Must See
TOP ROOMS
5 TO VISIT
Sala dos Duques
Lining the ceiling of the
Room of the Dukes are
portraits of all the dukes
of Bragança by Domenico
Dupra (1689 –1770).
Kitchen
The Paço Ducal dominating the The vast kitchen gleams
whitewashed houses of Vila Viçosa with over 600 copper
pots and pans, some
large enough to bathe in.
Chapel
Despite later additions,
the chapel has retained
its coffered ceiling from
the early 16th century.
Armouries
A series of vaulted rooms,
displaying swords,
cross bows, halberds
and suits of armour.
The Library
Home to precious early
works collected by King
Manuel II while in exile.
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EXPERIENCE MORE
3 network of roads still winds pousada and the 15th-century
Igreja Matriz. Rua do Espírito
among the trim white villages,
Serra de São Mamede offering grand views. Santo leads past the former
From Portalegre, the road governor’s house (now a bank)
! F4 @ From Portalegre climbs for 15 km (9 miles) to with its 17th-century iron
EXPERIENCE Alentejo 245 307 445 1,025 m (3,363 ft). A minor fountain, up towards the castle.
n Rua Guilherme Gomes
the Pico de São Mamede at
balcony, and a Baroque
Fernandes 22, Portalegre;
road leads south to Alegrete,
Built by King Dinis in about
1299, the castle dominates
The diverse geology and
a fortified village crowned by
its ruined 14th-century castle.
capricious climate of this
the village. Its walls enclose
two cisterns and a keep. The
remote mountain range,
which could be on the
south and west towards the
Mediter ranean rather than the
Serra de São Mamede and
Atlantic Ocean, encourage a 4 castle offers spectacular views
fascinating range of flora and Marvão east to the Spanish frontier.
fauna. In 1989, 320 sq km (120 ! F4 £ @ n Largo da The Museu Municipal, in
sq miles) of the Serra were Silveirinha; 245 909 131 the former church of Santa
designated a Nature Park, as Maria, retains the main altar,
classified by the EUROPARC This serene medieval hamlet and has an exhibition of
Federation. Red deer, wild boar is dramatically set at 862 m traditional remedies and local
and the cat-like genet live (2,828 ft) on a spectacular archaeo logical finds from
among the sweet chestnut escarp ment facing Spain. Palaeolithic to Roman times.
trees and holm oaks, and Its 13th-century walls and
streams attract otters and 17th-century buttres ses Museu Municipal
amphibians, such as the Iberian blend seamlessly into the " ⌂ Largo de Santa Maria
midwife toad. Look out, granite of the mountains, § 245 909 132 # Tue–Sun
too, for griffon vultures and making it an impregnable
Bonelli’s eagles soaring over- strong hold. The Romans,
head, as well as bats from one who called the out crop
of Europe’s largest colonies. Herminius Minor, were INSIDER TIP
The Serra’s apparent followed by the Moors (the Take a Dip
emptiness is deceptive: name may have come from Head to the little village
megaliths suggest that it was Marvan, a Moorish leader) of Portagem, below
settled in prehistoric times, whom the Christians evicted Marvão, and cool off
and rock paintings survive in with difficulty only in 1166. in the Praia Fluvial
the Serra de Cavaleiros and The walls completely de Portagem, which
Serra de Louções. Below enclose the little collection is a shallow, but very
Marvão is the Roman town of of whitewashed refreshing river beach.
Ammaia, and the Roman houses, a
The castle at Marvão, set
impressively among
granite mountains
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STAY
Pousada de Santa
Maria
This cosy pousada
makes good use of three
former townhouses. Its
restaurant offers jaw-
dropping views.
! F4 ⌂ Rua 24 de
Janeiro 7, Marvão
∑ pousadas.pt
Fonte da Vila, a 16th-century stone ¡¡¡
fountain located in the Jewish Quarter
of Castelo de Vide Pousada Convento
Beja
A chance to stay in a
5 13thcentury synagogue former 13th-century
housing a small museum. The
convent, with a
Castelo de Vide town’s oldest chapel, dating restaurant, pool
from the same time, Salvador and tennis courts.
! F4 £ @ n Praça Dom
Pedro V; 245 908 227 do Mundo on the Estrada de ! E6 ⌂ Largo D Nuno
Circunvalação, has a much Álvares Pereira, Beja
Sprawled out on a lush green admired depiction of the Holy ∑ pousadas.pt
slope of the Serra de São Family’s flight into Egypt by an
Mamede, the pretty spa town un known 18thcentury artist. ¡¡¡
of Castelo de Vide, enjoyed by In the upper town, the tiny
the Romans, has worn well. It Nossa Senhora da Alegria Pousada de Santa
is fringed by modern devel offers a feast of 17thcentury Rainha Isabel
opment but the lower town, floral tiles. It stands within the Set inside Estremoz’s
around Praça Dom Pedro V, walls of the castle that gave historic castle, with
retains its Baroque church of the town its name. This was valuted ceilings and a
Santa Maria, the 18thcentury rebuilt in 1310 by King Dinis, pool in its lovely
town hall and pillory, and who negotiated here to marry gardens.
hand some mansions from Isabel of Aragon. Inside the F5 ⌂ Largo de Dom
the same era. In the Largo castle are two museums, the Dinis, Estremoz
Frederico Laranjo is one of Megalith Interpretation Centre ∑ pousadas.pt
several sources of the town’s and the Military Architecture ¡¡¡
cura tive waters: the Fonte da and History Museum.
Vila, a carved stone fountain
with a pillared canopy. Just
above is the mazelike 6
Judiaria, where small white In 1662, the town’s fortunes
houses sprout vivid pots of Crato changed as invading Spanish
geraniums. Its cobbled alleys ! F4 £ @ n Mosteiro de forces sacked and burned the
are lined with fine Gothic Santa Maria de Flor da town, which never recovered.
doorways and conceal a The Hospitallers’ castle
Rosa, inside the pousada;
245 997 341 remains, in ruins, and in Praça
do Município the 15thcentury
Sprawled out on Modest houses under outsize Varanda do GrãoPrior marks
a lush green slope chimneys give no hint of the entrance to what was the
of the Serra de São Crato’s past eminence. Part Grand Prior’s residence.
Rua de Santa Maria leads,
of a gift from Sancho II to the
Mamede, the pretty powerful crusading Order of via an avenue of orange trees,
spa town of Castelo Hospitallers, Crato was the to the Igreja Matriz, much
de Vide, enjoyed by Order’s head quarters by altered since its 13thcentury
the Romans, has 1350. Its prestige was such origins. In the chancel, 18th
century azulejos depict fishing,
that Manuel I and João III were
worn well. both married here. hunting and travelling scenes.
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Castelo de Alter do Chão
" ⌂ Largo Barreto Caldeira
Did You Know? # May–Sep: 10am–12:20pm,
3–7pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr:
9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm EAT
Most Lusitano horses,
Portugal’s national Tue–Sun A Cadeia
breed, are grey – but Coudelaria de Alter Quinhentista
Alter Real are brown. " ⌂ 3 km (2 miles) NW of dine in a former 16th-
It’s not often you can
EXPERIENCE Alentejo 7 Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 24 & 25 Dec century prison. This
town § 245 610 060 # Tue–
stylish conversion
serves Alentejan
specialities.
8
Alter do Chão
F5 ⌂ Rua Rainha
Elvas
! E4 @ n Palácio do
§ 268 323 400
Álamo; 245 610 004
! F5 £ @ n Praça da
¡¡¡
República; 268 622 236 Santa Isabel, Estremoz
The Romans founded Civitas
Abelterium in 204 BC, but Only 12 km (7 miles) from the Flor da Rosa
razed it under the Emperor Spanish border, Elvas feels
Hadrian after the inhabitants like a frontier town. The old This restaurant inside a
were accused of disloyalty. town’s fortifications are among former monastery has a
menu that favours
The town was re-estab lished the best preserved in Europe. regional cuisine.
in the 13th century. Within the walls, a few archi-
Dominating the town centre tectural features and many F4 ⌂ Rua do Mosteiro
is the five-towered Castelo of the street names are da Flor da Rosa 10, Crato
de Alter do Chão with a reminders that for 500 years ∑ pousadas.pt
Gothic portal built in 1359 the town was in Moorish hands. ¡¡¡
by Pedro I. The flower-filled Elvas was liberated from
market square, the Largo Doze the Moors in 1230, but for
Melhores de Alter, is at its feet. another 600 years its fate was
Alter is best known for the to swing between periodic
Coudelaria de Alter, which attacks from Spain. remod el ling over the years,
was founded in 1748 to breed Romano-Moorish in origin, notably in the late 15th
the Alter Real. King José I the Castelo de Elvas was century under João II. The
(1750–77) yearned for a quality rebuilt for Sancho II in king’s coat of arms, incorpor-
Portuguese-bred horse. He 1226. It underwent further ating a peli can, is seen above
imported a stock of Andalusian
mares, which were known for
their prowess in war, to breed
with local horses. From these
Spanish pure-breds came the
gracious and nimble Alter Real
(“real” means royal). The stud
prospered until the Napoleonic
Wars (1807–15), when stealing
and erratic breeding sent the
Alter into decline. By 1930, the
royal horse was nearly extinct,
but years of dedication have
ultimately revived this classic
breed. The stud is set around
attractive stables painted in
the royal livery of white and
ochre. Accommodation is
available here.
Spanning the Seda river
12 km (7 miles) west along the
N369 is the robust six-arched
Ponte de Vila Formosa. This Arches of the great
bridge carried the Roman road aqueduct that once
from Lisbon to Mérida in Spain. brought water to Elvas
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the entrance. Until the late
16th century the castle was
the resi dence of Elvas’s mayors.
Until 1882, Nossa
Senhora da Assunção was
the cathedral of Elvas. Built
in the early 16th century, its
architect was Francisco de
Arruda, who also designed the
town’s impressive aqueduct.
His Manueline south portal FORTIFICATIONS OF ELVAS
survives, but much of the Using the principles of the French military architect, the
church has been modified. Marquis de Vauban, a series of pentagonal bastions and
The azulejos in the nave date freestanding angled ravelins form a multifaceted star,
from the early 17th century. protecting the walls from every angle. What survives
The engaging Museu dates mostly from the 17th century, when the defences
Municipal de Fotografia João held off Spanish troops in the War of Restoration. Two
Carpinteiro is divided into surviving satellite forts indicate the strategic importance
the History of Photography of Elvas: to the southeast lies the military fort and museum
Room, with numerous black- of Forte de Santa Luzia (1641–87), and 2 km (1 mile) north is
and-white images documen- the carefully restored 18th-century Forte de Graça.
ting life in the region, and the
Collector’s Room, featuring rare
and valuable vintage cameras has fine marble columns and Museu Municipal de
and photographic equipment. spectacular azulejos added in Fotografia João
The Museu de Arte the 17th century. These line Carpinteiro
Contemporãnea de Elvas, the the walls and reach up into the " ⌂ Largo Luís de Camões
only national museum display- cupola. Just behind the church § 268 636 470 # 10am–1pm,
ing exclusively contempo rary is the archway of the Arab 3–5pm Tue–Sun ¢ Easter
Portuguese art, occupies a Porta da Alcáçova, a vestige of Sun, 1 May, 25 Dec
former hospi tal. The collection Elvas’s Moorish fortifications.
includes works by artists such Museu de Arte
as Adriana Molder, André Castelo de Elvas Contemporânea de Elvas
Gomes and Joana Vasconcelos. " ⌂ Parada do Castelo " ⌂ Rua da Cadeia § 268
The plain exterior belies § 268 626 403 # 9:30am– 637 150 # Apr–Sep: 2–6pm
the wealth within the walls 1pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun Tue, 11am–6pm Wed–Sun;
of Nossa Senhora dos Afitos. ¢ 1 & 14 Jan, Easter Sun, Oct–Mar: 1–5pm Tue, 10am–
This little 16th-century church 1 May, 25 Dec 5pm Wed–Sun
304-305_EW_Portugal.indd 305 20/09/2018 10:42
EXPERIENCE Alentejo
Festival decorations
in the streets of
Campo Maior
9 10 palace complex, built for Dona
Isabel, is now a pousada. The
Campo Maior Estremoz saintly Isabel, wife of King
Dinis, died here in 1336 and
! F5 @ n Largo do Barata; ! F5 @ n Rossio Marquês the Capela da Rainha Santa
268 680 319 de Pombal; 268 339 227
dedicated to her is lined with
According to legend, this A key stronghold in the War azulejos recording her life.
peaceful town got its name of Restoration and then in Today the bustling weekly
when three peasant families the War of the Two Brothers, market in the Rossio, the main
settled in the campo maior, Estremoz looks out from its square in the lower town, is
the “bigger field”. King Dinis hilltop over groves of gnarled a reflection of local farming
fortified the town in 1310 and olive trees. life. Across the square are the
the monumental Porta da Vila The medieval upper town, re mains of King Dinis’s once
was added in 1646. set within stout ramparts, is fine palace and the town’s
In 1732, a gunpowder dominated by a 13thcentury Museu Municipal. The
maga zine, ignited by light marble keep, rising to 27 m museum is over two floors
ning, destroyed the citadel and (89 ft). This is the Torre das and displays such things
killed 1,500 people. It seems Três Coroas, the Tower of the as archaeological finds,
likely that after a period, the Three Crowns, recalling the restored living rooms and
victims provided the material kings (Sancho II, Afonso III and a parade of bonecos, the
for the morbid Capela dos Dinis) in whose reigns it was charming pottery figurines
Ossos, entirely faced in human built. The adjoining castle and for which Estremoz is famous.
bones. Dated 1766, it bears an
inscrip tion on mortality spelt
out in collar bones. ALENTEJO’S WHITE GOLD
The Museu do Café charts
the history of coffee with Portugal is the second-largest
exhibits such as rare antique exporter of marble, and even
grinders. A barista shows Italy, the biggest producer, buys
visitors how to make different its quality stone. Around 90 per
kinds of coffees. cent – over 500,000 tonnes a year –
is quarried around Estremoz. The
Capela dos Ossos marble from Estremoz and nearby
⌂ Largo Dr Regala 6 § 268 Borba and Vila Viçosa is white or
686 168 # Daily (if closed, pink, while the quarries at Viana
speak to priest) do Alentejo yield green stone.
Marble has been used for con-
Museu do Café struction since Roman times and
⌂ Delta Coffee, Herdade das in towns such as Évora (p296) and
Vila Viçosa (p300), palaces and
Argamassas § 268 009 630 humble doorsteps alike gleam with
# 9am–1pm, 2:30–6:30pm the stone known as “white gold”.
Mon–Fri; 10am–1pm, 3–6pm
Sat ¢ Public hols
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Capela da Rainha Santa 13
⌂ Largo Dom Dinis
(access via adjacent 1497 Évoramonte
Design Gallery) # Ask at ! E5 @ n Rua Santa Maria;
the Igreja de Santa Maria, Manuel I welcomed 268 959 227
on Largo Dom Dinis Vasco da Gama at
Estremoz castle, The village is entered through
Museu Municipal de shortly before his a grand portal in the walls.
