(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

Must See



1 The domed ceiling of the
Sala dos Brasões is deco­
rated with stags holding the
coats of arms (brasões) of 72
noble Portuguese families.
The lower walls are lined
with 18th­century Delft­
like tiled panels.
1
2 The magnificent ceiling
of the former banqueting
hall is divided into octa g­
onal panels decorated with
swans (cisnes), each wearing
an elegant golden collar.
3 The Ala Manuelina
(Manuel’s Wing) was built
between 1497 and 1530
and the rooms are adorned
2 3 with tiles from Seville.
Sala das Sereias, or The kitchens, where royal
Room of the Sirens Sala Árabe, banquets were once
decorated with prepared, sit beneath the
fine azulejos huge conical chimneys.

Sintra’s national
palace, showcasing
an intriguing meld of
architectural styles




















Moorish-style
Sala dos Archeiros, windows on the
Entrance the entrance hall Ala Manuelina


th
Timeline 8 Century 1147 1495 1755 1910
First palace
Christian
Palace becomes
Parts of palace
Reign of Manuel I
established here
damaged in great
reconquest; Afonso
begins; major
a national
Henriques takes
by the Moors
over palace palace restoration earthquake monument
and additions
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7 "\ Manuel II’s bedroom,
PALÁCIO an oval-shaped room

decorated with a
NACIONAL stuccoed ceiling

DA PENA
EXPERIENCE The Lisbon Coast ⌂ Estrada da Pena, 5 km (3 miles) S of Sintra @ 434 from



Avenida Dr Miguel Bombarda, Sintra # Mar–late Oct:
9:45am–7pm daily; Nov–early Mar: 10am–6pm daily
¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec ∑ parquesdesintra.pt
On the highest peaks of the Serra de Sintra stands the
spectacular palace of Pena. Built in the 19th century
for Queen Maria II’s flamboyantly creative husband,
Ferdinand Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, it comprises
an eclectic medley of architectural styles.
The bright pink-and-yellow walls of the palace
stand over the ruins of a Hieronymite
monastery, founded here in the 15th century.
Ferdinand appointed a German architect, Baron
Von Eschwege, to build his dream summer
palace, filled with international oddities and
surrounded by a park. Construction started in
1840, and the extravagant project would Kitchen, where
ultimately last 45 years – the rest of the king’s the dinner
life. With the declaration of the Republic in service still bears
1910, the palace became a museum, preserved Ferdinand’s coat
as it was when the royal family lived here. of arms
















1
1 The brightly painted
hilltop palace is a UNESCO
World Heritage Site.
2 Trompe-l’oeil frescoes
cover the walls and ceiling
of the Arab Room, one of
the loveliest in the palace.
3 The exterior is adorned
with intricate architecture,
heavily inspired by
2 3 European Romanticism.
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Must See

The Triton Arch,
encrusted with
Neo-Manueline
decoration Arab Room The cloister, part of the
original monastery
buildings and decorated
Great Hall with colourful tiles



























The Romanticist Palácio
Nacional da Pena, located
in the hills of Sintra

Entrance


Entrance arch, a studded
archway topped with
crenellated turrets

FERDINAND: KING CONSORT
Born a German prince, Ferdinand was
known in Portugal as Dom Fernando II,
the “artist” king. Like his cousin Prince
Albert, who married the English Queen
Victoria, he loved art, nature and new
inventions of the time. He was himself
a watercolour painter. Ferdinand
enthusiastically adopted his new country and
devoted his life to patronizing the arts. In 1869, 16
years after the death of Maria II, Ferdinand married
his mistress, the opera singer Countess Edla. His
long-held dream of building the astonishing palace at
Pena was finally completed in 1885, the year he died.



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2 "-\
PALÁCIO NACIONAL


DE QUELUZ


EXPERIENCE The Lisbon Coast before closing); Nov–early Mar: 9am–5:30pm daily (last adm 30 mins before closing)
! D5 ⌂ Largo do Palácio, Queluz; 14 km (9 miles) NW of Lisbon @ From Lisbon (Colégio
Militar) £ Queluz-Belas or Quelez-Massama # Mar–late Oct: 9am–7pm daily (last adm 1 hr
¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec ∑ parquesdesintra.pt
Often referred to as Lisbon’s Versailles, this palace is an excellent example of
18th-century Portuguese architecture. Initially intended as a summer residence, the
royal family lived here permanently from 1794 until their departure for Brazil in 1807.

In 1747, Pedro, younger son of João V, commissioned Mateus
Vicente to transform his 17th-century hunting lodge into a
Rococo summer palace. The central section, including a music
Fountain
room and chapel, was built first, and after Pedro’s marriage Neptune's
in 1760 to the future Maria I, the palace was again
extended. The French architect Jean-Baptiste
Robillion added the sumptuous Robillion
Pavilion and gardens, cleared space for the
throne room and redesigned the music
room. During Maria’s reign, the royal
family kept a menagerie and went
boating on the azulejo-lined canal.
Sala dos
Embaixadores














The Lion Staircase,
gracefully linking
the lower gardens
to the palace



Did You Know?
Dom Pedro IV was born The flamboyant,
and died in the Don Rococo-style Don Quixote
Quixote chamber, Robillion chamber, the
despite living most of Shell Pavilion royal bedroom,
his life in Brazil. waterfall with its domed
ceiling and
magnificent floor
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Must See
1 The ornate palace
façade overlooks
the spectacular
Neptune's Fountain.
2 The formal gardens,
adorned with statues,
fountains and topiary, were
often used for entertaining.
3 The Sala dos Embaixadores
was a stately room built
by Robillon and used for
both diplomatic audiences
and concerts. 1 2

The royal family’s living Chapel
rooms and bedrooms,
which opened out onto
the Malta Gardens
Neptune's
Fountain
3
Music room, where Maria I’s
orchestra performed
operas and concerts

Entrance









Throne room


The palace and its
carefully arranged
formal gardens

Malta Gardens

MARIA I (1734–1816)
Maria, the eldest daughter of José I, lived
at Queluz palace after her marriage to her
uncle, Pedro. Serious and devout, Maria
was a conscientious queen, but suffered
increasingly from bouts of melancholia.
When her son José died from smallpox in
1788, she went hope lessly mad. Visitors
The Hanging Gardens, to Queluz were dismayed by her agoniz­
elaborately designed ing shrieks as she suffered visions and
by Robillion and built hallucin ations. After the 1807 invasion,
over arches her younger son João took Maria to Brazil.


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EXPERIENCE MORE




3 "'
Palácio de Mafra 1717
! D5 ⌂ Terreiro de Dom Palácio de Mafra began,
EXPERIENCE The Lisbon Coast 5:30pm Wed–Mon (last and art works were taken to
Construction of the
João V, Mafra @ From Lisbon
q Campo Grande, then
@ Ericeira # 9:30am–
a project so ambitious
it almost bankrupted
adm 4:45pm) ¢ 1 Jan,
the state.
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec
∑ palaciomafra. gov.pt
This massive Baroque palace
Brazil when the royal family
and monastery were built
during the reign of João V, and
began with a vow by the young in 1807. The monastery was
king to build a new monastery
abandoned in 1834 following
and basilica, supposedly in escaped the French invasion
the disso lution of all religious
return for an heir. Work began orders, and the palace itself Natural rock pool at the
in 1717 on a modest project was abandoned in 1910. coastal town of Azenhas
but, as wealth began to pour The tour starts in the do Mar, near Colares
into the royal coffers from rooms of the monastery,
Brazil, the king and his Italian- through the pharmacy, with
trained architect, Johann some alarming medical gold-embossed leather
Friedrich Ludwig (1670–1752), instru ments, to the infirmary, bindings, including a prized
made ever more extravagant where patients could see and first edition of Os Lusíadas
plans. No expense was spared: hear mass in the adjoining (1572) by the Portuguese poet
the finished project housed chapel from their beds. Luís de Camões (1524–80).
330 friars, a royal palace and Upstairs, the sumptuous
one of the finest libraries in state rooms extend across the
Europe, decorated with pre- whole of the west façade, with 4
cious marble, exotic wood the King’s apartments at one
and countless works of art. end and the queen’s apart- Colares
The magnificent basilica was ments at the other. Midway, ! D5 @ n Cabo da Roca;
consecrated on the king’s 41st the long, imposing façade is 219 280 081
birth day, 22 October 1730. relieved by the twin towers
The palace was only popular of the domed basilica. The On the lower slopes of the
with those members of the church’s interior is decorated Serra de Sintra, this lovely
royal family who enjoyed in con trasting colours of mar- village faces the sea over a
hunting deer and wild boar. ble and furnished with six green valley. A leafy avenue
Most of the finest furniture early 19th-century organs. winds its way up to the village.
Mafra’s greatest treasure, Small quantities of the famous
however, is its library, with Colares wine are still made.
its Rococo-style wooden The hardy vines grow
bookcases, and a coll ection in sandy soil, with the
of over 40,000 books in roots set deep in

















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STAY

clay; these were among the few sandy beaches and fresh
vines in Europe to survive the seafood. In July and August, Martinhal Cascais
dis astrous phyl loxera epidemic pavement cafés, restaurants This upmarket, family-
brought from America in the and bars around the tree- friendly hotel offers
late 19th cen tury. The insect lined Praça da República are plush rooms or villas
ate the vines’ roots but could buzzing late into the night. equipped with all you
not penetrate the dense sandy Alternative attrac tions include could need for a chilled
soil of the Atlantic coast. The Santa Marta park and a history holiday. With an indoor
Adega Regional de Colares on museum (closed until 2020). and an outdoor pool,
Alameda de Coronel Linhares The unspoilt old town, a and kids’ activities,
de Lima offers wine tastings. maze of whitewashed houses there’s plenty to keep
There are several popular and narrow, cobbled streets, children happy.
beach resorts west of Colares. is perched high above the ⌂ Rua do Clube 2,
Just north of Praia das Maçãs ocean. From Largo das Ribas, Cascais
is the picturesque village of at the top of a 30-m (100-ft) ∑ martinhal.com
Azenhas do Mar, clinging to stone-faced cliff, there is a ¡¡¡
the cliffs; to the south is the bird’s-eye view over the busy
larger resort of Praia Grande. fishing harbour below, where Moon Hill Hostel
tractors haul the boats out Tucked in a quiet corner
of reach of the tide. In mid- of hilltop Sintra, this
5 August, the annual fishermen’s modern hostel offers
festival is celebrated with a
Ericeira candlelit procession to the stylish double rooms as
well as contemporary
harbour at the foot of the cliffs
! D5 @ n Rua Dr Eduardo dorms. There’s a
Burnay 46; 261 863 122 for the blessing of the boats. communal lounge,
On 5 October 1910, Manuel kitchen and pretty
Ericeira is an old fishing village II, the last king of Portugal, patio garden.
that keeps its traditions despite sailed into exile from Ericeira ⌂ Rua Guilherme
an ever-increasing influx of as the Republic was declared Gomes Fernandes 17,
summer visitors who enjoy in Lisbon; a tiled panel in the Sintra ∑ moonhill
the bracing climate, clean, fishermen’s chapel of Santo hostel.com
António above the harbour
records the event. The ¡¡¡
The impressive banished king settled in
Baroque façade of the Twickenham, southwest
Palácio de Mafra London, where he died in 1932.
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EXPERIENCE The Lisbon Coast The Palace of Monserrate’s








beautifully wrought
Romantic architecture,
inside (inset) and out


Estoril from Cascais, besides a
pleasant beach promenade of
3 km (2 miles) and a mansion-
covered ridge known as Monte
Estoril, is its sense of place.
in the roots of a giant Ficus The heart of Estoril is
6 " tree. Its history dates back immediately accessible from
Monserrate to the Moors, but it takes its the train station. On one side
name from a small 16th- of the tracks, is the riviera-like,
! D5 ⌂ Rua Barbosa du
Bocage £ To Sintra then bus century chapel dedicated to but relaxed beach; on the
435 or taxi # Late Mar–late Our Lady of Montserrat in other, a palm-lined park
Oct: 9:30am–8pm daily (to Catalonia, Spain. The gardens flanked by grand buildings,
were land scaped in the late
stretches up past fountains to
7pm for the palace); late Oct–
late Mar: 10am–6pm daily 1700s by a wealthy young a casino. Dwarfing the casino is
(to 5pm for the palace); last Englishman, William Beckford. the Estoril Congress Centre, a
adm 1 hour before closing They were later immortalized vast multipurpose edifice that
by Lord Byron in Childe
speaks confidently of Estoril’s
∑ parquesdesintra.pt
Harold’s Pilgrimage (1812). contemporary role.
The wild, romantic garden of In 1856, the abandoned
this estate is a jungle of exotic estate was bought by another
trees and flowering shrubs. Englishman, Sir Francis Cook,
Among the subtropical foliage who built a fantastic Moorish-
and valley of tree ferns are a style palace and trans formed
water fall, a small lake and a the gardens with a sweeping
chapel, built as a ruin, tangled lawn, camellias and subtropical
trees from all over the world.
INSIDER TIP
Fonte da Telha
Take the beach train 7
from Caparica to the end Estoril
of the line at Fonte da ! D5 £ @ n Largo de
Telha. This is a popular Camões, Cascais; 912 034
family destination, but 214
keep walking and you’ll
quickly find a patch of The lovely resort town of Estoril
golden sands that you is a tourist and business resort, Bathers enjoying the
can have all to yourself. and a place for comfortable clear blue waters and
retirement. What separates sandy beach at Cascais
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8 9 runs 10 km (6 miles) along the
coast in summer months. The
Cascais Alcochete first beaches reached from
the town are popular with
! D5 £ @ n Largo de ! D5 @ n Largo da fami lies with children, while
Camões; 912 034 214 Misericórdia; 212 348 655
the furthest beaches suit
A holiday resort for well over a This delightful old town over- those seeking quiet iso lation.
century, Cascais possesses a looks the Tagus estuary from
certain illustrious ness that the southern shore. Salt has
younger resorts lack. Its history long been one of the main
is visible in its villas, sum mer indust ries here, and saltpans
residences of wealthy Lisboetas can still be seen north and EAT
who followed King Luís I’s lead south of the town, while in the
during the late 19th century. town centre a large statue of a
Cascais today is a fav oured muscular salt worker has the O Pescador
suburb of Lisbon, a place of inscrip tion: “Do Sal a Revolta This nautical-themed
seaside apart ments and pine- e a Esperança” (From Salt to eatery is lined with
studded plots by golf courses. Rebellion and Hope). The wooden tables and
But the beautiful coastline Reserva Natural do Estuário do fishing paraphernalia.
beyond the town has been Tejo covers a vast area of estu- Diners can sit on the
left largely undeveloped. ary water, salt marshes and pleasant outdoor
Housed in a castle-like villa, small islands around Alco chete, terrace and enjoy the
the Museu Condes de Castro and is a very import ant breed- menu’s emphasis on
Guimarães is the best place to ing ground for water birds. fresh fish.
get a taste of Cascais’s history. ⌂ Rua das Flores
The Casa das Histórias 10b, Cascais ¢ Wed L
Paula Rego is dedicated to 10 ∑ restaurante
the work of the painter, pescador.com
illustrator and printmaker. Costa da Caparica ¡¡¡
! D5 g To Cacilhas or
Museu Condes de
Castro Guimarães Trafaria then bus £ To Saudade
" ⌂ Avenida Rei Humberto Pragal, then 194 bus An appealing café and
n Frente Urbana de Praias;
de Itália § 214 815 304 212 900 071 art gallery near the
# 10am–1pm, 2–5pm Tue–Sun train station that
serves coffees,
Long beaches, backed by sand
Casa das Histórias dunes make this a popular cakes, sandwiches
and petiscos
Paula Rego holiday resort for Lisboetas (Portuguese tapas).
" ⌂ Avenida da República who come to swim, sunbathe
300 # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun and enjoy the seafood restau- ⌂ Avenida Dr Miguel
(Apr–Oct: to 7pm) ∑ casadas rants and beach cafés. A Bombarda 6, Sintra
historiaspaularego.com railway, with open carriages, § 212 428 804
¡¡¡

























