(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Estonia Latvia & Lithuania

EASTERN LA T VIA  199


by the Italian artist Philippo of the family’s three manor hous­ the Latgale region and also
Kastaldi in the 18th century. es still stands but is in poor con­ serves as a good base for
dition. In the gatekeeper’s house, visiting the area’s lakes.
E Krāslava Museum the History and Applied Arts The best­known sight is
Pils iela 8. Tel 6562 3586. Open Museum (Preiļu vēstures un Latgales Māra, a statue created
10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat, lieņtišķ mākslas muzejs) has by Leons Tomašickis, which
10am–2pm Sun. & exhibits including old photo­ stands in the centre of a large
graphs of Preili and samples of round about on Atbrīvošanas
the pottery for which it is Avenue. The religious icono­
renowned. More local ceramics graphy of the statue depicting
can be found – and bought – at the pagan goddess Māra
the P Čerņavskis Pottery holding aloft a Christian cross
Workshop-Museum may be ambiguous but the
(P Čerņavska keramikas darbnīca­ politics are not: the plinth
muzejs). The late 19th­ simply reads “Vienoti
century Roman Catholic Latvija” (“United for
Church (Romas katoļu Latvia”). Unveiled in
bazīca) contains an 18th­ 1939, it commemo rates
century crucifix, and two the 1917 meet ing in
sculptures stand out­ Rēzekne which decided
side; one is dedi cated that Latgale would no
Dazzling exterior of the majestic to Mother Latvia and longer remain a part of
Aglona Basilica the other is a monument Russia’s Vitebsk province.
to the politically Jug, Latgale Culture and Removed by the
u Aglona repressed during the History Museum Russian authorities in
Soviet regime. 1940, the statue was
Road Map E4. @ from Rīga.
n Somersetas 34, 6532 2100. E History and Applied Arts reinstated by the occupying
_ Feast of the Assumption (15 Aug). German army. Destroyed in
Museum 1950, the statue was rebuilt by
Catholic pilgrims from across Raiņa 28. Tel 6532 2731. Tomašickis’s son after Latvia
the Baltic region and Russia Open 11am–6pm Tue–Fri, gained its indepen dence in
flock to this otherwise unre­ 10am–4pm Sat. & 1991. The inau guration of the
markable town to visit Aglona E P Čerņavskis Pottery replica took place in 1992.
Basilica and attend the Feast Workshop-Museum Just north of the statue is
of the Assumption. Lithuanian Talsu iela 21. Tel 2942 9630. the Latgale Culture and
members of the Dominican Open by appointment. History Museum (Latgales
Order were invited by a local R Roman Catholic Church kultūrvēstures muzejs), which
landowner to build a monas tery Tirgus laukums 11. Tel 6532 2041. focuses on the ceramics of the
and school in 1697. The basilica, Open by appointment. region, including tradi tional
then a church, was built in the branched candelabra. South of
18th century. Pope John Paul II the statue, on a small mound
declared it a basilica in 1980, o Rēzekne with excellent views of a
marking the 200th anniversary Road Map E4. * 37,000. £ from Catholic church, are the ruins
of its com pletion, and visited Rīga. @ from Daugavpils. n Krasta of the city’s castle.
it in 1993. The basilica is famous iela 31, 6460 5005. ∑ rezekne.lv
for its early 17th­century icon E Latgale Culture and
of the Virgin Mary, brought by Although most of its old History Museum
the Dominicans and said to buildings were destroyed Atbrīvošanas aleja 102. Tel 6462 2464.
have healing powers. It is during World War II, Rēzekne is Open May–Sep: Wed–Sun; Oct–Apr:
hidden behind a lesser icon, one of the cultural centres of Tue–Sat. &
which slides down only during
special services.

i Preiļi
Road Map E4. * 10,000. @ from
Rīga. n Kārsavas iela 4, 6532 2041.
∑ preili.lv
From about 1475 until 1866, the
market town of Preiļi was under
the control of the Borgh family,
who were originally from
southern Italy. The most recent Exhibits displayed inside the History and Applied Arts Museum, Preiļi




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200  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

t Daugavpils u Synagogue
Cietokšņa 42. Tel 6542 0092.
The second-most populous city in Latvia, Daugavpils is often Open by appointment.
regarded as a “Russian city” as the majority of its residents are Prior to World War I, over half
Russian. Its history can be traced to 1275 and a Livonian Order of the town’s population was
castle called Dinaburga. In the 16th century, a settlement Jewish. There were at one time
48 synagogues, of which only
grew on the banks of the Daugava river, and was occupied by one remains in use. It was
Poles, Russians and Swedes at various times. When the town renovated in 2006 with the
was developed into a Tsarist fortress in the early 19th century, help of Mark Rothko’s children,
civilians were relocated southeast to the land that today who had visited it in 2003, the
forms the city centre. An industrial hub for the erstwhile cen tenary of their father’s birth.
Soviet Union, Daugavpils has suffered from economic neglect R Cathedral of Sts Boris
since independence, though the city’s image is improving. and Glebe
Tautas iela 2. Tel 6545 3544.
This blue-and-white building,
resplendent with its ten golden
cupolas, is the largest Russian
Orthodox cathedral in the
country. Built in 1905, it is
named after the two saints on
whose feast day the Russian
army entered Daugavpils in
1656. The Russian name for the
town, Borisoglebsk, was also
taken from the saints’ names.
The icons and frescoes inside
were copied from those in
Sophia Cathedral in Kiev, Russia.
R Church of the Birth of
the Mother of God
Puškina 16a. Open services only. ^
A solid pink structure with
Stately exterior of the Museum of Regional Studies and Arts diminutive blue domes, this
Old Believers’ (see p126) church is
E Museum of Regional BC to the present day, but rarely open to the public. Visitors
Studies and Arts focusing on the period may, however, be able to look
Rīgas iela 8. Tel 6542 4155. between the second half of inside during services, when
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. & 8 the 18th century and 1918. candles are lit in front of the icons
= ∑ dnmm.lv Paintings by the city’s second- that line the walls. The solemn
Housed in an attractive build- most famous artist, Leonīds chanting of the congregation
ing dating from 1883, this Bauļins, occupy one room, adds to the atmosphere.
museum is dedicated to local while other rooms document
history from the 9th century regional flora and fauna.
Mark Rothko (1903–70)
The artist Mark Rothko was born Marcus Rothkowitz into a Jewish
family in Daugavpils at a time when the Russian Empire was scarred by
pogroms. His family emigrated to Portland,
Oregon, USA, in 1913. He received a
scholarship to study at Yale University, but
left after two years and trained in art in New
York. Rothko changed his name in 1940, and
by 1950 he had developed a unique style, in
which soft-edged rectangular forms are
aligned in front of coloured back grounds.
They are described as Abstract Expressionist,
although Rothko himself insisted that he
was interested in pure form. Following
Mark Rothko, Abstract an aneurysm and the breakdown of his
Expressionist marriage, Rothko committed suicide in 1970. Beautiful interior of the Cathedral of
Sts Boris and Glebe
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–303 and pp324–5


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EASTERN LA T VIA  201


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map E4. * 110,000.
n Rīgas 22a, 6542 2818.
∑ visitdaugavpils.lv
Transport
£ Rīgas iela. @ Viestura iela 10.
T Daugavpils Fortress
Cietokšņa iela. Tel 6542 4043. Open
24 hours. 8 Mark Rothko Art Centre:
Mihaila iela 3. Tel 6543 0279. Open
11am–5pm Tue & Sun, 11am–7pm
Wed–Sat. & ∑ rothkocenter.com
The construction of this walled
Russian fortress began in 1810
but was inter rupted when
Napoleon’s army attacked in July
1812. The moat encircling it once
contained tunnels that con-
nected it to the Daugava river,
but they have since been
blocked. The fortress served as
a German concentration camp
and was later occupied by the
Soviet Army until 1993. The Mark
Rose-coloured façade of Church of the Birth of the Mother of God Rothko Art Centre, located in
the former arsenal building,
R Martin Luther Church R Virgin Mary Catholic provides space for exhibitions
18 Novembra iela 66. Tel 2957 4349. Church and displays original works
Open Sun or by appointment. A Pumpura 11a. Open evening mass. by the world-famous artist,
This redbrick, Neo-Gothic According to local legend donated by his children. Guided
church dates from 1893 but has the daughters of a rich tours and maps are available
been completely reno va ted. merchant drowned in a lake from the renovated water tower
During the Soviet regime, it was on the spot where the church that now houses the fortress’s
used as a boxing gym. now stands. culture and information centre.

Daugavpils 0 metres 500
1 Museum of Regional Studies and Arts 0 yards 500
2 Synagogue
3 Cathedral of Sts Boris and Glebe
4 Church of the Birth of the Mother
of God A S IELA
5 Martin Luther Church Railway A PUMPURA IEL A KAU N VENTSPILS IELA
6 Virgin Mary Catholic Church Station VARŠAVAS IELA MIERA IELA PUŠKINA IELA
PĀRĀDES IELA SAKŅU IELA LAČPLĒŠĀ 18 NOVEMBRA IELA
Daugavpils Fortress and KRĀS LAVAS IELA Church of the Birth of TAUTAS IELA
Mark Rothko Art Centre STACIJAS IELA the Mother of God
RĪGAS IELA
1 km (0.6 mile)
VIESTURA
SAULES IELA IELA
Cathedral of
KAUNAS IELA
Station
Synagogue Bus Sts Boris and Glebe
Virgin Mary
Catholic Church
CIETOKŠŅA IELA
TEĀTRA IELA
Museum of RAIŅA IELA Martin Luther
Church
Regional Studies IMANTAS IELA
K VALDEMĀRA IELA
and Arts MIHOELSA IELA
RAIŅA IELA
DAUGAVAS IELA
18 NOVEMBRA IELA DZIRNAVU IELA DZELZCEĻU IELA
D a u g a v a
For keys to symbols see back flap
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202  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION


p Latgale Lakes

Latvia’s relatively hilly southeastern corner, known as the
Latgale Uplands (Latgales augstiene), is covered with a
patchwork of many lakes. On a sunny day it is easy to see
why this part is called the Land of Blue Lakes. Unfortunately,
public transport is limited here, although if time permits the
area can be explored by bus. The route also passes through
Rēzekne, where the tourist office can provide advice on
activities such as angling and bird-watching in the area, and
a trip to Ludza en route is also possible.
Lake Lubāns, one of Latvia’s favourite
spots for bird-watchers
8 Lake Lubāns 6 Musical Instruments
One of the best places for Workshop, Gaiglava
bird-watching and Visitors can watch
fishing in the Iča artisans at work
country, this is and learn to
Latvia’s lar- Īdeņa play traditional
gest lake by ins truments.
Lake
surface area. Lubāns
Žogotas
7 Teirumnīki Nagļi Dricāni
Malta
A boardwalk Ivgolova
circles the lake and Kantinieki
runs through a
swamp where Rēzekne Ludza 5 Rēzekne
cranberries grow. The cultural centre of
Skastagals Rēzekne
Latgale, Rēzekne is
Janopole
known for its
statue of pagan
Balbiši
goddess Māra.
Višķeri Lake
Rāzna Kaunata
Zosna
Lipuški
4 Lake Rāzna
The largest in Latvia by
3 Mākoņkalns volume, Lake Rāzna Andrupene
Cloud Hill, at 248 m (814 ft), is a offers a number of
popular viewpoint, with ruins decent accommo- Andeņi Lake
Ežezers
of a castle on the summit. dation options.
Dagda
2 Lielais Liepukalns
Key
At 289 m (948 ft), this hill is the 0 km
Tour route highest point in the region and 10
Other road the third-highest in the country. 0 miles 10
Tips for Drivers
1 Lake Ežezers
Starting point: Lielais liepukalns. Translated as
Length: 114 km (71 miles). “Hedgehog Lake”,
Stopping-off points: Rēzekne is Lake Ežezers is
an ideal stop. It is possible to stay consi dered one of
at Ežezers, Rāzna and Lubāns. the most beautiful
Driving conditions: Avoid lakes in Latgale. Its
driving around the western edge 36 islands can be
of Lake Rāzna in bad weather.
explored by boat.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–303 and pp324–5


