(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Estonia Latvia & Lithuania

ENTER T AINMENT IN LA T VIA 349


DIRECTORY
Information
Latvian Culture Portal
∑ culture.lv
Latvijas Koncerti
∑ latvijaskoncerti.lv
Booking and Prices
Biļešu Paradīze
∑ ticketparadise.lv
Ticket Service
∑ ticketservice.lv
The open-air theatre near Rundāle Palace Theatre
are few chances to see opera by Jelgavas Baltie Krekli. Like Liepāja Theatre
outside Rīga. The Latvian its sister club, Četri Balti Krekli in Teātra iela 4. Tel 6340 7811.
National Opera does leave Rīga, it has a strictly-Latvian ∑ liepajasteatris.lv
the capital to perform else- music policy. Saulkrasti Open-Air Stage
where in Latvia, but venues for Ainažu iela 42a.
these shows include cultural
centres in several towns and Jazz Classical Music
Krustpils Open-Air Stage Regular jazz nights are scarce and Opera
near Jēkabpils. outside Rīga, but local tourist Krustpils Open-Air Stage
offices may provide informa tion.
Saulkrasti Jazz Festival is an Tel 6522 1051.
Rock, Pop and important event in the cal endar, Latvian Music Information
Alternative Centre
as is the Sigulda Jazz Festival
The liveliest music scene in Liepāja. Tel 6722 6797. ∑ lmic.lv
outside the capital is in Liepāja, Liepāja Symphony
which boasts a few decent Orchestra
places to see a band. Fire Bar Bars and Clubs Tel 6348 9272. ∑ lso.lv
features mostly jazz bands, but Most places in Latvia have at
does host rock acts too. It’s a least a couple of bars, some of Rock, Pop and
small place and can get rather which turn into discos on week- Alternative
smoky. Another option is end nights. Some of the better Fire Bar
Fontaine Palace, which features ones include the Fire Bar and
a mixture of bands and DJs. It Fontaine Palace, both in Liepāja. Stūrmaņu 1, Liepāja. Tel 6348
9777. ∑ firebar.lv
has a more relaxed bar
downstairs, and a fast-food Fontaine Palace
outlet next door. The summer Dzirnavu iela 4, Liepāja. Tel 6348
sees performances on Liepāja’s 8510. ∑ fontainepalace.lv
open-air stage, Pūt Vējiņi, as Jelgavas Baltie Krekli
well as the Summer Sound Lielajā ielā 19a. Tel 6302 2259.
festival (see p136) in July. ∑ tamitami.lv
Jūrmala hosts plenty of live Positivus
music in summer. The
programme at the Dzintari ∑ positivus.lv
Concert Hall features popular Pūt Vējiņi
Latvian and Russian musicians. Cēsis Historical Film Festival, held every Peldu iela 57, Liepāja.
The major Russian-language August in Cēsis Castle
pop competition, New Wave, Jazz
held every July, attracts huge Cinema Saulkrasti Jazz Festival
crowds, while the biggest music State funding for Latvian films ∑ saulkrastijazz.lv
festival, Positivus, takes place has almost dried up and many
near Salacgrīva and features cinemas have closed since Sigulda Jazz Festival
bands from all over the globe independence. Most cinemas ∑ jazzfest.lv
(see p137). The schedule at the tend to screen Hollywood Cinema
open-air stage in Ogre, on the movies with Latvian and Russian
way to Daugavpils, includes subtitles. Cēsis Castle hosts the Cēsis Historical Film Festival
rock and pop acts, while the annual Cēsis Historical Film ∑ filmuskate.cesis.lv
nightlife in Jelgava is enlivened Festival in August.

350 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Entertainment in Rīga established during the Soviet
period continues today.
Since independence Rīga has been working hard to recapture Although the National Opera
its reputation as the cultural capital of the Baltic region. Apart closes in the summer, there are
from world-class performances of opera, ballet and classical special performan ces in
music, the city also has a thriving live-music scene. Local bands August. Tours of the building
are also available for a
play diverse genres from jazz to rock, often alongside minimum of 10 people.
international performers. The summer months see a few
festivals offering music and more, but in winter there is usually Classical Music
some form of cultural event or other taking place regularly. The
city is also renowned for its energetic nightlife. On Friday and There are a number of concert
venues in Rīga, including the
Saturday nights, many Old Town bars buzz with foreign visitors, Dome Cathedral (see p146),
though it is not difficult to find a peaceful place for a drink which hosts regular recitals.
among local people. Clubs, which range from small and hip to Ave Sol hosts chamber and
huge and mainstream, stay open throughout the night. choral music perfor mances.
The Latvian Philharmonic
Orchestra performs at the Great
Information
on a range of productions, Guild (see p149), while chamber
Most hotels in Rīga stock an from traditional to experi- music is played at the Small
assortment of free pocket-sized mental. Other options include Guild across the road. Spīķeri
magazines containing listings the New Rīga Theatre and Concert Hall, located in
and other information, of which the Russian Drama Theatre. the warehouses next to
the best is RigaNOW! The afford- Rīga’s most important theatre Rīga’s Central Market, is a
ably priced and comprehensive festival is Homo Novus, held contemporary venue for
bi-monthly Rīga In Your Pocket in September, usually every classical music and is the
is avail able to browse or alternate year. It concentrates home of the Sinfonietta Rīga
download as a PDF from the on cutting-edge experi mental chamber orchestra.
company’s website. The Latvian theatre and dance.
Culture Portal (see p349) website
is also helpful. Rock, Pop and
Opera and Ballet Alternative
Since the 18th century, Rīga has Major international artists
Theatre
maintained a strong tradition of perform at the Arēna Rīga,
Theatre performances are opera and ballet. The Latvian while local bands play at a host
mainly in Latvian or Russian, National Opera has an of smaller venues. Kaļķu Vārti
making them of limited interest imposing Neo-Classical building is noted for booking some of
to most visitors. The Latvian with a Baroque interior. It is the country’s top artists. Depo
National Theatre, housed in the venue for world-class features alter native music
a Neo-Classical building, has a performances that are usually from ska to metal and Sapņu
significant place in Latvian in their original language with Fabrika offers a range of diverse
history, as independence was subtitles in Latvian and English. genres from world music to
declared here on 18 November The building that houses the rock. Četri Balti Krekli offers
1918. The Dailes Theatre, Latvian National Opera isalso Latvian music.
directed by Eduards Smiļğis home to the Rīga Ballet. The
(1886–1966) for 40 years, puts strong ballet tradition
Jazz and Blues
The best blues venue in the
city is Moonshine, which
has live music on weekend
evenings. It also serves
sur prisingly good food,
while iconic American images
adorn the wall and a converted
Cadillac overlooks the square.
The smaller-scale Hamlets
club hosts jazz performances.
Rīgas Ritmi (Rīga’s Rhythms)
organizes concerts featuring
local and international jazz,
blues and world musicians
at various venues throughout
A lavishly decorated hall in the Latvian National Theatre the year.

ENTER T AINMENT IN LA T VIA 351


Bars and Clubs Casinos
Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta
With a wide range of bars and and Studio 69, feature DJs on Although there are numerous
clubs, Rīga has a swinging the weekend, while Folkklubs establishments that describe
night life. Balzambārs is a Ala offers a mix of folk bands themselves as casinos, most
popular place to try various and more traditional music, plus provide only slot machines.
cocktails. Skyline Bar in the tasty traditional food too. Establishments with gaming
Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija (see Rīga’s gay scene remains tables include the Olympic
p301) is one of the favourite bars low-profile. XXL, the only well- Voodoo Casino in the Radisson
in town. I Love You attracts a advertised gay club, has live Blu Hotel Latvija (see p301) and
youthful local crowd, while shows on Friday and Saturday the Royal Casino. It is compul-
Paddy Whelan’s Irish pub is nights. Golden, a gay-friendly sory to register at casinos, so
a favourite among expats. bar, plays house music and you must be sure to carry valid
The best-known nightclubs, offers a warm ambience. photo ID.
Cinema
There are several multi-screen
cinemas in Rīga, mostly offer-
ing Hollywood films. The
largest is the Coca-Cola
Forum, which has 14 halls and
several cafés. Splendid Palace,
the city’s first cinema house,
has been renovated and also
shows non-Hollywood films.
K Suns is the best place for art-
Sweeping view of Rīga from the Skyline Bar, Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija house cinema.
DIRECTORY
Theatre Spīķeri Concert Hall Moonshine Studio 69
Maskavas iela 4/1. Kaļķu iela 12. Terbatas 73.
Dailes Theatre Tel 6721 5018. Tel 6722 2203. Tel 6750 6030.
Brīvības iela 75. ∑ info.studio69.lv
∑ sinfoniettariga.lv ∑ moonshineriga.lv
Tel 6727 0463.
∑ dailesteatris.lv Rock, Pop and Rīgas Ritmi XXL
Kalniņa iela 4.
∑ rigasritmi.lv
Latvian National Alternative Tel 6728 2276.
Theatre Arēna Rīga Bars and Clubs ∑ xxl.lv
Kronvalda bulvāris 2.
Tel 6700 6337. Skanstes iela 21. Tel 6738 Balzambārs Casinos
8200. ∑ arenariga.com Torņa iela 4. Tel 6721 4494.
∑ teatris.lv
Olympic Voodoo
Četri Balti Krekli Folkklubs Ala
New Rīga Theatre Casino
Vecpilsētas iela 12. Tel Peldu iela 19. Tel 2779
Lāčplēša iela 25. Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija,
Tel 6728 0765. ∑ jrt.lv 6721 3885. ∑ krekli.lv 6914. ∑ folkklubs.lv Elizabetes iela 55.
Depo Golden Tel 6782 8777.
Russian Drama
Theatre Vaļņu iela 32. Ģertrūdes iela 33–35. Royal Casino
Tel 6721 1374. Tel 2550 5050.
Kaļķu iela 16. Tērbatas iela 73.
∑ klubsdepo.lv ∑ mygoldenclub.com
Tel 6722 4660. Tel 6709 2299.
∑ trd.lv Kaļķu Vārti I Love You
Kaļķu iela 11a. Aldaru iela 9. Tel 6722 Cinema
Opera and Ballet Tel 6722 4576. 5304. ∑ iloveyou.lv
Coca-Cola Forum
∑ kalkuvarti.lv
Latvian National Paddy Whelan’s Janvara iela 8.
Opera Sapņu Fabrika Grēcinieku iela 4. Tel 6721 ∑ forumcinemas.lv
Aspāzijas bulvāris 3. Lāčplēša 101. 0150. ∑ pub.lv K Suns
Tel 6707 3777. Tel 2201 1811. Pulkvedim Neviens Elizabetes iela 83–85.
∑ opera.lv ∑ sapnufabrika.lv Neraksta ∑ kinogalerija.lv
Peldu iela 26–28. Tel 6721
Classical Music Jazz & Blues 3886. ∑ pulkvedis.lv Splendid Palace
Elizabetes iela 61.
Ave Sol Hamlets Skyline Bar ∑ splendidpalace.lv
Citadeles iela 7. Jāņa sēta 5. Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija,
Tel 6718 1637. Tel 6722 9938. Elizabetes iela 55.
∑ avesol.riga.lv ∑ hamlets.lv Tel 6777 2222.

352 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN
LITHUANIA


Lithuania offers its visitors a wide variety of the summer solstice. Lively pop festivals
enter tainment, with something for everybody. sometimes brighten up summer resorts such
Most cities have a strong cultural tradi tion. as Palanga and Juodkrantė. Outside Vilnius the
Panevėžys has a popular drama theatre, while entertainment options tend to be limited,
the resi dents of Klaipėda are more inspired by although Klaipėda provides some atmospheric
music, embracing both improvised and venues for live music. Baroque and chamber
traditional jazz, blues and operetta. Trakai and music concerts are regularly performed
Kernavė provide scenic back drops to summer throughout the year in many of Lithuania’s
events, including medie val festivals of archery churches. For entertainment options in Vilnius
and swordfighting and mystical celebrations of see pages 354–5.

Information
The English-language In Your
Pocket guides, found in hotels,
at newsstands and online, cover
restaurants, hotels, shopping
and nightlife in most of
Lithuania’s livelier towns. The
official websites of Lithuanian
Tourism and Tourism Vilnius
are also useful resources.
Lithuania has a large number
of visitor information centres Imposing exterior of the Klaipėda State Drama Theatre in Klaipėda
with English-speaking staff and
English-language leaflets, book- theatre culture, although an classical music recitals that
lets and up-to-date local informa- equal passion for theatre exists often have no entry charges.
tion. All of Lithuania’s towns and outside the city. Zapyškis Church (see p265),
cities have their own dedicated The Klaipėda State Drama outside Kaunas, is a particularly
websites, which usually contain Theatre, which dates from atmospheric venue in
sche dules and information on 1819, is one of the oldest the countryside.
culture and events. functioning theatres in On the coast, the Klaipėda
Lithuania and the most famous State Music Theatre holds a
outside Vilnius. In Panevėžys, wide array of classical music
Booking and Prices
the Juozo Miltinio Drama concerts, opera and other
The booking service Bilietai Theatre is named after legen- performances. Panevėžys
LT has kiosks in most concert dary stage actor and director Civic Art Gallery (see p268)
venues and shopping centres Juozas Miltinis (1907–94), who and Kėdainiai’s Multicultural
in major cities, where tickets taught actors to reject Centre (see p265) also hold
can be bought with credit conservatism and to draw regular concerts.
cards or cash. Tickets can also on their own life experiences
be booked by telephone or while acting.
through a website and can be
collected from a sales office,
or delivered to any address in Classical Music
Lithuania. Prices usually vary Kaunas has several concert
anywhere between 10 and halls that feature music
50 euros per person. regularly. The Kaunas State
Musical Theatre and the Great
Hall of Vytauto Didžiojo
Theatre
University are among the
Lithuanian theatre developed pre ferred venues, but the
during the period of indepen- Kaunas City Symphony
dence between the world Orchestra and Kaunas State
wars, producing young and Choir also perform at less
talented playwrights such as formal venues including the
Balys Sruoga and Kazys Binkis. Mykolas Žilinskas Art Gallery Beautiful exterior of the Kaunas State
Vilnius has a particularly strong (see p264). Some churches host Musical Theatre

ENTER T AINMENT IN LITHU ANIA 353


Music Festivals
Several music festivals have
grown in popularity over
the years. The magnificent
Baroque Pažaislis Monastery
complex (see p265), near Kaunas,
forms the backdrop to the
annual Pažaislis Music Festival.
The Edvard Grieg and M K
Čiurlionis Festival, hosted in
Kaunas each spring, features
classical music concerts. The
Muzikinis Pajūris (Musical
Seaside) festival of opera and
symphony takes place every
summer in Klaipėda.

Nightlife
Club life is not limited to the
capital city. Klaipėda has an
increasingly lively and varied
nightlife. A popular place for
dancing and expertly mixed
cocktails in an Old Town attic
is Mr. Bond. Newer venues are
gradually taking the place of
the duller bars and discos in and
around the Old Town. They offer
casinos, concerts and restaurants,
besides dance floors. Klaipėda’s
Kanto Street also has some People enjoying at a brightly lit nightclub in Vilnius
spirited bars full of fun and revelry.
Kaunas has a mix of low-key Jazz, Blues and Folk Music Cinema
bars such as BO in the Old Town Jazz features prominently in Movies screened in Lithuania
and the swing ing Nautilus the country’s cultural scene. are shown in their original
Centre, a club frequented by the Among the best jazz festivals is language, which means that
young. The other party-town in Kaunas Jazz (see p212). Kurpiai they can be enjoyed by locals
Lithuania is the coastal resort of in Klaipėda also hosts jazz and visitors. Only one modern
Palanga, where in summer the and blues performances. Folk multiplex, the Forum Cinemas,
entire area around Basanavičiaus music features at the Days of exists in both Vilnius and
gatvė (street) turns into a Live Archaeology amid the Kaunas. However, other cities
pulsating open-air disco from ancient hills forts of Kernavė have decent cinemas, such as
dusk virtually until dawn. (see p258), in July. Cinamon in Klaipėda.
DIRECTORY
Information Klaipėda State Drama Music Festivals Nautilus Centre
Theatre Savanorių 124, Kaunas.
Lithuanian Tourism Teatro 2. Tel (46) 314 464. Edvard Grieg and M K Tel (37) 338 228.
∑ lithuania.travel Čiurlionis Festival
∑ kldt.lt
Tourism Vilnius ∑ kaunofilharmonija.lt Jazz, Blues and
∑ vilnius-tourism.lt Classical Music Muzikinis Pajūris Folk Music
∑ klaipedosmuzikinis.lt
Booking and Great Hall Pažaislis Music Kurpiai
Prices S Daukanto 28, Kaunas. Festival Kurpių 1a, Klaipėda.
Tel (37) 327 869. ∑ pazaislis.lt
Bilietai LT ∑ bilietai.lt Tel (46) 410 555.
Kaunas State Musical
Theatre Theatre Nightlife Cinema
Laisvės alėja 91, Kaunas. BO
Juozo Miltinio Drama Tel (37) 227 113. Muitinės 9-1, Kaunas. Cinamon
Theatre ∑ cinema.lt
Laisvės 5, Panevėžys. Klaipėda State Music Mr. Bond
Tel (45) 584 614. Theatre Žvejų 10, Klaipėda. Forum Cinemas
∑ miltinio-teatras.lt Danės 19. Tel (46) 397 404. Tel 6086 1007. ∑ forumcinemas.lt

354 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Entertainment in Vilnius St Casimir (see p236). On week-
days during term time, students
The range of entertainment on offer in Vilnius has changed and professors at the Lithuanian
rapidly in recent years. Trendy clubs and lounge bars have Academy of Music often give
sprung up, but, at the same time, there has been a resurgence free-of-charge recitals at
of traditional folk singing and dancing. Sutartinės, music with different venues in the city.
The standard of opera and
rural roots, helped sustain national identity through the ballet is generally high in Vilnius,
periods of occu pation and today it has made a comeback in although the repertoire is fairly
folk-themed restaurants. Classical music was promoted conser vative. In addition to
during the Soviet period, but it was also significant in the classical performances, the
20th-century national revivals. Classical music, opera and innovative choreography of the
Anželika Cholina Dance Theatre
ballet performances in Vilnius are excellent. Live music is attracts big audiences and is very
played in several key venues frequented by a small but popular among locals and
enthusiastic and faithful crowd. Tourist infor mation points visitors. The famous National
provide news on most cultural events. Opera & Ballet Theatre is funded
by Lithuania’s Ministry of Culture.
Tickets for its performances often
sell out quickly and it is advisable
to visit the ticket office to check
on availability.

Folk Music
Lithuania’s folk music can be
heard in folk-themed restau-
rants, which are as popular with
locals as they are with visitors.
For an authentic experience,
A scene from the play Three Sisters at the State Small Theatre of Vilnius enjoy the music with a tradi-
tional meal of meat-and-
Information
provide pre-recorded English potatoes and Lithuanian beer
Vilnius In Your Pocket, which translations for some perform- at venues such as the rustic
covers the whole spectrum of ances, which can be heard Fort Dvaras (see p326) or the
restaurants, entertainment and using headphones. atmospheric Marceliukės Klėtis.
shopping, as well as upcoming Folk festivals are often played
events, is available at numerous out in the courtyards and halls
shops and kiosks and most of Classical Music, Opera of Vilnius University (see pp224–
the city’s hotels. Brochures and and Ballet 5), or in more low-key spots
leaflets about cultural events can Vilnius has a good classical music such as the Teachers’ House.
be found at the capital’s tourist scene. Both the opulent National
informa tion centres. Posters are Philharmonic and the contemp-
another source of information. orary Congress Palace hold Rock, Blues and Pop
Tickets for concerts, opera, superb concerts. Chamber music Several outstanding Lithuanian
ballet and plays can be pur- concerts are often held at rock and pop performers play
chased at the appropriate the atmospheric Church of regularly at atmospheric venues
venue or booking kiosks. Tickets St Catherine (see p241) and, such as Tamsta Club, Brodvėjus
for all major events in Lithuania occasion ally, at the Church of and the Forum Palace. Names
can be bought online from
Bilietai LT.