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11 The day’s catch can be tasted court yard. Baroque paintings,
ex votos and a frescoed ceiling
in the town’s excellent fish
Sesimbra restaurants along the shore. deco rate the church’s interior.
High above the town is the Nearby, a domed chapel has
! D5 @ n Rua da Fortaleza Moorish castle, greatly tiled blue and white azulejo
de Santiago; 212 288 540
restored in the 18th century panels depicting fishing
Protected from north winds when a church and small scenes. The site became a
by the slopes of the Serra da flower­filled cemetery were popular place of pilgrimage
in the 13th century when a
Arrábida, this busy fishing
added inside the walls. There
EXPERIENCE The Lisbon Coast is a maze of steep narrow w on a mule. Legend has it that
local man had a vision of the
are wonderful views from the
village has become a popular
holiday resort. The old town
Madonna rising from the sea
ramparts, especially at sunset.
streets, with the Santiago Fort
the tracks of the mule can be
seen em bedded in the rock.
(now a customs post) in the
centre over looking the sea.
Cabo Espichel
From the terrace there are
views of the town, the Atlantic
13
! D5 @ From Sesimbra
and the wide sandy beach that
stretches out on either side.
Sesimbra is fast developing as
the sea on this windswept
! D5 £ @ n Castelo de
promontory. The Romans
a resort, with plentiful pave­
Palmela; 212 332 122
ment cafés and bars that are Sheer cliffs drop straight into Palmela
named it Promontorium
always busy on sunny days. Barbaricum, alluding to its The formidable castle at
The fishing fleet is moored dangerous location, and a Palmela stands over the small
in the Porto do Abrigo to the lighthouse warns sailors of hill town, high on a north ­
west of the main town. The the treacherous rocks below. eastern spur of the wooded
harbour is reached by taking Stunning views of the ocean Serra da Arrábida. Its strategic
Avenida dos Náufragos, a and the coast can be enjoyed position dominates the plain
sweeping promenade that from this bleak outcrop of for miles around, especially
follows the beach out of town. land but beware of the strong when floodlit at night. Heavily
When the fishing boats return gusts of wind on the cliff edge. defended by the Moors, it was
from a day at sea, a colourful, In this desolate setting is finally conquered in the 12th
noisy fish auction takes the impressive Santuário de century and given by Sancho I
place on the quayside. Nossa Senhora do Cabo, a to the Knights of the Order of
late 17th­century church with Santiago. In 1423, João I
its back to the sea. On either transformed the castle into a
Brightly painted fishing side of the church a long line monastery for the Order. It
boats moored in the of pilgrims’ lodgings facing has since been restored and
harbour at Sesimbra inwards form an open converted into a splendid

















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The castle at Palmela
with views over the
Serra da Arrábida

pousada, with a restaurant in limestone mountains that
the monks’ refectory and a stretch east-west along the
swimming pool for residents, coast between Sesimbra and
hidden inside the castle walls. Setúbal. It was established to
From the castle terraces protect the wild, beautiful STAY
and the top of the 14th-century landscape and rich variety of
keep, there are fantastic views birds and wildlife, including
over the Serra da Arrábida to wildcats and badgers. Sana Park Sesimbra
the south, and on a clear day The sheltered, south-facing In an ideal spot right on
across the Tagus to Lisbon. In slopes are thickly covered with Sesimbra’s seafront,
the town square below, the aromatic and evergreen this classy hotel offers
church of São Pedro contains shrubs and trees such as pine excellent sea views
8th-century tiles of scenes and cypress, more typical of from the rooms, which
from the life of St Peter. the Mediterranean. Vineyards are decorated in
The annual wine festival, also thrive on the sheltered contemporay style.
the Festa das Vindimas, is slopes and the town of Vila The hotel has its own
held on the first weekend of Nogueira de Azeitão is pool and a restaurant
September in front of the 17th- particularly known for its with a terrace in front
century Paços do Concelho wine, Moscatel de Setúbal. of the beach.
(town hall). Traditionally The Estrada de Escarpa (the ⌂ Avenida 25 de
dressed villagers press the N379-1) snakes across the top Abril 11, Sesimbra
wine barefoot and on the final of the ridge and affords ∑ sesimbra.sana
day of celebrations there is a astounding views. A narrow hotels.com
spectacular firework display road winds down to Portinho ¡¡¡
from the castle walls. da Arrábida, a sheltered cove
with a beach of fine white Pousada Dom
sand and crystal clear sea, Afonso II
14 popular with underwater Housed within a
fishermen. The sandy beaches
Serra da Arrábida of Galapos and Figueirinha are stylishly converted
castle, the hotel has
a little further east along the
! D5 @ Setúbal n Parque sweeping views of the
Natural da Arrábida, Praça coast road towards Setúbal. Sado river and valley,
da República, Setúbal; 265 Just east of Sesimbra, the and there is also a
Serra da Arrábida drops to
541 140 swimming pool and
the sea in the sheer 380-m restaurant.
The Serra da Arrábida Natural (1,250-ft) cliffs of Risco, the ⌂ Castelo de Alcácer do
Park covers the range of highest in mainland Portugal. Sal, Alcácer do Sal
∑ pousadas.pt
From the castle terraces and the top of the ¡¡¡
14th-century keep, there are fantastic views
over the Serra da Arrábida to the south, and
on a clear day across the Tagus to Lisbon.

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EXPERIENCE The Lisbon Coast










15
Península de Tróia Did You Know?
EAT ! D5 @ g Tróia n Tróia Setúbal’s most famous
Resort; 265 499 400;
# Cetóbriga: Mar–Oct: son is Manchester
O Barbas Catedral 10am–1pm, 2:30–6pm Wed– United manager
This renowned Sun (to 6:30pm Jun–Aug) José Mourinho, born
restaurant, which here in 1963.
overlooks the breakers Holiday apartments dominate
of Caparica beach, is the tip of the Tróia peninsula,
usually packed at easily acces sible from Setúbal
weekends thanks to its by ferry. The Atlantic coast, ferry port, and a lively covered
delicious seafood dishes. stretching south for 18 km market. North of the gardens
! D5 ⌂ Apoio de Praia (11 miles) of untouched sandy is the old town, with attractive
13, Caparica beaches, is now the haunt of pedestrian streets and
§ 212 900 163 sun-seekers in the summer. squares full of cafés.
Near Tróia, in the sheltered The 16th-century cathedral,
¡¡¡
lagoon, the Roman town of dedicated to Santa Maria
Cetóbriga was the site of a da Graça, has glorious
O Galeão thriving fish-salting business. 18th-century tiled panels,
Expect sparkling sea The stone tanks and ruined and gilded altar decoration.
views from the terrace, buildings are open to visit. Street names commemorate
great salads and fresh Further on, Carrasqueira two famous Setúbal residents:
fish at this restaurant is an old fishing community Manuel Barbosa du Bocage
above the water. where you can still see tradi- (1765–1805), whose satirical
! D5 ⌂ Portinho da tional reed houses. poetry landed him in prison,
Arrábida § 212 180 533 and Luísa Todi (1753–1833), a
¡¡¡ celebrated opera singer.
y In Roman times, fish-salting
Ribamar Setúbal was the most important indus-
This upmarket try here. Rectangular stone
restaurant is right on the ! D5 £ @ g n Casa da tanks used for this process
can still be seen on Travessa
seafront, and has been Baía, Avenue Luísa Todi
serving tasty seafood 468; 265 545 010 Frei Gaspar.
dishes for over 60 years. To the north of the old
An important industrial town town, the striking Igreja de
! D5 ⌂ Avenida dos and the third-largest port in Jesus (currently closed for
Náufragos 29, Sesimbra Portugal (after Lisbon and restoration) is one of Setúbal’s
∑ ribamar.pt
Porto), Setúbal makes a good treasures. Designed by the
¡¡¡ base from which to explore the architect Diogo Boitac in 1494,
area. To the south of the central the lofty interior is adorned
gardens and fountains are the with twisted columns of
fishing har bour, marina and pinkish Arrábida limestone,
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local arts, crafts and industries,
including the processing of salt ANIMALS OF THE
and cork over the centuries. SADO ESTUARY
The star-shaped Castelo A protected nature
de São Filipe was built in 1595 reserve, the Sado
by Philip II of Spain during the estuary is an area of
period of Spanish rule to keep salt marsh home to
a wary eye on pirates, English nesting storks and
invaders and the local popu- flamingos, and the only
lation. It now houses a place along the Portu­
boutique hotel, but the guese coast where you
battlements and ramparts can see wild bottlenose
are open to the public and dolphins. Many water
offer marvellous views over birds, including avocets
Jetty with fishing boats the city and the Sado estuary. and pratincoles, are
moored on the mud flats Setúbal is an ideal starting found close to the
at Carrasqueira point for a tour by car of the areas of open water and
unspoilt Reserva Natural do dried­out lagoons of the
Estuário do Sado, a vast stretch estuary, where reed­
and rope-like stone ribs, recog- of mud flats,shallow lagoons beds provide shelter.
nized as the first examples of and salt marshes, which has
the distinctive Manueline style. been explored and inhabited
On Rua do Balneário, in since 3500 BC. 17
the old monastic quarters, a
museum houses 14 remarkable Museu de Arquelogia Alcácer do Sal
paintings of the life of Christ. e Etnografia ! E5 £ @ n Largo Luís de
The works are attrib uted to ⌂ Avenida Luísa Todi 162 Camões; 911 794 685
followers of the Renaissance # 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm
painter Jorge Afonso (1520–30). Tue–Sat ¢ Public hols Bypassed by the main road,
The Museu de Arquelogia e ∑ maeds.amrs.pt the ancient town of Alcácer
Etnografia displays a wealth do Sal (al-kasr from the Arabic
of finds from digs around Castelo de São Felipe for castle, and do sal from its
Setúbal, including Bronze Age \ ⌂ Estrada de São Felipe trade in salt) sits peacefully
pots and Roman coins. The # 10am–noon, 1–6pm Tue– on the north bank of the Sado
ethno graphy display shows Sun (to midnight Fri & Sat) river. The impos ing castle was
a hillfort as early as the 6th
century BC. The Phoenicians
made an inland trading port
here, and the castle later
became a Roman stronghold.
Rebuilt by the Moors, it was
conquered by Afonso II in 1217.
The buildings have now taken
on a new life as a pousada,
with sweeping views over the
rooft ops. Also here is the Cripta
Arqueológica do Castelo, an
archaeological museum
holding locally excavated
items. The collections include
artifacts from the Iron Age,
as well as from the Roman,
Moorish and medieval periods.
There are pleasant cafés
along the riverside promenade
and several historic churches.
Cripta Arqueológica
do Castelo
" ⌂ Castelo de Alcácer
Tiled chapel in do Sal § 265 612 058
Castelo de São # 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm
Filipe, Setúbal Tue–Sat ¢ Public hols
163



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A DRIVING TOUR
SERRA DE SINTRA




Length 36 km (22 miles) Stopping-off points Cabo da
Roca; Colares Terrain Mountainous in places, with steep,
EXPERIENCE The Lisbon Coast This round trip from Sintra follows a dramatic route The village of Colares rests
narrow roads

over the top of the wooded Serra. The first part is a
challenging drive with hazardous hairpin bends on steep,
narrow roads that are at times poorly surfaced. It passes
through dense forest and a surreal landscape of giant
moss-covered boulders, with breath taking views over
on the lower slopes of the
the Atlantic coast, the Tagus estuary and beyond. After
dropping down to the rugged, windswept coast, the
by gardens and vineyards
route returns to small country roads, passing through
(p156). There are several
hill villages and large estates on the cool, green
delightful bars and
northern slopes of the Serra de Sintra. wooded Serra, surrounded
restaurants here too.
Praia da Adraga Ribeira de Cola res
Praia da Adraga
Colares Colares
GalamaresGalamares
Ribeira de Cola res
Seteais Seteais Sintra Sintra
AlmoçagemeAlmoçageme Penedo Penedo
Cabo da Roca makes
a good stopping-off Casas NovasCasas Novas Montserrate Castelo dosCastelo dos
Montserrate
Mouros
point, offering Parque Parque Mouros
spectacular ocean Pé da SerraPé da Serra Convento dos CapuchosConvento dos Capuchos da Pena da Pena
views, along with a café
S e r r a d e S i n t r a 392 m
S e r r a d e S i n t r a
and souvenir shop.
Ulgueira Ulgueira Palácio Nacional da PenaPalácio Nacional da Pena
Monte Rodel Monte Rodel
392 m
Cabo da Roca
Cabo da Roca
Azoia Azoia
A lighthouse at the
top of an impressive Monge Monge SINTR A
SINTR A
cliff, 140 m (459 ft) high, 490 m 490 m
marks the most Rio d a Mula Rio d a Mula
westerly point of the Peninha Peninha Pedra Branca Pedra Branca
359 m
359 m
European mainland. Albufeira do Albufeira do
Rio da MulaRio da Mula
Pedra Amarela
Pedra Amarela
408 m 408 m
0 kilometres 1 1 N N
0 kilometres
0 miles 0 miles 1 1
Peninha’s 490-m- (1,600-ft-)
high peak affords stunning
views towards the coast.
A 17th-century chapel
decorated with azulejo
Looking out to the Atlantic Ocean panels is perched high on
from Cabo da Roca’s windswept cliffs the grey rocks.
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THE
LISBON COAST
Serra de
Sintra Tour



Locator Map
For more detail see p146
Visitors climbing
Castelo dos Mouros,
south of Sintra

End this drive at
Seteais. Now a luxury
hotel and restaurant, From the centre
The cool forest park and this elegant palace was of Sintra’s old town
elaborate 19th-century palace of built in the 18th century (p148), the road winds
Monserrate epitomize the for the Dutch Consul, steeply upwards past
romanticism of Sintra (p158). Daniel Gildemeester. magnificent quintas
(country estates) hidden
among the trees.
Praia da Adraga
Praia da Adraga Ribeira de Cola res
Colares Colares
GalamaresGalamares
Ribeira de Cola res
Seteais Seteais Sintra Sintra
AlmoçagemeAlmoçageme
Penedo Penedo
FINISH
Casas Novas Casas Novas Montserrate Mouros Mouros
Montserrate
Praia da Adraga Parque Parque
Pé da Serra Pé da Serra Convento dos CapuchosConvento dos Capuchos Colares da Pena da Pena Galamares
S e r r a d e S i n t r a
S e r r a d e S i n t r a Casas Novas Penedo START Castelo dos
Castelo dosCastelo dos Ribeira de Cola res
Ulgueira Ulgueira Almoçageme Palácio Nacional da PenaPalácio Nacional da Pena Seteais Sintra
Monte Rodel Monte Rodel
392 m
392 m
Parque
Cabo da Roca Montserrate da Pena Mouros
Cabo da Roca
Pé da Serra Convento dos Capuchos
S e r r a d e S i n t r a
Azoia Azoia Ulgueira Palácio Nacional da Pena
Monge Monge SINTR A
SINTR A
490 m 490 m Monte Rodel
392 m
Cabo da Roca Rio d a Mula Rio d a Mula Pedra Branca Pedra Branca
Peninha Peninha 359 m 359 m
Albufeira do Albufeira do
Rio da MulaRio da Mula
Azoia
Pedra Amarela
Pedra Amarela
408 m 408 m
Monge SINTR A
490 m The spectacular
Palácio Nacional de
Peninha Pena perches on the Pedra Branca
359 m
Rio d a Mula
Begin this drive highest peaks of the Albufeira do
Rio da Mula
at the Parque Serra Sintra (p152).
0 kilometres 1 1 N N da Pena. This Pedra Amarela
0 kilometres
huge, exotic park 408 m
0 miles 0 miles Two huge boulders guard the entrance can be explored
1
1
to this remote Franciscan monastery. on foot (p149).
The Convento dos Capuchos was
founded in 1560 and where friars lived
in tiny rock-hewn cells lined with cork.
0 kilometres 1 N
0 miles 1
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The picturesque coastline at Nazaré
























