(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

Must See
EXPERIENCE MORE



3
Santo Tirso Did You Know?
! E2 £ @ n Praça 25 de
Abril; 252 830 411 The Trás-os-Montes
Santo Tirso, a major textile region is so remote
centre, lies beside the Ave that it has its own
river. The town’s most notable language, Mirandês.
building is the former monas­
tery of São Bento. Founded
by the Benedictines in the
8th century, the monastery church are an attractive bell
was later rebuilt, then modified tower and the ruins of the
in the 17th century. The pairs monastic cloister.
of columns in the 14th­century Sanfins de Ferreira, 5 km
Gothic cloister are graced with (3 miles) further east, is the
richly carved capitals. hilltop site of a citânia, an
The monastery, which is important Iron Age citadel,
now an agri cultural college, probably inhabited from
also houses the Museu Abade around the 6th century BC.
Pedrosa. The old monastery Traces remain of a triple ring
guesthouse and a modern of defensive walls around
extension converge to provide about 100 huts, and there is
The grand manor bright exhibition space for also a small museum on the
house with its formal sculpture and local archaeo­ site. The guard next door will
gardens (inset)
logical finds, including stone let you in on public holidays.
axes and bronze armlets.
At Roriz, 13 km (8 miles) Museu Abade Pedrosa
east of Santo Tirso, the ⌂ Rua Unisco Godiniz 100
Romanesque church of São § 252 830 400 # Apr–Sep:
Pedro perches above the 9am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, 2–7pm
Vizela valley. A date of 1228 is Sat & Sun; Oct–Mar: 9am–
carved in the porch, although 5:30pm Tue–Fri ¢ Public hols
there are claims that a church
may have stood here as early Sanfins de Ferreira
as the 8th century. Above the ⌂ Sanfins, signposted
portal is a noteworthy rose off N209 § 255 963 643
window. Set apart from the # Tue–Sun


THE CEDAR TUNNEL
This celebrated feature
in the Casa de Mateus
garden was formed
from cedars planted in
1941. It is 35 m (115 ft)
long and 7.5 m (25 ft)
high, the tight-knit
greenery providing
an aro matic walk
in summer. To keep
the tunnel in shape,
gardeners have to scale
specially fashioned The former monastery of
outsized ladders.
São Bento at Santo Tirso,
now a college and museum
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1809


Portuguese soldiers
delayed Napoleon’s
troops at Amarante.
EXPERIENCE Douro and Trás-os-Montes At Tarouquela, around 16 km



(10 miles) west of Cinfães, is
the 12th-century church of
Santa Maria Maior. Roman-
esque columns flank the
portal, while later additions
include the 14th-century
Gothic mauso leum.

between Cinfães and Lamego,
stands another church dedica-
The sactuary of
Nossa Senhora da
ted to the Virgin Mary. Legend
Piedade in Penafiel In the village of Cárquere,
tells how the sickly young
Afonso Henriques, future king
of Portugal, was healed at
4 of rich nobleman Egas Moniz. Cárquere by his devoted aide,
A figure of legendary loyalty,
Penafiel Moniz was counsellor to
Afonso Henriques (1139–85),
! E2 @ n Largo Padre
Américo; 255 710 722 the first king of Portugal.
The granite town of Penafiel Quinta da Aveleda EAT
stands on a hilltop above the " ' ⌂ Signposted from
Sousa river. Apart from an N115 § 255 718 200 Confeitaria da Ponte
elegant Renaissance-style # Mon–Sat (Apr–Oct: daily) With a lovely terrace
Igreja Matriz, there is also a ¢ Public hols right by Amarante’s
sanctuary, Nossa Senhora famous bridge, this café
da Piedade, built in 1908 in a specializes in sweets
curious medley of Neo-Gothic 5 and pastries once made
and Byzantine styles. Penafiel in the local convent.
is chiefly known, however, as Cinfães ! E2 ⌂ Rua 31 de
the regional centre for the ! E2 @ n Rua Capitão Janeiro 186, Amarante
production of vinho verde. Salgueiro Maia; 255 § 255 432 034
One of the region’s foremost 561 230 ¡¡¡
estates producing vinho verde
is Quinta da Aveleda, just Cinfães lies just above the
north of Penafiel. Douro river, tucked below Largo do Paco
Boelhe, around 17 km the foothills of the Serra de This elegant restaurant
(11 miles) south of Penafiel, Montemuro, whose peaks rise boasts a Michelin star
merits a detour for the 12th- over 1,000 m (3,300 ft). The due to the innovative
century church of São Gens. town is a gateway to bustling cuisine by chef André
Only 10 m (33 ft) high, and a Lamego (p254) and the Upper Silva and seasonally
mere 7 m (23 ft) in width and Douro to the east, and is sur- changing tasting
menus.
length, it is claimed to be the rounded by verdant scenery.
smallest Romanesque church Cinfães is an agri cultural ! E2 ⌂ Largo do
in the country. Its simple design centre and local handicrafts Paço 6, Amarante
enhances the aesthetic appeal. include weaving, lacework, ∑ casadacalcada.com
In the 13th-century church basketry, and the production ¡¡¡
of São Salvador at Paço de of miniature rabelos, the boats
Sousa, 8 km (5 miles) south- that used to ship port down
west of Penafiel, is the tomb the river to Porto.
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Egas Moniz. In about 1110, 360 BC. Much of the town was his tomb has been eroded
guided by a dream, Moniz burnt down in 1809, after a through the embraces of
unearthed a buried statue of two-week siege by the French thou sands of devotees.
the Virgin and built a church forces under Marshal Soult. The Museu Amadeo de
for her. Miraculously, his young A recurring name in Souza-Cardoso is housed in
charge was cured overnight. Amarante is that of São the old monastery cloister. One
The present church dates from Gonçalo, who was born at exhibit describes a fertility cult
the 14th or 15th century, but the end of the 12th century. that predates São Gonçalo.
the finest of its treasures is a There are many stories of the The diabo and diaba are a pair
minute ivory carving of the dancing and festivities he of bawdy devils carved in black
Virgin, of unknown date. organized to keep ladies from wood, and are 19th-century
temptation by finding them replacements for an older duo
husbands, and he has become destroyed in the Peninsular
6 associated with matchmaking War. They became the focus of
and fertility. On the first
a local fertility rite, and were
Amarante weekend in June, the Festa de threatened with burning by an
São Gonçalo begins with outraged bishop of Braga; the
! E2 £ @ n Largo
Conselheiro António prayers for a marriage diabo was “castrated” instead.
Cândido; 255 420 246 partner, followed by dancing, The museum’s other prized
music and the giving of phallic- possession is the collection of
The pretty riverside town of shaped São Gonçalo cakes. Cubist works by the artist after
Amarante is one of the gems When the old Roman bridge whom the museum is named.
of Northern Portugal. Rows of across the Tâmega collapsed Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso
17th-century mansions with during floods in the 13th (1887–1918).
brightly painted wooden century, it was São Gonçalo
balconies line Amarante’s who was credited with Museu Amadeo de
narrow streets, and replacing it. The present Souza-Cardoso
restaurants seat diners on Ponte de São Gonçalo " ⌂ Alameda Teixeira de
terraces over hanging the crosses to the 16th-century Pascoães § 255 420 272
river. The origins of the Igreja de São Gonçalo, # Tue–Sun ¢  Public hols
town are uncertain but where his memory lives on.
the first settlement here In the chapel to the left of
was probably around the chancel, the image on

The ornate exterior
(inset) of Amarante’s
Igreja de São Gonçalo




























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frequently in the past from
INSIDER TIP severe floods, and these are
Grape Rails still a threat, although they Grand stairway leading
Take one of Portugal’s have lessened since dams to Nossa Senhora dos
Remédios, Lamego
prettiest train rides were built across the Douro
from Peso da Régua in the 1970s and 1980s.
to Pocinho. You’ll pass Many visitors to Régua often
along the banks of pause here only briefly on their 8
the Douro river and way to explore the “port Mesão Frio
EXPERIENCE Douro and Trás-os-Montes 7 Museu do Douro, which is This scenic gateway to the
through some of the
country”, but budding
! E2 @ n Avenida
area’s dramatically
connoisseurs shouldn’t over­
Conselheiro José Maria
terraced vineyards.
look Peso da Régua. The
Alpoim; 933 911 043
set in a beautifully designed
port­wine­growing region
contemporary building, is
enjoys a fine setting above
of particular interest. Well
Peso da Régua
presented, it portrays the
the Douro. Around it, the
majestic tiers of the Serra do
region’s rich heritage through
! E2 £ @ n Av do Douro;
Marão rise to form a natural
paintings, writings and other
254 318 152
climatic shield for the vineyards
forms of local culture.
Developed from the villages
known for its wickerwork and
of Peso and Régua in the 18th
countryside are some beauti­
a culinary speciality, falachas –
ful quintas, country estates
century, Peso da Régua is the
producing port. The Quinta
major hub for rail and road
or chestnut cakes.
da Pacheca is at Cambres, 4 km The Igreja Matriz of São
connections in the region. Set in the surrounding to the east. Mesão Frio itself is
In 1756, Régua, as the town (2 miles) to the south west. Nicolau was rebuilt in 1877,
is invariably called, was chosen Dating from the 18th century, but has retained its magni­
by the Marquês de Pombal as this winery also produces red ficent late­16th­century ceiling
the centre of the demarcated and white wines. panels, each one bearing the
region for port production. portrait of a saint.
From here, rabelos, the tradi­ Museu do Douro
tional wooden sailing ships, ⌂ Rua Marquês de Pombal
trans ported the barrels of § 254 310 190 # 10am–6pm 9
port through hazardous daily ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec
gorges to Vila Nova de Gaia Lamego
(p234). They continued to ply Quinta da Pacheca ! E2 @ n Rua Regimento
the river even after the advent ⌂ Cambres ∑ quintada de Infantária 9; 254
of the Douro railway in the pacheca.com # Tours by 099 000
1880s. Régua suffered appt only
An attractive town within
the demarcated port area,
Lamego also produces wines,
including Raposeira, Portugal’s
premier sparkling wine. This
fertile region is also known
for its fruit and choice hams.
In its more illustrious past,
Lamego claims to have been
host in 1143 to the first cortes,
or national assembly, which
recognized Afonso Henriques
as first king of Portugal. The
town’s later economic decline
was halted in the 16th century,
when it turned to wine and
textile production, and hand­
some Baroque mansions from
Museu do Douro, set in a
distinct modern building
in Peso da Régua
254
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STAY

Senhora dos Remédios was oldest church in Portugal.
Forte de São built on the spectacular site. Although much modified, the
Francisco The church is reached via an 7th-century sanctuary, of Visi-
Stay inside this 17th- awe-inspiring double stairway, gothic origins, remains. Here,
century fortress in the similar to Braga’s even larger in an ornate tomb, lies Afonso
heart of Chaves. It has Bom Jesus (p276). Its 686 steps Pires, a 14th-century bishop of
been converted into a and nine terraces, embellished Porto. A statue of Nossa
hotel, with its own bar, with azulejos and urns, rise to Senhora do Ó, the pregnant
pool and restaurant. the Pátio dos Reis, a circle of Virgin, is from the 15th century.
! F1 ⌂ Forte de São noble granite figures beneath The 12th-century monastery
Francisco, Chaves the twin-towered church. The of São João de Tarouca, the
∑ fortesaofrancisco.com church itself is of marginal first Cistercian house in Portu-
interest, but there is a well- gal, lies 16 km (10 miles) south
¡¡¡
earned view across the town of Lamego. The interior of the
to the Douro and its tributaries. church has many fine 18th-
Quinta Nova
de Nossa Senhora In early September, pilgrims century azulejo panels, notably
do Carmo arrive in their thousands for those in the chancel depicting
This 18th-century Lamego’s Romaria de Nossa the founding of the monastery,
manor house, in the Senhora dos Remédios, many and in the sacristy, where none
of the 4,709 tiles has the same
of them climbing the steps on
heart of a wine estate, their knees. design. The church also con-
offers vineyard tours
and wine tastings. Lamego’s Gothic cathedral, tains a remarkable St Peter by
There’s a pool and terrific founded in 1129, retains its Grão Vasco. The Count of
views towards the river. original square tower, while Barcelos, bastard son of King
the rest of the architecture
Dinis, is buried here, his tomb
! E2 ⌂ Covas do Douro, reflects modifications between adorned with vigorous scenes
Vila Real ∑ quinta the 16th and 18th centuries, of a boar hunt.
nova.com
including a Renaissance
¡¡¡ cloister with a dozen arches. Nossa Senhora
The Museu de Lamego is dos Remédios
housed in the former bishop’s ⌂ Monte de Santo Estêvão
palace. Pride of place goes to # Daily
the strikingly original Criação
this prosperous period are still dos Animais (Creation of the Museu de Lamego
a feature of the town. Today, Animals), part of a series of " ⌂ Largo de Camões
the main focus of Lamego is altar panels attribu ted to the § 254 600 230 # Daily
as a pilgrimage town. great 16th-century Portuguese ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, Easter, 8 Sep,
A small hilltop chapel, origi- artist Grão Vasco. 25 Dec
nally dedicated in 1391 to At the foot of the valley
St Stephen, became the focus 4 km (2 miles) east of Lamego, São João de Tarouca
of pilgrims devoted to the the Capela de São Pedro de ⌂ Signposted from N226
Virgin, and in 1761 Nossa Balsemão is said to be the § 254 678 766 # Daily
255

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10 The small village of Bisalhães, HIDDEN GEM
6 km (4 miles) to the west
Vila Real of Vila Real, is famed for its Santuário
boldly designed black pottery. de Panóias
 E2 £ @ n Av Carvalho Examples can be seen dis- The Santuário de
Araujo 94; 259 308 170
played for sale at the annual Panóias, east of Vila
Perched over a gorge cut by Festa de São Pedro, cele- Real, was ordered to be
the confluence of the Cabril brated in Vila Real each year built in the 2nd century
by a Roman senator. The
on 28–29 June. Also seen at
and Corgo rivers, Vila Real is
EXPERIENCE Douro and Trás-os-Montes convenient starting point from 11 original claim to fame – vinho
carved stones and ruins
this time is the fine linen
a busy commercial centre. As
seen today were part of
from nearby Agarez.
the communications hub of
three temples. The large
the Upper Douro, it makes a
granite boulders were
once the site of sac ri­
which to explore the valley
fices to Serapis – the
of the Douro to the south and
Greco­Egyptian god
Serra do Barroso
the Parque Natural do Alvão to
of life and death.
the northwest. Vila Real also
 E1 @ From Montalegre
has a motor-racing circuit,
or Boticas n Terreiro do
which hosts major events each
Açougue, Montalegre;
year during June and July.
276 510 205
Midway along the broad
main street, Avenida Carvalho
buried underground for up to
two years – which is why they
Araújo, is the 15th-century
Nacional da Peneda-Gerês
(p270) is the wild and remote
Sé. This fine Gothic cathedral
are called mortos (“dead”) –
was originally the church of a Just southeast of the Parque dos mortos. Bottles of wine are
Serra do Barroso. The land-
a practice that originated to
Dominican friary. The other scape of heathery hill sides hide it from the invading
monastic buildings burnt down is split by the immense enemy (p258).
in suspicious circumstances in Barragem do Alto Rabagão, The area’s principal town
the mid-19th century. the largest of many reservoirs is Montalegre, on a plateau
At the southern end of the in the area created by the to the north. Its most notable
avenue, a plaque on the wall damming of rivers for hydro- feature is the imposing keep,
at No 19 marks the birthplace electric power. Water is a 27 m (88 ft) high, of the ruined
of Diogo Cão, the explorer main stay of the local econ- 14th-century castle.
who discovered the mouth omy: a high rainfall enables Oxen are bred in the Serra,
of the Congo in 1482. farmers to eke out an exis- and inter-village chegas dos
The Igreja dos Clérigos, in tence on the poor soil, and bois (ox fights) are a popular
nearby Rua dos Combatentes the artificial lakes attract pastime. The contest is usually
da Grande Guerra, is also fishing and water sports decided within half an hour,
known as Capela Nova. It enthusiasts. The source of when the weaker ox takes
presents a pleasing Baroque one of the country’s most to its heels.
façade attributed to popular bottled mineral
Nicolau Nasoni and waters is at Carvalhelhos.
an interior of fine Nearby, the village of The bell tower of Vila
blue-and-white Boticas produces a Real’s 15th­century
azulejos. beverage with a more Gothic cathedral




