(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

The huge domed 1930, and has served as the
BasÍlica da Estrela, city’s main fruit and vegetable
which is proudly set market ever since. It was
rejuvenated in 2014, by
on a hill overlooking incorporating the many food EAT
the west of the city, and drink stalls of the world’s
is one of Lisbon’s first Time Out Market, which A Brasileira
most remarkable now occupy most of the The intellectuals who
cavernous central hall.
made this 1905 café
land marks. Stake your claim on one famous are gone, but its
of the communal benches Art Deco interior and
and sample the diverse array bar filled with tempting
Castro’s extra ordinary nativity of produce on offer from pastries remain a draw.
scene, com posed of over 500 some of Lisbon’s best-known  M6 ⌂ Rua Garrett 120
cork-and-terracotta figures. food outlets (including § 213 469 541
To see it, ask the sacristan. Henrique Sá Pessoa from ¡¡¡
Be sure to climb the Michelin-starred restaurant
dome’s steep stone steps Alma). You can enjoy anything
to access the flat roof above from burgers and sushi to fine Páteo
the Basílica, where you’ll cheeses, pastéis de nata and Occupying a covered
find breathtaking views of ice cream, while champagne patio inside a former
the western city – and down bars and wine, beer or juice monastery, this lovely
into the church below. stalls cater to the thirsty. space specializes in
There are further bars quality fish and
and restaurants around the seafood, prepared by
outside of the market and chef José Avillez.
e \-= on the first floor, which has  M6 ⌂ Bairro do
Time Out Market a music venue for concerts. Avillez, 18 Rua Nova da
(Mercado da Ribeira) The concept has proved Trindade § 215 830 290
overwhelmingly successful – ¡¡¡
 M7 ⌂ Avenida 24 de
Julho # 10am–midnight attracting over three million
Sun–Wed, 10am–2am visitors a year – and Time Out Cervejaria Trindade
has subse quently opened
Thu–Sat; fish, fruit and Famed for its beautiful
vegetable market: 6am– similar markets in the US. azulejos, this 1830s
2pm Mon–Sat ∑ timeout beer hall serves tasty
market.com seafood and steak.
The Time Out Market’s
Lisbon’s historic Mercado da cavernous food court,  M6 ⌂ Rua Nova
Ribeira opened for business in thronging with visitors da Trindade 20
§ 213 423 506
¡¡¡





























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A SHORT WALK
BAIRRO ALTO

AND CHIADO



EXPERIENCE Bairro Alto and Estrela The Bairro Alto (high quarter) is a fascinating plot of R U A D O N O R T E
Distance 1 km (0.6 miles) Nearest station
Baixa-Chiado metro Time 15 minutes

cobbled streets adjacent to the Carmo and Chiado
areas. Since the 1980s, this has been Lisbon’s best-
known nightlife zone, with countless small bars and
restaurants alongside the older casas de fado.
While more modern buildings have also
sprung up in recent years, the quarter remains
a lively, authentic part of the city to wander.
In contrast, the Chiado presents a more
manicured façade, filled as it is with elegant
shops and old-style cafés that extend down
from Praça Luís de Camões towards Rua do R U A DA S G ÁV E A S
Carmo and the Baixa. Major renovation
work has taken place here since a fire
in 1988 (p97) destroyed many of
the original buildings.


Praça Luís de Camões



Tavares, at No 37 Rua da
Misericórdia, first opened as a
café in 1784 and is today an R U A D O A L E C R I M
elegant restaurant with fine
early-20th-century interiors.
Largo do Chiado,
This statue of realist novelist flanked by the
Eça de Queirós (1845–1900), churches of Loreto L . D O C H I A D O R U A G A R R E T T
by Teixeira Lopes, was and Nossa Senhora T R AV E S S A D O C A R M O
erected in 1903. da Encarnação


Chiado
A Brasileira,
a historic café on
Largo do Chiado adorned
with gilded mirrors

Rua Garrett,
the Chiado’s main
shopping street

Diners seated along the
patterned walls of the
Cervejaria Trindade
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Gothic Pro, Soho Pro

The Museu de São Roque
houses an interesting
exhibition of religious
artifacts and explains
the history of the church BAIRRO ALTO
next door. AND ESTRELA


FINISH Locator Map
For more detail see p90
R U A D O N O R T E 16th-century church whose
Igreja de São Roque, a
R U A DA M I S E R I CÓ R D I A opulent mosaics and
interiors are adorned with
semiprecious stones



R U A DA S G ÁV E A S R U A N O VA DA T R I N DA D E Cervejaria Trindade, a
popular beer hall and
restaurant decorated
with azulejo panels.




Teatro da Trindade

Largo Rafael Bordalo
Pinheiro, where
the tiled façade
of a house dating
from 1864
features elaborate
allegorical figures
R U A D A T R I N D A D E
The delicate pillars
L A R G O D O Igreja do Carmo
and arcades of the
C A R M O

T R AV E S S A D O C A R M O
Igreja do Carmo, a Carmelite
L . D O C H I A D O R U A G A R R E T T
church whose graceful skeletal
arches stand as a reminder of the
C . D O S A C R A M E N T O START archaeological museum.
earthquake of 1755. The chancel and
main body of the church house an


Elevador de Santa Justa (p80),
an ornate street lift offering
direct access from the Baixa
to the Bairro Alto district
Shops in Rua do Carmo,
restored and renewed 0 metres 50 N
after the devastating
Chiado fire 0 yards 50
103



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Pro, Soho Pro

The ornate arches of the cloisters at the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos




































BELÉM




Perched as it is at the mouth of the Tagus river,
where the caravels launched their voyages, Belém
is inextricably linked with Portugal’s golden Age
of Discovery. When Manuel I came to power in
1495 he reaped the profits of those heady days of
expansion, using it to build grandiose monuments
and churches that mirrored the spirit of the time.
Two of the finest examples of this exuberant and
exotic Manueline style of architecture are the
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the Torre de Belém.
Following the earthquake of 1775, José I
installed his court in a series of tents in Belém’s
hills, the site of the Palácio Nacional da Ajuda,
where it would remain for nearly three decades.
This move attracted commerce to the area and
Belém continued to thrive. The 19th-century
main street has largely resisted modernization,
and the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, celebrated
as the birthplace of Lisbon’s iconic custard tart,
can still be visited at its original site.
105



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BELÉM
Must Sees w MAAT – Museu de Art, B AIRR O AIRR O
B
1 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos Arquitetura e Tecnologia E S TRADA DOS MARCOS E S TRADA DOS MARCOS D A A JUD A JUD A
D A A
2 Torre de Belém e Ermida de São Jerónimo
r Igreja da Memória
Experience More t Jardim Botânico da Ajuda
3 Museu Nacional dos Coches y Palácio Nacional da Ajuda BELÉM BELÉM
4 Palácio de Belém
R. DO SITIO AO CASALINHO DA AJU DA
5 Jardim Botânico Tropical Eat
6 Museu Nacional de Arqueologia 1 Antiga Confeitaria de Belém RUA PRO F E S S O R C I D DOS SA N T O S
7 Planetário Calouste Gulbenkian Stay R. DO SITIO AO CASALINHO DA AJU DA
8 Museu de Marinha 2 Jerónimos 8 P ar que daP ar que da
RUA PRO F E S S O R C I D DOS SA N T O S
9 Centro Cultural de Belém 3 Altis Belém Tapada da Tapada da
0 Padrão dos Descobrimentos 4 Pestana Palace R. DAS AÇUCENAS AjudaAjuda
C. DO MIRANTE À AJUDA
q Museu Colecção Berardo C. DO MIRANTE À AJUDA
R. DAS AÇUCENAS
ALTO DAALTO DA J U D A J U D A R U A E D U A R D O B A I R R A D A
AJUDAAJUDA Palácio A A DA AJUDA RU A A. G O MESFERREIRA R U A D O C R U Z E I R O
LARGO
LARGO
AV. DAS DESCOBERTAS AV. DAS DESCOBERTAS RUA ANTÓNIO DE SALDANHA RUA G O N Ç A LO VELHO CABRAL AV. DA ILHA DA MADEIRA BotânicoBotânico C A L Ç A D A D A A Naci
DA AJUDA
Palácio
RU A A. G O MESFERREIR
C A L Ç A D A D
R U A D O C R U Z E I R O
R U A E D U A R D O B A I R R A D A A
Jardim
Jardim
da Ajudada Ajuda
C A L Ç A D A D A T A P A D A
RUA DOM JOÃO DE CASTRO
RUA DOM JOÃO DE CASTRO
de Ajudade Ajuda
R U A G O N Ç A LVE
R U A D E D O M VAS CO
R U A D E D O M VAS CO
T. DO GUARDA-JÓIAS
T. DO GUARDA-JÓIAS
R. DA BICA DO MARQUÊS MARQUÊS
R. DA BICA DO
R . D A S M E R C Ê S
R . D A S M E R C Ê S
AV. DA ILHA DA MADEIRA
RUA G O N Ç A LO VELHO CABRAL
R. CORONEL PEREIRA DA SILVA
R. CORONEL PEREIRA DA SILVA
T. DO
T. DO
RES TEL ORES TEL O R U A G O N Ç A LVES Z A R C O S Z A R C O CALÇADA DA MEMÓRIA T. PAULO CALÇADA DA MEMÓRIA T. PAULO TRAVESSA DA BOA HO
RUA DO RIO SECO
RUA DO RIO SECO
R. SOARES DE PASSOS J A U
R U A J A U
RUA LUÍS DE CAMÕES
MARTINS
MARTINS
TRAVESSA DA BOA HORA À AJU DA
F LO R I N DA S DO GUARDA-JÓIAS
F LO R I N DA S DO GUARDA-JÓIAS
R
R U A PER O DA COVILHÃ
R U A PER O DA COVILHÃ Estádio AVENIDA DA I Municipal LHA DA MADEIR R. D. TENDEIRO T. D A M E M Ó R I A A JUD A JUD A R UA DOS Q UARTE I S R U A D I O G O C ÃO U A A L I A N Ç A
R U A D I O G O C ÃO
R UA NOVA DO CALHARIZ
R UA NOVA DO CALHARIZ
R. SOARES DE PASSOS
Igreja daIgreja da
RUA ANTÓNIO DE SALDANHA
R U A
A
T. DOM VAS CO
T. DOM VAS CO
RUA PEDRO CALMON
MemóriaMemória
T. D A M E M Ó R I A
Estádio
R UA DOS Q UARTE I S
AVENIDA DA I
S
do
do
R.DAS PEDREIRAS
SAN
R 17 R.DAS PEDREIRAS
Restelo
Restelo
CALÇADA DE
R. D. TENDEIRO
AMARO
R. DAS AMOREIR
R 17
R. DAS AMOREIR
RUA GIL EANES RUA GIL EANES Municipal LHA DA MADEIRA RUA 14 R U A 1 R. GENERAL J. ALMEIDA AS À AJ UDA AS À AJ UDA R. ALF. DA SILVA R. ALF. DA SILVA AMARO T. DO CONDE D A RIBEIRA T. DO CONDE D A
CALÇADA DE TO AMAR O
R U A D O G I E S T A L
RUA DE ALCO LEN A
CALÇADA DO GALVÃO
CALÇADA DO GALVÃO
R UA 21 5
R U A 1 5 RUA 14
Ermida deErmida de RUA 11 A RUA 11 R UA 21
RUA DE ALCOLENA
R. GENERAL J. ALMEIDA
São JerónimoSão Jerónimo RUA DE ALCOLENA RUA 1 0 RUA 7 RUA 1 0 RUA 7 Jardim Jardim C A L Ç A D A D A A J U D A C A L Ç A D A D A A J U D A C A L Ç A D A D A B O A H
T R A V E S S A D O G I E S T A L
T R A V E S S A D O G I E S T A L
RUA DOM FRANCI S C O D E ALM EIDA

R 9
R 9
RUA DUARTE PACHECO PEREIRA
R U A 1
R U A 1
RUA DE ALCO LEN A AV E N I D A D O R E STELO
RUA DUARTE PACHECO PEREIRA AV E N I D A D O R E STELO RUA DOM FRANCI S C O D E ALM EIDA MALACA RUA DOS JERÓNIMOS RUA 4 RUA 5 BotânicoBotânico R UA A LEX ANDRE D E S Á P I N TO RUA PI
R U A D A J U N Q U E I R A
Tropical Tropical
RUA 5
RUA 4
PRAÇA DE
PRAÇA DE
C A L Ç A D A D A B O A H O R A
RUA 3
RUA 3
MALACA
PRAÇA L É M
A V E N I D A D A T O R R E D E B E L É M RUA SÃO FRANCISCO XAVIER RUA BARTOLOMEU DIAS Museu NacionalMuseu Nacional T. DOS FERREIROS AFONSO DEAFONSO DE R U A D O E M B A I X A D O R B A I X A D O R A V E N I D
PlanetárioPlanetário
BELÉMBELÉM
Palácio dePalácio de
CalousteCalouste
PRAÇA
RUA ARTUR LAMAS O F ER RE I R A
A V E N I D A D A T O R R E D E B E
Belém
Belém
DE DIO
DE DIO
GulbenkianGulbenkian
DE ALMEI
R UA DOM FRANCISCO
DE ALMEIDA
R UA DOM FRANCISCO DA
A V E N I D A D A Í N D I A
R U A D O E M
R UA A LEX ANDRE D E S Á P I N TO
R U A D A J U N Q U E I R A
T. DOS FERREIROS
R U A D A J U N Q U E I R A
Mosteiro dosMosteiro dos
RUA DOS JERÓNIMOS
RUA SÃO FRANCISCO XAVIER
JerónimosJerónimos
RUA DE B E LÉM E B E LÉM
RUA D
Museu daMuseu da
A V E N I D A D E B R A S Í L I A
A V E N I D A D E B R A S Í L I A
Museu Nacional
Museu Nacional
R. JOÃO BASTOS
R. M. BARATA JOÃO BASTOS
Marinha Marinha
de Arqueologiade Arqueologia
PRAÇA
PRAÇA
dos Coches
dos Coches
RUA DOM LOURENÇO DE ALMEIDA
RUA DOM LOURENÇO DE ALMEIDA
R.
R. M. BARATA
ALBUQUERQUEALBUQUERQUE
RUA BARTOLOMEU DIAS
PRAÇA DO PRAÇA DO
IMPÉRIO
IMPÉRIO
Belém
Belém
R. DOM CRISTÓVÃO DA GAMA
R. DOM CRISTÓVÃO DA GAMA
MAAT – Museu de Art,
MAAT – Museu de Art,
Centro CulturalCentro Cultural
VILA CORREIA
Museu Museu
VILA CORREIA
AV EN I DA D E B R ASÍL IA
AV EN I DA D E B R ASÍL IA
Arquitetura e Tecnologia
Arquitetura e Tecnologia
A V E N I D A D A Í N D I A
A V E N I D A D A Í N D I A
ColecçãoColecção
de Belémde Belém
Berardo Berardo
RUA DE PEDROUÇ OS
RUA DE PEDROUÇ OS
Doca de
Doca de
Estação FluvialEstação Fluvial
de Belémde Belém
Belém
Belém
Te j oTe j o
AVENIDA DE BRASÍLIA Doca Doca
AVENIDA DE BRASÍLIA
do Bom do Bom
Jardim da TorreJardim da Torre Sucesso Sucesso Museu de Museu de Padrão dosPadrão dos ( T agus)( T agus)
Arte Popular
de Belém de Belém Arte Popular DescobrimentosDescobrimentos
0 metres 0 metres 300 N 300 N
Torre de Torre de
Belém Belém 0 yards 0 yards 300 300
Trafaria Trafaria Porto BrandãoPorto Brandão
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E S TRADA DOS MARCOS E S TRADA DOS MARCOS D A A JUD A JUD A
B
B AIRR O AIRR O
D A A