ESTREMADURA
AND RIBATEJO




The name Estremadura comes from the Latin
Extrema Durii, “beyond the Douro”. This was
once the border of the Christian kingdoms in
the north. As Portugal expanded southwards
in the 12th century, land taken from the Moors
was given to the religious orders. The Cistercian
abbey at Alcobaça celebrates Afonso Henriques’
capture of the town of Santarém in 1147, after
which the Knights Templar began constructing
their citadel at Tomar (p176). Overthrowing the
Moors did not signal lasting peace in the region,
however, as Spanish claims to the Portuguese
throne brought more fighting. João I was victorious
over the Castilians at the Battle of Aljubarrota in
1385, and he built Batalha’s magnificent abbey
near the site to celebrate Portuguese independence.
In 1808–10, Napoleonic forces sacked many
towns in the region, but were stopped by
Wellington’s formidable defences, the Lines of
Torres Vedras. Christianity remains as important
here as it was in the Middle Ages and, in the
20th century, Fátima became an important
pilgrimage destination following celebrated
visions of the Virgin Mary in 1917. The region
is not out of touch with the modern world,
however, and the building of the dam at
Castelo de Bode in the 1940s heralded a
new era of hydroelectric power.
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C O I
Figueiró do Figueiró do C O I M B R A M B R A
Abrunheira Abrunheira Campo Campo Lousã Lousã Cadafaz Cadafaz
Barragem Barragem
THE BEIRASEIRAS de Santa Luzia
THE B
de Santa Luzia
p190 p190
Pampilhosa Pampilhosa
ESTREMADURAESTREMADURA Marinha Marinha Soure Soure Vila Nova Vila Nova Coentral Coentral Bogas de BaixoBogas de Baixo
AND RIBATEJOAND RIBATEJO das Ondas das Ondas da Serra da Serra
Louriçal Louriçal Álvares Álvares
Redinha Redinha Amieira Amieira
Mata Mata Campelo Campelo Estreito Estreito
Guia
Mourisca Mourisca
Lagoa da Lagoa da Guia Santiago da Sobral Sobral
Santiago da
Ervedeina Ervedeina Serra do Sicó Serra do Sicó Guarda Avelar Avelar
Guarda
Pedrógão Pedrógão
Lomba
Monte Monte Grande Grande Lomba
Oleiros
Redondo Redondo POMBAL POMBAL Ansião Mosteiro Mosteiro Oleiros
Ansião
Vale da Vale da Atalaia Atalaia
Baiouca Baiouca
CASTELO BR
Rio Lis
Rio Lis
Monte Real Monte Real Santiago Santiago Arega Arega CASTELO BRANCO ANCO
Barragem Barragem
Almoster Almoster
de Litém de Litém
da Bouçã da Bouçã
A tl anticA tl antic Vermoil Vermoil AlvaiázereAlvaiázere
Albergaria dos Doze Sertã Sertã Corgas Corgas
Albergaria dos Doze
Sobreira Sobreira
L E
Oc eanOc ean L E I R I A I R I A Formosa Formosa
Espite Espite Rio Nabão Rio Nabão Palhais Palhais Proença Proença
Freixianda Freixianda
B e i r a B a i x a
B e i r a B a i x a
LEIRIA LEIRIA
Pared es d e Vi tóri a Pataias d e Vi tóri a Calvário Calvário MOSTEIRO Cardosos Cardosos FormigaisFormigais do Zêzeredo Zêzere Barragem do Barragem do Amêndoa Amêndoa
São João São João
-a-Nova -a-Nova
do Peso do Peso
MOSTEIRO
Cardigos Cardigos
Maceira
Maceira
Ferreira Ferreira
DE SANTA MARIA
Vila de Rei Vila de Rei
DE SANTA MARIA
Pared es Pataias
DA VITÓRIA
DA VITÓRIA
Castelo de BodeCastelo de Bode
OURÉMOURÉM
Juncal
PORTO PORTO
NAZARÉ NAZARÉ Juncal Batalha Batalha FÁTIMA FÁTIMA Assentiz Assentiz TOMARTOMAR São DomingosSão Domingos Carvoeiro Carvoeiro
DE MÓSDE MÓS
Barragem daBarragem da
MOSTEIRO DE SANTA MARIA MOSTEIRO DE SANTA MARIA Sêrro Sêrro Mação Mação Pracana Pracana
BARRAGEM DO
BARRAGEM DO
ESTREMADURA DE ALCOBAÇADE ALCOBAÇA Ventoso Ventoso DINOSSÁURIOS CASTELO DE BODE Martinxel Martinxel Sardoal Sardoal
PEGADAS DOS
PEGADAS DOS
CASTELO DE BODE
DINOSSÁURIOS
AND RIBATEJO SÃO MARTINHO DO PORTOSÃO MARTINHO DO PORTO Mendiga Mendiga TORRES NOVAS ValhascosValhascos Belver Belver Amieira
TORRES NOVAS
CONSTÂNCIA
Serra dos Candeeiros Moitas Venda
Amieira
Vimeiro
BERLENGA
BERLENGA Serra do Bouro AlfeizerãoAlfeizerão Vimeiro Alcanena Alcanena CONSTÂNCIA Pego Ortiga Ortiga Do Tejo Do Tejo
Serra do Bouro
Pego
Must Sees ISLANDS ISLANDS Foz do Arelho Serra dos Candeeiros Moitas Venda Parceiros Parceiros Gavião Gavião
Foz do Arelho
ABRANTES
1 Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaça CALDAS DA Alcanede Alcanede Chã de Chã de CASTELO DE ABRANTES Castelo Cernadoo Cernado
CALDAS DA
CASTELO DE
Castel
Cima
Cima
ALMOUROL
2 Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória BALEAL BALEAL RAINHA RAINHA GOLEGÃ GOLEGÃ ALMOUROL
Sobral
3 Tomar ÓBIDOSÓBIDOS Pernes Pernes Sobral Rio Tejo Rio Tejo S A N T A R É M R É M
S A N T A
Atouguia Atouguia Arruda Arruda Chamusca Chamusca
BACALHÔA BUDDHA
Experience More PENICHE PENICHE BACALHÔA BUDDHA dos Pisões dos Pisões Vale de Figueira Ulme Ulme BempostaBemposta
Vale de Figueira
EDEN GARDENS
EDEN GARDENS
4 Berlenga Islands Reguengo Grande AlcanhõesAlcanhões SemideiroSemideiro
Reguengo Grande
Vale de Cavalos
Azambujeira
5 Peniche Bombarral Bombarral Azambujeira SANTARÉM Vale de Cavalos Chouto Chouto Ponte de Sor
SANTARÉM
Ponte de Sor
6 Baleal Lourinhã Lourinhã Serra de Serra de Almoster Almoster ALPIARÇA
ALPIARÇA
P O R T A L
MontejuntoMontejunto
7 Óbidos CampelosCampelos Es 666m 666m Vila Nova de Vila Nova de Vale de Parreira Parreira P O R T A L E G R E E G R E
Almeirim Almeirim
Vale de
ALENTEJO
8 São Martinho do Porto Vimeiro Vimeiro Vilar Ereira São PedroSão Pedro Fazendas de Ribeira de Muge ALENTEJO
Ereira
SantarémSantarém
Ribeira de Muge
Fazendas de
9 Caldas da Rainha A-dos-Cunhados Estremadura Abrigada Abrigada Cartaxo Cartaxo Almeirim Almeirim p292 p292 Galveias Galveias
A-dos-Cunhados
R i b a t e j o e j o
R i b a t
10 Bacalhôa Buddha Eden Gardens TORRES VEDRAS Ramalhal Ramalhal Olhalvo Olhalvo Aveiras Aveiras Raposa Arneiro da Voltao da Volta
TORRES VEDRAS
Arneir
Raposa
11 Nazaré de Baixo de Baixo Muge Muge Barragem Barragem Benavila Benavila
Vilar tremadura
Valada
ALENQUER
de Montargil Montargil
12 Porto de Mós da Cadeira da Cadeira Runa ALENQUER AzambujaAzambuja Valada São José da São José da Montargil Montargil de
Runa
São PedroSão Pedro
13 Leiria Turcifal Turcifal Dois Portos Dois Portos Salvaterra de Magos LamarosaLamarosa Ervedal Ervedal
Salvaterra de Magos
VILA FRANCA
14 Pombal Enxara do Bispo VILA FRANCA Barragem Barragem Ribeira da Raia
Ribeira da Raia
Enxara do Bispo
15 Fátima Ericeira Ericeira DE XIRA DE XIRA Benavente Benavente Couço Couço
de Magos de Magos
Cano
16 Ourém Malveira Malveira MilharadoMilharado Mora Mora Casa Branca Casa Branca Cano
17 Pegadas dos Dinossáurios CORUCHE Ribeira do Divor
CORUCHE
Ribeira do Divor
18 Barragem do Castelo de Bode LISBO ALISBO A Pavia Pavia
Lousa
Lousa
19 Abrantes Terrugem Terrugem Santo Estêvão Brotas Brotas
Santo Estêvão
20 Constância Loures Loures Santa Iria Santa Iria É V O R A V O R A
É
da Azóia da Azóia
Vimieiro Vimieiro
21 Castelo de Almourol Sintra Sintra Odivelas Odivelas THE LISBONTHE LISBON
COASTCOAST
22 Santarém Lisbon PortelaLisbon Portela p144 p144 Canha Canha Lavre Lavre
23 Torres Novas AlcocheteAlcochete
24 Golegã Estoril Estoril LISBON LISBON Arraiolos Arraiolos
25 Alpiarça Cascais Cascais Montijo Montijo Vendas Vendas
Novas
Novas
26 Vila Franca de Xira Carcavelos Carcavelos Almada Almada Seixal Montemor-Montemor- Graça do Divor
Graça do Divor
Seixal
27 Coruche Poceirão Poceirão o-Novo o-Novo
28 Alenquer
29 Torres Vedras
15
Palmela Palmela Marateca Marateca 0 kilometres0 kilometres 15 N N
Vila Fresca de Azeitão
Vila Fresca de Azeitão Santiago do Santiago do
0 miles 0 miles
Escoural Escoural 15 15
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C O I
Figueiró do Figueiró do C O I M B R A M B R A
Abrunheira Abrunheira Campo Campo Lousã Lousã Cadafaz Cadafaz
Barragem Barragem
THE BEIRASEIRAS de Santa Luzia
THE B
de Santa Luzia
p190 p190
Pampilhosa Pampilhosa
ESTREMADURAESTREMADURA Marinha Marinha Soure Soure Vila Nova Vila Nova Coentral Coentral Bogas de BaixoBogas de Baixo
AND RIBATEJOAND RIBATEJO das Ondas das Ondas da Serra da Serra
Louriçal Louriçal Álvares Álvares
Redinha Redinha Amieira Amieira
Mata Mata Campelo Campelo Estreito Estreito
Guia
Mourisca Mourisca
Santiago da
Lagoa da Lagoa da Guia Santiago da Sobral Sobral
Guarda
Ervedeina Ervedeina Serra do Sicó Serra do Sicó Guarda Avelar Avelar
Pedrógão Pedrógão
Lomba
Monte Monte Grande Grande Lomba
Oleiros
Redondo Redondo POMBAL POMBAL Ansião Mosteiro Mosteiro Oleiros
Ansião
Vale da Vale da Atalaia Atalaia
Baiouca Baiouca
Rio Lis
Rio Lis
CASTELO B
Almoster Almoster
Monte Real Monte Real Santiago Santiago Arega Arega CASTELO BRANCO RANCO
Barragem Barragem
de Litém de Litém
da Bouçã da Bouçã
A tl anticA tl antic Vermoil Vermoil AlvaiázereAlvaiázere
Corgas
Albergaria dos Doze
Albergaria dos Doze Sertã Sertã Corgas
Sobreira Sobreira
L E
Oc eanOc ean L E I R I A I R I A Formosa Formosa
Espite
Espite Freixianda Freixianda Rio Nabão Palhais Palhais Proença Proença
B e i r a B a i x a
B e i r a B a i x a
Pared es d e Vi tóri a Pataias d e Vi tóri a Calvário Calvário MOSTEIRO Cardosos Cardosos FormigaisFormigais do Zêzeredo Zêzere Barragem do Barragem do Amêndoa Amêndoa
LEIRIA LEIRIA
São João São João
-a-Nova -a-Nova
do Peso do Peso
Rio Nabão
MOSTEIRO
Maceira
Cardigos Cardigos
Maceira
Ferreira Ferreira
DE SANTA MARIA
DE SANTA MARIA
Vila de Rei Vila de Rei
Pared es Pataias
DA VITÓRIA
DA VITÓRIA
Castelo de BodeCastelo de Bode
OURÉMOURÉM
Juncal
PORTO PORTO
NAZARÉ NAZARÉ Juncal Batalha Batalha FÁTIMA FÁTIMA Assentiz Assentiz TOMARTOMAR São DomingosSão Domingos Carvoeiro Carvoeiro
DE MÓSDE MÓS
Barragem daBarragem da
MOSTEIRO DE SANTA MARIA MOSTEIRO DE SANTA MARIA Sêrro Sêrro Mação Mação Pracana Pracana
BARRAGEM DO
BARRAGEM DO
PEGADAS DOS
DE ALCOBAÇADE ALCOBAÇA Ventoso Ventoso PEGADAS DOS CASTELO DE BODE Martinxel Martinxel Sardoal Sardoal
CASTELO DE BODE
DINOSSÁURIOS
SÃO MARTINHO DO PORTOSÃO MARTINHO DO PORTO Mendiga Mendiga DINOSSÁURIOS ValhascosValhascos
TORRES NOVAS
Serra dos Candeeiros Moitas Venda
CONSTÂNCIA
Amieira
AlfeizerãoAlfeizerão Vimeiro TORRES NOVAS CONSTÂNCIA Belver Belver Amieira
Vimeiro
BERLENGA
BERLENGA Serra do Bouro Alcanena Alcanena Pego Ortiga Ortiga Do Tejo Do Tejo
Serra do Bouro
Pego
ISLANDS ISLANDS Serra dos Candeeiros Moitas Venda Gavião Gavião
Foz do Arelho Chã de Chã de Parceiros Parceiros ABRANTES
Foz do Arelho
ABRANTES
CALDAS DA
CALDAS DA Alcanede Alcanede Cima Cima CASTELO DE Castelo Cernadoo Cernado
CASTELO DE
Castel
ALMOUROL
BALEAL BALEAL RAINHA RAINHA GOLEGÃ GOLEGÃ ALMOUROL
Sobral
ÓBIDOSÓBIDOS Pernes Pernes Sobral
S A N T A
Atouguia Atouguia Arruda Arruda Rio Tejo Rio Tejo S A N T A R É M R É M
PENICHE PENICHE BACALHÔA BUDDHA dos Pisões dos Pisões Vale de Figueira Chamusca Chamusca BempostaBemposta
BACALHÔA BUDDHA
Vale de Figueira
EDEN GARDENS Ulme Ulme SemideiroSemideiro
EDEN GARDENS
Reguengo Grande AlcanhõesAlcanhões
Reguengo Grande
Vale de Cavalos
Azambujeira Vale de Cavalos Chouto Chouto
Azambujeira
SANTARÉM
Bombarral Bombarral SANTARÉM Ponte de Sor
Ponte de Sor
Lourinhã Lourinhã Almoster Almoster
ALPIARÇA
Serra de Serra de ALPIARÇA
P O R T A L
CampelosCampelos MontejuntoMontejunto Vila Nova de Vila Nova de Almeirim Almeirim Parreira Parreira P O R T A L E G R E E G R E
São PedroSão Pedro
Vimeiro Vimeiro Es 666m Vilar 666m Ereira Ereira Vale de Vale de ALENTEJO
ALENTEJO
SantarémSantarém
Ribeira de Muge
Fazendas de
Fazendas de
A-dos-Cunhados Estremadura Cartaxo Cartaxo Almeirim Almeirim Ribeira de Muge p292 p292 Galveias Galveias
A-dos-Cunhados
Abrigada Abrigada
R i b a t
Ramalhal Ramalhal R i b a t e j o e j o
Arneir
TORRES VEDRAS
TORRES VEDRAS Arneiro da Voltao da Volta
Olhalvo Olhalvo Aveiras Aveiras Muge Muge Raposa Raposa
Vilar tremadura
de Baixo de Baixo Barragem Barragem Benavila Benavila
Valada
ALENQUER
de Montargil Montargil
Runa
São PedroSão Pedro Runa ALENQUER AzambujaAzambuja Valada São José da São José da Montargil Montargil de
da Cadeira da Cadeira Turcifal Dois Portos Dois Portos LamarosaLamarosa
Turcifal
Salvaterra de Magos
Salvaterra de Magos
VILA FRANCA
VILA FRANCA Ervedal Ervedal
Ribeira da Raia
Enxara do Bispo DE XIRA DE XIRA Barragem Barragem Ribeira da Raia
Enxara do Bispo
de Magos de Magos
Ericeira Ericeira Benavente Benavente Couço Couço Cano Cano
Mora Mora
Malveira Malveira MilharadoMilharado Casa Branca Casa Branca
CORUCHE
CORUCHE Ribeira do Divor
Ribeira do Divor
LISBO ALISBO A Pavia Pavia
Lousa Lousa
Santo Estêvão
Santo Estêvão Brotas Brotas
Terrugem Terrugem
Loures Loures Santa Iria Santa Iria
É
da Azóia da Azóia É V O R A V O R A
Vimieiro Vimieiro
Sintra Sintra Odivelas Odivelas THE LISBONTHE LISBON
COASTCOAST
Lisbon PortelaLisbon Portela p144 p144 Canha Canha Lavre Lavre
AlcocheteAlcochete
LISBON LISBON Arraiolos Arraiolos
Estoril Estoril
Montijo Montijo Vendas Vendas
Novas Novas
Cascais Cascais
Carcavelos Carcavelos Almada Almada Montemor-Montemor-
Graça do Divor
Seixal Seixal o-Novo o-Novo Graça do Divor
Poceirão Poceirão
15
Palmela Palmela Marateca Marateca 0 kilometres0 kilometres 15 N N
Vila Fresca de Azeitão
Vila Fresca de Azeitão Santiago do Santiago do
0 miles 0 miles
Escoural Escoural 15 15
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1 "
MOSTEIRO DE SANTA


MARIA DE ALCOBAÇA


EXPERIENCE Estremadura and Ribatejo Portugal’s largest church, the monastery at Alcobaça is renowned for Tomb of
! D4 ⌂ Praça 25 de Abril, Alcobaça @ From Lisbon, Coimbra & Leiria # Apr–Sep:
9am–7pm daily; Oct–Mar: 9am–6pm daily (last adm 30 mins before closing) ¢ 1 Jan,
Easter, 1 May, 20 Aug, 25 Dec ∑ mosteiroalcobaca.pt
its simple medieval architecture and its illustrious history.

