(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

The curved Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia, Belém



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EXPLORE CAMPO PEQUENO
CAMPO PEQUENO
LISBON Fundação Fundação

Calouste Calouste
Museu Calouste
Palácio Palácio
Museu Calouste
Gulbenkian Gulbenkian
Gulbenkian Gulbenkian
FronteiraFronteira
ALTO DO ALTO DO
PRAÇA DO
This section divides Lisbon into four Centro de Centro de SALDANHA PRAÇA DO PINA PINA
CHILE CHILE
Parque Florestal
Arte Moderna
sightseeing areas, as shown below, and Parque Florestal Arte Moderna SALDANHA
de Monsanto
an area beyond the city. Find out more de Monsanto
about each area on the following pages. Aqueduto das Estufa Estufa
Aqueduto das
Águas Livres
Águas Livres Fría Fría
CAMPOLIDE
CAMPOLIDE
Parque Parque
E
Eduardo VII duardo VII
BAIRROBAIRRO
AMOREIRAS
AMOREIRAS LOPES LOPES
CAMPO DE AVENIDA DE LIBERDADE
CAMPO DE
OURIQUE
OURIQUE
Jardin Jardin
AVENIDA DE LIBERDADE
BotânicoBotânico
RATO RATO BAIXA AND GRAÇA GRAÇA
BAIXA AND
AVENIDA
AVENIDA
CASELAS
CASELAS p74 p74
BAIRRO BAIRRO
ALTO ALTO
Palácio de Palácio de Santa Santa
Engrácia Engrácia
Parque da Parque da Cemitério dos ério dos São Bento São Roque São Roque
São Bento
Cemit
CARAMÃO
São JorgeSão Jorge
CARAMÃO Tapada Tapada Prazeres Prazeres Basílica Basílica Castelo de Castelo de Museu Museu
Militar
da
BAIRROBAIRRO da da Estrela da Estrela Igreja do Igreja do Militar
Carmo
Carmo
DA AJUDA Ajuda Ajuda Elevador Elevador BAIXA BAIXA Sé ALFAMA ALFAMA
DA AJUDA
Sé
da Bica da Bica
ESTRELA ESTRELA BAIRRO ALTO p60 p60
BAIRRO ALTO
ALTO DA ALTO DA AND ESTRELATRELA CHIADO CHIADO
AND ES
AJUDAAJUDA LAPA LAPA p88 p88 COMÉRCIO COMÉRCIO
PRAÇA DO PRAÇA DO
Cais do Sodré
Cais do Sodré
Palácio Palácio Museu Nacional
Nacional Nacional
Jardim Jardim Museu Nacional
de Arte Antiga
de Arte Antiga
da Ajuda da Ajuda
Botanico de
RESTELO
RESTELO Botanico de Ajuda
Ajuda
Igreja da Igreja da AJUDA AJUDA Fundação Fundação
Oriente Oriente
Memória Memória SANTO SANTO Museu
AMARO AMARO Museu Tejo ( Tagus) Tagus)
Tejo (
ALCÂNTARA
Ermida de Ermida de BELÉMBELÉM ALCÂNTARA
São Jerónimo
São Jerónimo BELÉM BELÉM
Mosteiro Mosteiro p104 p104
dos Jerónimos
dos Jerónimos
Museu daMuseu da Museu Nacional
Museu Nacional
Marinha Marinha dos Coches dos Coches
MAAT – Museu de Art,
MAAT – Museu de Art,
Centro Cultural
Centro Cultural Arquitetura e Tecnologia
Arquitetura e Tecnologia
de Belémde Belém
Padrão dos Padrão dos
Descobrimentos
Descobrimentos
Torre de Torre de
Belém Belém
Ponte 25 de Abril
Ponte 25 de Abril
Tejo (
Tejo ( Tagus) Tagus)
CACILHAS
CACILHAS
ARIALVA ARIALVA
0 metres0 metres 800 N 800 N
0 yards 0 yards 800 800
ALMADA ALMADA
PORTO BRANDÃO
PORTO BRANDÃO
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CAMPO PEQUENO
CAMPO PEQUENO

Fundação Fundação
Calouste Calouste
Museu Calouste
Palácio Palácio Gulbenkian Gulbenkian Museu Calouste
FronteiraFronteira Gulbenkian Gulbenkian
ALTO DO ALTO DO
PRAÇA DO PINA PINA
PRAÇA DO
Centro de Centro de SALDANHA CHILE CHILE
Parque Florestal
Arte Moderna
Parque Florestal Arte Moderna SALDANHA
de Monsanto
de Monsanto
Aqueduto das
Aqueduto das Estufa Estufa
Águas Livres Fría Fría
Águas Livres
CAMPOLIDE
CAMPOLIDE
Parque Parque
E
Eduardo VII duardo VII
BAIRROBAIRRO
AMOREIRAS
AMOREIRAS LOPES LOPES
CAMPO DE
CAMPO DE AVENIDA DE LIBERDADE
OURIQUE
OURIQUE
Jardin Jardin
AVENIDA DE LIBERDADE
BotânicoBotânico
RATO RATO BAIXA AND GRAÇA GRAÇA
BAIXA AND
AVENIDA
AVENIDA
CASELAS
CASELAS p74 p74
BAIRRO BAIRRO
ALTO ALTO
Palácio de Palácio de Santa Santa
Engrácia Engrácia
Parque da Parque da Cemitério dos ério dos São Bento São Roque São Roque
São Bento
Cemit
CARAMÃO
CARAMÃO Tapada Tapada Prazeres Prazeres Basílica Basílica Castelo de Castelo de Museu Museu
São JorgeSão Jorge
Militar
da
BAIRROBAIRRO da da Estrela da Estrela Igreja do Igreja do Militar
Carmo
Carmo
DA AJUDA Ajuda Ajuda Elevador Elevador BAIXA BAIXA Sé ALFAMA ALFAMA
DA AJUDA
da Bica da Bica
Sé
ESTRELA ESTRELA BAIRRO ALTO p60 p60
BAIRRO ALTO
ALTO DA ALTO DA AND ESTRELATRELA CHIADO CHIADO
AND ES
AJUDAAJUDA LAPA LAPA p88 p88 PRAÇA DO PRAÇA DO
COMÉRCIO COMÉRCIO
Cais do Sodré
Cais do Sodré
Palácio Palácio Museu Nacional
Nacional Nacional
Jardim Jardim Museu Nacional
de Arte Antiga
de Arte Antiga
da Ajuda da Ajuda
Botanico de
RESTELO
RESTELO Botanico de Ajuda
Ajuda
Igreja da Igreja da AJUDA AJUDA Fundação Fundação
Oriente Oriente
Memória Memória SANTO SANTO Museu
AMARO AMARO Museu Tejo ( Tagus) Tagus)
Tejo (
ALCÂNTARA
Ermida de Ermida de BELÉMBELÉM ALCÂNTARA
São Jerónimo
São Jerónimo BELÉM BELÉM
Mosteiro Mosteiro p104 p104
dos Jerónimos
dos Jerónimos
Museu Nacional
Museu daMuseu da Museu Nacional
Marinha Marinha dos Coches dos Coches
MAAT – Museu de Art,
MAAT – Museu de Art, WESTERN EUROPE
Centro Cultural
Centro Cultural Arquitetura e Tecnologia
Arquitetura e Tecnologia
de Belémde Belém
Padrão dos Padrão dos
Descobrimentos
Descobrimentos
Torre de Torre de FRANCE
Belém Belém Atlantic
Ocean
Ponte 25 de Abril
Ponte 25 de Abril
Tejo (
Tejo ( Tagus) Tagus)
CACILHAS
CACILHAS
Porto
ARIALVA ARIALVA PORTUGAL SPAIN
0 metres0 metres 800 N 800 N LISBON Mediterranean
Sea
0 yards 0 yards 800 800
ALMADA ALMADA Faro
ALGERIA
PORTO BRANDÃO
PORTO BRANDÃO
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GETTING TO KNOW
LISBON





EXXPERIENCE Getting to Know Lisbon the 21st century with a vengeance; across the city, tradition jostles with
One of Europe’s oldest and most attractive capitals, Lisbon has arrived into

cutting-edge architecture, a thumping nightlife and innovative restaurants.
Some familiarity with each district will help when planning your trip.




































ALFAMA Best for
Getting lost amid winding
PAGE 60 Lisbon’s oldest district, the labyrinthine Alfama alleys and drinking in
tumbles downhill towards the river, hiding tiny bars,
the city’s atmosphere
secret squares and a traditional way of life amid
its narrow streets. This is the birthplace of fado, Home to
The towering Castelo
Portugal’s mournful style of music, and the neighbour­ de São Jorge
hood still hosts the Feira a Ladra, an authentic, Experience
twice­weekly street market packed with everything Great views from the dome of
from postcards to antiques. Some of Lisbon’s best Santa Engrácia, or an evening
viewpoints can also be found in the Alfama, with both of music at a fado house
the castle’s ramparts and the Miradouro de Santa Luzia
offering sweeping panoramas over the rest of the city.


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BAIXA AND AVENIDA Best for
Shopping and grand squares
PAGE 74 The Baixa (lower town) is the heart of the city, Home to
comprising a grid of streets dotted with shops, cafés
The quirky Elevador de Santa
and boutiques, and culminating in the wide, waterfront
Praça do Comércio. Running through the centre of Justa and the Praça do Comércio
Experience
the district is the pedestrianized Rua Augusta, where Coffee and cakes at the
throngs of visitors and locals alike gather to shop, Confeitaria Nacional, one
graze and gossip. Also in this area is the imposing of Lisbon’s historic cafés
Avenida da Liberdade, a wide avenue lined with
Art Deco buildings that stretches all the way to
Parque Eduardo VII.



BAIRRO ALTO
PAGE 88 AND ESTRELA
The Bairro Alto is Lisbon’s nightlife
district. By day it’s relatively tranquil,
but at night the neighbourhood comes
alive with restaurants, cafés and bars
that spill revellers out into the streets
until the early hours. In Cais do Sodré
you’ll find the literally named Pink
Street: once Lisbon’s red light district,
but now populated with stylish cocktail
bars and clubs. The area offers culture,
too, from Estrela’s grand domed basilica
to the impressive Museu Nacional de
Arte Antiga in Lapa, home of Portugal’s
national art collection.
Best for
Lively restaurants and late-night bars
Home to
The Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga
Experience
Some of Lisbon’s finest street food –
from traditional to experimental – at
the Time Out Market




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EXPERIENCE Getting to Know Lisbon









































BELÉM Best for
Awe-inspiring architecture
PAGE 104 Once the embarkation point for Portugal’s Home to
intrepid seafaring explorers, this scenic waterfront
The ornate Mosteiro dos
suburb is perhaps best known for its dramatic
Manueline monuments from that period. Belém Jerónimos and the Torre
de Belém
also features more modern attractions – such as Experience
the Berardo Collection of contemporary art and A pastel de nata fresh out
the imposing Padrão dos Descobrimentos – which of the ovens at the original
combine with the neighbour hood’s spacious Belém bakery
streets and well-maintained, leafy parks to make
it a pleasant place to wander.


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BEYOND Best for
Wide parks and a break from
PAGE 120 THE CENTRE the city’s bustle
Home to
Outside the city centre, there are still an impressive
number of sights to be found. Parque Eduardo VII, with
and the colourful Museu
its sharply edged hedges and expansive miradouro, is a The Museu Calouste Gulbenkian
welcome green space for visitors to Lisbon, while the Nacional do Azulejo
astounding collections of the nearby Museu Calouste Experience
Gulbenkian make for a rewarding visit. The brick-red Panoramic vistas from
Ponte 25 de Abril also stands in this area, stretching the viewing platform
dramatically to the opposite bank of the Tagus, where atop the Ponte 25 de Abril
the Christo Rei monument towers above the city.


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EXPERIENCE A Lisbon Itinerary




















1










2











3



1 Torre de Belém.
2 Museu Calouste
Gulbenkian.
3 Perfectly baked pastéis
de nata.
4 4 PARK bar, Bairro Alto.
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2 DAYS







Day 1 Day 2
Morning Start your day with breakfast Morning Aim for a bright and early
at one of the cafés on Praça da Figueira start in order to make the most of
(p84) or neighbouring Rossio (p83) – Belém, one of Lisbon’s prettiest suburbs.
Confeitaria Nacional (www.confeitaria Take a short tram ride or the train along
nacional.com) has a great pastry selec tion. the waterfront, and head first to the
Once fully fuelled, wander through the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (p108). This
Baixa’s pedestrian ized streets to the elaborately decorated monastery
quirky, Gothic-style Elevador de Santa demands at least an hour or two to
Justa (p80). Take the lift up to the hilltop explore properly – the refectory’s azulejo
Museu do Carmo (p96), an archaeological panels and the cloister are particularly
museum housed in a Carmelite church, spectacular. Next, cross through the
whose graceful ruined arches stand out gardens to the towering 52-m- (170-ft-)
against the city skyline. Spend an hour or high Padrão dos Descobrimentos, and
two browsing the boutique collection, take the high-speed lift to the top for great
before heading through the elegant views over the monastery and the river.
Chiado district towards the waterfront. Afternoon Nearby, the colourful Rua Viera
Afternoon Here, the Time Out Market Portuense is home to a number of excel-
(p101) in Cais do Sodré is a great place for lent restaurants where you can lunch at
a pick-and-mix lunch. The selection on outdoor tables. Skip pudding here and
offer is huge – just pick your stall, choose cross the road to the Antiga Confeitaria
a dish and snag a seat at one of the huge de Belém bakery (p115) – for where better
communal tables. After lunch, hop on the to sample Portugal’s iconic tarts than the
metro to the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian café in which they were first created? Walk
(p122), where exploring the sprawling off your sweet treat along the water front
collection of artworks will quickly eat up to reach the Torre de Belém (p110), worth
the rest of your afternoon. a visit to admire its intricate stonework.
Evening Head back towards the city Evening Next, take a look round the
centre and spend the evening in the lively impressive Museu Colecção Berardo (p115),
bars and restaurants of Bairro Alto. Grab where the modern art on display includes
a table at PARK (Calçada do Combro 58, pieces by the likes of Dalí, Picasso and
above the car park) to make the most of Andy Warhol. End your evening in
Lisbon’s stunning skyline. This rooftop bar Enoteca de Belém, a tiny wine bar tucked
overlooks the river, with tasty burgers on down Travessa Marta Pinto with deli cious
the menu and a strong line in cocktails. seafood options and a vast wine list.
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A cheerful yellow tram winding its way through Alfama’s narrow streets


