Theatre
The residents of Vilnius have a
passion for theatre. Productions
by two of the country’s most
outstanding directors, Oskaras
Koršunovas and Eimuntas
Nekrošius, are highly
recommended. The Lithuanian
National Drama Theatre and
the more avant-garde State
Small Theatre of Vilnius A classical music concert in progress at the Congress Palace

ENTER T AINMENT IN LITHU ANIA 355


Nightlife
Though a little quieter than
many other European capitals,
Vilnius has an abundance of
bars and clubs featuring a
variety of music genres and
both local and international DJs.
The uproarious Bix is for heavy
metal fans, while Mojo Lounge,
hosting parties of all kinds in
the Old Town, attracts the best
DJs. A little more central are
Paparazzi, popular for its
friendly atmosphere and wide
range of cocktails, and Pabo
Latino, a nightclub specializing
in Latin rhythms. Bands often
Live band playing at the Tamsta Club in the Old Town play live at Aula.
to look out for include the jazz was associated with
punky Biplan, the singer and freedom. The birth of Lithuania’s Cinema
songwriter Andrius Mamontovas modern jazz scene came in Vilnius has two modern
and the more soulful Jurga. 1961, at a recital by 17-year-old multiplex cinemas, both ope r-
International artistes on tour pianist Vyacheslav Ganelin at ated by Forum Cinemas (see
tend to play at the modern the Academy of Music, during p353). One of them is housed
Siemens Arena or the which the audience was in the Coca-Cola Plaza, while
less pretentious Utenos mesmerized. Ganelin still makes the other is in the Akropolis
Entertainment Centre, which rare appearances in Vilnius, shopping centre. Films from
doubles as an ice rink. often with saxophonist Petras other coun tries are usually
Vyšniauskas. Another big name screened in their original
to look out for is singer-flautist lang uage with Lithuanian sub-
Jazz
Neda Malūnavičiūtė. titles. Lithuanian films do not
With a small but fanatical The best jazz in town is usually have English subtitles.
following, jazz forms an inex- showcased at the Vilnius Jazz Art-house cinemas have all but
tricable part of the Lithuanian festival, which is held in dis appeared. A rare survivor,
lifestyle. During the Soviet era, October (see p213). however, is Skalvija.
DIRECTORY
Information Congress Palace Rock, Blues Jazz
Vilniaus 6–14. and Pop
Bilietai LT Vilnius Jazz
Tel 261 8828.
∑ bilietai.lt Brodvėjus ∑ vilniusjazz.lt
∑ lvso.lt
Vokiečių 4.
Theatre National Opera & Tel 210 7208. Nightlife
Ballet Theatre ∑ brodvejus.lt
Lithuanian National Vienuolio 1. Aula
Drama Theatre Forum Palace Pilies 11. Tel 268 7173.
Gedimino 4. Tel 262 0727. Konstitucijos 26.
Tel 262 1593. ∑ opera.lt Tel 263 6666. Bix
∑ teatras.lt Etmonų 6. Tel 262 7791.
National Philharmonic ∑ forumpalace.lt
State Small Theatre Aušros vartų 5. Siemens Arena Mojo Lounge
of Vilnius Tel 266 5216. Vokiečių 2.
Gedimino 22. ∑ filharmonija.lt Ozo 14. Tel 6576 6500.
Tel 249 9869. Tel 247 7576.
∑ vmt.lt Folk Music ∑ siemens-arena.lt Pablo Latino
Tamsta Club Trakų 3. Tel 6576 6500.
Classical Music, Marceliukės Klėtis A Strazdelio 1. Paparazzi
Opera and Ballet Tuskulėnų gatvė 35. Tel 212 4498. Totorių 3. Tel 212 0135.
Tel 5272 5087. ∑ tamstaclub.lt
Anželika Cholina Cinema
Dance Theatre Teachers’ House Utenos
Šimulionio 4–103. Vilniaus 39. Entertainment Centre Skalvija
Tel 6883 4181. Tel 262 3514. Ąžuolyno 9. A Goštauto 2–15.
∑ ach.lt ∑ kultura.lt Tel 242 4444. ∑ skalvija.lt

356 TRA VELLERS ' NEEDS

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND

SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS

Bereft of dramatic peaks and raging rivers, the discover the region on horseback are endless,
Baltic States neverthe less abound with subtle with excursions for both novices and experi-
charms and this has helped develop rural enced riders. Winter changes the landscape,
tour ism in the three countries. Exploring the and skiing, ice-skating, snowboarding and
lakes and rivers allows the scenery to unfold at snowmobiling take over. For visi tors who
a leisurely pace, while back on land, the forests simply want to relax, the region has a series
are perfect for ramb ling. Fishing, berry- and of stylish spa resorts which draw on decades of
mushroom-picking and bird-watching are tradition. Brewery tours tempt those impressed
among the most popular activities and can by local beer. However, the infrastructure varies
easily be arranged by reputable tour operators. from region to region and it is best to contact a
The opportunities for those who wish to reputable tour operator.

Information
Tourism, Latvia‘s Country
In the Baltic States, most tourist Holidays (Lauku ceļotājs) and
information centres have lists of the Lithuanian Countryside
both state-run and private tour Tourism Association.
operators, who organize a
variety of outdoor activities
depending on the time of year. Bird-Watching
Most companies have their own Located on major migration
dedicated websites (see p361). routes, with a high proportion
of fish-rich wetlands and little
intensive farming, the Baltic
Rural Tourism
States are an ideal destination
The development of rural for bird-watchers. Ducks, geese,
tourism as an organized activity swans, corncrakes, bitterns,
began in the mid-1990s with common coots and white storks
support from the Ministry of are easily spotted. Bird-watching tower near Lake
Agriculture, along with other It has been estimated that Lubans, Latvia
organizations. It has now around 50 million waterfowl,
become one of the biggest including most of the world’s best in October at Põõsaspea
tourist attractions in the Baltic tundra swans and barnacle Cape, close to Haapsalu. Several
region, and it is often advisable geese, visit Estonia’s coastal tour operators, including
to arrange for accommodation wetlands every spring. The peak Estonian Nature Tours, arrange
well in advance. Bookings can time for bird-watching is the bird-watching trips. For further
be made through the various beginning of May at sites such as information contact Estonian
rural tourism associations (see Matsalu National Park (see p93). Ornithological Society.
p295), such as Estonian Rural The autumn migra tion is at its Good bird-watching spots in
Latvia include Gauja National
Park (see pp190–93) and Lake
Lubans (see p202). The Engure
Ornithological Centre, situated
in Lake Engure (see p176), has
been monitoring and
protecting duck populations
since 1958. The Latvian Birding
website keeps up-to-date lists
of sightings in the country.
Over 330 species of birds can
be spotted in Lithuania, including
great snipes, white-tailed eagles,
ferruginous ducks, corncrakes
and aquatic warblers, among
which are endangered species
that breed in the country. The
Latvia’s Ķemeri National Park, home to a large number of birds main migration route follows the

OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES 357


Among the Lithuanian
companies offering walking
trips, the Nemunas Tour is one
of the most popular.

Cycling
The relatively flat terrain and
breathtaking scenery of the Baltic
States makes cycling a pleasant
way to get around. However,
mountain bikers will find little to
challenge their skills. It is not all
smooth riding, though, as some
roads are in poor condition. A
Cyclists on a winding path in Gauja National Park, Latvia popular international route is the
EuroVelo route 10, which runs
coast and crosses the Curonian Latvia’s Gauja National Park is along the north of Estonia
Spit, and a particularly good good for walking, particularly through Tallinn, across to the
spot is the Vente Horn on the along the well-marked Līgatne islands of Hiiumaa and Saaremaa
tip of the Nemunas Delta Nature Trail (see p193). There are via ferry, on to Rīga and then
National Park (see p287). The also numerous short trails further south to Klaipėda.
biggest draws are the migra- in the Tērvete Nature Park Bicycle rental is easy in
tions in spring and autumn, (see p171) and visitors Estonia and Latvia, while
mainly between September and looking for hills might in Lithuania there are hire
early October. Early spring is a head for the Latgale outlets in the larger towns
good time to observe seabirds, Uplands (see p202). Tour and cities. A good point
owls, woodpeckers and grouse, companies, such as Eži, of contact for all three
while the largest number of organize walking trips in countries is BaltiCCycle, a
species can be spotted during Valmiera (see p194). non-profit organization
the breeding season between Lithuania has almost 300 which provides details of
late May and early June. hiking trails, of which organized tours, bicycle
The Lithuanian Society of around 170 are in rental and self-guided
Ornithologists also arranges regional or national A cycle sign at cycling. It is also
bird-watching tours. parks. Dzūkija National Vaide, Latvia possible to hire a bike
Park (see p260) is a in one Baltic country
favourite and some of its paths and return it in another.
Hiking and Trekking
and facilities have been In Estonia, popular areas for
Despite their lack of hilly terrain, especially adapted for disabled cycling include Lahemaa
the Baltic States attract walkers visitors. Short, well-signposted National Park and the islands
with their extensive forests, walks include the 5-km (3-mile) of Muhu (see p95), Saaremaa
attractive rivers, lakes and rural long Šeirė Nature Trail and the and Hiiumaa. City Bike is a
calm. The relatively high chance route through the Čepkelių bog notable organization that
of spotting wild life such as roe from the park’s headquarters. provides cycling tours and
deer, wild boar, moose and rental services in Estonia.
wolves also draws a number of Easy rides in Latvia include
walkers here. Each country the route from Rīga to Jūrmala
has a good selection of well- (see pp174–5), while the best
marked trails with campsites opportunity for mountain
and guesthouses along the biking is in the Gauja Valley
way, and local tourist offices near Sigulda (see p192). There
can suggest routes or arrange are marked biking routes
guides for visitors. around Kuldīga (see p183) and
In Estonia, Lahemaa National from Cēsis (see p192–3) to
Park (see pp110–11) has trails Valmiera; Eži arranges trips in
of varying lengths covering a the latter area.
diverse terrain. There are also The Lithuanian section of the
pleasant routes surrounding Baltic Coast route includes an
Tartu (see pp118–19) and on the attractive stretch between
islands of Saaremaa (see pp96–7) Palanga (see p286) and Klaipėda
and Hiiumaa (see pp94–5). (see pp284–5). There is also a
A more unusual activity is marked route along the coast
bog-walking in Soomaa The rolling hills of Dzukija National Park, of the Curonian Lagoon to
National Park (see pp104–5). Lithuania Nemunas Delta National Park.

358 TRA VELLERS ' NEEDS


tench and grayling. Fishing
permits are required throughout
the region, and additional
licences are required for some
areas. Major tour operators can
provide or assist visitors in
obtaining the required permits.
Estonia’s long coastline offers
numerous angling opportunities.
Inland, several companies
organize fishing trips to Lake
Peipsi (see p127) and Lahemaa
National Park. A good starting
point is Estfly, a fishing club
located in Kunda midway
between Tallinn and Narva,
which issues permits that can
Riders practising their equestrian skills, Pärnu, Estonia other wise be difficult to arrange.
In Latvia, Lake Engure and Lake
Horse-Riding
In Latvia, tourist attractions Kaņieris in Ķemeri National Park
Horses are a common sight offering horse-riding include (see p174) are particularly good
in the rural areas of the Baltic the Līgatne Nature Trail. Visitors for pike. There are also many
States, especially in Latvia’s interested in emotional therapy other suitable lakes in the Latgale
Latgale region, where tradi tional can visit Zirgzandales near and Vidzeme regions, and fish
ploughing methods still persist Rīga. Lietuvos Žirgynas, farms around the country. The
alongside mechani zed farming. Lithuania’s oldest and biggest Latvian Anglers Association can
Horses can be hired at most horse-breeding farm, about provide information on fishing
horse-breeding farms; some 10 km (6 miles) north of Vilnius, sites, and permits are usually easy
farms also offer instruction. breeds about 300 Lithuanian to obtain.
It may be possible to hire Žemaitukas, Arabic and The key spots in Lithuania
carriages, traps and even horse- Trakehner horses and Shetland are in the east of the country,
drawn sleighs during winter. ponies and has the country's particularly near Ignalina in the
The sandy tracks of Lahemaa largest indoor riding hall. Aukštaitija National Park (see
National Park are popular for pp270–71) and Molėtai Lakelands
horse-riding in Estonia. One (see p269), and in the south. The
unusual option is the Tihuse Fishing Nemunas river is also popular,
Riding Farm on the island of Fishing is a very popular year- particularly around the town of
Muhu, where guests can also round activity in the Baltic Rusnė, as is the Curonian Spit
participate in ploughing fields States. In winter, hardy local (see pp288–9). Most fishing tackle
with the help of horses. Visitors people trek out onto frozen shops and park offices sell
to the Tori Stud Farm (see p105), lakes and cut holes in the ice. licences; otherwise they are
in Estonia, can enjoy a tour of the Common fish include perch, available from the Lithuanian
farm in a horse-drawn carriage. brown trout, pike, carp, bream, Fishing Services.




















Fishermen angling from the banks of the Lielupe river in Jelgava, Latvia

OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES 359


Mushroom- and
Berry-Picking
Picking berries in spring and
mushrooms during autumn
are popular activities in the
Baltic States. In fact, mush-
rooms are often a source of
income in rural areas.
Often, the best way to
arrange mushroom- and berry-
picking is to ask your hotel or
guesthouse to organize it. It is
advisable to take a local along
for guidance on both where
to look and which varieties of
mushroom are edible and tasty.
The Estonian Rural Tourism Canoeing in Soomaa National Park, Estonia
website has details of farms
which can offer mushroom- skiing in Latvia is Žagarkalns, Water Activities
and berry-picking. The Džukija located close to Cēsis, but there With hundreds of rivers and
and Aukštaitija national parks are numerous other options lakes, and an extensive coastline,
offer some of the best listed in the Country Holidays the Baltic States offer ample
opportunities. Visitors must website (see p295). Visitors opportunities for canoeing,
bear in mind that it is usually seeking adventure should try kayaking, windsurfing and
illegal to pick the cran berries the bobsleigh run in Sigulda rafting. The lack of any serious
which grow on peat bogs. oper ated by Taxi Bob. In rapids may deter keen white-
Berry-picking with Vaskna Lithuania, Ignalina is a favoured water enthusiasts, but it is perfect
Turismitalu near Võru also destina tion for skiers. The for leisurely river excursions.
teaches visitors how to make Lithuanian Winter Sports Canoeing is one of the best
traditional alcoholic Christmas Centre is one of several options ways to explore the wilder ness
drinks. The website of in the area, with four downhill of Soomaa National Park in
Countryside Tourism of pistes, cross-country skiing and Estonia, where visitors can also
Lithuania has useful infor- a ska ting rink. For ice-skating on try to build haabjas (longboats).
mation on mushroom- frozen lakes, including Trakai, A number of water activities are
and berry-picking. visitors may contact Kempingas provided by Vesipapp, Surf
Slėnyje. Camping Villa Paradise and Reimann Retked.
Ventainė regularly organizes Of the Baltic countries, Latvia
Winter Sports
snowmobiling and ice-fishing has the most developed water
With long winters usually on the Curonian Lagoon. tourism and the Gauja river is a
providing several months popular spot. Specialist
of snow coverage, it is not operator Campo offers
surprising that cross-country a range of river trips
skiing is popular. What may be and Pāvilosta Marina
more unexpected is the number arran ges catamaran
of downhill ski runs in a region sailing lessons. In
where the highest point is just Lithuania, the Aukštaitija
about 318 m (1,043 ft) above region, with almost
sea level. Although the Baltic 300 lakes linked by
States do not attract hardcore waterways, allows
skiers and snow boarders, there tour companies to
are adequate opportunities for create multi-day sailing
those who enjoy the sport. trips. Else where, the
In Estonia, some of the best Trakai National Sports
skiing, snowboarding, and Health Centre
snow mobiling, snowtubing and offers kayaking,
ski-jumping are found around canoeing, yachting and
Otepää (see p122), such as diving. Similarly, the
at Kuutsemäe Resort. Cross- Zarasai Water Sports
country skiing is also possible at Centre offers water-
the Soomaa National Park. skiing and windsurfing.
Details for winter activities are Klaipėda’s Oktopusas
listed on the Estonian Rural diving centre arranges
Tourism website (see p295). Enthusiasts enjoying skiing in Kuutsemäe, dives in lakes and
A premier spot for downhill Otepää, Estonia the Baltic Sea.

360 TRA VELLERS ' NEEDS


era, drawing visitors from across
the former Soviet Union for relax-
ation or medi cal treatment. There
was a decline in the spa industry
after independence. However,
since then new spa hotels have
opened and older ones have been
renovated. Treatments are cheaper
than in Western Europe, and
there are special deals in winter.
There are several spa hotels
on the Estonian islands and
also establishments within, and
close to, the capital, such as the
Kalev Spa, a huge faci lity on
the edge of the Old Town, and
Meriton Spa at the Park
Latvian ice-hockey player in action in an IIHF World Championship match Inn hotel. The Estonian Spa
Association represents several
Spectator Sports
members of the Estonian Golf of the country’s spas.
The Baltic States are among the Association. The Estonian Golf The main spot for a spa break
few parts of Europe where & Country Club is seeking to be in Latvia is Jūrmala, a string
football is not the dominant a part of the PGA Tour. There are of seaside towns pro viding
spectator sport. The region’s most 18-hole courses in Otepää, everything from lively bars to
enthusiastic football fans are the Saaremaa and Tallinn, the last of secluded beaches. Another
Estonians, and their national which is well maintained. good choice is the Spa Hotel
team has improved in recent The premier course in Latvia is Ezeri (see p303).
years. However, in Estonia, the at the Ozo Golf Club on Rīga’s In Lithuania, the best spas
biggest of the stadium sports is outskirts, while the country’s can be found in Druskininkai
basketball and major fixtures can other 18-hole course is Saliena, (see p259), one of which is
be seen at the Kalev Stadium. located between Rīga and Spa Vilnius. Palanga is also a
In Latvia, the most popular Jūrmala. Golf clubs in Lithuania popular spa destination.
sport is ice hockey, parti cularly with 18-hole courses include
since the national team beat Sostinių and Europos Centro.
Russia in the 2000 Ice Hockey There are also plans to open a Brewery Tours
Championships. Many of the best golf complex near Klaipėda, Beer brewing has a celebrated
players are members of overseas featur ing an additional spa hotel. history in the Baltic States,
teams, making domestic games a and there are several brewery
little lacklustre, but support is tours available in the region.
enthusiastic for international Spa Breaks Try A Le Coq Brewery in
games at the Arena Rīga. Visitors There have been health resorts in Estonia or the Užavas or
to Daugavpils will find the city in the Baltic States since the 19th Valmiermuižas facilities in
the thrall of speedway racing. century, although there is evi- Latvia. Lithuania has the best
Enthusiasts should not miss a dence of mud and spring water choice of breweries open to
visit to the Lokomotive Stadium. being used in folk medicine the public, including Utenos,
The most popular spectator much earlier. The resorts were Švyturys, Volfas Engelman,
sport in Lithuania is basket ball. hugely popular during the Soviet Kalnapilis and Rinkuškiai.
The national team has won a
bronze medal at the Olympic
Games three times and was the
European cham pion in 2003.
Žalgiris Kaunas and Lietuvos
Rytas Vilnius are the leading
domestic teams. To watch
players practising, visit the
Siemens Arena.

