Must See
1 The Sala Grande dos Actos is lined with dons’
benches and portraits of Portuguese monarchs.
2 Named after its benefactor, João V, the 18th-
century Biblioteca Joanina holds over 300,000
books under a painted ceiling.
3 The Capela de São Miguel has an impressive
Mannerist altar surrounded by azulejos.
2
1 3
The bell tower, symbol of
the university, has three
bells. Its best known is
called a cabra, the goat.
Did You Know?
In May, students burn
coloured ribbons to
mark the end of the
academic year.
The Via Latina is
an 18th-century
colonnaded
walkway.
Sala Grande
dos Actos
INSIDER TIP
Take a Tour
Choose from the four
different tour routes
to tailor your visit to
your interests. Our
pick is “From the Palace Built in 1634, the heavy
to the College”, which iron Porta Férrea is flanked
takes in the Biblioteca by figures representing
canon and civil law,
Joanina and the Capela medicine and letters. The grand Coimbra
de São Miguel. University, with its
iconic bell tower
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3 "
BUÇACO
! E3 ⌂ 3 km (2 miles) SE of Luso § 231 937 000 @
# 9am–6pm daily (last adm 5pm) ∑ fmb.pt
Part-ancient woodland, part-arboretum, the National Forest of
EXPERIENCE The Beiras and the astonishing Bussaco Palace Hotel at its centre.
Buçaco is a magical place, with its shady walks, hermits’ grottoes
Bussaco Palace Hotel
As early as the 6th century, this 105-hectare
King Carlos, who commissioned this
(260-acre) park was a monastic retreat, and in
extravaganza in 1888, never lived to see his
1628 the Carmelites built a monastery here,
walling in the forest to keep the world at bay.
Manueline folly of a hunting lodge built by
In their secluded forest the monks established
contemplative walks and chapels. The trees, creation. Completed in 1907, the Neo-
Luigi Manini includes murals and tiles by
added to by Portuguese explorers, gained prominent artists. Azulejos in the
papal protection in 1632, and there are some hall feature scenes of the
700 species here, including the venerable Battle of Buçaco.
“Buçaco cedar”. The peace of the The palace’s rebirth as a
forest was disturbed in luxury hotel in 1917, serving
1810 as British and its own wines, was the
Portuguese troops inspir ation of the royal chef
fought the French and it became a fashion able
on Buçaco ridge. rendezvous for socialites.
The exterior of the Bussaco Palace
Hotel, whose grand hall (inset)
has azulejos featuring scenes
from the Battle of Buçaco
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Must See
1 2
1 The Bussaco Palace Hotel has a
light and airy restaurant, serving a
delightful breakfast buffet. With such
a lavish interior, it is not hard to see
why Manuel II is said to have brought
the French actress Gaby Deslys here
for a romantic interlude.
2 The park is great for walkers and
there are many shaded paths through
the forest to choose from.
3 Only the cloisters, chapel and a
few monks’ cells of the Carmelite
3 Monastery remain.
TOP FOREST
5 FEATURES
Fonte Fria
This impressive stepped
cascade, fed by a forest
spring, tumbles down to
a magnolia-fringed pool.
Vale dos Fetos
Leading down to a small
lake, the Valley of Ferns
is lined with specimens
from around the world.
Via Sacra
Installed by the Bishop
of Coimbra in 1693,
chapels containing
life-size figures mark
the Stations of the Cross
along this winding path.
Did You Know? Cruz Alta
The forest’s highest
In World War II, the point has glorious
hotel was rumoured views as far as the sea.
to be frequented
by spies. The Buçaco Cedar
Now 28 m (92 ft) high,
this tree is said to have
been planted in 1644.
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EXPERIENCE The Beiras
Autumn foliage
gilding the Serra da
Estrela mountains
4
SERRA DA ESTRELA
! F3 £ Covilhã, Guarda @ To Covilhã, Seia & Guarda; limited local service within park
n Mercado Municipal, Rua Pinto Lucas Marrão, Seia (238 317 762); Covilhã (275 319
560); Gouveia (238 083 930); Manteigas (275 981 129)
A designated nature reserve, the Serra da Estrela’s long-distance paths and
stunning flora attract walkers and nature enthusiasts, while a winter snowfall
brings skiers to the slopes around Torre.
These “star mountains” are the tallest range on mainland
Portugal. The highest point rises to 1,993 m (6,539 ft) but is
topped by a small stone tower – the Torre – to “stretch”
it to 2,000 m (6,561 ft) above the Zêzere river. The
exposed granite of the upper slopes is good for little
but grazing sheep, and stone shepherds’ huts, with
thatched roofs, form part of the landscape.
Sheep have shaped the fortunes of the area,
providing wool for a textile industry and
milk for Portugal’s best-known cheese.
The “Old Man’s Head” near
Sabugueiro, formed by the
erosion of granite
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Must See
GREAT VIEW
Torre Tour
Climb up mainland
Portugal’s highest
mountain for amazing
views of the Zêzere
valley. There are 1950s
radar stations at the
top, which make an
interesting contrast
with the natural scene
set out below.
Did You Know?
Serra da Estrela
sheepdogs are reputed
to have some wolf’s
blood in their
ancestry.
1 Intelligent, loyal and brave,
the Serra da Estrela sheepdog 1 2
embodies all the qualities
required in this wild region. Its
heavy, shaggy coat helps it
survive the bitter high-altitude
winters and in the past its
strength was called upon to
defend the flock from wolves.
2 The Zêzere flows through a
classic glacier-cut valley. The
golden broom growing here is
used to thatch mountain huts.
3 Linhares, a town on the
western slopes of the Serra da
Estrela, is like a living museum,
with many fine houses dating
from its 15th-century heyday. 3
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EXPERIENCE MORE
5 "
Paiva Walkways
! E2 ⌂ Start at Areinho or
EXPERIENCE The Beiras 5pm Oct–Mar) ∑ reservas.
Espiunca # May–Sep: 9am–
8pm daily (to 6pm Apr,
passadicosdopaiva.pt
This 8.7-km (5.4-mile) walkway
comprises a wooden board-
walk that weaves its way along
the contours of the beautiful
Paiva river valley. Parts of
the trail are stepped and
extremely steep, so it’s best
to avoid the heat of the day.
Public toilets are only to be reserve, the Mata Nacional das Hikers taking the
found at Vau – the halfway Dunas de Mira. Praia de Mira, walkway through the
point, where you can also take with the dunes and Atlantic Paiva river valley
a dip in the river. The area is on one side and the peaceful
prone to summer fires and lagoon of Barrinha de Mira on
visitor numbers are restricted, the other, is a pretty fishing the convent has stood
so advance book ing is essen- village developing as a resort. beside Arouca’s church on
tial. It’s best to start the walk Fishing boats are still drawn the cobbled main square.
from Areinho as the end point up the spectacular beach by In the early 18th century
at Espiunca is largely downhill. oxen, but leisure craft now the church underwent costly
cruise the shore and inland redecoration: 104 carved
waterways, and the fishermen’s choir stalls are surmounted
6 striped palheiros, popular as by paintings in sumptuous
seaside cottages, are fast
gilded panels, and the organ
Praia de Mira vanishing amid bars and cafés. and chancel retable are also
heavily gilded. Honoured with
! D3 @ n Av da Barrinha;
924 473 751 its own altar is a recumbent
7 effigy of Santa Mafalda in a
This unspoilt stretch of silver and ebony casket; her
coast is backed by a wooded Arouca mummified remains lie below
the casket.
! E2 @ n Rua Alfredo Vaz Guided tours take visitors
HIKING AND Pinto; 256 940 258 round the convent’s museum,
CYCLING ROUTES This small town in a green in which are displayed some
The relatively flat valley owes its main attraction, exquisite silver monstrances,
coastline makes the the great Mosteiro de Arouca, furniture and religious works
area around Praia de to its saintly royal benefactor, of art, including two paintings
Mira ideal for hiking Mafalda. Princess Mafalda was by 18th-century artist André
and cycling. Visit the born in 1195, the daughter of Gonçalves, showing Mafalda
tourist office to pick Sancho I. She was betrothed saving the monastery from
up leaflets detailing the to the teenage Prince Enrique fire. The Neo-Classical double
marked trails around of Castile, but when he died in cloister, begun in 1781, the
local lakes and water an accident, Mafalda took the large refectory and kitchen,
mills. Our choice is the veil in Arouca. Under her, the and a chapterhouse covered
25km (15mile) Pista convent became Cistercian and with cheerful Coimbra tiles
CicloPedonal de Mira, Mafalda’s wealth and dedica- of rural scenes can also
which follows inland tion made the house highly be visited.
canals towards Aveiro influential. She died in 1256,
via dunes, lakes and and her incorrupt corpse was Mosteiro de Arouca
pine woods (www.cm- discovered in 1616, leading to "' ⌂ Largo de Santa
mira.pt/node/139). her beatification in 1793. Mafalda § 256 943 321
For over a thousand years # Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
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8 Ovar recreate the lifestyle of a HIDDEN GEM
bygone era, alongside displays
Ovar of regional costume and dolls. Perfect Picnics
Located 6.5 km (4 miles) From Figeuira da Foz,
! E2 £ @ n Rua Elias from Ovar, the church at it’s a short drive to the
Garcia; 256 572 215
Válega makes a rewarding Parque Florestal da
This small town once earned its visit. Its façade is a Serra da Boa Viagem.
living from the Ria de Aveiro masterpiece of azulejos. This beautiful wooded
(p195). Indus try has arrived in hilltop reserve offers
the shape of foun dries and Museu de Ovar woodland walks and
steel mills, but oxen still plod " ⌂ Rua Heliodoro Salgado picnic and children’s play
along the roads. Gleaming tiles 11 § 256 572 822 # Tue–Sat areas, as well as the
cover many of the small ¢ Public hols Parque Aventura – a
houses, as well as the twin- high-rope adventure
towered 17th-century Igreja course with zip wires.
Matriz in Avenida do Bom 9
Reitor. In the town centre the
Calvary chapel of the 18th- Figueira da Foz eclectic display from Arraiolos
century Capela dos Passos ! D3 £ @ n Avenida 25 de carpets and religious art to
is adorned with wood car- Abril; 233 422 610 Indo-Portuguese furniture.
vings carrying a shell motif.
Tableaux in the Museu de Lively and cosmopolitan, this Museu Municipal Dr
popular resort has a busy Santos Rocha
marina, a casino and a wide, ⌂ Rua Calouste Gulbenkian
curving beach with breakers § 233 402 840 # Jul & Aug:
that attract surfers. 9:30am–6pm Tue–Fri, 2–7pm
The town is not Sat & Sun; Sep–Jun 9:30am–
just a playground 5pm Tue–Fri, 2–7pm Sat
for holiday-makers, ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec
however, and the
Museu Municipal Dr
Santos Rocha has Eye-catching church
archaeo logical decorated with azulejos
artifacts, and an at Válega, near Ovar
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10 dos Anjos in the square of the RABAÇAL CHEESE
same name (the tourist office
Montemor-o-Velho keeps the key). Its 17thcentury The village of Rabaçal,
façade hides an earlier, more
! D3 @ n Castelo de lavish interior, with Manueline a few miles (6 km)
Montemor-o-Velho; west of Penela, is best
239 680 380 and Renaissance influences. known for its cheese of
the same name. This
This attractive and historic 11 regional speciality is
hillside town rises out of fields
EXPERIENCE The Beiras Mondego river. Its castle, ! E3 £ @ n Rua João Luso; milk, which is aged for
made with a mixture
of rice and maize beside the
of sheep’s and goat’s
Lousã
at least 20 days. Some
which served as a primary
defence of the city of Coimbra
villagers still mature
239 990 040
(p196) is mostly 14th century,
the cheese rounds in
The paper factory at Lousã,
but it had previously been a
darkened rooms in
their homes.
on the forested banks of the
Moorish stronghold, and the
keep has fragments of Roman
stonework. The church of
in 1716 and is still working.
Santa Maria de Alcaçova Arouce river, was opened The tortuous road south from
Skilled papermakers imported
within its walls was founded from Italy and Germany by here towards Castanheira de
in 1090. Restored in the 15th the Marquês de Pombal Pêra gives a splendid view
century, its naves and arches brought prosperity, still evident across the valley. A turning
reflect the Manueline style. in the handsome 18thcentury east leads up to Alto do
Montemor was the birth houses. Most elegant of these Trevim which, at 1,204 m
place of Fernão Mendes Pinto is the Palácio dos Salazares, a (3,950 ft), is the highest
(1510–83), famous for his private home located on Rua point in the Serra de Lousã.
colourful accounts of his Viscon dessa do Espinhal. Also
travels in the east. Another notable is the Misericórdia,
explorer, Diogo de Azambuja with a 1568 Renaissance 12
(died 1518), is buried here. portal, on Rua do Comércio.
Columbus is said to have Deep in a valley, just south Penela
sailed with Azambuja, who of Lousã, is the Castelo de ! E3 @ n Largo do
intrepidly navigated along Arouce. Legend says it was Município; 239 561 132
the West African coast. His built in the 11th century by a
tomb, by the Manueline King Arunce, who took refuge Penela’s thickset castle was
master Diogo Pires, is in the in the valley when fleeing built in 1087 by Sisinando,
Convento de Nossa Senhora from raiders. To visit the governor of Coimbra, as part
castle, ask at the town hall. of the line of defences of the
Near the castle are the three Mondego valley. Its squat
shrines of the Santuário de towers provide wonderful
Nossa Senhora da Piedade. views over the village and, to
the east, of the wooded Serra
da Lousã. The church within
A bell tower on the the castle walls, São Miguel,
castle walls at dates back to the 16th
Montemor-o-Velho century. Below, in Penela
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itself, Santa Eufémia, dated
1551 above its decorative
doorway, has a Roman capital
used as a font.