ALFAMA



It is difficult to believe that humble Alfama,
the oldest and most atmospheric of Lisbon’s
neighbourhoods, was once the city’s most desir­
able quarter. It was first settled by the Romans
but flourished in Moorish times, when the tightly
packed becos (alleyways) and tiny squares
comprised the whole city. The Moors took advan­
tage of Alfama’s slopes, building the fortified
Castelo de São Jorge on the crown of the hill and
turning the city into a defensive stronghold.
But even that couldn’t hold off the crusaders
forever. The city was captured by Afonso Henriques
in 1147, and the seeds of Alfama’s decline were
sown in the Middle Ages when wealthy residents
moved west for fear of earthquakes, leaving the
quarter to fishermen and paupers. Many of its
buildings survived the 1755 earthquake – although
no Moorish houses still stand – and the quarter
retains its kasbah­like layout. Compact houses line
steep streets and stairways, their façades strung
with washing, and daily life still revolves around
local grocery stores and small, cellar­like taverns.
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ALFAMA
Must See
1 Castelo de São Jorge
Experience More
2 Museu de Artes Decorativas
3 São Vicente de Fora
4 Feira da Ladra
5 Santa Engrácia
6 Museu do Fado
7 Museu Militar
8 Casa dos Bicos
9 Museu do Aljube – Resistência
e Liberdade
0 Santo António da Sé
q Sé
Eat
1 Chapitô à Mesa
2 A Baiuca
3 Cantina Zé Avillez
Stay
4 Memmo Alfama
5 Solar do Castelo
6 Palacete Chafariz del Rei






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1 "'\-=
CASTELO DE


SÃO JORGE Torre de Ulisses


EXPERIENCE Alfama Cruz do Castelo) @ 737 v 28 # Mar–Oct: 9am–9pm daily;
 W2 ⌂ Porta de São Jorge (entrance on Rua de Santa
Nov–Feb: 9am–6pm daily (check website for further details)
∑ castelodesaojorge.pt
Towering above central Lisbon, this Moorish citadel is one of
the city’s most recognizable landmarks. Though much of the
present castle dates from a 1930s restoration, visitors still
flock to the top of the hill to seek out traces of the city’s
history and enjoy the spectacular views laid out below.

Following the recapture of Lisbon from the Moors in 1147, Dom Afonso
Henriques transformed their hilltop citadel into the residence of the
Portuguese kings. In 1511, Manuel I built a more lavish palace in what
is now the Praça do Comércio and the citadel castle was used variously
as a theatre, prison and arms depot. After the 1755 earthquake, the
ramparts remained in ruins until 1938, when António Salazar (p46)
began a complete renovation, rebuilding the “medieval” walls and
adding gardens and wildfowl. The castle may not be authentic, but the
gardens and the narrow streets of the Santa Cruz district within the
walls make a pleasant stroll, and views from the observation terrace are
some of the finest in Lisbon. Other attractions on-site include the city’s
only camera obscura and the Casa do Leão restaurant, built within part
of the former royal residence. Book a table for dinner; the restaurant is
also open at lunchtime to those with a ticket for the castle.







The Museu do Castelo,
which displays artifacts
from the archaeological
site and charts the
history of the city.


1

1 The citadel is set on a
hilltop location above
Lisbon's colourful rooftops.
2 Visitors can climb the
towers and walk along the
reconstructed ramparts of
the castle walls.
3 The castle’s Observation
Terrace is a large shaded
square offering spectacular
3 2 views over the city.
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Must See


Porta de Martim Moniz, a gate
named after the knight who
gave his life to keep it open for
Afonso Henriques' troops in 1147.
An archaeological
site containing the
ruins of settle-
ments dating from
before the original
citadel was built.



The 12th-century
church of Santa Cruz
do Castelo, inside
which is a 17th-
century statue of
St George.





The tangled
site of the
Castelo São
Jorge, packed
inside a walled
perimeter










Rua de Santa Cruz
do Castelo, a pretty
street south of
Porta de the castle.
São Jorge
Entrance

TORRE DE ULISSES Afonso Henriques,
Named after the Greek hero Ulysses, the first king of
who supposedly founded Lisbon on his Portugal
meander home from Troy, this tower
contains a camera obscura – a compli­
cated system of lenses and mirrors that
projects 360° views of the city onto the
walls in real time. Views are weather­
dependent; sunny mornings, when the
light is soft, yield the clearest images.







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EXPERIENCE MORE



crafts. Temporary exhibitions,
2 "' lectures and concerts are also
Museu de Artes held in the museum.
Decorativas
EXPERIENCE Alfama do Sol 2 @ 737 v 12, 28 3 "
 X3 ⌂ Largo Portas
# 10am–5pm Wed–Mon
São Vicente de Fora
¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec
∑ fress.pt
 Y2 ⌂ Largo de São
Vicente § 218 885 652
Also known as the Ricardo
@ 712, 734 v 28 # 9am–
do Espírito Santo Silva
Foundation, the museum was
museum: 10am–5pm Tue–
set up in 1953 to preserve the 5pm Tue–Sat, 9–11am Sun;
Sun ¢ Public hols
traditions and increase public
awareness of the Portuguese St Vincent was proclaimed
decorative arts. The foundation Lisbon’s patron saint in 1173,
was named after a banker when his relics were trans-
who bought the 17th-century ferred from the Algarve to a
Palácio Azurara in 1947 to church on this site outside
house his fine collection of (fora) the city walls. Designed Intricate marble
furniture, textiles, silver and by Italian architect Filippo inlays adorning São
cera mics. Among the 17th- Terzi, and completed in 1627, Vicente de Fora
and 18th-century antiques the sober, off-white façade is
displayed in this hand some in Italian Renaissance style,
four-storey mansion are many with towers either side and inaccurate, tile scenes of
fine pieces in exotic woods, three arches leading to the Afonso Henriques attacking
including an 18th-century entrance hall. Statues of Lisbon and Santarém. Deeper
rose wood back gammon and saints Augustine, Sebastian into the monastery, floral
chess table. Also of note are and Vincent can be seen over designs and cherubs illustrate
the collec tions of 18th-century the entrance. The adjoining the fables of La Fontaine.
silver and Chinese porcelain, former Augustinian monastery, A passageway leads behind
and hand-embroidered wool reached via the nave, retains the church to the old refec-
carpets from Arraiolos. The its 16th-century cistern and tory, transformed into the
spacious rooms still retain vestiges of the former cloister, Bragança Pantheon in 1885.
some original ceilings and but it is visited mainly for its The stone sarcophagi of
azulejo panels. 18th-century azulejos. Among almost every king and queen
In the adjoining building the panels in the en trance hall are here, from João IV, who
are workshops where artisans off the first cloister there are died in 1656, to Manuel II, last
pre serve the techniques of lively, though histori cally king of Portugal. Only Maria I
cabinet-making, gilding, and Pedro IV are not buried
book-binding, wood-carving here. A stone mourner kneels
and other traditional at the tomb of Carlos I and his
son Luís Felipe, assassinated
in Praça do Comércio in 1908.
The church now operates as a
museum, with access to the
Bragança Pantheon.

4 =
Feira da Ladra
 Y2 ⌂ Campo de Santa
Clara @ 712 v 28
# 9am–5pm Tue & Sat
Ornate carriage on
display at Museu de The stalls of the so-called
Artes Decorativas “Thieves’ Market” have
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occupied this site on the
edge of the Alfama for over 5 " GREAT VIEW
a century, laid out under the Santa Engrácia Miradouro de
shade of trees or canopies.  Y2 ⌂ Campo de Santa Santa Luzia
As the fame of this flea Clara § 218 854 820 @ 712 The terrace by the
market has grown, bar gains v 28 # 10am–6pm Tue– church of Santa Luzia
are increas ingly hard to find Sun (to 5pm Nov–Mar) provides a sweeping
among the mass of bric-a- ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Apr, Easter Sun, view over the Alfama
brac, but a few of the vendors 13 Jun, 24 & 25 Dec and the River Tagus.
have interesting wrought-iron Landmarks, from left
work, prints and tiles, as well One of Lisbon’s most striking to right, are the cupola
as second-hand clothes. landmarks, the soaring dome of Santa Engrácia, the
Evidence of Portugal’s colonial of Santa Engrácia (officially church of Santo Estêvão
past is reflected in the stalls known as Panteão Nacional) and the white towers
selling African statuary, masks punctuates the skyline in the of São Miguel. While
and jewellery. east of the city. The original tourists admire the
church collapsed in a storm in views, old men play
1681. The first stone of the cards under the bou-
Baroque monument, laid in gainvillea-clad pergola.
1682, marked the beginning
of a 284-year saga that led to
the invention of a saying that National Pantheon, it houses
a Santa Engrácia job was cenotaphs of Portuguese
never done. The church was heroes, such as Vasco da
not completed until 1966. Gama (p114) and Afonso de
The interior is paved with Albuquerque, Viceroy of India
coloured marble and crowned (1502–15) on the left, and on
by a giant cupola. As the the right Henry the Navigator
(p328). More contemporary
tombs include that of the
fadista Amália Rodrigues. A
A bric-a-brac stall lift up to the dome offers a
at the Feira da Ladra magnificent 360-degree
flea market panorama of the city.
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arms depot, visits here begin
in the Vasco da Gama Room,
with cannons and modern
murals depicting the dis-
covery of the sea route to
India. The Salas da Grande
Guerra dis play exhibits
related to World War I. Other
rooms focus on the evolution
EXPERIENCE Alfama flints to spears to rifles. The
of wea pons in Portugal, from
courtyard, flanked by cannons,
tells the story of Portugal in
tiled panels, from the Christian
Re conquest to World War I. The
José Malhoa’s O Fado, a haunting
Portuguese artillery section
displays the wagon used to
portrait hanging at the Museu do Fado
transport the triumphal arch
to Rua Augusta (p84).
the year on a range of musical
6 " themes, along with the
Museu do Fado occasional live fado concert.
8 "
 Y3 ⌂ Largo do Chafariz Casa dos Bicos
de Dentro 1 @ 728, 735,
759, 794 # 10am–6pm Tue– 7 "  W4 ⌂ Rua dos
Sun ∑ museudofado.pt Museu Militar Bacalhoeiros § 218 802
Alfama is considered the true  Y3 ⌂ Largo do Museu da 040 @ 728, 735, 759 v 15,
25 # 10am–6pm Mon–Sat
home of fado and this museum
portrays the influence that this Artilharia @ 728, 735, 759 Faced with diamond-shaped
v 28 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
ever-popular and intensely ¢ Public hols ∑ exercito.pt stones (bicos), Casa dos Bicos
heartfelt genre of music has (House of Spikes) looks
had on the city over the past Located on the site of a 16th- rather conspicuous
two centuries. A permanent century cannon foundry and among the other
display traces the genre’s
history from its origins in
the early 19th century to
the present day, from Maria
Severa, the first fado diva, to
more contemporary singers
like Amália Rodrigues and
Mariza. Regular temporary
exhibitions take place during
GREAT VIEW
Miradouro
da Graca
North of Alfama, the
suburb of Graça is visited
chiefly for the vistas
from its mira douro
(viewpoint). The pano­
rama of roof tops and
skyscrapers is less
spectacular than the
view from the Castelo
de São Jorge but it is a
popular spot, particular­
ly in the early evenings,
when couples sit at café Monumental portico
tables under the pines. at the entrance to
the Museu Militar
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STAY

