(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

PORTO SANTOPORTO SANTO

Ilhéu da FonteIlhéu da Fonte Ilhéu Ilhéu
da Areia da Areia das Cenourasdas Cenouras
A tl anticA tl antic Camacha Camacha Serra de DentroSerra de Dentro
Ponta Ponta
Farrobo Farrobo
PORTO MONIZ Oc eanOc ean do Varadourodo Varadouro Serra de Serra de Ponta
PORTO MONIZ
Fora
Fora
Ponta
Ponta do Ponta do Porto SantoPorto Santo dos Ferreirosdos Ferreiros
Tristão Tristão Tanque Tanque
Santa Santa Lamaceiros Lamaceiros Campo de CimaCampo de Cima Vila Vila Ponta da GaléPonta da Galé
Ilhéu Ilhéu Baleira Baleira
Achadas Achadas Ribeira da Janela de Ferro de Ferro Ilhéu Ilhéu
Ribeira da Janela
da Cruz da Cruz Ponta de Ponta de de Cima de Cima
São Jorge São Jorge Cabeço da PontaCabeço da Ponta
ZimbralinhoZimbralinho
São Jorge São Jorge Ponta Ponta
Ponta de Santana
Ponta Delgada
Ponta Delgada Ponta de Santana
Seixal Seixal Ponta Ponta
Ribeira da Vaca Achada da Cruz da Calheta da Calheta
Ribeira da Vaca
Achada da Cruz
Ribeira Ribeira
Boaventura Boaventura Funda Funda
Ponta do Ponta do Ilhéu de BaixoIlhéu de Baixo
SANTANA
Senhora Senhora
Pargo Pargo Fanal Fanal Ilha Ilha SANTANA ou da Cal ou da Cal
SÃO VICENTE
do Amparo do Amparo Ribeira da Janela 1320m Montado dos Montado dos SÃO VICENTE Achada Achada Funchal Funchal
75 km (46 miles)75 km (46 miles)
Lameiros Lameiros
Cabeço da Roseira Remal Remal Pessegueiros Pessegueiros Ginjas Ginjas Achada Achada do Marques do Marques Faial Faial
Cabeço da Roseira
1320m
Queimadas Queimadas
Ribeira da Janela
Fajã da Ovelha Pico Ruivo Pico Ruivo da Madeira da Madeira Pico CanárioPico Canário
Fajã da Ovelha
do Paúl
do Paúl
1640m 1640m 1592m 1592m Porto da Cruzto da Cruz
Por
Ponta do Ponta do Boca da Boca da Achada do Achada do
Casado
Pesqueiro Pesqueiro RaposeiraRaposeira EncumeadaEncumeada Casado Teixeira Teixeira CruzinhasCruzinhas Ponta do Ponta do
PAÚL DA SERRA
PAÚL DA SERRA Bica da Bica da 1007m PICO RUIVOPICO RUIVO Referta Referta Maiata
Espig
Espigão Amareloão Amarelo
1725m
1725m
1007m
Maiata
Paúl do Mar Paúl do Mar Prazeres Prazeres Cana Cana Pico da CoroaPico da Coroa Ponta de Ponta de
1620m
1620m
738m
738m
São Lourenço São Lourenço
1851m
1851m
Fajã dos Fajã dos
Chã da Quebrada
Lombo Lombo Pico GrandePico Grande Pico das TorresPico das Torres Balcöes Portela Portela
Balcöes
Cardos
Jardim do Mar dos Reis dos Reis Chã da Quebrada 1657m 1657m Cardos 860m 860m Ribeira Ribeira Maroços Maroços CANIÇAL CANIÇAL Ilhéu Ilhéu
Jardim do Mar
Prainha Prainha
RIBEIRORIBEIRO
Lombo das Tercas Lombo das Tercas DAS FREIRAS MACHICO MACHICO
Ribeira Seca Ribeira Seca
PICO DOPICO DO
Serr
CALHETA Serra de Águaa de Água ARIEIROARIEIRO FRIO FRIO de Machico de Machico Santo António da Cevadada Cevada Ilhéu
CALHETA
Ilhéu
Santo António
CURRAL CURRAL
do Farol do Farol
da Serra da Serra
DAS FREIRAS
Passo de Poiso
Água de Pena
Arco da Calheta Lombo do Mouro Lombo do Mouro Esteios Esteios Passo de Poiso João Ferino João Ferino Água de Pena
Arco da Calheta
1400m
1400m
Madalena Madalena Jardim Jardim 1346m 1346m ChoupanaChoupana Terça Terça
do Mar do Mar da Serra da Serra Pico Alto Pico Alto Águas Águas Cristiano RonaldoCristiano Ronaldo Porto SantoPorto Santo
Canhas Canhas Lugar Lugar Mansas Mansas InternationalInternational 75 km (46 miles)75 km (46 miles)
Candelária Candelária da Serra da Serra 1129m 1129m
MONTEMONTE Santa Cruz Santa Cruz
Ponta do Sol
Ponta do Sol São João São João CAMACHACAMACHA
Tabúa Tabúa Campanário Campanário Santo Santo Gaula Gaula
RIBEIRA BRAVA
São João São João
A tl anticA tl antic RIBEIRA BRAVA Quinta Grande António António de Latrão de Latrão QUINTA DOQUINTA DO
Quinta Grande
PALHEIRO FERREIROPALHEIRO FERREIRO
São
São
Oc eanOc ean CÂMARA DE Gonçalo Gonçalo Caniço Caniço
CÂMARA DE
São
São
LOBOS LOBOS Martinho Martinho FUNCHALFUNCHAL Caniço de Baixo
Caniço de Baixo
Garajau Garajau
Ponta da Oliveira
Ponta da Oliveira
MADEIRAMADEIRA
0 kilometres0 kilometres 5 5 N N
0 miles 0 miles 5 5
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EXPERIENCE Madeira











The yellow façades of
buildings on the front of
Funchal’s harbour

1
FUNCHAL DRINK



! B7 k Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport, 18 km The Old Blandy
(11 miles) NE @ Avenida do Mar g n Avenida Arriaga 16; Wine Lodge
291 211 902 Take a guided tour,
sampling wines made
The deep natural harbour of Madeira’s capital, Funchal, here more than 150
attracted early settlers in the 15th century. The city’s years ago, as well as
historic core still overlooks the harbour and has an air more recent (and
of grandeur, with its stately 18th-century houses. cheaper) vintages. Museu UNIVERSITY CARMO Botânico
Jardim
⌂ Av Arriaga 28 SANTA Quinta das QUARTER QUARTER 1 km (0.6 mile)
CLARA
¢ Sun ∑ blandys Jardim da Cruzes MERCÉS Câmara Ribeira de Santa Luzia DO REGO
RUA DAS
RU A B R I GADEIRO OU DIN OT
1 where enough light filters in winelodge.com Fortaleza Converto de São Pedro Municipal RUA DA CONCEI ÇÃO R. DO CARMO RU A DA I N FÂNC IA
TRAVESSA
do Pico
to illuminate the intricate
Santa Clara
Sé patterning. The choir stalls R. DAS CRUZES Museu Municipal Igreja do Colégio Museu de SEMINÁRIO RU A RIBEIRINHO DE BAIXO ZONA
CALÇADA SANTA CLARA
PRAÇA DO
RUA DO
depict saints, prophets and Funchal SURDO R U A DA S PRETAS MUNICÍPIO Arte Sacra TV. DA MALTA V I S CON DE DE AN AD I A VELHA
R. DO Q.
COSTAS
⌂ Largo da Sé § 291 228 Apostles in 16th­century Cemitério SÃO RUA DR FERNÃO ORNELAS RUA HOSPITAL VELHO
RUA DO ALJUBE
R U A D A C
R. DO
155 # 9–11am, 3–5pm Britânico PEDRO The Old TAV I R A R. Q. BAIXO R . DIREITA Mercado dos
R U A 5 DE O UTUBRO
Blandy
RUA NOVA
Lavradores
Mon–Fri costume. Aspects of Madeiran em broidered vestments and R. DA ALEGRIA A R R E I R A DE SÃO PEDRO Wine Sé R. ESMERALDO RUA 31 DE JANEIRO TRAV. J. CAETANO TRAV. PIEME
R U A J OÃ O
life feature on the arm rests illuminated hymn books for R. MAJOR REIS GOMES RUA IVENS Lodge CATHEDRAL R. DE SÉ RUA DO RUA DE SANTA MARIA
QUARTER
The cathedral is one of the and seats: one cherub carries their churches. Hundreds of RUA DR. BRITO CÂMARA Café Ritz AVE ZARCO R. DAS MURÇAS PRAÇA DO RUA DOM CARLOS I
COLOMBO
Funchal
few buildings in Madeira a bunch of bananas, another examples now fill this museum, C A LO U S T E G U L BE N K I A N ARANHAS Palácio de R. DA ALFÂNDEGA RUA DA PRAIA PRAÇA DA C. DOM CARLOS I Teleférico
R. DOS
to have survived virtually has a goatskin full of wine. housed in the 17th­century AVE. ARRIAGA São Lourenço AUTONOMIA Funchal– Fortaleza de
Monte
untouched since the early bishop’s palace. There are PRAÇA DO PRAÇA DO Praia de São Tiago
200 m
POVO
days of the island’s coloni­ some master pieces in the INFANTE R. DAS AVENIDA DO MAR E DAS COMUNIDADES MADEIRENSES Barreirinha ( 220 yards)
FONTES
zation. In the 1490s, King collection, such as the late­ A V E N I D A D O I N F A N T E
Marina
Manuel I sent the architect 2 " Gothic processional cross Jardim de ROTUNDA SÁ Funchal Cais da
Santa
CARNEIRO
A V E N I D A S Á C A R N E I R O
Pêro Anes from the mainland Museu de Arte Sacra donated by King Manuel I, and Catarina Cidade Porto Santo
to work on the Sé and it was ⌂ Rua do Bispo 21 § 291 paintings by major Flemish Jardim da 75 km
finally completed in 1514. 228 900 # 10am–12:30pm, artists of the 15th and 16th Quinta da EST R AD A DA P O N TI NH A (46 miles)
Vigia
The highlights are the 2:30–6pm Tue–Sat, 10am– centuries. Some works include Bahia de Funchal
ceiling and the choir stalls, 1pm Sun ¢ Public hols portraits of the dignitaries Museu CR7
though neither is easy to see who com missioned them. Hotel Zone
1 km
in the dark interior. The ceiling Madeiran merchants sought For example, Saints Philip (0.6 mile)
of inlaid wood is best seen to secure their salvation by and James shows Simão
from the south transept, commissioning works of art, Gonçalves de Câmara.
Design Centre 0 metres 250 N
Funchal Nini Andrade Silva P O R T O D O F U N C H A L
352 0 yards 250
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Must See

Manueline-style window
frame in the gardens of the
Museu Quinta das Cruzes


3 "
Museu Quinta
das Cruzes
⌂ Calçada do Pico 1 § 291
740 670 # 10am–12:30pm,
2–5:30pm Tue–Sun
¢ Public hols
It is said that Zarco, the man
who claimed Madeira for
Portugal, built his house
where the Quinta das Cruzes
now stands. The elegant
19th-century mansion is now
the Museum of Decorative
Arts, and it is furnished as cupboards when the sugar
a wealthy Madeiran sugar trade moved to Brazil in
merchant’s house with Indian the 18th century.
silk wall hangings, Regency The romantic garden
sideboards and Oriental is dotted with ancient
Did You Know? carpets. On the ground floor, tombstones and architectural
look out for the examples fragments. These include
Rua de Santa Maria is of furniture made from two window frames from
the place for street art mahogany packing cases. In 1507 carved with rope motifs,
(www.arteportas the 17th century, these would acrobatic figures and man-
abertas.com). have been used for shipping eating lions in a Madeiran
sugar before being turned version of the Manueline
into charming chests and style of architecture (p19).

Jardim
SANTA Museu UNIVERSITY CARMO Botânico
CLARA Quinta das MERCÉS QUARTER QUARTER DO REGO TRAVESSA 1 km (0.6 mile)
Jardim da Cruzes Câmara Ribeira de Santa Luzia
RUA DAS
RU A B R I GADEIRO OU DIN OT
Fortaleza CALÇADA SANTA CLARA São Pedro Municipal RUA DA CONCEI ÇÃO R. DO CARMO
do Pico Converto de RU A DA I N FÂNC IA
R. DAS CRUZES Santa Clara Igreja do Colégio R U A 5 DE O UTUBRO
Museu Municipal PRAÇA DO Museu de SEMINÁRIO RU A RIBEIRINHO DE BAIXO ZONA
RUA DO
Funchal SURDO R U A DA S PRETAS MUNICÍPIO Arte Sacra TV. DA MALTA V I S CON DE DE AN AD I A VELHA
R. DO Q.
COSTAS
RUA DO ALJUBE
R U A D A C
Cemitério SÃO RUA DR FERNÃO ORNELAS RUA HOSPITAL VELHO
R. DO
R. DA ALEGRIA A R R E I R A DE SÃO PEDRO Lodge CATHEDRAL R. DE SÉ Sé R. ESMERALDO RUA 31 DE JANEIRO TRAV. J. CAETANO TRAV. PIEMENTA
Britânico PEDRO The Old TAV I R A R. Q. BAIXO R . DIREITA Mercado dos
Blandy
RUA NOVA
Lavradores
Wine
RUA DO
R U A J OÃ O
RUA IVENS
RUA DE SANTA MARIA
QUARTER
R. MAJOR REIS GOMES
PRAÇA DO
Café Ritz
RUA DOM CARLOS I
Funchal
R. DA ALFÂNDEGA
AVE. ARRIAGA São Lourenço R. DAS MURÇAS COLOMBO AUTONOMIA C. DOM CARLOS I Teleférico
RUA DA PRAIA
RUA DR. BRITO CÂMARA
PRAÇA DA
Palácio de
R. DOS
Funchal–
C A LO U S T E G U L BE N K I A N
ARANHAS
AVE ZARCO
Monte
São Tiago
PRAÇA DO AVENIDA DO MAR E DAS COMUNIDADES MADEIRENSES Barreirinha Fortaleza de
PRAÇA DO
Praia de
INFANTE
200 m
POVO
A V E N I D A D O I N F A N T E FONTES ROTUNDA SÁ Funchal Cais da
R. DAS
( 220 yards)
Marina
Jardim de
Santa
CARNEIRO
Cidade
75 km
Jardim da Catarina Porto Santo
Quinta da EST R AD A DA P O N TINH A (46 miles)
Vigia A V E N I D A S Á C A R N E I R O Bahia de Funchal
Hotel Zone Museu CR7
1 km
(0.6 mile)
Design Centre 0 metres 250 N
Funchal Nini Andrade Silva P O R T O D O F U N C H A L
0 yards 250
352-353_EW_Portugal.indd 353 08/10/2018 16:15

The interior of the Convento
de Santa Clara, with its
beautiful azulejos




EXPERIENCE Madeira Full of the colour and
SHOP
Mercado dos
Lavradores

bustle of island life, the
4 "'
attracts flower-growers,
Jardim Botânico
Convento de 5 " Mercado dos Lavradores
Santa Clara basket-weavers,
⌂ Quinta do Bom Sucesso, farmers and fishermen
⌂ Calçada de Santa Clara Caminho do Meio § 291 211 from all over Madeira.
§ 291 742 602 # 10am– 200 # Daily Stall holders offer slices
noon, 3–5pm Mon– of mango to punters
Sat, 10am–noon Sun Established in 1960, the and marble tables are
Botanical Gardens display draped with great slabs
The Convento de Santa Clara plants from all over the world. of tuna and black-
was founded in 1496 by João Desert cacti, rainforest orchids skinned scabbard fish,
Gonçalves de Câmara, one of and South African proteas are with huge eyes and
Zarco’s grandsons. Zarco all represented here, as well as razor-sharp teeth.
himself is buried under the Madeiran dragon trees. There
high altar, and Martim Mendes are con trasting sections: formal ⌂ Largo dos Lavradores
§ 291 214 080 # Mon–
Vasconcelos, his son-in-law, areas of bedding plants, which Sat ¢ Public hols
has a tomb at the rear of the form a pink-and-yellow chess-
church. Precious 17th-century board, quiet carp ponds and
azulejo tiles cover the walls. wild wooded parts.

























The colourful, geometric
flowerbeds in the
Jardim Botânico
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Must See
6 "\-=
Museu CR7
⌂ Avenida Sá Carneiro,
Praça do Mar 27
# 10am–6pm Mon–Sat
∑ museucr7.com
You’ll be greeted at this
museum dedicated to
Madeira’s most famous son
by a bronze stature of the
footballer Christiano Ronaldo
(thankfully it’s a lot more
lifelike than the bust at
Funchal’s airport). Proclaimed
as the best soccer player of
the 21st century by some,
Ronaldo has impressed the
footballing world while
representing Sporting Lisbon,
Manchester United and Real
Madrid. Here, he is most
respected for his captaincy
of the Portuguese team.
The museum houses more Replica trophies
than 150 of his trophies, 7 "\-= on display in the
although many are replicas. Design Centre Nini Museu CR7
You can admire various Andrade Silva
signed shirts, read gushing ⌂ Estrada da Pontinha,
fan mail, and watch recordings Forte de Nossa Senhora programme of temporary
of some of his greatest goals da Conceição # 11am– exhibitions by other cutting-
on an interactive timeline of 7pm daily ∑ nini edge designers.
his career. Futuristic chairs and
andradesilva.com
atmospheric lighting enhance
Dedicated to one of the the Design Centre’s historic
world’s most renowned setting. Accessed via a lift, the
interior designers, this centre sits atop the Forte de
beautifuly curated space Nossa Senhora da Conceição –
show cases Nini Andrade a seafort which was once
Silva’s highly original work. home to Gonçalves Zarco.
The Funchal-born artist has The views across the harbour
been awarded many national from the fort, which was built
and international awards for on a rocky islet, are spec-
her designs and her hotel tacular. Take advantage of
interiors are often featured the vistas by heading up to
in glossy magazines. the DC Lounge Cafeteria or
As well as the permanent Restaurant DC Atelier for
exhibition of Silva’s work, the drinks or dinner once you’ve
centre also hosts a dynamic explored the exhibitions.

FUNCHAL’S LIDOS
There are plenty of swimming opportunities in Madeira’s
capital. Locals tend to swim in the small Barreirinha Lido,
next to the Fortaleza de São Tiago, or in the sea here. If
the thought of swimming in the Atlantic makes you
shiver, head to the municipal lido in the Hotel Zone,
which has an Olympic-sized sea water pool, as well as
slides and pools for kids. There are similar facilities to
be found at the Complexo Balnear da Ponta Grande.


