3). During this golden to the region of the Tian mountain

age, China enjoyed an range in present-day Xinjiang,

extended period of peace where they established the

and prosperity. The arts Western Liao (1125–1211).

flourished and were enriched The rest of northwest China

by foreign styles, motifs, and was dominated by the

techniques such as Western Xia, a Tibetan related

silverworking. Foreign people who recognized the

religions, such as Nestorian Sancai glazed horse, Tang Liao as their overlords.

Christianity, were tolerated

and co-existed alongside native Daoism Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms

and Confucianism. Woodblock printing was (907–960)

invented by the Chinese some time during While the north of China was dominated

the 7th century and hastened the spread by the insurgence of semi-nomadic

of Buddhism. peoples from the steppe regions, the south

Following the An Lushan rebellion of 755, was ruled by a series of short military

the Tang became increasingly inward dictatorships. The Song dynasty was

looking. The great Buddhist persecution of founded in 960 by Zhao Kuangyin, a

841–46 was symptomatic of a dynasty in military commander of the later Zhou

decline, which finally fell in 907. (951–960), whose imperial name became

The Liao Dynasty (907–1125) Shizong. In the Yangzi delta and regions to
the south, the Ten Kingdoms existed in

The Liao dynasty, which at its largest relative peace and stability and were

covered much of Mongolia, Manchuria, reunited by the Song in 979.

and northern China, was ruled by

semi-nomadic and pastoral people,

the Qidan. The Liao maintained a

dual administration, Qidan and

Chinese, and even a prime-

ministership, to ensure the survival

of their own customs and traditions

whilst utilizing the efficiency of Tang

structures of government. In 1115,

the Qidan were overthrown by

another semi-nomadic people, the

Ruzhen (Jurchen). With the support Painting of an official celebrating, Five Dynasties (923–938)

618–907 690–705 Empress 755–763 An Lushan 806 Earliest dated 907–60 Period of 10th c.
Tang Dynasty Wu Zetian rules rebellion drives printed manuscript, division known as Gunpowder
heralds new as first empress the Diamond Sutra Five Dynasties and and fire arms
golden age of China emperor and court first used
from Chang’an Ten Kingdoms
to Sichuan

700 750 800 850 900

661 Chinese 705 806–820 First 907–1125 Qidan people rule
administration in Famous bankers’ bill northeastern China as the
Kashmir, Bokhara, poet Li Bai
and the borders of born 770 Death of great Liao dynasty, making Beijing
poet Du Fu their southern capital
eastern Iran Tang silver

THE HISTORY OF CHINA 65

The Song Dynasty (960–1279)

The Song presided over a period of cultural

brilliance and unprecedented growth in

urban life during which the social makeup

of China fundamentally changed. Less

territorially ambitious than the Tang, the

Song stimulated economic development

through improved communications and

transport. New industries based on mass

production began to emerge, notably the

porcelain industry based in Jiangxi

province. During the Southern Song, China

underwent an industrial revolution

producing quantities of raw materials such Illustration of Song Emperor Huizong, r. 1101–1125

as salt and iron on a scale that would not

be seen in Europe until the 18th century. with the Song against the Liao, the Jin

In this buoyant economic climate a new invaded the Northern Song capital at

middle-class emerged, stimulating demand Bianliang (Kaifeng), capturing emperor

for the new range of consumer goods. Power Qinzong and forcing the court to flee

shifted from the aristocratic elite to govern- southwards. The capital of the Southern

ment bureaucrats, who spent their spare Song (1127–1279) was established at Lin’an

time practising the arts of poetry, calligraphy, (Hangzhou) south of the Yangzi.

and painting. Collecting and connoisseurship

led to an artistic renaissance and the Jin Dynasty (1115–1234)

founding of the first Imperial collections. The Jin were a semi-nomadic Tungusic

Emperor Huizong was a great patron of people originating from Manchuria. War

the arts who used ancient precedents with the Song and persistent attacks from

and values to buttress his the Mongols resulted in a

own position. Neo- weakening of the Jin state

Confucianism and a renewed which by the early 13th

interest in Daoism marked century formed a buffer state

a return to indigenous between the Song in the

beliefs and traditional south and the Mongols in

structures of power. the north. In 1227, Mongol

The Northern Song and Chinese allied forces

repeatedly came under Early movable type, Song defeated the Jin and in 1234

attack from the Western Xia the Jin emperor committed

in the northwest and the Jin in the suicide. The Jin state was integrated into

northeast. Only 12 years after joining forces the rapidly expanding Mongol empire.

960–1126 Northern Detail of 1127–1279 Southern 1154 First issue of 1206–1208
Song reunites China painting by Song dynasty with paper money (Jin) Song and
and bases capital at Emperor Jin at war
Bianliang (Kaifeng) Huizong capital at Hangzhou,
after being forced
south by the Jin

950 1000 1050 1100 1150 1200

990–1227 Western Xia 1041–8 First attempts 1115–1234 Jin dynasty 1214 Jin move capital
people establish at printing with founded in northeast from Beijing to Kaifeng
movable type China forcing Liao
kingdom dominating westwards in Henan province
northwest China 1090 First attested use of
compass on Chinese ships

66 INTRODUCING CHINA

Mongol Rule (1279–1368) merchant spent 21 years in the service

The Mongol leader Genghis Khan (see p477) of Kublai and his court.

united the various Mongol-speaking tribes The Mongols ruled through a form of

of the steppes and in 1215 conquered military government, in contrast to the

northern China. He divided his empire into bureaucratic civil service established by

four kingdoms, each ruled by one of his the Chinese. Although Chinese and

sons. His grandson Kublai Khan (r. 1260– Mongol languages were both used for

94), ruler of the eastern Great Khanate, official business, the Chinese were not

finally defeated the Southern Song in encouraged to take up official posts.

1279 and proclaimed himself Muslims from Central and

emperor of the Yuan dynasty. Western Asia took their place,

China now became part of a vast and the Chinese increasingly

empire which stretched from the retreated from official life.

East China Sea across Asia as far As there were no clear rules

as Poland, Hungary and Bohemia. Buddhist deity, Yuan for succession, civil war broke out

Two capitals were maintained at in 1328 between Mongol nobles.

Dadu or Khanbalik (present-day Beijing) The secret societies of the Red Turbans and

and Yuanshangdu (Xanadu). The Silk the White Lotus led peasant rebellions and

Routes opened once more, connecting in 1368 General Zhu Yuanzhang forced the

China to the Middle East and Medieval Mongols out of China, becoming the first

Europe. Direct contact was now made for emperor of the Ming dynasty.

the first time between the Mongol court Ming Dynasty (1368–1644)
and European diplomats, Franciscan

missionaries, and merchants. According to The Ming (literally “brilliant”) dynasty was

the writings of Marco Polo, the Italian one of the longest and most stable periods

in China’s history. The founder of the Ming,

Zhu Yuanzhang, rose from humble

beginnings to become a general, ruling as

the Hongwu emperor (“vast military

accomplishment”). During his reign,

Hongwu introduced radical changes to

both central and local government, which

he made binding on his successors. The

emperor’s role became more autocratic as

Hongwu dispensed with the position of

Prime Minister, taking direct responsibility

for overseeing all six ministries himself.

Hongwu appointed his grandson to be his

Genghis Khan (c.1162–1227), Persian miniature successor. Upon his death, his son the Prince

1215 1234 Jin emperor Mongol on 1368–1644 Ming dynasty, 1403
Mongols commits suicide and horseback founded by rebel leader Construction of
capture Jin integrated into 1300 General Zhu Yuanzhang
Beijing Mongol empire Great Walls in
1279–1368 Kublai Khan 1350 North China
1250 defeats Southern Song and
rules China as emperor of 1400
the Yuan dynasty
1227 Genghis Khan dies, 1328 Civil war Jade elephant,
having united various breaks out between Ming
Mongol-speaking tribes Mongol nobles
of the steppe

THE HISTORY OF CHINA 67

The existing battlements of the Great Wall, reinforced and joined together during the Ming dynasty

of Yan, who controlled the region around reached as far as the east coast of Africa. In

Beijing, led an army against his nephew, 1514 Portuguese traders first landed in China,

taking Nanjing and proclaiming himself purchasing tea which then became a

emperor Yongle (“Eternal Joy”). Yongle fashionable drink in European society.

(r. 1403–24) moved the capital to his power Porcelain provided ballast for the ships, and

base in Beijing, where he created a new city other luxury items were brought back along

based on traditional principles of Chinese with the cargo. Trade was dominated by the

city planning. At its core lay the Forbidden Dutch in the 17th century, only to be

City (see pp92–5), the imperial palace and surpassed by the British a hundred years

offices of government, surrounded by later. Jesuit missionaries, who arrived in the

a grid system of streets, with four 16th century, claimed few converts

imperial altars at the cardinal but gained access to the emperor

points. The entire city was walled and the inner court.

to provide both protection and The arts thrived under the

enclosure. In 1421, Beijing became Xuande emperor (r. 1425–35), an

the official capital and would artist and poet, who patronized the

remain so until the present day. The arts, notably the porcelain industry

Great Wall was reinforced, extended and at Jingdezhen. In literature, the late Ming

faced with brick during the Ming dynasty. is noted for its great dramas and classical

By the 15th century, China had become novels, such as Journey to the West (see

a significant maritime power, its ships p35). Philosophy of the time reinforced

dwarfing those of contemporary Europe. the Neo-Confucianism of the Song.