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EASTERN LA T VIA  203


a Ludza with Ernst Glück (1654–1705), a
German Lutheran clergyman
Road Map E3. * 10,500. £ @
n Baznicas 42, 2946 7925. ( who was the first to translate
_ Ludza Town Festival (Aug). the Bible into Latvian. His home
has been turned into the Ernst
Perhaps the oldest town in Glück Museum of the Bible.
Latvia, Ludza traces its foun­ The Museum of Local Studies
dation back to about 1177. The and Art is housed in a manor
central square is home to the house built in 1861 for Baron
tourist information office and Vietinghoff. There are displays
the Orthodox Cathedral. on local history, arts and crafts,
The Handicrafts Centre and the museum can also
(Ludzas amatnieku centrs), close arrange excursions.
to the central square, has a
potter’s kiln and space for E Ernst Glück Museum
artisans. Visitors can participate of the Bible
in workshops by prior arrange­ Statue of Liena, heroine of Mērnieku laiki, Pils 25a. Tel 6432 3164. Open May–
ment. Handicraft objects are on in Vecpiebalga Oct: Tue–Sat; Nov–Apr: by
sale here as well. There is also a appointment. &
monthly food and crafts market. It occupies the summerhouse
The town’s Museum of Local of revolu tionary writer Kārlis
History (Ludzas novadpētniecības Skalbe (1878–1945). Further f Gulbene–Alūksne
muzejs) occupies the former villa along the road is the Janskola Narrow-Gauge
of Jakov Kulnev (1764–1812), a Museum, housed in the former
Russian war hero who lived in home of composer Emīls Railway
Ludza. The grounds contain late Dārziņš (1875–1910). The Road Map E3. Tel 6447 3037.
19th­ and early 20th­cen tury displays include works by _ Railway Festival (first Sat in Sep).
wooden buildings from various Latvian poet Janis Sudrabkalns ∑ visitgulbene.lv
parts of Latgale. (1894–1975).
This 33­km (21­mile) stretch
E Handicrafts Centre E Kaudzīte Brothers of railway track constitutes the
Tālavijas iela 27a. Tel 2946 7925. Open Memorial Museum only functioning narrow­gauge
Mon–Sat. ∑ ludzasamatnieki.lv Kalna kaibēni. Tel 2618 5382. Open railway within Latvia. The
mid­May–mid­Oct Wed–Sun. &
E Museum of Local History 90­minute journey has stops
Kulneva iela 2. Tel 6572 3931. en route, including Stāmeriena,
Open Mon–Sat. & which has a manor house,
d Alūksne and Umernieki.
The Ates Mill Museum is the
s Vecpiebalga Road Map E3. * 9,500. £ from primary incentive for visiting
Gulbene. @ from Cēsis. n Pils 25a,
Road Map D3. * 4,000. @ 6432 2804. ∑ visitaluksne.lv Umernieki. Around the mill
n 2611 0724. ∑ vecpiebalga.lv is an ethnographic museum,
In 1342, the Knights of the consisting of 13 buildings
With a history dating back to Sword built a castle on an island which have been brought from
the early 14th century, this in Lake Alūksne, after destroying around Vidzeme.
small town is famed as the the existing fortress. The
home of prominent cultural Swedish army demolished the E Ates Mill Museum
figures. Notable among them castle in 1702 rather than let it Ate, Kalncempji village. Tel 2940 0393.
were the brothers, Reinis fall into Russian hands. Alūksne Open Tue–Sun (Nov–Apr: closed Sun).
(1839–1920) and Matīss is best known for its association & 7 _ Harvest Festival (Sep).
Kaudzīte (1848–1926), who
wrote Mērnieku laiki (The Times
of the Land Surveyors). Among
the best­loved Latvian novels,
it is based on the sale of a
landlord’s estates to peasant
farmers. The authors’ home is
now the Kaudzīte Brothers
Memorial Museum.
Environs
There are other interesting sites
close to Vecpiebalga. The Kārlis
Skalbe Museum is about 4 km
(2 miles) from the town. Soviet-era steam engine locomotive at Gulbene railway station




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LITHUANIA





Lithuania at a Glance 206–207
A Portrait of Lithuania 208–211

Lithuania Through the Year 212–213
The History of Lithuania 214–219
Vilnius 220–251
Central Lithuania 252–271
Western Lithuania 272–289











































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206  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION

Lithuania at a Glance

An unblemished natural landscape of rolling hills, Lithuania
is blessed with thousands of lakes that create a complex ESTONIA
network of streams and rivers. In this low-lying, post-glacial
countryside, almost all the land lies at less than 200 m (656 ft) LATVIA
above sea level. The eastern half of the country is known as
the “highlands” and the western half the “lowlands”. The main LITHUANIA
features of the Lithuanian coast are its fascinating sandy
dunes and beaches. Despite Lithuania’s tumultuous history,
many of the country’s fine historic buildings have survived.
Hill of Crosses
(see p277)

Mažeikiai Naujoji
Skuodas Akmenė
Joniškis
Biržai
Kuršėnai Pasvalys
Palanga Telšiai Rokiškis
Plungė Šiauliai Pakroujis
WESTERN LITHUANIA Kupiškis
(see pp272–89) Radviliškis
Klaipėda Zarasai
Rietavas Panevėžys
Kelmė
Priekulė
Palanga (see p286) is a
popular beach resort that Šilalė Ramygala
draws hundreds of visitors Utena
each summer. Once a quiet Šilutė Raseiniai CENTRAL LITHUANIA
little fish ing hamlet, today (see pp252–271) Ignalina
it is a vibrant place filled Tauragė Kėdainiai
with innumerable Ukmergė Molėtai
bars and cafés.
Jurbarkas
Jonava
Pabradė
Šakiai
Kaunas
0 km 25
VILNIUS
0 miles 25
(see pp220–251)
Birštonas Vilnius
Trakai
Marijampolė
Kalvarija Alytus


Merkinė

Parnidis Dune towers over
the fishing village of Nida,
on the Curonian Spit (see
pp288–9). Views from the
summit take in both the
Baltic Sea and the Curonian
Lagoon and stretch
southwards to Kaliningrad.
Farm on the shore of the Nevis river at the archaeological site of Kernavė



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LITHU ANIA A T A GLANCE  207





Kernavė (see p258) is a
UNESCO World Heritage Site,
set in the Neris River Valley.
Once the capital of the
Grand Duchy of Lithuania, it
is now one of the largest
archaeological sites in the
Baltic region. The state
museum, estab lished here in
1989, was converted into a
cultural reserve in 2004.



Mažeikiai Naujoji
Skuodas Akmenė
Joniškis
Biržai
Kuršėnai Pasvalys
Palanga Telšiai Rokiškis
Plungė Šiauliai Pakroujis
WESTERN LITHUANIA Kupiškis
(see pp272–89) Radviliškis
Klaipėda Zarasai
Rietavas Panevėžys
Vilnius Cathedral (see
Kelmė
Priekulė pp228–9), a Neo-Classical
structure, houses the
Šilalė Ramygala lavish Baroque Chapel
Utena of St Casimir and a
Šilutė CENTRAL LITHUANIA crypt that provides an
Raseiniai (see pp252–271) Ignalina insight into Lithuania’s
Tauragė Kėdainiai complex history.
Ukmergė Molėtai
Jurbarkas
Jonava
Pabradė
Šakiai
Kaunas
VILNIUS
(see pp220–251)
Birštonas Vilnius
Trakai
Marijampolė
Kalvarija Alytus



Merkinė




Trakai Island Castle (see pp256–7), in the
picturesque village of Trakai, is a fairytale fortress that
makes a beautiful day-trip from the capital during
Pažaislis Monastery any season of the year. An optional trip by yacht or
(see p265) rowing boat rounds off the experience.




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A POR TR AIT OF LITHU ANIA  209

A PORTRAIT OF

LITHUANIA


The largest of the three Baltic States and one of the hidden jewels of Europe,
Lithuania takes pride in its relatively secluded landscape of clean lakes, ancient
forests and coastal dunes. The capital, Vilnius, which has a UNESCO-protected
Old Town, combines the romance of its breathtaking Baroque architecture with
the modern trappings of 21st-century Europe.
Lithuania successfully repelled Germanic teeming with wildlife. Excellent roads
inva ders as early as 1410 at the Battle of wind through attrac tive villages and
Grünwald. In the subsequent centuries, towns that are remarkably tranquil. A
how ever, the country experi enced a resurgence in the popularity of folk
tumultuous series of invasions. Most culture is colouring every corner of the
recently, the two world wars and the country, with wooden crosses, altars
massacre of one of Europe’s largest and shrines being crafted and folk
Jewish communities were followed by song and dance traditions being
the neglect of the Soviet era. explored. An explosion of printed and
Since its independence in 1991, electronic materials in Lithuanian, a
Lithuania has strived to restore its language related to Sanskrit, has taken
national identity. Vilnius possesses one place since the Singing Revolution
of Europe’s finest Old Towns, with (1987–90). At the same time, Lithuania
several Baroque master pieces. Across is forging a positive political and
the country, areas of serene natural cultural role for itself in the expanded
beauty have become protected reserves European Union.






























A sweeping view of Parnidis Dune, or the Great Dune, in the Curonian Spit National Park
Façade of Rokiškis Manor House, embellished with Neo-Baroque details



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210  INTRODUCING LITHU ANIA

Despite its pagan past, Lithuania has
a strong Catholic identity that sets it
apart from Estonia and Latvia, where
the Germans introduced Lutheranism.
The efforts of the Soviet authorities to
stamp out religious worship by
converting churches into warehouses,
cinemas, art galleries and museums,
destroying their interiors and depor ting
large numbers of priests to Siberia,
failed. As a result, only 10 per cent
of the people do not identify with any
religious group today. Religious groups
other than Catholics include Russian
Catholics worshipping the Virgin Mary in Vilnius Orthodox (5 per cent) and small
communities of Old Believers
Ethnic and Religious Identity and Lutherans.
Lithuania is the most ethnically
homogeneous of the Baltic countries. Politics
By staying largely agrarian it managed to Since regaining independence in 1991,
stem the incoming tide of large numbers Lithuania has vacillated between left-
of Russians and other nation alities whom and right-wing governments, while
the Soviet authorities wanted to man the struggling to find its feet on the
new factories being built across the Baltic international stage. Achieving the
region. Of its population of 3 million, goals of NATO and EU membership in
84 per cent are Lithuanian, while only 2004 was of huge significance for the
5.8 per cent are Russian and 6.6 per cent Baltic region, wrenching it away from
Polish. Other minorities include Russia’s influence. The impeach ment of
Belarusians and Ukrainians, as well as a President Rolandas Paksas for violating
small group of Tatars and Karaim. In Vilnius, the constitution, also in 2004, was the
the most ethnically diverse city, Russian climax of a wave of public scepticism in
and Polish can commonly be heard. politics. High-profile corruption cases























A Lithuanian folk dance group dressed in national costume




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A POR T AIT OF LITHU ANIA  211

farms have been turned into
attractive countryside farmsteads
pro viding tourist activities
and accommodation.

Modern Life
The countless art galleries
in the cities and towns reveal
the importance of art and
culture to Lithuania. The walls of
most households are adorned with
real paintings and graphics rather
Lithuanian president Dalia Grybauskaitė at a meeting in Vilnius than framed reproductions.
Cultural figures, such as M K
revealing how politicians have lobbied Čiurlionis and adored novelist and
on behalf of business int erests in painter Jurga Ivanauskaitė, have
exchange for money have created apportioned their skills to more than
the feeling that moral leader ship in one medium. Symphonies, cham ber
Lithuania is waning. Some politicians, concerts, classical ballet and opera
however, including current, two-time are performed regularly throughout
president Dalia Grybauskaitė, remain the country. On the stage, the dark,
untainted by scandal. post-industrial version of Hamlet, by
acclaimed theatre director Eimuntas
Economy Nekrošius, is one of the most popular
The Lithuanian economy is one of theatrical pieces.
the fastest-growing in Europe. A In sport, Lithuania has produced
dynamic private sector feeds strongly achievers such as the discus-thrower
on niche industries including laser Virgilijus Alekna and ice-dancer
optics and biotechnology, as well as Margarita Drobiazko, but basket ball
core indus tries such as construction remains its national obsession. While the
and energy. Lithuanian laser and Kaunas-based Žalgiris team and Vilnius-
biotech compa nies are among the based Lietuvos Rytas team dominate the
strongest in Europe. Lithuania’s largest domestic scene, the Lithuanian Olympic
company by turnover is the Mažeikių basketball team has put the country on
Nafta oil refinery near Mažeikiai. The the world sporting map.
Soviet-era Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant
has been decommissioned, but a new
nuclear power plant is likely to be
constructed to reduce reliance on
Russian energy.
Agriculture was rapidly privatized
following independence, and then
heavily subsidized once Lithuania
joined the European Union. Although
this has made much of the land more
productive, negative results include large
swathes of abandoned land and wide-
spread rural poverty. However, ways are
being found to invest in sustainable
industries such as tourism. Many small High-energy Euroleague basketball match




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212  INTRODUCING LITHU ANIA
LITHUANIA THROUGH

THE YEAR

Lithuanians celebrate a host of festivals of the country’s events, and it ranges from
where traditional events and folk culture classical, jazz and blues to electronic and
blend with ancient pagan and Catholic contemporary. Christmas is usually white
rituals. Most of the year’s events take place but the thick snows fail to thwart the
in summer, when after months of wintry merrymaking, which culminates in
gloom the country comes alive with music, New Year’s Eve celebrations. A number
dance, cinema, folk culture, handicraft and of commemorative days are observed in
food festivals. Music is at the centre of most addition to the traditional annual events.


Summer
The sultry Lithuanian summer
initiates great festivities. Classical
music takes prece dence in the
warm eve nings, along with jazz
and blues.
June
Cow-Swimming Festival,
Aukštaitija National Park.
A quirky custom where locals
dress in folk costumes and
watch as cows wearing
wreaths are led into a lake
to swim to the other side.
Kaziuko Crafts Fair, held every year to mark St Casimir’s Day Medieval Festival, Trakai.
Knights’ fights with swords
May and battleaxes are the
Spring
New Baltic Dance (early May), festival’s highlight.
Lithuanians welcome spring Vilnius and Klaipėda. This Joninės (24 Jun). The summer
with joyful celebrations. The eclectic event celebrates modern solstice is celebrated all over
warmer weather wakes the dance and theatre. Lithuania on St John’s Day.
country up to a new season Poetry Spring, Vilnius. An It is also known as Rasos,
of fairs and festivals. international poetry festival and meaning “of the dew”, for
the most outstanding annual dew’s healing pro perties.
March literary event in Lithuania. Pažaislis Music Festival (Jun–
Kaziuko Crafts Fair (4 Mar), Kaunas City Day (late May). A Aug), Kaunas. Hosted at the
Vilnius. A feast of traditional folk art fair with concerts, fun- Baroque Pažaislis Monastery, it
arts and crafts marking fairs and fireworks. stages music performances.
St Casimir’s Day, with stalls
selling all manner of curios. July
Cinema Spring (late Mar– Christopher Summer Festival
early Apr), Vilnius. One of the (Jul–Aug), Vilnius. A hugely
largest international film enjoyable musical fiesta with
festivals in the Baltic region, it performances at different
showcases the best foreign- venues all over the city.
language films of the year, most Statehood Day (6 Jul). Pomp and
with English subtitles. ceremony are the hall marks of this
national holiday dedicated to the
April coronation of King Mindaugas.
Garso Galerija, Vilnius. Varniai Blues Nights features
A festival of new electronic blues and jazz performers with
music, often featuring radical the isolated Lake Lukštas as
international songwriters. the backdrop.
Kaunas Jazz (late Apr). One of Sea Festival (late Jul), Klaipėda.
the best international jazz Local folk dressed in traditional costume, The freedom of the seas
festivals in the country. Kaunas City Day festival expressed in a carnival.