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The historical centre
of Chaves, the
thermal spa town

12
Chaves
! F1 @ n Paço dos Duques
de Bragança; 276 348 180
Beside the upper reaches of
the Tâmega stands historic
Chaves, attractively sited in
the middle of a fertile plain.
Thermal springs and nearby
gold deposits encouraged the
Romans to establish Aquae
Flaviae here in AD 78. Its
strategic position led to 14th-century keep overlooking time of the Emperor Trajan. Its
invasions and occupation by this pleasant medieval square construction brought added
the Suevi, Visigoths and Moors, is all that remains of the castle importance to Chaves as a
before the Portuguese gained given to Nuno Álvares Pereira staging post on the route
final possession in 1160. by João I. On the south side of be tween Braga and Astorga
Today Chaves is renowned the square stands the Igreja (in northwestern Spain). On the
for its spa and historic centre, Matriz with its fine Roman- bridge are Roman milestones
and for its smoked hams. The esque portal. The Baroque that record that funds to build
distinctive black pottery that Misericórdia church opposite it were raised locally.
is a curiosity of the north is has an exquisite interior lined A short walk from the city
made in nearby Nantes. with 18th-century azulejos. centre is one of the hottest
The old town centres on the Attributed to Policarpo de thermal springs in Europe.
Praça de Camões, where the Oliveira Bernardes, the huge Water here bubbles up at a
panels depict scenes from temperature of 73°C (163°F)
the New Testament. and the spa’s facilities attract
TOP DOURO VALLEY
5 VINEYARDS Within the castle keep is both holiday-makers and
patients seeking treatment.
the Museu Militar, where
suits of armour, uniforms Chaves water is recommended
Quinta da Pacheca and associated regalia are for the healing of ailments as
One of the valley’s oldest on dis play. Also exhibited are diverse as rheumatism, hyper-
vineyards (www.quinta military memor abilia from tension and kidney problems.
dapacheca.com). the city’s defence against the
attack by Royalists from Spain Museu Militar and Museu
Quinta de Vargellas in 1912. In the flower-filled da Região Flaviense
This large vineyard is garden surrounding the keep " ⌂ Praça de Camões
owned by Taylor’s are a few archaeo logical finds § 276 340 500 # Daily
(www.taylor.pt). from Chaves’s long history, ¢ Public hols
but most are to be found in
Quinta das Carvalhas the Museu da Região Thermal Springs
As well as tastings, this Flaviense behind the keep. ⌂ Largo da Caldas § 276
estate has great views Here, in the Paço dos Duques 332 445 # Daily
(254 738 050).
de Bragança, are dis played a
variety of local archaeological
Quinta do Panascal discoveries. Items of interest
Produces the famed
Fonesca port wines include sou venirs of the Roman Did You Know?
(www.fonseca.pt). occupation, such as milestones
and coins, alongside an oxcart Chaves is a corruption
Quinta do Seixo and a straw mantle of the type of Aquae Flaviae,
Home to the famed worn by shepherds for pro- named after its patron,
Sandeman brand tection in the rain or hot sun. Emperor Titus Flavius
(www.sandeman.com). The 16-arch Roman bridge Vespasianus.
across the Tâmega was com-
pleted around AD 100, at the
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EXPERIENCE Douro and Trás-os-Montes 13 at twilight, from across girth of 2.8 m (9 ft). The role




Cityscape of Mirandela
the Tua river

but the family was accused of
attempted regicide in 1759 and of berrões, as beasts such as
Mirandela
but they may have been linked
! F1 £ @ n Rua Dom
Museu Municipal Armindo
to fertility cults. In more recent
Afonso III; 278 203 143
Teixeira Lopes
times the Murça porca has
been pressed into service at
Mirandela, at the end of the all trace of them was erased. these are called, is enig matic,
⌂ Rua João Maria Sarmento
defunct Tua narrow-gauge rail- Pimentel § 278 201 590 elections, when the winning
way line, has pretty gardens # 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm political parties would paint it
running down to the river and Mon–Fri, 2:30–6pm Sat in their colours.
an elegant Roman bridge with ¢ Public hols The Misericórdia chapel is
20 asymmetrical arches. Built notable for its early-Baroque
for the deployment of troops façade, ornamented with
and to aid the transport of 14 designs of vines and grapes.
ore from local mines, it was
rebuilt in the 16th century and Murça
is now for pedestrians only. ! F2 @ n Alameda do 15
Displayed in the Museu Paço; 259 510 120
Municipal Armindo Teixeira Parque Natural
Lopes are sculptures, prints The market town of Murça is de Montesinho
and paintings, including views famed for its honey, goat’s ! F1 @ From Rio de Onor &
of Mirandela by the local 20th- cheese and sausage. Its major Vinhais n Parque Florestal,
century artist after whom the attraction, and the focal point Bragança; 273 300 400
museum is named. of the garden in the main
The 17th-century town hall square, is its porca, an Iron Age This wild reserve covers 700
once belonged to the Távoras, granite pig with a substan tial sq km (270 sq miles) be tween
Bragança and the Spanish
border. The region, under-
LOCAL WINES stand ably, is known as Terra
The granite pig in the town of Murça lends its name to the Fria (Cold Land). Bleak moun-
local Porca de Murça wine – one of the Douro’s oldest wine tains rise to 1,481 m (4,859 ft)
brands. As well as trying this wine in local restaurants and above heather and broom,
bars, you should also ask for vinho dos mortos (wine of the descending to oak forests and
dead). In 1809, locals buried their wine rather than have it valleys of alder and willow.
fall into the hands of the Amazing views of the park
invading French. When can be enjoyed from Vinhais,
Napoleon’s troops on its southern fringe, and the
departed, the “dead” wilderness attracts walkers,
wine was retrieved bikers and horse riders.
and found to have The population clusters in
improved. The practice farming communities on the
continues to this day. lowlands, leaving much of the
mountain range an
undisturbed habitat for rare
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mishap, compounded by the
transfer of the bishopric to
Bragança, led the town into a
deep economic decline, only
halted by trade links with the
coast and Spain.
The lovely twin-towered
Sé was founded in the 16th
century. The cathedral’s most
orig inal fea ture is a wooden
figure of the boy Jesus in the
south transept. The Menino
Jesus da Cartolinha represents
a boy who, legend tells,
appeared during a Spanish
siege in 1711 to rally the
demoralized Portuguese to
EAT miraculous victory. Devotees
dressed the statue in 17th-
16 century costume and later
Adega do Faustino Miranda do Douro gave him a top hat (cartolinha).
The excellent Museu da
This former wine Terra de Miranda houses an
merchant’s store is lined ! G1 @ n Largo do Menino eclectic display of archaeo-
with giant barrels. It Jesus da Cartolinha; 273 logical finds, folk costume, a
offers a wide range of 430 025
tasty pesticos (tapas), as reconstruction of a Mirandês
well as grilled fish and This medieval outpost stands farmhouse parlour and curious
meats, and of course on top of the Douro gorge, rural devices such as an
wines, at bargain prices. which here forms an abrupt in flated pig’s-bladder cosh.
Just southwest of Miranda,
border with Spain. Its key
! F1 ⌂ Travessa position and the establishment the village of Duas Igrejas is
Cândido dos Reis,
Chaves ¢ Sun of a bishopric here in 1545 famed for its stick dancers, or
∑ adegafaustino.pt paved the way for the town’s pauliteiros, who perform at
development into the cultural local festivals and overseas.
¡¡¡ and religious centre of Trás-
os-Montes. In 1762, during the Museu da Terra
Flor de Sal Seven Years’ War against de Miranda
This elegant, France and Spain, the powder " ⌂ Largo Dom João III
contemporary store exploded, claiming 400 § 273 417 288 # 2–6pm Tue,
restaurant serves lives and destroying the castle 9am–1pm, 2–6pm Wed–Sun
award-winning cuisine (only the keep remains). This ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec
based on fresh local
ingredients. Sit on the
riverside deck.
! F1 ⌂ Parque Dr José
Gama, Mirandela
§ 278 203 063
¡¡¡




species such as wolves and
golden eagles.
Little changed from medie-
val times, villages such as
França and Montesinho are
typical in their stone houses,
wooden balconies and cobbled
streets. Ancient practices such Local pauliteiros (stick
as her bal cures and reverence dancers) performing in
for the supernatural linger. the village of Duas Igrejas
259



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17 18 GREAT VIEW
Mogadouro Torre de Moncorvo Barragem
de Miranda
! F2 @ n Avenue dos ! F2 @ n Rua dos Take a boat trip down
Comandos; 279 340 501) Sapateiros 15; 279 252 289
the Douro from the
Located on the Spanish Famed for the white mantle quay near the Barragem
border, Mogadouro can be of almond blossom that de Miranda. This very
pleasant 90-minute
traced back to prehistoric
fleetingly covers the valleys
EXPERIENCE Douro and Trás-os-Montes ments that dot the landscape. Moncorvo offers an atmos- collection of open-air Stone
trip takes you along a
in early spring (egg-shaped
times. The town’s history is
dramatic gorge. Visit
evident in the number of
amêndoas cobertas, sugared
www.europarques.com
almonds, are an Easter treat),
Neolithic fortified settle-
for further details.
Apart from the hilltop
pheric stroll through its
maze of medieval streets
tower, little remains of the
all year round. The town’s
great castle founded here by
name is variously attributed
Age rock art. Discovered in
King Dinis and presented to
to a local noble man, Mendo
the Templars in 1297. From
1933 and estimated to be
Curvo, or perhaps to his
the top of the tower there
20,000 years old, it features
are fine views over the little
bulls, horses, fish and a naked
raven (corvo).
market town of Mogadouro,
century Igreja Matriz, which is
which is known for its
Vila Nova de Foz Côa, Castelo
handicrafts, par ticularly
Melhor and Muxagata offer
the largest in Trás-os-Montes,
boasts a 17th-century altar-
leather goods.
several guided tours a day
piece depicting scenes from
Mogadouro’s 16th-century The ponderous 16th- man, the Homem de Pisco.
into the Parque Arqueológico
Igreja Matriz, rising on the the life of Christ. do Vale do Côa, and visits
north slope of the castle, The fate of the Côa valley, must be booked in advance.
features a 17th-century bell south of Moncorvo, was finally The Museu do Côa houses
tower, while lavishly gilded decided in 1996 when plans some interesting art and
retables from the 18th for a dam were dropped to archaeological exhibits on
century decorate the altars. preserve the world’s largest the Côa valley.
Parque Arqueológico do
From the top of the tower there are fine Vale do Côa/Museu do Côa
views over the little market town of " ' ⌂ Rua do Museu, Vila
Mogadouro, which is known for its Nova de Foz Côa # Daily
¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec
handicrafts, par ticularly leather goods. ∑ arte-coa.pt








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Did You Know?
The Portuguese word
oxalá, meaning “if only”,
comes from the Arabic
insha’allah, meaning “if
Allah wishes it”.



19
Freixo de
Espada à Cinta
! F2 @ n Praça Jorge
Álvares; 279 653 480
Several stories try to explain
the curious name of this
remote border town. “Ash tree
of the girt sword” may derive
from the arms of a Spanish
nobleman, or a Visigoth called
Espadacinta, or from a tale
that, when founding the town
in the 14th century, King Dinis
strapped his sword to an ash.
Dominating the skyline is
the heptagonal Torre do Galo,
a relic from the 14th-century
de fences. Views from the
top are splendid, especially
in spring when the almond
blossom puts on a show, which
attracts a great many visitors.
The cultivation of silkworms
here is a revival of the 18th-
century industry, and a visit to father of the poet Guerra Rich interior of the
the Museu da Seda Junqueiro, and aims to Igreja Matriz, at Freixo
e do Território (Silk and highlight the importance de Espada à Cinta
Territory Museum) offers an of preserving rural life.
insight into this important The intricate 16th-century
tradition. Multimedia exhibits portal of the Igreja Matriz THE DOVECOTES
explain the entire silk process leads into a splendid small- OF MONTESINHO
from the planting of the mul- scale version of Belém’s Doves supply not only
berry tree to the final product. Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (p108). food but also droppings,
Visitors can purchase hand- Panels of the altarpiece, attri- which are highly prized
made pieces. The museum buted to Grão Vasco, include as fertilizer. In the
also houses interesting a fine Annunciation. Parque Natural de
ethnographic, archaeological Montesinho (p258), the
and geological collections. Torre do Galo traditional horseshoe-
Museu Regional Casa ⌂ Praça Jorge Álvares shaped dovecote or
Junqueiro, on Rua de São # Daily pombal is still a familiar
Francisco, occupies the home sight. The birds nest in
of José António Junqueiro, Museu da Seda rough cells inside the
e do Território whitewashed schist
" ⌂ Largo do Outeiro walls and enter through
§ 279 658 160 # Apr–Sep: gaps in the roof. They
The centre of Torre de 9am–12:30pm, 2:30–6pm are fed via a raised
Moncorvo, set in a lush Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 9:30am– door at the front.
green valley 12:30pm, 2–5:30pm
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THE STORY OF PORT
The “discovery” of port dates from the STYLES OF PORT
17th century, when British merchants Tawny
added brandy to the wine of the north ern Quality tawny port is
Douro region to prevent it souring in transit. matured in oak casks
They found that the stronger and sweeter in port lodges. It may
be a blend of red and
the wine, the better flavour it acquired.
EXPERIENCE Douro and Trás-os-Montes The climax of the Douro farmers’ year comes Deep red in colour, this
white ports.
HOW PORT IS MADE
Ruby Port
port has been aged
in late Septem ber, when bands of pickers
two or three years
congregate to harvest the grapes. More than
and should be full of
40 varieties are used for making port, but
lively fruit flavour.
there are five recommended varieties. The
grapes are then either tread in stone tanks (or
White Port
lagares) to extract the juice or fermented in
cement or steel tanks. Next comes the for­
Made from white
grapes, this beverage
tification process, where brandy – actually
grape spirit – is added. This arrests the fermen­
may be sweet or not
so sweet and is mainly
ta tion, leaving the wine naturally sweet.
drunk chilled.
Vintage
Made from wines of a
single year, the liquid
is blended and bottled
after two years and
left to mature.
Late Bottled Vintage
LBV is a wine of a
single year, bottled
between four and
six years after
Testing port aged in oak barrels the harvest.
at the Symington estate
A quinta The Douro river Terraced
(wine estate) winds through vineyards
the valley.