Founded in 1153, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is
Pedro I
closely linked to the arrival of the Cistercian order in
Portugal 15 years earlier, as well as the birth of the
nation. To commem orate his victory over the Moorish
stronghold of Santarém in March 1147, King Afonso
Henriques vowed to build a monastery for the
Cistercians. Originally, the monks lived in wooden
houses on the site until the vast stone building
was habitable in 1223. The monastery was
further endowed by other monarchs, notably
King Dinis, who built the main cloister. Among
those buried here are the tragic lovers King
Pedro and his murdered mistress Inês.
Tomb of Inês
de Castro
Dormitory














The chapterhouse
was where the
monks met to
discuss issues.
The kitchen’s huge
chimney, in which
oxen could In the Refectory a
monk would read
be roasted
from the Bible as
the others ate.
The octagonal lavabo
was where the monks Cloister of
washed their hands. Dom Dinis
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Must See










2











1 3
1 The façade is a richly decorated
18th-century addition, with marble
Central nave The Gothic portal and statues of St Benedict and St Bernard
rose window on this façade flanking the main doorway of the church.
are the only original
13th-century elements. 2 The vaulted roof and soaring columns of
the central nave create an impression of
harmony and austere simplicity.
3 The tomb of Pedro I, with his statue
attended by angels, lies opposite that of
his mistress, Inês de Castro. Popular legend
says that the king insisted that they face
each other so that his first sight on
Judgement Day would be of her.


THE MURDER OF INÊS
DE CASTRO
Reasons of state obliged Pedro,
son and heir of Afonso IV, to marry
Costanza, Infanta of Castile. On her
death, Pedro went to live with Inês
de Castro, a lady at court with whom
he had fallen in love, in Coimbra.
Persuaded that Inês’s family was
dangerous, Afonso IV had her
murdered on 7 January 1355. On
Afonso’s death, Pedro took revenge
on two of the killers by having their
Main
entrance hearts torn out.
Claiming that he
In the Sala dos Reis, tiles from the had been married
18th century depict the founding to Inês, Pedro
of the abbey and statues of had her corpse
Portuguese kings adorn the walls. exhumed and
crowned.

The grand exterior and INÊS DE
interior of the Mosteiro de CASTRO
Santa Maria de Alcobaça
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2 "
MOSTEIRO DE SANTA


MARIA DA VITÓRIA


EXPERIENCE Estremadura and Ribatejo This pale limestone monastery celebrates João I’s 1385 victory over Castile at
! D4 ⌂ Batalha @ From Lisbon, Leiria, Porto de Mós & Fátima # Apr–mid-Oct:
9am–6:30pm daily; mid-Oct–Mar: 9am–6pm daily (last adm 30 mins before closing)
¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 24 & 25 Dec ∑ mosteirobatalha.pt
Aljubarrota. As well as being João’s final resting place, two unknown World War I
soldiers lie in the chapterhouse, making the monastery a monument to fortitude.

The Dominican monastery of Santa Maria da
Vitória at Batalha is a masterpiece of Portuguese
Did You Know?
Gothic architecture notable for its Manueline
elements. The monastery was begun in 1388
under master builder Afonso Domingues (1330–
bem” (for good), is
1402), who was succeeded on his death by David
inscribed on
Huguet in 1406. Over the next two centuries
his tomb.
successive kings left their mark on the monastery. João I’s motto, “por
João I’s son, King Duarte, ordered a royal pantheon
to be built behind the apse. Unfortunately, he
died before it was completed and the octagonal
mausoleum was abandoned by Manuel I in favour
of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (p108), although Gothic arches by
many Manueline decorations remain. Afonso Domingues
and Huguet around
the Royal Cloister
are embellished by
Manueline tracery.
Lavabo









1





Refectory

1 The pale exterior of the monastery is a
fine example of late Gothic architecture.
2 The portal was decorated by Huguet
with intricate statues of the Apostles.
3 The lavabo, where friars washed their
hands before and after meals, contains a
2 3 fish-filled fountain built around 1450.
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Must See

THE BATTLE OF ALJUBARROTA
In 1383, Portugal’s direct male line of descent ended
with the death of Fernando I. Dom João, the illegitimate
son of Fernando’s father, was proclaimed king, ending
the regency of Leonor Teles, but his claim was opposed
by Juan I of Castile. On 14 August 1385, João I’s greatly
outnumbered forces, commanded by Nuno Álvares
Pereira (left), faced the Castilians on a small plateau
near Aljubarrota, 3 km (2 miles) south of Batalha. João’s
spectacular victory ensured 200 years of independence
from Spain and cemented the power of the house of Avis.




Unfinished
chapels
Guards keep watch The stained-glass
by the Tomb of the window behind the
Unknown Soldiers in choir dates from 1514.
the chapterhouse.



















Lofty nave
by Afonso
Domingues

The chapel is
topped by an
octagonal lantern.


The tomb of João I and
his English wife Philippa
of Lancaster, lying hand
in hand in the Founder’s
Chapel, was begun in
1426 by Huguet.


Main
entrance The ornate Gothic
Mosteiro de Santa
Maria da Vitória
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EXPERIENCE Estremadura and Ribatejo















3 geometric and floral designs.
The architect is believed to
TOMAR have been Francisco de
Holanda (1517–84), who

! E4 £ Tomar @ From Lisbon, Coimbra & Leiria worked for King João III.
n Avenida Dr Cândido Madureira; 249 329 823
Founded in 1157 by Gualdim Pais, the first Grand Master 2
of the Order of the Templars in Portugal, Tomar is Museu Luso-Hebraico
dominated by the Convento de Cristo. The heart of de Abraham Zacuto
this charming town is a neat grid of narrow streets. ⌂ Rua Dr Joaquim Jacinto
§ 249 329 814
¢ For renovations
1 basilica Nossa Senhora da Built in 1430–60, with four tall
Conceição. Built between
Nossa Senhora 1530 and 1550, it was columns and a vaulted ceiling,
da Conceição conceived as a funerary this is one of the oldest
pantheon. Its simple exterior synagogues in Portugal. The
⌂ Ermida da Imaculada
Conceição § 249 322 427 contrasts with the elegantly building was last used as a
proportioned and delicately place of worship in 1497, after
On the slopes of the hill carved Corinthian columns of which Manuel I banished all
leading up to the Convento the interior. The ceiling of the Jews who refused to convert
do Cristo is the Renaissance transept is decor ated with to Christianity. It has since had
a varied existence, serving
as a prison, a hay loft and
a warehouse. Today, it
appropriately holds a small
Jewish museum named after
Abraham Zacuto, a renowned
15th-century astronomer
and mathematician.


The ornately decorated
interior of Nossa Senhora
da Conceição, dating from
the Renaissance
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Must See

The Convento de Cristo
overlooking the pretty
town of Tomar, on the
Nabão river


Order of the Templars, and
is capped by an octagonal-
spired belfry, with a clock.
Inside, there is a carved
stone pulpit and 16th- MATA NACIONAL
century paintings including DOS SETE MONTES
a depiction of the Last Supper Originally the Convento
by Gregório Lopes (1490– de Cristo’s gardens,
1550). A particularly gory the Mata Nacional dos
painting of the beheading of Sete Montes (National
John the Baptist hanging here Forest of the Seven
is also attributed to Lopes. Hills) is the perfect
The area outside the church place for a walk. Local
is the focus of the spectacular families descend on
Festa dos Tabuleiros (p41), a the green space at
festival with pagan origins weekends for picnics
3 held in July, every four years. in the sunshine and
strolls in the extensive
During the celebrations,
Museu dos Fósforos girls dressed in white carry woodlands. There are
towering platters of bread various marked wood­
⌂ Av General Bernardo and flowers on their heads. land trails to explore, as
Faria # Tue–Sun well as a more formal
¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec The festival has similar roots
to the Festa do Espírito landscaped area by the
The former cloisters of the Santo, which is popular in park entrance.
17th-century church of São the Azores.
Francisco now house the
Museu dos Fósforos. This
museum proudly boasts
the largest collection of Jardim da
matches in Europe, with Nossa Senhora Pequena Mouchão
Parque
over 43,000 matchboxes da Conceição
from 104 countries of the R. DO CAMARÃO
world on display. The boxes RUA SACADURA CABRAL Rio Nabão
depict everything from dino- RUA DOUTOR JOSÉ MARIA DE SOUS A R U A G I L D E A V Ô
A V E N I D A M A R Q U Ê S D E T O M A R
saurs to Nazi propaganda. C O L I N A D O C A S T E LO R U A A L E X A N D R E R U A
H E R C U L A N O
You don’t have to be a S E R P A P I N T O
RUA SILVIA MAGA LHÃES
phillumenist to appreciate São João RUA JOÃO CARLOS EVERARD
Baptista
this curious museum. A V E N IDA D O U T O R V I E I R A G U I M A R Ã E S REPÚBLICA R U A D E S Ã O J O Ã O B A P T I S T A
R UA D O U TOR
PRAÇA DA
JOAQ U I M J ACINTO
Museu
Convento Luso-Hebraico de Museu da
de Cristo Abrahma Zacuto Lavada
4 RUA DO PÉ DA COSTA DE BAIXO R. DONA AURORA DE MACEDO
PRACETA
São João Baptista R. INFANTA RIA 1 5 RUA PEDRO DIAS ALVES REDOL
⌂ Praça da República A V E N I D A C Â N D I D O M A D U R E I R A RUA TOR
RUA DA
§ 249 312 611 SABOARIA
Mata Nacional dos
The lively shopping street, Sete Montes R U A D O S A R C O S SABOARIA
Rua Serpa Pinto, leads to RUA GENERAL TAMAGNINI DE ABREU LARGO DA RES PINHE
the Gothic church of São BERNARDO FARIA ANTÓ
RUA DO CONDE
João Baptista on Praça da LARGO RUA CO RO NE L L U ÍZ
República, the town’s main FERREIRA IRO
LARGO 5 DE
square. The late-15th-century E S T R A D A P L A N A LT O 5 DE OUTUBRO NIO APA RÍC IO
OUTUBRO
church has an elegant BERNARDO FARIA
GRANDE GUERRA
Manueline portal, complete Museu dos AVE DOS COMBATENTESDA
AVE. GENE RAL
Fósforos
with the coat of arms of the
0 metres 200 N
Railway
0 yards 200 Station
174-175_EW_Portugal.indd 175 20/09/2018 10:40

5 "
CONVENTO


DE CRISTO


EXPERIENCE Estremadura and Ribatejo Crowning the wooded hill that overlooks Tomar, the Convento de The “Bread” Cloister,
! E4 ⌂ 15-minute walk from Tomar centre £ Tomar @ From Lisbon,
Coimbra, Leiria # Jun–Sep: 9am–6:30pm daily (to 5:30pm Oct–May)
¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ conventocristo.pt
Cristo is a magnificent complex of chapels, cloisters and a medieval
castle, showing the wealth and importance of the Order of Christ.

Founded in 1160 by the Grand Master of the
where loaves were
Cloister of the
given to the poor
Templars, the Convent of Christ still retains
Crows, flanked
by an aqueduct
some reminders of these monk-knights and
the inheritors of their mantle, the Order of Christ.
Under Henry the Navigator, the governor of the
order from 1418, cloisters were built between the
Charola (the Templars’ church) and the fortress,
but it was the reign of João III (1521–57) that saw
the greatest changes. Architects such as
João de Castilho and Diogo de
Arruda, engaged to express the
order’s power and royal patron-
age in stone, built the church and
cloisters with dazzling Manueline
flourishes, which reached a
crescendo with the window in
the west front of the church.




Great Cloister

The Terrace of Wax,
where honeycombs
were left to dry

THE ORDER OF CHRIST
During the 12th and 13th centuries, the
crusading Order of the Knights Templar
helped the Portuguese in their battle
against the Moors. In return they were
rewarded with extensive lands and
political power. In 1314, Pope Clement V
was forced to suppress the order but, in
Portugal, King Dinis renamed it the
Order of Christ, and it inherited the
Templar’s properties. In 1356, Tomar
The Charola on the became the order's headquarters.
south side of the
Convento de Cristo
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Must See













1 2
1 Begun in the 1550s, probably by Diogo de
Torralva, the Great Cloister reflects João III’s
passion for Italian art.
2 Expressive carvings are found throughout
the Convento de Cristo.
3 The original 12th-century Templar church,
the Charola – sometimes called the Rotunda –
was built in the shape of a 16-sided drum.
Manueline window

The Manueline
church has ornate
ribbed vaulting.
3

Charola
The magnificent complex of
buildings that make up the
Convento de Cristo



Monks’ tombstones pave
the perimeter of the early-
15th-century Cemetery
Cloister, the first to be
built here. In one corner
stands a well.




Ruins of the
The south portal former royal
is initialled by João quarters
de Castilho.
The Washing Cloister was
built around a pair of
large reservoirs, today Entrance
planted with flowers.

In 1160, the Templars’
Grand Master built this
castle on land given to the
order for services in battle.


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EXPERIENCE MORE



4
Berlenga Islands
! C4 g From Peniche
EXPERIENCE Estremadura and Ribatejo Monks, a lighthouse keeper,
n Rua Alexandre
Herculano, Peniche; 262
789 571
fishermen and biologists
have inhabited this rocky
archipelago that juts out from
the Atlantic Ocean 12 km
(7 miles) from the mainland.
Berlenga Grande, the biggest
island, can be reached by ferry
in about an hour. This island is
a nature reserve with nesting
sites for sea birds. On the
southeast side of the island is
the 17th-century penta gonal
Forte de São João Baptista.
This stark, stone fort suffered
repeated assaults from
pirates and foreign armies.
Today it is a basic hostel.
Small boats can be hired
from the jetty to explore the Stone fortress
marine grottoes around the of São João on
island. Furado Grande is the Berlenga Grande
most spec tacular of these; a
70-m (230-ft) tunnel, opening
into the Covo do Sonho includes a look into the prison 6
(Dream Cove) framed by cells. On Largo 5 de Outubro,
imposing red granite cliffs. the Igreja da Misericórdia has Baleal
17th-century painted ceiling ! D4 ⌂ 3 km (2 miles)
panels depicting the Life of north of Peniche
5 Christ, and patterned azulejo This picturesque village,
panels from the same period.
Peniche On the peninsula’s western which bustles with water-
head land, 2 km (1 mile) from front cafés, bars and res-
! D4 @ n Rua Alexandre
Herculano; 262 789 571 Peniche, Cabo Carvoeiro taurants, is squeezed on
affords grand views of the to a little islet on the coast.
Set on a peninsula, this small, strange-shaped rocks along Baleal is connected to the
pleasant town is partly en - the eroded coastline. Here, the mainland by a narrow
closed by 16th-century walls. interior of the chapel of Nossa causeway, with superb sandy
Totally dependent on its port, Senhora dos Remédios is beaches on either side. One
Peniche has good fish restaur- adorned with 18th-century side of the causeway is shel-
ants and deep-sea fishing tiles on the Life of the Virgin tered, making it the chosen
facil ities. At the water’s edge attributed to the workshop of spot for bathers, whilst the
on the south side of town António de Oliveira Bernardes. other, with its good breakers,
stands the 16th-century is a surfers’ haunt. Unsurpris-
Fortaleza, used as a prison Museu de Peniche ingly, Baleal is home to
during the Salazar regime. The " ⌂ Campo da República several surf schools offering
fortress was made famous by § 262 780 116 # 9am– lessons to beginners and
the escape in 1960 of the 12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun organizing trips to nearby
Communist leader Álvaro (from 10am Sat & Sun); last swells for more experienced
Cunhal. Inside, the Museu de adm 30 mins before closing practitioners. Vehicles are
Peniche offers a tour that ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec best left at the car parks
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is decorated with a fishing net,
the emblem of Dona Leonor,
Did You Know? wife of João II. She chose this
emblem in honour of the fish-
When King Dinis ermen who tried in vain to STAY
married Isabel of save her son from drowning.
Aragon in 1282, Óbidos Opposite the pillory is the Casa das Marés 2
was given to her as a church of Santa Maria, with a Overlooking the
wedding present. simple Renaissance portal. causeway and fine
The future Afonso V was beach at Baleal, this
married to his cousin Isabel family-run B&B offers
here in 1441. He was ten years stunning views and
on the mainland side of the old, she eight. The interior of cosy interiors.
causeway, from where it is an the church retains a simple ! D4 ⌂ Rua Raúl
easy walk to the islet. clarity with a painted wooden Brandão, Baleal
ceiling and 17th-century tiles. ∑ casadasmares2.com
In the chancel, a retable depic-
7 ting the Mystic Marriage of St ¡¡¡
Catherine (1661) is by Josefa de
Óbidos Óbidos. The artist lived most Flattered
of her life in Óbidos and is Apartments
! D4 £ @ n Rua da
Porta da Vila (Parque do buried in the church of São Tastefully furnished
Estacionamento Grande); Pedro on Largo de São Pedro. one- or two-bedroom
262 959 231 Her work is also on display in apartments in a
the Museu Municipal. traditional townhouse,
This enchanting hill town Dominating Óbidos is near the main sights.
with white washed houses the castle, rebuilt by Afonso ! E4 ⌂ Rua de Santa
is enclosed within 14th- Henriques after he took the Iria 11 & 21, Tomar
century walls. From the town from the Moors in 1148. ∑ flattered
13th century, Óbidos was an Today it is a charming pousada. apartments.com
important port, but by the The path along the battle-
16th century the river had ments affords fine views. ¡¡¡
silted up. The town has since Southeast of town is the
been restored and preserved. Baroque Santuário do Senhor Pousada Castelo
The entrance into the town da Pedra, a church begun in Óbidos
is through the southern gate, 1740 to a hexagonal plan. The rooms in this
Porta da Vila, whose interior converted 15th-
is embellished with 18th- Museu Municipal century castle feature
century tiles. Rua Direita, the " ⌂ Solar da Praça de Santa four-poster beds and
main shopping street, leads to Maria, Rua Direita § 262 959 chandeliers.
Praça de Santa Maria. Here, a 299 # 10am–1pm, 2–6pm ! D4 ⌂ Paço Real,
Manueline pelourinho (pillory) Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec Óbidos ∑ pousadas.pt
¡¡¡

















