(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Estonia Latvia & Lithuania

WHERE T O ST A Y IN EST ONIA  299

OTEPÄÄ: Pühajärve Spa & interesting example of Stalinist VILJANDI: Just Rest
Holiday Resort €€ Neo-Baroque architecture. The Automatic Hostel €
Spa hotel Road Map E2 rooms are spacious, but rather Hostel Road Map D2
Pühajärve, 67414 dated and sparsely furnished. Ranna puiestee 6, 71003
Tel 766 5500 Tel 520 6772
∑ pyhajarve.com SUUR MUNAMÄGI: Haanjamehe ∑ justrest.eu
In a beautiful location, this hotel Talu € A fantastic hostel with automated
offers a range of wellness and Guesthouse Road Map E2 check-in and space-age styling.
beauty treatments, as well as Vakari village, Haanja parish, 65101 Rooms with one to four beds have
billiards, a bowl ing alley, a gym Tel 786 6043 bathrooms and secure lockers.
and a large pool. ∑ haanjamehetalu.ee
This cosy log-built farmstead VILJANDI: Grand
PÕLTSAMAA: Guesthouse Carl offers accommodation in Hotel Viljandi €€
Schmidt € converted granaries or in the Modern Road Map D2
Guesthouse Road Map D2 main house. Activities include Tartu 11, 71004
Kesk 4, 48105 local excursions, kayaking Tel 435 5800
Tel 5346 8303 and – depending on the ∑ ghv.ee
This well-run establishment in the season – sleigh or carriage rides. An opulent hotel in an Art Deco
town centre has its own pub and building with classically styled
a delightfully rustic interior. DK Choice rooms and good fitness facilities. A
Rooms are on the small side, but morning sauna session is included.
the friendly service compensates. TAEVASKOJA: Taevaskoja
Salamaa € VÕRU: Hämsaare Guesthouse €
PÕLVA: Hotel Pesa € Guesthouse Road Map E2 Guesthouse Road Map E2
Modern Road Map E2 Taevaskoja tee 32, Põlva parish, Meegomäe village, 65603
Uus 5, 63308 63229 Tel 5551 5759
Tel 799 8530 Tel 5345 6480 ∑ hamsa.ee
∑ kagureis.ee ∑ salamaa.eu This 19th-century log farmhouse
The congenial Hotel Pesa has Tucked away in the woods, is now an idyllic lodging with
comfortable rooms and a large this simple, peaceful guest- cosy rooms and a rustic tavern
pool with separate children’s pool. house makes for the perfect serving traditional Estonian fare.
Local excursions can be arranged. rural retreat. Rooms are
individually furnished with folk- VÕRU: Kubija Hotel and
RAKVERE: Hotell Wesenbergh € tale themes and, with families Nature Spa €
Modern Road Map D1 in mind, come with bunk beds. Spa hotel Road Map E2
Tallinna 25, 44311 Alternatively, visitors can pitch a Männiku 43a, 65603
Tel 322 3480 tent at the campsite. There’s a Tel 504 5745
∑ wesenbergh.ee large shared kitchen and a great ∑ kubija.ee
Named after the local castle, this outdoor play area complete This tranquil hotel in a forest has
hotel is smartly furnished to a with trampoline and swings. five pools, four saunas and an
high standard. Several rooms Kayaking, cycling and hiking are abundance of wellness treatments.
come with a private sauna. among the activities on offer. Remarkably good value.
RÕUGE: Rõuge Suurjärve € VÕRU: Piusa Ürgoru
Guesthouse Road Map E2 TARTU: Antonius Hotel €€ Holiday Centre €
Metsa 5, 66201 Luxury Road Map E2 Guesthouse Road Map E2
Tel 785 9273 Ülikooli 15, 51003 Väiko-Härma village, Meremäe
∑ maremajutus.ee Tel 737 0377 parish, 65354
A great base for exploring the ∑ hotelantonius.ee Tel 528 9134
sur rounding area, this wooden In a meticulously restored ∑ puhkemaja.ee
guesthouse has simple, comfort- 16th-century house, this very A village-like complex with a main
able rooms and rustic-style break- atmospheric Old Town hotel house, con vert ed granary, several
fast. Lunch and dinner on request. features antique furniture and log cabins and a campsite. Trout
exposed beams. Excellent service. fishing and a traditional sauna.
SANGASTE MANOR: Sangaste
Castle Hotel €€
Historic Road Map D2
Lossi village, Sangaste parish, 67005
Tel 529 5911
∑ sangasteloss.com
This redbrick manor, built in
English Gothic Revival style,
offers wonderfully atmos pheric
rooms with high ceilings and
old wooden beams.
SILLAMÄE: Hotel Krunk €€
Modern Road Map E1
Kesk 23, 40231
Tel 392 9030
∑ krunk.ee
Constructed in the 1950s
during the Soviet era, this is an Merekalda Guesthouse on the Gulf of Finland, within Lahemaa National Park
For more information on types of hotels see pp292–5