1963


Perhaps the
greatest post­war
port vintage.
The undulating terraced
hills of the Douro Valley, the
home of port production


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Striking river views
from a restaurant
terrace in Pinhâo

p promenade. Many of these from verdant, cultivated
eateries boast superb views
lowlands to bleak heights that
Pinhão of the steep terraced slopes reach 1,339 m (4,393 ft) at Alto
where the vines are cultivated. das Caravelas. Despite hunters
! F2 £ Pinhão
and habitat encroach ment,
Attractively set by a broad hawks, dippers and otters can
stretch of the Douro river, 21 still be spotted here. Be tween
pretty Pinhão is a major stop the picturesque hamlets of
for cruise boats. But don’t let Parque Natural Ermelo and Lamas de Olo,
this put you off – this town is do Alvão where maize is still kept in
a gateway to Port country. ! E2 @ From Ermelo espigueiros (p270), the Olo
Close to some of the region’s via Campeã n Lago dos river drops in a spectacular
best port producers, this is Freitas, Parque Natural cascade known as the Fisgas
the perfect place to pause if do Alvão; 259 302 830 de Ermelo waterfalls. This
you are visiting a vineyard for area is one of the most
a tour or staying at a quinta Within the 72 sq km stunning parts of the park.
(wine-growing estate). (28 sq miles) of this nature From Alto do Velão, just
The wonderful Linha do re serve between the Corgo southwest of the park, are
Douro – one of the country’s and Tâmega rivers, the splendid views west over the
most spectacular rail routes – scenery ranges dramatically Tâmega valley.
passes through Pinhão on its
way from Porto. Even if you
don’t arrive by train, take a
look at the town’s pretty little
station, which is decorated
with 24 dazzling azulejo panels.
These blue-and-white scenes
depict local life, including the
grape harvest.
Pinhão may be sleepy, but it
does have a few restaurants
and bars near the riverside


The rugged, untouched
landscape of the Parque
Natural do Alvão
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A DRIVING TOUR
PORT COUNTRY TRÁS-OS-MONTES 0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 3 3 3 N 3 N
0 miles
0 miles
DOURO AND
Port Country
Length 125 km (78 miles) Stopping-off points Peso da Tour
Régua; Pinhão; Sabrosa Terrain Beyond Pinhão, steep, For more detail see p246
narrow roads can make the going slow
EXPERIENCE Douro and Trás-os-Montes on the wine estates (quintas) of the Upper The ex plorer Magellan was São Lourenço de Sanfins do Sanfins do Senhorada Senhorada
The barrels of port maturing in the port lodges
Locator Map
of Vila Nova de Gaia (p234) begin their life here,
Douro. Centuries of toil on the poor schist have
The village of Sabrosa,
created thou sands of terraces along the steep
which is set among
vineyards, has a wealth
river banks, many no wider than a person’s
of 15th-century houses,
outstretched arms. Many vine yards have had
some of which are hotels.
São Lourenço de
their terraces widened to allow tractor access,
Ribapinhão
Ribapinhão
but some of the oldest ones are protected
born here in about 1480.
as part of the cultural heritage. Many quintas,
Douro
Douro
including those shown on the map, welcome
Piedade
Piedade
Maior
Maior
783 m
783 m
visitors for port-tasting. Early autumn is the most
rewarding time to tour; workers sing as they pick,
and celebrate a good vindima or harvest.
826 m
826 m
São São Souto Souto Cheires Cheires CampoMeão CampoMeão Alijó Alijó
Martinhode Martinhode Sabrosa Sabrosa
Anta Anta Soutelinho Soutelinho
Favaios Favaios
São Mamede
São Mamede
de Ribatua de Ribatua
Quinta do Casal de Celeirós
Quinta do Casal de Celeirós
Begin your tour at Peso Quinta do Portal São Domingos
São Domingos
Quinta do Portal
da Régua which has Agudo Agudo Quinta do Bucheiro Pinhão Pinhão 708 m 708 m Tua Tua
Quinta do Bucheiro
been an adminis tra tive 729 m 729 m Castanhei Castanheiroro Parambos Parambos
centre for port since Paços Paços Bandeira Bandeira
675 m
675 m
1756. The rabelos Paradela de Paradela de Infantado Infantado Vale de Vale de
Guiães
Guiães
moored here are a Abaças Abaças 808 m 808 m Mendiz Mendiz Castedo Castedo
reminder of how port Vilarinho de Vilarinho de Cotas Ribalonga Ribalonga
Cotas
Cotas
Cotas
used to be trans ported. Guiães Guiães Provesende Provesende São Cristó São Cristóvãovão
do Douro do Douro Tua Tua Linhares Linhares
Casal de Loivos
Vila Seca Vila Seca São Domingos Casal de Loivos
São Domingos
863 m 863 m Castelo Castelo
Gouvães do Gouvães do Pinhão Pinhão Douro Douro Soutelo do Soutelo do Nagozelo do 729 m 729 m
Nagozelo do
Douro
Douro
Covas do Douroro
Galafura Galafura Covas do Dou Douro Douro J J Douro Douro
Nossa Senhoradas
Vilarinho dos Nossa Senhoradas
Vilarinho dos
Loureiro Loureiro São Leonardo Gouvinhas Neves Neves
São Leonardo Gouvinhas
Freires Freires Monteiras 487 m 688 m 688 m
Monteiras 487 m
Godim Godim Poiares Poiares 640 m 640 m Quinta do Quinta do Casais do Dou Quinta do Quinta do
Casais do Douroro
START Crasto Crasto Castelinho Castelinho
Fontelas Fontelas Ferrão Ferrão J J
Ervedosa do
Peso da Régua Douro Douro Ervedosa do Douro
Peso da Régua
Douro
Barragem da Valeiraaleira
Covelinhas Covelinhas São João da Barragem da V
São João da
Douro Douro Quinta Quinta Torto Torto Pesqueira Pesqueira
São Luís São Luís J J
Folgosa Folgosa Quinta do Quinta do Espinho Espinho
Cambres Cambres Adorigo Adorigo Panascal Panascal
Parada do Parada do
Bispo Bispo
Seixo Seixo
565 m 565 m
Terraced vineyards
tumbling down the
Douro Valley to the
pretty village of
Peso da Régua
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0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 3 3 N N JOSEPH JAMES FORRESTER,
PORT BARON
0 miles 0 miles 3 3
In 1831, Joseph Forrester arrived from Britain
to join his uncle’s wine company in Porto, and
enthusiastically set about reforming the port
trade. In his 1844 treatise, A Word or Two on
Port, he waged war on shippers who adulter­
ated the wine. He also studied the vine blight,
Alijó was officially founded in
1226, but a number of castros Oidium tuckeri and drew up detailed maps of
(hill forts) in the area tell of the Douro valley. His contribution was such
habitation from a much earlier that in 1855 Pedro V bestowed on him the title
date. The name of the pousada of Barão. In 1862, Forrester’s boat capsized at
here, the Barão de Forrester, Cachão de Valeira. Dragged down by his money­
recalls the famous reformer. belt, he drowned, but the ladies in his company
survived, buoyed up by their crinolines.
São Lourenço de
São Lourenço de
Ribapinhão Ribapinhão
Sanfins do Sanfins do Senhorada Senhorada
Souto Souto Douro Douro Piedade Piedade Tua, in a region famous for its
Maior Maior 783 m 783 m
luscious oranges and figs, has
long been a junc tion on the
CampoMeão CampoMeão Alijó Alijó
Cheires Cheires 826 m 826 m Douro railway line, which winds
São São its way through the vineyards.
Martinhode Martinhode Sabrosa Sabrosa
Anta Anta Soutelinho Soutelinho
Favaios Favaios
São Mamede
São Mamede
de Ribatua de Ribatua
Quinta do Casal de Celeirós
Quinta do Casal de Celeirós
São Domingos
São Domingos
Quinta do Portal 708 m 708 m
Quinta do Portal
Quinta do Bucheiro
Agudo Agudo Quinta do Bucheiro Pinhão Pinhão Tua Tua
729 m 729 m Castanhei Castanheiroro Parambos Parambos
Paços Paços Bandeira Bandeira
Paradela de
Paradela de 675 m 675 m
Abaças Abaças Guiães Guiães Infantado Infantado Vale de Vale de
808 m 808 m Mendiz Mendiz Castedo Castedo
Vilarinho de
Vilarinho de Ribalonga Ribalonga
Provesende Provesende Cotas Cotas Cotas Cotas
Guiães Guiães São Cristó São Cristóvãovão
do Douro do Douro Tua Tua Linhares Linhares
Casal de Loivos
Vila Seca Vila Seca São Domingos Casal de Loivos
São Domingos
863 m 863 m Castelo Castelo
Gouvães do Pinhão
Gouvães do Pinhão Douro Douro Soutelo do Soutelo do Nagozelo do 729 m 729 m
Nagozelo do
Douro
Douro
Covas do Douro
Galafura Galafura Covas do Douro Douro Douro J J Douro Douro
Nossa Senhoradas
Vilarinho dos Nossa Senhoradas
Vilarinho dos
Loureiro Loureiro São Leonardo Gouvinhas Neves Neves
São Leonardo Gouvinhas
Freires Freires Monteiras 487 m 688 m 688 m
Monteiras 487 m
Godim Godim Poiares Poiares 640 m 640 m Casais do Douro Quinta do Quinta do
Casais do Douro
Quinta do Quinta do Castelinho Castelinho
Crasto Crasto
Fontelas Fontelas Ferrão Ferrão J J
Ervedosa do
Peso da Régua
Peso da Régua Douro Douro Ervedosa do Douro
Douro
Barragem da Valeiraaleira
Covelinhas Covelinhas São João da Barragem da V
São João da
Douro Douro Quinta Quinta Torto Torto Pesqueira Pesqueira
São Luís São Luís J J
Folgosa Folgosa Quinta do Quinta do Espinho Espinho
Cambres Cambres Adorigo Adorigo Panascal Panascal FINISH
Parada do Parada do
Bispo Bispo
Seixo Seixo
565 m 565 m
Until the end of the
18th century the Douro
Many of the most famous
names in port production was unnavigable
beyond Cachão de
have quintas close to the End your tour looking Valeira and it was on
small town of Pinhão. Its out from São João da
railway station is adorned Pesqueira’s viewpoint, these rapids that Baron
with 24 dazzling azulejo São Salvador do Mundo. Forrester met his death.
The water was tamed
panels depicting local In early spring the by the Barragem de
scenes and folk culture. landscape foams with
almond blossom. Valeira dam in 1976.
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The colourful São João festival in Braga, in memory of St John the Baptist





