Blue and white porcelain, silk, and The late Ming was dominated

other luxury items were in high Wedding jewelry, Ming by peasant uprisings, incursions by

demand in the foreign markets of Japanese pirates and Mongolian

Japan, Southeast Asia, and the Middle East. tribes, and excessive eunuch power.

Yongle sent six maritime expeditions under Rebellions within China eventually joined

the Muslim eunuch admiral Zheng He, which with external forces to end Ming rule.

1425–35 Xuande 1514 Portuguese land in Gilt bronze 1573–1620 Wanli reign 1620 The
emperor becomes China, becoming the first bowl, Ming begins well but dynasty Taichang emperor
first Ming emperor Europeans to trade in tea declines as emperor takes poisoned by
to patronize the little interest in duties eunuchs
arts extensively and porcelain

1450 1500 1550 1600

1420 Construction of Early 16th century Later 1538 Jesuit Father 1570 Popular 1600s Dutch 1601 Jesuit missionary
the Forbidden City in Ming monarchs neglect Matteo Ricci enters novel Xi Yu Ji dominate Matteo Ricci allowed to
Beijing completed duties of government and (Journey to enter Beijing
eunuch power increases southern China European trade
and begins the West) with China
published
missionary duties

68 INTRODUCING CHINA

Qing Rule (1644–1911) determined to extend China’s borders

The Manchu leader Nurhachi established beyond those of the Tang, personally

the Later Jin in 1616, organizing the leading campaigns to Burma, Vietnam,

scattered tribes of the north into eight and Central Asia.

banner units (see p438–9). In 1636, the During the 18th century, contact with

Manchu ruler Abahai changed the the west increased through Jesuit

name to Qing, literally “pure,” and missionaries and trade. By the mid-

prepared the way for the 18th century, the Chinese

capture of Beijing in 1644. sought to control trade by

Under Manchu control, China refusing all official contact

was once more ruled by a with Westerners and opening

foreign people. The Manchus only Canton to foreign mer-

were keen to adopt the chants. Pressure from European

Chinese method of rule, embassies increased as the

encouraging Chinese scholars British sent Lord Macartney

into the service of the new in 1792–94 to establish

empire. Dual administration Emperor Kangxi, r. 1661–1722 diplomatic relations and open

at national and provincial China to trade. China refused

levels meant Manchu and Chinese to grant a single concession to the British.

bureaucrats worked side by side using first

Manchu and later Chinese as the official The Decline of the Empire

languages of government. However, The 19th century is one of the most

despite the close interaction of Manchu turbulent periods of Chinese history, as

and Chinese, the ruling Manchus were internal uprisings, natural disasters, and the

careful to maintain a distinct separation in relentless encroachment of the West

order to protect their own privileges and culminated in the end of the empire.

cultural traditions. A succession of weak rulers were

The first emperors of the Qing were manipulated and controlled by the

enlightened rulers who presided over one

of the largest and most populous countries

in the world. The territorial aspirations of

the Kangxi emperor brought the regions

of Central Asia and southern Siberia once

more under Chinese control. Kangxi (see

p128) was succeeded by the Yongzheng

emperor. It was his fourth son, the

Qianlong emperor, “Lasting Eminence,”

(r. 1735–96) who heralded another golden

age. An ambitious ruler, Qianlong was Lord Macartney’s massive entourage arriving at Qianlong’s tent

1644–1800 Military expansion 1723–1735 Kangxi’s son The Shunzhi emperor, r. 1644–61
into Central Asia and Siberia; Yin Zhen seizes power
colonization of new territories ruling under name of 1747 Qianlong builds Yuanming
Yunnan and Xinjiang emperor Yongzheng Yuan (see p109) in western style

1650 1675 1700 1725 1750

1644–1911 1650 First 1661–1722 Rule of Kangxi 1735–1796 Qianlong, a great 1757 Chinese
Manchus Catholic emperor. Appoints Jesuits to patron of the arts, rules over restrict all foreign
church in run Board of Astronomy another golden age trade to Canton
establish Qing Beijing
dynasty

THE HISTORY OF CHINA 69

borders with Vietnam. In 1900 the Boxers

allied with imperial troops and attacked the

foreign legations in Beijing (see p439). An

eight-nation army defeated the onslaught,

and Cixi fled to Xi’an, blaming everything

on the emperor. The Chinese government

paid once more for the loss of life and

Cixi returned to Beijing until her death in

1908. The child emperor Pu Yi lived in the

Forbidden City as the last emperor until

his abdication. On 1 January 1912 the

A merchant testing tea quality in a Cantonese warehouse Republican leader Sun Yat-sen inaugurated

the Chinese Republic.

Dowager Empress Cixi, who ruled for much
of the late Qing from “behind the curtain.” From Empire to Republic

The Taiping Rebellion of 1850–64 devastated In the final years of the empire, many

south and central China (see p428). Chinese intellectuals recognized the need

Western powers, frustrated by the to modernize. Supporters of the Reform

reluctance of the Chinese to open to Movement of 1898 propounded the

foreign trade, brought the Chinese under adoption of western technology and

increasing pressure. Keen to protect the education, and, following the Boxer

trade of opium from their colonies in India, Rebellion, a number of reforms were

the British engaged in the First adopted. Elected regional assemblies

Opium War (1840–42), which were set up, further undermining

culminated in the Treaty of the power of the Qing. In 1911

Nanjing, resulting in the the empire collapsed

opening of four new ports to completely. Sun Yat-sen (see

trade, known as “Treaty Ports”, p303) was elected provisional

the payment of huge President of China, but was

indemnities, and the ceding soon forced to resign in favor

of Hong Kong to Britain. of general Yuan Shikai, who

Following the Arrow War sought to become emperor.

(Second Opium War) with Britain Yuan was forced to back down

and France (1856), the European when governors revolted and he

forces divided China into “spheres Sun Yat-sen, 1866–1925 died soon after in 1916. China

of influence” – the British then came under the control of a

strongest along the Yangzi and in Shanghai, series of regional warlords until it was

the Germans controlling Shandong united once more with the founding of the

province, and the French controlling the People’s Republic of China in 1949.

1796–1805 White 1816 Lord Amherst 1850–64 1856–58 Arrow 1898 The 1900 Boxer
Lotus Rebellion leads British envoy Taiping War (Second Guangxu emperor uprising
seeking to open Opium War) with
damages prestige and China to trade Rebellion Britain and France imprisoned by
wealth of dynasty Empress Cixi

1775 1800 1825 1850 1875 1900

1792–94 Lord Macartney leads 1861 Empress Cixi’s nail 1908 Death
embassy to Beijing and Dowager Cixi begins covers of Empress
unsuccessfully attempts to establish Dowager Cixi
trade relations with England “rule from behind
the screen” 1894 Sino-
Jade pendant, Qing Japanese war
1840–42 First Opium
War with Britain

70 INTRODUCING CHINA

The Cultural Revolution

In 1965, Mao Zedong set in motion a chain of events that Children were encouraged to take
were to unleash the turmoil now known as the Cultural part in the Revolution. Their
Revolution. Having socialized industry and agriculture, enthusiasm led to the destruction
Mao called on the masses to transform society itself – all of family photographs and
distinctions between manual and intellectual work were to possessions. In some cases, children
be abolished and class distinction disappear. The revolution denounced their own parents.
reached its violent peak in 1967, with the Red Guards
spreading social unrest. The People’s Liberation Army (PLA)
finally restored order, but the subsequent years were
characterized by fear, violence, and mistrust.

The Red Guard

Mao appealed to students to form the Red Guard,
in whom he entrusted the fate of the revolution.

The movement rapidly gathered momentum and
the Red Guard, who raised Mao to godly status,
traveled China spreading Mao Zedong
“Thoughts,” smashing remnants of the past,
vandalizing temples, and wreaking havoc.

Mass public meetings were held as part of the
Socialist Education Movement, a precursor of the
Cultural Revolution intended to reverse “capitalist”
and “revisionist” tendencies perceived in social and
economic life. Everyone was required to attend.

An injured cadre is carried away after The Little Red Book
being denounced. Shamings became was essential to the Red
the bench mark of public meetings. Guard and issued to
Many politicians and teachers were every soldier under Lin
paraded and accused, leading to job Biao’s command.
loss and, in some cases, suicide.

Demonstrating their opposition to
Soviet-style communism and their
support for Maoism, Red Guards

change a Beijing street sign in front of
the Soviet Embassy from East Yangwei

to Fanxiu Lu (Anti-revisionism Road).

THE HISTORY OF CHINA 71

Lin Biao spread the study of the Model operas were the
“Thoughts of Mao” and compiled the Little pet project of Mao’s third
Red Book which became obligatory reading wife, Jiang Qing. She set
for his army recruits. As head of the PLA, Lin about creating a politically
Biao provided essential military backing
and was Mao’s named successor. He died correct revolutionary
in a plane crash over Siberia in 1971 amid culture. Many artists and
rumors of an imminent usurpation. intellectuals were sent to

the countryside for
re-education.

May 7 Cadre Schools were set up by the central
government in 1968. 100,000 officials plus 30,000
family members were sent to perform manual labor
and undergo ideological re-education. An
unknown number of lower-ranking cadres were
sent to thousands of other cadre schools.

Liu Shaoqi (right),
president from 1959–66,
was one of a number
of high officials to be
denounced,
imprisoned, and
paraded in “struggle
rallies.” He died from
his experiences.

