(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Estonia Latvia & Lithuania

RĪGA  149

e Powder Tower/ t Great Guild
Latvian War Lielā Ģilde
Museum Amatu 6. Map 2 D3. Tel 6722 4850.
Pulvertornis/Latvijas kara muzejs
Smilšu 20. Map 2 D3. Tel 6722 8147. Established in the 13th century,
Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; the Great Guild had a monopoly
Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm daily. & on trade in Rīga for centuries.
donations. 8 ∑ karamuzejs.lv The building that served as the
guild’s headquarters was built
The cylindrical Powder Tower is from 1853 to 1860. An old guild
all that remains from a total of chamber displays symbols of
18 towers that were once part Hanseatic cities and the bridal
of the city’s defences. Its chamber was once used by
14th-century foundations are guild members’ children on
among the oldest in the city, Old issue of Lāčplēšis magazine at the their wedding nights. Today,
but the rest of the struc ture Latvian War Museum the building holds concerts by
dates from 1650, being rebuilt the Philharmonic Orchestra.
after it was destroyed by r Cats’ House
the Swedish army in 1621. Kaķu māja y Small Guild
The 2.5-m (8-ft) thick walls
were intended to protect the Meistaru iela 10. Map 2 D3. Mazā Ģilde
gunpowder stored inside, Amatu iela 5. Map 2 D3. Tel 6722
after which the tower was This yellow Art Nouveau building 3772. Open for concerts and confer-
named. Nine Russian cannon- on the corner of Meistaru and ences only. ∑ gilde.lv/maza
balls remain embedded in Amatu streets is a popular image
the walls as proof of the of Rīga for its two feline statues While the Great Guild counted
tower’s strength. on its rooftop. The story goes that the city’s merchants as its mem-
The tower was bought by a before World War I a merchant bers, the less powerful
German student fraternity at who owned the building was Small Guild existed to
the end of the 19th century refused entry to the Great Guild promote the interests of
and in 1919 it housed a because he was Latvian and Rīga’s German arti-
military museum reflecting membership was sans. This guild
on the then-recent fight for reserved for may have been
independence as well as on Germans only. In less prestigious
World War I. The annexe retaliation, he put than its neigh-
building was constructed from two statues of bour, but with its
1937 to 1940, but the Soviet black cats – with turret and spire it is a
occupation meant that it did arched backs and tails Statue on the roof of more attractive
not fulfil its function until up – onto the roof, Cats’ House building. The Italian
several decades later. From positioning them so mosaic floor in the
1957 the tower housed the that their backsides faced the entrance hall is particularly
Museum of the Revolution in guildhall. After a lengthy court noteworthy. The current struc-
the Soviet Republic of Latvia. battle the merchant eventually ture was started between 1864
The current museum, the gained entry into the guild and and 1866, and then completed
Latvian War Museum, occupies turned the cats around. after an interval of 20 years.
both the tower and the
annexe. While the oldest
exhibit – part of a cannon
discovered during the 1930s –
dates from the 15th century,
the museum largely concen-
trates on 20th-century war fare.
World War I is covered with
interesting displays of
weapons, uniforms and
propaganda posters, as well
as items made by the Latvian
Riflemen (see p152). Other
rooms examine the role
of Latvians in the Russian
Revolution, the Latvian War of
Independence, World War II
and the Soviet occupation. Splendid exterior of the Small Guild




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Street-by-Street: Around Town Hall Square

Until a local government reform in 1877, the Town Hall Square
was Rīga’s administrative centre. Built in 1334, the Town Hall
was one of three focuses of power alongside Dome Cathedral
and Rīga Castle, representing the interests of the city’s
residents. The square has functioned as a marketplace and
a site where festivials were held and executions carried out.
The impressive step-gabled House of Blackheads has been
completely rebuilt, while the Town Hall is a modern building
behind a Neo-Classical façade. Out of place at the square’s Locator Map
edge is a Soviet-era building housing the Museum of the See Street Finder Map pp164–5
Occupation of Latvia.








Town Hall






Town Hall Square
Many of the square’s elaborate
buildings, destroyed by German
bombs during World War II, have
benefited from a restoration
project tied to the city’s 800th
anniversary in 2001.



Statue of Roland G R Ē C I N I E K U I E L A
A legendary medieval figure and
one of Charlemagne’s knights,
Roland became a symbol of
the inde pendence of cities
from the local nobility.














i. Museum of the Occupation of Latvia
Covering the Soviet and Nazi occupations of the 20th century, Key
the exhibitions of this museum are housed in the former
US Embassy while the building undergoes reconstruction. Suggested route
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22


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RĪGA  151

















a . St Peter’s Church
This striking building has been destroyed and rebuilt several
times over since its original 13th-century incarnation.
Konventa Sēta
The winding Convent
Courtyard has been
renovated and is now home
to shops, galleries and the
Porcelain Museum (see p153).
0 metres 100
0 yards 100




S K Ā R Ņ U I E L A






St John’s
Church
A
G R Ē C I N I E K U I E L A U I E L


S T A ļ
M Ā R The courtyard of St John’s Church is
Jāņa Sēta
lined with tables and chairs in summer.
Photography Museum



Mentzendorff House





p Mentzendorff House
Dannenstern House This restored late
was the largest 17th-century building is
dwelling in home to a museum of
17th-century Rīga. the merchant class.




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experienced by deportees. The
renovated building will include
a memorial to the victims of
Communist occupation. An
exhibition has been opened in the
former KGB Building at Brīvības 61.

o Latvian Riflemen
Monument
Strēlnieku piemineklis
Strēlnieku laukums. Map 1 C4. 7
Depicting three brooding Latvian
House of Blackheads, set behind Schwab House Riflemen, this contro versial granite
sculpture has stood in the square
u House of until 2016, while renovation work bearing its name since 1970. The
Blackheads was carried out at Rīga Castle Riflemen were a unit of the Russian
(see p147). The city’s main tourist
army, formed to defend their
Melngalvju nams information office can be found homeland against Germany in
in Schwab House. 1915. Radicalized by the heavy
Rātslaukums 7. Map 1 C4. Tel 6704
4300. n Schwab House. Open for losses they suffered during
events only. ∑ melngalvjunams.lv i Museum of fierce fighting, they went on to
support Lenin during the 1917
Together with the adjoining the Occupation Revolution. Some of the Rifle men
Schwab House, the House of of Latvia later returned to Latvia, while
Blackheads is one of Rīga’s most Latvijas okupācijas muzejs others became Lenin’s most
impressive reconstruction trusted troops. Some local people
projects. It was originally built in Strēlnieku laukums 1. Map 1 C4. see the Riflemen as Latvian military
1334 for the city’s guilds, after Tel 6721 1030. Closed for renovations; heroes, while for others they recall
the Livonian Order seized the temporarily housed at Raina the repressive Soviet period.
existing guild buildings. Over bulvaris 7. & donations. 8 =
∑ occupationmuseum.lv
time, the Blackheads, a guild of p Mentzendorff
unmarried foreign merchants,
became the sole occupants. This Soviet-era concrete structure House
Their name derives from their was built to house a museum Mencendorfa nams
patron, St Maurice (who was honouring the Latvian Riflemen,
often depicted as a Moor), and but since 1993 it has provided Grēcinieku 18. Map 2 D4. Tel 6721
they were known for their a sobering account of Latvians’ 2951. Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm
riotous parties. suffering at the hands of Nazi daily; Oct–Apr: 11am–5pm Wed–Sun.
The building’s ground floor Germany in World War II and the & 8 ∑ mencendorfanams.com
housed shops, while the guild- later Soviet occu pation. The col-
hall was on the first floor. The lection includes photographs and Constructed in 1695 as the
step-gabled Dutch Renaissance eye witness accounts of deporta- premises for a glass-cutter, this
façade was added in the late tions and political represssion. The tall building got its current
1500s, the astronomical clock replica of a Gulag barracks room name from a delicatessen based
in 1622, and the Hanseatic offers an insight into the hardship on the ground floor in the early
emblems and the four figures
(Neptune, Mercury, Unity and
Peace) in 1896. Schwab House
was built to complement its
neighbour in 1891.
The Blackheads disbanded
when the Baltic Germans were
asked by Hitler to return home
at the beginning of World War II.
Both buildings were devastated
by bombing in 1941 and the
Soviet autho rities demolished
the rem nants seven years later;
the current structures date from
1999. The building served as a
temporary presidential residence Beautifully restored wall paintings in a room of Mentzendorff House
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22


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RĪGA  153


20th century. Extensively
restored in the 1980s and 90s,
the building is now a museum
devoted to the life of Rīga’s
merchant class in the 17th and
18th centuries. Each room is
decorated in period style. One
highlight is the wall paintings,
influenced by the work of
French artist Antoine Watteau,
depicting the wealthy relaxing.

a St Peter’s Church
Pēterbaznīca
Skārņu 19. Map 2 D4. Tel 6718 1430. Vera Viduka’s 1977 textile at the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. 7
except tower. & for tower for Rīga’s original Livonian Order f St John’s Church
∑ peterbaznica.riga.lv
castle in 1208, and became a Jāņa baznīca
First mentioned in 1209, St Peter’s separate church after the castle
Church was, unlike other was destroyed in 1297. After Jāņa 7. Map 2 D4. Tel 6722 4028.
churches, largely built by the Livs the Reformation it was used as Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat.
5 6:30pm Wed, 10am Sun.
(see p176) and not by foreigners. a warehouse, and traces of
None of the original wooden sacred and profane uses have Built as the cloister chapel for a
church remains, but parts of the been retained in the building. Dominican Order mona stery in
walls date from the 1200s. The The museum gives an over- 1234, St John’s was devas tated
semi-circular apse and its five view of decorative arts from by 15th-century fighting
chapels were built in the 15th the 1890s to the present day. between the Livonian Order
century, while the three Baroque Temporary exhibitions are and the city. Only the main
dolomite entrance portals shown on the ground floor, door and porch remain, with
were added in the late while the first floor, the rest rebuilt in Gothic style,
17th century. The covering the 1890s to including a web-vaulted red-
church, which had the 1960s, is the most brick nave with an apse, choir
become Lutheran in inter esting part of and tower. In 1582, the Polish
1523, was dam aged the main collection. king Stefan Bathory gave the
by fire in 1721, when Highlights include church to the Lutherans, and it
Peter the Great is said painted ceramics from was further expanded in the
to have headed the the Baltars studio and Mannerist style. The interior
failed efforts to rescue it. Lenin plate, carpet designs by includes a Baroque altar
The church’s steeple Porcelain Museum Jūlijs Madernieks. dat ing from 1769 and a
has been rebuilt several painting, Krustā sistais (The
times over. The current one was d Porcelain Crucified, 1912), by Janis
built in 1973. Reaching a height Rozentāls in the sacristy.
of 123 m (403 ft), it provides Museum
excellent views across the city. Rīgas porcelāna muzejs
Kalēju 9/11. Map 2 D4. Tel 6701 2944.
s Museum of Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
∑ porcelanamuzejs.riga.lv
Decorative Arts
and Design Situated in the Convent
Dekoratīvās mākslas un dizaina Courtyard, this museum reflects
the history of porcelain manu-
muzejs
facturing in Latvia, which dates
Skārņu iela 10/20. Map 2 D4. Tel 6722 back to the late 19th century.
2235. Open 11am–5pm Tue & Thu– The 6,000 exhibits include a
Sun; 11am–7pm Wed. & 8 = wide range of dinner services,
∑ lnmm.lv
as well as a huge red-and-gold
vase made to celebrate the
This museum is housed in the city’s 700th anniversary in 1901.
former St George’s Church, Rīga’s Of historic importance is a
oldest surviving stone building. display of vases and sta tues Impressive ceiling and nave of
It was constructed as the chapel portraying Soviet leaders. St John’s Church



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fatherland – as well as Latvian
heroes including Lāčplēšis. It
also bears the motto “Tēvzemei
un brīvībai” (For Fatherland and
Freedom). The slender granite
column is topped by a female
figure, commonly known as
Milda, holding aloft three
golden stars, which represent
the three cultural regions of
Latvia – Kurzeme, Vidzeme and
Latgale. During the Soviet era
the authorities banned people
from laying flowers at the
Boating on the city canal in Bastejkalns park base of the monument and
placed a statue of Lenin a short
g Photography h Bastejkalns distance away.
Museum Basteja bulvāris. Map 2 D3.
Latvijas fotogrāfijas muzejs
Situated next to the Freedom
Mārstaļu iela 8. Map 2 D4. Tel 6722 Monument, this leafy park was
2713. Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm set out in the mid-19th century
Wed & Fri–Sun, noon–7pm Thu; Oct– on the mound of a 17th-century
Apr: 11am–5pm Wed & Fri–Sun, bastion. It is a pleasant place to
noon–7pm Thu. & 8 relax, but it also contains a
∑ fotomuzejs.lv reminder that the path to Latvia’s
independence was not without
This museum traces the dev elop- bloodshed. On the night of
ment of photography in Latvia 20 January 1991, OMON troops –
from 1839 to 1941 through also known as the Black Berets –
displays of photographs and tried to storm barricaded
camera equipment. The images govern ment buildings. Two
also serve to illustrate life in filmmakers (Gvido Zvaigzne
Latvia, depicting events such as and Andris Slapiņš), two militia-
the 1905 Revolution (see p139) men (Sergejs Konoņenko and
and scenes of daily life during the Vladimirs Gomanovics) and a
first period of indepen dence. In schoolboy (Edijs Riekstiņš) were
one room, an early 20th- century killed in the ensuing gunfire in
photo graphic studio has been Bastejkalns. Local people regu-
re-created and in another there is larly renew the flowers on the
a display dedi cated to the Minox, memorial stones which bear The imposing Freedom Monument,
or “spy” camera, inven ted by Rīga- their names, located close to a designed by Kārlis Zāle
born Walter Zapp (1905–2003). small bridge.
More unusual items include k Krišjānis Barons
stereo scopic images and viewers j Freedom
and there is also a gallery that Memorial Museum
holds temporary exhibitions. Monument Krišjāņa Barona memoriālais muzejs
Brīvības piemineklis
Kr Barona iela 3. Map 2 E3. Tel 6728
Brīvības bulvāris. Map 2 D3. 7 4265. Open 11am–6pm Wed–Sun. &
8 = ∑ baronamuzejs.lv
Built in 1935 on a site previously
occupied by a statue of Peter Located in an apartment
the Great, the 42-m (138-ft) tall where the famous folklorist
Freedom Monument is a potent spent the last years of his life,
symbol of Latvian independence. this museum displays photo-
It was designed by the sculptor graphs and documents
Kārlis Zāle, also responsible for relating to Barons’s life and
the ensemble at the Brothers’ work. The most important
Cemetery (see p161). The granite exhibit is the Dainu skapis
base is decorated with reliefs (Cabinet of Latvian Folk Songs),
and statues repre senting four a specially designed chest of
Large plate camera, exhibited at the virtues – work, spiritual life, drawers in which Barons
Photography Museum family and protection of the organized the texts of over
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22


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RĪGA  155


Krišjānis Barons There are, unsurprisingly,
many paintings by Latvia’s best-
In a nation where singing is one known artist Janis Rozentāls (see
of the most important forms of p26) and his works on display
cultural expression, Krišjānis include Leaving the Cemetery
Barons (1835–1923) is perceived (1895), and Portrait of Malvīne
as a hero. Influenced by Krišjānis Vīgnere-Grinberga (1916). Other
Valdemārs (see p195) and part Latvian artists rep resented
of the group of nationalist include Jēkabs Kazaks (1895–
intellectuals known as the Young
Latvians, Barons is known for Krišjānis Barons 1920) and Romāns Suta
systematizing Latvia’s four-line folk (1896–1943), who were
songs (dainas). He did not collect them in person, but by selecting both members of the Rīga
certain songs as central and then listening to the differences Artists’ Group.
between them, he was able to include 217,996 songs in the six-
volume work he published between 1894 and 1915.
x Museum of Jews
in Latvia
350,000 four-line folk songs z Latvian National
sent by thousands of singers Museum of Art Muzejs Ebreji Latvijā
and informants. Each was Skolas iela 6. Map 2 D2. Tel 6728
written according to Barons’s Latvijas Nacionalāis mākslas musejs 3484. Open 11am–5pm Mon–Thu,
instructions on a slip of paper Kr Valdermāra 10a. Map 2 D2. Tel 6732 Sun; Jun–Aug: 11am–5pm Fri. &
the same size as cigarette- 4461. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Thu, donations. ∑ jewishmuseum.lv
paper boxes, which he used for 10am–8pm Fri, 10am–5pm Sat & Sun.
storage before the cabinet was & 8 ∑ lnmm.lv Housed inside a Jewish
built. Contrary to popular community centre, this
belief, not all the slips were The interior of this early museum is based around
rewritten by Barons. 20th-century Neo-Baroque the collec tions of Holocaust
building still has its original gilt survivors Zalman Elelson
l Orthodox and marble embellish ments. and Marğers Vestermanis. It
tells the story of the Jewish
While the collection was
Cathedral originally eclectic, in the 1920s community in Latvia, which
Pareizticīgo katedrāle and 30s the director Vilhelms begins in the 16th century
Purvītis (1872–1945), himself one with the first records of Jews
Brīvības iela 23. Map 2 D3. Tel 6721 of the country’s most famous in the country and progresses
2901. 5 8am, 6pm Mon–Sat; 6:30am, artists, decided to focus on to photo graphs of early 20th-
8:30am, 6pm Sun.
Latvian works. The first floor, century family life. Inevitably,
therefore, traces the develop- though, the focus is on the
Situated on the edge of ment of Latvian art from the mid- horrific years of the Nazi
Esplanade Park (Esplanāde), this 19th century to 1945, while the occupation. The museum does
Neo-Byzantine Russian ground floor displays 18th- and not shy away from distressing
cathedral is officially called the 19th-century Balto-Germanic images of the Holocaust, and
Cathedral of Christ’s Nativity and Russian art. The latter collec- it even includes footage of
(Kristus dzimšanas katedrāle). tion also includes many icons the massacre of Jews on
An attractive struc ture topped from the 16th to 20th centuries. Liepāja beach.
by five domes, it was built from
1876 to 1884 for the city’s
growing Russian community
and was part of a deliberate
process of Russification. It
became a Lutheran church
during the brief German
occupation of Rīga in World War I,
and once again an Orthodox
church in 1921.
As with many places of
worship, the Soviet authorities
found alternative uses for the
building during their occupa-
tion. In the 1960s they turned it
into a lecture hall and pla net-
arium. The interior decora tions
were nearly destroyed, and are
still being replaced. The elaborate domed roof of the Orthodox Cathedral