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EXPERIENCE MORE



2 day on the corner of Caminho 3 "
do Monte, and they run (for a
Monte fee) to Livramento and on to Quinta do Palheiro
Funchal. From the church steps, Ferreiro
! B7 @ n Avenida Arriaga past the drivers’ corner, a left ! B7 ⌂ Sìtio do Balançal,
EXPERIENCE Madeira Monte has been a favourite Gardens” leads to the Monte 5:30pm daily ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec
16, Funchal; 291 211 902
turn signposted “Old Monte
Sâo Gonçalo @ # 9am–
destination for visitors since
Palace Tropical Gardens.
∑ palheirogardens.com
These gardens feature areas
the late 19th century, when a
A French landscape architect
devoted to Madeiran flora and
rack-and-pinion railway was
plants from Japan and China,
built to haul cruise liner
laid out the Quinta do Palheiro
passengers up the hillside
and orchids. The museum
from Funchal (now replaced
gardens – in the 18th century
exhibits precious stones and
by a teleférico, p352). Coming as well as azaleas, camellias Ferreiro – Madeira’s finest
for the wealthy Count of
down, they would take the minerals, as well as contem- Carvalhal, who built the
fam ous Monte Toboggan ride. porary Zimbabwean sculpture. elegant mansion (not open
Toboggan-drivers in straw To reach the gardens, you to visitors) and the Baroque
hats wait for passengers every pass the twin-towered church chapel in the garden.
of Nossa Senhora do Monte. The estate was acquired in
The Virgin of Monte is 1885 by the Anglo-Madeiran
GREAT VIEW Madeira’s patron saint and Blandy family, hence its
A Cable Car this church is the focal point English name: Blan dy’s
with a View of the pilgri mage that takes Gardens. New species were
Accessed from the place on 15 August (when introduced from South Africa,
top end of Funchal’s penitents climb the church’s Australia and China, resulting
Jardim Botânico, this steps on their knees). in a garden that combines
cable car passes high the clipped formality of late-
over the forested João Monte Palace Tropical 18th-century layout with the
Gomes river valley to Gardens profusion of English-style
hilltop Monte in just " # 9:30am–6pm daily; herbaceous borders, as well
10 minutes. museum: 10am–4:30pm as tropical and temperate
¢ 25 Dec ∑ montepalace.com climate varieties.















Viaduct that now forms
part of the luxuriant Monte
Palace Tropical Gardens





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The 15th-century
church on Machico’s
main square




STAY


Vila Teresinha
Some of the pleasant
rooms in this townhouse
have balconies with
great views over
the city.
! B7 ⌂ Rua das Cruzes
21, Funchal
∑ vilateresinha.com
¡¡¡
Quinta de Casa on the mid dle floor as (Chapel of the Miracles). The
Branca an advertisement of the present structure dates from
A Modernist boutique local wicker-weavers’ skills. 1815, but it stands on the site
hotel set in its own of Madeira’s first church. The
semitropical grounds, earlier church of 1420 was
with a fabulous health destroyed in a flood in 1803,
centre and restaurant. 5 but the 15th-century crucifix
! B7 ⌂ Rua da Casa Machico was found floating out at sea.
Branca 7, Funchal Machico celebrates the return
∑ quintacasabranca.com ! B7 @ n Avenida Arriaga of its cross with a procession
16, Funchal; 291 211 902
¡¡¡ on 8 October.
Legend has it that Machico was
named after Robert Machim,
a merchant from Bristol, who MONTE TOBOGGAN
eloped with the aristo cratic Originally developed in
4 Anne of Hertford and set the 1850s to transport
sail for Portugal. Caught in
Camacha a storm and shipwrecked on produce to market, the
toboggan now takes
Madeira, the two lovers died
! B7 @ n O Relógio, Largo tourists on a thrilling
Conselheiro Aires de from exposure. The rest of the 2-km (1-mile) descent
crew repaired the boat and
Ornelas 12; 291 922 777 from hilltop Monte to
sailed to Lisbon, where their Livramento. The wicker
Most of the wicker pro ducts story inspired Prince Henry baskets are steered by
sold in Funchal are made in the Navigator (p328) to send carreiros (toboggan-
and around Camacha, and the João Gonçalves Zarco in drivers) who control the
sole attraction in this otherwise search of this mysterious speedy descent with
sleepy village is a large shop wooded island. their rubber-soled boots.
packed with every thing wicker, Machico has been Madeira’s
from picture frames, bedsteads second most important town
and cradles to peacock-backed since the first settlements.
armchairs. It is often pos sible Funchal’s superior location
to see weavers at work in the and harbour ensured that it
factory, which is open from developed as the capital of
9am to 7pm daily, bending Madeira while Machico became
the pliant stripped willow a sleepy agricultural town.
round a frame to produce The Igreja Matriz on Largo
a linen basket or plant-pot do Município, dates from the
con tainer. A Noah’s Ark full 15th century. Across the river
of paired animals is displayed is the Capela dos Milagres
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EXPERIENCE Madeira

























once hunted whales now triangular houses, several
help marine biologists at the of which can be visited. The
Did You Know? Society for the Protection of surrounding hill sides are also
Sea Mammals understand
dotted with thatched byres.
whale migrations. The Parque Temático da
Villages on the north The modern Museu da Madeira has a maze, a water
coast of Madeira have Baleia (Whaling Museum) mill and exhibits on various
sea-water pools for illustrates the history of the aspects of Madeira.
cooling dips.
island’s whaling industry Santana valley is farmed
through hunting tools, for fruit and veg etables,
artifacts and vintage photo- and for osiers – the willow
graphs. There are also several branches that provide the
6 life-like models of whales. raw ma terial for the wicker-
workers of Camacha (p357).
Caniçal Museu da Baleia
! B7 @ n Avenida Arriaga " ⌂ Rua Garcia Moniz 1
16, Funchal; 291 211 902 # Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Easter THE TRIANGULAR
Sun, 24, 25 & 26 Dec HOUSES OF
Caniçal was once the centre ∑ museudabaleia.org SANTANA
of Madeira’s whaling industry: Built from two A-shaped
the whaling scenes for John timber frames, with a
Huston’s film version of Moby 7 thatched roof, these
Dick (1956) were shot here. triangular houses are
Whaling ceased in June 1981, Santana unique to Madeira.
and since then the waters ! B7 @ n Rua do Sacristão, The doors and windows
around Madeira have been Sítio do Serrado; 291 575 162 are brightly painted
declared a marine mammal and the interiors are
sanctuary – killing whales, Named after St Anne, mother surprisingly spacious.
dolphins and seals is now of the Virgin Mary, Santana
forbidden. Fishermen who has more than 100 thatched
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Whale models hanging
from the ceiling in the
Museu da Baleia, Caniçal EAT

and steep drops. Easier is the Quinta do Furao
20-minute walk on the left The terrace views here
sign posted to Balcões, which will take your breath
grants panoramic views across away. The menu has a
the Ametade river valley. good range of fish, meat
and vegetarian options.
! B7 ⌂ Achada do
Gramacho, near Santana
9 ∑ quintadofurao.com
Pico do Arieiro ¡¡¡
! B7 @ To Camacha,
then taxi Vila do Peixe
Overlooking the
From Funchal it is about a harbour, this
30-minute drive up the Pico contemporary space
do Arieiro, Madeira’s third- serves sublime grilled
highest mountain at 1,810 m fish from the daily catch.
(5,938 ft). The route leads ! A7 ⌂ Rua Dr Abel de
through steep hillsides cloaked Freitas, Câmara
in eucalyptus and bay laurel. de Lobos ∑ vilado
At the top, the spectacular peixe.com
view is of clouds in the valleys
and dramatic mountain ridges ¡¡¡
with knife-edge peaks. On
especially clear days you may
be able to see the neighbour-
ing island of Porto Santo.
Parque Temático is via a footpath that begins
da Madeira at the village of Achada do
" ⌂ Fonte da Pedra # Apr– 0 Teixeira and leads you on a
Oct: 10am–7pm daily (to 6pm 45-minute walk to the top.
Nov–Mar) ∑ parquetematico Pico Ruivo Alternatively, follow the
da madeira.pt challenging route from the
! B7 @ To Santana or Faial,
then taxi to Achada do top of Pico do Arieiro, which
involves nego tiating narrow
Teixeira, then walk
8 Madeira’s highest mountain at ridges with sheer drops on
either side. Awe-inspiring
Ribeiro Frio 1,861 m (6,105 ft), Pico Ruivo is mountain scenery and glorious
only accessible on foot. The views can be enjoyed all along
! B7 @ From Funchal
easiest way to scale its heights the 10-km (6-mile) walk.
Ribeiro Frio is a pretty spot
consisting of a couple of
restaurants, shops and a trout
farm, fed by the “cold stream”
after which the place is named.
Surrounding the trout farm
is an attractive garden full of
native trees and shrubs. This
is the starting point for two of
the island’s best levada walks
(p362). The 12-km (7-mile) path
signposted to Portela (on the
right past the restaurants)
passes through dramatic
mountain scenery but is best Walking the trail along
left to experienced walkers the red peaks at the
because of the long tunnels summit of Pico Ruivo
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EXPERIENCE Madeira








Steep road twisting
and turning on the way
up to the Paúl da Serra

11 village remains. Visitors first journey much easier and allow
local people to transport their
glimpse Curral das Freiras
Paúl da Serra from a viewpoint known as produce to the capital.
the Eira do Serrado, perched Television arrived in 1986.
! A7 @ To Canhas, then taxi
some 800 m (2,625 ft) above The sweet chestnuts that
The Paúl da Serra (literally the village. grow in profusion around the
meaning “high moorland”) The valley is surrounded on village are turned into sweet
is a large, boggy plateau, all sides by jagged mountain chestnut bread, best eaten
extending 17 km (11 miles) in peaks. Until 1959, the only still warm from the oven, and
length and 6 km (4 miles) in access to the village was by a licor de castanha, a chestnut-
width. The plain contrasts steep zigzagging path, but flavoured liqueur. Both can
dramatically with the jagged road tunnels now make the be sampled in local bars.
mountains that charac terize
the rest of Madeira.
Electricity for the north MADEIRA WINE
of the island is generated In the 16th century, ships stopping at Funchal would
here by wind turbines. Only take on barrels of local wine. This unforti fied Madeira
gorse and grass grow on often spoiled during the voyage, so shippers started
the thin soil, and the sponge- adding spirit to preserve it. The wine
like volcanic substrata act then seemed to improve after a long,
as a natural reser voir for hot voyage, and quality Madeira began
rainfall. Water filters through to be sent on round trips as an
the rock to emerge as springs alternative to maturing it in Funchal’s
which then feed the island’s lodges. This expensive method was
levada system (p362). replaced with the estufa system, still
very much in use today. Large
volumes of wine are heated
12 to between 30 and 50°C (86
and 122°F) for a period of three
Curral das Freiras months to a year. The effect is
to hurry up the ageing process:
! B7 @ n Avenida Arriga the best wines are “cooked” more
16, Funchal; 291 211 902
gently and slowly. The finest
Curral das Freiras means Madeirans are heated by the sun,
“Nuns’ Refuge” and the name maturing slowly in the attics of
refers to the nuns of the Santa the wine lodges. Most Madeira is
Clara convent who fled to this made from the Tinta Negra Mole
idyllic spot when pirates grape, often blended with either
attacked Funchal in 1566. The Sercia, Bual, Verdelho or Malmsey.
nuns have left now, but the
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coast. To see how the village ago during a volcanic
looked before development eruption. Visitors can walk
began, visit the Igreja Matriz, the 1-km (0.6-mile) trail of
which was built in the 17th excavated lava channels
cen tury, and look at the ceiling dripping with stalactites. By
paint ing of St Vincent bless ing the caves’ entrance is the
the town. He appears again Volcanism Centre. Inside, the
over the elabo rately carved centre presents audio-visual
main altar, blessing a ship. shows recreating the geo-
Around the church, cobbled logical evolution of the
traffic-free streets are lined caves, the eruption of a
with boutiques, bars and shops volcano and the birth of
selling sweet cakes, including the Madeira archipelago.
the popu lar Madeiran speci- Around 8 km (5 miles)
ality bolo de mel, the so-called northwest is Seixal. Despite
“honey cake” (actu ally made the storms that batter the
with molasses and fruit). coast, this village occupies a
Nearly 20 m (65 ft) below remarkably shel tered spot,
the ground is a network of where vineyards cling to the
caves, the Grutas e Centro do hillside terraces, producing
Vulcanismo de São Vicente, excellent wine.
which formed 850,000 years
Grutas e Centro do
13 The agricultural Vulcanismo de
São Vicente
São Vicente ⌂ Sitio do Pé do Passo
town of São Vincente
! A7 @ n Avenida Arriaga grew prosperous by # 10am–6pm daily
16, Funchal; 291 211 902 tempting travellers ∑ grutasecentrodo
vulcanismosaovicente.com
The agricultural town of São to break their jour­
Vincente grew pros perous by neys here as they
tempting travellers to break explore Madeira’s The beautifully
their jour neys here as they decorated interior of
explore Madeira’s northern northern coast. São Vicente’s church
































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14 churches. Despite resto ration
and reconstruction, several of
Porto Moniz its 16th-century features are
! A7 @ n Rua dos 1772 still intact. These include a
stone-carved font and an
Emigrantes, Vila do Porto
Moniz; 291 853 075 The date of the oldest ornate pulpit deco rated with
surviving bottle wild beasts such as wolves,
It is only a 75-km (47-mile) of Madeira. and the Flemish paint ing of
journey to this remote coastal
the Nativity in the side chapel.
EXPERIENCE Madeira of Madeira, from the bright and turned into rum hangs Etnográfico da Madeira has
The engaging Museu
village, on the north west tip
exhibits illustrating Madeiran
lights of Funchal.
Porto Moniz is surrounded
culture and society.
by a patchwork pattern of tiny
Museu Etnográfico
around the village from the
fields that are protected by
fences made from tree heather, factory. The Centro das Artes
a neces sary precaution against
⌂ Rua São Francisco 24
the heavy, salt-laden air that Casa das Mudas provides a da Madeira
more contemporary setting.
# 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri,
blows in off the Atlantic. Apart Picasso is among the artists 10am–12:30pm, 1:30–
from its pictur esque charm, whose work is exhibited here. 5:30pm Sat ¢ Public hols
the main attraction at Porto The Igreja Matriz looks ∑ cultura.madeira-edu.pt
Moniz is the series of natural modern but dates from 1430
rock pools on the fore shore, and contains a large ebony and
where you can swim in sun - silver tabernacle donated by 17
warmed water. Manuel I. There is also a fine
wooden ceiling. Câmara de Lobos
Calheta’s main attraction ! A7 @ n Avenida Arriaga
15 is its beach, which is Madeira’s 16, Funchal; 291 211 902
only one with golden sands. In
Calheta fact, the sand is imported from This pretty fishing village was
Africa and locals complain that painted by Winston Churchill,
! A7 @ n Avenida Arriaga
16, Funchal; 291 211 902 it is only borrowed, as winter who often visited Madeira in
storms often wash it back to the 1950s. Bars and restaurants
Calheta sits at the centre of the continent again. This yearly are named in his hon our and a
what sugar-cane produc tion loss doesn’t stop hundreds of plaque marks the spot on the
sur vives in Madeira. The smell families descending on this main road, east of the harbour,
of cane syrup being extracted sheltered beach.
Centro das Artes Casa
THE LEVADAS das Mudas
OF MADEIRA " ⌂ Estrada Simão
Madeira possesses Gonçalves da Câmara 37,
a unique irrigation Calheta # 10am– 5pm
system that enables Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
the plentiful rainfall of ∑ cultura.madeira-edu.pt
the north of the island
to be distrib uted to the
drier south. Rainfall is 16
stored in res ervoirs and
lakes, or channelled Ribeira Brava
from natural springs, ! A7 @ n Forte de São
and fed into the net- Bento; 291 951 675
work of levadas that
ring the island. These Ribeira Brava is a small resort
narrow channels carry town, situated on the sunny
water long distances south coast of Madeira. It has
to banana groves, vine- a pebble beach and a fishing
yards and market harbour, which is reached
gardens. There are through a tunnel to the east
1,500 km (932 miles) of the main town.
of canals, some dating Overlooking the principal São Bento church
back to the 1500s. square, São Bento is one of with a charming clock
the Madeira’s most unspoiled tower, Ribeira Brava
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where the great states man set
up his easels. This is one of
Madeira’s main centres for
catching scabbard fish (peixe
espada), which feature on
every local menu. Long lines
are baited with octopus to
catch these fish that dwell at
depths of bet ween 800 m
(2,600 ft) and 1,600 m
(5,250 ft). The fisher men live
in dwellings along the harbour
front, and their tiny chapel
dates from the 15th century,
but was rebuilt in 1723. The 18 Part of Porto Santo’s
chapel is dedi cated to St splendid 9-km (5.5-mile)
Nicholas, the pat ron saint of Porto Santo sandy beach
seafarers, and is decorated ! C6 ~ g n Avenida Dr
with scenes from the saint’s Manuel Gregório Pestana
life, as well as vivid portrayals Júnior; 291 985 244 and holiday resorts of villas
of drownings and shipwrecks. and apart ments. Snorkelling is
Porto Santo, an island 37 km good and bicycles can be hired.
(23 miles) north east of Madeira, The Casa de Colombo
HIDDEN GEM is smaller, flatter and drier than (House of Chris topher
Jardim do Mar its sister island. It pos sesses Columbus) is built from rough
Near Calheta, you’ll find some thing that Madeira lacks: stone, and contains exhibits
one of Madeira’s most a natural beach of golden sand, that tell Columbus’s story.
delightful villages. running the entire length of the
Sitting below cliffs, island’s south coast. There is a Casa de Colombo
Jardim do Mar befits its daily ferry bet ween Funchal ⌂ Travessa da Sacristia 2,
name "Garden by the and Porto Santo, which takes Vila Baleira § 291 983 405
Sea". Take a stroll down 2 hours and 30 min utes. There # Jul–Sep: 10am–6pm Mon–
its seafront promenade are also daily flights that take Sat, 10am–1pm Sun; Oct–Jun:
or through its twisting- just 15 minutes. 10am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm
turning alleyways. Porto Santo is a popular Mon, Wed–Sat, 10am–
holiday destination, with hotels 12:30pm Sun



































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Wild flora blooming near the coast of Santa Maria





