Golf
Soviet Russians were not keen
on golf, so the sport is rela tively
new to the region and there are
few good courses. In Estonia, a
number of golf clubs are Entrance to the Spa Vilnius, one of the best spas in Druskininkai, Lithuania

OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES 361


DIRECTORY
Bird-Watching Fishing Pāvilosta Marina Saliena
Egļuciems, Babītes
Ostmalas 4, Pāvilosta,
Engure Estfly Latvia. Tel 2748 0131. Pagasts, Latvia. Tel 716
Ornithological Centre Mäe 22–21, Kunda. ∑ pavilostamarina.lv 0300. ∑ capitals.lt
Tel 2847 4420. Tel 5645 2789. Sostinių
∑ eedp.lv ∑ estfly.com Reimann Retked Pipiriškių k, Pastrėvio sen,
Tel 511 4099.
Estonian Nature Latvian Anglers ∑ retked.ee Lithuania. Tel 6199 9999.
Tours Association ∑ kalevspa.ee
Linnuse tee 1, Lāčplēša 23–17. Tel 2928 Surf Paradise Spa Breaks
Läänemaa. 5934. ∑ dzivaisudens.lv Ristna, Hiiumaa, Estonia.
∑ paap.ee
Tel 477 8214. Estonian Spa
Lithuanian Fishing
∑ naturetours.ee Trakai National Sports Association
Services
and Health Centre Sadama 9–11, Haapsalu.
Estonian Taikos 43, Neringa.
Ornithological Tel 6762 2766. ∑ lithua Karaimų 73, Lithuania. ∑ estonianspas.eu
Society nianfishing.com Tel 5285 5501. Kalev Spa
Veski 4, Tartu. Vesipapp Aia 18, Tallinn. Tel 649
Tel 742 2195. Mushroom- and Tel 511 9117. 3300. ∑ kalevspa.ee
∑ eoy.ee Berry-Picking ∑ vesipapp.ee
Meriton Spa
Latvian Birding Countryside Tourism Zarasai Water Sports Toompuiestee 27, Estonia.
∑ putni.lv Tel 3740 0354. Centre Tel 667 7111.
∑ atostogoskaime.lt Laukesos village, Zarasai, ∑ parkinn.com
Lithuanian Society of Lithuania. Tel 6123 6862.
Ornithologists Vaskna Turismitalu ∑ poilsiobaze.lt Spa Vilnius
Naugarduko 47–33, Haanja vald, Võrumaa, Dineikos k 1, Druskininkai.
Vilnius. Tel 8521 30498. Estonia. Tel 782 9173. Spectator Sports Tel 3135 3811.
∑ birdlife.lt ∑ spa-vilnius.lt
Winter Sports Arena Rīga
Hiking and Skanstes iela 21. Brewery Tours
Trekking Camping Villa Tel 6738 8200.
Ventainė ∑ arenariga.lv A Le Coq Brewery
Eži Ventės k, Lithuania. Laulupeo 15, Tartu,
Beātes iela 30a, Valmiera, Tel 4416 8525. Kalev Stadium Estonia. Tel 744 9711.
Latvia. Tel 6420 7263. ∑ ventaine.lt Juhkentali tänav 12, ∑ alecoq.ee
∑ ezi.lv Kempingas Slėnyje Tallinn. Tel 644 5171. Kalnapilis
Nemunas Tour Slėnio 1, Trakai, Lithuania. Lokomotive Stadium Taikos avenue 1,
Gėlių 50, Ringaudai, Tel 5285 3880. Jelgavas iela 54, Panevėžys, Lithuania. Tel
262 7526. ∑ kalnapilis.lt
Lithuania. Tel 3756 3766. ∑ camptrakai.lt Daugavpils, Lithuania.
∑ nemunastour.com Kuutsemäe Resort ∑ lokomotive.lv Rinkuškiai
Tel 766 9007. Siemens Arena Alyvų 8, Birži, Lithuania.
Cycling Ozo 14, Lithuania. Tel 4503 5293.
∑ kuutsemae.ee
Tel 5247 7576. ∑ rinkuskiai.lt
BaltiCCycle Lithuanian Winter ∑ siemensarena.lt
Tel 6995 6009. Sports Centre Švyturys
∑ bicycle.lt Sporto 3, Ignalina. Golf Kūlių vartų 7, Klaipėda,
Lithuania. Tel 4648 4000.
City Bike Tel 3865 4193. ∑ lzsc.lt. ∑ svyturys.lt
Estonian Golf
Vene 33, Tallinn. Taxi Bob Association Utenos
Tel 511 1819. Peldu iela 2, Sigulda, Tel 504 1792. Pramonės 12, Utena,
∑ citybike.ee Latvia. Tel 2924 4948. ∑ golf.ee Lithuania.
∑ taxibob.lv ∑ utenosalus.lt
Horse-Riding Estonian Golf &
Žagarkalns Country Club Užavas
Lietuvos Žirgynas Tel 2626 6266. Manniva küla, Jõelähtme, Užavas pagasts, Ventspils,
Žirgų 2, Riešė, Lithuania. ∑ zagarkalns.lv Harjumaa. Tel 602 5290. Latvia. Tel 6363 0595.
Tel 610 02810. ∑ egcc.ee ∑ uzavas-alus.lv
Water Activities
Tihuse Riding Farm Europos Centro Valmiermuižas
Hellamaa, Muhu, Estonia. Campo Girijos village, Lithuania. Dzirnavu iela 2, Valmiera,
Tel 514 8667. Kronu 23d, Rīga. Tel 2922 Tel 6162 6366. Latvia. Tel 2026 4269.
∑ tihuse.ee 2339. ∑ campo.laivas.lv ∑ golfclub.lt ∑ valmiermuiza.lv
Zirgzandales Oktopusas Ozo Golf Club Volfas Engelman
Mārupes novads, near Mainų 29, Klaipėda, Milgravja 16, Rīga. Kaunakiemio 2, Kaunas,
Rīga. Tel 2912 8841. Lithuania. Tel 4638 1850. Tel 739 4399. Lithuania. Tel 8007 2427.
∑ eng.zirgzandales.lv ∑ oktopusas.lt ∑ ozogolf.lv ∑ volfasengelman.lt



SURVIVAL


GUIDE






Practical Information 364–375
Travel Information 376–393

364 SUR VIV AL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

After so many years of being excluded from centres that often extends into small towns
the map of Europe, the Baltic States of Estonia, and offers an abundance of useful literature
Latvia and Lithuania are now drawing a great to help visitors get the best out of their trip.
number of eager visitors to discover the Moreover, with the region’s capitals only a
region’s hidden treasures. These countries are relatively short drive away from each other,
extremely visitor-friendly destinations that it is easy to explore the Baltic States either
offer a wealth of historic sights and cultural individually or as a whole. Tour operators are
activities as well as great natural beauty, good growing in number and offer a good variety
food and fascinating insights into the region’s of packages. The practical information below
complex past. Each country has a well- and on pages 366–7 covers each of the three
developed network of tourist information Baltic States.


When to Visit
The best time to visit the Baltic
States is from May to October,
when the weather is generally
mild and rarely very cold. It is an
ideal time to explore the region’s
natural wonders by visiting one
of the many national parks or
taking long treks in the country-
side, camping or going swim-
ming in the sea or one of the
numerous lakes. The best festivals
generally take place in summer,
while some small museums and
historic sights are only open
between May and September.
The Old Towns of Tallinn and
Rīga are especially crow ded at
the peak of summer. Vilnius’s
larger Old Town, however, is less
cramped. Autumn is often Impressive building of the French Embassy in Rīga, Latvia
splendid in the Baltic States, but
the weather can abruptly turn significantly at any time. The least Travel Safety Advice
chilly as early as October. pleasant time to visit is January, Visitors can get up-to-date travel
The capitals are also very the coldest month, and the rainy safety information from the
atmospheric in winter, when they month of April, when the snow Foreign and Commonwealth
are blanketed in snow, although melts into a mass of sludge. Office in the UK (www.gov.uk/
temperatures can plunge foreign-travel-advice), the
State Department in the US
Visas and Passports
(www.travel.state.gov) and
Citizens of EU member states, the the Department of Foreign
USA, Canada, Australia and New Affairs and Trade in Australia
Zealand only need a valid passport (www.dfat.gov.au or www.
for entry into Estonia, Latvia and smartraveller.gov.au).
Lithuania for a period of up to
90 days in a half-year period.
Those wishing to stay beyond Customs Regulations
the permitted 90 days will need to EU citizens are not subject to
apply for a national long-term visa customs regulations, provided
or a residence permit. Visitors from they adhere to EU guidelines.
other countries should enquire at All visitors should check for any
the relevant embassy or consulate customs duty or special permi-
for visa requirements before travel- ssion required to export a cultural
ling. The official websites of the object, before buy ing it. For
Ministry of Foreign Affairs for detailed information on all these
Street café close to Vilnius Cathedral, each of the three countries offers guidelines, ent rance regulations
Vilnius, Lithuania information on visa regulations. and visa cost, it is advisable to
Velo-taxi on Tallinn’s Town Hall Square

PRA C TICAL INFORM A TION 365


DIRECTORY
Visas and Passports
Estonia
∑ vm.ee
Latvia
∑ am.gov.lv
Lithuania
∑ urm.lt
Customs Regulations
∑ ec.europa.eu
Tourist Information
Visitors at the tourist information office in Tallinn, Estonia ∑ visitestonia.com
∑ latvia.travel
visit the official website of the people, who are always eager to ∑ lithuania.travel
European Commission. promote their area and can offer
information on accommodation, Embassies and
museums, historic sights, nature Consulates in Tallinn
Tourist Information
trails, entertainment and restau-
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania rants. Free brochures covering Canada
have a remarkably well- local and national sights and Toomkooli 13. Tel 627 3311.
∑ canada.ee
developed network of events are available at these
tourist information offices, which also sell UK
centres supported by an more detailed maps and Wismari 6. Tel 667 4700.
equally advanced guide books at nominal ∑ ukinestonia.fco.gov.uk
structure of tourism rates. For a full list of all US
web sites. All cities and tourist information Kentmanni 20. Tel 668 8100.
most major towns have offices across each ∑ estonia.usembassy.gov
a tourist information Logo, country, visit their
office, which is usually Lithuanian Tourism websites. Latvia and Embassies and
located in or close to the Lithuania also have Consulates in RĪga
town square. In the case of very tourist information centres
small towns, the office is often in the UK, Finland, Germany, Australia
situated in a museum or within Sweden and Russia. Vilandes iela 7. Tel 6732 0509.
some other historic build ing. Canada
Tourist offices in cities and larger Business Hours Baznīcas iela 20/22.
towns are open from 9am Throughout Estonia, Latvia and Tel 6781 3945.
to 6pm on weekdays. The offices Lithuania, banks and state institu-
are open for shorter hours on tions are generally open from 9am France
Saturdays and are usually open on to 5 or 6pm. Private businesses are Raina bulvāris 9. Tel 6703 6600.
Sundays. In remote places, open- increasingly working longer hours UK
ing hours are more erratic and it is and are open from 9am to any- J Alunana iela 5. Tel 6777 4700.
advisable to check in advance. where between 6 and 8pm. ∑ ukinlatvia.fco.gov.uk
Tourist offices are staffed by For opening hours of shops,
friendly, English-speaking local see pages 332, 336 and 340. US
S Velsa 1. Tel 6710 7000.
Embassies and
Consulates in Vilnius
Australia
Vilniaus 23. Tel 212 3369.
Canada
Jogailos 4. Tel 249 0950.
UK
Antakalnio 2. Tel 246 2900.
∑ ukinlithuania.fco.gov.uk
US
Akmenų 6. Tel 266 5500.
∑ vilnius.usembassy.gov
Imposing exterior of the Hipoteku Bank in Limbaži, Latvia

366 SUR VIV AL GUIDE






















Exhibition on the Lithuanian partisans in the KGB Museum (see p242) in Vilnius, Lithuania
Museums, Churches many museums open for (both buses and trolleybuses),
and Historic Sights
shorter hours or just remain free entry to museums and
Museums in the Baltic States closed. Some historic sights can discounts on tours, accom-
keep rather erratic hours, so it is only be visited as part of a modation and restaurants.
advisable to check opening guided tour. Organizers often
times before visiting. Usually, try to accommodate single
they open from 10am to 5 or visitors into a group. Admission Charges
6pm during summer, although In all three Baltic States,
in some cases they open at admission charges vary
11am or even midday. Monday Discount Card Schemes considerably depending
is the official closing day for A cost-effective way of explor- on the type of museum and
most museums, though some ing Tallinn, Vilnius and Rīga is to where it is located. Most
are also closed on Tuesdays. purchase a city card. The Tallinn museums away from the
Nearly all museums open on Card costs €31 for 24 hours, €19 capitals are quite reasonably
Saturdays and many on for 48 hours and €49 for 72 priced. Ticket prices in Tallinn,
Sundays. However, tour hours. It entitles holders to free Rīga and Vilnius are more
operators often arrange for entrance to 40 major expensive, but still
museums to open for a group. museums and tourist reasonable. Students
Other sights, such as castles sights, free sightseeing and senior citizens can
and churches, tend to have tours, use of public obtain discounts. State
fairly regular opening hours in trans port and admission museums in Estonia
summer, between 9 or 10am to a range of entertain- offer free entrance on
and 4 or 5pm, Tuesday to ment venues, including the last Saturday of each
Saturday. In winter, however, a bowling centre, a month. In Latvia, state
water park and a major museums give free
night club. It can also get admission on the last
visitors a discount in Wednesday of each
many restau rants and Ticket to month, and in Lithuania
shops. The card is on St Peter’s, Rīga many museums do not
sale at tourist infor- charge an entrance fee
mation centres, hotels, travel on Wednesdays.
agents, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn
Port and online. The Rīga Card
costs €16 for 24 hours, €20 for What to Wear
48 hours and €26 for 72 hours. The chilly winters in the Baltic
It entitles holders to free admis- countries make thick layers of
sion to many museums, a cloth ing necessary, as well as
walking tour of the Old Town gloves, hats and thick-soled
and a discount at a range of water proof shoes. In summer,
hotels. There are two types of lightweight gar ments are usually
Vilnius City Card, 24 hours and adequate, but it is best to carry a
St Nicholas’s Orthodox Cathedral (see p185) 72 hours. The card entitles jacket for the even ings. In spring,
in Liepāja, Latvia holders to free public transport carry an umbrella. Comfortable

PRA C TICAL INFORM A TION 367


footwear is recommended for
walking on the cobbled streets
of Rīga and Tallinn.

Travelling with Children
The Baltic States are extremely
child-friendly. Most parks have
play areas and some even have
a range of distrac tions, such as
bouncy toy castles and
trampolines. Many traditional-
style taverns and ethnographic
museums also provide some
wonderfully old-fashioned play
apparatus for children. Some
hotels offer childcare facilities.
For information on eating out Children playing at the Seaside Open-Air Museum (see p181), Ventspils, Latvia
with children, see pages 308–9.
places due to the extremely closer to Finnish. German is quite
narrow streets and pavements. commonly spoken as a second
Disabled Travellers
Public transport is another language in all three Baltic States,
Although there has been a major obstacle as trams, while virtually everybody is
significant improvement in trolleybuses and fluent in Russian. However,
recent years, Estonia, Latvia trains do not communi cating in English
and Lithuania do not provide provide wheel chair in the capital cities is
many facilities for disabled access in Tallinn and seldom a problem –
people. Most of the new Rīga, and only a very most people speak
upmarket hotels and limited number of it to some extent.
restaurants have taken buses do. The Knowledge of
disabled travellers’ needs situation is better in English is less wide-
into consideration, but such Vilnius, where a large spread in rural areas.
places are few and far number of buses and Signpost at For common words and
between. Owing to their trolleybuses have access Limbaži, Latvia phrases used in the three
historic structure, the Old for disabled people. For languages, refer to the
Towns of the three capital information on access for Phrase Book on pages 411–16.
cities are extremely difficult for disabled travellers in hotels,
disabled people to nego tiate. see page 295.
In Tallinn, there are several Measures and
steep, winding cobble stoned Electrical Appliances
streets, and Rīga’s Old Town is Language The Baltic States all use the
also predominantly cobbled. Both Latvian and Lithuanian metric system. The mains
Although very little of Vilnius’s belong to the Baltic family of voltage is 230 volts in Estonia
Old Town is cobbled, it is still languages. Estonians speak a and Lithuania and 220 volts in
difficult to get around in many Finno-Ugric dialect, which is Latvia. Standard Continental
European two-pin plugs are
used. Although UK plug adapt-
ers are available, they are not
easy to find, so it is advisable to
bring any necessary adapters
with you.

Local Time
The clocks of the Baltic States
are set to Eastern European
Standard Time and are two
hours ahead of Greenwich
Mean Time (GMT+2) and seven
hours ahead of Eastern Standard
Time (EST+7). Clocks go forward
one hour on the last Sunday in
March and go back one hour on
The cobbled Viru Street in Tallinn’s Old Town the last Sunday in October.

368 SUR VIV AL GUIDE


Personal Security and Health problem, but visitors should take
care of wallets and handbags.
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania are generally safe countries, with In Rīga, avoid using the
relatively rare instances of theft and mugging. However, tunnels around Central Station
visitors should remain vigilant in the capitals, particu larly in at night; use the traffic light
and around the Old Towns. Generally, Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius crossings instead. It is also a
good idea to avoid using
are far safer than many other Western capitals, although the ATMs in quiet spots at night.
same precautions should be exercised as in any other major Also, never carry large
city in the world. The quality of medical care is improving and amounts of cash around with
is mostly level with that of Western European countries. you while visiting popular
Pharmacies in bigger cities are open all day and all three tourist destinations.
countries provide free emergency care.
Personal Safety
As you would do anywhere,
limited powers of arrest. In an using common sense is the best
emer gency, it is best to call the way to ensure your personal
state police. safety. Never accept drinks from
In Lithuania, the policija (police) strangers, no matter how affable
uniform consists of a dark green they might seem, and never
jacket and trousers, black boots accept invitations from people
and a cap. They drive white cars to go with them to another bar
with a green stripe along the side or nightclub. Be vigilant and
and “police” written in large avoid disreputable-looking
letters across the car’s bonnet. clubs, as a number of scams can
happen in such places. It is
advisable to carry a mobile
General Precautions
phone, with a record of all
Although the vast majority emergency numbers.
of visitors to the Baltic States do Avoid drinking excessively.
Busy western end of Basanavičiaus Street in not have any problems with There are a handful of thugs in
Palanga, Lithuania theft, it always helps to take each of the Baltic capitals who
some basic precautions to make a point of preying on
Police
safeguard valuables. Car theft inebriated foreigners as they
The Estonian politsei (police) remains a persistent problem in stumble out of bars in the early
usually wear a dark blue jacket all three Baltic States, so park in hours and head back to their
and trousers, black boots and a central and well-lit areas, and hotels, although they normally
baseball-like cap. They drive keep expensive objects hidden target solitary people. Also,
white cars with a blue stripe and from view. Using a guarded refrain from ostentatious
the word politsei written on the parking lot is safer still. behaviour, such as carrying
side doors and bonnet. In Pickpocketing is a minor luxury items.
Tallinn, the police have a
significant street presence,
especially in the Old Town,
during summer. The muni cipal
police force wear dark green
uniforms and have limited
powers. Therefore, the state
police should be contacted to
report a crime.
In Latvia, the policija (police)
wear dark blue uniforms Estonian police car
consisting of a suit-like jacket
with epaulets and a maroon tie,
although when on patrol they
mostly wear dark blue overalls
with a luminous yellow vest and
a broad cap. The Latvian police
drive white cars with a grey
stripe along the side. The Rīga
municipal police usually wear
all-black uniforms and patrol the
Old Town, although they have Latvian police car

PRA C TICAL INFORM A TION 369


Health Care
Standards of health care in
the Baltics are now at least
equal to those in other
European countries. EU citizens
will be treated free of charge
provided they bring their
Health Insurance card (EHIC)
with them, together with
another form of photographic
identification.
Minor medical complaints
can be dealt with at a pharmacy.
Most pharmacies stock a wide Interior of the Town Hall Pharmacy (see p64), in Tallinn’s Old Town
range of international drugs. For
serious health concerns visit the Rīga all have a choice of safe to drink, but is best avoided
nearest hospital. standard Western European as it does not taste very good.
Private clinics exist in all major clinics that are significantly Bottled mineral water is better.
cities and are an option if you cheaper than private clinics
require non-emergency in the West. Check to see if
treatment. Tallinn, Vilnius and your existing insur ance policy Pharmacies
covers all emergen cies. If not, Minor ailments and accidents
it is advisable to take out can often be treated by staff at a
comprehensive travel insurance. local pharmacy (apteek in
As there are virtually no Estonian, aptieka in Latvian and
significant health risks in the vaistinė in Lithuanian), which
Baltic States, precautionary will usually stock a large
immunization is not manda tory. selection of international drugs
However, there is the risk as well as many herbal
of acquiring tick-borne medicines that are produced
encephalitis in woodland areas, locally. Pharmacies generally
so if you are planning to spend open from 8am to 7 or 8pm on
any length of time in a forest weekdays and until 3 or 4pm on
in summer, you should get Saturdays. There are a few
Exterior of the Medical Diagnostic vaccinated against it. In Tallinn, 24-hour pharmacies in Tallinn,
Centre, Vilnius Rīga and Vilnius, tap water is Rīga and Vilnius.
DIRECTORY
Emergency in Tallinn Central Medical Help Fire
Estonia Hospital in Rīga Tel 01, 112.
Ravi 18.
Ambulance Tel 622 7070. 24-Hour Pharmacy Police
Tel 112. Audēju 20. Tel 02, 112.
∑ itk.ee Tel 6721 3340.
Fire Roadside Assistance
Tallinn Mustamäe
Tel 112. ARS Tel 1888.
Hospital Skolas 5. Tel 6720 1007.
Police J Sütiste 19. Medical Help
Tel 112. ∑ ars-med.lv
Tel 617 1300. in Vilnius
Roadside Assistance ∑ regionaalhaigla.ee Paul Stradiņš Clinical
Tel 1888. University Hospital 24-Hour Pharmacy
Emergency Pilsoņu 13. Gedimino pr 27.
Medical Help in Latvia Tel 6706 9600. Tel 261 0135.
in Tallinn ∑ stradini.lv Medical Diagnostic
Ambulance
24-Hour Pharmacy Tel 03, 112. Rīga Hospital and Treatment Centre
Tõnismägi 5. Number One V. Grybo 32A.
Tel 644 2282. Fire Bruņinieku 5. Tel 6727 Tel 233 3000 or 698
Tel 01, 112. 0491. ∑ 1slimnica.lv 00000.
Qvalitas Swedish- ∑ medcentras.lt
Estonian Medical Police Emergency
Centre Tel 02, 112. in Lithuania Vilnius University
Parnu mnt 102c. Emergency Hospital
Tel 605 1500. Roadside Assistance Ambulance Šiltnamių 29.
∑ qvalitas.ee Tel 1888. Tel 03, 112. Tel 216 9140.