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c Pauls Stradiņš
Museum of the Art Nouveau Architecture
History of Medicine
Paula Stradiņa medicīnas vēstures Rīga’s collection of Art Nouveau buildings has been
muzejs recognized by UNESCO as unparalleled anywhere in the
world, with most found in the Quiet Centre (Klusais Centrs).
Antonijas iela 1. Map 2 D2. Tel 6722 Many of the early examples – dating from the turn of the
2665. @ 2, 24. Trolleybus 1, 19.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sat (to 7pm 20th century – are categorized as eclectic Art Nouveau,
Thu). Closed last Fri of the month. making use of asymmetry, symbolic ornamentation and
& 8 ∑ mvm.lv details drawn from nature. Two other Art Nouveau styles
found here are perpendicular, which placed emphasis on
Opened in 1961, this museum vertical composition, and National Romanticism, which
is based around the collection
of cancer specialist Dr Pauls incor porated folk motifs and the use of natural materials.
Stradiņš and is one of the
world’s three biggest medical
museums. Its aim is to explore
the history of medi cine in
relation to scientific develop-
ment. Ancient uses of
medicinal herbs, trepanning M E DN IE KU IE LA
(the oldest known surgery,
which involves making a hole
in the patient’s skull) and
Soviet developments in space AL B E R TA I E L A
biology and medicine are w Elizabetes iela 13
covered. The oddest exhi bit is Less ornately decorated than RŪ PN I EZ Ī B AS I EL A P U L K V E Ž A B R I E Ž A S T R Ē L N I E K U I E L A
a stuffed two-headed dog, others in the area, and V Ī LAND ES I E LA
which was the result of judicious in its use of space,
experimental grafting. the façade of this building A U S E K Ļ A I E L A A N T O N I J A S I E L A
illustrates the principle of amor
vacui (love of space).
v Art Nouveau E LI Z A BE TE S I E L A E L IZ AB E TE S I E LA E L IZ AB E T E S I E LA
Museum
Jügendstila muzejs A PUMPURA
Albert iela 12. Map 2 D2. Tel 6718
1464. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
& 8 ∑ jugendstils.riga.lv
This museum celebrates the Art
Nouveau movement for which
Rīga is most famous. It is located
in the former apartment of the
building’s architect, Konstantīns
Pekšēns (1859–1928), who lived
here around 1900.
Before you enter the apart- 9 Strēlnieku iela 4a
ment, note the elaborately Symbols of victory adorn this eclectic Art Nouveau edifice, including
decorated balconies and corner maidens clutching wreaths and bald eagles. The building, designed by
tower. Once indoors, it is worth Mikhail Eisenstein, now houses a private school.
climbing the staircase to the
fifth floor in order to view the
paintings that adorn the
ceilings. The interior is furnished q Strēlnieku iela 2
throughout as it would have An example of perpendicular
been during the time when Art Nouveau, the architectural
Pekšēns lived here, although design of this building is
few of the items are original. relatively restrained, with
Visitors are guided by staff in ornamental details integrated
period costume, and there is a into the structure, including
short film about Art Nouveau carvings of grain at the top.
buildings in Rīga.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22


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0 Elizabetes iela 23
This building has anthropomorphic
carvings and a pediment with the
words “Labor vinvit omnia” (Work 4 Alberta iela 4
conquers all), which commemo­ 8Alberta iela 13 Lions are uncommon in Art
rates architect Mārtiņš Nukša. The numerous female Nouveau, but in this eclectic
figures on this building building their wings indicate
M E DN IE KU IE LA display a range their traditional connection
with the sun.
of emotions.
0 metres 100
100
S T R Ē L N I E K U I E L A
0 yards
AL B E R TA I E L A
A N T O N I J A S I E L A
RŪ PN I EZ Ī B AS I EL A
P U L K V E Ž A B R I E Ž A
V Ī LAND ES I E LA
E LI Z ABE TES I E L A E L IZ AB E TE S I ELA E L IZ AB E T E S I E LA
A U S E K Ļ A I E L A
Key List of Sites A PUMPURA
1 Elizabetes iela 10b 2 Elizabetes iela 33
2 Elizabetes iela 33 8 Alberta iela 13 This early experiment with Art
3 Alberta iela 2a 9 Strēlnieku iela 4a Nouveau by Mikhail Eisenstein, one
4 Alberta iela 4 0 Elizabetes iela 23 of the foremost proponents of the
5 Alberta iela 8 q Strēlnieku iela 2 eclectic style, draws upon
6 Alberta iela 11 w Elizabetes iela 13 Historicist architecture.
7 Alberta iela 12 e Vīlandes iela 2
Elsewhere in the City
Although the Quiet Centre includes
some of Rīga’s finest examples of
Art Nouveau, there are many other
buildings worth visiting else where in
the city. Examples in the Old Town
include Kalēju iela 23, with its tree­
shaped portal, and the city’s oldest
Art Nouveau building at Audēju
iela 7. There are excellent examples of
National Romanticism at Tērbatas iela
15/17 and A Čaka iela 26, and many
6 Alberta iela 11 impressive buildings on Brīvības iela
A fine example of National and Hamburgas iela. Art Nouveau
Romanticism, this building, cons­ in Rīga (Silvija Grosa, published by Brightly coloured façade,
tructed in natural stone, has bay Jumava) has good walks of the city. Kalēju iela 23
windows resembling turrets.





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Further Afield Sights at a Glance
1 Moscow Suburb
Although primarily residential, Rīga’s suburbs include numerous 2 Central Market
places of interest for visitors. The Moscow Suburb, southeast of 3 Left Bank
the Old Town, has long been home to immigrant communities, 4 Botanical Gardens
including many Jews before World War II. In contrast, the 5 Aviation Museum
exclusive Mežaparks to the north was built for wealthy Baltic 6 Dauderi
Germans. Across the Daugava river is the Left Bank, where old 7 Mežaparks
wooden buildings and a variety of museums can be found. 8 Rīga’s Cemeteries
9 Biķernieki Forest
0 Motor Museum
0 km 5 Garkalne q Salaspils
A1 •
0 miles 5 w Rumbula Forest
e Vecāķi
r Latvian Ethnographic
A2
Kīšezers A4 Open-Air Museum
Key
Priedaįne Central Rīga
• •
Ūlupji Motorway
•
Ulbroka
Rīga Main road
International
Airport Minor road
Railway
Marupe A4
•
A8 Daugava A6
A5
Salaspils balcony on the 17th floor is
open to the public.
1 Moscow Suburb building with Jewish families E Rīga Ghetto Museum
Maskavas forštate and burned it to the ground. Maskavas 14a. Tel 6727 0827.
The memorial includes the Open 10am–6pm Sun–Fri. ∑ rgm.lv
@ A18, T15. v 3, 7, 9. names of the 270 Latvians T Choral Synagogue Ruins
known to have rescued Jews Corner of Gogoļa & Dzirnavu iela.
The area to the east of the during the war and the image
Central Market has long been of Žanis Lipke, who, with his R Russian Orthodox Church of
known as the Moscow Suburb, wife Johanna, saved more than the Annunciation
for the road to Moscow ran 50 lives. Gogoļa iela 9. Tel 6722 0566.
through it and many of its Other religious buildings in R Church of Jesus
inhabitants were impoverished the area include the small and Elijas iela 18. Tel 6722 4123.
Russians. They were joined by atmospheric Russian Orthodox 5 6pm Thu, 10am Sun.
Jews – who had previously Church of the Annunciation P Academy of Sciences
been banned from settling in (Tserkva blagoveshtenya) and Akadēmijas laukums 1. Tel 2008 8097.
the city – in the second half of the domed Grebenshchikov Balcony Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm
the 19th century. When the Church (Grebenščikova baznīca) daily. &
German army arrived in 1941, where Old Believers (see p126)
they established a Jewish worship. The dis tinctive
ghetto in the suburb, bounded octagonal Lutheran Church
by Kalna, Lauvas, Ebreju, Jersikas of Jesus (Jēzus baznīca), the
and Daugavpils streets. largest wooden church in the
Still home to many non- city, is also worth visiting.
Latvians today, it is a quiet area The Academy of Sciences
with cobbled side-streets and (Latvijas zinātņu akadēmija) is
numerous wooden and a more controversial land mark.
religious buildings. The nearby Rīga’s first skyscraper, it was built
Rīga Ghetto Museum attempts between 1953 and 1957 in a
to depict life inside the Jewish pseudo-Baroque style which
ghetto, with barbed-wire fences, earned it the nick name “Stalin’s
original cobblestones and other Birthday Cake”. The ornamenta-
artifacts. A memorial was tion includes both Latvian folk
unveiled at the Choral imagery and hammer-and-
Synagogue Ruins on 4 July sickle motifs, and while parts of
2007, exactly 66 years after it are in need of repair it remains Academy of Sciences, nicknamed “Stalin’s
German soldiers had filled the an impressive structure. The Birthday Cake”
For keys to symbols see back flap

158-159_RigaCat6.indd 158 15/02/17 10:15 am

RĪGA  159


Gunnar Birkerts, houses the
National Library of Latvia. Its
unusual, sloping shape sym-
bolizes a mythic castle said to
have sunk into an ancient lake
only to re-emerge once Latvians
were masters of their own land.
Opened in 2014, the library hosts
exhibitions and cultural events.
E Railway Museum
2–4 Uzvaras bulvāris. Tel 6723 2849.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (to 6pm
Thu). & ∑ railwaymuseum.lv
E Castle of Light
Mūkusalas iela 3. Tel 6780 6135.
Well-maintained locomotives on show at the Railway Museum, Left Bank Open 9am–8pm Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm
Sat & Sun. ∑ lnb.lv
2 Central Market and some of the country’s best
Centrāltirgus wooden architecture, found in 4 Botanical
Āgenskalns district.
Centrāltirgus 1. Open 8am–5pm daily. Just across the Stone Bridge Gardens
^ ∑ centraltirgus.lv (Akmens tilts) is the city’s Railway Botāniskais dārzs
Museum (Latvijas dzelzceļa
Housed in five Zeppelin hangars, muzejs), the highlight of which is Kandavas iela 2. Tel 6745 0852. v 5
Rīga’s Central Market is one of the collection of rolling stock in to Konsula iela. Open Apr–Jun: 9am–
the most distinctive in Europe. the yard outside. Exhibits housed 7pm; Jul–Aug 10am–9pm; Sep–Mar:
The hangars, which the German inside a renovated engine 9am–4:30pm. & 8 in English,
Russian or German by arrangement.
Kaiser’s army had abandoned in warehouse include photographs 7 ∑ botanika.lu.lv
Kurzeme during World War I, were of Latvian stations, old tickets and
moved to their current site during posters, railway staff uniforms Founded in 1922 as part of the
the 1920s. The market building and signalling equipment. University of Latvia, the Botanical
sells mostly fresh food, while the Close by is Victory Park Gardens have been in their
area around it is crammed with (Uzvaras parks), named for current location since 1926. The
stalls selling other goods. the Red Army’s victory over site includes 5,400 species of
the Nazis, which was depicted plants, with appro ximately 400
by the Soviet regime as a of them native to Latvia; many
3 Left Bank “liberation” of the city. The war of them are rare or endangered.
Pārdaugava memorial depicting soldiers In the centre of the garden is a
being greeted by a welcoming complex of five greenhouses,
@ A8, T9. v 2, 4, 5, 10. figure of Victory is controversial including a palm house, a
and Latvian nationalists have large collection of ferns, and a
Although most sites of interest twice tried to blow it up. greenhouse devoted to cacti and
lie on the right bank of the The massive Castle of Light other succulents. The gardens
Daugava river, the Left Bank (Gaismas pils), designed by are particularly attractive from
includes specialist museums Latvian-American architect spring through to summer.

















Greenhouse set amid the lush grounds of Rīga’s Botanical Gardens
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22


158-159_RigaCat6.indd 159 15/02/17 10:15 am

160  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

5 Aviation Museum
Aviācijas muzejs
Rīga Airport. Tel 2686 2707.
Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri, Sat & Sun
by arrangement. & 8 - =
∑ aviamuseum.org
Located just beside Rīga’s
airport, this private open-air
museum claims to have the
largest collection of Soviet
air craft outside the Common-
wealth of Independent States.
The impressive array of aero-
planes and helicopters is the
legacy of the Young Pilot’s Neo-Gothic façade of Dauderi mansion dating from the 19th century
Club, an organization founded
in 1956 which was granted periods of time. The Soviet army whom later returned to Germany
used military aircraft for later occupied the building, at the beginning of World War II.
training purposes. After the and in turn the Germans placed During the war a concentration
break-up of the Soviet Union, anti-aircraft guns in the grounds. camp was set up in the area by
funding dried up, but in 1998 The mansion has also been the Nazis, housing Jews brought
the equipment was moved used as a kinder garten and as from liquidated ghettos across
onto airport territory. In tasting rooms for the Ministry Eastern Europe. The camp was
addition to the aircraft, both of Food. closed when the Red Army
military and civilian, there is Now converted into a invaded in 1944 and nothing
a small exhibition of uniforms museum, the rooms are remains of it today. During the
and other equip ment. Opening decorated and furnished Soviet period many of the
hours can be erratic so visitors in the style of the suburb’s buildings fell
should call ahead. 1920s and 30s. There into disrepair. Since
are displays dedi- independence,
cated to the life however, property
of Ulmanis, the prices in Mežaparks
nation’s first period have risen, and the
of independence area is now predo-
and the cultural minantly Latvian
activities of Latvian with a significant
exiles during World Cherubs decorating the ceiling number of foreign
War II and the of Dauderi mansion owners including
subsequent Soviet several embassies.
occupation. The collection Some of the new residents are
is eclectic and includes building homes which are
photographs, medals, puppets grand, if not always tasteful,
and folk costumes. The mansion while others are restoring older
is surrounded by a park buildings. The area is fascinating
containing sculptures and to walk around for its mix of
artificial ruins. contemporary, Modernist and
M16 airplane, on show at the Art Nouveau buildings, with
Aviation Museum Hamburgas Street a particular
7 Mežaparks highlight of the area.
Another reason to visit
6 Dauderi v 11. the area is Rīga Zoo (Rīgas
Previously called Kaiserwald zooloğiskais dārzs), a well-
Sarkandaugavas iela 30. Tel 6739
1780, 6739 2229. v 5 or 9 to Aldaris. (German for “Emperor’s Forest”) maintained site which is popular
Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. & in reference to its use as a base with families. It is known for its
∑ history-museum.lv by the invading Swedish king bears and has an excellent
Gustav Adolphus in the 17th tropical house, although the
This late 19th-century Neo- century, this part of northeast zoo’s star attraction is a pair of
Gothic mansion, 6 km (4 miles) Rīga became Europe’s first rare Amur tigers. Rides in a
from Rīga’s city centre, was the garden city in the early 20th horse-drawn carriage are
summer resi dence of Latvian century. Renamed Mežaparks, available during the summer,
president Kārlis Ulmanis from mean ing “Forest Park”, it was and special events take place
1937 to 1940, although he only designed as a suburb for throughout the year, including
ever stayed here for short wealthy Baltic Germans, most of the weighing of the zoo’s
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22


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RĪGA  161


tortoises in June, and Wolves’ districts as well as soil from every 9 Biķernieki Forest
Day in September. pagasts (parish). Biķernieku mežs
Close to the zoo is the Song The Rainis Cemetery (Raiņa
Stadium (Mežaparka estrāde), kapi) existed before the writer @ A16, T14.
which was built to host the and atheist Janis Pliekšāns,
National Song Festival, held known as Rainis, was buried This site was chosen by the
every five years. With the finale there in 1929, but it was Nazis for the execution and
including more than 10,000 renamed in his honour. His burial of around 40,000 Jews
singers on stage at one time, memorial allegorically depicts a and other “undesirables” brought
the stadium is built on a very youthful Latvia awakening from from Germany and several
large scale. its slumber. Rainis’s wife Elza occupied European countries
Rozenberga, who wrote under between 1941 and 1944. The
O Rīga Zoo the name Aspazija, lies beside memorial is the most moving of
Meža prospekts 1. Tel 6751 8409. him, and many other those in the Rīga area. A path
Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Latvian artists and leads from Biķernieku Street
Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm daily. & 8 musicians have also been under a white concrete
∑ rigazoo.lv buried here. arch, revealing a field of
The Woodlands jagged stones huddled
Cemetery (Meža kapi) together into sections,
8 Rīga’s Cemeteries opened in 1913 and is the each representing a city
burial place for many from which Jews were
Aizsaules iela. @ A9. v 11.
Open daily. political figures from deported. The centre-
Latvia’s first period of piece is a concrete
Rīga’s three most interesting independence. It was canopy under which a
cemeteries are located just south intended that the main black stone stands,
of Mežaparks along Aizsaules alley would lead with an inscription
Street. The grandest is the straight to the Mother Latvia statue, reading “O earth,
Brothers’ Cemetery (Brāļu kapi), memorial to Latvia’s first Brothers’ Cemetery cover not thou my
built for Latvians who died president, Janis Čakste blood, and let my cry
defending their country during (1859–1927), but during the have no place” (Job 16:18).
World War I and the War of Soviet era smaller gravestones Further smaller memorials
Independence. The best-known were put in the way. Janis nearby mark mass graves. The
sculptures are three patriotic Rozentāls (see p26) was also laid site can be reached on foot
works by Kārlis Zāle: Two Brothers, to rest at the site, while the most from the Motor Museum (see
The Wounded Horseman and famous sculpture is the Grieving p162) although the route is not
Mother Latvia. The memorial Mother, which marks the signposted; the trolleybus stop
features the 19 coats of arms of suspicious death of the nation’s is about 1 km (half a mile) from
the Latvian administrative foreign minister in 1925. the memorial.


























Evocative jagged stones of the Holocaust Memorial, Biķernieki Forest




160-161_RigaCat.indd 161 15/02/17 10:15 am

162  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION


several occupied count ries 1941. The victims, mostly
after Rīga’s main ghetto was women, children and the
closed. The number of people elderly from the Rīga ghetto,
who died in the camp is were shot and their bodies
disputed as the Soviet regime dumped in five mass graves.
subsequently exag gerated the Just three people are known to
figures as a propaganda tool, have survived. The location of
but it is thought that hundreds the killings came to light after
were either killed directly or the war, when two local people
died as a result of the camp’s tried to sell jewellery found in
harsh conditions. the area.
The entrance to the camp Until the late 1980s, the
is marked by a long, sloping memorials identified the dead
concrete block placed at an as Soviet citizens, although
angle to the ground, intended members of the Jewish com-
to symbolize the boundary munity illegally tended the site
Auto Union V16 racing car on display at the between life and death. The text and were eventually allowed to
Motor Museum on the block reads “Behind this add a modest stone bearing
gate the earth groans” – a line Hebrew text. The focal point of
0 Motor Museum from a poem by Eižens Vēveris, the memorial, constructed in
Rīgas motormuzejs who was a prisoner at camp. 2002, is a large menorah (seven-
Inside the block is a small branched candlestick),
S Eizenšteina 6. Tel 6702 5888. @ 5, exhibition which, like the surrounded by broken stones,
15; minibus 207, 263. Open 10am– rest of the site, has a each of which is inscribed with
6pm daily. & 8 in English or rather neglected air. the names of a murdered family.
Russian. - = Beyond this, the shape
∑ motormuzejs.lv
of the camp has been e Vecāķi
Row after row of gleaming indicated, and a metro-
cars, motorcycles and nome ticks inside a block 15 km (9 miles) NE of central Rīga. £
bicycles are housed in this of stone – its slow beat @ A24.
modern, hangar-like building. seemingly coming from
There are over 240 vehicles deep inside the earth. This stretch of coast is a popular
in total – both Latvian-made Sculpture Dominating the site is a escape from the city during
and foreign. The highlight is at Salaspils series of huge sculptures summer, although its beach is
a series taken from the erected in 1967, with rarely crowded. At the eastern
Kremlin’s collection. The titles such as The Humiliated end there is an area reserved for
former Soviet president Leonid and The Unbroken. naturists. It is worth walking west
Brezhnev, in particular, was a along the coast, towards the
motor enthusiast and one of the mouth of the Daugava river, to
exhibits is a 1966 Rolls Royce w Rumbula Forest see the remains of fortifications
Silver Shadow which he crashed Rumbulas mežs built to protect what was one of
in Moscow – a startled-looking Europe’s biggest ports. Many
waxwork sits behind the wheel. 11 km (7 miles) from central Rīga, of the bunkers date from the
There is also a heavy armoured along Maskavas iela. £ time of the Napoleonic Wars,
ZIS 115S limousine used by Stalin. but were last used during
Small panels give background At least 25,000 Jews were World War I. The fortifications
information on the vehicles and murdered in Rumbula Forest on have not been well main tained,
tell the story of the automotive 30 November and 8 December so exercise caution.
industry in Latvia. The museum
shop sells model cars.

q Salaspils
15 km (9 miles) SE of central Rīga.
£ Dārziņi. ∑ salaspils.lv
Although its history stretches
back to the 12th century,
Salaspils is notorious as the
location of a World War II
German concentration camp.
Its original inmates were
prisoners of war, but they were
joined by Jews brought from Vast sandy coastline of Vecāķi, northeast of central Rīga
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22


162-163_RigaCaTC8SS.indd 162 15/02/17 10:15 am

RĪGA  163

r Latvian Ethnographic VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Open-Air Museum Practical Information
Latvijas Etnogrāfiskais brīvdabas muzejs Brīvības gatve 440. Tel 6799 4510.
Open 10am–5pm daily. & 8
Occupying 86 ha (213 acres) of woodland on the shores of 5 10am Sun. -
Lake Jugla, this site includes over 118 homesteads, churches, ∑ brivdabasmuzejs.lv
windmills and other structures from across Latvia. Founded Transport
in 1924, the museum is organized according to Latvia’s ethno- @ 1.
graphic regions – Vidzeme, Kurzeme, Zemgale and Latgale –
drawing attention to variations in building design and living
arrangements in different parts of the country. With craftspeople
working on-site during the summer, and many buildings
containing every day artifacts, the museum offers an insight
into 19th-century rural life and takes at least 2 hours to explore.