THE AZORES



Santa Maria was the first of the nine islands of
the Azores to be discovered by the Portuguese
(in 1427), beginning a wave of settlement in the
15th and 16th centuries by colonists from Portugal
and Flanders. The archipelago was named after the
buzzards the early explorers saw flying overhead
and mistook for goshawks (açores).
The Azores have profited from their far-flung
position in the Atlantic. Between 1580 and
1640, when Portugal came under Spanish rule,
the ports of Angra do Heroísmo on Terceira and
Ponta Delgada on São Miguel prospered from the
trade with the New World. In the 19th century,
the islands were a regular port of call for American
whaling ships, and during the 20th century
they benefited from their use as stations for
transatlantic cable companies, meteorological
observatories and military air bases.
Today, the majority of islanders are involved in
either dairy farming or fishing, and close links are
maintained with both mainland Portugal and the
sizeable communities of emigrant Azoreans in the
United States and Canada. Once a brave new world
of pioneer communities, the Azores are now an
autonomous region of Portugal and an exotic
corner of the European Union.
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CORVO CORVO
Corvo Corvo
Vila do Corvo
Vila do Corvo Graciosa Graciosa
Flores Flores
Terceira Terceira
Faial Pico Faial São Jorge São
São
São Jorge Pico
FLORES FLORES Miguel Miguel
Ponta Ponta
Delgada Delgada Santa Maria Santa Maria
Fajã Fajã Graciosa Santa Cruz Santa Cruz
Graciosa
Grande Grande Santa Cruz Santa Cruz da Graciosa da Graciosa
das Floresdas Flores
Praia de São Mateus
Fajãzinha Fajãzinha Praia de São Mateus
Lajes Lajes Luz Luz
GRACIOSA GRACIOSA
TERCEIRA TERCEIRA
Faial Faial
Biscoitos Biscoitos
Flores Flores
Serra de Santa Bárbara
Serra de Santa Bárbara
Lajes
1022m 1022m Algar do Algar do Lajes
Pico da VelhaPico da Velha Carvâo Carvâo
Praia da Vitória
495m 495m SÃO JORGE SÃO JORGE Praia da Vitória
Santa Bárbara
Santa Bárbara
Velas Velas
FAIAL FAIAL Cedros São Jorge São Jorge Fajã dos Cubres
Fajã dos Cubres
Cedros
Angra do Heroísmo
Manadas Manadas São Mateus São Mateus Angra do Heroísmo
Cabeço GordoCabeço Gordo Calheta Calheta
1045m 1045m Pico Pico
Capelo Capelo Lajido Lajido
Horta Horta
MadalenaMadalena São Roque do Pico Santo Santo Topo
Topo
São Roque do Pico
Horta Horta Antão Antão
Pico Alto Pico Alto
Candelária Candelária 2350m 2350m
Piedade Piedade São Miguel São Miguel
São Mateus São Mateus
Terceira Terceira
PICO PICO Lajes do Pico
Lajes do Pico
Sete Cidades
Sete Cidades Porto Porto
Ribeira
Capelas Capelas Ribeira Nordeste Nordeste
Formoso Formoso
Grande Grande
Candelária Candelária
Furnas Furnas Ponta da Ponta da
Madrugada Madrugada
Joã Paula II Joã Paula II Lagoa Lagoa
Ponta Ponta Povoação Povoação
Delgada Delgada Vila Franca Vila Franca
do Campodo Campo
SÃO MIGUEL
SÃO MIGUEL
THE AZORES
Must See
1 São Miguel
Experience More
2 Santa Maria
3 Terceira
4 São Jorge
5 Graciosa SANTA MARIAA MARIA
SANT
6 Pico
7 Faial Anjos Anjos Santo Santo
Espírito Espírito
8 Flores Santa Maria Santa Maria
20
9 Corvo 0 kilometres 0 kilometres 20 N N Vila do Porto
Vila do Porto
0 miles 0 miles 20 20
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CORVO CORVO
Corvo Corvo
Vila do Corvo Graciosa Graciosa
Vila do Corvo
Flores Flores
Terceira Terceira
São
Faial Pico Faial São Jorge São
São Jorge Pico
FLORES FLORES Miguel Miguel
Ponta Ponta
Delgada Delgada Santa Maria Santa Maria
Fajã Fajã Graciosa Santa Cruz Santa Cruz
Graciosa
Grande Grande Santa Cruz Santa Cruz da Graciosa da Graciosa
das Floresdas Flores
Praia de São Mateus
Fajãzinha Fajãzinha Praia de São Mateus
Lajes Lajes Luz Luz
GRACIOSA GRACIOSA
TERCEIRA TERCEIRA
Faial Faial
Biscoitos Biscoitos
Flores Flores
Serra de Santa Bárbara
Serra de Santa Bárbara
Lajes
1022m 1022m Algar do Algar do Lajes
Pico da VelhaPico da Velha Carvâo Carvâo
Praia da Vitória
495m 495m SÃO JORGE SÃO JORGE Praia da Vitória
Santa Bárbara
Santa Bárbara
Velas Velas
FAIAL FAIAL Cedros São Jorge São Jorge Fajã dos Cubres
Fajã dos Cubres
Cedros
Angra do Heroísmo
Manadas Manadas São Mateus São Mateus Angra do Heroísmo
Cabeço GordoCabeço Gordo Calheta Calheta
1045m 1045m Pico Pico
Capelo Capelo Lajido Lajido
Horta Horta
MadalenaMadalena São Roque do Pico Santo Santo Topo
Topo
São Roque do Pico
Horta Horta Antão Antão
Pico Alto Pico Alto
Candelária Candelária 2350m 2350m
Piedade Piedade São Miguel São Miguel
São Mateus São Mateus
Terceira Terceira
PICO PICO Lajes do Pico
Lajes do Pico
Sete Cidades Porto Porto
Sete Cidades
Ribeira
Capelas Capelas Ribeira Nordeste Nordeste
Formoso Formoso
Grande Grande
Candelária Candelária
Furnas Furnas Ponta da Ponta da
Madrugada Madrugada
Joã Paula II Joã Paula II Lagoa Lagoa
Ponta Ponta Povoação Povoação
Delgada Delgada Vila Franca Vila Franca
do Campodo Campo
SÃO MIGUEL
SÃO MIGUEL
SANTA MARIAA MARIA
SANT
Anjos Anjos Santo Santo
Espírito Espírito
Santa Maria Santa Maria
0 kilometres 0 kilometres 20 N N Vila do Porto
20
Vila do Porto
0 miles 0 miles 20 20
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EXPERIENCE The Azores
























The turquoise water
of the majestic Lagoa
das Sete Cidades

1
SÃO MIGUEL


! C5 k 3 km (2 miles) W of Ponta Delgada g Ponta Delgada @ Avenida
Infante Dom Henrique, Ponta Delgada n Avenida Infante Dom Henrique,
Ponta Delgada; visitazores.com
With its historic maritime capital, rich green fields and dramatic
volcanic scenery, this ilha verde (green island) provides a rewarding
introduction to the Azores.


The largest and most populated of the Northwest of Ponta Delgada, the west of the
archipelago’s nine islands, São Miguel is 65 km island is punctured by a giant volcanic crater,
(40 miles) long. The capital, Ponta Delgada, is a Lagoa das Sete Cidades, with a 12-km (7-mile)
good base from which to make day tours of circumference. In places, its sheer walls drop
São Miguel’s rugged coast or visit the volcanic like green curtains for 300 m (1,000 ft).
crater lakes and steaming thermal springs in To the city’s east, the Lagoa do Fogo, “Lake
the interior of the island. Lined with many of Fire”, was formed in the island’s central
impressive churches, convents and trim white moun tains by a volcanic eruption in 1563. On
houses, the cobbled streets of the Azorean sunny days its remote sandy beach is a
capital recall the wealthy days when the port tranquil picnic spot. On the island’s east coast,
was a crucial staging post between Europe the Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada is a
and the New World. popular spot for watching the sunrise.
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Must See






















GREAT VIEW
Lake Vistas
When not obscured by
cloud, the Lagoa das
Sete Cidades is best
seen from the Vista
do Rei. After admiring
the turquoise crater
from this view point,
follow the 12-km (7-mile)
trail around its rim.






1427


São Miguel is
believed to have been
discovered by Gonçalo
Velho Cabral.


1 Porto Formoso, on the north
coast of the island, is renowned 1
for its tea plantations, which
tumble down to the sea.
2 Scattered around the town
of Furnas are the Caldeiras das
Furnas. These hot bubbling
springs provide the therapeutic
mud and mineral water used
for the town’s spa treatments.
3 In front of the 17th-century
façade of Ponta Delgada’s
town hall, you’ll find a statue
of St Michael the Archangel,
the island’s patron saint. 2 3

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EXPERIENCE MORE



2 green and hilly east side of
the island. Towards the east
Santa Maria coast, the village of Santo 1983
Espírito is worth visiting for
! C6 ~ 3 km (2 miles) NW of the white Baroque façade of Angra do Heroísmo is
EXPERIENCE The Azores Vila do Porto n Aeroporto black lava decor ation, while Heritage Site
Vila do Porto g Vila do Porto
its church of Nossa Senhora
@ Rua Dr Luís Bettencourt,
da Purificação, adorned with
classified as a World
de Santa Maria, Vila do
by UNESCO.
the vine­covered half­crater
Porto; 296 886 355
of Baía de São Lourenço,
Santa Maria lies 55 km
north of here, is a delightful
summer beach resort.
(34 miles) south of São Miguel.
Though only 17 km (11 miles)
long, it has great scenic variety
and boasts sandy beaches, 3 For over three centuries, the
town of Angra do Heroísmo
tranquil countryside and the was a stopover point on the
warmest climate in the Azores. Terceira routes between Europe,
The island’s capital, Vila do ! B5 k 3 km (2 miles) NW of America and Africa, and in the
Porto, is on the south coast and Praia da Vitória g Angra do early 17th century its harbour
consists of a long main street Heroísmo, Praia da Vitória glittered with Spanish fleets
that runs down to a small @ Avenida 1° de Maio, Angra returning laden with treasure
harbour. The west of the island do Heroísmo n Rua Direita from the Americas. The city’s
is a dry, flat plateau with a vast 70–74 Angra do Heroísmo, wealthy past is reflected in
airstrip built in World War II. To 295 404 810; Praia da the pretty streets lined with
the north lies the fishing town Vitória Aerogare Civil das balconied houses.
of Anjos, where a statue com­ Lajes, 295 513 140 The most spectacular view
memorates a visit made by of the harbour is from Monte
Christopher Columbus in 1493 Terceira is the most developed Brasil, a volcanic crater on the
on his return from dis covering of the five central islands western side of the bay. Beside
the New World. Next to it, the and is known for the brightly this popular pic nic spot stands
small, white washed chapel of painted chapels (impérios) the fort, Fortaleza de São João
Nossa Senhora dos Anjos is devoted to the cult of the Holy Baptista, built during Spain’s
the oldest in the Azores. Spirit. The large, oval­shaped annexation of Portugal (p44)
The highest point of Santa island’s interior mainly as a treasure store, and still
Maria is the central Pico Alto, consists of gentle green in military use. A second
590 m (1,935 ft) above sea pastureland and laurel forest, rewarding viewpoint is from
level, which on a clear day while the coast has barren the Alto da Memória at the
offers fine views over the areas of black lava. south end of Rua São João de
Deus, from where the twin
towers of the 16th­century Sé
are easily seen. A path leads
down into the Jardim Duque
da Terceira, the city’s restful
public gardens. These once
formed part of the 15th­
century Con vento de São
Francisco, which now houses
the Museu de Angra do
Heroísmo. The museum’s
exhibits reflect the history
of the Azores and the city,
and include armour, maps,
paintings and sculptures.
Pretty windmill standing
on the outskirts of Vila do
Porto, Santa Maria
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Away from the capital, the Looking over
island’s centre bears witness Angra do Heroísmo,
to its volcanic origins: the Terceira’s capital
Caldeira de Guilherme Moniz
is an eroded crater 3 km DRINK
(2 miles) wide and one of the stone-walled pens built to
largest in the Azores. Nearby, shelter vines. The Museu do Arco 8
the Algar do Carvão is a Vinho explains the simple Just a few minutes out
dramatic volcanic blast-hole, production methods used of town, this art gallery,
thick with dripping moss, to produce the rich Verdelho café and bar is located
where visitors can tour a huge wine that was once exported in an old warehouse,
sub ter ranean cave. West of to the Russian court, and and offers great
here, the Furnas do Enxofre are offers the chance to taste cocktails and the
hot steaming fumaroles where and purchase today’s vintages. occasional live act.
the sul phur vapours crystallize
! C5 ⌂ Abel Fein
into coloured formations. Museu de Angra do Coutino, Ponta Delgada,
Two viewpoints overlooking Heroísmo São Miguel ¢ Sun–Thu
the island can be reached by ⌂ Ladeira de São Francisco ∑ arco8.blogspot.co.uk
car: in the west, a road bor- § 295 240 800 # Apr–Sep:
dered with blue hydrangeas 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun; Oct–
winds up through the Serra de Mar: 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun Cella Bar
Santa Bárbara to a vast lonely ¢ Public hols Chic wine bar and
crater, while the eastern Serra restaurant that has
do Cume overlooks the airport Algar do Carvão won awards for its
and Praia da Vitória. This " ⌂ Off R5-2 § 295 212 992 striking curved wooden
port has a large bay with a # Mar–May: 2:30–5:15pm extension, with
sandy beach. On the north daily; Jun–Oct: 2–6pm daily; porthole windows and
a terrace offering
coast, Biscoitos (which means Oct–Mar: 2:30–5:15pm Tue, awesome views of
“biscuits”) takes its name Wed, Fri, Sat ¢ 1 Jan, 5 Mar, the coast.
from the rubble of biscuit-like 1 & 25 Dec
lava spread along the shore. ! B5 ⌂ Lugar da Barca,
Exhilarating swim ming pools Museu do Vinho Madalena, Pico
§ 292 623 654
have been created among the ⌂ Canada do Caldeiro 3
rocks. The area is also known § 965 667 324 # May–Sep:
for its wine, and the land is 10–11am, 1–5:30pm Tue–Sun;
covered in a chess board of Oct–Apr: 1:30–4pm Tue–Sat
371
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4 press, agricultural utensils and
religious sculptures. West of
São Jorge Calheta, in the pretty parish
of Manadas, the 18th-century
! B5 ~ 7 km (4 miles) E of church of Santa Bárbara has
Velas g Velas & Calheta an atmospheric carved and
n Rua Conselheiro Dr José
Pereira 1, Velas; 295 412 440 painted interior.
Museu Francisco
São Jorge is a mountainous
EXPERIENCE The Azores (34 miles) but is only 8 km " ⌂ Rua José Azevedo da through Pico’s dramatic,
de Lacerda
island that stretches for 55 km
Cunha, Calheta § 295 416
(5 miles) wide. On its north
323 # Apr–Sep: 10am–
coast, sheer cliffs drop to the
5:30pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar:
sea. Over the centuries these
Sunrise over a road
9:30pm–5pm Tue–Sun
cliffs have collapsed in places,
crea ting tongues of land known
¢ Public hols
as fajãs – UNESCO-recognized
as Biosphere Reserves.
Today, many islanders on 5 rugged countryside
São Jorge are engaged in the quayside backed by rows of
pro duction of a cured cheese, Graciosa stark, two-storey, white-
queijo de São Jorge. The pace ! B5 ~ 2 km (1 mile) W of washed houses with wrought-
of life is leisurely, and most Santa Cruz da Graciosa iron balconies and oval
visitors come to walk along g Praia de São Mateus windows. The Museu da
the paths that climb between n Rua Castilho 7, Santa Graciosa recalls life on this
the fajãs. The most popular Cruz; 295 730 246 sleepy island with a homely
route is from Topo, on the miscellany of toys, sea chests,
east coast of the island, Graciosa Island is one of the kitchen ware, wine presses,
10 km (6 miles) down to most peaceful places in the furniture and memen tos sent
Fajã dos Cubres. Azores, classified by UNESCO back by emigrants to North
Most of the settlements lie as a biosphere reserve. Only America. A building next door
along the gentler south coast, 12.5 km (8 miles) long, most of houses a whaling boat.
including the capital, Velas, its low-lying land is given over The picturesque Monte da
and Calheta, where the Museu to farms and vineyards where Ajuda that rises behind the
Francisco de Lacerda displays ox-drawn carts and ploughs town is capped by a 16th-
objects of local history such as are still in use. The capital, century fortified chapel, Nossa
the ornate breads baked for Santa Cruz da Graciosa, on Senhora da Ajuda, decorated
the Holy Spirit festival, a honey the north coast, has a simple with 18th-century tiles.
In the southeast lies the
Furna do Enxofre, where
visitors can descend flights
of steps into the bowels of a
volcanic crater. At the bottom
is a huge cave with a deep,
sulphurous lake and peep-
holes where bub bling brews
of evil grey liquid can be spied
beneath the rocks.
Above the cave, at Furna
Maria Encantada, a natural
tunnel leads to the edge of
the crater, offering stun ning
views over the island. Treat-
ments using the island’s geo-
thermal waters are available
at the resort of Carapacho, at
the foot of the volcano.
A pretty street leading
to the church in Velas,
on the island of São Jorge
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Museu da Graciosa It is a strenuous climb, best
" ⌂ Largo Conde de Simas done along side a guide, and
17, Santa Cruz § 295 712 429 advance permission is needed.
# Apr–Sep: 10am–5:30pm Another draw in summer is EAT
Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 9:30pm– whale­watching. From Lajes
5pm Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols do Pico, groups are taken out
in boats for 3­hour trips. The Alcides
Furna do Enxofre history of Azorean whaling is Stylish but
" ⌂ 2 km (1 mile) E of Luz, recalled at the Museu dos unpretentious
follow signs to Caldeira Baleeiros, also in Lajes. The restaurant renowned
# Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; whales were processed at a for its good-value steaks.
Nov–Mar: 10pm–5pm Tue–Fri, vast factory (closed down in ! C5 ⌂ Rua Hintze
2–5:30pm Sat 1984) on the north side of the Ribeiro 67–77, Ponte
island that now houses the Delgada, São Miguel
Museu da Indústria Baleeira. § 296 629 884
6 Minor eruptions have ¡¡¡
covered parts of the island’s
Pico landscape with black mole­
hills of lava that the islanders O Miroma
! B5 ~ 8 km (5 miles) E of Try the house
Madalena g Madalena christened mistérios (mysteries). speciality, cozido das
The black lava has been used
@ Avenida Machado Serpa, to build houses and grids of Furnas (p22) for a
Madalena n Gare Marítima, quintessential Azorean
Madalena; 292 623 524 stone walls that en close fields experience.
or shelter vines. In some places,
The majesty of Pico, the the eroded lava has formed ! C5 ⌂ Rua Dr Frederico
highest mountain in Portugal, curious arches in the sea. Moniz Pereira 15,
becomes apparent when it is The island’s vineyards are a Furnas, São Miguel
seen from the neighbouring UNESCO World Heritage Site. § 296 584 422
cen tral islands. Only then A visitor’s cen tre at Lajido ¡¡¡
does one real ize how grace­ explains Pico’s viniculture,
fully this volcanic peak soars featuring the Verdelho wine. Sal & Pico
out of the Atlantic, shooting Found inside the
up 2,350 m (7,700 ft) to form Museu dos Baleeiros 16th-century Forte da
the summit of the longest " ⌂ Rua dos Baleeiros 13, Horta, this pleasant
mountain range in the world, Lajes § 292 679 340 # Apr– restaurant specializes
the Mid­Atlantic Ridge. Sep: 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun; in regional cuisine.
The island’s largest town, Oct–Mar: 9:30am–5pm
Madalena, is a relaxed port that ! B5 ⌂ Rua Vasco da
lies opposite Faial’s capital, Museu da Indústria Gama, Horta, Faial
∑ pousadas.pt
Horta. A regular ferry service Baleeira
crosses the 8 km (5 miles) " ⌂ Rua do Poço, São Roque ¡¡¡
between the two islands. do Pico § 292 642 096 # Apr–
Many people come to Pico Sep: 10am–5:30pm daily; Oct–
to climb its eponymous peak. Mar: 9:30am–5pm daily
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EXPERIENCE The Azores