Street café in front of
the 16th-century 9 - Memmo Alfama
Casa dos Bicos Museu do Aljube – Preserving a real sense
Resistência e of history, these
Liberdade buildings now house a
buildings in the Alfama area.  W4 ⌂ Rua Augusta Rosa boutique hotel. The
It was built in 1523 for Brás 42 # 10am–6pm Tue-Sat terrace has a pool and
de Albuquerque, illegitimate ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec offers dazzling views.
son of Afonso, Viceroy of India ∑ museudoaljube.pt  X4 ⌂ Travessa
and conqueror of Goa and Merceeiras 27
Malacca. The façade is an This fascinating museum ∑ memmohotels.com
adaptation of a style that was once used by António ¡¡¡
was popular across Europe Salazar – who ruled Portugal
during the 16th century. The as a dictator from 1926 until
top two storeys, ruined in the revolution of 1974 – to Solar do Castelo
the earthquake of 1755, imprison his political oppon- A charming hotel by the
were restored in the 1980s, ents. It is dedicated to those castle walls, built on the
recreating the original from who were prepared to fight site of the former palace
old views of Lisbon in tile for democracy, both in kitchens. Expect
panels and engravings. In Portugal and in its former original stone walls and
the interim the building was colonies. Three floors are intricate azulejos.
used for salting fish (Rua dos filled with evocative photos,  W3 ⌂ Rua das
Bacalhoeiros means street posters and radio broadcasts, Cozinhas 2
of the cod fisher men). with labelling in English. There ∑ solardocastelo.com
Following an extensive are also harrowing personal ¡¡¡
renovation in the 20th-cen- accounts from people who
tury, Casa dos Biscos now were incarcerated and often Palacete Chafariz
plays host to the head quar- tortured for views that were del Rei
ters of the José Saramago considered contrary to those Family home, with
Foundation. It is also home of the state; many of these stained glass, stuccoed
to a permanent exhibition inmates were later deported ceilings, chandeliers
dedicated to the life and to Madeira or the Azores. and antiques.
works of this Nobel Prize- Their cramped, windowless
winning author, who died cells can still be visited.  X4 ⌂ Travessa
Chafariz del Rei 6
in 2010. A variety of cultural The basement houses ∑ chafarizdelrei.com
events often take place here; archaeological finds from
these include concerts, plays beneath the building, which ¡¡¡
and book releases, along date back to Moorish times,
with a range of seminars, while the top-floor café offers
debates and lively talks. fine views over the river.
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0 "
Santo António da Sé
 W4 ⌂ Largo Santo
António da Sé 24 § 218
869 145 @ 737 v 12, 28
# 8am–7pm daily (to
8pm Sat & Sun); Museu
EXPERIENCE Alfama The popular little church of
Antoniano: 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun
Santo António allegedly
stands on the site of the
house in which St Antony
was born. The crypt, reached
via the tiled sacristy on the
left of the church, is all that
remains of the original church
destroyed by the earthquake Pope John Paul II in 1982. In The impressive
of 1755. Work began on the 1995 the church was given a Baroque façade of
new church in 1757 headed by face­lift for the saint’s eighth Santo António da Sé
Mateus Vicente, architect of centenary. It is traditional
the Basílica da Estrela (p100), for young couples to visit
and was partially funded by the church on their wedding
donations collected by local day and leave flowers for 11 "
children with the cry “a small St Antony, who is believed Sé
coin for St Antony”. Even to bring good luck to new  W4 ⌂ Largo da Sé § 218
today the floor of the tiny marriages. Next door, in the 866 752 @ 737 v 12, 28
chapel in the crypt is strewn building thought to be were # 9am–7pm daily (to 5pm
with coins and the walls are St Anthony was born, the Mon & Sun); treasury:
scrawled with devotional small Museu Antoniano 10am–5pm Mon–Sat
messages from worshippers. houses artifacts, relating
The church’s façade blends to the saint, along with gold­ In 1150, three years after
the undulating curves of the and silverware that used to Afonso Henriques recap tured
Baroque style with Neo­ decorate the church. The Lisbon from the Moors, he
Classical Ionic columns on most charming exhibit is a built a cathedral for the first
either side of the main portal. 17th­century tiled panel of bishop of Lisbon, the English
Inside, on the way down to the St Antony Crusader Gilbert of Hastings,
crypt, a modern azulejo panel preaching to on the site of the old mosque.
commemorates the visit of the fish. Sé is short for Sede Episcopal,
the seat (or see) of a bishop.
Devastated by three earth
SANTO ANTÓNIO (C 1195–1231) tremors in the 14th cen­
tury, as well as the earth­
The best-loved saint of the Lisboetas is
St Antony of Padua. Although born and quake of 1755, and
raised in Lisbon, he spent the last renovated over the
months of his life in Padua, Italy. centuries, the cathedral
St Antony joined the Franciscan you see today blends a
Order in 1220, impressed by some variety of archi tectural
crusading friars he had met at styles. The façade, with
Coimbra. The friar was a learned twin castellated bell
and pas sionate preacher, known for towers and a splendid rose
his devotion to the poor and his ability win dow, retains its solid
to convert heretics. Many statues and Romanesque aspect. The
paintings of St Antony depict him gloomy interior is simple and
carrying the Infant Jesus on a book, austere, and little remains of
while others show him preaching to the embellish ment lavished
fish, as St Francis preached to birds. In upon it by King João V in
1934, Pope Pius XI declared St Antony the first half of the 18th
a patron saint of Portugal. century. Beyond the re­
novated Roman esque nave,
the ambulatory has nine
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Gothic chapels. The Capela de entrance, the Franciscan
Santo Ildefonso contains the chapel contains the font
14th-century sarcophagi of where St Anthony was
Lopo Fernandes Pacheco, baptized in 1195 and is EAT
companion in arms to King decorated with a tiled scene
Afonso IV, and his wife, Maria of him preaching to the fish.
Vilalobos. The bearded figure The adjacent chapel contains Chapitô à Mesa
of the noble man, who is a Baroque Nativity scene For a meal with a view,
holding a sword in his hand, made of cork, wood and the terrace here has
and his wife, clutch ing a terracotta by Machado de jaw-dropping vistas.
prayer book, are carved onto Castro (1766). W3 ⌂ Costa do
the tombs with their dogs The treasury is at the top Castelo 7 § 218 867 734
sitting faithfully at their feet. of the staircase on the right. ¡¡¡
In the adjacent chancel are It houses silver, ecclesiastical
the tombs of Afonso IV and robes, statuary, illustrated
his wife Dona Beatriz. manuscripts and a few relics A Baiuca
The Gothic cloister (closed associated with St Vincent, This tiny tasca has a
for renovation until 2020) has which were transferred to good menu but even
elegant double arches with Lisbon from Cabo de São better fado vadio
some finely carved capitals. Vicente in southern Portugal (amateur fado).
One of the chapels is still fitted 1173. Legend has it that two  X3 ⌂ Rua de São
with its 13th-century wrought- sacred ravens kept a vigil over Miguel 20 § 218 867
iron gate. Ongoing archaeo- the boat that transported the 284 ¢ Tue & Wed
logical excavations in the relics. The ravens and the ¡¡¡
cloister have unearthed various boat became a symbol of the
Roman and other remains. city of Lisbon, still very much Cantina Zé Avillez
To the left of the cathedral in use today. It is also said Sample tasty food by
that the raven’s descendants one of Lisbon’s top chefs
used to dwell in the cloisters at this tiled restaurant.
of the cathedral.
 W4 ⌂ Rua dos
Arameiros 15
∑ cantinazeavillez.pt
Interior of the ¡¡¡
city’s cathedral,
adorned with stunning
stained-glass (inset)


































070-071_EW_Portugal.indd 71 08/10/2018 12:36

A SHORT WALK
ALFAMA




Distance 600 m (0.4 miles) Nearest station Graça bus stop
Time 15 minutes and work your way down. A wander through
EXPERIENCE Alfama Alfama comes to life in the late afternoon and the maze of winding alleyways will reveal
A fascinating quarter at any time of day, the
early evening; time your walk for this hour, when picturesque corners and crumbling churches,
the locals emerge at their doorways and the
plus panoramic views from shady terraces, such
small taverns start to fill. Given the steep
as the Miradouro de Santa Luzia. A new gener­
ation of younger residents has also resulted in
streets and steps of the neighbourhood, the
least strenuous approach is to start at the top
a small number of trendy shops and bars.
Largo das Portas do
Sol, on the east side
of the Santa Luzia
Statue of St Vincent church, with its own
terrace viewpoint




L . D A S P O R TA S D O S O L

Museu de Artes B E CO D E S A N TA H E L E N A
Decorativas, a furniture START
and arts museum
established in a
17th-century palácio by
the banker Ricardo R.DO CASTELO
do Espírito Santo Silva

The church of Santa Luzia, with
18th-century blue-and-white
azulejo panels on its south wall

Miradouro de Santa Luzia,
a pleasant place to take
in the view from the R U A N . D E A R A Ú J O
bougainvillea-clad terrace











An azulejo-lined
staircase at the Museu
de Artes Decorativas
72



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ALFAMA



Locator Map
For more detail see p62




The spectacular cityscape, as seen
from the Miradouro de Santa Luzia



Beco das Cruzes is a steep cobbled
street, above which locals often
string their washing between the The church of Nossa
tightly packed houses. Senhora dos
Remédios, whose
Restaurants, hidden pinnacled Manueline
in the labyrinth of portal is all that
D A S C R U Z E S onto open-air original building
alleyways, spill out
remains of the
patios.
B E CO
B E CO D E S A N TA H E L E N A

R.DO CASTELO

R U A D E S Ã O M I G U E L B E C O D O M E X I A S







L AR GO DO
CHAFARIZ DE
DENTR O
Rua de São Pedro,
where a lively Largo do Chafariz de
R U A D E S Ã O P E D R O market is held daily Dentro, a public square
early-morning fish
named after the 17th-
century fountain (chafariz)
that was originally placed
B E C O D O P O C I N H O
outside the 14th-century
FINISH within (dentro) rather than
city walls
São Miguel was rebuilt
after the 1755 earthquake,
although it retains a few 0 metres 25 N
earlier features.
0 yards 25
73



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The wide Rua Augusta cutting through Lisbon’s Baixa district






































BAIXA AND AVENIDA



It was the Baixa that felt the full force of the
1755 earthquake, which destroyed much of the
neighbourhood. From its ruins, the Marquês de
Pombal created an entirely new centre, using a
grid layout of streets and linking the riverfront
Praça do Comércio with the busy Rossio square.
The streets were flanked by uniform, Neo-Classical
buildings and named according to the shopkeepers
and craftsmen who traded there – Rua do Ouro
was the goldsmiths’ street, and Rua dos Sapateiros
that of the shoemakers.
Some 80 years later, the Arco da Rua Augusta
was built to celebrate the Baixa’s reconstruction.
The Avenida de Liberdade followed shortly
afterwards, laid out in 1882 as the city’s main
avenue between the Baixa and Parque Eduardo VII.
Fashioned on Paris’s Champs-Élysées, it is still the
city’s most upmarket area, lined with grand 19th-
century mansions and a tree-dotted central strip.
75