296_299_Hotel_List_Est.indd 299 15/02/17 10:16 am

300  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay in Latvia

Baltvilla €€ Monika Centrum Hotels €€
Rīga Spa hotel Modern Street Finder C2
Senču prospekts 45, Baltezers, LV-2164 Elizabetes 21, LV-1010
Art Hotel Laine € Tel 6784 0640 Tel 6703 1900
Guesthouse Street Finder E2 ∑ baltvilla.lv ∑ monika.centrumhotels.com
Skolas 11, LV-1010 On the edge of Lake Baltezers, Housed in an attractive Neo­
Tel 6728 9823 15 km (9 miles) from the centre, Gothic building in the main
∑ laine.lv Baltvilla specializes in spa and Art Nouveau district, this
Housed in an Art Nouveau build­ medical treatments. Good spotless hotel offers spacious
ing, this bright hotel has spotless facilities for disabled guests. and cosy rooms.
en­suite doubles and cheaper
rooms with shared facilities. Europa Royale Rīga €€ SemaraH Hotel Metropole €€
Historic Street Finder E3 Historic Street Finder D4
Elizabeth’s Youth Hostel € K Barona 12, LV-1050 Aspazijas bulvāris 36/38, LV-1050
Hostel Street Finder E4 Tel 6707 9444 Tel 6601 0300
Elizabetes 103-2, LV-1050 ∑ groupeuropa.com ∑ semarahhotels.com
Tel 2701 0611 Remarkably plush, this 19th­ Open since 1871, this is one
∑ youthhostel.lv century building features high of the city’s oldest hotels.
This large, clean hostel has mixed ceilings, huge doors, stained­ The renovated interior is
dorms and rooms with shared glass windows and a casino. thoroughly modern but there
facilities. It is located close to the is no air­conditioning.
train station and the Old Town. Hotel Garden Palace €€
Historical Street Finder C4 Wellton Centrum Hotel & Spa €€
Guesthouse Jakob Lenz € Grēcinieku 28, LV-1079 Spa hotel Street Finder D4
Guesthouse Street Finder D1 Tel 6722 4650 Kalēju 33, LV-1050
Lenču 2, LV-1010 ∑ hotelgardenpalace.lv Tel 6713 0670
Tel 6733 3343 Indulge in old­fashioned elegance ∑ wellton.com
∑ guesthouselenz.lv at this well­priced hotel. Rooms This is an unusually central Old
In the Art Nouveau district, this are opulently furnished and Town location for such a well­
well­kept lodging has bright some have terraces. equipped spa hotel. Note that
doubles with shared bathrooms use of the spa is not included in
and a few en­suite family rooms. DK Choice the standard room­rate. The
service is excellent though.
Hotel B&B Rīga € Hotel Justus €€
Guesthouse Street Finder E3 Historic Street Finder C4 Astor Rīga Hotel €€€
Ģertrūdes 43, LV-1011 Jauniela 24, LV-1050 Modern Street Finder D3
Tel 6727 8505 Tel 6721 2404 Z A Meierovica bulvāris 10, LV-1050
∑ bb-riga.lv ∑ hoteljustus.lv Tel 6721 7777
A short walk from the Old Town, Occupying the 14th­century ∑ astorrigahotel.lv
this family­run B&B overlooks a dormitories of the cathedral, Opened in 2012, this grand hotel
courtyard. Most of the spacious this enormously atmospheric in the Old Town acquired an
rooms have cooking facilities. Old Town hotel has distressed excel lent reputa tion in a very
period features and exposed short period of time. Standard
Hotel Edvards € brick walls, some with murals rooms are a little on the small side.
Modern Street Finder E2 painted by the once­resident
Dzirnavu 45/47, LV-1010 monks. Tastefully styled rooms Dome Hotel & Spa €€€
Tel 6743 9960 have antique furniture along Luxury Street Finder C3
∑ hoteledvards.lv with air­conditioning and Wi­Fi. Miesnieku 4, LV-1050
An immaculate hotel with plain Tel 6750 9010
rooms in a 19th­century building. ∑ domehotel.lv
There’s a good choice at breakfast This five­star boutique hotel in a
and free tea and coffee all day. 17th­century Old Town mansion,
which was renovated in 2009 by
Albert Hotel €€ Latvian designers, is an absolute
Modern Street Finder D2 treat. Rates include use of the
Dzirnavu 33, LV-1010 ham mam, but the spa and
Tel 6733 1717 wellness treatments are extra.
∑ alberthotel.lv The service is impeccable.
This central hotel towers over its
neighbours, offering superb city Gallery Park Hotel €€€
views from its rooftop bar and Luxury Street Finder D2
many of its rooms. K Valdemāra 7, LV-1010
Tel 6733 8830
Apartments – Laipu €€ ∑ galleryparkhotel.com
Apartments Street Finder C3 In an imposing 19th­century
Laipu 1, LV-1050 building that is part of the
Tel 6781 4680 Châteaux & Hôtels Collection,
Fully equipped apartments have this opulent five­star hotel has an
elegant, high­ceilinged rooms. The blue façade of Wellton Centrum Hotel & indoor pool, secure underground
Great service; immaculate rooms. Spa, centrally located in Rīga’s Old Town parking and a great restaurant.
For key to prices see p296; Rīga Street Finder see pp164–5; Road Map see back inside cover
300_303_Hotel_List_Lat.indd 300 15/02/17 10:16 am

WHERE T O ST A Y IN LA T VIA 301


Grand Palace Hotel €€€
Luxury Street Finder C3
Pils 12, LV-1050
Tel 6704 4000
∑ grandpalaceriga.com
A first-rate hotel with an acclaimed
res taurant and sophisticated bar.
The rooms have heated floors
and modern furnishings.
Hotel Bergs €€€
Luxury Street Finder C2
Elizabetes 83/85, LV-1050
Tel 6777 0900
∑ hotelbergs.lv
This prestigious boutique hotel
has large rooms and modern,
under stated decor. There is an
excellent restaurant (see p321). Sleek room in the boutique Dome Hotel & Spa, set in a 400-year-old Rīga building
JŪRMALA: Light House €€€
DK
DK
DK ChoiceChoice DK ChoiceChoice
Luxury Road Map C3
Nei
Neiburgs Hotel burgs Hotel €€€€€€ J JAUNPILS: Jaunpils Castle €€AUNPILS: Jaunpils Castle €€ Gulbenes 1a, LV-1205,
Historic
Street Finder C4eet Finder C4
Historic
Road Map C4d Map C4
Historic Str Historic Roa Tel 6751 1445
Jauniela 25/27, LV-1050
Jauniela 25/27, LV-1050 Pils, Tukuma district, LV-3145 ∑ lighthousejurmala.lv
Pils, Tukuma district, LV-3145
Te Tel 6310 7082l 6310 7082 This small luxury complex with a
Tel 6711 5522l 6711 5522
Te
∑ neiburgs.com neiburgs.com ∑ jaunpilspils.lv jaunpilspils.lv glass-fronted restaurant and
∑
∑
O Occupying a splendid Art ccupying a splendid Art P Perfect for a romantic break, erfect for a romantic break, terrace sits right on the beach.
this 13th-century castle (see
Nouveau mansion in the centre
Nouveau mansion in the centre this 13th-century castle (see Each of the 11 individually themed
p174) is as atmospheric as they
of the Old Town, this stylish p174) is as atmospheric as they rooms has full kitchen facilities.
of the Old Town, this stylish
come. Most of the rooms are
hotel is among the best in the
hotel is among the best in the come. Most of the rooms are
city. Large, smartly furnished en-suite with four-poster beds, KANDAVA: Hotel Kandava €
city. Large, smartly furnished
en-suite with four-poster beds,
rooms and apartments with full
rooms and apartments with full tiled or parquet floors and open Modern Road Map C3
tiled or parquet floors and open
fireplaces. Those on a tighter
kitchen facilities are available,
kitchen facilities are available, fireplaces. Those on a tighter Sabiles 3, LV-3120
budget can opt for a bed in a
along with a sauna, a steam budget can opt for a bed in a Tel 2640 6733
along with a sauna, a steam
bath and an excellent restaurant.
bath and an excellent restaurant. mixed dorm within the castle. ∑ hotelkandava.viss.lv
mixed dorm within the castle.
A good-value option with clean
and comfortable rooms. A simple
Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija €€€ JELGAVA: Hotel Jelgava €€ café-restaurant offers a choice of
Modern Street Finder C2 Modern Road Map C4 local dishes. Helpful, efficient staff.
Elizabetes 55, LV-1010 Lielā 6, LV-3001
Tel 6777 2222 Tel 6302 6193 KOLKA: Guesthouse Vītoli €
∑ radissonblu.com ∑ hoteljelgava.lv Guesthouse Road Map C3
This monolithic 26-floor hotel A short walk from Jelgava Palace, Vītoli, Kolka, LV-3275
looms over the city. Facilities are this smart hotel offers spacious, Tel 2913 5764
first-rate and the views from rooms well-appointed rooms, a pleasant ∑ lai-ripo.lv/atputa
and top floor bar are fabulous. garden and a complimentary Close to the sea in the picturesque
morning sauna for guests. Slītere National Park, this modest
guesthouse has a pretty garden
JŪRMALA: Dzintari Park and basic rooms with shared
Western Latvia Hostel € bathroom and kitchen facilities.
Hostel Road Map C3
BAUSKA: Hotel Bērzkalni € Piestātnes 6/14, LV-2010 KULDĪGA: Metropole €
Modern Road Map D4 Tel 2586 2000 Modern Road Map B3
Bērzkalni 11a, LV-3901 An impeccable hostel in a Baznīcas 11, LV-3301
Tel 6392 6888 tastefully converted redbrick villa Tel 6335 0588
∑ berzkalni.lv just 200 m (650 ft) from the sea. ∑ hotel-metropole.lv
This great-value hotel is 2 km There’s a choice of bright, Although this hotel has kept its
(1 mile) from the centre and offers spacious rooms and mixed or original façade dating from 1910,
airy doubles and triples, some single-sex dorms. its interior was renovated in 2006
with shared bathroom, a small to a minimalist design. Sloping
indoor pool and a restaurant. JŪRMALA: Villa Joma €€ ceilings give it character. There is
Historic Road Map C3 a fine restau rant (see p322).
DUNDAGA: Laumas € Jomas 90, LV-2015
Guesthouse Road Map C3 Tel 6777 1999 LAKE ENGURE: Guesthouse
Laumas, LV-3261 ∑ villajoma.lv Mikas €
Tel 2640 3240 This stately building first Guesthouse Road Map C3
A wonderful retreat in the Laumas functioned as a hotel back in Ābragciems, Engure district, LV-1048
Nature Park with immac ulate the late 19th century and has Tel 2924 4653
wood-panelled en-suite rooms an enviable location right at A short walk from the sea, this
and apartments, situated in idyllic the heart of the resort. It has a peaceful property has cosy
woodlands. Activities include lovely elegant interior and fine rooms with shared bathroom
fishing, hiking and mini-golf. restaurant (see p322). and kitchen and a large garden.
For more information on types of hotels see pp292–5

