(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Estonia Latvia & Lithuania

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL







ESTONIA, LATVIA
& LITHUANIA



EYEWITNESS TRAVEL






ESTONIA, LATVIA

& LITHUANIA

Contents

How to Use
this Guide 6
Managing Editor Aruna Ghose
Design Managers Sunita Gahir, Priyanka Thakur
Project Editor Alka Thakur Introducing
Project Designer Rajnish Kashyap
Editors Jyoti Kumari, Ipshita Nandi Estonia, Latvia
Designers Namrata Adhwaryu, Anchal Kaushal
Senior Cartographic Manager Uma Bhattacharya and Lithuania
Cartographers Mohammad Hassan, Jasneet Kaur
Senior Picture Researcher Taiyaba Khatoon
Picture Researcher Sumita Khatwani
Assistant Picture Researcher Shweta Andrews
Senior Dtp Designer Vinod Harish
Dtp Designer Azeem Siddiqui
Contributors
Howard Jarvis, John Oates, Tim Ochser, Neil Taylor
Photographers
Demetrio Carrasco, Nigel Hicks, Linda Whitwam Door knocker, Tallinn
Illustrators
Chinglemba Chingtham, Sanjeev Kumar, Surat Kumar Mantoo, Arun Pottirayil, Suman Saha, Discovering Estonia,
Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner, Chapel Design & Marketing Ltd
Latvia and Lithuania 10
Printed and bound in China
First American Edition, 2009 Putting Estonia, Latvia
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 and Lithunia
Published in the United States by on the Map 18
DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2011, 2013, 2015, 2017 A Portrait of Estonia,
Copyright © 2009, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company Latvia and Lithuania 20
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above,
no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into The Climate of Estonia,
a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written Latvia and Lithuania 32
permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. The History of Estonia,
ISSN 1542-1554 Latvia and Lithuania 34
ISBN 978-1-4654-6033-2








The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
St Nicholas’s Orthodox Cathedral in Karosta,
Front cover main image: The colourful rooftops of Rīga in Latvia near Liepāja, Latvia
Striking onion domes of St Nicholas’s Orthodox Cathedral, Latvia


004-005_ContUS.indd 4 15/02/17 10:12 am

Estonia Region by
Region
Estonia at
a Glance 46
A Portrait of Estonia 48

Estonia Through Picturesque Island Castle at Trakai, Lithuania
the Year 52
Lithuania Region Entertainment 344
The History of Estonia 54 by Region
Outdoor Activities and
Tallinn 58 Lithuania Specialist Holidays 356
at a Glance 206
Western Estonia 88
A Portrait of
Eastern Estonia 106 Lithuania 208
Lithuania Through
the Year 212
The History of
Lithuania 214 Amber jewellery, sold in souvenir shops all
over the Baltic region
Vilnius 220
Survival Guide
Central Lithuania 252
Practical Information 364
Western Lithuania 272
Statue of King Gustav Adolphus of Sweden,
Tartu, Estonia Travellers’ Needs Travel Information 376
Latvia Region Where to Stay 292 General Index 394
by Region
Where to Eat and
Latvia at Drink 308 Acknowledgments 408
a Glance 130
Shopping 332 Phrase Book 411
A Portrait of
Latvia 132
Latvia Through
the Year 136
The History of Latvia 138

Rīga 142
Western Latvia 166

Eastern Latvia 186
The spectacular Vilnius Cathedral, Lithuania




004-005_ContUS.indd 5 15/02/17 10:12 am

6 HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most from a history and descriptions of important
visit to the Baltic States, providing detailed sights using visuals and maps. Information
prac tical information and expert recom- about hotels, restau rants, shops and
mendations. Introducing Estonia, Latvia and markets, entertainment and sports is
Lithuania maps the three countries, sets them found in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival
in their histori cal and cultural context, and Guide has tips on everything from
describes events throughout the year. Each making a telephone call to using
country has its own chapter, with a portrait, local transport.



Putting Estonia, Latvia and
18 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA PUT TING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA ON THE M AP 19
Helsinki,
St Petersburg
Mariehamn, Sillamäe
Putting Estonia, Latvia and Stockholm Jõhvi Narva Chudovo Lithuania on the Map
Lithuania on the Map Kapellskar Tallinn Tapa Rakvere
Luga
With Estonia in the north, Latvia in the centre and Lithuania in Paldiski Slantsy
the south, the Baltic States lie on the southeastern shore of The orientation map shows the
the Baltic Sea. The region is bordered in the east by Russia and Vormsi Riisipere Veliky Novgorod
in the south by Poland, Belarus and the Russian enclave of Kärdla Island Paide Lak e Plyussa
Kaliningrad. The Baltic States’ total land area is 173,000 sq km Haapsalu Peipsi Zapolye location of the Baltic States in
(66,778 sq miles). Latvia and Lithuania are of roughly equal Hiiumaa Strugi Krasnye Shimsk
Island
size, while Estonia is about a third smaller and has a relatively Muhu Lihula ESTONIA
flat terrain in comparison to the other two countries. The Island Tartu
Viljandi
three capital cities – Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius – are home Lake relation to their neighbouring
to around a third of the region’s 6.3 million people. Saaremaa Pärnu Vortsjärv
Island Porkhov
Kuressaare RUSSIA
Kihnu Pskov countries. In this book, each
Island Otepää Võru
Dedovichi
Gulf of R ī ga Valga
Chikhachevo country is divided into three main
Valmiera Ostrov
Stockholm Alūksne
Bezhanitsy
Cape Kolka Smiltene
Cēsis Pytalovo sightseeing areas that are covered
Gulbene
Ventspils
Talsi Gauja
Sigulda LA TVIA
Opochka in a full chapter. These areas are
Nynashamn, Ērgli Velikiye Luki
Travemunde Tukums Jūrmala Rīga
Sabile Ogre Ludza Pustoshka
Kuldīga
Key Jelgava Daugava Rēzekne highlighted on other maps
Motorway Baltic Pāvilosta Jēkabpils
Saldus Dobele
Major road Sea Preiļi Nevel
Minor road Liepāja throughout the book.
Railway line Joniškis Biržai
International border
Mažeikiai Krāslava
Rokiškis Daugavpils BELARUS
Travemunde Telšiai Šiauliai
Europe
Palanga
Plungė Panevėžys
Utena
Karlshamn, Gargždai SWEDEN FINLAND
Kiel Klaipėda LITHUANIA
Raseiniai Ukmergė Molėtai NORWAY
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 50 Šilutė ESTONIA
Curonian Nemunas RUSSIA
Spit Tauragė Jonava Nor th LATVIA
Sea
Nynäshamn Kaišiadorys DENMARK LITHUANIA
Jurbarkas
Kaunas Vilnius UNITED A locator map shows the
KINGDOM BELARUS
NETH. POLAND
GERMANY
Kaliningrad Vilkaviškis BELGIUM CZECH UKRAINE
REPUBLIC country in relation to other
Marijampolė SLOVAKIA
KALININGRAD Alytus FRANCE SWITZ. AUSTRIA HUNGARY MOLDOVA
Lebork (RUSSIA) CROATIA ROMANIA European countries.
Varėna SERBIA
Gdańsk Lazdijai Nemunas ITALY BULGARIA
Elblag POLAND SPAIN
Druskininkai Lida
For keys to symbols see back flap
Estonia, Latvia and
Lithuania Region
LA
by Region Introduction LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION 187T VIA REGION B Y REGION 187
EA
1 The landscape, history EASTERN LATVIASTERN LATVIA
Each country has been and character of each T The eastern part of Latvia includes some of the country’s most he eastern part of Latvia includes some of the country’s most
popular attractions, both natural and man-made, as well as actions, both natural and man-made, as well as
popular attr
rar
divided into three regions region are described rarely visited rural districts. Although far from mountainous, ely visited rural districts. Although far from mountainous,
the terrain is not as flat here as in the west and there are two errain is not as flat here as in the west and there are two
the t
ex
extensive upland areas dotted with myriad lakes. Some of tensive upland areas dotted with myriad lakes. Some of
these ha
with a map at the start of here, including an these have well-developed tourist facilities, while others ve well-developed tourist facilities, while others
remain isolated and untouched.emain isolated and untouched.
r
best
the section. The key to the account of how they When the Ger best-known writers and musicians. Today -known writers and musicians. Today
When the German crusaders arrived, man crusaders arrived,
V
they f
they found the Livs and Lettgallians ound the Livs and Lettgallians
Vidzeme is second only to Rīga as a idzeme is second only to Rīga as a
travel destination, with the Gauja vel destination, with the Gauja
tra
inhabiting the region which now forms egion which now forms
inhabiting the r
V
National Park com bining natural beauty ark com bining natural beauty
symbols is on the back flap. have changed over the Vidzeme, while Latgallians and Selians idzeme, while Latgallians and Selians National P
lived further east in what is now Latgale. ed further east in what is now Latgale.
liv
and his torical attractions.torical attractions.
and his
The Bishop of R
The Bishop of Rīga took control of the īga took control of the
Latgale, on the other hand, was ruled Latgale, on the other hand, was ruled

west and east of Vidzeme, while central est and east of Vidzeme, while central by P by Poland until 1772. The Polish oland until 1772. The Polish
w
centuries and what Vidzeme and most of Latgale was idzeme and most of Latgale was influence fostered a strong Catholic ostered a strong Catholic
influence f
V
tradition, particularly evident in the ticularly evident in the
tradition, par
claimed by the Liv
claimed by the Livonian Order. After the onian Order. After the
collapse of the Liv pilg pilgrimage centre of Aglona. Latgale was rimage centre of Aglona. Latgale was
collapse of the Livonian Order in 1561 onian Order in 1561
they have to offer to the whole of the east f later absorbed directly into the Russian er absorbed directly into the Russian
the whole of the east fell under ell under
lat
Lithuanian, and later Polish, rule.er Polish, rule.
Lithuanian, and lat
Empir
Empire, unlike other Latvian regions e, unlike other Latvian regions
The end of the Polish-Swedish Wars in The end of the Polish-Swedish Wars in which were ruled as separate provinces. ere ruled as separate provinces.
which w
the visitor today. 1629 sa This isolation from the rest of the country om the rest of the country
1629 saw Sweden ruling both Estonia w Sweden ruling both Estonia
This isolation fr
means that it has long been neglec
means that it has long been neglected ted
and Vidzeme. The Russians conquered Vidzeme. The Russians conquered
and
as a predo minantly Russian backwater. edo minantly Russian backwater.
Vidzeme in 1721. Reliant economically idzeme in 1721. Reliant economically as a pr
V
on ag
on agriculture, forestry and wood riculture, forestry and wood D Despite this, its villages and serene lakes espite this, its villages and serene lakes
Sights at a Glance lists the 188 LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION pr processing, the region is sometimes ocessing, the region is sometimes EASTERN LA T VIA 189
charm visitors and the regional capital, m visitors and the regional capital,
char
Daugavpils, is slowly shaking off its vpils, is slowly shaking off its
claimed as the cradle of Lat
claimed as the cradle of Latvian culture vian culture Dauga
image as a grey Soviet throwback.rey Soviet throwback.
chapter’s sights by cate gory, such as it pr image as a g
as it produced many of the country’s oduced many of the country’s
Exploring Eastern Latvia
Getting Around
The highlights of Gauja National Park are easily reached
by bus or train from Rīga, while even small towns in
as Churches and Cathedrals, The most popular tourist attraction in Eastern Latvia is Gauja Vidzeme usually have at least one bus a day. Rīga and
National Park, which combines beautiful forests with attractions
such as the historic town of Cēsis and the restored Turaida Castle. Daugavpils are well connected by buses and trains
that run several times a day. The public transport
Towns, Resorts and Villages and A significant part of the region is covered by the North Vidzeme network elsewhere in Latgale is not well developed
Biosphere Reserve, famous for its coastal meadows, sandstone Unguriņi and it is easier to use a private vehicle, particularly
Islands and National Parks. cliffs and extensive wetlands. The route from Rīga to when exploring the lakes. Bus services link all the
towns, but services are not very frequent.
Daugavpils, the regional capital, runs along the
Daugava Valley and includes several worthwhile MAZSALACA Pedele Tartu
stops, while the cathedral at Aglona is a major AINAŽI Valka
centre for Catholic pilgrimage. For most visitors, Salaca Staicele Burtnieks Lake Rencēni Turna S eda Pskov
though, the main attraction in Latgale is its Zabolova
patchwork of lakes, which includes Rāzna and SALACGRĪVA Drieliņi Vilzēni Vijciems
Lubāns, the two largest in the country. V i d z e m e Gauja Gaujiena Lāzbergi
Alsviķi
ALŪKSNE
Abuls
Vireši
VALMIERA
Liepna
Sights at a Glance LIMBAŽI Umurga Smiltene Palsa Gauja Jaunanna Kuprava
Towns, Resorts and Villages o Rēzekne Jelgavkrasti Mālumuiža GULBENE– Viļaka
ALŪKSNE
RAILWAY
Kubuli
Old houses and t
2 Valmiera a Ludza DUNTE Vidriži Ūdrupe Old houses and tower in Cēsis, a town steeped in historyower in Cēsis, a town steeped in history Balvi
s Vecpiebalga
PARK
3 Ainaži d Alūksne Skulte Cēsis Rauna
Pededze
Balupe
Gulbene
4 Salacgrīva Gauja GAUJA NATIONAL Turaida Castle among the trees of Gauja National Parkuraida Castle among the trees of Gauja National Park Čilipīne
Inciems
T
Medņi
5 Mazsalaca Sights of Interest SAULKRASTI Taurene Gauja Tirza
6 Limbaži 9 Ikšķile Baltinava
Regional Map 7 Dunte w Koknese Gauja Vangaži Sigulda Skujene Lake VECPIEBALGA Ostrov
8 Saulkrasti
f Gulbene–Alūksne
0 Lielvārde Railway Nītaure Inesis Ogre Lautere Lubāna Bērzpils Grebņeva
2 This map shows the q Skrīveri National Park Ķīšezers Ropaži Mergupe Mālpils Līčupe Ērgļi Madona Kuja Lake Iča Žogotas Goliševa
e Jēkabpils
r Līvāni 1 Gauja National Park Rīga Ķeipene Lubāns
t Daugavpils pp200–1 pp190–93 Bērzaune Lazdona Zaļmežnieki Dricāni Aizpūre
road network and gives y Krāslava Tour IKŠĶILE Ogre Irši Lake Malta L Cirma Lake
u Aglona
i Preiļi p Latgale Lakes p202 LIELVĀRDE Odzes Grozas LUDZA Istalsna
an overview of the Daugava SKRĪVERI KOKNESE Aiviekste Atašiene Viļāni Rēzekne AT G A L E LAKE S RĒZEKNE Ņukši Brigi
Kūkas
Troškas Čornaja
Taurkaene JĒKABPILS Lake Rudzīši
topography of the entire Piksteres Lake Birži Nagļi Riebiņi Malta Rāzna
Viesīte Daugava LĪVĀNI L a t g a l e Puša Čerņavski
PREIĻI Ežezers Lake
region. All the sights are Ērberğe Zalve Viesīte Jersika Dubna Aglonas Rušons Bērziņi
Stacija
Slate AGLONA Kapiņi Dagda
numbered and there are Nereta Aknīste Dviete Kalupe Špoği Asūne
Subate Lociki KRĀSLAVA
also useful tips on getting Svente Daugava Piedruja
Key DAUGAVPILS
around by car, bus and train. Motorway Demene Silene
Main road
Secondary road
Utena
Minor road 0 kilometres 20
Railway
0 miles 20
Sandstone cliffs on the banks of the Salaca river, Vidzeme International border
For hotels and restaurants see pp302–303 and pp324–5 For keys to symbols see back flap