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RUA JOAQUIM ANT. DE AGUIAR
RUA JOAQUIM ANT. DE AGUIAR PRAÇA DO MARQUÊSPRAÇA DO MARQUÊS RUA CAMILO RUA CAMILO
DE POMBAL
DE POMBAL
Marquês deMarquês de CASTELO BRANCO
CASTELO BRAN
Pombal Pombal H ER CU L A N O R U A G O M E S F R E I R E BAIXA ANDBAIXA AND
R U A B R A A M C A M P R U A B R A A M C A M P AVENIDA AVENIDA RODRIGUES LG . PAÇO DA RAINHA
AVENIDAAVENIDA
LG . PAÇO DA RAINHA
AMOREIRASAMOREIRAS RUA RODRIGO DA FONSECA DE PALMEL A DE PALMEL A H ER CU L A N O CO A L . S . A N T Ó N I O D O S C A P U C H O S
RUA
RUA
RUA DUQUE
RUA DUQUE
R U A A L E X A N D RE
R U A G O M E S F R E I R E
A L . S . A N T Ó N I O D O S C A P U C H O S
Casa Museu
RUA RODRIGO DA FONSECA
MedeirosMedeiros
RODRIGUES
e Almeida e Almeida
Mãe d'Água
Mãe d'Água R U A A L E X A N D RE Casa Museu R UA DE SANTA MARTA Campo Campo
dos
dos
RUA BARATA SALGUEIRO
RUA ROSA ARAÚJO RUA BARATA SALGUEIRO RUA DO PASSA DI ÇO MÁRTIRES DA PÁTRIA CAMPO DO S da Pátriada Pátria
RUA ROSA ARAÚJO
Reservoir Reservoir RU A DE SÃO FIL I PE NER I RU A DE SÃO FIL I PE NER I SAMPAIO SAMPAIO Mártires Mártires
R UA DE SANTA MARTA
CAMPO DO S
RUA DO PASSA DI ÇO
MÁRTIRES DA PÁTRIA
LARGO DO RATOLARGO DO RATO R U A D O S A L I T R E S A L I T R E DA L I BER DADE RUA DO T E L HAL RUA DO T E L HAL RU A MANUEL A V . A L M I R A N T E R E I S A V . A
DA L I BER DADE
R U A C A ST I L H O
R U A C A ST I L H O
Rato
R U A D O
Rato
R. SARAIVA DE CARVAL H O AVENIDA PEDRO R AT O R AT O R UA DA ESCOL A POLITÉCNICA Jardim Avenida da RUA DE SÃO JOSÉ ElevadorElevador RUA DO INSTITUTO BACTERIOLÓGICO BE NTO SOUSA RUA DE SÃO L A
ÁLVARES CABR AL H O
Avenida Avenida
RUA NOVA D.
RUA NOVA D.
AVENIDA PEDRO
RU A MANUEL
SÃO MAMEDE
SÃO MAMEDE
ÁLVARES CABR AL
R. SARAIVA DE CARVAL
BE NTO SOUSA
RUA DO
Avenida da
Liberdade Liberdade
Museu Na
Museu Nacional decional de
Jardim
História Natural
História Natural
de Lavrade Lavra
BotânicoBotânico
INSTITUTO BACTERIOLÓGICO
e da Ciênciaa Ciência
e d
RUA DE SÃO JOSÉ
PRAÇA DA
ALEGRIA
ALEGRIA
L ARGO DA GRAÇA
RUA DE SÃO L A
RUA DA CONCEIÇÃO PRAÇA DA DA LIB ER DAD E AVE N I DA Sociedade Sociedade Martim Martim GRAÇA GRAÇA L ARGO DA GRAÇA
RUA DA CONCEIÇÃO
Museu da Museu da
Z A R O
Z A R O
R UA DA ESCOL A POLITÉCNICA
DA GLÓRIA
DA GLÓRIA
de Geograˆa
de Geograˆa
AVE N I DA
Moniz
Moniz
R. DA ALEGRIA
R. DA ALEGRIA
BAIXA AND PRAÇA DO PRAÇA DO
DA LIB ER DAD E
RUA D A PAL M A
RUA D A PAL M A
PRÍNCIPE REAL PRÍNCIPE REAL
AVENIDA RUA DE SÃO MARÇAL RUA DE SÃO MARÇAL BAIRRO ALTOBAIRRO ALTO ElevadorElevador DE SA NTO ANTÃO DE SA NTO ANTÃO RUA DO ARCO DA GRAÇA RUA DO ARCO DA GRAÇA
Praça dosPraça dos
Must Sees R U A D A P A L M E I R A AND ESTRELAAND ESTRELA da Glóriada Glória RUA M A RTIM MO N IZ RUA M A RTIM MO N IZ MOUR
RU A DAS PO RTAS
RU A DAS PO RTAS
MOURARIA ARIA
RestauradoresRestauradores
p88
p88
1 Praça do Comércio R U A D A P Restauradores LARGO DE LARGO DE BARROS
R U A EDUAR D O COELHO
Restauradores
RUA DE
RUA DE
BARROS
2 Elevador de Santa Justa R U A EDUAR D O COELHO A L M E I R A R U A D O S É C U L O R U A D O S É C U L O ROSSIO ROSSIO Rossio
SÃO DOMINGOS QUEIRÓS
SÃO DOMINGOS QUEIRÓS
(PR AÇA
(PR AÇA
Rossio Praça daPraça da
DOM
DOM
Experience More Rossio Rossio PEDRO IV )PEDRO IV ) Figueira Figueira
3 Jardim Botânico B AIRR O R. DE SÃO T O M É R. DE SÃO T O M É
B AIRR O
RUA DA
R. DA ACADEMIA DAS
Rossio
4 Praça dos Restauradores R. DA ACADEMIA DAS CIÊNCIAS CIÊNCIAS A LT O A LT O CALÇADA DO DUQ U E DA DO DUQ U E Rossio B E T E S G A RUA DA Castelo deCastelo de
B E T E S G A
CALÇA
5 Avenida da Liberdade BAIXA BAIXA São JorgeSão Jorge
6 Casa Museu Medeiros e Almeida Igreja doIgreja do Elevador deElevador de
Carmo
Carmo
7 Rossio R . NOV A DA TR I N DADE R . NOV A DA TR I N DADE Santa JustaSanta Justa RUA DOS CORREEIROS ALFAMAALFAMA
8 Rua Augusta R. DA MISERICÓRDIA R. DA MISERICÓRDIA RUA DO CARMO RUA DO CARMO RUA AUGUSTA RUA AUGUSTA p60 p60 Museu
de Artes de Artes
9 Praça da Figueira R U A D A P R A T A RUA DOS FANQUEIROS A RUA DOS FANQUEIROS Decorativas Decorativas
0 Museu da Sociedade de Geografia ChiadoT Chiado
RUA DOS CORREEIROS
Baixa-
Baixa-
C A LÇ A D A D O
RUA GARRETT
CHIADO
R U A D A P R A T
q Núcleo Arqueológico C A LÇ A D A D O C O M B R O C O M B R O R . D O L O R E T O L O R E T O CHIADO RUA GARRET Rua AugustaRua Augusta
R . D O
RUA DE SÃO NICOLAU
RUA DOS DOURADORES
RUA DOS DOURADORES
w MUDE (Museu do Design e da Moda) Baixa- Baixa- RUA DE SÃO NICOLAU
Chiado
Chiado
Núcleo ArqueológicoNúcleo Arqueológico
R U A D O A L E C R I M
e Nossa Senhora da Conceição Velha R U A I V E N S R U A I V E N DO ALMADA
R. DA CONCEIÇÃO
R. DO CAIS D. SANTARÉM
ElevadorElevador DO ALMADA S R. DA CONCEIÇÃO LARGO LARGO Sé Sé
DE SÉ
DE SÉ
Eat da Bica da Bica R U A S E R P R U A S E R P MUDE (Museu doMUDE (Museu do Nossa Senhora Casa dosCasa dos R. DO CAIS D. SANTARÉM
RUA NOVA
RUA NOVA
Nossa Senhora
RUA ÁUREA (R. DO OURO)
RUA ÁUREA (R. DO OURO)
1 Bonjardim, Rei dos Frangos R U A DA S FLO RE S R U A D O A L E C R I M MARIA CARDOSO O RE S Carlos R. ANTÓNIO Design e da Moda)Design e da Moda) da Conceiçãoonceição Bicos Bicos
da C
RUA DO COMÉRCIO
Velha
Velha
2 Cervejaria Ribadouro R U A D A B O A V I S T A R. ANTÓNIO R U A DA S FL de São MARIA CARDOSO de São RUA DO COMÉRCIO Arco da Arco da R. DA ALFÂNDEGA ALFÂNDEGA
R. DA
Rua Augusta
Carlos
R U A D A B O A V I S T A
3 Confeitaria Nacional Teatro A P I N T O Teatro A P I N T O Rua Augusta Campo dasCampo das
Doca da Marinha
Cebolas
Cebolas
RUA DO ARSENAL
Stay R. DE S. PAULO RUA DO ARSENAL The Lisbon Doca da Marinha
R. DE S. PAULO
The Lisbon
R U A D E DO M
Praça doPraça do
4 Hotel Heritage Avenida Liberdade R U A D E DO M L U Í S I L U Í S I ComércioComércio Story Centre
Story Centre
5 Hotel Almalusa R. D. RIBEIRA NOVA Doca da Doca da Terreiro Terreiro
R. D. RIBEIRA NOVA
Estação Fluvial
6 Inspira Santa Marta RUA B. COSTA RUA B. COSTA CaldeirinhaCaldeirinha do Paço do Paço Estação Fluvial
AVENIDA RIBEIRA DAS NAUS
Terreiro do Paço
Terreiro do Paço
AV E N I DA 2 4 D E J U L H O D E J U L H O Cais das Cais das
AV E N I DA 2 4
Shop Cais do Cais do AVENIDA RIBEIRA DAS NAUS Colunas Colunas
7 Manuel Tavares Sodré Sodré 0 metres 0 metres 250 N 250 N
8 Madeira House 0 yards 0 yards 250 250
Barreiro Barreiro
076-077_EW_Portugal.indd 76 20/09/2018 10:39

RUA JOAQUIM ANT. DE AGUIAR
RUA JOAQUIM ANT. DE AGUIAR PRAÇA DO MARQUÊSPRAÇA DO MARQUÊS RUA CAMILO RUA CAMILO
DE POMBAL
DE POMBAL
Marquês deMarquês de CASTELO BRANCO
CASTELO BRAN
Pombal Pombal H ER CU L A N O R U A G O M E S F R E I R E BAIXA ANDBAIXA AND
R U A B R A A M C A M P R U A B R A A M C A M P AVENIDA AVENIDA RODRIGUES LG . PAÇO DA RAINHA
AVENIDAAVENIDA
LG . PAÇO DA RAINHA
AMOREIRASAMOREIRAS RUA RODRIGO DA FONSECA DE PALMEL A DE PALMEL A H ER CU L A N O CO A L . S . A N T Ó N I O D O S C A P U C H O S
RUA
RUA
RUA DUQUE
RUA DUQUE
R U A A L E X A N D RE
R U A G O M E S F R E I R E
A L . S . A N T Ó N I O D O S C A P U C H O S
Casa Museu
RUA RODRIGO DA FONSECA
MedeirosMedeiros
RODRIGUES
e Almeida e Almeida
Mãe d'Água
Mãe d'Água R U A A L E X A N D RE Casa Museu R UA DE SANTA MARTA Campo Campo
dos
RUA BARATA SALGUEIRO
dos
RUA ROSA ARAÚJO RUA BARATA SALGUEIRO RUA DO PASSA DI ÇO MÁRTIRES DA PÁTRIA CAMPO DO S da Pátriada Pátria
RUA ROSA ARAÚJO
Reservoir Reservoir RU A DE SÃO FIL I PE NER I RU A DE SÃO FIL I PE NER I SAMPAIO SAMPAIO Mártires Mártires
R UA DE SANTA MARTA
CAMPO DO S
RUA DO PASSA DI ÇO
MÁRTIRES DA PÁTRIA
LARGO DO RATOLARGO DO RATO R U A D O S A L I T R E S A L I T R E DA L I BER DADE RUA DO T E L HAL RUA DO T E L HAL RU A MANUEL A V . A L M I R A N T E R E I S A V . A L M I R A N T E
DA L I BER DADE
R U A C A ST I L H O
R U A C A ST I L H O
Rato
R U A D O
Rato
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R . NOV A DA TR I N DADE
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Sodré Sodré 0 metres 0 metres 250 N 250 N
0 yards 0 yards 250 250
Barreiro Barreiro
076-077_EW_Portugal.indd 77 20/09/2018 10:39

1 \-=
PRAÇA DO


COMÉRCIO


EXPERIENCE Baixa and Avenida The beautiful riverfront Praça do Comércio is a vast square with
 N7 @ 711, 714, 759, 794 & many other routes v 15, 18, 25
shady arcades on three sides and the wide expanse of the Tagus
lapping at its southern edge. It was the centrepiece of the Marquês
de Pombal’s post-earthquake redesign of the city, and today
remains a lively gathering place that hosts cultural events and
festivals throughout the year.
Known to locals as Terreiro do Paço (Palace
Square), this huge open space was the site of
the royal palace for 400 years. Manuel I trans-
ferred the royal residence from Castelo de
São Jorge to this more convenient spot by
the river in 1511. When the original palace was
destroyed in the 1755 earthquake, Pombal
housed the new palace in spacious arcaded
buildings around three sides of the square.
On the fourth side, grand marble steps stretch
down to the water’s edge.
Highlights of the square include a huge
bronze statue of King José I, the impressive
Arco da Rua Augusta on the north side and the
Lisbon Story Centre, an interactive museum
exploring events in the city’s history.


HISTORY IN
THE MAKING
The Praça do Comércio
has been the scene
of major events
throughout Lisbon’s
history. On 1 February
1908, King Carlos and
his son Luís Felipe were
assassinated as they
passed through the
square, an event that
eventually led to the
abolition of the monar­
chy and declar ation of
the Republic two years
later. Then in 1974, the
square saw the first
uprising of the Armed
Forces Movement,
whose soldiers –
sporting carnations in
their rifles – overthrew
the Caetano regime in a
bloodless revolution.


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Must See
1 Locals gather on
the square’s stone
steps leading down to
the wide Tagus river.
2 Museum-goers
take in an unusual
exhibit at the
Lisbon Story Centre. 2
3 The colonnade
and archways
around the square’s
edges provide a
cool place to stroll.


1 3





Did You Know?
The Martinho da
Arcada, set in a corner
of the square, is
Lisbon’s oldest café.


































Bustling Praça do
Comércio, dominated by a
huge statue of King José I
79



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EXPERIENCE Baixa and Avenida Lisbon’s historic centre









unfurling beneath the viewing
Did You Know?
gallery at the top of the lift
The Santa Justa is the
only remaining
2 " vertical street lift
ELEVADOR DE in the city.

SANTA JUSTA


 N6 ⌂ Rua de Santa Justa and Largo do Carmo
§ 213 613 000 # 7:30am–9:30pm daily (to 11pm May–Sep) A stunning panorama of the
Baixa’s grid pattern can be
Sandwiched between pale stone buildings, this seen from the platform.
arresting iron structure is a vertical link between
Lisbon’s lowest and highest neighbourhoods. A
platform at the top provides spectacular city views.
Also known as the Elevador do Carmo, this
Neo-Gothic lift was built at the turn of the
20th century by French architect Raoul
Mesnier du Ponsard, a student of Alexandre
Gustave Eiffel. Made of iron and embellished
with filigree, it is one of the more eccentric
features of the Baixa. The ticket office is
located at the foot of the lift, and from here
passengers can travel up and down inside
the tower in one of two smart wood-panelled
cabins with brass fittings; at the top is a
walkway linking the Baixa with Largo do
Carmo in the Bairro Alto, 32 m (105 ft)
above. The apex of the tower, reached via
an extremely tight spiral stairway, is given
over to a viewing gallery. This high vantage
point commands splendid views of Rossio,
the Baixa, the castle on the opposite hill, the
river and the nearby ruins
of the Carmo church. The Filigree motifs
fire that gutted the Chiado The ornate decorate the
district (p97) was extin- lift shaft and top- wrought-
guished close to the lift. level walkway iron shaft.
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Must See
EXPERIENCE MORE




3 "-=
Jardim Botânico
 L5 ⌂ Rua da Escola STAY
Politécnica 58 @ 758
q Rato # Gardens: 9am–
Hotel Heritage
8pm daily (to 5pm Oct– Avenida Liberdade
Mar); MUHNAC: 10am–5pm
Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat & Tastefully converted
Sun ¢ Public hols mansion with slick decor
∑ museus.ulisboa.pt and great views.
 M5 ⌂ Avenida
This complex comprises a da Liberdade 28
museum and 4 ha (10 acres) ∑ heritageav
of gardens. The botanical liberdade.com
gardens are well kept, and it is ¡¡¡
worth paying the entrance fee
to wander among the exotic
trees and dense paths as Hotel Almalusa
the gardens descend from Beautiful 18th-century
the main entrance towards building on a historic
Rua da Alegria. A magnificent, square. Many rooms
verdant avenue of lofty palms have original features.
connects the two levels.  N7 ⌂ Praça do
The Museu Nacional de Município 21
História Natural e da Ciência, or ∑ almalusahotels.com
MUHNAC (National Museum of ¡¡¡
Natural History and Science),
has collections on botany, Inspira Santa Marta
zoology, anthropology, geology Eco-friendly hotel with
and palaeontology, as well as contemporary feng-
hosting temporary exhibitions shui inspired decor.
on themes such as dinosaurs.
The museum also exhibits  M4 ⌂ Rua de
Santa Marta 48
scientific instru ments dating ∑ inspirahotels.com
from the 16th to the 20th
century and holds popular ¡¡¡
child-friendly programmes
that demon strate basic
Steps leading up to scientific principles.
the impressive Elevador
de Santa Justa