13 "\
Conímbriga
! E3 ⌂ 2 km (1 mile)
S of Condeixa-a-Nova
§ 239 941 177 (museum)
@ From Coimbra # 10am–
7pm daily ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May,
Easter Sun, 25 Dec
Beautifully preserved
This, the largest and most central garden of Casa
extensively excavated Roman das Fontes in Conímbriga
site in Portugal, was on the
Roman road between Lisbon
(Olisipo) and Braga (Bracara living. The city’s pools, and focus for tourism. The thermal
Augusta). There is evidence of the baths and steam rooms waters, which originate from
Roman habitation here as of Trajan’s thermae, were fed a spring below the Capela de
early as the 2nd century BC, by a spring 3.5 km (2 miles) São João, are thought to be
but even before this time there away via a mostly subter of therapeutic value in the
was a Celtic settle ment here. ranean aqueduct. treatment of a wide range
Under the Roman empe ror Official excavation was of conditions, ranging from
Augustus, from about 25 BC, begun here in 1912, but a bad circulation and improving
Conímbriga became a sub consider able part of the 13ha muscle tone to renal problems
stantial town: baths, a forum (32acre) site has yet to be and rheumatism.
and the aqueduct have been explored, inclu ding an amphi There are a number of
uncovered from this era. The theatre north of the city. In grand, if somewhat faded,
finest build ings, however, date the 3rd or early 4th cent ury, hotels here, and an elegant
from the 2nd and 3rd centuries buildings were plundered for Art Nouveau lobby adorns the
AD, and they provide a vivid stone as defensive walls were former casino, but the main
image of a prosperous city. hastily raised against barbarian reason for visiting the resort
The site is approached along hordes. In a successful assault is to enjoy its spa facilities. An
a section of Roman road that in AD 468, the Suevi burned additional attraction of Luso is
led into the city from the east. the city and murdered the in the proximity of the treasured
Just to the left cluster the out habitants. Excavated skeletons national forest of Buçaco
lines of shops, baths and two may date from this episode. (p202), which is a powerful
onceluxurious houses, both An informative museum presence above the town.
with exquisite mosaic floors. explains the history and lay Nestled between Luso
At Conímbriga is one of the out of the site, and has exhibits and Curia, Mealhada is an
largest houses discovered in of Roman busts, mosaics and attrac tive small town in the
the western Roman Empire. coins alongside more ancient heart of a region famous for
This opulent villa, known as Celtic artifacts. There is also a leitão, suckling pig. This
the Casa de Cantaber, is built restaurant and picnic site. enormously popular dish is
around orna mental pools in prominently advertised at
colonnaded gardens, with its numerous hotly competing
own bath com plex and a 14 restaurants in the area.
sophisticated heating system.
Some of the fine mosaics in Luso
the museum probably came ! E3 @ n Rua Emídio
from this huge residence. Navarro 136; 231 Did You Know?
The Casa das Fontes, dating
from the early 2nd century, is 939 133 Luso is one of the most
under a protective cover but In the 11th century, Luso popular brands of
walkways provide good views. was just a village linked to a mineral water
Its mosaics and fountains, rare monastery at Vacariça, but it in Portugal.
survivals which give the house developed into a lively spa
its name, form a strong image town in the 18th century as its
of the Roman taste for good hotwater springs became a
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15
Arganil
! E3 @ n Avenida das
Forças Armadas;
235 200 137
Tradition has it that this was a
Roman city called Argos. In the
EXPERIENCE The Beiras mother of Afonso Henriques,
12th century, Dona Teresa, the
gave the town to the bishopric
of Coimbra, whose incumbent
also acquired the title of
Conde de Arganil. Most of
the town’s architecture is
unremarkable, but the church
of São Gens, the Igreja Matriz
in Rua de Visconde de Frias,
dates back perhaps to the
14th century.
One of the most curious The Village of Piódão,
local sights is kept in the blending into the
sanctuary of Mont’Alto, 3 km Serra de Açor
(2 miles) above the town. Here,
the Capela do Senhor da
Ladeira harbours the Menino mother of Afonso Henriques. 17
Jesus, a Christ Child figure in The 13th-century Igreja Matriz
a bicorne hat (part of a full in Largo Ribeira do Amaral Piódão
wardrobe). He comes out for houses a magnificent reminder ! E3 @ From Coja 20 km
festas but the chapel key is of the era of these warrior (12 miles) away n Largo
otherwise available from the monks. One of the founders Cónego Manuel Fernandes
last house on the right. of the town, Domingues Nogueira; 235 732 787
Joanes, is buried beside
his wife in the Capela dos The Serra de Açor (Hills of the
16 Ferreiros. His large tomb is Goshawk) is a place of bleak
beauty, where solitary villages
surmounted by a charming
Oliveira do Hospital equestrian statue. cling to precipitous terraces.
Today, this lively industrial Piódão is the most striking of
! E3 @ n Casa da Cultura,
Rua do Colégio; 238 town is perfectly situated for these dark schist and slate
exploring the valleys of the
hamlets. Seem ingly remote,
609 269
Mondego and the Alva. Piódão was, until the 1800s,
These lands At Lourosa, 12 km (7 miles) on the main commer cial route
once belonged to the southwest of Oliveira from Coimbra to Covilhã, but
to the Knights do Hospital, the simple 10th- with newer roads the village
Hospitallers, a century church of São Pedro was forgotten. But Piódão is
gift in 1120 reflects the changing fate coming back to life: houses
from the of Portugal over the are being repainted and the
centuries. A cemetery bright white Igreja Matriz once
excavated beneath the again stands out against the
church dates from the surround ing dark stone.
Roman era; the porch
is Visigothic, while inside
are ten impressive 18
Roman arches
and an ajimene Caramulo
(Moorish window).
! E3 @ n Avenida Dr
Jerónimo de Lacerda 750;
232 861 437
Statue in the In a grassy rolling serra west
church at Oliveira of Viseu, this small town was
do Hospital once, with its clear moun tain
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air, a centre for sanatoria. It is the striking 15thcentury Sé
is better known today for Porta do Soar de Cima, a ⌂ Largo da Sé § 232 436 065
two very disparate museums. remnant of the original # 9am–noon, 2–5:15pm daily
In the Museu do Caramulo, walls. In the Rossio, the main
the exhibits range from 16th square, the 1887 town hall Museu de Grão Vasco
century Flemish tapestries, on the west side has a grand " ⌂ Largo da Sé § 232 422
porcelain, silver and ivory to stairway and azulejos relating 049 # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
Egyptian bronzes from 1580 the history of Viseu. (from 2pm Tue) ¢ 1 Jan,
to 900 BC. The paintings are Viseu’s Sé, the town's Easter, 1 May, 24 & 25 Dec
as varied: from Portuguese cathedral, still retains a few
primitives to the 20th century. Romanesque features, but it
One of Picasso’s still lifes was has been altered over the
donated by the artist in 1947. centuries in a variety of styles.
The collection in the Museu The façade is a 17thcentury
do Automóvel is just as eclec replacement of a Manueline DRINK
tic: Bugattis and RollsRoyces, frontage that fell down in
and a bulletproof 1938 1635. Inside, the vaulted roof Paço dos Cunhas
MercedesBenz ordered for is supported by 16thcentury de Santar
Salazar when he was prime knotted ribs on 13thcentury The Dão valley is
minister but never used. columns. In the north chapel best known for its
are fine azulejos from the 18th quality wines. You
Museu do Caramulo and century, while those in the can visit many of the
Museu do Automóvel twostorey cloister date from estates on the Rota
" ⌂ Caramulo § 232 861 270 a century earlier. The cathe do Vinho do Dão
# 10am–1pm, 2–6pm Tue– dral’s treasury, housed in (www.rotavinhos
Sun (to 5pm Oct–Mar) ¢ 1 Jan, the chapterhouse, includes dao.pt), which has its
Easter Sun, 24 & 25 Dec a 12thcentury Gospel and a head quarters in Viseu. A
13thcentury Limoges coffer. good place to head is the
In the 16thcentury former pretty village of Santar,
home to Paço dos
19 bishop’s palace abutting the Cunhas de Santar,
cathedral is the Museu de
Viseu Grão Vasco, exhibiting the a restored mansion
paintings of Vasco Fernandes offering wine
! E3 @ n Casa do Adro, workshops and tastings.
Adro da Sé; 232 420 950 (c 1475–1540) and his fellow
artists of the Viseu School. On E3 ⌂ Largo do Paço de
The centre of the Dão wine the top floor are the master Santar, Santar § 914
growing region, this city is pieces that once adorned the 832 901 ¢ Mon
also packed with history. On cathedral’s chancel altarpiece,
the western side of this including Grão Vasco’s
regional capital’s old town monumental St Peter.
Woman resting
in the cloisters,
Viseu cathedral
210-211_EW_Portugal.indd 211 20/09/2018 10:41
Santuário da Nossa Senhora
da Lapa. The story tells of a INSIDER TIP
Ghost Village
Did You Know? mute shepherd girl, Joana, Explore Marialva, 14 km
who found a statue of the
Virgin Mary on a great boulder (9 miles) northeast of
The local Serra cheese –
made from ewe’s milk – and took it home. Irritated, Trancoso – an eerily
abandoned village
is at its tastiest when her mother threw it on the where tumble down
it turns runny. fire, at which moment the ruins of the houses, hall
child miraculously spoke:
EXPERIENCE The Beiras 20 “It is the Senhora da Lapa.” A citadel. It is a mystery
and prison are all that
“Don’t burn it,” cried Joana.
remain of the medieval
chapel was built to enshrine
why the area was deser
the boulder, and the image
ted. No battle destroyed
looks down from a recess.
it; it seems merely to
Sernancelhe
The castle at Penedono is
have been abandoned
captivating. In the middle of
! F2 @ n Town hall;
254 550 030
more fruitful lands.
northeast of Sernancelhe, it
has survived since at least the
Whitewashed houses cluster this small town 17 km (11 miles) as townsfolk moved to
around the granite heart of 10th century.
this modest Beira town. In famous Serra cheese. From
Praça da República stands the Santuário da Nossa November to February a
Romanesque Igreja Matriz. The Senhora da Lapa cheese market is held in the
granite statues in its façade ⌂ Quintela da Lapa, 11 km Praça Municipal, and there is
niches, survivors from the (7 miles) SW of Sernancelhe a cheese fair every February.
12th century, flank a notable § 232 688 993 # Daily Around Rua Fernão Pacheco,
arched portal embellished by running from the main road
a semicircle of carved angels. up to the castle, is the old
The grandest house here is the 21 centre of Celorico, which is
Baroque Solar dos Carvalhos manifested in a cluster of
behind the church. Long and Celorico da Beira granite houses with Manueline
low, with carved granite portals ! F3 £ @ n Rua Sacadura windows and Gothic doors.
against whitewashed walls, it is Cabral; 271 742 109 Of the 10th-century castle,
where the local noble family battered by a long succession
lived in the 18th century. In the lee of the Serra da of frontier disputes with
In the Serra da Lapa rising Estrela, the pastures around Spain, only a tower and the
to the south of Sernancelhe, Celorico da Beira have long outer walls remain. Its stark
stands a shrine known as the been a source of the region’s silhouette is less dramatic
at close quarters. The Igreja
Matriz, which was restored
in the 18th century, has a
painted coffered ceiling.
During the Peninsular War,
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EAT
A Taberna
Cosy and rustic, this
lovely eatery serves the
likes of roast goat and
bacalhau, which are
cooked in the wood-
fired oven.
! E3 ⌂ Rua dos
Combatentes da Grande
Guerra 86, Coimbra
¢ Sun D, Mon L
∑ restaurante
ataberna.com
¡¡¡
A typical narrow street
in the peaceful walled O Cortiço
town of Trancoso A traditional restaurant
serving a good range of
tapas and hearty meat
the church served briefly here the first unrestricted dishes, including duck
as a makeshift hospital for fair in Por tugal. Left in peace with rice, which is best
the English forces. after 1385, the town became eaten with a Dão wine.
a lively com mercial centre. ! E3 ⌂ Rua Augusto
Trancoso once had a large Hilário 45, Viseu § 916
22 Jewish population; in the old 461 576 ¢ Sun D, Mon
Jewish quarter, houses survive
Trancoso with one broad and one ¡¡¡
narrow door, separating
! F2 @ n Avenida HerÓis
de São Marcos 2; 271 domestic life from commerce.
811 147 From the southern gate, Rua
da Corredoura leads to São The present Vaubanstyle
When King Dinis married Isabel Pedro, restored after 1720. A strong hold was designed in
here in 1283, he gave her tombstone in the church com 1641 by Antoine Deville after
Trancoso as a wedding gift. memorates Gonçalo Anes, a Spain’s Philip IV, in post
He was also responsible for local shoe maker who, in the Restoration rage, destroyed
the walls that still encircle the 1580s, wrote the celebrated the earlier defences protecting
town and, in 1304, established Trovas under the name of the town and its castle.
Bandarra. These stories From 1742 to 1743 Almeida
prophesied the return of was in Spanish hands again,
the young King Sebastião. and then during the Peninsular
The castle perched on War was held in turn by the
rocks at Penedono, French under Masséna and
near Sernancelhe the British under the Duke of
23 Wellington. In 1810, a French
Almeida shell lit a powder trail that
des troyed the castle.
! F2 @ n Portas de São To breach the town’s
Francisco; 271 570 020
fortifications, cross a bridge
Formidable defences in the and pass through a tunnel.
form of a 12pointed star The under ground soldiers’
guard this small, delightfully barracks, can be visited and an
preserved border town. armoury in the main gateway,
Almeida was recognized by the Portas de São Francisco,
Spain as Portuguese territory holds further mementoes of
under the Alcañices Treaty on Almeida’s military past. A walk
12 September 1297, but this around the grassy walls gives
did not stop further incursions. rewarding views of the town.
213
213
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24 builders of Batalha (p172). The
interior, by contrast, is light
Guarda and graceful. The 100 carved
figures high on the altarpiece
! F3 £ @ n Praça Luís de in the chancel were worked
Camões; 271 205 530
by Jean de Rouen in 1552.
Spread over a bleak hill on the Set out over two floors, the
northeast flank of the Serra Museu da Guarda takes you
on a trip through the history
da Estrela, Guarda is the coun
EXPERIENCE The Beiras (3,465 ft). Founded in 1199 by to the present day. On display
try’s highest city, at 1,056 m
of the region from prehistory
are paintings, archaeological
Sancho I, the city’s original
discoveries and a section on
role as frontier guard explains
the city’s own poet, Augusto
its name and its rather forbid
Gil (1873–1929).
ding countenance. Some of its
arcaded streets and squares
From the cathedral square,
are lively, but the fortresslike
Sé, with its flying buttresses,
the 17thcentury Miseri córdia
church. Inside the orna mental
pinnacles and gargoyles, Rua do Comércio leads down to
could never be described as portal are Baroque altars and
lovely. Master architects who pulpits. Just north of the
worked on the cathedral, cathedral, in the historic town
begun in 1390 and completed centre, is the 18thcentury
in 1540, included Diogo Boitac church of São Vicente, which
(from 1504 to 1517) and the has 16 elaborate azulejo panels
depicting the life of Christ.
Guarda used to support a
thriving Jewish community,
which was founded in the
Did You Know? beginning of the 13th century.
History records that João I, on Statue of navigator Pedro
The Portuguese a visit to Guarda, was smitten Álvares Cabral, associated
named Brazil after the by Inês Fernandes, the beau with Belmonte
wood that they found tiful daughter of a Jewish
there – Brasil. shoemaker. From their liaison
a son, Afonso, was born. In Bragança was bestowed on
1442 the title of first Duke of Afonso, and 200 years later his
descendant would take the
throne as João IV, first of the
Bragança monarchs (p248).