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE 7


234 LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION VILNIUS 235
Street-by-Street: Town Hall Šv Kazimiero
Street
Square to the Gates of Dawn A narrow
Street-by-Street Map Lithuania’s distinctive Baroque architecture, known as Vilnius cobblestone street
named after St
Baroque, can be admired in the outstanding monuments Casimir snakes
around the back of
3 This gives a bird’s-eye clustered around the Gates of Dawn and the Church of St the church towards
Užupis, with its
Casimir. The enchanting collection of towers and sculptures
was created during the 17th and 18th centuries by Italian and jumble of roofs. Locator Map
view of interesting and Polish architects and their Polish-Lithuanian noble patrons. f. Church of St Casimir See Street Finder Map pp250–51
The buildings are elegantly designed with symmetrical
façades, reflecting an unmistakable Italian influence.
museum of atheism from 1963
Nonetheless, the mystical atmosphere, so unique to Vilnius, This church was the city’s Church of the
important parts of each distinguishes the area from any other European city. to 1991. The crown symbolizes Holy Spirit
St Casimir’s royal lineage.
sightseeing area. The j . Church of St Theresa
numbering of the sights S U B A Č I A U S G A T V Ė Scenes from the life of St Theresa, revered
for her mystical writings, adorn the
vaulted nave of the church. The
frescoes were pain ted in the late
ties in with the area map D I D Ž I O J I G A T V Ė M D A U K Š O S G A T V Ė 18th century following a fire.
s Town Hall
and the fuller description With a bold Classical portico, the Town Hall A U Š R O S V A R T Ų G A T V Ė
was designed by the renowned Lithuanian
architect Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius.
of the entries on the pages
that follow.
V O K I E Č I Ų G A T V Ė R Ū D N I N K ų G A T V Ė A R K L I ų G A T V Ė B A Z I L I J O N Ų G A T V Ė
A suggested route takes in some of Key Suggested route Basilian Gate
the fascinating and attractive streets in
is a Soviet-era venue for
the area. Vokiečių Street d Contemporary Art Centre
groundbreaking modern art.
One of the city’s
oldest, Vokiečių Street
resembles a park
during the summer k. Gates of Dawn
months, with its Basilian Monastery A site of pilgrimage, this gateway
outdoor cafés and a 0 metres 100 The now dilapidated monastery complex was used as a to the Old Town pro tects a silver-
plea sant central tree- 0 yards 100 prison to hold anti-Russian activists, including the poet covered painting of the Virgin Mary,
lined walkway. Adam Mickiewicz, in the 1820s. said to have miraculous powers.
For hotels and restaurants see pp304–305 and pp326–8
Numbers refer to each
sight’s position on the Coloured tabs refer to the
area map and its place in regions. The same tab is used
the chapter. for pages relating to a Stars indicate the sights that no
particular region. visitor should miss.
Detailed Information
92 EST ONIA REGION B Y REGION WESTERN EST ONIA 93
4 All the major cities, towns and
1 Paldiski On the east coast, the Tchaikovsky in Haapsalu
promenade is another fine
Road Map C1. * 4,000. £ legacy of the town’s imperial Russian composer Pyotr Ilyich
@ 145 from Tallinn. ∑ paldiski.ee
glory days. From Africa Beach Tchaikovsky and his brothers tourist attractions are described
Deriving its name from the the promenade winds its way Anatoly and Modest spent the
Estonian pronunciation of past the spa hall at Kuursaal and summer of 1867 in Haapsalu. Living
baltiyskiy, which means “Baltic” leads to the Museum of Coastal in a small house on Suur-Mere individually. They are listed in an
in Russian, Paldiski was Swedes, which traces the worked on The Voyevoda, his first
Street, the 27-year-old Pyotr
established by Peter the Great in history of the Swedes. opera and one of his major compo-
1718. Paldiski was known to be sitions. Tchaikovsky Bench on the
of strategic impor tance for the E Museum of Coastal Swedes promenade commem orates his order that follows the numbering
Russian Empire. In 1962, when Sadama 31/32. Tel 473 7165. stay and, at the press of a button,
the Soviet Navy nuclear sub- Open 11am–4pm Tue–Sat. & blares out a part of the Sixth
marine training centre was set ∑ aiboland.ee Symphony, thought to have been Tchaikovsky Bench on the
up here, the area already had Haapsalu’s medieval castle, with an adjoining cathedral inspired by an Estonian folk song. promenade in Haapsalu on the area map at the start
two nuclear reactors and
employed some 16,000 people. Environs 2 Haapsalu
The Soviets finally withdrew in Pakri, a stunning peninsula Road Map C2. * 12,000. @ from the island and its beautiful 4 Matsalu National
1994 and the town quickly fell 3 km (2 miles) west of Paldiski, Tallinn. g from Hiiumaa, Vormsi. landscapes make it perfect for Park of the section.
into chronic disrepair. The boasts Estonia’s tallest light- n Karja 15, 473 3248. _ Early Music hiking and cycling. The island Matsalu rahvuspark
Swedish director Lukas house. Also here are the ruins of Festival (4–8 Jul), White Lady Days is well known for its lush
Moodysson shot his Peter the Great’s ambitious but (Aug). ∑ haapsalu.ee pine forests and an abundance Road Map C2. n Matsalu Nature
extraordinarily bleak film unfinished fortress project. of juniper bushes, as well as Centre, Penijõe Manor; 472 4236.
Lilya-4-Ever (2002) in Paldiski, Situated on a small spit of land spectacular stretches of Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm
though it was described as an jutting out into a narrow bay, rocky coastline. Sat & Sun. 8 ∑ matsalu.ee
unnamed “former republic of the popular resort town of Some people believe that
the Soviet Union” in the film. Haapsalu dates back to the 13th Vormsi means “Snakes Island”, as Situated around the narrow
Located 52 km (32 miles) century. Its impressive Bishop’s the name derives from the old Matsalu Bay, Matsalu National
west of Tallinn, Paldiski is a Castle ruins still serve as the Swedish word for snake. Others, Park was founded in 1957 as a
fascinating place to visit main focal point for the town, however, claim that it was sanctuary for nesting and
and it attracts a steady stream despite the fact that its named after a pirate called Orm. migratory birds. The area is a
of tourists. The countless formidable fortifica tions were Picturesque houses in one of the villages on Either way, Vormsi Island was bird-watcher’s paradise, with
derelict military buildings largely dismantled by Peter the Vormsi Island home to some 2,000 Swedes some 275 species found in its
testify to the prominent role Great in the 18th century. The prior to World War II, and their coastal wetlands. Six obser-
Paldiski once played in the castle watchtower houses the 3 Vormsi Island influence can be seen all over vation towers dotted along the
Soviet defence system. Today, Castle Museum, displaying Road Map C1. * 350. @ from the island. coast offer the chance to see
how ever, the town is slowly medieval weaponry. The Haapsalu. g from Rohuküla, 10 km The island’s main settlement the fauna and birdlife up
but surely being revitalized. adjoining Dome Cathedral is (6 miles) W of Haapsalu. ∑ vormsi.ee is Hullo, 3 km (2 miles) west of close. Viewing platforms
The port area is booming and the largest single-nave church the ferry port at Sviby. The overlook some of the islets
Paldiski’s natural beauty makes in the Baltic region. Estonia’s fourth-largest island, 14th-century St Olav’s Church and coastal meadows. Most
it an attractive site for The red-painted lighthouse at Pakri, Over the course of the 19th Vormsi is only 10 km (6 miles) by is especially worth visiting for its of the observation towers are
residential development. near Paldiski century, Haapsalu became a 20 km (12 miles) in size. The Baroque pulpit and a cemetery reached by car or bus,
fashionable holiday resort, island is ruggedly beautiful and with a striking collection of although Penijõe tower, on the
Estonia’s Swedish Community famed for its curative mud blissfully unspoiled despite circular Swedish crosses bank of the Penijõe river, is a
short walk from the Matsalu
looming out of hand-made
being only 3 km (2 miles)
treatments and pretty beaches.
Swedish settlers in Estonia were first mentioned in 1294 in Haapsalu’s Its landmark 216-m (709-ft) long from the mainland. The size of mounds of grass. Nature Centre.
town records. It is generally thought that Swedes settled along train platform is an enduring The visitors’ checklist gives all the
the western coastal areas in the 13th and 14th centuries to secure monument to the era when
trade routes. From 1561 to 1700 Estonia was directly under Swedish Russian royalty and high society
rule. By the early 20th century, there were some 8,000 Swedish- flocked to the town every practical information needed to
speaking Estonians, most of summer. The platform was built
whom lived on Vormsi Island and in 1904 to receive Tsar Nicholas
in the Haapsalu region. The II and his entourage, and its
Estonian-Swedes were a ornate wooden canopy was plan your visit.
recognized minority with their designed to protect them from
own periodical and distinct bad weather. The station closed
cultural identity. How ever, the
majority of them fled to Sweden in 1995 and the building now
during World War II. It is estimated houses the Estonian Railway
that some 2,000 Estonian-Swedes Museum with models of
remained behind, but life in the engines used between the late
Soviet Union soon effaced their 19th and early 20th centuries.
Swedish circular crosses in St Olav’s way of life and they effectively Paralepa Beach, just to the 228 LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION VILNIUS 229
Church cemetery, Hullo west of the station, is Haapsalu’s
disappeared as a minority.
most popular bath ing spot. The Matsalu Bay islet, part of the idyllic Matsalu National Park
For hotels and restaurants see pp297–8 and pp316–18 8 Vilnius Cathedral High Altar VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The marvellously
Vilniaus arkikatedra bazilika intricate tabernacle door Practical Information
on the High Altar, which
Having taken various guises since it was first built as a was created in the 1620s, Katedros aikšė 1. Map 2 D3.
Christian church on the site of a pagan temple in 1251, Vilnius is fashioned from gold Tel 85261 0731. Open 7am–7pm
daily. 8 guided tour mandatory
Cathedral today largely dates from the late 18th century. and silver. Two biblical to visit the crypt. Enquire at the
The young architect, Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius, brought scenes, the Last Supper souvenir shop at the cathedral’s
and Christ Washing the
the fashionable French Classicist style to Baroque Vilnius, his Disciples’ Feet, are northern entrance for timings
idea for the cathedral exterior and interior being a visual beautifully depicted on and prices. =
re-creation of a Greek temple. Vilnius Cathedral was closed by the panel.
Story boxes provide the Soviets in 1950 and initially mooted for use as a garage Valavičius Chapel
for truck repairs. In 1956, however, it opened as a picture
information about his- gallery. It was eventually returned to the Catholic Church in Members of the Valavičius family
were governors and bishops of
1989 and reconsecrated a year before
Vilnius. Their lavish chapel was
independence was declared.
created in the early 17th century.
torical or cultural topics
relating to the sights.
Stucco Sculpture . St Casimir’s Chapel
A sculpture depicting a
Practical information provides bird sacrifice can be Italian masters created this
seen on the
superb chapel, one of the major
tympanum of Baroque jewels of Vilnius, from
everything you need to know to visit the façade. 1623 to 1636. Its main highlights
are the marble columns,
magnificent stucco figures and
each sight. Map references pinpoint colourful frescoes.
the sight’s location on the road map
on the inside back cover. For the three St Casimir (1458–84)
Casimir was the second
son of a Grand Duke,
capital cities, map references relate to The entrance is whose siblings became
kings and queens of
via a huge
European states
the Street Finder maps. Classical portico. through lineage and
marriage. Pious Casimir
shunned the luxuries of
court life and would
often go to the cathedral to
pray. When he died of
tuberculosis aged 25, it was
Wall Painting of the rumoured that his coffin
Crucifixion could cure disease. A fresco
The oldest surviving fresco Statue of Luke, the Evangelist . Crypt in St Casimir’s Chapel shows
in Lithuania, dating from Of the statues of the Four A sombre mausoleum holds the remains of two how a sick orphan, who
the 14th century, can be Evangelists on the southern façade, Grand Dukes and two wives of Sigismund prayed beneath the coffin, Richly decorated altar of
found in the crypt. It was Luke appears with a bull, which is a Augustus (r.1548–72), the last descendant of was miraculously cured. St Casimir’s Chapel
discovered in 1925. symbol of service and sacrifice. Gediminas (r.1316–41).
For hotels and restaurants see pp304–305 and pp326–8
Major Sights
5 Historic buildings are dissected to
reveal their interiors.