Perched on the hilltop,
the enchanting walled
town of Óbidos
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EXPERIENCE Estremadura and Ribatejo Pottery shop in Caldas







da Rainha selling local
ceramics (inset)


8
little viewpoint in
São Martinho do Porto
the old part of São
Martinho do Porto.
! D4 @ n Rua Vasco da takes you up to a
Gama; 262 989 110
This pleasant little resort, with 9
its safe waters, is an exception
to most of the others along Caldas da Rainha
this stretch of the coast, which ! D4 £ @ n Rua
are only recommended for Engenheiro Duarte Saltwater Lagoa de Óbidos,
surfers. Connected to the Pacheco; 262 240 000 15 km (9 miles) west of Caldas
Atlantic Ocean by a small da Rainha, is a calm, sheltered
passage between the hills, The “queen’s hot springs”, a lagoon that is popular for
São Martinho do Porto sits on sprawling spa town, owes its sailing and fishing.
a curving, almost landlocked prosperity to three different
bay, making its soft sands fields: thermal cures, ceramics Museu de Cerâmica
both safe and extremely and fruit farming. The town is " ⌂ Rua Dr Ilídio Amado
appealing, especially for named after Dona Leonor, § 262 840 280 # 10am–
families. If you head south founder of the Misericórdia 12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–
along the beach, it doesn’t hospital on Largo Rainha Sun (to 6pm Apr–Oct) A fisherman hanging out
take long to find a patch of Dona Leonor. The original ¢ 1 Jan, 1 & 15 May, 25 Dec his nets to dry on the
sand to yourself, even in the hospital chapel later became beach at Nazaré
height of summer. the impressive Manueline
Most of the largely modern Igreja do Populo, built by
resort buildings sit at the Diogo Boitac. Inside is the 10 "\-=
northern end of the bay, 15th-century chapel of São Bacalhôa Buddha
where you can hire kayaks and Sebastião, decorated Eden Gardens
pedalos. Don’t miss the lift ride with 18th-century azulejos. ! D4 ⌂ Quinta dos Loridos,
from the tourist office, which The shops on Rua da Carvalhal Bombarral
Liberdade sell ceramics, # 9am–6pm daily
including the local green
GREAT VIEW ∑ bacalhoa.pt
To the majolica ware. Examples of
Lighthouse the work of the caricaturist Eastern statues stand out
Walk up the steep path and potter Rafael Bordalo against the quintessential
Pinheiro (1846–1905) can
Portuguese landscape of
above the quayside be seen in the Museu de cork and olive trees in these
to the lighthouse for Cerâmica, in the ceramics uniquely beautiful gardens.
sublime views across
São Martinho do Porto factory. The Museu José Disturbed by the destruction
Malhoa is dedicated to the
of the Bamiyan Buddha
and the bay.
artist known as “the painter statues by the Taliban
of Portuguese sun and light”. in Afghanistan in 2001,
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Explore the spacious gardens, but there’s town is Sítio, reached by a
charmingly land­ also a land train which beetles funicular that climbs 110 m
scaped lawns, deeply through the gardens. Don’t (360 ft). At the cliff edge
stands the tiny Ermida da
miss trying the estate’s wine,
wooded areas and a which is sold at the on­site Memória. This is said to be
central lake, while restaurant, café and shop. where the Virgin Mary saved
admiring over 200 Dom Fuas Roupinho, a local
Eastern­inspired dignitary, and his horse from
fol lowing a deer that leapt off
sculptures, statues 11 the cliff in a sea mist in 1182.
and modern art. Nazaré Across the square from this
! D4 @ n Avenida Vieira chapel, the 17th­century
church of Nossa Senhora da
Guimarães 54, Mercado
José Berardo – a wealthy Municipal; 262 561 194 Nazaré, with two Baroque
philanthropist – designated belfries and 18th­century
the Bacalhôa Buddha Eden Beside a glorious beach in a tiles inside, con tains an
Gardens as a place for every­ sweeping bay backed by anonymous painting of
one to enjoy regardless of steep cliffs, this fishing village the miraculous rescue.
their wealth, ethnicity, religion is a popular summer resort The church also contains the
or sexual orientation. that has maintained some of revered image of Our Lady
Explore the charmingly its traditional character. of Nazaré. In September this
landscaped lawns, deeply Fishermen dressed in checked statue is borne down to the
wooded areas and a central shirts and black stocking caps, sea in a traditional procession.
lake, while admiring over 200 and fish wives wearing several The Visigothic church of São
Eastern­inspired sculptures, layers of petticoats can still be Gião, 5 km (3 miles) south of
statues and modern art at seen mending nets and Nazaré, has fine sculpting and
every turn. Many of these drying fish on wire racks on well­proportioned arches.
are of Buddha, including a the beach. The bright boats
21­m­ (69­ft­) high “Giant with tall prows that were once
Buddha” and an enormous hauled from the sea by oxen
reclining figure. You’ll also are still used, although now
encounter cobalt blue replicas they have a proper anchorage Did You Know?
of the Xi’an Terracotta Warriors south of the beach. According
from China, as well as a fascin­ to legend, the name Nazaré Rodrigo Koxa mastered
ating separate section for comes from a statue of the the largest wave ever
imaginative contemporary Virgin Mary brought to the surfed, 80 ft (24 m)
and African sculptures. town by a monk from high, at Nazaré.
You could easily spend half Nazareth in the 4th century.
a day wandering around the High on the cliff above the

A fisherman hanging out
his nets to dry on the
beach at Nazaré






















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The resplendent hilltop
Castelo de Leiria was part of
the defence system of central
Por tugal. In the early 1300s,
King Dinis turned the castle
into a royal residence for
himself and his queen, Isabel
of Aragon. Within the battle-
ments is the Gothic church of
EXPERIENCE Estremadura and Ribatejo Porto de Mós castle, and the town below.
Nossa Senhora da Pena. The
view from the castle loggia
over looks the Pinhal de Leiria
The old town is full of charm,
with grace ful arcades and the
small 12th-century church of
São Pedro on Largo de São
Pedro. The muted 16th-century
Sé above Praça Rodri gues
towering over the
Lobo has an altar piece in the
chancel painted in 1605 by
town's red roofs
Avenida Marquês de Pombal,
opposite the castle, an 18th-
12
110 m (360 ft) into tunnels
century stairway ascends to
Porto de Mós are the biggest, descending Simão Rodrigues. From
the ela borate 16th-century
and walkways around sub-
terranean lakes. A tour through Santuário de Nossa Senhora
! D4 @ n Jardim
Municipal; 244 491 323 caverns with names such as da Encarnação. The small
the “Jewel Room”, past bizarre Baroque interior is tightly
Originally a Moorish fort, and rocks dubbed “Chinese Hat” or packed with colourful geo-
rebuilt over the cen turies by “Jellyfish”, ends in a theatrical metric azulejo panels and
successive Christian kings, a light-and-water show. 17th-century paintings of
rather fanciful castle perches the Life of the Virgin.
on a hill above the small town Museu Municipal
of Porto de Mós. Its present ⌂ Travessa de São Pedro Castelo de Leiria
appearance, with green cone- § 244 499 652 # 9am– " ⌂ Largo de São Pedro
shaped turrets and an exquisite 12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sat § 244 839 670 # Apr–Sep:
loggia, was the inspired work ¢ Public hols 10am–6pm; Oct–Mar:
of King Afonso IV’s master 9:30am–5:30pm ¢ 1 Jan,
builders in 1420. Grutas de Mira de Aire Easter, 25 Dec
In the town below, the " ⌂ Av Dr Luciano Justo
13th-century church of São Ramos § 244 440 322
João Baptista retains its orig- # Daily
inal Romanesque portal. In
the public gardens is the richly
decorated Baroque church of 13
São Pedro. Just off the Praça
da República, the Museu Leiria
Municipal displays a varied ! D4 £ @ n Jardim Luís
collection of local finds dating de Camões; www.turismo
back to Roman remains and docentro.pt
dinosaur bones. More modern
exhibits include the local mós An episcopal city since 1545,
(millstones), as well as present- Leiria is set in attractive
day ceramics and woven rugs. countryside on the banks of
The area south of Porto de the Lis river. Originally the
Mós is dotted with vast and Roman town of Collipo, it
spectacular under ground was recaptured from the
caverns with odd rock Moors by Afonso Henriques
formations and festoons of in the 12th century. In 1254,
stalactites and stalagmites. Afonso III held a cortes here,
The Grutas de Mira de Aire, the first parliament attended
17 km (11 miles) southeast, by common laymen.
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Neo­Baroque limestone
basilica, flanked by statues of
Did You Know? saints, has a huge tower and
an espla nade twice the size of EAT
The Marquês de St Peter’s Square in Rome.
Pombal was banished On 12 and 13 of May and
to Pombal from October, vast crowds of pil­ Tromba Rija
Lisbon in 1777 by grims arrive to commemorate A homely restaurant
Queen Maria. appear ances of the Virgin to with a generous starter
three shepherd children (the buffet that gives the
three pastorinhos). On 13 May chance to sample
1917, 10­year­old Lucia Santos Portuguese delicacies.
14 and her young cousins, Jacinta ! D4 ⌂ Rua Professores
Portela 22, Leiria
and Francisco Marto, saw a
Pombal shining figure in a holm oak ¢ Mon & Sun D
tree. The apparition ordered ∑ trobarija.com
! D3 £ @ n Rua do the child ren to return to the
Castelo; 236 210 556 ¡¡¡
tree on the same day for six
This small town of white­ months and by 13 October, Tia Alice
washed houses is overlooked 70,000 pilgrims were with the
by the stately castle, founded children by the tree. Only Chef Tia Alice creates
in 1161 by the Knights Templar Lucia heard the “Secret of exquisite regional
(p176). The town is closely Fátima”, spoken on her last dishes at this simple
associated with the Marquês appea rance. The first part rustic restaurant.
de Pombal (p45). In Praça of the secret was a vision ! D4 ⌂ Rua do Adro 152,
Marquês de Pombal, the of hell; the second was of a Fátima §  249 531 737
old prison and the celeiro war more devastating than ¢ Mon & Sun D
(granary) are adorned with World War I. The third part, a ¡¡¡
the Pombal family crest. The vision of papal assassin ation,
Museu Marquês de Pombal was finally revealed by Pope
features a collec tion of John Paul II on the occasion
documents and artworks of the millennium. The Pope
focusing on the Marquis. beatified Jacinta and Francisco 16
in 2000. Their tombs are inside
the basilica. Lucia became a Ourém
15 nun, and died in 2005. ! D4 ⌂ 10 km (6 miles)
Stained­glass windows
Fátima show scenes of the sightings. northeast of Fátima
In the esplanade, the Capela The medieval town of Ourém
! D4 @ n Avenida Dom
José Alves Correia da Silva; das Aparições marks the site is a walled citadel, dominated
of the appari tion. But for
by the 15th­century castle
www.turismodocentro.pt
many the best sight is the of Ourém, built by Afonso,
The sanctuary of Fátima is a emotion and faith of the grandson of Nuno Álvares
pilgrim des tin ation on a par penitents who approach Pereira (p173). His magnificent
with Lourdes in France. The the shrine on their knees. tomb is in the 15th­century
Wax limbs are burned as Igreja Matriz. The town’s name
offerings for miracles is said to derive from Oureana,
Fátima's basilica, per formed by the Virgin a Moorish girl who, before she
with its lovely and candles light the fell in love with a Christian
stained-glass espla nade during the knight and converted, was
windows (inset) night­time Masses. called Fátima.

















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lake nestles between hills
LUÍS VAZ DE CAMÕES covered in pine and eucalyp­
(1524–80) tus forests. Between the
The author of Portugal’s trees lie small, isolated vil­
celebrated epic poem, Os lages. The valley is a secluded
Lusìadas, had a passion­ area popular for boat ing,
ate nature. Banished fishing and watersports and
from court, he enlisted in it is possible to hire equip­
ment from centres along the
1547 and set sail for North
EXPERIENCE Estremadura and Ribatejo to serve his country in do Zêzere, in Castanheira on
lake shore. Canoes, windsurf
Africa, where he lost an
boards and water­skis can be
eye. Imprisoned after
found at the Centro Naútico
another brawl, he agreed
the western side of the lake,
India, but his was the
and the Centro Naútico de
only ship from the fleet
to survive the stormy
Castelo do Bode (www.mbp.
pai.pt). Yachting facilities are
seas. This experience
usually available from the
gave his subsequent
poem, published in 1572,
lakeside hotels, such as the
its vibrant power.
peaceful Estalagem Lago Azul
(www.estalagemlagoazul.com).
from the hotel, stop­ping at
17 "-
the sandy beaches and small
Barragem do
Pegadas dos
islands. There are some great
Castelo de Bode
Dinossáurios 18 A cruise can also be taken
spots for swimming, including
the so­called river beaches of
! D4 ⌂ Estrada de Fátima, ! E4 @ To dam 4 From
Bairro # Jun–Sep: 10am– Castanheira # By appt Alverangel, Montes and
Castenheira, locally known
6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–8pm (249 362 239) n Avenida
Sat & Sun; Oct–Mar: Dr Cândido Madureira, as the Lago Azul because
10am–12:30pm, 2–6pm Tomar; 249 329 823 of its deep blue colour.
Tue–Sun ∑ pegadasde Perhaps there once was a
dinossaurios.org
“Castle of the Billygoat”, but 19
In a former quarry in the today the name refers to a
heart of the Parque Natural large dam (barragem) that Abrantes
das Serras de Aire, you will blocks the flow of the Zêzere ! E4 £ @ n Esplanada 1°
find these superbly preserved river 10 km (6 miles) up stream de Maio; 241 330 100
dinosaur footprints. Discovered from its confluence with
in 1994, they belong to sauro­ the Tagus. Construction Grandly situated above
pods that, at 30 m (98 ft) in of the dam began in 1946 to the Tagus river, the town of
length, were some of the serve the first of Portugal’s Abrantes was once of strategic
largest land animals to hydroelectric power stations. importance. It had a vital
have ever lived. Above it, a long, sprawl ing role in the Reconquista, and
In the late Triassic Period, during the Peninsular War
the area was a shallow lagoon. both the French General Junot
As the dinosaurs made their and the Duke of Wellington
way through the sediments, made it a base. The defensive
they left prints, which then walls of the early­13th­century
solidified into limestone. ruined fortress that overlooks
There are hundreds of tracks the town and the surrounding
to follow, including one set of flatlands is a reminder of its
prints that is 147 m (482 ft) in important status.
length – by studying the tracks The 15th­century church
experts can estimate the size of Santa Maria do Castelo,
of the animals. You can also within the castle walls, is now
take the walkway around the the small Museu Dom Lopo
open­air museum and watch de Almeida. Besides an
an informative film at the extensive collection of local
ticket office, which explains archaeological finds, sculpture,
more about these herbivorous Castelo de Bode, the vestments, ethno graphy and
giants that once lived here dam that controls the sacred art, it houses the
some 200 million years ago. flow of the Zêzere river tombs of the Almeida family,
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Walking trail near the village
of Constância, running
beside the Zêzere river