MINHO



The province of Minho occupies land between the
Douro river in the south and the Minho river in the
north. Fortified hilltop stone forts (castros) remain
as evidence of the Neolithic history of the region.
When Celtic peoples migrated into the area in the
first millennium BC, these sites developed into
citânias (settle ments) such as Briteiros.
In the 2nd century BC, advancing Roman legions
con quered the land, introduced vine-growing
techniques and constructed a network of roads.
When Christianity became the official religion of
the Roman Empire in the 4th century AD, Braga
became an important religious centre, a position
it holds to this day. The Suevi swept aside the
Romans in the 5th century, followed by the
Visigoths, who were ousted in turn by the Moorish
invasion of 711. The Minho was won back from
the Moors in the 9th century. The region rose to
prominence in the 1100s under Afonso Henriques,
who pro claimed himself the first king of Portugal
and chose Guimarães as his capital.
Since then, the Minho has been the territory of
farmers and the region’s fertile farms and estates
have been handed down within families for
centuries, each heir traditionally receiving a
share of the land.
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Albeos Albeos
Celanova Celanova
São São
Baiona Baiona Lourido Lourido Gregório Gregório
Gondomar Gondomar Melgaço Melgaço
Salceda de Caselas
As Mariñas As Mariñas Salceda de Caselas
MINHO MINHO As Neves As Neves Rio Trancoso Rio Trancoso
S P
O Lugar O Lugar
Penso Penso S P A I N A I N
Rio Minho Rio Minho
Tui Tui
MONÇÃO MONÇÃO Castro Castro
Cubalhão Cubalhão Laboreiro Laboreiro
VALENÇA Sago Sago Lamas de Lamas de
VALENÇA
Vilameán Vilameán Mouro Mouro Bande Bande
DO MINHO
Oia Oia DO MINHO Pias Pias
Merufe Merufe
Tomiño Tomiño Cerdal
Barrio Barrio São PedroSão Pedro Cerdal Farnadeiros Farnadeiros
Novo Novo da Torre da Torre
Senhora Senhora
Sistelo
Portela doPortela do Sistelo Serra da Peneda Serra da Peneda
da Penedada Peneda
Vila Nova Vila Nova Insalde Insalde Extremo Extremo Valoiro Valoiro
de Cerveira de Cerveira
São BentoSão Bento Cabreiro Cabreiro
A Guarda A Guarda Sapardos Sapardos
Fondevila Fondevila
Paredes Paredes
Lanhelas Lanhelas de Coura de Coura Tourém Tourém
Covas Covas Seia Seia Gondoriz Gondoriz Mezio
Mezio
CAMINHA Vilar de Vilar de Soajo Soajo
CAMINHA
Mouros
Foz do Minho Mouros Romarigães Romarigães Lindoso Lindoso Pitões Pitões
Foz do Minho
V
Moledo Moledo Arga de Arga de V I A N A I A N A Rio Frio Rio Frio Britelo Britelo PARQUE NACIONAL DA PENEDA-GERÊS
S e rra do Gerês
São João São João Arcos de Arcos de
D O C A S
D O C A S T E L O T E L O Valdevez Valdevez
Vila Praia de Âncora Orbacém Orbacém Entre Entre
Vila Praia de Âncora
S erra S erra Bravães Bravães Ambos-os-Rios Portela doPortela do
d o Arga
d o Arga
Ambos-os-Rios
PONTE DA
Afife Afife PONTE PONTE PONTE DA Homem Homem S e rra do Gerês Outeiro Outeiro
DE LIMA DE LIMA BARCA BARCA
PARQUE NACIONAL DA PENEDA-GERÊS
Campo do Gerês
Sta. Comba Sta. Comba Campo do Gerês Paradela Paradela
A tl
A tl antic antic Montedo Montedo Outeiro Outeiro Rio Lima Rio Lima Portela Portela Caldas Caldas DOURO AND
DOURO AND
Correlha Correlha
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
Oc
Oc eanean Perre Perre Lanheses Lanheses do Vade do Vade do Gerês do Gerês TRÁS-OS-MONTES
Queijada Queijada Terras do Terras do Cabril Cabril p244 p244
Bouro Bouro
Vilar da Veiga
VIANA DO CASTELO Vilar da Veiga
VIANA DO CASTELO
B
Rio Caldo Rio Caldo
Cabedelo Cabedelo Darque Darque Deocriste Deocriste Corvos Corvos B R A G A R A G A Salamonde Salamonde
Caldelas Caldelas Venda Nova Venda Nova
Caniçada Caniçada
BarroselasBarroselas Vila Verde Vila Verde
Amares Amares Cerdeirinhas Cerdeirinhas Vieira do Vieira do
Balugães Balugães Minho Minho
Castelo doCastelo do Loueira Loueira
Neiva Neiva
Prado Prado Rio Cávado Rio Cávado
Palme Palme Póvoa de Póvoa de Serra do Barroso
Serra do Barroso
Mar Mar Lanhoso Lanhoso Rossas Rossas
Abade do Neiva BOM JESUS Eiró Eiró
BOM JESUS
Abade do Neiva
DO MONTE
BARCELOS Eirôgo Eirôgo BRAGA BRAGA DO MONTE Arosa Arosa
BARCELOS
MINHO Esposende Esposende Rio Cávado Martim Martim CITÂNIA DE ÂNIA DE CABECEIRAS
CIT
CABECEIRAS
BRITEIROS
Rio Cávado
BRITEIROS
DE BASTO
Must Sees Fão Fão Vila Seca Vila Seca Freitas Freitas Baúlhe DE BASTO
1 Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês Tebosa Tebosa Caldas das Caldas das Moreira Moreira Baúlhe Cerva Cerva
Taipas
Taipas
São Torcato São Torcato
2 Viana do Castelo Nine Nine de Rei de Rei
GUIMARÃES
Necessidades
3 Braga Estela Estela Necessidades GUIMARÃES Fafe Fafe R i o Tâmega R i o Tâmega
4 Bom Jesus do Monte
Rates Rates Vermoin Vermoin Penha Penha
Experience More A Ver-o-Mar A Ver-o-Mar Vila Nova de Vila Nova de Mondim de Basto
Mondim de Basto
5 Guimarães Póvoa de Póvoa de Rio Mau Rio Mau FamalicãoFamalicão Riba d’AveRiba d’Ave Celorico de Basto
Celorico de Basto
Caldas de Caldas de
6 Citânia de Briteiros Varzim Varzim Ribeirão Ribeirão Vizeia Vizeia FelgueirasFelgueiras
7 Cabeceiras de Basto VILA DO CONDE Ermelo Ermelo
VILA DO CONDE
8 Barcelos Árvore Árvore Rio Ave Rio Ave Santo Tirso Santo Tirso
9 Ponte de Lima DOURO AND Longra Longra Vila Cova de Lixa
Vila Cova de Lixa
DOURO AND
10 Ponte da Barca TRÁS-OS-MONTES
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
11 Caminha Mindelo Mindelo p244 p244
w Monção Paços de Ferreira Amarante Amarante
Paços de Ferreira
13 Valenca do Minho
14 Vila do Conde Francisco Sá Francisco Sá 0 kilometres 0 kilometres 10 10 N N
Carneiro Airpor
Carneiro Airpor
Perafita Perafita
Penafiel Penafiel 0 miles 0 miles 10 10
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Albeos Albeos
Celanova Celanova
São São
Baiona Baiona Lourido Lourido Gregório Gregório
Gondomar Gondomar Melgaço Melgaço
Salceda de Caselas
As Mariñas As Mariñas Salceda de Caselas
MINHO MINHO As Neves As Neves Rio Trancoso Rio Trancoso
S P
O Lugar O Lugar
Penso Penso S P A I N A I N
Rio Minho Rio Minho
Tui Tui
MONÇÃO MONÇÃO Castro Castro
Cubalhão Cubalhão Laboreiro Laboreiro
VALENÇA Sago Sago Lamas de Lamas de
VALENÇA
Vilameán Vilameán Mouro Mouro Bande Bande
DO MINHO
Oia Oia DO MINHO Pias Pias
Merufe Merufe
Tomiño Tomiño Cerdal
Barrio Barrio São PedroSão Pedro Cerdal Farnadeiros Farnadeiros
Novo Novo da Torre da Torre
Senhora Senhora
Portela doPortela do Sistelo Serra da Peneda Serra da Peneda
Sistelo
da Penedada Peneda
Vila Nova Vila Nova Insalde Insalde Extremo Extremo Valoiro Valoiro
de Cerveira de Cerveira
São BentoSão Bento Cabreiro Cabreiro
A Guarda A Guarda Sapardos Sapardos
Fondevila Fondevila
Lanhelas Lanhelas Paredes Paredes Tourém Tourém
de Coura de Coura
Mezio
Covas Covas Seia Seia Gondoriz Gondoriz Mezio
CAMINHA Vilar de Vilar de Soajo Soajo
CAMINHA
Mouros
Foz do Minho
Foz do Minho Mouros Romarigães Romarigães Lindoso Lindoso Pitões Pitões
V
S e rra do Gerês
Moledo Moledo Arga de Arga de V I A N A I A N A Rio Frio Rio Frio Britelo Britelo PARQUE NACIONAL DA PENEDA-GERÊS
São João São João Arcos de Arcos de
D O C A S T E L O T E L O Valdevez Valdevez
D O C A S
Vila Praia de Âncora Orbacém Orbacém Entre Entre
Vila Praia de Âncora
S erra S erra Bravães Bravães Ambos-os-Rios Portela doPortela do
d o Arga
d o Arga
Ambos-os-Rios
PONTE DA
Afife Afife PONTE PONTE PONTE DA Homem Homem S e rra do Gerês Outeiro Outeiro
PARQUE NACIONAL DA PENEDA-GERÊS
DE LIMA DE LIMA BARCA BARCA
Campo do Gerês
Sta. Comba Sta. Comba Campo do Gerês Paradela Paradela
A tl antic antic Montedo Montedo Outeiro Outeiro Rio Lima Rio Lima Portela Portela Caldas Caldas DOURO AND
A tl
DOURO AND
Correlha Correlha
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
Oc
Oc eanean Perre Perre Lanheses Lanheses do Vade do Vade do Gerês do Gerês TRÁS-OS-MONTES
Queijada Queijada Terras do Terras do Cabril Cabril p244 p244
Bouro Bouro
Vilar da Veiga
VIANA DO CASTELO Vilar da Veiga
VIANA DO CASTELO
B
Rio Caldo Rio Caldo
Cabedelo Cabedelo Darque Darque Deocriste Deocriste Corvos Corvos B R A G A R A G A Salamonde Salamonde
Caldelas Caldelas Venda Nova Venda Nova
Caniçada Caniçada
BarroselasBarroselas Vila Verde Vila Verde
Amares Amares Cerdeirinhas Cerdeirinhas Vieira do Vieira do
Balugães Balugães Minho Minho
Castelo doCastelo do Loueira Loueira
Neiva Neiva
Prado Prado Rio Cávado Rio Cávado
Palme Palme Póvoa de Póvoa de Serra do Barroso
Serra do Barroso
Mar Mar Lanhoso Lanhoso Rossas Rossas
Abade do Neiva BOM JESUS Eiró Eiró
BOM JESUS
Abade do Neiva
DO MONTE
BARCELOS Eirôgo Eirôgo BRAGA BRAGA DO MONTE Arosa Arosa
BARCELOS
CIT
Esposende Esposende CITÂNIA DE ÂNIA DE
CABECEIRAS
Rio Cávado Rio Cávado Martim Martim BRITEIROS CABECEIRAS
BRITEIROS
DE BASTO
Freitas Freitas DE BASTO
Fão Fão
Vila Seca Vila Seca Caldas das Caldas das Baúlhe Baúlhe
Tebosa Tebosa Taipas Taipas Cerva Cerva
Nine Nine São Torcato São Torcato Moreira Moreira
de Rei
de Rei
GUIMARÃES
Necessidades
Necessidades GUIMARÃES Fafe Fafe
Estela Estela R i o Tâmega R i o Tâmega
Rates Rates
Vermoin Vermoin Penha Penha
Mondim de Basto
A Ver-o-Mar A Ver-o-Mar Mondim de Basto
Vila Nova de Vila Nova de
Celorico de Basto
Rio Mau Rio Mau FamalicãoFamalicão Celorico de Basto
Caldas de Caldas de
Póvoa de Póvoa de Riba d’AveRiba d’Ave
Varzim Varzim Vizeia Vizeia FelgueirasFelgueiras
Ribeirão Ribeirão Ermelo Ermelo
VILA DO CONDE Rio Ave Rio Ave
VILA DO CONDE
Árvore Árvore Santo Tirso Santo Tirso
Longra Longra Vila Cova de Lixa
DOURO AND
DOURO AND Vila Cova de Lixa
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
p244 p244
Mindelo Mindelo
Paços de Ferreira
Paços de Ferreira
Amarante Amarante
Francisco Sá Francisco Sá 0 kilometres 0 kilometres 10 N
Carneiro Airpor
Carneiro Airpor 10 N
Perafita Perafita
Penafiel Penafiel 0 miles 0 miles 10 10
268-269_EW_Portugal.indd 269 20/09/2018 17:01

1 "
PARQUE NACIONAL


DA PENEDA-GERÊS


EXPERIENCE Minho Melgaço to Castro Laboreiro & Lamas de Mouro n Caldas do Gerês: on main road (253 391
! E1 @ From Braga to Caldas do Gerês; from Arcos de Valdevez to Soajo & Lindoso; from
133); Lamas do Mouro: next to camp site; Arcos de Valdevez: Rua Professor Dr Mário Júlio
Almeida Costa (258 520 530) ∑ natural.pt
Portugal’s first national park, Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês preserves not just
the country’s precious flora and fauna, but also the unique way of life of the people
who live in the 100 or so granite villages that pepper the landscape. Don’t miss the
tomb-like espigueiros (granaries).
Peneda-Gerês National Park, one of Portugal’s greatest
natural attractions, stretches from the Gerês mountains in INSIDER TIP
the south to the Peneda range and the Spanish border in the Spa Break
north. Established in 1971, it extends over about 720 sq km Known since Roman
(277 sq miles) of wild, dramatic scenery, with rocky windswept times for its spa, Caldas
peaks, and lush valleys of oak, pine and yew. It also hosts a do Gerês is a great
rich variety of fauna, including rare wolves, deer and eagles. place to recharge your
On top of these natural wonders, the park offers historic batteries after hiking
monasteries, good walking trails along a Roman road, and in the park. Our choice
picturesque traditional villages. The park’s long-distance from the many options
footpath is well signposted (in parts); is the luxurious Águas
six sections are limited to do Gerês hotel (www.
groups of between aguasdogeres.pt).
10 and 15 people.



























Overlooking the Vilarinho das
Furnas reservoir in the Parque
Nacional da Peneda-Gerês, which
is also home to waterfalls (inset)
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Must See


Did You Know?
Espigueiros are raised
to keep grain and
maize out of reach of
rodents, and slatted
for ventilation.



1 The traditional village of
Soajo, surrounded by terraced
hillsides, is known for its 1 2
collection of espigueiros. The
village’s local festival takes
place in the middle of August.
2 Sections of the old Roman
road that ran from Braga to
Astorga in Spain can still be
seen at points along the
Homem river valley.
3 Surrounded by massive
rocks, Nossa Senhora da
Peneda is an elaborate
sanctuary. If it looks familiar,
it is because it is a replica of
Bom Jesus do Monte (p276).
The site is visited in early
September by pilgrims from
all over the region. 3



































271



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HIDDEN GEM
Anciet Ruins
Behind the Pousada
Monte de Santa Luzia,
at the top of the hill,
EXPERIENCE Minho (citânia), dating from
you’ll find traces of a
Celtiberian settlement
the 4th century BC.
Wander along the
boardwalk, admiring
the ancient stones.








































Did You Know?

The Templo do Sagrado
Coração de Jesus was
modelled on Paris’s
Sacré Coeur.
The striking Templo do
Sagrado Coração de Jesus
atop Monte de Santa Luzia
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Must See
2
VIANA DO


CASTELO


! D1 £ Largo da Estação n Viana Welcome Centre, Praça do Eixo-Atlântico;
258 098 415; www.portoenorte.pt
With winding streets and intimate squares, Viana do Castelo is an
appealing destination. Both a busy fishing port and holiday resort,
the town is also the capital of Minho folk culture, playing host to lively
festivals and supporting a thriving handicrafts industry. The main
attraction in Viana do Castelo, however, is Monte de Santa Luzia,
whose peak overlooks the town.
Viana do Castelo lies in a beautiful setting on
the Lima estuary. This 13th-century town
gained prominence as a fishing centre in the
1400s; later it provided ships and seafarers
for the great maritime discoveries of the
16th century (p44). From here, João Velho set
off to explore the Congo, and João Álvares
Fagundes charted the rich fishing grounds
of Newfoundland. Wealth derived from trade
with Europe and Brazil funded the town’s
many opulent mansions built in Manueline, 1
Renaissance and Baroque styles.
Monte de Santa Luzia
To enjoy exceptional views, take the zigzag
road to Monte de Santa Luzia, 5 km (3 miles)
north of the town centre, or save your legs by
riding the funi cular. Perched on the mountain
is the Templo do Sagrado Coração de Jesus, an
extravagant Neo-Byzantine basilica completed
in 1926. The steep climb to the top of its
graffitti-scrawled dome is rewarded by
superb panoramas. Behind the church 2
you can wander along woodland paths
or visit the Pousada Monte de Santa Luzia.


Caramuru by José
Rodrigues (2008) in
Praça da República



3
1 Praça da República, Viana’s main square, is
full of café tables and overlooked by the Paços
do Concelho, which was once the town hall.
2 On 23 August of each year, people process
through the streets of Viana do Castelo during
the Nossa Senhora da Agonia Festival.
3 Monte de Santa Luzia is the perfect place
to go for a beautiful sunset panorama.
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EXPERIENCE Minho








Garden in the middle Did You Know?
of the Romanesque
Sé‘s cloisters
The Archbishop of
Santiago stole Braga’s
precious relics in the
3 12th century because
BRAGA city’s status.
he was jealous of the

! E1 £ Largo da Estacão @ Praça da Galiza n Avenida da 2 "
Liberdade 1; 253 262 550
Palácio dos Biscainhos
Churches, grand 18th-century houses and pretty
gardens characterize Braga’s centre. The city hosts ⌂ Rua dos Biscainhos
§ 253 204 650 # Tue–Sun
some of Portugal’s most colourful festivals. Semana
Santa is celebrated with dramatic, solemn processions, To the west of the city centre
while the festival of São João in June is a lively affair. is the Palácio dos Biscainhos. R U A DA F EI R A
Built in the 16th century and R U A D A F E IRA DE MATOS
Central de
modified over the centuries, it AVE ANTÓNIO MACEDO LOUR EIRA RUA A BADE Camionagem
The cathedral also houses the is adorned by painted blue-
1 " Treasury or Museu de Arte and-white azulejos depicting RUA SÃO MARTINHO RUA GABRIEL PERREIRA DE CASTRO
AV. GEN. NORTON
Sé Sacra, which contains a rich PRAÇA DO COMÉRCIO RUA DE SÃO VICENTE R U A SÃO BA R N ABÉ
collection of ecclesiastical Mercado
⌂ Rua Dom Paio Mendes RUA CAMPO DAS PARRETAS
§ Museu de Arte Sacra: 253 treasures as well as statues, PRAÇA DO COMÉRCIO RU A DO CARVALHAL
263 317 # Daily carvings and azulejo tiles. DRINK RUA DO FERRAZ DO CARMO RUA RUA DE SANTO ANDRÉ
Several chapels can be seen
Braga’s cathedral, the oldest in the courtyard and cloister. T ÚNEL DA PRAÇA CONDE DE AGROLONGO
in Portugal, was begun in the The Capela dos Reis houses Café Brasileira R UA DA BOAVI STA RUA SÃO MARTINHO PRAÇA PRAÇA RUA DOS CHÃOS
CONDE DE
11th century, when Henry of the tombs of the founders, Sip drip-brewed coffee CONSELHEIRO AGROLONGO Bom Jesus do Monte
TORRES
Burgundy decided to build on Henry of Burgundy and his at historic Brasileira. CIRCULAR NORTE DE BRAGA DE ALMEIDA R . DOS CAPELIST AS 4 km (2 miles)
the site of an older church, wife Dona Teresa, as well as Furnished in 19th- R U A DA B OAV I S TA Igreja do R U A D E SA N TO A NTÓ Jardim de AVENIDA CENTRAL
Santa
Bárbara
destroyed in the 6th century. the preserved body of the century salon style, this Mosteiro Palácio dos Pópulo Antigo Paço JUSTINO CRUZ Torre de PRAÇA DA
Biscainhos
REPÚBLICA
Since then the Romanesque 14th-century archbishop Dom café opened in 1907 as a de Tibães R UA IRMÃOS R O B Y Episcopal Menagem AVE. CENTRAL
building has seen many Lourenço Vicente. wholesale coffee shop Palácio dos Câmara MUNICIPAL R U A D O S O U T O
Jardim do
PRAÇA N IO
Igreja dos
Café
changes, including the After admiring the interior where patrons were Biscainhos Municipal R U A D I O G O D E S O U S A Brasileira Congregados
addition of a graceful galilee of the cathedral, walk around offered a cup of Capela dos
Coimbras
(porch) in the late 15th the outside of the building to steaming coffee with R U A A N D R A D E C O R V O Sé RUA DE SÃO JOÃO R. S. MARCOS AVE DA LIBERDADE
century. Outstanding features Rua de São João. Here, on the their purchase of LARGO DA CAMPO DAS RUA DO CABIDO FORNO R. DO LARGO
HORTAS
include the chapel to the cathedral’s wall, you will find a coffee beans. ESTAÇÃO CARLOS
AMARANTE
Capela de
right, just inside the west statue of Nossa Senhora do ⌂ Largo do Barão de RUA DO VISCONDE RUA DOM FREI CAETANO BRANDÃO R U A DOM AFO NSO HE N R I QUES Conceiçao
DE PINDELA
door, housing the ornate Leite (Our Lady of the Milk), São Martinho 17 Museu R U A D O A NJO Santa
Cruz
Pio XII
15th-century tomb of the symbol of the city of Braga, § 253 262 104 LARGO R. DOS FALCÕES
first-born son of João I, Dom sheltered under an ornate Railway R U A C A R D O S O R U A C R U Z D A P E D R A RUA DO MATADOURO R . JE RO N I M O P IM E NT E L SÃO TIAGO Palácio
Station
do Raio
LARGO
Afonso, who died as a child. Gothic canopy. R U A D E C A I R E S RUA SÃO PAULO SANTIAGO 0 metres 250 N
A V E L I N O
Capela de
274 São Sebastião RUA DO ALCAIDE 0 yards 250
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Must See