Vidzeme Spinning Dutch Windmill
Wheel-Maker’s Homestead The windmill (1890) is from
Latgale and can operate two
grindstones simultaneously.




. Kurzeme Peasants’
Homestead
This wooden building with a
reed-thatched roof is typical of
19th-century rural architecture
in southwest Kurzeme.

Zemgale Peasants’
Homestead
includes a dwelling-
house, a bath-house,
granaries and a
threshing barn.
Handicrafts
Handicraft displays
include tradi tional
wickerwork.



Kurzeme
Fishermen’s
Village
Entrance


. Usma Church
Most wooden
churches were Old Believers’ House
replaced by stone Located in a Latgale village, the
buildings in the 19th house exhibits a loom for
century, making this a weaving thread and a samo var
rare survivor. used to boil water for tea.




162-163_RigaCaTC8SS.indd 163 15/02/17 10:15 am

SKANSTES IELA
TOMSONA IELA
VESETAS IELA
Key SKANSTES IELA GROSTONAS IELA GROSTONAS IELA VESETAS IELA TOMSONA IELA PALĪDZĪBAS IELA TALLINAS IELA
VIESTURA
Place of Interest VIESTURA
TALLINAS IELA
PALĪDZĪBAS IELA
PARK PARK
Other sight S P O R TA
A BRIĀNA IELA
Railway station HANZAS IEL A ZAUBES IELA A BRIĀNA IELA MIERA IELA MIERA IELA
S P O R TA
HANZAS IEL A
ZAUBES IELA
Tram stop PULKVEŽA BRIEŽA PULKVEŽA BRIEŽA
KRIŠJĀŅA VALDEMĀRA IELA
VESETAS IELA I E L A
Ferry port HANZAS IELA VESETAS IELA I E L A Hospital IELA IELA
EKSPORTA IELA
EKSPORTA IELA
Hospital
Bus station VIDUS IELA E E ARTILĒRIJAS IELA
VIDUS IELA
BRĪVĪBAS
HANZAS IELA
STRĒLNIEKU IELA
Tourist information RŪPNIECĪBAS IELA RŪPNIECĪBAS IELA BRĪVĪBAS
ARTILĒRIJAS IELA
MEDNIEKU IELA
Hospital AUSEKĻA IELA AUSEKĻA IELA MEDNIEKU IELA STRĒLNIEKU IELA MELNGAIĻA KRIŠJĀŅA VALDEMĀRA IELA BRUŅINIEKU IELA
Dailes Theatre
MELNGAIĻA
TĒRBATAS IELA
ANTONIJAS IELA
Church Andrejosta VĪLANDES IELA VĪLANDES IELA Art Nouv IELA IELA Dailes Theatre
Art Nouveaueau
Museum
BRUŅINIEKU IELA
Railway Museum ZAĻĀ IELA ZAĻĀ IELA STABU IELA TĒRBATAS IELA
STABU IELA
Andrejosta
Pedestrian street ELIZABETES ANTONIJAS IELA
K BARONA IELA
ELIZABETES IELA
IELA ĢERTRŪDES St Ģertrūdes MATĪSA
IELA
IELA
St Ģertrūdes
SKOLAS IELA
ĢERTRŪDES Church
MATĪSA
Pauls Stradiņš Museum DZIRNAVU IELA SKOLAS IELA Church K BARONA IELA
Pauls Stradiņš Museum
KRONVALDA
of History of Medicine
Scale of Map K R O N V A L D A B U KRONVALDA of History of Medicine LĀČPLĒŠA IELA IELA IELA
PARK
PARK
J ALUNĀNA IELA
DZIRNAVU IELA
0 metres 400 EKSPORTA EKSPORTA K R O N V A L D A B U LV Ā R I S KALPAKA BULVĀRIS J ALUNĀNA IELA IELA
BRĪVĪBAS
LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
Museum of Jewsews
IELA
0 yards 400 Latvian Museum of J in Latvia Alexander STABU
in Latvia
Latvian
Alexander
National BRĪVĪBAS ĢERTRŪDES IELA
National
STABU
MIĶEĻA IELA Museum of Nevsky Nevsky BRUŅINIEKU IELA
Museum of ArtArt
Church
Church of Church
Church of
KALPAKA BULVĀRIS
Peter and Paul MIĶEĻA IELA LV Ā R I S
Peter and Paul
ESPLANĀDE IELA IELA
ESPLANĀDE
ĢERTRŪDES IELA
BRUŅINIEKU IELA
BRĪVĪBAS BULVĀRIS
Orthodo
Orthodoxx
National
National IELA IELA KALPAKA BULVĀRIS Cathedralal BLAUMAŅA IELA LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
Cathedr
BALASTA
BALASTA
IELA
IELA
Theatre
IELA CITADELES IELA IELA Theatre DZIRNAVU IELA Baptist Baptist
K BARONA IELA
BLAUMAŅA IELA
Church
LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
Rīga Technical
Rīga Technical DAMBIS DAMBIS BRĪVĪBAS BULVĀRIS Church
VALDEMĀRA
MUITAS
ĶĪPSALAS IELA
ĶĪPSALAS IELA
KALPAKA BULVĀRIS
University MUITAS VALDEMĀRA Z A MEIEROVICA BLVD TĒRBATAS IELA ELIZABETES K BARONA IELA
University
TĒRBATAS IELA
CITADELES IELA
Pilsetas kanāl s
Pilsetas kanāl s
DZIRNAVU IELA
A ČAKA IELA
K K Museum of JĒKABA IELA JĒKABA IELA Swedish BASTEJKALNS RAIŅA BULVĀRIS VĒRMANES Krišjānis Bar Ģ E R T R Ū D E S
Freedom
Freedom
Z A MEIEROVICA BLVD St Jacob’sSt Jacob’s
Arsenal
Arsenal Swedish
Monument
VĒRMANES
Monument
Krišjānis Baronsons
ELIZABETES
Barracks
Barracks
Museum of ArtArt
VANŠU BRIDGE
Gate
Gate
VANŠU BRIDGE Castle Castle Parliament St Jacob’ TORŅA IELA Latvian MERĶEĻA IELA PARK PARK IELA IELA Puppet Puppet A ČAKA IELA IELA IELA
Memorial Museum ial Museum
Memor
TORŅA IELA Powder Tower/Powder Tower/
Rīga
RīgaParliament
Latvian War War
St Jacob’ss
Ģ E R T R Ū D E S
Theatre
Theatre
Museum
Museum
MERĶEĻA IELA I E L A
Cathedral
Three
Latvian
ĀZENES IELA POĻU POĻU Brothers Three Cathedral M SMILŠU IELA University Latvian AVOTU IELA AVOTU I E L A
ĀZENES IELA
BASTEJKALNS RAIŅA BULVĀRIS
AVOTU IELA
National
National
University
Brothers Art Museum
Art Museum
M SMILŠU IELA
AVOTU I E L A
Library
Riga Boursese
of Latvia
Olympia
Olympia GĀTE GĀTE PILS IELA Riga Bour ZIRGU ZIRGU VAĻŅU of Latvia Library
Opera House A R O N A
MARIJAS IELA
PILS IELA
Centre Centre IELA IELA St Saviour’ MIESNIEKU MIESNIEKU DOMA DOMA IELA IELA Cats’ House National K B A R O N A I E L A
Great Guild
St Saviour’s Churchs Church
Cats’ House IEL
VALDEMĀRA
VALDEMĀRA D D Cathedr Dome LAUKUMS ŠĶŪŅU IELA Small Small Opera House K B MARIJAS IELA E BIRZNIEKA-UPĪŠA IELA LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
National
Great Guild A
VAĻŅU IELA
E BIRZNIEKA-UPĪŠA IELA
KAĻĶU IELA
KAĻĶU IELA
Dome
Barricades
Cathedralal
Guild
Barricades Guild
Museum
Museum
LAUKUMS ŠĶŪŅU IELA
Museum of
Museum of Decorative ative
Museum of
K K a a Rīga’s Histor Museum of Decor VISVALŽA
Arts and Design
Arts and Design
Rīga’s Historyy
and Na Porcelain IELA IELA
and Navigation vigation
u
u
Porcelain
S AT E K L E S I EL A
11 N OVEMBRA KRASTMALA
11 N OVEMBRA KRASTMALA
Rīga Town Hall KUNGU IELA AUDĒJ U IELA ASPAZIJAS BULVĀRIS
g g SKĀ RŅU IELA St John’s S AT E K L E S I EL A
Museum
Museum
LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
VISVALŽA
a
St Peter’s
BALASTA DAMBIS a a Museum of the Occupation of Latvia GRĒCINIEKU IELA Photog Photographyraphy VAĻŅU IELA VAĻŅU IELA Central Station SATEKLES IELA
BALASTA DAMBIS
St Peter’s
a
St John’s
AUDĒJ U IELA
SKĀ RŅU IELA
House of Blackheads
Church
Church
House of Blackheads
Church
v
v
Church
SATEKLES IELA
Museum of the Occupation of Latvia
GRĒCINIEKU IELA
Rīga
Rīga
Latvian Riflemenlemen
Latvian Rif
13 JANVĀRA IELA
13 JANVĀRA IELA
Āgenskalna Līcis
Rīga Town Hall KUNGU IELA
Menzendorff
Menzendorff
Central Station
ASPAZIJAS BULVĀRIS
Monument
Monument
Museum
MĀRSTAĻU IELAMuseum
MĀRSTAĻU IELA
House
House
KALĒJ U IELA
AKMENS BRIDGE
MINSTEREJAS
Rīga Rīga Āgenskalna Līcis MINSTEREJAS IELA KALĒJ U IELA IELA IELA
IELA
Technical
Technical DAUGAVGRĪVAS IELA ABRENE S ABRENE S
University AKMENS BRIDGE Bus Bus S S KATOĻU IELA KATOĻU IELA
DAUGAVGRĪV
C ENTRĀLTIRG U
(RTU) (RTU) IELA IELA Station Station U IELA IELA
IELA
MEŽA IELA KUĞU KUĞU G O G O Ļ A I E L A Church of the IELA IELA KRĀSLAVAS IELA KRĀSLAVAS IELA
MEŽA IELA
SPĪĶERU IELA
IELA
Church of the
UniversityAS IELA
IELA IELA C ENTRĀLTIRG Central PŪPOLU SPĪĶERU PŪPOLU IELA Annunciation DZIRNAVU IELA
Annunciation
Central
GAIZIŅA
GAIZIŅA
Market
Market
TRIJĀDĪBAS
TRIJĀDĪBAS VALGUMA M ASKAVAS IELA PRĀGAS IELA Sciences Ruins Choral IELA IELA JĒKABPILS IELA
G O G O Ļ A I E L A
JĒKABPILS IELA
Academy of Choral
PRĀGAS IELA Academy of
STARAJA RUSAS IELA
STARAJA RUSAS IELA
TURGEŅEVA IELA
Sciences Synagogue
Synagogue
DZIRNAVU IELA
Ruins
VALGUMA
Church
PUŠKINA IELA Church
M ASKAVAS IELA
IELA
IELA
ELIJAS IELA of Jesus
Riga Ghetto TURGEŅEVA IELA PUŠKINA IELA ELIJAS IELA of Jesus GOGOĻA IE LA S A S ADO VŅI KOVA
Riga Ghetto
DZIRNAVU IELA
Museum
Museum
UZVARAS BULVĀRIS Railway MA S K AVAS IELA
UZVARAS BULVĀRIS
JĒZUS BAZNĪCAS IELA
IELA
SLOKAS
SLOKAS
GOGOĻA IE LA DO VŅI KOVA
KUĞU IELA
KUĞU IELA
RAŅĶA DAMBIS
IELA IELA IELA K R A S TA I E L A JĒZUS BAZNĪCAS IELA DZIRNAVU IELA STRŪGU IELA STRŪGU IELA LĀČPLĒŠA LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
IELA
RAŅĶA DAMBIS
Railway
VALGUMA
VALGUMA
K R A S TA I E L A
Museum
Museum
ELIJAS IELA
ELIJAS IELA
IELA
MA S K AVAS IELA
IELA
UZV UZVARASARAS AKMEŅU AKMEŅU
PARK PARK Daugav a Mazā PIRTS IELA
Kīleveina grāvis
Kīleveina grāvis MASKAVAS IELA MAZA KRASTA
PIRTS IELA
Mazā
MASKAVAS IELA
Daugav a
MAZA KRASTA
164-165_RigaSF.indd 164 15/02/17 10:20 am

SKANSTES IELA
TOMSONA IELA
VESETAS IELA
VIESTURA SKANSTES IELA GROSTONAS IELA GROSTONAS IELA VESETAS IELA TOMSONA IELA PALĪDZĪBAS IELA TALLINAS IELA
VIESTURA
PALĪDZĪBAS IELA
TALLINAS IELA
PARK PARK PULKVEŽA BRIEŽA PULKVEŽA BRIEŽA HANZAS IEL A S P O R TA ZAUBES IELA A BRIĀNA IELA MIERA IELA MIERA IELA
A BRIĀNA IELA
S P O R TA
HANZAS IEL A
ZAUBES IELA
KRIŠJĀŅA VALDEMĀRA IELA
IELA
VESETAS IELA I E L A
EKSPORTA IELA
EKSPORTA IELA
Hospital
VIDUS IELA RŪPNIECĪBAS IELA RŪPNIECĪBAS IELA E E HANZAS IELA VESETAS IELA I E L A Hospital IELA ARTILĒRIJAS IELA
VIDUS IELA
BRĪVĪBAS
HANZAS IELA
STRĒLNIEKU IELA
STRĒLNIEKU IELA
AUSEKĻA IELA AUSEKĻA IELA VĪLANDES IELA VĪLANDES IELA MEDNIEKU IELA Art Nouveau MELNGAIĻA IELA KRIŠJĀŅA VALDEMĀRA IELA BRUŅINIEKU IELA Dailes Theatre BRĪVĪBAS
ARTILĒRIJAS IELA
MEDNIEKU IELA
Dailes Theatre
MELNGAIĻA
ANTONIJAS IELA
ANTONIJAS IELA ZAĻĀ IELA ZAĻĀ IELA STABU IELA TĒRBATAS IELA
TĒRBATAS IELA
Art Nouveau
IELA
Museum
Museum
BRUŅINIEKU IELA
STABU IELA
Andrejosta
Andrejosta
ELIZABETES
K BARONA IELA
ELIZABETES IELA
IELA ĢERTRŪDES St Ģer St Ģertrūdestrūdes MATĪSA
IELA
IELA
SKOLAS IELA
ĢERTRŪDES Church
MATĪSA
Pauls Stradiņš Museum
Pauls Stradiņš Museum DZIRNAVU IELA SKOLAS IELA Church K BARONA IELA
KRONVALDA of History of Medicine IELA IELA
of History of Medicine
KRONVALDA
PARK PARK LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
J ALUNĀNA IELA
J ALUNĀNA IELA Museum of Jews IELA
DZIRNAVU IELA
BRĪVĪBAS
LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
Museum of Jews
IELA
Latvian
in Latvia
Latvian
Alexander
National in Latvia BRĪVĪBAS Alexander ĢERTRŪDES IELA STABU
National
MIĶEĻA IELA Museum of Art Nevsk Nevskyy BRUŅINIEKU IELA
STABU
K R O N V A L D A B U
Museum of Art
Church
EKSPORTA
EKSPORTA
Church of
Church of Church
KALPAKA BULVĀRIS
KALPAKA BULVĀRIS
Peter and Paul MIĶEĻA IELA LV Ā R I S
Peter and Paul
ESPLANĀDE
ESPLANĀDE IELA IELA
ĢERTRŪDES IELA
BRUŅINIEKU IELA
K R O N V A L D A B U LV Ā R I S
BRĪVĪBAS BULVĀRIS
Orthodox
Orthodox
National IELA IELA KALPAKA BULVĀRIS Cathedral BLAUMAŅA IELA LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
National
Cathedral
BALASTA
BALASTA
IELA
IELA
Theatre
K BARONA IELA
IELA IELA Theatre DZIRNAVU IELA Baptist Baptist
BLAUMAŅA IELA
Rīga Technical
Rīga Technical DAMBIS DAMBIS BRĪVĪBAS BULVĀRIS Church Church
LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
VALDEMĀRA
MUITAS
ĶĪPSALAS IELA
ĶĪPSALAS IELA
KALPAKA BULVĀRIS
University
University MUITAS VALDEMĀRA Z A MEIEROVICA BLVD TĒRBATAS IELA ELIZABETES K BARONA IELA
TĒRBATAS IELA
CITADELES IELA
CITADELES IELA
Pilsetas kanāl s
Pilsetas kanāl s
DZIRNAVU IELA
A ČAKA IELA
K K Museum of JĒKABA IELA JĒKABA IELA Swedish BASTEJKALNS RAIŅA BULVĀRIS VĒRMANES Krišjānis Barons Ģ E R T R Ū D E S
Freedom
Freedom
Z A MEIEROVICA BLVD St Jacob’sSt Jacob’s
Arsenal
Arsenal Swedish
Monument
Monument
VĒRMANES
ELIZABETES
Krišjānis Barons
Barracks
Museum of ArtArt
Barracks
VANŠU BRIDGE
Gate
VANŠU BRIDGE Castle Castle Parliament St Jacob’ TORŅA IELA Latvian MERĶEĻA IELA PARK PARK IELA IELA Puppet Puppet A ČAKA IELA IELA IELA
Gate
Memorial Museum
Memorial Museum
TORŅA IELA Powder Tower/Powder Tower/
Rīga
RīgaParliament
Latvian War War
St Jacob’ss
Ģ E R T R Ū D E S
Theatre
Theatre
Museum
Museum
MERĶEĻA IELA I E L A
Cathedral
Three
Latvian
BASTEJKALNS RAIŅA BULVĀRIS
ĀZENES IELA POĻU POĻU Brothers Three Cathedral M SMILŠU IELA University Latvian AVOTU IELA AVOTU I E L A
ĀZENES IELA
AVOTU IELA
National
National
Art Museum
University
Brothers Art Museum
AVOTU I E L A
M SMILŠU IELA
Riga Boursese
of Latvia
Olympia GĀTE GĀTE PILS IELA Riga Bour ZIRGU ZIRGU VAĻŅU of Latvia Library Library
Olympia
Opera House A R O N A
MARIJAS IELA
PILS IELA
Centre Centre IELA IELA St Saviour’ MIESNIEKU MIESNIEKU DOMA DOMA IELA IELA Cats’ House National K B A R O N A I E L A
Great Guild
St Saviour’s Churchs Church
Cats’ House IEL
VALDEMĀRA
VALDEMĀRA D D Cathedral Dome LAUKUMS ŠĶŪŅU IELA Small Small Opera House K B MARIJAS IELA E BIRZNIEKA-UPĪŠA IELA LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
National
Great Guild A
VAĻŅU IELA
KAĻĶU IELA
E BIRZNIEKA-UPĪŠA IELA
KAĻĶU IELA
Dome
Cathedral Barricades
Guild
Barricades Guild
Museum
Museum
LAUKUMS ŠĶŪŅU IELA
Museum of Decorative ative
Museum of
Museum of
K K a a Rīga’s Histor Museum of Decor VISVALŽA
Rīga’s Historyy
Arts and Design
Arts and Design
and Na Porcelain IELA IELA
and Navigation vigation
u
u
Porcelain
S AT E K L E S I EL A
11 N OVEMBRA KRASTMALA
11 N OVEMBRA KRASTMALA
Museum
Rīga Town Hall KUNGU IELA AUDĒJ U IELA ASPAZIJAS BULVĀRIS
g g SKĀ RŅU IELA St John’s S AT E K L E S I EL A
Museum
LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
VISVALŽA
BALASTA DAMBIS
BALASTA DAMBIS a a Museum of the Occupation of Latvia GRĒCINIEKU IELA Photography VAĻŅU IELA VAĻŅU IELA Central Station SATEKLES IELA
a
St Peter’s
a
St Peter’s
St John’s
AUDĒJ U IELA
SKĀ RŅU IELA
Church
House of Blackheads
House of Blackheads
Church
Church
v
Church
v
SATEKLES IELA
Museum of the Occupation of Latvia
GRĒCINIEKU IELA
Rīga
Rīga
13 JANVĀRA IELA
Latvian Rif
Latvian Riflemenlemen
13 JANVĀRA IELA
Rīga Town Hall KUNGU IELA
Photography
Āgenskalna Līcis
Menzendorff
Menzendorff
Central Station
Monument
Monument
ASPAZIJAS BULVĀRIS
Museum
MĀRSTAĻU IELAMuseum
MĀRSTAĻU IELA
House
House
KALĒJ U IELA
AKMENS BRIDGE
MINSTEREJAS
Rīga Rīga Āgenskalna Līcis MINSTEREJAS IELA KALĒJ U IELA IELA IELA
IELA
Technical
Technical DAUGAVGRĪVAS IELA ABRENE S ABRENE S
University AKMENS BRIDGE Bus Bus S S KATOĻU IELA KATOĻU IELA
DAUGAVGRĪV
C ENTRĀLTIRG U
(RTU) (RTU) IELA IELA Station Station U IELA IELA
IELA
MEŽA IELA KUĞU KUĞU G O G O Ļ A I E L A Church of the IELA IELA KRĀSLAVAS IELA KRĀSLAVAS IELA
MEŽA IELA
SPĪĶERU IELA
IELA
Church of the
UniversityAS IELA
IELA IELA C ENTRĀLTIRG Central PŪPOLU SPĪĶERU PŪPOLU IELA Annunciation DZIRNAVU IELA
Annunciation
Central
GAIZIŅA
GAIZIŅA
Market
Market
TRIJĀDĪBAS STARAJA RUSAS IELA M ASKAVAS IELA PRĀGAS IELA Sciences Ruins Choral IELA IELA JĒKABPILS IELA
TRIJĀDĪBAS
G O G O Ļ A I E L A
JĒKABPILS IELA
Academy of Choral
PRĀGAS IELA Academy of
STARAJA RUSAS IELA
TURGEŅEVA IELA
Synagogue
Sciences Synagogue
DZIRNAVU IELA
Ruins
VALGUMA
VALGUMA
Church
PUŠKINA IELA Church
M ASKAVAS IELA
IELA
IELA
ELIJAS IELA of Jesus
Riga Ghetto
Riga Ghetto TURGEŅEVA IELA PUŠKINA IELA ELIJAS IELA of Jesus GOGOĻA IE LA S A S ADO VŅI KOVA
DZIRNAVU IELA
Museum
Museum
UZVARAS BULVĀRIS Railway MA S K AVAS IELA
UZVARAS BULVĀRIS
JĒZUS BAZNĪCAS IELA
IELA
GOGOĻA IE LA DO VŅI KOVA
SLOKAS
SLOKAS
KUĞU IELA
KUĞU IELA
RAŅĶA DAMBIS
RAŅĶA DAMBIS
IELA IELA IELA K R A S TA I E L A JĒZUS BAZNĪCAS IELA DZIRNAVU IELA STRŪGU IELA STRŪGU IELA LĀČPLĒŠA LĀČPLĒŠA IELA
IELA
Railway
VALGUMA
VALGUMA
K R A S TA I E L A
Museum
Museum
ELIJAS IELA
ELIJAS IELA
IELA
IELA
MA S K AVAS IELA
UZV UZVARASARAS AKMEŅU AKMEŅU
PARK
PARK Daugav a Mazā PIRTS IELA
Kīleveina grāvis
Kīleveina grāvis MASKAVAS IELA MAZA KRASTA
PIRTS IELA
MASKAVAS IELA
Mazā
Daugav a
MAZA KRASTA
164-165_RigaSF.indd 165 15/02/17 10:20 am