370 SUR VIV AL GUIDE


Banking and Currency in DIRECTORY
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania Banks and Bureaux
de Change
The Baltic States have a thriving banking sector and all three
Latvijas Banka (Latvia)
countries have now joined the Eurozone, using the common
Jana dalina iela 15, Rīga.
currency, the euro. The best and most convenient way to
∑ bank.lv
obtain euros while travelling in the Baltic States is by with-
drawing them from debit accounts using the ATMs of major Lietuvos Bankas (Lithuania)
banks. Bureaux de change and banks offer money-changing Totorių 4, Vilnius.
∑ lb.lt
services, as do hotels but the exchange rates are unfavour-
able. Check rates of commission before changing currency, SEB (Estonia)
and shop around as exchange rates may vary considerably. Tornimäe 2, Tallinn.
∑ seb.ee
Swedbank
Banking Hours
∑ swedbank.ee
In Estonia and Latvia, banks are
usually open from Monday to Credit Cards
Friday between 9am and 6pm.
Major banks in big cities stay MasterCard
open on Saturdays, from 9am to ∑ mastercard.com
2pm in Estonia and from 10am Visa Electron
to 3pm in Latvia. In Lithuania, ∑ visa.com
opening hours vary, with bank
branches operating from 8am
to 5pm on weekdays. Banks in
big cities open on Saturdays largest networks. Banks
from 8am to 3pm or 10am to usually charge between 2 and
5pm, and, in rare cases, for a few 3 per cent commission for
hours on Sundays. changing money.
Distinctively signposted bureau de change Bureaux de change are
in Latvia extremely widespread in the
ATMs
three capitals and are open
There is an extremely wide for long hours, 7 days a week.
network of ATMs in the Baltic Banks and Bureaux They offer rates competitive to
States, spread across most de Change the banks, except in Estonia,
major town centres and the Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania where commission can be as
capital cities. Some petrol have a staggering number high as 25 per cent. Changing
sta tions have ATMs and most of banks. The biggest is the money in hotels in all three
small towns have at least two or Swedish-owned, pan-Baltic countries should also be
three. Most ATMs have English- Swedbank. It has branches in avoided, as they often offer
language options and accept all just about every town as well unfavour able exchange rates.
major international credit and as many branches and ATMs in
debit cards, such as MasterCard, the cities. Sampo Bank and SEB
Visa Electron, VisaPlus and are major banks in Estonia. In Credit Cards and
Cirrus/Maestro, and you can Latvia, Latvijas Banka, SEB, Traveller’s Cheques
withdraw cash with no Citadele and Nordea are well Traveller’s cheques are best
additional charges. However, estab lished. In Lithuania, avoided as very few banks now
most ATMs issue high- Vilniaus Bankas (SEB) and change them and they are
denomination banknotes. Lietuvos Bankas have the unheard of in shops. As there
is a wide network of ATMs
across all three countries,
either cash or a credit card
is a preferable option.
All the major credit cards are
widely accepted, except in the
smallest shops and cafés. Some
museums outside the capitals
also require cash payment. Bus
and train fares must usually
be paid in cash, both at the
One of the many 24-hour ATMs of Snoras, a bank in Lithuania stations and on board.

PRA C TICAL INFORM A TION 371


phased out later that year; one featuring designs of
The Euro
Latvia’s lat was replaced in fictional architectural structures.
The euro (€) is the common January 2014; and Lithuania’s The coins, however, have one
currency of the European litas in January 2015. side identical (the value side),
Union. It went into general EU members using the euro and one side with an image
circulation on 1 January 2002, as their sole official currency are unique to each country. Both
initially for 12 participating known as the Eurozone. Euro notes and coins are exchange-
countries. Estonia joined in notes are identical throughout able in each of the participating
January 2011, with the kroon the Eurozone countries, each Eurozone countries.
Banknotes
Euro banknotes have seven denom-
inations. The €5 note (grey in colour) is
the smallest, followed by the €10 note
(pink), €20 note (blue), €50 note
(orange), €100 note (green), €200 note
(yellow) and €500 note (purple).
All notes show the stars of the 5 euros
European Union.


10 euros





20 euros


50 euros


100 euros







200 euros

500 euros







2 euros 1 euro 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €1 and
€2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents and
1 cent. The 2- and 1-euro coins are both silver
and gold in colour. The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins
are gold. The 5- , 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent

372 SUR VIV AL GUIDE


Communications and Media a month and covers news,
busi ness, arts and entertainment
across Estonia, Latvia and
The three Baltic States have a highly developed communi- Lithuania. It includes weekly
cations network that is on a par with those of Western Europe. entertainment listings and infor-
Mobile phone usage is extre mely high and access to Wi-Fi is mation on concerts, exhibitions
widespread. It’s advisable to travel with a mobile phone as and films. In Your Pocket (around
public telephones no longer exist in Latvia or Estonia, and €1) provides comprehensive
and well-researched write-ups
there are very few public phones left in Lithuania. The flat
on everything from restaurants
terrain in the Baltic countries has always ensured good mobile and bars to nightclubs and
phone coverage, although you may discover the occasional shopping, as well as up-to-date
blind spot in the remoter areas. For long-distance calls, information on museum
international calling cards are readily available. The national opening times. Both
publications are widely
postal services are generally dependable and major available at kiosks and some
international couriers operate in all three countries.
retail outlets. Free listings
magazines come and go in all
Mobile Phones
widespread as they used to be. three capitals and are available
GSM mobile phone networks In smaller towns, those that still at hotel reception desks.
have complete coverage in the exist are signposted with an International editions of
Baltic States. The main mobile “@” sign. Some hotels have British and American news-
networks have partnerships business centres or PCs for papers and magazines, such as
with Western European service public use, but most presume The New York Times, International
providers such as Orange and that guests arrive with their Herald Tribune and The
Vodafone, so travelling with own devices. Economist, can be found in
your own phone is generally some news outlets in central
straightforward. Another Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius.
option is to buy a prepaid SIM Postal Services
card from a local provider and Mail services in the Baltic
insert it into your own handset States are efficient and very Radio and Televsion
for relatively cheap calls and depend able. Post offices BBC Radio is easily found in
SMS rates. provide a range of services at all three Baltic countries.
However, roaming rules competitive postal rates. Mail Most other international radio
introduced in the European can be sent poste restante to stations can be easily accessed
Union mean that the cost of any post office in the Baltic via the web. Hotels of all kinds
making and receiving calls region, but a passport is continue to provide televisions
when abroad in the EU is now usually needed to collect it. in all rooms with access to
substantially cheaper than it Post offices sell cheaper the major international
used to be. The EU has imposed postcards than many shops. television stations, such as
maximum tariffs on all member the BBC, CNN and Euronews,
states for calls, texts and as well as sports and music
downloading. For travellers from Newspapers and channels. A few five-star hotels
outside the EU, high roaming Magazines are starting to introduce smart
charges will likely still apply. The Baltic Times is the only TVs that integrate entertain-
Contact your service provider to pan-Baltic, English-language ment and wirelessly stream
determine the rates. newspaper. It comes out once data from smartphones.
As of 2014, European operators
are not allowed to exceed the
following rates for mobile use:
€0.19 per minute for out going
voice calls; €0.05 per minute for
incoming voice calls; €0.06 per
SMS messsage for outgoing
texts; and €0.20 per megabyte
for online data downloads.
The Internet
Nearly all hotels have Internet
connections and many cafés
and restaurants have Wi-Fi
access, most of which is free.
Internet cafés are not as Customers at a newspaper kiosk in Ventspils, Latvia

PRA C TICAL INFORM A TION 373


Communications in Estonia DIRECTORY
Estonia’s communications infrastructure is very efficient. Useful Numbers
All phone lines are digital, ensuring high-quality con nections Collect Calls
and easy-to-make international calls. Internet and mobile Tel 16116.
phone usage is particularly high. A wide range of services Directory Enquiries
can be paid for through mobile phones, including parking Tel 1182.
charges. Wi-Fi coverage in Estonia is almost total, and mostly Operator
free, including on the main islands and even on some Tel 165.
beaches. The post offices offer a range of express delivery
options, including a special pan-Baltic option. Mobile Phones
Elisa
The Internet ∑ elisa.ee
Virtually everywhere you go in Tele2
Tallinn and the rest of Estonia, ∑ tele2.com
Wi-Fi internet access is Telia
available in public places. ∑ telia.ee
Almost every café, restaurant,
hotel and public building offers Postal Services
Wi-Fi openly and free of charge,
making Internet cafés all but Cargobus
redundant, though one or two ∑ cargobus.ee
are still around. DHL
∑ dhl.ee
Postal Services DPD
∑ dpd.ee
The state-owned Estonian
postkontor (post office), called Omniva
Omniva, is an efficiently run ∑ omniva.ee
enterprise. It has 500 outlets Tallinn Central Post Office
around the country opening Narva mnt 1. Tel 661 6616.
Accessing the free Wi-Fi available just from 9am to 6 or 7pm on ∑ post.ee
about everywhere across Estonia week days, and between
9am and 3pm on Saturdays.
Tallinn Central Post Office in Estonia, while Cargobus
Making a Phone Call
is open from 8am to 8pm is a reliable Estonian parcel
Estonia has an extremely simple on weekdays, and from delivery company. The
and efficient digital telephone 10am to 4pm on Saturdays cheapest way of sending a
network. In 2004, the country and Sundays. parcel home is probably with
did away with all city codes, as The cost of sending a letter the state post office company
a result of which all landline of up to 50 g (about four Omniva. They can send
numbers are now seven digits. pages) in Europe is €1.20. To parcels to a specific address,
Calls to landlines are usually less send it registered costs around from post office to post office,
expensive than those to mobile €3. It is possible to package, or via courier.
phones. The public phone label and pay for sending
system has been decommis- letters and parcels via Dialling Codes
sioned, and there are now no Omniva’s online e-service.
public telephones to be found Major international couriers • All mobile numbers begin
anywhere in the country. such as DHL and DPD operate with 5 or 8; almost all other
lines start with other numbers.
• Toll-free numbers start with 80;
Mobile Phones premium rate numbers start
with 70.
Estonian mobile numbers start • To make an international call
with 5 or 8 and usually have from Estonia, first press “+”,
seven or eight digits. The main then the destination’s country
mobile phone operators are code and number.
Telia, Elisa and the pan-Baltic • To call Estonia from abroad dial
Tele2. EMT Simpel and Tele2 the international access code
both offer pre-paid SIM cards, (00 from the UK, 011 from the
which are useful for visitors US and Canada), followed by
planning to stay in Estonia for Estonian postbox outside the Central Post 372, Estonia’s country code.
a significant length of time. Office, Tallinn

374 SUR VIV AL GUIDE


Communications in Latvia DIRECTORY
The telephone and mail networks in Latvia are both efficient Useful Numbers
and reliable, although some post office branches need
Directory Enquiries
modernization. Nevertheless, post offices are present in most
Tel 1188.
towns and villages of significant size. With the rise of mobile
phone use, under-used public phones have been removed Mobile Phones
across the country. Internet access is excellent in Rīga and
other major cities, with Wi-Fi hotspots in many cafés and Bite
hotels, and continues to improve throughout Latvia. ∑ bite.lv
LMT
∑ lmt.lv
Tele2
∑ tele2.lv
Postal Services
DHL
∑ dhl.lv
DPD
∑ dpd.lv
A Plus Punkts kiosk selling SIM-card packages and top-up credit, Rīga
Latvijas Pasts
Making a Phone Call Brīvības bulvāris 32, Rīga.
second phone, which can be
All valid telephone numbers in found at shops and stalls in Tel 6750 2815.
Latvia have eight digits, except shopping malls, and signing up ∑ pasts.lv
those for contacting some to a pay-as-you-go plan.
special public services. All
mobile numbers start with 2; open longer, from 7am to 9pm,
landlines start with 6, and The Internet on weekdays, from 9am to 8pm
occasionally 5. Speedy, free-of-charge Wi-Fi is on Saturdays and from10am to
Now that public telephones widely available at restaurants, 8pm on Sundays.
have been withdrawn, the hotels and cafés in Rīga and Major international couriers
easiest way to make much of the rest of Latvia. The such as DHL and DPD
international calls is simply with rapid growth of its availability operate in Latvia, but the
your own mobile phone after means that Internet cafés have cheapest way of sending a
registering with one of the three become redundant and are parcel home is probably with
mobile phone operators active virtually non-existent. One can Latvijas Pasts. They can send
in the country, LMT, Tele2 or easily be guided by a local to parcels to a specific address,
Bite. EU regulations ensure the nearest Wi-Fi connection. from post office to post office,
that roaming charges are not or via courier.
extortionate for those using
a European phone. If roaming Postal Services
charges are a concern, you Branches of Latvia’s state- Dialling Codes
could purchase a prepaid owned post office, Latvijas • Mobile numbers start with
calling card for international Pasts, are found all over the 2; landline numbers tend to
start with 6.
calls, which allows connection country. In Rīga the biggest • Toll-free numbers begin
through a toll-free number and is located at Brivibas iela 32 with 80; premium-rate
gives automated instruc tions in (entrance on Merkela iela), but numbers start with 8 or 9.
numerous languages. there are smaller post offices in • To make an international call
the city centre. Sending a letter from Latvia, first press “+”,
of up to 50 g within Europe then the destination’s
Mobile Phones
costs €0.90; to send it country code and number.
Latvia’s three mobile phone registered costs €1.70. • To call Latvia from abroad
operators LMT, Tele2 and The busy Brivibas post office dial the international access
Bite provide prepaid SIM cards branch is open from 7:30am to code (00 from the UK, 011
(your own phone will need to 7pm on weekdays and from from US and Canada),
be unlocked). Visitors staying in 9am to 3pm on Saturdays, but followed by 371, Latvia’s
Latvia for longer periods have is closed on Sundays. A branch country code.
the option of buying a cheap at the central train station is

PRA C TICAL INFORM A TION 375


Communications in Lithuania DIRECTORY
The widespread network of telephone and mail services in Useful Numbers
Lithuania is very efficient. The huge popu larity of mobile Directory Enquiries
phones has ensured that the few public phones that exist are Tel 118.
rarely used. Post offices can be found in all towns and larger Mobile Phones
villages. Internet usage is virtually universal and finding an
access point is seldom a problem. Bitė
∑ bite.lt
Omnitel
Mobile Phones
∑ omnitel.lt
There are three mobile phone Tele2
operators in Lithuania, namely ∑ tele2.lt
Omnitel, Tele2 and Bitė. They
provide prepaid SIM cards Postal Services
which might be helpful to those
from outside the EU who are DHL
Phone card, available with the service concerned about roaming ∑ dhl.lv
provider, Teo LT charges. Keep in mind that DPD
your phone would need to be ∑ dpd.lv
Making a Phone Call
unlocked. Visitors staying for
Public telephones are steadily longer periods have the Lietuvos Paštas
disappearing from Lithuania, option of buying a cheap Gedimino 7, Vilnius. Tel 261 6759.
∑ post.lt
but a few can still be found. All phone on a pay-as-you-go
valid telephone numbers in basis to take advantage of
Lithuania have eight digits low local rates. Phones can be
(including the area code), with purchased in shops and stalls on Saturdays and from 10am
the exception of special public in indoor shopping centres. to 8pm on Sundays.
services such as four-digit Sending a letter of up to 20 g
numbers for taxi companies. in Europe costs €0.75; to send it
All mobile numbers currently The Internet by registered mail costs €2.84.
start with 6. Fast, free-of-charge Wi-Fi can Major international
Area codes are one to three be found at restaurants, hotels couriers such as DHL and
digits and need to be left off and cafés in Vilnius and much DPD operate in Lithuania, but
when dialling locally from a land of the rest of Lithuania, and the cheapest way of sending
line. In Vilnius for example the old-fashioned internet cafés a parcel home is probably with
area code is 5. When in Vilnius are becoming difficult to find. Lietuvos Paštas, either to a
you dial seven digits, leaving If you find that Wi-Fi is not specific address, from post
off the 5. When dialling from immediately available wherever office to post office, or
another area code, dial 8 first, you happen to be, a local will shipped via courier.
then the full eight-digit number undoubtedly be able to tell you
including the area code. When where you might find it.
calling any number from a Dialling Codes
mobile phone, dial the • Mobile numbers start
complete eight-digit number, Postal Services with 6.
including the area code. Branches of Lietuvos Paštas, • Lithuania’s city codes
Now that public telephones Lithuania’s state-owned post include 5 for Vilnius, 37 for
have been withdrawn, the office company, are found all Kaunas, 46 for Klaipėda, 313
easiest way to make interna- over the country. In large for Druskininkai, 460 for
tional calls is simply with your towns and cities they are Palanga and 469 for Nida.
own mobile phone after increasingly located in indoor • Toll-free numbers start with
8; premium-rate numbers
register ing with one of the three shopping centres where start with 9.
mobile phone operators active opening hours are long and • To make an international call
in the country, Omnitel, Tele2 include Sundays. In Vilnius, the from Lithuania, first press “+”,
and Bitė. EU regulations ensure main post office is on the main then the destination’s
that roaming charges are not street, at Gedimino 7, and is country code and number.
extor tionate. If roaming charges open from 8:30am to 7pm • To call Lithuania from
are a concern, you could pur- on weekdays and from 9am abroad dial the international
chase a prepaid calling card for to 2pm on Saturdays, but is access code (00 from the
inter national calls, which allows closed on Sundays. A branch at UK, 011 from US and
connection through a toll-free the central train station is open Canada), followed by 370,
number and gives automated longer: from 7am to 9pm on Lithuania’s country code.
instruc tions in many languages. weekdays, from 9am to 8pm

376 SUR VIV AL GUIDE

TRAVELLING TO ESTONIA

It is easy to reach Estonia by air, as several station are only a short taxi or bus ride away.
major international carriers from many Tallinn has good coach connections with the
European cities provide links to Tallinn, the rest of Europe, although travelling by coach
capital of Estonia. The country is also well can be slow. Reaching Estonia from Western
served by ferries, with regular services to Europe by train is almost impossible, as the
Tallinn and the island of Saaremaa. In Tallinn, only international service is from Russia.
the ferry port and main railway station are A pan-Baltic train, Rail Baltica, is in the works,
conveniently located close to the Old Town but is a complex and expensive undertaking,
and city centre, while the airport and coach with completion set for 2024.

Other Estonian Airports
Estonia’s other airports are
situated in Pärnu, Kuressaare
and Kärdla. These are serviced
by small regional airlines with
connections to Tallinn. There
are special summer flight
services from Sweden to
Saaremaa Island and from
Finland to Tartu’s recently
upgraded airport.
Arriving by Sea
Estonia is very well served
by ferry, with Tallinn’s
Passenger Port (reisisadam)
Gleaming interior of Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport handling about 7 million
passengers a year. The main
Arriving by Air
London Stansted and line, Tallink, has routes to
The sleek-looking Lennart Meri Manchester; easyjet flies Helsinki (Finland), Rostock
Tallinn Airport is the only from London Gatwick. (Germany) and Stockholm
Estonian airport with regular (Sweden), while other carriers,
scheduled flights. In recent such as Viking Line and Eckerö
years, the airport has become From Tallinn Airport to Line, are accessible from
a regional hub with approxi- the City Centre Helsinki and Stockholm. Linda
mately 12 airlines using the Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport Line runs a hydrofoil service
airport, including major carriers is about 3 km (2 miles) from to Helsinki.
such as Finnair and Lufthansa. the city centre. Taxis wait Travellers from Helsinki are
The Latvian airline airBaltic outside and the ride to the spoiled for choice, with a
makes regular flights to Tallinn city centre costs around €10. range of catamarans and
with a quick stop in Rīga. Bus number 2 takes up to ferries making the crossing.
Nordica is the rightful 15 minutes to reach the centre The Passenger Port is within
successor to the bankrupt and costs around €1.50. It walking distance of Tallin’s Old
national airline, Estonian Air. leaves every 20 minutes from Town and a taxi ride should
Based in Tallinn, it offers Monday to Saturday, and cost between €3 and €5,
a good standard of service in every 30 minutes although it is close enough
both business and tourist class. on Sunday. to walk. The local bus no. 2
The airline has direct links with connects the port with the city
several major European destina- centre, bus station and airport.
tions as well as some Estonian Tallinn is also inclu ded
cities and islands. Visitors from in a choice
out side Europe need to catch a of Baltic Sea
connecting flight from cities such cruises. Pärnu
as London, Helsinki, Copenhagen and Saaremaa
or Stockholm. Island are also
A couple of low-cost carriers included in
provide daily flights to Tallinn some cruise
from the UK: Ryanair flies from Taxi stand near Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport ship itineraries.

TRA VEL INFORM A TION 377


DIRECTORY
Airlines
airBaltic
∑ airbaltic.com
easyJet
∑ easyjet.com
Finnair
∑ finnair.com
Lufthansa
∑ lufthansa.com
Nordica
∑ nordica.ee
Ryanair
Tallink ferry on a voyage across the Baltic Sea ∑ ryanair.com
Arriving by Coach Arriving by Train Airports
International coach routes Tallinn’s main railway station, Kärdla Airport
to Estonia are provided by Balti Jaam, is a short walk away ∑ kardla-airport.ee
Lux Express and Ecolines, from the Old Town. There is a
which operate connections nightly train to Moscow. Tickets Kuressaare Airport
between Tallinn and Berlin, should be pre-booked, since ∑ kuressaare-airport.ee
Munich, Kaliningrad, Warsaw Russian visa specifications insist Lennart Meri Tallinn
and St Petersburg, among on dates of entry and exit. Airport
others. International coaches In 2010, the Tartu–Volga line Lennujaama 1.
arrive at Tallinn Bus Station reopened, making it possible to Tel 605 8888.
(bussijaam), which is a short travel from Tallinn to Rīga. There ∑ tallinn-airport.ee
taxi ride from the city centre. are plans to build the Rail Baltica Pärnu Airport
Alternatively, catch the route to Warsaw. ∑ parnu-airport.ee
num bers 2 or 4 trams, or
numbers 17, 17a or 23 buses Tartu Airport
from the main bus station Arriving by Car ∑ tartu-airport.ee
into the city centre. Passengers Since 2007, when the Baltic Ferry Companies
travelling to Tallinn by bus States agreed to the Schengen
from Rīga or Vilnius can get Agreement (under which Tallink
off at the more central Viru sys tematic border controls were ∑ tallink.ee
väljak bus stop. There are also abolished), there are no bor der Viking Line
limited inter national coach restrictions for Schengen visa ∑ vikingline.fi
connections with Pärnu, Narva holders. Crossing the border
and Tartu. The coach network from Latvia is easy, especially for Ferry Port
is efficiently run and cheap. EU passport holders. The border
Services are clearly posted crossing with Russia is slower Passenger Port
in coach and bus stations. and border guards are likely to Sadama 25. Tel 631 8550.
scrutinize your documents. To ∑ portoftallinn.com
bring your own car into Estonia, Coach Companies
the Vehicle Registration docu-
ment, an international driving Ecolines
permit and a valid Green Card ∑ ecolines.ee
insu rance policy are mandatory. Lux Express
Estonia, reputed to be one ∑ luxexpress.eu
of the world’s most digitally
well-connected country for Coach Station
various services, also became the
pioneer in Europe to fully legalize Tallinn Bus Station
ride-sharing compa nies such Lastekodu 46. Tel 680 0900.
as Uber. With this initiative, ∑ bussireisid.ee
Estonia has embra ced the model Ridesharing
of sharing eco nomy and also
promoted an efficient public Uber
transport scheme. A ride with ∑ uber.com/cities/tallinn
Lux Express coach, connecting Tallinn to Uber from Tallinn’s airport to the
Germany, Poland and Russia Old Town could cost up to €6.