BELÉM BELÉM
R. DO SITIO AO CASALINHO DA AJU DA Tapada da Tapada da
R. DO SITIO AO CASALINHO DA AJU DA

P ar que daP ar que da
RUA PRO F E S S O R C I D DOS SA N T O S
RUA PRO F E S S O R C I D DOS SA N T O S
C. DO MIRANTE À AJUDA
C. DO MIRANTE À AJUDA AjudaAjuda
R. DAS AÇUCENAS
R. DAS AÇUCENAS
ALTO DAALTO DA J U D A J U D A R U A E D U A R D O B A I R R A D A
AJUDAAJUDA Palácio A A DA AJUDA RU A A. G O MESFERREIRA R U A D O C R U Z E I R O
LARGO
LARGO
AV. DAS DESCOBERTAS AV. DAS DESCOBERTAS RUA ANTÓNIO DE SALDANHA RUA G O N Ç A LO VELHO CABRAL AV. DA ILHA DA MADEIRA BotânicoBotânico C A L Ç A D A D A A NacionalNaciona
DA AJUDA
Palácio
RU A A. G O MESFERREIR
C A L Ç A D A D
R U A D O C R U Z E I R O
R U A E D U A R D O B A I R R A D A A
Jardim
Jardim
da Ajudada Ajuda
C A L Ç A D A D A T A P A D A
RUA DOM JOÃO DE CASTRO
RUA DOM JOÃO DE CASTRO
de Ajudade Ajuda
R U A G O N Ç A LVE
CALÇADA DA MEMÓRIA
R U A D E D O M VAS CO
R U A D E D O M VAS CO
T. DO GUARDA-JÓIAS
T. DO GUARDA-JÓIAS
R. DA BICA DO MARQUÊS MARQUÊS
R. DA BICA DO
R . D A S M E R C Ê S
R . D A S M E R C Ê S
AV. DA ILHA DA MADEIRA
RUA G O N Ç A LO VELHO CABRAL
R. CORONEL PEREIRA DA SILVA
R. CORONEL PEREIRA DA SILVA
T. DO
T. DO
RES TEL ORES TEL O R U A G O N Ç A LVES Z A R C O S Z A R C O CALÇADA DA MEMÓRIA T. PAULO T. PAULO TRAVESSA DA BOA HORA À AJU DA RUA DE DOM VASCO RUA DE
RUA DO RIO SECO
RUA DO RIO SECO
R U A J A U
R. SOARES DE PASSOS J A U
RUA LUÍS DE CAMÕES
MARTINS
MARTINS
F LO R I N DA S DO GUARDA-JÓIAS
F LO R I N DA S DO GUARDA-JÓIAS
TRAVESSA DA BOA HORA À AJU DA
R U A PER O DA COVILHÃ Estádio Estádio R 17 R.DAS PEDREIRAS T. D A M E M Ó R I A A JUD A JUD A R UA DOS Q UARTE I S R U A D I O G O C ÃO U A A L I A N Ç A O P E R Á RI A SANTO ANTO SANTO AM
R U A PER O DA COVILHÃ
R
R U A D I O G O C ÃO
R UA NOVA DO CALHARIZ
R UA NOVA DO CALHARIZ
Igreja daIgreja da
R. SOARES DE PASSOS
RUA ANTÓNIO DE SALDANHA
R U A
A
T. DOM VAS CO
T. DOM VAS CO
RUA PEDRO CALMON
MemóriaMemória
T. D A M E M Ó R I A
R UA DOS Q UARTE I S
AVENIDA DA I
S
do
do
R.DAS PEDREIRAS
SAN
Restelo
Restelo
CALÇADA DE
R. D. TENDEIRO
R. D. TENDEIRO
AMARO
R 17
R. DAS AMOREIR
R. DAS AMOREIR
CALÇADA DE TO AMAR O
RUA GIL EANES RUA GIL EANES Municipal LHA DA MADEIRA RUA 14 R U A 1 R. GENERAL J. ALMEIDA AS À AJ UDA AS À AJ UDA R. ALF. DA SILVA R. ALF. DA SILVA AMARO T. DO CONDE D A RIBEIRA T. DO CONDE D A RIBEIRA
R U A D O G I E S T A L
RUA DE ALCO LEN A
CALÇADA DO GALVÃO
CALÇADA DO GALVÃO
R UA 21 5
R U A 1 5 RUA 14
Ermida deErmida de RUA 11 A RUA 11 R UA 21
RUA DE ALCOLENA
R. GENERAL J. ALMEIDA
São JerónimoSão Jerónimo RUA DE ALCOLENA RUA 1 0 RUA 7 RUA 1 0 RUA 7 Jardim Jardim C A L Ç A D A D A A J U D A C A L Ç A D A D A A J U D A C A L Ç A D A D A B O A H O R A R U A
AVENIDA DA I Municipal LHA DA MADEIR
T R A V E S S A D O G I E S T A L
T R A V E S S A D O G I E S T A L
RUA DOM FRANCI S C O D E ALM EIDA

RUA DUARTE PACHECO PEREIRA
R 9
R 9
R U A 1
R U A 1
RUA DUARTE PACHECO PEREIRA AV E N I D A D O R E STELO RUA DOM FRANCI S C O D E ALM EIDA MALACA RUA DOS JERÓNIMOS RUA 4 RUA 5 BotânicoBotânico Belém R UA A LEX ANDRE D E S Á P I N TO RUA
RUA DE ALCO LEN A AV E N I D A D O R E STELO
R U A D A J U N Q U E I R A
Tropical Tropical
RUA 5
RUA 4
PRAÇA DE
PRAÇA DE
C A L Ç A D A D A B O A H O R A
A V E N I D A D A T O R R E D E B E L É M RUA SÃO FRANCISCO XAVIER RUA BARTOLOMEU DIAS Museu NacionalMuseu Nacional T. DOS FERREIROS AFONSO DEAFONSO DE R U A D O E M B A I X A D O R B A I X A D O R A V E N I D A
MALACA
RUA 3
RUA 3
PRAÇA L É M
PlanetárioPlanetário
BELÉMBELÉM
Palácio dePalácio de
PRAÇA
CalousteCalouste
RUA ARTUR LAMAS O F ER RE I R A
A V E N I D A D A T O R R E D E B E
Belém
DE DIO
DE DIO
GulbenkianGulbenkian
DE ALMEI
R UA DOM FRANCISCO
R UA DOM FRANCISCO DA
DE ALMEIDA
A V E N I D A D A Í N D I A
R U A D O E M
R UA A LEX ANDRE D E S Á P I N TO
R U A D A J U N Q U E I R A
R U A D A J U N Q U E I R A
T. DOS FERREIROS
Mosteiro dosMosteiro dos
RUA DOS JERÓNIMOS
RUA SÃO FRANCISCO XAVIER
JerónimosJerónimos
RUA D
RUA DE B E LÉM E B E LÉM
A V E N I D A D E B R A S Í L I A
A V E N I D A D E B R A S Í L I A
Museu daMuseu da
Museu Nacional
Museu Nacional
R. M. BARATA JOÃO BASTOS
R. JOÃO BASTOS
Marinha Marinha
de Arqueologiade Arqueologia
PRAÇA
PRAÇA
dos Coches
dos Coches
RUA DOM LOURENÇO DE ALMEIDA
RUA DOM LOURENÇO DE ALMEIDA
R.
R. M. BARATA
ALBUQUERQUEALBUQUERQUE
RUA BARTOLOMEU DIAS
PRAÇA DO PRAÇA DO
IMPÉRIO
IMPÉRIO
Belém
Belém
R. DOM CRISTÓVÃO DA GAMA
R. DOM CRISTÓVÃO DA GAMA
MAAT – Museu de Art,
MAAT – Museu de Art,
VILA CORREIA
VILA CORREIA
Centro CulturalCentro Cultural
Museu Museu
AV EN I DA D E B R ASÍL IA
AV EN I DA D E B R ASÍL IA
Arquitetura e Tecnologia
Arquitetura e Tecnologia
ColecçãoColecção
A V E N I D A D A Í N D I A
A V E N I D A D A Í N D I A
de Belémde Belém
Berardo Berardo
RUA DE PEDROUÇ OS
RUA DE PEDROUÇ OS
Doca de
Estação FluvialEstação Fluvial
Doca de
de Belémde Belém
Belém
Belém
Te j oTe j o
AVENIDA DE BRASÍLIA Doca Doca
AVENIDA DE BRASÍLIA
do Bom do Bom
Jardim da TorreJardim da Torre Sucesso Sucesso Museu de Museu de Padrão dosPadrão dos ( T agus)( T agus)
Arte Popular
de Belém de Belém Arte Popular DescobrimentosDescobrimentos
0 metres 0 metres 300 N 300 N
Torre de Torre de
Belém Belém 0 yards 0 yards 300 300
Trafaria Trafaria Porto BrandãoPorto Brandão
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1 "
MOSTEIRO DOS


JERÓNIMOS


EXPERIENCE Belém  C9 ⌂ Praça do Império (combined ticket for monastery and Torre de Belém

available) @ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751 v 15 £ Belém # 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun
(to 6:30pm May–Sep) ¢ Public hols ∑ mosteirojeronimos.gov.pt
Belém’s most popular tourist attraction, this highly ornate monastery is a
National Monument and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983.
A monument to the wealth of the Age of Discovery (p44),
the monastery was commissioned by Manuel I around
1501, and was financed largely by “pepper money” – a tax
levied on spices, precious stones and gold. The monas tery
was cared for by the Order of St Jerome (Hieronymites)
until 1834, when all religious orders were disbanded. The walls of the
Great figures from Portugal’s history are entombed here refectory are tiled with
– but one tomb stands empty: that of the “longed for” 18th-century azulejos.
Dom Sebastião, the young king who never returned
from battle in 1578.

















The monastery’s exterior,
designed to emphasize the
Portuguese empire’s wealth








T
The decorated exterior he decorated exterior
and interior of the nd interior of the
a
Mosteiro dos Jerónimososteiro dos Jerónimos
M
The west portal,
The modern wing, designed by the
built in 1850 in Neo- French sculptor
Manueline style, houses Nicolau Chanterène
the Museu Nacional de
Arqueologia (p113).
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1 2
1 Slender pillars rise like palm
trees to the spectacular vaulted
roof in the church of Santa Maria.
2 The 19th-century tomb of
navigator Vasco da Gama is fes-
tooned with seafaring symbols.
3 João de Castilho’s pure Manueline
cloisters are adorned with delicate
tracery and richly carved arches.

3
The chapterhouse holds
the tomb of Alexandre
Herculano, historian and
Cloister first mayor of Belém.
Did You Know?
Eighteenth-century
azulejos in the rectory
depict the Feeding of
the Five Thousand.



The chancel,
commissioned in 1572
by Dona Catarina, the
wife of João III





















The empty tomb
of the “longed
The geometrical lines of the for” Dom
south portal are covered with Sebastião
exuberant decoration.
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2 "
TORRE DE Did You Know?

The tower’s real name
BELÉM Vicente, after the city’s
is the Torre de São
patron saint.
EXPERIENCE Belém £ Belém # 10am–6:30pm Tue–Sun (to 5:30pm Apr–Oct) Battlements, decorated
 A10 ⌂ Avenida de Brasilia @ 727, 728, 729, 751 v 15
¢ 1 Jan, Easter Sun, 1 May, 13 Jun, 25 Dec ∑ torrebelem.gov.pt
Set like a giant stone rook at the edge of the Tagus,
with the cross of the
this elaborate tower showcases some of Belém’s best
Order of Christ
Manueline architecture. After admiring the intricate
exterior, climb its narrow spiral staircase for
breathtaking views.
Commissioned by Manuel I, the tower was built as a
fortress in 1514–20 and soon became a symbol of
Portugal’s great era of expansion. The real beauty
of this Manueline gem lies in the decoration of the
exterior. Adorned with rope carved in stone, it has
openwork balconies, Moorish-style watchtowers
and distinctive battlements in the shape of
shields. The Gothic interior below the terrace,
which served as a storeroom for arms and a
prison, is very austere, but the private quarters
in the tower are worth visiting for the loggia
and the panorama.
The Italian-inspired
arcaded loggia is a
light touch along the
battlements.
The stone fortess, a
symbol of Portugal’s
seafaring power






















Sentry The vaulted dungeon
posts was used as a prison
until the 19th century.
Statue of the Virgin Mary, a
symbol of protection for sailors
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Must See
EXPERIENCE MORE



of Spain. As time goes by,
3 "'-= the coaches become more
Museu Nacional sumptuous, the interiors lined
dos Coches with red velvet and gold, the
exteriors carved and decorated
 D9 ⌂ Avenida da Índia
136 @ 714, 727, 728, 729, with allegories and royal coats
751 v 15 £ Belém # 10am– of arms. Three huge Baroque
6pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, coaches made in Rome for
the Portuguese ambassador
Easter, 1 May, 13 Jun, 24 & 25
Dec ∑ museudoscoches.pt to the Vatican, Dom Rodrigo
Almeida e Menezes, Marquês
The Torre de Belém, The museum’s collection of de Abrantes, are the epitome
sitting at the edge coaches is arguably the finest of pomp embellished with
of the Tagus river in Europe. First established in life-size gilded statues.
the old Royal Riding School, Further examples of royal
the museum show cases a carriages include two-wheeled
unique and opulent collec tion cabriolets, landaus and pony-
of coaches, carriages and drawn chaises used by young
sedan chairs dating from the members of the royal family.
17th, 18th and 19th centuries. The 18th-century Eyeglass
The collection was moved to a Chaise, whose black leather
new, modern build ing by the hood is pierced by sinister
Brazilian architect Paulo eye-like windows, was made
Mendes da Rocha, winner of dur ing the Pombal era (p128)
the 2006 Pritzker Prize, in 2015. when lavish decoration was
The extra space enabled discouraged. The museology,
more modern vehicles to be installed in 2017, presents
added to the display. However, inter active displays that give
for most visitors the historic context to the collection.
royal carriages still steal the
show. Made in Portugal, Italy,
Open cloister in the France, Austria and Spain, Made in Portugal,
tower, designed to carriages range from the plain Italy, France, Austria
dispel cannon smoke to the preposterous. One of the and Spain, carriages
earliest is the comparatively range from the plain
simple 17th-century leather
King’s room and wood coach of Philip II to the preposterous.