BT_166-167.indd 166 25/02/2015 13:36

LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION  167

WESTERN LATVIA


Known for its dense forests and fertile plains, lively cities and
sleepy rural towns, Western Latvia enchants visitors with its
contrasts. The Kurzeme region is quiet and sparsely populated,
with the major exceptions of the busy ports of Ventspils and
Liepāja. Running along the Lithuanian border, the largely
agricultural Zemgale region is dotted with castles and manor
houses recalling past glories.

Prior to the arrival of the German crusaders, (r.1642–81). The Duchy was incorporated
the heavily forested western region now into the Russian Empire in 1795, and its
called Kurzeme was dominated by the fate was thereafter tied up with that of the
Kurši tribe, while the Livs inhabited its rest of what is now Latvia.
northern coast. The fertile and well- Today, most of Kurzeme retains its rural
drained terrain running along the Lielupe character, although the cities of Liepāja
river in the south was home to the and Ventspils are among the largest and
Zemgaļi; together with an eastern region most vibrant in the country. The few
formerly called Selonia, this area is now remaining speakers of the Liv language
known as Zemgale. The Kurzeme tribes continue their fishing traditions on the
were defeated in 1267 and just over two north ern coast. The area has several pictur-
decades later the same fate befell the esque small towns, including Kuldiga and
Zemgaļi – the last of the Latvian tribes Talsi. The Zemgale countryside consists
to surrender. mainly of flat farmland, with exceptions
When the Livonian Order collapsed in such as forest parks in the hills around
the 16th century its last master, Gotthard Tērvete. Jelgava’s Old Town was
Kettler, retained control of the entire devastated during World War II, although
region as a largely inde pendent fiefdom of the duke’s palace is still standing. The most
Poland. With Jelgava as its capital, the popular tourist attraction, however, is
Duchy of Courland and Semigallia reached Rundāle Palace with its Baroque exterior
its zenith under Duke Jakob Kettler and restored Rococo interior.























Bright yellow rape fields in full bloom, Kurzeme
Tree-lined approach to the splendid Rundāle Palace



BT_166-167.indd 167 25/02/2015 13:36

168  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Western Latvia
Cape
Kurzeme’s long, unspoiled coastline has some tranquil villages Kolka
as well as the cities of Ventspils and Liepāja. Ventspils is one of THE LIVONIAN
Latvia’s busiest ports, while Liepāja has been transformed from COAST Kolka
Slītere
a derelict port to a vibrant cultural centre. Further inland, National
Kuldīga is among the country’s most attractive small towns and Park
makes a good base for exploration, while Pedvāle is popular Muņi Ģipka
for its outdoor sculptures. In Zemgale, Rundāle Palace, VIRAC Miķeļtornis
Bauska Castle and a Neo-Classical palace at Mežotne Oviši DUNDAGA Roja
are highlights. Jelgava, a major transport hub, is a Ance Kaltene
good base from which to explore the region. Virpe
Staldzene Ğibzde Valdemārpils
Mērsrags
VENTSPILS Blāzma Bērzciems
Valdgale Krievragciems
Stende
Vārve Ugāle LAKE
0 kilometres 20 TALSI ENGURE
Lībciems Engure
0 miles 20 Nurmuiža
Ušava Spāre Dižstende
Ziras Venta Lake
Usmas Cēre Apšuciems
Zlēkas Abava SABILE Sēme
Sights at a Glance Ulava Renda Kandava JŪRMALA Rīga Jēkabpils
Ozoli Lake
Towns and Cities Ēdole PEDVĀLE TUKUMS Sloka Babites
OPEN-AIR
1 Jelgava KULDĪGA Riežupe MUSEUM Sāti ĶEMERI Baloži
4 Bauska Alsunga Krogsētas Vāne Slampe Tīreļi Ķekava
7 Dobele Vārme Abava Vaski Kalnciems
9 Ķemeri Rīva Birži Zante Džūkste Olaine Misa
0 Tukums PĀVILOSTA Saka Snēpele Šķēde Viesati Džūkste Jaunbērze Stūri
e Dundaga JAUNPILS Z e m g a l e
t Ventspils pp180–81 Tebra Aprīķi Ķikuri Druva Viesata CASTLE Klāvi
K u r z e m e
u Tals Durbe Pilsblīdene Annenieki JELGAVA Garoza
i Sabile Ziemupe Aizpute Kazdanga SALDUS Svēte Iecava Stelpe
p Saldus Cīrava Upenieki DOBELE Svete Emburga
a Kuldīga Vērgale Skrunda Striķi Zalenieki Vircava Lielupe Iecava
d Liepāja pp184–5 Saraiķi Kalvene Sesava Bārbele
Durbe Puijas Skares TĒRVETE MEŽOTNE SKAISTKALNE
NATURE
Sights and Buildings of Interest Venta PARK Tērvete Eleja PALACE ROMAN
2 Mežotne Palace Grobiņa Tadaiķi Embūte Pampāļi Kursīši Auce Bēne Tērvete BAUSKA CATHOLIC
CHURCH
3 Rundāle Palace pp172–3 LIEPĀJA Dubeņi Grīvaši Augstkalne RUNDĀLE
5 Skaistkalne Roman Catholic Zaņa Bukaiši PALACE Kamārde
Church Lake Liepāja Priekule Vaiņode Ruba Ukri Šiauliai
8 Jaunpils Castle Pērkone Panevėžys
y VIRAC Rude Gramzda
o Pedvāle Open-Air Museum Klampjuciems Bārta Bārta
Parks and Reserves Jūrmalciems
6 Tērvete Nature Park Dunika
f Lake Pape Nature Reserve
LAKE PAPE Lake
Area of Natural Beauty NATURE Pape Rucava
w Lake Engure RESERVE Key
Motorway
Beaches and Resorts
Main road
q Jūrmala pp174–5 Secondary road
s Pāvilosta
Minor road
Tour Railway
r The Livonian Coast p177 International border
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp301–302 and pp322–4

168-169.indd 168 15/02/17 10:15 am

WESTERN LA T VIA  169



Cape
Kolka
THE LIVONIAN
COAST
Kolka
Slītere
National
Park
Muņi Ģipka
VIRAC Miķeļtornis
Oviši
DUNDAGA Roja
Ance
Kaltene
Virpe
Staldzene Ğibzde Valdemārpils
Mērsrags
VENTSPILS Blāzma Bērzciems
Valdgale Krievragciems Ruins of the 15th-century Bauska Castle, perched on a grassy mound
Stende
Vārve Ugāle LAKE
Lībciems TALSI ENGURE
Nurmuiža Engure
Ušava Spāre Dižstende
Ziras Venta Lake
Usmas Cēre Apšuciems
Zlēkas Sēme
Abava SABILE
Renda JŪRMALA Rīga Jēkabpils
Kandava
Ozoli Lake
Ulava
PEDVĀLE TUKUMS
Ēdole OPEN-AIR Sloka Babites
Riežupe MUSEUM ĶEMERI
KULDĪGA Sāti Baloži
Alsunga Krogsētas Vāne Slampe Tīreļi Ķekava
Vaski
Abava
Rīva Vārme Zante Džūkste Kalnciems Misa
Birži Olaine
PĀVILOSTA Šķēde Džūkste
Saka Snēpele Viesati Jaunbērze Stūri
Tebra Aprīķi Viesata JAUNPILS Z e m g a l e Klāvi
CASTLE
Ķikuri Druva Pilsblīdene Annenieki JELGAVA Garoza
Aizpute Kazdanga
Durbe
Ziemupe K u r z e m e Svēte Iecava Stelpe
Cīrava SALDUS Upenieki DOBELE Svete Emburga
Vērgale Skrunda Striķi Vircava Lielupe Iecava
Saraiķi Kalvene Zalenieki Sesava Bārbele
Durbe Puijas Skares TĒRVETE Tērvete MEŽOTNE SKAISTKALNE
NATURE
PARK Eleja PALACE ROMAN
Venta
Grobiņa Tadaiķi Embūte Pampāļi Kursīši Auce Bēne Tērvete BAUSKA CATHOLIC
CHURCH
LIEPĀJA Augstkalne RUNDĀLE
Dubeņi Zaņa Grīvaši Bukaiši PALACE Kamārde
Lake Liepāja Priekule Vaiņode Ruba Ukri Šiauliai
Pērkone Panevėžys
Rude Gramzda
Klampjuciems Bārta Bārta
Jūrmalciems
Dunika
Getting Around
LAKE PAPE Lake To explore Western Latvia’s remote towns and villages, it is
NATURE Pape Rucava generally best to travel by car. By contrast, it is also possible to visit
RESERVE Key the region’s many other attractions by using public transport.
Motorway While buses are a good option for reaching Bauska and most
Main road of Kurzeme’s sights, taking a train is preferable for trips to Jelgava
and Tukums. However, as there are no direct routes between Rīga
Secondary road
and Rundāle, visitors will need to travel to Bauska and take an
Minor road
onward bus from there. The port towns of Ventspils and Liepāja
Railway have good ferry connec tions with Rīga as well as with other
International border European cities. There are also airports at Liepāja and Ventspils.
For keys to symbols see back flap
168-169.indd 169 15/02/17 10:15 am

170  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

















Jelgava Palace, built on an island in the Lielupe river, Jelgava
1 Jelgava who died in 1917 in Latvia as to the grandchildren of the
German prisoners of war during Russian Tsarina Catherine II.
Road Map C4. * 66,000.
£ from Rīga. @ from Rīga. World War I. The original design by Italian
n Akadēmijas iela 1, 6300 5445. architect Giacomo Quarenghi
_ International Ice Sculpture Festival + Jelgava Palace was developed by local archi-
(Feb). ∑ visit.jelgava.lv Lielā iela 2. Tel 6300 5617. Open mid- tect J G Berlitz. The Lieven
May–Aug: 9am–6pm Mon–Sat; Sep– family lost the manor in 1920
Between 1578 and 1795, mid-May: 9am–6pm Mon–Fri. & 8 during the agrarian reforms,
Jelgava was the capital of the R Orthodox Cathedral of and it was partly destroyed
Duchy of Courland. The most St Simeon and St Anna during World War II. Today, the
prominent remnant of the Raiņa iela 5. Tel 6302 0207. palace is used for functions and
duchy period is the Jelgava Open 9am–5pm daily. 5 5pm. as a hotel, but it is also open
Palace (Jelgavas pils), the win ter E History and Art Museum to visitors. The highlight is the
residence of Ernst Johann Biron Akadēmijas iela 10. Tel 6302 3383. Dome Hall, with artificial marble
(see p173). Built in the 18th Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. & pillars and walls, and a dome
century by Francesco B Rastrelli, painted to give the illusion of
the building today houses the E Latvian Railway Museum three-dimensional decoration.
Latvian University of Agriculture. Stacijas iela 3. Tel 6309 6494. The grounds are in the style of
None of the original interiors Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sat (to an English park, and in summer
remain intact, but a small 7pm Thu). & 8 boats take visitors across the
museum houses archive photo- Lielupe river. On the other side
graphs of the palace’s pre-war of the river is a castle mound,
state. Museum staff also provide 2 Mežotne Palace site of one of the largest
access to the burial vault of the Road Map D4. Tel 6396 0711. Semigallian castles and scene
dukes of Courland. Around 50 Open 9am–8pm daily. & 0 of their final battle against the
wild horses roam the meadows ∑ mezotnespils.lv German crusaders (1290).
on the island behind the palace.
The Old Town offers a handful This restored Neo-Classical
of interesting sights. The structure was built in 1802 for 3 Rundāle Palace
impressively restored Orthodox Charlotte von Lieven, govern ess See pp 172–3.
Cathedral of St Simeon and
St Anna (Sv Sīmaņa un Annas
pareizticīgo katedrāle) was
designed by Rastrelli for Biron’s 4 Bauska
patron, Anna Ivanovna. A Baroque Road Map D4. * 11,000. @ from
building houses the History Rīga. n Rātslaukums 1, 6392 3797.
and Art Museum (Vēstures un _ Early Music Festival (Jul),
mākslas muzejs), which docu- International Country Music Festival
ments local history, while the (Jul). ∑ tourism.bauska.lv
quirky little Latvian Railway
Museum (Latvijas dzelzceļu A small country town, Bauska
muzejs) attracts rail enthusiasts. is known mainly for its
15th-century Bauska Castle
Environs (Bauskas pils), which was built at
The small Nikolai Cemetery, the confluence of the Mēmele
4 km (2 miles) southeast of and Mūsa rivers to help control
Jelgava, contains the graves Pastel-coloured exterior of the the trade route between Rīga
of 36 British soldiers and sailors Neo-Classical Mežotne Palace and Lithuania. Later, it became
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp301–302 and pp322–4


170-171.indd 170 15/02/17 10:15 am

WESTERN LA T VIA  171


the property of the Duchy of artificial marble palisades and E Anna Brigadere Museum
Courland and Semigallia and a an ornate altarpiece. Plump, Sprīdīši. Tel 2653 2691. Open May–
fortified residence was added pastel-coloured cherubs Oct: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &
for the duke. Resto ration work decorate the pulpit and organ, E Tērvete History Museum
has reversed inauthentic Soviet and two sets of paintings Lielķēniņi. Tel 2695 0975. Open May–
alterations, including the represent the Stations of the Nov: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &
renewal of the original sgraffito Cross. Call ahead, as the church
decoration on the towers. is often locked.
It is possible to climb one of 7 Dobele
the towers for a small fee, 6 Tērvete Nature Road Map C4. * 11,100. £ @
and tours of the castle are n Baznicas iela 6, 6372 3074.
illuminating. Park ∑ dobele.lv
Besides a number of fine Tērvetes dabas parks
wooden buildings, the town Road Map C4. @ n Tērvetes Sils, Situated on the banks of the
also boasts a 16th-century 6372 6212. Open 9am–7pm daily Bērze river, Dobele is visited
Lutheran church and the (Nov–Feb: to 5pm). & mainly for its ruined Livonian
river side Bauskas Alus brewery. - = 7 partial. Order castle, built in 1335.
∑ tervetesparks.lv Destroyed several times dur-
+ Bauska Castle ing the Polish-Swedish
Tel 6392 2280. Open May–Sep: This popular nature Wars (1600–29), the
9am–7pm daily; Oct: 9am–6pm daily; park was developed in castle began to be
Nov–Apr: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & the forest around restored only in 2002. The
∑ bauskaspils.lv Tērvete, which was small Dobele History
Bauskas Alus famous as the home of Museum recounts the
Tel 2945 1942. Open by appointment. Sprīdītis, a Tom Thumb- town’s history and
8 ∑ bauskasalus.lv like character in the mounts temporary
beloved fairy tale by exhibitions. On the
Anna Brigadere edge of town, the
(1861–1933). Her Wooden figure, Dobele Horticultural
summer house has Tērvete Nature Park Plant Breeding
been preserved as Experimental Station
the Anna Brigadere Museum. houses a museum dedicated to
The theme of the fairytale noted horticulturalist Pēteris
is evident throughout the Upītis (1896–1976). One of the
park, with its Dwarf Forest largest lilac collec tions in the
and Fairytale Forest dotted world can also be found here.
with carved wooden creatures. Classical music concerts are held
Summertime attrac tions in the gardens every spring,
include the park’s own witch, while the flowers are in bloom.
and there are quieter paths
through the Old Pine Forest. Environs
Nearby are a Livonian Order A drive of 13 km (8 miles)
castle mound with an impos- down a gravel road west of
Embellished altarpiece, Skaistkalne Roman ing replica fort and the Tērvete town, the Pokaiņi Forest is an
Catholic Church History Museum, which area of spiritual signifi cance
displays a collection of farm due to its numerous unusual
5 Skaistkalne utensils and textiles. rock formations.
Roman Catholic
Church
Skaistkalnes Romas katoļu baznīca
Road Map D4. Slimnīcas iela 2,
Skaistkalne. Tel 6393 3154. 8
Built for the Jesuits in 1692
and now maintained and
administered by monks of
the Paulian Order, Skaistkalne
Church is Latvia’s most popular
place of pil grimage after Aglona
(see p199). Raised on a mound,
the white building has a red
roof and a rounded apse. The
Baroque interior features Ruins of the 14th-century Livonian Order castle in Dobele




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172  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

3 Rundāle Palace

Designed by Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli (1700–71),
Rundāle is one of the finest palaces in the Baltic region. Work
began in 1736 on a Baroque summer residence for Ernst
Johann Biron, but was left unfinished when he was exiled.
Following Biron’s return, the interiors were reno vated in the
Rococo style. Biron’s son removed most of the furnishings
when he left in 1795, after Courland was annexed by Russia.
The structure suffered damage during the 20th century, and
the rooms have served as an elementary school and a
granary. Restoration began in 1972 and is still in progress.
Detail, Rose Room
Rococo touches, such as fake
marble, silver detailing and floral
motifs, adorn the room.