Walkway covered with
paintings at Horta
marina, Faial island

7 planes over the centuries. Centro de Interpretação do
Today, visiting crews crossing
Vulcão dos Capelinhos, where
Faial between the Caribbean and multimedia displays trace the
Mediterranean paint a calling area’s geo logical activity.
! B5 ~ 10 km (6 miles) SW
of Horta g Horta @ Rua card on the quayside and Museu de Scrimshaw
Vasco da Gama, Horta cele brate their safe passage
n Rua Vasco da Gama, in Peter’s Café Sport, which " ⌂ Peter’s Café Sport, Rua
José Azevedo 9, Horta § 292
overlooks the harbour. In the
Horta; 292 292 237
upstairs rooms of the café, the 292 327 # Mon–Sat
Faial was settled by Flemish Museu de Scrimshaw exhibits
farmers in the 15th century engraved whales’ bones and Museu da Horta
and prospered with the devel­ teeth dating back to 1884. In " ⌂ Largo Duque D’Ávila e
opment of Horta harbour as a the Museu da Horta, displays Bolama § 292 392 784
stopover for ships and – more of antique furniture, portraits, # Apr–Sep: 10am–5:30pm
recently – flying boats crossing nautical memorabilia and Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–
the Atlantic. Today it is a fer tile nostalgic photographs of the 5pm Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
island with a mild climate. It is island’s port are upstaged by
known around the world as a miniature sculp tures of liners Centro de Interpretação
yachting destin ation, and for and scenes of daily life, pains­ do Vulcão dos Capelinhos
the endless rows of colourful takingly carved from the ' ⌂ Farol dos Capelinhos
hydrangeas that bloom in white pith of fig trees. § 292 200 470 # Apr–Oct:
June and July. Two viewpoints overlook 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar:
Stretching around a wide Horta: to its south rises the 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 2–5:30pm
bay, Faial’s capital Horta has volcanic peak of Monte da Sat & Sun
been a con venient anchorage Guia, while the northern
for caravels, clippers and sea Mira douro da Espalamaca is
guarded by a huge statue of 8
Nossa Senhora da Conceição.
Faial’s other spectacular Flores
Did You Know? natural sight is the Vulcão dos ! A5 ~ 1km (half a mile)
Capelinhos in the far west of N of Santa Cruz g Lajes
Hydrangeas have blue the island. A volcano erupted @ Centro de Saúde, Santa
flowers when grown in here in 1957–8, smothering Cruz n Rua Dr Armas da
acidic soil, but produce a lighthouse that can now be Silveira 1, Santa Cruz; 292
pink blooms in alkaline seen buried in ash. Around it 592 369
conditions. lies a scorched and barren
landscape. The story of the The island of “Flowers” is a
eruption is told in the nearby roman tic outpost that was not
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fishing rods and a guitar Museu das Flores
made from whale bone. " ⌂ Edificio do Convento de
STAY The deep, verdant valleys of São Boaventura § 292 592
the south are punctuated with
159 # 10am–5:30pm Tue–
Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm
drama tic peaks, volcanic crater
lakes and caves. The tranquil Tue–Fri & Sun ¢ Public hols
Aldeia da Fonte Lagoa Funda, 25 km (16 miles)
An eco-friendly resort, southwest of Santa Cruz, is a
with six rustic stone lake at the base of a moun tain.
houses set in lush The winding road continues 9
gardens, and its own northwards over the moun­ Corvo
sea pools. tains and, as it descends
! B5 ⌂ Caminho towards the west coast, there ! A5 ~ g Vila do Corvo
de Baixo 2, Lajes do Pico, are stunning views of the @ Rua da Matriz, Vila do
Pico ∑ aldeia green valley and village of Corvo n Câmara Munici pal,
dafonte.com Rua J da Bola, Vila do Corvo;
Fajãzinha. The resort of Fajã
¡¡¡ Grande, ringed by cliffs, is a 292 590 200
popular base for walkers and Corvo lies 24 km (15 miles)
Quinta das impressive water falls plunge north east of Flores. The
Buganvilias into the sea from the high smallest island in the Azores,
This family-run estate cliffs. A short walk north from it has just one settle ment,
offers charming rooms the town is the Cascata da Vila do Corvo, and is bliss fully
and apartments. Check Ribeira Grande, a towering unde vel oped, with only one
out the bar in the old jet of water that divides into hotel and a few restaurants.
mill house. smaller waterfalls before The entire island is the blown
! B5 ⌂ Castelo Branco, collecting in a still pool. top of a marine volcano. A
Horta, Faial green crater, the Lagoa do
∑ quintadas Museu da Fábrica da Caldeirão, squats at its
buganvilias.com Baleia do Boqueirão northern end. Its rim can be
" ⌂ Rua do Boqueirão, Santa reached by road, after which
¡¡¡
Cruz § 292 542 932 # Jun– there is a steep descent down
Sep: 9am–5:30pm Mon–Fri, to the crater floor 300 m
Terra Nostra Garden 2–5:30pm Sat, Sun; Oct–May: (984 ft) below. In its centre,
Hotel 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30 Mon– the crater is dotted with
This plush hotel has Art Fri, 2–5:30pm Sun serene lakes and islands.
Deco interiors, a pool
and a wellness centre.
! C5 ⌂ Rua Padre José
Jacinto Botelho, Furnas,
São Miguel
∑ bensaudehotels.com
¡¡¡



per manently set tled until the
16th century. This western­
most island of the Azores is
a UNESCO listed biosphere
reserve, where an abundance
of flowers grow in its ravines.
The capital, Santa Cruz,
is enlivened by the Museu
da Fábrica da Baleia do
Boquerirão, a museum dedi­
cated to the island’s whaling
heri tage, and the Museu das
Flores, housed in a former
Franciscan convent. Its dis­
plays include shipwreck finds, Lagoa Funda with
Azorean pottery, furniture and hydrangeas growing in
agricultural tools, as well as the foreground, Flores
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NEED TO KNOW



















































Tram 28 trundling through Lisbon
















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Before You Go .............................................378

Getting Around .......................................... 380

Practical Information ...............................384






























































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BEFORE
YOU GO





NEED TO KNOW Before You Go all eventualities by considering the following points before you travel.
Forward planning is essential to any successful trip. Be prepared for


Passports and Visas
AT A GLANCE
EU nationals may visit for an unlimited period,
CURRENCY
registering with local authorities after three
Euro (EUR)
months. Citizens of the US, Canada, Australia
and New Zealand can reside without a visa for
up to 90 days. For those arriving from other
countries, check with your local Portuguese
embassy or on the Camara Municipal website.
AVERAGE DAILY SPEND Camara Municipal
∑ cm-lisboa.pt/en
Travel Safety Advice
SAVE SPEND SPLURGE
€35 €70 €150+ Visitors can get up-to-date travel safety
information from the UK Foreign and
Commonwealth Office, the US State
Department and the Australian Department
of Foreign Affairs and Trade.
AUS
BOTTLED COFFEE BEER DINNER
WATER FOR TWO ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
€0.80 €1 €3 €45 UK
∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice
US
ESSENTIAL PHRASES ∑ travel.state.gov
Hello Olá Customs Information
An individual is permitted to carry the following
Goodbye Adeus within the EU for personal use:
Tobacco products 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos,
Please Por favor 200 cigars or 1 kg of smoking tobacco.
Alcohol 10 litres of alcoholic beverages above
Thank you Obrigado/Obrigada 22 per cent strength, 20 litres of alcoholic
beverages below 22 per cent strength,
Do you speak Fala inglês? 90 litres of wine (60 litres of which can be
English? sparkling wine) and 110 litres of beer.
I don’t Cash If you plan to enter or leave the EU with
understand Não compreendo €10,000 or more in cash (or the equivalent in
other currencies) you must declare it to the
customs authorities.
ELECTRICITY
SUPPLY Insurance
Power sockets are
type F, fitting a two- It is wise to take out an insurance policy covering
prong, round-pin plug. theft, loss of belongings, medical problems,
Standard voltage is cancellations and delays. EU citizens are eligible
220–240v. for free emergency medical care in Portugal

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provided they have a valid EHIC (European Tourism For All offer specialist holiday packages,
Health Insurance Card). while Accessible Portugal gives comprehensive
EHIC advice on travelling with limited mobility.
∑ gov.uk/european-health-insurance-card Accessible Portugal
∑ accessibleportugal.com
Vaccinations Tourism For All
∑ tourism-for-all.com
No inoculations are necessary for Portugal.
Language
Money
English is widely spoken in Portugal’s cities, but
Most urban establishments accept major credit, the same cannot always be said for rural areas.
debit and prepaid currency cards. Contactless While written Portuguese is fairly similar to
payments are gradually becoming more com- Spanish, the idiosyncratic pronun ciation of
mon in cities, but it’s always a good idea to carry spoken Portuguese can demand several
cash for smaller items like coffee and pasteis de attempts to correctly enunciate even simple
nata, or when visiting markets. ATMs are widely phrases. Attempting to communicate solely in
available across the city. Spanish may well cause offence.
Booking Accommodation Closures
Portugal offers a diverse range of Lunchtime Some museums and public
accommodation, varying from boutique buildings are closed from noon until 2pm.
hotels and villas to guesthouses, hostels and Monday State-run museums, public buildings
campsites. A useful list of accommodation can and monuments are closed all day.
be found on the Visit Portugal website. Sunday Churches and cathedrals are closed to
During the summer months, lodgings are tourists during Mass. Some public transport
snapped up fast and prices become inflated, so runs less frequently.
book in advance. Lisbon and Porto are popular Public holidays Most museums, public
short city-break destinations, and it can also be buildings and many shops are closed early
difficult to find a last-minute weekend booking or for the day.
during the low season (Dec–Mar). In some cities,
as well as the Algarve, you will be charged a PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
tourist tax on top of the price for the room
(€1–2 per person each night). Hotels are 1 Jan
required by law to share details of foreign New Year’s Day
visitors with local authorities. Mar/Apr Good Friday
Visit Portugal Mar/Apr Easter Sunday
∑ visitportugal.com 25 Apr Freedom Day
1 May Labour Day
Travellers with Specific Needs 10 Jun Portugal Day
13 Jun Feast of St Anthony (Lisbon)
The steep, winding streets in Portugal’s 20 Jun Corpus Christi
historic towns and cities can be challenging 24 Jun Feast of St John the Baptist
for wheelchair-users and those with prams. (Porto)
Facilities in Portugal have improved greatly, with 15 Aug Assumption Day
wheel chairs, adapted toilets and reserved car 5 Oct Republic Day
parking available at airports and main stations. 1 Nov All Saints’ Day
Ramps and lifts are installed in many public 1 Dec Restoration of Independence
places and some buses (marked with a blue- 8 Dec Immaculate Conception Day
and-white logo at the front) accommodate 25 Dec Christmas Day
wheelchair users. Tour companies such as

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GETTING
AROUND





NEED TO KNOW Getting Around discover how best to reach your destination and travel like a pro.
Whether you are visiting for a short city break or rural country retreat,


Arriving by Air
AT A GLANCE
Lisbon, Porto and Faro are the main airports
PUBLIC TRANSPORT COSTS
for long-haul flights into Portugal, while
European budget airlines fly to cities across
LISBON
€6.30
These European companies also offer very
good rates on regular internal flights.
For information on getting to and from
24-hr ticket Portugal year round at very reasonable prices.
Metro, bus, tram Portugal’s main airports, see the table opposite.
PORTO Driving
€4.15 Although Portuguese roads are rightly renowned
as accident-prone, with the country suffering
24-hr ticket (zone 2) the highest road fatality rate in Europe in 2000,
Metro, bus, tram
in 2015 the World Economic Forum pronounced
COIMBRA the road network itself to be the best in the
continent. A comprehensive motorway system
€3.50 allows for speedy travel between major cities,
although some less-travelled rural roads may be
Day ticket in need of repair. Make sure you are familiar with
Bus the rules of the road and carry all necessary
documentation with you at all times.
TOP TIP
Always try to buy a travel pass, rather than Driving to Portugal
paying for individual journeys. The quickest route into the country is to cross
the French–Spanish border at Irun, then take
the E80 motorway to Vilar Formosa on the
SPEED LIMIT Portuguese border. Southern Spain connects
DUAL to the Algarve’s main artery, the A22, which
MOTORWAY CARRIAGEWAY intersects the E1 (Portugal’s north–south
lifeline) near Albufeira.
120 100 Most of the main motorways in Portugal
are toll roads, paid electronically. The easiest
km/h km/h system to use is EasyToll, which matches
(75 mph) (60 mph) your credit card to your licence plate and
automatically deducts the necessary funds.
Payments and details can be managed on
their website.
SECONDARY URBAN
ROAD AREAS If you bring your own foreign-registered car,
you must carry a valid driver’s licence, proof of
90 50 ownership, insurance and address, as well as an
up-to-date MOT certificate. After 183 days, the
km/h km/h car must either be registered in Portugal or
(55 mph) (30 mph) taken to another country.
EasyToll
∑ portugaltolls.com

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GETTING TO AND FROM THE AIRPORT

Airport Distance to city Taxi fare Public transport Journey time
Faro (Algarve) 4 km (2.5 miles) €20 Bus 20 mins
Lisbon (Humberto Delgado) 7 km (4 miles) €20 Metro 25 mins
Madeira (Funchal) 13 km (8 miles) €23 Bus 45 mins
Porto (Francisco Sá Carneiro) 11 km (7 miles) €25 Metro 35 mins
Ponta Delgada (João Paulo II) 2 km (1 mile) €10 Bus 10 mins
CAR JOURNEY PLANNER

Plotting the main driving
routes according to
journey time, this map is a
handy reference for Braga
travelling between
Portugal’s main cities by Porto
car. The times given reflect
the fastest and most direct
routes available. Tolls
apply on most motorways.
Coimbra





Faro to Albufeira 45 mins
Faro to Évora 2.5 hrs Lisbon
Faro to Lagos 1 hr Évora
Faro to Lisbon 2.75 hrs
Lisbon to Coimbra 2 hrs
Lisbon to Évora 1.5 hrs
Lisbon to Lagos 2.75 hrs
Porto to Braga 45 mins Albufeira
Lagos Direct car
Porto to Lisbon 3 hrs Faro routes


Car Rental some companies offer special off-peak and
Car hire agencies can be found in main towns weekend deals. As Portuguese drivers are
and at airports. To rent a car in Portugal you infamously erratic, it is sensible to arrange third-
must be over 18 and have held a valid driver’s party insurance beforehand or take the pricier
licence for at least one year, although those “no excess” insurance deals offered upon pick-
under 25 usually need to pay a surcharge. up. Most car hire companies give the option to
Prices drop considerably in the low season and pay all road toll fees upon the vehicle’s return.

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Rules of the Road served by rail, although the more remote lines
When using a car in Portugal, drive on the right have sadly been made obsolete by new road
and use the left lane only for passing other links. CP runs two types of train service, with
vehicles. Seat belts are required for all routes spanning from north of Braga to Faro,
passengers and heavy fines are incurred for some of which take in Lisbon, Coimbra and
using a mobile phone while driving. Drivers are Porto. The new Alfa Pendular trains are faster,
required to stop at pedestrian crossings. The more comfortable and have free Wi-Fi, while
blood-alcohol concentration (BAC) limit is Intercidades trains are older, cheaper and stop
more regularly. Trains should be pre-booked
0.5mg/ml and is very strictly enforced.
NEED TO KNOW Getting Around Always carry your passport, licence and such as Lisbon’s Sintra and Cascais lines. A
either online or at the station, except for
Dashboard cameras are illegal in Portugal,
journeys on urban rail networks (urbanas),
as they contravene privacy laws.
insurance details. In the event of an accident
conductor will validate tickets on-board and will
often ask for ID. Tickets for urbanas can be
or breakdown, the driver and passengers must
bought at the station prior to departure and
don a fluorescent yellow safety vest and erect a
collapsible warning triangle 50 m (164 ft) behind should be validated at the ticket machines on
the platform before boarding.
the vehicle. Both of these items must be stored
in the trunk at all times. Driver’s licences issued
CP
by any EU member state are valid throughout
the EU, including Portugal. If visiting from
Public Transport
outside the EU, you may need to apply for
an International Driving Permit (IDP). ∑ cp.pt
The local motoring association, the ACP In most cities and towns, bus services suffice as
(Automóvel Club de Portugal), has a reciprocal the sole means of public transport. However,
breakdown service with most other international larger cities, including Coimbra, Lisbon and
motoring organizations. To qualify, drivers Porto, operate multiple services, including trams
should take out European cover with their own and metro systems. With the exception of
organization. Should you be involved in a road Lisbon, most of Portugal’s historic city centres
accident, the emergency services number is 112. are compact and can be covered on foot. In the
If you have simply broken down, call the ACP Algarve, buses are run privately and several
(808 502 502) or, if driving a hired car, check the companies operate services between cities.
instructions supplied by your chosen company.
ACP Public Transport Operators
∑ acp.pt Coimbra: Serviços Municipalizados de
Transportes Urbanos de Coimbra (SMTUC)
Train Travel ∑ smtuc.pt
Lisbon: Carris
International Train Travel ∑ carris.pt/en/home
There are two main routes into Portugal by train. Porto: Sociedade de Transportes Colectivos
The famous Sud Express train departs daily at do Porto (STCP)
6:45pm from Irun on the French–Spanish border, ∑ stcp.pt/en/travel
and splits near Coimbra, arriving into Lisbon and
Porto. Irun can be reached from Austerlitz Lisbon and Porto
station in Paris. Travelling from London to Portugal’s two largest cities have extensive
Lisbon, using the Eurostar to reach Paris, public transport networks comprising buses,
and then the Sud Express to Lisbon, takes metro systems, trams and funiculars. The metro
approximately 30 hours. Alternatively, the runs until 1am and is the most convenient way
overnight train from Madrid takes 10 hours. to travel, while trams and funiculars are pleasant,
Both routes are operated by the Spanish but generally less practical. Buses go just about
state-run service Renfe. You can purchase everywhere and some services run through the
tickets online or at international train stations night on a reduced schedule.
in Portugal. It is sensible to book ahead in peak The price of a single ticket varies for each
season (Jul–Aug). method of transport. Both cities offer travel
Eurostar cards that allow comprehensive access across
∑ eurostar.com networks at a discounted rate. Travel cards
Renfe (Lisbon’s Viva Viagem and Porto’s Andante) can
∑ renfe.com be bought in the main metro and train stations.
There is a small charge (€0.50/€0.60) to purchase
Domestic Train Travel the card itself and each traveller must have their
CP (Comboios de Portugal) is the country’s own. Cards can be topped up in advance or
national rail operator. Most parts of Portugal are loaded with a 24-hour pass.
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In Lisbon, a basic 24-hour pass (€6.30) allows In smaller towns, taxis can usually be found at
unlimited travel on the metro, buses, trams and ranks in the centre and several local firms may
funiculars. Advanced passes either include operate in each area. In the Algarve, many
access to Lisbon’s urban rail network (Cascais, visitors choose private hire cars or mini buses, as
Sintra, Estoril) or to ferry services across the taxi rank queues are often long in peak season
Tagus. In Porto, the price is graded by distance, and taxis can rarely be booked in advance. It is
according to the city’s zone system and can be common to tip by rounding the fare up. Some
used on the metro, buses and urban trains. A taxi drivers may offer their services as tour
2-zone pass (€4.15) covers most areas of interest, guides for a daily rate. Be careful to compare
while 4-zone tickets include the airport. their rates with others advertised before
committing to avoid being overcharged.
Long-Distance Bus Travel Taxi apps such as Uber are becoming
increasingly popular and widespread in
Travelling to Portugal by coach is cheap but very Portugal’s cities. They are extremely easy to
time consuming. Flixbus offer a variety of routes use, particularly if you already have an account.
into Portugal from destinations across Western
Europe, but they have long journey times. Cycle and Scooter Hire
National coach travel is far more convenient.
Coach companies in Portugal are competitive Portugal’s steep historic city centres are ill-
and offer efficient, comfortable services. Rede equipped for bicycles, but popular cycling routes
Expressos covers most of Portugal, linking exist on the flatter fringes and you can rent
Braga, Porto, Lisbon and Faro. As a rule, you can bicycles in most towns and cities. Long-distance
no longer buy tickets on-board for long distance journeys are best attempted during the milder
trips and there are discounts for booking early. shoulder seasons when the roads are quieter.
Tickets for shorter trips, however, can be Scooters are suitable for short journeys only
bought at the station or from the driver. EVA and inter-city travel really requires a motorcycle.
covers the Algarve particularly well, with various Most rental companies require a deposit and ask
discounted ticket deals, and Rodonorte focuses that you leave your passport at the shop. You
on the extreme north. must have a driver’s licence valid for your
Organized coach tours in Portugal are desired bike category. Note that 50cc vehicles
plentiful, especially from major cities and in are forbidden on motorways and all riders must
the Algarve. Tourist offices, hotels and travel wear helmets by law.
agencies can advise on which company might
best suit your needs. Islands and Ferries
EVA
∑ eva-bus.com Several national airlines run daily direct flights
Flixbus to Madeira and the Azores from Lisbon, Porto
∑ flixbus.com and Faro. Cheap flights are available between
Rede Expressos islands and are the fastest way to get around.
∑ rede-expressos.pt/en/ TAP flies several times a day between Funchal
Rodonorte and Porto Santo in the Madeira group; on the
∑ rodonorte.pt Azores, flights are operated by SATA. Flights to
Flores and Corvo are often disrupted by bad
Taxis weather, so for extensive island-hopping it is a
good idea to insure against delays.
Taxis in Portugal are relatively inexpensive A network of passenger ferries operated by
compared to the rest of Europe and can work Atlânticoline links all the islands of the Azores,
out as being cheaper than public transport for allowing visitors to explore the archipelago by
large groups travelling together. Most taxi sea. Journey times range from 30 minutes to
drivers only accept cash and can be hailed 18 hours, and as a rule, shorter services run
in the street and at taxi ranks. more frequently. Triangle The Azores offers
In cities, always take an official, metered a special three-in-one ticket between the
taxi. A green light indicates that the taxi is islands of Pico, Faial and São Jorge.
available and two green lights mean a higher Atlânticoline
rate of charge. Ensure that the meter is on, ∑ atlanticoline.pt
suggest agreeing on a price for longer routes SATA
and always check the extra cost for luggage ∑ sata.pt
before setting off. The average starting rate TAP
for a taxi is €3.25 by day, although rates differ ∑ flytap.com
between companies and are usually 20 per Triangle The Azores
cent higher between 10pm and 6am. ∑ triangletheazores.com