Entrance


Gangway
to shore


INSIDER TIP
Aim High
Head to the former royal
residences at the top of
the tower to glimpse the
most ornate carvings.
Simple carvings adorn
the old ammunitions
store and prison rooms Opulent carriages
on the lower floors. exhibited at the Museu
Nacional dos Coches
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family temporarily set up
camp in tents in the palace
grounds, while the interior
Did You Know? was used as a hospital. Today
the elegant pink building is STAY
Most of Belém’s the official residence of the
museums and historic President of Portugal. Jerónimos 8
buildings were built for The Museu da Presidência This sleek, modern
the 1940 Lisbon Expo. da República holds personal location in historic Belém
hotel is at odds with its
EXPERIENCE Belém 4 "' presidents, as well as the close to the monastery.
items and state gifts of former
official portrait gallery.
 C9 ⌂ Rua dos
Jerónimos 8
∑ jeronimos8.com
Palácio de Belém
¡¡¡
 C9 ⌂ Praça Afonso de
Jardim Botânico
Albuquerque @ 714, 727, 5 " Altis Belém
Tropical
728, 729, 751 v 15 £ Belém Beside the Tagus river,
# 10:30am–4:30pm Sat;  C9 ⌂ Largo do Jerónimos this ultra-modern hotel
Museu da Presidencia da § 213 921 851 @ 714, 727, has a Michelin-starred
República: 10am–6pm Tue– 728, 729, 751 v 15 £ Belém restaurant and rooftop
Sun ¢ Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec # 9am–8pm daily (to 5pm pool with city views.
∑ museu.presidencia.pt Oct–Mar) ¢ 1 Jan, Easter,  B10 ⌂ Doca
Built by the Conde de Aveiras 25 Dec do Bom Sucesso
in 1559, before the Tagus had Also known as the Jardim do ∑ altishotels.com
receded, this palace once had Ultramar, this peaceful park ¡¡¡
gardens bordering the river. with ponds, waterfowl and
In the 1700s it was bought by peacocks attracts surprisingly Pestana Palace
João V, who made it suitably few visitors. Designed at the
lavish for his amorous liaisons. beginning of the 20th century The sumptuous interiors
of this ornate palace are
When the 1755 earthquake as the research centre of the matched by lovely
struck, the king, José I, and his Institute for Tropical Sciences, gardens with a pool and
family were staying here and it is more of an arbo retum Chinese pavilion.
thus survived the devastation than a flower garden. The
of central Lisbon. Fearing emphasis is on rare and  E8 ⌂ Rua Jau 54
∑ pestanapalace
another tremor, the royal endangered tropical and lisbon.com
subtropical trees and plants.
Among the most striking are ¡¡¡
Manicured gardens dragon trees, native to the
of the Palácio Canary Islands and Madeira,
de Belém monkey puzzle trees from


























112-113_EW_Portugal.indd 112 08/10/2018 12:36

South America and a splendid original. The museum houses An exhibition of pottery
avenue of Washington palms. Portugal’s main archaeological at Museu Nacional
The charming Oriental garden, re search centre and the de Arqueologia
with its streams, bridges and exhibits, from sites all over
hibiscus, is heralded by a large the country, include a gold
Chinese-style gateway that Iron Age brace let, Visigothic
represented Macau in the jewellery found in the Alentejo 7 "
Exhibition of the Portuguese in southern Portugal, Roman Planetário Calouste
World in 1940 (p118). ornaments, some fine Roman Gulbenkian
The research buildings are mosaics and early-8th-century
located in the neighbouring Moorish artifacts.  B9 ⌂ Praça do Império
@ 727, 728, 751 v 15
Palácio dos Condes da Calheta, The main Greco-Roman and £ Belém # Times vary,
whose interior walls are cov- Egyptian section is partic- check website for details
ered with azulejos that span ularly strong on funerary art, ∑ ccm.marinha.pt
three centuries. Temporary featur ing figurines, tomb-
exhibitions are held in the stones, masks, terracotta Financed by the Gulbenkian
palace (closed 12:30–2pm). amulets and funeral cones Foundation (p122), and built
inscribed with hiero glyphics in 1965 this modern building
alluding to the solar system, sits incongruously beside the
dating from 6000 BC. Jerónimos monas tery. Inside,
6 " The dimly lit Room of the planetarium reveals the
Museu Nacional Treasures is full of exquisite mysteries of the cosmos.
de Arqueologia gold and silver artifacts, There are shows in Portuguese,
including coins, necklaces, English, Spanish and French
 B9 ⌂ Praça do Império
@ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751 bracelets and other jewellery several times a week explain-
dating from 1800–500 BC.
ing the move ment of the stars
v 15 £ Belém # 10am–
6pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, This room has been refur- and our solar system, as well
Easter, 1 May, 13 Jun, 24 & bished to allow more of the as presentations on the
25 Dec ∑ museunacional magnificent jewellery, unseen constellations or the Star of
by the public for decades, to
Bethlehem (Belém). The
arqueologia.gov.pt
be displayed. In addition, the Hubble Vision show includes
The long west wing of the museum holds temporary stunning images provided by
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos exhibitions from time to time. the orbital telescope.
(p108), which was formerly the
monks’ dormitory, has been
an archaeological museum The long west wing of the Mosteiro
since 1893. Reconstructed dos Jerónimos, which was formerly
in the middle of the 19th
century, the building is a poor the monks’ dormitory, has been an
imitation of the Manueline archaeological museum since 1893.
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8 "
Museu de Marinha
 B9 ⌂ Praça do Império
@ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751
v 15 £ Belém # 10am–
6pm daily (to 5pm Oct–Apr)
¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
EXPERIENCE Belém The Maritime Museum was
25 Dec ∑ ccm.marinha.pt
inaugurated in 1962 in the
west wing of the Jerónimos
monastery (p108). It was here,
Fine models of old
in the chapel built by Henry
the Navigator (p328), that
sailing ships on display
mariners took Mass before at the Museu de Marinha
embarking on their voyages.
A hall devoted to the
Discoveries illustrates the A series of rooms displaying
progress in shipbuilding from models of modern Portuguese 9 "\-=
the mid-15th century, capital- ships leads on to the Royal Centro Cultural
izing on the experience of Quarters, where you can see de Belém
long-distance explorers. Small the exquisitely furnished  B9 ⌂ Praça do Império
replicas show the transition wood-panelled cabin of King
from the barque to the lateen- Carlos and Queen Amélia @ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751
v 15 £ Belém # 8am–8pm
rigged caravel, through the from the royal yacht Amélia, Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat,
faster square-rigged caravel, built in Scotland in 1900. Sun & public hols ∑ ccb.pt
to the Portuguese nau. The modern, incongruous
Also here are navigational pavilion opposite houses Standing between the Tagus
instru ments, astrolabes and ori ginal royal barges, the and the Jerónimos monastery,
replicas of 16th- century most extravagant of which this stark, modern building
maps showing the world is the royal brig built in 1780 was erected as the head-
as it was known then. The for Maria I. The collection quarters of the Portuguese
stone pillars, carved with the ends with an exhibition of presidency of the European
Cross of the Knights of Christ, seaplanes, including the Community. In 1993, it opened
are replicas of the types of Santa Clara, which made the as a cultural centre offering
padrão set up as monuments first crossing of the South performing arts, music and
to Portu guese sovereignty on Atlantic, from Lisbon to Rio photography. An exhibition
the lands discovered. de Janeiro, in 1922. centre houses the Museu
Colecção Berardo (p115).
Both the café and restaurant
VASCO DA GAMA spill out onto the ramparts of
(C 1460–1524) the building, whose peaceful
In 1498, Vasco da Gama gardens look out over the
sailed (right) around the quay and the river.
Cape of Good Hope and
opened the sea route to
India. Although the 10 "
Hindu ruler of Calicut Padrão dos
was not excited by his
humble offerings of cloth Descobrimentos
and wash basins, Da  C10 ⌂ Avenida de
Gama returned to Brasília @ 727, 728 v 15
Portugal with a cargo of £ Belém # Mar–Sep: 10am–
spices. In 1502, he sailed 7pm daily; Oct–Feb: 10am–
again to India, setting up 6pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May,
Portuguese trade routes 25 Dec ∑ padraodos
in the Indian Ocean. João
III nominated him viceroy descobrientos .pt
of India in 1524, but he Standing prominently on the
died soon after. Belém waterfront, this huge
angular structure, the Padrão
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On the monument’s north
side, the huge mariner’s com­
Did You Know? pass cut into the paving stone EAT
was a gift from South Africa in
1960. The central map, dotted
Monks used egg whites
to starch robes, and with mer maids and galleons, Antiga Confeitaria
gave the leftover yolks shows the routes of the dis­ de Belém
to bakeries to bake coverers in the 15th and 16th This famous café has
pastéis de Belém. centuries. Inside the monu­ been baking classic
ment a lift (there is a fee)
pastéis de Belém
whisks you up to the sixth floor custard tarts since 1837
where steps then lead to the
and you can see them
dos Descobrimentos top for a splendid panorama being made before your
(Monument to the Discoveries), of Belém. The basement level is eyes here; the long
was built in 1960 to mark used for temporary exhi bitions. queues are absolutely
the 500th anniversary of the The Padrão is not to every­ worth it.
death of Henry the Navigator. one’s taste but the setting is
The 52­m (170­ft) high undeniably splendid and the  C9 ⌂ Rua de
Belém 84–92
monument, commissioned by caravel design is imag inative. ∑ pasteisdebelem.pt
the Salazar regime, com mem­ The monument looks
orates the mariners, royal particularly dramatic when ¡¡¡
patrons and all those who viewed from the west in the
took part in the develop ment light of the late after noon sun.
of the Portuguese Age of
Discovery. The monument is
designed in the shape of a of a century of modern and
caravel, with Portugal’s coat 11 " contemporary art through a
of arms on the sides and the Museu Colecção variety of media, from canvas
sword of the Royal House of Berardo to sculpture and from photo­
Avis rising above the entrance.  B9 ⌂ Praça do Império graphy to video installations.
Henry the Navigator stands at @ 727, 728, 729, 751 v 15 Highlights include Pablo
the prow with a caravel in £ Belém # 10am–7pm Picasso’s Tête de Femme (1909),
hand. In two sloping lines daily ∑ museuberardo.pt a good example of the Spanish
either side of the mon ument artist’s Cubist style; variants
are stone statues of Portu­ The brainchild of business of Andy Warhol’s famous Brillo
guese heroes linked with the mogul and art collector José Box (1964–8); and Jeff Koons’
Age of Discovery, such as Manuel Rodrigues Berardo, Poodle (1991). Other artists on
Dom Manuel I holding an this fascinating gallery, in the show include Francis Bacon,
armillary sphere, the poet Centro Cultural de Belém, Willem de Kooning and Henry
Camões with a copy of Os boasts around 1,000 works by Moore. Notable Portuguese art
Lusíadas and the more than 500 artists. The on display includes Alberto
painter Nuno Museu Colecção Berardo Carneiro’s sculptures and
Gonçalves. provides a rich compendium etchings by Paula Rego.


Padrão dos
Descobrimentos,
inaugurated in 1960





















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built to a design by Boitac.
12 "' The only decorative elements
MAAT – Museu de on the monolithic chapel are
Arte, Arquitetura e the four pinnacles, corner
Tecnologia gargoyles and Manueline
portal. Perched on a quiet hill
 D9 ⌂ Avenida Brasília
@ 727, 728, 729 v 15 above Belém, the chapel has
£ Belém # 11–7pm Wed– fine views. A path from the
terrace winds down the hill
EXPERIENCE Belém With riverside views, the stylish 14
Mon ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec
towards the Torre de Belém.
∑ maat.pt
Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e
Tecnologia is operated by the
Igreja da Memória
EDP Foundation, and is dedi­
cated to contemp orary art,
primarily Portuguese, along  C8 ⌂ Calçada do Galvão,
Ajuda § 213 635 295 @ 728,
with modern architec ture and Colourful stained glass 732 v 18 # For Mass: 6pm
technology. Popularly known gracing the chapel of Mon–Sat, 10am Sun
as MAAT, the exhibits are Ermida de São JerÓnimo
housed in an award­winning Built in 1760, this church was
building designed by the 13 founded by King José I in
London­based architect gratitude for his escape
Amanda Levete. Its structure Ermida de São from an assassination plot
is a sharp contrast to the well­ Jerónimo on the site in 1758. The king
known Lisbon power station,  A8 ⌂ Praça de Itália was re turning from a secret
which stands next door and § 210 966 989 @ 714, 728, liaison with a lady of the
forms an integral part of this 729, 732, 751 # Mon–Sat noble Távora family when
building complex. Visits to (by appointment only) his carriage was attacked
the MAAT include a tour of and a bullet hit him in the
the iconic power station, Also known as the Capela de arm. Pombal (p128) used this
and access to the building’s São Jerónimo, this little chapel as an excuse to get rid of his
undulating pedestrian roof was constructed in 1514 when enemies in the Távora family,
which affords stunning views Diogo Boitac was working on
of Lisbon and the Tagus river. the Jerónimos monastery
As well as cutting­edge (p108). Although a far simpler MAAT, housed in an
temp orary exhibitions, the building, it is also Manueline innovative building
museum also features the in style and may have been beside the Tagus river
Pedro Cabrita Reis Collection,
which consists of some 400
works by over 70 artists from
the end of the 20th century.