378 SUR VIV AL GUIDE


Getting Around Estonia endless stops in small towns and
villages. Route operators include
The best way of getting around Estonia is by car, as all the main SEBE and Taisto. The Tartu–
sights are, at most, a few hours’ drive away from each other. The Tallinn route is the busiest and
country’s rail network is cheap but with a limited reach and most convenient, with coaches
often frustratingly slow. A far better public transport option is departing every hour until late at
night. Tickets can be bought
the country’s well-developed bus system, which links all the from the bus station or the driver
major towns and cities as well as more remote areas. However, on boarding. On busier routes, it
rural bus services are sparse, and the buses tend to crawl along is best to buy tickets in advance.
at no more than about 30 kmph (19 mph). Alternatively, there Although ticket prices vary, they
is a good range of ferries serving the islands but many of these are generally very reasonable,
but slightly higher than those for
do not run in winter, when the sea freezes over. Some regular rail travel. The fares of buses
domestic flights connect Estonia’s mainland cities, and there bound for the islands are usually
are regular air connections to several islands. higher as they always include
the price of the ferry crossing.
To check bus schedules visit
Bussireisid’s website.
Luggage is usually carried
onto the bus and passengers
may have to pay a small
additional fee to stow any large
items in the compart ment
under neath the bus.
Travelling by Ferry
The Estonian islands are well
served by a number of car and
passenger ferry connec tions.
There are also regular ser vices
Local train waiting at Tallinn railway station between Rohuküla harbour
(near Haapsalu), Heltermaa
Travelling by Train
or updated and services are (on Hiiumaa Island) and Vormsi.
Estonia’s rail network is the usually posted on large display Virtsu har bour (north of Pärnu)
least efficient way to see the boards at the stations. has hourly connections with
country. Services have been Muhu Island, which is linked with
so drastically reduced that nearby Saaremaa Island by road.
the choice of destinations is Travelling by Bus Saaremaa itself is con nected
limited. There are rail routes The bus network in Estonia is with Hiiumaa from Triigi harbour
between Tallinn and Narva, efficiently run and is good value in the north east. Saaremaa has a
Tartu, Pärnu and Viljandi, and for money. Inter-city buses run special summertime ferry service
an electric train runs between regularly and are generally to Ventspils in Latvia. Check
Tallinn and Paldiski 10 times a comfortable. Some companies Saaremaa Shipping Company
day. It is usually advisable to run express routes, which avoid Limited’s official website for
catch a kiirrong (fast train),
although these are still rela-
tively slow compared to those
in Western Europe. However,
there are now express trains,
with first-class carriages,
between Tallinn and Tartu.
Edelaraudtee runs inter-city
passenger services and
Elron, a government-owned
train operator, runs local
electric trains.
It is best to buy pilet (tickets)
on board, although some can
be bought online or at the
ticket offices in Tallinn. There
are no passes for rail travel.
Time tables are rarely printed Bussireisid’s air-conditioned inter-city express bus en route from Tartu

TRA VEL INFORM A TION 379


DIRECTORY
Travelling by Train
Edelaraudtee
∑ edel.ee
Elron
∑ elron.ee
Travelling by Bus
Bussireisid
∑ bussireisid.ee
SEBE
∑ sebe.ee
Taisto
∑ taisto.ee
Ferry from Virtsu on its way to Saaremaa Island
Travelling by Ferry
Travelling by Car
route details. Veeteed runs a Saaremaa Shipping
ferry service between Pärnu and Driving is by far the best way to Company Limited
the islands of Kihnu and Vormsi, get around Estonia. Conditions ∑ tuulelaevad.ee
although the service is less are generally good on main Veeteed
regular. In summer, ferries tend roads and distances are relatively ∑ veeteed.com
to quickly fill up and passen gers short. However, country roads are
can be left waiting in long severely potholed and dirt roads Travelling by Air
queues if they don’t reserve are also common in many rural
their tickets well in advance. parts of the country. Avies
Passengers travelling by car There are no motorways and ∑ avies.ee
should arrive at the har bour overtaking is the norm. It is
about 20 minutes before the mandatory by law to drive with Car Hire
scheduled departure time. the headlights on at all times Avis
In winter, ferry services are of the day. Wearing a seatbelt is ∑ avis.com
often cancelled when the compulsory for drivers as well as
sea freezes over, although passengers. The speed limit is Budget
officially designated ice roads 50 kmph (31 mph) in built-up ∑ budget.com
are established if the ice is areas and 90 kmph (56 mph) Easy Car Rent
thick enough. on the main roads. In Estonia, ∑ easycarrent.eu
drinking alcohol and driving is Europcar
illegal. By law, winter tyres must ∑ europcar.com
Travelling by Air
be fitted between December
Estonian Air, the country’s and March. Hertz
national carrier (see p376), Petrol stations are quite rare in ∑ hertz.com
operates domestic flights that remote places so it is advis able National
connect the major cities. Avies to fill up on petrol when leaving ∑ nationalcar.com
also runs a few daily flights a city or town.
between Tallinn, Kuressaare and
Kärdla. It is best to book well in
advance because their planes Car Hire
are very small and can only seat There are numerous car rental
up to seven passen gers. There firms, including Avis, Budget,
are also some flights from Pärnu Europcar, Hertz and National.
Airport to Kuressaare and Kihnu A local company, Easy Car Rent,
which are reasonably priced, also offers good deals. All
and a good option in winter require a major credit card
when the sea is frozen. Tartu and a valid international driver’s
Airport has connections to Rīga licence. Rental rates are
and Stockholm. Kärdla acts comparable to those in Western
mainly as a stopover point Europe. Outside Tallinn, there
for chartered flights in Europe. are few rental options except in
The daily domestic service to major towns. However, some of
Tallinn is the only regular the Tallinn-based chains can
service coming from the airport organize car hire in other parts Autorent Terminal of Avis, a global car
at Kärdla. of the country. rental chain

380 SUR VIV AL GUIDE


Getting Around Tallinn cost between €1 and €2 depend-
ing on how far the destination is.
Most of the main sights in Tallinn are within comfortable Tickets can only be purchased
walking distance of each other. The Old Town is so compact from the drivers on boarding.
that it can easily be covered on foot. Public transport in Tallinn
is cheap and efficient. It is made up of an integrated network Driving
of trolleybuses, buses and trams serving sites away from the Driving around Tallinn may be
city centre. Cycling is another good way of getting around the
a little disorienting for visitors.
city. In general, Tallinn’s transport options are very good, and There are several confusing
there is no need for a car unless you plan to take a day trip or one-way systems and traffic
explore the outer parts of the city. jams are common during rush
hour. Also, tram tracks are often
in the middle of the road.
Buses, Trolleybuses premium, it is best to buy Drivers have to stop and wait for
and Trams
tickets, either individual or a tram when it pulls in at a
Tallinn’s public transport system as booklets, at kiosks. Tallinn station so that passengers can
operates daily between 6am and Card (see p366) holders are safely alight. Driving conditions
midnight. Buses are the best way entitled to unlimited travel on are espe cially difficult at night
to reach the air port and other all public transport. because of the dangerous habit
outlying areas. The terminal for of overtaking on narrow roads
many routes is in Viru Keskus, the and speeding. The speed
central shopping mall. The nine Minibuses limit in Tallinn is 50 kmph
trolleybus lines mainly connect Minibuses, or route-taxis as they (31 mph), except on some
to residential areas near are often called, are a larger roads where the limit
the centre. The main faster option for travel- is 70 kmph (43 mph).
stops are on Vabaduse lers. They con nect the
väljak and Balti Jaam. city centre to outlying
Trams follow the main residential areas. These Parking
arte ries in and out of the white vans, operated by There are plenty of parking
city centre. The four tram many small private com- options in Tallinn, though it can
lines running across the panies, follow set routes, be hard to find a good spot in
city con verge at the picking up and dropping the heart of the city during
Hobujaama stop on Bus sign, off passen gers at any weekdays. In the city centre,
Narva maanti (road). Tallinn spot they request along paid parking is in force between
The same tickets can the route. Most mini- 7am and 7pm on weekdays and
be used on all three systems buses leave from a stop at 8am and 3pm on Saturdays,
and schedules in English can be Estonia puiestee (boulevard) just although the first 15 minutes
found at the Tallinn Bus oppo site the Estonian Drama are free. Tickets can be bought
Company’s website. As drivers Theatre. Destinations are usually from street-side machines or
only sell single tickets at a displayed in the window. Tickets kiosks or, in some areas, by























Tallinn tram, a convenient mode of transport for short hops around the city

TRA VEL INFORM A TION 381


DIRECTORY
Buses, Trolley Buses
and Trams
Tallinn Bus Company
∑ soiduplaan.tallinn.ee
Taxis
Reval Takso
Tel 601 4600.
A taxi waiting in a cobblestoned street in the Old Town, Tallinn
∑ reval-takso.ee
using a mobile phone, following journey and ensure that the Tallink Takso
instructions posted on signs. meter is running. Tel 640 8921.
Rates range from around €1 per ∑ tallinktakso.ee
15 minutes to €4.60 per hour.
The Old Town has a seven-day, Cycling Tulika Takso
24-hour paid parking in effect, Getting around Tallinn by Tel 612 0001.
which starts at €0.75 per bicycle is a good option, ∑ tulika.ee
15 min utes. A relatively although it is not so practical in
convenient option might be to the cobbled streets of the Old Cycling
leave your car at one of seve ral Town. There are plenty of
centrally located guarded bicycle rental firms in the city, CityBike
parking lots. These range in such as CityBike, that offer a Tel 5111 819.
price from about €0.75 to wide range of organized tours ∑ citybike.ee
€1.90 per hour. In the summer accompanied by a guide. It is
months, paid parking is also in also possible to rent a bicycle Velotaxi
effect in the Pirita istrict. and take off by your self. As there
are hardly any bicycle lanes in Green Gears
Tallinn, special care should be Tel 5385 5353.
Taxis ∑ greengears.ee
taken when cycling along
There is an abundance of taxis congested streets.
in Tallinn, although it is best to
take one from a taxi stand or from most hotels and tourist
to book one in advance from Walking information centres.
reputable companies such as Walking is the ideal way to
Tulika Takso, Tallink Takso or experience the busy streets
Reval Takso. Taxi stands can be of Tallinn’s Old Town and Velotaxi
found near large hotels, major the city centre. In general, Velotaxis, or bicycle-taxis, are a
inter sec tions and also next to Tallinn is a pedestrian-friendly novel way of seeing the city.
the Estonian Drama Theatre. environ ment, although a good They ope rate from March to
Hailing a taxi on the street is road map is useful to avoid October and cost around €2.25
risky, as there are many getting lost in its laby rinthine for an adult and €0.95 for a
dishonest taxi drivers who streets. A huge number of child, and can be ordered on
overcharge foreign visitors. walking tours are available the Green Gears website.
However, legislation has been
introduced to help improve the
situation. All taxi drivers are
obliged to display their prices
in English, on the vehicle’s rear
right-hand window, and to
provide a receipt on request. If
the driver fails to give a receipt,
the passenger is legally enti tled
not to pay the fare.
Starting fares normally range
from €2.25 to €4.50, with a rate
of about €0.50 per kilometre,
although prices can vary
considerably from ope rator to
operator. It is advis able to ask
the driver for an approximate
price before starting your The fascinatingly novel velotaxi, available for hire in Tallinn

382 SUR VIV AL GUIDE

TRAVELLING TO LATVIA

Most visitors arrive in Latvia by air, at Rīga international passenger flights. For those who
International Airport. Since independence wish to avoid air travel and who have more
there has been a rapid growth in the num ber time, there are sea routes from Germany and
of European cities directly linked to Rīga, Scandinavia, as well as comfortable trains and
mainly because of the arrival of low-cost coaches from other parts of the Continent.
carriers that raised the capital’s profile as a Arriving by car is also perfectly feasible,
destination for weekend breaks. In contrast, the provided the driver has the correct documents
country’s regional airports are little used for and is willing to tackle a variable road network.

Arriving by Air
The majority of visitors to Latvia
arrive at Rīga International
Airport, the largest airport in
the Baltic region by passenger
numbers. The airport is
connected to most Western
European cities as well as to
Prague, Moscow, Kiev, Tallinn,
Vilnius and Warsaw. Services
at the airport include a
currency exchange and ATMs,
which remain open until the
last flight arrives. Rīga International Airport
The country’s national
carrier, airBaltic, was estab- From Rīga Airport Other Latvian Airports
lished in 1995 and offers some to the City Centre The other international
very affordable flights. Rīga is Rīga Airport is located about airports are in Ventspils
also served by other major 8 km (5 miles) from the city and Liepāja. Neither is
airlines including LOT, SAS, centre. The cheapest way to much used by sche duled
Lufthansa and Finnair. Several reach the city is by taking a passenger services.
low-cost carriers, such as Wizz bus from outside the airport
Air and Ryanair, also fly to Rīga terminal. Bus 22 runs approxi-
from various European cities. mately every 10 to 20 minutes, Arriving by Sea
There are very few direct from 5:45am to midnight, and Passenger ferries take longer
flights to Latvia from the USA, takes 30 minutes to reach than air travel, though cross ing
New Zealand, Canada or Abrenes iela (street); stops the Baltic Sea has its own
Australia. Visitors often transfer along the way include 11 appeal. Ferries operated by
at another European airport Novembra krastmala and Tallink connect Rīga to
such as Copenhagen or the Central Railway Station. Stockholm (Sweden). Stena
Helsinki. It may be more airBaltic operates the Airport Line connects Liepāja
economical to arrange a long- Express every 30 minutes, to Lübeck (Germany), and
haul flight to a transport hub from 5:30am to 12:30pm; it Ventspils to Nynashamn
such as London, along with a costs €5. Taxis reach the city (Sweden) and Lübeck. Rīga’s
separate onward flight. centre in 15 minutes. main Ferry Terminal can be
reached by trams 5, 7 or 9
from the bus station or
outside the National Opera.
There are mari nas at Rīga,
Jūrmala, Liepāja, Pāvilosta,
Salacgrīva and Ventspils for
those with their own boats.
The Latvian Coast website
offers information.
Arriving by Coach
This is the best way to travel
between the three Baltic
Express bus waiting outside Rīga International Airport capitals. International carriers,

TRA VEL INFORM A TION 383


such as Ecolines, Lux Express are more luxurious two-bunk DIRECTORY
and Nordeka, run services compartments on the trains
between Rīga and several other from Moscow. Airports
European and Russian cities.
Rīga’s main bus termi nal, Liepāja Airport
Autoosta (see p385), is five Arriving by Car ∑ liepaja-airport.lv
minutes south of the Old Town. Since the Schengen Agreement Rīga International Airport
Travelling by coach costs less (see p377), there are no border 10/1 Mārupes civil parish.
than travelling by air, although controls between Estonia, Latvia
the difference is negligible, and Lithuania. Entering from Tel 1187.
except during peak season. Russia or Belarus may take ∑ riga-airport.com
International coaches are several hours. Ventspils Airport
equipped with air conditioning It is essential to bring along
and reclining seats, and some, the vehicle’s registration ∑ airport.ventspils.lv
such as those in Lux Express’s document, a valid third-party Airlines
lounge class, have well-spaced insurance policy and either a
single seats, extra legroom and European driving licence or an airBaltic
in-seat touch-screen consoles. International Driving Permit. ∑ airbaltic.com
Vehicles must be in roadworthy
condition and it is compulsory Finnair
to carry a first-aid kit, fire ∑ finnair.com
extinguisher and hazard-
warning triangle in your vehicle LOT
at all times. From December to ∑ lot.com
March, winter tyres must be
used, and bet ween September Lufthansa
and April, drivers should fit ∑ lufthansa.com
spiked tyres. Ryanair
∑ ryanair.com
Arriving by Bicycle
Passengers queuing up outside the ticket SAS
office at a bus station Since Latvia acceded to the ∑ flysas.com
Schengen Agreement, cycling
Arriving by Train Wizz Air
into Latvia from Estonia or
The main railway station in Rīga, Lithuania has been simple. ∑ wizzair.com
Central Railway Station (see p385), The flat landscape makes it
is located south of the Old Town. an attractive option during Ferry Companies
Although there are no trains from summer. Carry appropriate
Vilnius to Rīga, it is possible to spares and a waterproof jacket. Stena Line
ride the rails between Talinn and There are two EuroVelo cycle ∑ stenaline.com
Rīga, although passen gers need routes passing through Latvia, Tallink
to change trains at the border. though they are not always well
There are rail routes head ing east marked, and much of the riding ∑ tallinksilja.com
towards Moscow, Vitebsk, Odessa is on country roads. EV10
and St Petersburg. The most follows the Baltic coastline, Ferry Port
comfort able way to travel on while EV11 crosses the Estonian Ferry Terminal
most routes is a kupeja (four-bunk border at Valka and traverses
compartment). However, there Eastern Latvia to Daugavpils. Eksporta iela 3A, Rīga.
Tel 6732 6200. ∑ rigapt.lv
Ventspils Port
Tel 636 22586.
∑ portofventspils.lv
Coach Companies
Ecolines
∑ ecolines.ee
Lux Express
∑ luxexpress.eu
Nordeka
∑ nordeka.lv
Passenger train passing through the lush pine forests of the Latvian countryside

384 SUR VIV AL GUIDE


Getting Around Latvia If the journey starts at a major
station, it is best to buy a ticket
The public transport network in Latvia is extensive and before boarding. Otherwise
affordable. Travelling by coach tends to be quicker than by train, tickets can be purchased from
although the buses are often old and can be uncomfor table. the driver. If your luggage is
Major urban areas and places of interest to visitors usually very large, you may have to pay
to stow it in the luggage
benefit from frequent coach services. However, in the country- compartment, but otherwise it
side, there may be only one bus or train per day in each is normal to take it on board.
direction. This means that visitors who wish to get off the beaten
path will find it difficult to rely on public transport. Car hire is a Understanding
popular choice, despite the variable state of the roads in the Timetables
country. The combination of a flat landscape and relatively short Outside of Rīga, it can be
distances makes cycling pleasant, especially in good weather. difficult to find station staff
who speak English. Time tables
are written on boards at the
railway station and are also
available by telephone and on
the Internet. Details of several
common routes are also
available in the publi cation
Rīga in Your Pocket (see p387).
For further enquiries visit the
Latvian Railways website.
Timetables at train or
bus stations rarely include
timings of return journeys from
various destinations. Express
buses are generally indicated
by the letter “E”, while the
Commuters entering the Central Railway Station, Rīga equivalent for trains is
indi cated by three-digit route
Travelling by Train
visit several towns in a single numbers. Pietur indicates
The state-owned Latvian day. Although more expensive that a train or bus stops at a
Railways runs all trains in the than travelling by train, bus particular destination, while
country. Trains tend to take a travel is still good value. For nepietur means that it does
little longer than buses to reach overnight jour neys, it is not. Buses and trains listed as
their destinations, but the advisable to carry a blanket darbdienās run on weekdays,
journey is slightly more com- or sleeping bag. and the days of the week are
fortable, especially if travellers Autoosta (Rīga’s central bus often listed by their initial.
bring along cushions for the station) runs services to Bauska, Latvian stations number their
hard benches. However, the Cēsis, Sigulda, Daugavpils, perons (platform) and ceļš
windows rarely open, making Liepāja, Valmiera and Ventspils. (track) separately.
the carriages stuffy in summer.
The heating can be erratic.
The most useful routes are
from Rīga to Jūrmala Beach,
Jelgava and destinations in
Gauja National Park. There are
also train services to places
further afield such as Valmiera,
Daugavpils and Rēzekne. Rail
enthusiasts should take the
narrow-gauge line between
Alūksne and Gulbene.