Estremoz Professor voyage to India. Above the doorway of No 41,
Joaquim Vermelho along Évoramonte’s single
" ⌂ Largo Dom Dinis street, is a historic plaque. It
§ 268 339 219 # 9am– records that here, on 26 May
12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun bowls painted with humorous 1834, Dom Miguel ceded the
¢ Public hols folk-art motifs are sold from throne, ending the conflict
the tiny white houses leading with his older brother (p46).
up to the ruins of the castle The eye-catching Castelo
11 founded by King Dinis. de Évoramonte, its walls
bound by bold stone “ropes”,
The Convento de São Paulo
Alandroal in the Serra de Ossa, 10 km largely replaced an earlier
(6 miles) north of Redondo, castle that fell in an earthquake
! F5 @ n Praça da was built in 1376; Catherine in 1531. The 16th-century
República; 268 440 045
of Bragança stayed here on walls have been res tored
Surrounded by groves of cork her return home in 1692 after and an exhibition explains
oaks, the low-lying town of the death of her husband, the castle’s history.
Alandroal, wrapped tidily King Charles II of England.
around its castle ruins, was It has now been converted Castelo de Évoramonte
built by the Knights of Avis, into a luxury hotel, but retains " # 10am–1pm, 2–5pm
who settled here from 1220. its wonderful 16th- to 18th- Tue–Sun ¢ Last weekend
Little remains inside the castle, century azulejos. of month
but a sur viving inscription
shows it was completed in
1298. The Igreja Matriz with-
in its walls dates from the
16th century. The Misericórdia
church near the castle walls
contains beauti ful azulejos
reputed to be the work of
Policarpo de Oliveira
Bernardes (1695–1778).
Terena, 10 km (6 miles)
south of Alandroal, is well
known for its pottery. The
14th-century sanctuary of
Nossa Senhora de Boa Nova
has frescoes covering its walls
and ceiling; dating from 1706,
these depict saints and Portu-
guese kings. For access ask at
the house opposite the church.
12
Redondo
! F5 @ n Praça da
República; 266 909 100
As with much of the Alentejo,
Redondo is known for its
wines; however, this medieval
town is also famous for its Looking down on the
pottery. Roman-style water medieval walled village
jugs, casserole dishes and of Évoramonte
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DRINK
Rota dos Vinhos
do Alentejo
EXPERIENCE Alentejo In Évora, you can pick up
The Alentejo has a
reputation for
producing some of the
best wines in Portugal.
details of the region’s
wineries, or sample
some of the wines in
this tasting room.
! E5 ⌂ Praça Joaquim
António de Aguiar
20–21, Évora
∑vinhosdoalentejo.pt
Esporão
This vineyard dates
back to the 13th
century. The 700
hectares of vineyards
are home to over
40 grape varieties.
! F5 ⌂Apartado 31,
Reguengos de Monsaraz
∑ esporao.com
L’And Vineyards
A wine resort that
14 Montemor-o-Novo’s offers wine courses and
ruined castle, watching
Montemor -o-Novo over the town below has its own Michelin-
starred restaurant
! E5 @ n Largo Calouste ! E5 ⌂ Herdade das
Gulbenkian; 266 A former convent in the upper Valadas, Estrada
898 103
town now houses the Museu Nacional 4, Montemor-
Montemor was fortified by de Arqueologia, displaying o-Novo ∑ l-and.com
the Romans and then by local archaeological finds and
the Moors – the Arab warrior antique farming tools.
Al-Mansur is remembered in
the name of the Almançor Museu de Arqueologia
river. The town, regained from " ⌂ Convento de São with Spain. Now a pretty
the Moors in the reign of Domingos, Largo Professor backwater, it has known more
Sancho I, was awarded its first Dr Banha de Andrade § 266 turbulent times. Regained from
charter in 1203. The castle, re - 890 235 # 10am–1pm, the Moors in 1167 by the
built in the late 13th century, 3–5pm Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols intrepid adventurer Geraldo
is now a ruin crowning the hill. Sem-Pavor (the Fearless), the
Montemor’s 17th-century town was handed over to the
Igreja Matriz stands in Largo 15 militant Knights Templar. It
São João de Deus, named continued to suffer from
after the saint who was born Monsaraz Spanish attack, but in 1381
nearby in 1495. The Order of ! F5 @ n Rua Direita; assault came from an
Brothers Hospitallers that 927 997 316 unexpected quarter. Troops
St John of God founded of the Earl of Cambridge,
evolved from his care for the The tiny medieval walled town Portugal’s ally, were enraged
sick. He notably looked after of Monsaraz perches above the by lack of pay and the
found lings and prisoners. Guadiana river on the frontier annulment of the earl’s
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betrothal to Fernando I’s castle seems overwhelmed by
daughter, and unleashed their GREAT VIEW the town walls and looming
wrath on Monsaraz. Castle Keep 16thcentury Igreja do
Principal access to the town Climb to the top of the Salvador. Typically, houses in
is through the massive Porta keep of Monsaraz’s Arraiolos are low and white,
da Vila. Rua Direita, the main castle for glorious views and are painted with a blue
street, leads up to the castle. of olive groves in one trim to ward off the devil.
Built by Afonso III and Dinis in direction and the The principal sight, however,
the 13th century as part of the stunning, sparkling is of women stitching their
border defences, it was rein waters of the Barragem bright wool rugs in shadowy
forced in the 17th century. The de Alqueva in the other. rooms behind the main street.
keep commands glorious views Carpets have been woven in
and at its foot is the garrison Arraiolos since the 13th century
courtyard, which today serves Near Monsaraz are a number and decorate countless manor
on occasion as a bullring. of striking megaliths. The houses and palaces through
The 16thcentury Igreja spec tacular Menhir of Outeiro, out Portugal. The craft may
Matriz in Rua Direita is worth standing 5.6 m (18 ft) tall, and have begun with the Moors,
visiting for its tall gilded altars the strangely inscribed Menhir but floral designs of the
and painted pillars. The 17th of Belhôa are both sign posted 18th century are thought to
and 18thcentury houses along in Telheiro, just to the north be the finest. As well as
here display coats of arms. In of Monsaraz. browsing the town’s carpet
the Gothic Paços da Audiência, shops, you can visit the Centro
now the Museu de Arte Sacra, Museu de Arte Sacra Interpre tativo do Tapete to
is a collection of vestments, " ⌂ Largo Dom Nuno discover more about this craft.
religious books and sculpture. Álvares Pereira § 266 508
Its earlier role as a law court is 040 # Tue–Sun Centro Interpretativo
reflected in an unusual secular do Tapete
fresco: O Bom e o Mau Juiz (The ⌂ Praça do Município 19
Good and Bad Judge). 16 # 10am–1pm, 2–6pm Tue–
Surrounded by vineyards, Sun ∑ tapetedearraiolos.pt
Reguengos de Monsaraz, 16 km Arraiolos
(10 miles) west, lies at the heart ! E5 @ n Praça do
of one of the region’s demar Município; 266 490 254
cated wine areas. São Pedro
do Corval, 5 km (3 miles) east The foundation of Arraiolos Did You Know?
of Reguengos de Monsaraz, is is attributed either to Celts
one of Portugal’s greatest or perhaps to local tribes in The design of Arraiolos
centres for pottery. about 300 BC. Its 14thcentury rugs was inspired by
Persian carpets.
Embroidered wool
rugs hung up in the
streets of Arraiolos
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17 isolated corner, evidence of
pre-Roman habitation has
Serpa been uncovered.
On the border at Barrancos,
! F6 @ n Rua dos Cavalos 76 km (47 miles) northeast of
19; 284 544 727
Serpa, an incomprehensible
Serpa is a quiet agri cultural mix of Spanish and Portuguese
town known for its cheese. is spoken. A speciality pro-
Pleasing squares and streets
duced here is the dry-cured
EXPERIENCE Alentejo over looked by a Moorish castle, from the local black pigs.
of whitewashed houses are
barrancos ham, which is made
rebuilt in the late 13th century.
Watch Museum
Serpa’s stout walls are topped
by an arched aqueduct. Beside
⌂ Convento do Mosteirinho
# 2–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–
the monumental Porta de Beja
is a nora, or Arab water wheel.
Won from the Moors in 1232,
∑ museudorelogio.com
Serpa success fully resisted 12:30pm, 2–6pm Sat & Sun
foreign control until a brief
Spanish occupation in 1707. 18
The Watch Museum,
occupying 10 rooms of the Vidigueira
16th-century Convento do ! E6 @ n Edificio das
Mosteirinho, boasts a collec- Piscinas Municipias;
tion of more than 2,300 284 437 410
watches and clocks, all of
them mechanical and some Fine wines make Vidigueira The traditional Moita–
dating from the 17th century. a leading centre of wine Viana do Alentejo
The museum also has a small production in the Alentejo Horse Pilgrimage
garden and a bar. region. Less well known is the
Serpa is just 35 km fact that the explorer Vasco
(22 miles) from the Spanish da Gama was the count of
border. The Moors, and later Vidigueira (p114). His remains,
Spain, fought for control of now in the Mosteiro dos Did You Know?
the region, which was finally Jerónimos (p108), laid from
ceded to Portugal in 1295. 1539 to 1898 in the Convento Most of Portugal’s
Continued disputes have left do Carmo, now private strategic castles were
the legacy of a chain of watch- property. A modern statue of ordered to be built
towers and a peppering of the town’s most famous son by King Dinis
fortresses across these hills. stands in the flowery square (1279–1325).
One of the most remote, the named after him. The main
deserted fort at Noudar, was features of this little town are
built in 1346, but even in this a Misericórdia church dated
1620, and a clock tower from 19
Vasco da Gama’s time.
One of Portugal’s most Viana do Alentejo
notable Roman sites, São ! E6 @ n Praça da
Cucufate, named after a República; 266 930 012
later monastery, lies 4 km
(2.5 miles) west of Vidigueira. Viana do Alentejo’s castle,
The vaulting belonged to begun in 1313, was built to
a 4th-century villa, but exca- the design of King Dinis, the
vations have revealed the height of the outer wall exactly
baths of a 2nd-century house, calculated to protect soldiers
whose wine presses, reservoir from attacking lancers. The
and temple indicate a sump- unusual cylindrical towers
tuous Roman residence. show a Moorish influence and
Nestled against the slopes much of the later remodelling
of the Serro do Mendro, the dates from João II, who held a
Cortes de Cima winery is close cortes here in 1481–2.
The great historic by and can be visited for tours Mirroring the castle walls
walls and arched and wine tasting (www.vinho are the crenellations and
aqueduct at Serpa dosalentejo.pt). pinnacles of the adjacent
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STAY
16th-century Igreja Matriz. Salúquia, daughter of a Casa do Adro
The highly carved Manueline Moorish gover nor, is said to This charming family
entrance to this fortified have thrown herself from the home in the centre of
church leads into a majestic castle tower on learning that the old town has neatly
triple-naved interior. her lover had been killed. decorated guest rooms,
Ten minutes’ walk east of From this tragedy, the town some with terraces or
the town stands the pil grimage acquired its name – Moura, balconies. The owner
church of Nossa Senhora de the Moorish girl. The town’s plies her guests with
Aires, rebuilt in the 1700s. The old Moorish quarter is a tangle homemade cakes
chancel’s golden canopy con- of narrow streets. and juices.
trasts with pilgrims’ humble Even after the Reconquest
ex votos. Every April, hundreds in the 12th century, Moura’s ! D6 ⌂ Rua Diário de
of people participate in the frontier position left it open Notícias 10, Vila Nova
de Milfontes
Moita–Viana do Alentejo Horse to attack. A siege in 1657, ∑ casadoadro.com.pt
Pilgrimage. Originally of a reli- during the War of Restoration,
gious nature, the event today levelled much of it. The 13th- ¡¡¡
has become more of a festival. century castle survived, only
The Moorish-style castle at to be blown up by the Spanish Casa da Muralha
Alvito, 10 km (6 miles) south of in 1707 – just a skeletal keep Right by the town
Viana, was built in 1482; it is and wall remain. walls of historic Serpa,
now a pousada. The Lagar de Varas do this wonderfully
Fojo, a former 19th-century traditional guesthouse
olive press, is now home to has its own pretty
20 a small museum. On display courtyard garden.
is a number of traditional
Moura wooden and stone-wheel ! F6 ⌂ Rua das Portas
de Beja 43, Serpa
presses, some dating from
! F6 @ n Inside the castle; ∑ www.casa
285 251 375 the 14th century. muralha.net
Legend mingles with history Lagar de Varas do Fojo ¡¡¡
in this quiet town nestled ⌂ Rua de São João de Deus
among oak and olive trees. § 285 253 978 # Tue–Sun
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rotavicentina.com). The main historic and social importance.
square is enhanced by elegant It is also a major centre for
18th-century mansions. the production of wines and
The Museu Municipal still the harvesting of olives and
retains some cells from its cork, which are grown on the
days as a Salazarist prison. Bejan plains.
Exhibits include Roman finds The town became a regional
from nearby Miróbriga. capital under Julius Caesar,
who called it Pax Julia after
On a hill just to the east
EXPERIENCE Alentejo the site of the Roman city Lusitanians (p42). The Praça
of Santiago do Cacém lies
the peace made here with the
of Miróbriga. Excavations
da República marks the site of
the Roman forum. The Moors
have uncovered a forum,
arrived in AD 711, giving the
two temples, thermal baths
town its present name and a
and a circus that had seating
Stone cross in front of
were forced out in 1162.
the Igreja Matriz at
Museu Municipal
Beja has been the scene of
Santiago do Cacém for 25,000 spectators. lively, poetic culture until they
⌂ Largo do Município struggles against oppressive
§ 269 827 375 # 10am– regimes. In 1808, occupying
21 noon, 2–4:30pm Tue–Fri, French troops massacred
inhabi tants and sacked the
noon–6pm Sat ¢ Public hols
Santiago do Cacém city, and in 1962, during the
Miróbriga
! D6 @ n Parque da " ⌂ Signposted off N121
Quinta do Chafariz; 269
826 696 § 269 818 460 # 9am– HIDDEN GEM
12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun Lagoa de
Santiago do Cacém’s Moorish ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec Santo André
castle was rebuilt in 1157 by the The warm shallow
Templars (p176). Its walls, which waters of the Lagoa
enclose the cemetery of the 22 de Santo André, 15 km
adjacent 13th-century Igreja (9 miles) northwest of
Matriz, afford great views of Beja Santiago do Cacém,
the Serra de Grândola. The ! E6 £ @ n Castle; offer a safe place for
church is the starting point 284 311 913 swimming compared
of the 350-km (217-mile) to the beaches on the
Rota Vicentina foot path to Capital of the Baixo (lower) Atlantic Ocean.
Cabo de São Vicente (www. Alentejo, Beja is a city of
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Salazar regime, General Medieval walls of Sines,
Delgado led an unsuccessful the town where Vasco da
uprising at Beja. Gama (inset) was born
Beja’s old town, an area of
narrow, often cobbled, streets,
stretches from the castle keep popular sandy beach, but
southeast to the 13th-century it is not always possible to
convent of São Francisco, now escape the haze of pollution.
a superb pousada. The former A land mark above the
Convento de Nossa Senhora beach is the modest medieval LOVE LETTERS OF
da Conceição (now a regional castle, restored in the 16th A HEARTSICK NUN
museum) is a remarkable century by King Manuel. It was Lettres Portugaises,
blend of architectural styles, here that Vasco da Gama, son published in French in
with a Gothic church portal, of the alcaide-mor, or mayor, is 1669, are celebrated for
Manueline windows and a reputed to have been born in their lyric beauty. They
dazzling Baroque chapel. 1469. A multimedia museum are the poignant letters
dedicated to the great navi- of a nun whose French
gator, the Casa Vasco da lover left her: she was
23 Gama, is housed in the castle Mariana Alcoforado,
keep. A statue of Vasco da
Sines Gama looks out over the bay. born in Beja in 1640; he
was the Comte de Saint-
Particulary appealing are Léger, later Marquis de
! D6 @ g n Inside the two sea-blue lagoons, the Chamilly, fighting in
castle; 269 632 237
Lagoa de Santo André and the Restoration Wars
The birthplace of Vasco da Lagoa de Melides nature with Spain. The true
Gama (p114) is now a major reserves, set in a long stretch authorship of the five
industrial port and tanker of sandy coast about 20 km letters may be in doubt,
terminal ringed with refinery (12 miles) north of Sines. but the story of the
pipelines. Once past this Camping within the reserves lovelorn nun endures –
heavy industrial zone, visitors is prohibited and the area is Matisse even painted
reach the old town with its patrolled by park rangers. her imaginary portrait.