Gang of Four

The Gang of Four, as they became known, orchestrated Lynched effigies of members of the Gang of
attacks on intellectuals and writers, high officials, the Four hanging from a tree
party, and the state and were responsible for some of the
worst excesses of the Cultural Revolution. Zhang
Chunqiao, critic and propagandist, Yao Wenyuan, editor-
in-chief of Shanghai Liberation Army Daily, Wang
Hongwen, a young worker, and Mao’s third wife Jiang
Qing, an ex-film star, dominated the political center
unchallenged until Mao’s death in 1976. Millions of
Chinese citizens watched their televized trial in 1980–81.
Jiang Qing, who was singled out by propagandists and
became one of the most hated figures in China, was
defiant until the end, railing against her prosecutors
throughout the trial. She took her own life in 1991, while
serving her life sentence.

72 INTRODUCING CHINA

Yan’an, where the march ended, became
the new Communist Party headquarters
and would remain so until 1945.

Japanese Attack

Chiang Kai-shek (1887–1975), leader of the KMT Domestic turmoil laid China open to attack,
and in 1931 the Japanese occupied
Communists and Nationalists Manchuria, founding the puppet state of
Manchukuo and placing the last Qing
After the fall of the empire, the political emperor, Pu Yi, at its head (see p452). By
landscape changed dramatically and became 1937 the Japanese had occupied much of
dominated by two forces, the Nationalist northern China, Shanghai, and the Yangzi
Party or Kuomintang (KMT) and the Commu- valley ruthlessly taking cities, wreaking
nist Party, founded in 1921. The Nationalists death and devastation. The Japanese were
were led first by Sun Yat-sen from his power finally driven from Chinese soil in 1945, and
base in Guangzhou, then by General China was plunged into civil war.
Chiang Kai-shek who seized power in 1926.
In 1923 the two Parties formed a “united The East Is Red
front” against the warlords, but in 1926 the By 1947, the Communist policy of land
Communists were expelled from the KMT. reform was reaping rewards and gaining
Chiang Kai-shek led his army to Nanjing the support of people in the countryside. In
where he tried to establish a Nationalist 1948–9, the Communists gained decisive
capital, and betrayed the Communist-led victories over the KMT. On 1 October 1949
workers of Shanghai who were massacred Chairman Mao pronounced the founding
by underworld gangsters. The Communists of the People’s Republic of China in Beijing.
were driven underground and Mao Zedong Chiang Kai-shek fled to Taiwan, establishing
retreated to the countryside. a Nationalist government and taking with
him many Imperial treasures.
High in the mountains of Jiangxi
province, Mao and Zhu De founded Communist poster depicting Mao surrounded by the masses
the Jiangxi Soviet in 1930. From this
inaccessible base, the communists began
to redistribute land to the peasants and
institute new marriage laws. In 1934,
Chiang Kai-shek drove the communists
from the area, forcing Mao to embark on
the legendary Long March (see pp262–3).

1912 Abdication 1921 Founding of the 1945 End of 1958 Radical reform of the 1965 Mao
of emperor Pu Yi Chinese Communist Party World War II; Great Leap Forward launches
marks the end of Japan defeated Cultural
Imperial China 1937 Japanese take much 1947 Civil War breaks Revolution
of northern China 1940 out in China
1910
1920 1930 1950 1960

1926 Chiang 1934 Mao leads the Red 1951–2 Rural co-ops
Kai-shek seizes Army on Long March established

leadership of 1931 Japanese invasion 1949 Mao proclaims
National Party of Manchuria founding of People’s
Republic of China
Last Emperor Pu Yi

THE HISTORY OF CHINA 73

In the early years of the democracy movement

People’s Republic, the called for political reform

Chinese worked hard to and an end to corruption,

re-build a country but was brutally suppressed

devastated by 100 years of in Beijing’s Tian’an Men

turmoil. New laws sought Square and in other large

to redress inequities of the cities. Whilst many

past, redistributing land students and intellectuals

and outlawing arranged Zhou Enlai with President Nixon fled abroad, others remain

marriages. In 1957 the incarcerated in China’s

Party launched the Hundred Flowers move- jails. Deng Xiaoping pressed on with

ment, which initially encouraged freedom economic reform, and the 1990s saw the

of expression. Unprepared for the storm of opening of Special Economic Zones and

criticism which resulted, the Party promptly stock exchanges in Shenzhen and

branded intellectuals as “rightists” and sent Shanghai. By 1992, the economy had

them to the countryside for re-education. become one of the largest in the world.

Frustrated with the slow rate of change, Mao The unprecedented rate of economic

launched the Great Leap Forward in 1958. growth in the 1990s was matched by the

Large communes providing food and transformation of the landscape as traditional

childcare replaced the family, releasing buildings made way for modern highrises.

manual labor and improving productivity. The former colonies of Hong Kong and

But unrealistic productivity targets and the Macau were

falsification of statistics concealed the returned to China

disastrous effect of Mao’s experiment. and foreign

Agricultural failure coupled with natural investment

disasters resulted in the starvation of millions. flooded in, with

Having reformed agriculture and industry, entrepreneurs

Mao sought to transform society and prospering.

launched the Cultural Revolution in 1965 Disbanding the

(see pp70–71). The greatest excesses of the state economy

period were over by 1971, but the country has also spawned

was tightly controlled and directed until inequity, and the

Mao’s death in 1976. Deng Xiaoping emerged gap between rich Chinese traders on the Stock Exchange

as leader, implementing economic reforms and poor grows

which returned land to the peasants and increasingly wider. How the most populous

encouraged greater economic freedom. nation on earth resolves the many issues it

The economic liberalization of the 1980s faces is of compelling interest to the rest of a

stimulated the economy but was unmatched world on whose future a re-awakened China

by political freedom. On 4 June 1989 the is going to have a massive impact.

Little Red Book 1993 Jiang Zemin 2003 Chinese launch first manned spacecraft;
becomes president; Hu Jintao becomes president
1976 Mao dies construction of Three
1978 Deng Xiaoping Gorges Dam begins 2008 Beijing hosts
emerges as leader the Olympics

1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020

1989 Democracy movement 1997 Hong 2001 China 2013 Xi Jinping takes
suppressed in Tian’an Men Square Kong handed admitted as over as president
back to China; member of World
1972 President Nixon is first American Trade Organization 2010 Shanghai hosts the 2010
president to visit China Macau, two World Expo. Guangzhou also hosts
years later the Asian Games.



BEIJING & THE
NORTH

Introducing Beijing & 76–83
the North 84–125
126–145
Beijing 146–165
Hebei, Tianjin & Shanxi 166–177
Shandong & Henan
Shaanxi

76 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Beijing & the North
at a Glance

Threaded by the yellow river and the Great Wall, China’s Jining
north encompasses the six provinces of Hebei, Tianjin,
Shanxi, Shandong, Henan, and Shaanxi, as well as Beijing, Practicing tai ji quan, Temple of Yanggao
the nation’s capital. From this vast domain, six ancient Heaven, Beijing
capitals governed China, leaving behind a wealth of
dynastic sites, such as Beijing’s magnificent Forbidden Datong
City, the Terracotta Warriors near Xi’an, and the Buddhist
carvings at Longmen and Yungang. The region’s religious Baotou Shuozhou
sites include the Daoist peaks of Hua Shan and Tai Shan, the
Buddhist Wutai Shan, and the Shaolin Temple. Along the
coast are the ports of Tianjin and Qingdao, preserves of
European architecture, and Shanhaiguan, where the
Great Wall meets the sea.

Shenmu Y Wutai Shan
Yulin ello w River 3058m

Yuanping

Yinchuan Hengshan Guandi Shan
Suide
Dingbian Linxian 2831m Yangquan
Jingbian
Taiyuan
Wuqi
Lüliang Jinzhong

SHANXI

Jiexiu Pingyao

Yanchuan

Vividly painted cave interior at the Yan’an Huozhou
Yungang Caves, Datong, Shanxi Fuxian
Changzhi
Jixian Linfen
Yichuan

Luochuan Hejin

Li Shan Xinxiang
2322m Jiaozuo

Tongchuan Yuncheng

Lanzhou SHAANXI Sanmenxia

Baoji Xianyang Weinan Luoyang Zhengzhou
Lingbao
Fengxian Taibai Shan Shouyang Songxian H E N A N
3767m Shan Xi’an
2720m
Shangzhou

Lüeyang Laojun Shan Pingdingshan
Hanzhong 2192m

Zhen’an Xixia

Shiquan

Ningqiang Zhenba Ziyang Ankang Nanyang
Guangyuan Pingli
Key Xiangfan
Getting Around Expressway
Main road
Beijing has good air, rail, and bus links to the surrounding Minor road
region. There are daily flights to Shanghai, Xi’an, Chengdu, Main railway
Chongqing, Shenzhen, Guangzhou, Qingdao, Hangzhou, and Other railway
Hong Kong. Express trains link Beijing directly with all the Provincial border
region’s large cities, while many smaller towns are served by Summit
slower trains. Tianjin is a major north-south rail junction. There
is also a comprehensive long-distance bus service, while
faster private buses ply the popular tourist routes.