INTRODUCING

ESTONIA, LATVIA


AND LITHUANIA






Discovering Estonia, Latvia
and Lithuania 10–17
Putting Estonia, Latvia and
Lithuania on the Map 18–19
A Portrait of Estonia, Latvia
and Lithuania 20–31
Climate of Estonia, Latvia
and Lithuania 32–33
The History of Estonia, Latvia
and Lithuania 34–43

10 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA

DISCOVERING ESTONIA,
LATVIA AND LITHUANIA

The following itineraries have been begins with a two-day tour of the country’s
designed to take in as many of the Baltic distinctive and characterful capital city,
States’ highlights as possible, covering the followed by 12 days exploring the rest of
beautiful and diverse landscapes of each the country. Pick, combine and follow your
country, while keeping long-distance travel favourite tours, or simply dip in and out
to a minimum. Each of the three itineraries and be inspired.








Tallinn

Kärdla
Kõpu
Haapsalu
Hiiumaa Island
Sõru
Muhu Island
Angla
Saaremaa Island
Vilsandi Kaali Meteor Pärnu
National Park Crater
Kõpu Lighthouse, Estonia
Kuressaare
One of the world’s oldest functioning lighthouses, this
beacon, built in 1531 and reinforced in the 1980s, shines Sõrve
Peninsula
from the western end of ruggedly beautiful Hiiumaa Island.
Gulf
0 kilometres 80 of Riga
Ventspils
0 miles 80
Sigulda
Riga
Pavilosta
Jaunpils
Castle
14 Days in Estonia
Jelgava
Liepāja
• Admire the meticulously
Rundāle
restored buildings of Palace
Tallinn’s Old Town.
• Visit the historic windmills, Hill of Crosses
Palanga
thatched barns and inns Šiauliai
at the Estonian Open- Klaipėda
Air Museum.
Curonian Spit
National Park LITHUANIA
• Relish the unspoiled nature
on sparsely populated Nida
Hiiumaa Island.
• Marvel at a meteor’s impact
Kaunas
at the Kaali Crater on Pažaislis Monastery
Saaremaa Island. Rumšiškes
Trakai
• Spend a day boating on Island
Castle
Lake Võrtsjärv.
• Don a hard hat and head
Key
deep under the ground at
the Kohtla Underground 14 Days in Estonia
Mining Museum. 14 Days in Latvia Druskininkai
14 Days in Lithuania
A View of Tallinn with Hattorpe Tower by Alexander Georg Schlater (1834–79)

DISC OVERING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 11


14 Days in Latvia

• Immerse yourself in the • Look out for bears
warren of narrow streets and elk in Gauja
in Rīga’s Old Town. National Park.
• Appreciate the • Explore the picturesque
marvellous Art Nouveau waters of the Latgale
architecture of Rīga’s Lakes region.
Quiet Centre. • Visit the stunning
• Relax on the windswept 18th-century Rundāle
beaches of Latvia’s Palace, one of the finest
western coast. in the Baltic States.


Lahemaa
National Park
Ontika Rīga’s Art Nouveau Architecture, Latvia
Coast Sillamäe The Quiet Centre in Rīga has the finest
Palmse
Narva collection of Art Nouveau buildings in
Kohtla Underground Europe, including this elaborate edifice
Mining Museum
designed by Mikhail Eisenstein in 1905.
ESTONIA Mustvee
Raja
Lake
Peipsi
14 Days in Lithuania
Tartu
Rannu
• Lose yourself in the
Lake
Võrtsjärv Kiidjärve- labyrinthine streets of
Taevaskoja Area
Vilnius’s Old Town.
• Investigate the quirky cafés
and galleries of Vilnius’s
artists’ republic of Užupis.
• Step back in time at Trakai
Cēsis
Island Castle and then drift
Līgatne past it in a pedalo.
• Enjoy a day of being pamper-
ed and pummelled in the
LATVIA Lake
Lubāns spa resort of Druskininkai.
Ludza
• Discover unspoilt nature at
Rēzekne Aukštaitija National Park.
Jēkabpils
• Stand atop the shifting
Lake
Aglona sands of the Curonian
Ežezers
Spit’s giant dunes.
Daugavpils
Aukštaitija
National Park
Ignalina
Vilnius
Trakai Island Castle, Lithuania
During the 15th century, this cas tle
was the impenetrable strong hold of
the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Today
its pictur esque reconstruction is the
coun try’s biggest tourist draw.

12 INTRODUCING EST ONIA


largest island. Sparsely populated
14 Days in Estonia
Hiiumaa (pp94–5) is a delight
for nature lovers with its pine
• Airports Arrive and depart
forests and deserted beaches.
from Tallinn Airport. The small town of Kärdla makes
• Transport This tour can be a good base from which to
made using Estonia’s bus explore the island. Be sure to
and rail network, but head to Kõpu, where you can
hiring a car would allow visit one of the world’s oldest
more flexibility. functioning lighthouses.
To extend your trip…
Day 1 Tallinn Spend an extra day on
Morning The best starting Hiiumaa Island visiting
point for a first visit to Tallinn is Suuremõisa Manor and
the picturesque Old Town the tiny island of Kassari
where a visit to the Tallinn City (pp94–5).
Museum (p67) provides a
fascinating overview of the Viru Gate, marking the entrance to Tallinn’s
city’s history. Wander down Old Town Day 5 Saaremaa Island
bustling Viru Street, past the The picturesque Saaremaa
colourful façades of historic northeast of Tallinn to see the Island (pp96–9) can be reached
buildings towards the impressive lovely Botanical Gardens (p84). by a short ferry trip from Sõru
Gothic Town Hall (p64). Take a lift up to the TV Tower’s on the southern tip of Hiiumaa
Niguliste Church (p66), another viewing platform (p84) for Island. Visit the iconic five
Gothic masterpiece, is nearby. unbeatable city views. wooden windmills of Angla
(p98) close to the port of Leisi,
Afternoon The fortified walls of Day 3 Haapsalu and stop by the tiny Karja
Toompea (pp72–3) enclose a Dominated by the imposing Church (p99) to admire its
warren of intriguing buildings ruins of its 13th-century castle, elaborate stone carvings, then
dating back to the 13th century. Haapsalu (p92) is a pleasant travel west along the coast to
Pay a visit to Toompea Castle seaside resort. Worthwhile the unspoiled Vilsandi
(p74), now home to Estonia’s attractions include the Castle National Park (p99).
Parliament, and the impressive Museum in the ruins’
Russian Orthodox Alexander watchtower, the attached Day 6 Kuressaare on
Nevsky Cathedral (p74). Don’t Dome Cathedral and the Saaremaa Island
miss the splendid views over Estonian Railway Museum Spend a pleasant day in and
the Old Town and out to the where the town’s grand 216 m around Kuressaare (p98),
harbour from Patkuli Viewing (708 ft) railway platform, built to Saaremaa’s attractive main
Platform (p73). receive Tsar Nicholas II in 1904, town. The spectacular Bishop’s
has been preserved. Castle, dating back to the
Day 2 Tallinn 14th century, is a must-see as is
Morning Enjoy a stroll through Day 4 Hiiumaa Island the main street of delightful old
Kadriorg Park (pp78–9), Tallinn’s From the port of Rohuküla, 9 km buildings. For an afternoon
most popular green space. The (6 miles) east of Haapsalu, take excursion, either travel down
park was originally laid out for the ferry to Estonia’s second the Sõrve Peninsula (p96) to
Peter the Great with his grand
summer residence, Kadriorg
Palace (p80), at its heart. Pop
into Peter the Great House
Museum (p81), a tiny cottage
where the Tsar lived while the
palace was being built, and allow
time for a visit to the Estonian
Art Museum’s main collection,
housed within the futuristic
Kumu Art Museum (p80).
Afternoon Choose to either
visit the Estonian Open-Air
Museum (p85) with its
remarkable collection of
historic rural buildings from
all over Estonia, or head to the The well-preserved medieval Bishop’s Castle in Kuressaare on Saaremaa Island
For practical information on travelling around Estonia, see pp376–81

DISC OVERING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 13


Saaremaa’s magnificent wind-
swept southern tip, or visit the
intriguing Kaali Meteor Crater
(p98), 15 km (9 miles) to the
northeast of town.
Day 7 Pärnu
Return to the mainland via
Muhu Island and head for
Pärnu (pp102–103), Estonia’s
summer capital and most
popular seaside resort.
Attractions include a lovely
7 km (4 mile) sandy beach,
historic Old Town buildings
and several peaceful parks.
Boulders along the coastline of Käsmu peninsula in Lahemaa National Park
Day 8 Tartu
There’s plenty to see in Estonia’s picturesque Kiidjärve- constructed during the Soviet
vibrant college town, Tartu Taevaskoja Recreational Area era along with a uranium mine
(pp118–21), home to the is a wonderful spot for picnics (closed in 1991), for the Soviet
venerable Tartu University and hiking. It’s home to nuclear programme. Today its
and around 20,000 students. Kiidjärve Watermill (p126) and ornate Stalinist-era buildings are
The 14th-century St John’s the stunning Taevaskoja an intriguing sight.
Church has a fascinating interior Sandstone Cliffs (p126), which
containing terracotta figures and tower over the Ahja river. Day 13 Along the north coast
the Tartu Art Museum houses The limestone cliffs of the
a fine collec tion of Estonian art Day 10 Lake Võrtsjärv Ontika Coast (p115), just west
in a leaning building. The KGB For a day of boating, sun- of Sillamäe, are a magnificent
Cells Museum sheds a grim bathing and swimming, head sight and well worth visiting for
light on the activities of the west to Lake Võrtsjärv (p122), the views across the Gulf of
Soviet agency and the suffering Estonia’s second-largest lake. Finland alone. Spend the
of many Estonians under the Stop at the visitor centre in afternoon at the Kohtla
regime. Toomemägi (Cathedral Rannu to organize boat hire or Underground Mining
Hill) (pp120–21) features pretty book a tour of the lake aboard Museum (p115) for a fascinating
historic buildings amidst a historic wooden sailing guided tour deep within the oil-
parkland and a warren of boat (kalepurjekas). shale mine before continuing to
narrow streets. Palmse within Lahemaa
Day 11 North to Narva National Park (pp110–14).
From Tartu, travel north to the
historic border town of Narva Day 14 Lahemaa National
(p116), breaking the three-hour Park
journey on the shores of Lake The grand manor houses at
Peipsi (p127), which straddles Palmse (p112) and Sagadi
the border with Russia. At over (p113) both provide an intrigu-
3,500 sq km (1,350 sq miles), it’s ing glimpse of 18th-century
Europe’s fifth largest lake. Aim aristocratic life. From Palmse
for lakeshore villages Mustvee consider a trip to the tiny
and Raja (p127), where Old coastal village of Võsu (p112)
Believers still follow traditional or head to pretty Käsmu
ways of life. Mustvee’s small village (p112). If time allows
museum offers an illuminating visit the fishing village of Altja
glimpse into the history and (p113) to see its traditional
daily lives of the community. thatched-roof houses before
returning to Tallinn.
Day 12 Narva and Sillamäe
The renovated medieval cathedral, now a The sheer-sided castle, the To extend your trip…
library, in the Toomemägi area, Tartu museum in the castle’s tall white Spend a day hiking or hire a
tower and the neighbouring bicycle to tour the Käsmu
Day 9 Kiidjärve-Taevaskoja riverside park are the highlights peninsula (p114), explor ing
Recreational Area of the border city of Narva (see the striking outcrop of giant
In the Põlva region, 50 km p116), where 96 per cent of the boulders and historic
(31 miles) south of Tartu and population speaks Russian. Käsmu village (p112).
perfect for a day trip, the Nearby Sillamäe (p115) was

14 INTRODUCING LA T VIA


14 Days in Latvia

• Airports Arrive and depart
from Rīga Airport.
• Transport This tour can be
made using Latvia’s bus and
rail network, but hiring a car
would allow more flexibility.