Sentimental visitors to
Casa Vasco da Gama the Convento de Nossa
⌂ Castelo de Sines § 269 632 Senhora da Conceição
Chapter room of the Convento 237 # 10am–1pm, 2–5pm in Beja still sigh over
de Nossa Senhora da Tue–Sun (to 6pm in summer) “Mariana’s window”.
Conceição at Beja ¢ Public hols
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24
Vila Nova de Milfontes
! D6 @ n Rua António
Mantas; 283 996 599
One of the loveliest places on
Portugal’s west coast is found
where the Mira river meets
EXPERIENCE Alentejo of Vila Nova de Milfontes,
the sea. The popular resort
which is located on the sleepy
estuary, is delightfully low key
and unassuming, but offers
many places to stay. Its small
castle over looking the bay
once had an important role
de fending the coast from
pirates. In contrast to the quiet
river are the pretty beaches Did You Know?
with their crashing waves, a
major summer attrac tion, The area around
especially with surfers. Mértola is part of a
nature reserve – the
Parque Natural do
25 "
Mértola Vale do Guadiana.
EAT ! F6 @ n Rua da Igreja 31;
286 610 109 # Jul–Sep:
9:30am–12:30pm, 2–6pm with a five-nave layout,
Adega 25 de Abril daily; Sep–Jun: 9am–12:30, four horseshoe arches and
a mihrab or prayer niche.
Bare brickwork and 2–5:30pm daily Overlooking the town is a
giant terracotta urns Pretty whitewashed Mértola ruined hilltop castle, with its
create a rustic backdrop is of historical interest as this keep of 1292. The Alcácova
for typical Alentejan
fare, including giant small town is a vila museu, a do Castelo, the excavated
ruins of a Moorish village
museum site. It has various
pork steaks and
amazing homemade discoveries from differ ent eras and earlier Roman cistern
desserts. exhibited in núcleos, or areas are within the grounds.
where a lots of treasures from
! E6 ⌂ Rua da Moeda a particular period can be
23, Beja § 284 325 960 found. The tourist office has
¢ Sun D & Mon
details of each núcleo.
¡¡¡ Mértola dates back to the
Phoenicians, who created a
Marquês thriving inland port here, later
This classy marisqueira enjoyed by the Romans and
is the place to sample the Moors. Roman artifacts
the local fishermen’s can be seen at the Museu de
catch. It’s a lovely tiled Mértola. The post-Roman
restaurant, with period is on display in the
outdoor seats facing an Núcleo Visigótico and in an
attractive square. early Chris tian basilica whose
! D6 ⌂ Largo Marquês ruins adjoin the Roman road
de Pombal 10, Porto to Beja (p312). The influence
Covo ¢ Mon–Thu bestowed by several cen turies
∑ marques of Moorish dom ination is seen
cervejaria.com in the museum’s Núcleo
Islâmico, which houses one of
¡¡¡
the country’s best collec tions
of Portuguese Islamic art. The
Igreja Matriz below the Moorish
walls was formerly a mosque,
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Mértola’s castle high THE VERSATILITY
OF CORK
above the town and
Guadiana river Groves of evergreen
cork oak (Quercus suber)
provide the Alentejo
The copper mines at Minas with a thriving industry.
de São Domingos, 16 km Portugal, the world’s
(10 miles) to the east, were largest cork producer,
the main employer in the area has al most 7,000 sq km
from 1858 to 1965, when the (2,700 sq miles) under
mine was exhausted. An English cultivation and turns out
company ran the site under some 30 million corks a
the harshest con ditions, with day. In rural areas, this
miners’ families living in one versatile bark is fashioned
windowless room. The village’s into waterproof, heat
population is about 700, and proof food containers and
the ghost-town atmos phere is these decorated boxes
relieved only by a reservoir and are a tradi tional craft
surrounding lush greenery. of the Alentejo.
26 August at Herdade da Casa houses that are trimmed with
Branca, just outside the
blue. The coast to the north
Zambujeira do Mar village, draws music lovers and west of the village is made
from all over Europe. up of a series of beaches, linked
! D7 @ n Rua da Escola;
283 961 144 ∑ sudoeste. by a scenic road and clifftop
meo.pt paths. The coves soften the
impact of the Atlantic waves,
A narrow strip of sheltered 27 creating safe swimming areas.
land divides the Alentejo plains Porto Covo South from Porto Covo it’s
from the Atlantic. Here lies the ! D6 ⌂ 10 km (6 miles) a short drive along a coastal
solitary village of Zambujeira south of Sines track to the lovely beach at Ilha
do Mar, the whiteness of its do Pessegueiro. The beach is
gorgeous beach enhanced Small but bustling, Porto Covo protected by a little island of
by the dark back drop of high is one of the most attractive the same name, which has its
basalt cliffs. The annual resorts on the Alentejo coast. own ruined sea fort. Fishing
Festival Meo Sudoeste, usu ally Its tiny main square is ringed boats often offer trips around
held in the second week in by traditional whitewashed the island from Porto Covo.
Stunning sandy beach at
Ilha do Pessegueiro, near
Porto Covo
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A DRIVING TOUR
MEGALITHS
TOUR
EXPERIENCE Alentejo Length 80 km (50 miles) Stopping-off points Évora;
Grutas do Escoural Terrain Access roads to the sites are
often no more than tracks, and signposting can be erratic
Archaeologists date the pedras talhas, hewn stones, near Évora to
between 4000 and 2000 BC. Their symbolism remains mysterious.
Dolmens are thought to be where Neo lithic communities buried
Standing at 2.5 m (8 ft)
their dead, together with their possessions – more than 130 have
tall, the solitary stone
been found in the region. Tall phallic menhirs jutting from olive Menhir of Almendres
groves immediately suggest fertility rites, while cromlechs – carved is located away from
stones standing in regulated groups – probably had religious the cromlech, in an
significance. This tour includes examples of each; more can be found olive grove behind a
further east, near Monsaraz and Reguengos de Monsaraz, and the row of tall storage bins.
museum in Castelo de Vide (p303) has finds related to the area. Moguizo Moguizo
382 m
382 m
The oval Cromlech of Almendres, Cortiçadas Cortiçadas São Matias
made up of 95 elliptical stones, is São Matias
believed to have been a temple São Bento de Catris
São Bento de Catris
dedicated to a solar cult. The São Sebastião
São Sebastião
route to the cromlech is da Giesteira Alto de Alto de São São
da Giesteira
End your drive at the sign-posted from the N114. São Bento Mamede Mamede
368 m São Bento
Grutas do Escoural Moguizo 368 m
382 m
caves, which contain Nossa Senhora Malagueira Malagueira
Nossa Senhora
paintings that are de Guadalupe Évora Évora
15–20,000 years old. Menhir of de Guadalupe
Cortiçadas Almendres Menhir of São Matias Espadas Espadas Horta das Horta das
Nossa Senhora Almendres Figueiras Figueiras
Freguises Freguises da Boa Fé Nossa Senhora
Cromlech of
Monte Furado da Boa Fé Cromlech of São Bento de Catris
439 m Monte Furado São Sebastião Almendres
439 m Casas Novas da Giesteira Almendres Alto de São
FINISH Casas Novas São Bento Mamede
Foros da Carvalha 368 m
Santiago do Foros da Carvalha
Santiago do
Escoural Grutas do Dolmen of Zambujeiro
Dolmen of Zambujeiro
Escoural Escoural Grutas do Nossa Senhora Malagueira
Escoural de Guadalupe Évora
Valverde
Menhir of Valverde Espadas Horta das
São Brissos Almendres
São Brissos Figueiras
Nossa Senhora
Pomarinho
Freguises da Boa Fé Pomarinho
Beyond the hamlet, the Monte Furado Cromlech of
tiny Dolmen-chapel of Dolmen-chapel 439 m Nogueirinha Almendres
Dolmen-chapel
Nogueirinha
São Brissos has been of São Brissos Casas Novas
of São Brissos
created from an anta or Santiago do Foros da Carvalha Albufeira da Albufeira da
barragem de
dolmen. Another is to be Escoural Grutas do Nossa Senhora Dolmen of Zambujeiro
barragem de
Nossa Senhora
found at Pavia. Escoural da Tourega da Tourega
Valverde
São Brissos
Pomarinho
Nossa Senhora
Nossa Senhora
0 kilometres 2 2 N da Tourega
0 kilometres
Dolmen-chapel Nogueirinha N da Tourega
of São Brissos 0 miles 0 miles 2 2
Albufeira da
barragem de
Nossa Senhora
da Tourega
Nossa Senhora
0 kilometres 2 N da Tourega
0 miles 2
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Locator Map
For more detail see p294
Corinthian capitals
topping the columns
of Évora’s Roman temple
After setting off from
Évora (p296), head
to the surrounding
undul ating farmland
where at least 150
Moguizo
382 m Moguizo megalith sites have
382 m
been found.
Cortiçadas Cortiçadas São Matias São Matias
São Bento de Catris
São Bento de Catris
São Sebastião
São Sebastião
da Giesteira São Bento Alto de São São
Alto de
da Giesteira
Mamede
368 m
Moguizo 368 m São Bento Mamede
382 m START
Nossa Senhora Malagueira Malagueira Évora
Nossa Senhora
de Guadalupe Évora
de Guadalupe
Menhir of
Cortiçadas Almendres Menhir of São Matias Espadas Espadas Horta das Horta das
Nossa Senhora Almendres Figueiras Figueiras
Freguises Freguises da Boa Fé Nossa Senhora
Cromlech of
Monte Furado da Boa Fé Cromlech of São Bento de Catris
439 m Monte Furado São Sebastião Almendres
439 m Casas Novas da Giesteira Almendres Alto de
Casas Novas São Bento São
Foros da Carvalha 368 m Mamede
Santiago do Foros da Carvalha
Santiago do
Escoural Grutas do Dolmen of Zambujeiro
Dolmen of Zambujeiro
Escoural Escoural Grutas do Nossa Senhora Malagueira
Escoural de Guadalupe Évora
Valverde
Menhir of Valverde Espadas Horta das
São Brissos Almendres
São Brissos Figueiras
Nossa Senhora
Freguises da Boa Fé Pomarinho Pomarinho
Monte Furado Cromlech of
Dolmen-chapel 439 m Nogueirinha Almendres
Dolmen-chapel
Casas Novas
of São Brissos Nogueirinha
of São Brissos
Foros da Carvalha Albufeira da
Santiago do barragem de Albufeira da
barragem de
Escoural Grutas do Nossa Senhora Dolmen of Zambujeiro
Escoural Nossa Senhora
da Tourega da Tourega
Valverde
São Brissos The Dolmen of
Zambujeiro, the largest
Pomarinho
Nossa Senhora
Nossa Senhora
0 kilometres 2 2 N da Tourega dolmen in Portugal, has
0 kilometres
Dolmen-chapel Nogueirinha N da Tourega an entrance passage 14 m
of São Brissos 0 miles 0 miles 2 2 (46 ft) long leading to a
Albufeira da chamber built of enormous
barragem de stones. Located across
Nossa Senhora
da Tourega farmland from Valverde, it
is well off the beaten track.
Nossa Senhora
0 kilometres 2 N da Tourega
The ancient Dolmen-chapel
0 miles 2
of São Brissos
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Surfers running along the beach near Sagres at sunset
ALGARVE
The Algarve’s fertile soil and strategic headlands
and rivers have attracted visitors since the time of
the Phoenicians. Five centuries of Arab rule, from
AD 711, left a legacy that is still visible in the
region’s architecture, lattice chimneys, azulejos,
orange groves and almond trees. Place names
beginning with Al are also of Moorish origin;
Al-Gharb (“the West”) denoted the western
edge of the Islamic empire. When the Algarve
was reclaimed by the Christians in 1249, the
Portuguese rulers designated themselves kings
“of Portugal and of the Algarves”, emphasizing the
region’s separateness from the rest of the country.
It was the Algarve, however, that shot Portugal
to prominence in the 15th century, when Henry
the Navigator is said to have set up a school of
navigation at Sagres, and launched the age of
exploration from these southern shores. Three
centuries later the region was struck a devastating
blow by the earthquake of 1755, which destroyed
or damaged virtually all of the towns and villages.
Since the 1960s, when Faro airport was opened,
international tourism has replaced agriculture and
fishing as the region’s main industry. Nonetheless,
in places such as the pretty whitewashed village of
Alte or the border town of Alcoutim, the Algarve’s
rural way of life continues virtually uninterrupted.