Colorful pavilions in Bei Hai Park, Beijing

INTRODUCING BEIJING & THE NORTH 77

Chifeng

Weichang

Guyuan

Fengning

Zhangbei Chengde Pingquan
Zhangjiakou
BEIJING
Xuanhua Xinglong Qinglong
Qinhuangdao HEBEI, TIANJIN
Huailai BEIJING & SHANXI

Xiaowutai Shan SHI

2882m Beijing SHANDONG
Yuxian & HENAN

TIANJIN Tangshan SHAANXI
SHI
Laiyuan Zhuozhou

Baoding Jinghai Tianjin

Bohai Bo Hai

HEBEI Wan
Cangzhou

Shijiazhuang Botou Penglai
Yantai
Laizhou Weihai
Dongying Wan Rongcheng

Dezhou Binzhou Laiyang Shidao
Zibo Weifang
Xingtai

Haiyang

Handan Linqing Jinan Boshan

Liaocheng SHANDONG Qingdao
Anyang
Tai’an
River Zhucheng
Yellow Suncun Jiaonan

Heze Qufu Yishui

Rizhao

Jining Linyi Andongwei

Kaifeng Zaozhuang Lianyungang

Shangqiu Xuzhou 0 km 150
0 miles 150

Yongcheng

Zhoukou
Luohe

Bengbu

Queshan

Xixian
Huangchuan

Xinyang

Shangcheng Hefei

Wuhan

The imposing Great White Dagoba at Tayuan Si, Wutai Shan, Shanxi
For additional map symbols see back flap

78 BEIJING & THE NORTH

A PORTRAIT OF BEIJING
& THE NORTH

The yellow river, the wellspring of Chinese culture and civilization, carves a
course through the country’s parched northern terrain, the historic homeland
of the Han Chinese and location of the most significant monuments. Thus most
visitors to the Middle Kingdom usually concentrate on these historic sites,
beginning with the nation’s capital, Beijing.

For millennia, the Yellow River (Huang He) Manchuria. Although the Great Wall
has nurtured the communities strung was built as a defensive fortification, it
along its banks while sporadically washing could not prevent the hordes of nomadic
away their settlements. The great river tribes, the so-called “barbarians,” from
flows through the provinces of Shaanxi, entering China.
Shanxi, Henan, and Shandong, often
forming a natural boundary between Neolithic finds and archeological sites
provinces. It also features in the names wrote the province of Henan into the
of Henan (South of the River) and Hebei earliest pages of Chinese history. Here,
(North of the River). In its long and looping South of the Yellow River, Luoyang and
journey it traverses a land rich in historic Kaifeng are two of the country’s most
sights and cities, before spilling into Bo Hai important dynastic capitals; another
(Bo Sea), north of the sacred mountain, Tai ancient city, Anyang, was capital of the
Shan. Occasionally, it comes across the Shang dynasty. However, it is Xi’an in
vestiges of that other barrier, the Great Shaanxi province that is more eclipsed
Wall. Now a largely disintegrating bastion, by its past than any other ancient capital.
the wall crawls across the face of North Xi’an’s most magnificent treasures are the
China, a reminder of the region’s Terracotta Warriors (see pp174–5), created
vulnerable position so close to the border to guard the tomb of Qin Shi Huangdi, the
with Inner Mongolia and erstwhile Qin emperor who unified China. However
Xi’an reached its zenith during the Tang

The Tower of the Fragrance of the Buddha overlooking Kunming Lake at the Summer Palace, Beijing

INTRODUCING BEIJING & THE NORTH 79

The modern skyline of Qingdao, Shandong Province on China’s east coast

dynasty (see pp62–3), prospering because industrialized but there are still many

of its position at the eastern end of the Silk sights that demand attention, such as

Road. The Grand Mosque and sizable the Buddhist monastery of Chongshan

Muslim population testify to Si (see p143), the holy mountain

Xi’an’s cosmopolitan grandeur Tai Shan, and the port of Tianjin,

during that time. Hebei’s former capital. Despite

Toward the end of the 13th modernization, Tianjin has

century, the Mongol Kublai preserved its European

Khan established Beijing as his architecture, a legacy of its

capital. But it was only in 1407, past as a foreign trading post.

when the Ming emperor The Buddhist sculptures at the

Yongle moved his seat of UNESCO World Heritage Site of

power here, that Beijing the Longmen Caves in Luoyang

achieved imperial status. (see pp160–61) are remarkable

Still organized along its grand Lighting incense sticks Beijing’s while Shandong is best known

Ming and Qing dynasty lines, Lama Temple for Qufu, the birthplace of

it is a city of straight, wide Confucius, the eminent

boulevards and narrow, winding alleys philosopher-sage, whose teachings,

around an ancient palatial core, the which greatly influenced Chinese culture,

Forbidden City. The temples and palaces are acceptable once more.

are today complemented by slick

shopping streets and the commercial

buzz of a people coming into their

own in the 21st century.

The two adjoining provinces of

Hebei and Shanxi are griddles in

summer and iceboxes in winter,

although Hebei’s eastern seaboard

towns benefit from cooling sea

breezes. Shanxi, on the other hand,

is sometimes affected by seasonal

sand storms blowing in from the

Gobi Desert. Hebei’s fertile soil and

productive agrarian economy contrast

with landlocked Shanxi’s mineral-rich The kind of scenery that has inspired Chinese poets and artists for
terrain. Both provinces are heavily thousands of years, Hua Shan, Shaanxi

80 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Beijing Opera

One among many hundreds of local operas across China, Emperor Qianlong, credited with
Beijing Opera began in the qing dynasty. It is said that starting Beijing Opera
Emperor qianlong (r.1736–96), on a tour of the south, was
rather taken by the operas of Anhui and Hebei and brought
these troupes back to Beijing, where a new form of opera
was established. The Guangxu emperor and Dowager
Empress Cixi were also keen devotees and helped develop
the art form. Beijing Opera has proved remarkably resilient,
surviving the persecution of actors and the banning of most
of the plays during the Cultural Revolution.

Beijing Opera

Visually stunning and with a distinct
musical style, the plays are based on
Chinese history and literature. Beijing
Opera is a form of “total theater” with
singing, speech, mime, acrobatics, and

symbolic visual effects.

Monkey is one
of the favorite
characters – clever,
resourceful, and
brave. He appears
in Chinese classic
literature (see p34–5).

The colors of the painted faces
symbolize the individual
character’s qualities. Red, for
example, represents loyalty and
courage; purple, solemnity and a
sense of justice; green, bravery
and irascibility.

Riding a horse is The acrobatics of Beijing Opera combine
represented by raising a graceful gymnastics and movements from
tasseled horsewhip. Other the martial arts. Training is notoriously hard.
actions and movement on The costumes are designed to make the
jumps seem more spectacular by billowing
the stage are similarly out as they spin.
stylized rather than realistic.

INTRODUCING BEIJING & THE NORTH 81

Musical Instruments Gong Pipa Erhu
Suona
Despite the dramatic visual elements of Beijing Opera,
the Chinese say that they go to “listen” to opera, not to
see it. The importance of the musical elements should
not therefore be underestimated. Typically six or seven
instrumentalists accompany the opera. The stringed
instruments usually include the erhu or Chinese two-
stringed violin, sanxian or three-stringed lute, and moon
guitar, or possibly pipa (traditional lute). The main function
of the instruments is to accompany the singing. Percussion
instruments include clappers, gongs, and drums. These are
used largely to punctuate the action; movement and sound
are intimately linked. Wind instruments also sometimes
feature, such as the Chinese horn, flute, and suona.

Mei Lanfang was the foremost
interpreter of the female role type or
dan during the opera’s heyday in the
1920s and 1930s. Traditionally all female
roles were played by male actors,
although that has now changed.

The Four Main Roles

Sheng: these may be Chou: with a There are four main role types in Beijing
young or old, with white patch on his Opera: the sheng (male) and dan
beard or without. face, the chou is (female) roles have naturalistic make-
usually dim but up. The jing or “painted faces,” in
Dan: there are six amusing.
parts within this contrast, have stylized
role from virtuous patterned, colored faces,
girl to old woman. while the chou are comic
characters.

Jing: the most striking
looking, they also have the

most forceful personality.

82 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Regional Food: Beijing & the North

Communities developed beside the Yellow River before 6000 BC, Chinese cabbage
but it is not until about 1500 BC, when written records started,
that a picture of the dietary habits of the ancient Chinese
becomes clear. They kept pigs and grew millet, wheat, barley, and
rice and even fermented their grain to make alcoholic beverages.
Later (around 1100 BC), soybeans were added to the Chinese
diet, soon followed by by-products such as soy sauce and
beancurd (tofu). Beijing never had a distinctive cuisine of its own,
but as the center of the empire it imported elements and
influences from a variety of sources.

abalone, all imported from Shandong
the south – feature as well as
artistic presentation and poetic As the birthplace and home of
names. Imperial cuisine can be Confucius, the cuisine of Shan-
summed up as the distillation dong is generally regarded as
of the creations of generations the oldest and best in China.
of Imperial Palace chefs over Shandong has produced the
almost a millennium. largest number of famous
master chefs, and it is even said

Candied apples on the street, a feature of Marinated, Steamed
northern cuisine roast duck pancakes

The Palace Kitchen Scallions Hoisin sauce
Sliced
Kublai Khan made Beijing the cucumber
capital in 1271 and brought A whole Peking duck with traditional accompaniments
simple Mongolian influences
to the northern Chinese cuisine
– lamb, roasting, and the hot
pot. Prior to that, the national
capitals had been centered
around the Yellow River valley
in Xi’an, Luoyang, or Kaifeng.
Elaborate preparation and
expensive ingredients – shark’s
fin, bird’s nest soup, and

Regional Dishes and Specialties Mu Shu Pork: stir-fried tiger lily
buds, scrambled egg, black
Peking duck – an Imperial meal – must be the fungus, and shredded pork –
best known dish in north Chinese cuisine. The eaten with pancakes.
duck, a local Beijing variety, is carefully dried, and

then brushed with a sweet marinade before
being roasted over fragrant woodchips.
Finally it is carved by the chef and eaten
wrapped in pancakes with a special duck
sauce, slivered scallions, and cucumbers.
To accompany the duck, diners might also be
Duck pears – like served duck liver pâté, and duck soup to finish.
a duck’s head Another specialty of the region is Mongolian
Hotpot; a simple one-pot dish which suited the
nomadic way of life. Other regional specialties are made with local
resources – carp from the Yellow River, king prawns and yellow
croakers from the coast of Shandong, and not forgetting the
aromatics – garlic, leeks, and scallions.