. Duke’s Bedroom
This room was the focal point of
Biron’s private apartments, which
occupied the central
block of the palace.































The Corner Room
The Russian Neo-Classical style reflects the
taste of Count Zubov, who inhabited the . Gold Hall
palace after Courland was absorbed into The initials of the palace’s owner, “EJ”, can be
the Russian Empire. seen amid the ornate gilt scrolls.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp301–302 and pp322–4


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WESTERN LA T VIA  173


Ernst Johann Biron VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The son of a minor landlord, Ernst Practical Information
Johann Biron was asked to leave the Road Map D4. Tel 6396 2274.
academy in Königsberg (present- Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
day Kaliningrad) for bad behaviour. Nov–Apr: 10am–5pm daily. &
Failing to establish himself in the 8 0 ∑ rundale.net Park:
Russian court, he returned to Open Jun–Sep: 10am–7pm daily
Jelgava and became close to the (to 9pm Fri–Sun); May & Oct: 10am
widowed Duchess of Courland, –6pm; Nov–Apr: 10am–5pm daily.
Anna Ivanovna. In 1730, Anna
became empress of Russia, Transport
@ from Bauska.
and three years later Biron was
appointed Duke of Courland. Duke of Courland, Ernst Johann Biron
After his patron died in 1740, the (1690–1772)
unpopular Biron was sent into exile,
returning only in 1763. A year later, Catherine II made him duke
once more, but he abdicated in 1769 in favour of his son Peter.







Duchess’s Boudoir
The duchess could rest and receive visitors
during the day in the splen didly decorated
boudoir, which has now been restored.
The duchess and other family members
lived in the western wing.








KEY
1 The Grand Gallery was where
guests would dine before dancing in
the White Hall. Wall paintings were
uncovered during restoration.
2 Rose Room
3 Duke’s Reception Room
4 The Marble Hall was used as a
school gym in the 20th century.
5 An exhibition on the palace’s
construction is on display in the
building’s basement.
6 A display of period clothes fills
three rooms with fashions from the
17th and 18th centuries.
. White Hall 7 The courtyard has gateposts
This ballroom boasts topped by the duke’s emblem – a
lavish stucco work by heraldic lion.
German sculptor 8The Oval Porcelain Cabinet,
Johann Michael Graff. made by Johann Michael Graff,
The restrained colour was designed to display the house-
scheme gives the hold’s collection of fine china.
room its name.




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174  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

8 Jaunpils Castle
Jaunpils pils
Road Map C4. Tel 6310 7082.
Open 10am–6pm daily. & -
∑ jaunpilspils.lv
Built by the Livonian Order in
1301, with its distinctive round
tower added in the 15th century,
Jaunpils Castle was owned by
the German von der Recke
family from 1561 to 1922. On
24 December 1905, the castle
was burned down by
revolutionaries (see p139), and
the current structure is almost One of a dozen bridges across the Vēršupīte river, Ķemeri Park
entirely the result of subsequent
reconstruction. The small 9 Ķemeri Ķemeri Park, encompasses an
museum inside includes replicas Road Map C3. @ from Rīga. Orthodox church, pavilions and
of weapons and armour, as well n Meža Māja, 6773 0078. 8 canoe bridges across the Vēršupīte river.
as some interesting photographs trips & wildlife tours arranged at Ķemeri is also the entry
of the castle before 1905. Across visitors’ centre. ∑ daba.gov.lv point to Ķemeri National Park,
the courtyard from the museum which has rivers, lakes, mea-
is a pub, and the castle also has A popular resort in the early 20th dows, inland dunes, sulphur
eight atmospheric hotel rooms century, Ķemeri is consi dered springs and forests. A 3-km
(see p301). Guided tours also take part of Jūrmala, although it has (2-mile) wooden pathway
in Jaunpils town’s Evangelical not seen the same scale of traverses the park’s 6,000-ha
Lutheran Church and the early rejuvenation experienced further (14,830-acre) bog, which
19th-century watermill. east. The town’s main attraction, attracts bird-watchers.
q Jūrmala

Literally meaning “seaside” in Latvian, Jūrmala is an attractive
stretch of beaches, pine forests and small towns alongside
the Gulf of Rīga. During the 19th century, the area became
famous for its medicinal mud and sulphur-rich spring water.
Jūrmala soon grew into a popular resort and it became
fashionable to own a summerhouse here. The wooden houses
as well as older sanitaria still dot the area, standing alongside
modern guesthouses and upmarket spas.
Jomas Street in Majori is a
Jūrmala pedestrianized strip that forms the Bulduri LIELUPE
heart of Jūrmala. It is lined with a
Beach
Area of Lielupe large number of outdoor cafés,
Gulf of Rīga main map ME Ž A PRO SPE KT S
Dubulti restaurants and hotels, as well as Dzintari B U L D U R U P RO SPEK TS
Majori a variety of shops. Beach
Kaugari
Vaivari Jaundubulti Gulf of
Sloka Rīga DZINTARI E DI NB U RGA S PR O SP E KT S BULDURI
Marienbāde
Sanitarium was Majori D Z INTA RU
built in 1870. Beach P R O S P E K T S
J Ũ RA S I E LA
JO MAS IE LA
JŪRMALA
Aspazija House was Z M E I E R O V I C A P R O S P E K T S MAJORI
the last home of one of Lielupe R Ī G A S I ELA
Latvia’s most famous
poets, Elza Rozenberga DUBULTI
(1865–1943), DUBULTU
nicknamed PROSPEKTS
“Aspazija”. The Jūrmala City Museum charts
house is now a S LO KA S I EL A the growth of the seaside
branch of the resort from the early 19th
Jūrmala Town Museum. century to today.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp301–302 and pp322–4
174_175.indd 174 15/02/17 10:15 am

WESTERN LA T VIA  175

0 Tukums from the 1920s and 30s. It is a distinctive red-brick manor
is considered to be Latvia’s house with step gables and
Road Map C3. * 19,000. £ from
Rīga. @ n Talsu 5, 6312 4451. foremost gallery outside Rīga. chimneys. Many of the rooms
( Tue, Thu, Sat. _ Rose Festival of this former hunting lodge are
(Jul). ∑ visittukums.lv Environs decorated in an ornate style.
Durbes Pils, a manor house on A highlight is a large tiled stove
Meaning the “Land of the End” in the eastern edge of Tukums, is bearing images of Rīga and
Livonian, Tukums stands at the an 1820s Neo-Classical build ing Jūrmala. The forest museum
point where the Zemgale plains with a 17th-century core. The upstairs includes oddities such
meet the Kurzeme uplands. restored rooms include displays as a collection of silver cigarette
Little remains of the town’s on local history, holders. It is possible to climb
history as an ancient but the foremost the tower for stunning views of
Liv settlement, exhibi tion is the the surrounding countryside.
while the only ethno logical
remnant of the col lection in E Local History Museum
Livonian Order castle is the former ser vants’ Brīvības laukums 19a. Tel 6312 4348.
the Palace Tower (Pils quarters. About 5 km Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
tornis). Restored in 1767 to (3 miles) east of Tukums is 10am–4pm Sun. &
serve as a granary and jail, the 15th-century Šlokenbeka E Tukums Art Museum
it now hou ses the Monument to freedom Manor, home to Harmonijas 7. Tel 6318 2392.
Local History fighters, Tukums the Latvian Road Open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–4pm
Museum, which dis- Museum. Many Sat & Sun. &
plays dioramas and exhib its are of spe cial- + Durbes Pils
temporary exhibitions. ist inter est but the col lections of Mazā parka 7. Tel 6312 2633.
The oldest buildings in the old horse-drawn car riages and road Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
town date from the late 19th building machines have a more 11am–4pm Sun. & 8 ^
and early 20th centuries. The general appeal. E Latvian Road Museum
main highlight, Tukums Art Jaunmoku Pils (see p323), Milzkalne. Tel 2990 4147.
Museum, houses Latvian art 5 km (3 miles) west of Tukums, Open 9am–4pm Mon–Fri. &
Dzintari Beach, is a popular
stretch of sand that draws hordes VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of tourists in summer. It is dotted
with beer tents and volleyball Practical Information
nets during this time. Road Map C3. n Lienes iela 5,
Majori, 6714 7900.
Aspazija House: Meierovica prosp
20, Dubulti. Tel 6776 9445.
0 km 1 Jūrmala City Museum: Tirgoņu
0 miles 1 iela 29, Majori. Tel 6776 4746.
Dzintari Concert Hall: Turaidas iela
1. Tel 6776 2086. Morbergs’
Summer Cottage: Dzintaru
Prospekts 52/54. Tel 6722 7175.
Dzintari Concert Hall Bulduri
hosts open-air Beach LIELUPE Transport
summer concerts. ME ŽA PRO SPE KT S £ from Rīga.
Dzintari B UL DU R U P R O SPEK TS
Beach
Gulf of
Rīga DZINTARI E DI NB U RGA S PR O S P E K T S BULDURI
Majori D Z INTA RU
Beach P R O S P E K T S
J Ũ RA S I E LA
JO M AS IE LA
JŪRMALA
Z M E I E R O V I C A P R O S P E K T S MAJORI R Ī GA S I ELA
Lielupe
DUBULTI
DUBULTU
PROSPEKTS Morbergs’ Summer The coastal towns which make up Jūrmala
Cottage, built in are situated among picturesque pine forests.
1883 in Neo-Gothic Strict building regulations preserve the
style, sits amid 19th-century wooden summerhouses and
beautiful gardens. restrict construction in the area.
S LO KA S I EL A
For keys to symbols see back flap


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176  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION


ships in the late 19th and
early 20th centuries, fish
canning and the local Banga
fishermen’s collective.
E Sea-Fishing Museum
Selgas iela 33. Tel 6326 9594. Open
Jun–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–
May: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8

e Dundaga
Road Map C3. * 4,000. @
Reed-filled part of Lake Engure, with boats moored along the shore n Pils iela 14, 6323 2293.
w Lake Engure Ornithological Centre, running ∑ visit.dundaga.lv
Engures ezers through dry pine forest and a First recorded in 1245, Dundaga
chalky grass swamp in which 22 has a restored 13th-century
Road Map C3. 8 for boating:
Abragciems Kempings, 4 km (2 miles) species of orchid can be found. Livonian Order castle that today
N of Engure, 6316 1668; for fishing Many parts of the lake houses the tourist office.
permits: Ornithological Centre, are choked with reeds The coats of arms of the
Bērzciems, 6947 4420 (open by as a result of pollution last owners decorate
appointment only). ∑ eedp.lv by chemical fertilizers, the tower over the
and a number of fish entrance to the
Latvia’s third-largest lake, Engure species have disap- northwestern section.
is a significant bird habitat. peared, although The Lutheran church
Around 160 species have been fishing permits can nearby has an
spotted in the wetlands, still be obtained at altar piece by Janis
including cranes and grey the centre. Coat of arms at the Rozentāls (1866–
herons. A road leads around castle, Dundaga 1916). The church’s
the western edge of the lake, Environs 19th-century wooden
between the towns Mērsrags The small fishing port of Roja, organ case is unusual, as it is the
and Engure, while the 26 km (16 miles) northwest work of Latvian craftsmen who
Ornithological Centre on the of Mērsrags, offers more generally produced functional
eastern side of the lake can be accommodation options than items while foreign masters
reached by turning inland just most places on the coastal made decorative pieces.
north of Bērzciems. One bird- route from Rīga to Ventspils. Dundaga features a large,
watching tower is situated close Exhibits in the town’s bizarre sculpture of a crocodile
to the centre, while another is Sea-Fishing Museum (Rojas at the corner of Talsu and
directly oppo site it across the jūras zvejniecības muzejs) look Dinsberga streets, honouring
lake. A 3.5-km (2-mile) orchid at the naval schools of Krišjānis local crocodile hunter Arvīds
trail starts close to the Valdemārs (see p195), sailing Blūmentāls (1925–2006). He
emigrated to Australia during
World War II and is said to have
The Coast-Dwelling Livs
been the inspiration for the film
A Finnic people related to the Estonians, the Livs settled along the Crocodile Dundee (1986).
Gulf of Rīga around 5,000 years ago, long before the arrival of
the Latvian tribes. They referred to themselves as raandalist (coast-
dwellers) and kalāmīed (fishermen), and the sea has always been
central to their way of life. German
crusaders devastated Livonian culture
in the 13th century and the Livs were
gradually assimi lated into the other
Baltic tribes. During the 19th and 20th
centuries, children were educated in
German and later Russian rather than
in Livonian. Many of the remaining Livs
were forced to leave the region when
the Soviets declared the coast a military
zone. Since 1991 there have been
concerted efforts to preserve and
strengthen Liv culture. Today, not
Monument to Livonian Culture more than 200 people are officially
in Mazirbe registered as Livs. Large concrete crocodile sculpture on a bed
of stones in Dundaga
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp301–302 and pp322–4


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WESTERN LA T VIA  177


r The Livonian Coast Tips for Drivers

A narrow strip of land running along the edge of the Gulf Tour length: 60 km (37 miles).
of Rīga and the Baltic Sea and dominated by sand dunes Stopping-off points: There are
small guesthouses and camp sites
and pine forests, the Livonian Coast is separated from in several of the coastal villa ges.
the rest of Kurzeme by the Zilie kalni (Blue Hills). It is Booking ahead is advisable.
home to one of Europe’s smallest ethnic groups, the Livs. Road conditions: Conditions can
The coastal route also provides access to some of Latvia’s be difficult once off the main
roads, particularly in poor weather.
most beautiful scenery. It is only a short walk between
fishing villages and attractively secluded beaches.
2 Cape Kolka
The point at which the
Baltic Sea meets
the Gulf of Rīga is
a popular place for
Latvian holidaymakers.



3 Vaide Cape Kolka
The Museum of Horns is the main 1 Pūrciems White Dune
highlight of Vaide. It showcases the A walkway leads across the
personal collection of a forest Vaide Uši dune, while signboards indi­
warden, formed over decades. cate a Neolithic settlement.

Melnsils
Pitrags
Slītere Ģipka Žocene
National
Park Pilsupe
Mazirbe Vidale
Sīkrags
4 Košrags Slītere Muņi
The typical coastal village
of Košrags is dotted with Jaunciems Kalķi
18th­century wooden Neveja
buildings, including a
small B&B.




0 km 7
0 miles 7






5 Mazirbe 6 Slītere Lighthouse
Located in Mazirbe village, Indicating the start of the
the Folk House of the Livs is Slītere nature trail, the
a museum with a collection lighthouse can be climbed for
of old photographs showing Key a view of Slītere National Park’s
rope­making, leather­ forests. Inside, there is a display
softening and other daily Tour route focusing on the lighthouses
activities of the Livs. Other road along Latvia’s coastline.