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Manicured formal
gardens of the Jardim
Botânico da Ajuda


accusing them of conspiracy. Italian-style gardens provide
In 1759 they were savagely a pleasant respite from the
tortured and executed. Their noisy suburbs of Belém.
deaths are commemorated The en trance on Calçada da €20 million
by a pillar in Beco do Chão Ajuda (wrought-iron gates
Salgado, off Rua de Belém. in a pink wall) is easy to miss. The cost of building the
The Neo-Classical domed The park comprises 5,000 spectacular Museu de
church has a marble-clad plant species from Africa, Arte, Arquitetura
interior and a small chapel, on Asia and America. Notable e Tecnologia.
the right, containing the tomb features are the 400-year-
of Pombal, who died at the old dragon tree, native of
age of 83, a year after being Madeira, and the flamboy ant
banished from Lisbon. 18th-century foun tain deco- The palace only became
rated with serpents, winged a permanent residence of
fish, sea horses and mythical the royal family when Luís I
creatures. A majestic terrace became king in 1861 and
15 "' looks out over the lower level married an Italian Princess,
Jardim Botânico of the gardens. Maria Pia di Savoia. No
da Ajuda expense was spared in
furnishing the apartments,
 C7 ⌂ Calçada da Ajuda
@ 714, 727, 728, 729, 732 16 "' which are decorated with silk
v 18 # 9am–6pm daily Palácio Nacional wallpaper, Sèvres porcelain
and crystal chandeliers.
(to 8pm May–Sep) ¢ 1 Jan, da Ajuda
25 Dec ∑ isa.ulisboa.pt/jba A prime example of regal
 D7 ⌂ Largo da Ajuda excess is the extraordinary
Laid out on two levels by @ 732, 742, 760 v 18 Saxe Room, a wedding
Pombal in 1768, these present to Maria Pia from
# 10am–5:30pm Thu–Tue
(last adm 5pm) ¢ 1 Jan, the King of Saxony, in which
Easter, 1 May, 13 Jun, 25 Dec every piece of furniture is
INSIDER TIP deco rated with Meissen
Plan(t) Ahead ∑ palacioajuda.gov.pt porcelain. On the first floor
To view the most exotic The royal palace, which was the huge Banqueting Hall,
plant specimens in the destroyed by fire in 1795, with crystal chandeliers, silk-
Jardim Botânico da was re placed in the early 19th covered chairs and an allegory
Ajuda, head straight for century by this magnificent of the birth of João VI on the
the upper level. Here Neo-Classical building set frescoed ceiling, is truly
you can delight at the around a large quadrangle. It impressive. At the other end
ancient dragon tree was left incomplete when the of the palace, Luís I’s Neo-
from Madeira and a royal family was forced into Gothic painting studio is a
sprawling Schotia Afra. exile in Brazil in 1807, following more intimate display of
the invasion of Portugal. intricately carved furniture.
117



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A SHORT WALK
BELÉM




Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest station Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
tram stop Time 25 minutes consequently littered with historically signi­
EXPERIENCE Belém in imposing, exuberant buildings such as the ficant sights: Praça do Império was laid out
Portugal’s former maritime glory, expressed
for the 1940 Exhibition of the Portuguese
Jerónimos monastery, is evident everywhere in
Belém. Silted up since the days of the caravels,
World, while Praça Afonso de Albuquerque was
this picturesque area along the waterfront was
dedicated to Portugal’s first viceroy of India.
restructured at Salazar’s (p46) insistence, in an
century, briefly housed the royal family after
attempt to revive awareness of and celebrate
the country’s Golden Age. A stroll here is The Palácio de Belém, restored in the 18th
the earthquake of 1755.
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos,
a former monastery
covered in rich
Manueline decoration
The Museu Nacional de
Arqueologia exhibits
archaeological finds ranging
from an Iron Age gold
bracelet to Moorish artifacts. T R AV E S S A D O S F E R R E I R O S

L A R G O
D O S
J E R Ó N I M O S
P R A Ç A D O I M P É R I O











Praça do Império, a
great square in front of
the monastery, whose
central fountain is lit up
on special occasions
START





0 metres 50 N
0 yards 50



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BELÉM




Locator Map
For more detail see p106
The vaulted arcades of
the Manueline cloister of Jardim Botânico Tropical, peaceful
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos gardens filled with exotic plants
and trees gathered from Portugal’s
former colonies
Palácio de Belém, a former
royal palace that is now
the residence of the
Portuguese president










L A R G O T R AV E S S A D O S F E R R E I R O S T. MARTA PINTO


J E R Ó N I M O S
FINISH
R U A D E B E L É M



R U A V I E I R A P O R T U E N S E


Stop at Antiga Confeitaria
de Belém, the birthplace
of pastéis de Belém
(rich custard tarts).
Rua Vieira Portuense
is lined with colourful
16th- and 17th-century
houses and runs Praça Afonso de
alongside a small park. Albuquerque, a public
square with a central
Neo-Manueline statue of Did You Know?
the first Portuguese
viceroy of India, after Manuel I granted the
whom the space is named Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
to the Hieronymite
order, said to protect
kings after death.


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The Cristo Rei sculpture glimpsed through the red towers of the Ponte 25 de Abril








































Must Sees
1 Museu Calouste Gulbenkian
2 Museu Nacional do Azulejo
Experience More
3 Praça Marquês de Pombal
4 Cristo Rei
5 Parque Eduardo VII
6 Ponte 25 de Abril
7 Doca de Santo Amaro
8 Fundação Oriente Museu
9 Museu de Carris
0 LX Factory
q Campo Pequeno
w Museo da Água
e Parque das Nações
r Oceanário de Lisboa
t Museu de Lisboa
y Aqueduto das Águas Livres
u Palácio Fronteira
i Parque do Monteiro-Mor






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BEYOND

THE CENTRE



Away from the city centre, Lisbon unfolds in a
blend of residential sprawl, industrial parks and
the remnants of ancient villages. Older sights
include the manicured Parque Eduardo VII to the
north, and the 16th-century, tile-fronted Palácio
Fronteira to the northwast.
Most of Lisbon’s outlying suburbs originated
more recently, however, with several Salazar-era
buildings and structures – such as the vast Cristo
Rei – springing up during the mid-20th century.

MOSCAVIDE
ODIVELAS Parque do
Monteiro-Mor Parque das Nações
Portela
Airport
ENCARNAÇÃO
PONTINHA Campo Grande Oceanário
de Lisboa
Colégio
Militar / Luz Oriente
Museu de Lisboa
AMADORA LUZ LUMIAR CHELAS
Museu Calouste Campo
Gulbenkian Pequeno
Palácio
BENFICA Fronteira
ENTRECAMPOS BEATO
DAMAIA Aqueduto das Parque Eduardo VII
Águas Livres Praça Marquês Museu Nacional do Azulejo
de Pombal
ESTEFÂNIA XABREGAS
CARNAXIDE Museo da Água
CAMPOLIDE Rossio
Cais do ALFAMA
RESTELO AJUDA LX Factory Sodré
Museu de Santa T e j o
Apolónia
Carris Fundação ( T a g u s )
ALGÉS BELÉM Oriente Museu Terreiro
Doca de do Paço
Belém Santo Amaro Montijo
Cacilhas
T e j o
( T a g u s ) Ponte 25 de Abril Cristo Rei
ALMADA 0 km 2 N
Trafaria Porto PRAGAL
Brandão Seixal Barreiro 0 miles 2
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1 "\-=
MUSEU CALOUSTE


GULBENKIAN


EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre 24 & 25 Dec ∑ gulbenkian.pt/museu array of René Lalique Art Nouveau jewellery.
⌂ Avenida de Berna 45A @ 713, 716, 726, 742, 746, 756 q Praça de Espanha or
São Sebastião # 10am–6pm Wed–Mon (free Sun after 2pm) ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
Thanks to wealthy Armenian oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian’s wide-ranging
tastes and his eye for a masterpiece, this museum has one of the finest
collections of art in Europe.

The museum’s works are split across two
separately housed collections, linked by
a serene stretch of urban park. The Founder’s
Collection, widely considered to be the
world’s most complete collection of modern
Collection – Gulbenkian’s personal pieces –
sits within a purpose-built museum dating South of the gardens stands the Modern
Portuguese art. Standard tickets allow access
from 1969, with varied exhibits ranging from to both collections, while the sculpture-dotted
ancient Egyptian statuettes to an astonishing gardens can be explored free of charge.















CALOUSTE
GULBENKIAN
Born in Scutari in 1869,
Gulbenkian started his
art collect ion at the age
of 14, when he bought
some ancient coins in a
bazaar. In 1928, he was
granted a 5 per cent
stake in four major oil
comp anies, earning
himself the nickname
“Mr Five Percent”. With 6,000
the wealth he accumu­
lated, Gulbenkian was Artworks were
able to indulge his love amassed by
of fine art. During World Gulbenkian in his
War II, he went to live in personal collection.
neutral Portugal, and
bequeathed his estate
to his adopted nation
upon his death in 1955.


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Must See
1 The blocky concrete
building in which the
Founder’s Collection
is housed.
2 This fine marble
statue of Diana, goddess
of the hunt, is part of the
Founder’s Collection.
3 The spacious
galleries of the
Founder’s Collection.
1








2

3






































Exhibits within the
museum’s extensive
Modern Collection
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FOUNDER’S COLLECTION

Ranking alongside the Museu to the Roman period (from
de Arte Antiga (p92) as the the 1st century BC). Out-
finest museum in Lisbon, the standing pieces in the
Founder’s Collection exhibits, Classical art section include a
which span over 4,000 years magnificent red figure Greek
from ancient Egyptian figur- vase and a Roman satyr’s
EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre played in spacious and well-lit Armenian, Gulbenkian had Rembrandt’s Portrait of an
ines, through translucent
head from the 2nd century AD.
The museum’s Eastern art
Islamic glassware, to Art
is also remarkable. Being
Nouveau brooches, are dis-
galleries, many overlooking
a keen interest in works from
the Near and Middle East,
the gardens or courtyards.
Although the museum is not
resulting in a fine collection
of Persian and Turkish carpets,
large, each work of art is
Old Man (1645), a master­
class in light and shade
worthy of attention.
textiles, costumes and cera-
mics in the Oriental Islamic
In the Egyptian, Classical
and Mesopotamian gallery
priceless treasures chart the
pieces, there is a large collec-
filled with the flam boyant
evolution of Egyptian art from tion of Chinese porcelain
Art Nouveau creations of
acquired by Gulbenkian
the Old Kingdom (c 2700 BC) gallery. In terms of Far Eastern museum ends with a room
between 1907 and 1947. One French jeweller René Lalique
of the rarest pieces a small (1860–1945). Gulbenkian
blue-glazed bowl from the was a close friend of Lalique’s
Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368). and acquired many of the
The carefully plotted pieces on display directly
route around the from the artist. Inlaid with
semiprecious stones and
covered with enamel or gold
leaf, the ornate collection
Porcelain vases on constitutes a spectacular
display within the finish to this unique and
Founder’s Collection incredibly diverse museum.














Visitor wandering
the galleries of the
Founder’s Collection
124
124


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Must See
TOP FOUNDER’S
5 COLLECTION
PIECES
St Catherine
A serene 15th-century
bust, painted by the
Flemish artist Rogier
van der Weyden.
Boy Blowing Bubbles
Édouard Manet’s 1867
painting considers the
transience of life and art.
Yuan Dynasty
Stem Cup
This blue-glazed piece is
decorated with delicate
reliefs of Taoist figures
under bamboo leaves.
Busts on
Diana Statue display in the
A graceful marble statue Modern Collection
(p123), once owned by
Catherine the Great and MODERN COLLECTION
considered too obscene
to exhibit.
The Modern Collection lies and – perhaps the best
Ancient Greek Vase across the gardens from the known – Paula Rego. Rego
This 5th century BC Founder’s Collection and is settled in London in the
vase is adorned with part of the same cultural mid-1970s, but she has long
mythological motifs. foundation. It is housed in been hailed in Portugal as
a large, light-filled building, one of the nation’s greatest
designed by architect Sir living artists. Her work often
Leslie Martin in 1983. contains elements of magical
The permanent collection realism, although later works
features over 10,000 works, have gradually tended towards
with an emphasis on paintings more realistic renderings.
and sculpture by Portuguese Within the international
artists from the turn of the collection are works by big
20th century to the present hitters such as David Hockney
day. Perhaps the most famous and British sculptor Antony
painting is the striking Gormley (renowned for his
portrait of poet Fernando Angel of the North sculpture in
Pessoa in the Café Irmãos Gateshead, England).
Unidos (1964) by José de As well as the exhibition
Almada Negreiros (1893– space, which comprises three
1970), a leading exponent linked galleries, there is also
of Portuguese Modernism. an events area, a busy café
The oil painting was com- and a museum bookshop.
missioned by the Calouste
Gulbenkian Foundation, and
intended to replicate a similar
portrait that Almada had Did You Know?
produced for the café itself.
Also of interest are Paula Rego’s pieces
paintings by Eduardo Viana have fetched up to
(1881–1967), Amadeo de £1.1 million at auction,
Sousa Cardoso (1887–1910) a record for a
and contemporary artists Portuguese artist.
such as Rui Sanches, Graça
Morais, Teresa Magalhães
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PICTURE PERFECT
Manueline
Cloister
Set around a central
courtyard, the cloister
is a serene spot. Its
delicate columns and
carved vaulted walk­
EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre
ways are the perfect
place to point your lens.



