INSIDER TIP
Take a Picnic
Just north of the city
centre is the town
Mercado (market)
where you can buy
regional produce and
delicacies. Pick up some
picnic supplies here
and have lunch in the
landscaped Jardim
de Santa Bárbara,
admiring the Antigo
Paço Episcopal. The Jardim de Santa Bárbara in the shadow
of the Antigo Paço Episcopal
hunting scenes. An unusual 3 Beside it are the immaculate
detail is the ribbed, paved gardens of the Jardim de
ground floor, which was Antigo Paço Episcopal Santa Bárbara. Landscaped
designed to allow carriages ⌂ Praça Municipal in 1955, its design reflects
inside the building to deposit ¢ To the public the romanticism of the
guests and drive on to the Estado Novo period (p46).
stables beyond. Near the Sé you’ll find the The gardens are laid out in
This imposing aristocratic former archbishop’s palace. geometric patterns, with
mansion now houses the city’s The façades of this once grand box hedges, topiary and a
Museu Etnográfico e Artístico building date from the 14th, statue of its namesake, Saint
(Ethnography and Arts 17th and 18th centuries, but Barbara, at its centre. One
Museum), with fascin ating a major fire destroyed the particularly striking feature is
displays of Roman relics, as interior in the 18th century. the broken ruins of an arcade
well as furniture dating from The palace is now used as a which once ran along the
the 17th to 19th centuries. private library and archives. exterior of the palace.

AVE ANTÓNIO MACEDO LOUR EIRA RUA A BADE Camionagem DE MATOS
R U A D A F E IRA AV. GEN. NORTON
RUA GABRIEL PERREIRA DE CASTRO
R U A DA F EI R A
Central de
PRAÇA DO COMÉRCIO
Mercado RUA DE SÃO VICENTE R U A SÃO BA R N ABÉ
RUA SÃO MARTINHO
PRAÇA DO COMÉRCIO RU A DO CARVALHAL
RUA DO FERRAZ DO CARMO RUA RUA DE SANTO ANDRÉ
RUA CAMPO DAS PARRETAS
CIRCULAR NORTE DE BRAGA RUA SÃO MARTINHO CONSELHEIRO R U A D E SA N TO A NTÓ AGROLONGO R . DOS CAPELIST AS RUA DOS CHÃOS Bom Jesus do Monte
T ÚNEL DA PRAÇA CONDE DE AGROLONGO
PRAÇA
PRAÇA
CONDE DE
R UA DA BOAVI STA
TORRES
DE ALMEIDA
4 km (2 miles)
Jardim de
AVENIDA CENTRAL
Santa
R U A DA B OAV I S TA
R UA IRMÃOS R O B Y Jardim do MUNICIPAL Episcopal
Mosteiro Palácio dos Igreja do Bárbara Torre de PRAÇA DA
Pópulo
de Tibães Biscainhos Antigo Paço JUSTINO CRUZ Menagem REPÚBLICA AVE. CENTRAL
Câmara
PRAÇA N IO
Palácio dos
Igreja dos
Café
R U A D I O G O D E S O U S A Capela dos
Biscainhos Municipal R U A D O S O U T O Congregados
Brasileira
Coimbras
R U A A N D R A D E C O R V O Sé RUA DE SÃO JOÃO R. S. MARCOS AVE DA LIBERDADE
LARGO DA CAMPO DAS RUA DO CABIDO FORNO LARGO
HORTAS
R. DO
ESTAÇÃO CARLOS
AMARANTE
RUA DO VISCONDE RUA DOM FREI CAETANO BRANDÃO R U A DOM AFO NSO HE N R I QUES R U A D O A NJO Santa Capela de
DE PINDELA
Conceiçao
Museu
Cruz
R U A C R U Z D A P E D R A R . JE RO N I M O P IM E NT E L RUA SÃO PAULO SANTIAGO 0 metres 250 N
LARGO
Railway A V E L I N O RUA DO MATADOURO SÃO TIAGO Pio XII R. DOS FALCÕES Palácio
Station do Raio
LARGO
R U A C A R D O S O
Capela de
São Sebastião RUA DO ALCAIDE 0 yards 250
R U A D E C A I R E S
274-275_EW_Portugal.indd 275 20/09/2018 10:41

4 \-
BOM JESUS 577


DO MONTE The number of steps
on the Escadaria.
EXPERIENCE Minho to the top § 253 676 636 # Daily
! E1 ⌂ 5 km (3 miles) E of Braga @ From Braga  Funicular
On a forested slope east of Braga stands Portugal’s most
spectacular religious sanctuary. Ascend the zig-zagging staircases,
passing tiny chapels on the way, to the church of Bom Jesus.

In 1722, the archbishop of Braga devised the
giant Baroque Escadaria (stairway) of Bom
Jesus as the approach to a small existing The exterior
of Bom Jesus,
15th-century shrine. The stairway and the with its two
church of Bom Jesus were completed by Carlos
Amarante in 1811. The lower section features bell towers,
a steep Sacred Way with chapels showing the at the top
of the
14 Stations of the Cross, the scenes leading up Escadaria
to Christ’s crucifixion. The Escadório dos Cinco
Sentidos, in the middle section, depicts the
five senses with ingenious wall fountains and
statues of biblical, mythological and symbolic
figures. This is followed by the similarly
allegorical Staircase of the Three Virtues.
At the summit, an esplanade provides
superb views and access to the church. Close Chapel of the
by are several hotels, a café and a boating lake Road to Calvary
hidden among the trees. Both a pilgrimage
site and tourist attraction, the sanctuary
attracts large festive crowds at weekends.
Chapel of the
Flagellation


Chapel of the
Kiss of Judas











Funicular





The hydraulically operated funicular,
which dates back to 1882, on the Chapel of Christ's Chapel of the
ascent to the church Agony in the Garden Last Supper
276



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Must See
Chapel of the
Descent of the Cross
Church of
Bom Jesus
Hotel do
Elevador








Chapel
of the
Crucifixion




Pelican fountain
Staircase of the
Three Virtues
The Staircase of the Five Senses
represents sight, hearing, smell,
taste and touch.


The chapels, fountains and
Escadaria statues lining the Escadaria
of Bom Jesus do Monte





Chapel of Simon
the Cyrenian



Chapel of Jesus
before Pilate









Chapel of the
Crown of Thorns


Chapel of Darkness
The granite and whitewashed
Escadaria, at sunset
277



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EXPERIENCE MORE



5 later and, according to legend,
it was the birthplace of Afonso
Guimarães Henriques, Portugal’s first king.
The font where he was said to
! E1 £ Avenida Dom João have been baptized is kept in
EXPERIENCE Minho Santiago; www.guimaraes of São Miguel, situated at the
IV @ Alameda Mariano
the tiny Romanesque chapel
Felgueiras n Praça de
western end of the castle.
turismo.com
Constructed in the
15th century by Dom Afonso
A UNESCO World Heritage
Site, the town of Guimarães is
Burgundian style of the Paço
celebrated as the birthplace
dos Duques reflects Dom
of the nation. When Afonso (first duke of Bragança), the
Henriques proclaimed himself Afonso’s taste acquired on his
king of Portugal in 1139 (p43), travels through Europe. The Ruins of the settlement
he chose Guimarães as his palace fell into disuse when at the archaeological site
capital, and the dis tinctive the Bragança family moved of Citânia de Briteiros
outline of its proud castle to Vila Viçosa (p300). In 1933,
appears on the Portuguese under Salazar’s dicta torship
coat of arms. (p46), it was reno vated as an Found ed by Afonso Henriques,
The narrow streets of the official presidential residence. the church was restored by
medieval quarter are ideal for The Museu de Alberto João I in gratitude to Our Lady
exploration on foot. The Sampaio, housed in the of the Olive Tree for his victory
cobbled Rua de Santa Maria, Romanesque cloister and at Aljubarrota.
lined with old townhouses adjoining rooms of Nossa Named after the famous
embellished with ornate Senhora da Oliveira, displays archaeologist, the Museu
statuary, leads up from the some outstanding religious Martins Sarmento is housed
main square, the Largo da art, azulejos and ceramics, all in the Gothic cloister of the
Oliveira, past the Paço dos from local churches. The star 14th-century convent of São
Duques to the Castelo de exhibits, donated to the church Domingos. Specializing in finds
Guimarães. The castle’s huge by João I, are his tunic worn from excavated sites, some
square keep, encircled by at the battle of Aljubarrota dating from the Stone Age, the
eight crenellated towers, in 1385 (p173), and a 14th- museum contains a wealth of
dominates the skyline. First century silver altar piece, archaeo logical, ethnological
built to deter attacks by comprising a triptych of the and numismatic exhibits. These
Moors and Normans Visitation, Annunciation and include a rare pair of Lusitanian
in the 10th Nativity, reportedly taken from granite warriors (p42).
century, Henry the defeated Spanish king. Built in 1400 in Gothic style,
of Burgundy The former monastery (Nossa the elegant church of São
extended it Senhora da Oliveira) lies on Fran cisco was reconstructed
two centuries the square’s east side. in the 18th century. The interior
of the church boasts a chancel
covered in magnificent 18th-
century azulejos with scenes
from the life of St Antony.
The former mon astery of
Santa Marinha da Costa is
one of Portugal’s top pousadas.
It stands 5 km (3 miles) south-
east of Guimarães, and was
foun ded in 1154. The gardens
and chapel are open to
the public.
Castelo de Guimarães
" ⌂ Rua Conde Dom
Stately Largo do Toural in Henrique § 253 412 273
Guimarães, dating from # 10am–6pm daily ¢ 1 Jan,
the 18th century Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec
278



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STAY
Paço dos Duques
" ⌂ Rua Conde Dom 6 "
Henrique § 253 412 273 Citânia de Briteiros Casa do Outeiro
# Daily ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, ! E1 ⌂ 15 km (9 miles) N of Just northwest of Ponte
1 May, 25 Dec de Lima (p281), this
Guimarães, off N101 § 253 16th-century manor
Museu de Alberto 415 969 @ From Guimarães house was used as the
headquarters for
Sampaio & Braga # Apr–Sep: 9am– invading French forces
6pm daily (to 5pm Oct–Mar)
" ⌂ Rua Alfredo Guimarães during the Napoleonic
§ 253 423 910 # 10am–6pm This Iron Age settlement is one Wars. It is packed full
Tue –Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, of Portugal’s most impressive of historic charm.
1 May, 25 Dec archaeolo gical sites. It was
excavated by Martins ! E1 ⌂ Outeiro,
Nossa Senhora da Oliveira Sarmento (1833– 99), who Arcozelo ∑ solares
deportugal.pt
⌂ Largo da Oliveira § 253 devoted his life to the study of
416 144 # Daily Iron Age sites. Here, you’ll find ¡ ¡ ¡
the foundations of 150 stone
Museu Martins Sarmento dwellings, a number of which
" ⌂ Rua Paio Galvão have since been reconstructed.
§ 253 415 969 # Tue–Sun From about the 4th century
¢ Public hols BC to the 4th century AD, the invasion, lies east of Guimarães
site was inhab ited by Celt­ among mountains and forests.
São Francisco iberians, but was most prob­ Statues known as bastos,
⌂ Largo de São Francisco ably under Roman rule from believed to represent Celtic
§ 253 439 850 # Tue–Sun c 20 BC. A network of paths warriors, are found in various
leads past paved streets, sub­ parts of the Terras de Basto,
terranean cisterns, sewers and where they served as terri­
water supply ducts. The Museu torial markers. In the main
INSIDER TIP
Game Time Martins Sarmento in Guimarães town, Cabeceiras de Basto,
Get tickets to see a displays excavated artifacts. the prime attraction is the
Baroque Mosteiro de Refojos,
football match at the with its splendid dome sur­
Estádio Dom Afonso rounded by statues of the
Henriques. Vitória 7 Apostles, and topped by
de Guimarães are the Cabeceiras de Basto the Archangel Michael.
home team and regu-
larly take on Portugal’s ! E1 @ n Praça da The town also owns the best
top football clubs, inclu- República; 253 669 100 of the basto statues, albeit with
ding Benfica and Porto. a French head; it was changed
The Terras de Basto, once a by troops as a joke during the
region of refuge from Moorish Napoleonic Wars.
279



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Igreja do Senhor da Cruz,
overlooking the central
square in Barcelos


da Cruz, built around 1705 on
the site where two centuries
EXPERIENCE Minho had a miracu lous vision of a
earlier João Pires, a cobbler,
cross etched into the ground.
The Festa das Cruzes (Festival
of Crosses), the town’s most
spectacu lar event, is held at
the beginning of May to cele­
brate the vision. During the
celebrations thousands of
flowers are laid on the streets
8 to welcome a proces sion to
the church, and events include
Barcelos displays of local folk costumes,
dancing and fireworks.
! D1 £ @ n Largo Dr José
DRINK Novais 27; 253 811 882 Other historic attractions
in the town cluster be side the
A pleasant riverside town, 15th­century granite bridge
Coconuts Barcelos is most famous as the that crosses over the Cávado
This buzzy café-bar origin of the legendary cock river. The privately owned
has outdoor tables that has become Portugal’s Solar dos Pinheiros is an
laid out on one of national symbol. It is also attractive mansion on Rua
Guimarães’s loveliest famed as the country’s leading Duques de Bragança, built
squares. ceramics and crafts market. in 1448. The sculpted figure
! E1 ⌂ Largo da Oliveira From its origins as a settle­ plucking his beard on the
1, Guimarães ment in Roman times, the south tower is known as
§ 253 047 207 ¢ Mon town of Barcelos developed Barbadão, the “bearded one”.
into a flourishing agricultural So incensed was this Jew when
Livraria Mavy centre and achieved political his daughter bore a child to a
Originally a impor tance during the 15th gentile (King João I) that he
19th-century century as the seat of the first vowed never to shave again,
bookshop, this space duke of Bragança. The town’s hence his nickname.
has been reincarnated star attraction is the Feira de A rich Gothic pillory stands
as a fashionable café- Barcelos, a huge weekly mar ket in front of the ruined Count’s
bar and gallery. held on Campo da Repúb lica. Palace or Paço dos Condes,
! E1 ⌂ Rua Dom Diogo Anything from clothes to destroyed by the earthquake
de Sousa 133, Braga livestock can be bought here. of 1755. The ruins provide an
§ 936 667 046 North of the square stands open­air setting for the Museu
Nossa Senhora do Terço, the Arqueológico, which displays
Tasca das Fodinhas 18th­century church of a stone crosses, sculpted
This old-time bar former Benedictine nunnery. blazons, sarcophagi, and its
is decked out with lots In contrast to its plain exterior, famous exhibit, the Cruzeiro do
of interesting knick- the interior is beautifully deco­ Senhor do Galo, a cross paying
knacks, and is an ideal rated with panels of azulejos tribute to the Barcelos cock.
place to partake of illustrating St Benedict’s life. Next to the palace, the Igreja
vinho verde in In the southwest corner of Matriz is Romanesque with
ceramic bowls. the square, a graceful cupola Gothic influences, and dates
! E1 ⌂ Rua do Rosário crowns the Igreja do Senhor from the 13th century.
28, Ponte de Lima
∑ tascadas
fodinhas.com A pleasant riverside town, Barcelos
is most famous as the source of the
legendary cock that has become
Portugal’s national symbol.