302 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


LIEPĀJA: Pie Jāna € SABILE: Firks Pedvāle €
Hostel Road Map B4 Historic Road Map C4
Raiņa 43, LV-3401 Pedvāle, LV-3295
Tel 2036 4552 Tel 6325 2249
∑ hotelpiejana.lv This manor house in the grounds
There is a choice of private rooms of Pedvāle Open-Air Museum (see
or beds in spacious dorms at this p182) has basic, but atmos pheric,
characterful, central hostel. rooms with shared bathrooms.
LIEPĀJA: Libava €€ TALSI: Martinelli €€
Modern Road Map B4 Guesthouse Road Map C3
Vecā ostmala 29, LV-3401 Lielā 7, LV-3201
Tel 6342 5318 Tel 6329 1340
∑ libava.lv ∑ martinelli.lv
This serene canal-side hotel in a A tiny lodging with taste fully
converted 18th-century customs furnished rooms. The restaurant
house has seven stylish rooms serves delicious Latvian cuisine as
with contemporary decor, and a well as hearty breakfasts (see p323).
first-rate restaurant.
TĒRVETE: Pūteļkrogs € Cosy wood-panelled room at Lacu Miga,
MEŽOTNE: Mežotnes Pils €€ Guesthouse Road Map C4 “the Bear’s Den”, in Gauja National Park
Luxury Road Map D4 Zaļenieku parish, LV-3001
Bauskas district, LV-3918 Tel 2925 5010 DAUGAVPILS: Leo €
Tel 6396 0711 ∑ puteli.lv Modern Road Map E4
∑ mezotnespils.lv A few minutes’ drive from Tērvete Krāslavas 58, LV-5401
This exquisitely restored 19th- Nature Park, this converted dairy Tel 6542 6565
century manor house with a offers snug rooms and a café- ∑ hotelleo.lv
Neo-Classical interior is set in acres restaurant with a pretty garden. A well-established motel-style
of grounds (see p170). Stately hotel in the centre of town, Leo
rooms come with heavy antique TUKUMS: Hotel Tukums € has reasonably sized rooms that
furniture and woodland views. Modern Road Map C3 are spotless and comfortable.
Pils 9, LV-3101
NĪCA: Nīcava € Tel 6312 5747 DAUGAVPILS: Villa Ksenija €€
Guesthouse Road Map B4 ∑ hoteltukums.lv Guesthouse Road Map E4
Nīcas parish, Nīcas district, LV-3473 On a quiet street a short walk Varšavas 17, LV-5400
Tel 2921 4661 from the centre, this pleasant Tel 6543 4317
∑ nicava.lv hotel has en-suite rooms that are ∑ villaks.lv
The large rooms are dated but small but adequate. This beautifully restored 19th-
comfortable at this lakeside villa century mansion, with an elegant
set in charming gardens. It has a TUKUMS: Jaunmoku Palace €€ interior, has smart, spacious rooms
good restaurant with a tree- Historic Road Map C3 and a lovely shaded garden.
shaded terrace (see p323). Tumes parish, Tukuma district
Tel 2618 7442 GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
PĀVILOSTA: Viga € ∑ jaunmokupils.lv Eglaines €
Guesthouse Road Map B4 This one-time aristocratic hunting Guesthouse Road Map D3
Viļņu 3, LV-3466 lodge has five rooms, one of them Kārļi, Drabešu parish, LV-4139
Tel 2642 4389 reputedly haunted, and twenty Tel 2917 2332
In a quiet neighbour hood near more in the manor next door (see ∑ hoteleglaines.lv
the sea, this wonderful guest- p175). Popular for weddings. With just two rooms, this
house has cosy rooms. Free tea enchanting forest retreat is often
and coffee throughout the day. VENTSPILS: Kupfernams € booked up. An exceptionally
Guesthouse Road Map B3 charming place and great value.
ROJA: Rēderi € Kārļa 5, LV-3601
Modern Road Map C3 Tel 6362 6999 GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
Kaltene, Roja, LV-3264 ∑ hotelkupfernams.lv Lacu Miga €
Tel 6322 0558 A charming property with a Guesthouse Road Map D3
∑ hotelrederi.lv traditional wooden façade and Gauja 22, Līgatne, LV-4110
A contemporary wood-clad hotel interior decor that blends modern Tel 6415 3481
with bright, spacious rooms and style and period features. ∑lacumiga.lv
sea views. Meals can be taken in Lacu Miga is a snug log cabin
the adjoining café-restaurant. with spacious rooms, deep inside
the park. It is also home to an
RUNDĀLE: Baltā Māja € Eastern Latvia army of teddy bears.
Historic Road Map D4
Pils Rundāle, LV-3921 AGLONA: Aglonas Cakuli € GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
Tel 6396 2140 Guesthouse Road Map E4 Karlamuiza Country Hotel €€
∑ hotelbaltamaja.lv Ezera 4, LV-5304 Historic Road Map D3
Housed in the old servants’ Tel 2933 3422 Kārļi, Drabešu parish, LV-4139
quar ters of Rundāle Palace (see ∑ aglonascakuli.lv Tel 2616 5298
pp172–3), rooms have shared Friendly, family-run guesthouse ∑ karlamuiza.lv
bathrooms, original paved flooring with a rustic feel on Lake Ciriša. Large rooms have vintage furni-
and tiled stoves. Open out of Breakfast includes home-made ture and basic kitchens at this
season only by prior arrangement. pancakes. Bikes and boats for hire. manor on a forested estate.
For key to prices see p296; Road Map see back inside cover