2 "\-=
MUSEU NACIONAL

DO AZULEJO


⌂ Rua da Madre de Deus 4 @ 718, 728, 742, 759, 794 # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
¢ Mon, public hols ∑ museudoazulejo.gov.pt
Housed in a beautiful 16th-century convent, the National Tile
Museum offers an unmatched display of this uniquely
Portuguese art form, with azulejos dating from the
15th century right through to the present day.
Dona Leonor, widow of King João II, founded the Convento da
Madre de Deus in 1509. Built in Manueline style, restorations
of the church under João III and João V added its simple Did You Know?
Renaissance designs and striking Baroque decoration.
The stunning convent cloisters are now home to the National The word azulejo has
Tile Museum. Decorative panels and individual tiles trace the Arabic roots – it means
evolution of tile-making from its Moorish roots, up to the “small polished stone”.
current Portuguese art form. The walls of the restaurant are
lined with 19th-century tiles, depicting hanging game, from
wild boar and pheasants to fish.
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Must See


































Fine 17th-century tiles
patterning the cloister,
from the original convent















1 2
1 The church’s Manueline
portal was recreated from
a 16th-century painting.
2 The 16th-century church
of Madre de Deus acquired
its sumptuous interiors
under João V. The Rococo
altar piece was added after
the earthquake of 1755.
3 On the top floor, a striking
18th-century panorama
depicts Lisbon before the
3 1755 earthquake.
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EXPERIENCE MORE



3 pick-up located at the bottom (Brazil), this giant-sized
of Parque Eduardo VII. There
statue stands with arms
Praça Marquês de is also a multilingual booth outstretched on the south
Pombal where visitors can buy tickets bank of the Tagus river. The
impressive 28-m- (92-ft-) tall
and plan excursions.
EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre Pombal 4 " sculpted by Francisco Franco
@ 711, 712, 720 & many
figure of Christ, mounted on
other routes q Marquês de
an 82-m (269-ft) pedestal, was
At the top of Avenida da
in 1949–59 at the insti gation
Cristo Rei
of Prime Minister Salazar.
Liberdade (p84), traffic
thunders round the “Rotunda”
You can see the monument
⌂ Santuário Nacional do
from various viewpoints in the
(roundabout), as the praça is
Cristo Rei, Alto do Pragal,
also known. At the centre is
city, but it is fun to take a ferry
Almada g from Cais do
from Cais do Sodré to the
a lofty 1934 monument to
Sodré to Cacilhas, then
Pombal. The despotic states-
man, who virtually ruled
which until recently was
daily (to 6:45pm Jul–Sep
Portugal from 1750 to 1777,
usually simply known as the
∑ cristorei.pt
Outra Banda, or “other bank”),
stands on the top of the @ 101 # 9:30am–6pm Margem Sul (the south bank,
column, his hand on a lion Modelled on the Cristo then a bus or taxi to the
(a symbol of power) and his Redentor in Rio de Janeiro monument. A lift, plus some
eyes directed down to the
Baixa, whose creation he
masterminded. Allegorical
images depicting Pombal’s
political, educational and
agricultural reforms decorate
the base of the monument.
Although greatly feared, this
dynamic politician propelled
the country into the Age of
Enlightenment. Broken blocks
of stone at the foot of the
monu ment and tidal waves
flooding the city are an alle-
gory of the destruction caused
by the 1755 earthquake.
Nearby, the well-tended
Parque Eduardo VII (p129)
extends northwards behind
the square. The paving stones
around the Rotunda are dec-
orated with a mosaic of
Lisbon’s coat of arms. Many
of the city’s sightseeing
operators have their main
INSIDER TIP
River Views
Take the passenger
ferry from Cais do Sodré
across the Tagus to the
little port of Cacilhas,
where you’ll find many
riverfront seafood
restaurants and great
views of Lisbon back The mammoth Cristo
across the water. Rei statue, soaring
high into the sky
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Expansive views of the
city from the miradouro
of Parque Eduardo VII

steps take you up 82 m (269 ft) a pleasant café. The vantage
to the top of the pedestal, point at the summit of the
affording fine views of the city park offers fine, sweeping
and river below. views of the city. On clear days
you can see as far as the Serra STAY
da Arrábida, a nature reserve
located 40km (25 miles) from
5 "- the city centre (p161). Real Parque
Parque Eduardo VII Situated in the northwest Ideally located near
corner, the most inspiring Lisbon’s main park,
⌂ Praça Marquês de Pombal Eduardo VII, Real
§ 213 882 278 @ 711, 712, feature of this park is the Parque offers large
jungle-like Estufa Fria, or
720 q Marquês de Pombal greenhouse, where exotic elegant rooms, some
# Estufa Fria: 10am–7pm of which have a
daily (Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm) plants, streams and waterfalls spacious terrace.
¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec provide serene respite from ⌂ Avenida Luís
the city streets. At this urban
Central Lisbon’s largest oasis there are in fact three Bívar 67, Picoas
∑ realparque.
park was named in honour of green houses: in the Estufa realhotelsgroup.com
King Edward VII of the United Fria (cold greenhouse), palms
Kingdom who came to Lisbon push through the slatted ¡¡¡
in 1902 to reaffirm the Anglo- bamboo roof and paths wind
Portuguese alliance. through a forest of ferns, Sheraton
The wide grassy slope, fuchsias, flowering shrubs and This prominent
which extends for 25 hectares banana trees; the warmer high-rise hotel features
(62 acres) was laid out as Estufa Quente and Estufa stylish rooms with
Parque de Liberdade, a Doce are filled with tropical superb views, and a
continuation of Avenida da plants, water-lily ponds and 24-hour fitness centre.
Liberdade (p82) in the late impressive cacti. It’s also a convenient
19th century. Neatly clipped Near the estufas a pond 15-minute drive from
box hedging, flanked by with large carp and a galleon- Lisbon airport.
mosaic patterned walkways, shaped play area are popu lar ⌂ Rua Latino
stretches uphill from the with children. On the east Coelho 1, Picoas
Praça Marquês de Pombal to a side, the Pavilhão Carlos ∑ sheratonlisboa.com
bel vedere at the top. Here you Lopes, named after the 1984 ¡¡¡
will find a flower-filled garden Olympic marathon winner, was
dedicated to the memory of extensively refurbished in 2016
renowned Portuguese fado and is now used for concerts,
singer Amália Rodrigues, and exhibitions and conferences.
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EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre














Ponte 25 de Abril
illuminated at night, with
the city lights behind

6 resolved by the opening of One of the best places to head
for is the Doca de Santo
the 11­km (7­mile) Vasco da
Ponte 25 de Abril Gama bridge. Spanning the Amaro, a largely enclosed dock
Tagus river from Montijo to that sits below the humming
@ 753
Sacavém, north of the Parque traffic of the dramatic Ponte
Once called the Ponte Salazar das Nações, this bridge was 25 de Abril. The inner edge of
after the dictator who had it completed in 1998. the docks is lined with for mer
built in 1966, Lisbon’s suspen­ warehouses, converted in the
sion bridge was renamed to 1990s and now housing cafés,
commemorate the revolution restaurants and bars with fine
of 25 April 1974 that restored 7 \- views over the water. These
democracy to Portugal (p47). Doca de Santo Amaro tend to be popular, and tables
Inspired by San Francisco’s on the outside terraces get
Golden Gate Bridge in the @ 714, 727, 732, 751, 756 snapped up quickly.
v 15 £ Alcântara-Mar
US, this steel construction Beneath the bridge to the
stretches for 2 km (1 mile). The In the early 1930s, Lisbon’s west of the docks is a strange,
lower tier was modified in 1999 docks at Alcântara were the
to accommodate the Fertagus, city’s main access point. As
a railway across the Tagus. the importance of the docks Brisé fan from China
The bridge’s notorious traffic declined, the once­industrial in the Fundação
congestion has been partly riverside has been opened up. Oriente Museu

GREAT VIEW
Ponte 25 de Abril
For a unique experience
take the lift up Pillar 7
of this landmark bridge,
which off ers unbroken
views across the river
and the city's south
bank from 80 m (262 ft)
above the waves.
Tickets cost around €6.


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boomerang-shaped structure, trace the development of
designed to stop falling debris. Lisbon’s public transport. You
Continue past this and it’s a can then take a fun trip on a
nice 20-minute walk to Belém. tram to the other two zones,
which are filled with historic SHOP
trams and buses, including
early horse-drawn varieties.
8 "\-= Down by the river at the Colombo
Fundação Oriente bottom of the site, a collection Shopping Centre
Museu of old shipping containers and This is Lisbon’s largest
double-decker buses make up shopping centre. The
⌂ Avenida Brasília, Doca sprawling complex
de Alcântara Norte @ 712, Village Underground, an houses over 340 stores,
innovative work space for
714, 728, 738, 742 # 10am– including many well­
6pm Tue–Sun (to 10pm Fri) Lisbon’s creative set. known brands, more
∑ museudooriente.pt than 60 restaurants
and an IMAX cinema.
This museum and cultural ⌂ Avenida Lusiada
centre is dedicated to showing 10 \-= ∑ colombo.pt
the historical and cultural LX Factory
links between Portugal and its ⌂ Rua Rodrigues Faria 103
former colonies in the East. @ 201, 742, 751, 756, 760 El Corte Inglés
The permanent exhibition ∑ lxfactory.com A large department
is split into two collections. store with a fantastic
The Portuguese Presence in Virtually beneath the Ponte food hall, supermarket
Asia has a selection of exhibits 25 de Abril in a slightly shabby and nine floors selling
ranging from furniture and part of town, LX Factory is one everything from home
jewellery to porcelain, paintings of the hippest places in Lisbon. furnishings to designer
clothes. Upmarket
and textiles. Highlights include The complex is inside a huge international brands –
17th- and 18th-century Chinese former textiles plant, with the
and Japanese folding screens warehouses, factory spaces including Ralph Lauren
and Versace – can be
and some rare examples of and courtyards transformed found here.
Namban art – Portuguese- into studios and workshops for
influenced Japanese art of the the arts, fashion and creative ⌂ Avenida António
16th and 17th centuries. media. Woven among them de Aguiar
The second exhibition is the are innovative cafés, bars, ∑ elcorteingles.pt
Kwok On Collection, which fea- restaurants and shops. Visit on
tures the performing arts of a Sunday morning when a lively
vast geographic area exten- flea market takes place.
ding from Turkey to Japan. It
includes fine masks from Asia
and a section on shadow and
puppet theatre from India,
China and Indonesia.

9 "=
Museu da Carris
⌂ Rua 1 de Maiao @ 714,
727, 732 # 10am–6pm Tue–
Sat ∑ museu.carris.pt
Carris is the company that
runs Lisbon’s surface public
transport and this engaging
museum details the history of
a system that has to negotiate
a broad river estuary and
some serious hills since 1872.
Set in a sprawling former
tram depot, the museum is Shelves stacked to
divided into three zones. The the ceiling at a book­
first uses various exhibits to shop in LX Factory
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EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre Neo-Moorish façade







of the bullring in



11 " Campo Pequeno supply is documented with
photo graphs. Particularly
Campo Pequeno inter esting is the exhibit on Did You Know?
the Alfama’s 17th-century
@ 727, 736 q Campo Chafariz d’El Rei, one of The Vasco da Gama
# Pequeno Bullring: 10am–
11pm daily Lisbon’s first fountains. Locals bridge (near the Parque
used to queue at one of six das Nações) is Europe's
This square is dominated by founts, depend ing on their long est, stretching
the red-brick Neo-Moorish social status. 17 km (11 miles).
bullring built in the late 19th
century. The building has
undergone development, and
a car park and leisure centre 13 "\-
have been added. Much of Parque das Nações modern museum of science
the bullring’s distinctive ⌂ Avenida Dom João ll and technology that houses
architecture, such as keyhole- @ 705, 725, 728, 744, 750, several interactive exhibitions.
shaped windows and double 782 q Oriente £ Oriente Spectacular views can be
cupolas, have been retained. had from the cable car that
# Park: 24 hours daily;
Pavilhão do Conhecimento: links the Torre Vasco da
Gama with the marina. The
10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 11am– promen ade along the river
12 " 7pm Sat & Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 24, also offers delightful views,
Museu da Água 25 & 31 Dec ∑ portaldas including of the Vasco da
nacoes.pt
⌂ Rua do Alviela 12 § 218 Gama bridge. Also in the
100 215 @ 735 # 10am– Originally the site of Expo 98, area is the MEO Arena.
5:30pm daily ¢ Public hols Parque das Nações is now a
Lisbon hub. With its contem-
Dedicated to the history of porary architecture and
Lisbon’s water supply, this family-oriented attractions, 14 "\=
informative museum was the park has renewed the Oceanário de Lisboa
imaginatively created around eastern water front, which was ⌂ Esplanada D Carlos 1,
the city’s first steam pumping once an industrial wasteland. Parque das Nações @ 705,
station. It commemo rates The soaring geometry of 725, 728, 744, 750, 782
Manuel da Maia, the 18th- the platform canopies over q Oriente £ Oriente
century engineer behind the Santiago Calatrava’s Oriente # 10am–8pm daily (to 7pm
Águas Livres aqueduct (p134). Station set the architectural Nov–Mar) ∑ oceanario.pt
Pride of place goes to four tone. The Portugal Pavillion
lovingly preserved steam has a large reinforced concrete The main attraction at Parque
engines, one of which still roof suspended like a sailcloth das Nações, the oceanarium
func tions (by electricity). The above its forecourt. was designed by American
development of techno logy Pavilhão do Conhe ci mento – architect Peter Chermayeff
relating to the city’s water Ciencia Viva is a fascinating and is perched on the end of
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The aquarium's vast central tank has a
dazzling variety of fish, large and small.
Sharks co-exist peaceably with bream in
EAT
the softly lit waters.
a pier. It holds an impressive peaceful site outside the city. Eleven
array of species – birds and Now adays it has to contend Michelin-star dining
some mammals as well as fish with the traffic of Campo and stunning city
and other underwater dwellers. Grande. The house itself, how­ views are on offer at
Landscapes represent ever, retains its period charm. this airy, modern
the habitats of the Atlantic, The displays follow the restaurant. Opt for an
Pacific, Indian and Antarctic development of the city, from à la carte or a tasting
oceans, with suitable fauna prehistoric times through the menu – or the lavish
and flora. The aquarium’s vast Romans, Visigoths and Moors, lobster menu,
central tank has a dazzling traced by means of drawings, comprised wholly of
variety of fish, large and small. tiles, paintings, models and the freshest shellfish.
Sharks coexist peaceably with historical documents. Notable ⌂ Rua Marquês da
bream in the softly lit waters. exhibits are those depicting Fronteira, Jardim
the city before the earth quake Amália Rodrigues
of 1755, including a highly ¢ Sun ∑ restaurant
detailed model made in eleven.com
15 " the 1950s and an im pressive ¡¡¡
Museu de Lisboa 17th­century oil painting by
Dirk Stoop (1610–86) of Terreiro
⌂ Campo Grande 245 O Farol
@ 701, 736, 750 q Campo do Paço, as Praça do Comércio This centuries-old
Grande # 10am–6pm Tue– was known then (p78). One establishment is the
room is devoted to the Águas
Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec Livres aque duct (p134) with best-known seafood
∑ museudelisboa.pt restaurant in Cacilhas.
architectural plans as well as Diners come here to
Palácio Pimenta was allegedly prints and watercolours of delight in the tanks
commissioned by João V for the completed aqueduct. filled with lobsters,
his mistress Madre Paula, a The earthquake theme is great views across the
nun from the nearby convent resumed with pictures of the Tagus river and fine-
at Odivelas. When the mansion city amid the devastation and tasting beer.
was built, in the middle of the various plans for its recon­ ⌂ Alfredo Dinis Alex
18th century, it occupied a struction. The museum brings 1–3, Cacilhas
you into the 20th century with ∑ restaurantefarol.com
a large colour poster celeb­
Visitors watching the rating the Revolution of 1910 ¡¡¡
fish in the central tank and the proclamation of the
at Oceanário de Lisboa new republic (p46). Pastelaria Versailles
A wonderful array
of cakes and pastries
are on offer at this
traditional café, which
dates from the early
1920s. Good-value
lunches are also served,
while the decadent,
cream-topped hot
chocolate makes
a tasty treat on
chilly afternoons.
⌂ Avenida da República
15a, Saldanha
§ 213 546 340
¡¡¡