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Ourique Ourique
Almograve Almograve São João do São João doss
Fonte Boa de Cima Caldeireiro Caldeireiross Mértola Mértola
Fonte Boa de Cima
Cavaleiro Cavaleiro
Aldeia de P Aldeia de Palheirosalheiros Monte dos Monte dos
Odemira Odemira Luzianes-Gare Mestres Mestres
Luzianes-Gare
Espirito Sant
Espirito Santoo
Moinhos de Moinhos de
S P A I N
Albufeira da
Albufeira da Vento de Cima S P A I N
Vento de Cima
Porto das Barcas Barragem Barragem
Porto das Barcas
B E J A
Santa Clara-a-Velha de Santa Cl de Santa Claraara Gomes Air Gomes Aireses B E J A
Santa Clara-a-Velha
Sao Teotónio Santana da Santana da Almodôvar Almodôvar Afonso Afonso
Sao Teotónio
Serra Serra Vicente Vicente
Ribeira de Vascão
Ribeira de Vascão Giões Giões ALCOUTIM
ALCOUTIM
Praia de Praia de Pereiro Pereiro
Odeceixe Odeceixe Odeceixe Martim Long
Odeceixe
Martim Longoo
Dogueno Dogueno Barrada Barrada Balurco da Baixo
Balurco da Baixo
Nave Redonda
Nave Redonda
ALENTEJO
ALENTEJO Guerreiros do Rio
Guerreiros do Rio
Ribeira da Foupana
Carriagem Carriagem Ribeira de Seixe São Marcos São Marcos Baião Baião p292 p292 Ribeira da Foupana Vaqueiro Vaqueiro
Ribeira de Seixe
Rogil Rogil da Serra da Serra Velho Velho Rio Guadiana Rio Guadiana
Foz do Far Foz do Fareloelo Ameixial Ameixial Corte João Corte João Furnazinha Furnazinhass
Foz de Odeleite
Praia de Praia de Marques Marques Foz de Odeleite
Monte Clérig
Monte Clérigo o
MONCHIQUE Cachopo Cachopo
MONCHIQUE
Ribeira de Odelouca
Ribeira de Odeleite
ALJEZUR
ALJEZUR Marmelete Marmelete S e r r a d o C Ribeira de Odeleite Odeleite Odeleite
Ribeira de Arade
SERRA DE MONCHIQUE Ribeira de Odelouca Barragem do Ribeira de Arade Aguas S e r r a d o C a l d e i r ã o
SERRA DE MONCHIQUE
Barragem do
Aguas a l d e i r ã o
Caldas de
Peralva
Praia de Praia de Casais Casais Monchique Caldas de Funcho Funcho Frias Frias Feiteira Feiteira Peralva Azinhal Azinhal
Monchique
São Bartolomeu
Arrifana Arrifana Alfambras Alfambras São Bartolomeu
de Messines Cortelha Cortelha
de Messines
Barragem da Barragem Barragem Portela Portela Benafim Benafim Barranco Velhoelho Javali Javali Água dos F Água dos Fusosusos
Barragem da
Bravura
Barranco V
do Arade
CASTRO MARIM
E s p in h a ç o d e C á o VILA REAL D
do Arade
de Messines
Se r ra d o
Se r ra d o
Porto de
Porto de
Bordeira Bordeira E s p in h a ç o d e C á o Bravura Vidigal Vidigal Lagos de Messines ALTE ALTE Querença Querença Estorninho Estorninhoss CASTRO MARIM
Lagos
VILA REAL DEE
Carrapateira SILVES SILVES Aldeia da T Aldeia da Tôrôr Alportel Alportel Palheirinho Palheirinhoss SANTO ANT
Carrapateira
SANTO ANTÓNIOÓNIO
F A R O
São Brás
Bensafrim Bensafrim Algoz Tunes Tunes LOULÉ LOULÉ F A R O São Brás Santa Santa Conceição Conceição Monte Monte
Catarina
de Alportel
de Alportel
Gordo
Gordo
Algoz
Catarina
PORTIMÃ
Pedralva Pedralva Odiáxere Odiáxere PORTIMÃOO Lagoa Lagoa Alcantarilha Cabanas Cabanas CACELA CACELA
Alcantarilha
Praia de Praia de ALVOR ALVOR Boliqueime Boliqueime Santa Bárbara VELHA VELHA
Santa Bárbara
Castelejo Castelejo Ferragudo Ferragudo Porches Ferreiras Ferreiras de Nexe de Nexe Pereiro Pereiro Santo Santo TAVIRA TAVIRA
Porches
Praia da Praia da Estêvão Estêvão
Budens Budens LAGOS LAGOS Rocha Luz Luz
Rocha
VILA DO VILA DO Carvoeiro Carvoeiro Senhora VILAMO VILAMOURAURA ALMAN ALMANCILCIL ESTOI ESTOI
Senhora
BISPO BISPO Luz Luz da Rocha da Rocha Moncarapacho
Moncarapacho
Figueira Figueira Pechão Pechão Ilha de Ilha de
ALBUFEIRA
Burgau Burgau ALBUFEIRA Quarteira Quarteira São João da São João da Tavira Tavira
Fuseta
Venda Venda OLHÃO OLHÃO Fuseta
CABO DE SÃO VICENTE Quinta do Lago Ilha de Ilha de
CABO DE SÃO VICENTE
Quinta do Lago
Faro Faro Armona Armona
FARO
SAGRES SAGRES Praia de Praia de FARO Ilha de Cul Ilha de Culatraatra
Faro Faro
Cabo de P Cabo de PARQUE NATURAL DA RIA FORMOSAARQUE NATURAL DA RIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Santa Maria
A tl antic Oc
A tl antic Oc eanean
ALGARVE ALGARVE
0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 10 10 N N
0 miles 0 miles 10 10
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Ourique Ourique
Almograve Almograve São João do São João doss
Fonte Boa de Cima
Fonte Boa de Cima Caldeireiro Caldeireiross Mértola Mértola
Cavaleiro Cavaleiro
Aldeia de P Aldeia de Palheirosalheiros Monte dos Monte dos
Odemira Odemira Luzianes-Gare Mestres Mestres
Luzianes-Gare
Espirito Santoo
Espirito Sant
Moinhos de Moinhos de
S P A I N
Albufeira da
Albufeira da Vento de Cima S P A I N
Vento de Cima
Porto das Barcas Barragem Barragem
Porto das Barcas
Santa Clara-a-Velha
Santa Clara-a-Velha de Santa Cl de Santa Claraara Gomes Air Gomes Aireses B E J A B E J A
Sao Teotónio Santana da Santana da Almodôvar Almodôvar Afonso Afonso
Sao Teotónio
Serra Serra Vicente Vicente
Ribeira de Vascão Giões Giões ALCOUTIM
Ribeira de Vascão
ALCOUTIM
Praia de Praia de Pereiro Pereiro
Odeceixe Odeceixe Odeceixe Martim Long
Odeceixe
Martim Longoo
Dogueno Dogueno Barrada Barrada Balurco da Baixo
Balurco da Baixo
Nave Redonda
Nave Redonda
ALENTEJO
ALENTEJO Guerreiros do Rio
Guerreiros do Rio
Ribeira da Foupana
Carriagem Carriagem Ribeira de Seixe São Marcos São Marcos Baião Baião p292 p292 Ribeira da Foupana Vaqueiro Vaqueiro
Ribeira de Seixe
Rogil Rogil da Serra da Serra Velho Velho Rio Guadiana Rio Guadiana
Foz do Far Foz do Fareloelo Ameixial Ameixial Corte João Corte João Furnazinha Furnazinhass
Foz de Odeleite
Praia de Praia de Marques Marques Foz de Odeleite
Monte Clérig
Monte Clérigo o
MONCHIQUE
MONCHIQUE Cachopo Cachopo
Ribeira de Odelouca
Ribeira de Odeleite
ALJEZUR Marmelete Marmelete S e r r a d o C Ribeira de Odeleite Odeleite Odeleite
ALJEZUR
Ribeira de Arade
SERRA DE MONCHIQUE
SERRA DE MONCHIQUE Ribeira de Odelouca Barragem do Ribeira de Arade Aguas S e r r a d o C a l d e i r ã o
Barragem do
Aguas a l d e i r ã o
Caldas de
Peralva
Praia de Praia de Casais Casais Monchique Caldas de Funcho Funcho Frias Frias Feiteira Feiteira Peralva Azinhal Azinhal
Monchique
São Bartolomeu
Arrifana Arrifana Alfambras Alfambras São Bartolomeu
de Messines
de Messines Cortelha Cortelha
Barragem da Barragem Barragem Portela Portela Benafim Benafim Barranco Velhoelho Javali Javali Água dos F Água dos Fusosusos
Barragem da
Bravura
Barranco V
do Arade
do Arade
E s p in h a ç o d e C á o VILA REAL D
CASTRO MARIM
de Messines
Se r ra d o
Se r ra d o
Porto de
Bordeira Bordeira E s p in h a ç o d e C á o Bravura Vidigal Vidigal Porto de de Messines ALTE ALTE Querença Querença Estorninho Estorninhoss CASTRO MARIM
Lagos
Lagos
VILA REAL DEE
Carrapateira
SANTO ANTÓNIOÓNIO
Carrapateira SILVES SILVES Aldeia da T Aldeia da Tôrôr Alportel Alportel Palheirinho Palheirinhoss SANTO ANT
F A R O
São Brás
Bensafrim Bensafrim Algoz Tunes Tunes LOULÉ LOULÉ F A R O São Brás Santa Santa Conceição Conceição Monte Monte
Algoz
Catarina
Catarina
de Alportel
de Alportel
Gordo
Gordo
PORTIMÃ
Pedralva Pedralva Odiáxere Odiáxere PORTIMÃOO Lagoa Lagoa Alcantarilha Cabanas Cabanas CACELA CACELA
Alcantarilha
Praia de Praia de ALVOR ALVOR Boliqueime Boliqueime Santa Bárbara VELHA VELHA
Santa Bárbara
Castelejo Castelejo Ferragudo Ferragudo Porches Ferreiras Ferreiras de Nexe de Nexe Pereiro Pereiro Santo Santo TAVIRA TAVIRA
Porches
Praia da Praia da Estêvão Estêvão
Budens Budens LAGOS LAGOS Rocha Luz Luz
Rocha
VILA DO VILA DO Carvoeiro Carvoeiro Senhora VILAMO VILAMOURAURA ALMAN ALMANCILCIL ESTOI ESTOI
Senhora
BISPO BISPO Luz Luz da Rocha da Rocha Moncarapacho
Moncarapacho
Figueira Figueira Pechão Pechão Ilha de Ilha de
ALBUFEIRA
Burgau Burgau ALBUFEIRA Quarteira Quarteira São João da São João da Tavira Tavira
Fuseta
Venda Venda OLHÃO OLHÃO Fuseta
CABO DE SÃO VICENTE
CABO DE SÃO VICENTE Quinta do Lago Ilha de Ilha de
Quinta do Lago
Faro Faro Armona Armona
FARO
SAGRES SAGRES Praia de Praia de FARO Ilha de Cul Ilha de Culatraatra
Faro Faro
Cabo de P Cabo de PARQUE NATURAL DA RIA FORMOSAARQUE NATURAL DA RIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Santa Maria
ALGARVE
A tl antic Oc eanean
A tl antic Oc Must See 12 Albufeira
1 Faro 13 Vilamoura
14 Almancil
Experience More 15 Olhão
2 Aljezur 16 Loulé
3 Serra de Monchique u Parque Natural da Ria Formosa
4 Monchique i Tavira
5 Vila do Bispo o Alte
6 Sagres p Estoi
7 Cabo de São Vicente a Vila Real de Santo António
8 Lagos s Cacela Velha
9 Portimão d Castro Marim
10 Alvor f Alcoutim
ALGARVE ALGARVE 11 Silves
0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 10 10 N N
0 miles 0 miles 10 10
320-321_EW_Portugal.indd 321 20/09/2018 10:42
EXPERIENCE Algarve
Faro’s marina, lined with
palm trees, bathed in a
warm evening glow
1 Nossa Senhora da Assunção,
which was founded for the
FARO Poor Clares by Dona Leonor,
sister of Manuel I. Look for her
adorns the portico.
! E7 k 5 km (3 miles) SW £ Largo da Estação @ Avenida emblem, a fishing net, which
da República n Rua da Misericórdia; 289 803 604 Under the Romans, Faro
became an important port
Often overlooked by visitors, thic city is more than just and administrative centre,
a gateway to the beaches. Capital of the Algarve since named Ossonoba. A variety of
1756, Faro has been reborn several times over the fascinating local archaeological
centuries – following invasion, fire and earthquake. finds from the city’s Roman
Captured from the Moors in 1249 by Afonso III, Faro heyday, including busts of Faro Jewish
Emperor Hadrian and
prospered until 1596, when it was sacked and burned Agrippina, are displayed in R U A D A A T A L A I A Heritage
Centre
by the Earl of Essex. A new city rose from the ashes, the Museu Municipal. The Igreja do RUA GENERA Municipal 400 metres
Mercado
(440 yards)
only to be damaged in the earthquake of 1755 (p45). museum is partly housed in the RUA DA BOAVISTA Carmo RU A DO A L PO RTE L R. COELHO DE MELO de Faro
R. HORTA MACHADO
lovely two-storey Renaissance RUA CONSELHEIRO SEBASTIÃO TELES R U A S E R P LARGO DO SÉRGIO
CARMO
LARGO
eccentric features is the large cloister, built by Afonso Pires RUA ANTÓNIO L TEOFILO TRINDADE DR FRANCISCO
1 " 18th-century organ decorated in 1540. The collection also RUA MIGUEL BOMBARDA A Taska C R UZ D OS M E ST RE S SÁ CARNEIRO R U A G E N E R A L
DE BRAGA
H U M B E R T O
Sé with Chinese motifs. Its range contains medieval and LARGO R. TEOFILO A P I N T O São Pedro LARGO RUA DO JUSTINO CRIMANO RUA M. DE D E LG A D O
R. D A
R U A I N F AN T E D O M H E N R
DA
includes an echoing horn and Manueline stone carvings and ESTAÇÃO RU A F. BA R RE TO MADALENA LARGO DE DAS MOURAS ALBUQUERQUE
VELHAS
⌂ Largo da Sé § 289 823 R. DE S. PEDRO S. PEDRO Ermida de Santo
018 # 10am–6pm Sun–Fri a nightingale’s song, and it statuary. However, the most Railway RUA GIL EANESI Q U E R. BAPTISTA LOPES António do Alto
600 metres
(to 5pm Dec–Jan), 9:30am– has often been used by attractive exhibit is a huge, Station RUA DA BARQUETA R. F. ALISTÃO RUA ALMEIDA G ARRET (650 yards)
leading European organists.
Roman floor mosaic featuring
1pm Sat ¢ Public hols R. COMPROMIS SO PR. R U A D R . J . L Ú C I O
The cathedral is free to enter, a magni ficently exe cuted R. CONS. BIVAR RU A D O PRIOR FERREIRA DE
ALMEIDA
R U A J O Ã O D E D E U S
The first Christian church here, but you must purchase a ticket head of the god Neptune (3rd Bus Station R U A D E PORT U GA L AVENIDA 5 DE OUTUBRO
built on the site of a mosque, to ascend the bell tower. century AD), which was found RUA 1 DE MAIO RUA VASCO DA GAMA
AV E NIDA DA R EPU B LI CA
ARRIAGA
was all but destroyed in the near the city’s railway station. R UA IVE NS PR. DE Museu RUA DOUTOR MANUEL
RUA DE
attack by the English in 1596. Museu Marítimo Ria S. ANTÓNIO LIBERDADE Regional
Formosa
The base of the bell tower, its Almirante Ramalho RU A R E B E L O D A S I LV A LARGO Nossa
Senhora do
medieval doorway and two 2 " INSIDER TIP Ortigão PRAÇA DOM FRANCISCO GOMES Jardim DO PÉ DA Pé da Cruz
CRUZ
chapels survived, and long- Museu Municipal Set Your Alarm Manuel RUA CASTILHO PRAÇA Alameda
term reconstruction resulted ⌂ Largo Dom Afonso III Get up early and head Bivar ALEXANDRE R U A D O B O C A G E
HERCULANO
in a mixture of styles. § 289 870 827 # Jun– straight for the morning RUA DA POLÍCIA DE
By the 1640s, a grander Sep: 10am–7pm Tue–Fri, market on Largo Dr RUA DO ALBERGUE SEGURANÇA PÚBLICA
building had emerged, which 11:30am–6pm Sat & Sun; Francisco Sá Carneiro R U A D O T E R E S A R A M A L H O O R T I G Ã O
included a chancel decorated Oct–May: 10am–6pm Tue– to beat the crowds. The R . RASQUI N H O FRANCISCO RUA DE S. R U A E N G E NH E I R O A B O I M S A N D E L E M O S
with azulejos and the Capela Fri, 10:30am–5pm Sat & bustling stalls offer RUA COMANDANTE FRANCISCO MANUEL LARGO RUA DE CAÇADORES
DA SÉ
de Nossa Senhora dos Sun ¢ Public hols fresh local produce, Sé AFONSO III
PRAÇA
R U A E N G E N H E I R O
Prazeres, adorned with as well as clothing Museu Igreja de São J O A Q U I M L O P E S B E L C H I O R
ornate gilded woodcarving. The city’s museum is housed and local crafts. R. DO TREM Municipal Francisco
One of the cathedral’s most in the former convent of LARGO DE SÃO 0 metres 250 N
LG. DO FRANCISCO LARGO DE SÃO FRANCISCO
CASTELO
Ilha de Tavira 0 yards 250
322 24 km (15 miles)
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Must See
EXPLORING THE
OLD CITY
At Faro’s heart, the Largo
da Sé is a peaceful square,
lined with orange trees
and flanked by the ele-
gant Paço Episcopal
(bishop’s palace). Venture
beyond the old city walls
to the azulejo-decked
church of São Francisco.