WHERE T O ST A Y IN LA T VIA 303


GAUJA NATIONAL PARK: Spa some with self-catering facilities, SAULKRASTI: Medzābaki €
Hotel Ezeri €€ on Lake Cirma. There is a common Guesthouse Road Map D3
Spa hotel Road Map D3 kitchen and living area with sauna. Medzābaki-2, Lilaste, LV-2163
Siguldas parish, LV-2150 Tel 2009 6060
Tel 6797 3009 LUDZA: Lucia € ∑ lilaste.eu
∑ hotelezeri.lv Modern Road Map E3 A wonderful thatched-roof guest-
A well-run spa hotel set in several Kr. Barona 20-1, LV-5701 house on Lake Lilaste with bright,
acres of gardens. Guests can Tel 2625 3535 spacious rooms facing the water.
enjoy a wide variety of wellness ∑ lucia.lv Holiday cottages are available too.
treatments as well as the chance One of the few central options,
to plunge into an icy pond this brightly decorated hotel has SAULKRASTI: Pie Maijas €
following their sauna. large, clean rooms, a café serving Guesthouse Road Map D3
light meals, and helpful staff. Murjāņu 3, LV-2160
IKŠĶILE: Spadrops € Tel 2940 5480
Modern Road Map D3 PREIĻI: Pie Pliča € ∑ hotelmaija.lv
Rīgas 18 , LV-5052 Historic Road Map E4 An idyllic spot with self-catering
Tel 2643 0430 Raiņa bulvāris 9, LV-5301 cabins tucked away in the trees,
∑ spadrops.lv Tel 2912 1689 just a short walk from the beach.
A well-appointed hotel and This peaceful establishment was Rooms are adequately furnished
recrea tion centre outside Rīga, the town’s first hospital. Today it’s and there’s a large garden with a
with a good restaurant (see p324), a well-regarded guesthouse with children’s play area.
a pool, a sauna, cycling, hiking characterful rooms and a sauna.
trails and croquet. STĀMERIENA: Vonadziņi €
RĀZNA: Rāzna Hotel € Guesthouse Road Map E3
KOKNESE: Orinoko € Modern Road Map E4 Skolas 1, LV-4406
Guesthouse Road Map D4 v. "Astici", Kaunata parish, LV-4622 Tel 2922 5805
Beģēni, Kokneses parish, LV-5113 Tel 2999 4444 ∑ vonadzini.lv
Tel 2663 7918 ∑ razna.lv This thatched-roof hotel has
∑ orinoko.lv On Lake Rāzna, this large pleasant rooms overlooking Lake
This small guesthouse in a recreation centre has smartly Ludza. It offers a wide range of
picturesque location has bright, furnished rooms, self-catering recreational activities.
airy rooms with river views. villas and excellent facilities.
Activities include motorboat VALMIERA: Wolmar €
trips, badminton and volleyball. RĒZEKNE: Kolonna Hotel € Modern Road Map D3
Modern Road Map E4 Tērbatas 16a, LV-4201
KRĀSLAVA: Priedaine € Brīvības 2, LV-4600 Tel 6420 7301
Guesthouse Road Map E4 Tel 6460 7820 ∑ hotelwolmar.lv
Klusā 2, LV-5601 ∑ hotelkolonna.com A large, central hotel that’s a short
Tel 2643 0798 An unpretentious hotel with a walk from the main tourist sights,
A popular guesthouse on the good restaurant (see p325) and Wolmar offers spacious rooms
banks of the Daugava river, just summer terrace overlooking the with walk-in showers. Facilities
outside the town centre, Priedaine river, and attentive service. There include sauna and Jacuzzi.
has spotless rooms with basic is a generous breakfast buffet.
furnishings and river views. VALMIERA: Dikli Palace Hotel €€
SALACGRĪVA: Kapteinu Osta €€ Luxury Road Map D3
Guesthouse Road Map D3 Dikļi parish, Kocēnu district, LV-4223
DK C
DK Choicehoice
Pērnavas 49a, LV-4033 Tel 6420 7480
L
LIMBAŽI: Bīriņu Pils IMBAŽI: Bīriņu Pils €€ €€ Tel 6402 4930 ∑ diklipalacehotel.com
Road Map
Luxury
Luxury Road Map D3 D3 ∑ kapteinuosta.lv Housed in a beautifully restored
Bīriņi, LV-4013
Bīriņi, LV-4013 A seafront complex with spotless, 19th-century manor in wooded
Te
Tel 6402 4033l 6402 4033 nautically themed rooms, self- parkland, this hotel offers
∑ birinupils.lv birinupils.lv catering cabins, and a campsite. opu lent rooms, a pool, relaxing
∑
Sur
Surrounded by acres of park-rounded by acres of park- Guests can use the yacht club’s spa treatments and a stunning
land, Bīriņu manor house is a
land, Bīriņu manor house is a living area and sauna. restaurant (see p325).
stately Neo-Gothic building
stately Neo-Gothic building
dating from the mid-19th
dating from the mid-19th
century. Book a comfortable en-
century. Book a comfortable en-
suite room in the neigh bouring
suite room in the neighbouring
Gardener’s House or splash
Gardener’s House or splash
out on a regal room in the
out on a regal room in the
castle itself, though it’s often
castle itself, though it’s often
booked up for weddings and
booked up for weddings and
other events. There is an
other events. There is an
excellent restaurant (see p325).
excellent restaurant (see p325).
LUDZA: Cirmas Ezerkrasts €
Guesthouse Road Map E3
Zvirgzdenes parish, Ezernieki, LV-4600
Tel 2833 2523
∑ cirmasezerkrasts.lv
This is a secluded complex of
smart log cabins of varying sizes, Façade of Kupfernams Guesthouse with traditional shuttered windows, Ventspils
For more information on types of hotels see pp292–5