Travelling by Coach
Regular coach services run
between most large towns and
cities. Other places are less
frequently served, therefore
careful planning is impor tant to One of the many extra-long public buses typical of Daugavpils

TRA VEL INFORM A TION 385


DIRECTORY
Travelling by Train
Latvian Railways
Gogoļa iela 3, Rīga.
Typical car rental sign at the Domestic Airport, Rīga Tel 6723 1181.
∑ ldz.lv
Travelling by Car major roads, degvielas stacija
and Motorcycle
(service stations) are often Travelling by Coach
Bringing or renting a vehicle open 24 hours, but in rural areas
is an excellent way to see it can be hard to find a place Autoosta
Latvia for those who come to refuel. Prāgas iela 1, Rīga.
for short trips, or wish to visit Parking is usually easy outside Tel 9000 0009.
out-of-the-way corners of the Rīga, although some cities,
country. However, neither notably Daugavpils and Liepāja, ∑ autoosta.lv
car rental nor petrol is cheap, have parking meters in certain
and road conditions vary areas. There is also a fee of €2 Car Hire
drama tically. Most major routes to enter Jūrmala, collected at
are in an acceptable state, a roadside booth. Budget Rent A Car
but minor roads can be in Tel 6720 7327.
poor condition. Many are ∑ budget.lv
surfaced with gravel or dirt. Car Hire
In winter, gritting is not Vehicle hire is most easily
widespread, and some minor arranged in Rīga, although other Travelling by Bicycle
roads become impassable towns and cities have hire offices. Cycling is a good way to
without a sturdy four-wheel- Most inter national car rental get around the relatively flat
drive vehicle. companies are represented in terrain of Latvia. Bicycles can be
Latvians tend to drive the capital, and many of them hired in many towns and cities.
aggressively and over taking have offices at the airport. The tourist information board
on blind corners is There are many smaller can provide details of cycle
common. Congestion companies as well. routes, such as the popular
is rare outside the Check the condition and easy trail from Rīga to
capital. The legal blood of the vehicle and the Jūrmala and routes in
alcohol limit is 0.05 per insurance cover provided. Gauja National Park and its
cent, with a 10-day Car hire services are surrounding valley. There are
prison sentence for Bumpy road sign operated by companies also two European Cycle Routes
exceeding it. Seat belt at Krāslava such as Budget Rent in Latvia, one of which, part of
use is mandatory in the A Car. Most companies the EuroVelo 10, runs along the
front seats, as well as in the rear stipulate a mini mum age for entire coast.
if fitted, and crash helmets must the person hiring the car. Bicycles are permitted on
be used on motorcycles. It is Requirements state that the trains, although you need to
compulsory to drive with driver should have held a licence buy a ticket for them. There are
the headlights switched on for at least a year. The driver may designated areas at the end of
at all times. The speed limit is also need to leave his credit card each carriage, marked with a
50 kmph (31 mph) in built-up details or a large deposit. bicycle symbol.
areas and 90 kmph (56 mph)
elsewhere. Traffic police cannot
always be spotted outside
towns and cities, but they are
strict about speeding and collect
fines on the spot. Remember to
ask for a receipt if you are fined.
In the countryside, changes
in speed limit are not always
sign posted and it is up to
the driver to notice signs
indicating built-up areas.
These are white rectangles
usually bearing the name of
the town or village.
Signposting is poor across
the country, making it essen tial
to buy a good roadmap. On Cyclists riding through a field of dandelions in Gauja National Park

386 SUR VIV AL GUIDE


Getting Around Rīga Minibuses
Rīga’s mikroautobuss (minibus)
Rīga’s compact Old Town is a pleasure to wander around and
network runs along the major
is best explored on foot. The cobbled streets, however, can boulevards and out into the
prove difficult for those with mobility problems. Several suburbs, and usually offers great
hotels are located within the Old Town, while many others are comfort and speed. The main
stops are outside the Central
within easy walking distance. It is also a short walk to the
Railway Station and the
unmissable Art Nouveau district from the city centre.
Orthodox Cathedral. Tickets cost
Attractions further afield, such as the Latvian Ethnographic marginally more than those for
Open-Air Museum, can be reached via the city’s extensive other public transport.
network of buses, mini buses, trolley buses and trams. Tickets
are available on board, while passes valid for various lengths Driving
of time can be purchased from newspaper kiosks. Taxis are
Driving in Rīga is seldom a
readily available outside the Old Town.
pleasant experience, marred by
heavy traffic during peak hours
and aggres sive drivers. Petrol
stations are readily found, and
roads tend to be in good condi-
tion, with just a few potholes.
It is worth noting that you
must not pass a tram that has its
doors open, since this might
endanger passengers, and you
must be careful not to block the
tram lines.
Parking
Parking can be difficult to find
in the city centre. It is also
Passengers boarding a bus at Rīga Bus Station expensive. Rates are €2 for the
first hour and €3 per hour on
Buses, Trolleybuses responsible for public transport, the streets of the Old Town. For
and Trams
SIA Rīgas Satiksme. Until those who really need a car, it is
With several bus, trolleybus and 2009 different payment systems best to choose a hotel with
tram routes, Rīga’s public operated for buses, trams and parking space.
transport system is a cheap and trolleybuses but now they
efficient way of getting around have finally been integrated.
outside the Old Town. It brings There is a single fare of €1.20 Taxis
many museums, hostels and paid to the driver on boarding. Taxis are abundant in Rīga and
hotels within easy reach of the There is no extra charge for are a comfortable, though
town centre and also offers luggage. However, it is better to relatively expensive, way of
access to the zoo, the Song purchase your ticket first from a getting around. They do not
Festival grounds and to several kiosk for €0.60. The etalon smart come in a standard colour,
large parks. card covers five, ten or twenty although all official cabs have
There are timetables at the journeys at a discount. Public yellow licence plates. Fares
various bus stops, but usually transport is free to holders of a vary from €0.35 to €0.70 per
no route maps are shown; Rīga Card (see p366). kilometre depending on the
therefore it is advisable to carry
one when travelling. Public
transport on most routes runs
between 5:30am and 11:30pm,
with some services operating
hourly throughout the night.
Autoosta (see p385) is close to
both the Central Railway
Station and Central Market.
Other transport hubs include
the stretch in front of the
Orthodox Cathedral.
Various organizations merged
in 2005 to form a single body Taxis for hire outside Rīga International Airport

TRA VEL INFORM A TION 387


taxi company. Fares tend to
increase by about 50 per cent
after midnight. It is usually
better to book a taxi in
advance, rather than flag one
down in the street, and you
might obtain a better price by
calling a reputable company
such as Rīga Taxi or Rīgas
Taxometru Parks. Taxis waiting
outside the upmarket hotels
tend to be more expensive.
Passengers must note that
drivers often refuse to accept a
fare of less than €5, and try to
charge at least that much to
take passengers from the bus
or railway station to a nearby
hotel. Visitors must ensure that
the meter is used, or at least
nego tiate a fare in advance,
before entering the taxi. It is
rarely difficult to find a taxi Pedestrians at a zebra crossing, Aspazijas bulvāris
during the day, while at night
taxis congregate at each end of particularly pleasant to wander popular Rīga In Your Pocket
Kaļķu iela. around in summer, when many guide, but it is only detailed
streets and squares are lined enough if you do not plan to
with terrace seating outside stray far from the centre. The
bars and cafés, and the weather guide also indicates public
is more suitable for walking. The transport routes.
area imme diately north of the
Old Town is home to some DIRECTORY
impressive Art Nouveau
buildings and several smart Buses, Trolleybuses
shops and res taurants. The main and Trams
street in Rīga’s Art Nouveau
district is Elizabetes iela, which SIA Rīgas Satiksme
inter sects with Brīvības bulvāris Tel 8000 1919.
(avenue). In addition, Alberta ∑ rigassatiksme.lv
and Strēlnieku iela also feature
examples of this style. Taxis
The Rīga Card (see p366) offers
Cycling in Rīga, a quick and easy way of free entry to many museums, a Rīga Taxi
getting around the city free walking tour of the Old Tel 8000 1010. ∑ taxi.lv
Town, and free public transport Rīgas Taksometru Parks
Cycling
within Rīga and Jūrmala. Since Tel 8383. ∑ rtp.lv
Getting around Rīga by bicycle is public transport is already so
a good option, despite the Old cheap in the country, investing Cycling
Town’s cobbled streets and the in the card is worthwhile only
heavy traffic in other parts of the if visitors are interested in the Eat Rīga
city. One of the more pleasant walking tour or in visiting Tel 2246 9888.
places for a ride is the pristine several museums in a single day. ∑ eatriga.lv
suburb of Mežaparks (see p160). The card is available in hotels, at
Eat Rīga can offer help with Rīga Airport and in the tourist City Card
bicycle rental in the city. information offices.
Rīga Card
Tel 6721 7217. ∑ rigacard.lv
Walking Maps
The Old Town is relatively The most widely available map Maps
small, with plenty of of the city is published by Jāņa
recog nizable landmarks, making Sēta, at a scale of 1:20,000 with Rīga in Your Pocket
the walk manageable as well the centre shown at a detailed Laipu iela 8–9a. Tel 6722 0580.
as enjoyable, in spite of the 1:7000. A much smaller version ∑ inyourpocket.com
cobblestoned streets. It is of the map is included in the

388 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
TRAVELLING TO LITHUANIA


The quickest and easiest way to reach regular departures from London, Paris
Lithuania is by air. Most airlines fly to Vilnius, and other European capitals. However,
which has direct connections with many getting to Lithuania by car is long and
European cities. Some international flights hazardous, given the bad roads in Poland.
arrive at Kaunas and Palanga airports. A daily train service links Warsaw with
Lithuania has only one sea port, at Klaipėda, Kaunas and Vilnius, with a change at
which offers a limited number of passenger Sestokai, on the Polish-Lithuanian frontier.
ferry services across the Baltic Sea to Lithuania is not covered by Eurail or
Germany and Scandinavia. By land, it is best InterRail, making travelling by train from
to travel to Lithuania by coach. There are Western Europe expensive.

Arriving by Air
Lithuania is well connected
with Europe and, via major
European transport hubs such
as London, Copenhagen and
Amsterdam, to the rest of the
world. Connectivity has
improved, with flights to and
from Vilnius timing in well with
intercontinental flights. Since
March 2008, the control of
internal borders among the
Schengen states, which also
include Estonia, Latvia and
Lithuania, was abolished.
Opened in 1944, Vilnius
Airport is the arrival point for
most flights. It is the only
airport among the Baltic International check-in hall at Vilnius Airport
capitals to have maintained its
original appearance of a Airlines, Norwegian, Nordica, as the majority of tickets are
formulaic, erstwhile Soviet-era Finnair, Lufthansa, Ryanair purchased on the Internet. In
terminal. Services at the airport and SAS. accordance with inter national
include car rental offices, From the United States, the agreements, most airline
currency exchange and cafés, most common routes to services operate a system of
as well as news paper kiosks Lithuania are via Warsaw, then reduced rates for children,
which also sell bus tickets. on to Vilnius with LOT; students and pensioners, as
airBaltic offers increased Stockholm or Copenhagen, well as pre-arranged groups.
services between Rīga and then on to Vilnius with SAS;
Vilnius, and direct services from or Helsinki, then on to Vilnius
Vilnius to several European with Finnair. Norwegian airlines From Vilnius Airport to
cities, including Amsterdam, fly via Oslo. the City Centre
Copenhagen, Dublin and Canadian visitors tend to Vilnius Airport is located 5 km
London. British Airways pulled fly via Frankfurt and Brussels (3 miles) south of the city
out of serving Vilnius due to with Lufthansa. centre. There is a train from the
low-cost airline competition. Travelling from Australia airport to Vilnius Main Station,
As a result, major international or New Zealand also requires which takes about 7 minutes,
flights and low-cost carriers multiple carriers, and it is although buses also operate.
from around 40 cities arrive in worth shopping around for Tickets are cheaper if bought
Lithuanian airports. These the best prices. at airport kiosks.
include almost all the capitals airBaltic has implemented a The bus stop and taxi rank
of Western Europe, as well as one-way ticket system, which are both outside the arrivals
Prague, Moscow, Minsk, Gomel, ensures the prices of tickets area. The official rate for taxis
Kiev, St Petersburg, Tbilisi, depend directly on demand. into town is about €8, but
Kaliningrad, Baku, Tel Aviv and The traditional “Sunday rule”, tourists will find it difficult to
other cities further east. Other with prices being higher on pay less than €15. Taxis take
European carriers that serve weekdays than on the about 20 minutes to reach
Vilnius include Austrian weekends, does not hold true, the city centre.

TRA VEL INFORM A TION 389


Other Lithuanian
Airports
The airports at Kaunas and
Palanga have scheduled inter-
national flights, although they
are fairly limited compared to
those at Vilnius Airport. New
terminals are being built at both
the airports in an effort to make
them better equipped. From
Kaunas Airport, shuttle bus
number 120 goes to Savanorių
prospektas (avenue) and the
Old Town, while bus number International cargo and passenger carrier sailing out of Klaipėda
29 goes to the bus station. A
minibus shuttle travels twice Arriving by Sea DIRECTORY
daily between Kaunas Airport Lithuania’s only commercial
and Vilnius, connecting all maritime harbour, Klaipėda Airlines
Ryanair flights, as that is the only State Sea Port, is linked by airBaltic
carrier operating in Kaunas at ferry to ports in Germany, ∑ airbaltic.com
the moment. For information Sweden and Denmark. There
on airport bus services, log on are connections between Austrian Airlines
to Ollex. There are hourly buses Klaipėda and Kiel and Mukran ∑ austrian.lt
from Palanga Airport to in Germany, Copenhagen- Finnair
Palanga and many buses Fredericia, Aabenraa-Aarhus ∑ finnair.com
operate between Palanga in Denmark and Karlshamn LOT
and Klaipėda. airBaltic offers in Sweden. ∑ lot.com
its passengers free mini bus
services from Palanga Airport to Lufthansa
Klaipėda. Buses head north from Arriving by Coach ∑ lufthansa.com
the airport to Liepāja in Latvia. Lithuania has an extensive Nordica
network of roads connecting ∑ nordica.ee
the country to neighbouring
Arriving by Car Norwegian
states. It is fairly simple to reach
As Lithuania is part of the Lithuania by bus or coach from ∑ norwegian.com
Schengen zone, there are no Estonia or Latvia as there are Ryanair
restrictions on entering it from numerous cross ing points. ∑ ryanair.com
Schengen countries. Drivers There are express passenger SAS
entering the country by car do coaches from Vilnius to Rīga ∑ flysas.com
not need an international and Tallinn, as well as other
driver’s licence, but it is essen tial cities including Warsaw, Berlin, Airports
that they carry the vehicle’s Prague, Vienna, Kaliningrad and
registration documents, Moscow. On the other hand, Kaunas Airport
insu rance papers, a passport the journey from countries such Karmėlava.
and a licence from their country. as Germany or the UK is very Tel (37) 399 396.
All cars must carry a first-aid kit long and the incon venience is ∑ kaunas-airport.lt
and fire extinguisher. best avoided. Palanga Airport
Liepojos pl 1.
Tel (460) 52 020.
∑ palanga-airport.lt
Vilnius Airport
Rodūnios kelias 10a.
Tel 273 9305.
∑ vilnius-airport.lt
Airport Bus Services
Ollex
∑ ollex.lt
Ferry Information
Klaipėda State Sea Port
∑ portofklaipeda.lt
Airport terminal building, Palanga Airport in Western Lithuania

390 SUR VIV AL GUIDE


Getting Around Lithuania Travelling by Train
The national rail network is run
Lithuania’s excellent road network makes it very easy to get by Lietuvos Geležinkeliai
around. Buses are the fastest and most conve nient mode of (Lithuanian Railways). The main
public transport in the country. Express buses link virtually routes are from Vilnius to Šiauliai
every town in Lithuania and are also a great way to see the and Klaipėda, Vilnius to Visaginas,
which passes by Ignalina and
countryside. Trains are cheaper, but also less frequent and Aukštaitija National Park, Šiauliai
with far fewer routes. The roads in Lithuania are some of the to Panevėžys and Rokiškis, and
best-maintained in Central and Eastern Europe, which often the compara tively speedy and
makes hiring a car the most comfortable way to travel. The regular Vilnius to Kaunas route.
country’s relatively flat landscape, punctuated by low hills, The Vilnius to Varėna line conti-
nues to Dzūkija National Park
makes it ideal for cycling as well.
before heading into Belarus.
One of the most enjoyable and
scenic train journeys in
Lithuania is on the Narrow-
Gauge Railway, which runs from
Panevėžys to Lake Rubikiai.
All train tickets must be
purchased at the ticket desks
at railway stations. Reductions
are available for young child-
ren, pensioners and also
disabled passengers.
Lithuania’s autobusų stotis (bus
stations) and traukinių stotis
International luxury coach at the bus station in Panevėžys (railway stations) are generally
located close to one another
Travelling by Bus
buy them from the driver on and are within easy walking
Buses form the main mode boarding, especially on minor distance of the town centre.
of Lithuania’s public transport routes. In summer, or during Theft is rare, although it is best
network. The privately owned weekends when services are to keep an eye on your
bus company Toks operates more regularly used, it is worth belongings. Risk to personal
comfortable buses on more buying tickets in advance. Tickets safety is seldom an issue when
than 50 routes countrywide as have to be paid for in cash and travelling in Lithuania, but
well as 11 international routes there are no facilities for reserving security guards are often
for Eurolines. Although them by telephone or on the deployed at Vilnius Bus Station.
travelling by bus is usually a Internet. Disabled passengers, However, bus and train
little more expensive than by senior citizens over the age of 70 stations place little emphasis on
train, buses are quicker and and children below the age of cleanliness and hygiene,
connect more places. ten, are entitled to a 50 per cent although the stations at Vilnius
Schedules are written on signs discount. Pre-school children and Kaunas have now been
at the head of each stand, as well travel free. Groups of ten passen- modernized. At the larger
as inside the bus station building. gers or more get price reductions railway stations it is also possible
Express buses, marked by an “E” if travel is arranged in advance. to leave your baggage at the
in the schedules, sometimes
operate on intercity routes,
bypassing smaller towns and
villages along the way. Many of
the bus services to the coast, for
instance to Palanga or Nida, are
seasonal and operate in summer
only. For more information on
frequency of services check the
official website for Toks.
Vilnius Bus Station is the
country’s biggest bus trans port
hub, although Kaunas Bus
Station also has links with
various European cities.
Tickets can be bought at ticket
desks in bus stations in larger
towns, although you can also The Narrow-Gauge Railway, one of the most scenic and enjoyable train journeys

TRA VEL INFORM A TION 391


DIRECTORY
Travelling by Bus
Eurolines
∑ eurolines.lt
Kaunas Bus Station
Vytauto 24. Tel (37) 409 060.
Toks
∑ toks.lt
Vilnius Bus Station
Sodų 22. Tel 8900 01661.
∑ autobusubilietai.lt
Well-maintained ticket office in the railway station, Vilnius Travelling by Train
left luggage room for a small built-up areas is 50 kmph Lietuvos Geležinkeliai
fee, or deposit it in a self- (31 mph), but drivers are rarely ∑ litrail.lt
service locker. stopped for speed ing unless
they exceed a speed of 60 kmph Car Hire
(37 mph).
Travelling by Car
Drink driving is a punishable Aunela
Roads in Lithuania are excellent offence and local authorities ∑ aunela.lt
by post-Soviet stan dards, and sometimes use roadblocks and
present no special problems to breathalyzer tests as
drivers. There are different enforcement tools. Road Signs
categories of road, with different Signposting on motorways,
speed restric tions. The highest country roads and minor roads
category is the motorway, but Car Hire is comprehensible. When
there are only two of these, A large number of local and entering a town or village, the
Kaunas to Klaipėda (A1), and well-known international car settlement’s name appears
Vilnius to Panevėžys (A2). hire companies offer a wide on a sign with black lettering
Although the Vilnius–Kaunas range of vehicles for rental in on a white back ground. This
and Kaunas–Klaipėda roads Lithuania. Some have desks at indicates that drivers must slow
look the same, the former Vilnius Airport and upmarket down to the speed limit for
stretch is not the “motorway” hotels. Many others can be built-up areas. Small blue signs
class because of its hilly terrain. found in Vilnius city centre. near road junctions in Vilnius
There are no toll roads in Local firms, such as Aunela, city centre point the way to
Lithuania, except through the have a range of newer and older streets, sights and landmarks.
Curonian Spit National Park. Western makes of car. The Key road signs to look out for
Lithuanian regulations state minimum rental period is are those regulating speed,
that every car must carry a small usually 24 hours. Payments for controlling roadside parking
fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit, a car hire can be made with and preventing right or left
reflective warning triangle and cash or through any major turns. These are often
reflective safety vest. It is credit card. moni tored by traffic police.
mandatory for the driver and
passengers to wear seat belts.
Motorists must use headlights
at all times, both during the day
and night. The traffic police may
not be able to speak fluent
English but are stringent about
rules and can collect fines on
the spot.
The maximum permissible
speed limit on motorways is
130 kmph (81 mph) from May
to October and 110 kmph
(68 mph) for the rest of the year,
the exception being the Vilnius–
Kaunas motorway where the
speed limit remains 110 kmph
(68 mph). The speed limit in Part of Klaipėda’s recently modernized road network

392 SUR VIV AL GUIDE


Getting Around Vilnius woes in the short term. With
the rise in the number of
The best way to explore Vilnius is on foot as most sights such vehicles, tailgating and over-
as churches, museums, restaurants and cafés are within easy taking have become standard
walking distance of each other. It is only a short walk to the practice. Central Vilnius has an
main sights from the city’s main thorough fare, Gedimino exten sive one-way system,
which can be quite tricky to
Avenue. Vilnius’s Old Town is among the biggest in Europe negotiate without a road map.
and much of the city’s inner traffic is kept to roads that circle its
boundary. To reach the sights and restaurants that lie outside Parking
the city centre, visitors can use the reliable network of
trolleybuses and buses. Taxi services are usually trustworthy Multi-storey car parks in Vilnius
are few. Most often drivers use
but getting around by road is best avoided at rush hour.
roadside parking. In the city
centre, drivers can use
controlled parking bet ween
8am and 6pm, using a pay-
and-display machine. Parking
is more expensive in the Old
Town. Failing to pay results in
a wheel-clamp, a lengthy wait
and then a very heavy fine.
In parked cars, all objects,
including bags and clothing
should be locked out of sight.
Taxis
Modern trolleybus, part of Vilnius’s public transport network
Taxis are easily available in
Buses and Trolleybuses
peak hours, especially early Vilnius, although during rush
Vilnius has a very dependable mornings and late evenings. hour and late on weekend
network of trolleybuses and The problem is further com- evenings it may be necessary
buses with frequent services that pounded by the erstwhile to call several companies
span the city. Some of the older Soviet city planning. The lack before finding a free cab.
vehicles are now being replaced of roads is a serious issue that Ordering a taxi by telephone is
with modern ones. However, Vilnius’s city council is strug- cheaper than hailing one on
public trans port is best avoided gling to solve with the help the street. The average charge
during rush hour, when trolley- of EU funds. However, road is €0.50 per kilometre, though
buses and buses are crowded. construction causes further prices are higher at night.
A detailed map of the city’s bus blockades, adding to drivers’ Companies such as Romerta
routes is available on the Vilnius
Transport website. The time-
tables for every stotelė (stop) can
be viewed by clicking “autobusų”
for buses and “troleibusų” for
trolley buses. Few services run
between 11pm and 5am.
A standard bilietas (ticket) is
valid on both buses and trolley-
buses. This must be bought in
advance at a kiosk or from the
driver on boarding, and then
validated by punching it in one
of the machines on board.
Passes for one, three and ten
days are available. Penalties for
travelling with out a valid ticket
are high.
Driving in Vilnius
Traffic density has increased
rapidly in Vilnius in recent years,
resulting in congestion during A busy road in Vilnius during peak traffic hour

TRA VEL INFORM A TION 393


and transport. West Express
organizes specialized tours, such
as Jewish Vilnius. Balloon flights
with Ballooning Centre are
especially memorable.