INSIDER TIP
Upwardly
Mobile
The Santa Justa lift
is technically part
of Lisbon’s public
transport system –
and therefore a ride
is covered by the 24-
hour public transport
tickets that can be
purchased from any Shaded path descending
metro station. among exotic foliage,
Jardim Botânico
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4 businesses. It was built by
Francesco Savario Fabri in
Praça dos 1755–77 for the Marquês de
Restauradores Castelo-Melhor and renamed Did You Know?
after the Marquês de Foz, who
 M6 @ 709, 711, 736 & Rossio is home to a
many other routes lived here in the 19th century. public mirror engraved
q Restauradores The smart Avenida Palace with the words “correct
Hotel on the southwest side your tie’s knot here”.
of the square, was designed
This square, distinguished
EXPERIENCE Baixa and Avenida country’s liberation from the railway station. (public promenade) in the
by José LuÍs Monteiro (1848–
by its soaring obelisk erected
1942), who also built Rossio
in 1886, commemorates the
Spanish yoke in 1640 (p45).
The bronze figures on the
pedestal depict Victory,
area now occupied by the
5
holding a palm and a crown,
lower part of Avenida da
Avenida da Liberdade
Liberdade and Praça dos
and Freedom. The names and
Restauradores. Despite its
dates that are inscribed on
 M5 @ 709, 711, 736
the sides of the obelisk are
those of the battles of the
was restricted to Lisbon’s high
q Restauradores, Avenida
War of Restoration.
society and walls and gates
On the west side, the & many other routes name, enjoyment of the park
ensured the exclu sion of the
After the earthquake of 1755,
Palácio Foz now houses a the Marquês de Pombal lower classes. In 1821, when
tourist office and other created the Passeio Público the Liberals came to power,
the barriers were pulled down
and the Avenida and square
The Avenida da Liberdade you see became open to all.
today was built in 1879–82 to replicate The Avenida da Liberdade
the sophistication and style of the you see today was built in
1879–82 to replicate the
Champs-Elysées in Paris. sophistication and style of
the Champs-Elysées in Paris.
The wide tree-lined avenue
became a focus for pageants,
festivities and demonstrations.
A war memorial stands as a
tribute to those who died in
World War I. The avenue still
retains a certain elegance,
with fountains and café tables
shaded by trees, however,
it no longer makes for a
peaceful stroll. The once
majestic thorough fare, 90 m
(295 ft) wide and decor ated
with abstract pavement
pat terns, is now divided by
seven lanes of traffic linking
Praça dos Restauradores and
Praça Marquês de Pombal
to the north. Many of the Art
Nouveau façades have given
way to modern ones occupied
by offices, hotels or shopping
complexes, though some of
the original mansions have
been preserved. Look out for
the Neo-Classical Tivoli
cinema at No 188, with an
original 1920s kiosk outside,
The soaring obelisk and Casa Lambertini with its
dominating Praça colourful mosaic decoration
dos Restauradores at No 166.
82
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Rossio, featuring is Gil Vicente (1465–1536), the
wavy paving and a founder of Portuguese theatre.
fountain (inset) Café Nicola on the west side
that is illuminated of the square was a favourite
at night meeting place among writers,
including the poet Manuel du
Bocage (1765–1805), who was
7 notorious for his satires.
Rossio
 N6 @ 709, 711, 736 &
6 many other routes q Rossio
Casa Museu Medeiros Formally called Praça Dom SHOP
e Almeida Pedro IV, this large square has
been Lisbon’s nerve centre
 L5 ⌂ Rua Rosa Araújo 41 for six centuries: the stage of Manuel Tavares
# 10am–5pm Mon–Sat This 19th-century shop
∑ casa-museumedeirose bull fights, festivals, military is partly a deli – selling
almeida.pt parades and gruesome autos local cheeses, nuts and
da fé (acts of faith). The sober preserves – and partly a
This little-known museum off Pom baline buildings are now wine store, with a large
the Avenida is in the former occupied by shops and cafés. selection of port and
home of António Medeiros e Centre stage is a statue of Dom Madeira wine.
Almeida, an industrialist who Pedro IV, the first emperor of  N6 ⌂ Rua da
amassed an astonishing independent Brazil. Betesga 1a ¢ Sun
collection of international arts In the mid-19th century, the ∑ manueltavares.com
and crafts before bequeathing square was paved with wave-
it to the nation in the 1970s. patterned mosaics that gave
Today the collection sprawls it the nickname of “Rolling Madeira House
across 27 galleries – housed Motion Square”. The grey and A traditional shop
partly in Medeiros e Almeida’s white stone cubes were the selling quality
19th-century mansion and first such designs to decorate embroidery and linen
partly in a modern wing. It the city’s pavements. from Madeira, as well as
includes paintings by Rubens, On the north side of Rossio beautiful ceramics,
Pieter Bruegel II and Jacob is the Teatro Nacional Dona decorative tiles and
handicrafts from
Huysman, with a self-portrait Maria II, named after Dom mainland Portugal.
by Rembrandt as one of the Pedro’s daughter. The Neo-
highlights. Other notable items Classical structure was built  N7 ⌂ Rua Augusta
include a tea set that belonged in the 1840s by the Italian 133 ∑ madeira-
to Napoleon, some of the archi tect Fortunato Lodi. The house.com
earliest Chinese porcelain to inte rior was destroyed by fire
reach Europe and a collection in 1964 and reconstructed in
of ornate watches and clocks. the 1970s. Atop the pediment
83



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from the top of the arch, which
is accessed by an elevator.
The other main thorough­
fares of the Baixa are Rua da EAT
Prata (silversmiths’ street) and
Rua do Ouro or Rua Áurea
(goldsmiths’ street). Cutting Bonjardim,
Rei dos Frangos
across these main streets are the ideal place to sample
smaller streets that give
On a side street, this is
EXPERIENCE Baixa and Avenida Cafés lining the grand São Jorge (p64) to the east.  M6 ⌂ Travessa de
glimpses up to the Bairro Alto
Portugal’s spit-roast
to the west and Castelo de
chicken – with or
without fiery
Many streets retain shops
piri-piri sauce.
that gave them their name:
jewellers in Rua da Prata and
Rua do Ouro and banks in
Santo Antão 11–18
Rua do Comércio.
Rua Augusta, framed
§ 213 424 389
In the heart of the Baixa is
by the triumphal arch
¢ Wed in winter
¡¡¡
baths, located within the
Banco Comercial Português in
8
Cervejaria
Rua dos Correeiros. The ruins
Rua Augusta a small section of the Roman Ribadouro
and mosaics can be seen from
the window at the back of the Set in a striking 1920s
 N7 @ 711, 714, 732, 736, bank; alternatively you can building, this bustling
759 & many other routes restaurant and brewery
q Baixa-Chiado book ahead to visit the does a strong line in
“museum” on 211 131 681.
A lively pedestrianized street fresh seafood.
decorated with mosaic  M5 ⌂ Avenida
pavements and lined with 9 da Liberdade 155
boutiques and cafés, Rua ∑ cervejariaribadouro.pt
Augusta is the main tourist Praça da Figueira ¡¡¡
thoroughfare and the smartest  N6 @ 714, 759, 760
in the Baixa. Street performers & many other routes v 12, Confeitaria Nacional
provide entertainment, while 15 q Rossio This historic café
vendors sell souvenirs. The opened in 1829 and still
triumphal Arco da Rua Augusta, Before the 1755 earthquake, serves a tempting array
built to commemorate the the square next to Rossio was of pastries, teas and
city’s recovery from the earth­ the site of the Hospital de strong coffee.
quake, was completed only in Todos­os­Santos (All Saints).  N6 ⌂ Praça
1873. There are great views In Pombal’s design for the
da Figueira 18
§ 213 424 470
¡¡¡
Equestrian statue
of João I standing in
Praça da Figueira
Baixa, the square took on the
role of the city’s central
marketplace. In 1885 a covered
market was built, but this was
pulled down in the 1950s.
Today, the four­storey buildings
are given over to hotels, shops
and cafés and the square is no
longer a marketplace. Perhaps
its most eye­catching feature
is the multitude of pigeons
that perch on the pedestal
supporting Leopoldo de
Almeida’s bronze equestrian
statue of João I, erected in 1971.
084-085_EW_Portugal.indd 84 20/09/2018 17:00

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history, from pre-Roman
0 "'- times to the 18th century. 13
Museu da Sociedade Displays range from the Nossa Senhora da
de Geografia remains of Roman fish- Conceição Velha
preserving tanks to wooden
 M5 ⌂ Rua das Portas de  N7 ⌂ Rua da Alfândega
Santo Antão 100 § 213 425 pillars used to prop up Baixa’s § 218 870 202 @ 759, 794
401 @ 709, 711, 736 buildings when it was rebuilt v 15, 25 # 10am–2pm,
q Restauradores # 11am– on waterlogged land after the 3–6pm daily
earthquake of 1755.
12:45pm, 2–4:45pm Mon–Fri
The elaborate Manueline
This museum houses an doorway of the church is the
idiosyncratic ethnographical w only surviving feature from
collection brought back from the original 16th-century
Portugal’s former colonies. On MUDE (Museu do Nossa Senhora da Misericórdia,
display are circumcision masks Design e da Moda) which stood here until the
from Guinea Bissau, musical  N7 ⌂ Rua Augusta 24 1755 earth quake. The portal is
instruments and snake spears. # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun decorated with a profusion of
From Angola there are neck (closed until 2019 for Manueline detail including
rests to sustain coiffures and renovation, check website angels, beasts, flowers and
the ori ginal padrão – the pillar for updates) ∑ mude.pt the cross of the Order of
erected by the Portuguese in Christ. In the tympanum, the
1482 to mark their sovereignty Anyone with an interest in Virgin Mary spreads her pro-
over the colony. design or fashion will want tective mantle over various
to linger at this tremendous contemporary figures. These
collection of 20th-century include Pope Leo X, Manuel I
classics from around the world, and his sister, Queen Leonor,
11 ' which traces the evolution widow of João II. It was Leonor
NÚcleo ArqueolÓgico of design from the 1930s who founded the original
onwards. The bulk of the Misericórdia (alms house) on
 N7 ⌂ Rua dos Correeiros
21 § 211 131 004 # 10am– pieces on display are from the the site of a former synagogue.
noon, 2–5pm Mon–Sat private collec tion of Francisco
Capelo, which the wealthy
Late-20th-century renovation economist bequeath ed to HIDDEN GEM
works on this site uncovered the state in 2003. Elevador
archaeological finds, many Exhibits are overhauled da Lavra
dating back over 2,500 years. regularly, but usually feature Seek out the Elevador da
These have been preserved, the likes of “Marilyn’s lips” Lavra, one of the city’s
often under glass flooring, (Bocca’s iconic mouth-shaped lesser- known street
and today can be visited sofa), furniture by Philippe lifts located at the end
in situ as part of a free and Starck or Charles and Ray of Largo da Anunciada.
interesting guided tour. Eames, and wonderful haute Dating back to 1884, it
The cramped underground couture from Vivienne climbs up to the pretty
walkways provide a fascin- Westwood, Jean-Paul Gaultier Jardim do Torel gardens.
ating insight into Lisbon’s and Alexander McQueen.

MUDE, with the Arco
da Rua Augusta in
the background
















85



084-085_EW_Portugal.indd 85 20/09/2018 17:00

A SHORT WALK
RESTAURADORES




Distance 1.3 km (0.8 miles) Nearest station
Restauradores metro Time 20 minutes
EXPERIENCE Baixa and Avenida and Praça da Figueira. Totally rebuilt T. D E S A N T O A N TÃ O
This is the busiest part of Lisbon,
especially the central squares of Rossio
after the earthquake of 1755, the area
was one of Europe’s first examples of
town planning. Stroll the wide streets
to admire the large Neo-Classical
buildings, before absorbing more
of the atmosphere and surroundings
from one of the bustling pavement
cafés. Nearby Rua das Portas de
Santo Antão, a pedestrianized
R U A DA S P O R TA S D E S A N T O A N TÃ O
street where restaurants display
tanks of live lobsters, allows for START
a more leisurely pace.
PRAÇA DOS
The Elevador da Glória funicular RESTAURADORES
goes up the hill towards the Bairro FINISH
Alto, as far as the Miradouro de São
Pedro de Alcântara (p99).
Built by Italian architect
Francesco Fabri, the
magnificent 18th-century
Palácio Foz is now home to
a tourist office.
P R A Ç A D O M
C Â M A R A
This large tree- and café-lined J O Ã O D A
square was named after the
soldiers who gave their lives
during the War of Restoration.
0 metres 50 N Restauradores
0 yards 50


The Neo-Manueline
Rossio station boasts an
eye-catching façade
featuring two Moorish- R U A 1 0 D E D E Z E M B R O
style horseshoe arches.