304 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Where to Stay in Lithuania
Vivulskio Apartments € Hotel Rinno €€
Vilnius Apartments Street Finder B4 Modern Street Finder C4
Tel 6300 0162 Vingriu gatvė 25, LT-01141
∑ vivulskioapartamentai.lt Tel (5) 262 2828
DK
DK ChoiceChoice
This complex of doubles and ∑ rinno.lt
Comfort Hotel LT omfort Hotel LT €€ apartments is a 10-minute walk This well-established Old Town
C
Modern
Modern Str from the Old Town. There's a hotel has high standards of service
Street Finder C5eet Finder C5
Mindaugo gatvė 27, LT-03212
Mindaugo gatvė 27, LT-03212 sauna, hot tub and optional in- and rooms furnished in classical
Tel (5) 250 5111l (5) 250 5111
Te room breakfast service. style. Delicious pancake breakfast.
∑ comforthotel.lt comforthotel.lt
∑
P
Part of the Nordic Choice Hotel art of the Nordic Choice Hotel Amberton €€ Mabre Residence €€
chain, the hip Comfort Hotel LT
chain, the hip Comfort Hotel LT Modern Street Finder D3 Historic Street Finder E4
features large rooms with ultra-
features large rooms with ultra- L Stuokos-Gucevičiaus gatvė 1, 01122 Maironio gatvė 13, LT-01124
stylish decor. There is free tea
stylish decor. There is free tea Tel (5) 210 7461 Tel (5) 212 2087
and coffee for guests, as well as
and coffee for guests, as well as ∑ ambertonhotels.com ∑ mabre.lt
use of the gym. The excellent
use of the gym. The excellent Opposite Cathedral Square, this This plush four-star hotel occupies
restaurant is run by a top
restaurant is run by a top chic hotel has a good choice of an imposing old monastery
Lithuanian chef and the Old
Lithuanian chef and the Old large, smartly furnished rooms, with a courtyard garden. The
Town is a 10-minute walk away. plus an excellent restaurant. comfort able rooms lack historic
Town is a 10-minute walk away.
features but the restaurant
Artis €€ retains a vaulted ceiling.
Fabrika Hostel & Gallery € Spa hotel Street Finder D3
Hostel Street Finder C2 Totorių gatvė 23, LT-01120 Novotel Vilnius Centre €€
A Vienuolio gatvė 4, LT-01104 Tel (5) 266 0366 Modern Street Finder C3
Tel (5) 203 1005 ∑ centrumhotels.com Gedimino prospektas 16, LT-01103
∑ fabrikahostel.com Located in the Old Town, this Tel (5) 266 6200
This trendy hostel in an indus trial hotel offers free morning use of ∑ novotel.com
space hosts art exhibi tions. It has the pool and sauna. Upper floor Appealing to both tourists and
great facilities, but sound proofing rooms have lovely views. business travellers, this popular,
between rooms is minimal. central hotel has excellent
Dvaras €€ facilities and consis tently high
Litinterp Vilnius € Guesthouse Street Finder D3 standards of service. Upper floor
Guesthouse Street Finder E3 Tilto gatvė 3, LT-01101 rooms have great views.
Bernardinu gatvė 7, LT-01124 Tel (5) 210 7370
Tel (5) 212 3850 ∑ dvaras.lt Secret Garden
∑ litinterp.com The creaky floorboards and fine Boutique B&B €€
A simple B&B in an 18th-century furnishings of this classy Old Town Guesthouse Street Finder E3
Old Town house, Litinterp has guesthouse give it the feel of a Bernardinu gatvė 4, LT-01124
bright, airy rooms with kitchen- richly designed country cottage. Tel 6827 2034
ettes and some shared bathrooms. ∑ secretgarden.lt
Hotel Domus Maria €€ This quaint cottage has a
Old Vilnius Apartments € Historic Street Finder D5 courtyard garden and two comfy
Apartments Street Finder E3 Aušros Vartų gatvė 12, LT-01129 en-suite rooms. High-speed Wi-Fi,
S Skapo gatvė 10, LT-01122 Tel (5) 264 4880 great breakfast and free parking.
Tel 6114 3637 ∑ domusmaria.com
∑ oldvilniusapartments.lt This former 16th-century nunnery Gaono Residence
A 17th-century Old Town building has smart rooms with per iod Apartments €€€
with five immaculate apartments, features and sloping ceilings. Luxury Street Finder D4
a pleasant courtyard seating area Gaono gatvė 8, LT-01103
and free tea and coffee. Tel 6878 4525
∑ g-rez.lt
Park Villa € Large, lavishly appointed apart-
Spa hotel ments in a historic Old Town
Vaidilutes gatvė 6a, LT-10100 man sion. Each apartment
Tel (5) 211 3356 has its own private entrance
∑ parkvilla.lt and separate living area and
A perfect getaway from the bedrooms, but no kitchen.
bustle of the city, this tranquil
hotel is set in wooded parkland a Kempinski Hotel Cathedral
10-minute drive from the centre. Square €€€
Luxury Street Finder D3
Vilnius Home B&B € Universiteto gatvė 14/2, LT-01122
Guesthouse Street Finder C3 Tel (5) 220 1100
Pylimo gatvė 14b, LT-01117 ∑ kempinski.com
Tel 6560 5036 A flawless hotel overlooking the
∑ vilniushome.eu cathedral and Gediminas Tower,
The rooms at this clean, cen tral Kempinksi offers opulent rooms
B&B share bathrooms, a kitchen and suites, excellent facilities
and a living area. Breakfast is Understated façade of Old Town guesthouse including a pool and spa and
pancakes and home-made jam. Litinterp Vilnius a huge breakfast buffet.
For key to prices see p296; Vilnius Street Finder see pp250–51; Road Map see back inside cover