Car Hire
A convenient alternative for
getting around the city and
taking day-trips to nearby
Martono Taksi, an expensive but reliable option attractions such as Trakai is to
hire a car. International car
and Ekipažas are generally shopping, festivals and parades, rental companies, such as
reliable. All taxis must have a besides being an attraction in Europcar, Avis and Hertz, and
working meter, so check the itself. Stretching from Cathedral local companies such as Aunela,
initial reading as you get in. Square in the east to Žvėrynas offer insured vehicles.
in the west, it becomes
ped estrianized in the DIRECTORY
Cycling
evenings. The lush districts of
Conditions for cyclists vary Žvėrynas and Užupis are on Buses and Trolleybuses
considerably around the city. either sides of the Old Town. Vilnius Transport
Bicycle routes are clearly The former leads to the Sodų 22. Tel 216 0054.
marked on many of the pave- splendid views of the Neris ∑ vilniustransport.lt
ments in the Old Town, along river and Vingis Park, reachable
roads such as Gedimino and by a pedestrian bridge. A walk Taxis
Konstitucijos avenues and into to Užupis may culminate in a
districts such as Žvėrynas and peaceful wander around Ekipažas
Vingis Park. EuroVelo route 11 is Bernadinų Cemetery, or you Šv Stepono 33a. Tel 233 7958.
an Eastern European cycle route could continue on as far as ∑ ekipazastaksi.lt
that runs through the eastern Belmontas and the Church of Romerta
Baltic region, taking in Vilnius Sts Peter and Paul. Garsioji 9. Tel 275 6969.
and Tartu. It has now been ∑ romerta.lt
extended to Vilnius from the
southwest to the northeast, Cycling
towards Verkiai. However, Baltic Cycle
cycling along roads that do Vytenio 6–110. Tel 6995 6009.
not have bicycle lanes is not ∑ bicycle.lt
recommended. Bicycles can
be rented at Baltic Cycle. Sightseeing Tours
Ballooning Centre
Walking Upės 5. Tel 6520 0510.
∑ ballooning.lt
Each sight is just a few steps
from the next one, allowing Senamiesčio Gidas
visitors to expe rience the Old Aušros vartų 7. Tel 6995 4064.
Town’s magnificent archi tecture ∑ vilniuscitytour.com
from close quarters. There are Visit Lithuania
many pedestrianized streets L Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 1.
and, despite the occa sional Visitors walking down Pilies Street towards Tel 262 5241.
reckless driver, traffic is rarely Upper Castle, Old Town ∑ visitlithuania.net
a hindrance. West Express
Crossing roads in Vilnius can Sightseeing Tours A Stulginskio 5. Tel 255 3255.
sometimes be hazardous. At Tour guides in Vilnius are ∑ westexpress.lt
many crossings a “red man” and professional and speak fluent
“green man” guide pedestrians English. A typical sightseeing Car Hire
on when to cross. However, at tour arranged by Senamiesčio
road junctions, there are traffic Gidas includes a trip to the Old Avis
lights just for cars. When at a Town, Užupis and the Church of ∑ avis.com
pedestrian crossing without Sts Peter and Paul. Customized Europcar
lights, cars must give way to tours can also be arranged. ∑ europcar.com
pedestrians, but they do not Travel agencies such as Visit Hertz
always do so. Gedimino Avenue Lithuania also arrange guided ∑ hertz.com
is the city’s main street for tours as well as accommo dation

394 GENERAL INDEX


General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Anykščiai Northern Railway Museum Basanavičius, Dr Jonas 218, 248
main entries. 269 Basilian Gate (Vilnius) 237, 238
Apartments 293, 295 Basilian Monastery (Vilnius) 235, 237
A Apparition of the Holy Mother of God Basketball 360
Abava river 182 Church (Vilnius) 245 Bastejkalns (Rīga) 154
Academy of Sciences (Rīga) 158 Applied Arts Museum (Vilnius) 231 Bathory, Stefan 153, 215, 217, 279
Accommodation 292–307 Aqua Park (Ventspils) 181 Battle of Grünwald (Matejko) 34, 216–17
Estonia 296–9 Āraiši Lake Fortress 193 Battle of Poltava (Lomonosov) 37
Latvia 300–303 Architecture 20–21 Bauļins, Leonīds 200
Lithuania 304–7 Art Nouveau in Rīga 156–7 Baumanis, Kārlis 195
see also Apartments; Camp sites; Baroque Vilnius 237 Bauska 169, 170–71
Guesthouses; Hostels; Hotels; Private Medieval 65 hotels 301
homes Museum of Estonian Architecture Bauska Alus brewery 171
Adamson, Amandus 82 (Tallinn) 77 Bears, brown 23
Adamson-Eric 70 Arctic lichen 23 Beer 312–13
Adamson-Eric Museum (Tallinn) 75 Arsenal Museum of Art (Rīga) 148 Brewery tours 360, 361
Admission charges 366 Art Days and Museum Nights (Latvia) Bees 22, 270, 271
Aegna Island (Tallinn) 85 136 Beekeeping 271
Aglona 15, 131, 171, 187, 199 Art Museum Rīga Bourse 147 Beekeeping Museum (Aukštaitija
hotels 302 Art Nouveau 20, 21 National Park) 270, 271
restaurants 324 Art Nouveau Museum (Rīga) 156 Beethoven, Ludwig van 182
Aglona Basilica 199 Rīga 143, 156–7 Beit Bella Synagogue (Tallinn) 41
Ahja river 126 Art shops Beit midrash (Kalvarija) 261
Ainaži 194 Latvia 337 Belfry (Vilnius Cathedral) 230
Air travel Rīga 338–9 Berg, Count Friedrich von 124
Estonia 376, 377, 379 Tallinn 334 Berlitz, J G 170
Latvia 382, 2833 Vilnius 343 Bernardine Church (Vilnius) 232
Lithuania 388–9 Artillery Bastion (Vilnius) 239 Berry-picking 359, 361
Airport transfers Artists’ Hill (Sigulda) 192 Bērze river 171
Rīga 382 Arts and Crafts Fair (Rīga) 136 Beržoras 282
Tallinn 376 Arts, visual 26 Bicycle Museum (Saulkrasti) 196
Vilnius 388 Aspazija see Rozenberga, Elza Bicycle Museum (Šiauliai) 276
Aken, Hans von 67 Aspazija House (Jūrmala) 174 Biķernieki Forest 161
Akste Anthills 126 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Birds 22–3
Albert II Radvila 216 (Liepāja) 137 bird-watching 356–7, 361
Alberta iela (Rīga) 21, 157 Astronomical Observatory (Molėtai) 269 Nemunas Delta 287
Alekna, Virgilijus 27, 211 Ates Mill Museum (Umernieki) 203 Ornithological Centre (Lake Engure)
Alekšupīte river 183 ATMs 370 176
Alexander I, Tsar 38, 81, 226 Augustus II of Poland 268 see also Wildlife
Alexander II, Tsar 232 Aukštaitija/Aukštaitijans 35, 214, 253 Birgitta Festival (Tallinn) 53
Alexander III, Tsar 74, 141 Aukštaitija National Park 11, 17, 212, Birkerts, Gunnar 159
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Tallinn) 255, 270–71 Biron, Duke Ernst Johann 170, 172, 173
12, 24, 58, 72, 74 hotels 305 Birštonas 261
Algirdas, Grand Duke 227, 231, 232, restaurants 328 hotels 305
238 Aušra 218, 248 restaurants 328
Alternative Art Centre (Užupis) 244 Aušra Avenue Palace (Šiauliai) 276 Birštonas Jazz 261
Altja 13, 111, 113 Aušra Museum (Šiauliai) 276 Birutuės Hill (Palanga) 286
Alūksne 203 Aviation Museum (Rīga) 160 Biržai 268
Alunāns, Juris 195 restaurants 328
Alytupis river 260 B Bishop’s Castle (Haapsalu) 92
Alytus 253, 260–61 Babrungėnai 282 Bishop’s Castle (Kuressaare) 97, 98
hotels 305 Bach, J S 184 Bishop’s Castle (Saaremaa) 12
restaurants 328 Baer, Karl Ernst von 119 Black Knight 197
Amber 30–31 statue (Tartu) 119, 121 Black Nights Film Festival (Tallinn) 53
Amber Museum (Palanga) 31, 286 Ballet Blackheads see Brotherhood of
The Amber Route 31 Estonia 344, 345 Blackheads
amber-catchers 30 Rīga 350, 351 Blacksmiths’ Museum (Klaipėda) 284
in folklore 31 Tallinn 346, 347 Blaumanis, Rūdolfs 27
formation of 30 Vilnius 354, 355 Blue Hills (Zilie kalni) 177
shops in Latvia 337, 339 Ballivi, Johann 71 Blūmentāls, Arvīds 176
shops in Lithuania 340–41, 342 Balloon flights (Vilnius) 393 Bobsleigh Run (Sigulda) 190
Ambulances 369 Baltic Beach (Curonian Spit) 288 Bogdanas, Konstantinas 242
Amenda, Karl 182 Baltic crusade 35 Bonaparte, Napoleon see Napoleon I,
Ammende Villa (Pärnu) 103 Baltic Klint 23 Emperor
André, Edouard 286 Baltic psaltery 29 Book shops
Angel Bridge (Tartu) 120 Baltic tribes/Balts 35, 39, 253 Tallinn 335
Angla Windmills (Saaremaa) 12, 48, 97, Baltic Way 43, 230 Vilnius 343
98–9 Baltica festival 28–9 Botanical Gardens (Rīga) 159
Animism 24 Balzukevičius, Juozas 227 Brazauskas, Algirdas 219
Anna, Empress of Russia 173 Banking 370–71 Brewery tours 360, 361
Ännchen of Tharau (Klaipėda) 284 Baron von Glehn Castle (Tallinn) 85 Brezhnev, Leonid 162
Antakalnis Cemetery (Vilnius) 244–5 Barons, Krišjānis 155, 192, 195 Brigadere, Anna 171
Antiques Krišjānis Barons Memorial Museum Anna Brigadere Museum (Tērvete)
Latvia 337 (Rīga) 154–5 171
Rīga 338–9 Baroque architecture 20 Brīvzemnieks, Fricis 195
Tallinn 334–5 Baroque Vilnius 237 Brotherhood of Blackheads
Vilnius 343 Baroque Music Festival (Tallinn) 53 House of Blackheads (Rīga) 143, 150,
Anykščiai 269 Bars and pubs 308 152
hotels 305 Latvia 349, 351 House of Blackheads (Tallinn) 20, 70
restaurants 328 Baryshnikov, Mikhail 27 Niguliste Church (Tallinn) 68, 69

GENERAL INDEX 395




Brotherhood of the Sword 36, 54, 192, Castles and fortifications (cont.) Čepkeliai Reserve 260
195 Tallinn city walls 65, 66 Cēsis 14, 138, 187, 191, 192–3
Brothers Cemetery (Rīga) 161 Tallinn Gate (Pärnu) 102 festivals 136
Bunka, Jacob 281 Taurapilis (Aukštaitija National Park) Chagin, Nikolai 227, 232
Burbiškis Manor 278 270 Chaim Frenkel Villa (Šiauliai) 276
Bureaux de change 370 Toompea Castle (Tallinn) 12, 54, 72, 74 Chapels
Buses Trakai Island Castle 11, 16, 207, 253, Chapel of the Holy Queens (Sts Peter
Estonia 378 256–7, 266–7 and Paul, Vilnius) 246
Rīga 386, 387 Turaīda Castle 186, 190, 192 Chapel of the Holy Stairs (Friary of the
Tallinn 380, 381 Uldevena Castle (Lielvārde) 197 Blessed Virgin Mary, Tytuvėnai) 278
Vilnius 392, 393 Upper Castle (Vilnius) 16, 224, 230 Chapel of St Ursula (Sts Peter and
Business hours 365 Vao Stronghold Tower Museum Paul, Vilnius) 247
Buxhoevden, Bishop Albert von 138, (Väike-Maarja) 117 Gates of Dawn (Vilnius) 16, 217, 235,
143, 146 Vastseliina Castle 125 239
Veliuona fort-hill 279 Rainiai Chapel of Suffering 280
C Ventspils Castle 14, 15, 180 St Casimir’s Chapel (Vilnius Cathedral)
Čakste, Janis 161 Vytautas Castle Hill (Birštonas) 261 207, 224, 229, 237, 238, 247
Calvary Church of the Holy Cross Cat Museum (Šiauliai) 277 Valevičius Chapel (Vilnius Cathedral)
(Vilnius) 249 Cathedral Hill (Tartu) see Toomemägi 228
Camp sites 294, 295 Cathedral Square (Rīga) 143 Charles XI of Sweden 37
Canoeing 359 Cathedral Square (Vilnius) 230 Charles XII of Sweden 37, 55
Cape Kolka 177 Cathedrals Children
hotels 301 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Tallinn) in hotels 295
restaurants 322 12, 24, 58, 72, 74 in restaurants 309
Capital Days (Vilnius) 213 Cathedral of Christ the King travelling with 367
Car hire (Panevėžys) 268 Choral Synagogue (Vilnius) 243
Estonia 379 Cathedral ruins (Tartu) 121 Choral Synagogue Ruins (Rīga) 40, 158
Latvia 385 Cathedral of St Anthony of Padua Christianity
Lithuania 391 (Telšiai) 280 in Estonia 50, 54
Vilnius 393 Cathedral of St Mary the Virgin introduction of 36
Casimir, St 229 (Tallinn) 73, 74–5 in Latvia 134
Casinos (Rīga) 351 Cathedral of Sts Boris and Glebe in Lithuania 210, 214, 217, 273
Castello, Matteo 247 (Daugavpils) 15, 200 Christmas 137, 213
Castle Island (Lake Plateliai) 281 Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul Christmas, Battle of 139
Castle of Light (Rīga) 159 (Kaunas) 16, 263 Christmas Jazz Festival (Estonia) 53
Castles and fortifications Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul Christopher Summer Festival (Vilnius)
Āraiši Lake Fortress (Gauja National (Šiauliai) 276–7 212
Park) 191, 193 Dome Cathedral (Haapsalu) 12, 92 Christopher’s Guitars (Vilnius) 213
Artillery Bastion (Vilnius) 239 Dome Cathedral (Rīga) 14, 138, 146 Church Heritage Museum (Vilnius) 233
Baron von Glehn Castle (Tallinn) 85 Dormition Cathedral (Kuremäe) 116 Churches
Bauska Castle 169, 170–71 Orthodox Cathedral (Rīga) 24, 155 opening hours 366
Biržai Castle 268 Orthodox Cathedral of St Simeon Aglona Basilica 15, 199
Bishop’s Castle (Haapsalu) 12, 91, 92 and St Anna (Jelgava) 15, 170 Apparition of the Holy Mother of God
Bishop’s Castle (Kuressaare) 97, 98 St Jacob’s Cathedral (Rīga) 147 Church (Vilnius) 245
Bishop’s Castle (Saaremaa) 12 St Joseph’s Cathedral (Liepāja) 185 Bernardine Church (Vilnius) 232
Castle Museum (Haapsalu) 92 St Nicholas’s Orthodox Cathedral Calvary Church of the Holy Cross
Castle Museum (Klaipėda) 284 (Karosta) 2–3, 185 (Vilnius) 249
Cēsis Castle Complex 193 Vilnius Cathedral 16, 207, 224, 228–9 Church of the Annunciation
Daugavpils Fortress 15, 201 Catherine I, Empress of Russia 80, 81, 83 (Kretinga) 286
Fat Margaret Tower (Tallinn) 61, 65, 71 Catherine II (the Great), Empress of Church of the Apparition of the
Ivangorod Castle 108 Russia 38, 170, 173, 279 Blessed Virgin Mary (Šiluva) 279
Jaunpils Castle 15, 174 Catholicism 24, 25 Church of the Ascension (Raseiniai)
Kaunas Castle 16, 262 Cats’ House (Rīga) 149 279
Kernavė medieval ramparts and Caves Church of the Birth of the Mother of
fortifications 258 Devil’s Cave (Mazsalaca) 195 God (Daugavpils) 200
Kiek-in-de-Kök (Tallinn) 65, 72, 75 Gutmana Cave 191 Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Krāslava Castle 198 Liv Sacrificial Caves (near Salacgrīva) (Kalvarija) 261
Krustpils Castle (Jēkabpils) 198 194 Church of the Friary of the Blessed
Kuressaare Castle 20 Maiden’s Cave (Taevaskoja) 126 Virgin Mary (Tytuvėnai) 278
Lihula Castle 95 Mara’s Cave (near Sabile) 182 Church of the Holy Cross (Šedura)
Liškiava Castle 260 Peter’s Cave (Sigulda) 192 278
Livonian Order Castle (Dobele) 171 Riežupe Sand Caves (near Kuldīga) Church of the Holy Spirit (Vilnius) 25,
Livonian Order Castle (Dundaga) 176 183 237, 238
Livonian Order Castle (Koknese) 197 Werewolf Pine Cave (Mazsalaca) 195 Church of the Holy Trinity (Kaunas)
Lower Castle (Vilnius) 224, 230 Cemeteries 262
Narva Castle 47, 116, 117 Antakalnis Cemetery (Vilnius) 244–5 Church of the Holy Trinity (Vilnius)
New Castle (Sigulda) 190, 192 Brothers’ Cemetery (Rīga) 161 238
Ninth Fort (Kaunas) 264 Karaim Cemetery (Trakai) 257 Church of Jesus (Rīga) 158
Nunna, Sauna and Kuldjala towers Nikolai Cemetery (Jelgava) 170 Church of the Nativity of the Blessed
(Tallinn) 65 Rainis Cemetery (Rīga) 161 Virgin Mary (Šiluva) 278–9
Paide Castle Tower 117 Rasos Cemetery (Vilnius) 248 Church of the Resurrection (Kaunas)
Palace Tower (Tukums) 175 Rīga cemeteries 161 264
Panemunė Castle 279 Vācu Karavīru Kapi (near Saldus) 183 Church of St Anne (Vilnius) 20, 225,
Põltsamaa Castle 117 Woodlands Cemetery (Rīga) 161 232–3
Powder Tower (Rīga) 149 Central Lithuania 252–71 Church of St Casimir (Vilnius) 16, 234,
Punia hill fort 261 hotels 305–6 236
Rakvere Castle 116 map 254–5 Church of St Catherine (Vilnius) 237,
Raudonė 279 restaurants 328–30 241
Rīga Castle 147 travel 255 Church of St George (Kaunas) 262
St Jacob’s Barracks (Rīga) 148 Central Market (Rīga) 159 Church of St John (Vilnius) 237