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PRACTICAL
INFORMATION





NEED TO KNOW Practical Information advice and information you will need during your stay.
A little local know-how goes a long way in Portugal. Here is all the essential


Personal Security
AT A GLANCE
While crime in Portugal is very low, pickpockets
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
are fairly common in major cities. Take care in
crowded tourist areas and aboard Lisbon’s
GENERAL
trams, particularly the 28 and 15. Keep your
EMERGENCY
AMBULANCE
valuables in a safe place when in your
accomodation and with you at all times.
1 1 2
1 1 8
If you have anything stolen, report the crime
within 24 hours to the nearest police station and
take ID with you. Get a copy of the crime report
to make an insurance claim.
FIRE
SERVICE POLICE Contact your embassy if you have your
passport stolen, or in the event of a serious
1 1 5 1 1 2 crime or accident.
Health
Seek medicinal supplies and advice for
minor ailments from pharmacies (farmácias),
TIME ZONE identifiable by a green cross. Pharmacists can
CET/CEST: Central dispense a range of drugs that would normally
European Summer
time (CEST) runs from be available only on prescription in many other
the last Sun in Mar countries. Each pharmacy displays a card in the
to the last Sun in Oct. window showing the address of the nearest all-
night pharmacy.
Emergency medical care in Portugal is free for
TAP WATER all EU citizens. If you have an EHIC (p379), present
Unless stated this as soon as possible. You may have to pay
otherwise, tap water after treatment and reclaim the money later.
in Portugal is safe For visitors coming from outside the EU,
to drink.
payment of hospital and other medical
expenses is the patient’s responsibility, so it is
important to arrange comprehensive medical
insurance before travelling.
TIPPING
Smoking, Alcohol and Drugs
Waiter 10%
Smoking is banned in most enclosed public
Hotel Porter €1–2 spaces and is a fineable offence, although some
bars still allow it.
Portugal has a high alcohol consumption
Housekeeping €1–2 rate; however, it is frowned upon to be openly
drunk. In cities it is common to drink on the
Concierge Not expected street outside the bar of purchase.
All drugs have been decriminalized in
Taxi Driver 10% Portugal since 2001, but possession of even
small quantities is considered a public health
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issue and will result in a warning or small fine. Stamps are sold in post offices, newsagents and
Be aware of drug-dealers brazenly plying their on the CTT website. Post should take around
wares in city centres. 3–5 days to reach the rest of Europe, 7 days for
elsewhere in the world and can be tracked on
ID the CTT website, where you can also find details
of your nearest post office. There is also a choice
By law you must carry identification with you of international couriers.
at all times in Portugal. A photocopy of your CTT
passport should suffice. If stopped by the police ∑ ctt.pt
you may be asked to report to a police station
with the original document. Taxes and Refunds
Local Customs VAT is usually 23 per cent. Under certain
conditions, non-EU citizens can claim a rebate.
As the pressure of tourism grows in Portugal’s Either claim the rebate before you buy (show
cities, small efforts to integrate are appreciated. your passport to the shop assistant and
Try to use simple Portuguese phrases and complete a form) or present a customs officer
greetings appropriate to the time of day. with your receipts as you leave.
A much-loved aspect of Portugal is the slow
pace of life. This is evident as a pedestrian, at Discount Cards
public events and when making social engage-
ments, so try to stifle any impatience and Major cities offer a visitor’s pass or discount
readjust your tempo suitably. card for exhibitions, events and museum entry.
Some, like the Lisboa and Porto Cards, even
Visiting Churches cover the cost of public transport. These are not
and Cathedrals free, so consider carefully how many of the
offers you are likely to take advantage of before
Most churches and cathedrals will not permit purchasing a card.
visitors during Sunday Mass. Generally, entrance Lisboa Card
to churches is free, however a fee may apply to ∑ lisboacard.org
enter special areas, like cloisters. Porto Card
Portugal retains a strong Catholic identity. ∑ oporto.ticketbar.eu
When visiting religious buildings ensure that
you are dressed modestly, with your knees WEBSITES AND APPS
and shoulders covered.
Mobile Phones and Wi-Fi VisitPortugal
Check out www.visitportugal.com, the
website of Portugal’s tourism board.
Free Wi-Fi is not yet widespread in Portugal, Guia de Viagem Visit Portugal
although it can be found in some restaurants
and bars, specifically those aimed at tourists. This useful app shows points of interest
nearby or by category.
Visitors travelling to Portugal with EU tariffs Odisseias
are able to use their devices abroad without
being affected by roaming charges. Users will be Visit www.odisseias.com for deals in
Lisbon and Porto.
charged the same rates for data, calls and texts Lisbon Street Art
as at home.
Locate street art in the capital with
this cool app.
Post VisitAzores
This app is essential for anyone
The postal service is run by CTT (Correios de
Portugal), which offers a wide range of services travelling in the Azores.
at prices lower than the European average.
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INDEX