212_213.indd 212 15/02/17 10:15 am

LITHU ANIA THROUGH THE Y EAR  213


Vilnius Jazz (mid-Oct). Jazz,
blues and swing are per formed
by talented contemporary
Lithuanian musicians and
singers at this festival.

Winter
Lithuania looks stunning in winter
as it is often covered in a blanket
of snow. However, the chill does
not curb the festive spirit.
November
Scanorama (mid-Nov), Vilnius.
Guards at the Presidential Palace in Vilnius, on Statehood Day Scandinavian films take over the
capital’s multiplexes for this
August September annual 10-day film festival.
Christopher’s Guitars, Vilnius. Mushroom Festival (late Sep),
A festival featuring classical Varėna. A traditional festival December
guitar and flamenco concerts dedicated to mush rooms Christmas (24–26 Dec). The
as its highlight. that includes the Lithuanian festivities culminate in most
Mėnuo Juodaragis (late Aug). Mushroom-Picking homes with a 12-course meat-
Translated as “Black Horned Championship. free meal on Christmas Eve.
Moon”, this annual musical Fire Sculptures Festival Christmas Day is cele brated with
event of folk, metal and (21–23 Sep). Straw figures are mass in church, and concerts.
elect ronica is held in a different set alight at night in this festival New Year’s Eve (31 Dec).
location every 3 years. that honours Grand Duke Celebrations and parties take
Capital Days (late Aug–Sep), Gediminas and also cele brates place throughout the country,
Vilnius. A multi-art event during the autumn equinox. and at the stroke of midnight
which Gedimino Avenue is fireworks light up the sky.
flooded with crafts and food October
stalls, while the squares of Sirenos Theatre Festival January
central Vilnius become rock (Oct), Vilnius. Works by Epiphany (6 Jan), Vilnius. Shortly
and pop music venues. international and local artists after New Year, a colourful pro-
are showcased. cession of the Three Kings graces
International Festival of the streets of the Old Town.
Autumn
Modern Dance (early Oct),
Autumn, which is from mid- Kaunas. A festival of free-style February
September to December, is a contemporary dance, it attracts Užgavėnės (mid-Feb). People
visual treat. However, there are the best dancers from all over throughout Lithuania don
fewer annual events. the world. masks of witches, devils, goats
and other creatures and feast on
heartwarmingly rich food in this
farewell to winter.
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
Independence Day (16 Feb)
Restoration of
Independence (11 Mar)
Easter (Mar/April)
Labour Day (1 May)
Midsummer’s Day (23 Jun)
Joninės (24 Jun)
Statehood Day (6 Jul)
Assumption Day (15 Aug)
All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
Christmas (24–26 Dec)
Musicians jamming at the Vilnius Jazz festival




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214  INTRODUCING LITHU ANIA

THE HISTORY OF

LITHUANIA


Europe’s last pagan stronghold, Lithuania rose as a powerful state by the late 14th
century, surviving until the 16th century. It was thereafter subjugated first by the
Poles and then the Russians. The long periods of occupation endured by the
country stirred a reawakening of national identity in its people. An independent
republic, briefly created during the inter-war era, was finally established in 1991.


At the start of the 13th century, of Lithuania (see pp216–17), led by a
Lithuanian tribes, such as the dynasty established by Gediminas
Samogitians in the west and (r.1316–41). The crusaders
Aukštaitiai in the east, began to occupied the Grand Duchy for
unite in the face of regular 100 years, until they were finally
incursions by Germanic crusaders. and decisively defeated at the
The brutal attacks grew with Battle of Grünwald (Žalgiris) in 1410
increasing intensity before the 13th-century seal of the by the powerful allied armies of
resolutely pagan Samogitians Germanic crusaders Lithuania and Poland.
vanquished the Knights of the
Sword at the Battle of the Sun in 1236. Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
Grand Duke Jogaila (r.1362–1434) married
The Lithuanian Grand Duchy Jadwiga of Poland in 1386 and accepted
Duke Mindaugas (r.1235–63), who was Christianity, which led to mass baptisms
rapidly adding territory to his base in throughout Lithuania in the ensuing years.
Aukštaitija, united the tribes in
1240, crowning himself king in
1253. His acceptance of
Christianity to appease the
crusaders enraged the
Samogitians, who murdered him,
took over his land and reverted to
paganism. By the beginning of
the 14th century, large numbers
of crusaders returned from the
Middle East and joined the fight
against the pagan Grand Duchy Impression of the Union of Lublin by 19th-century artist Jan Matejko

King Mindaugas (c.1203–63)
1236 Samogitian 1253 Duke
victory at the Mindaugas 1386 Lithuania 1392 Grand Duchy of
Battle of the Sun crowned and Poland Lithuania reaches the
unite Black Sea
1200 1300 1400 1500
1240 Duke 1410 Battle of Grünwald
Mindaugas 1316 Accession 1382 Crusaders (Žalgiris) destroys the
unites Lithuania of Gediminas seize Samogitia Teutonic Knights






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THE HIST OR Y OF LITHU ANIA  215


The marriage formed a Polish-Lithuanian hand, were deprived of all political rights as
alliance that endured for centuries. This well as the right to own land, while the
proved particularly effective as peasants were forced to become
a bul wark against enemies in serfs, subject to severe punishment
the West and in the East. if they attempted to flee.
Under Grand Duke Vytautas The 17th century was a
(r.1401–30), Lithuania was able disastrous period for Lithuania, with
to extend its reach between misrule in Warsaw, plague and fires
the Baltic and the Black seas. in Vilnius and a calamitous invasion
Throughout the first half of by the Russians in 1655. Governed
the 16th century, however, a Portrait of Grand Duke Vytautas by a string of ineffective rulers and
on a tile
mili tant Russia compelled a noblemen who were either
stronger union between Lithuania and deliberately divisive or simply unin terested
Poland, cemented at the Union of Lublin in in state affairs, the steadily weakening
1569. The Commonwealth that resulted Commonwealth became, throughout the
lasted for over 200 years. 18th century, little more than a puppet state
to Tsarist Russia. In a series of partitions in
Decline of the Commonwealth 1772, 1793 and 1795, the vast lands of the
When King Sigismund Augustus (r.1548–72) Commonwealth were divided between
died without an heir, the combined Russia, Prussia and Austria, despite brave
position of Grand Duke of Lithuania and armed resistance by Lithuanian patriots.
King of Poland became an elected one, One such failed uprising was led by Jokūbas
chosen by the all-powerful nobility. Warsaw, Jasinskis (1761–94). By 1795, with the final
midway between the old capitals of Vilnius par tition of the Commonwealth, Poland and
and Kraków, became the base. Stefan Lithuania had ceased to exist.
Bathory (1533–86) was one of the
most successful of these elected
heads of state. Apart from founding
Vilnius University, he also introduced
sweeping military and judicial
reforms. During the Livonian Wars
(see p37), he successfully led a
decisive campaign against the
Russians, regaining control over
Livonia in 1582.
Under the Commonwealth, Poland
established its hege mony, with the
Poles domi nating the Lithuanian
nobility. The bourgeoisie, on the other Russians paying tribute to Stefan Bathory in a painting by Jan Matejko

1569 Union of Lublin creates Polish- Bronze doors of the Vilnius
Lithuanian Commonwealth
University library
1579 Vilnius’s academy assumes the
status of a university 1772 First partition of 1795 Final partition of
the Commonwealth the Commonwealth
1500 1600 1700 1800
1568 Jesuits 1793 Second Partition of the
found an 1655 Russian Commonwealth
academy army
in Vilnius sacks Vilnius
Coat of arms, Polish-
Lithuanian Commonwealth




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216  INTRODUCING LITHU ANIA

The Grand Duchy of Lithuania

Founded in the 13th century by King Mindaugas and TALLINN VELIKIY
strengthened further by Grand Duke Gediminas in the Baltic RĪGA NOVGOROD TVER
Sea
14th century, the Grand Duchy of Lithuania reached its VILNIUS Polatsk MOSCOW
greatest territorial extent under Vytautas the Great. Minsk Bryansk
Brest
Originally a defensive military union, the Duchy quickly CRACOW Chernigov
started expanding eastwards and southwards, eventually Lutsk Kiev Poltava
Bratslav
stretching across much of present-day Belarus and Ukraine. MOLDAVIA
KINGDOM
The Duchy was dominated in Vilnius by a military class that OF HUNGARY Black Sea
later became a privileged nobility. Vilnius flourished as the Key
capital of culture and architecture. Grand Duchy under Vytautas

The Battle of Grünwald
Nothing quite symbolizes the Grand
Duchy at the height of its achieve­
ments like Jan Matejko’s masterpiece,
painted in 1878. Vytautas the Great is
shown at the centre, victorious in the
Battle of Grünwald (Žalgiris) against
the Teutonic Knights in 1410. The
Knights were decisively defeated by
the combined armies of the Grand
Duchy and Poland, led by Vytautas
and King Jogaila, respectively.













Grand Duke Gediminas (1275–1341)
extended the Duchy’s borders, moved
the capital to Vilnius and built a
powerful chain of defensive fortresses.
Albert II Radvila (1595–1656), who
was descended from a long line of
influential nobles, effectively ruled
the Grand Duchy as Grand
Chancellor of Lithuania within the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.




Grand Duke Vytautas (1350–1430),
shown here in a 17th-century portrait,
is today revered as a national hero.
Under his reign, the Grand Duchy grew
to its greatest geographical extent,
covering swathes of land between the
Baltic and Black seas.




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THE HIST OR Y OF LITHU ANIA  217


Surviving the Centuries
Artifacts found during excavations of the remains of the Royal
Palace in Vilnius include decorative tiles, coins and exquisitely
crafted jewellery. While the tiles and coins date from the 16th
century, some of the jewellery dates back to the 14th century.
The collection is likely to go on display once the newly
reconstructed palace is completed.






Tile, 16th century Coin, 16th century

Vilnius University, which the
Jesuits had founded as an academy
in 1568, was upgraded to a
university 11 years later by Stefan
Bathory (1533–86), the Grand Duke
of Lithuania and King of Poland.
















The icon of the Virgin Mary at the
Gates of Dawn in Vilnius is a fine
example of religious painting from
the period. It was originally pain ted
on oak panels in the 1620s.


Grand Duke Vytautas The first book printed in the
Lithuanian language was
Catechism (1547) by Martynas
Mažvydas. Appearing in the
Duchy at a time when Polish
was the preferred language of
the aristocracy, the book had a
great appeal for the pagan
rural masses.


The Christianization of Lithuania took place in
1387, following the union of Lithuania and
Poland. However, unlike the dramatic mass
conversion depicted in this 19th-century paint ing
by Jan Matejko, many parts of Lithuania remained
pagan into the 16th century.




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218  INTRODUCING LITHU ANIA


which involved a conscious
eradication of all traces of traditional
Lithuania. Catholic churches were
converted to Orthodox ones and
Lithuanian-language books in the
Latin alphabet were banned.
However, language and identity were
kept alive by smuggling books in from
East Prussia as well as the printing and
cir culation of the first Lithuanian-
Napoleon’s Grand Army crossing the Nemunas river in 1812 language newspapers, Aušra (Dawn)
and Varpas (Bell).
Tsarist Russian Rule
More than 120 years of occupation followed Nationhood Regained, and Lost
the break-up of the Commonwealth, with As the chaos of World War I and the 1917
most of the land once governed by the Revolution weakened Russia, an elected
Grand Duchy of Lithuania now absorbed council in Vilnius declared Lithuanian
into the Russian Empire. Resistance independence on 16 February 1918.
constantly simmered under the surface, International rec ognition was slow in
however, and hopes of independence were coming. In October 1920, Józef Piłsudski
revived when Napoleon marched through (1867–1935), the nationalist head of state of
Kaunas and Vilnius in June 1812. Poland, which had also regained
These hopes were crushed six its independence in 1918, sent
months later when the an army to occupy Vilnius. The
demoralized, half-frozen remnants Lithuanian government was,
of the French Grand Army retreated therefore, forced to re-establish
from Moscow through Vilnius. itself in Kaunas. Vilnius was
When a rebellion led mainly by indisputably Lithuania’s
the rural nobility failed in 1831, historical capital, but by now,
repressive measures were launched almost half of the city’s
such as the closure of Vilnius population was Jewish, and the
University and the enforced use of other half consisted of Polish-
Russian in Lithuanian schools. Even speakers. Kaunas was declared
harsher oppression followed President Antanas Smetona Lithuania’s temporary capital
another rebellion in 1863, with over (r.1926–40) and remained so until 1939. An
100 of the resistance leaders hunted element of pride was restored
down and hanged, while others were when Lithuania snatched control of Memel
deported with their families to Siberia. The from a caretaker French garrison in early
Russification of the whole country followed, 1923 and renamed it Klaipėda.