Museu da Guarda
" ⌂ Rua Alves Roçadas 30
§ 271 213 460 # 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Easter,
1 May, 25 Dec
25
Belmonte
! F3 £ @ n Castelo de
Belmonte; 275 911 488
Belmonte was for generations
the fiefdom of the heroic
Cabral family. Pedro Álvares
Pedestrianized street
close to the cathedral
in Guarda
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The stunning village of
Sortelha, watched over
by its castle
Cabral, the first navigator to
land in Brazil, had forebears
who fought at Ceuta (p44) and
Aljubarrota (p173). Fernão, an
earlier ancestor, was famed
for his feats of strength. The
family crest, incorporating a
goat (cabra), can be seen in
the castle and adjacent
chapel. The castle, begun in
1266, retains its keep and a STAY
Manueline window added
later. The little church of São in the Treaty of Alcañices, the
Tiago nearby has preserved castle was refortified by the Casa da Lagariça
its Romanesque sim plicity: ever-industrious King Dinis. Accommodation in one
the frescoes above the altar Its imposing towered walls of Sortelha’s attractive
and, in a tiny side chapel, a and unusual five-sided keep old stone houses, this
granite pietà date from the survive from this era, although 18th-century former
13th century. Beside the the castle suffered in peace- grape store now offers
church is the 15th-century time from villagers raiding it three bedrooms,
Capela dos Cabrais which for building stone. two bathrooms and
holds the Cabral family tombs. Peopled since prehistoric a kitchen.
The modern Igreja da times, Sabugal still has part of ! F3 ⌂ Calçada de Santo
Sagrada Família (1940) is the its medieval walls, reinforced Antão 11, Sortelha
repository for a treasured in the 17th century and now ∑ casalagarica.com
statue of Nossa Senhora da ringed by newer houses. In ¡¡¡
Esperança said to have the Praça da República stands
accompanied Cabral on his a granite clock tower, recon- Solar de Alarcão
voyage to Brazil. The Museu structed in the 17th century.
Judaico de Belmonte charts This 17th-century
manor house, with a
the development of the Jewish serene atmosphere and
community in the region. 27 filled with antiques,
Northeast of Belmonte is is right in the heart
the Roman Centum Cellas, Sortelha of Guarda, near
also called Torre de Colmeal. ! F3 ⌂ 20 km (12 miles) the cathedral.
It is not known what the role west of Sabugal
of this square, three-storeyed ! F3 ⌂ Rua Dr Miguel de
Alarcão 25–27, Guarda
structure was – maybe a Wrapped in its ring of walls, ∑ solardealarcao.pt
hostel or military base, a Sortelha is enchanting. This
mansion or a temple. beautifully preserved town ¡¡¡
sits on a granite outcrop and
Museu Judaico the views from the high keep
de Belmonte of its gem of a 13th-century
⌂ Rua da Portela 4 § 275 castle are stunning.
088 698 # Tue–Sun The castle has several granite houses. Sortelha’s old
Manueline features, including town is a short walk or drive
the coat of arms of Manuel I from a newer town where you
26 and armillary spheres. Parts will find shops and restaurants.
of its walls were blown up
The local fondness for
Sabugal by Napoleon’s troops but bullfights is reflected in
later rebuilt. names of nearby villages
! F3 @ n Inside the castle;
271 750 080 In front of the castle such as Vila do Touro. In a local
entrance is a 16th-century variation of the controversial
In 1296, when this small town pillory with an armillary sphere sport, the capeia, bulls were
beside the Côa river was on top. In the tiny citadel are taunted into charging into a
confirmed as Portuguese a school and stony lanes of huge fork of branches.
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28 Portuguese village in Portugal”. HIDDEN GEM
The village is at one with the
Penamacor granite hillside on which it Nature Reserve
perches: its lanes blend into The Reserva Natural
! F3 £ @ n Largo Tenente the grey rock, the houses da Serra da Malcata
Coronel Júlio R Silva; 277
394 106 squeezed between massive around Penamacor,
boulders. Tiny gardens sprout offers 20 sq km
Fought over by successive from the granite and dogs (8 sq miles) of wilder
ness. The reserve
drink from granite bowls.
waves of Romans, Visigoths
EXPERIENCE The Beiras was fortified in the 12th a castro, a Lusitanian fortified The present appearance of
shelters wolves, otters
The ruined castle began as
and Moors, this frontier town
and, most importantly,
the Iberian lynx.
century by Gualdim Pais,
settlement, and suffered a long
history of sieges and battles for
Master of the Knights Templar
(p176). Today the weather-
its commanding position. It
beaten castle walls rise above
was finally destroyed by a
the cathedral comes from
19th-century gunpowder
a quiet town at the heart of
hardy, sparsely inhabited
ation, but in the echoing
beyond the village centre, but
coun try where the main
the view alone is worth the
interior are stacked inscribed
attrac tion is hunting. explosion. Cars cannot go early 16th-century restor-
From the main square, the walk up to the ruined walls. and sculpted Roman stones.
road up to the old town passes In the middle of the village
beside the former town hall, is a 17th-century pillory, the
built over a medieval archway. 30 Renaissance Igreja Matriz and a
Beyond lie the restored castle ruined Torre dos Templários, a
keep and the 16th-century Idanha-a-Velha relic of the Templars. This order
Igreja da Misericórdia, with an ! F3 @ n Rua da Sé; 277 of religious knights held sway
elegant Manueline portal 914 280 in Idanha until the 14th century.
capped by armillary spheres,
the emblem of Manuel I. This modest hamlet among
the olive groves encapsu lates 31
the history of Portugal. Sign-
29 posts in Portuguese, French Castelo Branco
and English guide visitors
Monsanto round the landmarks of this ! F4 £ @ n Avenida Nuno
fascinating living museum. Alvares 30; 272 330 339
! F3 @ n Rua Marquês da
Graciosal; 277 314 642 Idanha-a-Velha was, it is This handsome, busy old city,
said, the birthplace of the overlooked by the vestiges of
An odd fame hit Monsanto in Visigothic King Wamba, and a Templar castle, is the most
1938 when it was voted “most had its own bishop until 1199. important in the Beira Baixa.
Monsanto’s houses,
drawfed by immense
granite boulders
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The greatest attraction is the
Jardim Episcopal beside the
former bishop’s palace. Created
by Bishop João de Mendonça in
the 18th century, the garden’s
layout is conventionally formal;
its individuality lies in its dense
population of statues. Baroque
in style and often bizarre in
character, stone saints and
Apostles line the box-edged
paths, lions peer at their reflec-
tions in pools and monarchs
stand guard along the grand
balustrades – the hated
kings of the 60-year Spanish
rule conspicuously half-size.
The 17th-century Paço
Episcopal itself now houses the town centre stands a Decorative pool in
the Museu Francisco Tavares 15th-century cross known the Jardim Episcopal,
Proença Júnior. Its wide- as the Cruzeiro de São João. Castelo Branco
ranging collection includes
archaeological finds, displays Jardim Episcopal
of 16th-century tapestries " ⌂ Rua Bartolomeu da
and Portuguese primitive Costa # Daily
art. Castelo Branco is also
well known for its fine silk- Museu Francisco Tavares EAT
embroidered bedspreads, Proença Júnior
called colchas, and examples " ⌂ Largo Doutor José
of these are also exhib ited in Lopes Dias § 272 344 277 Dom Sancho I
the museum. # 10am–1pm, 2–6pm Tue– The open fireplace at
Housed in two buildings Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, this stone-walled
(one old and one modern), the 25 Dec restaurant in the old
popular Museu Cargaleiro town is warm and
has a remarkable collection of Museu Cargaleiro welcoming. The menu
rare paintings, tapestries and " ⌂ Rua dos Cavaleiros 23 includes local delicacies
ceramics, donated by the § 272 337 394 # 10am–1pm, such as hare with rice,
Manuel Cargaleiro Foundation. 2–6pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, rabbit and wild boar.
Beside the road back towards Easter, 25 Apr, 1 May, 25 Dec ! F3 ⌂ Largo do Corro,
Sortelha § 271 388 267
¢ Sun D, Mon
¡¡¡
Pousada do
Convento de
Belmonte
A beautiful restaurant
with original stone
features and wonderful
mountain views. The
gourmet dishes on the
tasting and à la carte
menus are equally
impressive.
! F3 ⌂ Serra da
Esperança, Belmonte
∑ conventode
belmonte.pt
¡¡¡
217
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A DRIVING TOUR
BORDER
CASTLES
EXPERIENCE The Beiras Length 115 km (72 miles) Stopping-off points Pinhel;
Almeida Terrain The tour uses well-surfaced roads; short
cuts are deceptive and not recommended
Defending Portugal’s frontiers was a vital priority of the
nation’s early kings. All along the shakily held border,
Spanish incursions were frequent and loyalties divided.
Castles were constantly being assaulted, besieged and
rebuilt, and the 20 that survived are a lasting reminder of
this long period of dispute. Follow this route to visit five
of these remaining fortified towns. Much of the terrain,
especially in the Serra da Marofa, is bleak and rocky, but
near Pinhel and beyond Castelo Mendo the scenic valley of
the River Côa provides a dramatic backdrop.
Part of the region’s defences since
Roman times, Pinhel formed
the fulcrum for a network
of fortresses, and in the early
14th century King Dinis, who was
responsible for the construction
of many of Portugal’s castles,
built it up into an impressive
citadel. Much of this ring of walls
survives, as do two towers. The
city has an abundance of cafés
and restaurants, making it a
good stopping off point.
One of the two surviving
towers that remain of the
citadel at Pinhel
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Just to the south of Figueira
de Castelo Rodrigo, topped by
a huge stone Christ the King, is
the highest point of the Serra Border
da Marofa, 977 m (3,205 ft). Castles
Tour
THE BEIRAS
The tiny fortified village of
Castelo Rodrigo still has its
encircling walls built by King Dinis
in 1296, but the fine palace of its
lord, the Spanish sympathizer
Cristóvão de Moura, was burnt Locator Map
down at the Restoration in 1640. For more detail see p192
Christ the King on the summit
of the Serra da Marofa
START Begin your tour at Almeida,
where there are plenty of
places to have breakfast or
lunch. The town’s star-
shaped defences are a finely
preserved example of the
complex but effec tive style
of fortifications developed
by the French engineer,
Vauban, in the 17th century.
Guarded by two stone
FINISH boars, little sur vives of the
castle at Castelo Mendo,
but the distant views from
the fort’s remains make it
the perfect place to end
your drive.
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NORTHERN
PORTUGAL
Porto .........................................................228
Douro and
Trás-os-Montes ..............................244
Minho .......................................................266
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A vineyard on a hill in the Douro Valley
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PORTUGAL
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EXPLORE
NORTHERN
PORTUGAL
This section divides Northern Portugal into three
colour-coded sightseeing areas, as shown on the
map above. Find out more about each area on the
following pages.
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GETTING TO KNOW
NORTHERN
PORTUGAL
EXPERIENCE Northern Portugal Beyond the cultivated valley of the Douro and the fertile Minho rises the
remote and romantically named Trás-os-Montes (“Behind the Mountains”),
with its tracts of wilderness and tiny medieval townships. Although
seemingly rural, Northern Portugal was the birthplace of the nation and is
where you’ll find the country’s most historic cities: Porto and Guimarães.
PORTO Best for
A lively yet affordable city break
PAGE 228 The country’s second city, Porto has never sat in Home to
Lisbon’s shadow. Its remarkable cityscape, wedged
Ribeira, Vila Nova de Gaia
into the Douro Valley, has been granted UNESCO World
Heritage status, while its range of museums, churches Experience
and port wine lodges have put it firmly on the city- A boat cruise up the Douro river,
break circuit. A foodie destination, its Michelin-starred stopping at port houses in Vila
Nova de Gaia
restaurants rub shoulders with more traditional places
serving the local speciality, tripe. Porto is also a hub for
architecture and many of its once-crumbling mansions
have been given a makeover, leaving an alluring mix of
faded grandeur and sharp design.
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DOURO AND TRÁS- Best for
Getting off the beaten track
PAGE 244 OS-MONTES Home to
Bragança’s Citadel,
On its way to the Atlantic, the Douro or “Golden River”
wends its scenic path through deep-cleft gorges,
Experience
terraced with vineyards and home to prosperous quintas Casa de Mateus
(wine estates) all dedicated to producing wine and port. A train ride on the scenic Linha
To the east, untrammelled Trás-os-Montes remains a do Douro from Porto to Pinhão
land of quiet stone villages amid fields of rye and
moorland. Full of historic associations, its isolated
capital Bragança lies on the edge of the wild Parque
Natural de Montesinho, a great choice for hikers.
MINHO
PAGE 266 The Minho occupies the northwest corner
of Portugal and is named after the river
that marks its northern boundary with
Spain. Outside the cities, the Minho’s
fertile farms have been handed down
within families for centuries. So, too, have
the traditions of carnivals and street
markets, creating an authentic slice of
Portuguese culture. Ox-drawn carts
still carry the area’s distinctive vinhos
verdes or “green wines” to market
in Barcelos. Walkers and wildlife
enthusiasts should not miss the craggy
peaks and untamed river valleys of
Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês.
Best for
Traditional life and wild walks
Home to
Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês, Viana do
Castelo, Braga, Bom Jesus do Monte
Experience
The traditional market at Barcelos, where local
produce and handicrafts sit side by side
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EXPERIENCE Northern Portugal Although largely mountainous, Northern 2
1
Portugal is well connected by fast roads and
railway lines. Here is a suggestion of how to
get the most from a visit to the region.
7 DAYS
In Northern Portugal 4
Day 1
Afternoon The steep hillsides of Vila
Morning After arriving in Porto, explore Nova de Gaia are punctuated by famous
Ribeira (p232), the iconic riverside area port wine lodges, each a perfect spot
with its warren of pastel-hued buildings. to sample the city’s eponymous spirit.
The Largo do Terreiro is a pretty spot for Return to Porto for the evening.
a coffee while you watch traditional
rabelo boats floating down the Douro. Day 3
Afternoon Taste modern dishes at the
Cantinho do Avillez, then climb the Torre Morning Peso da Régua is easily reached
dos Clérigos for amazing views (p239). by car or by the Linha do Douro train,
You’ll easily see how J K Rowling was which winds through the valley (p254).
inspired by Livraria Lello bookshop, where The town’s Museu do Douro details the
you can almost imagine the staircases history of the river and the wine trade,
moving of their own accord (p239). In the making for an enlightening visit before you
evening, catch an event at the innovative head to one of the quintas (wine estates).