INTRODUCING BEIJING & THE NORTH 83

that the iron wok originated Some of the wide variety of foods on display at a night food market
here as well. Shandong cuisine
is popular in Beijing. As one of Russian and Japanese On the Menu
the most important agricultural influences. Hence you will find
areas of China, Shandong a large number of beef and Drunken Empress Chicken
supplies Beijing with most of its lamb dishes here, and the city Supposedly named after Yang
food; its main crops are wheat, is famous for its dumplings. Guifei, an imperial concubine
barley, sorghum, millet, and overly fond of her alcohol.
corn as well as soybeans and Mongolian &
peanuts. Additionally, fisheries Muslim Cuisine Stir-fried Kidney-flowers
are widely developed along These are actually pork kidneys
the Yellow River and the north The Chinese Muslim school of criss-cross cut into “flowers”
China coast, particularly around cooking derives mainly from and stir-fried with bamboo
the rocky Shandong peninsula the Hui, the Uighur, and the shoots, water chestnuts,
where the specialties are fish, Mongolian minorities. The Hui and black fungus.
prawns, shellfish, abalones, are distributed throughout
sea slugs, and sea urchins. China, but their traditional area Fish Slices with Wine Sauce
Fruits are also a Shandong of settlement is in the north. Deep-fried fish fillet braised in a
specialty, and wines and beers The Uighur are mainly in the wine sauce.
– especially the famous northwest, while the Mongols
Tsingtao beer (see p152) – are traditionally nomadic and Phoenix-tail Prawns King
are exported worldwide. spread throughout the north. prawn tails coated in batter and
As Muslims they do not eat bread crumbs, then deep-fried.
The art of pouring tea, shown pork, so beef, lamb, and
in a Beijing restaurant mutton cooked on skewers are Lamb in Sweet Bean Sauce
important foods in their daily Tender fillet of lamb sliced and
Tianjin diet. Hand-made noodles and cooked in sweet bean paste with
flat breads also feature. vinegar to give it that classic
One of the largest cities in sweet and sour taste.
China, Tianjin occupies a rather
unique position in Chinese Hot Candied Apples A popular
cuisine. As a treaty port, Tianjin Chinese dessert.
has acquired a cosmopolitan
nature in many aspects of its
daily life, particularly showing

Lamb & Scallions: sliced lamb Mongolian Hotpot: thinly Sweet & Sour Carp: the
rapidly stir-fried with garlic, sliced lamb, vegetables, and quintessential Shandong dish
leeks or scallions, and sweet noodles dipped in boiling water traditionally made with Yellow
bean paste. and an array of sauces. River carp.



BEIJING & THE NORTH 85

BEIJING

The capital of the People’s Republic of China is one
of the world’s largest cities with a population of around
20 million. Beijing first became an imperial capital
during the Mongol Yuan dynasty (1279–1368), and
both the Ming and Qing emperors ruled from the
Forbidden City at its heart. Today, an all-pervading spirit
of change has added an exciting new dimension to the city.

Expanding in concentric rings from a bustling mix of affluent shoppers, trendy
the Forbidden City at its core, the grid-like youths, beggars, and plain-clothes police.
layout of modern-day Beijing still echoes Shopping is a popular pastime for middle-
its Ming dynasty blueprint. Old Beijing class Beijingers, and the capital now offers
survives in its temples, palaces, and old some of the glitziest malls and most
alleyways (hutong) that crisscross the city fashionable brand stores in Asia. Bars and
outside the second ring road, which itself cafés proliferate, and entertainment
charts the loop of the demolished City options range from traditional Beijing
Wall. Within this ancient outline are huge opera and spectacular acrobatics to
avenues, vaulting flyovers, towering modern jazz and even raucous punk clubs.
skyscrapers, shopping malls, and the vast And in the capital’s many restaurants,
expanse of Tian’an Men Square. The city China’s diverse cuisine can be sampled
that the 13th-century Mongol warlord across its range – from the fierce spices
Genghis Khan once put to the torch is of Sichuan to the dainty morsels of
undergoing a new, dramatic facelift, as Cantonese dim sum. On the roads, the
a result of a culmination of a quarter- city’s army of bicycles may be under
century of reform, the pressures of a pressure from the huge influx of new cars
growing population, and the 2008 and, indeed, are banned on the main
Olympics. Beijing is a microcosm of roads, but for the time being pedal power
modern China and all its contradictions, is still one of the best ways to get around.

Pleasure cruise on Kunming Lake, Summer Palace
The Long Corridor, in Beijing’s Beihai Park

86 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Exploring Beijing XUEYUAN NAN LU

Beijing’s most significant sights and districts are SIDAOKOU LUDAHUISI LU
marked on this map. At the core is the Forbidden DALIUSHU LU
City, with Tian’an Men Square and Qian Men XISANHUAN BEI LU XUEYUAN NAN LU GAOLIANGQIAO XIE JIE
to the south, and the shopping district of ZHONNAGNGDUAAJNIECUN
Wangfujing to its east. North of the Forbidden MINZU ZIZHUYUAN LU Beijing North
City stand the Drum and Bell Towers and farther
northeast is the Buddhist Lama Temple. North BEIJING Train Station
of Beihai Park, the Mansion of Prince Gong
stands in a historic hutong quarter, the old ZOO
alleyways that riddle the city. To the south, XIZHI MEN WAI DAJIE
Tian Tan, known as the Temple of Heaven, Xizhi Men
is a majestic example of Ming dynasty design.
Beijing’s environs are also dotted with sites WAI Beijing Bus Terminal
including the magnificent Great Wall and JIE Zoo
the scenic Ming Tombs. XIZHINMAENN ZHANLANGUAN LU
BEILISHI LU
Greater Beijing CHEGONG ZHUANG XI DAJIE CHEGONG ZHUANG DAJIE

BAIWAN ZHUANG DAJIE

FUCHENG LU FUCHENG MEN WAI DAJIE

YUYUAN TAN PARK SANLIHE LU YUETAN BEI JIE

Yuyuan Tan Y U E TA N NAN JIESANLIHE DONGLU
YUETAN
(SONG XI JIE
QINGLING
CHILDREN'S NANLISHI LU
SCIENCE PARK)

Junshi Bowuguan Muxidi Nanlishi
FUXING LU Lu
Miyun
Hu FUXING MEN
WAI DAJIE

Miyun XIWBIAIANDAJMIEEN
Huairou
Changping LIANHUACHI XIBIAN MEN NEI
BEIJING SHI DONG LU DAJIE
SHOUPAKOU BEI JIE
Beijing
International Airport

Mentougou Tongxian H E B E I GUANG'AN

Liangxiang 0 km 20 20
Daxing
0 miles
Tianjin

Sights at a Glance Museums & Galleries k Miaoying Temple White Dagoba
c Great Bell Temple
Historic Buildings, Sites & 2 National Museum of China . Tanzhe Temple
Neighborhoods 5 Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall
1 Tian’an Men Square pp88–9 u National Art Museum of China Shops & Markets
3 Qian Men p Southeast Corner Watchtower i Wangfujing Street
4 Underground City a Beijing Natural History Museum
6 Dazhalan & Liulichang d Beijing Capital Museum Parks & Zoos
8 Forbidden City pp92–5 j Military Museum of the 9 Jing Shan Park
q Prince Gong’s Mansion 0 Bei Hai Park
w Drum & Bell Towers Chinese People’s Revolution t Di Tan Park
o Ancient Observatory l Beijing Zoo
z Summer Palace pp106–8 Temples, Churches & Mosques v Xiang Shan Park
x Yuanming Yuan
b Ming Tombs pp110–11 7 South Cathedral
n Great Wall of China pp112–15 e Lama Temple
m Eastern Qing Tombs r Confucius Temple
, Marco Polo Bridge y Dong Yue Miao
/ Peking Man Site s Temple of Heaven pp102–3
! National Olympic Stadium f Cow Street Mosque
@ Chuandixia g Fayuan Temple
h White Clouds Temple

BEIJING 87

D XIZHI MEN BEI DAJIE WENHUIYUAN LU XINJIEKOU BEI DAJIE DI TAN E PINGLI XI JIE
PARK
Jishuitan Anding
Men H

ANDING MEN Yonghe Gong
XI DAJIE
ESHENG MEN XI DAJIE DESHENG MEN ANDING MEN NEI DONG ZHI MEN DONG
DONG DAJIE Gulou DAJIE BEI XIAO JIE BE