133



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Both house and garden have
azulejo decoration whose
subjects include battle scenes
and trumpet­blowing monkeys.
Although the palace is still
occupied by the 12th marquis,
some of the living rooms and
the library, as well as the formal
gar dens, are included in the
EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre Imposing arches of scenes of the War of
tour. The Battles Room has
lively tiled panels depicting
Restoration (1640–68), with
a detail of João de Fronteira
fighting a Spanish general.
the Aqueduto das
It was his loyalty to Pedro II
Águas Livres
during this war that earned
him the title of Marquês.
be made between these naive
16 "
17th­century Portuguese tiles
channels, is 58 km (36 miles).
Aqueduto das
and the Delft ones from the
The most visible part of this
Águas Livres including all the secondary Interesting comparisons can
same period in the dining
imposing structure are the 35
arches crossing the Alcântara room, depicting naturalistic
⌂ Best seen from Calçada valley, the tallest of which rise scenes. The dining room is
da Quintinha @ 774, 783 to 65 m (213 ft) above the city. also decorated with frescoed
# 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun;
Mãe d’Água das Amor eiras: It is possible to take guided panels and portraits of
10am–12:30pm, 1:30–5:30 tours over the Alcântara arches. Portuguese nobility.
The late 16th­century chapel
There are also tours of the
Tue–Sat ¢ Public hols
Mãe d’Água reservoir and trips is the oldest part of the house.
Considered the most beautiful to the Mãe d’Água springs. The façade is adorned with
sight in Lisbon at the turn of Contact the Museu da Água stones, shells, broken glass
the 20th century, the impress­ (p132) for details of the trips. and bits of china. These
ive structure of the Aqueduto At the end of the aqueduct, fragments of crockery are
das Águas Livres looms over the Mãe d’Água das Amoreiras believed to have been used
the Alcântara valley northwest is a castle­like building that at the feast inaugurating the
of the city. The construction of served as a reservoir for the
an aque duct gave João V (p45) water supplied from the
an opportunity to indulge his aqueduct. Today the space is
passion for grandiose build ing used for art exhibitions, fashion
schemes, as the only area of shows and other events.
Lisbon with fresh drinking
water was the Alfama. A tax
on meat, wine, olive oil and
other comestibles funded the 17 "'
project, and although not com­ Palácio Fronteira
plete until the 19th century, it ⌂ Largo São Domingos de
was already supplying the city Benfica 1 § 217 782 023
with water by 1748. The main
pipeline measures 19 km @ 770 q Jardim Zoológico
£ Benfica # By tour
(12 miles), but the total length,
only Jun–Sep: 10:30am,
11am, 11:30am, noon;
Oct–May: 11am, noon
¢ Sun, public hols
Did You Know?
This country manor house was
Aqueduto das Águas built as a hunting pavilion for
Livres only stopped João de Mascarenhas, the first
supplying water for Marquês de Fronteira, in 1640.
human consumption in Although skyscrapers are
the 1960s. visible in the distance, it still
occupies a quiet spot, by the
Parque Florestal de Monsanto.
134
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colourful majolica reliefs (Costume Museum) has a
INSIDER TIP adorn the arcades. More blue vast collection of textiles,
Catch a Match and white tiled scenes, accessories and costumes
Benfica, one of Europe’s realistic and allegorical, worn by people of note.
leading football clubs, decorate the wall at the far The Museu Nacional do
play their home games end of the garden. Teatro has two buildings, one
in a stadium just 30 devoted to temporary exhibi­
minutes’ walk from tions, the other containing a
the Palácio Fronteira. small perm anent collection.
Fans can buy tickets 18 " Photographs, posters and
directly from the Parque do cartoons feature famous
stadium or online. Monteiro-Mor 20th­century Portuguese
actors and one section is
⌂ Largo Júlio Castilho § 217
567 620 @ 703, 736, 796 devoted to Amália Rodrigues,
palace and then smashed to q Lumiar # Park: 2–6pm the famous fado singer (p36).
ensure no one else could sup Tue, 10am–10pm Wed–Sun
off the same set. Visits to the Museu Nacional do Traje
garden start at the chapel Monteiro­Mor park was sold " # 2–6pm Tue, 10am–
terrace, where tiled niches to the state in 1975 and the 6pm Wed–Sun ∑ museu
are decorated with figures 18th­century palace buildings dotraje.gov.pt
personifying the arts and were converted to museums.
mythological creatures. The gardens are attractive; Museu Nacional do Teatro
In the formal Italian garden much of the land is wooded, " # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
the immaculate box hedges though the area around the ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
are cut into shapes to represent museums has gardens with 25 Dec ∑ museudoteatro
the seasons of the year. To one flowering shrubs, duck ponds edanca.gov.pt
end, tiled scenes of dashing and tropical trees.
knights on horse back, repre­ The slightly old­fashioned
senting ancestors of the Museu Nacional do Traje
Fronteira family, are reflected
in the waters of a large tank.
On either side of the water, a Tiled terrace,
grand staircase leads to a decorated with
terrace above. Here, decorative figures (inset), leading
niches contain the busts of to the chapel of the
Portuguese kings and Palácio Fronteira






























135



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CENTRAL


PORTUGAL









The Lisbon Coast ..............................144

Estremadura and Ribatejo ............166

The Beiras ...........................................190






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The town of Coimbra, dominated by its hilltop university



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Porto Porto PORTO
PORTO
EXPLORE de Paiva de Paiva Penedono Penedono de Foz Côa Lumbrales Lumbrales
Vila Nova
Vila Nova
de Foz Côa
Castelo
Castelo
CENTRAL Ovar Ovar Arouca Castro Castro V I S E U Sernancelhe Aguiar Trancoso Pinhel S P A I N
Sernancelhe
Daire
Daire
Arouca
Pinhel
V I S E U
S P A I N
Trancoso
Aguiar
AVEIRO
THE BEIRAS
AVEIRO
da Beira
PORTUGAL Caramulo Caramulo p190 Mangualde Mangualde da Beira da Beira G U A R D A Vilar Rodrigo Rodrigo
THE BEIRAS da Beira
Almeida
Almeida
p190
Celorico
Celorico
Viseu
Viseu
G U A R D A
Ciudad
Ciudad
Vilar
Formoso
Tondela
Tondela
Águeda
Águeda
Guarda Guarda Formoso
Gouveia Gouveia
Praia de Miraa
Praia de Mir
Sabugueiro
This section divides Central Portugal into three colour-coded Sabugueiro Manteigas Manteigas Sabugal Sabugal
sightseeing areas, as shown on this map. Find out more Mealhada Mealhada
about each area on the following pages. Sortelha Sortelha
C O I M B R A Avô Covilhã Covilhã
C O I M B R A Avô
Montemo Montemo
o-Velhor o-Velhor
Coimbra Coimbra Arganil Arganil Penamacor Penamacor
Figueira da Foz Fundão Fundão
Figueira da Foz
Porciones Porciones
Conímbriga
Conímbriga Monsanto Monsanto
Rio Zêzere Rio Zêzere
Idanha-a-Velha
Idanha-a-Velha
Penela Penela
C A S T E L O
Pombal Pombal C A S T E L O
B R A N C O
B R A N C O
Leiria Leiria Castelo Castelo
São Pedro de Muel
São Pedro de Muel Branco Branco
L E I R I A
L E I R I A Alcántara Alcántara
A tl A tl anticantic Batalha Batalha
Tomar
Nazaré Nazaré Fátima Fátima Tomar
Oc ean
Oc ean São Martinho Vila Velha Vila Velha
São Martinho
de Rodão
de Rodão
do Porto do Porto Alcobaça Alcobaça Torres Torres Membrío Membrío
Tejo (Tagus)
Novas Novas Abrantes Abrantes Tejo (Tagus) Arroyo de Arroyo de
ESTREMADURA
ESTREMADURA Castelo de Vide la Luz la Luz
Castelo de Vide
AND RIBATEJO
Peniche Peniche AND RIBATEJO Almourel Almourel
S P A I N
p166 p166 S P A I N
S A N T A R É M
Óbidos Óbidos Rio Maior Rio Maior S A N T A R É M
Crato Crato
Alpiarça Alpiarça
Lourinhã Lourinhã
Alburquerque
Ponte de Sor
Portalegre
Santarém Santarém Ponte de Sor Portalegre Alburquerque
Almeirim Almeirim
PORTALEGRE
Torres Torres PORTALEGRE
Vedras Vedras
Alenquer Alenquer La Roca de La Roca de
Campo Maior
PORTUGAL Tejo (Tagus) Tejo (Tagus) Campo Maior la Sierra la Sierra
Mafra Mafra Coruche Coruche Sousel Sousel
Ericeira Ericeira
Alverca Vila Franca Vila Franca Mora Mora
Alverca
de Xira
de Xira
LISBOA LISBOA Estremoz Estremoz Elvas Elvas Badajoz Badajoz
Colares Colares Sintra
Sintra
Évora Monte
Alcochete Alcochete Évora Monte
LISBON LISBON Arraiolos Arraiolos Alandroal Alandroal Olivenza Olivenza
THE THE Santa Santa
Marta
É V O R A
LISBON COAST
LISBON COAST Montemor- É V O R A Redondo Redondo Almendral Almendral Marta
Montemor-
Costa da Costa da p144 p144 o-Novo o-Novo
Caparica Caparica Rio Guadiana Rio Guadiana
Setúbal Setúbal Évora Évora
Monsaraz Monsaraz
Tróia Tróia
Sesimbra Sesimbra Alcácer Alcácer Reguengos Reguengos
do Sal do Sal Villanueva Villanueva
deMonsaraz
Viana do Viana do deMonsaraz del Fresno del Fresno Jerez de Jerez de
Baía de Baía de Alentejo Alentejo los Caballe los Caballerosros
Setúbal Setúbal
SETÚBAL
SETÚBAL
Alvito Alvito
0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 25 25 N N
BEJA BEJA
Grândola Grândola 0 miles 0 miles 25 25
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Porto Porto
PORTO PORTO
Vila Nova Vila Nova
de Foz Côa
Castelo Castelo Penedono Penedono de Foz Côa
de Paiva de Paiva Lumbrales Lumbrales
Castro Castro
Sernancelhe
Ovar Ovar Arouca Daire Daire Sernancelhe
Arouca
V I S E U V I S E U Pinhel Pinhel S P A I N
S P A I N
Trancoso
AVEIRO THE BEIRAS Aguiar Aguiar Trancoso
AVEIRO
THE BEIRAS da Beira
da Beira
p190 p190 Almeida Almeida
Celorico Celorico
Viseu Viseu da Beira da Beira G U A R D A
G U A R D A
Ciudad
Ciudad
Caramulo Caramulo Mangualde Mangualde Vilar Vilar Rodrigo Rodrigo
Águeda Águeda Tondela Tondela Formoso Formoso
Guarda Guarda
Gouveia Gouveia
Praia de Miraa
Praia de Mir
Sabugueiro
Sabugueiro Manteigas Manteigas
Mealhada Mealhada Sabugal Sabugal
Sortelha Sortelha
C O I M B R A Avô Covilhã Covilhã
C O I M B R A Avô
Montemo Montemo
o-Velhor o-Velhor
Coimbra Coimbra Arganil Arganil Penamacor
Penamacor
Figueira da Foz
Figueira da Foz Fundão Fundão
Porciones Porciones
Conímbriga Monsanto Monsanto
Conímbriga
Rio Zêzere Rio Zêzere
Idanha-a-Velha
Idanha-a-Velha
Penela Penela
C A S T E L O
Pombal Pombal C A S T E L O
B R A N C O
B R A N C O
Leiria Leiria Castelo Castelo
São Pedro de Muel Branco Branco
São Pedro de Muel
L E I R I A
L E I R I A Alcántara Alcántara
A tl A tl anticantic Batalha Batalha
Tomar
Nazaré Nazaré Fátima Fátima Tomar
Oc ean
Oc ean São Martinho Vila Velha Vila Velha
São Martinho
de Rodão
de Rodão
do Porto do Porto Alcobaça Alcobaça Torres Torres Membrío Membrío
Tejo (Tagus)
Novas Novas Abrantes Abrantes Tejo (Tagus) Arroyo de Arroyo de
ESTREMADURA Castelo de Vide la Luz la Luz
ESTREMADURA
Castelo de Vide
AND RIBATEJO
Peniche Peniche AND RIBATEJO Almourel Almourel
S P A I N
p166 p166 S P A I N
S A N T A R É M
Óbidos Óbidos Rio Maior Rio Maior S A N T A R É M
Crato Crato
Alpiarça Alpiarça
Lourinhã Lourinhã
Ponte de Sor
Alburquerque
Portalegre
Santarém Santarém Ponte de Sor Portalegre Alburquerque
Almeirim Almeirim
PORTALEGRE
Torres Torres PORTALEGRE
Vedras Vedras
Tejo (Tagus) Tejo (Tagus) Campo Maior la Sierra la Sierra
Alenquer Alenquer La Roca de La Roca de
Campo Maior
Mafra Mafra Coruche Coruche Sousel Sousel
Ericeira Ericeira
Alverca
Alverca Vila Franca Vila Franca Mora Mora
de Xira
de Xira
LISBOA
LISBOA Estremoz Estremoz Elvas Elvas Badajoz Badajoz
Colares Colares Sintra
Sintra
Évora Monte
Alcochete Alcochete Évora Monte
LISBON LISBON Arraiolos Arraiolos Alandroal Alandroal Olivenza Olivenza
THE THE Santa Santa
Marta
É V O R A
LISBON COAST Montemor- Montemor- É V O R A Redondo Redondo Almendral Almendral Marta
LISBON COAST
Costa da Costa da p144 p144 o-Novo o-Novo
Caparica Caparica Rio Guadiana Rio Guadiana
Setúbal Setúbal Évora Évora
Monsaraz Monsaraz
Tróia Tróia
Sesimbra Sesimbra Alcácer Alcácer Reguengos Reguengos
do Sal do Sal Villanueva Villanueva
deMonsaraz
Viana do Viana do deMonsaraz del Fresno del Fresno Jerez de Jerez de
Baía de Baía de Alentejo Alentejo los Caballe los Caballerosros
Setúbal Setúbal
SETÚBAL
S ETÚBA L
Alvito Alvito
0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 25 25 N N
BEJA BEJA
Grândola Grândola 0 miles 0 miles 25 25
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GETTING TO KNOW