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original stone arches; the rest
were rebuilt in the 14th and VINHO VERDE
Did You Know? 15th centuries. The 15th- Ponte de Barca and
century church of Santo Ponte de Lima are well
The Romans thought António houses the Museu known for their young
their memories would dos Terceiros, a museum of sparkling white wine –
disappear if they sacred art. The Museu Rural vinho verde (green
crossed the has antique farming equip- wine). You can buy it on
Lima river. ment, an authentic regional tap, and it is still served
kitchen and gardens. in ceramic bowls in some
Ponte de Lima’s remaining bars. Perfect for hot
medieval fortifications include summer days, vinho
There are 18th-century azulejos the 15th-century Palácio dos verde is fairly low in
inside as well as an impressive Marqueses de Ponte de Lima. alcohol content (about
rose window. The town’s market, dating 10 or 11 per cent). A
from 1125, takes place every weightier version is
Museu Arqueológico Monday and in mid-September produced from the
⌂ Paços dos Condes crowds gather in the town to Alvarinho grape, which
§  253 809 600 # Daily celebrate the Feiras Novas is cultivated around
(New Fairs), a religious festival Monção (p282). Vinho
and folkloric market. verde made from red
9 grapes is also available.
  Museu dos Terceiros
Ponte de Lima ⌂ Avenida 5 de Outubro
§ 258 240 220 # 10am– graceful arcades and noble
! E1 @ n Passeio 25 de
Abril, Torre da Cadeia 12:30pm, 2–6pm Tue–Sun mansions from the 16th and
Velha; 258 240 208 17th cent uries. The Jardim dos
Poetas (Poets’ Garden) and
This attractive riverside town 10 riverside parks are ideal for
takes its name from the ancient picnics, and there is a huge
bridge over the Lima river. Ponte da Barca open-air market along the river.
During the Middle Ages, the ! E1 @ n Rua Conselheiro Some of Portugal’s finest
town played a piv otal role Rocha Peixoto 9; 258 Romanesque carvings are on
in the defence of the Minho 455 246 the 13th-century church at
against the Moors. The Roman Bravães, 4 km (2 miles) west
bridge has only five of its The town of Ponte da Barca of Ponte da Barca. Sculp ted
derives its name from the monkeys, oxen and birds of
graceful 15th-century bridge prey decorate the columns of
that replaced the boat once its main portal; the tym panum
used to ferry pilgrims across shows Christ in majesty flanked
the Lima river (ponte means by two angels.
bridge, and barca means boat).
A stroll through the tranquil Striking bronze statue
town centre leads dedicated to rural people
past the pil lory, in Ponte de Lima




















281



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11 poses, including one man
with his posterior bared
Caminha towards Spain. Did You Know?
Foz do Minho, the mouth
! D1 £ @ g n Praça of the Minho, lies 5 km (3 miles) Moncão’s coat of arms
Conselheiro Silva Torres;
258 921 952 south west of Caminha. From show a heroic baker who
here local fisher men will take threw rolls at besieging
This ancient fortress town groups (by prior arrange­ Spanish troops
ment) to the ruined island
in 1368.
perches beside the Minho
EXPERIENCE Minho to Spain. Occupied in Celtic The small walled town of cenotaph of the valiant Deu­
with fine views across the river fortress of Forte da Ínsua.
Vila Nova de Cerveira, 12 km
and Roman times for its
strategic position, Caminha
(7 miles) north east of
la­Deu Martins, the town’s
developed into a major port
Caminha on the road to
Valença, is ideal for a stroll.
until the diversion of its trade
used the last of the town’s
to Viana do Castelo in the
Either meander in narrow
16th century. Today it is a small streets lined with 17th­ and heroine. This female baker
flour to bake rolls that she
port, with a daily ferry con­ 18th­century mansions, or then flung at the Spanish
nection to A Guarda in Spain. wander along the river . during the seige of 1368.
On the main square is the The troops soon retreated.
13th­century Torre do Relógio A colourful element in the
clock tower, once a gateway in 12 June Corpus Christi festival
the medieval defensive walls, is the Festa da Coca, when
and the 16th­century Paços Monção St George engages the dragon
do Concelho with its attractive ! E1 @ n Praça Deu la Deu, (coca) in comic ritual combat
loggia supported by pillars. Casa do Curro; 251 649 013 before giving the final blow.
Cross to the other side of the The countryside around
square, past the Renaissance A remote and charming town, Monção produces ex cellent
fountain, to admire the seven Monção once formed part of vinho verde (p281); one of the
Manueline windows on the the string of fortified border best­known estates is the
upper storey of the Solar dos posts standing sentinel on the Palácio de Brejoeira, 5 km
Pitas mansion (17th century). Minho river. Both the town’s (3 miles) south of town.
The Rua Ricardo Joaquim main squares are lined with About 5 km (3 miles) south­
de Sousa leads to the Gothic old houses, and decorated east of Monção, the monastery
Igreja Matriz. Begun in the late with chestnut trees, flowerbeds of São João de Longos Vales
15th century, it has a superb and mosaic paths. was built in Romanesque style
inlaid ceiling of panels carved The 13th­century Igreja in the 12th century. The
in Mudéjar (Moorish) style. Matriz in Rua João de Pinho exterior capitals and interior
Renaissance carvings above boasts an outstanding Roma­ apse have fantastical sculpted
the side doors depict the nesque door way of sculpted fig ures, including serpents and
Apostles, the Virgin, and acanthus flowers. Inside, to monkeys. Visits are arranged
several figures in daring the right of the transept is the by the tourist office in Monção.











Rua Direita, one of
Caminha’s attractive
narrow streets
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EAT

Aloha Surf Bar
Choose to sit on the
terrace facing the fine
beach at Vila do Conde,
or in the contemporary
interior. There is a good-
value lunchtime buffet,
as well as à la carte
dishes, such as mixed
meat grills
! D2 ⌂ Via Pedonal
Manuel de Barros, Vila
13 Old Portuguese galleon do Conde § 252 618 886
docked in the harbour
Valença do Minho at Vila do Conde ¢ Mon & dinner
! D1 £ @ n Paiol do ¡¡¡
Campo de Marte; 251
823 329 The 18th-century Casa do Poço Design & Wine
presents symmetrical windows
Set in a commanding position and wrought-iron balconies. This chic, modern
on a hilltop overlooking the The Convento de Ganfei, restaurant serves a
Minho, Valença is an attractive 5 km (3 miles) east of Valença good range of petiscos
border town. Valença do on the N101, was recon- (Portuguese tapas)
and a mixture of
Minho’s old quarter is set in structed in the 11th century
Portuguese and
the narrow confines of two by a Norman priest. The international dishes,
double-walled forts, shaped convent retains exceptional which are all served
like crowns and linked by a Roman esque features, includ- with excellent
causeway. During the reign ing ornamental animal and local wines
of Sancho I (1185– 1211), the plant motifs and vestiges of
! D1 ⌂ Praça do
town was named Contrasta, medieval frescoes. To visit Conselheiro Silva
due to its position facing the the chapel, ask for the key Torres 8, Caminha
Spanish town of Tui. at the house opposite. ∑ designwinehotel.com
The forts date from the
17th and 18th centuries and ¡¡¡
were designed according to 14
the prin ciples of the French
archi tect Vauban. There are Vila do Conde
fine views from the ramparts ! D2 £ @ n Rua 25 de
across the river into Galicia. Abril 103; 252 248 473 The Praça Vasco da Gama has
Although the town was briefly an pillory in the shape of an
captured by Napoleonic This small town enjoyed its arm with thrusting sword – a
troops in 1807, its formidable boom years as a ship building vivid warning to wrong doers.
bastions resisted subsequent centre in the Age of Discovery Border ing the square is the
shelling and attacks from (p44); today it is a quiet fishing 16th-century Igreja Matriz,
across the river in 1809. port. In the historic centre, the with its Manueline portico,
Lining the cobbled alleys of main attraction is the Mosteiro attributed to João de Castilho.
the old quarter are shops full de Santa Clara, founded in The town is a centre for
of linen, wickerwork, pottery 1318. The Gothic church lace making. Visitors can buy
and handicrafts to tempt the contains the tombs of the samples and see the skills at
thousands of Spanish visitors nunnery’s founders, Dom the Escola de Rendas (lace-
who stroll across the bridge to Afonso Sanches (son of King making school). The same
shop. South of the ramparts is Dinis) and his wife Dona Teresa building houses the Museu de
the newer part of town. Martins. The entire building is Rendas (Lace Museum).
In Praça de São Teotónio, closed for redevelopment. By
Casa do Eirado (1448) boasts the Mosteiro de Santa Clara Escola de Rendas
a crenellated roof and late- are parts of the imposing ⌂ Rua de Sāo Bento 70
Gothic window, adorned 5-km (3-mile) aqueduct, built § 252 248 470 # Tue–Sun
with the builder’s signature. in 1705–14, with 999 arches. ¢ Public hols
283
283


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SOUTHERN

PORTUGAL









Alentejo ..................................................292

Algarve .....................................................318






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Beautiful Praia do Camilo, near Lagos in the Algarve



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Ourém Ourém
L
L E I R I A E I R I A
Alferrarede Alferrarede
Torres Torres R io Tejo R io Tejo
Novas Novas
Caldas daCaldas da Marvão Marvão Valencia de Valencia de Aliseda Aliseda
Rainha Rainha Castelo de Video de Vide AlcántaraAlcántara
Castel
Peniche Peniche
S P A
Ponte Ponte Crato Crato S P A I N I N
de Sor de Sor
Santarem Santarem Portalegre Portalegre
Alter do Chão Puebla de Puebla de
Alter do Chão
S A N T A R É M A R É M Obando Obando
S A N T
P O R T A
Torr
Torres Vedrases Vedras P O R T A L E G R E L E G R E
Campo Maior
Campo Maior
Carregado Carregado
L I S B O A I S B O A Coruche Coruche Mora Mora Sousel Sousel
L
Elvas Elvas BadajozBadajoz
EstremozEstremoz Lobón Lobón
Sintra Sintra
LISBON LISBON Évora Évora Vila Viçosa Vila Viçosa
Monte
Monte
Arraiolos Arraiolos
Montijo Montijo Olivenza Olivenza
AlandroalAlandroal
É
A tl anticA tl antic Montemor-Montemor- É V O R A V O R A RedondoRedondo Santa Santa
Oc eanOc ean o-Novo o-Novo Marta Marta
Setúbal Setúbal Rio Guadiana Rio Guadiana
Évora Évora
Tróla Tróla MonsarazMonsaraz
ALENTEJOALENTEJO
Alcácer do Sal
Alcácer do Sal p292 p292 ReguengosReguengos
Viana do Viana do de Monsarazde Monsaraz Jerez de los CaballerosJerez de los Caballeros
Alentejo Alentejo
S E T Ú B A L Ú B A L
S E T
Alvito Alvito
VidigueraVidiguera
GrândolaGrândola Fregenal deFregenal de
la Sierra la Sierra
Moura Moura
Beja Beja
Santiago Santiago
EXPLORE Sines Sines Serpa Serpa Rosal de Rosal de Jabugo Jabugo
do Cacém do Cacém
la Fronterala Frontera
SOUTHERN Vila NovaVila Nova B E J AB E J A Rio Guadiana Rio Guadiana
PORTUGAL de Milfontes Rio Mira Rio Mira Ourique Ourique Castro Verde Mértola Mértola
de Milfontes
Castro Verde
Zambujeira Zambujeira Santa-Clara-
Santa-Clara-
do Mar do Mar a-Velha a-Velha Almodôvar Almodôvar
This section divides Southern Portugal into
two colour-coded sightseeing areas, as shown Alcoutim Alcoutim
on this map. Find out more about each area on
the following pages. Aljezur Aljezur Cachopo Cachopo Odeleite Odeleite
Monchique Monchique
ALGARVEALGARVE FAROFARO
Vila Real deVila Real de
Silves Silves p318 p318 São Bras São Bras S. AntónioS. António
Portimão Portimão de Alportel de Alportel
Tavira Tavira Cacela
Cacela
Lagoa
0 kilometres0 kilometres 30 30 N N Vila do BispoVila do Bispo Lagos Lagos Lagoa Loulé Loulé Estoi Velha Velha
Estoi
AlbufeiraAlbufeira
0 miles 0 miles 30 30 Sagres Sagres Faro Faro
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Ourém Ourém
L
L E I R I A E I R I A
Alferrarede Alferrarede
Torres Torres R io Tejo R io Tejo
Novas Novas
Caldas daCaldas da Marvão Marvão Valencia de Valencia de Aliseda Aliseda
Rainha Rainha Castelo de Video de Vide AlcántaraAlcántara
Castel
Peniche Peniche
S P A
Ponte Ponte Crato Crato S P A I N I N
de Sor de Sor
Santarem Santarem Portalegre Portalegre
Alter do Chão Puebla de Puebla de
Alter do Chão
S A N T
S A N T A R É M A R É M Obando Obando
P O R T A
Torres Vedrases Vedras P O R T A L E G R E L E G R E
Torr
Campo Maior
Campo Maior
Carregado Carregado
L
L I S B O A I S B O A Coruche Coruche Mora Mora Sousel Sousel
Elvas Elvas BadajozBadajoz
EstremozEstremoz Lobón Lobón
Sintra Sintra
LISBON LISBON Évora Évora Vila Viçosa Vila Viçosa
Monte
Monte
Arraiolos Arraiolos
Montijo Montijo Olivenza Olivenza
AlandroalAlandroal
É
A tl anticA tl antic Montemor-Montemor- É V O R A V O R A RedondoRedondo Santa Santa
Oc eanOc ean o-Novo o-Novo Marta Marta
Setúbal Setúbal Rio Guadiana Rio Guadiana
Évora Évora
Tróla Tróla MonsarazMonsaraz
ALENTEJOALENTEJO
Alcácer do Sal p292 p292 ReguengosReguengos
Alcácer do Sal
Viana do Viana do de Monsarazde Monsaraz Jerez de los CaballerosJerez de los Caballeros
Alentejo Alentejo
S E T
S E T Ú B A L Ú B A L
Alvito Alvito
VidigueraVidiguera
GrândolaGrândola Fregenal deFregenal de
la Sierra la Sierra
Moura Moura
Beja Beja
Santiago Santiago
do Cacém do Cacém
Serpa Serpa Rosal de Rosal de
Sines Sines la Fronterala Frontera Jabugo Jabugo
B E J AB E J A Rio Guadiana Rio Guadiana
PORTUGAL
Vila NovaVila Nova
de Milfontes
de Milfontes
Castro Verde
Castro Verde
Ourique Ourique Mértola Mértola
Rio Mira
Rio Mira
Zambujeira Zambujeira Santa-Clara-
Santa-Clara-
do Mar do Mar
a-Velha a-Velha Almodôvar Almodôvar
Alcoutim Alcoutim
Cachopo Cachopo Odeleite Odeleite
Monchique Monchique
Aljezur Aljezur
ALGARVEALGARVE FAROFARO
Vila Real deVila Real de
Silves Silves p318 p318 São Bras São Bras S. AntónioS. António
Portimão Portimão de Alportel de Alportel
Tavira Tavira Cacela
Cacela
0 kilometres0 kilometres 30 30 N N Vila do BispoVila do Bispo Lagos Lagos Lagoa Loulé Loulé Estoi Velha Velha
Lagoa
Estoi
AlbufeiraAlbufeira
0 miles 0 miles 30 30 Sagres Sagres Faro Faro
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GETTING TO KNOW


SOUTHERN


PORTUGAL
EXPERIENCE Southern Portugal Most people imagine manicured golf courses, smart resort hotels and





water parks when they think of Southern Portugal. But a short journey inland
reveals vast rolling plains of golden wheat and silver olive trees, vineyards,
and pretty whitewashed villages. Home to storks nesting in spring and
fields still tended by horse and cart, this bucolic region is also rich in history,
from Neolithic dolmens to Roman temples and medieval castles.





