counts of Abrantes, and the República, honours Gil Vicente, 21
richest and most remarkable the 16th-century playwright
nucleus of Sevillian dry-stone who was born here. Castelo de Almourol
tiles in the country. ! E4 § 915 081 737 @ To
On Rua da República, the Museu Dom Lopo Barquinha then taxi and
Misericórdia church, construc- de Almeida ferry # Tue–Sun during
ted in 1584, has six magnificent ⌂ Rua Capitão Correia de day light hours
religious panels attributed to Lacerda § 241 371 724
Gregório Lopes (1490–1550). # Tue–Sun Dramatically set on a tiny
The 16th-century church of island in the Tagus, this
São Tiago e São Mateus, enchanting castle was built
located in the unspoiled town 20 over a Roman fortress in 1171
of Sardoal, 8 km (5 miles) by Gualdim Pais. Legends of
north of Abrantes, holds a Constância this magical place abound. A
com pelling thorn-crowned ! E4 ⌂ 12 km (7 miles) 16th-century verse romance
Christ by the 16th-century west of Abrantes called Palmeirim de Inglaterra
painter, the Master of Sardoal. weaves an intricate tale of
An 18th-century tile panel on The pretty whitewashed town giants and knights, as well
the façade of the Capela do of Constância nurtures the as the fight of the crusader
Espírito Santo, in Praça da memory of the poet Luís Vaz Palmeirim for the lovely
de Camões, who lived here for Polinarda. Some say the castle
three years before he was is haunted by the ghost of a
banished from court in 1546 princess sighing for the love
for writing a love sonnet to a of her Moorish slave.
lady who was also favoured by
King João III. The riverside
gardens seen today were GREAT VIEW
influenced by those described Capture
in his poem Os Lusiadas. the Castle
The town sits on the con- With a car, head to
fluence of the Tagus and Zêzere Bar do Castelo, off the
rivers, and there are lovely M1191. This little bar is
local walks along their shores. on the opposite bank of
the Tagus to Castelo de
Almourel, making it a
great spot to enjoy a
Statue of Francisco de refreshing drink and
Almeida in front of the take a photo.
castle at Abrantes
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22
Santarém
! D4 £ @ n Rua Capelo
Ivens 63; 243 304 437
The lively district capital of the
Ribatejo, overlooking the
Tagus, has an illustrious past.
EXPERIENCE Estremadura and Ribatejo Moors it was the stronghold of PraÇa Sá da a Bandeira, town. The ruins of the
To Julius Caesar it was an
important bureaucratic centre,
Praesidium Julium. To the
Xantarim. To the Portuguese
kings, Santarém was the site
of many gatherings of the
cortes (parliaments).
12th-century fortress now
a square at the heart of
At the centre of the old
Santarém’s old town
enclose a garden. Just below
town, in Praça Sá da a
the castle is the 16th-century
Misericórdia church with a
Bandeira, is the vast Igreja do
Seminário, a multi-windowed
Igreja de Marvila, built in the
interior lined with colourful
Baroque edifice built by João
IV for the Jesuits in 1640 on
12th century and later altered,
“carpet” azulejos from 1674.
has a Manueline portal and is
The Igreja de Santiago, on
the site of a royal palace. The
huge interior has a painted older buildings. The lofty Renaissance portal and an
lined with dazzling early-17th-
Largo do Paço, was probably
wooden ceiling and marble century diamond-patterned built in 1203, although a gilded
and gilt ornamen tation. From azulejo panels. The medieval retable with a wood carving
here, Rua Serpa Pinto runs 22-m- (72-ft-) high Torre das of the young Jesus as sisting
southeast past a cluster of Cabaças was once a clock Joseph in his carpentry is a
tower and now houses 17th-century addition.
a small museum of time. In the centre of town is the
Opposite the tower, the Museu Municipal de Carlos
Museu Arqueológico was Reis, named after the painter
EAT formerly the Romanesque Carlos Reis (1863–1940), who
was born here. The museum
church of São João de Alporão.
Rua Serpa Pinto leads into contains paintings by 19th-
Sabores da Cascata Rua 5 de Outubro and up to the and early-20th-century artists
With a fine terrace Jardim das Portas do Sol, built and a 15th- century Gothic
overlooking the Tejo, on the site of a Moorish castle. figure of Nossa Senhora do Ó.
this eatery serves The gardens are enclosed by
delicious Ribatejan the city’s medieval walls. Museu Municipal de
specialities. Returning into town, on Carlos Reis
! E4 ⌂ Edifício de São Largo Pedro Álvares Cabral, the ⌂ Rua do Salvador § 249 812
Domingos, Rua de São 14th-century Igreja da Graça 535 # 9am–12:30pm, 2pm–
Domingos, 2nd floor, has a spectacular rose window 5:30pm Tue–Fri, 2–5:30pm
Abrantes § 241 364 453 carved from a single stone. Sat & Sun) ¢ Public hols
Further south, the 14th-century
¡¡¡
Igreja do Santíssimo Milagre,
on Rua Braamcamp Freire,
Taberna do has a Renaissance interior 24
Quinzena I Golegã
Established in 1872, this and 16th-century azulejos.
traditional restaurant ! E4 @ n Rua de D Afonso
serves local fare such as Henriques, Largo da
goat and bacalhau. 23 Imaculada Conceição;
! D4 ⌂ Rua Pedro de Torres Novas 249 979 002
Santarém 93–95, Usually a quiet town, Golegã
Santarém ¢ Sun ! E4 @ n Largo dos is overrun during the first two
∑ quinzena.com Combatentes 4–5; weeks of November by horse
249 813 019
¡¡¡ enthusiasts who throng to
Animated streets and fine the annual Feira Nacional do
churches cluster be neath the Cavalo. This horse fair coincides
castle walls of this hand some with the tasting of the year’s
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new wine on St Martin’s Day in the late 19th century, it and Oriental rugs, as well as
(11 November). On this day, houses paintings from the early Portuguese Arraiolos
revelers drink the young wine, 17th century, including a carpets, including a partic­
known as agua-pé (literally, charm ing Divine Shepherdess ularly fine one in silk.
“foot water”). in the sacristy in which the
In the centre of town, the young Jesus is shown Casa Museu dos Patudos
16th­century Igreja Matriz, conversing with a sheep. " ⌂ 2 km (1 mile) S of
attributed to Diogo Boitac, On the southern outskirts Alpiarça on N118 § 243 558
has an exquisite Manueline of town is the striking Casa 321 # Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
portal and an interior rich in Museu dos Patudos, sur­
azulejos. The small Casa- rounded by vineyards. This
Estúdio Carlos Relvas is was the residence of the TOP CENTRAL
5
housed in the elegant Art wealthy and cultivated José PORTUGUESE
Nouveau house and studio of Relvas (1858–1929), an art DISHES
the photographer (1838–94). collector and – briefly –
premier of the Republic. The Feijoada
Casa-Estúdio Carlos Relvas exterior of this eye­catching Paprika-spiced stew of
" ⌂ Largo Dom Manuel I country house, built for him beans and vegetables,
§ 249 979 120 # 9:30am– by Raúl Lino in 1905–9, has with cured meat.
1pm, 2–5pm Tue–Sun (to simple white washed walls and
7pm Jun–Sep) ¢ Public hols a green­and­white striped Caldeirada da Peixe
spire. The colonnaded loggia, A stew of fish, peppers,
reached via an outside stair­ tomatoes and potatoes.
25 case, is lined with azulejo Favas à Portuguesa
panels. The museum contains
Alpiarça Relvas’s personal collection Fava beans combined
of fine and decorative art. with morcela (blood
! E4 @ n Praça José sausage) and pork ribs.
Faustino Rodrigues Re naissance paintings include
Virgin with Child and St John
Pinhão; 243 556 000 Arroz Doce
by the school of Leonardo
Set in the vast, fertile plain da Vinci and Christ in the Tomb Lemon zest-scented rice
known as the Lezíria, which by the German school. There pudding with cinnamon.
stretches east of the Tagus and are also paintings by Delacroix Magusto
is famous for horse breeding, and Zurbarán as well as many A purée of dry maize and
Alpiarça is a small, neat town. works by 19th­century Portu­ white bread blended
The fine twin­towered parish guese artists, including 30 by with water and kale,
church, on Rua José Relvas, is Relvas’s friend, José Malhôa. served with bacalhau.
dedicated to Santo Eustáquio, Relvas also collected exquisite
patron saint of the town. Built porcelain, bronzes, furniture





















Horses and riders parading
at the annual Feira Nacional
do Cavalo in Golegã
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Admiring the collection in
the Museu do Neo-Realismo,
Vila Franca de Xira

27
Coruche
EXPERIENCE Estremadura and Ribatejo 619 072
! E5 £ @ n Galeria do
Mercado Municipal; 243

Coruche is an attractive
little town in the heart of
bullfighting country with a
riverside location overlooking
the Lezíria, the wide open
plain that stretches east of
the Tagus river. The town,
inhabited since Palaeolithic
times, was razed to the
ground in 1180 by the Moors
as reprisal against the
reconquering Christians.
In the central pedestrian
street, Rua de Santarém, the
O Coruja café is lined with
vivid modern azulejo panels
showing bulls in the Lezíria,
the town’s bullring and scenes
26 history are on display in the of local life. A short walk up
Museu Municipal. A collec-
the street stands the tiny
Vila Franca de Xira tion of Neo-Realist literature church of São Pedro. Inside,
and art dating from the early the church is completely
! D5 £ @ n Rua Alves
Redol 5; 263 285 605 20th century, mean while, is covered with 17th-century
found in the Museu do Neo- blue-and-yellow carpet tiles.
Sitting beside the Tagus, this Realismo, which comprises a An azulejo panel on the altar
town has a reputation larger library and exhibition space. front shows St Peter surroun-
than its modest appear ance The town centre retains ded by birds and animals.
suggests. Traditionally the an exuber antly tile-covered Above the town stands the
area has been the centre for market dating from the 1920s. simple 12th-century blue-
bull-and-horse rearing com- Further east, on Largo da and-white church of Nossa
munities. Twice a year, crowds Misericórdia, striking 18th- Senhora do Castelo. From
flock here to participate in century azulejos adorn the here there are excellent views
the bull-running through the chancel of the Misericórdia over the fertile agricul tural
streets and watch the tourada church. South of town, the land and cork oaks of the
and traditional horsemanship. Ponte Marechal Carmona, Sorraia valley and the Lezíria.
The animated and gaudy built in 1951, is the only
Festa do Colete Encarnado bridge across the Tagus
(named after the red waist- between Santarém to the 28
coat worn by campinos, the north and Lisbon to the south.
Ribatejo herds men) takes Alenquer
place over several days in Museu Municipal ! D5 @ n Parque Vaz
early July. The festival is a ⌂ Rua Serpa Pinto 65 Monteiro; 263 711 433
lively occasion with folk § 263 280 350 # 9:30am–
dancing, boat races on the 12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun Vila Alta, the old part of town,
Tagus and sardines grilled in ¢ Public hols climbs steeply up the slopes
the street. A similar festival, of the hillside, high above the
the Feira de Outubro, takes Museu do Neo-Realismo newer town by the river. In the
place in October. ⌂ Rua Alves Redol 45 central Praça Luís de Camões,
Archaeological exhibits and § 263 285 626 # 10am– the 15th-century church of
artifacts relating to regional 6:30pm daily São Pedro contains the tomb
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Napoleon’s troops during the
HIDDEN GEM Peninsular War. North of the
Holy Cow! town, near the restored fort of
Just 5 km (3 miles) São Vicente, traces of trenches
northwest of Alenquer, and bastions are still visible,
at Meca, you’ll find the but along most of the lines
huge Neo-Classical the forts and earth works
Basílica de Santa have gone, buried by time
Quitéria. A blessing of and rapid change.
cattle takes place at this Above the town, the
beautiful 18th-century restored walls of the 13th-
church each May. century castle embrace a
shady garden and the church
of Santa Maria do Castelo.
of the humanist chronicler and Down in the town, on Praça 25 Traditional tiles
native son, Damião de Góis de Abril, a memorial to those decorating the Convento
(1502–74). Pêro de Alenquer, who died in the Peninsular da Graça, Torres Vedras
a navigator for the explorers War stands in front of the
Bartolomeu Dias in 1488 and 16th-century Convento da
Vasco da Gama in 1497 (p114), Graça. Today the convent depicting scenes of daily life.
was also born here. Uphill, houses the well-lit Museu Behind the church, on Rua
near the ruins of a 13th-century Municipal. A room devoted to Cândido dos Reis, stands a
castle, the monastery church the Peninsular War displays a pretty 16th-century water
of São Francisco retains a model of the lines; other fountain that is worth seeing,
Manueline cloister and a interesting exhibits include a the Chafariz dos Canos
13th-century portal. Founded 15th-century Flemish School (Fountain of the Pipes).
in 1222, this was Portugal’s Retábulo da Vida da Virgem.
first Franciscan monastery. Open for Mass at weekends, Museu Municipal
the monastery church, Igreja " ⌂ Praça 25 de Abril § 261
da Graça, has a 17th-century 310 484 # Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan,
29 gilded altarpiece. In a niche Easter, 1 May, 24 & 25 Dec
in the chancel is the tomb of
Torres Vedras São Gonçalo de Lagos.
Beyond the pedestrian Rua
! D5 £ @ n Praça do
MunÍcipio, Edificio dos 9 de Abril, the Manueline
Paços do Concelho; 261 church of São Pedro greets DRINK
the visitor with an exotic
310 483
winged dragon on the portal.
The town is closely linked with The interior has a painted Museu Rural e
the Lines of Torres Vedras, wooden ceiling and walls do Vinho
fortified defenses built by the adorned with colourful The banks of the Tagus
Duke of Wellington to repel 18th-century azulejo panels river are well known for
their vineyards: take
the N118 north of
Santarém and you pass
many signs for vinho
do produtor (wine
producer), where you
can stop and buy local
produce. A good place
to learn about the
wines is at the Museum
Rural e do Vinho, which
also offers tastings in
a restored adega
(wine bar).
! D4 ⌂ Rua 25
de Abril, Cartaxo
§ 243 701 257
¢ Mon
Vineyard at Alenquer,
an area known for its
wine production
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Distinctive candy-striped beach houses in Costa Nova





























THE BEIRAS



The three provinces of the Beiras may not be a
tourist hub, but their past commercial and defen­
sive sig nifi cance has left its mark. In Beira Litoral,
the prows of Aveiro’s sea weed boats are a legacy
of trade with the Phoenicians, while Viseu – Beira
Alta’s capital – grew up at a crossroads of Roman
trading routes. The Romans were never as firmly
entrenched here as further south, but the ruins
of Conímbriga speak elo quently of the elegant
city that once stood here. It gave its name to
Coimbra, which temporarily became the country’s
capital from 1139 until 1260. Conscious of Spain’s
proximity and claim on their land, successive
Portuguese kings constructed a great defensive
chain of forts along the vulnerable eastern border.
These fortresses continued to prove vital in
the fight for inde pendence from Spain in the
17th century, and again against Napoleon’s forces.
Even Buçaco, revered for the peace and sanctity
of its forest, is known as the site of Wellington’s
successful stand against Masséna.
Despite the unforgiving terrain, the Beiras
are famed as the source of some gastronomic
treats: Portugal’s favourite cheese is made in
the Serra da Estrela, while the region’s red
wines are among Portugal’s best known.
191