CENTRAL


PORTUGAL
EXPERIENCE Central Portugal A varied landscape lies between Portugal’s capital and Porto. Forested





hills overlook wild waves on the Lisbon coast, while Estremadura and the
Ribatejo mix empty beaches and quaint fishing villages with lush farmland.
Further north, the Beiras is home to the vine-clad valleys of the Dão wine
region, bleak highlands and fortress towns.






























THE LISBON COAST Best for
Hilltop palaces and
PAGE 144 Breathtaking beaches and fairy-tale castles seem a fashionable resorts
Home to
world away from the hustle and bustle of the capital,
but it’s only a 90-minute drive to the Lisbon Coast.
The resorts of Costa da Caparica and Sesimbra, sheltered Palácio Nacional da Pena, Palácio
Nacional de Queluz, Palácio
by the verdant Serra da Arrábida, lie to the south, while Nacional de Sintra
to the north you’ll find the wooded slopes of Sintra, Experience
dotted with stunning summer palaces. It is not hard to Arroz de marisco, a flavoursome
see how the town inspired Hans Christian Andersen’s seafood rice, at a seafront eatery
fairy tales or why Lord Byron proclaimed it a “glorious
Eden”. The coast is also a surfers’ paradise as fierce
Atlantic waves batter the area around Ericeira.


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ESTREMADURA Best for
Historic buildings and
PAGE 166 AND RIBATEJO buffeted beaches
Home to
Between the Tagus and the coast lie the rolling hills,
rugged cliffs and sandy beaches of Estremadura. In
Santa Maria da Vitória, Tomar’s
contrast, vineyard-strewn Ribatejo is a vast alluvial Alcobaça, Batalha’s Mosteiro de
plain lying along the riverbanks. Here, Portugal’s finest Convento de Cristo
medieval monasteries bear witness to an illustrious, if Experience
turbulent, past. Ancient Tomar and picture-perfect A surfing lesson at Baleal,
Óbidos are congenial bases from which to visit the the ideal spot for beginners
great abbey at Batalha or the modern shrine at Fátima.
There are beach resorts aplenty, too.




















THE BEIRAS Best for
Unspoilt, mountainous terrain
PAGE 190 Ranging from the Spanish frontier to the sea, the Home to
Beiras is a bulwark between the cool green north
Aveiro, Coimbra and its
and the parched south. Here you’ll find the country’s
highest mountains in the Serra da Estrela, the flat salt university, Buçaco,
Serra da Estrela
marshes of the Ria de Aveiro and the busy seaside Experience
resort of Figueira da Foz. Use stately old university city A boat trip in a colourful
of Coimbra as a base for visiting the Roman ruins of moliceiro on Aveiro’s
Conímbriga and the magical forest of Buçaco, with atmospheric waterways
its crumbling grottoes. Inland, the charming town of
Viseu is an ideal stopover on the way to the medieval
strongholds of Guarda, Almeida and Monsanto.


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EXPERIENCE Central Portugal 1 2








With palaces, beaches and traditional
villages to see, journey out from the
captivating capital to explore the heart
of Central Portugal.
7 DAYS





In Central Portugal 4


Day 1
Afternoon Have lunch at one of Ericeira’s
Morning From Lisbon, head north on the fine fish restaurants before spending the
A37 to hilltop Sintra (p148). The conical rest of the day relaxing on the beach. The
chimneys of the 14th-century Palácio Praça da Rebública is always buzzing with
Nacional de Sintra (p150) herald the the sounds of revelry in the evening.
pastel-hued old town, which is
surrounded by dewy forests. Day 3
Afternoon Enjoy a light lunch at Saudade
(p159). The jungle-like gardens of Morning After exploring the winding
Monserrate (p158) on the N247 were alleys of whitewashed Ericeira, drive the
immortalized in Lord Byron’s Childe coastal N247 north to Baleal, a lovely islet
Harold’s Pilgrimage. It’s not hard to see village with a beach on either side of the
why he was inspired by them. Return to spit (p178).
Sintra to spend the night at the modern Afternoon Lunch on the beach, then take
Moon Hill Hostel (p157). the IP6 to picturesque Óbidos, which was
famously once gifted to the bride of a
Day 2 Portuguese king (p179). Spend a night at
the Pousada Castelo Óbidos hotel, housed
Morning Start the day with a visit to the in the town’s medieval castle (p179).
amazing 19th-century Palácio Nacional da
Pena (p152), the bizarre former summer
retreat of Portuguese royalty. Don’t forget Day 4
to explore Parque da Pena (p149) – the
romantic wood lands – which is home Morning Take the scenic route north
to quaint little grottoes. Your next stop to Coimbra via the historic abbeys of
is the former fishing village of Ericeira Alcobaça (p170) and Santa Maria da
(p157), which is a 30-minute drive away Vitória (p172), and the bustling
on the N247. resort of Nazaré (p181).
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3





5

1 The view from the cloisters
of Santa Maria da Victória.
2 The pretty town of Ericeira.
3 Sintra’s Palácio da Pena.
4 A dam in the Parque
Natural da Serra da Estrela.
5 Miradouro de Santa Luzia.


Afternoon After watching the waves the IC6 to the park, where you can drive
crashing on the beach, visit the Baroque right to the top of the mainland’s highest
church of Nossa Senhora da Nazaré. Join summit, Torre (p204).
the E1 to continue your journey to Afternoon After hiking one of the many
Coimbra (p196). There are plenty of busy trails that crisscross the mountains,
bars in this historic city, but for a truly taking in waterfalls, otherworldly granite
unique experience head to a fado club. formations and medieval castles, spend
the night in sleepy Linhares in the heart
Day 5 of the park (p205).
Morning Coimbra’s ancient university was Day 7
founded in 1290, making it one of the
oldest in Europe (p200). Don’t miss its Morning Head back to Lisbon on the A13
Baroque library, the Biblioteca Joanina. via the lovely riverside town of Tomar,
Afternoon Pick up all you need for stopping to explore the mighty Convento
a picnic and spend the afternoon de Cristo, a fortress convent dating from
admiring the impressive nearby ruins the 12th century (p176).
of Conímbriga (p209). It’s hard not to Afternoon Back in the capital, take the
imagine Roman life as you explore the clacking tram 28 up to Alfama and watch
country’s most important Roman site. the sunset from the Miradouro de Santa
Return to Coimbra for the evening. Luzia (p67). End the day – and your trip –
at A Baiuca, where sorrowful fado singers
entertain you as you dine (p71).
Day 6
Morning Inland Portugal has some
magnificent wild terrain, such as the
Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela. Take
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The old fishing port of Carrasqueira, on the Península de Tróia



























THE LISBON

COAST




Within an hour’s drive northwest of Lisbon you can
reach Portugal’s rocky Atlantic coast. Traders and
invaders, from the Phoenicians to the Spanish,
have left their mark on this region – in particular
the Moors, whose forts and castles, rebuilt many
times over the centuries, can be found all along
the coast. After Lisbon became the country’s
capital in 1256, Portuguese kings and nobles built
summer palaces and villas in the countryside west
of the city, and on the cool, green heights of the
Serra de Sintra. Along the “Portuguese Riviera”,
wealthy Lisboetas have been building holiday
villas in the seaside resort of Cascais as far back
as the late 19th century.
Neighbouring Estoril became fashionable when
exiled European royalty moved there during World
War II; in its heyday, the town became a hotbed for
spies, including Ian Fleming, who recreated Estoril’s
casino in his first James Bond novel. Across the
Tagus, the less fashionable southern shore could
be reached only by ferry until the Ponte 25 de Abril
was built in 1966. This swiftly opened up the long
sandy beaches of the Costa da Caparica, the coast
around the fishing town of Sesimbra and even the
remote Tróia peninsula as popular summer resorts.
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Azambuja Azambuja
ESTREMADURAESTREMADURA
AND RIBATEJOAND RIBATEJO Alenquer Alenquer
Runa Runa
p164 p164 Carnota Carnota
EncarnaçãoEncarnação Turcifal Turcifal Carregado Carregado
Sobral deSobral de
Monte Agraço
Monte Agraço
Ribamar Ribamar
Castanheira do
Castanheira do
Santo IsidoroSanto Isidoro Ribatejo Ribatejo
Aveiras de Aveiras de
Vila Franca do Vila Franca do Cima Cima
Rosário Rosário
Murgeira Murgeira
ERICEIRAERICEIRA Sobreiro Sobreiro Arranhó Arranhó
Vila Franca Vila Franca
Milharado Milharado de Xira de Xira Samora Samora
PALÁCIO DE MAFRAPALÁCIO DE MAFRA Correia Correia
Malveira Malveira
Bucelas Bucelas
LISBO ALISBO A Alverca do Alverca do
Ribatejo Ribatejo
CheleirosCheleiros ReservaReserva
São João dasSão João das Lousa Lousa Natural doNatural do
Lampas Lampas EstuárioEstuário
Póvoa de Póvoa de do Tejodo Tejo
Pero PinheiroPero Pinheiro Santa IriaSanta Iria
Azenhas do MarAzenhas do Mar Loures Loures S ANT ARÉMS ANT ARÉM
InfantadoInfantado
Praia das MaçãsPraia das Maçãs
Caneças Caneças São João São João o
COLARESCOLARES da Talha da Talha T e j u s ) o j u s ) Catapereiro Catapereiro
Odivelas Odivelas Sacavém Sacavém g T e g
C abo da C abo da SINTRASINTRA Portela Portela T a T a
Airport
Airport
Ro c a Ro c a Belas Belas ( (
MONSERRATEMONSERRATE Canha Canha
S e r r a d e S i n t r a PALÁCIO NACIONAL PALÁCIO NACIONAL ALCOCHETE
S e r r a d e S i n t r a
ALCOCHETE
Malveira da SerraMalveira da Serra DE QUELUZDE QUELUZ Ribeira de Canha
Ribeira de Canha
Alcabideche
Alcabideche
Guincho Guincho SamoucoSamouco
Caxias Caxias LISBONLISBON Montijo Montijo
Atalaia Atalaia
ESTORILESTORIL Oeiras Pegões Velhos Pegões Pegões
Oeiras
Pegões Velhos
Boca do InfernoBoca do Inferno
CASCAISCASCAIS Almada Almada Rio Frio Rio Frio
CarcavelosCarcavelos Trafaria Trafaria BarreiroBarreiro
Moita Moita
COSTA DA CAPARICACOSTA DA CAPARICA Areeiro Areeiro Seixal Seixal Poceirão Poceirão ÉV OR AÉV OR A
Santo António
Santo António
da Charneca Pinhal Pinhal
da Charneca
Novo Novo
Coina Coina SETÚB ALSETÚB AL
Marateca Marateca
A tl anticA tl antic Águas Águas
PALMELAPALMELA de Mourade Moura ALENTEJOALENTEJO
Oc eanOc ean Marco do Griloo do Grilo p292 p292
Marc
Vila Fresca de
Vila Fresca de
Azeitão Azeitão SETÚBALSETÚBAL
Vila Nogueira
Vila Nogueira
Lagoa deLagoa de de Azeitão de Azeitão Casebres Casebres
Albufeira Albufeira Figueirinha Figueirinha Palma Palma
Tróia Tróia ReservaReserva Pinheiros Pinheiros
Ribeira de São Martinho
Alfarim Alfarim SERRA DASERRA DA Natural doNatural do Estação Estação
ARRÁBIDAARRÁBIDA
Santana Santana Estuário do SadoEstuário do Sado
Portinho Portinho PENÍNSULAPENÍNSULA Pinheiro Pinheiro Ribeira de São Martinho
da Arrábida da Arrábida DE TRÓIADE TRÓIA
Nossa Senhora R i o S a d o
Nossa Senhora
SESIMBRA
do Cabo do Cabo SESIMBRA
R i o S a d o
MontalvoMontalvo
CABO ESPICHEL
CABO ESPICHEL
Baía de
Baía de
Santa Maria do Castelo
Santa Maria do Castelo
Setúbal
THE LISBONTHE LISBON Setúbal ComportaComporta
COAST COAST ALCÁCER DO SALALCÁCER DO SAL
0 kilometres0 kilometres 7 7 N N
0 miles 0 miles 7 7
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Azambuja Azambuja
ESTREMADURAESTREMADURA
AND RIBATEJOAND RIBATEJO Alenquer Alenquer THE LISBON COAST
Runa Runa
p164 p164
Carnota Carnota
EncarnaçãoEncarnação Turcifal Turcifal Carregado Carregado Must Sees 8 Cascais
Sobral deSobral de
Monte Agraço
Monte Agraço 1 Sintra 9 Alcochete
Ribamar Ribamar
Castanheira do 2 Palácio Nacional de Queluz 0 Costa da Caparica
Castanheira do
Santo IsidoroSanto Isidoro Ribatejo Ribatejo
Aveiras de Aveiras de q Sesimbra
Vila Franca do Vila Franca do Cima Cima Experience More
Rosário Rosário w Cabo Espichel
ERICEIRAERICEIRA Sobreiro Sobreiro Arranhó Arranhó 3 Palácio de Mafra e Palmela
Murgeira Murgeira
Vila Franca Vila Franca 4 Colares r Serra da Arrábida
Milharado Milharado de Xira de Xira Samora Samora 5 Ericeira
PALÁCIO DE MAFRAPALÁCIO DE MAFRA Correia Correia t Península de Tróia
Malveira Malveira 6 Monserrate y Setúbal
7 Estoril
Bucelas Bucelas u Alcácer do Sal
LISBO ALISBO A Alverca do Alverca do
Ribatejo Ribatejo
CheleirosCheleiros ReservaReserva
São João dasSão João das Lousa Lousa Natural doNatural do
Lampas Lampas EstuárioEstuário
Póvoa de Póvoa de do Tejodo Tejo
Pero PinheiroPero Pinheiro Santa IriaSanta Iria
Azenhas do MarAzenhas do Mar Loures Loures S ANT ARÉMS ANT ARÉM
InfantadoInfantado
Praia das MaçãsPraia das Maçãs
Caneças Caneças São João São João o
COLARESCOLARES da Talha da Talha T e j u s ) o j u s ) Catapereiro Catapereiro
Odivelas Odivelas Sacavém Sacavém g T e g
C abo da C abo da SINTRASINTRA Portela Portela T a T a
Airport
Airport
Ro c a Ro c a Belas Belas ( (
MONSERRATEMONSERRATE Canha Canha
S e r r a d e S i n t r a
S e r r a d e S i n t r a PALÁCIO NACIONAL PALÁCIO NACIONAL ALCOCHETE
ALCOCHETE
Malveira da SerraMalveira da Serra DE QUELUZDE QUELUZ Ribeira de Canha
Ribeira de Canha
Alcabideche
Alcabideche
Guincho Guincho SamoucoSamouco
Caxias Caxias LISBONLISBON Montijo Montijo
Atalaia Atalaia
ESTORILESTORIL Oeiras Pegões Velhos Pegões Pegões
Oeiras
Pegões Velhos
Boca do InfernoBoca do Inferno
CASCAISCASCAIS Almada Almada Rio Frio Rio Frio
CarcavelosCarcavelos Trafaria Trafaria BarreiroBarreiro
Moita Moita
COSTA DA CAPARICACOSTA DA CAPARICA Areeiro Areeiro Seixal Seixal Poceirão Poceirão ÉV OR AÉV OR A
Santo António
Santo António
da Charneca
da Charneca Pinhal Pinhal
Novo Novo
Coina Coina SETÚB ALSETÚB AL
Marateca Marateca
A tl anticA tl antic Águas Águas
PALMELAPALMELA de Mourade Moura ALENTEJOALENTEJO
Oc eanOc ean Marco do Griloo do Grilo p292 p292
Marc
Vila Fresca de
Vila Fresca de
Azeitão Azeitão SETÚBALSETÚBAL
Vila Nogueira
Vila Nogueira
Lagoa deLagoa de de Azeitão de Azeitão Casebres Casebres
Albufeira Albufeira Figueirinha Figueirinha Palma Palma
Ribeira de São Martinho
Tróia Tróia ReservaReserva Pinheiros Pinheiros
Alfarim Alfarim SERRA DASERRA DA Natural doNatural do Estação Estação
ARRÁBIDAARRÁBIDA
Santana Santana Estuário do SadoEstuário do Sado
Portinho Portinho PENÍNSULAPENÍNSULA Pinheiro Pinheiro Ribeira de São Martinho
da Arrábida da Arrábida DE TRÓIADE TRÓIA
Nossa Senhora R i o S a d o
Nossa Senhora
SESIMBRA
do Cabo do Cabo SESIMBRA
R i o S a d o
MontalvoMontalvo
CABO ESPICHEL
CABO ESPICHEL
Baía de
Baía de
Santa Maria do Castelo
Santa Maria do Castelo
Setúbal
THE LISBONTHE LISBON Setúbal ComportaComporta
COAST COAST ALCÁCER DO SALALCÁCER DO SAL
7
0 kilometres0 kilometres 7 N N
0 miles 0 miles 7 7
146-147_EW_Portugal.indd 147 20/09/2018 10:40