ALENTEJO Best for
Castles and countryside
PAGE 292 The sun-baked Alentejo occupies nearly one-third of Home to
Portugal, between the Tagus and the Algarve. Its capital,
Évora, Paço Ducal
Évora, is home to Stone Age relics and a well-preserved
Roman temple, as well as the lively Praça do Giraldo. Experience
To the southeast, the labrynthine white towns of Serpa A walk along the Rota Vicentina
(also known as the Trilho dos
and Mértola interrupt the largely rural terrain while, Pescadores), a long-distance hike
nearer the Spanish frontier, massive fortifications still made up of former fishermen’s
shelter Castelo de Vide and Monsaraz. To the west of the paths along the coast
Alentejo’s southern plains, surfers flock to windswept
beaches, and small former fishing villages such as Vila
Nova de Milfontes make great low-key destinations.


288



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ALGARVE Best for
Family-friendly resorts and
PAGE 318 Enclosed by hilly ranges to the north, the stunning fantastic beaches
coastline and year-round mild weather of the Algarve
Home to
make it one of the most popular holiday destinations in
southern Europe. Central Algarve is where you’ll find all Faro
Experience
the action – upmarket resorts, golf courses, water parks, A short boat trip out to the
smart shopping centres, Michelin-starred restaurants beaches of Ilha da Tavira
and lively late-night bars. Head west of Lagos, however,
and you’ll find a rural hinterland and wild, windswept
beaches. In the east is a series of offshore spits, which
can only be accessed by boat, making them calmer
than the crowded resorts in the centre.


289



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EXPERIENCE Southern Portugal There’s so much more to Southern Portugal 2





1


than the sunny beaches of the Algarve. Here
we show you how to make the most of a
week in the south of the country.
7 DAYS





In Southern Portugal 33



Day 1
Afternoon Momentos serves up a daily-
Morning Fly into Faro, capital of the changing organic menu (p299). Later, take
Algarve, to explore its attractive walled the cobbled alleys to the bustling Praça
old town (p322). Inside, cobbled streets do Giraldo, then down Rua da República.
lead to the elegant Largo da Sé. Ascend the End the day at the macabre Capela dos
Sé’s bell tower for fantastic views over Ossos, inside the church of São Francisco.
the water. Pedestrianized streets bustling
with shops and cafés lead off the attractive Day 3
waterfront square making it easy to find
a spot for lunch. Morning Leave Évora for the fortified
Afternoon Join a sightseeing cruise towns of Estremoz and Elvas. Medieval
around the protected Parque Natural da Estremoz has a remarkable 13th-century
Ria Formosa (p335), looking out for the marble keep, overlooking the surrounding
myriad birds that call the park home. cork and olive groves (p306). Come lunch
Back in the city, you’ll find that the time, A Cadeia Quinhentista (p304), a
liveliest nightlife revolves around quirky former prison, is a welcome spot.
the harbour. Afternoon Continue on the E802 to the,
impressive fortifications of Elvas (p304).
On your way back to Évora, drop in at the
Day 2 marble town of Vila Viçosa to visit the
vast Paço Ducal (p300).
Morning Drive north on the IP2 to Beja
for a wander round its historic streets and
a coffee break (p312). Suitably refreshed, Day 4
continue on to the whitewashed town of
Évora (p296). Begin your exploration of Morning and afternoon It’s time to leave
the town at the Roman temple, before the historic towns behind and hit the
heading to the 12th-century cathedral. beach. It’s a long drive to the bustling
290



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4
1 Purple jacaranda trees
blooming in Faro.
2 Évora’s 12th-century Sé.
3 A rocky cove near Lagos.
4 Admiring the lighthouse
at Cabo de São Vicente.



town of Lagos (p329), but you’ll be the vibrant stalls before selecting some
rewarded by some of the prettiest coves fresh produce for lunch on the waterfront.
in the Algarve, surrounded by towering Afternoon Clamber the ancient walls of
cliffs and offshore rock formations. the Moorish castle for wonderful town
Evening After freshening up after a day views, then head to the former convent
spent on the sand, enjoy a sundowner of Nossa Senhora da Graça, now a pousada
at one of the marina’s many lively bars. (p329). Non-guests can visit the bar, which
displays Moorish street foundations
unearthed here during refurbishment.
Day 5
Morning Follow the N125 through the Day 7
Parque Natural da Costa Vicentina, which
clings to the Algarve’s western tip, all the Morning In summer you can get a boat
way to Sagres. Roam the windblown Cabo over to the Ilha de Tavira: a sandbar
de São Vicente (p328), which juts into the beach. Out of season, you’ll need to drive
Atlantic Ocean, with its landmark lighthouse. to nearby Quatro Águas and take a ferry.
Afternoon Back in Sagres (p328), take a Bring a picnic and walk along the long,
dip in the warm shallow waters off nearby sandy stretch to find a restful spot.
Martinhal beach. The restaurants lining Afternoon You can soak up the sun and
the sheltered bay tempt with just-caught paddle in the sea here until late in the
seafood menus. afternoon – it’s only a short drive back to
Faro on the A22.
Day 6
Morning Drive east on the A22 to Tavira,
a pretty riverside town with a Roman
bridge and lively market (p336). Browse
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Brightly coloured bunting outside a church in Redondo





























ALENTEJO



Stone circles, dolmens and other relics of
Stone Age life pepper the Alentejan plain,
particularly around Évora, a historical gem of
a city at the region’s geographical centre. Évora,
like Beja, Elvas and Alter do Chão, was founded
by the Romans, who valued this land beyond the
Tagus – além Tejo – for its wheatfields. Introducing
irrigation systems to overcome the soil’s aridity,
they established enormous farms to grow grain
for the Empire. Worked by peasant farmers, these
huge estates, or latifúndios, still exist.
Vineyards across the region have long produced
powerful wines, and some areas are classified at
the Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC)
level. Since 1986, Portugal’s membership of
the European Union has increased the rate
of investment and modernization, although the
region is still sparsely populated, supporting only
10 per cent of the population. Land tenure has
always been a concern here, and Communism
has a strong appeal – the Alentejans were
solid supporters of the 1974 revolution (p47).
Portuguese people from other regions mock
the amiable alentejanos for their traditional
ways, but they are widely admired for their
singing, handicrafts, gastronomy and wines.
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Vila de Rei Vila de Rei
Pataias Pataias Maceira Maceira Ferreira Ferreira Peral Peral
Ourém Ourém do Zêzere do Zêzere
0 kilometres
Montalvão Montalvão 0 kilometres 20 20 N N
São Domingos
São Domingos
0 miles 0 miles 20 20
MartinxelMartinxel Nisa Nisa Ribeira de Nisa Membrío Membrío
L E I R I A E I R I A Torres Torres Belver Amieira Amieira Ribeira de Nisa CASTELO
Belver
L
Novas
CASTELO
Novas
ALENTEJO ALENTEJO Foz do Arelho ESTREMADURA Gavião Do Tejo Do Tejo DE VIDE DE VIDE
Foz do Arelho
ESTREMADURA
Gavião
Alcanede Alcanede AND RIBATEJO MARVÃO MARVÃO
San Vicente San Vicente
Pernes Pernes AND RIBATEJO Alpalhao Alpalhao de Alcántara
de Alcántara
p166
p166
Chamusca Chamusca
Flor da Rosa
Flor da Rosa Fortios Fortios
S P A
Reguengo Grande
Reguengo Grande CRATO CRATO S P A I N I N
Bombarral Bombarral Ponte de Sor Portalegre Portalegre
Santarém Santarém Ponte de Sor La La
Alburquerque
Noitinhas Noitinhas Vila Formosa ALTER ALTER Urra CodoseraCodosera Alburquerque
Urra
Vila Formosa
Vimeiro Vimeiro Novas Novas DO CHÃO DO CHÃO
S A N TA R É M TA R É M
S A N
SERRA DE SÃO MAMEDE
SERRA DE SÃO MAMEDE
PORTALEGRE GRE Villar del Rey
PORTALE
Villar del Rey
Torres Vedras
Torres Vedras Raposa Raposa Vaiamonte Vaiamonte Arronches Arronches
São Pedro da Cadeira
São Pedro da Cadeira Montargil Montargil
Azambuja Azambuja Avis Avis Fronteira Fronteira Monforte Monforte CAMPOCAMPO
Carregado Carregado
A tl antic antic LISBO A Benavente Benavente Santa Eulália MAIOR MAIOR
A tl
Santa Eulália
LISBO A
Oc
Oc eanean Ericeira Ericeira Couço Couço Casa Branca Sousel Sousel Veiros Veiros Vila
Casa Branca
Vila
Malveira Malveira Mora Mora FernandoFernando Badajoz Badajoz
Pavia Pavia
ESTREMOZ
Santo Estêvão
Santo Estêvão ESTREMOZ ELVAS ELVAS
Loures Loures Santa Iria Santa Iria Ribeira de Tera
Ribeira de Tera
Sintra Sintra da Azóia da Azóia Vimiero Vimiero PAÇO DUCAL
PAÇO DUCAL
ÉVORAMONTE
Lisbon Portela
Lisbon Portela Lavre Lavre ÉVORAMONTE
LISBON LISBON ARRAIOLOS Serra de Ossa ALANDROAL
ARRAIOLOS
ALANDROAL
Montijo Montijo
MONTEMOR-
Serra de Ossa
Cascais Cascais Almada Almada MONTEMOR- São Miguel São Miguel Olivenza Olivenza
O-NOVO O-NOVO
de Machede
Seixal Seixal Poceirão Poceirão de Machede REDONDO Almendral Almendral
REDONDO
ALENTEJO É V O R A V O R A Terena Terena de la Contienda
San Benito San Benito
É
de la Contienda
Palmela Palmela Santiago do Escoural São Matias São Matias ÉVORAÉVORA Rio Guadiana Rio Guadiana
Santiago do Escoural
Vila Fresca de Azeitão
Must Sees Vila Fresca de Azeitão Cheles Cheles
Montoito Montoito Alconchel Alconchel
1 Évora São São São São MONSARAZ
2 Paço Ducal CristóvãoCristóvão Manços Manços MONSARAZ
Reguengos Reguengos
VIANA DO
VIANA DO
Villanueva del Fresno
Experience More Alcácer do Sal Alcáçovas Alcáçovas ALENTEJO de Monsaraz Mourão Mourão Villanueva del Fresno
de Monsaraz
Alcácer do Sal
ALENTEJO
3 Serra de São Mamede SETÚBAL ÚBAL Oriola Oriola Oliva de la Oliva de la
SET
THE LISBON
Granja
Amieira Amieira
4 Marvão THE LISBON Portel Portel Barragem Barragem Granja Frontera Frontera
COAST COAST
d’Alqueva d’Alqueva
5 Castelo de Vide p144 p144 Alvito Alvito Póvoa
6 Crato VIDIGUEIRA Alqueva Alqueva Póvoa Amareleja Amareleja
VIDIGUEIRA
Grândola Grândola
7 Alter do Chão Melides Melides Odivelas Odivelas Cuba Cuba Barrancos Barrancos
MOURA MOURA
Abela Serra de Grandola
8 Elvas Lagoa de Lagoa de PedrógãoPedrógão Sáfara Sáfara Encinasola Encinasola
Vila Nova de
9 Campo Maior Santo André Santo André Vila Nova de Ferreira do Ferreira do Beringel Beringel
Santo Andre
Alentejo Alentejo
Santo Andre
0 Estremoz Serra de Grandola Baleizão Baleizão Serra da Adiça Sobral da Adiça
Sobral da Adiça
SANTIAGO DO CACÉM
q Alandroal SANTIAGO DO CACÉM Abela BEJA BEJA Pias Pias
Serra da Adiça
w Redondo SINES SINES Santa Santa SERPA SERPA Rosal de Rosal de
e Évoramonte São São Vitória Vitória Vila NovaVila Nova
la Frontera la Frontera
Trindade Trindade
de São Bento
r Montemor-o-Novo PORTO COVO Domingos Domingos Aljustrel Aljustrel Albernoa Albernoa Santa IriaSanta Iria de São Bento Jabugo Jabugo
PORTO COVO
t Monsaraz Messejana Messejana Ribeira de Terges Rio Chança Rio Chança
y Arraiolos Cercal Cercal BE JA BE JA
Ribeira de Terges
u Serpa Entradas Entradas Paymogo Paymogo Cabezas Rubias
Cabezas Rubias
VILA NOVA DE MILFONTES
i Vidigueira VILA NOVA DE MILFONTES São Luís São Luís Santa Luzia Santa Luzia Mina de Mina de
São Domingos
o Viana do Alentejo Almograve Almograve Rio Mira Castro Castro do Vale do Gudaiana São Domingos
Verde
Verde
MÉRTOLA
p Moura Ourique Ourique MÉRTOLA Puebla de Guzmán
Puebla de Guzmán
Parque Natural
Rio Mira
Parque Natural
a Santiago do Cacém Odemira Odemira Calañas Calañas
do Vale do Gudaiana
S P A I N I N
s Beja ZAMBUJEIRA DO MAR Santa Clara- Gomes Espírito Espírito El Granado El Granado S P A
Gomes
Villanueva de
São Teotónio
d Sines ZAMBUJEIRA DO MAR São Teotónio Santa Clara- Aires Aires Almodôvar Almodôvar Santo Santo Villanueva de
a-Velha a-Velha
los Castillejos
los Castillejos
f Vila Nova de Milfontes
g Mértola Balurcos Balurcos San Silvestre de Guzmán
h Zambujeira do Mar ALGARVE San Silvestre de Guzmán
ALGARVE
j Porto Covo Aljezur Aljezur p318 p318 Los Salones
Los Salones
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Vila de Rei Vila de Rei
Pataias Pataias Maceira Maceira Ferreira Ferreira Peral Peral
Ourém Ourém do Zêzere do Zêzere
0 kilometres
Montalvão Montalvão 0 kilometres 20 20 N N
São Domingos
São Domingos
0 miles 0 miles 20 20
MartinxelMartinxel Nisa Nisa Ribeira de Nisa Membrío Membrío
L E I R I A E I R I A Torres Torres Belver Amieira Amieira Ribeira de Nisa CASTELO
L
Belver
CASTELO
Novas
Novas
ALENTEJO ALENTEJO Foz do Arelho ESTREMADURA Gavião Do Tejo Do Tejo DE VIDE DE VIDE
Foz do Arelho
ESTREMADURA
Gavião
Alcanede Alcanede AND RIBATEJO MARVÃO MARVÃO
San Vicente San Vicente
Pernes Pernes AND RIBATEJO Alpalhao Alpalhao de Alcántara
p166
de Alcántara
p166
Chamusca Chamusca
Flor da Rosa
Flor da Rosa Fortios Fortios
S P A
Reguengo Grande CRATO CRATO S P A I N I N
Reguengo Grande
Bombarral Bombarral Ponte de Sor Portalegre Portalegre
Santarém Santarém Ponte de Sor La La
Alburquerque
Noitinhas Noitinhas Vila Formosa ALTER ALTER Urra CodoseraCodosera Alburquerque
Urra
Vila Formosa
Vimeiro Vimeiro Novas Novas DO CHÃO DO CHÃO
S A N TA R É M TA R É M
S A N
SERRA DE SÃO MAMEDE
SERRA DE SÃO MAMEDE
PORTALEGRE GRE Villar del Rey
PORTALE
Villar del Rey
Torres Vedras
Torres Vedras Raposa Raposa Vaiamonte Vaiamonte Arronches Arronches
São Pedro da Cadeira Montargil Montargil
São Pedro da Cadeira
Azambuja Azambuja Avis Avis Fronteira Fronteira Monforte Monforte CAMPOCAMPO
Carregado Carregado
A tl
A tl antic antic LISBO A Benavente Benavente Santa Eulália MAIOR MAIOR
Santa Eulália
LISBO A
Oc eanean Ericeira Ericeira Couço Couço Casa Branca Sousel Sousel Veiros Veiros Vila
Oc
Casa Branca
Vila
Malveira Malveira Mora Mora FernandoFernando Badajoz Badajoz
Pavia Pavia
ESTREMOZ
Santo Estêvão
Santo Estêvão ESTREMOZ ELVAS ELVAS
Loures Loures Santa Iria Santa Iria Ribeira de Tera
Ribeira de Tera
Sintra Sintra da Azóia da Azóia Vimiero Vimiero PAÇO DUCAL
PAÇO DUCAL
Lisbon Portela
ÉVORAMONTE
Lisbon Portela Lavre Lavre ÉVORAMONTE
LISBON LISBON ARRAIOLOS Serra de Ossa ALANDROAL
ARRAIOLOS
ALANDROAL
Montijo Montijo
MONTEMOR-
Serra de Ossa
Cascais Cascais Almada Almada MONTEMOR- São Miguel São Miguel Olivenza Olivenza
O-NOVO O-NOVO
de Machede
Seixal Seixal Poceirão Poceirão de Machede REDONDO Almendral Almendral
REDONDO
San Benito San Benito
É
É V O R A V O R A Terena Terena de la Contienda
de la Contienda
Palmela Palmela Santiago do Escoural São Matias São Matias ÉVORAÉVORA Rio Guadiana
Santiago do Escoural
Vila Fresca de Azeitão
Vila Fresca de Azeitão Rio Guadiana Cheles Cheles
Montoito Montoito Alconchel Alconchel
São São São São
MONSARAZ
CristóvãoCristóvão Manços Manços MONSARAZ
VIANA DO
VIANA DO Reguengos Reguengos Mourão Mourão
Villanueva del Fresno
de Monsaraz
Alcácer do Sal Alcáçovas Alcáçovas ALENTEJO de Monsaraz Villanueva del Fresno
Alcácer do Sal
ALENTEJO
SETÚBAL
SETÚBAL THE LISBON Oriola Oriola Portel Barragem Barragem Granja Oliva de la Oliva de la
THE LISBON
Portel
Amieira Amieira
Granja
Frontera Frontera
COAST COAST Alvito Alvito d’Alqueva d’Alqueva
p144 p144 Póvoa Póvoa
VIDIGUEIRA
Grândola Grândola VIDIGUEIRA Alqueva Alqueva Amareleja Amareleja
Melides Melides Odivelas Odivelas Cuba Cuba MOURA MOURA Barrancos Barrancos
Abela Serra de Grandola
Serra de Grandola
Lagoa de Lagoa de Vila Nova de Ferreira do Ferreira do PedrógãoPedrógão Sáfara Sáfara Encinasola Encinasola
Vila Nova de
Santo André Santo André Santo Andre Alentejo Alentejo Beringel Beringel
Santo Andre
Sobral da Adiça
SANTIAGO DO CACÉM
SANTIAGO DO CACÉM BEJA Baleizão Baleizão Pias Serra da Adiça Sobral da Adiça
Pias
BEJA
Serra da Adiça
SINES SINES Abela
Santa Santa SERPA SERPA Rosal de Rosal de
la Frontera la Frontera
São São Vitória Vitória Vila NovaVila Nova
Domingos Domingos Aljustrel Aljustrel Trindade Trindade de São Bento Jabugo Jabugo
de São Bento
PORTO COVO
PORTO COVO Albernoa Albernoa Santa IriaSanta Iria
Messejana Messejana Ribeira de Terges
Cercal Cercal BE JA BE JA Rio Chança Rio Chança
Ribeira de Terges
Entradas Entradas Paymogo Paymogo Cabezas Rubias
Cabezas Rubias
VILA NOVA DE MILFONTES
VILA NOVA DE MILFONTES São Luís São Luís Santa Luzia Santa Luzia Mina de Mina de
São Domingos
Castro Castro Parque Natural São Domingos
Almograve Almograve Rio Mira Ourique Ourique Verde Verde MÉRTOLA do Vale do Gudaiana
MÉRTOLA
Puebla de Guzmán
Puebla de Guzmán
Parque Natural
Rio Mira
Calañas Calañas
Odemira Odemira S P A I N I N
do Vale do Gudaiana
S P A
ZAMBUJEIRA DO MAR
ZAMBUJEIRA DO MAR Santa Clara- Gomes Gomes Espírito Espírito El Granado El Granado
Santa Clara-
Aires
Santo
Aires
Santo
Villanueva de
São Teotónio
São Teotónio a-Velha a-Velha Almodôvar Almodôvar Villanueva de
los Castillejos
los Castillejos
Balurcos Balurcos
San Silvestre de Guzmán
ALGARVE
ALGARVE San Silvestre de Guzmán
Aljezur Aljezur p318 p318
Los Salones
Los Salones
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EXPERIENCE Alentejo