Dajie

Hou
Hai
DESHENG MEN NEI DAJIE ZHI DI AMJIEENJ I U G U LO UBEI LUOGUGUOZIYONGHE GONG DAJIE
DAJIE XIANG JIAN
LIUYIN JIE
Beixinqiao Dong Zhi
Men
Xizhi XIZHI MEN NEI DAJIE XINJIEKOU GULOU DONG DAJIE Dong Zhi Men
Men Xing NAN DAJIE DONG ZHI MEN NEI DAJIE Bus Terminal
XIZHI MEN
NAN DAJIE Jie Kou DI'ANMEN WAI NAN LUOGU DONG ZHI MEN
DAJIE XIANG NAN DAJIE
XIZHI MEN Qian
NAN XIAO JIE GONGREN
Ping’Anli Hai DONG SI SHI SAN TIAO TIYUCHANG DONG LUDong Si
Zhangzi Zhong Lu Shi Tiao
TAIPING QIAO DAJIE DI'AN MEN XI DAJIE
PING'AN DAJIE XISI BEI DAJIE XIHUANGCHENGGEN DI'AN MEN ZHANGZI DONG SI SHI TIAO
Chegong BEI JIE DONG DAJIE ZHONG LU
Zhuang
XISHIKU DAJIE Bei Hai DONG SI DONG SI
FUCHENG MEN NEI BEI DAJIE LIU TIAO
DAJIE
Xi Si Chaoyang
Fucheng Men Men
Dong Si
JING SHANG
XI'AN MEN WENJIN JIE QIAN JIE WUSI DONG SI CHAOYANG MEN NEI CHAOYANG MEN
DAJIE DAJIE XI DAJIE DAJIE NAN DAJIE
XIDAN BEI DAJIE DONGDAN DONG SI
FUCHENG MEN WUDING DAJIE FENGSHENG BEI CHANG JIE BEI DAJIE NAN DAJIE CHAOYANG MEN RI TAN LU C HAOWAI S H I-
NAN DAJIE HUTONG HUTONG FUYOU JIE BEI CHIZI DAJIE NAN XIAO JIE CHANG JIE

JINRONE JIE Zhong WANGFUJING
DAJIE
Hai Dengshikou

PICAI HUTONG HLIUNTGOJNINGG JIN BAO JIE RI TAN
Lingjing PARK
TAIPING QIAO
Hutong Nan Hai Tian'an DONG ZONGBU GUANGHUA LU
Xidan Tian'an Men Dong HUTONG
FUXING MEN NEI Buses Men Xi
Fuxing DAJIE to Airport DONG CHANG'AN JIE Jianguo Men
Men
X I C HA N G ' A N Wangfujing Dongdan JIANGUO MEN NEI
J IE DAJIE
XUANWU MEN NAI DAJIE
XUAN XINWENHUA JIE XI RONGXIAN Qian Men Tour Beijing Zhan BEIJING ZHAN
Changchun Jie HUTONG Bus Station DONG JIE

WU MEN XI DAJIE Heping Bus Terminal

SHANGXIE JIE Men Q I A N M E N Qian Men Beijing
XI DAJIE QIAN MEN DONG Train Station
L AO QJIIAEN G G E N
Xuanwu QIAN MEN XIHEYAN JIE DAJIE Chongwen
MEN NEI DAJIE Men
Men

JIE XIANYUKOU JIE DOLONNGGXJINI EG- CHONGWEN MEN WAI DAJIE TIAN TAN DONG LU
DAZHALAN
Caishi QIAN MEN Ciqikou
Kou HD IAKJOI EU DAJIE ZHUSHIKOU DONG DAJIE

LUOMASHI HUFANG LU Z HU S
DAJIE XI
NIU JIE TIAN TAN LU 0 km
1

YONG'AN LU

YONGDING MEN NEI TIAN TAN 0 miles 1
DAJIE PARK
NANHENG NANHENG DONG JIE
XI JIE ZIXIN LU BEI WEI LU

Taoranting Tianqiao
Bus Terminal
YOU'AN MEN NEI DAJIE
BAIZHIFANG TAORANTING LU TAIPING JIE
DONG JIE

YOU'AN MEN Taoranting Tian Tan
Hu Dong Men

DONG BINHE LU YONGDING MEN DONG BINHE LU

Key Getting Around

Street-by-Street area: see pp88–9 A system of ring roads encircles the city
National highway center, and the best way to explore this
Major road area is by taxi, by subway, or by bicycle
Provincial border (see pp620–21). The bus service, though
Great Wall of China extensive, is generally slow and
overcrowded. Organized tours are another
option for a quick overview of the sights.
Most hotels and agencies operate tour
buses for visiting sights outside Beijing,
although hiring a taxi for the day allows
for greater flexibility.

For additional map symbols see back flap

88 BEIJING & THE NORTH

1 Street-by-Street: Tian’an Men Square

Tian’an Men Guangchang – the Square of the Gate of Heavenly Cyclists along Chang’an Jie
Peace – is a vast open concrete expanse at the heart of
modern Beijing. With Mao’s Mausoleum at its focal point, and
bordered by 1950s Communist-style buildings and ancient
gates from Beijing’s now leveled city walls, the square is
usually filled with visitors strolling about as kites flit overhead.
The square has also traditionally served as a stage for popular
demonstrations and is most indelibly associated with the
student protests of 1989 and their gory climax.

Great Hall of the People
Seat of the Chinese legislature, the vast
auditorium and banqueting halls are open for
part of the day except when the National
People’s Congress is in session.

QIAN

MEN

DAJIE

. Zhengyang Men
Along with the Arrow Tower this tower
formed a double gate known as the Qian
Men. It now houses a museum on the
history of Beijing.

The Arrow Tower or Jian Lou,
like Zhengyang Men, was first

built in the Ming dynasty.

. Mao’s Mausoleum
Flanked by revolutionary statues, the building

contains the embalmed body of Chairman
Mao. His casket, raised from its refrigerated
chamber, is on view mornings and afternoons.

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

BEIJING 89

. Tian’an Men BEIJING
Mao proclaimed the
founding of the People’s Tian’an Men
Republic of China on Square
October 1, 1949 from this
Ming dynasty gate, Locator Map
where his huge portrait See Beijing Street Finder Map 3

still remains.

0 meters 20
0 yards 20

JIE The national flag is
N raised at dawn and
´A lowered at dusk
G every day.
N
A
H
C

Bags, coats, and cameras China National Museum
must be left here before Built in 1959, this building was originally
visiting Mao’s Mausoleum. home to the Museum of Chinese History
and the Museum of the Revolution, now
merged. It reopened to great fanfare in
2011 after three years of renovation. The
halls also host exhibitions from other
world class museums.

Monument to the People’s Heroes
Erected in 1958, the granite monument is
decorated with bas-reliefs of episodes from
China’s revolutionary history and calligraphy
from Communist veterans Mao Zedong and
Zhou Enlai.

90 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Its museum has dioramas of the
old city walls, and photographs
of Beijing’s old streets.

P Zhengyang Men
Tel (010) 6522 9386. Open daily. &

4 Underground
City

62 Xi Damo Hutong. Map 4 D2. q
Qian Men. Tel (010) 6702 2657.
Closed to the public.

Zhengyang Men, Qian Men – part of Beijing’s central fortifications At the height of the Sino-Soviet

2 National Museum 3 Qian Men rift in the 1960s, Mao Zedong
gave orders to carve out a vast

of China Qian Men Dajie. Map 3 C2. q Qian network of bombproof tunnels
Men. Open 8:30am–3:30pm daily. & beneath Beijing. The resulting
Tian’an Men Square. Map 3 C2. q maze of tunnels was equipped
with weapons, hospitals, and

Tian’an Men Dong. Tel (010) 6511 large stocks of water and food.

9207. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. = Qian Men or the Front Gate The Underground City has

- ∑ chnmuseum.cn consists of two been open to

towers, the visitors in the past,

The National Museum of Zhengyang Men, but it is now closed

China reopened in 2011 after on the southern due to damaged

a three-year program of edge of Tian’an War Hospital sign, and blocked

renovation. Reported to be the Men Square, and Underground City tunnels.

largest museum in the world, the Jian Lou (Arrow

it now stands at more than Tower) just to the south. 5 Beijing Planning
Exhibition Hall
2 million sq ft (185,806 sq m), Zhengyang Men (Facing the

with 49 rooms holding around a Sun Gate) was the most

million cultural relics, including imposing of the nine gates of

the cowboy hat worn by Deng the inner city wall that divided 20 Qian Men Dong Dajie. Map 3 C2.
Xiaoping on a trip to the United Beijing’s imperial quarters in q Qian Men. Tel (010) 6701 7074.
States and other noteworthy the Forbidden City from the Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & -
artifacts. Two permanent “Chinese City,” where, during

exhibitions cover China’s the Manchu Qing dynasty, the This impressive museum, just

ancient history and from 1840 Chinese inhabitants lived. east of the historic Qian Men

to the present day, although the Rising 131 ft (40 m), the gate area, offers a glimpse into what

chaos of the Cultural Revolution stands on the north-south axis Beijing’s future has in store. The

is glossed over with just a that runs through the Tian’an highlight is a huge scale model

single photograph. Men and the Forbidden City. of what the city should look

Beijing’s City Walls

The earliest defensive walls around Beijing (then called Arrow Tower of Qian Men
Yanjing, later Zhongdu) were erected in the Jin dynasty
(1115–1234) and modeled on the wall around Kaifeng (see
p156). The Mongol Kublai Khan rebuilt Zhongdu, naming it
Dadu, and encompassed it with a 19-mile (30-km) wall. It was
only during the Ming era (1368–1644) that the walls took on
their final shape of an Outer Wall with seven gates, and an
Inner Wall with nine gates. The magnificent Inner Wall was 38
ft (11.5 m) high and 64 ft (19.5 m) wide. The walls and most of
their gates were unfortunately demolished in the 1950s and
60s to make way for roads. Of the inner wall, only Qian Men
and Desheng Men survive, while the outer wall retains only
Dongbian Men (see p101). The old gates live on as place
names on the second ring road, and as the names of stations
on the Beijing Underground Loop line.