The ornate
façade of Rossio
railway station
86



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Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho
Gothic Pro, Soho Pro

Museu da Sociedade de Geografia,
a museum with an extensive
collection of items brought back BAIXA AND
from Portugal’s former colonies AVENIDA


Casa do Alentejo, a
spectacularly restored
Alentejan restaurant,
featuring a Neo-Moorish Locator Map
patio and fountain. For more detail see p76


Named after a 15th-
century gate that once
stood here, lively Rua das
T. D E S A N T O A N TÃ O Portas de Santo Antão is
now filled with excellent
seafood restaurants.
R U A DA S P O R TA S D E S A N T O A N TÃ O

Teatro Nacional
Dona Maria II
(p83)
Church of São
Domingos The serene Neo-Moorish
patio at Casa do Alentejo
L A R G O
D O
R E G E D O R
L A R G O D E S Ã O
D O M I N G O S

P R A Ç A D O M
J O Ã O DA
C Â M A R A
R O S S I O ( P R A Ç A Rossio
D O M P E D R O I V )




P R A Ç A DA
F I G U E I R A





R U A 1 0 D E D E Z E M B R O
Rossio
Praça da Figueira
was designed as
the city’s main
marketplace in
Café Nicola
This attractively paved square Pombal’s recon-
is home to cafés, pastelarias struction of
and the National Theatre the area.
on its north side.
87



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4th July 2018
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Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro

Restaurants and bars spilling onto to the lively streets of Bairro Alto



































BAIRRO ALTO

AND ESTRELA



Laid out in a grid pattern in the late 16th century,
the hilltop Bairro Alto was first settled by rich
citizens who moved out of the disreputable
Alfama. By the 19th century it had become a run-
down area, attracting both prostitutes and the
young bohemian set, and it soon developed into
the city’s main nightlife area. Small shops, family-
run tascas (cheap restaurants) and bars moved in
to form a district little changed today.
In contrast, the nearby elegant commercial
district known as the Chiado is home to some of
the city’s oldest shops and cafés. Many of the
area’s original Belle Époque buildings were
destroyed by a fire in 1988, but cleverly restored
by architect Álvaro Siza Viera around the turn of
the century. To the northwest, the Estrela quarter
is centred on a huge domed basilica, built in 1790,
while the smart district of Lapa, to the southwest,
was laid out in the mid-18th century.
89



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AMOREIR AS
AMOREIR AS
T. FÁBRICA DOS PENTES
T. FÁBRICA DOS PENTES
Mãe d'Água
Mãe d'Água
BAIRRO ALTO
BAIRRO ALTO Reservoir Reservoir
AND ESTRELA
AND ESTRELA R U A D E S Ã O F I L I P E N E R I R U A D E S Ã O F I L I P E N E R I
R U A D O M J O Ã O V
R U A D O M J O Ã O V
LARGO LARGO
DO RATO DO RATO
Rato
R . S A R A I V A D E C A R V A L H O
AVENIDA PEDRO ÁLVA RES CABR A
Jardim
Jardim
CAMPO DE
CAMPO DE Rato L RATO RATO Botânico Botânico
Fernando ILVA C A R V A L H O R U A D E R U A D E
Fernando ILVA C A R V A L H O
OURIQUE
OURIQUE R . S A R A I V A D E C A R V A L H O
R. DO ARCO À
RUA ALMEIDA E SOUSA Casa Casa AVENIDA PEDRO ÁLVA RES CABR AL R. DO ARCO À R UA DA ESCOLA ÉCNICA
RUA ALMEIDA E SOUSA
Pessoa Pessoa TR. DE SANTA SÃO MAMEDE SÃO MAMEDE
C. ENG. MIGUEL PAIS POLIT
R U A S R U A S QUITÉRIA QUITÉRIA RUA DA IMPRENSA RUA DA IMPRENSA
TR. DE SANTA
R UA DA ESCOLA
NACIONAL
NACIONAL
RUA DE SÃO MARÇAL
RUA COELHO DA ROCHA A ROCHA S Ã O B S Ã O B C. ENG. MIGUEL PAIS POLITÉCNICA Praça do Praça do RUA DAS TAIPAS Museu da Museu da
RUA COELHO D
Prín
Cemitério Cemitério E E R. DO MONTE OLIVETE R. DO MONTE OLIVETE Príncipe Realcipe Real Sociedade Sociedade
de Geogra a
R U A DA PALME I R A
RUA DAS TAIPAS
dos Ingleses dos Ingleses T. DE SÃO PLACIDO N A RDO N T O N T O R. CECÍLIODE SOUSA R. CECÍLIODE SOUSA RUA D. PEDRO V BAIXA AND de Geogra a
BAIXA AND
RUA FERREIRA BORGES
RUA FERREIRA BORGES
RUA D. PEDRO V
AVENIDA
R U A S A R A I V A RUA D. SEQUEIRA Jardim da Jardim da T. DE SÃO PLACIDO BE R N ARD E S BE R N ARD E S RUA DE SÃO MARÇAL R U A EDUAR D O COELHO A DA PALME I R A da São Pedro AVENIDA p74 Restauradores
D E C A R V A L H O R A I V A
D E C A R V A L H O
Miradouro Miradouro
R U A S A
p74
R. DR. TEOFILO BRAGA RUA D E SANTO AMARO
da São Pedro
R . M AN U E L
RUA N . DA PIEDADE
R . M AN U E L
R U
de Alcântara
de Alcântara
Estrela Estrela
RUA DO PATROCÍNIO
RUA DO PATROCÍNIO ESTREL A TREL A RUA DA ESTELA RUA DA ESTELA R. DE SÃO BERN A RDO R. DR. TEOFILO BRAGA RUA D E SANTO AMARO RUA N . DA PIEDADE T. D A PALMEIRA T. D A PALMEIRA R U A EDUAR D O COELHO R. NOVA DO LOUREIRO RU
R. DE SÃO BER
Restauradores
RUA DA ROSA
Solar do Solar do
ES
ROSSIO
ROSSIO
RUA D. SEQUEIRA
R. DOS FERREIROS
R. DOS FERREIROS
Roque
Roque
Porto
Porto
PEDRO IV) PEDRO IV)
R. S. BOAVENTURA
RU A DO SÉ CULO
B
R.DE S. ANTÓNIO À ESTRELA
R.DE S. ANTÓNIO À ESTRELA da Estrela da Estrela ESTRELA C A L R. DA IMPRENSA À ESTRELA Ç A DA DA EST REL A BENTO BENTO R. DA ACADEMIA DAS BAIRRO AIRRO R. DA CONDESSA R. DA OLIVEIRA
R. DA ACADEMIA DAS CIÊNCIAS CIÊNCIAS
SÃO SÃO
PRAÇA DA PRAÇA DA
ESTRELA
ALTOALTO
Basílica Basílica
Palácio de Palácio de
R. DA BELA VISTA Á LAPA
São Bento
São Bento
Igreja doIgreja do
R. DA CONDESSA
RUA DO POSSOLO RUA DO POSSOLO R U A D E S Ã O C I R O RUA D O S NAVE GANTES O R. DA BELA VISTA Á LAPA R. DE BORGES CARNEIRO A E IRO R U A DA P A Z RUA DA CRUZDOS POIAIS RUA DOS RUA DA CRUZDOS POIAIS RUA DO VALE RUA DOS RUA DO
C A LÇ A DA D
R. DA IMPRENSA À ESTRELA
R. NOVA DA
R. DE BORGES CARNE
R U A D E S Ã O C I R O
RUA ALMEIDA BRANDÃO
R U A DA P A Z
T. DO PINHEIRO
T. DO PINHEIRO
A V E N I D A I N F A N T E S A N T O
RUA ALMEIDA BRANDÃO ST REL A
T. DO CARMO
RUA D.FRANCESINHAS
R. D. DE NOTÍCIAS
R U A D O N O R T E
R. DA OLIVEIRA TRINDADE
R . D A S G ÁV EA S
R . D A S G ÁV EA S
R. NOVA DA TRINDADE
RUA DE SÃO CAETANO B U E N O S A I R E S
T. D O C O M B R O E S
R. DA MISERICÓRDIA
R. DA MISERICÓRDIA
CHIADO
R U E D E
POIAIS D. S. BENTO
POIAIS D. S. BENTO
RUA D O S NAVE GANTES
RUA DE SÃO CAETANO B U E N O S A I R
R. GARRETT
R. GARRETT
CALÇADA DO COMBRO
T. D O C O M B R
CALÇADA DAS NECESSIDADES CALÇADA DAS NECESSIDADES R.ABÍLIO LOPE S DO REGO S A N T O R U E D E RUA DA LAPA R. DOS REMÉDIOS R U A D A S T R INA S R. DO MACHADINHO R. VICENTE
R. ÁUREA (R. DO OURO)
RUA DO LORETO
T. C. DO RIO
T. DO ALCAIDE
T. DO ALCAIDE
R.ABÍLIO LOPE S DO REGO
A V E N I D A I N F A N T E
R.RICARDO ESPÍRIT O SANTO
R.RICARDO ESPÍRIT O SANTO
Baixa-
DOS NEGROS
RUA DA LAPA
Baixa-
Baixa-
Chiado
Chiado
MARIA CARDOSO
Chiado
Chiado
Teatro
Teatro
RUA DE SÃO BE NTO
RU A DO ALEC R I M
RU A DO ALEC R I M
Nacional decional de
Na
R. S. CATARINA
R. S. CATARINA
ElevadorElevador
T.DO MOINHO
RUA MEIO ALAPA
T.DO MOINHO
RUA DAS FLORES
RUA MEIO ALAPA
DE VENTO
RU A D
DE VENTO
São Carlos São Carlos
R U A D O Q U
R U A D A S P R A Ç A S
R U A D A S P R A Ç A S
R U A D O Q U E L H A S E L H A S
da Bica da Bica
R UA F.TOMÁS
R UA F.TOMÁS
R. DO MACHADINHO
R U A I V E N S
R U A I V E N S
Museu Na
R. VICENTE BORGA
Arte Contemporânea
Arte Contemporânea
R. GAIVOTAS
R. GAIVOTAS
RU A DA E M E N DA
RUA DAS FLORES A E M E N DA
R U A D A S T R INA S
R. ANTÓNIO
R. ANTÓNIO
R. D.CORDOEIROS
R. D.CORDOEIROS
R. DA ES P E RANÇA R . DA S MAD RES
R . DA S MAD RES
do Chiado do Chiado
L. DO C. BARÃO
L. DO C. BARÃO
RUA DO SACRAMENTO Á LAPA
RUA DO SACRAMENTO Á LAPA
R U A D A B O A V I S T A
RU A GARCIA DA ORTA
RUA DE SÃO JOÃO DA M
C A L Ç A D A R I B E I R O S A N T O S RQUÊS DE
R. SERPA PINTO
R. SERPA PINTO
R. VITOR COR DON R COR DON
Museu da Museu da
C . DO C. PICÃO
R. DOS REMÉDIOS
RUA DE SÃO JOÃO DA MATA
C . DO C. PICÃO
R. DA ES P
R. VITO
RUA DA MOEDA
RUA DA MOEDA
RUA DO ARSENAL
ABRANTES
ABRANTES
C. MA
RUA DE SÃO FÉLIX
RUA DE S. PAULO
RUA DE SÃO FÉLIX
RUA DE S. PAULO
C A L Ç A D A R I B E I R O S A N T O S
R . J O A Q U I M C A SI M I R O T.DO FERRE IRO I R O R . J O A Q U I M C A SI M RUA DO PAU DA BANDEIRA R U A D O P R I O R RU A D E S Ã O D O M I N G O S DE RU A GARCIA DA ORTA ATA
RUA DE DOM LUÍS I
RUA DE DOM LUÍS I
RUA
T. DE CARVALHO
R.D.SANTOS- O-VELH O
R.D.SANTOS- O-VELH O
T.DO FERRE IRO
L A PA L A PA
Jardim
Jardim
R U A B. COSTA
dom
dom
Luis
Luis
T. DE CARVALHO D. RI BE I R A N OVA
RUA D. RI BE I R A N OVA
RUA DO PAU DA BANDEIRA
R . D O I N S T. I N D U S T R I A L
R . D O I N S T. I N D U S T R I A L
Market Market
AV. DOM CARLOS I
A V E N I D A 2 4 D E
R U A D O P R I O R
AV. RI B E IRA DAS NAUS
TERCEIRA TERCEIRA
AV. RI B E IRA DAS NAUS
A V E N I D A 2 4 D E J U L H O
R UA DAS JAN ELAS VERDES
AVENIDA DE BRASÍLIA
ESC.
ESC.
RU A D E S Ã O D O M I N G O S
Sodré
Sodré
DA PRAIA
R. DO CON
R . D A A R R I A G A
R . D A A R R I A G A R UA DAS JAN ELAS VERDES Santos Santos AVENIDA DE BRASÍLIA Cais do Cais do
R. DO CONDE
R U A DO O LIVAL A V E N I D A 2 4 D E J U L H O Cais do Cais do
R U A DO O LIVAL
R U A R I B E I R O S A N C H E S
R U A R I B E I R O S A N C H E S
Museu Nacional
T
RUA DO OLIVAL
RUA DO OLIVAL Museu Nacional T e jo e jo Sodré Sodré
de Arte Antiga
de Arte Antiga
R.PRESIDENTE ARRIAGA
R.PRESIDENTE ARRIAGA (Tagus) 0 metres 0 metres 250 250 250 N
N 250
C. DA PAMPULH A
(Tagus)
C. DA PAMPULH A
0 yards 0 yards
Cacihas Cacihas Seixal Seixal
090-091_EW_Portugal.indd 90 20/09/2018 17:00