Sitting in the plant-lined
Praça do Giraldo, Évora’s
expansive main square

1 8 Aqueducto da
Água de Prata
ÉVORA

! E5 £ Largo da Estação @ Estrada de Lisboa R R U A D O S
U
n Praça do Giraldo; 266 777 071 J
A
Rising out of the Alentejan plain is the enchanting O
A
walled city of Évora. The town rose to prominence O A L V A D O R
under the Romans and flourished throughout the D E
Middle Ages as a centre of learning and the arts. D
Students throng Évora’s streets, joined by visitors who E U
S
come to discover its many historical sites and enjoy
the atmosphere of the old town, with its evocatively 9 Walls
named streets, including the Alley of the Unshaven R U A N O V A
Man and Street of the Countess’s Tailor.

Apostles. The 18th-century
1 " high altar and marble chancel P R A Ç A D O
Sé are by J F Ludwig, the architect G I R A L D O
of the Palácio de Mafra (p156),
⌂ Largo do Marquês de while a Renaissance portal The historic centre
Marialva § 266 759 330
# Daily (museum: Tue–Sun) in the north transept is by of Évora around the
Nicolau Chanterène. In the Roman temple and Sé
Although building began in cloisters, which date from
1186, and it was consecrated about 1325, statues of the
in 1204, the granite cathedral Apostles stand watch at
of Santa Maria was completed each corner.
in 1250. Romanesque melds A glittering treasury Did You Know?
with Gothic in this castle-like houses sacred art. The most
cathedral whose towers, one intriguing exhibit here is a The Roman temple has
turreted, one topped by a 13th-century ivory Virgin been used as an
blue cone, give the façade an whose body opens out to armoury, theatre and
odd asymmetry. Flanking the be come a triptych of tiny slaughterhouse.
portal between them are carved scenes: her life in
superb 14th-century sculpted nine episodes.
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Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224

Must See

INSIDER TIP
Get Crafty
If you’re on the lookout
for a quality souvenir,
head straight for Rua 5
de Outubro. The shops
along this street sell
curios and handicrafts,
from painted chairs to
colourful ceramics, as
well as anything you
could ever imagine
being made from cork. One of the ornate, gilded side chapels
in the town’s imposing Sé

The 15th-century
This Roman temple Convento dos Lóios
dedicated to Diana is now a luxurious
was erected in the 2nd pousada.
or 3rd century AD.
4
5 R U A D O C O L É G I O






L . D O
C O N D E
D E V I L A
R U A D O S
F L O R
2
A L V A D O R
7 1
R U A N O V A R U A 5 D E O U T U B R O Casa de Garcia



P R A Ç A D O L . D E M I G U E L de Resende was
home to a poet
G I R A L D O
D E P O R T U G A L
and diplomat
(1470–1536).
The Igreja da
Misericórdia is noted
for its early-18th-
R U A D A M I S E R I C Ó R D I A 6 Largo da
century azulejos.

Porta de Moura


The Nossa Senhora
da Graça, dating
from the 16th-
3 São century, has a
Francisco
Palladian façade.
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The interior of the
Capela dos Ossos in the
chuch of São Francisco
Did You Know?
Évora was named
2 " 3 " Ebora by the Celts,
Museu de Évora São Francisco meaning “of the
yew trees”.
⌂ Largo do Conde de ⌂ Praça 1° de Maio
Vila Flor § 266 730 480 § 266 704 521 # Daily
# Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 25 Dec
Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar:
9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun The main attraction of this years but was closed in 1759
15th-century church is its when the reforming Marquês
This 16th-century palace, once Capela dos Ossos, a grue some de Pombal banished the
the residence of governors chapel of bones created in the Jesuits from Portugal.
and bishops, is now the 17th century from the remains Today part of the University
regional museum. Évora’s of 5,000 monks. Two leathery of Évora, the school still has a
history is all here, from Roman corpses, one of a child, dangle graceful cloister and notable
columns to modern sculpture from a chain, and a mordant azulejos – in the classrooms
in local marble. Don’t miss reminder at the entrance they depict suitably studious
The Life of the Virgin, a 16th- reads: Nós ossos que aqui themes such as Plato lecturing
century Flemish polyptych estamos, pelos vossos to his disciples (1744–9). The
in 13 panels. esperamos (“We bones 18th-century Baroque chapel,
that are here await yours”). now the Sala dos Actos, is
used in graduation season.
4 "-
University 5 "
Palácio dos Duques
⌂ Largo dos Colegiais 2 de Cadaval
§ 266 740 800 # Mon–Sat
¢ Public hols ⌂ Rua Augusto Filipe
Simões # Tue–Sun
With the establishment of the ∑ palaciocadaval.com
Jesuits’ Colégio do Espírito
Santo, Évora, already noted The Palace of the Dukes of
for its architecture and sacred Cadaval, on the site of the
art, became a seat of learning. city’s former castle, dates
The school flourished for 200 from the 14th century. The
façade is noted for its unusual
pentagonal tower. Inside,
rooms display medieval
An 18th-century armour, illumi nated 14th-
monstrance on display century manu scripts and
in the Museu de Évora 18th-century religious art.
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Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224

Must See
6 follow a well-signposted trail
for 8.3 km (5 miles) along
Largo da Porta a surviving 9-km- (6-mile-)
de Moura long stretch. EAT
The western entrance to this
square is guarded by the 9 Fialho
vestiges of a Moorish gateway. A historic, award-
Both the domed Casa Soure Walls winning restaurant
and the double arches of the specializing in
belvedere on Casa Cordovil at The fortifications that have recreating traditional
the opposite end, show the protected Évora down the recipes, with a good
Arab influence on architecture centuries form two incomplete wine list. Book
in Évora. The central fountain, concentric circles. The inner in advance.
looking like some futur istic orb, ring, of which only fragments ⌂ Travessa das
surprisingly dates back to 1556. are discernible, is Roman, Mascarenhas 16, Évora
from perhaps as early as the § 266 703 079 ¢ Mon
1st century AD, with Moorish ¡¡¡
7 and medieval additions – the
two stubby towers that give
Fundação Eugénio the Largo da Porta de Moura Momentos
de Almeida its name mark an Arab gate. The chef guides you
In the 14th century, new through the menu of
⌂ Páteo de São Miguel the day here, which
# Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols walls were built to encompass features local organic
the growing town. Completed
This avant-garde modern under Fernando I, these had produce. Unlike much
exhibition space plays host to 40 towers and 10 gates, Portuguese cuisine, the
fish and meat dishes
local and national artists and including the Porta de are accompanied by
the occasional inter national Alconchel, which still beautifully presented
name, such as Marcel faces the Lisbon road. salads or vegetables
Duchamp. It also promotes When João IV was defiantly rather than chips.
the performing arts, staging declared king in 1640 (p45),
regular concerts and reci tals. major fortifications were ⌂ Rua 5 de Outubro 61B,
Évora § 925 161 423
The building provides access erected in anticipation of ¢ Mon & Wed–Fri L, Tue
to the Carriage Museum, and Spanish attack, and it is these
tours to the nearby Cartuxa 17th-century walls which are ¡¡¡
winery can be booked here. most evident today. The walls
withstood much battering from
the besieging Spanish in 1663.
8
Aqueduto da
Água de Prata
Évora’s aqueduct was built
between 1531 and 1537 by the
town’s own eminent architect,
Francisco de Arruda. The
construction was regarded
with wonder, and is even des-
cribed in Os Lusíadas, the epic
by Luís de Camões (p184). It
originally carried water as far
as the Praça do Giraldo. It was
damaged in the 17th century
during the Restoration War
with Spain, but visitors can


Évora’s walls, bathed
in a gloriously golden
evening light
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2 "'
PAÇO DUCAL



! F5 ⌂ Terreiro do Paço, Vila Viçosa § 268 980 659 @ # Jun–Sep: 2–6pm Tue,
10am–1pm, 2pm–6pm Wed–Sun; Oct–May: 2–5pm Tue, 10am –1pm, 2–5pm
Wed–Sun ¢ Public hols, 16 Aug
EXPERIENCE Alentejo Viçosa, begun by Dom Jaime in 1501, became their favoured residence.
The dukes of Bragança owned vast estates, but this lavish palace at Vila
The palace is set in a pretty hill side town, which was named Val Viçosa –
“fertile valley” – after the expulsion of the Moors in 1226. Substantial
houses, built from the local white marble, reflect Vila Vicosa’s prosperous
royal past and the town is full of reminders of the Braganças. Dominating
the west side of the Terreiro do Paço is the long façade of the Paço Ducal,
which stretches for 110 m (360 ft).
The Royal House of Bragança
Afonso, illegitimate son of João I, was created
duke of Bragança in 1442, first of an influential
but bloodstained dynasty. Fernando, the 3rd
duke, was executed in 1483 by his cousin, João 1910
II, who feared his power. Jaime, the unstable
4th duke, locked up his wife in Bragança castle The last monarch,
(p248), then killed her at Vila Viçosa. It was Dom Manuel II, fled into
Jaime who initiated the building of the palace exile after 270 years
at Vila Viçosa, an ambitious work embellished of Bragança rule.
by later dukes to reflect their aspirations and
affluence. The 8th duke was very reluctant to
relinquish a life of music and hunting here
to take up the throne (p45).

Exploring the Palace
When the 8th duke became king in 1640, many
of the furnishings accompanied him to Lisbon,
but the long suite of first-floor rooms is still
splendid, from the Sala da Cabra-Cega, where
royal parties played blind man’s buff, to the
heroic Sala de Hércules. More intimate are the
rooms of King Carlos and his wife, which are
much as the king left them the day before his
assassination in 1908.
Guided tours, which last about an hour, take
in the royal rooms ranged along the first floor
and ground-floor areas such as the kitchen
and the treasury. Entry to the coach
museum, on the north side
of the palace, and armoury
is by separate tickets.
From time to time
areas may be closed
for restoration and
rooms can be shut
off without notice.



Statue of João IV in front
of the Paço Ducal, home
to a historic chapel (inset)
300
300


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