Day 1 Rīga
Morning Start the day with a
visit to the Old Town, Rīga’s
ancient heart. The city lost
many of its splendid historic The wonderfully reconstructed buildings of Town Hall Square, Rīga
buildings during World War II,
but a large number have been contem porary historical historic buildings and sculpture
meticulously restored in recent perspective head for the nearby park at Turaida Museum
years. The area around Town Museum of the Barricades of Reserve (p192) are also worth
Hall Square (see pp150–51) is 1991 (p146), which documents visiting and are just a few
dominated by the mighty the Latvian people’s overthrow kilometres from Sigulda.
St Peter’s Church (p153), of Communist rule.
and many of the area’s other Day 4 Gauja National Park –
magnificent buildings, including Day 2 Rīga Līgatne and Cēsis
Mentzendorff House (p152) Morning Choose either to From Sigulda, travel northeast
and the Town Hall, have explore the UNESCO-listed Art to Līgatne and the Līgatne
been returned to their former Nouveau architecture of Rīga’s Education and Recreation
glory. The immense Soviet- Quiet Centre (pp156–7) or Centre (p193). This delightful
era Modernist slab of concrete travel to Dauderi (p160), the wooded nature park is home
which normally houses the stately Neo-Gothic mansion to brown bears, beavers, elk,
Museum of the Occupation once used as the presidential lynx and European bison and
of Latvia (p152), currently summer residence, and now can be explored either on foot
closed for renovation, is housing a rather eclectic or by car. Continue northeast
generally considered an eyesore. museum on local history. to lovely Cēsis (p192), one of
Neighbouring Mežaparks Latvia’s oldest towns, where
Afternoon After lunching at (p160) is a residential district the narrow streets are lined
one of the Old Town’s many of lovely Modernist and Art with 18th and 19th-century
outdoor restaurants, enter the Nouveau homes popular with wooden and stone houses.
cool interior of the 13th-century well-to-do Latvians.
Dome Cathedral (p146), the To extend your trip…
largest place of worship in the Afternoon Don’t miss the Rent a canoe and spend a
Baltics, before continuing to the Latvian Ethnographic Open- day or two paddling along
Museum of Rīga’s History and Air Museum (p163), a vast the Gauja river. You can
Navigation (p146) at the rear of expanse of woodland on the arrange boat hire and
the cathedral. For a more shores of Lake Jugla dotted with transport through a river-trip
thatched homesteads, churches, specialist (p359 and p361).
windmills and other traditional
structures from all over the coun-
try – they provide a wonderful Day 5 On to Ventspils
insight into Latvia’s rural history. Head back to Rīga before
continuing west to the historic
Day 3 Gauja National Park – coastal town of Ventspils
Around Sigulda (pp180–81), where pleasant
Sigulda (p192) lies 50 km cafés, parks and a white sandy
(31 miles) northeast of Rīga and beach await.
makes a great base for explor-
ing the forested wilderness of Day 6 Ventspils
Gauja National Park (pp190– Despite its long heritage as a
93). Named after the river that trading centre and member of
wends its way through the the Hanseatic League, Ventspils
park’s sandstone hills, it’s a was little more than a tanker
Ventspils Castle, a 14th-century Livonian wonderful place to hike and the port for much of the Soviet era
Order stronghold in the resort of Ventspils trails are very well marked. The and has only recently become
For practical information on travelling around Latvia, see pp382–7

DISC OVERING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 15


the country’s most popular Day 9 Jelgava
seaside destination. The 13th- From Liepāja, take the highway
century Ventspils Castle is northeast and branch off to
one of the main attractions, Jelgava (p170), pausing along
along with the town’s attractive the way to admire the turreted
Russian and Lutheran churches, Jaunpils Castle (p174), an
and the lovely Blue Flag beach. impressive 14th-century affair
The Seaside Open-Air with a small museum and its
Museum, with its fishermen’s own hotel (p301). Despite losing
cottages, smoke houses and much of its architectural heri-
even a narrow-gauge railway, tage during World War I and
is also worth a visit. World War II, Jelgava still has a
number of attractions. Chief
Day 7 Pavilosta among them are the elegant
Reached by a windswept 18th-century Jelgava Palace
coastal road from Ventspils that and the Orthodox Cathedral
affords the occasional glimpse of St Simeon and St Anna in The ruins of Rēzekne Castle in Rēzekne, the
of the sea, Pavilosta (p183) is a the Old Town. centre of the Latgale region
remarkably laid-back port town
with a splendid marina and Day 10 Rundāle Palace Fortress is definitely worth
miles of pristine sandy beaches Head to stunning Rundāle exploring, particularly as the
popular with wind and kite Palace (pp172–3), a Baroque Mark Rothko Art Centre is
surfers throughout the summer. building with Rococo interiors now housed in its arsenal.
that is one of the finest palaces
To extend your trip… in the Baltics. It’s an easy day- Day 12 Aglona
Exper ience life on the waves trip from Jelgava, or stop there Moving on from Daugavpils,
by joining a fishing trip or in the morning before driving head northeast to Rēzekne
taking a sailing lesson at on to Daugavpils, four hours (p199) stopping at Aglona
Pavilosta Marina (see p183). away. To get to Daugavpils from (p199) along the way. While
Jelgava by public transport, Aglona itself is unremarkable,
you’ll need to travel via Rīga. it’s home to the towering
Day 8 Liepāja Aglona Basilica; as Latvia’s
The coastal road continues Day 11 Daugavpils most important Catholic
through woodland towards Located in Latvia’s southeastern shrine, it attracts worshippers
Liepāja (pp184–5), Latvia’s vibrant corner, Daugavpils (pp200–201) from all across Russia and the
third city. With both cul tural is the country’s second largest Baltic States.
attractions and a fantastic stretch city. It was founded by Ivan
of beach, there’s plenty to the Terrible in the 16th century Day 13 Rēzekne and the
engage visitors here. The main and, with 90 per cent of the Latgale Lakes
street, Lielā iela, is dominated by popula tion speaking Russian, it Having been pulverized to
the 18th-century Holy Trinity retains a distinctly Russian feel. rubble during World War II,
Church, which has superb Among its attractions is the Rēzekne has few buildings of
views from its tower. To the onion-domed Cathedral of historic interest, but it makes a
southwest the well-tended Saints Boris and Glebe, Latvia’s good base for explor ing the
Seaside Park runs parallel to largest Russian Orthodox cathe- more than 80 bodies of water
the town’s Blue Flag beach. dral. The exten sive Daugavpils that make up the picturesque
Latgale Lakes (p202). Lake
Lubāns, the largest, is great for
bird-watching and fishing.
Southeast of Rēzekne, Lake
Ežezers is considered one of
the most beautiful, with many
islands to explore by boat. To
the east of Rēzekne, the pretty
town of Ludza (p203), with its
many wooden houses, sits
between two lakes.
Day 14 Rēzekne to Rīga
Break the four-hour journey
back to Rīga at Jēkabpils (p198),
where a fine Orthodox church
and an open-air ethnographic
Picturesque Jaunpils Castle, built in the 14th-century and subsequently reconstructed museum are the main sights.

16 INTRODUCING LITHU ANIA


Afternoon Explore the many
14 Days in Lithuania
grand buildings and court-
yards that comprise Vilnius
• Airports Arrive and depart
University (p226) before
from Vilnius Airport. strolling along Pilies Street.
• Transport This tour can be Lined with historic churches
made using Lithuania’s bus and houses, the street is the Old
and rail network, but hiring a Town’s main thoroughfare. Look
car would allow you much out for St John’s Church (p226)
more flexibility. and the Church of St Paraskeva
(p227) before reaching the grand
Church of St Casimir (p236),
Day 1 Vilnius Old Town Vilnius’s oldest Baroque church.
Morning The characterful Exit the Old Town through the
buildings and winding streets Gates of Dawn (p239), pausing
of Vilnius’s marvellous Old Town to view the miracle-working
have changed little in the past icon, The Madonna of Mercy,
several hundred years. Though within its chapel, which attracts The Town Hall in Kaunas, known locally as
the city was founded in the pilgrims from all over Lithuania the White Swan
11th century, much of Vilnius’s and Poland.
current architectural heritage Day 3 Trakai Island Castle
dates back to the late 18th Day 2 Vilnius Lying just 25 km (16 miles)
century, when a series of fires Morning The Old Town boasts west of Vilnius, Trakai Island
consumed many of its wooden a number of excellent muse- Castle (pp256–7) is an easy
structures and stone houses ums, including two that cover day-trip from Vilnius but can
were built to replace them. tragic events in moving detail: also make an enjoyable
A tour of the Old Town should the KGB Museum (p242) reveals overnight stop. Occupying one
start with its centre piece – the the Soviet reign of terror and of Lake Galvė’s many islands,
stunning, temple-like Vilnius includes the basement pri son the heavily fortified medieval
Cathedral (pp228–9), which cells of the KGB build ing; and castle is Lithuania’s best-known
stands on the site of an early the Holocaust Museum (p242) monument and once rivalled
pagan shrine. Behind is the covers life in the Jewish Vilnius for power. In summer
Royal Palace, part of the Lower ghettoes and the horror that yachts and peddle boats are
Castle (p230), home to Lithu- befell the com munity during available for hire.
ania’s Grand Dukes for four World War II.
centuries. The original Renais- Day 4 Kaunas
sance palace was demolished in Afternoon Either visit the self- With its well-preserved Old
1801; the existing building is a declared artists’ republic of Town, leafy parks and laid-
recon struc tion opened in 2009. Užupis (p244), a fascinating back pavement cafés, Kaunas
Perched on a hill above is the last quarter of cafés and indepen- (pp262–5) makes for an
remain ing tower of the Upper dent galleries, or head west to enjoyable stay. Old Town
Castle (p230), with fantastic the pleasant Žvėrynas district highlights include the pretty
views of the city. The Lithuanian (p245), with its wooden villas, 16th-century Old Town Hall
National Museum’s (p230) lovely park and wonderful (p262), the ruins of Kaunas
absorbing collection is a short views from the nearby TV Castle (p262) and the Gothic
walk from the Upper Castle. Tower (p245). Cathedral of Sts Peter and
Paul (p263). To learn more
about the city’s past, visit
the Vytautus the Great
War Museum (p264). The
nearby Devils Museum
(p264) is worth seeing for its
quirky collection of sculptures
and carvings of devils and
witches from all around
the world.
Day 5 Around Kaunas
An easy day-trip from Kaunas,
the Baroque Pažaislis
Monastery (p265), founded in
the 17th century, can be visited
on the way to the Rumšiškės
The remains of Vilnius’s Upper Castle, including the symbolic western tower on the right Open-Air Museum (p265), a
For practical information on travelling around Lithuania, see pp388–93

DISC OVERING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 17


symbol of political will, having
been dismantled by the Soviet’s
numerous times, as it is an
outpouring of deep religious
faith.
Day 10 Palanga
From Šiauliai , head west to
the coastal town of Palanga
(p286) and spend a peaceful
after noon on the sandy beach
before joining locals and
tourists on the pier to watch
the sunset.
Day 11 Klaipėda
Lithuania’s only seaport,
Klaipėda (see pp284–5) is a
Tranquil lake fringed by thick forest and marshy shores, Aukštaitija National Park popular spot with an atmos-
pheric Old Town and a vibrant
wonderful collection of To extend your trip… nightlife scene. Pay a visit to the
traditional buildings from Hire a rowing boat at Palušė Clock Museum to marvel at its
around the country that have and follow the circular water intriguing collection of time-
been meticulously reassembled trail around the lakes. pieces from all over the world
in picturesque surroundings. and consider a visit to the
Picture Gallery and the large
Day 6 Druskininkai Day 9 Šiauliai sculpture park just behind.
Travel south to Druskininkai Head 240 km (150 miles) west
(p259) and spend the rest of the to Šiauliai (pp276–7), historic Day 12 Curonian Spit
day relaxing in this tranquil spa site of the Battle of the Sun in Accessible by ferry from
resort where numerous spa 1236, which saw the defeat of Klaipėda to Smiltynė , the
centres offer massage, mud the Livonian Order at the hands Curonian Spit (pp288–9) is
baths, beauty treatments and of the pagan Samogitians. one of Lithuania’s most
mineral water cures. Today it’s a thriving modern remarkable natural sights.
city with a well-preserved Old No more than 4 km (2 miles)
To extend your trip… Town and numerous museums, wide at any point and as
Spend a day hiking or but it’s probably best-known narrow as 400 m (440 yards)
cycling along well-marked for the incredible Hill of in places, it’s a slender sliver
paths in the forests Crosses (see p277), just a little of land made up of sand dunes,
surrounding Druskininkai. ways north at Jurgaičių. The beaches and woods that
small hill is covered with stretch from Klaipėda to
thousands upon thousands the Sambian Peninsula in
Day 7 Aukštaitija National of crosses and religious sculp- Kaliningrad. Enjoy a peaceful
Park tures from all over the world, stay at one of the many small
From Druskininkai, take the and is almost as much a guesthouses in and around
northeastern road via Vilnius Nida (p306), which can be
to Ignalina, a small rural town reached by minibus.
that lies just outside Aukštaitija
National Park. Day 13 Curonian Spit
Spend the day exploring the
Day 8 Aukštaitija National Curonian Spit on foot or by
Park bicycle. Points of interest
Dotted with glacial lakes, rock include the Hill of Witches
formations, and ancient pine, (p289) created by local sculptors
spruce and birch forests, just outside Juodkrantė , and
Aukštaitija National Park the 52-m (171-ft) Parnidis
(see pp270–71) is a delightful Dune (p288), which offers
area to explore. Worthwhile marvellous views of the area.
sights include Salos II Cultural
Reserve for its exhibition of Day 14 Curonian Spit
traditional thatched houses, to Vilnius
and Ladakalnis Hill for its The journey back to Vilnius by
panoramic view of the The popular 18-km (11-mile) beach at the car, bus or train takes around
national park. resort of Palanga 5 hours.