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

BEIJING 91

Shop selling Communist memorabilia, Dazhalan Jie Xuanwu Men underground
station, on the site of Jesuit
like in 2020, complete with The area is a great place for Matteo Ricci’s former residence.
Ricci was the first Jesuit
a sound and light show. In browsing, and has several missionary to reach Beijing.
Arriving in 1601, he sent gifts
contrast, the museum also quaint Qing-era specialty shops. of European curiosities such
as clocks, mathematical
has models and historical Located down the first alley on instruments, and a world map
to the Wanli emperor, thus
photographs of old Beijing. the left from Dazhalan Jie is the gaining his goodwill, and was
eventually given permission
century-old pickle shop Liubiju, to establish a church.

6 Dazhalan & while Ruifuxiang, on the right- Like many of China’s churches,
Liulichang hand side of Dazhalan, is this restored building has
renowned for its silks and suffered much devastation.
Construction first began in
traditional Chinese garments. 1605, and it subsequently
burned down in 1775. It was
Map 3 C2. q Qian Men. On the south side of Dazhalan rebuilt a century later, only to be
Jie is the Chinese medicine destroyed once again during
the Boxer Rebellion of 1900. The
shop Tongrentang Pharmacy, cathedral was rebuilt in 1904.
Also known as St. Mary’s Church,
South of Qian Men are which has been in business it is the city’s largest functioning
Catholic cathedral, and has
the narrow and since 1669 and enjoyed regular services in a variety of
languages including Chinese,
lively hutongs (see imperial patronage. On the English, and Latin. Service
timings are posted on the
p97) of the old same side of the road, noticeboard. A small gift shop is
located near the south gate.
Chinese quarter. the Zhangyiyuan
Stained glass at the South Cathedral
The inner city wall Chazhuang or (Nan Tang)

and its gates Zhangyiyuan

separated the Teashop has been

“Inner City” supplying fine teas

containing the since the early

imperial quarters 20th century. West

of the Manchu of Dazhalan Jie is

emperors from Cyclists on restored Liulichang Jie Liulichang Jie, a

the “Chinese City,” fascinating place

where the to wander – it

Chinese lived apart from their has everything from ceramics to

Qing overlords. The district has antique Chinese books. Beware

been renovated to create a of so-called “antiques,” which

Qing dynasty appearance, should be judiciously examined

complete with a tourist tram. before buying.

Running west off the northern

end of Qian Men Dajie is

Dazhalan Jie, whose name “Big 7 South Cathedral

Barrier Street” refers to the

now-demolished gates that

were closed every night to 141 Qian Men Xi Dajie. Map 3 A2.
fence off the residents from q Xuanwu Men.

Qian Men and the Inner City.

There are hutong tours by The first Catholic church to be

rickshaw – drivers just wait built in Beijing, South Cathedral

in the street in Dazhalan. (Nan Tang) stands close to the

92 BEIJING & THE NORTH

8 Forbidden City

Forming the very heart of Beijing, the Forbidden City, Chinese Lions
officially known as the Palace Museum (Gugong), is Pairs of lions guard the entrances
China’s most magnificent architectural complex and was of halls. The male is portrayed
completed in 1420. The huge palace is a compendium of with a ball under his paw, while
imperial architecture and a lasting monument of dynastic the female has a lion cub.
China from which 24 emperors ruled for nearly 500 years.
The symbolic center of the Chinese universe, the palace
was the exclusive domain of the imperial court and
dignitaries until the abdication in 1912. It was opened
to the public in 1949.

. Golden Water
Five marble bridges,
symbolizing the five cardinal
virtues of Confucianism, cross
the Golden Water, which flows
from west to east in a course
designed to resemble the jade
belt worn by officials.

Outer Court

At the center of the
Forbidden City, the
Outer Court is easily
its most impressive
part. Most of the
other buildings in the
complex were there
to service this city
within a city.

Meridian Gate (Wu Men) Gate of Supreme Harmony
From the balcony the emperor would Originally used for receiving visitors, the 78-ft (24-m) high,
review his armies and perform double-eaved hall was later used for banquets during the
ceremonies marking the start of a Qing dynasty (1644–1912).
new calendar.

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

BEIJING 93

. Marble Carriageway VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The central ramp carved
with dragons chasing Practical Information
pearls among clouds was North of Tian’an Men Square.
reserved for the emperor. Map 1 C5. Tel (010) 8500 7421.
Open Apr–Oct: 8:30am–5pm
daily; Nov–Mar: 8:30am–4:30pm
daily. & = 8 9 -

Transport
∑ dpm.org.cn

Roof Guardians . Hall of Supreme Harmony
An odd number of these figures, all The largest hall in the palace, this was used for
associated with water, are supposed major occasions such as the enthronement of
to protect the building from fire. an emperor. Inside the hall, the ornate throne
sits beneath a fabulously colored ceiling.
KEY
Design by Numbers Palace door with a lucky
1 Offices of the imperial number of studs
secretariat The harmonious principle of yin and
2 Storehouses yang is the key to Chinese design.
3 Imperial sundial As odd numbers represent yang
4The Hall of Middle Harmony (the preferred masculine element
received the emperor before official associated with the emperor), the
ceremonies. numbers three, five, seven, and the
5 Bronze cauldrons were filled ultimate odd number – nine, recur in
with water in case of fire. architectural details. It is said that the
6 Hall of Preserving Harmony Forbidden City has 9,999 rooms and,
7 Gate of Heavenly Purity as nine times nine is especially
fortunate, the doors for imperial use
usually contain 81 brass studs.

94 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Exploring the Forbidden City halls as well as a rock garden
and ancient trees. On the west
A short distance north through the Gate of Heavenly Purity and east sides of the garden
lies the Inner Court with three impressive inner palaces. are the charming Thousand
Further on through the Imperial Flower Garden stands the Autumns Pavilion and Ten
Shenwu Gate, the north gate of the Forbidden City, an exit Thousand Springs Pavilion,
from the palace that leads to a walk across to Jing Shan Park each topped with a circular
(see p96). On the western and eastern flanks of the Inner roof. Positioned centrally in the
Court, it is also possible to explore numerous halls, some north of the garden, the Hall of
of which house museum collections (entry fee payable). Imperial Peace formerly served
as a temple, and, on top of the
lofty rockery in the northeast of
the garden, the Imperial View
Pavilion rises with long views
over the gardens and beyond.
During the Qing dynasty,
sacrifices were performed in
the gardens on the seventh
day of the seventh lunar
month (China’s equivalent
of Valentine’s Day) by the
emperor, empress, and imperial
concubines to a pair of stars
that represent lovers.

P Eastern Palaces

On the east side of the Inner

Court lies a much closer knit

The Pavilion of a Thousand Autumns in the Imperial Gardens series of smaller palaces and

courtyards formerly used as

P The Inner Court P The Imperial Gardens the residences of imperial

Beyond the Hall of Preserving The Imperial Flower Garden, concubines. Nowadays, some

Harmony (Outer Court) lies a north of the three inner palaces of these areas serve as museums

large but narrow courtyard with and the Gate of Earthly of jade, paintings, enamels, and

gates leading to the open areas Tranquillity, dates from the antique collectibles, including

east and west of the Outer reign of the Ming Yongle the impressive Clock Exhibition

Court and a main gate, the Gate emperor. It is symmetrically laid Hall (housed in the Palace of

of Heavenly Purity, leading to out with pavilions, temples, and Eternal Harmony) with its

the Inner Court. Here lie three

splendid palaces, mirroring

those of the Outer Court but

on a smaller scale. The double-

eaved Palace of Heavenly

Purity was used as the imperial

sleeping quarters and for the

reception of officials. It was here

that the last Ming emperor,

Chongzhen, wrote his final

missive in red ink, before

getting drunk, killing his

15-year-old daughter and his

concubines, and then hanging Imperial five-clawed dragons on a glazed Nine Dragon Screen

himself on Jing Shan (see p96),

just north of the palace, as Chinese Dragons

peasant rebels swarmed The Chinese dragon is a curious hybrid of sometimes many animal
through the capital. Beyond lie parts – snake’s body, deer horns, bull’s ears, hawk’s claws and fish
the Hall of Union, used as a scales. Endowed with magical characteristics, it can fly, swim, change
throne room by the empress, into other animals, bring rainfall and ward off evil spirits. The five-clawed
and the Palace of Earthly dragon represented the power of the emperor, and therefore could
Tranquillity, the living quarters only adorn his imperial buildings. The Chinese dragon is a beneficent

of the Ming empresses. During beast offering protection and good luck, hence its depiction on

the Qing dynasty, the hall was screens and marble carriageways, and its significance, even today,

used for Manchurian shaman in festivals such as Chinese New Year.

rites, including animal sacrifice.