WHERE T O ST A Y IN LITHU ANIA 305


The Narutis Hotel €€€
Historic Street Finder D3
Pilies gatvė 24, LT-01123
Tel (5) 212 2894
∑ narutis.com
Some of the luxurious rooms in
this 16th-century build ing have
original ceiling murals. There is a
spa centre and small pool.
Radisson Blu Astorija Hotel €€€
Luxury Street Finder D4
Didzioji gatvė 35/2, LT-01128
Tel (5) 212 0110
∑ radissonblu.com
In a century-old building, this is
one of the city’s best hotels. It has
well-appointed rooms, superb Elegant and well-furnished room at the Narutis Hotel in Vilnius
service and first-rate facilities.
BIRŠTONAS: Audenis €
DK Modern Road Map D6
DK ChoiceChoice
DK C
DK Choicehoice
A ANYKŠČIAI: SPA Vilnius NYKŠČIAI: SPA Vilnius Lelijų gatvė 3, LT-59207
R Ramada Hotel & Suites amada Hotel & Suites €€€€€€ Anykščiai €€ €€ Tel (319) 61 300
Anykščiai
Str
Luxury
Luxury Street Finder D4eet Finder D4 Spa hotel Roa ∑ audenis.lt
Road Map D5d Map D5
Spa hotel
Subačiaus gatvė 2, LT-01127 Vilniaus gatvė 80, LT-29142 This smart hotel in the centre of
Subačiaus gatvė 2, LT-01127
Vilniaus gatvė 80, LT-29142
Tel (5) 255 3355l (5) 255 3355
Te Tel (313) 53 811l (313) 53 811 town has simply furnished rooms,
Te
∑ ramadavilnius.lt ramadavilnius.lt ∑ anyksciai.spa-vilnius.lt anyksciai.spa-vilnius.lt excellent service and a cosy café-
∑
∑
Ra
Rated among Lithuania’s best ted among Lithuania’s best T This four-star spa complex his four-star spa complex restaurant with a fireplace.
tucked away in the woods has a
hotels, this regal place is housed
hotels, this regal place is housed tucked away in the woods has a
striking modern design and large
in a beautifully renovated 16th-
in a beautifully reno vated 16th- striking modern design and large BIRŠTONAS: Nemuno Slėnis €€
century building. The opulently rooms with balconies and floor- Spa hotel Road Map D6
century building. The opulently
rooms with balconies and floor-
furnished rooms feature richly
furnished rooms feature richly to-ceiling windows. Its restaurant Kampiškių gatvė 8, LT-59107
to-ceiling windows. Its restaurant
caters for a wide range of dietary
patterned wallpaper, sumptuous
patterned wallpaper, sumptuous caters for a wide range of dietary Tel 6996 4028
needs. There are indoor and out-
fabrics and marble bathrooms. needs. There are indoor and out- ∑ nemunoslenis.lt
fabrics and marble bathrooms.
door pools, a children’s playroom
door pools, a children’s playroom Hidden away in the woods, this
and a range of spa treatments. lakeside hotel has a flamboyant
and a range of spa treatments.
Relais & Châteaux Stikliai interior and heavy, antique-style
Hotel €€€ furniture. Facilities include a spa
Luxury Street Finder D4 AUKŠTAITIJA NATIONAL PARK: centre, pool and tennis courts.
Gaono gatvė 7, LT-01131 Šakarva €
Tel (5) 264 9595 Guesthouse Road Map E5 DRUSKININKAI: ViLaima €
∑ relaischateaux.com Šakarva, Ignalinos r. sav, LT-30204 Guesthouse Road Map D6
Rooms boast beautiful upholstery Tel 6871 6136 Žalioji gatvė 28, LT-66116
in rich fabrics and luxurious bath- ∑ sakarva.lt Tel 6752 4494
rooms in this lavish Old Town A picturesque lakeside spot with ∑ vilaima.wordpress.com
hotel with Baroque and Gothic three wooden cottages, each of Close to the river, this family-run
features. Popular with celebrities. which has a kitchen and will sleep guesthouse has a pretty garden.
many. Kayaks and bicycles for hire. Guests have the use of a shared
Shakespeare Boutique Hotel €€€ kitchen and dining area.
Luxury Street Finder E3 AUKŠTAITIJA NATIONAL PARK:
Bernardinu gatvė 8/8, LT-01124 Žuvėdra € DRUSKININKAI: Grand Spa
Tel (5) 266 5885 Modern Road Map E5 Lietuva Hotel Druskininkai €€
∑ shakespeare.lt Mokyklos gatvė 11, Ignalina, Spa hotel Road Map D6
Converted from a 17th-century LT-30119 V Kudirkos gatvė 45, LT-66120
mansion, this atmospheric Old Tel 6860 9069 Tel (313) 51 200
Town hotel has original oak beams ∑ zuvedra.com ∑ grandspa.lt
and an indulgent breakfast. Each Just outside the park, this lake- This well-equipped complex
of its rooms is named after a writer. side hotel has deluxe rooms with has free access to the spa facilities
lake views and a good restaur ant and two excellent restaurants
with a summer terrace (see p328). (see p328). It has a wave pool
and water slides for children.
Central Lithuania AUKŠTAITIJA NATIONAL PARK:
Miškiniškės €€ DRUSKININKAI: Hotel
ALYTUS: Motel Linas € Guesthouse Road Map E5 Violeta €€
Guesthouse Road Map D6 Kazitiškio sen., Ignalina, LT-30252 Spa hotel Road Map D6
Senoji gatvė 2, LT-62121 Tel 6160 0692 Kurorto gatvė 4, LT-66126
Tel 6826 5950 ∑ miskiniskes.lt Tel (313) 60 600
∑ motelislinas.lt Combining comfort with ∑ violeta.lt
This welcoming venue on a quiet isolation, this rustic farmstead Surrounded by parkland, this
street near the town centre has has log cabins and cottages with grand riverside hotel offers a
simply furnished en-suites, an out- stoves. Guests can try archery range of facilities including pools,
door pool and children’s play area. and axe throwing. a spa centre and tennis courts.
For more information on types of hotels see pp292–5