1812 Napoleon’s 1832 Russians close 1918 Lithuania
advance and down Vilnius Dr Jonas Basanavičius, one of the declares
disastrous retreat University independence
signatories of the Lithuanian
Independence Act
1815 1855 1895
1863 Lithuanian 1866 Ban on Lithuanian-language books in 1926 President
1831 Rebellion rebels persecuted the Latin alphabet; 40 years of book- Smetona
against by Russia smuggling from East Prussia begins seizes power
Tsarist rule





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THE HIST OR Y OF LITHU ANIA  219

The Republic of Lithuania
In 1988, encouraged by the greater
openness of Soviet premier Mikhail
Gorbachev’s reforms, a group of
intel lectuals founded the Sąjūdis
movement to rally popular support for the
demonstrations that had begun the previous
year. The response was immediate. Peaceful
protests increased and, on 11 March 1990,
Lithuania declared its independence, the
first of any of the Soviet republics to do so.
In January 1991, Soviet tanks and troops
Adolf Hitler entering Klaipėda in 1939 stormed the Vilnius TV Tower, killing
14 unarmed civi lians and injuring 700.
Independent Lithuania was led, between In August 1991, the failure of the
1926 and 1940, by the authoritarian Antanas hardliners’ putsch in Moscow finally gave
Smetona. For Lithuanians, this was a time of Lithuania freedom. The first presidential
grow ing prosperity as agricultural exports elections brought Algirdas Brazauskas to
boomed. However, they were also uneasy power. Several years of economic hardship
years, as the resurgent powers of Germany followed. Lithuania’s EU and NATO
and Russia loomed on either side. Klaipėda membership in 2004 has brought the
was retaken by the Nazis in 1939 and the country far greater security and prosperity.
Red Army occu pied the rest of Lithuania It also adopted euro in 2015.
following an ultimatum from Moscow in
1940. The Red Army carried out mass
depor tations and horrific massacres. The
reign of terror continued under the Nazis,
who, in June 1941, launched Operation
Barbarossa, the code name for Germany’s
invasion of the Soviet Union. An estimated
200,000 people, most of them Jews, were
taken out side virtually every town and city
to be executed. In 1944, as part of its Baltic
Offensive, the Red Army pushed back
through Lithuania. Over the next 10 years,
between 120,000 and 300,000 people were
deported to the Siberian Gulags. A brave,
but futile, partisan war was fought from the
Lithuanian forests until the early 1950s. A Lithuanian independence rally in 1989, Kaunas

1990 Declaration
1939 Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact places
Lithuania under Soviet control 1988 Sąjūdis of independence
movement
founded 2004 Lithuania joins NATO;
1941 Nazi Operation
Barbarossa launched becomes member of EU
1935 1975 2015
1944 1955 Partisan war 2015 Lithuania
1926 President Soviets against Soviet adopts the euro as
Smetona reoccupy occupation dies away its national currency
seizes power Lithuania 1991 Bloody assault
on Vilnius’s TV Tower
Vilnius’s TV Tower



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LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION  221

VILNIUS


Whether viewed from one of the hills that overlook the Old Town or
from one of the many pavement cafés with tall spires rising all
around them, Vilnius is unmistakably a city of great beauty. The
Old Town, on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1994, blends
Gothic and Neo-Classical styles with a breathtaking late flourish
of Baroque. Vilnius is in itself an architectural monument.

The character of Vilnius, the Lithuanian rebuild the city resulted in the rich
capital, has been retained partly because offshoot of the Baroque style that is
of its isolated location. Yet, the ebb and typical of its architecture today.
flow of history has given it a more Vilnius regained its status as the
multicultural feel than the country’s capital of Lithuania in 1918, but only
other cities. for a year. Occupied by Poland, with
The earliest written refer ence to Vilnius Lithuania’s government forced to
exists in a letter from Grand Duke relocate to Kaunas, it declined in
Gediminas in 1323, inviting citizens from economic importance until the
towns in Germany to settle here, Soviets invaded it in 1939. World War II
pledging freedom from taxes and devastated Vilnius and annihilated
granting other rights. Pagan Vilnius most of its Jewish population, but
sustained many attacks during the under the ensuing Soviet occupation
Northern Crusades, yet by the 14th the city expanded.
century it had become the capital of an Vilnius has been transformed from a
empire that stretched from the Baltic Sea sleepy backwater to a lively, modern
to the Black Sea. Vilnius was reduced to European capital that provides a
the status of a provincial city in the wonderful setting for shopping, dining
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, but and nightlife. However, with Vilnius
following a period of devastating wars, University, Town Hall Square and several
invasions and fires between the early carefully restored churches, the city has
17th and mid-18th centuries, efforts to retained its charm.























Colourful mural by Antanas Kmieliauskas decorating the ceiling of Vilnius University’s bookshop, Littera
Bronze doors of Vilnius University Library



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222  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Vilnius

Although its Old Town is one of the largest in Europe, Vilnius is a
surprisingly compact city that can easily be explored on foot.
Two of the best places to begin a tour of
the Old Town and its Baroque treasures
are Vilnius Cathedral in the north and
the Gates of Dawn in the south.
Gedimino Avenue, the main
shopping street where the KGB VASARIO 16-OSIOS GATVĖ
Museum is located, stretches west A R S E N A LO G ATV Ė
from Cathedral Square, while the
Church of St Anne lies imme diately G E D I M I N O P R O S P E K T A S GEDIMINO PROSPEKTAS T VRUBLEVSKIO GATVĖ
to the east of the Old Town. Vilnius P A M Ė N K A L N I O G AT V Ė A S M E T O N O S G AT V Ė T I L T O G A T V Ė
is also a good base for exploring J O G A I LO S G AT V Ė
much of Central Lithuania. TAU R O G AT V Ė V I L N I A U S G AT V Ė G AT V Ė


AIKŠTĖ
LABDARIŲ O D M I N I Ų G AT V Ė KATEDROS
L STUOKOS
GATVĖ
T O T O R I Ų GUCEVIČIAUS GATVĖ
I S L A N D I J O S
S SKAP O G AT VĖ V i l n i a
LIEJYKLOS GATVĖ
P I L I E S G AT V Ė
K K A L I N A U S K O G AT V Ė B E R N A R D I N Ų G AT V Ė
GATVĖ
ŠV IGNOTO
Š V J O N O G AT V Ė
KLAIPĖDOS GATVĖ
LATAKO GATVĖ
GATVĖ
VILNIAUS
P Y L I M O G AT V Ė
TRAKŲ GATVĖ S T I K L I Ų G AT V Ė
ŠVARCO GATVĖ
U N I V E R S I T E T O G AT V Ė Š V ENTARAGIO G A T V Ė B RADVILAITĖS GATVĖ M A I R O N I O
Outdoor cafés along cobblestoned Pilies Street, Old Town PRANCIŠKONŲ GAT V Ė V O K I E Č I Ų B G AT V Ė
Sights at a Glance LY D O S G AT V Ė ŠV MIKALOJAUS G AT V Ė D I D Ž I O J I G AT V Ė SAVIČIAUS GATVĖ O K Š T O G AT V É
Churches w Lithuanian National Museum ŽEMAITIJOS GATVĖ GATVĖ AUGUSTIJONŲ
2 St John’s Church e Applied Arts Museum M E S I N I U G AT VĖ
5 Church of St Paraskeva o Mickiewicz Museum LIGONINĖS GATVĖ ŠIAULIŲ Š V K A Z I M I E R O G AT V Ė M A I R O N I O G AT V Ė
8 Vilnius Cathedral pp228–9 a Čiurlionis House R Ū D N I N K Ų G AT V Ė
t Holy Mother of God Church d Contemporary Art Centre P Y L I M O G AT V Ė
y Bernardine Church l Kazys Varnelis Museum A R K L I U G AT V Ė S U B A Č I A U S G AT V Ė S U B A Č I A U S G AT V Ė
u Church of St Anne n Theatre, Music and Film
i Church of St Michael Museum A U Š R O S VA R T Ų G AT V Ė
p Orthodox Church of St Nicholas , State Jewish Museum
f Church of St Casimir . Holocaust Museum
h Church of the Holy Spirit ! KGB Museum
j Church of St Theresa Sights of Interest M D A U K Š O S G AT V Ė
x Church of St Nicholas B A Z I L I J O N Ų G AT V Ė
c Franciscan Church 1 Vilnius University 660 m (720 yards) Railway Station
Bus Station
550 m (600 yards)
v Dominican Church 3 Presidential Palace s Town Hall Square Vilnius International Airport
b Church of St Catherine 6 House of Signatories g Basilian Gate 6 km (4 miles)
9 Cathedral Square k Gates of Dawn
Museums and Galleries 0 Lower Castle z Artillery Bastion
4 Vilnius Picture Gallery q Upper Castle m Radvila Palace
7 Šlapelis House Museum r Hill of Three Crosses / Frank Zappa Statue
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


222-223_ExploVil.indd 222 15/02/17 10:15 am

VILNIUS  223

Key
Place of interest
Pedestrian street





VASARIO 16-OSIOS GATVĖ A R S E N A LO G ATV Ė

T VRUBLEVSKIO GATVĖ


TAU R O G AT V Ė P A M Ė N K A L N I O G AT V Ė A S M E T O N O S G AT V Ė J O G A I LO S G AT V Ė V I L N I A U S G AT V Ė T I L T O G A T V Ė


G E D I M I N O P R O S P E K T A S GEDIMINO PROSPEKTAS
AIKŠTĖ
LABDARIŲ G AT V Ė O D M I N I Ų G AT V Ė KATEDROS
L STUOKOS
GATVĖ
T O T O R I Ų GUCEVIČIAUS GATVĖ
I S L A N D I J O S
S SKAP O G AT VĖ V i l n i a
LIEJYKLOS GATVĖ
P I L I E S G AT V Ė
K K A L I N A U S K O G AT V Ė B E R N A R D I N Ų G AT V Ė
GATVĖ
ŠV IGNOTO
Š V J O N O G AT V Ė
KLAIPĖDOS GATVĖ
LATAKO GATVĖ
GATVĖ
VILNIAUS
P Y L I M O G AT V Ė
TRAKŲ GATVĖ V O K I E Č I Ų S T I K L I Ų G AT V Ė G AT V Ė
ŠVARCO GATVĖ
U N I V E R S I T E T O G AT V Ė Š V ENTARAGIO G A T V Ė B RADVILAITĖS GATVĖ M A I R O N I O
D I D Ž I O J I G AT V Ė B
LY D O S G AT V Ė SAVIČIAUS GATVĖ O K Š T O G AT V É 0 metres 200 200
ŠV MIKALOJAUS G AT V Ė
PRANCIŠKONŲ GAT V Ė
0 yards
M E S I N I U G AT VĖ Š V K A Z I M I E R O G AT V Ė M A I R O N I O G AT V Ė
GATVĖ
ŽEMAITIJOS GATVĖ
AUGUSTIJONŲ
R Ū D N I N K Ų G AT V Ė
ŠIAULIŲ
A R K L I U G AT V Ė A U Š R O S VA R T Ų G AT V Ė S U B A Č I A U S G AT V Ė S U B A Č I A U S G AT V Ė
LIGONINĖS GATVĖ
P Y L I M O G AT V Ė
M D A U K Š O S G AT V Ė Getting Around
B A Z I L I J O N Ų G AT V Ė
Bus Station Railway Station Walking is the best way to explore the Old
660 m (720 yards) 550 m (600 yards) Town. Cycling is another popular way of
Vilnius International Airport getting around the area. Bicycles can be
6 km (4 miles) rented from the tourist office in the Old Town.
Outlying sites, such as the TV Tower and
Puškin Museum, can be reached by bus or
trolleybus, but others, for example Verkiai Palace,
are more easily reached by car or taxi.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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224  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION

Street-by-Street: Pilies Street and
Vilnius University Applied Arts
Museum lies inside
Narrow lanes, hidden courtyards and some of the Old Town’s finest the Old Arsenal.
architecture make Pilies Street and nearby Vilnius University a delight to
stroll around and explore. The university, which is over 400 years old, is
one of the oldest in Eastern Europe. Traffic is restricted, and in summer
restaurants and cafés spill out onto the streets. Souvenir stalls and
shops on Pilies sell amber and interesting gifts, while the
surrounding buildings are testimony to the city’s long and
eventful history.


q Upper Castle
The best visual
introduction to Vilnius
is from the viewing
platform on the
castle’s last sur viv ing
tower. The Lithuanian
flag was raised here in
1919 and in 1988.





0 Royal Palace
Also known as the Lower
Castle, it was the main
residence of the Grand
Dukes and was the
political and cultural
heart of Lithuania. P I L I E S G AT V Ė





8 Vilnius Cathedral
The austere Neo-Classical exterior of
Lithuania’s main basilica belies its
hidden jewels, which include the U N I V E R S I T E T O
Baroque Chapel of St Casimir and the
winding passages of the crypt.
G A T V Ė











3 Presidential Palace
A 14th-century nobleman’s residence, this building
Key
has hosted many historical figures. It became the
Suggested route Presidency in 1997.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


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VILNIUS  225

. Pilies Street
With a view of the Upper
Castle ever present, Pilies
is one of the city’s oldest
streets. It was once
Vilnius’s commercial
centre but today the
street is popular with
visitors hunting for
amberware and other
local products. Locator Map
See Street Finder Map pp250–51







0 metres 100
0 yards 100











u Church of St Anne
B E R N A R D I N Ų G A T V Ė The flamboyant Gothic redbrick church fell
victim to Napoleon’s soldiers, who used it
as a barracks on their way to Moscow in
Š V . M Y K O L O G A T V Ė survived the turbulent centuries.
1812. Fortunately, the beautiful façade has


P I L I E S G AT V Ė






St John’s Church has a
U N I V E R S I T E T O

sweeping Baroque
façade.
Littera Bookshop
This charmingly decorated bookshop at the
eastern edge of the university’s Sarbievijaus
G A T V Ė
Courtyard also sells university souvenirs.



1. Vilnius University
Lithuania’s largest university, it occupies a
sizeable part of the Old Town. The university has
over 13 courtyards and multiple buildings.