Casa da Música (www.casadamusica.com). Afternoon Take a boat ride on the river
and then visit – or ideally stay the night
at – one of the many vineyards that dot
Day 2 the surrounding hillsides. Our pick
is Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora
Morning Walk across the top of the Ponte do Carmo (p255).
de Dom Luís to Vila Nova de Gaia. The view
from the circular Mosteiro da Serra do
Pilar is simply stunning (p234). Take the Day 4
Teleférico de Gaia cable car (p234) along
the riverside and lunch at one of the Morning Drive to Guimarães via the A7
Douro-facing cafés. The Yeatman is ideal and explore the beautiful old town, which
for a special occasion (p237). was the country’s first capital (p278).
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3
5
1 The brightly coloured
buildings of the Ribeira.
2 Cantinho do Avillez.
3 A lively street in Braga.
4 Bom Jesus de Monte.
5 Monte de Santa Luzia,
Viana do Castelo.
Afternoon Travel to Bom Jesus de Monte, You’ll pass plenty of these strange
a famous pilgrimage church (p276). The tomb-like structures on the 4-km-
town of Braga, Portugal’s religious capital, (2.5-mile-) long Trilho de Ramil trail.
is surprisingly lively, making it a great Have a picnic lunch en route, stopping
place to spend the evening (p274). Try somewhere with a good view.
Livraria Mavy – a bookshop which has been Afternoon After tiring yourself out
converted into an art-festooned bar (p280). exploring this ripe hiking territory,
stay in one of the renovated
Day 5 village houses in Soajo.
Morning A little under an hour’s drive away, Day 7
on the N103, is the Parque Nacional da
Peneda-Gerês (p270). Inside the country’s Morning It’s a scenic drive back to Porto
only national park, seek out the tranquil, on the IC28 and N203 along the Lima
alpine-esque spa town Caldas do Gerês. valley via the handsome town of Ponte de
Afternoon Spend the afternoon hiking Lima, which makes a good stop for a
one of the area’s many trails. The Trilho coffee (p281). We recommend Tasca das
da Cidade da Calcedónia walk starts and Fodinhas, an authentic café-bar (p280).
ends at Covide, and climbs to a fortified Afternoon Make a detour to stop for
Iron Age village which offers amazing lunch in historic Viana do Castelo (p272).
panoramic views. This picturesque town also has a fine
local beach. The fast A28 motorway
Day 6 will take you back to Porto.
Morning The village of Soajo, in the
northern section of the park, is known
for its peculiar espigueiros (granaries).
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Porto, across the Ponte de Dom Luís I, at dusk
PORTO
Ever since the Romans built a fort here at their
settlement of Portus, Porto has prospered from
commerce. The city was quick to expel the Moors
in the 11th century and to profit from provisioning
Crusaders en route to the Holy Land. Porto also
took advantage of the wealth generated by
Portugal’s extensive maritime discoveries in
the 15th and 16th centuries.
When Portugal lost the lucrative spice trade, as
her former colonies were taken up by the Dutch or
granted independence, Porto still thrived due to
the precious drink to which the city gave its name:
port. From its hillside, Porto looks across the
Douro to the lodges that nurture this fortified
wine, many of which bear the names of British
companies such as Taylor’s, Croft and Graham’s.
The trade with these foreign companies secured
the city’s fortunes.
Still a thriving industrial centre and Portugal’s
second-largest city, Porto, sometimes referred
to as Oporto, blends industry with charm – as
was evident in 2001 when the city was named
the European Capital of Culture.
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RUA DA GALERIA DE PARIS GOMES FERNANDES
RUA DE CLEMENTE MENERES
R. SÁ DE NORONHA
Jardim deJardim de
RUA FORMOSA
Carrilho VideiraCarrilho Videira
TÚNEL DOS ALMADAS
TÚNEL DOS ALMADAS
Museu SoaresMuseu Soares RUA DE CLEMENTE MENERES CORDOARIACORDOARIA PRAÇA GUILHERME PRAÇA GUILHERME Aliados Aliados RUA DE DO M JOÃO I RUA FORMOSA
RUA DE SÁ DA BANDEIRA
RUA DE JORGE VITERBO FERREIRA RUA DE JORGE VITERBO FERREIRA Senhor dosSenhor dos RUA PROFESSOR VICENTE RUA DO CARMO Igreja do CarmoIgreja do Carmo RUA DA GALERIA DE PARIS R U A DA FÁB R I CA RUA DE SÁ DA BANDEIRA RUA DE
dos Reis dos Reis
Jardim do Jardim do RUA RUA ADOLFO DE DOM MANUEL II R. DE CARLOS ALBERTO R. DE CARLOS ALBERTO GOMES FERNANDES R. SÁ DE NORONHA
RUA ADOLFO
RUA DOUTOR TIAGO DE ALMEIDA
Palácio de CristalPalácio de Cristal RUA DE DOM MANUEL II RUA DOUTOR TIAGO DE ALMEIDA RUA DE AVIS RUA DE AVIS AVENIDA DOS ALIADOS AVENIDA DOS ALIADOS RUA DE SANTA CATARINA RUA DE SANTA CATARINA
RUA DE DO M JOÃO I
CASAIS MONTEIRO
CASAIS MONTEIRO
RUA DO ROSÁRI O
RUA DO ROSÁRI O
Capela doCapela do
& Carmelitas& Carmelitas
R U A DA FÁB R I CA
RUA DO CARMO
Aitos
Aitos
Livraria Livraria
RUA DE PASSOS MANUEL
Lello
LEÕES
LEÕES
da Universidadeda Universidade
Rosa MotaRosa Mota Campus de SaúdeCampus de Saúde FONTE DOS FONTE DOS Lello RUA CÂNDIDO DOS REIS RUA CÂNDIDO DOS REIS RUA DO ALMADA RUA DO ALMADA BAIXABAIXA
Pavilion Pavilion do Porto do Porto AIRES DE GOUVEIA AIRES DE GOUVEIA RUA DO CONDE DE VIZELA RUA DO CONDE DE VIZELA ALIADOSALIADOS
JOSÉ DE CARVALHO
JOSÉ DE CARVALHO
Praça Praça RUA DAS CARMELITAS Igreja de SantoIgreja de Santo Igreja Paroquial deIgreja Paroquial de
Parada
Parada
RUA DA RESTAURAÇÃO Leitão RUA DOUTOR SILVA FERREIRA DA SILVA Leitão RUA DOUTOR SILVA FERREIRA DA SILVA CongregadosCongregados Santo IldefonsoSanto Ildefonso
RUA PROFESSOR VICENTE
RUA DA RESTAURAÇÃO
António dosAntónio dos
Praça dos Praça dos
Clérigos Clérigos
RUA DAS CARMELITAS
Jardim da Jardim da
RUA DE ALBERTO
RUA DE ALBERTO
RUA 31 DE JANEIRO
Cordoaria Cordoaria Torre and IgrejaTorre and Igreja RUA 31 DE JANEIRO LARGO DOS LARGO DOS
de Clérigosde Clérigos
CARVALHOS CARVALHOS
LARGO DOS LARGO DOS
LÓIOS
LÓIOS PRAÇA DAS PRAÇA DAS DO MONTE DO MONTE
CARDOSAS
R U A DA R E S TAU RAÇ Ã O Parque MunicipalParque Municipal RUA D E TR Á S RUA D E TR Á S São BentoSão Bento Station
R U A DA RESTAUR A ÇÃO
CARDOSAS
São BentoSão Bento
Station
RUA DOS CALDEIREIROS
MonchiqueMonchique das Virtudes das Virtudes
Convent Convent R UA DA BANDEIRINHA R UA DA BANDEIRINHA LARGO AMORLARGO AMOR RUA DOS CALDEIREIROS TRINDADE COELHO R E S
RUA DA VI T ÓRIA
Ruins Ruins DE PERDIÇÃODE PERDIÇÃO
CAMPO DOS MÁRTIRES D A P Á T RIA P Á T RIA
CAMPO DOS MÁRTIRES D A
RUA DE CIMO DE VILA
Centro PortugueseCentro Portuguese
TRINDADE COELHO
RU A D E M OUZ I NH O D A S I LV E IR A
Hazrat
Hazrat
Terço
da Fotogra ada Fotogra a RUA DA VI T ÓRIA RUA D A S FL O R E S RUA D A S FL O Mesquita Mesquita RUA DE CIMO DE VILA Igreja do Igreja do
Terço
Hamza
Hamza
RUA D E M ONC H I QU E
RUA D E M ONC H I QU E
R U A DE AZEV ED O DE A LB UQ UE RQ U E
R U A DE AZEV ED O DE A LB UQ UE RQ U E
RUA DO CATIVO
Igreja dasIgreja das HENRIQUES HENRIQUES RUA DO CATIVO
RUA DA PORTA DO SOL
Taipas Taipas RUA DE SÃO BENTO RUA DE SÃO BENTO Museu daMuseu da
DA VITÓRIA
di Porto di Porto
World of World of CALÇADA DAS VIRTUDES CALÇADA DAS VIRTUDES DA VITÓRIA MisericordiaMisericordia RU A D E M OUZ I NH O D A S I LV E IR A RUA CHÃ RUA CHÃ RUA DA PORTA DO SOL RUA DE AUGUSTO ROSA RUA DE AUGUSTO ROSA
RUA DAS FLORES
DiscoveriesDiscoveries Igreja da Igreja da
AVENIDA DOM AFONSO
AVENIDA DOM AFONSO
MisericórdiaMisericórdia RUA DAS FLORES Capela dosCapela dos
Museu dosMuseu dos Capela Capela RUA DE SÃO MIGUEL Alfaiates Alfaiates
RUA DE SÃO MIGUEL
Espírito Espírito
Transportes eTransportes e MIRAGAIAMIRAGAIA
LARGO DE
R U A D A B A IN H A R I A
ComunicaçãoesComunicaçãoes Santo Santo LARGO DAS LARGO DAS Igreja da Igreja da LARGO DE RUA SARAIVA DE CARVALHO RUA DO SOL RUA DO SOL
SÃO
SÃO
TAIPAS
TAIPAS
Vitória Vitória Capela doCapela do
DOMINGOS DOMINGOS
RUA SARAIVA DE CARVALHO
R UA DA PENA VENTOSA
RUA
RUA DA VITÓ RI A DA VITÓ RI A
Igreja de Igreja de
Jardim
PORTO PORTO São PedroSão Pedro R U A D A B A IN H A R I A R UA DA PENA VENTOSA Sé Arnaldo Arnaldo Postigo do SolPostigo do Sol
Jardim
Sé
RUA DE BELOMONTE São LourençoSão Lourenço DA SÉ AV. DE VIMARA PERES Santa Clara Santa Clara LARGO ACTOR DIAS
RUA DE BELOMONTE
de Miragaiade Miragaia RUA FRAN C I SCO DA ROCHA SOARES RUA FRAN C I SCO DA ROCHA SOARES TERREIRO TERREIRO Gama Gama R. GENERAL SO
DA SÉ
RUA DE ARNALDO
RUA DE ARNALDO
RUA F E RREIRA BORGES
Casa-MuseuCasa-Museu
Igreja de Igreja de
R. GENERAL SOUSA DIAS USA DIAS
Guerra JunqueiroGuerra Junqueiro
Igreja de Igreja de
RUA DE O COMÉRCIO DO PORTO
GAMA
RUA DE O COMÉRCIO DO PORTO
GAMA
(Grilos)
(Grilos)
RUA DE TOMÁS GONZAGA
RUA DE TOMÁS GONZAGA
LARGO ACTOR DIAS
RUA DE D OM HUGO
RUA DO MIRADOURO
Capela deCapela de
RUA DE MIRAGAIA
RUA DE MIRAGAIA
Paço
AV. DE VIMARA PERES
EpiscopalEpiscopal
Igreja de Igreja de RUA F E RREIRA BORGES São Salvador São Salvador RU A DOS MERCADORES Paço RUA DE D OM HUGO Capela da SenhoraCapela da Senhora RUA DO MIRADOURO
RUA DE SÃO JOÃO
Capela dasCapela das
RUA DE SÃO JOÃO
RU A DOS MERCADORES
S. João NovoS. João Novo RUA DA BOLSA RUA DA BOLSA T ÚN E L DA RIBE IR A do Patrocíniodo Patrocínio
Verdades Verdades
Palácio
Palácio
AVENIDA GUSTAVO EIFFEL
Funicular dosFunicular dos
INFANTE DOM HENRIQUE
da Bolsa da Bolsa
Guindais Guindais
RUA DO
T ÚN E L DA RIBEIR A
RUA DO
Capela daCapela da
Igreja de SãoIgreja de São
Lada
FranciscoFrancisco INFANTE DOM HENRIQUE RIBEIRARIBEIRA Lada AVENIDA GUSTAVO EIFFEL
Capela daCapela da
R UA N OVA DA A LFÂ NDEG A
R UA N OVA DA A LFÂ NDEG A
Senhora do ÓSenhora do Ó
Ribeira
R UA D A REBOLEIRA
Igreja de Igreja de R UA D A REBOLEIRA FONTE DO FONTE DO Ribeira
CUBO
CUBO
São NicolauSão Nicolau
PORTO CAIS DA CAIS DA
ESTIVA
ESTIVA
Ponte Dom Luís I Ponte Dom Luís I AV. DE VIMARA PERES
Must Sees y Jardim do Palácio de Cristal
1 Ribeira u Museu Soares dos Reis
R UA CABO SIMÃO
RUA C ASINO DA PONTE
2 Vila Nova de Gaia R UA CABO SIMÃO
D o u r o
AV. DE VIMARA PERES
Eat D o u r o RUA C ASINO DA PONTE
Experience More 1 Cantinho do Avillez
3 Sé 2 The Yeatman A V E N I D A D I O G O L E I T E
C A L Ç A D A S E R R A E S
Mosteiro daMosteiro da
4 Paço Episcopal Drink A V E N I D A D I O LARGO DE LARGO DE
AVIZ
AVIZ
Serra do PilarSerra do Pilar
5 Casa-Museu Guerra Junqueiro GAIA GAIA R U A G E N E R A L T O R R E S G O L E I T E C A L Ç A D A S E R R A
TeleféricoTeleférico
WHARFWHARF
6 World of Discoveries 3 Dick’s Bar TeleféricoTeleférico R U A G E N E R A L T O R R de Gaia de Gaia