Page numbers in bold refer to Alpiarça 187 Baixa and Avenida (Lisbon) 55,
main entries. Alte 319, 337 74–87
Alter do Chão 293, 304 hotels 81
A Alvor 330–31 map 76–7
Index Abd al Rahman 43 Amarante 252, 253 restaurants 84
shopping 83
restaurants 252
Abrantes 184–5 Amélia, Queen 114 walk 86–7
restaurants 186 Angra do Heroísmo (Terceira) 365, Baleal 178–9
Absolutism 45 370, 371 Barbarian tribes 42–3, 209
Accommodation 379 Antigo Paço Episcopal (Braga) 275 Barcelos 280–81
see also Hotels Apps 385 Baroque architecture 19
Afonso, Duke of Bragança 300 Aqueduct (Elvas) 304–5 Barragem do Alto Rabagão 256
Afonso Henriques 43, 61 Aqueduct (Serpa) 310 Barragem do Castelo de Bode 167,
Afonso III 43, 182, 234, 306, 322 Aqueduto da Água de Prata (Évora) 184
Afonso IV 71, 171 299 Barrancos 310
Afonso V 179 Aqueduto das Águas Livres Barredo District (Porto) 236
Afonso VI 150 (Lisbon) 134 Bars and cafés
Age of Discovery 20, 44, 105, 108 Architecture 18–19 Algarve 336
Padrão dos Descobrimentos Arganil 210 Azores, the 371
114–15 Armed Forces Movement 78 Bairro Alto and Estrela (Lisbon) 97
Air travel 380, 381 Arouca 206 Minho 280
Al Andalus 43 Arraiolos 309 Porto 235
Alandroal 307 Arruda, Diogo de 176 Basílica da Estrela (Lisbon)
Albert, Prince 153 Art 20–21 100–101
Albufeira 332 Art Deco 18, 21 Batalha, Mosteiro de Santa Maria
Albuquerque, Afonso de 67, 69, 118 Art galleries see Museums and da Vitória 167, 172–3
Alcácer do Sal 163 galleries Beaches 10, 28–9
hotels 161 Art Nouveau 21 for children 33
Alcañices Treaty 213, 215 ATMs 379 Beiras, the 141, 190–219
Alcântara valley 134 Aveiro 191, 194–5 drive 218–19
Alcobaça, Mosteiro de 167, 170–71 map 195 hotels 215
Alcochete 159 Avenida da Libertade (Lisbon) 82 map 192–3
Alcoforado, Mariana 313 Avillez, José 100, 101 restaurants 213, 217
Alcohol 384 Avis dynasty 115, 173, 307 wine 211
Alcoutim 319, 339 Azambuja, Diogo da 208 Beja 293, 312–13
Alenquer 188–9 Azores, the 345, 364–75 restaurants 314
Alentejo 29, 288, 292–317 bars and cafés 371 Belém (Lisbon) 56, 104–19
driving tour 316–17 ferries 383 hotels 112
hotels 303, 311 hotels 375 map 106–7
map 294–5 itinerary 346–7 restaurants 115
restaurants 299, 304, 314 landscape 26 walk 118–19
wine 308 map 366–7 Belmonte 214–15
Alfama (Lisbon) 37, 54, 60–73 restaurants 373 hotels 217
hotels 69 wine 371 Berlenga Islands 178
map 62–3 Azulejos 12, 38–9 Biblioteca Joanina (Coimbra
restaurants 71 Museu Nacional do Azulejo University) 201
walk 72–3 (Lisbon) 39, 126–7 Bisalhães 256
Algar do Carvão (Terceira) 371 Boats
Algarve 29, 289, 318–39 B Douro boat trips 260
bars 336 ferries 382
hotels 329 Bacalhôa Buddha Eden Gardens moliceiro 195
map 320–21 180–81 Bocage, Manuel Barbosa du 83,
restaurants 324, 326, 332 Bacon, Francis 115 162
shopping 339 Bairro Alto and Estrela (Lisbon) 10, Boelhe 252
Aljezur 326 55, 88–103 Boitac, Diogo 19, 116, 163, 180, 196
Aljubarrota, Battle of 167, 172, 173, bars 97 Bom Jesus do Monte 276–7
278 hotels 98 Bosch, Hieronymus 94
Almada Negreiros, José de 125 map 90–91 Triptych of the Temptation of St
Almancil 39, 333 restaurants 101 Anthony 93, 95
Almeida 213 walk 102–3 Boticas 256
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Braga 267, 274–5 Car rental 383 Castles and fortifications (cont.)
bars and cafés 274, 280 Car travel see Driving Marvão castle 302
map 275 Carvalhelhos 256 Mértola castle 314
Bragança 248–9 Casa de Mateus (near Vila Real) Monsanto castle 216
Bragança dynasty 250–51 Monsaraz castle 309
Bragança 248 Casa dos Bicos (Lisbon) 68–9 Montemor-o-Novo castle 308
Bragança Pantheon (Lisbon) 66 Casa-Museu Guerra Junqueiro Montemor-o-Velho castle 208
Guarda 214 (Porto) 236, 242 Moura castle 311
Paço Ducal (Vila Viçosa) 300–301 Casa Museu Madeiros e Almeida Óbidos castle 179
Bravães 281 (Lisbon) 83 Ourém castle 183
Brazil 44, 46, 215 Casa-Museu Teixeira Lopes (Porto) Palmela castle 160–61
Brueghel, Pieter II 83 235 Penamacor castle 216
Buçaco 191 Cascais 145, 159 Penedono castle 212
Bussaco Palace Hotel 202–3 hotels 157 Penela castle 208
Bus travel 382 restaurants 159 Porto de Mós castle 182
Castanheira de Pêra 208 Sabugal castle 215
C Castelo see Castles and Sagres fortress 328
Sanfins de Ferreira citadel 251
fortifications
Cabeceiras de Basto 279 Castelo Branco 216–17 Santiago do Cacém castle 312
Cable cars Castelo de Vide 24, 303 Sortelha castle 215
Monte to Jardim Botânico Castilho, João de 19, 109, 176, 177 Tavira castle 336
(Madeira) 356 Castles and fortifications Torre da Princesa (Bragança) 248
Teleférico de Gaia (Porto) 234, Abrantes castle 184 Torre de Belém (Lisbon) 110–11
235 Alandroal castle 307 Torre do Galo (Freixo de Espada
Cabo de São Vicente 312, 328–9 Alcácer do Sal castle 163 à Cinta) 261
Cabo Espichel 160 Alcoutim castle 339 Valença do Minho forts 282
Cabral, Pedro Álvares 44, 214–15 Aljezur castle 326 Viana do Alentejo castle 310
Cacela Velha 25, 338 Alvito castle 311 Castro, Inês de 170, 171, 199
Cacilhas 128 Belmonte castle 215 Castro, Machado de 100–101
Caesar, Julius 186, 312 Border Castles Tour 218–19 Castro Marim 338–9
Caetano, Marcelo 78 Bragança Citadel 248 Cathedrals see Churches and
Cafés 36 Castelo Branco castle 216 cathedrals; Sé
Cais do Sodré (Lisbon) 18, 38, 128 Castelo de Almourol 185 Catherine of Bragança 307
Calatrava, Santiago 132 Castelo de Alter do Chão 304 Caves 27
Caldas da Rainha 180 Castelo de Arouce 208 Furado Grande (Berlenga
Calendar: A Year in Portugal 40–41 Castelo de Évoramonte 307 Grande) 178
Calheta 362 Castelo de Guimarães 278 Furna do Enxofre (Graciosa) 372
Camacha 357 Castelo de Leiria 182 Grutas de Mira de Aire (Porto de
Câmara de Lobos 362–3 Castelo de São Filipe (Setúbal) Mós) 182
restaurants 359 163 Grutas e Centro do Vulcanismo
Camera obscura (Lisbon) 64, 65 Castelo de São Jorge (Lisbon) de São Vicente 361
Caminha 282 64–5 Celorico da Beira 212–13
restaurants 283 Castelo de Silves 331 Celts 42, 209, 267
Camões, Luís Vaz de 115, 156, 184, Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra) 149 Citânia de Briteiros 267, 279
185, 299 Castro Marim castle 338–9 Viana do Castelo 272
Campo Maior 306 Chaves castle 257 Central Portugal 136–219
Campo Pequeno 132 Elvas castle and fortifications Beiras, the 141, 190–219
Canal Central (Aveiro) 194 304–5 driving tour 218–19
Caniçal 358 Estremoz fortifications 306 Estremadura and Ribatejo 141,
Cão, Diogo 256 Évora Walls 299 166–89
Caparica 145, 158, 159 Fernandine Wall (Porto) 242, 243 food and drink 23, 187
restaurants 162 Fortaleza de Santa Catarina itinerary 142–3
Capela see Churches and (Portimão) 330 Lisbon Coast 140, 144–63
cathedrals Fortaleza de São João Baptista map 138–9
Caramulo 210–11 (Angra do Heroísmo) 370 Centro Cultural de Belém (Lisbon)
Carlos I 46, 66, 78, 114, 202 Forte São João Baptista 114
Carnation Revolution 47, 78 (Berlenga Grande) 178 Centro de Interpretação do Vulcão
Carneiro, Alberto 115 Forteza (Peniche) 178 dos Capelinhos (Faial) 374
Cárquere 252–3 Lagos fortress 329 Centro Portuguese da Fotografia
Carrasqueira 162 Loulé castle 334 (Porto) 240
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Ceramics Churches and cathedrals (cont.)
Museu de Cerâmica (Caldas da São Francisco (Évora) 298 Da Gama, Vasco 44, 114, 189
Rainha) 180 São Francisco (Guimarães) Casa Vasco da Gama (Sines) 313
Cerro da Vila 333 278–9 cenotaph 67
Cetóbriga 162 São João Baptista (Tomar) tomb 109
Chaves 257 175 Dão valley 211
hotels 255 São Miguel (Lisbon) 73 De Kooning, Willem 115
restaurants 259 São Pedro (Faro) 324 Delacroix, Eugène 187
Index Chiado (Lisbon) 89, 97 São Roque (Lisbon) 96, 103 Della Robbia, Andrea 93
Design Centre Nini Andrade Silva
fire 97
São Vicente de Fora (Lisbon)
walk 102–3 39, 66 (Funchal) 355
Children 32–3 Sé (Braga) 274 Dias, Bartolomeu 189
Christmas 25, 41 Sé (Évora) 296 Dinis, Dom 176, 200, 213,
Churches and cathedrals Sé (Faro) 322 303, 310
Basílica da Estrela (Lisbon) Sé (Funchal) 352 Dinosaurs 184
100–101 Sé (Guarda) 214 Disabled travellers 379
Bom Jesus do Monte 276–7 Sé (Lisbon) 70–71 Discount cards 385
Capela da Rainha Santa Sé Nova (Coimbra) 198 Doca de Santo Amaro (Lisbon)
(Estremoz) 306–7 Sé (Porto) 236, 242 130–31
Capela de São Miguel (Coimbra Sé (Silves) 331 Dolmens 293, 316–17
University) 200, 201 Sé Velha (Coimbra) 196–7 Domingues, Afonso 172, 173
Capela dos Ossos (Campo Maior) Sé (Viseu) 211 Dona Beatriz 71
306 Templo do Sagrado Coração de Douro, River
Capela dos Ossos (Faro) 324 Jesus 272, 273 boat trips 260
Chapel of St Albert (Museu Válega church 207 Porto 229
Nacional de Arte Antiga, visiting 385 port wine 245, 254
Lisbon) 92, 95 see also Monasteries and Douro and Tras-os-Montes 225,
Ermida de Santo António do Alto convents 244–65
(Faro) 325 Churchill, Winston 362–3 hotels 255
Ermida de São Jerómimo (Lisbon) Cinfães 252–3 map 246–7
116 Citânia de Briteiros 267, 279 restaurants 253, 259
Fátima basilica 183 Clement V, Pope 176 Dovecotes 261
Igreja da Memória (Lisbon) Closures 379 Driving 382–3
116–17 Coach travel 382 car journey planner 381
Igreja de São Francisco (Porto) Coimbra 191, 196–201 Driving tours
238 Coimbra University 200–201 Border Castles Tour 218–19
Igreja do Carmo & Carmelitas map 196 Megaliths Tour 316–17
(Porto) 240 restaurants 213 Port Country Tour 264–5
Igreja do Carmo (Faro) 324 Colaço, Jorge 39, 237, 243 Drugs 384–5
Igreja do Carmo (Lisbon) 96, 103 Colares 156–7 Duarte, King 172
Igreja dos Clérigos (Porto) 239 Columbus, Christopher 208 Duas Igrejas 259
Igreja Matriz de São Lourenço Casa de Colombo (Porto Santo)
(Almancil) 333 363 E
Nossa Senhora da Conceição Conímbriga 191, 209
(Tomar) 174 Constância 185 Eames, Charles and Ray 85
Nossa Senhora da Conceição Convento see Monasteries and Eanes, Gil 328, 329
Velha (Lisbon) 85 convents Easter 25, 41
Nossa Senhora da Oliveira Cork oaks 315 Edward VII 129
(Guimarães) 278–9 Coruche 188 Electricity supply 378
Nossa Senhora da Peneda 271 Corvo (Azores) 375 Elevador da Glória (Lisbon) 86
Nossa Senhora dos Remédios Costa da Caparica 145, 159 Elevador da Lavra (Lisbon) 85
(Lamego) 255 Coudelaria de Alter (Alter do Chão) Elevador de Santa Justa (Lisbon)
Nossa Senhora dos Remédios 304 80–81, 103
(Lisbon) 73 Cranach, Lucas 95 Elvas 293, 304–5
Santa Cruz (Coimbra) 196 Crato 303 Emergency numbers 384
Santa Cruz do Castelo (Lisbon) 65 Credit cards 379 English Cemetery (Lisbon) 100
Santa Engrácia (Lisbon) 67 Crime 384 Entertainment
Santa Luzia (Lisbon) 72 Cristo Rei (Lisbon) 120, 128–9 Centro Cultural de Belém
Santa Maria da Graça (Setúbal) Curral das Freiras 360 (Lisbon) 114
162 Currency 378 Teatro Nacional de São Carlos
Santo António à Sé (Lisbon) 70 Customs information 378 (Lisbon) 97
Santo António (Lagos) 329 Cycling 30 Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II
Santuário da Nossa Senhora da cycle hire 383 (Lisbon) 83, 87
Lapa 212 Praia de Mira 206 see also Fado; Nightlife
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Ericeira 157 Food and drink Henry the Navigator 44, 67, 115,
Ermelo 263 Contemporary Portuguese 319, 328, 329
Ermida de São Jerómimo (Lisbon) Cuisine 100 Herculano, Alexandre 109
116 custard tarts 37, 115 Hiking 30
Escola de Rendas (Vila do Conde) picnics 207, 275 Madeira 359
283 Portugal for Foodies 22–3 Paiva Walkways 206
Espigueiros (granaries) 271 Rabaçal cheese 208 Parque Nacional da Peneda-
Estado Novo 46–7 Serra cheese 204, 212 Gerês 270
Estoi 337 see also Bars and cafés; Praia de Mira 206
Estoril 145, 158 Restaurants Rota Vicentina 312
Estrela see Bairro Alto and Estrela Football 33, 135, 279 Serra da Estrela 204–5
Estremadura and Ribatejo 141, Forests 27 see also Walks
166–89 Buçaco 191, 202–3 Historic buildings
hotels 179 Mata Nacional das Dunas de Mira Casa das Fontes (Conímbriga)
map 168–9 206 209
restaurants 183, 186 Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes Casa de Cantaber (Conímbriga)
wines 189 (Tomar) 175 209
Estremoz 24, 306–7 Forts see Castles and fortifications Casa de Mateus (near Vila Real)
hotels 303 Foz do Minho 282 250–51
restaurants 304 Freixo de Espada à Cinta 261 Casa dos Bicos (Lisbon) 68–9
Etiquette 385 Funchal 352–5 Domus Municipalis (Bragança)
European Union 47 hotels 357 248, 249
Events 40–41 lidos 355 Solar do Vinho do Porto (Lisbon)
Évora 13, 293, 296–9 map 353 99
map 296–7 shopping 354 see also Castles and
restaurants 299 Fundação Eugénio de Almeida fortifications; Churches and
Évoramonte 307 (Évora) 299 cathedrals; Palaces
Expo 98 132 Fundação Oriente Museu (Lisbon) History 42–7
131 Horta (Faial) 374
F Funicular dos Guindães (Porto) 233 hotels 375
restaurants 373
Furna do Enxofre (Graciosa) 372–3
Fado 12, 36 Furnas (São Miguel) 369 Hotels
Coimbra 196 hotels 375 Alentejo 303, 311
Museu do Fado (Lisbon) 68 restaurants 373 Algarve 329
Museu Nacional do Teatro Azores, the 375
(Lisbon) 135 G Beiras, the 215
Fagundes, João Álvares 273 Douro and Tras-os-Montes 255
Faial (Azores) 374 Gardens see Parks and gardens Estremadura and Ribatejo 179
hotels 375 Golegã 186–7 Lisbon: Alfama 69
restaurants 373 Golf 30 Lisbon: Bairro Alto and Estrela
Faro 322–5 Gonçalves, Nuno 115 98
bars 336 São Vicente de Fora polyptych Lisbon: Baixa and Avenida 81
hotels 329 94, 95 Lisbon: Belém 112
map 323 Gothic architecture 18 Lisbon: Beyond the Centre 129
restaurants 324 Graciosa (Azores) 372–3 Lisbon Coast 149, 157, 161
shopping 339 Grão Vasco (Vasco Fernandes) 211, Madeira 357
Faro Jewish Heritage Centre 325 255 Minho 279
Fátima 167, 183 Grutas de Mira de Aire 27 Porto 237
restaurants 183 Grutas e Centro do Vulcanismo de Huguet, David 172, 173
Feira da Ladra (Lisbon) 66–7 São Vicente 361
Fernandine Wall (Porto) 242, 243 Guadiana, River 338, 339 I
Fernando I 173, 243, 299, 339 Guarda 214
Fernando II 149, 152, 153 hotels 215 ID 384
Ferries Guerra Junqueiro, Abílio Manuel Idanha-a-Velha 216
Madeira and the Azores 383 236, 261 Igreja da Memória (Lisbon) 116–17
Tagus 128, 382 Guimarães 267, 278–9 Igreja de São Francisco (Porto) 238
Festivals 11, 40–41 bars and cafés 280 Igreja do Carmo & Carmelitas
village 25 Gulbenkian, Calouste 122, 124 (Porto) 240
Fielding, Henry 100 Igreja do Carmo (Faro) 324
Figueira da Foz 29, 207 H Igreja do Carmo (Lisbon) 96, 103
Fishing industry 194 Igreja dos Clérigos (Porto) 239
Flores (Azores) 374–5 Hadrian, Emperor 304, 322 Ilha de Tavira 337
Fóia 326, 327 Health 384 Ilha do Pessegueiro 315
Fonte da Telha 158 Henrique, Cardinal-King 44 Insurance 378–9
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Internet access 385 Lagoa Funda (Flores) 375 Madeira 344, 348–63
Isabel of Aragon (Santa Isabel) 179, Lagos 329 ferries 383
182, 199, 213, 303, 306 Lalique, René 20, 21, 122, 124 food and drink 22
Itineraries Lamas de Olo 263 hotels 357
2 Days in Lisbon 58–9 Lamego 254–5 landscape 27
7 Days in the Azores 346–7 Landscape 26–7 levadas 11, 31, 359, 362
7 Days in Central Portugal 142–3 Language 379 map 350–51
7 Days in Northern Portugal essential phrases 378 restaurants 359
Index 7 Days in Portugal 16–17 Largo da Porta de Moura (Évora) shopping 354
Mirandês 251
226–7
wine 352, 360
7 Days in Southern Portugal 299 Madeiros e Almeida, António 83
290–91 Laurisilva 349 Mãe d’Água reservoir/springs 134
Leiria 182 Mafra, Palácio Nacional de 156
J Leonor, Queen 85, 126, 179, 180, Malfada, Princess 206
restaurants 181
Malhoa, José, O Fado 68
Jardim Botânico (Coimbra) 198 197, 322 Manet, Édouard 125
Jardim Botânico da Ajuda (Lisbon) Leonor Teles 173 Manuel I 239, 245, 303
117 Levadas 11, 31, 359, 362 Bragança 249
Jardim Botânico (Funchal) 354 Levete, Amanda 19 Castelo São Jorge (Lisbon) 64
Jardim Botânico (Lisbon) 81 Lines of Torres Vedras 167, 189 Manueline architecture 19
Jardim Botânico Tropical (Lisbon) Linhares 205 maritime expansion 328
112–13, 119 Lisbon 10, 36–7, 50–135 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Lisbon)
Jardim da Estrela (Lisbon) 100 Alfama 60–73 108, 113, 172
Jardim do Mar (village) 362 Bairro Alto and Estrela 88–103 Padrão dos Descobrimentos
Jardim do Morro (Porto) 235 Baixa and Avenida 74–87 (Lisbon) 115
Jardim do Palácio do Cristal (Porto) Belém 104–19 Palácio Nacional de Sintra 150,
241 Beyond the Centre 120–35 151
Jesuits 198, 298 food and drink 23 Praça do Comercio (Lisbon) 78
Jewish communities 213 214, 248, itineraries 11, 58–9 Torre de Belém (Lisbon) 110
249, 303 map 52–3 Manuel II 46, 66, 152
Faro Jewish Heritage Centre 325 public transport 380, 382 Bussaco Palace Hotel 203
Museu Judaico de Belmonte 215 Lisbon: Beyond the Centre 57, exile 157
Museu Luso-Hebraico de 120–35 Manueline architecture 19
Abraham Zacuto 174 hotels 129 Maps
João I 44, 150, 160, 172, 173 map 121 Alentejo 294–5
Battle of Aljubarrota 173, 278 restaurants 133 Algarve 320–21
statue 84 shopping 131 Aveiro 195
João II 300, 304, 327, 328, 331 Lisbon Coast 140, 144–63 Azores, the 366–7
João III 114, 303 hotels 149, 157, 161 Beiras, the 192–3
João IV 45, 66, 186, 214, 299 map 146–7 Braga 275
Paço Ducal (Vila Viçosa) 300 restaurants 159, 162 car journey planner 381
João V 45, 70, 96, 112, 133, 156, 199 Lisbon Earthquake (1755) 45, 75, Central Portugal 138–9
João VI 117, 155, 334 319 Coimbra 196
John Paul II, Pope 70, 183 Livraria Lello (Porto) 239 Douro and Tras-os-Montes
José I 78, 79, 112, 116, 304 Local customs 385 246–7
Juan I of Castile 173 Loulé 334–5 Estremadura and Ribatejo
Junot, General 184 Lourosa 210 168–9
Lousã 208 Évora 296–7
K Ludovice, João Frederico (Ludwig) Faro 323
19, 99, 156, 296
Funchal 353
Kayaking, River Mondego 199 Luís Felipe, Prince 66, 78 Lisbon 52–3
Knights Hospitallers 210, 303 Luís I 117, 159 Lisbon: Alfama 62–3
Knights of Santiago 331, 338 Lusitania 42 Lisbon: Bairro Alto and Estrela
Knights Templar 174, 175, 176, 216, Luso 209 90–91
308, 312 LX Factory (Lisbon) 131 Lisbon: Baixa and Avenida 76–7
Lisbon: Belém 106–7
L M Lisbon: Beyond the Centre 121
Lisbon Coast 146–7
Lagoa das Sete Cidades (São MAAT - Museu de Arte, Arquitetura Madeira 350–51
Miguel) 368–9 e Tecnologia (Lisbon) 19, 116, Minho 268–9
Lagoa de Melides 313 117 Northern Portugal 222–3
Lagoa de Santo André 312, 313 Machado de Castro, Joaquim 197 Porto 230–31
Lagoa do Caldeirão (Corvo) 375 Machico 357 Porto: Vila Nova da Gaia 235
Lagoa do Fogo (São Miguel) 368 Madalena (Pico) 373 Portugal’s Islands 342–3
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Maps (cont.) Monasteries and convents (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Sintra 149 Convento da Madre de Deus Casa-Museu Guerra Junqueiro
Southern Portugal 286–7 (Lisbon) 126–7 (Porto) 236, 242
Tomar 175 Convento de Cristo (Tomar) 174, Casa Museu Madeiros e Almeida
Marble 306 175, 176–7 (Lisbon) 83
Maria I 100, 114, 154, 155 Convento de Nossa Senhora da Casa-Museu Teixeira Lopes
Maria II 152, 153 Conceição (Beja) 313 (Porto) 235
Marialva 212 Convento de Santa Clara Casa Vasco da Gama (Sines) 313
Markets (Funchal) 354 Centro das Artes Casa das
Feira da Ladra (Lisbon) 66–7 Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar Mudas (Calheta) 362
Feira de Barcelos 280 (Porto) 234 Centro de Educação Ambiental
Largo de Sá Carneiro (Faro) 322 Mosteiro de Alcobaça 167, de Marim 335
LX Factory flea market (Lisbon) 170–71 Centro de Interpretação do
131 Mosteiro de Arouca 206 Vulcão dos Capelinhos (Faial)
Mercado do Peixe (Aveiro) 194 Mosteiro de Santa Maria da 374
Mercado dos Lavradores Vitória (Batalha) 167, 172–3 Centro do Vulcanismo de São
(Funchal) 354 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Lisbon) Vicente 361
Mercado Municipal (Olhão) 339 19, 108–9, 113, 118, 119 Centro Interpretivo do Tapete
Time Out Market (Mercado da Palácio de Mafra 156 (Arraiolos) 309
Ribeira) (Lisbon) 37, 101 Santa Clara-a-Nova (Coimbra) Centro Portuguese da
Marvão 24, 25, 302 198–9 Fotografia (Porto) 240
hotels 303 Santa Clara-a-Velha (Coimbra) Conímbriga museum 209
Masséna, André 191, 213 199 Cripta Arqeuológica do Castelo
Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes São Bento (Santo Tirso) 251 (Alcácer do Sal) 163
(Tomar) 175 São João de Tarouca (near Design Centre Nini Andrade Silva
Mealhada 209 Lamego) 255 (Funchal) 355
Medical care 384 Monção 282, 283 Fundação de Serralves (Porto)
Megaliths Tour 316–17 Monchique 327 18
Mendes, Fernão 248 Mondego, River 199, 208 Fundação Eugénio de Almeida
Menhirs 309, 316–17 Money 378, 379 (Évora) 299
Mercado see Markets Monsanto 216 Fundação Oriente Museu
Mértola 314–15 Monsaraz 24, 308–9 (Lisbon) 131
Mesão Frio 254 Monserrate 158 Lagar de Varas do Fojo (Moura)
Methuen Treaty 245 Montalegre 256 311
Metro 382 Monte 32, 356, 357 Lisbon Story Centre 78, 79
azulejos 38–9 Monte de Santa Luzia (Viano do MAAT - Museu de Arte,
Mid Atlantic Ridge 373 Castelo) 273 Arquitetura e Tecnologia
Miguel I 46, 236, 307 Monte Estoril 158 (Lisbon) 19, 116, 117
Milreu 337 Montemor-o-Novo 308 MUDE (Museu do Design e da
Minas de São Domingos 315 Montemor-o-Velho 208 Moda) (Lisbon) 85
Minho 225, 266–83 Montesinho 259, 261 Museu Abade Pedrosa (Santo
bars and cafés 274, 280 Moors 43 Tirso) 251
hotels 279 Algarve 319 Museu Amadeo de Souza-
map 268–9 Morais, Graça 125 Cardoso (Amarante) 253
restaurants 283 Mosteiro see Monasteries and Museu Antoniano (Lisbon) 70
Minho, River 267 convents Museu Arqueológico (Albufeira)
Miradouro da Graça (Lisbon) 68 Motorways 383 332
Miradouro da São Pedro de Mountains 26, 35 Museu Arqueológico (Barcelos)
Alcantara (Lisbon) 34, 99 Moura 311 280–81
Miradouro de Santa Catarina Mudéjar style 19 Museu Arqueológico (Silves) 331
(Lisbon) 34 MUDE (Museu do Design e da Moda) Museu Calouste Gulbenkian
Miradouro de Santa Luzia (Lisbon) (Lisbon) 85, 114 (Lisbon) 21, 122–5
34, 67, 72 Murça 258 Museu Cargaleiro (Castelo
Miranda do Douro 259 Museums and galleries Branco) 217
Mirandela 258 Casa da Cultura Islâmica e Museu Colecção Berardo
restaurants 259 Mediterrânica (Silves) 331 (Lisbon) 20, 114, 115
Miróbriga 312 Casa das Histórias (Cascais) Museu CR7 (Funchal) 33, 355
Mobile phones 385 20 Museu da Água (Lisbon) 132
Mogadouro 260 Casa de Colombo (Porto Santo) Museu da Baleia (Caniçal) 358
Monasteries and convents 363 Museu da Fábrica da Baleia do
Carmelite monastery (Busaço) Casa-Estúdio Carlos Relvas Boquerirão (Santa Cruz) 375
202, 203 (Goldegã) 187 Museu da Graciosa 372, 373
Convento da Graça (Torres Casa Museu dos Patudos Museu da Guarda 214
Vedras) 189 (Alpiarça) 187 Museu da Horta 374
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Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Museu da Indústria Baleeira Museu do Fado (Lisbon) 68 Museu Nacional do Azulejo
(Pico) 373 Museu Dom Lopo de Almeida (Lisbon) 39, 126–7
Museu da Marioneta (Lisbon) 98 (Abrantes) 184–5 Museu Nacional dos Coches
Museu da Misericórdia do Porto Museu do Neo-Realismo (Vila (Lisbon) 111
238–9 Franca de Xira) 188 Museu Nacional do Teatro
Museu da Região Flaviense Museu dos Baleeiros (Pico) 373 (Lisbon) 135
(Chaves) 257 Museu do Scrimshaw (Horta) Museu Nacional do Traje (Lisbon)
Index Museu das Artes de Sintra 148 Museu dos Fósforos (Tomar) Museu Nacional Machado de
374
135
Museu da Seda e do Território
(Freixo de Espada à Cinta) 261 175 Castro (Coimbra) 197
Museu das Flores (Santa Cruz) Museu dos Terceiros (Ponte de Museu Quinta das Cruzes
375 Lima) 281 (Funchal) 353
Museu da Sociedade de Museu dos Transportes e Museu Regional (Faro) 323
Geografia (Lisbon) 85, 87 Comunicaçãoes (Porto) 237 Museu Rural do Vinho (Cartaxo)
Museu da Terra de Miranda Museu do Vinho (Terceira) 371 189
(Miranda do Douro) 259 Museu Etnográfico da Madeira Parque Arqueológico do Vale do
Museu de Alberto Samaio (Ribeira Brava) 362 Côa (Torre de Moncorvo) 260
(Guimarães) 278–9 Museu Francisco de Lacerda Pavilhão do Conhecimento -
Museu de Angra do Heroísmo (São Jorge) 372 Ciencia Viva (Lisbon) 132
370, 371 Museu Francisco Tavares Watch Museum (Serpa) 310
Museu de Arqueologia e Proença Júnior (Castelo World of Discoveries (Porto)
Etnografia (Setúbal) 163 Branco) 217 236–7
Museu de Arqueologia Museu Judaico de Belmonte 215 Music, see also Entertainment;
(Montemor-o-Novo) 308 Museu Luso-Hebraico de Fado
Museu de Arte Contemporânea Abraham Zacuto (Tomar) 174
de Elvas 305 Museu Marquês de Pombal N
Museu de Arte Sacra (Coimbra) (Pombal) 183
200 Museu Martins Sarmento 278–9 Napoleon 45, 83, 189, 191, 234
Museu de Arte Sacra (Funchal) Museu Militar (Chaves) 257 see also Peninsular War
21, 352 Museu Militar (Lisbon) 68 National parks, Parque Nacional da
Museu de Arte Sacra (Monsaraz) Museu Municipal Armindo Peneda-Gerês 27, 30, 270–71
309 Teixeira Lopes (Mirandela) Nature reserves
Museu de Artes Decorativas 258 Flores Biosphere Reserve 375
(Lisbon) 66, 72 Museu Municipal de Carlos Reis Lagoa de Melides 313
Museu de Aveiro 195 (Torres Novas) 186 Lagoa de Santo André 312, 313
Museu de Carris (Lisbon) 33, 131 Museu Municipal de Estremoz Parque Natural da Ria Formosa
Museu de Cerâmica (Caldas da Professor Joaquim Vermelho 26, 334, 335, 338
Rainha) 180 306–7 Parque Natural de Montesinho
Museu de Évora 298 Museu Municipal de Fotografia 258–9
Museu de Grão Vasco (Viseu) 211 João Carpinteiro (Elvas) 305 Parque Natural do Alvão 263
Museu de Historia Natural de Museu Municipal Dr Santos Parque Natural do Vale do
Sintra 148 Rocha (Figueira da Foz) 207 Guadiana 314
Museu de Lamego 255 Museu Municipal (Faro) 322 Reserva Natural das Dunas de
Museu de Lisboa 133 Museu Municipal (Marvão) 302 São Jacinto 195
Museu de Marinha (Lisbon) 114 Museu Municipal (Óbidos) 179 Reserva Natural da Serra da
Museu de Ovar 207 Museu Municipal (Porto de Mós) Malcata 216
Museu de Peniche 178 182 Reserva Natural do Estuário do
Museu de Portimão 330 Museu Municipal (Santiago do Sado 163
Museu de São Roque (Lisbon) 103 Cacém) 312 Reserva Natural do Sapal 339
Museu do Aljube - Resistência e Museu Municipal (Torres Vedras) São Jorge Biosphere Reserve 373
Liberdade (Lisbon) 69 189 Serra da Estrela 204–5
Museu do Automóvel (Caramulo) Museu Municipal (Vila Franca de Serra de São Mamede 302
211 Xira) 188 Nazaré 29, 181
Museu do Café (Campo Maior) Museu Nacional de Arqueologia Nightlife 36
306 (Lisbon) 108, 113, 118 Northern Portugal 220–83
Museu do Caramulo (Fundação Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga Douro and Tras-os-Montes 225,
Abel e João Lacerda) 211 (Lisbon) 21, 92–5 244–65
Museu do Carmo (Lisbon) 96 Museu Nacional de Arte driving tour 264–5
Museu do Castelo (Lisbon) 64 Contemporãnea do Chiado food and drink 23
Museu do Côa (Torre de (Lisbon) 98 itinerary 226–7
Moncorvo) 260 Museu Nacional de História map 222–3
Museu do Douro (Peso da Natural e da Ciência (Lisbon) Minho 225, 266–83
Régua) 254 81 Porto 224, 228–43
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Nossa Senhora da Conceição Parks and gardens (cont.) Personal security 384
(Tomar) 174 Jardim Botânico da Ajuda Peso da Régua 254
Nossa Senhora da Conceição Velha (Lisbon) 117 Pessoa, Fernando 96, 97, 125
(Lisbon) 85 Jardim Botânico (Funchal) 354 Pharmacies 384
Núcleo Arqueológico (Lisbon) 85 Jardim Botânico (Lisbon) 81 Philip II of Spain 44, 111
Jardim Botânico Tropical (Lisbon) Philip IV of Spain 213
O Jardim da Estrela (Lisbon) 100 Phoenicians 145, 163, 191, 314, 319
112–13, 119
Photography 34–5
Óbidos 24, 179 Jardim de Santa Bárbara (Braga) Phrases 378
hotels 179 275 Picasso, Pablo 115, 362
Oceanário de Lisboa 33, 132–3 Jardim do Morro (Porto) 235 Pico (Azores) 26, 373
O Fado (Malhoa) 68 Jardim do Palácio do Cristal bars 371
Olhão 334 (Porto) 241 hotels 375
shopping 339 Jardim Episcopal (Castelo Pico do Ariero 359
Oliveira do Hospital 210 Branco) 217 Pico Ruivo 359
Opening hours 379 Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes Picota 327
Opera 97 (Tomar) 175 Pilgrimages
Order of Christ 176, 328 Monserrate 158 Bom Jesus do Monte 276–7
Ourém 183 Monte Palace Tropical Gardens Fátima 183
Ourique, Battle of 43 356 Nossa Senhora da Peneda 271
Outdoor activities 30–31 Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga Nossa Senhora dos Remédios
Ovar 207 (Lisbon) 92 (Lamego) 255
Palácio Fronteira (Lisbon) 134–5 Pinhão 263
P Palácio Nacional de Queluz Pinto, Fernão Mendes 208
Piódão 210
154–5
Paço see Palaces Parque Arqueológico do Vale do Pius XI, Pope 70
Padrão dos Descobrimentos Côa (Torre de Moncorvo) 260 Planetário Calouste Gulbenkian
(Lisbon) 114–15 Parque da Pena (Sintra) 149 (Lisbon) 113
Paiva Walkways 206–7 Parque das Nações (Lisbon) 33, Pombal 183
Palaces 132 Pombal, Marquês de 45, 75, 78, 84,
Antigo Paço Episcopal (Braga) Parque do Monteiro-Mor 87, 117, 198, 200, 254, 325, 338
275 (Lisbon) 135 monument 128
Monserrate 158 Parque Eduardo VII (Lisbon) 128, Museu Marquês de Pombal
Paço dos Duques (Guimarães) 129 (Pombal) 183
278–9 Parque Florestal da Serra da Boa tomb 117
Paço Ducal (Vila Viçosa) Viagem (Figueira da Foz) 207 Ponta Delgada 365, 368
300–301 Parque Temático da Madeira bars and cafés 371
Paço Episcopal (Porto) 236 (Santana) 358–9 restaurants 373
Palácio da Bolsa (Porto) 238 Portugal dos Pequinitos Ponta Ruiva 328
Palacio da Pena 11, 149, 152–3 (Coimbra) 32, 199 Ponte 25 de Abril (Lisbon) 35, 47,
Palácio de Belém (Lisbon) 112, Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro 356 120, 130, 145
119 see also National parks; Nature Ponte da Barca 281
Palácio de São Bento (Lisbon) 99 reserves Ponte de Dom Luís I (Porto) 232–3
Palácio dos Biscainhos (Braga) Parliament (Lisbon) 99 Ponte de Lima 281
274–5 Passports 378 bars 280
Palácio dos Duques de Cadaval Paúl da Serra 360 hotels 279
(Évora) 298 Pedro I 170, 171, 304 Portagem 302
Palácio Foz (Lisbon) 86 Pedro II 150 Portimão 330
Palácio Fronteira (Lisbon) 134–5 Pedro III 155 Porto 10, 36–7, 225, 228–43
Palácio Nacional da Ajuda Pedro IV (Pedro I of Brazil) 46, 83, bars 235
(Lisbon) 117 154, 236 hotels 237
Palácio Nacional de Mafra 156 Pegadas dos Dinossáurios 184 itineraries 16, 226
Palácio Nacional de Queluz 154–5 Penafiel 252 map 230–31
Palácio Nacional de Sintra 18, 39, Penamacor 216 public transport 380, 382
150–51 Pena, Palácio Nacional da 11, 152–3 restaurants 241
Quinta da Regaleira (Sintra) 148 Peneda-Gerês, Parque Nacional da shopping 239
Palmela 160–61 27, 30, 270–71 walk 242–3
Parks and gardens Penedono 212 Porto Covo 315
Bacalhôa Buddha Eden Gardens Penela 208–9 restaurants 314
180–81 Peniche 178 Porto de Mós 182
Buçaco 202–3 Península de Tróia 145, 162 Porto Moniz 362
Casa de Mateus (near Vila Real) Peninsular War 45, 46, 167, 184, Porto Santo 28, 349, 363
250–51 189, 191, 202, 212, 213, 215, Portugal dos Pequinitos (Coimbra)
Jardim Botânico (Coimbra) 198 252, 253, 312 32, 199
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Portugal’s Islands 340–75 Reserva Natural da Serra da Santarém 167, 186
Azores, the 345, 364–75 Malcata 216 restaurants 186
ferries 383 Reserva Natural do Estuário do Santiago do Cacém 312
itinerary 346–7 Sado 163 Santo António à Sé (Lisbon) 70
Madeira 344, 348–63 Restaurants Santo António (St Anthony of
map 342–3 Alentejo 299, 304, 314 Padua) 70, 71
Port wine 13, 234, 262 Algarve 324, 326, 332 Santo Tirso 251
Port Country Tour 264–5 Azores, the 373 São Bento Station (Porto) 39, 237,
Index Postal services 385 Beiras, the 213, 217 São Francisco (Évora) 298
243
Solar do Vinho do Porto 99
Douro and Tras-os-Montes 253
Pousadas 24 Estremadura and Ribatejo 183, São Gonçalo 253
Praça Afonso de Albuquerque 186 São João Baptista (Tomar) 175
(Lisbon) 119 Lisbon: Alfama 71 São Jorge (Azores) 372
Praça da Figueira (Lisbon) 84, 87 Lisbon: Bairro Alto and Estrela 101 São Martinho do Porto 28, 180
Praça do Comercio (Lisbon) 78–9 Lisbon: Baixa and Avenida 84 São Miguel (Azores) 365, 368–9
Praça do Império (Lisbon) 118 Lisbon: Belém 115 hotels 375
Praça do Príncipe Real (Lisbon) 99 Lisbon: Beyond the Centre 133 restaurants 373
Praça dos Restauradores (Lisbon) Lisbon Coast 159, 162 São Pedro (Faro) 324
82, 86 Madeira 359 São Roque (Lisbon) 96, 103
Praça Marquês de Pombal (Lisbon) Minho 283 São Vicente de Fora (Lisbon) 66
128 Porto 241 São Vicente de Fora polyptych
Praia da Bordeira 34 see also Food and drink (Gonçalves) 94, 95
Praia da Marina 333 Ria de Aveiro 195, 207 São Vicente (Madeira) 361
Praia da Oura 332 Ribatejo see Estremadura and Scooter hire 383
Praia da Rocha 330 Ribatejo Seafood 13, 22, 29
Praia de Arrifana 326 Ribeira Brava 362 Sebastião I 44, 108, 109, 150, 213
Praia de Mira 206 Ribeira (Porto) 37, 232–3 Sé (Braga) 274
Praia de Monte Clérigo 326 Ribeiro Frio 31, 359 Sé (Évora) 296, 297
Praia de Odeceixe 326 Rodrigues, Amália 67, 68, 129, 135 Sé (Faro) 322
Praia de São Rafael 332 Romans 42, 84, 209, 279 Sé (Funchal) 352
Praia do Castelejo 327 Romarias 25, 40–41 Seixal 361
Praia Fluvial de Portagem 302 Ronaldo, Cristiano 33, 135, 355 Sé (Lisbon) 70–71
Prices Rossio (Lisbon) 82, 83, 87 Sé Nova (Coimbra) 198
average daily spend 378 Rossio Station (Lisbon) 86 Sé (Porto) 236, 242
public transport 380 Rua Augusta (Lisbon) 84 Sernancelhe 212
Public holidays 379 Rules of the road 380, 383 Serpa 35, 310
Public transport 382 hotels 311
Museu de Carris (Lisbon) 33, 131 S Serra da Arrábida 129, 160, 161
prices 380 Serra da Estrela 191, 204–5, 212,
Puppets, Museu da Marioneta Sabugal 215 214
(Lisbon) 98 Sado estuary 163 Serra da Lapa 212
Safety Serra de Açor 210
Q personal security 384 Serra de Lousã 208
travel safety advice 378
Serra de Monchique 326–7
Queirós, Eça de 102, 200 Sagres 319, 328 Serra de Montemuro 252
Queluz, Palácio Nacional de 154–5 Saint see Santa; Santo; São; St Serra de São Mamede 302, 303
Quinta da Regaleira (Sintra) 148 Salazar, António 46–7, 69, 118, 128 Serra de Sintra 145, 148, 149, 152,
Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro 356 Sancho I 95, 160, 196, 248, 308, 156
331 Serra do Barroso 256
R Sancho II 303, 304, 306 Serra do Marão 254
Sesimbra 145, 160
Sanfins de Ferreira (near Santo
Rail travel see Train travel Tirso) 251 hotels 161
Reasons to Love Portugal 10–13 Santa Clara-a-Nova (Coimbra) restaurants 162
Reconquista 43, 184 198–9 Setúbal 162–3
Redondo 307 Santa Clara-a-Velha (Coimbra) 199 Sé Velha (Coimbra) 196–7
Refunds, VAT 385 Santa Cruz (Coimbra) 196 Seven Years’ War 259
Rego, Paula 20, 115, 125 Santa Cruz (Flores) 375 Sheepdogs, Serra da Estrela 205
Reis, Carlos 186 Santa Engrácia (Lisbon) 67 Shopping 37
Relvas, Carlos 187 Santa Isabel see Isabel of Aragon Algarve 339
Relvas, José 187 Santa Joana 195 Évora 297
Rembrandt 83, 124 Santa Maria (Azores) 365, 370 Lisbon 83, 131
Reserva Natural da Ria Formosa 26 Santana 358–9 Porto 239
Reserva Natural das Dunas de São restaurants 359 see also Markets
Jacinto 195 Santar 211 Silva, Nini Andrade 355
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Silves 331 Torre de Belém (Lisbon) 110–11 Walks (cont.)
Sines 313 Torre de Moncorvo 260 A Short Walk: Belém (Lisbon)
Sintra 148–51 Torre de Ulisses (Lisbon) 65 118–19
hotels 149, 157 Torre dos Clérigos (Porto) 239 A Short Walk: Porto’s Cathedral
map 149 Torres Novas 186 District 242–3
Palácio Nacional de Sintra 18, 39, Torres Vedras 189 A Short Walk: Restauradores
150–51 Tourism 47, 319 (Lisbon) 86–7
restaurants 159 Tours, village 25 see also Hiking
Sítio 181 Train travel 380–81 Wamba, King 216
Smoking 384 Douro valley 254, 263 Warhol, Andy 115
Soares dos Reis, António 20 Trams 34 War of Restoration 45, 134, 305,
Solar do Vinho do Porto 99 Trancoso 213 306, 311
Sortelha 215 Tras-os-Montes see Douro and Praça dos Restauradores
hotels 217 Tras-os-Montes (Lisbon) 82, 86
restaurants 215 Travel War of the Two Brothers 46, 241,
Sousa Cardoso, Amadeo de 125 getting around 380–83 306
Southern Portugal 284–339 travel safety advice 378 Water, drinking 384
Alentejo 29, 288, 292–317 Trilho dos Pescadores 29 Waterfalls 27
Algarve 29, 289, 318–39 Tróia 162 Watersports 33
food and drink 22 Websites 385
itinerary 290–91 U Wellington, Duke of 46, 184, 191,
map 286–7 213, 234
Souto de Moura, Edouardo 20 Universities Lines of Torres Vedras 167, 189
Souza-Cardoso, Amadeo de 253 Coimbra University 200–201 Wetlands 26
Spanish rule 44–5 Évora University 298 Whaling 358, 373, 375
Spas, 180, 209, 257, 303, 327, 369 Wi-Fi 385
Specific needs, travellers with 379 V Wildlife
Sporting Lisbon 135 Birds in Ria Formosa 335
St Vincent 66, 71, 329 Vaccinations 379 Oceanário de Lisboa 33, 132–3
Surfing 12, 31, 178, 180, 181, 326, Válega 207 Sado estuary 163
329 Valença do Minho 282 Serra da Estrela sheepdogs 205
Swimming 31 Vasco da Gama Bridge (Lisbon) 130, see also National parks; Nature
132 reserves
T VAT 385 Wine
Alentejo 293, 308, 310
Viana do Alentejo 310–11
Tagus River Viano do Castelo 272–3 Beiras 191, 211
ferries 128, 382 Vidigueira 310 festivals 161
Ponte 25 de Abril (Lisbon) 130 Vila do Bispo 327 Madeira 352, 360
Tap water 384 Vila do Conde 283 Mateus Rosé 250
Tarouquela 252 restaurants 283 Museu do Vinho (Terceira) 371
Tavira 336–7 Vila do Porto (Santa Maria) 370 Museu Rural do Vinho (Cartaxo)
bars 336 Vila do Touro 215 189
hotels 329 Vila Franca de Xira 188 Porca de Murça 258
restaurants 332 Vilamoura 332–3 Port Country Tour 264–5
Taxes 385 Vila Nova da Gaia (Porto) 234–5 Quinta da Avelada (near
Taxis 382 map 235 Penafiel) 252
Teatro Nacional de São Carlos Vila Nova de Milfontes 314 Quinta da Pacheca (Cambres)
(Lisbon) 97 hotels 311 254, 257
Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II Vila Real 256 tastings 157
(Lisbon) 83, 87 Vila Real de Santo António 338 The Story of Port 262
Teixeira Lopes, Antonio 235 Vila Viçosa 300–301 vinho verde 281
Teleférico de Gaia (Porto) 234, 235 Villages 24–5, 35 see also Port wine
Telheiro 328 Visas 378 World of Discoveries (Porto) 236–7
Terceira (Azores) 365, 370–71 Viseu 191, 211 World Exhibition (Lisbon, 1940)
Time Out Market (Mercado da restaurants 213 113, 118
Ribeira) (Lisbon) 37, 101 Visigoths 43, 216 World War II 203, 370
Time zone 384
Tipping 384 W Z
Toboggan (Monte) 32, 356, 357
Tomar 167, 174–7 Walks Zambujeira do Mar 315
Convento de Cristo 176–7 A Short Walk: Alfama (Lisbon) Zarco, João Gonçalves 349, 353,
hotels 179 72–3 354, 355, 357, 362
map 175 A Short Walk: Bairro Alto and Zêzere, River 167, 184, 185, 205
Torre 204, 205 Chiado (Lisbon) 102–3 Zip-wires 31, 339
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PHRASE BOOK MAKING A TELEPHONE CALL kree-uh fuh-zehr
I’d like to place an
Queria fazer
international call. uma chamada oo-muh sha-
IN EMERGENCY internacional. mah-duh in-ter-