190-191_EW_Portugal.indd 191 20/09/2018 10:40

B R A G
B R A G A N Ç A A N Ç A
Ermelo Ermelo
Trofa Trofa Abreiro Abreiro
V I L A
Santo Tirso Santo Tirso V I L A R E A L R E A L Vila Flor Vila Flor
Vila Real Vila Real Parada Parada
Mindelo Mindelo Alijó Alijó
THE BEIRASTHE BEIRAS CoronadoCoronado
FranciscoFrancisco DOURO ANDDOURO AND Sabrosa Sabrosa
Carrazeda de
Sá CarneiroSá Carneiro POR T OPOR T O TRÁ-OS-MONTES TRÁ-OS-MONTES Carrazeda de Rio Sabor Rio Sabor
Penafiel Penafiel
Ansiães Ansiães
Matosinhos Matosinhos p244 p244 Peso da Peso da
Valongo Valongo Régua Régua
Porto Porto Cambres Cambres Rio Douro Rio Douro
ArmamarArmamar São João São João Freixo de EspadaFreixo de Espada
Lamego Lamego da Pesqueirada Pesqueira Vila NovaVila Nova À Cinta À Cinta
Melres Melres de Foz Côa de Foz Côa
Tarouqela Tarouqela
Cinfães Cinfães
Espinho Espinho Tarouca Tarouca
PAIVA WALKWAYS Penedono Penedono
PAIVA WALKWAYS
Moimenta Moimenta
Santa Maria da FeiraSanta Maria da Feira da Beira da Beira
São João São João
S e r r a d e L
SERNANCELHESERNANCELHE
A tl anticA tl antic da Madeirada Madeira AROUCA AROUCA S e r r a d e L e o m i l e o m i l Marialva Marialva
Vila Nova Vila Nova
Oc eanOc ean OVAR OVAR Vale de Vale de de Paiva de Paiva Terranho Terranho Castelo Castelo
Rodrigo Rodrigo
Cambra Cambra
Serra de Arada
G U
V
Oliveira Oliveira Serra de Arada V I S E U I S E U Serra de Lapa TRANCOSO G U A R D A A R D A
TRANCOSO
Aguiar da Beira
Serra de Lapa
Estarreja Estarreja
Torreira Torreira A VEIR OA VEIR O Calde Calde Aguiar da Beira Vila Franca Vila Franca ALMEIDA
ALMEIDA
Pinhel
São Pedro São Pedro Sætão Sætão das Naves das Naves Pinhel
Albergaria-Albergaria-
THE BEIRAS São São Rio Vouga Rio Vouga do Sul do Sul Vila Vila
a-Velha a-Velha
Jacinto Jacinto Chã Chã
CELORICO
Penalva do Penalva do
Must Sees AVEIROAVEIRO Talhadas Talhadas Campia Campia VISEU VISEU CELORICO Pinzio Pinzio
Castelo Castelo
DA BEIRA
DA BEIRA
CARAMULOCARAMULO
1 Aveiro Ílhavo Ílhavo Rio Dão Rio Dão Mangualde Mangualde Vilar Vilar
Serra do Caramulo
Formoso Formoso
2 Coimbra Águeda Águeda Santar Santar Arrifana Arrifana Castelo Castelo
S E R R A D A E S T R E L A
Mendo
Mendo
3 Buçaco Vagos Vagos Serra do Caramulo Tondela Tondela Nelas Nelas Linhares Linhares GUARDAGUARDA Cerdeira Cerdeira
4 Serra da Estrela Sangalhos Sangalhos
PRAIA DEPRAIA DE Gouveia Gouveia Vale de Vale de Adão Adão Rio Côa Rio Côa
Estrela
Estrela
Experience More MIRA MIRA Curia Curia Carregal do Sal ParanhosParanhos Seia S E R R A D A E S T R E L A
Carregal do Sal
Seia
5 Paiva Walkways Mira Mira MealhadaMealhada LUSO LUSO Rio Mondego Rio Mondego ValhelhasValhelhas
MortáguaMortágua
OLIVEIRA DO
OLIVEIRA DO
HO
6 Praia de Mira HOSPITALSPITAL Manteigas Manteigas BELMONTE Alfaiates Alfaiates
BELMONTE
Cantanhede
SABUGAL
7 Arouca Cantanhede Tábua Tábua SABUGAL
8 Ovar Tocha Tocha Portunhos Portunhos BUÇACOBUÇACO Alto da Torre Alto da Torre SORTELHATELHA
SOR
Covilhã Covilhã
Serra da Malcata
9 Figueira da Foz PenacovaPenacova Vide Vide 1993m 1993m Caria Caria Serra da Malcata
10 Montemor-o-Velho MONTEMOR-MONTEMOR- Rio Alva Rio Alva PIÓDÃOPIÓDÃO Capinha Capinha
CO
11 Lousã FIGUEIRA O-VELHOO-VELHO COIMBRAIMBRA ARGANIL Tortozendo Tortozendo Valverde Valverde
FIGUEIRA
ARGANIL
Serra do Açor
12 Penela DA FOZDA FOZ C O I M B R AB R A Góis Góis Serra do Açor Rio Zêzere Rio Zêzere Fatela Fatela del Fresnodel Fresno
C O I M
PENAMACOR
13 Conímbriga Condeixa-Condeixa- LOUSÃLOUSÃ Silvares Silvares Fundão Fundão PENAMACOR
14 Luso Lavos Lavos a-Nova a-Nova Bogas deBogas de
Serra da Gardunha
15 Arganil Soure Soure CONÍMBRIGACONÍMBRIGA Baixo Baixo Serra da Gardunha Orca Orca Medelim Medelim
MON
16 Oliveira do Hospital PENELA PENELA Álvares Álvares MONSANTOSANTO
17 Píodão Rabaçal Rabaçal AlmacedaAlmaceda IDANHA-A-IDANHA-A-
18 Caramulo Guia Guia Serra do Muradal Tinalhas Tinalhas VELHAVELHA
Serra do Muradal
19 Viseu Barragem Barragem Idanha-a-Nova AlcafozesAlcafozes
Idanha-a-Nova
do Cabril do Cabril
Monte Redondo
20 Sernancelhe Monte Redondo PedrógãoPedrógão Oleiros Oleiros C A S T E L O B R A N C O N C O Rio Erges Rio Erges
C A S T E L O B R A
Serra de Alvélos
Pequeno Pequeno
21 Celorico da Beira LEIRIALEIRIA ESTREMADURAESTREMADURA Troviscal Troviscal Zarza Zarza
AND RIBATEJOAND RIBATEJO
22 Trancoso p166 p166 Serra de Alvélos Benquerenças CASTELOCASTELO Zebreira Zebreira la Mayor la Mayor
BRANCOBRANCO
Benquerenças
23 Almeida Sertã Sertã
Rio Ocresa
24 Guarda Leiria Leiria Freixianda Freixianda Proença- Proença- Rio Ocresa Rosmaninhal
Rosmaninhal
Beira B aixa
25 Belmonte Cardosos Cardosos Beira B aixa Ribeira de Isna a-Nova a-Nova Malpica Malpica Ribeira do Aravil Ribeira do Aravil AlcántaraAlcántara
Ribeira de Isna
26 Sabugal Batalha Batalha Ferreira Ferreira Vila de Rei Vila de Rei Vila VelhaVila Velha do Tejo do Tejo
27 Sortelha Ourém Ourém do Zêzeredo Zêzere do Ródãodo Ródão Rio Tejo Rio Tejo
28 Penamacor Cedillo Cedillo Salor Salor Brozas Brozas
29 Monsanto Tomar Tomar Mação Mação SP AINSP AIN
30 Idanha-a Velha S ANT ARÉMS ANT ARÉM Sardoal Sardoal ALENTEJOALENTEJO
31 Castelo Branco p292 p292 0 kilometres0 kilometres 20 N N
20
Constância Constância
P O R T A L
Alcanena Alcanena AbrantesAbrantes Ortiga Ortiga P O R T A L E G R E E G R E
0 miles 0 miles 20 20
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Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Pro

B R A G
B R A G A N Ç A A N Ç A
Ermelo Ermelo
Trofa Trofa Abreiro Abreiro
V I L A
Santo Tirso Santo Tirso V I L A R E A L R E A L Vila Flor Vila Flor
Vila Real Vila Real Parada Parada
Mindelo Mindelo Alijó Alijó
THE BEIRASTHE BEIRAS CoronadoCoronado
FranciscoFrancisco DOURO ANDDOURO AND Sabrosa Sabrosa
Carrazeda de
Sá CarneiroSá Carneiro POR T OPOR T O TRÁ-OS-MONTES TRÁ-OS-MONTES Carrazeda de Rio Sabor Rio Sabor
Penafiel Penafiel
Ansiães Ansiães
Matosinhos Matosinhos p244 p244 Peso da Peso da
Valongo Valongo Régua Régua
Porto Porto Cambres Cambres Rio Douro Rio Douro
ArmamarArmamar São João São João Freixo de EspadaFreixo de Espada
Lamego Lamego da Pesqueirada Pesqueira Vila NovaVila Nova À Cinta À Cinta
Melres Melres de Foz Côa de Foz Côa
Tarouqela Tarouqela
Cinfães Cinfães
Espinho Espinho Tarouca Tarouca
PAIVA WALKWAYS Penedono Penedono
PAIVA WALKWAYS
Moimenta Moimenta
Santa Maria da FeiraSanta Maria da Feira da Beira da Beira
S e r r a d e L
SERNANCELHESERNANCELHE
São João São João
A tl anticA tl antic da Madeirada Madeira AROUCA AROUCA S e r r a d e L e o m i l e o m i l Marialva Marialva
Vila Nova Vila Nova
Oc eanOc ean OVAR OVAR Vale de Vale de de Paiva de Paiva Terranho Terranho Castelo Castelo
Cambra Cambra
Rodrigo Rodrigo
Serra de Arada
G U
V
Oliveira Oliveira Serra de Arada V I S E U I S E U Serra de Lapa TRANCOSO G U A R D A A R D A
TRANCOSO
Aguiar da Beira
Serra de Lapa
Estarreja Estarreja
ALMEIDA
Torreira Torreira A VEIR OA VEIR O Calde Calde Aguiar da Beira Vila Franca Vila Franca ALMEIDA
Pinhel
São Pedro São Pedro Sætão Sætão das Naves das Naves Pinhel
Albergaria-Albergaria- do Sul do Sul
a-Velha a-Velha
São São Rio Vouga Rio Vouga Vila Vila
Jacinto Jacinto Chã Chã
CELORICO
AVEIROAVEIRO Talhadas Talhadas Campia Campia VISEU VISEU Penalva do Penalva do CELORICO Pinzio Pinzio
Castelo Castelo
DA BEIRA
CARAMULOCARAMULO DA BEIRA
Ílhavo Ílhavo Rio Dão Rio Dão Mangualde Mangualde Vilar Vilar
Serra do Caramulo
Formoso Formoso
Águeda Águeda Arrifana Arrifana Castelo Castelo
S E R R A D A E S T R E L A
Mendo
Mendo
Nelas
Vagos Vagos Santar Santar Nelas Linhares Linhares GUARDAGUARDA
Tondela Tondela
Sangalhos Sangalhos Serra do Caramulo Cerdeira Cerdeira
PRAIA DEPRAIA DE Gouveia Gouveia Vale de Vale de Adão Adão Rio Côa Rio Côa
MIRA MIRA Carregal do Sal ParanhosParanhos S E R R A D A E S T R E L A Estrela Estrela
Carregal do Sal
Curia Curia Seia Seia
Mira Mira MortáguaMortágua Rio Mondego Rio Mondego ValhelhasValhelhas
OLIVEIRA DO
MealhadaMealhada LUSO LUSO OLIVEIRA DO
HOSPITALSPITAL Manteigas Manteigas Alfaiates Alfaiates
HO
BELMONTE
Cantanhede
Cantanhede BELMONTE
SABUGAL
Tábua Tábua SABUGAL
BUÇACOBUÇACO
Tocha Tocha Portunhos Portunhos Alto da Torre Alto da Torre SORTELHATELHA
SOR
Covilhã Covilhã
Serra da Malcata
PenacovaPenacova Vide Vide 1993m 1993m Caria Caria Serra da Malcata
Rio Alva Rio Alva
MONTEMOR-MONTEMOR- PIÓDÃOPIÓDÃO Tortozendo Tortozendo
Capinha Capinha
CO
FIGUEIRA O-VELHOO-VELHO COIMBRAIMBRA ARGANIL Valverde Valverde
FIGUEIRA
ARGANIL
DA FOZDA FOZ Rio Zêzere Rio Zêzere del Fresnodel Fresno
Serra do Açor
C O I M B R AB R A Góis Góis Serra do Açor Fundão Fundão Fatela Fatela
C O I M
PENAMACOR
Condeixa-Condeixa- Silvares Silvares PENAMACOR
a-Nova a-Nova LOUSÃLOUSÃ
Serra da Gardunha
Lavos Lavos Bogas deBogas de
Soure Soure CONÍMBRIGACONÍMBRIGA Baixo Baixo Serra da Gardunha Orca Orca Medelim Medelim
MON
PENELA PENELA Álvares Álvares MONSANTOSANTO
Rabaçal Rabaçal
AlmacedaAlmaceda IDANHA-A-IDANHA-A-
Guia Guia Serra do Muradal Tinalhas Tinalhas VELHAVELHA
Barragem Barragem Idanha-a-Nova
Serra do Muradal
Idanha-a-Nova
do Cabril do Cabril AlcafozesAlcafozes
Monte Redondo PedrógãoPedrógão Oleiros Oleiros Rio Erges Rio Erges
Monte Redondo
C A S T E L O B R A
Serra de Alvélos
ESTREMADURAESTREMADURA Pequeno Pequeno C A S T E L O B R A N C O N C O
LEIRIALEIRIA AND RIBATEJOAND RIBATEJO Troviscal Troviscal Serra de Alvélos CASTELOCASTELO la Mayor la Mayor
Zarza
Zarza
p166 p166 Benquerenças BRANCOBRANCO Zebreira Zebreira
Benquerenças
Sertã Sertã
Rio Ocresa
Leiria Leiria Freixianda Freixianda Proença- Proença- Rio Ocresa Rosmaninhal
Rosmaninhal
Beira B aixa
Beira B aixa Malpica Malpica AlcántaraAlcántara
Cardosos Cardosos Ribeira de Isna a-Nova a-Nova Ribeira do Aravil Ribeira do Aravil
Ribeira de Isna
do Tejo do Tejo
Batalha Batalha Ferreira Ferreira Vila de Rei Vila de Rei Vila VelhaVila Velha Rio Tejo Rio Tejo
do Ródãodo Ródão
Ourém Ourém do Zêzeredo Zêzere
Cedillo Cedillo Salor Salor Brozas Brozas
Tomar Tomar SP AINSP AIN
Mação Mação
S ANT ARÉMS ANT ARÉM Sardoal Sardoal ALENTEJOALENTEJO
p292 p292
20
Constância Constância 0 kilometres0 kilometres 20 N N
P O R T A L
Alcanena Alcanena AbrantesAbrantes Ortiga Ortiga P O R T A L E G R E E G R E
0 miles 0 miles 20 20
192-193_EW_Portugal.indd 193 20/09/2018 17:20

EXPERIENCE The Beiras








Brightly coloured
moliceiros on the
Canal Central

1 2
AVEIRO Across the
Canal Central
South of the Canal Central and
! D3 £ Avenida Dr Lourenço Peixinho @ Avenida Dr
Lourenço Peixinho 4 Forte de Barra–São Jacinto: daily the bustling Praça General
n Rua João Mendonça 8; 234 420 760 Humberto Delgado are the
principal historic buildings of
This little city, once a great sea port, has a long history, Aveiro. The Misericórdia church
with its salt pans featuring in a will in AD 959. By the 16th in the Praça da República
century, Aveiro was a considerable town, rich from salt dates from the 16th century,
and the bacalhoeiros fishing for cod off Newfoundland. its façade of azulejos framing
When storms silted up the harbour in 1575 this wealth a splendid Mannerist portal. In
the same square stands the
vanished, and the town languished beside its lagoon, stately 18th­century Paços do
the ria. Only in the 19th century did Aveiro regain its Concelho, or town hall, with its
prosperity and it is now ringed with industry. distinctive Tuscan­style pillars.
Nearby is Aveiro’s modest
1 auctioned to local restaurants. 15th­century cathedral of São
Domingos. The figures of the
Although it was remodelled in
Old Quarter the early 21st century, there Three Graces over the door on
has been a bustling market the Baroque façade were
Tucked in between the Canal hall on this site since the late added in 1719. A short walk
das Pirâmides, which was 18th century, making it a
named after the salt pyramids historic part of local life.
that once lined this waterway, Skirting the Canal Central, INSIDER TIP
and the Canal de São Roque, along Rua João de Mendonça, Fish Food
the old quarter of the city are Art Nouveau mansions The upper floor of the
was once home to salt ware­ and some of the many Mercado do Peixe is now
houses. Although no longer pastelarias selling Aveiro’s a buzzing restaurant,
lined with industry, this area speciality: ovos moles. Literally populated by students
is still home to the neat, white­ “soft eggs”, these are a rich and locals. Of course,
washed houses of Aveiro’s confection of sweetened egg the menu uses fresh
fishermen. In the early yolk in candied casings fish from the market
morning, the focus of activity shaped like fish or barrels. As below. While you eat,
is the Mercado do Peixe at so often in Portugal, the look out of the huge
the end of the Canal das original recipe is credited to windows on to the
Pirâmides, where the fish nuns. Ovos moles are sold by Canal de São Roque.
from the night’s catch is weight or in little barrels.
194



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Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224

Must See

Decorated buildings, one
an Art Nouveau marvel,
in the Old Quarter


south lies the Igreja das
Carmelitas, its nave and
chancel decorated with
paintings of the life of the
Carmelite reformer, St Teresa.