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226  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION

1 Vilnius University removed during further rebuil­
Vilniaus universitetas ding in the 19th century. At
68 m (223 ft), the bell tower,
Universiteto 3. Map 2 D3. Tel 268
7001. Open 10am–5:30pm Mon–Sat. which was given two extra
8 for prior booking call 268 7103. = tiers by Glaubitz, is the tallest
∑ vu.lt structure in the Old Town. A lift
runs to the top, from where
The oldest university in Eastern there are fine views.
Europe was founded as a
Jesuit College in 1568, before 3 Presidential
becoming a school of higher
education in 1579. The current Palace
campus, constructed between Lietuvos respublikos prezidentūra
the 16th and 18th centuries, is a Daukanto aikštė 3. Map 2 D3.
combination of different Tel 266 4154. Open 9am–5pm Sat
architectural styles. Façade of St John’s Church and the (call in advance). 8 for group tour
The most impressive of the adjacent belfry call 266 4073. ∑ president.lt
university’s 13 courtyards, the
Great Courtyard has open 2 St John’s Church Formerly a residence for high­
galleries dating from the Šv Jono bažnyčia ranking bishops, this ornate
17th century, which were Šv Jono 12. Map 2 D3. Tel 261 1795. building has existed since
later lined with dedications Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat. 5 6pm Lithuania’s conversion to
to professors. Accessed via a Tue–Thu, 11am & 1pm Sun. Christianity at the end of the
passage from the western 14th century. The palace was
side of the Great Courtyard, At the southern edge of the rebuilt in the late 1820s in the
the Observatory Courtyard by university campus, the impres­ Neo­Classical style by Vasily
contrast is a serene enclosed sive façade and separate bell Stasov (1769–1848), an architect
garden from which the tower of the Church of St John from St Petersburg. It has
observatory and its zodiac the Baptist and St John the hosted a number of impor tant
symbols can be seen. Evangelist dominate the Great personalities, including
North of the Great Courtyard Courtyard. The original Gothic Napoleon Bonaparte and Tsar
is the Sarbievijaus Courtyard, church, built here in 1426, was Alexander I. The former used
the oldest part of the univer sity. reconstructed in 1749 in the palace during his doomed
At its far end, a bookshop, flamboyant Baroque style by advance on Moscow.
Littera, can be found. The Jan Krzysztof Glaubitz (see p237). The palace was later used for a
frescoes caricaturing professors The 10 magnificent altars in faux variety of ceremonial purposes
and students that decorate the marble with Corinthian columns before becoming the Presidential
interior of the bookshop were illuminate the otherwise austere Palace in 1997. When the presi­
painted in 1978 by Antanas interior. Initially there were 22 dent is in Vilnius, a flag flies
Kmieliauskas (b.1932). columns, most of which were showing his coat of arms.
























Colourful interior of Littera, with its collection of books for leisure and study material, Vilnius University
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


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VILNIUS  227

















Elegantly displayed paintings in one of the exhibition rooms, Vilnius Picture Gallery
4 Vilnius Picture Peter the Great baptized a nine- of Lithuania signed the deed
Gallery year-old African slave by the that restored Lithuania’s
Vilniaus paveikslų galerija name of Hannibal, later Major- independence. The Štralis
General Abram Petrovich Coffee House on the ground
Didžioji 4. Map 2 D4. Tel 212 4258. Hannibal (1696–1781), great- floor, created during reno vation
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat, noon– grandfather of the Russian poet in the 1890s, was a popular
5pm Sun. & 8 = ∑ ldm.lt Alexander Pushkin. The current meeting place for leading
building, designed by Nikolai figures in the Lithuanian
The imposing, enclosed Neo- Chagin, dates from 1865. Closed national revival.
Classical courtyard of this gallery during the Soviet period, it has The second-floor room,
offers a reflection of 19th-century been returned to the Russian where the independence
Vilnius, when these premises Orthodox faith. act was signed, has been
were used by Vilnius University re-created. Unfortunately,
and the Medical Academy. Inside, the displays on this historic
the paintings on display show event are a little sparse.
how the main art movements of
the 19th and early 20th centuries 7 Šlapelis House
influenced the development of
Lithuanian art. Lithuanian Girl Museum
with Verbos by Kanutas Ruseckas Šlapelių namas-muziejus
(1800–60) is an icon of the Pilies 40. Map 2 D4. Tel 261 0771.
Romantic aesthetic in Lithuanian Open 11am–5pm Wed–Sun (call in
art. Similarly, the later move- advance). 8 ∑ vilniausmuziejai.lt
ments of Realism and
Impressionism are reflec ted, Presenting a journey back in
respectively, in intimate portraits, time to Vilnius during the
such as Alfredas Romeris’s Study troubled first half of the 20th
of a Girl’s Hands, and open century, this modest, yet
landscapes, such as Juozas evo cative, museum is dedicated
Balzukevičius’s Across a Ryefield. to Marija and Jurgis Šlapelis.
Although a native Polish-
5 Church of The small Russian Orthodox Church of speaker, Marija secretly ran a
Lithuanian-language book shop
St Paraskeva St Paraskeva on nearby Domininkonų Street
Šv Paraskevos cerkvė while the city was under
Didžioji 2. Map 2 D4. Tel 215 3747. 6 House of Russian, Polish, Nazi and Soviet
occupations between 1906
Also known as Pyatnitskaya Signatories and 1949.
Church, this attractive little Signatarų namai On display are furnishings,
Orthodox church stands on a Pilies 26. Map 2 D3. Tel 231 4437. newspapers, books, music
site that has been used for rituals Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. 8 - sheets and postcards from
and prayer for many centuries. this time. In addition, photo-
In the mid-14th century, Grand The House of Signatories, with graphs showing a number
Duke Algirdas built a church an extravagant façade, has of family reunions following
here for his Orthodox wife, played a crucial role in the end of Soviet occupation
before which it had been a Lithuania’s modern history. It can be found beneath 17th-
pagan sanctuary. Here, at the was here that, on 16 February century beams in what used
beginning of the 18th century, 1918, the newly created Council to be the kitchen.




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228  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION

8 Vilnius Cathedral
Vilniaus arkikatedra bazilika
Having taken various guises since it was first built as a
Christian church on the site of a pagan temple in 1251, Vilnius
Cathedral today largely dates from the late 18th century.
The young architect, Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius, brought
the fashionable French Classicist style to Baroque Vilnius, his
idea for the cathedral exterior and interior being a visual
re-creation of a Greek temple. Vilnius Cathedral was closed by
the Soviets in 1950 and initially mooted for use as a garage
for truck repairs. In 1956, however, it opened as a picture Valavičius Chapel
gallery. It was eventually returned to the Catholic Church in Members of the Valavičius family
1989 and reconsecrated a year before were governors and bishops of
Vilnius. Their lavish chapel was
independence was declared. created in the early 17th century.













Stucco Sculpture
A sculpture depicting a
bird sacrifice can be
seen on the
tympanum of
the façade.













The entrance
is via a huge
Classical portico.





Wall Painting of the
Crucifixion
The oldest surviving fresco Statue of Luke, the Evangelist
in Lithuania, dating from Of the statues of the Four
the 14th century, can be Evangelists on the southern façade,
found in the crypt. It was Luke appears with a bull, which is a
discovered in 1925. symbol of service and sacrifice.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


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VILNIUS  229

High Altar
The marvellously VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
intricate tabernacle door
on the High Altar, which Practical Information
was created in the 1620s, Katedros aikšė 1. Map 2 D3.
is fashioned from gold Tel 261 0731. Open 7am–7pm
and silver. Two biblical daily. 8 guided tour mandatory
scenes, the Last Supper to visit the crypt. Enquire at the
and Christ Washing the souvenir shop at the cathedral’s
Disciples’ Feet, are northern entrance for timings
beautifully depicted and prices. =
on the panel.





















. St Casimir’s Chapel
Italian masters created this
superb chapel, one of the major
Baroque jewels of Vilnius, from
1623 to 1636. Its main highlights
are the marble columns,
magnificent stucco figures and
colourful frescoes.





St Casimir (1458–84)
Casimir was the second
son of a Grand Duke,
whose siblings became
kings and queens of
European states
through lineage and
marriage. Pious Casimir
shunned the luxuries of
court life and would
often go to the cathedral
to pray. When he died of
tuberculosis aged 25, it was
rumoured that his coffin
could cure disease. A fresco
. Crypt in St Casimir’s Chapel shows
A sombre mausoleum holds the remains of two how a sick orphan, who
Grand Dukes and two wives of Sigismund prayed beneath the coffin, Richly decorated altar of
Augustus (r.1548–72), the last descendant of was miraculously cured. St Casimir’s Chapel
Gediminas (r.1316–41).




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230  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION


the resi dence of the viewing platform at the top
Grand Dukes that stood provides a panorama of
at the foot of Castle Hill the spires and rooftops of the
and survived the sieges Old Town to the south, as
of the 14th century – well as a glimpse of the new
form the Lower Castle. skyscrapers rising to the west.
In the 1520s, the Royal A funicular offers a ride to the
Palace was renovated Upper Castle.
in Renaissance style by The original stone buildings
Italian architects invited of the Upper Castle were
by Sigismund the Old built in 1419, with restor ation
(r.1506–48) and his wife. work taking place in the 1950s.
The palace became the According to legend, while
hub of a vibrant cultural on a hunting trip, Grand
life. Excavations carried Duke Gediminas dreamed
out here in 1987 to 2001 of an iron wolf howling from
unearthed decorative the hills in the park. This,
tiles, tap estries, jewellery his pagan priest said, was a
and armour from this sign that a powerful fortress
Vilnius Cathedral Belfry, Cathedral Square period and earlier. These should be built there. Wooden
objects are thought upper and lower castles and
9 Cathedral Square to have lain buried since the another on the adjacent hill
Katedros aikštė palace was destroyed by Tsarist were the result.
autho rities in 1802 as they did
Map 2 D3. @ 10, 11, 33.
not want a symbol of Lithuanian
The paving stones around the power dominating the city. w Lithuanian
square show the outline of the National Museum
wall around the Lower Castle, Lietuvos nacionalinis muziejus
a defence that made Vilnius a q Upper Castle
14th-century bastion against Aukštutinė pilis Arsenalo 1. Map 2 D3. Tel 262 9426.
the crusades. @ 10, 33. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
At the square’s western end Arsenalo 5. Map 2 D3. & 8 ∑ lnm.lt
Tel 261 7453. @ 10, 11, 33.
is the Vilnius Cathedral Belfry. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–9pm daily;
It was originally part of the Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm daily. & An early 19th-century building,
fortifications. There was also a known as the New Arsenal,
western gate where Vilnius The western tower, the only houses the Lithuanian National
Cathedral stands today. The remaining part of the Upper Museum. In front of it stands
square’s eastern end is domi- Castle complex, which once a statue of King Mindaugas,
nated by a statue of Grand included defensive structures, which was unveiled together
Duke Gediminas. Unveiled in is today the symbol of with the nearby bridge in July
1996, it conveys the city independent Lithuania. The 2003. The museum presents
founder’s predilection for
diplomacy over force. In the
square’s centre is a tile marked
stebuklas (miracle), reputed to
be the point where the Baltic
Way (see p43), the human chain
linking Vilnius, Rīga and Tallinn
in 1989, started from. Locals
believe that turn ing around on
it three times makes a wish
come true.

0 Lower Castle
Žemutinė pilis
Katedros 4. Map 2 D3. Tel 212 7476.
@ 10, 11, 33. Open 8am–5pm Mon–
Fri (to 3:45pm Fri). 8
∑ valdovurumai.lt
A group of buildings, including
Vilnius Cathedral, the Old
Arsenal and the Royal Palace – Western tower, the Upper Castle’s lone surviving structure
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


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VILNIUS  231


prolific craftsman who carved
hundreds of shrines for rural
farmsteads and villages in the
Kėdainiai and Kaunas regions
(see pp262–5).
r Hill of Three
Crosses
Trijų kryžių kalnas
Kalnų parkas. Map 2 E3.
A recognizable landmark and
symbol of Vilnius, the three
crosses on the hill adjacent to
the Upper Castle are replicas of
a monument destroyed by the
Soviet authorities in the 1950s.
Three wooden crosses were
first placed here in the 16th
century to commemo rate,
according to legend,
Franciscan friars tortured and
murdered by a pagan rabble.
The incident took place
dur ing the rule of Grand Duke
Algirdas, when Lithuania was
stubbornly resisting Roman
Catholic conversions. Seven
of the friars were hacked to
death, while the others were
Lithuanian traditional costumes on display, Lithuanian National Museum tied to crosses and cast into
the Vilnia river.
a glimpse of everyday life in e Applied Arts The view of the Old Town
Lithuania before World War II. Museum from the crosses is unrivalled.
Ordinary lives are evocatively Taikomosios dailės muziejus A footbridge and a path along
documented in the exhibits, the Vilnia leads to steps up the
which include plates and Arsenalo gatvė 3a. Map 2 E3. Tel 262 hillside. An easier alterna tive
spoons, decorative boxes and 8080. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat, route is via a side road leading
perfume bottles, and even an 11am–4pm Sun. & ∑ ldm.lt up through the park from
old stone with a hollow used where T Kosciuškos Street
for pagan rituals. The 16th-century Old Arsenal crosses the Vilnia.
The museum’s main highlight houses the Applied Arts Museum,
is the first-floor room, which which hosts major state-
gives a pictorial history of the sponsored exhibitions on topics
Lithuanian Grand Duchy from mainly relating to the history of
the Battle of the Sun to the Lithuania, the Grand Duchy and
18th-century partitions (see p215). sacred art.
The museum as a whole One of the permanent
gives a concise overview of exhibitions in the museum
Lithuanian history from the displays Lithuanian folk art from
13th century to the present. the 17th to the 19th centuries,
Fascinating exhibits show - illustrating the heavy impact
cased in the museum include that Christian themes had on
an executioner’s sword, tell ingly traditional mediums such as
broken into two pieces, a sculpture. The collection
wonderfully ostentatious includes way side wooden
18th-century sleigh and a crosses, shrines, saints and
handprint in iron of Peter the rūpintojėlis (Lithuanian folk-art
Great. There is also a display represen tations of a weary
of folk costumes and a superb Christ hold ing his head in his
life-size re-creation of a right hand). Particularly
typical Lithuanian peasant illuminat ing is the work of Hill of Three Crosses, a distinctive symbol
family farmstead. Vincas Svirskis (1835–1916), a of Vilnius