na-see-oo-nahl’
Help! Socorro! soo-koh-roo a local call. uma chamada oo-muh sha-mah-
Stop! Páre! pahr’ local. duh loo-kahl’
Call a doctor! Chame um shahm’ ooñ Can I leave Posso deixar uma poh-soo day-
médico! meh-dee-koo a message? mensagem? shar oo-muh
Call an ambulance! Chame uma shahm’ oo-muh meñ-sah-jayñ
ambulância! añ-boo-lañ-
see-uh SHOPPING
Call the police! Chame a shahm’uh How much Quanto kwañ-too koosh-
polícia! poo-lee-see-uh does this cost? custa isto? tuh eesh-too
Call the fire brigade! Chame os shahm’ oosh I would like … Queria … kree-uh
bombeiros! bom-bay-roosh I’m just Estou só a ver shtoh sohuh vehr
Where is the Há um telefone ah ooñ te-le-fon’ looking. obrigado/a. o-bree-gah-
nearest telephone? aqui perto? uh-keepehr-too doo/uh
Where is the Onde é o ond’ eh oo ohsh- Do you take Aceita cartões uh-say-tuh
nearest hospital? hospital mais pee-tahl’ mysh credit cards? de crédito? kar-toinsh de
próximo? pro-see-moo kreh-dee-too
COMMUNICATION ESSENTIALS What time A que horas uh kee oh-rash
ah-bre
do you open?
abre?
Yes Sim seeñ What time A que horas uh kee oh-rash
No Não nowñ do you close? fecha? fay-shuh
Please Por favor/ poor fuh-vor This one Este ehst’
Faz favor fash fuh-vor That one Esse ehss’
Thank you Obrigado/da o-bree-gah- expensive caro kah-roo
doo/duh cheap barato buh-rah-too
Excuse me Desculpe dish-koolp’ size (clothes/shoes) tamanho ta-man-yoo
Hello Olá oh-lah white branco brañ-koo
Goodbye Adeus a-deh-oosh black preto preh-too
Good morning Bom-dia boñ dee-uh red vermelho ver-mehl-yoo
Good afternoon Boa-tarde boh-uh tard’ yellow amarelo uh-muh-reh-loo
Good night Boa-noite boh-uh noyt’ green verde vehrd’
Yesterday Ontem oñ-tayñ blue azul uh-zool’
Today Hoje ohj’
Tomorrow Amanhã ah-mañ-yañ TYPES OF SHOP
Here Aqui uh-kee antique shop loja de loh-juh de añ-tee-
There Ali uh-lee antiguidades gwee-dahd’sh
What? O quê? oo keh bakery padaria pah-duh-ree-uh
Which? Qual? kwahl’ bank banco bañ-koo
When? Quando? kwañ-doo bookshop livraria lee-vruh-ree-uh
Why? Porquê? poor-keh butcher talho tah-lyoo
Where? Onde? oñd’ cake shop pastelaria pash-te-luh-ree-uh
chemist farmácia far-mah-see-uh
USEFUL PHRASES fishmonger peixaria pay-shuh-ree-uh
How are you? Como está? koh-moo shtah hairdresser cabeleireiro kab’-lay-ray-roo
Very well, Bem, bayñ o-bree-gah- market mercado mehr-kah-doo
thank you. obrigado/da. doo/duh newsagent quiosque kee-yohsk’
Pleased to Encantado/a. eñ-kañ-tah-doo/ post office correios koo-ray-oosh
meet you. duh shoe shop sapataria suh-puh-tuh-ree-uh
See you soon. Até logo. uh-teh loh-goo supermarket supermercado soo-pehr-mer-