18 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA
Helsinki,
St Petersburg
Mariehamn,
Putting Estonia, Latvia and Stockholm
Lithuania on the Map Kapellskar Tallinn

With Estonia in the north, Latvia in the centre and Lithuania in Paldiski
the south, the Baltic States lie on the southeastern shore of
the Baltic Sea. The region is bordered in the east by Russia and
Vormsi Riisipere
in the south by Poland, Belarus and the Russian enclave of Kärdla Island
Kaliningrad. The Baltic States’ total land area is 173,000 sq km Haapsalu
(66,778 sq miles). Latvia and Lithuania are of roughly equal Hiiumaa
Island
size, while Estonia is about a third smaller and has a relatively Muhu Lihula
flat terrain in comparison to the other two countries. The Island
three capital cities – Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius – are home
to around a third of the region’s 6.3 million people. Saaremaa Pärnu
Island
Kuressaare
Kihnu
Island
Gulf of R ī ga

Stockholm
Cape Kolka
Ventspils
Talsi Gauja
Nynashamn, Jūrmala Rīga
Travemunde Tukums
Sabile
Kuldīga
Key Jelgava
Motorway Baltic Pāvilosta
Saldus Dobele
Major road Sea
Minor road Liepāja
Railway line
Joniškis
International border
Mažeikiai
Travemunde Telšiai Šiauliai
Palanga Plungė

Karlshamn,
Kiel Klaipėda Gargždai LITH
Raseiniai
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 50 Šilutė
Curonian Nemunas
Spit Tauragė
Nynäshamn
Jurbarkas

Kaliningrad Vilkaviškis
Marijampolė
KALININGRAD
Lebork (RUSSIA)
Gdańsk
Lazdijai
Elblag
POLAND
For keys to symbols see back flap

PUT TING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA ON THE M AP 19

Sillamäe
Narva
Jõhvi Chudovo
Rakvere
Tapa
Luga
Slantsy
Veliky Novgorod
Paide
Lak e Plyussa
Peipsi Zapolye
Shimsk
Strugi Krasnye
ESTONIA
Tartu
Viljandi
Lake
Vortsjärv
Porkhov
RUSSIA
Pskov
Otepää Võru
Dedovichi
Valga
Chikhachevo
Valmiera Alūksne Ostrov
Bezhanitsy
Smiltene
Cēsis Pytalovo
Gulbene
Sigulda
LA TVIA
Opochka
Ērgli Velikiye Luki
Ogre Ludza Pustoshka
Rēzekne
Daugava
Jēkabpils
Nevel
Preiļi
Biržai
Krāslava
Rokiškis Daugavpils BELARUS

Europe
Panevėžys
Utena
SWEDEN
FINLAND
UANIA
Ukmergė NORWAY
Molėtai
ESTONIA
RUSSIA
Jonava Nor th LATVIA
Sea
DENMARK LITHUANIA
Kaišiadorys
Kaunas Vilnius UNITED
KINGDOM BELARUS
NETH. POLAND
GERMANY
BELGIUM CZECH
REPUBLIC UKRAINE
SLOVAKIA
Alytus FRANCE AUSTRIA HUNGARY MOLDOVA
SWITZ.
CROATIA ROMANIA
Varėna SERBIA
ITALY
BULGARIA
Nemunas
SPAIN
Druskininkai Lida

20 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA



Architectural Styles
Ever since the wooden fortifications of the Baltic tribes were
replaced by stone castles in the 13th and 14th centuries,
foreign influences have domi nated the architecture of
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. Today, the Baltic capitals are
archi tectural treasure troves, with Tallinn particularly noted
for its medieval buildings, Vilnius for its Italian Baroque and
Rīga for its Art Nouveau. The Soviet era saw the building of
inexpensive mass housing. Since independence private
Detail of the extravagant Gothic brickwork
investment has funded ambitious new projects.
of Perkūnas House, Kaunas
Romanesque and Gothic
Brought to Tallinn and Rīga by medieval The Estonian
German invaders, the Romanesque style, with History Museum
its heavy vaulting, round arches and restrained was built in Tallinn for
the Great Guild, a
ornamentation, lasted briefly in the region. The powerful organization
ornate Gothic ribbed vaults, pointed arches
of German-speaking
and decorative façades were more popular. merchants. This early
Tallinn boasts the finest examples, while most
15th-century
of Rīga’s were destroyed as part of the building has a stern
19th-century rebuilding of the city. Gothic façade and
vaulted halls.
The Church of
St Anne, Vilnius’s
most celebrated
Gothic building,
was constructed
using 33 types of
red brick. So
impressed was
Napoleon
Bonaparte that he
is said to have Kuressaare Castle, on Saaremaa Island, is the only
wanted to take it intact Gothic-style medieval castle in the Baltic
back to Paris. States. It is built in local dolomite.
Renaissance and Baroque
The 15th- and 16th-century revival of Classical learning,
which favoured architectural features such as regularity,
symmetry and a central axis, found little expression in
Lithuania. In Latvia and Estonia, however, it led to the
addition of new façades to existing buildings. The bold 17th-
and 18th-century Baroque style, endorsed by the Catholic
Church, found favour in the religious climate of Vilnius.

Pažaislis Monastery, in
Kaunas, is one of Eastern
Europe’s most
prominent Baroque
monuments. Built in the
17th century by Italian
architects, the
monastery church has a The House of Blackheads, in Tallinn, was
twin-towered façade, used by the Brotherhood of Blackheads.
behind which soars the It was formerly a 14th-century building,
52-m (171-ft) dome. which was redesigned in a Renaissance
A wealth of marble style in 1597. The interiors were reno vated
enriches the interior. in Neo-Classical style in 1908.

A POR TRAIT OF EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 21




Neo-Classical and Historicist
The Neo-Classical style arrived in the Baltic States as late as
the 1780s. The style had a strong influence on Tartu, as well
as some of the finest manor houses throughout Estonia.
However, most examples today are found in Tallinn, often as
façades on earlier buildings; some Latvian and Lithuanian
palaces also exhibit the style. Around 1820, the Historicist
movement became popular, drawing inspiration from various
styles including Gothic, Renaissance and Neo-Baroque.

Tartu’s Town Hall is an
elegant Neo-Classical
edi fice, eye-catchingly
pain ted in lilac and orange.
It was designed in the 18th
century by J H B Walter for
the Pistohlkors family.











Kaunas’s Town Hall, locally known
as the “White Swan”, was reno vated
in 1870 in Neo-Classical style. It
also bears Baroque traces, most The Latvian National Theatre, in Rīga, was designed in a
obviously in its 53-m (174-ft) tall superb Neo-Baroque style. It was completed in 1902 by architect
stepped tower. Augusts Reinbergs under the influence of Historicist aesthetics.

Art Nouveau, Modernist and Contemporary
The second half of the 19th century saw Art Nouveau gaining a hold in Rīga.
After World War I there was a reaction against earlier flamboyant styles, with
Modernists emphasizing function and Soviets favouring severe Functionalism.
Since independence, further construction has taken place in the capitals, but
it is not always in harmony with older architectural styles.
Alberta iela 13,
in Rīga, is a fine Europa Tower, in Vilnius,
example of eclectic is one of a growing
Art Nouveau, blend- number of skyscrapers
ing Classical and in the Baltic capitals,
Symbolist imagery marking the return of
and Neo-Baroque the private sector.
stylis tic features.

The National
Library, in Tallinn, is
an architectural
triumph of the late
Soviet period. Raine
Karp, the Estonian
architect who
designed it, used
local dolomitic
limestone.

22 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA



Landscape and Wildlife
The three Baltic countries are heavily forested with
pine, spruce and birch and enjoy a predominantly flat
terrain, although there are hilly areas such as the
Vidzeme Upland in Latvia. The highest point in the
region is Estonia’s Suur Munamägi peak, which rises to
about 318 m (1,043 ft) above sea level. The Baltic States
are known for their dramatic coastlines, innumerable
lakes and rivers as well as extensive wetlands which,
along with forests, provide habitats for a wide range of
wildlife. The countries are also on major bird migration Erratic boulders, some of them very
large, are common on the coastline
paths, making them popular with ornitho logists all
of Estonia’s Käsmu Peninsula (see
over the world. All three countries are still extensively p114). They were dragged there by
covered with peat bogs, marshes and lakes. glaciers during the last Ice Age.


















Forest Wetlands
Around 40 per cent of the total landscape in The extensive wetlands of the region are ideal
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania is forested. Pine, habitats for migrating birds, and for supporting
spruce and birch are the main species, alongside plants such as cranberries and orchids. In
other trees such as oak, ash, elm and maple. Estonia, raised bogs in which thick layers of peat
Trees were highly valued in the region’s have built up are common. Many are protected
pre-Christian religions. by national parks.
Fauna Bees are highly valued in
the region, as apiculture is
The Baltic States are home to large mammals such as an important industry and
lynx, elk, deer, wolves and brown bears. With the a part of the Baltic States’
region lying on major migra tion routes there are cultural heritage.
numerous nesting bird species including white stork,
crane, barn swallow and grouse. The rivers and lakes
teem with fish such as perch, trout and carp.
White storks are
emblematic of the Wolves are found in the
region and are often region’s forests, especially
found nesting atop in Lithuania. However,
chimney pots or they are a rare sight, as
telegraph poles. hunting has resulted in
Black storks are a dwindling numbers of
relatively rare sight. this predatory animal.

A POR TRAIT OF EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 23




Flora
Arctic lichen is a
The Baltic States’ extensive forests and wetlands type of fungus found
provide an environment in which a diverse range in Hiiumaa Island’s
of plants can thrive. Many edible varieties of fungi Landscape Reserve.
and berries grow here. There is an orchid trail near Like other lichen, it
Lake Engure, in Latvia, and yellow rattle and sea usually grows in two
holly grow in Saaremaa and Curonian Spit. layers with a growth
of algae in between.
Mushrooms are Orchids grow
mostly wood mostly in the
decomposers or wetlands and
parasites. As the woods. Those
virgin forests are found here
depleting, include rare
species of the North European Berries, such as cran-
former are species that are berries, are eaten and
becoming rarer. facing extinction. also turned into wine.


















Lakes and Rivers Coastline
The region is dotted with lakes, of which Lake Estonia has a sprawling coastline. It includes
Peipsi in Estonia is the largest. There are a a stretch of the Baltic Klint, which is a long
number of short rivers in the area. The low erosional escarpment stretching from Sweden
salinity of the Baltic Sea limits the number of to Russia. Another striking coastal feature is the
plants and animal species it can support. Thus Curonian Spit, a long sandy strip in Lithuania
many of those present are freshwater species. stretching to Kaliningrad.

Ringed seals are protected
The barn
swallow, the and can be found off
national bird the coast of Saaremaa
of Estonia, often and other
builds its nests Estonian islands.
in man-made
structures.
Elk is a game
Brown bears are species that
omnivores and can usually lives in
be spotted in the forests and
forests of Estonia and wetlands. It often
Latvia, although they appears on
are usually sighted restaurant
only with the help menus in the
of a guide. Baltic States.

24 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA



Religion
Although the Baltic lands were officially Christian by the end
of the 14th century, pagan beliefs persisted and mingled
with the new religion. Protestantism left its mark in the
16th century, but Lithuania soon returned to the Catholic
fold. Today, it is the only Baltic State where the church plays
a major public role – in Estonia and Latvia, the surge in
religious participation after independence in 1991 proved
short-lived. A significant number of ethnic Russians belong Aerial view of the Orthodox Cathedral in
Rīga, Latvia
to the Russian Orthodox church, while other minority
religious groups include Jews and Muslims.
Orthodox Christianity
Orthodox missionaries arrived
in the region as early as the
10th century but had little
success. Orthodox Christianity
was largely eclipsed by
Catholicism, except among
the Setu (see p124). This
changed only under Russian
rule in the 19th century, with
many magnificent Orthodox
churches built at that time.
Today, almost all Orthodox
worshippers in the region are
ethnic Russians. Their churches
Priest performing a Romuva ritual based on ancient pagan beliefs are known for the abundance
of icons – images of Christ,
deities show aspects of one Mary and various saints – often
Paganism
divine being. Pagan over tones displayed in rows on a screen
Christianity came late to the are still present in a number of called an iconostasis. The
Baltic region, with the Grand Christian celebrations. region also contains small
Duchy of Lithuania holding out The first period of indepen- communities of Old Believers
until 1387, a year after Grand dence in the 20th century saw (see p126), descendants of
Duke Jogaila was baptized. The attempts to revive old worshippers who broke away
details of pagan beliefs are traditions. Some local organi- from the Orthodox Church in
sparse, and scholars rely on zations, such as Dievturība in protest against reforms
surviving traditions and folk Latvia, were nationalist in tone. introduced by Patriarch Nikon
songs. Animism, the belief that After years of Soviet margina- in 1652. Bringing Russian
plants and animals possess lization, Dievturība has now Orthodox rites in line with the
spirits, prevailed. Trees had been revived, though the Greek, his motives were both
great significance, with prayers Lithuanian pagan group religious and political. The Old
offered at sacred groves. Romuva has a stronger Believers sought to retain the
Shamans communicated following in the country. purity of their faith, and the
with the gods, but there was
no organized priesthood. For
Latvians and Lithuanians major
deities included Dievs or Dievas
(the Sky God), Saule (the Sun),
Pērkons or Perkūnas (Thunder),
Velns or Velnias (Trickster),
Mēness or Menulis (the Moon)
and Laima (Fate). The Estonians
and Livs (see p176) worshipped
Taara (War), Uku (Thunder and
Lightning), Vanetooni (the Dead),
Maaema (Land), Ahti (Water)
and Vanejumi (Fertility). Some
scholars argue that these various Devotees lined up in Alexander Nevsky Church, Tallinn, Estonia