306 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


KAUNAS: Kauno MOLĖTAI LAKELAND: Apple
Arkivyskupijos € Island €
Guesthouse Road Map D5 Camp site Road Map D5
Rotušės aikštė 21, LT-44279 Grabuostas lake, Žalvariai village
Tel (37) 322 597 Tel (383) 50 073
∑ kaunas.lcn.lt/guesthouse ∑ appleisland.lt
This Old Town guesthouse is run An idyllic island camp site with
by the Kaunas Archdiocese. The cosy wooden cottages. Numerous
clean, airy rooms have parquet activities are available including
floors and huge windows. canoeing, tennis and billiards.
KAUNAS: The Monk’s Bunk € MOLĖTAI LAKELAND: Spa
Hostel Road Map D5 Hotel Belvilis €€
Laisvės al. 48-2, LT-44238 Spa hotel Road Map D5
Tel 6209 9695 Kirneilės kaimas, LT-33166
A popular hostel just outside the Tel (383) 51 098
Old Town with clean, spacious ∑ belvilis.lt
dorms and a shared living area. This luxurious lakeside complex
Helpful staff ensure a pleasant stay. in picturesque woodlands offers
beautifully designed rooms and Beautiful pine-clad double room at rustic
KAUNAS: Best Western cottages, and an exhaustive getaway Akmeninė Rezidencija, Trakai
Santakos Hotel €€ choice of spa treatments.
Modern Road Map D5
J Gruodžio gatvė 21, LT-44293 PANEVĖŽYS: Romantic Hotel €€ Western Lithuania
Tel (37) 302 702 Historic Road Map D5
∑ santakahotel.eu Kranto gatvė 24, LT-35173 CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL
A reliable option on the edge of Tel (45) 584 860 PARK: Nidos Kempingas €
the Old Town with an appealing ∑ romantic.lt Camp site Road Map B5
interior featuring exposed brick- In an old flour mill, this hotel has Taikos gatvė 45a, Nida, LT-93121
work. Guests have free morn ing well-designed rooms in earthy Tel 6824 1150
use of the pool and sauna. browns, a fitness centre, pool and ∑ kempingas.lt
upscale restaurant (see p329). Offering a huge range of
activities in a picturesque wood,
D
DK ChoiceK Choice
TRAKAI: Villa Sofia € this is a well organized and
K
KAUNAS: Monte Pacis AUNAS: Monte Pacis €€€€ Guesthouse Road Map D6 popular camp site. Rooms and
Historic
Historic R Road Map D5oad Map D5 Zemaitės 13, LT-21142 self-catering apartments are also
T Masiulio gatvė 31, LT-52436
T Masiulio gatvė 31, LT-52436 Tel 6153 5113 available. Book well ahead.
Tel 6559 5185l 6559 5185 Wonderful cottage-style accom-
Te
∑ montepacis.lt montepacis.lt mo dation in a secluded villa with CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL
∑
L Located in a still-functioning ocated in a still-functioning just three en-suite rooms. Guests PARK: Mariu Krantas €€
old monastery just outside
old monastery just outside have free use of the hotel’s bikes. Guesthouse Road Map B5
Kaunas, Monte Pacis offers a
Kaunas, Monte Pacis offers a Purvynes gatvė 9-2, Nida, LT-93123
hugely atmospheric stay.
hugely atmospheric stay. TRAKAI: Akmeninė Tel 6882 6910
Baroque-style rooms feature
Baroque-style rooms feature Rezidencija €€ In the woods just outside Nida,
f
four-poster beds, high ceilings our-poster beds, high ceilings Guesthouse Road Map D6 this peaceful guesthouse has
and polished wood floors. It’s a polished wood floors. It’s a
and Bražuolė village, LT-21100 large rooms with views of the
great spot to wind down in Tel 6983 0544 lagoon through French
great spot to wind down in
complete peace and quiet.
complete peace and quiet. ∑ akmeninerezidencija.lt windows. Attentive staff.
Guests without transport will This divine lakeside getaway has
Guests without transport will
have to rely on taxis. snug rooms and rustic villas with CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL
have to rely on taxis.
views of Trakai Castle, as well as a PARK: Nerija €€
fine restaurant (see p329). In winter Modern hotel Road Map B5
KĖDAINIAI: Grėjaus Namas € the lake becomes a skating rink. Pamario gatvė 13, Nida, LT-93124
Historic Road Map D5 Tel 6823 8948
Didžioji gatvė 36, LT-57257 VARĖNA: Vila Ula € ∑ neringahotels.lt
Tel (347) 51 500 Guesthouse Road Map D6 Located on a quiet road a short
∑ grejausnamas.lt Burokaraistėlės km., Perloja, LT-65383 distance from the centre of Nida,
One of Kėdainiai’s best hotels, Tel 6799 3318 Nerija has spacious rooms with
Grėjaus Namas has large, modern ∑ vilaula.lt large windows and balconies.
rooms and apartments in an 18th- Each lakeside room, apartment
century building. Excellent service and cabin here has a large balcony CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL
and restaurant (see p329), but only with a terrific view. Snorkelling, PARK: Nidos Seklyčia €€
some rooms have air-conditioning. cycling and hiking are on offer. Guesthouse Road Map B5
Lotmiškio gatvė 1, Nida, LT-93123
MARIJAMPOLĖ: Mercure € VISAGINAS: Gabriella € Tel (469) 50 000
Modern Road Map C6 Modern Road Map E5 ∑ neringaonline.lt
J Basanavičiaus a. 8, LT-68308 Jaunystės gatvė 21, LT- 31230 This intimate four-room guest-
Tel (343) 97 778 Tel (386) 70 171 house has four-poster beds
∑ mercure.com ∑ gabriella.lt and antique-style furniture, plus
Overlooking the main square, A functional hotel with clean, good sauna and steam bath
this hotel with a restaurant is simple rooms. Guests have the facilities. The restaurant has
popular with both tourists and use of a small fitness centre with delicious home-cooked food
business travellers. sauna and steam bath. (see p330).
For key to prices see p250–51; Road Map see back inside cover