R U A G U I L H E R M E G O M E S F E R N A N D E S
7 Museu dos Transportes e 4 Terrace Lounge 360 CAIS DE CAIS DE de Gaia de Gaia Jardim do MorroJardim do Morro
A V E N I D A R A M O S P I N T O
GAIA
GAIA
Comunicaçãoes Stay A V E N I D A R A M O S P I N T O R U A G U I L H E R M E G O M E S F E R N A N D E S Jardim doJardim do
R U A RO CHA L EÃO
R U A RO CHA L EÃO
RUA RODRIGUES DE FREITAS
8 São Bento Station 5 1872 River House Morro Morro
9 Palácio da Bolsa 6 Flores Village RUA DE FRANÇA RUA DE FRANÇA Vila Nova de GaiaVila Nova de Gaia RUA RODRIGUES DE FREITAS
10 Igreja de São Francisco 7 The Yeatman R U A C Â ND I D O D O S R U A C Â ND I D O D O S
11 Museu da Misericórdia do Porto VILA NOVA DE GAIAVILA NOVA DE GAIA
12 Torre and Igreja de Clérigos Shop RUA D O C HOUPELO RUA D O C HOUPELO A V E N I D A D A R E P Ú B L I C A A V E N I D A D A R E P Ú B L I C A
13 Livraria Lello 8 Chocolateria Ecuador RUA CABO BORGES RUA DOS POLACOS RUA DOS POLACOS
RUA CABO BORGES
14 Igreja do Carmo and Carmelitas 9 Fernandes Mattos & Co R E I S R E I S
15 Centro Portuguese da 0 metres 0 metres 200 N 200 N R U A G E N E R A L T O R R E S
Fotografia RUA 1º DE MAIO DE MAIO
RUA 1º
0 yards 0 yards 200 200
Yeatman Yeatman
Hotel Hotel
R U A G E N E R A L T O R R E S
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Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Pro
RUA DA GALERIA DE PARIS GOMES FERNANDES
RUA DE CLEMENTE MENERES
R. SÁ DE NORONHA
Jardim deJardim de
RUA FORMOSA
Carrilho VideiraCarrilho Videira
TÚNEL DOS ALMADAS
TÚNEL DOS ALMADAS
Museu SoaresMuseu Soares RUA DE CLEMENTE MENERES CORDOARIACORDOARIA PRAÇA GUILHERME PRAÇA GUILHERME Aliados Aliados RUA DE DO M JOÃO I RUA FORMOSA
RUA DE SÁ DA BANDEIRA
RUA DE JORGE VITERBO FERREIRA RUA DE JORGE VITERBO FERREIRA Senhor dosSenhor dos RUA PROFESSOR VICENTE RUA DO RUA DO Igreja do CarmoIgreja do Carmo RUA DA GALERIA DE PARIS R U A DA FÁB R I CA RUA DE SÁ DA BANDEIRA RUA DE PASSOS MANUEL
dos Reis dos Reis
Jardim do Jardim do RUA RUA ADOLFO DE DOM MANUEL II R. DE CARLOS ALBERTO R. DE CARLOS ALBERTO GOMES FERNANDES R. SÁ DE NORONHA
RUA ADOLFO
RUA DOUTOR TIAGO DE ALMEIDA
Palácio de CristalPalácio de Cristal RUA DE DOM MANUEL II RUA DOUTOR TIAGO DE ALMEIDA RUA DE AVIS RUA DE AVIS AVENIDA DOS ALIADOS AVENIDA DOS ALIADOS RUA DE SANTA CATARINA RUA DE SANTA CATARINA
RUA DE DO M JOÃO I
CASAIS MONTEIRO
CASAIS MONTEIRO
RUA DO ROSÁRI O
RUA DO ROSÁRI O
Capela doCapela do
& Carmelitas& Carmelitas
R U A DA FÁB R I CA
CARMO
CARMO
Aitos
Aitos
Livraria Livraria
RUA DE PASSOS MANUEL
Lello
LEÕES
LEÕES
da Universidadeda Universidade
Rosa MotaRosa Mota Campus de SaúdeCampus de Saúde FONTE DOS FONTE DOS Lello RUA CÂNDIDO DOS REIS RUA CÂNDIDO DOS REIS RUA DO ALMADA RUA DO ALMADA BAIXABAIXA
Pavilion Pavilion do Porto do Porto AIRES DE GOUVEIA AIRES DE GOUVEIA RUA DO CONDE DE VIZELA RUA DO CONDE DE VIZELA ALIADOSALIADOS
JOSÉ DE CARVALHO
JOSÉ DE CARVALHO
Praça Praça RUA DAS CARMELITAS Igreja de SantoIgreja de Santo Igreja Paroquial deIgreja Paroquial de
Parada
Parada
RUA DA RESTAURAÇÃO
RUA PROFESSOR VICENTE
RUA DA RESTAURAÇÃO Leitão RUA DOUTOR SILVA FERREIRA DA SILVA Leitão RUA DOUTOR SILVA FERREIRA DA SILVA CongregadosCongregados Santo IldefonsoSanto Ildefonso
António dosAntónio dos
Praça dos Praça dos
Clérigos Clérigos
RUA DAS CARMELITAS
Jardim da Jardim da
RUA DE ALBERTO
RUA DE ALBERTO
RUA 31 DE JANEIRO
Cordoaria Cordoaria Torre and IgrejaTorre and Igreja RUA 31 DE JANEIRO LARGO DOS LARGO DOS
de Clérigosde Clérigos
CARVALHOS CARVALHOS
LARGO DOS LARGO DOS
LÓIOS PRAÇA DAS PRAÇA DAS DO MONTE DO MONTE
LÓIOS
RUA DA RE ST A URAÇÃO Parque MunicipalParque Municipal RUA D E TR Á S RUA D E TR Á S São BentoSão Bento Station
CARDOSAS
CARDOSAS
RUA DA RE ST A URAÇ Ã O
São BentoSão Bento
Station
RUA DOS CALDEIREIROS
MonchiqueMonchique das Virtudes das Virtudes
Convent Convent R UA DA BANDEIRINHA R UA DA BANDEIRINHA LARGO AMORLARGO AMOR RUA DOS CALDEIREIROS TRINDADE COELHO R E S
RUA DA VI T ÓRIA
Ruins Ruins DE PERDIÇÃODE PERDIÇÃO
CAMPO DOS MÁRTIRES D A P Á T RIA P Á T RIA
CAMPO DOS MÁRTIRES D A
RUA DE CIMO DE VILA
Centro PortugueseCentro Portuguese
TRINDADE COELHO
RU A D E M OUZ I NH O D A S I LV E IR A
Hazrat
Hazrat
da Fotogra ada Fotogra a RUA DA VI T ÓRIA RUA D A S FL O R E S Mesquita Mesquita RUA DE CIMO DE VILA Igreja do Igreja do
RUA D A S FL O
Terço
Terço
Hamza
Hamza
RUA D E M ONC H I QU E
RUA D E M ONC H I QU E
R U A DE AZEV ED O DE A LB UQ UE RQ U E
R U A DE AZEV ED O DE A LB UQ UE RQ U E
RUA DO CATIVO
Igreja dasIgreja das HENRIQUES HENRIQUES RUA DO CATIVO
RUA DA PORTA DO SOL
Taipas Taipas RUA DE SÃO BENTO RUA DE SÃO BENTO Museu daMuseu da
DA VITÓRIA
World of World of CALÇADA DAS VIRTUDES CALÇADA DAS VIRTUDES DA VITÓRIA MisericordiaMisericordia RU A D E M OUZ I NH O D A S I LV E IR A RUA CHÃ RUA CHÃ RUA DA PORTA DO SOL RUA DE AUGUSTO ROSA RUA DE AUGUSTO ROSA
di Porto di Porto
RUA DAS FLORES
DiscoveriesDiscoveries Igreja da Igreja da
AVENIDA DOM AFONSO
AVENIDA DOM AFONSO
MisericórdiaMisericórdia RUA DAS FLORES Capela dosCapela dos
Museu dosMuseu dos Capela Capela RUA DE SÃO MIGUEL Alfaiates Alfaiates
RUA DE SÃO MIGUEL
Espírito Espírito
Transportes eTransportes e MIRAGAIAMIRAGAIA
LARGO DE
R U A D A B A IN H A R I A
ComunicaçãoesComunicaçãoes Santo Santo LARGO DAS LARGO DAS Igreja da Igreja da LARGO DE RUA SARAIVA DE CARVALHO RUA DO SOL RUA DO SOL
SÃO
SÃO
TAIPAS
TAIPAS
Vitória Vitória Capela doCapela do
DOMINGOS DOMINGOS
RUA SARAIVA DE CARVALHO
R UA DA PENA VENTOSA
RUA
RUA DA VITÓ RI A DA VITÓ RI A
Igreja de Igreja de
Jardim
Jardim
PORTO PORTO São PedroSão Pedro R U A D A B A IN H A R I A R UA DA PENA VENTOSA Sé Arnaldo Arnaldo Postigo do SolPostigo do Sol
Sé
RUA DE BELOMONTE
RUA DE BELOMONTE São LourençoSão Lourenço DA SÉ AV. DE VIMARA PERES Santa Clara Santa Clara LARGO ACTOR DIAS
de Miragaiade Miragaia RUA FRAN C I SCO DA ROCHA SOARES RUA FRAN C I SCO DA ROCHA SOARES TERREIRO TERREIRO Gama Gama R. GENERAL SO
DA SÉ
RUA DE ARNALDO
RUA DE ARNALDO
RUA F E RREIRA BORGES
Casa-MuseuCasa-Museu
Igreja de Igreja de
R. GENERAL SOUSA DIAS USA DIAS
Guerra JunqueiroGuerra Junqueiro
Igreja de Igreja de
GAMA
GAMA
RUA DE O COMÉRCIO DO PORTO
RUA DE O COMÉRCIO DO PORTO
(Grilos)
RUA DE TOMÁS GONZAGA
(Grilos)
RUA DE TOMÁS GONZAGA
LARGO ACTOR DIAS
RUA DE D OM HUGO
RUA DO MIRADOURO
RUA DE MIRAGAIA
Capela deCapela de
RUA DE MIRAGAIA
Paço
AV. DE VIMARA PERES
EpiscopalEpiscopal
Igreja de Igreja de RUA F E RREIRA BORGES São Salvador São Salvador RU A DOS MERCADORES Paço RUA DE D OM HUGO Capela da SenhoraCapela da Senhora RUA DO MIRADOURO
RUA DE SÃO JOÃO
Capela dasCapela das
RUA DE SÃO JOÃO
RU A DOS MERCADORES
S. João NovoS. João Novo RUA DA BOLSA RUA DA BOLSA TÚN E L DA R I B EI R A do Patrocíniodo Patrocínio
Verdades Verdades
AVENIDA GUSTAVO EIFFEL
Palácio
Palácio
Funicular dosFunicular dos
INFANTE DOM HENRIQUE
da Bolsa da Bolsa
Guindais Guindais
T Ú N EL DA R I B E IR A
RUA DO
RUA DO
RIBEIRA
Igreja de SãoIgreja de São
Lada
Lada
FranciscoFrancisco INFANTE DOM HENRIQUE RIBEIRA Capela daCapela da AVENIDA GUSTAVO EIFFEL
Capela daCapela da
R UA N OVA DA A LFÂ NDEG A
R UA N OVA DA A LFÂ NDEG A
Senhora do ÓSenhora do Ó
Ribeira
R UA D A REBOLEIRA
Igreja de Igreja de R UA D A REBOLEIRA FONTE DO FONTE DO Ribeira
CUBO
CUBO
São NicolauSão Nicolau
CAIS DA CAIS DA
ESTIVA ESTIVA
Ponte Dom Luís I Ponte Dom Luís I AV. DE VIMARA PERES
R UA CABO SIMÃO
R UA CABO SIMÃO
RUA C ASINO DA PONTE
D o u r o
D o u r o RUA C ASINO DA PONTE
AV. DE VIMARA PERES
A V E N I D A D I O G O L E I T E LARGO Mosteiro daMosteiro da
A V E N I D A D I O
C A L Ç A D A S E R R A E S
C A L Ç A D A S E R R A
LARGO
DE
DE
GAIA GAIA R U A G E N E R A L T O R R E S G O L E I T E AVIZ Serra do PilarSerra do Pilar
AVIZ
TeleféricoTeleférico
WHARFWHARF de Gaia de Gaia
TeleféricoTeleférico R U A G E N E R A L T O R R
R U A G U I L H E R M E G O M E S F E R N A N D E S
CAIS DE CAIS DE de Gaia de Gaia Jardim do MorroJardim do Morro
A V E N I D A R A M O S P I N T O Jardim doJardim do
A V E N I D A R A M O S P I N T O
GAIA GAIA R U A G U I L H E R M E G O M E S F E R N A N D E S
RUA RODRIGUES DE FREITAS
Morro
Morro
Vila Nova de GaiaVila Nova de Gaia R U A RO CHA L EÃO R U A RO CHA L EÃO RUA RODRIGUES DE FREITAS
VILA NOVA DE GAIA
VILA NOVA DE GAIA
RUA DE FRANÇA
RUA DE FRANÇA
R. DE SANTA MARI N HA R E P Ú B L I C A R E P Ú B L I C A RUA DOS POLACOS RUA DOS POLACOS
R. DE SANTA MARI N HA
R U A C Â ND I D O D O S
R U A C Â ND I D O D O S
RUA D O RUA D O R E I S R E I S R U A G E N E R A L T O R R E S RUA CABO BORGES
CHOU P E L O
CHOU P E L O
RUA CABO BORGES
ESCADA S D O CAMPAN ÁRIO
ESCADA S D O CAMPAN ÁRIO
A V E N I D A D A
A V E N I D A D A
RUA DO BARÃO RUA DO BARÃO Yeatman Yeatman 0 metres 0 metres 200 200 200 N
DE FORRESTER
DE FORRESTER
N 200
0 yards 0 yards
Hotel
Hotel
R U A G E N E R A L T O R R E S
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1
RIBEIRA
E3 @ 1M, 500, ZM, ZR v Infante g Casa do Infante
The riverside quarter of Porto is a warren of narrow, twisting streets
and shadowy arcades. Behind pastel-painted façades, many in faded
EXPERIENCE Porto windows and mixes in lively street scenes. As well as local life, Ribeira
glory, a working population earns its living, gossips through open
also offers plenty of trendy bars, cafés, boutiques and restaurants.
Ponte de Dom Luís I
The district is dominated at its eastern end by the
Ponte de Dom Luís I, which connects the two cities
of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. Constructed in
1886, it was designed by Theophile Seyrig – a
business partner of Gutave Eiffel. Spanning
172 m (564 ft), it was the longest metal arch
bridge in the world when it was first built.
Although it no longer holds this accolade, it is
still an impressive feat of engineering and offers
amazing views of Ribeira from its upper tier.
Ponte de Dom Luís I
stretching away from
the tiled houses
of Ribeira (inset)
232
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Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224
Must See
1
2
1 Vila Nova de Gaia, on the other
side of the Douro, is a good spot to
take a photo of Ribeira.
2 Linking Ribeira with the upper
town, the Funicular dos Guindães
saves a steep climb.
3 Largo do Terreiro, one of
the district’s main squares, is
3 surrounded by colourful houses.
Did You Know?