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232  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION


eventually given back to the
friars. The church’s original
16th­century frescoes are being
restored and include depictions
of the sobriety and solemnity
observed by friars, as well as
St Christopher, and scenes from
the Passion of Christ.
Just outside the church
grounds is a statue of Adam
Mickiewicz, created in 1984. In
August 1987, the statue was
the meeting point for the first
public rally under Soviet
occupation that called for
Lithuania’s national rights.
Elegant façade of the Russian Orthodox Holy Mother of God Church
t Holy Mother of were added to the interior. u Church of
God Church However, of these only the St Anne
Skaisčiausios Dievo Motinos cerkvė main altar, carved by Italian Šv Onos bažnyčia
craftsman Daniele Giotto,
Maironio 14. Map 2 E4. Tel 215 3747. remains today. The intriguing Maironio 8/1. Map 2 E3. Tel 6981
@ 10, 11, 33. 5 10am, 4pm Sat, façade combines Gothic 7731. @ 10, 11, 33. 5 5:30pm Mon–
9am Sun. windows and Baroque scrolls. Sat, 9am & 11am Sun.
Both church and friary were According to local folklore, this
The current structure of this closed after the 1863 uprising church charmed Napoleon into
Russian Orthodox church, (see p218), becoming barracks exclaiming how he wished he
designed by Russian architect for Russian troops, but were could take it back to Paris on
Nikolai Chagin, dates from the
19th century. One of the icons,
The Mother of God, was brought
by Tsar Alexander II, who also
gave funds for the reconstruc­
tion work. For over 60 years
before its renovation the church
had been used as dissection
rooms for the Medical Academy
and as a military barracks. Just
like the Church of St Paraskeva
(see p227), it stands where
pagan Grand Duke Algirdas
built a place of worship for his
wife, in the 14th century.
y Bernardine
Church
Bernardinų bažnyčia
Maironio 8. Map 2 E3. Tel 260 9292.
@ 10, 11, 33. 5 7:30am Mon–Thu;
6pm Sat; 9am (in English), 10:30am,
1pm, 5pm Sun.
In 1469, the austere Franciscan
Observant friars, known as the
Bernardines after their founder
St Bernardino of Siena, arrived in
Vilnius. The Bernardine Church,
which they built in around 1525,
still retains the late Gothic
crystal vaulting above the aisles.
In the 1770s, a series of Baroque
wooden altars and confessionals Church of St Anne, a Gothic gem said to have dazzled Napoleon
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


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VILNIUS  233


Adam Mickiewicz (1798–1855) in vari ous languages. The
museum also houses the first
“Oh Lithuania, my country, thou editions of a number of his
art like good health; I never knew great poems. The museum
till now how precious, till I lost often hosts literary meetings
thee.” So begins Pan Tadeusz, the and poetry evenings.
lyrical masterpiece of the great
Polish Romantic poet Adam p Orthodox Church
Mickiewicz. He was born into a
family of Polish nobles near of St Nicholas
Nowogrodek, in present-day Šv Mikalojaus cerkvė
Belarus, three years after the
partition of the Polish-Lithuanian Didžioji 12. Map 2 D4. Tel 261 8559.
Commonwealth. His nomadic life Open 1–6:30pm Mon–Fri, 7:30am–
was dominated by a strong 3pm Sun. 5 5pm Tue–Sat, 9am Sun.
yearning for an idyllic lost home-
land. His epic poems are full of The serene, candlelit interior
ancient forests, groves and open of the Orthodox Church of St
Statue of Adam Mickiewicz, outside the landscapes. Gražyna (1822), Nicholas contrasts sharply with
Bernardine Church written in his youth, is about the bustle on Didžioji, the Old
the female chief of a pagan Town’s main street. Originally
Lithuanian tribe who outwits the cross-and-sword-wielding Teutonic a Gothic church dating from
Knights. The Byronesque Konrad Wallenrod (1828) describes these 1514, it passed into the hands
battles with even greater mastery. of the Uniates, or Greek
Catholics, in 1609 before
getting a Baroque over haul,
the palm of his hand. St Anne’s that decorate the ceiling. Since including the bell tower. The
is a Gothic beauty; its ornate 2009, the building has housed church was returned to the
façade of flowing ogee arches the Church Heritage Museum, Russian Orthodox Church in
and slender windows is a which displays treasures from 1827. The overtly Russian
unique monument to the style Vilnius Cathedral and other Byzantine façade of the church,
in a city of Baroque. The finials sacred art. together with most of the
and the spires are covered interior, is an example of
evenly with deco rative crockets o Mickiewicz the change that took place in
– bricks made to resemble the city’s religious land scape
flowers or curled leaves and Museum following the doomed January
so favoured by Gothic archi- Adomo Mickevičiaus memoralinis 1863 uprising.
tects. One set of his torians butas-muziejus The domed chapel on the
found 33 different shapes of Bernardinų 11. Map 2 E3. Tel 279 left is dedicated to Count
brick used in the façade. Inside, 1879. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, Mikhail Muravyov (1796–1866),
the three Baroque altars were 10am–2pm Sat–Sun. 8 the governor-general who
designed by Jan Krzysztof dealt harshly with the
Glaubitz (see p237). The free- The legendary poet uprising’s participants.
standing bell tower was built Adam Mickiewicz, who
much later, in the 1870s. romanticized his Polish-
Lithuanian homeland,
stayed at this apartment,
i Church of which belonged to a
St Michael university professor, for
a brief period in 1822. Set
Šv Mykolo bažnyčia inside a lovely enclosed
Šv Mykolo 9. Map 2 E3. Tel 269 7803. courtyard, the museum
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat. attempts to re-create the
atmosphere of the era in
The Renaissance-style Church which the poet lived.
of St Michael was built during Period furniture, which
the early 17th century, as a Mickiewicz himself is
convent for Bernardine nuns said to have used while
and a mausoleum for the writing his first folk-
Sapiega family. Its interior inspired ballads, includes
features several of the nobles’ a table and chair from
funerary monuments. These Kaunas and a chair from
include one to Leonas Sapiega, Paris. Portraits of the
whose initials mark some of poet are set alongside
the crests, motifs and rosettes volumes of his works Façade, Orthodox Church of St Nicholas




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234  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION

Street-by-Street: Town Hall
Square to the Gates of Dawn

Lithuania’s distinctive Baroque architecture, known as Vilnius
Baroque, can be admired in the outstanding monuments
clustered around the Gates of Dawn and the Church of
St Casimir. The enchanting collection of towers and sculptures
was created during the 17th and 18th centuries by Italian and
Polish architects and their Polish-Lithuanian noble patrons.
The buildings are elegantly designed with symmetrical f. Church of St Casimir
façades, reflecting an unmistakable Italian influence. This church was the city’s
Nonetheless, the mystical atmosphere, so unique to Vilnius, museum of atheism from 1963
distinguishes the area from any other European city. to 1991. The crown symbolizes
St Casimir’s royal lineage.












s Town Hall D I D Ž I O J I G A T V Ė
With a bold Classical portico, the Town Hall A U Š R O S V A R T Ų G A T V Ė
was designed by the renowned Lithuanian
architect Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius.






V O K I E Č I Ų G A T V Ė R D I A R K L I ų G A T V Ė
Ū
N
N
K
ų
A T
G
Key V Ė
Suggested route


d Contemporary Art Centre
is a Soviet-era venue for
groundbreaking modern art.
Vokiečių Street
One of the city’s
oldest, Vokiečių Street
resembles a park
during the summer
months, with its
outdoor cafés and a 0 metres 100
plea sant central tree-
lined walkway. 0 yards 100
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


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VILNIUS  235


Šv Kazimiero
Street
A narrow cobble-
stone street named
after St Casimir
snakes around the
back of the church
towards Užupis,
with its jumble
of roofs.
Locator Map
See Street Finder Map pp250–51

Church of the
Holy Spirit



Ė
V
A T j . Church of St Theresa
S G Scenes from the life of St Theresa, revered
for her mystical writings, adorn the
A Č I A U M D A U frescoes were pain ted in the late
vaulted nave of the church. The
B K 18th century following a fire.
Š
U O
S S

G
A U Š R O S V A R T Ų G A T V Ė Ė V A T


Ė
V
A T
G

Ų
N
O
J
I
A R K L I ų G A T V Ė
L
I
Z
A
B
Basilian Gate








k. Gates of Dawn
Basilian Monastery A site of pilgrimage, this gateway
The now dilapidated monastery complex was used as a to the Old Town pro tects a silver-
prison to hold anti-Russian activists, including the poet covered painting of the Virgin Mary,
Adam Mickiewicz, in the 1820s. said to have miraculous powers.




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236  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION















Panoramic view of Town Hall Square, with flagpoles and church spires
a Čiurlionis House a court, and prisoners were f Church of
Čiurlionio namai marched from its cells to the St Casimir
square to be beheaded. The hall
Savičiaus 11. Map 2 D4. Tel 262 2451. Šv Kazimiero bažnyčia
Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat (entrance was constructed at the end of Didžioji 34. Map 2 D4. Tel 212 1715.
from side door). the 18th century and designed 5 5:30pm Mon–Fri, 10:30am &
by the Classical architect
The former house of Mikalojus Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius (see noon Sun.
Konstantinas Čiurlionis (see p228). Today, the hall hosts
p265) was turned into a about 200 cultural and social The city’s first Baroque church,
museum in 1995, to mark the events around the year. St Casimir was destroyed by fire
120th anniver sary of the birth three times after being built by
of Lithuania’s beloved artist the Jesuits bet ween 1604 and
and composer. Čiurlionis lived 1635, prompting heavy
here in relative poverty with reconstruction in the 1750s.
his wife Sofija, from October Much of the interior was
1907 until June 1908, when destroyed in 1812, when
they left Vilnius in search of Napoleon’s army used the
success in St Petersburg. church as a granary. It became
Quite modest in scale, this a Russian Orthodox church
museum does not attempt to during the 19th century and
rival the more extensive one onion domes were added to it.
dedicated to Čiurlionis in During World War I, it served
Kaunas (see p264). Instead, it “Extreme Crafts”, art exhibits at the as a Lutheran church for the
mainly serves as an information Contemporary Art Centre German army and was then
resource and a venue to hear returned to the Jesuits and
his chamber music concerts. d Contemporary res tored in the 1920s. The dome
Reproductions of the artist’s Art Centre was rebuilt in 1942 and the
paintings adorn the walls, as Šiuolaikinio meno centras crown was added. The Soviets
do photographs of him. Even used the church as a museum
today, Čiurlionis’s grand piano Vokiečių 2. Map 2 D4. Tel 212 1945. of atheism from 1963. It was
stands here. Open noon–7:30pm Tue–Sun. & - reconsecrated in 1991.
= ∑ cac.lt
s Town Hall Square The main gallery space for
Rotušės aikštė modern art exhibitions in Vilnius,
the Contemporary Art Centre
Didžioji 31. Map 2 D4. _ Kaziuko features works by both
Crafts Fair (Mar). ∑ vilniausrotuse.lt
Town Hall: Tel 261 8007. n Didžioji Lithuanian and inter national
31, 262 6470. Open 9am–1pm, artists. The star attraction is the
2–6pm daily. Fluxus Room, with a perma nent
exhibition dedicated to Fluxus,
Fully repaved in 2006, Town Hall the radical art move ment that
Square was for centuries a emerged in New York in the
market place and the centre of 1960s. The room pays special
public life. It still bustles with tribute to the movement’s
activity, mainly during the annual creator, Kaunas-born George
Kaziuko Crafts Fair (see p212), Maciunas (1931–78). Memorabilia
when craft stalls line the square. evoking the populist spirit of
The square’s main building, the Fluxus festi vals and photographs Altarpiece at the Church of St Casimir,
Town Hall, was earlier the site of of Maciunas fill the room. depicting the saint’s resurrection
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


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VILNIUS  237


Baroque Vilnius

The sensual waves, rich colours and theatrical stucco figures of Baroque architecture
reached Lithuania during the first half of the 17th century, replacing Gothic and
Renaissance. Italian masters, invited by Lithuania’s rulers, built Baroque gems such as
St Casimir’s Chapel (see p229) and the Church of St Theresa. In the mid-17th century came
a second resurgence of the style, when architects living in Vilnius began to develop a
distinct branch of Baroque. Led by Jan Krzysztof Glaubitz, they began to transform the
Old Town’s panorama by designing opu lent façades, matched by voluptuous interiors
and mul tiple altars. By the end of the 18th century Baroque had been replaced by the far
more res trained values of Neo-Classicism.

St Casimir’s Chapel, in Vilnius
Cathedral, is an early Baroque
gem, beautified intricately with
marble from Galicia and the
Carpathians, lavish stucco and
17th-century frescoes.









St John’s Church (see
p226), one of Glaubitz’s
first works in Vilnius,
boasts an overwhelming
four-tier façade made up
of clusters of columns.
Inside there are 10
inter connected altars.