For keys to symbols see back flap Jelgava Palace, the former island winter residence of Ernst Johann Biron


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180  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

t Ventspils screens. As a Livonian Order
stronghold, it was a self-
Founded in 1290, Ventspils has long been a trading centre contained world complete with
and was a member of the Hanseatic League. In the 18th a dormitory, refectory, chapel
century, war and plague ravaged the city, but it later thrived and meeting hall. Later, the
as part of the Russian Empire. chapel was used as a Lutheran
church, while the building
A hub for Russian oil tankers till recently, Ventspils has served as a prison at various
gained an air of affluence since independence. In order to times from 1824 to 1959. It
limit its reliance on Russia, the city has been spruced up to became the barracks for the
boost tourism. Enlivened by parks, flower beds and fountains, German army during World
Ventspils has a bustling modern centre and a well-restored War I and for Soviet border
guards from 1962 to 1983. The
Old Town. The historic core is best explored on foot and a rooms in which the exhibits are
walk along Ostas Street offers a chance to see bovine laid out bear fragments of wall
sculptures left after the 2012 Cow Parade. paintings from the 15th to the
17th centuries, and there are
also displays of traditional
costumes and jewellery.
The pleasant restaurant on
the premises, Melnais Sivēns Pils
Krogs (see p324), is one of the
best places to eat in the city.
During summer, it is possible
to try archery and, by
arrangement, fire a small
cannon in front of the castle.
Exterior of the 13th-century Livonian Order castle, Ventspils Castle R Russian Orthodox Church
of St Nicholas
E Ventspils Castle 14th century. Devastated by Plosta iela 10. Tel 6362 1616.
Jāņa iela 17. Tel 6362 2031. Open the Swedish army in 1659, the The onion-domed Russian
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8 7 0 castle has been restored many Orthodox Church of St Nicholas
∑ muzejs.ventspils.lv times since. Parts of the red- (Sv Nikolaja pareizticīgo baz-
On the bank of the Venta river, brick gallery in the inner court- nīca) was consecrated in the
this Livonian Order castle is one yard were built as recently as early 20th century. Although the
of the finest in Latvia. Although the 1870s. Neo-Byzantine exterior needs to
it began life as a late 13th- The museum inside the castle be restored, the interior has an
century stone tower, its current recounts its history through excellent collection of icons. Hercogs PLOSTA IELA
form largely dates from the engaging displays and touch Jēkabs Russian Orthodox
Venta Church of
St Nicholas
P I L S I EL A
LIELĀ
T I R G U S
Ventspils JĀŅA IELA Lutheran Church
Beach O S TA S I E L A Ventspils of St Nicholas
P I L S I E L A
Venta Castle
Station
K V A L D E M Ā R A AVOTU KU L D Ĩ G A S I E L A Bus
OSTGALS RĨGAS IELA KATOĻ U IELA S A U L E S I E L A PLATĀ R A I Ņ A I E L A LAUKU BRĨVĨBAS IELA
LOČU IELA K A R L Ĩ N E S LĨVU J Ū R A S I E L A MEŽA IELA L I E P U ALEKSANDRA SARKANMUIŽAS
DAMBIS
KATOĻU IELA LIEPĀJAS GANĨBU IELA JŪRAS IELA 130 m (140 yards)
Aqua Park K R O Ņ A I E L A L I E L Ā D Z I R N AV U
Railway Station
V I ĻŅ U I E L A
VA S A R N Ĩ C U I E L A Children’s M E Ž A I E L A L I E L A I S P R O S P E K T S
L I E L A I S P R O S P E K T S
M E D Ņ U I E L A
City
P Ē T E R A I E L A
PA R K A I E L A
Seaside Open-Air INŽENIERU
Museum
0 metres 500
LAIMAS
STRAZDU IELA 0 yards 500
ATPŪTAS
RIŅĶA IELA
For keys to symbols see back flap
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WESTERN LA T VIA  181


R Lutheran Church of VISITORS’ CHECKLIST y VIRAC (Ventspils
St Nicholas International Radio
Tirgus 2. Tel 6362 2750. Practical Information Astronomy Centre)
Open 9am–4pm daily. Road Map C3. * 44,000.
With a portico at the front and n Dārza iela 6, 6362 2263. Ventspils Starptautiskais
a tower with an obser vation ∑ visitventspils.com Radioastronomijas Centrs
platform, this attractive yellow- Transport Road Map B3. Tel 2923 0818.
and-white church (Sv Nikolaja £ Dzeaizceļnieku iela. @ Open Mar–Nov: 6am–6pm daily. &
Luterāļu baznīca) stands on the Kuldīga iela 5. g Plosta iela 7. 8 call in advance. ∑ virac.venta.lv
old market square. Dating from
1835, it was built in accordance Situated in a former Russian
with the wishes of Tsar Nicholas I. of fishing boats and anchors, and army town, the 1970s military
a Narrow-Gauge Railway. Until installation is believed to
E Seaside Open-Air the 1960s, the steam engine have spied on commu-
Museum linked seaside villages, but now nications between Europe and
Riņķa 2. Tel 6362 4467. Open May– it takes a 1.4-km (0.8-mile) trip the USA for at least a decade.
Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 7 - through Seaside Park. When they left in 1994, the
∑ ventspilsmuzejs.lv Narrow- Russians took the smallest
Gauge Railway: May–Oct: Sat & Sun. dish, leaving the two heavier
The Seaside Open-Air Museum ones, which are 16 m (52 ft)
(Piejūras brīvdabas muzejs) was and 32 m (105 ft) in diameter.
opened in 1954 to preserve The bigger one is the largest
the heritage of Latvia’s fishing radio telescope in Northern
villages, which began to Europe and the world’s
disappear as the Soviet eighth largest.
authorities regarded the shores A combination of size
as areas of military importance. and precision engineering
Buildings were moved from makes the larger dish
their original loc a tion and especially valuable to
reassembled here and the site scientists. Guided tours of it
now includes homesteads, begin with the ground-floor
smokehouses, curing cabins, net laboratory. Visitors can climb
sheds and even a large windmill. Water slides and swimming pools at the up to a viewing platform
Traditional crafts are displayed Aqua Park and then step into one of
around the site in summer. the sus pended laboratory
There are also large collections Aqua Park pods. The structure was built
Medņu iela 19. Tel 2642 9684. Open by a naval factory in the
May–Sep: 10am–9pm daily. & - Ukraine, and the interiors
Hercogs PLOSTA IELA With three pools, several slides, are remi nis cent of a ship.
Jēkabs
Russian Orthodox Jacuzzis and saunas as well as a The unmarked road to VIRAC,
Church of
Venta St Nicholas variety of water play grounds, the leading past eerily empty
Aqua Park (Akvaparks) is popular
residential buildings, is just
P I L S I EL A with families. Swimming gear east of an electrical substation
LIELĀ
T I R G U S
Ventspils JĀŅA IELA Lutheran Church
Beach O S TA S I E L A Ventspils of St Nicholas can be rented on site. on the P124. Book in advance
Venta Castle for a guided tour.
P I L S I E L A L Ventspils Beach
The residents of Ventspils are
Station
K V A L D E M Ā R A AVOTU KU L D Ĩ G A S I E L A Bus 2 km (1 mile) S of town. 7
OSTGALS RĨGAS IELA KATOĻ U IELA S A U L E S I E L A PLATĀ R A I Ņ A I E L A LAUKU BRĨVĨBAS IELA proud of their beach, particu-
larly the 1.2-km (0.7-mile)
LOČU IELA K A R L Ĩ N E S LĨVU J Ū R A S I E L A MEŽA IELA L I E P U ALEKSANDRA SARKANMUIŽAS stretch that received an EU
Blue Flag in 1999 for meeting
DAMBIS
KATOĻU IELA LIEPĀJAS GANĨBU IELA JŪRAS IELA 130 m (140 yards) a remarkable achieve ment, since
Aqua Park K R O Ņ A I E L A L I E L Ā D Z I R N AV U international standards. This was
Railway Station
the coast had been contaminated
V I ĻŅ U I E L A
VA S A R N Ĩ C U I E L A Children’s M E Ž A I E L A L I E L A I S P R O S P E K T S Ventspils by industrial pollution during
L I E L A I S P R O S P E K T S
M E D Ņ U I E L A
the Soviet era. Parts of the
1 Ventspils Castle
beach have been set aside for
City
2 Russian Orthodox Church of
windsurfers, nudists and smo kers,
P Ē T E R A I E L A
PA R K A I E L A
St Nicholas
3 Lutheran Church of St Nicholas and there are playgrounds for
children. At the northern end of
Seaside Open-Air INŽENIERU
Museum LAIMAS 4 Seaside Open-Air Museum the beach is a break water, with
5 Aqua Park a promenade leading to a Radio telescope at VIRAC, the largest of its
STRAZDU IELA 6 Ventspils Beach lighthouse at the end. kind in Northern Europe
ATPŪTAS
RIŅĶA IELA
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp301–302 and pp323–4
180-181_VenTM.indd 181 15/02/17 10:15 am

182  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

u Talsi Kurzeme Duchy (1561–1795),
Road Map C3. * 12,500. @ but viniculture may have begun
n Liela iela 19–21, 6322 4165. long before. In the 1930s, the
_ Mara’s Craft Market Fair (Aug). vineyard was used to experiment
∑ talsitourism.lv with grape varieties, but this
ceased during the Soviet period.
The administrative centre of Work began again in 1989, and
northern Kurzeme and a there are now 650 vines of 15
transport hub for the region, varie ties. Wine-tasting is possible
Talsi is an attractive town spread at the annual wine festival.
out around two lakes and across
nine hills. It was originally a Liv Environs
settlement, captured by the Mara’s Caves (Māras kambari),
Kurši during the 10th century, named after an ancient Latvian
and then by the Livonian Order goddess, are 12 km (7 miles)
in 1263. A mound remains southwest of Sabile. In the Middle
where the Order’s castle stood Latvian grape variety Zilga growing at Vīna Ages, these sandstone caves were
on Watermill Hill (Dzirnavkalns). Kalns, Sabile’s renowned vineyard used as a hiding place by bandits.
Talsi’s oldest surviving
building is the 18th-century i Sabile } Drubazas Botany Trail
Lutheran church, atop Church Road Map C3. * 3,500. @ “Drubazas” Abavas pagasts. Tel 2837
Hill (Baznīckalns). The most n Pilskalna iela 6, 6325 2344. 0702. Open call in advance. &
noted pastor of the church was _ Wine Festival (Jul). ∑ sabile.lv
Karl Amenda (1771–1836), a
close friend of composers A small town on the banks of o Pedvāle Open-Air
Beethoven and Mozart. Nearby, the Abava river, Sabile was first Museum
the cobblestoned Kalēju and mentioned in 1253, by which Pedvāles brīvdabas mākslas muzejs
Ūdens streets are notable for time it had long been inhabited
water troughs. by the Kurši tribe. Only a mound Road Map C4. Strauta 4. Tel 6325
The Talsi Regional Museum remains of the tribe’s castle, 2249. @ Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm
daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm daily. &
(Talsu novada muzejs), housed although the stones were used 8 - ∑ pedvale.lv
in a late 19th-century Neo- to repair the town’s 17th-century
Classical residence, fea tures an Lutheran church, which houses The near-derelict buildings and
interesting exhibition on the Latvia’s oldest bell, made grounds of Pedvāle
Livs. The building’s original in 1450. Manor, a short
painted ceiling can be seen in Just 1 km (half walk uphill from
one of the rooms. a mile) from Sabile, were
Sabile centre is the bought by sculptor
Environs farmstead Drubazas, Ojars Feldbergs in
Laumas Nature Park, 20 km where you can 1991. A year later,
(12 miles) north, has several follow a 2-km they were opened as
walking and cycle paths. Guided (1-mile) guided walk Sculpture, Pedvāle the Pedvāle Open-Air
tours are available, including through forests and Open-Air Museum Museum, one of
one focusing on bees. It also marshes, and vist the Latvia’s most
has a camp site. farmhouse for wine tastings. interesting museums. Scattered
Sabile Wine Hill, Sabiles Vīna around the 100-ha (247-acre)
E Talsi Regional Museum Kalns, is said to be the northern- site are over 150 works by
K Mīlenbaha 19. Tel 2910 2628. most vine yard in the world. The Latvian and international artists.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & - strong and sour wine it produces Many of the artworks are
∑ talsumuzejs.lv was popular in the court of the designed specifically for the
museum during conferences
and workshops. The on-site
ticket office provides a map to
help visitors in their exploration.
Some of Feldbergs’s own work
can be found exhibited in the
attractively decaying estate
buildings at the far end of the
site, while other buildings
have been renova ted to
accommo date visiting artists.
The former manor house is
now a guest house open to
Picturesque view of Talsi with a canopy of trees rising behind the public.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp301–302 and pp322–4


182-183.indd 182 15/02/17 10:15 am

WESTERN LA T VIA  183


Environs
The Riežupe Sand Caves
(Riežupes smilšu alas), 4 km
(2 miles) north of Kuldīga, form
the longest cave system in
Latvia. A quarter of the 2-km
(1-mile) site is open to visitors.
E Kuldīga District Museum
Pils iela 5. Tel 6332 2364.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. &


s Pāvilosta
Rows of crosses marking the graves of German soldiers, near Saldus
Road Map B4. * 3,000. n Dzintaru
p Saldus capitalize on the river and a land iela 2, 6349 8229. _ Sea Festival (Jul).
route linking Prussia with the Founded in 1879, the small port
Road Map C4. * 11,000. £
n Striķu iela 3, 6380 7443. lower Daugava Valley. town of Pāvilosta was named
In the 16th century, Kuldīga’s after Paul Lilienfeld, Governor of
Set amid scenic countryside, castle was one of the residen ces Kurzeme from 1868 to 1885.
close to Lake Ciecere, Saldus is of Duke Gothard Kettler and the Tourist activities in Pāvilosta
best known for the Janis town traded with Rīga and revolve around the sea,
Rozentāls Museum of Jelgava. The streets near the including yacht and canoe hire
History and Art (Jaņa attractive old Town hall and trips out in a fishing boat.
Rozentāla Saldus Vēstures Square, running The surrounding area is also a
un Mākslas Muzejs). alongside the popular spot for wind surfing
Rozentāls (see p155), who Alekšupīte river, and is home to the country’s
was born near Saldus, feature 17th- and first world-class yacht marina,
reconstruc ted the 18th-century Pāvilosta Marina.
building in 1900. The timber buildings. Also The Local History Museum
artist’s home till 1901, it here are a couple of (Pāvilostas novadpētniecības
is now a museum that attractive churches,
showcases his works. St Catherine’s (Sv muzejs), located in the town’s
Temporary art exhibi- Katrīnas baznīca) and oldest building, exhibits
tions are housed in the Holy Trinity (Sv everyday items from the region
an adjacent building. Trīsvienības Katoļu and displays about local history
Statue of Janis baznīca). A short walk (in Latvian only).
Environs Rozentāls, Saldus away is the Venta
Vācu Karavīru Kapi, Waterfall (Ventas  Pāvilosta Marina
7 km (4 miles) south of town, is rumba), the widest in Europe. Ostmalas iela 4. Tel 6349 8581.
a war cemetery where German Close by is a 164-m (538-ft) brick ∑ pavilostamarina.lv
sol diers who died in Latvia were bridge, one of Europe’s longest. E Local History Museum
re-buried in a single place. Overlooking the river is Kuldīga Dzintaru iela 1. Tel 6349 8276. Open
District Museum (Kuldīgas mid-May–mid-Sep: 11am–5pm Wed–
E Janis Rozentāls Museum of novada muzejs), best known for Fri, noon–4pm Sat & Sun; mid-Sep–
History and Art its collection of playing cards. mid-May: 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. &
Striķu iela 22. Tel 6388 1547.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–4pm
Sat & Sun. &

a Kuldīga
Road Map B3. * 14,000. @ n
Baznīcas iela 5, 6332 2259. _ Town
Festival (mid-Jul). ∑ visit.kuldiga.lv
With a well-preserved Old Town
and an attractive loca tion
alongside the Venta river,
Kuldīga is one of Latvia’s most
alluring provincial towns. It was
founded in 1242 by the Livonian
Order, who chose the site to Ferries anchored at the harbour in the port town of Pāvilosta




182-183.indd 183 15/02/17 10:15 am

184  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

d Liepāja

Although Liepāja was officially declared a town in 1625, it
expanded only in the early 19th cen tury. The deepening of
the ice-free port and the building of a railway link were
followed, in 1890, by the foundation of a Tsarist naval port at
Karosta. Today, Liepāja is Latvia’s third-largest city and it has a
vibrant cultural life. It is dotted with many interesting sights,
most of which are located in its historic core. Many of the
city’s older buildings have been extensively restored. Beautifully carved Baroque altar of
St Anne’s Basilica
R Holy Trinity Church adorned with gilt detailing and R St Anne’s Basilica
Lielā iela 9. Tel 6342 2208. woodcarvings. The centrepiece Veidenbauma iela 1. Tel 6342 2208.
Open 10am– 6pm daily. & is an organ built in 1773 by First documented in 1508, the
donations. Organ recital: Jul: Sat H A Contius, a favourite organ current Neo-Gothic St Anne’s
(call for timings). builder of composer J S Bach. Basilica (Sv Annas baznīca) dates
The modest exterior of the Expanded in 1885, it was the only from the end of the 19th
mid-18th-century Holy Trinity world’s largest organ until 1912. century. The plain interior is
(Svētās Trīsvienības baznīca) Wooden steps lead up the dominated by the huge Baroque
belies one of the finest church clock tower for views. altar, carved for Duke Jakob
interiors in the Baltic region, Kettler (see p139) in 1697 by
House of Craftsmen Nicolas Sefrens. The altar painting
Dārza iela 4–8. Tel 2654 1424. depicts the Passion of Christ in
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat. = three panels, with the Crucifixion
With a wide variety of fine at the bottom, the wrapping of
handicrafts on sale, the House his body in the centre and the
of Craftsmen (Amatnieku Ascension at the top.
namiņš) is a place where
one can watch skilled artisans E Occupation Museum
as they weave traditional K Ukstiņa iela 7/9. Tel 6342 0274.
textiles. The world’s longest Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. ^
amber necklace, 123 m (404 ft) The interesting Occupation
long and weighing 60 kg Museum (Okupāciju režīmos)
(132 lb), is also on display, offers an absorbing account of
Details on the exterior of Holy along with photographs the city’s treatment at the hands
Trinity Church documenting its creation. of Nazi Germany and the Soviet

Liepāja Liepāja Airport
8 km (5 miles)
Railway Station KAROSTA
SAULES 800 m (875 yards)
1 Holy Trinity Church LAIVINIEKU CELTOLEKU KRUSTA GRAUDU KUGINIEKU Bus Station K ZĀLES
Liepāja
2 House of Craftsmen SPORTA K Ũ R M Ã J A S P R O S P E K T S J Ũ R A S I E L A 800 m (875 yards) LAUK
Museum
3 St Anne’s Basilica Liepāja
4 Occupation Beach AUSEKĻA
PASTA IELA TEATRA
Museum EIKOŊU Holy Trinity
5 St Joseph’s H I K A I E L A VĪTOLU IELA Church
KRIŠJĀŅA VA LDEMĀRA IELA A PUMPURA
Cathedral GRAUDU IELA L I E L Ā I E L A BAZNĪCAS
6 Liepāja Museum
REPUBLIKAS IELA STENDERA
T O M A I E L A
LUDVIĶA IELA ZIVJU IELA
VITES IELA
PELD U IELA
KUNGU IELA
House of
Ū L I H A I E L A
P E L D U I E L A
Nevsky Craftsmen
Seaside Church TOMA IELA St Joseph’s
Park LIEPU IELA ALEJAS Cathedral R A K STV E Ž U
SIENA IELA St Anne’s PALMU IELA BĀRIŅU IELA
Basilica
ROŽU IELA IELA
KURŠU
Occupation VEIDENBAUMA IELA
Alexander Ū L I H A I E L A
DZINTARU IELA
0 metres 250 J J A N Š E V S K A I E L A Museum PLAVU IELA
KRIŠJĀŅA VALDEMÃRA
0 yards 250 K UKSTIŅA
For keys to symbols see back flap
184-185_lieTCM.indd 184 15/02/17 10:15 am