Before the bridge was
built, people used
boats tied together to
cross the Douro.
233
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EXPERIENCE Porto
The expansive Mosteiro
da Serra do Pilar,
overlooking the city
2 INSIDER TIP
VILA NOVA Teleférico de
Gaia Tickets
DE GAIA If you only want to buy
a one-way ticket on
the Teleférico de Gaia
cable car, choose to ride
the ascent to save a
E5 q Jardim do Morro @ 10M, 900, 901, 906 £ General steep uphill climb. The
Torres n Avenida Ramos Pinto; www.cm-gaia.pt journey only takes
Despite its proximity to Porto, Vila Nova de Gaia is five minutes but the
actually a separate city. Afonso III, in dispute with the photographs are well
worth the ticket price
bishop of Porto over shipping tolls, established a rival and you’ll disembark
port here in the 12th century and Vila Nova de Gaia with plenty of energy
has been the centre of Portugal’s port production ever to explore the upper
since, with some 50 port lodges based here. level of the city.
Renaissance. The monastery’s
1 "' prime position, overlooking
Mosteiro da the city, the Douro and Porto,
Serra do Pilar made it strategically
important in the French
⌂ Largo de Avis § 220
142 425 # Apr–Oct: 10am– invasions. Ironically, it was
used by both the Duke of
6:30pm Tue–Sun; (to
5:30pm Nov–Mar) Wellington and Napoleon at
different times to billet their
Sitting loftily on a hilltop troops and it was from its
above Vila Nova de Gaia, terrace that Wellington
this remarkable circular planned his surprise attack
monastery was built in the on the French in 1809.
16th century and reflects the The panorama from the
architectural ideals of the terrace is impressive enough,
taking in the port lodges
below, the sweep of the Douro
and the city of Porto on the
The Teleférico de Gaia cable far side, but you can climb up
car, hanging over traditional to the monastery’s dome for
barcelo boats even more far-reaching views.
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Must See
3
Casa-Museu
Teixeira Lopes DRINK
⌂ Rua de Teixeira Lopes 32
§ 351 22 375 1224 # 9am– Dick’s Bar
noon, 2–5pm Tue–Fri, This swanky hotel bar
10am–noon, 2–5pm Sun offers some of the best
& public hols views of the Douro
The former house and studio river. There’s a long
of Portuguese sculptor drinks menu, including,
Antonio Teixeira Lopes (1866– of course, port-
1942) has been beautifully based cocktails.
renovated and restored to E5 ⌂ The Yeatman,
how this wonderful example Rua do Choupelo ∑ the-
of regional architecture would yeatman-hotel.com
have been when Lopes lived
here. Displaying many of his Terrace Lounge 360
personal effects, it also houses An open-air rooftop
an impressive collection of his bar overlooking the
works. Some of his bronze and river, Terrace Lounge
2 marble sculptures are found 360 is a great spot for
a sundowner. Order a
in the atmospheric courtyard,
Jardim do Morro while others are on display glass of white port
in the Diogo de Macedo on a sweltering
⌂ Av da República summer evening at this
# Teleférico de Gaia cable Galleries, which were built stylish bar, with a
car: May–Sep: 10am–8pm in 1975. neutral colour scheme.
Don’t miss the selection of
daily; Apr & Oct: 10am–
7pm daily; Nov–Mar: art by his contemporary, the E4 ⌂ Espaço Porto
Cruz, Largo Miguel
10am–6pm daily painter and sculptor Diogo de Bombarda 23 § 220 925
∑ gaiacablecar.com Macedo (1889–1959), plus
paintings by the likes of Carlos 340 ¢ Mon
The design of the Jardim do Botelho (1899–1982) and
Morro has little changed since Amadeo de Souza Cardoso
it was built in 1927. The lake, (1887–1918).
bandstand and plants remain,
including the 22 linden trees
that line Avenida da República,
and the rubbish and graffiti- RUA NOVA DA A LFÂNDEGA
PORTO
scarred benches that occupied
it in recent years were Pont Luís I
removed in 2016. C A I S D E G A I A
The pretty garden lies at Castelo D o u r o Mosteiro da
de Gaia
the end of the top tier of the Serra do Pilar
Ponte Dom Luís I, making it a E I R A M I R O Teleférico Terrace
Lounge 360
great first stop in Vila Nova de Grahams’s de Gaia
Gaia. While away some time R U A R Port Ramos Sandeman
Porto
beneath the shady palms Ferreira Pinto Jardim do Jardim do
Morro
RUA DR.
Morro
here, gazing over the city, ANTÓNIO GRANJO Port Santa
the river and Porto below. Marinha
Once you’ve admired the RU A C Â NDIDO D O S REIS R EP Ú B LIC A
view, use the upper station of R UA RA M A D A A LTA Taylors RUA DO CHOUPELO
AVENIDA DA
the Teleférico de Gaia cable R U E S E R P A P I N T O Port Dick’s Bar
RU E G E NERAL T ORRES
Hotel VIA DA MISERICÓRDIA
car to explore the rest of the RUA VALE NTE PERFEITO LEONOR FREITAS Yeatman
RUA DONA
city. As it makes its way General
between the Jardim do Morro V I A R O S A M O T A Torres
and the port wine lodges
down on the riverfront, this VILA NOVA RUA DO C HOUPELO
Vila Nova
cable car gives its passengers AVENIDA M A N O EL DE OLIVEI R A DE GAIA R U A DE CÂNDIDO D OS R E I S RUA D E G E N E R AL TO R R ES
de Gaia
sweeping views over the
distinctive red-tiled rooftops RUA CONSELH E IR O VELOSO DA CRUZ
of Vila de Gaia’s port lodges.
0 metres 400 N
Casa-Museu
0 yards 400 Teixeira Lopes
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Pillory in Terreiro da Sé,
with Porto’s impressive
Sé behind
the palace was used by Pedro
IV’s troops as a stronghold in
EXPERIENCE Porto The building also served as
the battle against Miguel I.
seat of the Municipality of
Porto between 1916 and 1956.
The building that you can
visit today was first constructed
in 1772 under Nicolau Nasoni
(1691–1773), a highly influ-
ential Italian architect who
helped to introduce Baroque
styles to the Portuguese city.
Subsequent alterations have
left the palace with a mixture
of architectural styles.
Tours, which run every
half-hour for 30 minutes,
EXPERIENCE MORE take in a series of sumptuous
rooms that give an insight
into the lavish life style of
the bishops of Porto. The
invading French troops in ornate furniture includes
3 " 1809 by a hastily raised Indo-Portuguese cabinets
Sé plaster wall. The south and priceless paintings.
transept gives access to the
E3 ⌂ Terreiro da Sé
§ 222 059 028 # Apr–Oct: 14th-century cloisters and
9am–7pm Mon–Sat, 9am– the Capela de São Vicente. 5 "
12:30pm, 2:30–7pm Sun; An 18th-century stair case Casa-Museu Guerra
leads to the upper levels,
Nov–Mar: 9am–6pm Mon– Junqueiro
Sat, 9am–12:30pm, 2:30pm– where azulejo panels depict
6pm Sun the life of the Virgin and E3 ⌂ Rua de Dom
Ovid’s Metamorphoses.
Built as a fortress church in Hugo 32 § 222 003 689
# 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun
the 12th and 13th centuries, ¢ Public hols
the cathedral has been
modified several times. The 4 "' Poet and fiery Republican
beautiful rose window in Paço Episcopal activist Guerra Junqueiro
the west front is an original E3 ⌂ Terreiro da Sé (1850 –1923) is most widely
element, dating from the 13th # 9am–1pm, 2–6pm known for penning the verses
century. Don't miss the small Mon, Tue, Thu–Sat Finis Patriae (1890) and Os
chapel to the left of the ∑ diocese-porto.pt Simples (1892). His former
chancel, which has a dazzling home is an 18th-century
silver retable, saved from There has been a bishop’s Baroque gem, built by Nicolau
palace on this spot since the Nasoni, whose buildings are
13th century and the building found throughout the city.
INSIDER TIP has witnessed some momen- Inside, you'll find items
Barredo District tous occasions in Portuguese from the poet’s private collec-
Explore the Barredo history, including the coro- tion, which ranges from rare
district – the area nation of the first king of ceramics and Portuguese
between the Sé and Portugal. The Paço Episcopal furniture to Flemish tapestries
the riverfront – a maze was used as the residence of and a striking set of English
of steep alleys lined the city’s bishops until the ala baster sculptures. In the
with attractive bal Siege of Porto in 1832 when grand Dom João V Room,
conied houses. the bishop fled the city. you'll find a colourful parade
During this period of Civil War, of Chinese dogs.
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exhibition on the automobile
6 " and interactive exhibitions on
World of Discoveries media, science, new tech
STAY B2 ⌂ Rua de Miagaia 106 nologies and art.
# 10am–6pm Mon–Fri (to
7pm Sat & Sun) ¢ 1 Jan,
1872 River House 25 Dec ∑ worldof 8
Charming historical discoveries.com
townhouse on the São Bento Station
riverfront, with This familyfriendly interactive
contemporary decor. museum is located in the E2 ⌂ Praça Almeida
Garrett q São Bento
D4 ⌂ Rua do Infante heart of the city. The 20
Dom Henrique 133 themed areas recount Porto’s central railway station,
∑ 1982riverhouse.com Portugal’s his tory, including São Bento, was built in Beaux
the country’s ground breaking Arts style between 1900 and
¡¡¡
maritime achievements in 1916. The soaring walls of the
the 15th and 16th centuries. entrance hall are a feast of
Flores Village azulejos. The artist Jorge
Behind the façade of a Colaço adorned the station
traditional townhouse with some 20,000 decorative
lies a boutique hotel, 7 "- tiles depicting scenes such as
with garden and pool. Museu dos rural festivities, traditional
E2 ⌂ Rua das Flores Transportes e modes of transport and
139 ∑ floresvillage.com Comunicaçãoes historic events, such as the
Portuguese conquest of Ceuta.
¡¡¡ B2 ⌂ Rua Nova da
Alfândega, Edifício da It’s worth visiting the station
The Yeatman Alfândega # 10am–1pm, for the entrance hall alone,
An exclusive hotel with 2–6pm Tue–Fri, 3–7pm Sat & although it’s also the starting
point of the Linha do Douro –
sumptuous rooms and Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 24 Jun,
a top restaurant (p241). 25 Dec ∑ amtc.pt a train ride up the Douro
Valley past terraced vineyards.
E5 ⌂ Rua do Housed in a vast NeoClassical
Choupelo, Vila Nove da building on the riverfront, this
Gaia ∑ the-yeatman- museum includes a permanent
hotel.com
¡¡¡
Travellers admiring
azulejos (inset) in São
Bento rail station
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O Comércial. The glittering
9 "'\ highlight is the Arabian
Palácio da Bolsa Room. This galleried salon, Did You Know?
its complex blue and gold
D3 ⌂ Rua Ferreira Borges arabesques inspired by
# Apr–Oct: 9am–6:30pm The françesinha was
daily; Nov–Mar: 9am– Granada’s Alhambra, makes a invented by a local who
12:30pm, 2–5:30pm setting fit for Scheherazade – decided to make his
own version of a
daily ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec the heroine of One Thousand croque monsieur.
and One Nights.
EXPERIENCE Porto Where the monastery of São 0 "' q "
∑ palaciodabolsa.pt
Francisco once stood, the
city’s mer chants built the
Igreja de São
stock exchange, or Bolsa,
Museu da Misericórdia
Francisco
in 1842. The Tribunal do
Comércio, where the city’s
mercantile law was upheld, D3 ⌂ Rua do Infante do Porto
D2 ⌂ Rua das Flores 15
Dom Henrique § 222 062
is full of historic interest. 100 # 9am–5:30pm daily # Apr–Sep: 10am–6:50pm
Look out for the Pátio das (to 7pm Mar–Jun & Oct; to daily (to 5pm Oct–Mar)
Nações – the former trading 8pm Jul–Sep) ¢ 25 Dec ∑ mmippo.pt
floor – which is lined with
the flags of all the coun tries The building of this Gothic Santa Casa da Misericórdia
the exchange once traded church was begun in the was once the centre for
with. The stock exchange 1300s, but it is the 18th- Portugal’s most important
was in action until 1990, when century Baroque interior charitable organization,
it merged with the Lisbon that amazes visitors. Over which was founded in 1499.
stock exchange. The adjacent 200 kg (450 lb) of gold Spread over four floors, it is
courtyard (which you can encrusts the dazzling high now a museum that traces
enter without a ticket) has altar, columns and pillars, the fascinating history of the
a very smart restaurant, wrought into cherubs and organization’s philanthropic
gar lands, culminating with work, which included running
the Tree of Jesse on the north hospitals, a medical school and
wall. A tour includes the cata- an orphanage, as well as provi-
combs and treasures from ding legal aid for prisoners.
the church’s monastery, The museum features an
destroyed in 1832. impressive collection of art,
including evocative
portraits of the
organization’s
Palácio da Bolsa, most important
featuring the charitable donors,
gilded Arabian and reli gious
Room (inset) artifacts
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that attest to the wealth of
Santa Casa da Misericórdia.
Look out for the stunning
18th-century ivory statue
of the Crucifixion.
However, the museum’s
most precious possession is
the Fons Vitae (Fountain of
Life), donated by Manuel I
in about 1520. It shows the
king and his family kneeling
before the crucified Christ.
The artist’s identity remains
unproven, but both Van de
Weyden and Holbein have
been suggested.
The admission ticket also
includes entry to the adjacent
Igreja da Misericórdia. This
church was originally built in
the 16th century but was
given an impressive Baroque
makeover by famous Italian
architect Nicolau Nasoni in
the 18th century.
SHOP
Chocolateria
Ecuador Interior of Livraria Lello, e "
Located on a lovely said to have inspired Livraria Lello
pedestrianized street, author J K Rowling
this boutique sells D1 ⌂ Rua das Carmelitas
sublime artisan w " 144 # Mid-Jun–Sep: 10am–
chocolates (including Torre and Igreja 8pm daily; Nov–mid-Jun:
dark chocolate flavoured dos Clérigos 10am–7:30pm Mon–Fri,
with port, a nod to 10am–7pm Sat ¢ Public hols
the city’s main D2 ⌂ Rua São Filipe ∑ livrarialello.pt
industry), macaroons de Nery # 9am–7pm daily
and bonbons. ∑ torredosclerigos.pt This beautiful bookshop was
E2 ⌂ Rua das Flores founded by the Lello brothers
298 § 222 018 167 This unmistakable hill top in 1906, who commissioned
church was built in the 18th engineer Francisco Xavier
century by the Italian architect Esteves to design a grand
Fernandes Nicolau Nasoni. The soaring home for their limited edition
Mattos & Co Torre dos Clérigos with which books. Although it was always
This 19th-century the architect complemented buzzing with local customers,
fabric store may have his design is, at 75 m (246 ft), Livraria Lello is now a popular
kept its traditional still one of the tallest build- attraction, largely because it
fittings, including its ings in Portugal. The dizzying was here that author J K
wooden shelves, but it 240-step climb is worth it for Rowling is said to have gained
now sells games, toys, the superb views of the river, inspiration for Harry Potter
mugs and souvenirs. the coastline and the Douro and the Philosopher’s’ Stone. It
D1 ⌂ Rua das Valley. During the climb up does not take long to see why:
Carmelitas 108–114 you’ll come across a large the Neo-Gothic interior, with
§ 222 005 568
carillion, with 49 bells, that its gallery, stained-glass roof
can give you quite a fright if panels and curving double
you’re in the bell tower when staircase would not look out
they ring. of place in Hogwarts.