Further north is the 17th-
century Nossa Senhora
do Pé da Cruz with fan-
ciful oil panels of stories
from Genesis.
Algarve’s traditional way of life,
3 " displaying ceramics, looms
Museu Regional and horse tack. Old photo 8,000
graphs document peasant
⌂ Praça da Liberdade 2 farming techniques, with their
§ 289 878 238 # 10am– The student population
1:30pm, 2:30–6pm Tue–Fri heavy reliance on manpower, of Faro makes for a
¢ Public hols donkeys and oxen. The most buzzy nightlife.
charming exhibit is the cart
This ethnographic museum used by the last waterseller in
takes a nostalgic look at the Olhão, in operation until 1974.
R U A D A A T A L A I A RUA GENERA Faro Jewish
Heritage
Centre
RUA DA BOAVISTA Igreja do RU A DO A L PO RTE L R. COELHO DE MELO Municipal 400 metres
Mercado
(440 yards)
Carmo
de Faro
SÉRGIO
LARGO DO
R. HORTA MACHADO
CARMO RUA ANTÓNIO L TEOFILO TRINDADE DR FRANCISCO
LARGO
R U A S E R P
DE BRAGA São Pedro A Taska C R UZ D OS M E ST RE S SÁ CARNEIRO R U A G E N E R A L
H U M B E R T O
LARGO R. TEOFILO A P I N T O RUA M. DE
D E LG A D O
RUA CONSELHEIRO SEBASTIÃO TELES
R U A I N F AN T E D O M H E N R
DA R. D A LARGO RUA DO JUSTINO CRIMANO ALBUQUERQUE
ESTAÇÃO RU A F. BA R RE TO MADALENA LARGO DE DAS MOURAS Ermida de Santo
RUA MIGUEL BOMBARDA
VELHAS
S. PEDRO
Railway RUA GIL EANESI Q U E R. DE S. PEDRO R. BAPTISTA LOPES António do Alto
600 metres
Station RUA DA BARQUETA R. F. ALISTÃO RUA ALMEIDA G ARRET (650 yards)
PR. R U A D R . J . L Ú C I O
FERREIRA DE
ALMEIDA
R U A J O Ã O D E D E U S
Bus Station R U A D E PORT U GA L AVENIDA 5 DE OUTUBRO
RUA 1 DE MAIO R UA IVE NS RUA VASCO DA GAMA RUA DOUTOR MANUEL
R. COMPROMIS SO
R. CONS. BIVAR
RU A D O PRIOR
AV E NIDA DA REPU B LI CA
PR. DE
Ria RUA DE LIBERDADE Museu ARRIAGA
Regional
Museu Marítimo Formosa S. ANTÓNIO
Almirante Ramalho LARGO Nossa
Ortigão PRAÇA DOM FRANCISCO GOMES Jardim RUA CASTILHO HERCULANO DO PÉ DA Senhora do Alameda
RU A R E B E L O D A S I LV A
Pé da Cruz
CRUZ
Manuel
PRAÇA
Bivar
ALEXANDRE
R U A D O B O C A G E
R U A D O T E R E S A R A M A L H O O R T I G Ã O SEGURANÇA PÚBLICA
RUA DO ALBERGUE
RUA DA POLÍCIA DE
LARGO R . RASQUI N H O FRANCISCO RUA DE S. RUA DE CAÇADORES R U A E N G E NH E I R O A B O I M S A N D E L E M O S
DA SÉ
Sé PRAÇA
AFONSO III R U A E N G E N H E I R O
Museu Igreja de São J O A Q U I M L O P E S B E L C H I O R
Francisco
Municipal
RUA COMANDANTE FRANCISCO MANUEL
LARGO DE SÃO 0 metres 250 N
R. DO TREM
LG. DO FRANCISCO LARGO DE SÃO FRANCISCO
CASTELO
Ilha de Tavira 0 yards 250
24 km (15 miles)
322-325_EW_Portugal.indd 323 20/09/2018 10:42
4 "
Igreja do Carmo Pretty purple jacaranda
trees blooming in front
⌂ Largo do Carmo § 289 of the whitewashed
824 490 # 10am–1pm, São Pedro church
3–5:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–
1pm Sat 5
The impressive façade of this
EXPERIENCE Algarve 1755 Lisbon earthquake proved ⌂ Largo de São Pedro
church was begun in 1713. The São Pedro
disastrous for the construction,
§ 289 805 473 # Mon–Sat
and the structure that you see
The parish church of Faro is
today, with its delicate twin
bell towers, was designed by
dedicated to St Peter, patron
Diogo Tavares (1711–1765)
after the earthquake.
restored with Italianate
columns after the earthquake
Although the exterior of the saint of fishermen. Though
church was not completed of 1755, much of the original
until 1878, the finishing Baroque decor ation in the
touches were made to the tri-nave church has survived,
lavish interior 150 years including the main altarpiece,
earlier. Inside, the decoration dating from 1689.
is Baroque run wild, with Highlights include the
every scroll and barley-sugar chapel of the Santíssimo
twist covered in precious Sacramento, with a dazzling
Brazilian gold leaf. altarpiece (c 1745) featuring a
In sombre contrast, the bas-relief of the Last Supper,
Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of and a sculpture of St Anne
Bones) has walls lined with teaching the young Virgin
skulls and large bones. It was Mary to read. Be sure not
built in 1816, using remains to miss the altar of the
from the friars’ cemetery. Capela das Almas, which is
Similarly to the chapel found surrounded by stunning EAT
in Évora’s São Francisco (p298), azulejos (c 1730) showing the
it was designed to be a stark Virgin and other saints pulling
reminder of the transience of souls out of purgatory. The A Taska
human life. Unlike the church, church also has some lovely The xarém (thick
you must buy a ticket to visit stained-glass windows, which cornmeal soup with
the chapel. bathe the floor in light. clams and bacon) is a
speciality at this rustic
restaurant. Look out for
the dish of the day or
the tasting menu.
⌂ Rua do Alportel 38
§ 969 441 381 ¢ Sun
¡¡¡
Ria Formosa
This lounge bar and
restaurant on the roof
of the Hotel Faro offers
amazing views. It is the
best spot in the city for
Sunday brunch.
⌂ Hotel Faro, Praça Dom
Francisco Gomes 2
∑ hotelfaro.pt
¡¡¡
The macabre interior of the Capela
dos Ossos in Igreja do Carmo
324
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GREAT VIEW
Pano-Drama
A brisk walk uphill to
the highest point in the
city – Ermida de Santo
António do Alto – grants
a brilliant panorama of
Faro with the sea and
saltpans to the south.
6 Inside, the decoration is Baroque run wild, with
Faro Jewish every scroll and barley-sugar twist covered in
Heritage Centre precious Brazilian gold leaf. In sombre contrast,
the Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones), has walls
⌂ Estrada da Penha
§ 289 829 525 # 9am– lined with skulls and large bones.
1pm, 2–4:30pm Mon–Fri
¢ Public hols
At the far northeast corner
of the city is the Jewish
cemetery, created for the
Jewish commu nity brought
here in the 1700s by the
Marquês de Pombal (p45) to
revitalize the economy. The
cemetery is laid out in the
traditional Sephardic way,
with children near est the
entrance, women in the centre
and men at the back. It served
from 1838 until 1932, during
which time 60 local families
prospered, then moved away.
Today there is no Jewish
community in Faro.
Visitors walking among the
graves at the Faro Jewish
Heritage Centre
325
325
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EXPERIENCE MORE
2 3
Aljezur Serra de Monchique
EAT ! D7 @ n 25 de Abril 62; ! E7 @ Monchique
EXPERIENCE Algarve Michelin stars thanks to The small village of Aljezur is Providing shelter from the
n Monchique; 282
282 998 229
911 189
Ocean
overlooked by a 10th-century
Overseen by German
Moorish castle, which is
north, this volcanic moun tain
chef Hans Neuner,
range helps to ensure the
reached via the old quarter.
Ocean boasts two
mild southern climate of the
Although in ruins, a cistern
the chef’s creative
Fóia at 902 m (2,959 ft). This,
cooking of local
are splendid views towards
the Serra de Monchique.
however, is less pleasantly
ingredients. The menu and towers remain, and there Algarve. The highest point is
features pigeon, Aljezur’s Igreja Matriz, much wooded than Picota, which at
octopus and the catch rebuilt after the earthquake 773 m (2,536 ft) is the second-
of the day. of 1755, has a fine Neo-Classical highest peak. An impressive
! E7 ⌂ Hotel Vila Vita altarpiece. Dating from about 4-km (2.5-mile) walk to this
Parc, Rua Anneliese 1809, it was prob ably executed peak from Monchique passes
Pohl, Alporchinhos, in the workshop of José da among chestnut trees and
Porches ¢ Wed–Sun L, Costa of Faro. fields of wild flowers. A
Mon & Tue From Aljezur, the wild and spectacular panorama sweeps
∑ restaurante deserted beaches of the down to the Ponta de Sagres
ocean.com Algarve’s west coast are easily (p328) and there are stunning
¡¡¡ explored, although a car is views of the rest of the range.
essential. Open to the strong The 30-km (19-mile) drive
Rei das Praias currents of the Atlantic, Praia along the N267 from Nave,
A sublime beachside de Arrifana 10 km (6 miles) just below Monchique, to
southwest, and Praia de Monte
Aljezur in the west, leads
restaurant built on
stilts above a charming Clérigo, 8 km (5 miles) north- through a beautiful part of
cove. The daily specials west, are sandy, sweeping the Serra. The landscape is a
feature fresh fish beaches backed by cliffs. On mixture of woods and moor-
and seafood. the Alentejo border, Praia land. The cork oak trees that
de Odeceixe has a stunning grow here are home to the
! E7 ⌂ Praia da
Caneiros, Ferragudo beach, and the sheltered tiny nuthatch and lesser-
∑ restaurantedas cove is popular with surfers. spotted woodpecker.
praias.com
¡¡¡
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The pretty main
square in the spa
town of Monchique
There is a wonderful variety
of vege tation to enjoy in
the Serra, including mimosa,
rhododen dron, chestnut, pine
and cork oak. The fastgrowing
eucalyp tus trees, however,
have given cause for concern.
This highly flammable species
is one of the reasons for the
serious fires that break out all
too often in the Serra.
and consequently spectacular
views. It is also known for its 5 "
4 wooden handi crafts, particu Vila do Bispo
larly the folding chairs, which
Monchique date back to Roman times. ! D7 @ n Sagres;
The 16thcentury Igreja 282 624 873
! E7 @ n Largo de São
Sebastião; 282 911 189 Matriz, on the cobbled Rua da The grand name of “The
Igreja behind the main square, Bishop’s Town” today re fers
The small market town of has an impressive Manueline to a peaceful village, rather
Monchique is primarily famous doorway whose knotted remote in feel. It acquired its
for its altitude, 458 m (1,500 ft), columns end in unusual pin name in the 17th century
nacles. Above the town is the when it was donated to the
ruined monastery of Nossa bishop of Faro. The town’s
Senhora do Desterro. This parish church, Nossa Senhora
300 Franciscan house, founded in da Conceição, has a delightful
interior decorated with 18th
1632 by Dom Pero da Silva, is
now only a shell but it is worth century azulejos from the floor
The number of visiting for the stunning views up to the painted ceil ing, and
days of sunshine across to the peak of Picota. an altar piece dating from 1715.
per year enjoyed in A delightful spa 6 km The beaches in the area are
the Algarve. (4 miles) south of Monchique, remote and unspoiled. Praia do
Caldas de Monchique is set in Castelejo, 5 km (3 miles) to the
the foothills of the Serra in west, is accessible by a dirt road
wooded surroundings. The hot, that winds up from the village.
curative waters have attracted The intrepid can turn off this
the ailing since Roman times, track for the 6km (4mile)
and even though João II died journey to Torre de Aspa, an
soon after taking them in obelisk at 156 m (512 ft)
1495, their reputation has marking the spot for specta
remained undiminished. In cular views over the ocean. The
the summer, people come to road is quite rough, so it’s best
be treated for skin, digestive to walk the last 2 km (1 mile).
and rheumatic complaints.
As well as the spring water,
the bars here offer local HIDDEN GEM
firewater, medronho. Fóia
The shady main square has From Monchique, it
a large, attractive handicraft is an easy drive to the
centre and there are some top of Fóia, the highest
pretty walks in the woods. point of the Algarve.
From here, there are
wonder ful vistas over
the coast and across
Panorama of the sun the hills of the Serra
rising over the village de Monchique.
of Aljezur
327
327
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EXPERIENCE Algarve
Promontory of Cabo de São
Vicente jutting into the
Atlantic Ocean
6 dream “to see what lay 7
beyond the Canaries and Cape
Sagres Bojador… and attempt the Cabo de São Vicente
discovery of things hidden
! D7 @ n Rua Comandante from men”. From 1419 to 1460, ! D7 @ To Sagres then taxi
Matoso; 282 624 873 n Sagres; 282 624 873
he poured his energy and the
The small town of Sagres re venues of the Order of Christ In the Middle Ages, this wind-
has little to offer except a (p176), of which he was master, blown cape at the ex treme
picturesque harbour, but it into building caravels and southwest of Europe was
is a good base from which to sending his fear-stricken believed to be the end of the
explore the superb beaches sailors into unknown waters. world. Today, with its 60-m-
and isolated penin sula west of In 1434, Gil Eanes of Lagos (200-ft-) tall cliffs, it still
the town. Henry the Navigator was the first sailor to round presents an awe-inspiring
built a fortress on this the dreaded Cape Bojador, in aspect. The ocean waves have
windswept promontory and, the region of Western Sahara. created long, sandy beaches
according to tradition, a school With this feat, the west coast and carved deep caves.
of navigation and a shipyard. of Africa was opened up for
From here he realized his exploration and Portugal’s
empire expanded. HENRY THE
Little remains of Prince NAVIGATOR
Henry’s original fortress: the Although he didn't sail
walls that can be seen today himself, Henry (1394–
are part of a 17th-century fort. 1460), the third son
Still visible is the giant pebble of João I, laid the foun
wind compass, the Rosa dos dations for Portugal’s
Ventos, 43 m (141 ft) in dia- maritime expansion
meter, said to have been used that were later built
by Henry. The simple chapel upon by João II and
of Nossa Senhora da Graça solidified by Manuel I.
was also built by him. The As master of the rich
whole site, looking across to Order of Christ and
Cabo de São Vicente and out governor of the Algarve,
towards the open Atlantic, is Henry was able to
exhilarating and atmospheric. finance expe ditions to
The town is within easy reach the African coast. By
of superb beaches, such as the time he died he had
Interior of Nossa family-friendly Martinhal and a monopoly on all trade
Senhora da Graça Telheiro, which is perfect for south of Cape Bojador.
in Sagres surfing and bodyboarding.