396 GENERAL INDEX


Churches (cont.) Cinema (cont.) Dairy produce 311
Church of St Michael (Kaunas) 264 film festivals 53, 212, 213 Daliņš, Jānis 27
Church of St Michael (Marijampolė) Latvia 349 Dance 27
261 Lithuania 353 Estonia 344, 345
Church of St Michael (Vilnius) 233 Rīga 351 Rīga 350, 351
Church of St Nicholas (Vilnius) 240 Tallinn 347 Tallinn 346, 347
Church of St Paraskeva (Vilnius) 16, Vilnius 355 Vilnius 354, 355
227 Cinema Spring (Vilnius) 212 Dannenstern House (Rīga) 151
Church of St Stanislav (Beržovas) 282 Cīrulis, Ansis 193 Danse Macabre (Notke) 68, 69
Church of St Theresa (Vilnius) 235, Čiurlionis, Mikalojus Konstantinas 26, Dargis, Alfonsas 280
237, 238, 247 27, 211, 248, 265 Darius, Steponas 264
Church of Sts Peter and Paul (Vilnius) Čiurlionis House (Vilnius) 236 Darwin, Charles 119
246–7 Čiurlionis Memorial Museum Dārziņš, Emīls 203
Church of the Transfiguration of Our (Druskininkai) 259 Dauderi (Rīga) 14, 160
Lord (Tallinn) 70 M K Čiurlionis Art Museum (Kaunas) Daugava river 162, 194, 196, 197, 198
Dome Church (Tallinn) see Cathedral 264, 265 Daugavpils 200, 201
of St Mary the Virgin The Offering 26 Rīga 144, 145, 158, 159
Dominican Church (Vilnius) 240–41 Čiurlionis, Sofija 236 as trade route 138
Elizabeth’s Church (Pärnu) 102 Civic Art Gallery (Panevėžys) 268 Daugavpils 15, 187, 200–201
Evangelical Lutheran Church (Šilutė) Classical architecture 21 climate 33
287 Classical Music festivals 137
Franciscan Church (Vilnius) 240 Estonia 344, 345 hotels 302
Guardian Angels’ Church (Alytus) 260 Latvia 348–9 restaurants 324
Holy Mother of God Church (Vilnius) Lithuania 352, 353 Dead Dunes (Curonian Spit) 289
232 Rīga 350–51 Delaroche, Hippolyte, Portrait of Peter
Holy Spirit Church (Tallinn) 62, 64 Tallinn 346, 347 the Great 83
Holy Trinity Church (Liepāja) 15, 184 Vilnius 354, 355 Denmark, captures Tallinn 54, 59
Holy Trinity Church (Liškiava) 260 Climate 32–3 Department stores
Kaarma Church (Saaremaa) 97, 99 when to visit 364 Estonia 333
Karja Church (Saaremaa) 12, 99 Clock Museum (Klaipėda) 284–5 Latvia 336, 338
Kihelkonna Church (Saaremaa) 97, 99 Clothes Lithuania 340
Lutheran Church of St Nicholas shops in Rīga 338 Devil’s Bridge (Tartu) 120
(Ventspils) 181 shops in Vilnius 342 Devil’s Footprint Stone (Žemaitija
Martin Luther Church (Daugavpils) what to wear 366–7 National Park) 282
201 Clubs (Latvia) 349, 351 Devils Museum (Kaunas) 16, 264
Niguliste Church (Tallinn) 12, 63, Coach travel Dialling codes 373–5
68–9 Estonia 377 Dievturība 24
Old Believer’s Church (Lake Peipsi) 25 Latvia 383 Disabled travellers 367
Orthodox Church (Limbaži) 195 Lithuania 389 in hotels 295
Orthodox Church of St Nicholas Coastline 23 in restaurants 309
(Vilnius) 233 Communications 372–5 Discount card schemes 366
Roman Catholic Church (Preiļi) 199 Estonia 373 Diving 359
Russian Orthodox Church Latvia 374 Dobele 171
(Druskininkai) 252, 259 Lithuania 375 Dobele History Museum 171
Russian Orthodox Church of the Consulates 365 Dobele Horticultural Plant Breeding
Annunciation (Rīga) 158 Contemporary architecture 21 Experimental Station 171
Russian Orthodox Church of St Contemporary Art Centre (Vilnius) 234, Dome Cathedral (Haapsalu) 12, 92
Nikolas (Ventspils) 180 236 Dome Cathedral (Rīga) 14, 138, 146
St Anne’s Basilica (Liepāja) 184 Contius, H A 184 Dome Church (Tallinn) see Cathedral of
St Catherine’s Church (Pärnu) 102 Counter-Reformation 25 St Mary the Virgin
St Catherine’s Church (Tallinn) 67 Courier services 373, 374, 375 Dominican Monastery (Tallinn) 63,
St George’s Church (Rīga) 153 Cow-Swimming Festival (Aukštaitija 67
St John’s Church (Rīga) 151, 153 National Park) 212 Dominican Church (Vilnius) 240–41
St John’s Church (Tartu) 13, 118 Crafts see Handicrafts Domšaitis, Pranas 285
St John’s Church (Vilnius) 16, 225, 226 Credit cards 370 Dormition Cathedral (Kuremäe) 116
St Mary’s Church (Ikšķile) 196 Credo International Festival of Dragonhead waterspout (Tallinn Town
St Mary’s Church (Põlva) 126 Orthodox Sacred Music (Tallinn) 53 Hall) 65
St Mary’s Church (Rõuge) 124–5 Crime 368 Drinks 312–13
St Nicholas’s Church (Kuressaare) 98 Crimean War 39 Driving
St Nicholas’s Church (Põltsamaa) 117 Cultural Centre (Põlva) 126 Estonia 377, 379
St Nicholas’s Orthodox Church Culture Latvia 383, 385
(Jēkabpils) 198 Estonia 49–50 Lithuania 389, 391
St Olav’s Church (Hullo) 92, 93 Latvia 134 Rīga 386
St Olav’s Church (Tallinn) 54, 71 Lithuania 211 Tallinn 380
St Peter’s Church (Rīga) 14, 151, 153 Curonian Lagoon 288–9 Vilnius 392, 393
St Saviour’s Church (Rīga) 147 Curonian Spit 273, 274, 288–9 Drobiazko, Margarita 211
St Simon’s Church (Valmiera) 194 Curonian Spit National Park 11, 17, 209, Drubazas Botany Trail (Sabile) 182
Skaistkalne Roman Catholic Church 273, 288–9 Druskininkai 11, 17, 252, 253, 259
171 hotels 306 hotels 305
Trinapolis Church (Vilnius) 249 restaurants 330 restaurants 328
Turaida Church 192 Curonians 35 Ducal Palace (Trakai) 257
Usma Church (Latvian Ethnographic Currency 370–71 Duchy of Courland
Open-Air Museum) 163 Customs regulations 364–5 Bauska 171
Virgin Mary Catholic Church Cycling 357, 361 Ernst Johann Biron 173
(Daugavpils) 201 Latvia 383, 385 Jelgava 170
Virgin Mary’s Lutheran Church Rīga 387 and Poland 37, 138, 139, 167
(Otepää) 25 Tallinn 381 Russian annexation 172
Vytautas Church (Kaunas) 263 Vilnius 393 Dundaga 176
Zapyškis Church (Kaunas) 265 Czechowicz, Szymon 238 hotels 301
see also Cathedrals; Chapels; restaurants 322
Monasteries and convents D Dunes, shifting 289
Cinema 26 Dach, Simon 284 Dunte 196
Estonia 345 Dainos (traditional songs) 28 Durbes Pils (Tukums) 175

GENERAL INDEX 397


Dutch Windmill (Latvian Ethnographic Estonian Maritime Museum (Tallinn) 71 Forest Brothers 43, 82, 117, 122, 242
Open-Air Museum) 163 Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Forests 22
Dzintari Beach (Jūrmala) 175 Design (Tallinn) 70 Biķernieki Forest 161
Dzintari Concert Hall (Jūrmala) 175 Estonian Music Days 52 forest trails (Curonian Spit National
Džiugas 280 Estonian National Library (Tallinn) 75 Park) 289
Dzūkija 253, 260, 341 Estonian National Museum (Tartu) 119 Forestry Museum (Lahemaa National
Dzūkija National Park 258–9, 260 Estonian National Opera (Tallinn) 76–7 Park) 111
Estonian Open-Air Museum (Tallinn) Forestry Museum (Sagadi Manor) 113
E 10, 12, 85 Karšuva Forest 280
Eastern Estonia 106–27 Estonian Railway Museum (Haapsalu) Oandu Forest Nature Trail (Lahemaa
hotels 298–9 12, 92 National Park) 111, 113
map 108–9 Estonian Song and Dance Festival 39, Pokaiņi Forest 171
restaurants 318–19 50, 55, 82, 107 Rumbula Forest 162
travel 109 Estonian Youth Theatre 27 Tērvete Nature Park 171
Eastern Latvia 186–203 Ethnic mix Franciscan Church (Vilnius) 240
hotels 302–3 Estonia 49–50 Frank Zappa Statue (Vilnius) 242
map 188–9 Latvia 133–4 Freedom Monument (Rīga) 140, 142,
restaurants 324–5 Lithuania 210 154
travel 189 Ethnocosmology Centre (Molėtai) 269 Friary of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Economy The Euro 43, 51, 57, 141, 371 (Tytuvėnai) 278
Estonia 51 Europa Tower (Vilnius) 21 Fruit 311
Latvia 135 Europe Park 253, 258
Lithuania 211 European Union (EU) 43 G
Eisenstein, Mikhail 11, 156, 157 Estonia 49, 51, 57 Gaigalaitė, Nijolė Ona, Jūratė kaj Kastytis
Eisenstein, Sergei 26 Latvia 135, 141 31
Ekesparre Boutique Hotel (Kuressaare) Lithuania 209, 210, 219 Gaiglava 202
88, 298 Evangelical Lutheran Church (Šilutė) 287 Galgaudas family 279, 280
Electrical appliances 367 Galli, Giovanni Maria 247
Elelson, Zalman 155 F Game 310
Elizabetes iela (Rīga) 156–7 Fat Margaret Tower (Tallinn) 61, 65, 71 Gandinga Hill 281
Elizabeth, Empress of Russia 83, 102 Father and Son Statue (Õun) (Tartu) Ganelin Trio 27
Elizabeth II of Great Britain 71 119 Gaon of Vilna 40
Elizabeth’s Church (Pärnu) 102 Fauna see Wildlife Gardie, Pontus de la 74
Elks 23 Feast of the Assumption 131 Garso Galerija (Vilnius) 212
Eller, Heino 66 Feldbergs, Ojars 182 Gates of Dawn (Vilnius) 16, 217, 239
Embassies 365 Ferry travel street-by-street map 234–5
Emergencies 369 Estonia 376, 377, 378, 379 Gauja National Park 131, 133, 186,
Emumägi Hill (Endla Nature Reserve) Latvia 283, 382 190–93
117 Lithuania 389 hotels 302–3
Encephalitis, tick-borne 369 Tallinn–Helsinki ferry 56, 59 itineraries 11, 14
Endla Nature Reserve 117 Festival of Female Choirs and Men’s restaurants 324
Energy Centre (Tallinn) 77 Choruses (Tukums) 175 Gauja river 190, 194
Engels, Friedrich 259 Festivals Gauja Valley 190–93
Engure see Lake Engure Estonia 52–3 Gaveikėnai Waternill (Aukštaitija
Entertainment Latvia 136–7 National Park) 271
booking and prices 344, 348, 352 Lithuania 212–13 Gavelis, Ričardas 26
Estonia 344–7 Film see Cinema Gebhardt, Eduard von 80
information sources 344, 346, 348, Finno-Ugrians 35 Gediminas, Grand Duke 214, 216, 221,
350, 352, 354 Fire Sculptures Festival (Lithuania) 213 230
Latvia 348–51 Fire services 369 death 279
Lithuania 352–5 Fire Tower (Võsu) 112 Fire Sculptures Festival 213
Rīga 350–51 Fire-fighters’ Museum (Ainaži) 194 and the Jews 40
Tallinn 346–7 FIS Nordic World Championships 123 Gelgaudas, Antanas 279
Vilnius 354–5 Fish 310 Gelgaudas Manor (Gelgaudiškis) 280
see also Cinema; Dance; Music; Sport; Fisherman’s Daughters (Šventoji) 286 Gelgaudiškis 280
Theatre Fishing 358, 361 German community
Epiphany 213 Flag, Latvian 193 in Latvia 37, 139
Erratic boulders 22, 114 Flag Museum (Otepää) 122 under Russian rule 38
Estonia 48–127 Flora 23 German crusaders see Teutonic Knights
14 Days in Estonia 10, 12–13 Lahemaa National Park 110 Gielgud, Sir John 280
climate 32–3 Soomaa National Park 105 Giotto, Daniele 232
communications 373 Fluxus 236 Girėnas, Stasys 264
Eastern Estonia 106–27 Folk festivals (Estonia) 345 Glasnost 43
economy 51 Folk legends (Lake Plateliai) 283 Glasremis (Panevėžys) 268
entertainment 344–7 Folk Music Museum (Kaunas) 263 Glass Museum (Līvāni) 198
festivals 52–3 Folk Song Park (Turaida Museum Glaubitz, Jan Krzysztof 226, 233, 237,
getting around 378–9 Reserve) 192 238, 241
history 54–7, 89, 107 Folk songs and music 28–9 Glück, Ernst 25
hotels 296–9 Lithuania 353 Ernst Glück Museum of the Bible
outdoor activities and specialist Vilnius 354, 355 (Alūksne) 203
holidays 356–61 Folklore, amber in 31 Godeliai 282
phrase book 411–12 Folklore Baltica Festival 52, 136 Gods and goddesses, Pagan 24
restaurants 314–19 Food and drink Godunov, Alexander 27
shopping 332–5 Flavours of Estonia, Latvia and Golf 360, 361
society and culture 49–50 Lithuania 310–11 Gomanovics, Vladimirs 154
Tallinn 58–87 shops in Latvia 337 Gorbachev, Mikhail 43, 57, 141, 219
tourism 51 shops in Lithuania 341 Gothic architecture 20
travelling to 376–7 shops in Rīga 339 Graff, Johann Michael 173
Western Estonia 88–105 shops in Tallinn 335 Grand Duchy of Lithuania 36, 214,
Estonian Art Museum (Tallinn) 79, 80 What to drink 312–13 216–17
Estonian Drama Theatre (Tallinn) 76 see also Bars and pubs; Beer; absorbed into Russian Empire 218
Estonian History Museum (Tallinn) 20, Restaurants; Wine Battle of Grünwald 256
64, 82 Football 360 introduction of Christianity 24

398 GENERAL INDEX


Grand Duchy of Lithuania (cont.) Hippocrates 30 International Baltic Ballet Festival (Rīga)
and the Jews 40 Hirte, Valters 195 136
Kernavė 207 Historical Museum (Kriaunos) 268, 269 International Choir Festival (Tallinn) 52
Liškiava 260 Historicist architecture 21 International Festival of Modern Dance
Samogitia 273, 279 History (Kaunas) 213
Great Egg Hill see Suur Munamägi Estonia 54–7 International Folk Music Festival
Great Guild (Rīga) 149 Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania 34–43 (Koknese) 197
Great Guild Hall (Tallinn) 64 Jewish History 40–41 International Ice Sculpture Festival
Great Northern War 37, 139, 192, 197, Latvia 138–41 (Jelgava) 137
268 Lithuania 214–19 Internet 372–5
Peter the Great 83 History and Applied Arts Museum Islam 24
Great Synagogue (Vilnius) 237, 242, 243 (Preiļi) 199 Islands
Green Bridge (Vilnius) 245 History and Art Museum (Jelgava) Aegna Island (Tallinn) 85
Grieving Mother 161 170 Castle Island (Lake Plateliai) 281
Grünwald, Battle of 36, 209, 214, 256, History Museum (Trakai) 257 Hiiumaa Island 89, 94–5
262 History Museum of Latvia (Rīga) 147 Kihnu Island 105
Grūtas Park 259 Hitler, Adolf 219, 284 Mohni Island 113
Grybas, Vincas, Independence Statue Holocaust Memorial (Biķernieki Forest) Muhu Island 89, 95
279 161 Piirissaar Island (Lake Peipsi) 127
Grybauskaitė, Dalia 211 Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 16, 242 Saaremaa Island 89, 96–9
Guardian Angels’ Church (Alytus) 260 Holy Mother of God Church (Vilnius) Vilsandi Island 89, 99
Guesthouses 293, 295 232 Vormsi Island 89, 92, 93
Gulbene, restaurants 324 Holy Spirit Church (Tallinn) 62, 64 Itineraries 10–17
Gulbene-Alūksne Narrow-Gauge Holy Trinity Church (Liepāja) 15, 184 14 Days in Estonia 10, 12–13
Railway 203 Holy Trinity Church (Liškiava) 260 14 Days in Latvia 11, 14–15
Gulf of Finland 110 Horse Museum (Niūronys) 269 14 Days in Lithuania 11, 16–17
Gustav Adolphus of Sweden 102, 118, Horse-riding 358, 361 Ivan the Terrible 37, 84, 192
138, 139, 160 Hospitals 369 Ivanauskaitė, Jurga 26, 211
Gutmana Cave 191 Hostels 293, 295 Ivangorod Castle 108
Hotels 292–307
H booking 292 J
Haanja 125 Central Lithuania 305–6 Jadwiga of Poland 214
Haapsalu 12, 89, 92–3 children in 294 Jakobson, Carl Robert 122
festivals 52 disabled travellers 295 Jāņa Sēta (Rīga) 151
hotels 297 Eastern Estonia 298–9 Jannsen, Johann Valdemār 103
restaurants 316 Eastern Latvia 302–3 Janskola Museum (Vecpiebalga) 203
Tchaikovsky in 93 Estonia 296–9 Järvamaa Museum (Paide) 117
Haapsalu Early Music Festival 52 hidden extras 294 Jasinskis, Jokūbas 215
Handicrafts Latvia 300–303 Jaunmoku Pils (Tukums) 175
Arts and Crafts Fair (Rīga) 136 Lithuania 304–7 Jaunpils Castle 15, 174
Estonia 333 luxury 292 hotels 301
Handicrafts Centre (Ludza) 203 modern 292 Jaunzeme, Inese 140
House of Craftsmen (Liepāja) 184 prices and payment 292 Jazz and blues
Kaziuko Crafts Fair (Vilnius) 212, 236 Rīga 300–301 Latvia 349
Latgale Art and Craft Centre (Līvāni) smoking in 294–5 Lithuania 353
198 Tallinn 296–7 Rīga 350, 351
Latvia 337 tipping 292 Tallinn 346, 347
Lithuania 341 Vilnius 304–5 Vilnius 354, 355
Lithuanian cross-crafting tradition Western Estonia 297–8 Jazzkaar (Estonia) 52
284 Western Latvia 301–2 Jeckeln, Friedrich 148
Rīga 338 Western Lithuania 306–7 Jēkabpils 15, 198
Tallinn 334 House of Blackheads (Rīga) 152 restaurants 324–5
Vilnius 342–3 House of Blackheads (Tallinn) 20, 70 Jelgava 15, 167, 170
Hannibal, Major-General Abram House of Craftsmen (Liepāja) 184 festivals 137
Petrovich 227 House of Signatories (Vilnius) 227 hotels 301
Hanseatic League 36 Hullo 92, 93 restaurants 322
Cēsis 192 Hüpassaare Hiking Trail (Soomaa Jelgava Palace 15, 170, 178–9
Estonia 54 National Park) 105 Jewellery
Kaunas 263 Hurt, Jakob 119 amber 31
Köpu Lighthouse 94 shops in Rīga 338
Latvia 138 I shops in Vilnius 342–3
Limbaži 195 Ice hockey 360 Jews 24
Rīga 143 Ig Nobel Peace Prize 259 Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 242
Tallinn 59 Ignalina 17, 271 Jewish history 40–41
Valmiera 194 Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant 211, Jewish Vilnius 243
Ventspils 180 269 Kalvarija 261
Harilaid Peninsula 99 Ikšķile 196 Karaim of Trakai 257
Health care 369 hotels 303 Latvia 133, 138, 141, 155, 161, 162
Hendrik, Toomas 57 restaurants 324 Lithuania 209, 219, 221
Henry IV of England 258 Iļģi 29 Museum of Jews in Latvia (Rīga) 155
Henry of Livonia 195 Imsrė river 280 Paneriai Holocaust Memorial (Vilnius)
Herb Day (Latvia) 136 Independence 42, 43 41, 248–9
Hiiumaa Island 10, 12, 89, 94–5 Estonia 55, 57 Plungė 281
hotels 297 Latvia 139–40, 141, 146, 154 spread from Lithuania 38
restaurants 316 Lithuania 218–19, 227, 245 State Jewish Museum (Vilnius) 242
Hiiumaa Museum (Kärdla) 94 Independence Statue (Grybas) Vidzgiris Forest 260
Hiiumaa Museum (Kassari) 95 (Raseiniai) 279 Jogaila, Grand Duke 24, 36, 214, 249
Hiking and trekking 357, 361 Indo-Europeans 35 Jõgeveste 122
Hill of Crosses (Jurgaičių village) 17, Ingatsi Bog Trail (Soomaa National John Paul II, Pope 199, 239, 277, 279
277 Park) 104 Jomas Street (Jūrmala) 174
Hill of Crosses (Kärdla) 94 Innocent III, Pope 25, 35 Joninės (St John’s Day) 212
Hill of Three Crosses (Vilnius) 231 Innocent VI, Pope 125 Jōnn, Kihnu 105
Hill of Witches (Curonian Spit) 17, 289 Intas, Dr Vaclovas 281 Jucevičius, Liudvikas Adomas 31