AMOREIR AS
AMOREIR AS
T. FÁBRICA DOS PENTES BAIRRO ALTO AND ESTRELA
T. FÁBRICA DOS PENTES
Mãe d'Água
Mãe d'Água
BAIRRO ALTO
BAIRRO ALTO Reservoir Reservoir Must See w Basílica da Estrela
AND ESTRELA
AND ESTRELA
1 Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga e Time Out Market
Experience More Eat
2 São Roque 1 A Brasileira
R U A D O M J O Ã O V 3 Igreja do Carmo 2 Páteo
R U A D O M J O Ã O V
R U A D E S Ã O F I L I P E N E R I
R U A D E S Ã O F I L I P E N E R I
4 Chiado 3 Cervejaria Trindade
LARGO LARGO
DO RATO DO RATO 5 Teatro Nacional de São Carlos
6 Museu Nacional de Arte Drink
4 Pavilhão Chinês
Contemporânea do Chiado
Rato
Rato L
R . S A R A I V A D E C A R V A L H O
AVENIDA PEDRO ÁLVA RES CABR A
Jardim
Jardim
CAMPO DE RATO RATO Botânico Botânico 7 Museu da Marioneta 5 Cinco Lounge
CAMPO DE
Fernando ILVA C A R V A L H O R U A D E R U A D E 9 Palácio de São Bento Stay
6 Portas Largas
Fernando ILVA C A R V A L H O
OURIQUE R . S A R A I V A D E C A R V A L H O 8 Solar do Vinho do Porto
OURIQUE
0 Praça do Príncipe Real
7 As Janelas Verdes
R. DO ARCO À
RUA ALMEIDA E SOUSA Casa Casa AVENIDA PEDRO ÁLVA RES CABR AL R. DO ARCO À R UA DA ESCOLA ÉCNICA q Jardim da Estrela 8 Hotel do Chiado
RUA ALMEIDA E SOUSA
Pessoa Pessoa TR. DE SANTA SÃO MAMEDE SÃO MAMEDE
R U A S R U A S QUITÉRIA QUITÉRIA RUA DA IMPRENSA RUA DA IMPRENSA
C. ENG. MIGUEL PAIS POLIT
TR. DE SANTA
R UA DA ESCOLA
NACIONAL
NACIONAL
RUA COELHO D
R. CECÍLIODE SOUSA
RUA COELHO DA ROCHA A ROCHA S Ã O B S Ã O B C. ENG. MIGUEL PAIS POLITÉCNICA Praça do Praça do RUA DAS TAIPAS Museu da Museu da
Prín
Cemitério Cemitério E E R. DO MONTE OLIVETE R. DO MONTE OLIVETE Príncipe Realcipe Real Sociedade Sociedade
de Geogra a
R U A DA PALME I R A
dos Ingleses dos Ingleses T. DE SÃO PLACIDO N A RDO N T O N T O RUA DE SÃO MARÇAL RUA DE SÃO MARÇAL R. CECÍLIODE SOUSA RUA D. PEDRO V BAIXA AND de Geogra a
RUA DAS TAIPAS
BAIXA AND
RUA FERREIRA BORGES
RUA FERREIRA BORGES
RUA D. PEDRO V
AVENIDA
D E C A R V A L H O R A I V A RUA D. SEQUEIRA Jardim da Jardim da T. DE SÃO PLACIDO BE R N ARD E S BE R N ARD E S R U A EDUAR D O COELHO A DA PALME I R A da São Pedro AVENIDA p74 Restauradores
R U A S A R A I V A
D E C A R V A L H O
Miradouro Miradouro
R U A S A
p74
R. DR. TEOFILO BRAGA RUA D E SANTO AMARO
R . M AN U E L
da São Pedro
RUA N . DA PIEDADE
R . M AN U E L
R U
de Alcântara
de Alcântara
RUA DO PATROCÍNIO ESTREL A TREL A RUA DA ESTELA RUA DA ESTELA R. DE SÃO BERN A RDO R. DR. TEOFILO BRAGA RUA D E SANTO AMARO RUA N . DA PIEDADE T. D A PALMEIRA T. D A PALMEIRA R U A EDUAR D O COELHO R. NOVA DO LOUREIRO RU A DO SÉ C
Estrela Estrela
RUA DO PATROCÍNIO
R. DE SÃO BER
Restauradores
RUA DA ROSA
Solar do Solar do
ES
ROSSIO
RUA D. SEQUEIRA
ROSSIO
R. DOS FERREIROS
R. DOS FERREIROS
Roque
Roque
Porto
Porto
PEDRO IV) PEDRO IV)
RU A DO SÉ CULO
R. S. BOAVENTURA
B
R.DE S. ANTÓNIO À ESTRELA
R.DE S. ANTÓNIO À ESTRELA da Estrela da Estrela ESTRELA C A L R. DA IMPRENSA À ESTRELA Ç A DA DA EST REL A BENTO BENTO R. DA ACADEMIA DAS BAIRRO AIRRO R. DA CONDESSA R. DA OLIVEIRA
R. DA ACADEMIA DAS CIÊNCIAS CIÊNCIAS
SÃO SÃO
PRAÇA DA PRAÇA DA
ALTOALTO
ESTRELA
Basílica Basílica
Palácio de Palácio de
R. DA BELA VISTA Á LAPA
São Bento
São Bento
Igreja doIgreja do
R. DA CONDESSA
RUA DO POSSOLO RUA DO POSSOLO R U A D E S Ã O C I R O RUA D O S NAVE GANTES O R. DA BELA VISTA Á LAPA R. DE BORGES CARNEIRO A E IRO R U A DA P A Z RUA DA CRUZDOS POIAIS RUA DOS RUA DA CRUZDOS POIAIS RUA DO VALE RUA DOS RUA DO VALE CALÇA
R. DA IMPRENSA À ESTRELA
C A LÇ A DA D
R. NOVA DA
R U A D E S Ã O C I R O
R. DE BORGES CARNE
RUA ALMEIDA BRANDÃO
R U A DA P A Z
T. DO PINHEIRO
T. DO PINHEIRO
A V E N I D A I N F A N T E S A N T O
RUA ALMEIDA BRANDÃO ST REL A
T. DO CARMO
T. DO CARMO
RUA D.FRANCESINHAS
R U A D O N O R T E
R . D A S G ÁV EA S
R . D A S G ÁV EA S
RUA DE SÃO CAETANO B U E N O S A I R E S
T. D O C O M B R O E S
R. DA MISERICÓRDIA
R. DA MISERICÓRDIA
CHIADO
CHIADO
R U E D E
POIAIS D. S. BENTO
POIAIS D. S. BENTO
RUA D O S NAVE GANTES
RUA DE SÃO CAETANO B U E N O S A I R
R. GARRETT
CALÇADA DO COMBRO
R. GARRETT
CALÇADA DAS NECESSIDADES CALÇADA DAS NECESSIDADES R.ABÍLIO LOPE S DO REGO S A N T O T.DO MOINHO R U E D E RUA DA LAPA R. DOS REMÉDIOS R U A D A S T R INA S R. DO MACHADINHO R. VI
T. D O C O M B R
R. ÁUREA (R. DO OURO)
T. C. DO RIO
RUA DO LORETO
T. DO ALCAIDE
T. DO ALCAIDE
R. M. SALDANHA
R.ABÍLIO LOPE S DO REGO
A V E N I D A I N F A N T E
R.RICARDO ESPÍRIT O SANTO
R.RICARDO ESPÍRIT O SANTO
DOS NEGROS
Baixa-
RUA DA LAPA
Baixa-
Baixa-
Chiado
Chiado
MARIA CARDOSO
Chiado
Chiado
Teatro
Teatro
RUA DE SÃO BE NTO
RUA DO P O ÇO
R U A DO ALEC R I M
R U A DO ALEC R I M
Na
Nacional decional de
R. S. CATARINA
R. S. CATARINA
ElevadorElevador
RUA MEIO ALAPA
T.DO MOINHO
RUA MEIO ALAPA
RUA DAS FLORES
São Carlos São Carlos
RU A D
DE VENTO
DE VENTO
R U A D A S P R A Ç A S
R U A D O Q U
R U A D A S P R A Ç A S
R UA F.TOMÁS
da Bica da Bica
R U A D O Q U E L H A S E L H A S
R. DO MACHADINHO
R U A I V E N S
R U A I V E N S
Museu Na
R. VICENTE BORGA
Arte Contemporânea
Arte Contemporânea
R. GAIVOTAS
RU A DA E M E N DA
RUA DAS FLORES A E M E N DA
R U A D A S T R INA S
R. ANTÓNIO
R. D.CORDOEIROS
R. D.CORDOEIROS
R. ANTÓNIO
R . DA S MAD RES
R. DA ES P E RANÇA R . DA S MAD RES
do Chiado do Chiado
L. DO C. BARÃO
L. DO C. BARÃO
RUA DO SACRAMENTO Á LAPA
RUA DO SACRAMENTO Á LAPA
R U A D A B O A V I S T A
C. MARQUÊS DE E RANÇA
RU A GARCIA DA ORTA
RUA DE SÃO JOÃO DA M
R. SERPA PINTO
R. SERPA PINTO
C A L Ç A D A R I B E I R O S A N T O S RQUÊS DE
R. VITOR CORD ON R CORD ON
Museu da Museu da
R. DA ES P
RUA DE SÃO JOÃO DA MATA
R. DOS REMÉDIOS
C . DO C. PICÃO
C . DO C. PICÃO
R. VITO
RUA DA MOEDA
RUA DA MOEDA
RUA DO ARSENAL
Marioneta Marioneta
C. MA
RUA DE SÃO FÉLIX
C A L Ç A D A R I B E I R O S A N T O S
RUA DE SÃO FÉLIX
RUA DE S. PAULO
RUA DE S. PAULO
R . J O A Q U I M C A SI M I R O T.DO FERRE IRO I R O R . J O A Q U I M C A SI M RUA DO PAU DA BANDEIRA R U A D O P R I O R RU A D E S Ã O D O M I N G O S DE RU A GARCIA DA ORTA ATA DA PR
RUA DE DOM LUÍS I
RUA DE DOM LUÍS I
RUA
T. DE CARVALHO
R.D.SANTOS- O-VELH O
T.DO FERRE IRO
L A PA L A PA
Jardim
Jardim
R U A B. COSTA
dom
dom
Luis
Luis
RUA D. RI BE I R A N OVA
T. DE CARVALHO D. RI BE I R A N OVA
RUA DO PAU DA BANDEIRA
R . D O I N S T. I N D U S T R I A L
R . D O I N S T. I N D U S T R I A L
Market Market
AV. DOM CARLOS I
A V E N I D A 2 4 D E
R U A D O P R I O R
AV. RI B E IRA DAS NAUS
AV. RI B E IRA DAS NAUS
TERCEIRA TERCEIRA
A V E N I D A 2 4 D E J U L H O
R UA DAS JAN ELAS VERDES
AVENIDA DE BRASÍLIA
ESC.
RU A D E S Ã O D O M I N G O S
Sodré
DA PRAIA
R. DO CON
Sodré
R . D A A R R I A G A R UA DAS JAN ELAS VERDES Santos Santos AVENIDA DE BRASÍLIA Cais do Cais do
R . D A A R R I A G A
R. DO CONDE
R U A DO O LIVAL
R U A DO O LIVAL A V E N I D A 2 4 D E J U L H O Cais do Cais do
R U A R I B E I R O S A N C H E S
R U A R I B E I R O S A N C H E S
Museu Nacional
T
RUA DO OLIVAL Museu Nacional T e jo e jo Sodré Sodré
RUA DO OLIVAL
de Arte Antiga
de Arte Antiga
R.PRESIDENTE ARRIAGA (Tagus) 0 metres 0 metres 250 250 250 N
R.PRESIDENTE ARRIAGA
N 250
C. DA PAMPULH A
(Tagus)
C. DA PAMPULH A
0 yards 0 yards
Cacihas Cacihas Seixal Seixal
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1 "\-
MUSEU NACIONAL


DE ARTE ANTIGA


EXPERIENCE Bairro Alto and Estrela Portugal’s national art collection is housed in a lemon-yellow 17th-century
 J8 ⌂ Rua das Janelas Verdes @ 613, 714, 727 v 15, 18 # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ museudearteantiga.pt
palace, originally built for the counts of Alvor. Among the exhibits are more
state-designated “national treasures” than anywhere else in the country.

Inaugurated in 1884, the museum is known
garden overlooking the Tagus offers an oasis
of calm, plus an adjoining restaurant that
locally as the Museu das Janelas Verdes, a nod
to the former green windows of the palace. In
serves delicious coffee and pastries. The
1940, an annexe (including the main façade)
works, as well as paintings, artifacts and an
was built on the site of the St Albert Carmelite
monastery, which was partially demolished
extensive collection of jewellery from around
the world. Highlights of the permanent
between 1910 and 1920. All that survived was
collection include the exquisite 16th-century
a chapel, now integrated into the museum museum’s collection emphasizes Portuguese
(although currently closed for restoration). Namban screens, which depict contemporary
After an afternoon’s culture, the magnificent Japanese trade with Portugal.
INSIDER TIP
Into the Gardens
Once you’ve had your
fill of culture amid the
galleries, head for the
sun-dappled gardens,
where sculptures and
sea views create a
relaxing and pleasant
place to unwind.




















The museum’s walls
and pretty gardens,
within which sits a
café (inset)
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Must See












1 2
1 The gallery of Portuguese
painting and sculpture
displays its exhibits in a sparse,
dramatic arrangement.
2 This statue of St Leonard is
by the renowned Florentine
sculptor Andrea della Robbia
(1435–1525).
3 Visitors admire The
Temptation of St Anthony, a
depiction of spirit ual torment
by the Dutch master of
fantasy, Hieronymus Bosch
3 (1450–1516).





40,000

The number of
works of art housed
in the museum.

































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The museum’s bright,
wide galleries lined with
priceless paintings

Exploring the Collections
The museum has the largest collection of paintings in Portugal,
including an extensive treasury of early religious works by Did You Know?
Portuguese artists. The majority of exhibits came from
convents and monasteries following the suppression of Hieronymus Bosch
religious orders in 1834. There are also wide-ranging displays never dated his works,
of sculpture, silverware, porcelain and applied arts, giving an so we can’t be exactly
overview of Portuguese art from the Middle Ages to the sure when they
19th century, complemented by fine European and Eastern were painted.
pieces. The theme of the Discoveries is ever-present, illustrating
Portugal’s links with Brazil, Africa, India, China and Japan.

