The Basilian Gate (see
p238) of the Basilian
monastery was built by
Glaubitz in 1761. The
18-m (59-ft) structure Church of St Theresa (see
carries a depiction of p238) boasts radiant frescoes,
the Holy Trinity, to glitter ing altars and an image
which the church in the of the Madonna that is
complex is dedicated. believed to be miraculous.
Jan Krzysztof Glaubitz (1700–67)
The most influential of Vilnius’s late Baroque architects,
Jan Krzysztof Glaubitz developed a distinct school of Lithuanian
Baroque known as Vilnius Baroque. Born in Silesia, Glaubitz was a
Lutheran of German origin who moved to Vilnius at the age of 37
and designed structures for all faiths in this multi-religious city.
Among his most celebrated works are the magnificent façades of
the Basilian Gate, St John’s Church, Church of St Catherine (see
p241), the Church of the Holy Spirit (see p238) and the now Exterior of the Church of St Catherine,
destroyed Great Synagogue (see p243). Old Town






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238  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION


The Uniates who live here now j Church of
are sometimes willing to show St Theresa
visitors round. Šv Teresės bažnyčia
R Church of the Holy Trinity Aušros vartų 14. Map 2 D5.
Tel 212 2578. 5 5:30pm Mon–Sat, Tel 212 3513. 5 7:30am (Latin),
10am Sun. 6:30pm Mon–Fri; 11am, 6:30pm Sun.

h Church of the Another early feature of the
Baroque landscape, built from
Holy Spirit 1630 to 1655, is the Church of
Šv Dvasios cerkvė St Theresa, which stands in front
of the Gates of Dawn. Materials
Aušros vartų 10. Map 2 D5. Tel 212
7765. ^ 5 8am, 5pm Mon–Fri; like black marble in the portal
7am, 10am, 5pm Sun. and sandstone from Sweden,
used to beautify its façade, were
This Baroque church is the also used in St Casimir’s Chapel
Ornate Baroque entranceway of the religious centre of the city’s inside Vilnius Cathedral (see
Basilian Gate Russian Orthodox faithful. p229) around the same time.
Though completed in This has led some
g Basilian Gate 1634, it remains researchers to believe
Bazilijonų vartai rem arkably intact, the that Italian craftsmen
only alterations to the who designed the
Aušros vartų 7b. Map 2 D5.
exterior being a raised chapel also contributed
The awe-inspiring Basilian Gate façade and a new to the Church of
was designed in 1761 in dome added in the late St Theresa. The main
flamboyant late Baroque style 19th century. The attraction of the church
by J K Glaubitz (see p237). An all- painting over the is its interior, with its
seeing eye peers out from the doorway depicts frescoes and altars
central niche. The white bas- Sts Anthony, Ivan and Painting, Church of dating back to the
relief at the top portrays the Eustachius, whose St Theresa second half of the 18th
Holy Trinity, a hint of what lies remains lie within, century. The painting
beyond the gate. The Church of miraculously preserved. In the on the high altar is The Exaltation
the Holy Trinity, placed in the 14th century, the three were of St Theresa by Szymon
hands of the Uniates in 1598, Christians in the court of pagan Czechowicz (1689–1775). St
stands at the centre of an Grand Duke Algirdas. When the Theresa of Ávila in Spain inspired
enclosed court yard. This was pagan priests demanded that the formation in 1593 of the
once a seclu ded monastery, but they renounce their faith, they Discalced (Barefoot) Carmelites,
in 1823 the Tsarist authorities refused and were hanged from a Roman Catholic order whose
turned it into a prison for an oak tree. They were canonized emphasis was on discipline and
anti-Russian revolutionaries and in 1547 and the nearby Church prayer. A con vent was located
held Adam Mickiewicz (see of the Holy Trinity was built in next door, but today it is a hotel,
p233) there the same year. place of the oak. the Domus Maria (see p304).




















Frescoes on the ceiling of the Church of St Theresa
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


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VILNIUS  239


Other rooms have over 150
maps, including some of
Lithuania dating from 1507.
The book section has around
7,000 volumes of unique
publica tions. The collection
includes a number of books
by famous illustrators.
Varnelis, renowned for
creating optical illusions
based on geometric patterns
in his paintings, rarely meets
visitors now.
z Artillery Bastion
Bastėja
Bokšto 20/18. Map 2 E4. Tel 261 2149.
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. &
Constructed as part of the
Image of the Virgin Mary, seen through the window of the Gates of Dawn city defences in the first half of
the 17th century, the bastion
k Gates of Dawn l Kazys Varnelis had fallen into ruin by the end
Aušros vartai Museum of the 18th century. It was
Aušros vartų 12. Map 2 D5. Tel 212 Kazio Varnelio namai-muziejus used as an orphanage and the
city’s pre-eminent rubbish
3513. 5 7:30am, 9am, 10am, 5:30pm, Didžioji 26. Map 2 D4. Tel 279 1644.
6:30pm Mon–Sat; 9am, 9:30am, 11am, Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat (by heap, and was finally cleaned
6:30pm Sun. ∑ ausrosvartai.lt appointment only). & 8 up by the Germans during
World War I to store ammu-
The Classical chapel of Gates of nition. Its cool interior made
Dawn follows the centuries-old An extraordinary collection of it an ideal space for storing
custom of hav ing a chapel or a modern art, maps, graphics, vegetables during the early
religious image in every gateway paintings, sculptures, vintage Soviet period.
to safeguard the city from furniture, books and ceramics, In 1987 it was opened as
outside enemies and to protect as well as art from around a museum, and in 2014 it
departing travellers. The focus the world, fill the home of the opened again following
of this chapel is The Madonna of famous Lithuanian-American renovation. Although there
Mercy, an image reputed to have artist Kazys Varnelis (b.1917). is not a great deal to see, the
miracle-working powers. It was Some of the rooms look truly museum holds a certain fasci-
pain ted on oak in the 1620s and avant-garde, mixing Italian nation for history enthu siasts.
encased in silver 150 years later. Renaissance furniture and Outside, there are pleasant
The miracles attributed to it were French Baroque with 20th- views of the Old Town and
faithfully recorded by nuns at the century American modern art. the hilly Užupis district.
neighbouring Carmelite convent.
The walls surrounding the
painting are covered with silver
votive offerings .
The Classical chapel that
houses the image dates from
1829, when it was rebuilt from an
earlier Baroque version. A flight of
steps leads up to the chapel from
a door in the street. A site of
pilgrimage, it was one of the first
stops for Pope John Paul II when
he visited Lithuania in 1993.
This is the only gateway from
the early 16th-century city walls
to have survived. It becomes
more evident when viewed
from the outside, where round
holes that were used for
cannons are still visible. The redbrick Artillery Bastion, dating from the 17th century




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240  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION

x Church of the poorest of urban areas,
St Nicholas reaching out to the destitute,
Šv Mikalojaus bažnyčia often outside the safety of
the city walls. The Gothic main
Šv Mikalojaus 4. Map 2 D4. Tel 262 doorway dates from this earlier
3069. 5 8am, 6pm Mon–Fri; 9am Sat; period, but the rest of the
8am, 10am, 2pm Sun.
structure was built in the 1770s.
After the 1863 uprising (see
One of the oldest churches in p218), the church and friary
Lithuania, the Church of were closed and used as a
St Nicholas was built when granary and an archive. The
the country was still pagan. altars and the now unidentifiable
Most of its simple Gothic façade frescoes above the nave were
and interior dates from the virtually destroyed, as was a tall
16th century. The interior is Gothic bell tower that stood on
defined by the decorative brick Pranciškonų Street.
veins of the vaulting. Some
colourful paintings discovered Surviving fragment of a fresco on the v Dominican
here include a striking image ceiling of the Franciscan Church Church
of the sun.
The church has patriotic c Franciscan Šv Dvasios bažnyčia
conno tations for Lithuanians, as Church Domininkonų 8. Map 2 D4. Tel 262
from 1901 to 1939, when Vilnius 9595. 5 3pm, 6pm Mon–Fri;
was occupied by Russia and Pranciškonų bažnyčia 8am–6pm Sun.
then Poland, it was one of the Trakų 9/1. Map 1 C4. Tel 261 4242.
few churches allowed to hold 5 7:30am Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri; Also known as the Church of
Lithuanian-language services. 9am, 10:30am, 1pm & 5pm Sun. the Holy Spirit, the current
In the churchyard, the statue building of the Dominican
of St Christopher carrying the The cracked and cavernous, yet Church dates from the years
Infant Christ, created in 1959, highly evocative, Franciscan of repair that followed the
also helped to keep the spirits Church is also known as the des tructive war of 1655–61
of the people alive. The Church of Our Lady of the during the Russian occu pation.
sculptor, Antanas Kmieliauskas Assumption. It stands on a spot A church has stood on this spot
(b.1932), was expelled from the where, in the 14th century, since the 14th century.
Association of Artists because Franciscan friars established a The unassuming doorway,
of it. He later frescoed Littera base on the road to Trakai (see which can be easily missed,
bookshop in Vilnius University pp256–7). The Conventual belies the sumptuous interior.
(see p226). Franciscans chose to settle in Figures in stucco stand out on


























Lavishly decorated interior of the Dominican Church, featuring Rococo altars
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


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VILNIUS  241


15 lavishly decorated Rococo
altars. The altars, which are
embellished with colourful
paintings, also feature gilded
frames and faux marble
Corinthian columns – all
hallmarks of the late Baroque
style. The fresco-lined vesti bule,
which forms a passage into the
nave from the street, gives the
church a cavern-like quality,
emphasized by the dark,
candlelit interior.
During Napoleon’s chaotic
retreat in 1812, the friary next to
the church was converted into a
hospital and the crypt was used
as a morgue. Today, the crypt is
still full of stacks of mummi fied
corpses from this period, which Movie cameras on display at the Theatre, Music and Film Museum
have been preserved by the dry
air. The crypt is, however, off- Lithuania’s much-celebrated Ministry of Culture. The
limits to visitors. Baroque architect, Jan Krzysztof museum’s expansive collection
Glaubitz (see p237). is a tribute to the Lithuanians’
The church suffered some love of theatre and classical
damage during World War II music. The exhibits include
and was reopened in 2006 after theatre memo rabilia ranging
lengthy renovation. It is now from old costumes and
regularly used as a popular puppets to stage-set pieces,
venue for classical music mostly from the 19th and
concerts and perfor mances. In early 20th cen turies. The
the garden facing the church, superb collection of folk instru-
there is a bust monument of the ments features a number of
well-known Polish composer kanklės (decorated Lithuanian
Stanislaw Moniuszko (1819–72), stringed instru ments related
who wrote his first operas while to the zither).
working as an organist in Vilnius. The space given to cinema is
The area to the east of the limited and not as informa tive,
church is where a large convent although there are some
for Benedictine nuns stood from displays on cinematography.
Façade of the Church of St Catherine, with 1622 until the Soviet period.
strawberry-and-cream towers The church’s interior is highly m Radvila Palace
b Church of decorated but not fully repaired, Radvilų rūmai
giving it an air of authenticity.
St Catherine Vilniaus 24. Map 1 C3. Tel 262 0981.
Šv Kotrynos bažnyčia n Theatre, Music Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat, noon–
Vilniaus gatvė 30. Map 2 D3. and Film Museum 5pm Sun. & ∑ ldm.lt
Lietuvos teatro, muzikos, kino The early 17th-century palace,
Originally a small wooden muziejus once grand in size, was reduced
structure, the Church of Vilniaus 41. Map 1 C4. Tel 231 to just one wing by the end of
St Catherine formed part of a 2724. Open 11am–6pm Tue– the Northern War (1700–
Benedictine monastery in the Fri, 11am–4pm Sat. & 21). Now an art gallery,
early 17th century. The church ∑ ltmkm.lt it hosts a permanent
was rebuilt in stone in 1703, display, including 165
almost 50 years after the Housed inside a portraits of members
Russians burned it down. The 17th-century of the Radvila family.
structure, as it appears today, mansion once owned Temporary exhibitions
was built and consi derably by the powerful feature little-known,
expanded between 1741 and Radvila family, who but often surpri singly
1773. Its sophis ticated design, ruled Lithuania in the impressive, paintings
highlighted by the delightful 16th century, this by Lithuanian artists
strawberry-and-cream twin absorbing museum Phonograph, Theatre, from the 19th and
towers, is attributed to was founded by the Music and Film Museum early 20th centuries.




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242  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION

! KGB Museum
Genocido aukų muziejus
Aukų 2a. Map 1 C2. Tel 249 8156.
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sat,
10am–5pm Sun. & 8 =
∑ genocid.lt
Also known as the Museum
of Genocide Victims, the
KGB Museum was opened in
1992 on the ground floor of the
former KGB building. In this
Holocaust Museum in the Green House, annexe of the State Jewish Museum effectively designed display
area, personal stories are used
, State Jewish was executed. Descriptions of to reveal the regime of terror
Museum the harsh conditions inside the under Stalin until 1940 and then
Valstybinis Vilniaus gaono žydų ghettoes are fol lowed by until 1991 under the former
Muziejus eyewitness accounts of the Soviet Union.
mass killings in the forests of The exhibits chronicle the
Pylimo 4. Map 1 C3. Tel 212 7912. Paneriai (see p248). Soviet occupation of Lithuania,
Open 9am–1pm Mon–Fri. & 8 the cattle-car deportations to
excursions of the museum & Vilnius Siberia and the futile efforts of
Old Town offered. ∑ jmuseum.lt / Frank Zappa the Forest Brothers (see p122)
The hub of the city’s now tiny Statue who fought the Soviets. Below
Jewish commu nity, this small Kalinausko 1. Map 1 C3. ground, the cells were in use
museum displays copies of right up until the late 1980s
ghetto diaries and handwritten The world’s first statue of the and are even more
notes on the backs of ciga rette prolific Californian rock overwhelming. They
packets about life in the ghetto, legend Frank Zappa was include tiny cells used
plus items that rem ained created in Vilnius shortly in winter with no glass
from the museum that existed after his death from in the window and a
before World War II. Several cancer in 1993. A floor filled with water,
objects that miracu lously group of local artists and an execution
survived from the Great wanted to test the limits chamber displaying, under
Synagogue include a bas-relief of newly inde pendent glass, the dug-up remains
of the Ten Commandments. Lithuania’s proclamations of of victims. In 1997, the
The museum building also demo cracy and freedom museum was taken over
hosts a Union of Former Ghetto and were plea santly by the Genocide and
and Concentration Camp surprised when their idea Resistance Research Centre
Prisoners, a Union of Jewish War for the statue was approved. of Lithuania, a state
Veterans, a youth club and a The bust was created by Bust of insti tution ded icated to
newspaper in Yiddish, English, the then 70-year-old Frank Zappa investi gating atrocities
Lithuanian and Russian called Konstantinas Bogdanas, that occurred in the
Jerusalem of Lithuania. known for his statues of Lenin country during the Nazi and
and other notable Communists. Soviet occupations.
. Holocaust
Museum
Holokausto ekspozicija
Pamėnkalnio 12. Map 1 C3. Tel 262
4590. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Thu,
9am–4pm Fri, 10am–4pm Sun. & 8
∑ jmuseum.lt
Located in the Green House,
this annexe of the State
Jewish Museum reveals some
of the horrors that befell the
Jews of Lithuania during World
War II. A display on Jewish life
before the Holocaust unfolded
is followed by maps and
photographs showing how
and where the Nazi genocide Exhibits in the corridor outside the former execution chamber, KGB Museum
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


242-243.indd 242 15/02/17 10:16 am

VILNIUS  243


Jewish Vilnius

Until it was eliminated during the Holocaust, Jewish Vilna, or Vilnius, was home to a large,
influential Jewish com munity. About 250,000 Jews lived in Lithuania at the turn of the
19th century, compared to just 4,000 today, and 40 per cent of Vilnius’s population was
Jewish. By the early 19th century, Vilnius had emerged as a major centre of Jewish
learning and bustled with life. The religious customs of the Litvaks, as Lithuanian Jews
are known in Yiddish, were marked by a rigid analysis of the Talmud, the Jewish laws and
traditions. As a result, other Jewish com mu nities in Eastern Europe saw the Vilna Jews as
being old-fashioned and staunch intellectuals. Decimated by World War II and ravaged
further by the Soviets, Jewish Vilna is a ghostly reminder of a vanished world.
