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

BEIJING 95

The Forbidden City

1 Gate of Heavenly Purity
2 Palace of Heavenly Purity
3 Hall of Union
4 Palace of Earthly Tranquillity
5 Imperial Flower Garden
6 Hall of Imperial Peace
7 Palace of Eternal Harmony
8 Palace of Abstinence
9 Nine Dragon Screen
0 Imperial Zenith Hall
q Palace of Peaceful Longevity
w Hall of Mental Cultivation
e Arrow Tower
r Gate of Divine Prowess

0 meters 300

Key 0 yards 300

Imperial buildings
Area illustrated (see pp92–3)

sizeable and fascinating display. P Western Palaces P The Palace Walls

Note that these are occasionally Much of the western flank of The wall around the Forbidden

moved to other halls and at the Forbidden City is closed to City is marked at each corner by

some an entry fee is payable. visitors, but the halls west of an elaborate Arrow Tower,

Among the collection are the three inner palaces notable for its many eaves. The

elaborate Chinese, are accessible. The northern gate of the palace is

British, and French Hall of Mental called the Gate of Divine Prowess

timepieces, Cultivation or Shenwu Men, and served as a

donated or was used by combined bell and drum tower.

collected by Qing Yongzheng The palace wall was enclosed

emperors. In the (see p115) for his within a moat and another wall

southeast of the inner residence, rather ran around the grounds of the

court is the Palace than the Hall of Imperial City. Beyond this lay the

of Abstinence, Tile relief by the Hall of Heavenly Purity, inner and outer city walls of

where the emperor Mental Cultivation where his father, Beijing. Damaged in the 1950s

fasted before Kangxi, had lived and 1960s, only a few parts of

sacrificial ceremonies. for 60 years. The East Warm the Imperial City wall survive,

Further southeast stands a Chamber of the Hall of Mental while the city walls have all but

beautiful Nine Dragon Screen, Cultivation was the site of the vanished. However, the wall of

a 100-ft (31-m) long spirit wall formal abdication by Henry Pu the Forbidden City and its four

made from richly glazed tiles Yi, the last emperor, on February gates have survived intact and

and similar to the screen in 12, 1912 (see p452). can still be admired.

Beihai Park (see p96). Screens

were used to shield areas from

sight and allow visitors to make

themselves presentable. The

screen leads on to the jewelry

displays housed in a series of

halls in the northeast of the

complex, including the

Imperial Zenith Hall and the

Palace of Peaceful Longevity.

These halls contain an array of

decorative objects and tools

used by the emperor.

Northwest of the Palace of

Peaceful Longevity is its flower

garden, a tranquil strip of

rockeries and pavilions. One of four arrow towers at each corner of the palace wall

96 BEIJING & THE NORTH

an 89-ft (27-m) long spirit wall
made of colorful glazed tiles.
Depicting nine intertwining
dragons, it was designed to
obstruct evil spirits. The Xiao-
xitian Temple lies to the west.

q Prince Gong’s
Mansion

Bei Hai with Jing Shan’s summit in the background 17 Qianhai Xi Jie, Xicheng. Map 1 B3.
q Gulou. Tel (010) 8328 8149.
9 Jing Shan Park dotted with several pavilions Open 8:30am–4:30pm daily. &
and halls, but the highlight of ∑ pgm.org.cn
44 Jingshan Xi Jie, Xicheng. Map 1 C4. any visit is the superb view Beijing’s most complete
q Dong Si. Tel (010) 6404 4071. of the Forbidden City from example of a historic mansion is
Open 6:30am–7:30pm daily. & the hill’s Wanchun Ting situated in a charming hutong
(Wanchun Pavilion). district west of Qian Hai. It was
supposedly the inspiration
Situated on Beijing’s north- 0 Bei Hai Park behind the residence portrayed
south axis, Jing Shan Park has by Cao Xueqin in his classic
18th-century novel Dream of
its origins in the Yuan dynasty the Red Chamber (see pp34–5).
Built during the reign of the
(1279–1368). Its hill was created 1 Wenjin Jie, Xicheng. Map 1 C4. q Qianlong emperor, the house
from earth that was excavated Tian’an Men Xi. Tel (010) 6403 1102. is extensive and its charming
while building the palace moat Open 6am–8pm daily. & - garden is a pattern of open
during the reign of the Ming corridors and pavilions, dotted
with pools and gateways.
Yongle emperor. In the early Originally built for Heshun,
a Manchu official and the
years of the Ming dynasty it An imperial garden for more emperor’s favorite, the
residence was appropriated by
was known as Wansui Shan than 1,000 years, Bei Hai Park the imperial household after he
was found guilty of using regal
(Long Life Hill), but was was opened to the public in motifs in his mansion design. It
was later bequeathed to Prince
renamed Jing Shan (View or 1925. Filled with artificial hills, Gong in the Xianfeng emperor’s
reign (r.1851–61). The house
Prospect Hill) in the Qing pavilions, and temples, it is popular with tour groups,
so early morning is the best
era. Foreign residents also is associated with Kublai time to visit and afterwards, the
local hutongs can be explored.
referred to it as Coal Hill Khan, who redesigned Beijing Opera is performed in
its Grand Opera House.
(Mei Shan), supposedly it during the Mongol
Elaborate arched gateway,
because coal was Yuan dynasty. The Prince Gong’s Mansion

stored at the foot of Tuancheng (Round

the hill although other City), near the south

theories exist. entrance, has a huge,

Until the fall of White Dagoba, decorated jade urn

the Qing, Jing Shan Bei Hai Park belonging to him. The

was linked to the park is named after its

Forbidden City and was extensive lake, Bei Hai, whose

restricted to imperial use. The southern end is bordered by

hill’s purpose was to protect the inaccessible Zhong Nan

the imperial palaces within the Hai, the Communist Party

Forbidden City from malign Headquarters. In the middle

northern influences, which of Bei Hai, Jade Island was

brought death and destruction supposedly made from the

according to classical feng shui. earth excavated while creating

However, it failed to save the the lake. It is topped by the

last Ming emperor Chongzhen, 118-ft (36-m) high White

who hanged himself from a Dagoba, a Tibetan-style stupa

locust tree (huaishu) in the built to honor the visit of the

park in 1644, when rebel fifth Dalai Lama in 1651. Beneath

troops forced their way into the huge dagoba, Yongan Si

Beijing. Another tree, planted comprises a series of ascending

after the original tree was cut halls. The lake’s northern shore

down, marks the spot in the has several sights, including the

park’s southeast. The park is massive Nine Dragon Screen,

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85

BEIJING 97

Beijing’s Courtyard Houses

At first glance, Beijing seems a thoroughly modern city, but a stroll through the city’s
alleyways (hutong) reveals the charm of old Beijing. These hutong – weaving across much
of central Beijing – are where many Beijing residents (Beijingren) still live. Typically
running east to west, hutong are created by the walls of courtyard houses (siheyuan).
Formerly the homes of officials and the well-to-do, many were taken over by the state
but they are now increasingly privately owned. The hutong are very easy to find, try the
alleyways between the main streets south of Qian Men, or around Hou Hai and Qian Hai.
The modernization of Beijing has destroyed many traditional siheyuan, but a few have
been converted into hotels, allowing the visitor a closer look at this disappearing world.

The main hall was the Crowded courtyards As space
most northerly and usually became an issue in Beijing, additional
reserved for the eldest of buildings filled in the large courtyards.
the family, such as the Several families may be living together
grandparents.
in one siheyuan.

Wall adds privacy and
keeps out spirits as
they are unable to
turn corners.

The open Entrance is at the
courtyard lets southeastern corner as
in both the prescribed by feng shui.
sunlight and the
wind and cold. Social housing With
several families living
The number of halls and
courtyards determines the together, a strong
grandeur of the residence. community spirit is
fostered, while the hutong
Walls were important to the outside becomes an
Chinese psyche – even in the extension of the home.
secure capital, they felt the need
to retreat behind them. Typical Beijing hutong
You can take organized rickshaw tours of the
hutong, sometimes with a visit to Prince Gong’s
Mansion (see p96), but it can be more fun to explore
them by yourself.

98 BEIJING & THE NORTH

e Lama Temple

12 Yonghe Gong Dajie, Dongcheng.
Map 2 E2. q Yonghe Gong. Tel (010)
6404 3769. Open 9am–4pm daily. &

A view of the Bell Tower from Beijing’s Drum Tower Beijing’s most spectacular
temple complex, the Lama
w Drum & Bell the 25 drums there. The one Temple (Yonghegong) was
Towers large and 24 smaller drums constructed during the 17th
were beaten to mark the hours century and converted into
Northern end of Di’an Men Wai Dajie, of the day. According to the a Tibetan lamasery in 1744. Its
Dongcheng. Map 1 C2. q Gulou. official Chinese accounts, the five main halls are a stylistic
Tel (010) 8402 7869. Open 9am–5pm original drums were destroyed blend of Han, Mongol, and
daily. & by the foreign soldiers of the Tibetan motifs. The first hall
international army that relieved has a traditional display – the
Located on the north-south Beijing during the Boxer plump laughing Buddha, Milefo,
meridian that bisects the Rebellion (see p439). is back-to-back with Wei Tuo,
Forbidden City and Tian’an Men the Protector of Buddhist
Square, the Drum Tower (Gu A short walk north of the Doctrine, and flanked by the
Lou) rises up from a historic Drum Tower, the Bell Tower Four Heavenly Kings. Yonghe
Beijing hutong district (see p97). (Zhong Lou) is an edifice from Hall beyond has three
The squat structure seen today 1745, which replaced an manifestations of Buddha,
was originally built in 1420 earlier tower that had burnt flanked by 18 luohan – those
during the reign of the Ming down. Suspended within the freed from the cycle of rebirth.
Yongle emperor. Visitors can tower is a 15-ft (4.5-m) high Even farther back, the Tibetan-
climb the steep stairs to look and 42-ton (42,674-kg) bell, styled Falun Hall or Hall of the
out over the city and inspect that was cast in 1420. Visitors Wheel of Law has a statue of
can pay to ring the bell for Tsongkhapa, the founder of the
good luck. Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan
Buddhism (see pp526–7).

The highlight, however, is
encapsulated within the
towering Wanfu Pavilion
(Wanfu Ge) – a vast 55-ft (17-m)
high statue of Maitreya (the
Future Buddha), carved from a
single block of sandalwood.

The striking main gateway of the colorful Lama Temple
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85