kah-doo

That’s fine. Está bem. shtah bayñ tobacconist tabacaria tuh-buh-kuh-ree-uh
Where is/are …? Onde ond’ shtah/
está/estão … ? shtowñ travel agency agência de uh-jen-see-uh de
How far is it to …? A que distância uh kee dish-tañ- viagens vee-ah-jayñsh
fica … ? see-uh fee-kuh SIGHTSEEING
Which Como se vai koh-moo seh vy cathedral sé seh
way to …? para … ? puh-ruh church igreja ee-gray-juh
Do you speak Fala inglês? fah-luh eeñ-
English? glehsh garden jardim jar-deeñ
library
biblioteca
bee-blee-oo-teh-kuh
I don’t understand. Não compreendo. nowñ kom-pree- museum museu moo-zeh-oo
eñ-doo tourist infor- posto de posh-too d’
Could you speak Pode falar pohd’ fuh-lar mation office turismo too-reesh-moo
more slowly mais devagar mysh d’-va-gar closed for fechado para fe-sha-doo puh-ruh
please? por favor? poor fuh-vor holidays férias feh-ree-ash
I’m sorry. Desculpe. dish-koolp’ bus station estação de shta-sowñ d’ oh-
USEFUL WORDS railway station autocarros too-kah-roosh
shta-sowñ d’
estação de
big grande grañd’ comboios koñ-boy-oosh
small pequeno pe-keh-noo
hot quente keñt’ STAYING IN A HOTEL
cold frio free-oo Do you have a Tem um tayñ ooñ kwar-
good bom boñ vacant room? quarto livre? too leevr’
bad mau mah-oo room with um quarto com ooñ kwar-too
quite a lot/enough bastante bash-tañt’ a bath casa de banho koñ kah-zuh
well bem bayñ d’ bañ-yoo
open aberto a-behr-too shower duche doosh
closed fechado fe-shah-doo single room quarto kwar-too een-dee-
left esquerda shkehr-duh individual vee-doo-ahl’
right direita dee-ray-tuh double room quarto de casal kwar-too d’ kuh-
straight on em frente ayñ freñt’ zahl’
near perto pehr-too twin room quarto com duas kwar-too koñ doo-
far longe loñj’ camas ash kah-mash
up para cima pur-ruh see-muh porter porteiro poor-tay-roo
down para baixo pur-ruh buy-shoo key chave shahv’
early cedo seh-doo I have a Tenho um tayñ-yoo ooñ
late tarde tard’ reservation. quarto kwar-too-
entrance entrada eñ-trah-duh reservado. re-ser-vah-doo
exit saída sa-ee-duh
toilets casa de banho kah-zuh d’ bañ-yoo EATING OUT
more mais mysh Have you got Tem uma mesa tayñ oo-muh meh-
less menos meh-noosh a table for …? para …? zuh puh-ruh
396
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EW Phrasebook template v1 – 29th August 2018
Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Gothic Pro

I want to Quero reservar keh-roo re-zehr-var gelo jeh-loo ice
reserve a table. uma mesa. oo-muh meh-zuh goraz goo-rash bream
The bill A conta uh kohn-tuh grelhado grel-yah-doo grilled
please. por favor/ poor fuh-vor/ iscas eesh-kash marinated liver
faz favor. fash fuh-vor lagosta luh-gohsh-tuh lobster
I am a Sou Soh ve-je-tuh- laranja luh-rañ-juh orange
vegetarian. vegetariano/a. ree-ah-noo/uh leite layt’ milk
Waiter! Por favor!/ poor fuh-vor limão lee-mowñ lemon
Faz favor! fash fuh-vor limonada lee-moo-nah-duh lemonade
the menu a lista uh leesh-tuh linguado leeñ-gwah-doo sole
fixed-price a ementa uh ee-mehñ-tuh lulas loo-lash squid
menu turística too-reesh-tee-kuh maçã muh-sañ apple
wine list a lista de uh leesh-tuh de manteiga mañ-tay-guh butter
vinhos veeñ-yoosh mariscos muh-reesh-koosh seafood
glass um copo ooñ koh-poo meia-de-leite may-uh-d’ layt’ white coffee
bottle uma garrafa oo-muh guh-rah-fuh ostras osh-trash oysters
half bottle meia-garrafa may-uh guh-rah-fuh ovos oh-voosh eggs
knife uma faca oo-muh fah-kuh pão powñ bread
fork um garfo ooñ gar-foo pastel pash-tehl’ cake
spoon uma colher oo-muh kool-yair pato pah-too duck
plate um prato ooñ prah-too peixe paysh’ fish
napkin um guardanapo ooñgoo-ar-duh- peixe-espada paysh’-shpah-duh scabbard fish
nah-poo pimenta pee-meñ-tuh pepper
breakfast pequeno-almoço pe-keh-noo- polvo pohl’-voo octopus
ahl-moh-soo porco por-coo pork
lunch almoço ahl-moh-soo queijo kay-joo cheese
dinner jantar jan-tar sal sahl’ salt
cover couvert koo-vehr salada suh-lah-duh salad
starter entrada eñ-trah-duh salsichas sahl-see-shash sausages
main course prato prah-too sandes sañ-desh sandwich
principal prin-see-pahl’ santola sañ-toh-luh spider crab
dish of the day prato do dia prah-too doo sopa soh-puh soup
dee-uh sumo soo-moo juice
set dish combinado koñ-bee-nah-doo tamboril tañ-boo-ril’ monkfish
half portion meia-dose may-uh doh-se tarte tart’ pie/cake
dessert sobremesa soh-bre-meh-zuh tomate too-maht’ tomato
rare mal passado mahl’puh-sah-doo torrada too-rah-duh toast
medium médio meh-dee-oo tosta tohsh-tuh toasted sandwich
well done bem passado bayñ puh-sah-doo vinagre vee-nah-gre vinegar
MENU DECODER vinho branco veeñ-yoo brañ-koo white wine
abacate uh-buh-kaht’ avocado vinho tinto veeñ-yoo teeñ-too red wine
vee-teh-luh
vitela
veal
açorda uh-sor-duh bread-based stew
(often seafood) NUMBERS
açúcar uh-soo-kar sugar 0 zero zeh-roo
água mineral ah-gwuh mineral water 1 um ooñ
mee-ne-rahl’ 2 dois doysh
(com gás) koñ gas sparkling 3 três tresh
(sem gás) sayñ gas still 4 quatro kwa-troo
alho al-yoo garlic 5 cinco seeñ-koo
alperce ahl’-pehrce apricot 6 seis saysh
amêijoas uh-may-joo-ash clams
ananás uh-nuh-nahsh pineapple 7 sete set’
arroz uh-rohsh rice 8 9 oito oy-too
nove
nov’
assado uh-sah-doo baked 10 dez desh
atum uh-tooñ tuna
aves ah-vesh poultry 11 onze oñz’
azeite uh-zayt’ olive oil 12 doze doz’
azeitonas uh-zay-toh-nash olives 13 treze trez’
catorze
ka-torz’
14
bacalhau buh-kuh-lyow dried, salted cod
banana buh-nah-nuh banana 15 quinze keeñz’
batatas buh-tah-tash potatoes 16 dezasseis de-zuh-saysh
batatas fritas buh-tah-tash french fries 17 dezassete de-zuh-set’
free-tash 18 dezoito de-zoy-too
batido buh-tee-doo milk-shake 19 dezanove de-zuh-nov’
bica bee-kuh espresso 20 vinte veent’
bife beef steak 21 vinte e um veen-tee-ooñ
bolacha boo-lah-shuh biscuit 30 trinta treeñ-tuh
bolo boh-loo cake 40 quarenta kwa-reñ-tuh
borrego boo-reh-goo lamb 50 cinquenta seen-kweñ-tuh
caça kah-ssuh game 60 sessenta se-señ-tuh
café kuh-feh coffee 70 setenta se-teñ-tuh
camarões kuh-muh-roysh large prawns 80 oitenta oy-teñ-tuh
caracóis kuh-ruh-koysh snails 90 noventa noo-veñ-tuh
caranguejo kuh-rañ-gay-joo crab 100 cem sayñ
carne karn’ meat 101 cento e um señ-too-ee-ooñ
cataplana kuh-tuh-plah-nuh sealed wok used 102 cento e dois señ-too ee doysh
to steam dishes 200 duzentos doo-zeñ-toosh
cebola se-boh-luh onion 300 trezentos tre-zeñ-toosh
cerveja sehr-vay-juh beer 400 quatrocentos kwa-troo-señ-toosh
chá shah tea 500 quinhentos kee-nyeñ-toosh
cherne shern’ stone bass 700 setecentos set’-señ-toosh
chocolate shoh-koh-laht’ chocolate 900 novecentos nov’-señ-toosh
chocos shoh-koosh cuttlefish 1,000 mil meel’
chouriço shoh-ree-soo red, spicy sausage
churrasco shoo-rash-coo on the spit TIME
cogumelos koo-goo-meh-loosh mushrooms one minute um minuto ooñ mee-noo-too
cozido koo-zee-doo boiled one hour uma hora oo-muh oh-ruh
enguias eñ-gee-ash eels half an hour meia-hora may-uh-oh-ruh
fiambre fee-añbr’ ham Monday segunda-feira se-goon-duh-fay-ruh
figado fee-guh-doo liver Tuesday terça-feira ter-sa-fay-ruh
frango frañ-goo chicken Wednesday quarta-feira kwar-ta-fay-ruh
frito free-too fried Thursday quinta-feira keen-ta-fay-ruh
fruta froo-tuh fruit Friday sexta-feira say-shta-fay-ruh
gambas gam-bash prawns Saturday sábado sah-ba-doo
gelado je-lah-doo ice cream Sunday domingo doo-meen-go
397
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 44cla; Alexander Nikiforov 359br; nobleIMAGES
8-9; Pacific Press 273cr; Sofia Pereira /
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398



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EW Acknowledgements v1– 28th August 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text,
Soho Gothic Pro

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158tl; TasFoto 233tr; Miguel Angel Morales Hermo © Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, Lisboa
111cl; Stefano Valeri 81cl; Venemama 253b; Instituto dos Museus e da Conservação - MC:
Wastesoul 100tl; Anne M. Fearon-wood 250cr; Paulo Alexandrino 92clb, 93tl, 93tr, 93cla, 94bl,
Zts 66-7t, 84bl, 111br, 116b, 123tc, 156b, 161t, 95tr, 95clb.
174bl, 232cra, 236tl..
Museu da Marioneta: Andre é Boto 98bc.
Eduardo Teixeira de Sousa: 282b.
Museu de Arte Sacra do Funchal: Arquivo MASF /
Getty Images: 500px / Paulo Roque 272; Mauricio Our Lady of “Amparo” Attributed to Jan Gossart
Abreu 50-1, 92-3b, 185t, 188tl, 207b, 248clb, named Mabuse and his followers, Flanders,
306br; AFP 46br, / Eric Feferberg 47bc, / Francisco Antwerp, 1543, Oil painting on oak wood,
Leong 41tr; Alex Robinson Photography 29tr; J.M.F. provenance: Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Amparo
Almeida 41br; Apic / Retired 46cr; AWL Images / – Cathedral of Funchal 21cr.
Mauricio Abreu 55bl, 88-9, 204-5t, / Alan Copson
273cra; Jose A. Bernat Bacete 346-7ca; ullstein Museu do Fado: José Frade / EGEAC 68tl.
bild 214tr; Carlos Carvalho 29br; Corbis / Horacio
Villalobos 40cr, 47br; Culture Club 184tc; DAE / G. Picfair.com: Alberto Novo 270-1b; Carlos Sanchez
Dagli Orti 44tl, 44-5t, / W. BUSS 185bl; DEA Picture Pereyra 225t, 244-5; Inácio Joaquim Martins Pires
Library 46bl; Reinhard Dirscherl 33br; Shaun Egan 288, 292-3; Tiago Sousa 196t; Pedro Venâncio
211b; Terry Eggers 8clb; Herve Gloaguen 46-7ca; 141t, 166-7.
Pedro Gomes 41cl; Historic Map Works LLC
and Osher Map Library 42t; Maya Karkalicheva Robert Harding Picture Library: Neale Clark
35cla; Moment / Rui Almeida Fotografia 203cla; 354-5b; Neil Farrin 322-3t; Frank Fell 352-3t; G&M
MyLoupe 64bc; NurPhoto 36-7b; Octavio Passos Therin-Weise 37tr; Andre Goncalves 309b; Oliver
355tr; PEC Photo 73tl; PHAS 42bc; Photo Wintzen 284-5.
Enthusiast 308tl; ptlapse .pt 263br; Hans Georg
Roth 163bl; Sylvain Sonnet 66bl, 71b, 72bl; Shutterstock: hidalgophotographer 141cb, 190-1.

399



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SuperStock: age fotostock / André Gonçalves
296t, / Cfantunes 214bl, / Eduardo Grund 152bl, /
George Munday 46tl, / Ken Welsh 249fbr, /
Laurent Marolleau 248bl, 248bc, 249bl, / Tolo
Balaguer 298bl, / Imag3s 199b; Hemis / Pierre Main Contributors Matthew Hancock and
Jaques 124-5b; imageBROKER / Hans Blosseyo Mandy Tomlin, Andy Gregory, Martin Symington
201tr; Mauritius 200tr. Senior Editor Ankita Awasthi Tröger
Senior Designer Owen Bennett
Front flap: Alamy Stock Photo: Cro Magnon cla; Project Editor Rebecca Flynn
Dreamstime.com: Alexander Nikiforov bl, Sean Project Art Editors Stuti Tiwari Bhatia,
Pavone cb; iStockphoto: 101ArtStudio tc; Vinita Venugopal, Ankita Sharma,
Picfair: Inácio Joaquim Martins Pires br; Hansa Babra, Bharti Karakoti, Dan Bailey
Robert Harding Picture Library: G&M Design Assistant William Robinson
Therin-Weise cra. Factchecker Joana Taborda
Editors Elspeth Beidas, Emma Grundy Haigh
Cover images: Lucy Sienkowska, Jackie Staddon,
Front and Spine: Dreamstime.com: Sean Pavone. Rachel Thompson
Back: Alamy Stock Photo: Jan Wlodarczyk tr; Proofreader Christine Stroyan
Dreamstime.com: Sean Pavone bc, cla; Indexer Helen Peters
iStockphoto.com: Visual_Intermezzo c. Senior Picture Researcher Ellen Root
Picture Research Sumita Khatwani,
Sarah Stewart-Richardson, Harriet Whitaker
For further information see www.dkimages.com Illustrators Richard Draper, Paul Guest,
Stephen Gyapay, Claire Littlejohn,
Maltings Partnership, Isidoro González-Adalid
Cabezas/Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanisco S.L.,
Paul Weston, John Woodcock, Martin Woodward
Cartographic Editor James Macdonald
Cartography Mohammad Hassan,
Suresh Kumar
Jacket Designers Bess Daly, Maxine Pedliham
Jacket Picture Research Susie Peachey
Senior DTP Designer Jason Little
DTP Coordinator George Nimmo
Producer Igrain Roberts
Managing Editor Hollie Teague
Art Director Maxine Pedliham
Publishing Director Georgina Dee



First edition 1997
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Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
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of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, ISSN: 1542 1554
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