A POR TRAIT OF EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 25



result was the Russian term
raksol (schism) and their
subsequent perse cution. Many
Old Believers fled from Russia,
and today the main
communities in the Baltic
States are around Lake Peipsi
(see p127) in Estonia and in the
Latgale region of Latvia.
Differences in rites include
making the sign of the cross
with two fingers (the Orthodox
church now uses three) and
changes to the wording of the
Creed. Old Believers regard
shaving a man’s beard as sinful, Catholic Church of the Holy Spirit, Vilnius, Lithuania
and there are restrictions on
smoking tobacco. Members Counter-Reformation, the trained and there was an
often wear long traditional Catholic Church’s response increased use of indigenous
Russian shirts. to the threat posed by languages for religious
Lutheranism. The newly activities. The first Bible in
established Jesuit order built Latvian was pub lished in 1689
schools and made efforts to by the Lutheran theologian
use the native language, also Ernst Glück (1654–1705).
emphasizing the importance There was a brief revival
of the Virgin Mary in an in religious activity after
attempt to win back worship- inde pendence from the
pers. Today Lithuania is the oppres sive Soviet regime,
only country out of the three during which many churches
Baltic States where religion is had been converted for other
central to national identity. uses. Although Estonia and
Latvia are still officially
Lutheran, partici pation has
Protestantism
declined in recent years and
The Reformation was quickly there are now marginally
felt in Estonia and Western more Catholics than Lutherans
Latvia with the introduction of in Latvia.
the revolutionary ideas
Old Believers’ Church, made of wood, near of Lutheranism, a major
Lake Peipsi branch of Protestant
Christianity. The
offshoot empha sized
Catholicism
receiving God’s grace
Catholicism was brought to through faith alone,
the region by force, with Pope rather than through
Innocent III authorizing a good works. It first
crusade against the north ern appeared in Estonian
pagans in 1198. The areas urban centres during
which are now known as the 1520s. Initially, the
Estonia and Latvia fell first, landowners resisted
with Lithuania hanging on the change, but soon
until 1387. they recognized it as a
The new religion was useful way to resist the
regarded as alien by the indi- influence of the Pope.
genous population, a feeling Peasants were
exacerbated by the use of expected to follow the
Latin in services. Catholicism faith of their landlords.
found its strongest roots in The new beliefs were
Eastern Latvia and Lithuania, further bolstered by
both under the influence of Swedish rule in the
Poland. These foundations 17th century, when
were strengthened by the more pastors were Virgin Mary’s Lutheran Church, Otepää

26 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA



Famous People
A history of cultural domination by other nations explains why
only a handful of figures from the Baltic States are internationally
known. It was only with the 19th-century national awakening
movements that the notion of distinctive Baltic cultures gained
popularity. After the brief confidence of the first independence,
the restrictions of the Soviet era meant that most famous
people from the region were either of Russian heritage or
were living outside their native countries. In the years since
independence in 1991, the arts have been hampered by
A portrait by Michael Sittow, a
reduced state funding.
15th-century Tallinn-born artist
Visual Arts
Estonia’s best-known painter was Eduard Wiiralt (1898–
1954), while in the 20th century animators Elbert Tuganov
(1920–2007) and Priit Pärn (b.1946) gained international
praise. Within Latvia, painter Janis Rozentāls (1866–1916)
remains most beloved, although Mark Rothko (see p200) is
more famed abroad. Lithuania has produced several
notable photographers, including Antanas Sutkus (b.1939).



Sergei Eisenstein (1898–
1948), one of the most Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis
influential film directors (1875–1911), Lithuania’s pre-eminent
and theorists of all time, composer, was also an accomplished
was born in Rīga. His artist. His work draws extensively upon
groundbreaking use of Symbolism and the influence of music
editing is best seen in his can be found in his emphasis on mood,
early Marxist cinematic interest in harmony and development
works, including Strike! of themes across a series of paintings.
(1924) and Battleship The tempera on canvas shown above
Potemkin (1925). is entitled The Offering (1909).

Literature
Key to the 19th-century national awareness was the
preservation and creation of stories by authors such
as Latvian Andrejs Pumpurs (1841–1902), Estonian
Friedrich Kreutzwald (1803–82) and Lithuanian Jonas
Mačiulis (1862–1932). Modern literature is equally
celebrated and famous con temporary authors include
Estonian poets Jaan Kaplinski (b.1941) and Jaan Kross
(1920–2007), and Lithuanian novelists Ričardas Gavelis
(1950–2002) and Jurga Ivanauskaitė (1961–2007).
Anton Hansen Tammsaare (1878–1940) is
regarded as the greatest Estonian writer. His
work Truth and Justice is a five-volume series of
novels covering subjects that include rural
Estonia and the Russian Revolution of 1905.

Czesław Miłosz (1911–2004) was born into a Polish
aristocratic family and educated in Vilnius. A poet and
intellectual, Miłosz won the Nobel Prize for Literature
in 1980. He is perhaps best known for The Captive
Mind, a prose critique of Communist ideology.

A POR TRAIT OF EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 27




Music
Estonia has a strong tradition of classical
composition. Veljo Tormis (b.1930) is Arvo Pärt (b.1935), an
influenced by Estonian folk music, while Estonian composer, made
Erkki-Sven Tüür (b.1959) mixes avant-garde early experiments with
techniques with early music and progressive Schoenberg’s 12-tone
rock. The father of Latvian classical music is technique and the use of
chance. He is internation ally
Jāzeps Vītols (1863–1948), and the country is known for “sacred
also known for pop and rock performers minimalism”, drawing on
such as the band Brainstorm. Lithuania is medieval traditions and
renowned for jazz musicians, inclu ding the Orthodox Christianity. Pärt
Ganelin Trio, while its finest classical describes his music as
composer was M K Čiurlionis. tintinnabuli (like bells).
Theatre and Dance
Professional theatre was once the domain of the ruling
classes, but from the mid-19th century plays were written by
authors such as Estonia’s Eduard Vilde (1865–1933) and
Latvia’s Rūdolfs Blaumanis (1863–1908). Lithuania’s lively
theatre scene is dominated by director Eimuntas Nekrošius
(b.1952). Ballet thrived during the Soviet era, with the Rīga
Ballet promoting Alexander Godunov (1949–95).
Mikhail Baryshnikov
(b.1948), born in Rīga, is
of Russian descent.
Baryshnikov began his
ballet studies in the Latvian
city before pro gressing to
Leningrad (now St Voldemar Panso (1920–77), the
Petersburg). He defected famous theatre director, rejected
while on tour in Canada in Soviet ideology in favour of com-
1974. He later became a plex characters and the ambiguity
citizen of the USA and of Symbolism. He also founded the
founded a dance centre in Estonian Youth Theatre (later the
New York. Tallinn City Theatre).

Sport
The talent of Baltic athletes was, for many decades, obscured by
their status as Soviet citizens. Estonia’s most famous Olympian
was heavyweight wrestler Kristjan Palusalu (1908–87), while
Latvian long-distance walker Jānis Daliņš (1904–78) won the
Olympic silver in 1932. Lithuania’s top Olympic athlete is discus-
thrower Virgilijus Alekna (b.1972). The region has also produced
exceptional basketball players, including Lithuanian Arvydas
Sabonis (b.1964), Latvian Uljana Semjonova (b.1952) and
Estonian Tiit Sokk (b.1964).



Erki Nool (b.1970) won a
gold medal in the decathlon
at the 2000 Sydney Olympics, Uljana Semjonova (b.1952), a
a controversial result since a basketball player of Russian-
judge had disallowed all Latvian origin, won two Olympic
three of his discus attempts gold medals in 1976 and 1980.
before the competition She dominated the world
referee over-ruled him. In basketball scene throughout the
2007, Nool was elected to the 1970s and 80s and never lost any
Estonian Parliament. official international match.

28 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA



Folk Songs and Music
The traditional songs of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania
typically deal with everyday events, calendar rituals and
rites of passage, though stories of epic heroism and
grandeur also exist. These songs are sung by women.
Efforts to compile the songs began in earnest in the late
19th century and this was an important facet of the region’s
growing national awareness. Later, bet ween 1987 and 1990,
the struggle for freedom from the Soviet Union came to be
known as the Singing Revolution, partly due to the role Cover of the 1998 album Beyond the River:
played by huge open-air concerts. Seasonal Songs of Latvia













Traditional Lithuanian songs, or dainos, deal
with daily life. They are sung solo, in unison or
polyphonically. One of the best-known forms is
the duophonic sutartinė from the northeast.




Monophonic
Estonian songs,
or runo, are related
to those from
Finland, and their Baltica Festival
roots are much
older than those This annual international folklore festival
of Latvia and was first held in Estonia in 1987 and is
Lithuania. The Setu hosted cyclically by the Baltic States. The
people of Eastern three Baltic flags were hoisted together for
Estonia have their the first time during the second festival in
own distinctive 1987. Today, the festival brings together
polyphonic around 3,000 participants and includes
singing tra ditions. concerts, parades and workshops.

Latvian folk songs, or
dainas, consist of one or two
stanzas each with two non-
rhyming couplets. This
singing tradi tion is lyrical and
usually draws inspiration
from pagan mythology or
daily life. Traditionally, these
songs were accompanied by
instruments such as bag pipes
and psalteries, with
accordions and fiddles added
in the 17th century.

A POR TRAIT OF EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 29



Veljo Tormis Baltic Folk Singers
(b.1930) is a
celebrated com- The Soviet era saw government-approved
poser of choral performers refine folk songs with classical
music based on harmonies and accompaniment, but enthusiasts
the folk songs of worked to preserve genuine traditions. Today, a
his native Estonia. number of festivals are held all over the region.
Many of his more
political pieces of
the 1970s and 80s
were censored
by the Soviet
government.







Iļģi, the famous Latvian folk music band, was formed
in 1981. Like most folk musicians of the country, they
revived forgotten traditions and developed into a
band that used folklore as an impulse for creating
music of their own.

Veronika
Povilionienė
(b.1946) has
enjoyed success
since the late
1960s, initially
promoting folk
singing as a mode
of anti-Soviet
protest. In recent
years, she has also
recorded pop and
jazz albums.
The Baltic Psaltery
The most characteristic instrument used by the region’s folk singers is the Baltic psaltery. It exists
in numerous variations, and is known as kokle in Latvia, kanklės in Lithuania and kannel in Estonia.
In the late 19th century, hybrids influenced by German and Austrian zithers were developed.


The body is a single A bridge connects
piece of wood with Wooden the strings to the
an ornamented pegs are resonator, unlike
soundboard added. used to tune traditional
the strings. psalteries.
Strings made from
steel, bronze or
natural fibres
number between
5 and 12. Strings of the
modern zither-
Strings are like hybrids can
positioned number many
unevenly. more than those
used in the tradi-
tional kanklės.
Kannel Kokle Kanklės

30 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA



Baltic Amber
Amber has been valued for millennia, with amber jewellery
found dating back to the early Neolithic period (around 7000 BC).
Many medical authorities of the ancient world, including
Hippocrates, believed that amber had healing properties. A trade
network, now known as the Amber Road, arose at the height of
the Roman Empire. In the medieval period, amber was used to
make rosaries. Today, it still washes up on Latvian and Lithuanian
shores, although 90 per cent of the world’s amber is mined in the
Curonian Spit of neighbouring Kaliningrad. One of the many amber stalls
found in tourist areas
Identifying Amber
Sellers may pass off copal or plastic as genuine amber. Genuine
amber floats in salt water and exudes a pine scent when touched
with a red-hot needle, but only laboratory tests are conclusive.

Amber-catchers in the Baltic
Sea are shown in this litho-
graph from the 1850s. In the
13th century, local amber-
gathering was forbidden by
the Teutonic Knights. Their Unpolished amber of different
monopoly was lifted only in colours and shapes
the 19th century, reviving
amber-working traditions.


Amber pieces are regularly
washed ashore in Pāvilosta
(see p183), a small port town
in Latvia. There are a handful
of professional amber-
catchers, and tourists can
arrange to go out with them.
Formation of Amber
Before it is washed up on the coasts of the Baltic States, which happens especially after raging storms,
amber takes millions of years to transform from pine resin into a sought-after substance. Often clear,
amber can also contain pine needles or insects which were trapped in the resin before it solidified.












Tree Exuding Resin Insects Trapped in Amber Copal Formation
Certain trees exude a sticky resin, Any insects stuck in the resin are Copal, or hardened resin,
which has a range of def ensive prevented from decaying, as the becomes incorporated into the
functions. Its antiseptic qualities substance is antiseptic and ground after the tree dies. The
kill bacteria and fungi, while its lacking in water. Slowly, the solidification process continues
stickiness inhi bits physical attack volatile components evaporate, for millions of years, until the
from insects. leaving behind copal. inert substance becomes amber.

A POR TRAIT OF EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 31


Uses of Amber The Amber Road
In addition to its decorative value, amber An EU-funded project has
was once considered to have healing devised a modern-day Amber
powers and even today some Lithuanians Road that links a series of towns
consider it to be a cure for goitre. The along the Baltic Coast. Starting
Aztecs and Maya are known to have from Ventspils (see pp180–81),
burned amber as incense. the route takes in Palanga (see
p286), Liepāja (see pp184–5)
and Klaipėda (see pp284–5).
While some of these towns
have amber museums, Palanga
Delicately crafted also has an amber-processing
Knife decorated with amber amber jewellery workshop. Nida in Lithuania
has a museum that exhibits
amber. The route also takes in
Karklė and Pāvilosta, with
professional amber-catchers.
Juodkrantė, once the site of
major amber-mining activity,
boasts a collection of pre historic
amber artifacts. Further south
Exquisite brooch fashioned is Kaliningrad, a Russian outpost
Typical inlaid amber box in amber that is the source of the vast
majority of the world’s amber.

Ventspils •






Liepāja • LATVIA
The Amber Museum in Palanga
(see p286) features a stunning
collection of amber pieces with
prehistoric insects trapped inside, as •Šventoji
well as amber jewellery. There is also
a display presenting the natural Palanga • • Karklė
history of amber. Klaipėda •
Juodkrantė • LITHUANIA
An amber-polishing workshop, Nida •
held by experts, offers participants
the opportunity to create their own Kaliningrad RUSSIA
jewellery. Some amber museums
across the Baltic States conduct Key
these workshops. Amber Road

Amber in Folklore
A popular Lithuanian folk tale recounts the love
between the fisherman Kastytis and the goddess
Juratė, who lived in an amber palace at the bottom
of the sea. Angry that a mortal had dared to touch a
goddess, the god Perkūnas sent lightning to destroy
the palace and drown Kastytis. It is believed that pieces
of the palace have been washing up on the shore ever
since. The well-known story was first recorded in
writing by Liudvikas Adomas Jucevičius in 1842, and
the tale has even been adapted into a rock opera. Jūratė kaj Kastytis by Nijolė Ona Gaigalaitė

32 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA


The Climate of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania
With the Baltic Sea as a moderating influence, the Baltic region
has a temperate climate without the extremes that afflict
neighbouring Russia. Winters are gloomy, however, with short
days and bitter winds. The first snow usually falls in November, WESTERN
and inland there can be constant snow cover from December ESTONIA
to April. The snowy season is shorter on the coast, where
temperatures are noticeably lower in summer and higher in
Pärnu
winter. At other times the weather is unpredictable, with rain Kuressaare
even in the middle of summer, when days are long and warm.