WESTERN LA T VIA  185


Union, with copi ous notes VISITORS’ CHECKLIST f Lake Pape Nature
available in English. Exhibits Reserve
include everyday objects left Practical Information Papes dabas parks
behind by repa triated Baltic Road Map B4. * 85,750.
Germans at the start of World n Rožu Laukums 5/6, 6348 0808. Road Map B4. Tel 2616 7333.
War II, photo graphs of people ( daily. _ Piano Star Festival n Buši, Rucava village, 2913 4903;
deported en masse by the (Mar), Summer Sound (Jul), Bārtas iela 6, Nica, 6348 9501. & 8
∑ pdf-pape.lv
Soviets in June 1941 and an International Organ Music Festival
account of the killing of the (Sep). ∑ liepaja.travel
city’s Jews and other Transport Just 10 km (6 miles) from the
“undesirables”. k Cimdenieki, Lidostas iela 8. Lithuanian border, the wet lands,
The exhibition ends with a £ Rīgas iela. @ Rīgas iela. pine forests, dunes, grasslands
display about the events lead ing and coastline of the Lake Pape
up to independence. The offices EU Blue Flag. The long, sandy area make an excellent trip from
of the Popular Front, which was Liepāja Beach (Liepājas Liepāja. Sponsored by the World
based in the building, have been pludmale) is separated from Wide Fund for Nature, the
left intact. Rooms upstairs house the Old Town by the wooded reserve covers around 52,000 ha
an exhibition of antique Seaside Park (Jūrmalas parks). (128,495 acres), and is best
photographic equipment. The nearby streets are lined with known for its savvaļas zirgi
elegant Art Nouveau buildings (semi­wild horses) and sumbru
R St Joseph’s Cathedral that used to be summerhouses. ganības (European bison).
Rakstvežu iela 13. Tel 6342 9775. Guided tours, taking around 90
Decorated inside with scenes minutes, are available from the
from the Bible, the yellow St ticket office at the entrance to
Joseph’s Cathedral (Sv Jāzepa the sign posted grazing area.
katedrāle) attained its current The reserve is popular with
towering form in the 19th cen­ bird­watchers, due to its
tury. The congregation needed location on a migration path.
a larger church, but had no land Some 271 species have been
on which to build one, which is sighted here, 15 of which are
why they simply expanded the on the European Red List of
existing building upwards. endangered species. The area
is sparsely populated, although
E Liepāja Museum there are three villages within
Kūrmājas prospekts 16/18. Tel 6342 the reserve. One of them is the
2604. Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. & dune­enclosed settlement of
∑ liepajasmuzejs.lv Pape, home to Vītolnieki, a
Set amid a small sculpture Façade of St Nicholas’s Orthodox branch of the Latvian Ethno­
garden, the Liepāja Museum Cathedral, Karosta graphic Open­Air Museum
(Liepājas muzejs) is housed in (see p163).
Liepāja Airport
8 km (5 miles) an ornate early 20th­century Karosta
Railway Station KAROSTA
SAULES LAIVINIEKU CELTOLEKU KRUSTA GRAUDU KUGINIEKU 800 m (875 yards) K ZĀLES building with an impressive 4 km (2 miles) N of town. @ 3, 4, 7. E Vītolnieki
Bus Station
Liepāja
SPORTA K Ũ R M Ã J A S P R O S P E K T S J Ũ R A S I E L A 800 m (875 yards) LAUK galleried hall. The displays trace ∑ karosta.lv St Nicholas’s Orthodox Pape village. Tel 2926 2283.
Church: Katedrāles 7. Military Prison:
Museum
Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm Wed–
Liepāja local history, with exhi bits Invalīdu 4. & 8 Sun. 8 by appointment.
Beach AUSEKĻA including the heads of stone
PASTA IELA TEATRA cherubs from St Anne’s Basilica, A military harbour built by the
EIKOŊU
Holy Trinity a series of pewter drinking Russians during the late 19th
Church
VĪTOLU IELA GRAUDU IELA L I E L Ā I E L A BAZNĪCAS vessels topped by human century, Karosta was off­limits to
KRIŠJĀŅA VA LDEMĀRA IELA A PUMPURA is a reconstruction of the ghost­town feel, with streets of
H I K A I E L A
civilians. In its heyday, it housed
figures and traditional southern
REPUBLIKAS IELA STENDERA Kurzeme costumes. Also here 40,000 personnel. Today, it has a
T O M A I E L A
One reason for visiting Karosta
sculptor Mikelis Pankoks (1894–
LUDVIĶA IELA ZIVJU IELA workshop of the fam ous huge, unoccupied buildings.
1983), who vanished in 1944 is to see the striking onion­
VITES IELA
PELD U IELA
and was presumed dead. He domed St Nicholas’s Orthodox
KUNGU IELA
House of
Ū L I H A I E L A
P E L D U I E L A
Nevsky Craftsmen had fled the country incognito, Cathedral (Sv Nikolaja pareizti­
Seaside Church TOMA IELA St Joseph’s and ended his days in a Swiss cīgo catedrāle), used as a cinema
Park LIEPU IELA ALEJAS Cathedral R A K STV E Ž U mental hospital. and gym by the Soviets. The old
SIENA IELA St Anne’s PALMU IELA BĀRIŅU IELA L Liepāja Beach Military Prison (Karostas cietums)
is now the Kurzeme region’s
Basilica
ROŽU IELA IELA
KURŠU
Occupation VEIDENBAUMA IELA Although the coast here was major tourist attraction, offer ing
Alexander Ū L I H A I E L A
DZINTARU IELA
Museum PLAVU IELA once an environmental disaster a chance to be locked up and
J J A N Š E V S K A I E L A area, it has now been thoroughly yelled at by “guards” for a couple Bird-watching tower at the Lake Pape
KRIŠJĀŅA VALDEMÃRA
cleaned up and proudly flies its of hours or overnight. Nature Reserve
K UKSTIŅA
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp301–2 and pp323–4
184-185_lieTCM.indd 185 15/02/17 10:15 am

BT_186-187.indd 186 25/02/2015 13:35

LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION  187

EASTERN LATVIA


The eastern part of Latvia includes some of the country’s most
popular attractions, both natural and man-made, as well as
rarely visited rural districts. Although far from mountainous,
the terrain is not as flat here as in the west and there are two
extensive upland areas dotted with myriad lakes. Some of
these have well-developed tourist facilities, while others
remain isolated and untouched.
When the German crusaders arrived, best-known writers and musicians. Today
they found the Livs and Lettgallians Vidzeme is second only to Rīga as a
inhabiting the region which now forms travel destination, with the Gauja
Vidzeme, while Latgallians and Selians National Park com bining natural beauty
lived further east in what is now Latgale. and his torical attractions.
The Bishop of Rīga took control of the Latgale, on the other hand, was ruled
west and east of Vidzeme, while central by Poland until 1772. The Polish
Vidzeme and most of Latgale was influence fostered a strong Catholic
claimed by the Livonian Order. After the tradition, particularly evident in the
collapse of the Livonian Order in 1561 pilgrimage centre of Aglona. Latgale was
the whole of the east fell under later absorbed directly into the Russian
Lithuanian, and later Polish, rule. Empire, unlike other Latvian regions
The end of the Polish-Swedish Wars in which were ruled as separate provinces.
1629 saw Sweden ruling both Estonia This isolation from the rest of the country
and Vidzeme. The Russians conquered means that it has long been neglected
Vidzeme in 1721. Reliant economically as a predo minantly Russian backwater.
on agriculture, forestry and wood Despite this, its villages and serene lakes
processing, the region is sometimes charm visitors and the regional capital,
claimed as the cradle of Latvian culture Daugavpils, is slowly shaking off its
as it produced many of the country’s image as a grey Soviet throwback.

























Old houses and tower in Cēsis, a town steeped in history
Turaida Castle among the trees of Gauja National Park



BT_186-187.indd 187 25/02/2015 13:35

188  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Eastern Latvia

The most popular tourist attraction in Eastern Latvia is Gauja
National Park, which combines beautiful forests with attractions
such as the historic town of Cēsis and the restored Turaida Castle.
A significant part of the region is covered by the North Vidzeme
Biosphere Reserve, famous for its coastal meadows, sandstone
cliffs and extensive wetlands. The route from Rīga to Unguriņi
Daugavpils, the regional capital, runs along the
Daugava Valley and includes several worthwhile Pedele Tartu
stops, while the cathedral at Aglona is a major AINAŽI MAZSALACA Valka
centre for Catholic pilgrimage. For most visitors, Salaca Staicele Lake Rencēni Turna S eda Pskov
though, the main attraction in Latgale is its Burtnieks Zabolova
patchwork of lakes, which includes Rāzna and SALACGRĪVA Vilzēni Vijciems
Lubāns, the two largest in the country. Drieliņi V i d z e m e Abuls Gauja Gaujiena Alsviķi ALŪKSNE
Lāzbergi

Sights at a Glance LIMBAŽI Umurga VALMIERA Smiltene Palsa Vireši Gauja Liepna
Kuprava
o Rēzekne Jelgavkrasti Mālumuiža Jaunanna
Towns, Resorts and Villages GULBENE– Viļaka
2 Valmiera a Ludza DUNTE Vidriži Ūdrupe ALŪKSNE Kubuli Balvi
RAILWAY
s Vecpiebalga
3 Ainaži d Alūksne Skulte GAUJA NATIONAL Cēsis Rauna
4 Salacgrīva Inciems PARK Gulbene Pededze Balupe Čilipīne
5 Mazsalaca Sights of Interest SAULKRASTI Taurene Gauja Tirza Medņi
6 Limbaži 9 Ikšķile Baltinava
7 Dunte w Koknese Gauja Sigulda Ostrov
8 Saulkrasti f Gulbene–Alūksne Gauja Vangaži Skujene Inesis VECPIEBALGA
Lake
0 Lielvārde Railway Nītaure Ogre Lubāna Bērzpils Grebņeva
q Skrīveri Ķīšezers Mālpils Lautere Kuja Iča
e Jēkabpils National Park Ropaži Mergupe Līčupe Ērgļi Madona Lake Žogotas Goliševa
r Līvāni 1 Gauja National Park Rīga Lubāns
t Daugavpils pp200–1 pp190–93 Ķeipene Bērzaune Lazdona Zaļmežnieki Dricāni Aizpūre
y Krāslava Ogre Irši Malta Lake
u Aglona Tour IKŠĶILE Lake L Cirma Istalsna
i Preiļi p Latgale Lakes p202 Daugava LIELVĀRDE Odzes Aiviekste Grozas LUDZA
RĒZEKNE
KOKNESE Atašiene Viļāni Rēzekne AT G A L E LAKE S Ņukši Brigi
SKRĪVERI Kūkas
Troškas Čornaja
Taurkaene
JĒKABPILS Lake Rudzīši
Lake Nagļi Riebiņi Malta Rāzna
Piksteres Birži
Viesīte Daugava LĪVĀNI PREIĻI Puša Lake Čerņavski
Ežezers
L a t g a l e
Viesīte Dubna Aglonas Bērziņi
Ērberğe Zalve Jersika Stacija Rušons
Slate AGLONA Kapiņi Dagda
Nereta Aknīste
Špoği Asūne
Kalupe
Dviete
Subate KRĀSLAVA
Lociki
Svente Daugava Piedruja
DAUGAVPILS
Key
Motorway Silene
Demene
Main road
Secondary road Utena
Minor road
Railway
Sandstone cliffs on the banks of the Salaca river, Vidzeme International border
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–303 and pp324–5
188-189_ExploE_LAT.indd 188 15/02/17 10:15 am

EASTERN LA T VIA  189

Getting Around
The highlights of Gauja National Park are easily reached
by bus or train from Rīga, while even small towns in
Vidzeme usually have at least one bus a day. Rīga and
Daugavpils are well connected by buses and trains
that run several times a day. The public transport
network elsewhere in Latgale is not well developed
and it is easier to use a private vehicle, particularly
Unguriņi
when exploring the lakes. Bus services link all the
towns, but services are not very frequent.
Tartu
MAZSALACA Pedele Valka
AINAŽI Staicele
Salaca Burtnieks Rencēni Turna S eda Pskov
Lake
V i d z e m e Abuls Gaujiena Alsviķi ALŪKSNE
SALACGRĪVA Vilzēni Zabolova
Drieliņi Gauja Vijciems Lāzbergi
VALMIERA
Smiltene Vireši Liepna
LIMBAŽI Umurga Palsa Gauja Kuprava
Jelgavkrasti Mālumuiža GULBENE– Jaunanna Viļaka
DUNTE ALŪKSNE Kubuli
Vidriži Rauna Ūdrupe RAILWAY Balvi
Skulte GAUJA NATIONAL Cēsis Gulbene
Inciems PARK Pededze Balupe Čilipīne
SAULKRASTI Taurene Gauja Tirza Medņi Baltinava
Gauja Ostrov
Gauja Sigulda Lake VECPIEBALGA
Vangaži Skujene Inesis
Nītaure Ogre Bērzpils Grebņeva
Lautere Kuja Lubāna
Ķīšezers Mālpils Iča
Ropaži Mergupe Līčupe Ērgļi Madona Lake Goliševa
Lubāns Žogotas
Rīga
Ķeipene
Bērzaune Lazdona Zaļmežnieki Dricāni Aizpūre
Irši Malta Lake
Ogre
IKŠĶILE Lake L Cirma
Odzes Istalsna
LIELVĀRDE Aiviekste Grozas LUDZA Brigi
RĒZEKNE
Daugava
KOKNESE Atašiene Viļāni Rēzekne AT G A L E LAKE S Ņukši
SKRĪVERI Kūkas
Troškas Čornaja
Taurkaene
JĒKABPILS Lake Rudzīši
Lake Nagļi Riebiņi Malta Rāzna
Piksteres Birži
Viesīte Daugava LĪVĀNI PREIĻI Puša Lake Čerņavski
Ežezers
L a t g a l e
Viesīte Dubna Aglonas Bērziņi
Ērberğe Zalve Jersika Stacija Rušons
Slate AGLONA Kapiņi Dagda
Nereta Aknīste
Špoği Asūne
Kalupe
Dviete
Subate KRĀSLAVA
Lociki
Svente Daugava Piedruja
DAUGAVPILS
Key
Motorway Silene
Demene
Main road
Secondary road Utena
Minor road 0 kilometres 20
Railway 0 miles 20
International border
For keys to symbols see back flap
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190  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

1 Gauja National Park
Valmiera
Latvia’s first and most popular national park was established
in 1973 and stretches for about 100 km (62 miles) along the Gulf of Cēsis
Gauja River Valley. But the area has been attracting tourists to Rīga
its so-called “Alpine trails” since the 19th century. Almost half Sigulda Gauja
Area of the
of the 92,000-ha (227,337-acre) park is forested, and it is home map illustrated
to about 900 plant, 149 bird and 48 mammal species. Around LATVIA
4 per cent of the park forms a closed nature reserve, but the
rest is accessible by road. Canoeing and boating are great Key
ways to see the caves, cliffs and ravines carved out by the river Gauja National Park
since the glaciers receded 12,000 years ago. In addition to its
natural attactions, the area also has some of Latvia’s most
fascinating historic sites (see pp192–3).
Lake
Ungurs



Lielstraupe





Gaujasmala
Inčiems
. Turaida Museum Reserve
The extensively restored Turaida Castle houses historical exhibitions,
while the grounds include outbuildings and a sculpture park.
Gauja






Turaida

Sigulda
Ragana

New Castle in Sigulda
This fanciful manor house was built in 1867 near
the ruins of a Livonian Order castle, where there is
now an open-air stage.
Gauja
0 km 5
0 miles 5
Bobsleigh Run
Key
Sigulda offers a rare
Major road chance to experience
Minor road the thrill of a world-class
bobsleigh run at a
Other road
reasonable price. In
Railway line summer, a slower,
Park boundary wheeled vehicle is used.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp324–5

190-191_SSGNP.indd 190 15/02/17 10:15 am

EASTERN LA T VIA  191

. Līgatne
Education and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Recreation Centre
Inside the park, Practical Information
footpaths and tracks Road Map D3. n Gauja
for vehicles wind National Park Visitors’ Centre,
past spacious Turaidas iela 2a, Sigulda, 2665
enclo sures housing 7661. 8 guided canoe trips
ani mals, including organized by Campo in Rīga (2922
elk, brown bears and 2339), Makars in Sigulda (2924
European bison. 4948).  ∑ entergauja.com
Transport
£ from Rīga. @ from Rīga.


Cēsis
Lake
Ungurs
Raiskums
Cīrulīši
Lake
Āraiši

Drabeši
Kārļi
. Cēsis
Amata
Once the seat of the German
Gaujasmala Skaļupe Zvārte Rock crusaders, Cēsis is a romantic town
with a lakeside park.
leriķi
Līgatne

Līgatne
Augšligatne





Zvārte Rock, a
35-m (115-ft) high Lake Āraiši
sandstone outcrop, boasts Archaeologists found the remains of a fortress on the lake bed
excellent views. It is locally here. This reconstruction of it offers a glimpse into Latgallian
believed to be a haunt of life in the 9th and 10th centuries.
witches and demons.

The Rose of Turaida
According to a popular legend, in 1601 a young
orphan girl found in the aftermath of a battle
between the Swedish and Polish armies was
named Maija and raised in Turaida Castle. She fell
in love with Viktor, a gardener from Sigulda Castle.
One day a deserter from the Polish army
lured Maija into the nearby Gūtmaņa Cave under
false pretences, but she tricked him into killing
her rather than surrendering her chastity. The
so-called grave of the Turaida Rose in the Turaida
Museum Reserve is considered a rom antic spot Gravestone of the Turaida Rose, the
for newlyweds. beautiful Maija

For keys to symbols see back flap


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192  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Gauja National Park extensively res tored. Plaques
help visitors to understand the
The park follows the Gauja River Valley as it flows southwest site, while exhi bitions inside
from Valmiera. Road access to the park is good, with the A2 deal with the history of
and A3 running alongside. The most convenient access points the castle and illus trate the
from Rīga are Sigulda, where the park infor mation office is restoration process. Near
the museum entrance are the
located, and Cēsis. In addition to hotels and guesthouses remains of the Turaida estate,
along the major routes and close to the tourist sites, the park as well as a working smithy
includes a network of 22 campsites. They are arranged along and exhibitions on farming
the Gauja, Amata and Brasla rivers, making canoeing an and woodcraft.
appealing way to see the area. The stretch between Sigulda Close to the castle is the
Turaida Church. Built in 1750, it
and Cēsis is particularly attractive.
is one of the oldest wooden
churches in Latvia. Outside is a
Sigulda memorial to the Turaida Rose
£ from Rīga. @ from Rīga. (see p191) and tucked away
n Train station, Ausekla iela 6, behind the church is the Folk
6797 1335. ∑ sigulda.lv Song Park (Dainu kalns), where
A spacious town set in scenic 25 sculptures celebrate the
woodland, Sigulda is a centre work of Krišjānis Barons (see
for outdoor activities and is p155). Nature trails lead down
also a good base for visiting slopes from the park.
Krimulda and Turaida. After
the Brotherhood of the Sword Cēsis
subdued the Liv population 35 km (22 miles) NE of Sigulda.
in 1207, they gave the valley’s £ from Rīga. @ from Rīga.
right bank to the Bishop of Rīga n Pils laukums 9, 6412 1815.
and built their own castle on ∑ tourism.cesis.lv
the left bank. The Brotherhood, Cable car carrying visitors from Sigulda Museum of Art and History: Pils
renamed the Livonian Order, to Krimulda laukums 9. Open May–Sep: 10am–
lost the town to the Poles in 6pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm Tue–
Sun. & inc New Castle. 8 =
1562, and it passed between now a rehabilitation centre
the Poles and Swedes for for children, with a café and One of the oldest towns in
150 years until it was taken by basic accommodation. Latvia, Cēsis has winding streets
Russia in the Great Northern lined with attractive wooden
War (1700–21). + Turaida Museum Reserve and stone buildings. It was once
The castle ruins are tucked 6 km (4 miles) N of Sigulda. @ from an important trading centre,
away behind the 19th-century Sigulda. Tel 6797 2376. Open May– becoming a member of the
New Castle (Jaunā pils) and Oct: 9am–8pm daily; Nov–Apr: Hanseatic League in 1383.
its fine gardens. Close by is 10am–5pm daily. & 8 5 11am Sun. The town served as the
a Lutheran church and the - = ∑ turaida-muzejs.lv headquarters of the Brothers
impressive viewpoint called The Turaida Museum Reserve of the Sword, and later the
Artists’ Hill (Gleznotāju kalns). mainly consists of a castle and Livonian Order, for much of the
Paths run through the woodland a group of outbuildings. period between 1237 and 1561.
to Satzele Castle Mound, once a Turaida Castle was built by the In 1577, Ivan the Terrible took
Liv fortress, and Peter’s Cave on Brotherhood of the Sword in Cēsis. Further damage was
the bank of the Vējupīte river. 1214. It was left in ruins after a inflicted during the Great
fire in 1776 and has since been Northern War and the town also
Krimulda
@ from Sigulda.  from Sigulda
9am–5pm Mon–Fri. n 6797 2232.
8 - ∑ krimuldaspils.lv
The Bishop of Rīga had a castle
built in Krimulda after taking
control of the right bank of the
Gauja Valley in 1207. Krimulda
Castle (Krimuldas pils) was
destroyed by the Swedish army
in 1601, and little remains of
the ruins. It is easier to spot
the nearby 19th-century
Neo-Classical manor house
(Krimuldas muižas pils). It is The Cēsis castle complex contains some of the most impressive ruins in the Baltic States
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–303 and pp324–5