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8
Lagos
STAY ! D7 £ @ n Praça Gil Did You Know?
Eanes; 282 763 031 "Lagos" means "lakes"
Hotel Eva Set on a large bay, Lagos is in Portuguese and the
With rooms facing the an attrac tive, bustling town. city earns its water-
marina, this hotel has a In the 8th century it was con based name.
rooftop bar and pool. quered by the Arabs, who left
! E7 ⌂ Avenida da behind fortifications. A well
República 1, Faro preserved section and arch
∑ hotel-eva- way can be seen near Rua do the rest in carved, gilded and
faro.h-rez.com
Castelo dos Governadores, painted woodwork, an inspira
¡¡¡ where there is a monument tional and riotous example of
to the navigator Gil Eanes. Baroque carving. Cherubs,
Martinhal Beach The discoveries of the beasts, flowers and scenes of
Resort 15th century, pion eered by hunting and fishing surround
Henry the Navigator, whose eight panel paintings of mira
Family-friendly resort, statue gazes scowlingly out cles performed by St Antony.
with sports facilities, to sea, turned Lagos into an Near the altar is the grave of
facing a lovely beach. important naval centre. At the Hugh Beatty, an Irish colo nel
! D7 ⌂ Quinta do same time a most deplor able who commanded the Lagos
Martinhal, Martinhal period of history began, with regi ment during the 17th
∑ martinhal.com the first slaves brought back century wars with Spain. He
from the Sahara in 1441 by died here in 1709 and his
¡¡¡
Henry’s explorer Nuno Tristão. motto Non vi sed arte (“Not
The site of the first slave with force but with skill”)
Pousada Convento market in Europe is marked adorns the tomb. The church
da Graça
Sumptuously converted by a plaque under the arcades forms part of the neighbouring
museum Museu Municipal
on Rua da Senhora da Graça.
16th-century convent Ex tensive damage was Dr José Formosinho.
with pool and bar. caused by the earth quake
! F7 ⌂ Rua D Paio Peres of 1755, so today the centre Santo António
Correia, Tavira consists primarily of pretty ⌂ Rua General Alberto
∑ pousadas.pt 18th and 19thcentury Silveira § 282 762 301
buildings. The citizens of Lagos # 10am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm
¡¡¡
continue to make their living Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
from fishing, which helps the
town to retain a character
indepen dent of the tourist
Since the 15th century, Cabo trade. The smart marina on
de São Vicente has been an the east side of town is the
important reference point for first safe place for anchorage
shipping, and its present light on the south coast for boats
house has a 95km (60mile) coming in from the Atlantic.
range, said to be the most On the seafront stands the
powerful in Europe. For even 17thcentury fortress which
longer it has had religious defended the entrance to the
associations, and its name harbour. Its imposing ramparts
arises from the legend that afford farreaching views over
the body of St Vincent was the town and the bay.
washed ashore here in the The 18thcentury church of
4th century. Santo António is an Algarvian
Since 1988, the coast from jewel. The lower section of
Sines in the north (p313) to the walls is covered in
Burgau in the east has been blueandwhite azulejos,
made a nature reserve, provid
ing important nesting grounds
for Bonelli’s eagle, kestrel,
white stork, heron and numer Statue of Henry the
ous other bird species. There Navigator in Lagos
is also a colony of sea otters. town square
328-329_EW_Portugal.indd 329 20/09/2018 10:42
9 The waterfront is lively and
many of the restaurants serve
Portimão the fresh catch of the day.
Portimão has a long fishing
! E7 £ @ n Teatro tradition that developed
Municipal de Portimão,
Largo 1° de Dezembro; between the 19th and 20th
282 402 487 centuries with the advent of
the canning industry. The
The Algarve’s second-largest
award-winning Museu de
EXPERIENCE Algarve character and a long history canning factory, is located on
Portimão, housed in a for mer
city, Portimão has plenty of
the southern end of the
as a port. The Romans settled
esplanade. The museum pays
here, attracted by the natural
harbour on the estuary of
homage to the local people,
the Rio Arade.
and the town that for centuries
Portimão’s northern
outskirts consist of com-
Just 3 km (2 miles) south
of Divino Salvador in
lies Portimão’s touristic
mercial and resi den tial areas. has lived exclusively off the sea. Beautiful little church
Further into the municipality neighbour, Praia da Rocha, a the centre of Alvor
is the historic 18th-century series of sandy coves among
town centre, which has plenty protruding red and ochre
of excellent shop ping options, rocks. At its east end is the 10
as well as a large, bustling 16th-century Fortaleza de
market. The pictur esque Santa Catarina, with superb Alvor
riverfront is nearby. beach views, and below is ! E7 £ @ n Rua Dr Afonso
The centre lies around the Portimão Marina. Costa 51; 282 457 540
pedestrianized Rua Vasco da For a thrilling experience,
Gama, with shops spe cializing head to the Autódromo This pretty fishing town of
in leather goods. Along Rua Internacional do Algarve racing white houses is popular with
Diogo Tomé, the church of circuit located 8 km (6 miles) holiday-makers, so visit during
Nossa Senhora da Conceição north of the city centre. the low season. It was a
occupies a low hill. Rebuilt Roman port, and later the
after being damaged in the Museu de Portimão Moorish town of Al-Bur. By the
earth quake of 1755 (p45), its ⌂ Rua Dom Carlos, Zona 16th century it was again a
14th-century origins are still Ribeirinha # Aug: 3–11pm prosperous town, but it was
visible in the portico, with its Wed–Sun (from 7:30pm Tue); damaged in the earthquake of
carved capitals. Inside, there Sep–Jul: 10am–6pm Wed–Sun 1755. The town was rebuilt with
are 17th- and 18th-century (from 2:30pm Tue) ∑ museu stone from the Moorish castle,
azulejo panels. deportimao.pt so little of that remains.
A life-size exhibit at the Museu
de Portimão demonstrating
the life of a local worker
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Statues in an
ornamental pool in
Praça al Mutamid, Silves
At the top of the town the
16th-century church, Divino
Salvador, has a Manueline
portal carved with foliage, lions
and dragons. The outermost
arch is an octopus tentacle.
11
Silves
! E7 £ @ n Parque das
Merendas; 282 098 927
Silves’ commanding position
made it the ideal fortified
settle ment. The Romans built
a castle here, but it was under
the Arabs that the city flour-
ished, becoming the Moorish
capital, Xelb. In the mid-12th
century the Arab geo grapher
Idrisi praised its beauty and
its “delicious, magnificent”
figs. Silves was renowned as a
centre of culture in Moorish statue of Nossa Senhora structure descends 15 m
Al-Gharb until the Knights of da Conceição, believed to (49 ft) to the bottom of
Santiago took the city in 1242. date from the 14th century. the well.
Today, the red walls of the Opposite the Sé, the One kilometre (half a mile)
castle stand out against the 16th-century Misericórdia east of Silves is the Cruz de
sky line. The nearby Casa church has a Manueline Portugal, an ornate 16th-
da Cultura Islâmica e side door and a beautiful century granite cross, carved
Mediterrânica hosts local Renaissance altarpiece. with the Crucifixion. This may
exhibitions and events. Downhill from the cathedral, have been given to the city by
The red sandstone Castelo the Museu Arqueológico was Manuel I, when João II’s body
de Silves dates back mainly to opened in 1990. Its exhibits was trans ferred from Silves
Moorish times, though it has include Stone and Iron Age to Batalha (p172).
done duty as a Christian fort- tools, sculpted Roman capitals,
ress and a jail. It was the site surgical instruments from the Casa da Cultura Islâmica
of the Palace of the Verandahs, 5th–7th centuries and items e Mediterrânica
abode of Al-Mu’tamid from of 18th-century ceramics. The ' ⌂ Largo da República
1053 when he was ruler of museum is built around a § 282 440 800 # Tue–Fri,
Seville and Wali of Al-Gharb. large Arab well-cistern that Sat pm for groups only
There are superb views of was uncov ered in 1980.
the town and countryside The staircase built into the Castelo de Silves
from the massive, polygonal " ⌂ Rua do Castelo § 282
ram parts. Inside, there are 440 837 # Jul–Sep: 9am–7pm;
gardens and the impressive Oct–Jun: 9am–5:30pm daily
vaulted Moorish Cisterna da
Moura Encantada (Cistern of Did You Know? Sé
the Enchanted Moorish Girl). " ⌂ Largo da Sé # 9am–
Built on the site of a Sancho I (1185–1211) 5pm Mon–Fri ¢ Public hols
mosque, the Sé dates styled himself as
from the 13th cen tury. In the king of Silves from Museu Arqueológico
chancel, light falls from lovely 1189 to 1191. " ⌂ Rua das Portas de
double windows with stained- Loulé 14 § 282 440 838
glass borders on a jas per # 10am–6pm daily
331
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Rocky coastline at Praia
de São Rafael, just outside
Albufeira, at sunrise
high-rise hotels. Vilamoura is
a prime example of this kind
of develop ment. Its 16 sq kms
EXPERIENCE Algarve golf courses, tennis courts, a
(6 sq miles) encompass four
riding school, fishing and
shooting facilities, and sports
complexes. There is even a
landing strip. Its many hotels
on the rise, and the already
12
well-established complex is
Albufeira and apartment blocks are still
still under construction.
EAT ! E7 £ @ n Rua 5 de The focal point is the large
marina, which bristles with
Outubro; 289 585 279
powerboats and is fronted by
Barquina Once a charming fishing town restaurants, cafés and shops.
What this local eatery Albufeira is now the tourist It makes a diverting excursion,
lacks in glamour, it capital of the Algarve. attracting many Portuguese
makes up for with Al-Buhar (The Castle on the visitors, including Lisbon’s jet
its fantastic Sea) was a prosperous town
seafood dishes. under the Moors, profiting
from trade with North Africa.
! F7 ⌂ Rua José Pires
Padinha 142, Tavira The Museu Arqueo lógico
§ 281 322 843 ¢ Wed houses a captivating collec-
tion of Stone Age, Roman and
¡¡¡
Moorish arti facts, with the
Islamic-era silo as its high-
Bon Bon light. Rua 5 de Outubro leads
Although it occupies an through a tunnel to the beach,
unassuming location, east of which is the Praia dos
chef Rui Silvestre Barcos where the fishermen
delivers delicately ply their trade. From Praia de
crafted cuisine at this São Rafael, 2 km (1 mile) west
ambitious Michelin- of Albufeira, to Praia da Oura
starred restaurant. due east, the area is punctu-
! E7 ⌂ Urb Cabeco de ated by small sandy coves set
Pias, Carvoeiro ¢ Tue & between eroded ochre rocks.
Wed; Mon, Thu & Fri L
∑ bonbon.pt Museu Arqueológico
¡¡¡ ⌂ Praca da Republica 1
§ 289 599 508 # 9:30am–
12:30pm, 1:30–5:30pm Tue,
Dois Irmãos
Founded in the 1920s, Sat & Sun, 9:30am–5:30pm
this attractive Wed–Fri (Jul & Aug: 2–10pm
restaurant serves Thu & Fri)
wonderful fish dishes
and has its own garden.
! E7 ⌂ Praça Ferreira de e
Almeida 15, Faro Vilamoura
∑ restaurante
doisirmaos.com ! E7 @ n Praça do Mar,
Quarteira; 289 389 209
¡¡¡
The coast between Faro and
Lagos has effectively become
a strip of villa com plexes and
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set. Due east is the crowded Lourenço. Commissioned by refusing to give up his faith.
Praia da Marina. The nearby local inhabitants in grati tude The story culminates in his
Roman ruins of Cerro da Vila, to St Laurence, who answered martyrdom. In the last panel
dating from the 1st century their desperate prayers for on the right, in which the saint
AD, incude a bath complex water, the church’s interior is is placed on a gridiron to be
and a house with mosaics a master piece of decoration burned, an angel comforts
depicting fish. in azulejo panels. him. The nave vault depicts
The copious blue-and-white the Coro nation of St Laurence,
Cerro da Vila tiles were probably designed and the cupola has decorative,
" ⌂ Avenida Cerro da Vila by master craftsmen in Lisbon trompe-l’oeil effects of excep-
§ 289 312 153 # May–Oct: and shipped down. They cover tional quality. The last tiles
10am–1pm, 4–9pm Tue–Sun; the cupola, the walls of the were put in place in 1730. The
Nov–Apr: 9:30am–12:30pm, chancel, nave and nave vault, altarpiece, dating from around
2–6pm Tue–Sun to stunning effect. The wall 1735, was the work of Manuel
panels depict episodes from Martins and was gilded by
the life of St Laurence; on one leading local painters.
r side of the altar the saint is
shown healing two blind men,
Almancil and on the other, giving money
to the poor. The nave arches
! E7 £ @ n Rua de Vale; show the saint conversing
289 400 860
with Pope Sixtus II;
East of the undistinguished arguing for his
town of Almancil lies one of Christian belief with
the Algarve’s gems, the 18th- the Roman Emperor
century Igreja Matriz de São Valerian; and
Azulejos on the interior
of Igreja Matriz de São
Lourenço (inset) in Almancil
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from the top of the bell tower particu larly on the ocean side.
of the parish church Nossa The islands are in the Parque
Senhora do Rosário, on Praça Natural da Ria Formosa (p335).
da Restauração, built between Centro de Educaçâo
1681 and 1698 with donations Ambiental de Marim, about
from the local fishermen. 3 km (2 miles) east of Olhão, is
These men were extremely an environmental education
devout because of the dangers centre. Its 60 ha (148 acres)
they faced at sea, particularly
of dune and pinewoods are
EXPERIENCE Algarve African pirates often sailed a tidal mill and a centre for
home to a restored farmhouse,
in summertime when North
injured birds, as well as
off the coast The custodian
lets visitors through the locked
exhibitions and aquariums.
door leading from the nave. At
Centro de Educaçâo
the rear of the church is the
The 17th-century
parish church in Olhão,
"'- ⌂ Quelfes § 289
Senhora dos Aflitos, where
women pray for their men’s
with its bell tower external chapel of Nossa Ambiental de Marim
700 210 # 9am–noon,
safety in stormy weather. 2–5pm Mon–Fri ¢ 1 Jan,
The narrow, pedestrianized 25 Dec
15 streets of the old town wind
down from here to the
Olhão waterfront, the scene of one
of the region’s most lively and 16
! E7 £ @ n Largo picturesque markets. The Loulé
Sebastião Martins Mestre
8A; 289 713 936 noisy, covered fish market sells ! E7 £ @ n Avenida 25
the morning’s catch, while on de Abril; 289 463 900
Olhão has been involved in Saturdays, outside stalls line
fishing since the Middle Ages, the quay, with local farmers Loulé is an attractive market
and today is one of the largest selling an array of seasonal town and thriving craft centre.
fishing ports and tuna- and produce, including fruit, nuts, Its Moorish origins are still
sardine- canning centres in honey and live chickens. visible in the bell tower of the
the Algarve. In 1808 the village At the eastern end of the church of São Clemente. The
was elevated to the status of quay, beyond the mar ket, castle, on the north side of
town after 17 of its fishermen boats take you out to the town, is also Moorish in origin,
crossed the Atlantic Ocean to islands of Armona (15 min), rebuilt in the 13th century.