PÄRNU
Average monthly
21/70 maximum temperature
° C/F 13/55 Ventspils
9/48
7/45
4/39
0/32
-3/27 Average monthly
minimum temperature WESTERN
-9/16 Rīga
LATVIA
6 10 3 1
Average daily hours of
hrs hrs hrs hr Jelgava
sunshine Liepāja
36 72 60 36
Average monthly
mm mm mm mm
rainfall
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
WESTERN Šiauliai
LIEPĀJA
Klaipėda LITHUANIA
20/68
° C/F 14/57 11/52
8/47 6/43
2/36
-1/30
-5/23
6 9 3 1
hrs hrs hrs hr Kaunas
37 66 77 53
mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan

KLAIPĖDA RĪGA KAUNAS
20/68 22/72 22/72
° C/F ° C/F ° C/F
14/57 12/54 12/54
9/48 10/50 10/50 11/52 12/54 11/52
6/43
2/36 1/34 4/39 2/36 4/39
0/31 -2/28 -3/27
-5/23 -8/18 -9/16
6 9 3 1 6 10 3 1 6 9 3 1
hrs hrs hrs hr hrs hrs hrs hr hrs hrs hrs hr
36 74 80 50 41 85 60 34 42 80 45 39
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan

THE CLIM A TE OF EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 33


TALLINN
Tallinn 21/70
° C/F
12/54 9/48
8/46
4/39
0/32
-2/28
EASTERN
ESTONIA -8/18
6 10 2 1
hrs hrs hrs hr
Tartu
Viljandi 36 78 73 48
mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
TARTU
22/72
° C/F
9/48 11/52 9/48
3/37
0/32
-4/25
EASTERN
-11/12
LATVIA
8 10 3 1
hrs hrs hrs hr
33 71 52 29
Jēkabpils mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Daugavpils
DAUGAVPILS
23/73
° C/F
10/50 12/54 10/50
1/34 3/37
CENTRAL -4/25
LITHUANIA
-10/14
6 8 3 1
0 km 50
hrs hrs hrs hr
0 miles 50
42 79 52 37
Vilnius mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan


VILNIUS
22/72
° C/F
11/52 12/54 10/50
2/36 3/38
-4/25
-9/16
6 10 3 1
hrs hrs hrs hr
46 78 53 41
mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Estonia’s winter landscape with snow-capped forest



THE HIST OR Y OF EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 35

THE HISTORY OF

ESTONIA, LATVIA

AND LITHUANIA



The history of the Baltic region begins in 3000 BC with the arrival of the early Baltic
tribes, the ancestors of today’s Estonians, Latvians and Lithuanians. Despite
a shared experience of conquest, foreign occupation and struggles for
independence, the three countries have preserved their distinct cultural
identities, emerging in 1991 as sovereign states.

Archaeological evidence sug gests that the coast, the Prussians beyond the Nemunas
Baltic region was inhabited as early as river, the Zemgalians in central Latvia and
10,000 BC, at the end of the Ice Age. The the Selonians and Latgalians further east.
earliest occu pied site, at Kernavė in For several centuries, the Balts remained
Lithuania, dates back to 9000 BC. These firmly rural, living off the land. Until the early
Stone Age people used bows, arrows and 1200s, there were simi lar but un related
spears for hunting and fishing. It was not settlements all along the coast, from what is
until 3000 BC, however, that the ancestors now Klaipėda as far as St Petersburg. There
of the current inhabitants began to arrive. are very few records of life at that time as
Sur viving by hunting and fishing, the the local communities used wood rather
Finno-Ugrians – the future Finns and than stone for all their fortifications and
Estonians – were among the first to drift housing. Archaeological research has shown
across Europe from Asia. They were pushed that there were extensive trading networks
back by the Indo-European groups that across the sea from this area to Sweden and
arrived in 2000 BC. The Indo-Europeans, Germany and inland towards Russia. The
who intro duced crop cultivation and little written material from that time talks
animal rearing to the traditional modes about the Balts as good boat-builders and
of subsistence, mingled with the existing dreaded pirates.
groups, eventually forming the races At a time when the rest of Europe had
now known collectively as the Balts. embraced Christianity, the Balts staunchly
During the first centuries AD, distinctive practised paganism. After haphazard
regional tribes began to form. These attempts by small groups of Western
were the Samogitians (Low landers) and European missionaries to convert the area
Aukštaitijans (High landers) in western and to Christianity failed, the first Baltic crusade
eas tern Lithuania, the Curonians along the was sanc tioned by Pope Innocent III in 1198.

Pope Innocent III (1160–1216)
10,000 Earliest 3000 Finno- 98 Roman 1198 The first Baltic
traces of human Ugrians arrive writer Tacitus 700 Vikings use Latvian crusade sanctioned
life in the in the region describes the rivers to trade with by Pope Innocent III
Baltic region “Aestii” people Persia and Turkey
10,000 BC 5000 BC AD 1 AD 600 AD 1190
9000 Hunting- 2000 Indo- 1009 The name
fishing groups European 100 Romans begin trading in Lithuania appears
flourish in Kernavė groups arrive amber along the Baltic coast in written form for
the first time
Early Neolithic bone objects, Narva, Estonia
Detail from Jan Matejko’s Battle of Grünwald (1878) showing Grand Duke Vytautas defeating the Teutonic Knights in 1410

36 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA


Germans in Estonia and Latvia Saaremaa, was subjugated in 1227.
After the papal declaration of the crusade, A fortress built in 1260 at its capital,
the Teutonic Knights, or the German warrior- Kuressaare, is the only one in the Baltic
monks who had previously called themselves region to be preserved largely as the
the Brotherhood of the Sword, began to Teutonic Knights built it. Livonia flourished
venture along the Baltic Coast. The phrase under the Knights, as they built cities
“Drang nach Osten” (“Thrust Eastwards”), throughout the region. After joining the
which would become notorious in World Hanseatic League, a trading confederation
War II, dates from this time. Religious and of German port-cities and merchants’
commercial zeal drove the crusa ders to associations, Tallinn and Rīga began to
establish colonies along the Baltic Coast. In thrive. The new social order, dominated by
1201, a bishopric was set up in Rīga, which the Germans, excluded the local inhabi-
became the basis for the Baltic conquest. tants not only from mercantile acti vities,
Expanding into Estonia from the south, the but also agriculture, where they could only
Knights created Livonia in 1207. Comprising be hired as serfs.
Latvia and Estonia, Livonia was recognized
as part of the Holy Roman Empire, with Polish Domination in Lithuania
Rīga as the capital. Estonia’s largest island, Lithuania has a very different history from
that of the area to its north. While
Christianity was dominant in much of the
Baltic region, Lithuania continued to be
reso lutely pagan until 1385, when
Duke Jogaila married a Polish prin cess,
embraced Christianity and assumed the
crowns of Poland and Lithuania. Long
before him, in 1251, Mindaugas had briefly
adopted Christianity so that he could be
crowned by the Pope. In 1410, Jogaila and
his cousin Vytautas (r.1410–30), Grand
Prince of Lithuania, decisively defeated the
Teutonic Knights in the Battle of Žalgiris, or
Grünwald. Under Vytautas, the Grand
Duchy of Lithuania (see pp216–17) emerged
as one of the largest states in Europe.
Eventually, however, it came increasingly
under the control of the Poles, with the
rela tionship culminating in the creation of
the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth in
A 19th-century lithograph showing the Battle of Grünwald (1410) 1569. With the Polish takeover, the right to

1237 The Brotherhood of the 1372 German 1410 Lithuanians
1201 German Sword becomes Livonian Order replaces Latin and Poles defeat the
crusaders set as the official Teutonic Knights
up a bishopric 1260 Building of Kuressaare language in at the Battle of
in Rīga Castle starts Kuressaare Castle Rīga and Tallinn Žalgiris (Grünwald)
1200 1250 1300 1350 1400 1450
1230 Mindaugas 1385 Lithuania 1430 The Grand
unites the Grand 1282 Rīga joins the united with Poland Duchy reaches
Duchy of Lithuania Hanseatic League; Tallinn under Jogaila the Black Sea
1207 Livonia becomes part of follows three years later
the Holy Roman Empire

THE HIST OR Y OF EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 37


lived colonies in Africa and the Caribbean.
The Swedish occupation, regarded as the
gentlest Livonia ever endured, was marked by
a benign governance. The Germans, mean-
while, continued to hold sway in Livonia,
socially and culturally. When an alterna tive to
Latin was needed in the churches, German
was the obvi ous choice. The universities at
Siege of Narva by the Russians in 1558 during the Livonian Wars Rīga and Tartu taught exclusively in German.
German merchants were granted special
own land was lost, the privileges of the rights by the Swedish rulers, Charles XI
pea santry were curbed and serfdom was (r.1660–97) and Charles XII (r.1697–1718),
firmly established in Lithuania. to ensure the continuity of commerce.
After the German barons’ estates were
The Swedes and the Russians expropriated by the Swedish crown, they
Sweden and Russia fought two major wars turned to Russia for help. In 1700, Charles XII
to ensure control over the Baltic Sea and defeated Peter the Great of Russia at Narva,
the surrounding land. In the Livonian Wars marking the beginning of the Great Northern
(1558–83), Poland and Lithuania were War (1700–21). The loss at Narva inspired the
involved in resisting the armies of Russia’s Tsar to create a modern army and, in 1709,
Ivan the Terrible (r.1533–84), in view of the using a bitter winter to his advantage, he
destruction he had wrought in Livonia. The defeated the Swedes at the Battle of Poltava.
immediate aftermath of the war resulted in In 1710, Tallinn and Rīga were occupied and
most of Estonia coming under Swedish soon Estonia and Latvia were brought
rule, while Latvia endured a Polish under Russian control.
occupation and Lithuania’s full union with
Poland was formalized. Southern and
Eastern Latvia, commonly known as
Courland and Latgale respectively, became
duchies owing allegiance to Poland.
War soon broke out again, this time
between the Poles and the Swedes, and in
1621, the Swedes seized Rīga and northern
Latvia. The Duchy of Courland stayed in Polish
hands, although the dukes almost became
rulers in their own right. The most prominent
of them, Duke Jakob Kettler (r.1642–82),
brought the duchy to the pinnacle of its
wealth and power, even establishing short- Battle of Poltava, a work by M Lomonosov (1711–65)

1520
Lutheranism
established in 1572 First reference 1642–82 Courland flourishes
Estonia, and a to a synagogue 1600–29 Polish- under Duke Jakob Kettler
year later in Latvia in Vilnius Swedish War
1500 1550 1600 1650 1700
1536 First 1700–21 Great Northern
record of 1558–83 War between Sweden
Jewish merchants Livonian Wars and Russia
in Rīga between Sweden
and Russia
King Charles XII of Sweden (1682–1718)

38 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA


Army marched through Vilnius en route to
Moscow, and was greeted by the people
as libe rators. In the same year Napoleon
returned there, retreating ignominiously,
not because the Russians had fought him
success fully, but because they denied him
supplies. In a pre-emptive move, the
Russians burned down the wooden
suburbs of Rīga to give them a clear firing
line for defending the town. Eventually,
the French army was forced to retreat.
Tsar Alexander I, with a soldier holding the Imperial Standard
A Century of Uneasy Peace
Under Tsarist Rule Under Alexander I, a series of agrarian laws
Peter the Great treated his new conquests were passed. Serfdom was abo lished
with respect, as the Swedes had done before between 1816 and 1819, and peasants
him. He continued to give the local German were allowed to buy and sell land.
community considerable autonomy, both Civil unrest, however, came from the
with their trading rights in the towns and intelligentsia in the towns who were
with their manor houses in the countryside. dissatis fied with the religious domination
After his death in 1725, a unique century of of the Orthodox Church and the
peace followed. There were neither invasions increasing use of the Russian language.
nor local uprisings. The Jews (see pp40–41), Between 1830 and 1831, the movement
who had flourished under the Duchy of was at its strongest in Lithuania and one
Lithuania, gradually sprea ding into Latvia of the counter-measures taken by the
and parts of Estonia, continued to thrive. Russian authorities was to close Vilnius
By the 18th century, Vilnius had University in 1832, in the hope
become the Jewish capital of that this would quell the
Eastern Europe, and was referred unrest. In 1864, they resorted
to as Vilna. Under Catherine the to banning the publication of
Great (r.1762–96), the Russian books in Lithuanian using the
Empire expanded to include Latin alphabet; books were
Lithuania’s Grand Duchy, which now to be transcribed into
resulted from the third, and final, Cyrillic. This encouraged
partition of Poland in 1795. publishers in Prussia to
Tsar Alexander I (r.1801–25) was produce books in the Latin
forced to forsake his dreams of alphabet and to smuggle
reconstituting the Grand Duchy, them across the border. By the
An 1864 print in Lithuanian,
when, in 1812, Napoleon’s Grand using the Latin alphabet 1860s, nationalist movements

1721 Sweden 1812 Napoleon’s
surrenders Estonia failed attempt to
and Latvia to Russia conquer Russia
Napoleon Bonaparte (1769–1821)
1725 1750 1775 1800
1767 Completion of
Latvia’s Rundāle 1795 Lithuania absorbed
Palace under into the Russian Empire
Catherine the Great
Catherine the Great
(1729–96)

THE HIST OR Y OF EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 39


were equally active in Latvia and Estonia. War Returns
In 1869, the first Estonian Song Festival was Strikes and demonstrations took place in
held, and in the following year, the writer 1905 in many cities throughout Russia, to
Lydia Koidula produced her first play in pressurize the Tsarist regime to grant civil
Estonian, having previously only written in rights and improve social conditions. Given
German. It is significant that both events the size of its industrial workforce at this
took place in Tartu and not in Tallinn, where time, Rīga was an active parti cipant in this
German and Russian influence was still unrest. In the country side, the protests
too strong. The Latvian writer were directed against the German
Krišjānis Valdemārs also caused a landed gentry and manor houses all
stir in Tartu by printing his name- over the region were attacked.
card in Latvian. It was not until These were social rather than
1900, however, that Estonians, nationalistic movements, partly as
Latvians and Lithuanians could the Balts were now able to use their
freely proclaim their nation alities own languages openly and could
in their capital cities. also take part in local administration.
Latvian writer Krišjānis
In the 19th century, as in the Valdemārs (1825–91) National aspirations were, however,
18th, the Russians delegated forcibly dampened at the outbreak
local admin istration to the Germans. It was, of World War I (1914–18). The Russian
there fore, the Germans, and not the Revolution of 1917, which resulted in the
Russians, who gained from the com mercial collapse of Tsarist Russia and brought the
potential of mass production, railways and Bolsheviks to power, played a significant
steamships. Rīga and Tallinn expanded role in changing the course of the region’s
hugely as ports and manufacturing centres. history. The Civil War that followed soon
The pros pect of work drew many people after was seen as an opportunity for the
from rural areas into the larger towns. Baltic States to take control of their destiny.
