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EXPERIENCE Porto
14 hermits on Mount Carmel, Igreja do Carmo, noted
for the white-and-blue
in Israel. Insider, there are
Igreja do Carmo seven lavish gilt altars, the azulejos on its exterior
and Carmelitas work of sculptor Francisco
Pereira Campanha, as well as
D1 ⌂ Rua do Carmo
§ 222 078 400 # 8am– a number of fine oil paintings. serious offenders were in grim
noon, 1–6pm Mon, Wed, Joined by a very narrow dungeons while “respectable”
prisoners were allowed
house, the older Igreja das
9am–6pm Tue, Thu, 9am–
5:30pm Fri, 9am–4pm Sat, Carmelitas next door (meant spacious cells on the top floor.
9am–1:30pm Sun for Carmelite nuns) was com- The former cells and
pleted in 1628 in a combination communal spaces are now
Igreja do Carmo, a typically of Classical and Baroque styles. used as evocative backdrops
ornate example of Portu guese It is now part of a barracks. for temporary photographic
Baroque, was designed by the exhibitions. There is also a
architect José Figueiredo display of historic cameras
Seixas. The church was 15 and photographic equipment
constructed between 1750 on the top floor.
and 1768, and one of its most Centro Portuguese
remarkable features is the da Fotografia
monumental white-and-blue D2 ⌂ Largo Amor de
azulejo panel that covers one Perdição # 10am–6pm
of the outside walls. This was Tue–Fri, 3–7pm Sat, Sun
created by Silvestro Silvestri & public hols ∑ cpf.pt
and depicts the legendary
founding of the Carmelite This museum is one of Porto’s
order as a community of most intriguing spaces. As well
as displaying photography
and temporary exhibitions, it
PICTURE PERFECT also gives visitors a fascinating
Stairway Shot insight into the building’s
Walk down the very former incarnation as the
steep steps of Escada city’s tribunal and prison.
dos Guindais, alongside The prison opened in 1767
the Funicular dos and was so large that it had its
Guindais, to snap the own hospital and residences
Ponte de Dom Luís I for its guards. Prisoners
and Vila Nova de Gaia. were put on different floors
depending on their crimes:
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y 17 "
Jardim do Palácio Museu Soares dos Reis
de Cristal
B1 ⌂ Rua Dom Manuel II EAT
A1 ⌂ Rua Dom Manuel II # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
# 8am–9pm daily (to 7pm ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
Oct–Mar) 25 Dec ∑ museusoares Cantinho do Avillez
dosreis.pt Renowned Portuguese
Inspired by the Crystal Palace chef José Avillez’s
of London’s Great Exhibition The elegant Carrancas Palace, outstanding restaurant
in 1851, Porto’s own crystal built in the 18th century, has serves innovative
palace was begun in 1861. been a Jewish textile workshop, cuisine at highly
The steel and glass structure a royal abode and a military affordable prices.
of the original was replaced headquarters. In 1809, Porto D3 ⌂ Rua Mouzinha
in the 1950s by the Pavilhão was in French hands, and da Silveira 166
Rosa Mota, an ungainly shape Marshal Soult and his troops ∑ cantinhodoavillez.pt
dubbed “the half-orange”. were quartered here. They
The gardens themselves were ousted in a surprise ¡¡¡
are the star attraction here. attack by Arthur Wellesley,
They are truly a lovely place later Duke of Wellington, who The Yeatman
to walk around, with peacocks then calmly installed himself The food at this hotel’s
roaming the lawns, avenues of at the marshal’s dinner table. restaurant is every bit
lime trees, a rose garden with Today, the palace provides as memorable as its
fountains and wonderful an appropriate setting for an sublime views of the
views of the river. outstanding museum, named city. Each dish is
Con certs are occa sionally after António Soares dos Reis, accompanied by
held inside the palace, or in Portugal’s leading 19th-century fine wine.
the open air, and the leisure sculptor. Pride of place goes to E5 ⌂ Rua do
gardens are en livened by a the display of Portu guese art. Choupelo, Vila Nova da
fair at festa time. This includes paintings by the Gaia ∑ the-yeatman-
16th-century master Frey hotel.com
Carlos and the Impressionist ¡¡¡
Henrique Pousão. Also hung
Did You Know? here are landscapes of Porto
by the French artist Jean
Porto’s nickname is Pillement (1728 –1808).
“Invicta” because it The star sculpture exhibit, pottery, Limoges enamels,
was never conquered O Desterrado (The Exile), is porcelain and deco rative art.
during the War of the Soares dos Reis’ own marvel Historical exhibits include an
Two Brothers (p46). of pensive tension in marble, appealing 15th-century silver
completed in 1874. Further bust of São Pantaleão, patron
sections display Portuguese saint of Porto.
Admiring a painting
in the Museu Soares
dos Reis
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A SHORT WALK
PORTO’S
CATHEDRAL DISTRICT
EXPERIENCE Porto Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest station the city’s best jewellers RUA D AS FLORES
São Bento metro Time 15 minutes
Behind the traditional
shop-fronts in the Rua
Archaeological excavations show that Penaventosa
das Flores are some of
Hill, now the site of Porto’s cathedral, or Sé, was
inhabited as early as 3,000 years ago. Take a stroll
around this historic area, which, in its elevated
position, provides an excellent orien tation point and goldsmiths.
while you explore the rest of the city. Pause halfway
at the broad Avenida de Vímara Peres, named after
the military hero who expelled the Moors from the R . M O U Z I N H O D. S I LV E I R A
city in AD 868, which sweeps south past the Barredo’s
steep alleys and stairways. The view to the north is
towards the extraordinarily embellished São Bento
AV E N I DA D O M A F O N S O H E N R I Q U E S
station and the busy commercial heart of the city.
R U A E S C U R A
TERREIR O C A LÇ A DA D E VA N D O M A
D A S É R U A S A R A I VA D E C A R VA L H O
Gothic cloister of Porto’s
Sé, adorned with blue-
and-white azulejos
The broad open Terreiro da Sé R U A D E D O M H U G O
offers a wonderful panorama of
the city. In one corner stands a
stone pillory (pelhourino).
Although imposing and perhaps a
little forbidding from the outside,
inside Porto’s Sé contains many Paço Episcopal
small-scale treasures(p236). AV. D E V I M A R A P E R E S
The Casa-Museu Guerra Junqueiro
is a charming museum in a house that
once belonged to the 19th-century
poet (p236).
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Traffic hurries by
START oblivious to the
architectural diversity
of busy Praça de
FINISH Almeida Garrett
in the centre
of the city.
Locator Map
For more detail see p230
PR A ÇA DE
ALMEID A
RUA DAS FLORES GARRET T
S Ã O BENT O
S TATION
Porto’s central railway station, São
Bento Station was built on the site
R . M O U Z I N H O D. S I LV E I R A R U A D O LO U R E I R O of an earlier monastery and was
completed in 1916 (p237). Inside is a
feast of azulejos by Jorge Colaço,
depicting early modes of transport,
rural festivities and historic scenes.
AV E N I DA D O M A F O N S O H E N R I Q U E S R U A C H Ã
C A LÇ A DA D E VA N D O M A
One of the remaining
sections of the stone
Fernandine Wall
R U A S A R A I VA D E C A R VA L H O
The Fernandine Wall,
named after Dom Fernando,
was built in the 14th and 15th
centuries; only fragments here
and along the Cais da
Ribeira remain.
AV. D E V I M A R A P E R E S The Mannerist church of Santa 0 metres 50 50 N
Clara is intriguing because of
the strong con trast between
0 yards
its simple external façade and
the opulent gilded wood work
of its interior.
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Autumn foliage at a vineyard in the Douro Valley
DOURO AND
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
As early as the 9th century BC, Phoenician
merchants arrived in the Douro estuary to trade.
The Romans later developed the settlements of
Portus (modern-day Porto) and Cale on either side
of the river, and the names subsequently united,
as Portucale, to denote the region between the
Minho and Douro rivers. This was the nucleus of
the kingdom of Portugal.
The upper reaches of the Douro river are
devoted to the cultivation of grapes for port,
and the valley’s landscape and history has been
shaped by its endless vineyards and quintas (wine
estates). Manuel I ordered the widening of fishing
channels in the early 16th century in response to
the growing demand for port during the Age of
Discovery, as sailors requested barrel after barrel
of the fortified wine to see them through long sea
journeys. Between the 17th and 19th centuries,
England became the main consumer of the wine
grown in the region, resulting in the Methuen Treaty
of 1703, which mutually abolished tariffs. In 1756,
the Douro Valley became the first demarcated
wine region in the world.
In contrast with the thriving Douro Valley, Trás-
os-Montes is remote and untamed. It was a refuge
in the past of religious and political exiles. The
hard life and lack of opportunity to better it have
depopul ated the land; those who remain till the
fields and herd their flocks in the unforgiving
climate, according to the rhythm of the seasons.
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Viana do Bolo
Cortegada Cortegada Viana do Bolo 0 kilometres 0 kilometres 15 N N
15
Allariz Allariz
São Vilar de San Martín 0 miles 0 miles 15 15
São Gregório Celanova Vilar de Barrio San Martín de Castañeda
Celanova
DOURO AND Gregório Barrio Embalse Embalse de Castañeda
DOURO AND das Portas
S P A I N
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
S P A I N
TRÁS-OS-MONTES Penso S P A I N Xinzo de Limia das Portas S P A I N Puebla de Puebla de
Penso Xinzo de Limia A Gudiña A Gudiña Sanabria Sanabria
Castro Castro Bande Bande Mombuey Mombuey
Laboreiro
Serra da Peneda Serra da Peneda Valoiro Valoiro Tourém Verín Verín PARQUE NATURAL DE MONTESINHO Villardeciervos
Laboreiro
Rio de
Villardeciervos
Montesinho
Mofreita
Rio de
Montesinho
Mofreita
Onor
Onor
França
Tourém
França
Serra do Larouco
Serra do Larouco
Serra do Gerês
V I A N
Lindoso A
V I A N A
S erra S erra D O C A S T E L O Lindoso Portela do Serra do Gerês Montalegre Montalegre Rio Mente PARQUE NATURAL DE MONTESINHO São Julião
d o Ar g a
São Julião
Portela do
Homem
d o Ar g a
Vinhais
D O C A S T E L O
BRAGANÇA
Vinhais
Homem
Gimonde
BRAGANÇA
Albufeira do
Gimonde
Rio Mente
Alto Rabagão
Ponte de Lima
Alto Rabagão
S E R R A D O B A R RO S O
Ponte de Lima Campo do Campo do Paradela Albufeira do Soutelo Soutelo Rio Tuela Rio Tuela São Pedro
Gerês
S E R R A D O B A R RO S O
Gerês Paradela Zoio São Pedro
Zoio
Portela Pinzio Pinzio CHAVES CHAVES Rebordelo Rebordelo Alcañices
Lanheses Portela do Vade Rio Sabor Alcañices
Vilar de Nantes
do Vade
Lanheses Corvos Vilar de Nantes Rio Sabor
Darque Corvos Boticas Boticas
Darque Venda Nova Carvalhelhos Serra da Nogueira Serra da Nogueira Santa Comba
B R A G A
B R A G A Caniçada Caniçada Venda Nova Carvalhelhos Vidago Vidago Torre de Torre de Santa Comba Pinelo Pinelo
de Rossas
Dona Chama
de Rossas
Dona Chama
Valpaços Valpaços Vale de
Prado Prado Vale de Telhas Vimioso Vimioso
Mar Telhas Vinhas Izeda Izeda
Mar Eiró Eiró VIL A REAL Vinhas Malhadas Malhadas
Barcelos Rio Cávado Braga Braga VIL A REAL Romeu Romeu Macedo Macedo BR A GANÇA
BR A GANÇA
Barcelos Rio Cávado Cabeceiras Vila Pouca de Cavaleiros de Cavaleiros MIRANDA MIRANDA
DO DOURO
Cabeceiras
Fão Fão MINHO MINHO de Basto de Basto Vila Pouca de Aguiar Jou Jou MIRANDELA Morais DO DOURO
de Aguiar
Tebosa p266 p266 MIRANDELA Morais Duas
Tebosa Guimarães Cerva Serra de Bornes Chacim Duas
Chacim
Serra de Mogadouro
Estela Estela Vila Nova de Guimarães Cerva Franco Franco Serra de Bornes Igrejas Igrejas
Vila Nova de
Rates A Ver- Rates Famalicão
A Ver- Famalicão Mondim de Serra do Alvão MURÇA Souteio Souteio
o-mar o-mar Rio Mau Mondim de Serra do Alvão MURÇA Trindade Serra de Mogadouro
Trindade
Rio Mau Basto Basto Rio Tua Sendim Sendim
Felgueiras Felgueiras PARQUE NATURAL Abreiro Rio Tua
Abreiro
MOGADOURO
Vila do Longra PARQUE NATURAL Alfândega Alfândega MOGADOURO Bemposta Fermoselle Fermoselle
DO ALVÃO
Longra
Vila do Árvore Árvore Trofa SANTO DO ALVÃO da Fé Bemposta
Conde
da Fé
Conde Trofa SANTO TIRSO CASA DE Vila Flor Vale de Vale de
AMARANTE
TIRSO
VILA REAL
Mindelo Mindelo Coronado AMARANTE Fridão Fridão VILA REAL CASA DE Alijó Pombal Vila Flor Porco Porco
Pombal
Coronado MATEUS MATEUS Alijó Parada Parada
POR T O
Francisco Sabrosa Sabrosa PINHÃO PINHÃO Rio Sabor Trabanca
Francisco
Perafita Sá Carneiro POR T O Carrazeda de Carrazeda de Rio Sabor Trabanca