EXPERIENCE The Lisbon Coast Sintra’s spectacular











the Palácio Nacional

1 skyline, dominated by 3 "'\-
SINTRA Quinta da Regaleira

⌂ Rua Barbosa du Bocage
@ 435 # 9:30am–6pm
! D5 ⌂ 29 km (18 miles) NW of Lisbon £ @ Avenida Dr daily (to 8pm Apr–Sep) Centro Cultural Museu
Miguel Bombarda; bus 434 runs from station to all the ∑ regaleira.pt 0 metres 250 N O. Cadaval das Artes
major sights n Praça da República 23; 219 231 157 de Sintra
Built between 1904 and 1910, 0 yards 250 E ST R . M O N T E SANTOS RU A CÂMAR A P E STAN A
Sintra’s stunning setting on the north slopes of the this palace and its extensive ESTEFÂNIA C AMBOURNAC
AV. DESIDÉRO
granite Serra made it a favourite summer retreat for gardens are a feast of histor-
the kings of Portugal – resulting in the construction ical and religious references, A L A ME DA D OS CO M. AV. HELIODORO SALGADO 200 metres
of a number of quirkily spectacular palaces. Today, occult symbols and mystery. DA GU ERR A (220 yards)
the town (recognized as a UNESCO Cultural Landscape The brainchild of eccentric D. MANUEL I
LARGO
millionaire António Augusto
Site in 1995) draws thousands of visitors all through Carvalho Monteiro, the C A M I N H O A Z E N H A S DAS FORÇA S A RMADAS
AVENIDA M O V IMENTO
the year. Nevertheless, many quiet walks can be found grounds are riddled with E S T R A D A D E M A C E I R A
in the beautiful surrounding wooded hills. secret passages and hidden Câmara R U A D R A L F R E D O D A C O S T A R U A D. FRA N C I S C O D ' ALMEIDA
tunnels. Sintra’s local R U A S O T O M A I O R Municipal
government reclaimed the RIB EI R A Railway
site as a national monument AV. DR BOMB A R DA Station RUA ANDRÉ DE ALBUQUERQUE
RU A DA
1 " 2 " in 1997 and opened it to the Museu de História R UA AU G U S T O F R E I RE
Museu de História Museu das Artes public shortly afterwards. Natural de Sintra Saudade
Natural de Sintra de Sintra Palácio Nacional
de Sintra RIO D O PORT O
CALÇADA
⌂ Rua do Paço 20 § 219 ⌂ Avenida Helliodoro SINTRA VOLTA DO DUCHE RUA DO CONDE DE SEIXAL RUA FRANCIS CO DOS SANTOS
238 563 # 10am–6pm Salgado § 965 233 692 VILA VOLTA DO DUCHE
Fonte
Tue–Fri, 12–6pm Sat & # Apr–Sep: 10am–8pm Tue– Quinta da REPUBLICA Mourisca R UA DE SÃO JOÃO DO CASTELO
PRAÇA DA
Regaleira
Sun ¢ Mon and public hols Fri, 2–8pm Sat & Sun; Oct– RU A DA S MU RTA S CA M I NHO D A AL BA LON GA
Mar: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 12– RUA VISCONDE DE MONSERRATE Parque da
Located in the town’s historic 6pm Sat & Sun ¢ Public hols RUA C. PEDROSO RUA MARECHAL SALDANHA Liberdade
centre, Sintra’s excel lent natural R. B. DU BOCAGE Miradouro
das Murtas
history museum features a This museum displays R. B A R B OSA DO B O CAG E
huge permanent collec tion Portuguese and international Miradouro
da Vigia
of fossils and other ancient artworks, with the permanent Parque da Pena CALÇADA DOS CLÉRIG OS
exhibits dating back several exhibition featuring the E ST RA D A D A P E NA TRAV. D OS ALVARES
millennia. Housed in a striking private collections of Emílio
19th-century building, the Paula Campos and Dórita Santa Maria
museum also hosts regular Castel-Branco, and several Spiral Initiation Castelo dos Mouros CALÇADA DE
temporary exhibitions relat ing landscapes of Sintra dating Wells at the Quinta SÃO PEDRO SÃO PEDRO
to Portugal’s natural history. from the mid-18th century. da Regaleira T R IN DA D E
R U A DA
Palácio Nacional
da Pena
148 Warrior Statue 5 km (3 miles)
800 metres (875 yards)
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Must See
4 "'\- 5 "
Parque da Pena Castelo dos Mouros
⌂ Estra da Pena # Mar– ⌂ Estrada da Pena # Mar– STAY
late Oct: 9:30am–8pm daily; late Oct: 9:30am–8pm daily;
Nov–early Mar: 10am–6pm Nov–early Mar: 10am–6pm Lawrence’s
daily (last adm 1 hour before daily (last adm 1 hour before Spend the night at
closing) ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec closing) ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec Lawrence’s, Sintra’s
∑ parquesdesintra.pt ∑ parquesdesintra.pt oldest hotel famously
A huge park surrounds the Above the old town, the patronized by Lord
Palácio Nacional da Pena, ramparts of the 10th-century Byron in the early
and hidden among the foliage Moorish castle conquered by 1800s. It’s located in an
are gazebos, follies and foun- Afonso Henriques in 1147 18th-century mansion,
tains, and a chalet built by snake over the top of the Serra. within which visitors
Fernando II for his second wife, On a fine day, there are great can expect charmingly
the Countess of Edla, in 1869. views from the castle walls decorated rooms and an
Cruz Alta, the highest point over the old town to Palácio elegant restaurant.
of the Serra at 529 m (1,740 ft), Nacional da Pena and along ⌂ Rua Consiglieri
comm ands spectacular views the coast. Hidden inside the Pedroso 38, 2710-550
of the Serra and surrounding walls is an ancient Moorish Sintra ∑ lawrences
plain. On a nearby crag is a cis tern while the gateway’s hotel.com
statue known as “The carved mono gram (“DFII”) is ¡¡¡
Warrior”, which suppo sedly a remind er that Fernando II
symbolizes the king watching restored the castle in the
over his park and palace. 19th century.



0 metres 250 N Centro Cultural Museu
das Artes
O. Cadaval
de Sintra
RU A CÂMAR A P E STAN A
0 yards 250
AV. HELIODORO SALGADO 200 metres
AV. DESIDÉRO
ESTEFÂNIA C AMBOURNAC
E ST R . M O N T E SANTOS
DA GU ERR A
A L A ME DA D OS CO M.
LARGO (220 yards)
D. MANUEL I DAS FORÇA S A RMADAS
R U A D R A L F R E D O D A C O S T A R U A D. FRA N C I S C O D ' ALMEIDA
AVENIDA M O V IMENTO
C A M I N H O A Z E N H A S
Câmara
E S T R A D A D E M A C E I R A
Municipal
Railway
R U A S O T O M A I O R
Station RUA ANDRÉ DE ALBUQUERQUE
AV. DR BOMB A R DA
RU A DA
RIB EI R A
Museu de História R UA AU G U S T O F R E I RE
Natural de Sintra Saudade
Palácio Nacional
de Sintra RIO D O PORT O
CALÇADA
SINTRA VOLTA DO DUCHE RUA DO CONDE DE SEIXAL RUA FRANCIS CO DOS SANTOS
Quinta da VILA PRAÇA DA VOLTA DO DUCHE Fonte
Regaleira REPUBLICA Mourisca RU A DA S MU RTA S CA M I NHO D A AL BA LON GA
R UA DE SÃO JOÃO DO CASTELO
RUA C. PEDROSO RUA VISCONDE DE MONSERRATE Parque da Miradouro Miradouro
Liberdade
R. B. DU BOCAGE
das Murtas
RUA MARECHAL SALDANHA
E ST RA D A D A P E NA Parque da Pena CALÇADA DOS CLÉRIG OS TRAV. D OS ALVARES
da Vigia
R. B A R B OSA DO B O CAG E
Castelo dos Mouros Santa Maria
SÃO PEDRO SÃO PEDRO
CALÇADA DE
R U A DA
T R IN DA D E
Palácio Nacional
da Pena
Warrior Statue
800 metres (875 yards) 5 km (3 miles)
148-149_EW_Portugal.indd 149 08/10/2018 12:36

6 "'
PALÁCIO NACIONAL


DE SINTRA


EXPERIENCE The Lisbon Coast ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec ∑ parquesdesintra.pt The Sala dos Brasões,
⌂ Largo Rainha Dona Amélia # Mar–late Oct: 9:30am–7pm daily;
Nov–early Mar: 9:30am–6pm daily (last adm 30 mins before closing)
One of the best-preserved royal palaces in Portugal, Sintra’s National Palace
has a fascinating mix of Moorish and Manueline architecture. Inside, the
lavishly decorated, whimsically themed rooms are a delight to explore.

At the heart of the old town of Sintra (Sintra
one of Europe’s
Vila), a pair of strange conical chimneys rise
above the Royal Palace. The main part of the
heraldry rooms
palace, including this central block with its
plain Gothic façade, was built by João I in the most impressive
late 14th century, on a site once occupied by
the Moorish rulers. The Paço Real, as it is also
known, soon became the favourite summer
retreat for the court, and continued as a
residence for Portuguese royalty until
1910. Additions to the building by
Manuel I, in the early 16th century,
echo the Moorish style.
The palace stretches across
a number of levels, in
acquiescence to the
mountain on which it sits.



Did You Know?

Afonso VI was
imprisoned by his
brother, Pedro II,
in the palace for
nine years.
Sala das Galés
(galleons)







Jardim da Quarto de Dom
Preta, a walled Sebastião, the
garden bedroom of the
young king

The white walls and
distinctive chimneys of the
Palácio Nacional de Sintra
150



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