A turn-of-the-19th-century postcard impression of Rīga, one of Eastern Europe’s most vibrant cities


1854 Crimean War 1870 Tallinn–St
breaks out; British Petersburg 1917 Russian Revolution and
Navy blockades railway opens Civil War stimulate Baltic
Russian Baltic ports independence movements
1825 1850 1875 1900
1832 Russians close 1916
Vilnius University to 1899 First Baltic electric 1905 Urban and Election of
curtail spread of tram line opens in Liepāja rural attacks on first Latvian
nationalist ideas German and mayor
Liepāja tram 1 at Russian businesses of Rīga
Liela iela, Latvia

40 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA


Jewish History
The history of Jewish settlement in the Baltic region
began in the 14th century, when Grand Duke Gediminas
invited merchants and craftsmen into the Grand Duchy of
Lithuania. Estonia only ever had a small Jewish population,
while Jews arrived in Latvia in the 15th century, but were
only allowed to settle in Rīga much later. During World War
II, almost all Jews who did not flee were killed. Although
some returned, the Jewish communities today are
dwindling, partly due to emigration to Israel.
Jewish Vilna’s itinerant clothes-sellers,
photographed in 1915


The Gaon of Vilna
(1720–97) was
Lithuania’s most
famous Jewish scho lar,
whose writing and
research still guide
many in the Jewish
community today. In
1997, the celebration
of the bicentenary of
his birth brought
Litvaks, former
Lithuanian Jews, back
to Vilnius from all over
the world.



Jews in the Baltic Region
Banned from buying property and taking up
professions until the late 19th century, the Jewish
population lived largely as itinerant tradesmen
and market stall-holders. After World War I, they
were granted full rights as citizens. Until their
persecution by the Nazis in 1941, when Jews
were killed in large numbers, the Jews were
active in the professions, business and politics.














Rīga’s Great Choral Synagogue was built in 1869 for Children celebrating Purim were photo-
the city’s Jews, who thrived after the laws restrict ing graphed in 1933 in Vilnius. Purim, a joyful
Jewish residence were lifted in 1840. The site of a festival in the Jewish calendar, is still
Jewish massacre executed by the Nazis in 1941, the celebrated by the Jewish commu nity
synagogue no longer exists. in the Baltic region today.

THE HIST OR Y OF EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 41













Kenesa, a 20th-century synagogue in Trakai, is where
the Karaim (see p257) congregate. An ethnically Turkish
community from the northern shores of the Black Sea,
they first settled in Trakai in the 14th century.




The Makkabi Sports Association was
one of the Jewish organizations that
thrived in independent Latvia between
1920 and 1940, when the government
worked hard to eliminate anti-Semitism.















The Paneriai Holocaust Memorial (see
p248), just outside Vilnius, commemorates the
70,000 Jews who were murdered here during
the Nazi occu pation (1941–44). In Latvia,
66,000 Jews were massacred, while Estonia,
where 4,300 Jews lived prior to World War II,
was declared “Jew free”.





Tallinn’s Beit Bella
Synagogue was
opened on 16 May 2007.
The city had been with-
out a synagogue since
the destruction of an
earlier one during
World War II. Today, a
3,000-strong Jewish
Rīga’s Museum of the Jews in community lives in
Latvia documents 500 years of Estonia, while in Latvia
Jewish history in the region, and Lithuania, the Jews
and includes this poster used now number over 9,000
by anti-Semitic groups. and 4,000 respectively.

42 INTRODUCING EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA


to some extent by seizing Memel (Klaipėda)
in 1923 from French troops.
For the next 20 years, the three countries
operated in a very similar manner. Weak,
ever-changing govern ments in the 1920s
gave way in the 1930s to strong statesmen
who ran the state on Mussolini’s corporatist
model. Even though nobody in any Baltic
government had held a senior position
before independence, it was remarkable
what they were able to achieve in such a
Estonia’s Constituent Assembly in session, 1919 short period of time. In Estonia and Latvia,
the German estates were seized but the
Independence Declared many suc cessful urban businesses that had
As Western Europe welcomed peace in been established in the previous century
November 1918, the Baltic area was one were allowed to continue as before.
enormous battlefield. Anti-Bolsheviks still
hoped to overthrow the new Soviet regime, The Soviet Occupation
and the Germans wanted to make up for losses On 17 June 1940, the Baltic countries fell to the
in the West with victories in the East. The Poles Russians, as had been agreed in the Molotov-
were keen to form another commonwealth Ribbentrop Pact, a non-aggression treaty
with Lithuania. As a result, there was little signed between Germany and the USSR in
interest in supporting the declarations of 1939. All traces of the previous 20 years of
independence made by the three Baltic States independence were removed. Senior
early that year. Only a large British fleet, members of the three governments were
stationed off the Estonian coast, was happy executed. Flags, national anthems and Bibles
to supply arms to Estonia and Latvia and, were banned. The Soviet Union did not want
therefore, help them achieve independence. to be reminded of its failure to conquer the
By early 1920, Estonia and Latvia were Baltic States at the end of World War I. In
able to fight off all their June 1941, a massive
ene mies and get them to depor tation to Siberia was
agree to borders, which would organized of around 10,000
hold until 1940. Lithuania was Estonians, 15,000 Latvians
forced to give up Vilnius, after and 30,000 Lithuanians,
the Poles seized it later that most of whom died. A week
year. Subsequently, Kaunas later, Germany invaded the
was made the temporary Baltic States, violating the
capital. Lithuanians Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact.
The USSR and Germany signing the
compensated themselves Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact of 1939 Soviet forces, who called

1918 The three Baltic States 1939 Molotov- 1941 German occupation of 1956 Baltic deportees
declare independence
Ribbentrop Pact signed the Baltics begins allowed back
1922 Russia becomes between the USSR 1945 Soviet from Siberia
Soviet Union (USSR) and Germany reoccupation
1925 1935 1945 1955 1965
1920 Russia 1940 The three 1960 Foreign tourists are
recognizes inde pen- Baltic countries once more allowed to visit
dence of the three incorporated into the Baltic capitals
Baltic States the USSR
Soviet tanks in Rīga, 1940

THE HIST OR Y OF EST ONIA , LA T VIA AND LITHU ANIA 43













A chain of people joining hands to form the “Baltic Way” across the three Baltic States

themselves “liberators”, slowly reconquered “Baltic Way”, was formed across the three
most of the Baltic region during the autumn Baltic States to draw the world’s attention
of 1944, as they drove the Germans west- to their shared history of suffering.
wards. In anticipation of their return, many
locals fled to Sweden or Germany. Others Independence Returns
who stayed joined the partisans based in the Perestroika (reform) and glasnost (openness),
countryside. Known as the Forest Brothers, the two buzzwords of Mikhail Gorbachev’s
they were a very effective guerrilla force until regime (1985–91), had a dramatic effect in the
the mid-1950s, disrupting the Soviet Baltic region. Independence could be dis-
administration throughout the region. cussed openly and national flags reappeared.
All the links with the outside world were By 1990, independence for Estonia, Latvia
broken, including trading routes. and Lithuania could be predicted, but only in
Aware that it had only minimal popular the long term. However, its sudden arrival on
support, the Soviet govern ment knew that 21 August 1991, when an attempted coup in
the incorpora tion of the Baltic States could Moscow against Gorbachev failed, was unex-
only be achieved and main tained pected. During a 48-hour period of
with brute force. In each country, total uncertainty, the three Baltic
the Russian military occupied large States took the opportunity to declare
parts to which access was strictly indep en dence. Russia under Boris
controlled and all the paperwork Yeltsin did likewise, dissolving the
needed was only in Russian. The USSR. Suddenly, what had been
Russification policies followed by provincial backwaters became serious
the Tsars were enforced once again Soviet President European coun tries, with their own
in order to stamp out the national Mikhail Gorbachev airlines, currencies and embassies and,
identities of Estonia, Latvia and above all, recognition on a worldwide
Lithuania. They imposed such uniform ity that basis. In 2004, the three Baltic States joined
it became challenging for an outsider to the EU and NATO (North Atlantic Treaty
distinguish one Baltic State from the other. Organization), and by 2015, all had adopted
In 1989, a human chain, referred to as the the EU’s common currency, the euro.

1994 Last Russian troops
leave the Baltic region 2002 Eurovision 2015
Song Contest held Lithuania
1991 Independence 2011 Estonia joins the
restored to the three in Tallinn; a year joins the Eurozone
Baltic countries later in Rīga Eurozone
1975 1985 1995 2005 2015
1980 Moscow 1989 Two million people hold 2014 Latvia
Olympics sailing hands from Tallinn to Vilnius in a 2004 Baltic States joins the
events held chain known as the “Baltic Way” join EU and NATO Eurozone
in Tallinn
Coin issued in 1999 to mark the tenth anniversary of the “Baltic Way”



ESTONIA






Estonia at a Glance 46–47
A Portrait of Estonia 48–51
Estonia Through the Year 52–53
The History of Estonia 54–57
Tallinn 58–87
Western Estonia 88–105
Eastern Estonia 106–127

46 EST ONIA REGION B Y REGION


Estonia at a Glance
ESTONIA
The smallest of the Baltic States, Estonia is divided into
two geographical regions, Western Estonia and Eastern
LATVIA
Estonia. Apart from the hilly region in the southeast,
most of the country is low-lying and is punctuated with LITHUANIA
innumerable lakes and rivers. Estonia’s deeply indented
coastline and archi pelago of many islands offer some
dramatic scenery. The country is sparsely populated
and made up of forests, wet lands and peatbogs that
teem with wildlife.

Tallinn (see pp58–87), the
capital of Estonia, is among
the best-preserved historic
cities in Northern Europe.
The city is a compact and
harmonious blend of medieval
and modern architecture.
Maardu
Tallinn TALLINN
(see pp58–87)
Paldiski
Keila
0 km 30
0 miles 30 Kohila

Rapla
Paide
Märjamaa
Kärdla Haapsalu
Türi
Hiiumaa WESTERN ESTONIA
Island (see pp88–105)
Käina
Lihula Vändra
Muhu
Island
Pärnu Sindi
Saaremaa
Island

Kuressaare Kilingi-
Kihnu Nõmme
Island
Gulf of Rīga

Kuressaare
(see p98)



Pärnu (see pp102–3) is the summer capital of
Estonia, thanks to its pristine beach and relaxed,
resort-like ambience. It offers plenty to do and
see, and boasts some stunning architecture. It is
also close to Kihnu Island and two national parks.
The red roofs of Tallinn’s Old Town, with the industrial port beyond

EST ONIA A T A GLANCE 47













Lahemaa National Park (see pp110–13), the
largest national park in Estonia, has diverse
terrain criss-crossed by hiking trails. It is dot ted
with villages such as Palmse, whose manor
house contains the park’s information centre. Narva (see p116) has a fortified
medieval castle, which illustrates
that the largely Russian-speaking
city was at the frontline of regional
Gulf of Finland power struggles for centuries.
Narva
Jõhvi
Rakvere

Tapa



EASTERN ESTONIA Lake
(see pp106–127) Peipsi

Jögeva

Põltsamaa
Lake Peipsi (see p127) is a huge body of
water bordering Russia. A number of
Tartu settlements with wooden houses mark the
lakeshore. The Old Believers (see p126) live
in numerous little lakeshore villages
Lake
Viljandi
Võrtsjärv towards the north, while the Setu people
Elva
(see p124) live in the southern environs.
Põlva
Karksi-Nuia
Võru
Vastseliina
Valga



Tartu (see pp118–19), Estonia’s second-largest city,
is famed for its university and has an exciting
cultural and nightlife scene. One of its notable
sculptures is of an imaginary meeting between
English writer Oscar Wilde and Estonian writer
Eduard Vilde. The city rivals Tallinn in charm and
splendour, as well as historic significance.