3 "
Museu de Aveiro
⌂ Ave Santa Joana Princesa
§ 234 423 297 # 10am–
12:30pm, 1:30–6pm Tue– Denied access to the sea, dunes and woods as well
Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, Easter
Sun, 25 Dec Aveiro declined, its population as the lagoon, and is home
cut down by the fever bred in to a large and varied bird
The former Mosteiro de Jesus the stagnant waters. It was population, including pintails
is full of mementoes of Santa not until 1808 that the barra and gos hawks. Of the boats
Joana, who died here in 1490. nova was created, linking seen here, the most elegant
The daughter of Afonso V, Aveiro once more to the sea. is the moliceiro. Despite the
Joana retreated to the convent The lagoon that remains bright, often humorous
in 1472 and spent the rest of covers some 65 sq km decoration on its high, curving
her life here. She was beatified (25 sq miles), and is nearly prow, this is a working boat,
in 1693 and her ornamental 50 km (30 miles) long, from harvesting moliço (seaweed)
Baroque marble tomb is in the Furadouro south past Aveiro’s for fertilizer. Chemical
lower choir. The 18th-century salt pans and the Reserva fertilizers have drastically
paintings in the chapel show Natural das Dunas de São cut demand for moliço, but a
scenes of her life. This was Jacinto (Nature Reserve of São few of the stately craft survive;
once the needlework room Jacinto) to Costa Nova. The the Festa da Ria in July is a
where Santa Joana died. reserve includes beaches, chance to see them in full sail.
Among the Portuguese
primitive paintings is a 15th-
century full-face portrait of Aveiro Lagoon
the princess in court dress.
Other interesting things to Canal de São Roque Ria de Aveiro
see in this museum include São Jacinto
the superb gilded chancel Gafanha
(1725–9), the 15th-century PARQUE DOS REMADORES OLIMPICOS RUA DOM da Nazaré
Ponte dos
cloisters and the refectory, Botirões JORGE LENCASTRE Praia da Aveiro
Barra
which is decorated in local OLD
Coimbra tiles. Between the CAIS DOS BOITRÕES QUARTER 0 kilometres 5
refectory and chapterhouse RUA DOS ARRAIS 0 kilometres 5
RUA ABEL RIBEIRO
lies the Gothic tomb of an CAIS DAS FALCOEIRAS CAIS DOS MERCANTÉIS R. DAS SALINEIRAS
R. SARGENTO
armoured knight, Dom João R. DAS VELAS CLEMENTE DE MORAIS
de Albuquerque. LARGO DO Mercado Railway Station
(1 km)
RUA DE JOÃO ROSSIO PRAÇA DO do Peixe R. D. CARRANCHO R. JOSÉ ESTÉVÃO AV ENI DA D O UTOR
AFONSO DE
AVEIRO
PEIXE
4 Jardim do Rossio LOUR EN ÇO P EI XI N HO
RUA DO DOUTOR
B. DE MAGALHÃES
Ria de Aveiro Canal das Pirâmides Canal Central PRAÇA GENERAL RUA DE HOMEM CRISTO
R. JOÃO MENDONÇA
R U A D O CLUBE DOS G A LI TOS DELGADO FORUM
HUMBERTO
Old maritime charts do not Misericórdia AVEIRO
show a lagoon here, but in PRAÇA DA
REPÚBLICA
1575 a terrible storm raised a R. DE J. RABUMBA Paços do C AÇADORES 10
sand bar that blocked the Jardim do R. DA LIBERDADE R . BELÉM DO PARÁ Catedral de
R . BATALHÃO DE
Concelho
harbour to create the lagoon. Alboi São Domingos
0 metres 200 N
RUA DE COIMBRA
Museu de
0 yards 200 Aveiro
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EXPERIENCE The Beiras








A boat on the Mondego
river passing the
town of Coimbra

2 celebration in stone of the
triumph over the Moors in
COIMBRA 1064. Sancho I was crowned
here in 1185, soon after the
cathedral was completed.
Inside, square piers lead
! E3 £ Coimbra A, Av Emídio Navarro; Coimbra B, N of city,
on N11 @ Av Fernão de Magalhães n Praça da República the eye up the nave to the
(239 857 186); Universidade de Coimbra (239 242 744); flamboyant retable over
Largo da Portagem (239 488 120) the altar. The work of Flemish
wood carvers in about 1502,
The birthplace of six kings and the seat of Portugal’s this depicts the birth of 200 metres
oldest university, Coimbra arouses an affection in the Christ, the Assumption and (220 yards) da Graça R U A N I C O L A U C H A N T E R E N N E
Igreja
MONTES
Portuguese shared by no other city. Afonso Henriques, many saints. A 16th-century LARGO DO R. ROSA FALCÃO R U A G U E R R A J U N Q U E I R O
CLAROS
the first king of Portugal, moved his capital here in 1139, altarpiece in the south ARNADO Igreja do Carmo
R U A D O U T O R A N T Ó N I O J O S É D E A L M E I D A
an honour it retained until 1256. For the Portuguese, BAIXA R UA DA SOF I A CONCHADA
Coimbra holds the roots of nationhood and, for COIMBRA FADO RUA DO CARMO RU A DE M O N TA R ROIO
visitors, a wealth of fascinating historic associations. RUA DIREITA RUA OLÍMPIO NICOLAU RUI FERNANDES RUA ANTERO DE QUENTAL
While Lisbon’s music is A V E N I D A C I D A D E A E M I N I U M AV E N ID A F E R N Ã OLAIO Santa Cruz Jardim da Mercado RUA ANTERO DE QUENTAL
RUA
melancholy and sombre, JOÃO CABREIRA PRACA 8 Manga RUA DA FONTE NOVA
R. PEDRO
Silêncio (which has an DE MAIO AVENIDA SÁ DA BA NDE I R A
1 " admission fee) and the choir Coimbra’s is boisterous AV. CENTRAL Sé Nova
RUA JOÃ O
LARGO DAS
Santa Cruz stalls, carved in 1518 with a and romantic. Sung R. DAS PA DEIRAS RUA VISCONDE DA LUZ RUA DO CORPO DE DEUS JACINTO RUA PADRE ANTÓ N IO V I E I R A Teatro
AVENIDA SÁ DA BA NDE I R A
OLARIAS
by male students or
frieze about exploration. R. DOS OLEIROS O D E M A G A L H Ã E S Torre de Anto Museu Nacional R U A D O S PRAÇA
⌂ Praça 8 de Maio § 239 alumni of Coimbra’s R. A. VE I G A Machado de Castro Académico REPÚBLICA
DA
822 941 # 9am–5pm Mon– Portugal’s first two kings, university, fado in PRACA DO LARGO R. BO R GES SÉ NOVA Gil Vicente
COMERCIO
CARNE I RO
DA SÉ
Fri, 9am–noon, 2–5pm Sat, Afonso Henriques and Sancho I, this city ranges from Railway VELHA LARGO DE E S T U D O S RUA DE OLIVEIRA
MATOS
Station
were reinterred here in 1520.
4–5:30pm Sun serenades to drinking RUA D A SOTA Sé Velha ALTA RUA VENÂNCIO RODRIGUES
songs. Remember to R. FERREIRA BORGES RUA SÃO JOÃO D.DINIS
LARGO
Founded by the canons of cough rather than RUA CASTRO
St Augustine in 1131, the church clap the singers. Mon d ego PORTAGEM Palacio Coimbra MATOSO
LARGO DA
dos Grilos
ARCOS
and monastery of Santa Cruz 2 " AV E N I D A E M Í D I O N A V A R R O University São Sebastião JARDIM
Aqueduto de
DO
PONTE DE
are rich in examples of the Sé Velha AV E NIDA DE CONIMBRIGA COUR A Ç A D E L ISB OA
city’s early-16th-century ⌂ Largo da Sé Velha § 239 SANTA CLARA
school of sculpture. Carvings 825 273 # 10am–5:30pm
Jardim
by Nicolau Chanterène and Mon–Fri, 10am–6:30pm Sat, ESTRADA DA GUARDA INGLESA Botânico
Jean de Rouen adorn the 11am–5pm Sun & public hols Estádio A V . D R J Ú L I O H E N R I Q U E S
church’s Portal da Majestade, Universitário Almedina
Parque
designed by Diogo de Castilho The fortress-style Old Manuel
in 1523. The chapterhouse by Cathedral is widely regarded Santa Clara- DE SANTA AVENIDA JOÃO DAS REGAS Braga R U A D O B R A S I L
ROSSIO
Diogo Boitac is Manueline in as the finest Romanesque a-Nova CLARA 0 metres 300 N
style, as are the Claustro do building in Portugal, a AV. INÊS DE CASTRO
Portugal dos Santa Clara- 0 yards 300
196 Pequenitos a-Velha
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Must See

Admiring a sculpture in
the Museu Nacional
Machado de Castro


transept is also highly
decorated, as is the Manueline
font, thought to be by Diogo
Pires the Younger. In contrast
is the quiet restraint of the
cloister, built in 1218.
The tomb of the city’s first
Christian governor, Sisinando
(a Muslim convert who died in
1091), lies in the chapterhouse.
palace are the setting for a the 12th to 20th centuries,
display of some of Portugal’s including the Assumption of
3 " finest sculpture. The museum the Virgin by the Master of
Museu Nacional is named after master sculp- Sardoal. Look for Queen
Machado de Castro tor Joaquim Machado de Leonor’s coat of arms, which
Castro (1731–1822). she had painted into the work.
⌂ Largo Dr José Rodrigues Among the medieval pieces An intriguing feature of the
# 10am–6pm Wed–Sun,
2–6pm Tue ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, on display here is an endearing museum is the Criptoportico
1 May, 25 Dec ∑ museu stone knight holding a mace de Aeminium, a maze of
machadocastro.pt dating from the 14th century. underground passages
Also in the collection, along holding a collection of Roman
The elegant 16th-century with furnishings and vest- sculpture and stelae and
loggias of the former bishop’s ments, are paintings from Visigothic artifacts.

200 metres
(220 yards) Igreja R U A N I C O L A U C H A N T E R E N N E
da Graça MONTES
CLAROS
LARGO DO R. ROSA FALCÃO R U A G U E R R A J U N Q U E I R O
ARNADO
Igreja do Carmo
R U A D O U T O R A N T Ó N I O J O S É D E A L M E I D A
RUA DO CARMO RU A DE M O N TA R ROIO
BAIXA CONCHADA
R UA DA SOF I A
RUA OLÍMPIO NICOLAU RUI FERNANDES RUA ANTERO DE QUENTAL
Santa Cruz Jardim da Mercado RUA ANTERO DE QUENTAL
RUA DIREITA
JOÃO CABREIRA DE MAIO Manga RUA DA FONTE NOVA AVENIDA SÁ DA BA NDE I R A
RUA
OLAIO
PRACA 8
R. PEDRO
RUA DO CORPO DE DEUS
AV. CENTRAL RUA JOÃ O Sé Nova AVENIDA SÁ DA BA NDE I R A
AV E N ID A F E R N Ã
VISCONDE
DA LUZ
RUA
LARGO DAS
JACINTO
R. DAS PA DEIRAS Torre de Anto Museu Nacional RUA PADRE ANTÓ N IO V I E I R A Teatro PRAÇA
OLARIAS
DA
A V E N I D A C I D A D E A E M I N I U M
R. A. VE I G A Machado de Castro Académico REPÚBLICA
Gil Vicente
R U A D O S
PRACA DO LARGO R. BO R GES
R. DOS OLEIROS O D E M A G A L H Ã E S
Railway COMERCIO DA SÉ CARNE I RO SÉ NOVA
MATOS
Station VELHA LARGO DE E S T U D O S RUA DE OLIVEIRA
R. FERREIRA BORGES Sé Velha ALTA RUA SÃO JOÃO D.DINIS RUA VENÂNCIO RODRIGUES
LARGO
RUA D A SOTA
LARGO DA Palacio MATOSO
RUA CASTRO
Coimbra
PORTAGEM dos Grilos University São Sebastião ARCOS
Aqueduto de
DO
Mon d ego
PONTE DE COUR A Ç A D E L ISB OA
JARDIM
SANTA CLARA
AV E NIDA DE CONIMBRIGA
Jardim
Botânico
AV E N I D A E M Í D I O N A V A R R O
Estádio A V . D R J Ú L I O H E N R I Q U E S
Universitário Almedina
AVENIDA JOÃO DAS REGAS Parque
Manuel
ESTRADA DA GUARDA INGLESA
ROSSIO
Santa Clara- DE SANTA Braga R U A D O B R A S I L
a-Nova CLARA 0 metres 300 N
Portugal dos Santa Clara- 0 yards 300
Pequenitos a-Velha
AV. INÊS DE CASTRO
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4 "
Sé Nova
⌂ Largo da Sé Nova
§ 239 823 138 # 9:30am–
6pm Mon–Sat, 10am–
12:30pm Sun
Nova, or new, is a relative term,
EXPERIENCE The Beiras the Jesuits in 1598. Located a Paths leading up to an ornate stone
as this church was founded by
short walk from the university,
their adjacent Colégio das
Onze Mil Virgens is today part
of the sciences faculty. The
Jesuit Order was banned by
the Marquês de Pombal in
1759 but their church became
The university is still a centre
the episcopal seat in 1772. 5 fountain in the Jardim Botânico
Jesuit saints still look out for the study of flora.
from the façade. Jardim Botânico The entrance, near the
The interior, more spacious ⌂ Calçada Martim de 16th-century aqueduct of São
than the Sé Velha (p196), is Freitas § 239 855 215 Sebastião, leads into 20 ha
barrel-vaulted, with a dome # Apr–Sep: 9am–8pm daily; (50 acres) devoted to a
over the crossing. To the left Oct–Mar: 9am–5:30pm daily remarkable collection of some
of the entrance is a Manueline- 1,200 plants, including many
style octagonal font brought, These, Portugal’s largest rare and exotic species. The
with the choir stalls, from the botanical gardens, were gardens are used for research,
Sé Velha. The paintings above created in 1772 when the but are laid out as pleasure
the stalls are copies of Italian reforming Marquês de gardens, with greenhouses
masters. The altar piece in the Pombal (p45) introduced and a wild area overlooking
17th-century chancel, the study of natural history the Mondego river.
featuring more Jesuit saints, at the University of Coimbra.
is flanked by a pair of 18th-
century organs.
6 "
Santa Clara-a-Nova
⌂ Alto de Santa Clara
§ 239 441 674 # Apr–Sep:
10am–7pm daily (to 6pm
Oct–Mar)
The vast “new” convent of the
Poor Clares was built between
1649 and 1677 to house the
nuns from Santa Clara-a-Velha
(p199) on drier land uphill. The
building was designed by a
mathematics professor, João
Turriano, and although
intended as a convent, now
serves in part as a barracks
for the army.
In the richly Baroque
church, pride of place is given
to the silver tomb of Santa
Isabel, installed in 1696 and


A 17th-century gilt-and-
wood sculpture of a saint
on the Sé Nova’s altarpiece
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paid for by the people of India and East Timor, in
Coimbra. The saint’s original Southeast Asia, are all INSIDER TIP
tomb, a single stone, lies in represented here among Kayak the
the lower choir and poly­ their native vegetation. Mondego
chrome wooden panels in The park also includes a The Mondego river
the aisles tell the story of reconstruction of Coimbra offers some of the
her life. itself, complete with its famed country’s best
The convent’s large clois ter, university, but the real opportunities for
built by the Hungarian Carlos highlight is a magnificent kayaking. Follow the
Mardel, was contributed in replica of the Convento de 18-km- (11-mile-) long
1733 by João V, a generous Cristo in Tomar (p176). stetch from Penacova
benefactor who was well­ to Coimbra, which
known for his charity to nuns. passes through beau-
tiful scenery. The many
8 " river beaches en route
Santa Clara-a-Velha make for pleasant
7 "-= stopping-off points.
Portugal dos ⌂ Santa Clara § 239 801
Pequenitos 160 # 10am–7pm Tue–Sun
(to 6pm in winter) ¢ 1 Jan,
⌂ Santa Clara # Mar–May: 1 May, Easter, 25 Dec Almost from the day it was
built, Santa Clara suffered
10am–7pm daily; Jun–mid-
Sep: 9am–8pm daily; mid- Founded in the late 13th from flooding and it was
Sep–mid-Oct: 10am–7pm century, the first monastery finally abandoned in 1677.
daily; mid-Oct–Feb: 10am– on this site was dissolved in In 1696, Santa Isabel’s remains
were moved to the Convent of
1311. In 1314, Santa Isabel, the
5pm daily ∑ portugaldos
pequenitos.pt widow of King Dinis, who was Santa Clara­a­Nova, which sits
admired for her charity, had on higher ground.
At this world in miniature, you the convent of Santa Clara The original Gothic church,
can explore scaled­down rebuilt because she had a in silted ruins since the late
versions of Portugal’s finest palace nearby. She died in 17th century, has at last been
national buildings, whole 1336 in Estremoz (p306) restored. Beneath the mud
villages of typical regional but was buried here in an and water, the monastery
architecture, and pagodas and elaborate tomb, attesting was preserved in excellent
temples representing the far­ to her affinity with the condition and the site gives
flung reaches of the former monastery. Inês de Castro a fascinating insight into
Portuguese empire. Parts was also laid to rest here the everyday lives of the
of Africa, from Angola to 20 years later, but was re­ monastic community who
Mozambique, Brazil, Macau, entombed at Alcobaça (p170). once lived here.





















Exploring miniature
regional houses at
Portugal dos Pequenitos
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9 "'-
COIMBRA


UNIVERSITY


EXPERIENCE The Beiras station A # Summer: 9am–7:30pm daily;
! E3 ⌂ Paço das Escolas @ 103 from train
winter: 9am–1pm, 2–5pm daily ¢ 1 Jan,
1 May, 24, 25 & 31 Dec ∑ visit.uc.pt
A trip to Coimbra would not be complete
without a visit to the historic university,
which dominates the city. The complex is
home to graceful buildings, hallowed halls
and quirky traditions. Students outside
the Via Latina
In 1290, King Dinis founded a university in Lisbon, The Sala do Exame
which became one of the world’s oldest and most Privado is the private
illustrious institutions. In 1537, it was transferred examination hall.
to Coimbra and located in what used to be King
Afonso’s palace. Study was mostly of canon and
civil law, medicine and letters (grammar and
philosophy) until reforms by the Marquês de
Pombal in the 1770s broadened the curriculum.
Several 19th-century literary figures, including
Eça de Queirós, were alumni of Coimbra. Many
buildings were replaced after the 1940s, but the
halls around the Pátio das Escolas echo with 700
years of learning. It will come as no surprise that
the university is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

As well as works of art on religious
themes, the Museu de Arte Sacra
has vestments, chalices and
books of early sacred music.

Portrait of João V
(c 1730)







The 16th-
century portal
of Capela de
São Miguel, by
Marcos Pires,
is Manueline
in style.
Capela de
São Miguel

Biblioteca
Joanina
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