Jewish Vilna before World War II had its cobbled lanes
crowded with artisans’ workshops and cafés. A maze of
courtyards and passages that lay around Vokiečių and
Žydų streets, concealed synagogues and prayer houses.

The Great Synagogue, built in 1572,
was restored with an Italian Renaissance Vilnius Choral
interior by Glaubitz. The Soviets Synagogue was the
destroyed the remains of the Jewish only synagogue in the
quarter after World War II, broadening country to survive
Vokiečių Street and bull dozing this awe- World War II. Located on
inspiring building. Pylimo Street 39, it
started functioning in
1903. Although it was
smaller in scale and
simpler in design
than Vilnius’s other
Elijah Ben Solomon synagogues, the Choral
(see p40), known as Vilna Synagogue has an
Gaon, or “genius”, was enchanting interior.
a leading Talmud
scholar who wrote
extensive commen-
taries on ancient
Hebrew books. He
advo cated an
empiri cal study of
religious scriptures
over mysticism.
A map of Vilna Ghetto is shown on the
wall at Rūdininkų 18. The ghetto is where
the Jews of Vilnius were imprisoned during
World War II, and the wall marks the place
where its only gate once stood.





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244  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION

Further Afield Paupio Street. The statue of an
angel, the symbol of Užupis,
As most of Vilnius’s main sites are concentrated in the Old stands on nearby Užupio Street.
Town, visitors often ignore the suburbs. It can be rewarding, The bizarre Alternative Art
however, to escape the bustling city centre and to discover Centre, where the door is
Vilnius as a living city as well as a picturesque time capsule. always open, stands by the river
between Užupio and Malūnų.
A trip to the TV Tower affords excellent views on a clear day, A stroll further east leads to the
while Vingis Park and Verkiai Palace are ideal for walking serene Bernardinų Cemetery.
and a breath of fresh air. Paneriai and Antakalnis Cemetery, The terrace of the Tores café
meanwhile, recount Lithuania’s often tragic history. on Krivių has one of the city’s
best views. Another viewpoint
foot path behind the school on
ŠNIPIŠKĖS can be found on an unmarked
T NARBUT O GATVĖ KA LVARIJŲ GATVĖ GATVĖ Krivių Street. The footpath then
TUSKULĖNŲ
ŽVĖRYNAS KONSTITUCIJ O S GATVĖ plunges down the Vilnia Valley
Neris A GOŠTAUTO A GOŠT A UTO ARS E NALO G O LA N DŲ GATVĖ into Kalnų Park.
0 km 2 OLD S BATORO GATVĖ 2 Church of Sts
0 miles A14 2 102 TOWN M A IRO NIO G Peter and Paul
KAREIVIŲ GATVĖ M DAU KŠOS S UKI LĖLI Ų GATVĖ MARKUČIAI See pp246–7.
A2
GELEŽINIO VILKO GATVĖ
0 km 1 LIEPKALNIO GAT V Ė RASŲ GA TV Ė 3 Antakalnis
Cemetery
0 miles 1 Antakalnio kapinės
VILNIUS
1 Užupis Karių kapų 11. Tel 234 0587.
101 The largest public cemetery in
@ 11.
Vilnius brings together much
Tucked inside a bend in the of the city’s modern history.
Vilnius
MINSKO PLENTAS
International A15 A3 Vilnia river, Užupis translates Statues and memorial stones
Airport
as “Behind the River”. This cover the verdant land scape,
picturesque part of central the crosses and tombs
Sights at a Glance Vilnius has narrow streets filled inscribed in Lithuanian, Russian
1 Užupis with cafés, art galleries and and Polish. The main path leads
2 Church of Sts Peter and Paul mysterious hidden courtyards. past a wave of iden tical stone
pp246–7 The artists who live here crosses dedicated to Polish
3 Antakalnis Cemetery declared inde pendence in 1997, soldiers who died during World
4 Green Bridge with their own flag, president War I. At the heart of the
cemetery is a sweeping semi-
and independence day (1 April).
5 Parliament Their constitution, which circular memorial cut into the
6 Vingis Park and Žvėrynas fea tures articles such as “Every- hillside for the 14 civilians who
7 TV Tower one has the right to understand were killed while defending
8 Pushkin Museum nothing”, is nailed to a wall on the TV Tower and the
9 Rasos Cemetery
0 Paneriai Holocaust Memorial
q Calvary Church of the
Holy Cross
w Trinapolis Church
e Verkiai Palace
Key
City centre
Motorway
Main road
Minor road Imaginatively painted façade of the Alternative Art Centre, Užupis
For keys to symbols see back flap


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VILNIUS  245


congregate, stands on Liubarto
Street. Vingis Park, reached via a
suspension footbridge on the
western side of Žvėrynas, is
filled with towering pine trees
and footpaths. At the centre
of the park is an open-air
auditorium used for concerts
and, every five years, the
climax to the World Lithuanian
Song Festival. To the east, where
the pleasant M K Čiurlionio
Street meets the park, a
cemetery for German soldiers
killed during the two world
Graves of civilians killed by Russian tanks in 1991, Antakalnis Cemetery wars has been restored.
Parliament in 1991. A path to The similarly monumental
the right of the cemetery National Library, constructed 7 TV Tower
entrance leads to Soviet-era 20 years earlier, stands beside Vilniaus televizijos bokštas
war memorials. it on the other side of Sausio 13–Osios 10. Tel 252 5333.
Independence Square. @ 49. Open 11am–9pm daily
It was in the Seimas, on
4 Green Bridge 11 March 1990, that the act (to 10pm Fri & Sat). & 8 0 =
∑ tvbokstas.lt
Žaliasis tiltas declaring independence from
the Soviet Union was signed. The grand 326-m (1,070-ft) TV
The first bridge crossing During the subsequent siege, Tower is set against a striking
the river at this point was in 1991, concrete backdrop of tall pines. On the
made of wood and was barricades and Catholic ground floor, there is a small
built in the 16th century. shrines were put up display paying tribute to those
The current around the who were shot or crushed
bridge dates building to beneath Soviet tanks while
from 1952, the protect it trying to defend the tower on
year before Stalin’s against Soviet 13 January 1991. Granite markers
death. At its four corners tanks. These were outside show where they fell.
stood Socialist Realist finally removed The tower’s observation deck
statues of confi dent in 1993, and houses a state-run café,
workers, peasants the rem nants Paukščių Takas, at a height of
and soldiers, that embla zoned with 165 m (541 ft). The rotating deck
were originally built Soviet-era statues that adorned graffiti demand- makes a full circle in about 50
to instill optimism the Green Bridge until 2015 ing freedom and minutes and offers spectacular
among the masses in democracy can views of the area. On a clear day,
a brave new Communist future. still be seen on the western visibility is 70 km (43 miles) in
They were regarded as genuine side of the Seimas. every direction, with views
works of art by locals. For years, stretch ing into Belarus, about
debate raged about whether or 6 Vingis Park and 40 km (25 miles) away.
not to take these corroded-iron
statues away, and they were Žvėrynas
eventually removed in July @ 11, 24. 0 - =
2015. Now debate is raging as
to what to replace them with. The leafy Žvėrynas district was
created from the Radvila family’s
forest-covered hunt ing grounds,
which were sold off from 1893
5 Parliament as plots of land for develop-
Lietuvos respublikos seimas ment. The streets are lined
with old wooden villas and
Gedimino 53. Tel 239 6060. @ 24.
8 ∑ lrs.lt contemporary mansions. The
silver-domed Orthodox Church
The far end of Gedimino of the Apparition of the Holy
Avenue is marked by the Mother of God (1903) looms
Seimas, Lithuania’s Parliament. over the Neris river. The tiny
Built in 1982, the building is Kenesa (1922), where the Elegant TV Tower, soaring high above
typical of the late Soviet era. Karaim (see p257) used to its surroundings
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


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246  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION

2 Church of Sts Peter and Paul
Šv Petro ir Povilo bažnyčia
With its breathtaking interior of over 2,000 white stucco
figures featuring angels and demons, biblical scenes and
some gruesome historical images, the Church of Sts Peter
and Paul is essentially a glorified Baroque mausoleum to its
wealthy patron, Michal Kazimierz Pac (1624–82). He was a
Lithuanian military leader and the provincial governor of
Vilnius. Pac’s portrait hangs by the altar, his crest is positioned
over the door and his body lies under the front steps. Built
over the remains of two earlier wooden churches, the second Twin-towered façade of the
of which was badly damaged during a brutal war with Church of Sts Peter and Paul
Moscow from 1655 to 1661, the church was intended to
stand as a lasting monument to peace.

Boat-Shaped Chandelier
A late addition to the interior and
a reference to St Peter’s profession
as a fisherman, the glass-bead
chandelier was made by Latvian
craftsmen in 1905.



















Altar
The original high altar was replaced
by The Parting of St Peter and St Paul
(1801), created by the Polish
histo rical painter Pranciškus
Smuglevičius (1745–1807).



KEY
1 The interior is a fine ensemble
of exquisite stucco and richly
decorated chapels.
2 The inscription above the
balcony reads “Regina pacis funda
nos in pace” (“Queen of Peace protect . Chapel of the Holy Queens
us in peace”), probably a play on the The chapel to the north of the nave is rich in stucco.
patron’s name. The female figure perched over the arch giving a
coin to a beggar denotes compassion.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


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VILNIUS  247


. Vaulted Nave and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Cupola
The exuberance of the Practical Information
decoration attains a Antakalnio gatvė 1. Tel 234 0229.
dizzying scale as the nave 5 7am, 7:30am, 6pm Mon–Sat;
reaches the cupola – the 8:30am, 1pm Sat; 7:30am, 10am,
rectangular reliefs, flowers 11:30am, 1pm, 6pm Sun. Ser vices
and cartouches giving in Lithuanian & Polish only.
way to a spiral of
animated angels and the
face of God at the apex.
The Italian Connection
The first flowering of Lithuanian Baroque
in the early 17th century took place
when Lithuania’s rulers invited Italian
architects and sculp tors to redesign
the city. Matteo Castello (1560–1632)
designed St Casimir’s Chapel (see p229).
His nephew, Constante Tencalla (1590–
1646), completed it, then created the
façade of the Church of St Theresa (see
p238). Half a century later, artists Perti,
Galli and Palloni arrived in Vilnius to
adorn the Church of Sts Peter and Paul.










Smiling Madonna in the Chapel of St Casimir in
Vilnius Cathedral









. Chapel of
St Ursula
Ursula was an English
prin cess seized by the
Huns with 10 virgin
com panions and shot with
arrows. Images of their fate
are balanced by four
sculptures of female saints
including Mary Magdalene.



Ornate Stucco Portico
The rippling central shield above the doorway, flanked
by figures of young boys, displays a fleur-de-lis, a
symbol from Pac’s coat of arms. The glorious stucco
work adorning the entire church is attributed to the
Italian masters Pietro Perti and Giovanni Maria Galli.




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248  LITHU ANIA REGION B Y REGION


founder of the first Lithuanian-
language newspaper, Aušra
(Dawn), composer and painter
M K Čiurlionis (see p265) and
Marija and Jurgis Šlapelis (see
p227). A more controversial
monument is the tomb of the
man responsible for Poland’s
annexa tion of Vilnius in 1920,
Józef Pilsudski (1867–1935). His
body lies among those of the
kings and queens of Kraków,
but by his wishes his heart was
cut out and placed here under
a granite slab. The cemetery
Delightful wooden building of the Pushkin Museum is spiritually significant for
Lithuanians. In 1956, a crowd
8 Pushkin Museum house, behind a statue of gathered here to protest the
Puškino memorialinis muziejus Pushkin, are acres of tranquil suppression of the Hungarian
grounds and a small onion- uprising against Soviet occupation.
Subačiaus 124. Tel 260 0080.
@ 10,13. Open 10am–5pm Wed– domed family mausoleum.
Sun. & 8 ∑ vilniausmuziejai.lt Steps lead down to a lake, and
the paths that reach out into 0 Paneriai
This museum is located in a the sur rounding countryside Holocaust
bright yellow wooden house, are a delight to explore. Memorial
which stands out on a plea sant
grassy hill. It was not the great Panerių memorialinis muziejus
Russian poet, but his son 9 Rasos Cemetery Agrastų 17, 8 km (5 miles) SW of
Grigorij (1835–1905) who Rasų kapinės Vilnius. Tel 6808 1278. £ from Vilnius.
lived here with his wife Varvara Rasų gatvė. Tel 265 6563. @ 31. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Thu, Sun.
(1855–1935). Founded in
1940 and opened in 1948, the Revered national figures and Centuries of Jewish culture and
museum is now home to many ordinary Vilnius folk lie side by tradition in Vilnius ended at this
volumes of Alexander Pushkin’s side in this cemetery, founded in major Holocaust site. About
works and the ground floor 1769. Some of the distinguished 70,000 Jewish men, women and
is furnished in the late 19th- tombstones include those of children were slaughtered in the
century style. At the back of the Jonas Basanavičius (1851–1927), forests of Paneriai between July



























Imposing tombstones of Marija and Jurgis Šlapelis at the Rasos Cemetery
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–305 and pp326–8


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