Rio de Janeiro, without charts, Culatra (30 min) and Farol Remnants of the walls behind
to bring the exiled King João VI (45 min). These flat, narrow the castle afford fine views
the news that Napoleon’s bars of sand provide shelter over Loulé.
troops had been forced out to the town, and excellent The heart of the town lies
of the country. sandy beaches for visitors, immediately south of
Olhão’s square, whitewashed Praça da República
houses with their flat roof ter- and encompasses
races and box-like chimneys The pink domed the busy market.
are remini scent of Moorish building that houses On Saturdays,
archi tecture. The best view is Loulé’s indoor market the area is
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PICTURE PERFECT
Boat Trip
Departing from Faro
or Olhão, boat trips on
the Ria Formosa offer
plenty of opportunities
to snap photos of local
wildlife. The vessels
follow the marshy
waterways beside the
picturesque islands.
par ticularly lively when
gypsies run a simulta neous
outdoor market. From Rua 9
de Abril to the Igreja Matriz
you can watch handi craft
workers carving wood,
weaving hats, making lace,
deco rating horse tackle and
painting pottery and tiles.
The 13th-century church
of São Clemente, on Largo da
Silva, was badly damaged in
three earthquakes but its
triple nave, defined by Gothic A wooden boardwalk
arches, has been conserved. in the Parque Natural
There are two beautiful side da Ria Formosa
chapels dating from the early
16th century. The Capela de
Nossa Senhora da Consolação (37 miles) of coastline. It was
is decorated from floor to created in 1987 to protect TOP BIRDS IN
vault with superb blue-and- the ecosystem of the area, 5 RIA FORMOSA
white azulejo panels, while the which was under threat from
Capela de São Brás has a building, sand extraction and Purple Gallinule
Manueline arch and a blue- pollution, all by-products of A rarity, the gallinule is
and-gold Baroque altarpiece. the massive rise in tourism. the symbol of the park.
Another religious building The lagoon area of marshes,
of note is the chapel of Nossa saltpans, islets and channels Cattle Egret
Senhora da Conceição, close is sheltered from the open sea These birds feed on
to Praça da República. Here, by a chain of barrier islands – insects and flies off the
the Baroque altarpiece (1745) actually sand dunes. Inlets backs of cattle.
is complemented by scenes between the islands allow
in the ubiquitous blue-and- the tide to ebb and flow Red-Crested
white azulejos. into the lagoon. Pochard
These waters are rich in A brightly coloured
shellfish, such as oysters, duck originally from
Central Europe.
17 cockles and clams: bred here,
they make up 80 per cent of
Parque Natural da the nation’s mollusc exports. Purple Heron
Ria Formosa The fish life and warm climate This slender bird has a
attract many wildfowl and darker plumage than
! E7 n Centro de Educaçâo the more common
Ambiental de Marim, waders; snakes and chame- grey heron.
leons also live here. Apart
Quelfes @ East of Olhâo on
N125 g From Faro, Olhão, from fish and shellfish Kentish Plover
Tavira # 8am–8pm daily farming and salt-pan ning, all You’ll find this tiny
other human activities that white and brown bird
Stretching from Praia de Faro might encroach on the park’s on the shoreline.
to Cacela Velha (p338), this ecosystem are strictly
nature reserve follows 60 km controlled or forbidden.
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Pavement cafés in
the riverside town
of Tavira (inset)
DRINK
compromising either its
looks or its atmosphere.
The best view of the town is Columbus
from the walls of the Moorish Lounge Bar
castle in the old Arab quarter This fashionable bar,
18 on top of the hill. From here tucked into the arcades
the distinctive foursided
Tavira roofs of the houses that line of a former hospital, has
seats outside facing
Rua da Liberdade are clearly the pretty gardens.
! F7 £ @ n Praça da
República 5; 281 322 511 visible. These pyramidlike ! E7 ⌂ Praça Dom
roofs possibly evolved to Francisco Gomes
The pretty town of Tavira, full allow the sudden torrential 13, Faro
of historic churches and fine rain of the Algarve to run off § 917 776 222
mansions with filigree bal easily. From the castle walls,
conies, lies along both sides the nearby clock tower of Rei das Praias
of the Gilão river, linked by a the church of Santa Maria Sit back and relax while
bridge of Roman origin. This do Castelo also acts as a sipping a cocktail at this
was part of the coastal Roman landmark. The church itself beach restaurant on
road between Castro Marim occupies the site of what was stilts, with views of a
(p338) and Faro (p322). once the biggest mosque in lovely cove.
Tavira’s early ascendancy the Algarve. Its façade re tains
! E7 ⌂ Praia da
began with the Moors, who a Gothic doorway and win Caneiros, Ferragudo
saw it as one of their most dows, and its interior, restored
important settlements in the in the 19th century, houses § 282 461 006
Algarve, along with Silves and the tombs of Dom Paio Peres
Faro. It was conquered in 1242 Correia and his seven knights. Tavira Lounge
by Dom Paio Peres Correia, Santa Maria do Castelo and An arty lounge bar with
who was outraged at the mur Igreja da Misericórdia are a terrace offering fine
der of seven of his knights by the only two of Tavira’s 21 views of Tavira’s
the Moors during a truce. churches to be open out side picturesque river.
Tavira flourished until the service hours. Below the ! F7 ⌂ Rua Gonçalo
16th century, after which a castle is the 1569 convent of Velho 16–18, Tavira
slow decline set in, aggravated Nossa Senhora da Graça. § 281 381 034
by a severe plague (1645–6) Renaissance architecture
and the silting up of the was pioneered in the town by
harbour. The town now André Pilarte and can be seen
welcomes tourists, with out on the way up to the castle, in
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Perched on a hill, Alte is one of the prettiest Rococo spirit of the palace.
villages of the Algarve. The approach The lower terrace features a
from the east is the most picturesque, blue-and-white tiled pavilion,
inside which is a copy of
with sweeping views of rolling hills. Canova’s Three Graces. The
walled terrace above, the
Patamar da Casa do Presépio,
the Igreja da Misericórdia 20 has a large pavilion with
(1541–51), with its lovely door- stained-glass windows,
way topped by saints Peter Estoi fountains adorned with
and Paul, and in the nearby ! E7 @ n Faro; 289 803 nymphs and tiled niches.
Palácio da Galeria. The fascin- 604 A walk downhill from the
ating Núcleo Islâmico on other end of the main square
Praça da República show cases The quiet village of Estoi has leads to the second major sight
Moorish artifacts, including an two notable sights, separated in Estoi: the Roman ruins of
11th-century figurative vase. by a short distance and about Milreu, a complex that dates
Seeking some beach time? 1,800 years. Just off the main from the 1st or 2nd century
The sandy, offshore Ilha de square is the Pousada Palácio AD. The buildings probably
Tavira, provides ex cellent de Estoi, an unashamedly began as a large farmhouse,
swimming. A popular resort pretty Rococo pastiche. The which was converted in the
in summer, you can reach it palace was the brainchild 3rd century into a lux urious
by ferry from Quatro Águas. of a local noble man, who villa, built around a courtyard.
died soon after work was Well-preserved mosaics of
begun in the mid-1840s. fish and other marine crea tures
19 Another wealthy local later still adorn the walls and floor of
acquired the palace, and
the baths, located along side
Alte completed it in 1909. For the the living quarters; however,
vast amount of money and most portable archaeological
! E7 £ @ n Rua Condes de energy he expended on his finds from this complex are
Alte; 289 478 060
new home, he was made now housed in the Museu
Perched on a hill, Alte is one viscount of Estoi. The work Municipal in Faro (p322). The
of the prettiest villages of the was supervised by the archi- importance of the villa is
Algarve. The approach from tect Domingos da Silva Meira, indicated by the remains of a
the east is the most pictur- whose interest in sculpture is temple overlooking the site.
esque, with sweeping views evident everywhere. The palace
of rolling hills. The focus of underwent restora tion of its Milreu
this steep, white village is the interior, a feast of pastel and ⌂ N2-6 § 289 896 070
16th-century Nossa Senhora stucco, and is now a pousada, # May–Sep: 10am–1pm,
da Assunção, which has a but the gardens can be visited 2–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr:
Manueline door way and daily by non-guests. Dotted 9:30am–1pm, 2–5pm Tue–
baptismal fonts, and a fine with orange trees and palms, Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Easter Sun,
gilded altarpiece celeb rating they continue the joyful 1 May, 7 Sep, 25 Dec
the Assumption. The little
chapel of São Sebastião
boasts beautiful, rare 16th-
century Sevillian azulejos.
A short walk from the church,
and clearly marked, is the Alte,
river overhung with trees, and
a water source known as the
Fonte Grande. This leafy
setting is ideal for picnicking.
On the steep slopes, about
700 m (half a mile) from the
village, is a mill (now a restaur-
ant) and a 5-m- (16-ft-) high
waterfall, Queda do Vigário.
Grand Rococo-style
stairs at the Pousada
Palácio de Estoi
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EXPERIENCE Algarve
Cyclist on a cobbled
street in Vila Real de
Santo António
21 22 d
Vila Real de Santo Cacela Velha Castro Marim
António
! F7 n Monte Gordo, ! D7 @ n Rua de São
! F7 £ @ n Avenida Avenida Marginal; 281 Sebastião; 281 531 232
Marginal, Monte Gordo; 544 495
281 544 495 The Phoenicians, Greeks
This small coastal hamlet lies and Romans all made use
Built to a plan by the Marquês in the Parque Natural da Ria of Castro Marim’s comman-
de Pombal in 1774, Vila Real Formosa and grew primarily ding location above the Rio
de Santo António is a little like during the 17th century, when Guadiana. It was the gateway
a miniature version of Lisbon’s it formed part of the coastal to the Moorish Al-Gharb
Baixa (p74), rebuilt after the defensive system. Perching and for centuries it was a
1755 earthquake also under on a cliff overlooking the sea, sanctuary for fugitives from
the auspices of Pombal. The it is reached via a landscape the Inquisition. The castle
symmetrical grid of fairly wide of fields and olive trees. above the town is of Moorish
streets, and the equal-sized Cacela Velha has remained origin, the outlying walls a
blocks with similar façades, untouched by mass tourism 13th-century addition, and
all speak of Pombal’s practical and retains a peaceful atmos-
and political ideals (p45). phere. Charming blue-and-
Today, the town is one of white fishermen’s houses INSIDER TIP
the most important fishing cluster around the remains of Head to Spain
ports on the Algarve coast, an 18th-century fort (closed Take the 20-minute
as well as a border town, with to the public) and a white- ferry trip from Vila
its markets geared towards washed 18th-century church. Real de Santo António,
visiting Spaniards. The Igreja The beach is sheltered by a which crosses the Rio
Matriz is famous for its stained- long spit of sand, and fishing Guadiana, to Ayamonte
glass windows. The town’s boats are dotted about. The in Spain for lunch. Rem-
centre now seems too grand Phoenicians and Moors used ember to change your
for its size, all of which makes this protected site until it was watch – Spain is one
it an interesting place to taken over by the Knights of hour ahead of Portugal.
drop in on. Santiago in 1240.
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midway between Alcoutim
and its Spanish counterpart,
Did You Know? Sanlúcar de Guadiana, King
Fernando I of Portugal signed SHOP
The tipple of choice in the peace of Alcoutim with
the Algarve is a fruit Enrique II of Castile. By the late
brandy called 17th century, when its political Forum Algarve
Aguardente de importance had waned, the True to its name, Forum
Medronhos. town had acquired a new is set around a central
repu tation – for smug gling square with fountains.
tobacco and snuff from Spain. One of the region’s
Alcoutim today is a town of largest shopping
sits beside the 17th-century cobbled streets, small squares centres, it has around
Misericódia church. and a paved promenade along 100 stores, including
The town was also a centre the riverfront. A few cafés and major brands, as well as
for salt production, and the restaurants overlook the river, a large hypermarket.
surrounding salinas are now making them ideal spots from Open late every day.
home to the Reserva Natural which to watch boats floating ! E7 ⌂ EN125, Faro
do Sapal. Extending for 21 sq past. The nearby church ∑ forumalgarve.net
km (8 sq miles) south and originates from the 16th
east of town, this is an area century, but has been rebuilt. Mercado Municipal
of saltpans and marshes Over the porch are the arms of Olhão’s municipal
with a large variety of bird the marquises of Vila Real and market is the best in the
species including flamingos, counts of Alcoutim. The walls region. It is set in two
avocets and black-winged of the 14th-century castle give buildings – one for fresh
stilts, symbol of the reserve. an excellent view over the fish, the other for fruit
Individuals don’t need to small village and its idyllic and vegetables. The
book, but group tours should setting. The castle houses a market closes at 2pm on
book on 281 510 680. small archaeological museum weekdays and 3pm
exhibiting a collec tion of on Saturdays.
artifacts from the Iron Age. ! E7 ⌂ Avenida 5 de
f Alcoutim’s most unique Outubro, Olhão
visitor attraction is an exhil-
¢ Sun
Alcoutim arating cross-border zip line
(p31), set over the river that
! F7 @ n Rua 1° de Maio; divides Spain and Portugal.
281 546 179
The tiny, gem-like, unspoilt
village of Alcoutim lies 15 km
(9 miles) from the bor der with
the Alentejo, and on the natural
border with Spain, the Rio
Guadiana. The drive there
along the N122-2, a rough,
winding road which sometimes
runs alongside the Guadiana,
provides stunning views of the
country side and across the
river to Sanlúcar in Spain.
The size of Alcoutim belies
its history. As a strategic
location and river port, it was
seized on by the Phoenicians,
Greeks, Romans and, of course,
the Moors, who stayed until the
reconquest in 1240. Here, in
1371, on flower-decked boats
Inside the castle housing
the Archaeological
Museum of Alcoutim
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PORTUGAL’S
ISLANDS
Madeira .................................................. 348
The Azores .......................................... 364
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Bottlenose dolphins swimming near the island of Madeira
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EXPLORE Ortigueira
PORTUGAL’S Santiago de
Ortigueira
Compostela
Santiago de
ISLANDS Pontevedra Compostela
SPAIN
SPAIN
Vigo
Pontevedra
Vigo
Braga
This section divides Portugal’s Islands into two colour-coded Porto Braga Vila Real
sightseeing areas, as shown on the map below. Find out Porto Vila Real
more about each area on the following pages. Aveiro Viseu
Aveiro
A tl antic PORTUGAL Coimbra Viseu
Oc ean
Corvo A tl antic PORTUGAL Coimbra
Corvo Oc ean
Flores Graciosa Santarém
Flores Faial Graciosa Terceira Lisbon Santarém
Terceira Lisbon
Faial São Jorge Setúbal Évora
Pico
São Jorge São Miguel Setúbal Évora
Pico
THE AZORES São Miguel Huelva
p364
THE AZORES Santa Maria Huelva
p364
Santa Maria Faro
Faro
MADEIRA Rabat
p348
MADEIRA Casablanca Rabat
Madeira p348 Casablanca
Porto Santo El-Jadida Settat
Madeira
Porto Santo El-Jadida Settat
Ilhas Safi
Desertas
Ilhas Safi
Desertas
Essaouira
Marrakech
Essaouira Marrakech
Ouarzazate
Tamri Taroudannt
Ouarzazate
Tamri
Taroudannt
MOROCCO
Canar y Isl ands Lanzarote Tiznit MOROCCO
La
Palma Canar y Isl ands Lanzarote Tiznit
La
Palma Tenerife Fuerteventura
La
0 kilometres 200 N Gomera Tenerife Fuerteventura ALGERIA
La Gran
0 kilometres
0 miles 200 200 N Gomera Canaria ALGERIA
Gran
0 miles 200 Canaria
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Ortigueira
Ortigueira
Santiago de
Compostela
Santiago de
Compostela
Pontevedra SPAIN
Vigo
Pontevedra SPAIN
Vigo
Braga
Braga Vila Real
Porto
Vila Real
Porto
Aveiro Viseu
A tl antic PORTUGAL Aveiro Coimbra Viseu
Oc ean
Corvo A tl antic PORTUGAL Coimbra
Corvo Oc ean
Flores Graciosa Santarém
Flores Faial Graciosa Terceira Lisbon Santarém
Terceira Lisbon
Faial São Jorge Setúbal Évora
Pico
São Jorge São Miguel Setúbal Évora
Pico
THE AZORES São Miguel Huelva
p364
THE AZORES Santa Maria Huelva
p364
Santa Maria Faro
Faro
MADEIRA Rabat
p348
MADEIRA Casablanca Rabat
Madeira p348 Casablanca
Porto Santo El-Jadida Settat
Madeira
Porto Santo El-Jadida Settat
Ilhas Safi
Desertas
Ilhas Safi
Desertas
Essaouira
Marrakech
Essaouira Marrakech
Ouarzazate
Tamri Taroudannt
Ouarzazate
Tamri
Taroudannt
MOROCCO
Canar y Isl ands Lanzarote Tiznit MOROCCO
La
Palma Canar y Isl ands Lanzarote Tiznit
La
Palma Tenerife Fuerteventura
La
0 kilometres 200 N Gomera Tenerife Fuerteventura ALGERIA
La Gran
0 kilometres
0 miles 200 200 N Gomera Canaria ALGERIA
Gran
0 miles 200 Canaria
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GETTING TO KNOW
PORTUGAL’S
ISLANDS
EXPERIENCE Portugal’s Islands Once remote maritime outposts, today Madeira and the Azores are easily
accessible by air. Madeira, lying 600 km (375 miles) off the African coast,
offers a beguiling blend of Portuguese culture and semitropical exoticness.