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EASTERN LA T VIA  193






















Picturesque view of the wooden dwellings of Āraiši Lake Fortress
witnessed extremely fierce Lake Āraiši, now reconstructed Y Līgatne Education and
fighting during the War of as a tourist sight. A wooden Recreation Centre
Independence (1918–20). platform holds 16 single-room 15 km (9 miles) NE of Sigulda. @ from
The Cēsis Castle complex is the dwellings with log walls and bark Cēsis. Tel 6415 3313. Open May–Sep:
town’s major attraction. Visitors roofs. Each of them could 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7pm Sat &
are given builders’ accommodate three Sun; Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm daily. &
helmets and lanterns for to eight people. A clay ∑ visitligatne.lv
the tour of the 15th- to stove was used for A wooded nature park, Līgatne
16th-century towers of heating and cook ing, Education and Recreation Park
the 13th-century Old while a small structure (Līgatnes mācību un atpūtas
Castle. The pink New to the right of each parks) is home to the likes of
Castle, built in 1777, is doorway was used brown bears, lynx, beavers, elk
home to the Museum for storage or to and European bison. Large
of Art and History keep cattle. enclosures are connec ted by
(Cēsu vēstures un Sign, Līgatne Education Today, guides in 5.5 km (3.4 miles) of walking
mākslas muzejs). The and Recreation Centre costume re-create the trails and a 5-km (3-mile) route
highlight is the well- atmosphere of the for vehicles. The site includes
presented “Treasures of Cēsis” settlement, and a dug out boat a 22-m (72-ft) viewing tower,
exhibition. Cēsis Exhibition House can be hired. Back on shore is a horse-riding facilities, spots
(Cēsu izstāžu nams), a renovated ruined Livonian Order castle and for campfires and several car
18th-century coach house, seve ral reconstructed Stone, parks. Dogs are not allowed
stands on the square in front of Bronze and Iron Age dwellings. on the trails.
the New Castle. To the north, the
Castle Park is a pop ular place to The Latvian Flag
relax in the sum mer, while the
Old Town is to the southeast of According to tradition, the Latvian
the castle. national flag was born in Cēsis around
Other attractions include the 1280. The story goes that warriors from
19th-century Cēsis Brewery, one of the Latvian tribes wrapped their
although the beer is now brewed dying chieftain in a white flag, which
outside the town. they had captured from their Estonian
enemies. After giving a stirring speech,
+ Āraiši Lake Fortress the chieftain died and the warriors
10 km (6 miles) S of Cēsis. Tel 6410 removed the flag from his body to find
that his blood had left two red stripes
7080. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily; on it; the white stripe in the middle was
Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm daily. & 8 where he had lain. The warriors took the
Tales of sunken castles are new flag into battle and defeated their
common in Latvian folklore, enemies. The present-day version of the
appearing to stem from the flag was designed by artist Ansis Cīrulis
9th- to 10th-century Latgallian in May 1917. The Museum of Art and
practice of building settlements History in Cēsis has an exhibition Latvian flag hoisted on the New
on islets. In 1965, arch aeologists dedicated to the Latvian flag. Castle, Sigulda
found one such settlement in




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194  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION


tower for a view of the city. Fire-fighters’ Museum (Ainažu
Just beyond the church lie ugunsdzēsības muzejs).
the ruins of the Livonian Exhibits in the main building
Order castle and the Museum include hand-operated water
of Local Studies (Valmieras pumps, uniforms and insignia,
novadpētniecības muzejs). The while the garage displays fire
museum covers local history trucks. The museum staff are
and hosts exhibitions. Close by former fire-fighters.
is the city’s oldest wooden
building, a former pharmacy E Naval College Museum
built in 1735. Valdemāra iela 47. Tel 6404 3349.
Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun;
Oct–Apr: 11am–5pm Tue–Sat. &
R St Simon’s Church
Bruņinieku iela 2. Tel 6420 0333. E Fire-fighters’ Museum
Forlorn remains of the Livonian Order castle Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. Valdemāra iela 69. Tel 6404 3280.
in Valmiera Open May–Sep: 10am–4pm Tue–Sat,
E Museum of Local Studies 10am–2pm Sun; Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm
2 Valmiera Bruņinieku iela 3. Tel 6422 3620. Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. &
Road Map D3. * 30,000. £ from
Rīga. @ from Cēsis. n Rīgas iela 10,
6420 7177. _ Winter Music Festival 3 Ainaži
(Jan), City Festivities (Aug), St Simeon’s
Fair of the Middle Ages (Oct), Road Map D2. * 1,800.
Christmas Market (Dec). @ from Cēsis. n Valdemara iela 49a,
∑ visit.valmiera.lv 6404 3241. ∑ salacgriva.lv
Once a Hanseatic League Close to the Estonian border,
member, Valmiera was founded Ainaži occupies a crucial place
in 1283 and has a distinguished in Latvia’s maritime his tory. For
history of trade due to its centuries, the coast line was
position on the Gauja river. sparsely inhabited, justifying the
Today, it is the second-largest town’s name, which is derived
city in Vidzeme after Rīga, but its from the Livonian word ainagi Striking snowcapped Liv Sacrificial Caves
Old Town was devastated in meaning “solitary”. However, by near Salacgrīva
World War II. Most sights of the 19th century, it had
interest are clustered together become an important fishing 4 Salacgrīva
beside the river, just east of the centre, and in 1864, was chosen Road Map D3. * 6,000. @ from
city’s main roundabout. by Krišjānis Valdemārs as the Rīga. n Rīgas iela 10a, 6404 1254.
The 13th-century St Simon’s location for his naval school, _ Positivus Music Festival (Jul).
Church (Sv Sīmaņa baznīca) which closed only in 1919 ∑ tourism.salacgriva.lv
has been destroyed several during the civil war. The ori ginal
times and its current appear- school building is now the Positioned at the mouth of the
ance dates from 1739. The Naval College Museum (Ainažu Salaca river, the fishing port of
altarpiece shows a depiction of jūrskolas muzejs), which displays Salacgrīva officially became a
the Temptation of Christ by photographs, documents, town in 1928. There is evidence
Christiana Vogels-Vogelstein. model ships and a collection of that German traders may have
Visitors can climb the church anchors. Ainaži also boasts the visited the Salaca before reaching
the Daugava river. Salacgrīva is a
good jumping-off point for
exploring the area nearby.
Environs
On the banks of the Svētupe
river, 10 km (6 miles) east of
town, are the Liv Sacrificial
Caves (Lībiešu upurala). Coins
and artifacts dating from the
14th to the 19th centuries have
been found here, and there are
runes carved into the walls.
The Randu Meadows (Randu
pļavas), about 8 km (5 miles)
north of Salacgrīva, are rich in
Nautical objects displayed in the garden of the Naval College Museum, Ainaži birdlife and rare plants.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–303 and pp324–5


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EASTERN LA T VIA  195


5 Mazsalaca
Road Map D2. * 1,200. @ from
Rīga. n Rūjienas iela 1, 2837 4774.
∑ mazsalaca.lv
This sleepy town has little to
detain visitors, except for the
Mazsalaca Regional Museum,
with its unusual collec tion
of wood carvings on a Satanic
theme by Valters Hirte. It is
an ideal base, though, for
exploring nearby attractions,
such as the spookily named
Werewolf Pine and Devil’s
Caves, 2 km (1 mile) from town,
where the spring water is said
to have healing powers.
Skaņaiskalns (Sound Hill),
a sandstone cliff southwest
of Mazsalaca, is noted for its
echoes. It can be reached via a
park full of wooden sculp tures,
which can be viewed on the
drive through, but are better
seen on foot. The 2-km (1-mile)
path begins at the Valtenburg
manor house (now a school) on
Parka Street.
E Mazsalaca Regional Museum The Orthodox Church in Limbaži, dating back to the early 20th century
Rīgas iela 1. Tel 6425 1781.
Open May–Oct: 11am–4pm Wed– Limbaži’s stone castle, built display of artifacts that recount
Sun; Nov–Apr: 11am–4pm Tue–Thu. by the Brotherhood of the the region’s history. Close by is
Sword in 1223, served as the 1903 Orthodox Church,
the Archbishop of Rīga’s which still retains some of its
residence. A town grew up original splendour. A statue of
around the castle and formed Kārlis Baumanis, composer of
part of the Hanseatic League. the national anthem, stands in
The castle, now in ruins, was Jūras Street.
destroyed in the 1602 Polish-
Swedish War. E Museum of Regional Studies
Offering tours of the castle Burtnieku iela 7. Tel 6407 0632.
ruins is the Museum of Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sat;
Regional Studies (Limbažu Nov–Apr: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat.
Carved wooden soldiers in the park leading muzejs), with its fascinating 8 for castle. =
to Skaņaiskalns, Mazsalaca
Krišjānis Valdemārs
6 Limbaži One of the key figures of the Latvian National
Awakening, Krišjānis Valdemārs (1825–91) was
Road Map D3. * 9,200.
@ from Rīga. n Torņa iela 3, 6407 a writer, educationist, political thinker and
ideologist. During Valdemārs’s time the majority
0608. ∑ visitlimbazi.lv
of Latvian literary works were written by Baltic
Although it is one of Latvia’s Germans, and he sought to change this. From
oldest towns, Limbaži has 1862 until its suppression in 1865, Valdemārs
edited a Latvian-language publication, Pēterburgas
retained little of its prosperous Avīzes, alongside Krišjānis Barons and poet Juris
past. The area, which was Alunāns, which criticized the Baltic German sense
known during the 13th of cultural superiority. He encouraged Barons and
century as Metsepole (Indriķis Fricis Brīvzemnieks to start a Latvian folk songs
in Latvian), was one of three collection (see pp28–9), and was instrumental
Liv territories mentioned in the in establishing the Ainaži Naval College, where Valdemārs’s bust,
early 13th-century chronicle tuition was free and not dependent on social status. Naval Museum
written by Henry of Livonia.


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196  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION





















House set amid idyllic scenery reflected in one of the many clear-water lakes near Dunte
7 Dunte guesthouses along the main 9 Ikšķile
road. Nonetheless, it remains a
Road Map D3. * 2,890. @ from Road Map D3. * 6,250.
Valmiera. popular getaway for Rīga £ from Rīga. @ from Rīga.
residents. The main activity is
Pretty and close to the coast, walking along the coastline, In the mid­12th century, the
Dunte is known for the and a trail stretching for 4 km Augustinian monk Father
Münchausen Museum (2 miles) has several viewing Meinhard, the first Bishop of
dedicated to Karl Friedrich points, including a platform on Ikšķile, accompanied German
Hieronymus von Münchhausen the White Dune (Baltā kāpa). merchants along the Daugava
(1720–97). An officer in the The privately river. He built
Russian cavalry, Baron Münch­ owned Bicycle St Mary’s Church
hausen married a local woman Museum here, the first church
and visited Dunte on his (Saulkrastu in the territo ries of
honeymoon. He became unwit­ velosipēdu muzejs) Latvia’s tribes. The
tingly famous when a collection is housed in a large local Livs resisted
of fantastical stories featuring shed in the owners’ being con verted to
him was published anonymously garden. The superb Christianity and
in 1781, and his association with collection, a work of Meinhard made little
exaggeration continues to this many years, features headway. The church
day. Museum staff dress in oddities such as a Cycle badges at Bicycle was the first stone
period costumes, and one room wooden bicycle Museum, Saulkrasti building in the
is a fanciful reconstruction of his made by an aero­ Baltics, and its ruins
wife’s boudoir. A screen shows a plane engineer. There are also have been covered with a metal
1943 German film adaptation mock­ups of a repairs workshop roof to protect them from the
of his tales. Upstairs are wax­ and a shop of bicycle parts. ele ments. Following the
works of famous Latvians. cons truction of a hydro electric
E Bicycle Museum dam on the river, the ruins
E Münchausen Museum Rīgas iela 44a. Tel 2888 3160. stand on an island, although
Duntes Manor. Tel 6406 5633. Open Open call in advance. & there is nothing much to see.
May–Oct: 10am–5pm daily (to 6pm
Sat & Sun); Nov–Apr: 10am– 5pm Sat
& Sun, by appt Wed–Fri. & 8 =

8 Saulkrasti
Road Map D3. * 5,550. £ from
Rīga. @ from Rīga. n Ainažu iela 13b,
6795 2641. _ Town Festival (Jul),
International Jazz Festival (Jul), Organ
Music Festival (Aug). ∑ saulkrasti.lv
A seaside resort since the
19th century, Saulkrasti is little
more than a string of homes and Ruins of St Mary’s Church in Ikšķile, one of Latvia’s earliest churches
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–303 and pp324–5


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EASTERN LA T VIA  197

0 Lielvārde Andrejs Pumpurs and Lāčplēšis
Road Map D4. * 7,350. @ from
Rīga. n Edgara Kauliņa aleja 20, 6505 Born in Birzgale, close to
3759. _ Regional Festival (Jul), Lielvārde, Andrejs Pumpurs
Birthday of Andrejs Pumpurs (Sep). (1841–1902) was an unlikely
∑ lielvarde.lv literary figure. Working on
the land before volunteering
The town of Lielvārde is best to fight in Serbia against the
known as the site of the climactic Ottoman Empire in 1876, he
battle between the heroic became a loyal officer in the
Lāčplēšis and the Black Knight. Russian army but was also a
The conflict ended when the two Mural of Lāčplēšis and Laimdota at the Andrejs staunch promoter of Latvian
culture. Convinced of the
warriors disap peared into the Pumpurs Museum need for a national epic, he
Daugava river close to an early chose the folk story of
13th-century castle, the ruins of Lāčplēšis the Bear Slayer, whose mixed animal-human parentage is
which stand on a hillock. Tall evident in his bear-like ears. Pumpurs also drew from Latvian folklore to
wooden sculptures nearby create a strongly allegorical plot filled with demons and witches.
illustrate Lāčplēšis’s story, while a Lāčplēšis defeats the Estonian giant Kalapuisis and convinces him of the
pair of large stones are said to be need to work together against their foreign foes. Towards the end of the
the bed and blanket of the hero, epic, Lāčplēšis unites the Latvian people and repels the invaders, but the
who reputedly returns to the wicked turncoat Kangars reveals the hero’s secret – his strength is in his
bank each night to sleep. ears. The Black Knight, a Germanic giant, cuts off Lāčplēšis’s ears,
Also close to the river is the plunging Latvia into 700 long years of misery. The story goes that
Andrejs Pumpurs Museum Lāčplēšis will rise again after he defeats his rival.
(Andreja Pumpura muzejs),
dedicated to the eminent writer.
A small display is devo- Upīša memoriālmajā), w Koknese
ted to Lielvārdes josta. which draws visitors inte- Road Map D4. * 3,000. £ from
These belts, used in tra di- rested in Latvian litera- Rīga. @ n Melioratoru iela 1, 6516
tional weddings, are for ture. The exhibition about 1296. _ International Folk Music
sale at the museum. the noted author, critic Festival (Jul). ∑ koknese.lv
At the western end of and Communist polemi-
town is Uldevena Castle cist is displayed in his Once the main settlement
(Uldevena pils), a former home. The Tree of the Selonian tribe, which
reconstruction of a Park (Dendroloğiskais was subjugated by the
wooden Liv fortifica tion. parks) close to Skrīveri is Livonian Order in 1208,
It was built in 1997 to the a pleasant, peaceful Koknese also appears in the
design of a local artist place to wander, its tale of Lāčplēšis as the home
and takes elements paths run ning through of Laimdota – the beautiful
from other structures, forests made up of and virtuous young woman
thus repre senting an Wooden sculpture almost 400 species of with whom the hero falls in
“ideal” rather than a of Lāčplēšis tree from around the love. Today, the picturesque
single castle. world. Each one has ruins of the Livonian Order
been tagged with both its castle, built in 1209 but
Latvian and Latin names. destroyed during the Great
E Andrejs Pumpurs Museum
E Kauliņa aleja 20. Tel 6505 3759. Northern War (1700–21),
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (Nov–Apr: E Andrejs Upīts Memorial makes Koknese popular with
11am–3pm Sun). & 8 Museum visitors. The site was even more
+ Uldevena Castle Daugavas iela 58. Tel 6519 7221. attractive before a hydro-
electric power station was built
Open mid-May–Oct: 10am–5pm
Parka iela 3. Tel 2946 5792. Open Apr– Tue–Sun. & ∑ upisamuzejs.lv on the Daugava river in 1965.
Nov: 10am–6pm Thu–Sun. & 8
q Skrīveri
Road Map D4. * 4,000. £ from
Rīga. n A.Upīša iela 1, 2837 3530.
∑ skriveri.lv
Although the town has a long
history, Skrīveri was devas tated
during World War I. Its main
attraction is the Andrejs Upīts
Memorial Museum (Andreja Livonian Order castle with the Daugava river in the distance, Koknese




196-197.indd 197 15/02/17 10:15 am

198  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION


During the post-war era, the
Soviet regime built large bio-
chemical and construction faci-
lities, many of which became
obsolete after independence.
Recent efforts to improve the
town’s fortunes include the
establishment of the Latgale
Art and Craft Centre, which
hosts exhibitions, besides con-
ducting ceramics and weaving
workshops for visitors.
E Glass Museum
Domes 1b. Tel 6538 1855. Open Jun–
Neo-Byzantine St Nicholas’s Orthodox Church in Jēkabpils Aug: Tue–Sun; Sep–May: Tue–Sat. &
= ∑ latgalesamatnieki.lv
e Jēkabpils and one of them displays E Latgale Art and Craft Centre
Russian military memorabilia. Domes 1. Tel 6538 1855.
Road Map D4. * 28,000. Open Tue–Sat. & 7 =
£ from Rīga. @ from Rīga, R St Nicholas’s Orthodox Church
Daugavpils. n Brīvības iela 140/142, Brīvības iela 202. Tel 6522 3886.
6523 3822. ∑ jekabpils.lv t Daugavpils
E Mans’s Gallery
Founded as a settlement for Old Brīvības iela 154. Tel 6523 1953. Open See pp200–201.
Believers (see p126), Jēkabpils 9am–6pm Mon–Sat. ∑ manss.lv
received town rights from Jakob E Selian Farmstead
Kettler, Duke of Courland (see
p139), in 1670. Filozofu iela 6. Tel 6522 1042. y Krāslava
Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri,
In the town centre, the Neo- 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. & Road Map E4. * 11,500. @ from
Byzantine St Nicholas’s Ortho- Daugavpils. n Pils iela 2, 6562 2201.
dox Church (Sv Nikolaja + Krustpils Castle ∑ visitkraslava.com
pareizticīgo baznīca) was built Rīgas iela 216b. Tel 6522 1042.
in 1910. Close by, the large Open May–Oct: 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, Attractively set alongside the
private Mans’s Gallery was one 10am–5pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Apr: Daugava river, the town of
of the first to open in post- 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat Krāslava is largely composed of
Soviet Latvia. East of the centre, & Sun. ∑ jekabpilsmuzejs.lv two-storey wooden build ings.
the Selian Farmstead (Sēļu Although there are few specific
sēta) is an open-air museum r Līvāni sights to draw visitors, it is a
with 19th-century buildings, pleasant place to visit.
including a farm house, a smithy Road Map E4. * 11,000. £ Standing on an artificial hill,
and a windmill. n Domes iela 1b, 6538 1856. the 1750 Baroque Krāslava Castle
On the opposite side of the _ Town Festival (Jul), International (Krāslavas pils) houses the
Daugava river lies the 13th-cen- Folk Festival (Sep). ∑ livani.lv Krāslava Museum, dedica ted
tury Krustpils Castle (Krustpils to local arts and history. The
pils). Destroyed during the With a long history as an indus- Catholic Church (Katoļu baznīca)
Livonian Wars (1558–83), it was trial centre, Līvāni takes pride in stands on the town’s other hill. It
reconstruc ted in 1585 and mod- its glass factory, which opened is the finest of the Baroque build-
ified in 1849. Though the castle in 1887. The on-site Glass ings in Latgale. Its imposing
is largely dilapidated, several of Museum (Stikla muzejs) offers fresco, depicting St Ludovik leav-
its rooms have been restored, glass-blowing demonstrations. ing for the Crusades, was painted













Krāslava town, with rows of pretty houses along the Daugava river
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–303 and pp324–5


198-199.indd 198 15/02/17 10:15 am