Perafita Sá Carneiro Ermesinde Paredes Carneiro Carneiro Ansiães Ansiães
Paredes
Matosinhos Ermesinde PENAFIEL PESO DA PESO DA TORRE DE
Matosinhos PENAFIEL MESÃO RÉGUA RÉGUA TORRE DE
MONCORVO
S P A I N
Valongo Paço de Sousa Baião MESÃO FRIO Rio Douro MONCORVO Rio Douro Rio Douro Duero S P A I N
Baião
Valongo
PORTO PORTO Paço de Sousa FRIO Rio Douro Pocinho Pocinho Duero
São João
Vila Nova de Gaia
Vila Nova de Gaia Boelhe Boelhe Cambres Cambres São João da Pesqueira FREIXO DE ESPADA
da Pesqueira
FREIXO DE ESPADA
Vila Nova
Cárquere Cárquere LAMEGO Armamar Armamar Vila Nova de Foz Côa À CINTA
Melres LAMEGO de Foz Côa À CINTA
Melres Tarouquela
Rio Douro
Aguda Rio Douro Tarouquela CINFÃES
Aguda CINFÃES Vitigudino
Vitigudino
Espinho Tarouca Tarouca
Espinho Moimenta Moimenta
da Beira
THE BEIRAS
THE BEIRAS da Beira
p190 p190
S er ra de
São João Arouca S er ra de Leomil Leomil
São João da Madeira Arouca
da Madeira
S erra de Arada
V I S E U
Ovar Vale de
Ovar Vale de Cambra V I S E U Serra de Lapa Aguiar
Oliveira Oliveira Cambra S erra de Arada Aguiar
Serra de Lapa
Torreira Estarreja A VEIR O Calde Calde da Beira da Beira
Torreira Estarreja A VEIR O
São Pedro São Pedro Sætão Sætão
do Sul
Albergaria- Albergaria- do Sul
a-Velha
São Rio Vouga a-Velha
Rio Vouga
São Jacinto Penalva do Penalva do
Jacinto Viseu Viseu Castelo Castelo
Aveiro Aveiro Talhadas Talhadas
Serra d o C a r a m u l o
Águeda Águeda Mangualde Mangualde
Vagos Serra d o C a r a m u l o
Vagos Nelas Nelas
Sangalhos Tondela Tondela
Sangalhos Gouveia Gouveia
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Viana do Bolo
Cortegada Cortegada Viana do Bolo 0 kilometres 0 kilometres 15 N N
15
Allariz Allariz
São Vilar de San Martín 0 miles 0 miles 15 15
São Gregório Celanova Vilar de Barrio San Martín
de Castañeda
Celanova
DOURO AND Gregório Barrio Embalse Embalse de Castañeda
DOURO AND das Portas
S P A I N
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
S P A I N
TRÁS-OS-MONTES Penso S P A I N Xinzo de Limia das Portas S P A I N Puebla de Puebla de
Penso Xinzo de Limia A Gudiña A Gudiña Sanabria Sanabria
Castro Castro Bande Bande Mombuey Mombuey
Laboreiro
Serra da Peneda Serra da Peneda Valoiro Valoiro Tourém Verín Verín PARQUE NATURAL DE MONTESINHO Villardeciervos
Laboreiro
Villardeciervos
Rio de
Montesinho
Mofreita
Rio de
Montesinho
Mofreita
Onor
Onor
França
Tourém
França
Serra do Larouco
Serra do Larouco
Serra do Gerês
V I A N
Lindoso A
V I A N A
São Julião
d o Ar g a
S erra S erra D O C A S T E L O Lindoso Portela do Serra do Gerês Montalegre Montalegre Rio Mente PARQUE NATURAL DE MONTESINHO São Julião
Portela do
d o Ar g a
Homem
Vinhais
D O C A S T E L O
Vinhais
Homem
BRAGANÇA
BRAGANÇA
Gimonde
Albufeira do
Gimonde
Rio Mente
Alto Rabagão
Ponte de Lima
S E R R A D O B A R RO S O
Alto Rabagão
Ponte de Lima Campo do Campo do Paradela Albufeira do Soutelo Soutelo Rio Tuela Rio Tuela São Pedro
S E R R A D O B A R RO S O
Gerês
Gerês Paradela Zoio São Pedro
Zoio
Portela Pinzio Pinzio CHAVES CHAVES Rebordelo Rebordelo Alcañices
Lanheses Portela do Vade Rio Sabor Alcañices
Vilar de Nantes
do Vade
Lanheses Corvos Vilar de Nantes Rio Sabor
Darque Corvos Boticas Boticas
Darque Venda Nova Carvalhelhos Serra da Nogueira Serra da Nogueira Santa Comba
B R A G A
B R A G A Caniçada Caniçada Venda Nova Carvalhelhos Vidago Vidago Torre de Torre de Santa Comba Pinelo Pinelo
de Rossas
Dona Chama
de Rossas
Dona Chama
Valpaços Valpaços Vale de
Prado Prado Vale de Telhas Vimioso Vimioso
Mar Telhas Vinhas Izeda Izeda
Mar Eiró Eiró VIL A REAL Vinhas Malhadas Malhadas
Barcelos Rio Cávado Braga Braga VIL A REAL Romeu Romeu Macedo Macedo BR A GANÇA
BR A GANÇA
MIRANDA
Barcelos Rio Cávado Cabeceiras Vila Pouca de Cavaleiros de Cavaleiros MIRANDA
DO DOURO
Cabeceiras
Fão Fão MINHO MINHO de Basto de Basto Vila Pouca de Aguiar Jou Jou MIRANDELA Morais DO DOURO
de Aguiar
Tebosa p266 p266 MIRANDELA Morais Duas
Tebosa Guimarães Cerva Serra de Bornes Chacim Duas
Chacim
Serra de Mogadouro
Estela Estela Vila Nova de Guimarães Cerva Franco Franco Serra de Bornes Igrejas Igrejas
Vila Nova de
Rates A Ver- Rates Famalicão
A Ver- Famalicão Mondim de Serra do Alvão MURÇA Souteio Souteio
o-mar o-mar Rio Mau Mondim de Serra do Alvão MURÇA Trindade Serra de Mogadouro
Trindade
Rio Mau Basto Basto Rio Tua Sendim Sendim
Felgueiras Felgueiras PARQUE NATURAL Abreiro Rio Tua
Abreiro
MOGADOURO
DO ALVÃO
Vila do Longra PARQUE NATURAL Alfândega Alfândega MOGADOURO Bemposta Fermoselle Fermoselle
Longra
Vila do Árvore Árvore Trofa SANTO DO ALVÃO da Fé Bemposta
Conde
da Fé
Conde Trofa SANTO TIRSO CASA DE Vila Flor Vale de Vale de
TIRSO
AMARANTE
CASA DE
VILA REAL
Mindelo Mindelo Coronado AMARANTE Fridão Fridão VILA REAL Alijó Pombal Vila Flor Porco Porco
Pombal
Coronado MATEUS MATEUS Alijó Parada Parada
POR T O
Francisco Sabrosa Sabrosa PINHÃO PINHÃO Rio Sabor Trabanca
Francisco
Perafita Sá Carneiro POR T O Carrazeda de Carrazeda de Rio Sabor Trabanca
Perafita Sá Carneiro Ermesinde Paredes Carneiro Carneiro Ansiães Ansiães
Paredes
Matosinhos Ermesinde PENAFIEL PESO DA PESO DA TORRE DE
Matosinhos PENAFIEL MESÃO RÉGUA RÉGUA TORRE DE
MONCORVO
S P A I N
Valongo Paço de Sousa Baião MESÃO FRIO Rio Douro MONCORVO Rio Douro Rio Douro Duero S P A I N
Baião
Valongo
PORTO PORTO Paço de Sousa FRIO Rio Douro Pocinho Pocinho Duero
São João
Vila Nova de Gaia
Vila Nova de Gaia Boelhe Boelhe Cambres Cambres São João da Pesqueira FREIXO DE ESPADA
da Pesqueira
Vila Nova
FREIXO DE ESPADA
Cárquere Cárquere LAMEGO Armamar Armamar Vila Nova de Foz Côa À CINTA
Melres LAMEGO de Foz Côa À CINTA
Melres Tarouquela
Aguda Rio Douro Tarouquela CINFÃES
Rio Douro
Aguda CINFÃES Vitigudino
Vitigudino
Espinho Tarouca Tarouca
Espinho Moimenta Moimenta
da Beira
THE BEIRAS
THE BEIRAS da Beira
p190 p190
S er ra de
São João Arouca S er ra de Leomil Leomil DOURO AND TRÁS-OS-MONTES
São João da Madeira Arouca
da Madeira
S erra de Arada
V I S E U
Ovar Vale de Must Sees 10 Vila Real
Ovar Vale de Cambra V I S E U Serra de Lapa Aguiar
Oliveira Oliveira Cambra S erra de Arada Aguiar 1 Bragança 11 Serra do Barroso
Serra de Lapa
13 Mirandela
Torreira Estarreja A VEIR O Calde Calde da Beira da Beira 2 Casa de Mateus 12 Chaves
Torreira Estarreja A VEIR O Experience More
São Pedro São Pedro Sætão Sætão 14 Murça
do Sul
Albergaria- Albergaria- do Sul 3 Santo Tirso 15 Parque Natural de Montesinho
a-Velha
São Rio Vouga a-Velha 4 Penafiel
Rio Vouga
São Jacinto Penalva do Penalva do 16 Miranda do Douro
Jacinto Viseu Viseu Castelo Castelo 5 Cinfães
Aveiro Aveiro Talhadas Talhadas 6 Amarante u Mogadouro
Serra d o C a r a m u l o
i Torre de Moncorvo
8 Mesão Frio
Águeda Águeda Mangualde Mangualde 7 Peso da Régua o Freixo de Espada à Cinta
Vagos Serra d o C a r a m u l o p Pinhão
Vagos Nelas Nelas 9 Lamego a Parque Natural do Alvão
Sangalhos Tondela Tondela
Sangalhos Gouveia Gouveia
246-247_EW_Portugal.indd 247 20/09/2018 10:41
1 "
BRAGANÇA Did You Know?
! F1 n Avenida Cidade de Zamora (273 381 273); The Porta da Traição
Rua Abílio Beça; www.visitbraganca.eu translates as the “Gate
of Betrayal”.
This town gave its name to Portugal’s final royal
EXPERIENCE Douro and Trás-os-Montes Bragança is shrouded in history and legend. shows a hapless porca,
dynasty, descended from an illegitimate son of
João I who was created first duke of Bragança
in 1442. Dominated by an imposing citadel,
The medieval pillory
The Citadel
an ancient stone pig.
This strategic hilltop was the site of a succession of forts
before Fernão Mendes, brother-in-law to King Afonso
Henriques, built a walled citadel here in 1130 and kept
its historic name: Brigantia. Within the walls still stand
Sancho I’s castle, built in 1187, with its watch towers and
dungeons, and the pentagonal 12th-century Domus
Municipalis, beside the church of Santa Maria. The citadel
is closed on Mondays and public holidays.
The Town
By the 15th century, Bragança had expanded west along
the banks of the Fervença river. The Jewish quarter,
which centres around Rua dos Fornos, survives from this
era, when Jews from North Africa and Spain settled here
and founded the silk industry. Head to the lively covered
market, by the old cathedral, where delicacies such as
smoked hams and alheiras (chicken sausages) are sold.
Porta de
Santo Porta
António da Vila
1
1 The citadel dominates
the town of Bragança.
2 The Domus Municipalis is
the only surviving example of
Romanesque civic architecture
in Portugal. It served as a hall
where the homens bons (“good
men”) settled disputes.
3 The castle’s Torre da
Princesa, scene of many tragic
tales, was refuge to Dona
Sancha, unhappy wife of
Fernão Mendes, and prison
to other mistreated royal
2 3 wives kept in the citadel.
248
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Must See
Torre da Porta da The Museu Militar in the
Princesa Traição robust Gothic keep
displays items from the
Africa campaigns (1895).
Santa Maria’s
elaborately carved
portal dates from
the 18th century.
Domus Municipalis
Porta do
Sol
Bragança’s citadel,
Streets of small houses with its large keep,
still cluster within the church and houses
walls of the citadel.
Timeline 1130 1150 1442 1496
▲ João I becomes
▲ Citadel built by
▲ The Domus
▲ Manuel I expels
Afonso Henriques’
Municipalis is built
the Jewish population
the first duke
brother-in-law to be a meeting place of Bragança from the town
249
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EXPERIENCE Douro and Trás-os-Montes
2 "'-=
CASA
DE MATEUS
E2 ⌂ Mateus, 3 km (2 miles) E of Vila Real £ To Vila Real @
# May–Oct: 9am–7pm daily (to 6:30pm Apr; to 5pm Nov-Mar)
∑ casademateus.com
The splendid manor house depicted on the labels of Mateus Rosé wine
epitomizes the flamboyance of Baroque architecture in Portugal. Casa
de Mateus was built in the early 18th century, probably by Nicolau Nasoni,
for António José Botelho Mourão, whose descendants still live here.
Tours start in the first-floor entrance salon, a Little remains of the original gardens planted
well-proportioned room graced by a pair of by the 4th Morgado’s uncle, who was an
sedan chairs and with a magnificent wooden archdeacon in Rome, and the gardens that
ceiling featuring family coats of arms. The Tea you can see today were laid out in the 1930s
Salon has a 17th-century William and Mary and 1940s. The style, however, is of an earlier,
cupboard and matching longcase clock from romantic era and the complex parterres and
England, while the Salon of the Four Seasons formal beds edged with tightly clipped dwarf
gets its name from the large 18th-century box hedges form a living tapestry that reflects
paintings on its walls. The library, remodelled perfectly the ornate symmetry of the house.
in the mid-20th century, contains volumes In winter, the grand old camellias, relics from
dating back to the 16th century, but the rarest the 19th century, are a highlight of the
book is in the small museum: an 1817 copy gardens, but for most visitors the lasting
of Os Lusíadas, with engravings by leading memory is of the vast cedar tunnel, greatest
artists. Also on display in the museum is family among the many pieces of topiary here.
correspondence with famous historic figures, Beyond the formal gardens lie the well-
including Frederick the Great and Wellington. ordered orchards and fields of the estate.
250
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and
comprehensive maps for exploring Portugal.
Take a leisurely walking tour of Lisbon, island-hop around the Azores, become a connoisseur of the country's
port or relax on Madeira's golden beaches: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-
coded chapters. Discover the best of Portugal with this indispensable travel guide.
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- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of Sintra's Pena Palace, the UNESCO World Heritage site of
Alcobaça and Lisbon's Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
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centres and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Lisbon - Alfama, Baixa and Avenida, Bairro Alto and Estrela,
Belém and further afield - the Lisbon Coast, Estremadura and Ribatejo, the Beiras, Douro and Trás-os- Montes, Minho, Alentejo, the Algarve, Madeira and the Azores
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DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Portugal is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from
your visit to Portugal.
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