Further west, the Azorean archipelago, spread over 650 km (400 miles),
is close to the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. The balmy climate and recently active
volcanoes have created an alluring mix of lush valleys and collapsed craters.
MADEIRA Best for
Year-round warm weather
PAGE 348 Madeira’s handsome historical capital, Funchal, is often and alluring scenery
called “Little Lisbon” because of its resemblance to the
Home to
Portuguese capital. The rest of the island, however, has
a completely different character to the Portuguese Funchal
Experience
mainland. Much of its mountainous interior is covered The infamous Monte Toboggan, a
in lauraceous forests so ancient that they have been hair-raising 2-km (1-mile) descent
awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. The network in a wicker basket on runners
of irrigation canals called levadas attracts keen walkers
to this compact island, while the surrounding seas
draws watersports enthusiasts, and those hoping to
spot whales and dolphins.
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THE AZORES Best for
Getting away from it all
PAGE 364 With few beaches, a capricious climate and no Home to
large-scale resorts, the Azores has escaped mass
São Miguel
tourism. Come here to explore green mountains
decked with blue hydrangeas, swim in waters Experience
brimming with marine creatures and relax in quiet The majesty of some of the
ocean’s largest creatures aboard
ports where the pace of life is refreshingly civil and a whale-watching trip from
unhurried. The largest settlements are São Miguel’s either Faial, Pico, Graciosa,
Ponta Delgada – the regional capital – and the Terceira or São Miguel
charming, historic town of Angra do Heroísmo on
Terceira. But to get firmly off-grid, where better than
Pico, a towering 2,350-m (7,700-ft) volcanic peak.
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EXPERIENCE Portugal’s Islands From whale-watching trips to walking along 2
1
volcanic craters, the Azores is packed with
things to see and do. Here we select some of
the highlights to help you plan a week’s stay.
7 DAYS
In the Azores 3
Day 1
at O Miroma (p373). After eating your fill,
Morning Explore Ponta Delgada, the head to bed at the luxurious Terra Nostra
capital of São Miguel (p368). Start off Garden Hotel (p375).
at the Portas da Cidade, the iconic city
gate in the main square, then walk along Day 3
the harbour front, with its outdoor cafés
and ocean views. Morning In the northwest of the island
Afternoon The greenhouses of Arruda is the Lagoa das Sete Cidades (p368),
Açore Pineapple Plantation are found the legendary twin blue and green
3 km (2 miles) from the city centre. Take lakes that fill a dormant volcanic crater.
the tour, and be sure to buy some of the Walk along the path that traverses the
fruit, then return to Ponte Delgada for circumference of the crater, pausing at
a reasonably priced steak dinner at the Miradouro da Vista do Rei to admire
Alcides (p373). the view of the lakes below.
Afternoon Hire a bike to explore the
stunning scenery around the small village
Day 2 of Sete Cidades, which sits in the crater.
Its Neo-Gothic church is well worth a visit.
Morning Spend the day chilling out. Head
east to the spa resort of Furnas, famed
for its geothermal activity (p369). Bathing Day 4
in natural hot springs and indulging in
modern spa treatments makes for a Morning Take a flight to the island of
relaxing start to the day. Terceira and visit Angra do Heroísmo, the
Afternoon The beautiful Parque Terra island’s historic and strikingly unspoilt
Nostra has some wonderful warm capital (p370). The top of Monte Brasil,
swimming pools for an afternoon dip. Be which overlooks the harbour, is our
sure to order cozido das Furnas for dinner choice for the perfect picnic spot.
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5
1 The Portas da Cidade gate in
Ponta Delgada at dusk.
2 Lagoa das Sete Cidades.
3 Angra do Heroísmo harbour.
4 Orcas off the Azores.
5 The cloud-shrouded peak of
4 Pico, seen in the distance.
Afternoon Curated with considerable do Pico, which runs whale-watching trips
flair and imagination, the Museu de Angra in summer: there’s a good chance you’ll
do Heroísmo traces Terceira’s evolution see some of the 28 species of cetaceans
from its 13th-century discovery to 19th- that pass through these waters.
century industrialization. Spend the Afternoon Back on dry land, the Museu
afternoon here learning about the island. dos Baleeiros charts the fascinating
history of whaling in the Azores. Spend
Day 5 the night at Aldeia da Fonte, a small, eco-
friendly resort with its own sea pool (p375).
Morning Hire a car to explore the volcanic
interior of Terceira. Visit the Caldeira de Day 7
Guilherme Moniz, a massive crater with
impressive lava caves and crystal-clear Morning Return to São Miguel and spend
springs, and the Algar do Carvão, an your last morning visiting the Museu
ancient volcanic vent. A little further Carlos Machado in Ponta Delgada to
north, roam the island’s protected learn about Azorean island life.
laurel forests on foot. Afternoon Fly to the mainland, or home,
Afternoon Head north to Biscoitos and from São Miguel, feeling satisfied that
learn about wine production at the Museu you’ve experienced the highlights of
do Vinho dos Biscoitos, stopping off for a these spectacular islands.
swim at one of the nearby sea pools.
Day 6
Morning Fly to Pico, whose volcanic peak
is the highest point in Portugal (p373).
Make your way to the tiny town of Lajes
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Boats at anchor in Câmara de Lobos’ harbour
MADEIRA
Madeira is a mere dot in the Atlantic Ocean, 600 km
(375 miles) from Morocco and nearly 1,000 km
(620 miles) from Lisbon. Despite this, Madeira and
Porto Santo, its sister island, appear on a Genoese
map of 1351. They remained unclaimed, however,
until 1418, when João Gonçalves Zarco was blown
out into the Atlantic by violent storms while
exploring the coast of Africa. Zarco found safe
harbour in Porto Santo, returning on a voyage of
discovery sponsored by Henry the Navigator. Early
in 1420, after a winter on Porto Santo, he set sail
for the mist-shrouded land on the horizon. He
found a beautiful, thickly wooded island (madeira
means wood), with abundant fresh water. Within
seven years, the island had attracted a pioneer
colony and the early settlers exploited the fertile
soil and warm climate to grow sugar cane. The
islanders grew rich on this, and slaves were
brought in to work the land and create the
terraced fields and irrigation channels (levadas)
that still cling to the steep hillsides to this day.
Despite the gradients, Madeirans make use
of every spare patch of land – growing bananas,
flowers and grapes – although tourism is the main
industry. The island’s Laurisilva, or laurel forest, is
a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
349
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PORTO SANTOPORTO SANTO
Ilhéu da FonteIlhéu da Fonte Ilhéu Ilhéu
da Areia da Areia das Cenourasdas Cenouras
A tl anticA tl antic Camacha Camacha Serra de DentroSerra de Dentro
Ponta Ponta
Farrobo Farrobo
PORTO MONIZ
PORTO MONIZ Oc eanOc ean do Varadourodo Varadouro Serra de Serra de Ponta
Ponta
Fora
Fora
Ponta do Ponta do Porto SantoPorto Santo dos Ferreirosdos Ferreiros
Tristão Tristão Tanque Tanque
Santa Santa Lamaceiros Lamaceiros Campo de CimaCampo de Cima Vila Vila Ponta da GaléPonta da Galé
Ilhéu Ilhéu Baleira Baleira
Ribeira da Janela
Achadas Achadas Ribeira da Janela de Ferro de Ferro Ilhéu Ilhéu
da Cruz da Cruz Ponta de Ponta de de Cima de Cima
São Jorge São Jorge Cabeço da PontaCabeço da Ponta
ZimbralinhoZimbralinho
São Jorge São Jorge Ponta Ponta
Ponta Delgada
Ponta Delgada Ponta de Santana
Ponta de Santana
Seixal Seixal Ponta Ponta
Ribeira da Vaca
Ribeira da Vaca Achada da Cruz da Calheta da Calheta
Achada da Cruz
Ribeira Ribeira
Boaventura Boaventura Funda Funda
Ponta do Ponta do Ilhéu de BaixoIlhéu de Baixo
SANTANA
Senhora Senhora
Pargo Pargo Fanal Fanal Ilha Ilha SANTANA ou da Cal ou da Cal
SÃO VICENTE
do Amparo do Amparo Ribeira da Janela 1320m Montado dos Montado dos SÃO VICENTE Achada Achada Funchal Funchal
75 km (46 miles)75 km (46 miles)
Lameiros Lameiros
Cabeço da Roseira
Cabeço da Roseira Remal Remal Pessegueiros Pessegueiros Ginjas Ginjas Achada Achada do Marques do Marques Faial Faial
1320m
Queimadas Queimadas
Ribeira da Janela
Fajã da Ovelha
Fajã da Ovelha Pico Ruivo Pico Ruivo da Madeira da Madeira Pico CanárioPico Canário
do Paúl
do Paúl
1640m 1640m 1592m 1592m Porto da Cruzto da Cruz
Por
Ponta do Ponta do Boca da Boca da Achada do Achada do
PAÚL DA SERRA Bica da Bica da 1007m PICO RUIVOPICO RUIVO Referta Referta Maiata
Pesqueiro Pesqueiro RaposeiraRaposeira EncumeadaEncumeada Casado Teixeira Teixeira CruzinhasCruzinhas Ponta do Ponta do
Casado
PAÚL DA SERRA
Espigão Amareloão Amarelo
Espig
1725m
1725m
1007m
Maiata
Paúl do Mar Paúl do Mar Prazeres Prazeres Cana Cana Pico da CoroaPico da Coroa Ponta de Ponta de
1620m
1620m
738m
738m
São Lourenço São Lourenço
1851m
1851m
Fajã dos Fajã dos
Chã da Quebrada
Lombo Lombo Pico GrandePico Grande Pico das TorresPico das Torres Balcöes Portela Portela
Balcöes
Cardos
Jardim do Mar dos Reis dos Reis Chã da Quebrada 1657m 1657m Cardos 860m 860m Ribeira Ribeira Maroços Maroços CANIÇAL CANIÇAL Ilhéu Ilhéu
Jardim do Mar
Prainha Prainha
RIBEIRORIBEIRO
Lombo das Tercas Lombo das Tercas DAS FREIRAS MACHICO MACHICO
Ribeira Seca Ribeira Seca
PICO DOPICO DO
Serr
CALHETA Serra de Águaa de Água ARIEIROARIEIRO FRIO FRIO de Machico de Machico Santo António da Cevadada Cevada Ilhéu
CALHETA
Ilhéu
Santo António
do Farol do Farol
CURRAL CURRAL
da Serra da Serra
DAS FREIRAS
Passo de Poiso
Água de Pena
Arco da Calheta
Arco da Calheta Lombo do Mouro Lombo do Mouro Esteios Esteios Passo de Poiso João Ferino João Ferino Água de Pena
1400m
1400m
Madalena Madalena Jardim Jardim 1346m 1346m ChoupanaChoupana Terça Terça
do Mar do Mar da Serra da Serra Pico Alto Pico Alto Águas Águas Cristiano RonaldoCristiano Ronaldo Porto SantoPorto Santo
Canhas Canhas Lugar Lugar Mansas Mansas InternationalInternational 75 km (46 miles)75 km (46 miles)
Candelária Candelária da Serra da Serra 1129m 1129m
MONTEMONTE Santa Cruz Santa Cruz
Ponta do Sol São João São João CAMACHACAMACHA
Ponta do Sol
Tabúa Tabúa Campanário Campanário Santo Santo Gaula Gaula
RIBEIRA BRAVA
São João São João
A tl anticA tl antic RIBEIRA BRAVA Quinta Grande António António de Latrão de Latrão QUINTA DOQUINTA DO
Quinta Grande
PALHEIRO FERREIROPALHEIRO FERREIRO
São
São
Oc eanOc ean CÂMARA DE Gonçalo Gonçalo Caniço Caniço
CÂMARA DE
São
São
LOBOS LOBOS Martinho Martinho FUNCHALFUNCHAL Caniço de Baixo
Caniço de Baixo
Garajau Garajau
Ponta da Oliveira
Ponta da Oliveira
MADEIRA
Must See 9 Pico do Arieiro
1 Funchal 0 Pico Ruivo
q Paúl de Serra
Experience More w Curral das Freiras
2 Monte e São Vicente MADEIRAMADEIRA
3 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro r Porto Moniz
4 Camacha t Calheta
5 Machico y Ribeira Brava
6 Caniçal u Câmara de Lobos
7 Santana i Porto Santo
8 Ribeiro Frio 0 kilometres0 kilometres 5 5 N N
0 miles 0 miles 5 5
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and
comprehensive maps for exploring Portugal.
Take a leisurely walking tour of Lisbon, island-hop around the Azores, become a connoisseur of the country's
port or relax on Madeira's golden beaches: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-
coded chapters. Discover the best of Portugal with this indispensable travel guide.
Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Portugal:
- Over 35 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Portugal, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of Sintra's Pena Palace, the UNESCO World Heritage site of
Alcobaça and Lisbon's Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
- Colour photographs of vibrant cities, beautiful beaches and islands, churches and castles, pretty town
centres and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Lisbon - Alfama, Baixa and Avenida, Bairro Alto and Estrela,
Belém and further afield - the Lisbon Coast, Estremadura and Ribatejo, the Beiras, Douro and Trás-os- Montes, Minho, Alentejo, the Algarve, Madeira and the Azores
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about Portugal's history, way of life, architecture, ceramic Azulejos tiles, traditional food and drink, festivals and events, and more
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases, and transport, visa and health information
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Portugal is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from
your visit to Portugal.
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