Visitors admiring the São Vicente
de Fora polyptych, one of the
museum’s most important pieces
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Must See
European Art
Top Collections from the 14th to the 19th century, hang
▶ Paintings by European artists (right), dating
chronologically on the ground floor. Most of
the works in this section were donated
from private collec tions, contributing
to the great diversity of works on
display. Among the most notable
works are Salomé by Lucus Cranach
the Elder (1472–1553) and The
Temptations of St Anthony by
Hieronymus Bosch (1450–1516).
Portugese Painting
and Sculpture
Many of the earliest works of art are by
the Portuguese primitive painters, who were influenced by
a Flemish trend of realistic detail. Thought to be by Nuno
Gonçalves, the São Vicente de Fora polyptych, which shows
religious, as well as contemporary figures, is an invaluable
historical and social document. The sculpture collection includes
many Gothic polychrome stone and wood statues.
Portuguese and
Chinese Ceramics
The collection of Chinese porcelain and Portuguese faïence
showcases the reciprocal influence between Far Eastern and
Portuguese potters. From the 16th century, Portuguese ceramics
show a marked influence of Ming, and conversely, Chinese pieces
bear Portuguese motifs such as coats of arms. By the mid-18th
century, an increasingly personalized, European style emerged
among Portuguese potters, using popular, rustic designs.
TOP UNMISSABLE
5 EXHIBITS Asian and African Art
The collection of ivories and furniture, with their European
Ivory Salt Cellar motifs, further illustrates the reciprocal influences of Portugal
Portuguese dignitaries and her colonies. The 16th-century vogue for the exotic gave
are carved in ivory on rise to a huge demand for items such as carved ivory hunting
this 16th-century West horns from Africa. The 16th- and 17th-century Japanese
African salt shaker.
Namban screens show the Portuguese trading in Japan.
Namban-jin (barbarians from the south) is the name the
The Chapel Japanese gave to the Portuguese.
of St Albert
Admire the Baroque Silver, Gold
interior, covered in
blue-and-white azulejos. and Jewellery
◀ Among the ecclesiastical
Faïence Violin treasures are King Sancho I’s 1214
Portraits of Italian gold cross and the 1506 Belém
composers decorate monstrance (left). The collection
this ceramic piece. of jewels came from convents,
originally donated by wealthy novices
Salomé on entering religious orders.
Lucus Cranach the
Elder’s study of virtue Decorative Arts
or seductive perversion.
Furniture, tapestries and textiles, liturgical vestments and
The Temptations bishops’ mitres are among the wide range of objects on display.
of St Anthony The furniture collection includes many pieces from Portuguese
A fantastical oil-on- and other European royal courts. Among the textiles are
oak triptych. 17th-century bedspreads, tapestries (many of Flemish origin,
such as the 16th-century Baptism of Christ), embroidered rugs
and Arraiolos carpets.
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EXPERIENCE MORE



the plague. Other features
2 " of the church are the scenes
São Roque of the Apocalypse painted Did You Know?
on the ceiling.
 M6 ⌂ Largo Trindade 3 " Fernando Pessoa liked
EXPERIENCE Bairro Alto and Estrela 8pm Thu); Oct–Mar: 2–6pm Igreja do Carmo commander who became a
Coelho § 213 235 444
to write under distinct
@ 758 # Apr–Sep: 2–7pm
literary personas,
Mon, 9am–7pm Tue–Sun (to
which he called
“heteronyms”.
Mon, 9am–6pm Tue–Sun
¢ Public hols
 M6 ⌂ Largo do Carmo
§ 213 460 473 @ 758 v 28
São Roque’s plain façade belies
q Baixa-Chiado # 10am–
a rich interior. The church was
6pm Mon–Sat (to 7pm Jun–
member of the Carmelite
founded at the end of the 16th
Sep) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec
Order, the church was at one
century by the Jesuit Order,
then at the peak of its power.
Today, the main body of the
Carmelite church built on a
In 1742, the Chapel of St John
slope overlooking the Baixa,
the Baptist was commissioned
church and the chancel, whose
are evocative reminders of the roof withstood the earthquake,
by the prodigal João V from
Italian architects Luigi Vanvitelli The Gothic ruins of this time the biggest in Lisbon.
houses the Museu do Carmo,
dev astation left by the earth­
and Nicola Salvi. Constructed quake of 1755. The church with a small, heterogeneous
in Rome and embellished with collapsed during Mass, depo­ collec tion of sarcophagi,
jewels, precious marbles, gold, siting tons of masonry on to statuary, ceramics and mosaics.
silver and mosaics, the chapel the people below. Founded Among more ancient finds
was given the pope’s blessing in the late 14th century by from Europe are a remnant of
in the church of Sant’Antonio Nuno Álvares Pereira, the a Visigothic pillar and a Roman
dei Portoghesi in Rome, dis­ tomb carved with reliefs
mantled and sent to Lisbon depicting the Muses. There
in three ships. Interior of São Roque, are also finds from Mexico
Among the church’s many the earliest Jesuit and South America, including
tiles, the oldest and most church in Lisbon ancient mummies.
interesting are those in the
third chapel on the right,
dating from the 16th century
and dedicated to São Roque
(St Roch), protector against
















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DRINK


Pavilhão Chinês
This quirky bar is
packed with a bizarre
array of collector’s
items, from dolls to
model planes, and also
features a strong
cocktail list.
 L6 ⌂ Rua Dom
Pedro V 89
§ 213 424 729
Cinco Lounge
Credited with making
cocktails cool in Lisbon,
this smart and very chic
bar offers over 100
options, ranging from
classics to the more
experimental.
 L6  Rua Ruben
A. Leitão 17a
∑ cincolounge.com
Statue of Fernando Portas Largas
4 -- Pessoa outside the café
A buzzy, traditional
Chiado A Brasileira tavern with live music
and well-priced
 M7 @ 758 v 28
q Baixa-Chiado drinkswhere the
depicts Fernando Pessoa, revelry spills out onto
Statues of literary figures can Portugal’s great Modernist the street.
be found in this area, known poet, sitting at a table outside  M6 ⌂ Rua da
for its intellectual assoc­ the café A Brasileira, once a Atalaia 103–105
iations. A bronze statue by favourite rendezvous of the § 218 466 379
sculptor Lagoa Henriques city’s intellectuals.
Rua Garrett, named after
the author and poet João
THE CHIADO FIRE Almeida Garrett (1799–1854),
On 25 August 1988, a descending from Largo do de São Carlos was built in
disas trous fire began in Chiado towards the Baixa, is 1792–5 by José da Costa e
a store in Rua do Carmo, known for its cafés and shops. Silva. Inspired by the design of
the street that links the Devastated by fire in 1988, the great Italian theatres such as
Baixa with the Bairro former elegance of this quarter La Scala in Milan and the San
Alto. Fire engines were has now been restored. Carlo in Naples, the build ing
unable to enter this has a beautifully proportioned
pedestrianized street façade and an enchanting
and the fire spread into 5 ' Rococo interior. Views of the
Rua Garrett. Important exterior, however, are spoiled
18th-century buildings Teatro Nacional by the car park that occupies
were destroyed. The de São Carlos the square in front.
renovation project,  M7 ⌂ Rua Serpa Pinto 9 The opera season lasts
headed by Portuguese @ 758, 790 v 28 q Baixa- from September to June, but
architect Álvaro Siza Chiado ∑ tnsc.pt concerts and ballets are also
Vieira, preserved many staged here at other times of
original façades. Replacing a former opera the year. The opera house is
house that was ruined by the also home to the Portuguese
earth quake of 1755, the Teatro Symphonic Orchestra.
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EXPERIENCE Bairro Alto and Estrela Paintings and sculpture at








Museu Nacional de Arte



to see if a live per formance
6 "-= 7 " Contemporânea do Chiado
is being held on the small
Museu Nacional de Museu da Marioneta stage. There is also a space
Arte Contemporânea for children’s enter tainment
do Chiado  K7 ⌂ Convento das and learning.
Bernardas, Rua da
 M7 ⌂ Rua Serpa Esperança 146 @ 713, 727,
Pinto 4–6 @ 758, 790 760 v 15, 25 q Cais do
v 28 q Baixa-Chiado Sodré £ Santos # 10am–
# 10am–6pm Tue–Sun 6pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 1
¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, May, 24 & 25 Dec STAY
25 Dec ∑ museuartecon ∑ museudamarioneta.pt
temporanea.gov.pt
This small puppet museum, As Janelas Verdes
The National Museum of housed in an elegantly Romantic hotel located
Contemporary Art moved refurbished convent building, in a charming 18th-
to this stylishly restored includes characters from 17th- century townhouse,
warehouse in 1994. The and 18th-century theatre and with stunning river
paintings and sculpture are opera, including devils, knights, views from the top
arranged over three floors in jesters and satirical figures. rooms and library
seven rooms. Each room has Many of the puppets possess terrace.
a different theme illustrating gruesome, contorted features
the develop ment from that are unlikely to appeal to  J8 ⌂ Rua das Janelas
Verdes 47
Romanticism to Modernism. small children. The museum ∑ asjanelasverdes.com
The majority are Portuguese explains the history of the art
works, often showing a form and runs videos of pup- ¡¡¡
marked influence from other pet shows. Check the website
European countries – this is Hotel do Chiado
particularly noticeable in the Part of architect Álvaro
19th-century landscape Siza Viera’s revamp of
painters who had contact with the Chiado district, this
artists from the French slick boutique hotel has
Barbizon School. The few a prime location and a
international works of art on rooftop bar.
display are mainly French  N7 ⌂ Rua Nova do
sculpture from the late 19th Almada 114
century, including one by ∑ hotelchiado.pt
Rodin (1840–1917). There are ¡¡¡
also temporary exhibitions,
which are held for “very new Puppets from the
artists, preferably inspired by collection at Museu
the permanent collection”. da Marioneta
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Ludwig (Ludovice), who built the Benedictine monastery of
GREAT VIEW the monastery at Mafra (p156). São Bento. After the dissolution
Miradouro da The port wine institute of of the religious orders in 1834,
São Pedro de Porto runs a pleasant bar here the building became the seat
Alcântara for the promotion of port. of parliament, known as the
This miradouro boasts Nearly 200 types of port are Palácio das Cortes. The interior
a sweeping vista of listed in the lengthy drinks is grand with marble pillars
eastern Lisbon. A tiled menu, with every producer and Neo-Classical statues.
map, placed against the represented and including
balustrade, helps you some rarities. Unfortunately,
locate the landmarks. many of the listed wines are
The view is most attrac- often unavail able. All but the 10
tive at sunset and by vintage ports are sold by the Praça do Príncipe Real
night, when the castle is glass, with prices ranging
floodlit and the terrace from €1.50 for the simplest  L6 @ 758
becomes a meeting point ruby to €13.30 for a glass of Originally laid out in 1860 as a
for young Lisboetas. 40-year-old tawny. prime residential neighbour-
hood, Praça do Príncipe Real
still retains its charming air of
8 9 ' affluence. Smartly painted
man sions surround a park
Solar do Vinho Palácio de São Bento with a café, statuary and some
do Porto splen did robinia, magnolia
 K6 ⌂ Largo das Cortes
 M6 ⌂ Rua de São Pedro § 213 919 625 @ 790 and Judas trees. The branches
of a huge cedar tree have been
de Alcântara 45 § 213 475 v 28 # By appt last Sat
707 @ 758 v 28 # Elevador of month, 3pm & 4pm; trained on a trellis, creating a
da Glória: 11am–midnight ∑ parlamento.pt wide shady spot for the locals
Mon–Fri, 3pm–midnight Also known as the Assembleia who play cards beneath it.
On the large square, at No 26,
Sat (times may vary, call
ahead) ¢ Public hols da República, this massive the eye-catching white Neo-
white Neo-Classical building Moorish building with domes
The Portuguese word solar started life in the late 1500s as houses a shopping gallery.
means mansion or manor
house and the Solar do Vinho
do Porto occupies the ground Originally laid out in 1860 as a prime
floor of an 18th-century residential neighbourhood, Praça do
man sion. The building was
once owned by the German Príncipe Real still retains its charming
archi tect, Johann Friedrich air of affluence.




















Tree-shaded park at
the heart of Praça do
Príncipe Real
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months. The bandstand was
built in 1884 and originally
stood on the Passeio Público,
before the creation of Avenida
da Liberdade (p82).
The English Cemetery to the
north of the gardens is best
known as the burial place of
Henry Fielding (1707–54), the
EXPERIENCE Bairro Alto and Estrela of 47. The Journal of a Voyage
English novelist and playwright
who died in Lisbon at the age
to Lisbon, published post­
humously in 1775, recounts
his last voyage to Portugal
made in a fruitless attempt
to recover his failing health.


12
The wrought­iron
Basílica da Estrela
band stand at the centre
of Jardim da Estrela
 J6 ⌂ Praça da Estrela
§ 213 960 915 @ 720, 738
v 25, 28 # 9am–1pm,
Local families congregate
11 - here at weekends to feed 3–7:30pm Mon–Fri (to 8pm
Jardim da Estrela the ducks and carp in the Sat & Sun); large groups by
lake, sit at the waterside café appointment
 K6 ⌂ Praça da Estrela or wander among the flower­ In the second half of the 18th
@ 720, 738 v 25, 28
# 7am–midnight daily beds, plants and trees. The century Maria I (p155), daugh ter
formal gardens are planted of José I, vowed she would
Laid out in the middle of with herbaceous borders and build a church if she bore a
the 19th century, opposite shrubs surroun ding plane son and heir to the throne.
the Basílica da Estrela, the trees and elms. The central Her wish was granted and
pop ular gardens are a focal feature of the park is a green construction of the basilica
part of the Estrela quarter. wrought­iron bandstand, began in 1779. Her son José,
Picturesque and serene, they deco rated with elegant however, died of smallpox two
provide an oasis from the filigree, where musicians years before the comple tion
hustle and bustle of the city. strike up in the summer of the church in 1790.
The huge domed Basílica da
Estrela, which is proudly set
CONTEMPORARY on a hill overlooking the west
PORTUGUESE CUISINE of the city, is one of Lisbon’s
Exploding olives and most remarkable land marks.
acorn ice cream are A simpler version of the
some of the unusual basilica at Mafra (p156), this
offerings now found church was built by archi tects
at Lisbon’s innovative from the Mafra School in late­
new restaurants. Spear­ Baroque and Neo­Classical
headed by the likes style. The façade is flanked by
of José Avillez (right), twin bell towers and deco­
creator of Belcanto, the rated with an array of statues
first Lisbon restaurant of saints and allegorical figures.
to earn two Michelin The spacious awe­inspiring
stars, contem porary interior, where light streams
Portuguese dining down from the pierced dome,
focuses on finding is clad in grey, pink and yellow
unexpected, top­quality marble. The elaborate Empire­
local ingredients to lift style tomb of Queen Maria I,
traditional recipes into who died in Brazil, lies in the
something unforgettable. right tran sept. Locked in a
room nearby is Machado de
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