WHERE T O ST A Y IN LITHU ANIA 307


KLAIPĖDA: Klaipėda Hostel € guesthouse a short distance from PLUNGĖ: Žemsodis €
Hostel Road Map B5 the centre. There's a pretty garden Camp site Road Map C5
Butku Juzes 7-4, LT-92228 with an outdoor seating area. Mardosų kaimas , LT-90103
Tel (46) 211 879 Tel 6202 6033
∑ klaipedahostel.com PALANGA: Boutique Vila ∑ zemsodis.lt
Next to the bus and train Artemide €€ Cosy log cabins at this riverside
stations, this spotless hostel has Guesthouse Road Map B5 camp site come with a fireplace
several large mixed dorms with Ievu gatvė 8, LT-00155 and a kitchenette. A popular spot
shared bathrooms. Tel 6180 8158 for fishing and canoeing.
∑ vilaartemide.lt
KLAIPĖDA: Pirklių Namai € In a quiet suburb, this lodging has ŠIAULIAI: Saulininkas
Guesthouse Road Map B5 chunky wooden furniture and Guesthouse €
Naujoji Sodo gatvė 12, LT-91227 antique design touches through- Guesthouse Road Map C4
Tel (46) 313 179 out. Outdoor pool. Lukauskio gatvė 5, LT-76236
∑ pirkliunamai.lt Tel (41) 436 555
Six elegantly furnished rooms PALANGA: Palanga Spa ∑ saulininkas.com
are offered at this intimate Design Hotel €€€ A functional option with bright,
guesthouse in a meticu lously Luxury Road Map B5 simple rooms. Simple meals are
restored 18th-century mansion. Birutės al. 60, LT-00135 available in the restaurant.
Tel (460) 41 414
KLAIPĖDA: Hotel Navalis €€ ∑ design.palangahotel.lt ŠIAULIAI: Turnė €
Modern Road Map B5 This strikingly modern five-star Modern Road Map C4
H Manto gatvė 23, LT-92234 hotel has opulently furnished Rūdės str. 9, LT-77155
Tel (46) 404 200 rooms with comfortable seating Tel (41) 500 150
∑ navalis.lt areas and private balconies. ∑ turne.lt
Housed in a 19th-century red- Simply furnished rooms, a decent
brick building, the contemporary PALANGA: Vanagupe €€€ breakfast, and a warm welcome
rooms here are elegant. There is Luxury Road Map B5 are offered at this modest hotel
a good restaurant. Vanagupes gatvė 31, LT-00169 in a leafy neigh bour hood.
Tel (460) 41 199
KLAIPĖDA: National Hotel €€ ∑ vanagupe.lt ŠIAULIAI: Girelė €€
Historic Road Map B5 A plush five-star beach hotel, this Guesthouse Road Map C4
Žvejų gatvė 21/Teatro gatvė 1, has a classy restaurant and a Domantų kaim. 1a, Meškuičių
LT-91247 well-equipped spa centre, plus village, LT-81439
Tel (46) 211 111 horse riding and tennis facilites. Tel (41) 211 043
∑ nationalhotel.lt ∑ sodybagirele.lt
With an enviable location over- Conveniently located for a visit
D
looking the port and the Old Town, DK ChoiceK Choice to the Hill of Crosses, Girelė offers
PA
this comfortable hotel makes a PALANGA: Villa Chateau LANGA: Villa Chateau spotless modern rooms in several
€€€
good base. Excellent service. Amber €€€ large timber cottages. There are
Amber
Luxury Road Map B5oad Map B5 fishing opportunities nearby.
Luxury
R
Naglio aleja 17, LT-00136
KLAIPĖDA: Radisson Blu Hotel Naglio aleja 17, LT-00136
Te
Klaipėda €€€ Tel 6143 9919l 6143 9919 ŽEMAITIJA NATIONAL PARK:
Luxury Road Map B5 ∑ chateauamber.eu chateauamber.eu Linelis €
∑
Sauliu gatvė 28, LT-92231 Right on the beach and edged ght on the beach and edged Modern Road Map C4
Ri
Tel (46) 490 800 by a pine forest, Villa Chateau Paplatelės village, LT-90423
by a pine forest, Villa Chateau
∑ radissonblu.com Amber boasts one of the best Tel 6557 7666
Amber boasts one of the best
This four-star option with stylish, locations in the region. Its ∑ linelis.lt
locations in the region. Its
well-appointed rooms and windows overlook the sea and By far the best accommodation
windows overlook the sea and
golden sand dunes, and the
consistently high standards is in a golden sand dunes, and the in the park, this large leisure
sunset views are unbeatable.
central location. Facilities include sunset views are unbeatable. complex has its own beach on
The facilities and service are
state-of-the-art conference rooms, The facilities and service are Lake Plateliai and organizes
a fitness centre and a steam bath. first-rate, too. canoeing, sailing and diving trips.
first-rate, too.
It has a good restaurant (see p331).
NEMUNAS DELTA: Ventainė €
Holiday complex Map B5
Marių gatvė 7, Ventė, LT-99361
Tel (441) 68 525
∑ ventaine.lt
On the shore of the Curonian
Lagoon, this guesthouse, camp site
and leisure centre complex is ideal
for boat trips, canoeing, tennis and
horse riding. There is also a sauna
and a restaurant (see p331).
PALANGA: Villa Gamanta €
Guesthouse Road Map B5
Baltijos aikštė 12, LT-00131
Tel (460) 48 885
∑ gamanta.lt
Bright, modern self-catering rooms
are offered in this well-presented Cosy double room at Villa Sofia, Trakai
For more information on types of hotels see pp292–3

308 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Restaurant culture in Estonia, Latvia and and popular resort towns also have a fairly
Lithuania has changed dramatically in impressive choice of dining options.
recent years. Although traditional food is Good food is an integral part of Baltic
still very popular, there has been a huge culture and the abundance of traditional-
increase in all kinds of new restaurants style restaurants in each country attests to
specializing in everything from eclectic the pride many people take in their national
international cuisine to quality pizza. The cuisine. Traditional Baltic food may not be
considerable rise in the diversity and par ticularly subtle, but it is tasty and makes
standards of restaurants has happened for a hearty meal. It is often best enjoyed in
across all three Baltic States, although there the countryside where portions are
is far more variety and choice of cuisine in generous and ingredients tend to be
the capital cities. A few other large cities deliciously fresh.

Types of Restaurants
Restaurants and cafés in the
Baltic States are locally referred
to as restoran and kohvik in
Estonia, restorāns and kafejnīca
in Latvia, and restoranas and
kavinė in Lithuania. Both types
of estab lishment vary widely in
the type of food they offer.
Restaurants can either be very
luxurious and modern places or
basic food-and-beer joints that
do not differ significantly from
pubs. Similarly, cafés can be
plea sant and stylish. Most of
them offer a decent but cheap
meal of hearty proportions.
Sometimes they act as a meet- Rustic styling at Estonian restaurant Kuldse Notsu Körts in Tallinn (see p315)
ing place for local drinkers. All
cafés have a good selec tion of are common in small towns and Big breakfasts are rare in the
alcohol on sale. Most modern in the countryside. Sometimes, Baltic States. Until quite recently,
bars often have a small but they are rustically furnished the only breakfast foods
good-quality menu which is places that offer an excellent available were pastries or
available until late. Locally run standard of traditional food pancakes. These days, however,
pubs are known as kõrts in and local beer. Fast food has restaurants offer a range of
Estonia, krogs in Latvia and not really taken off in the breakfasts, including variations
baras in Lithuania. Although rare Baltic States and can only be on the English fry-up. Lunch is
in Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius, pubs found in central locations in still the main meal of the day
the capitals. for many people. Nonetheless,
eating out has become such a
recreational habit that
Dining Hours
res taurants often fill up in the
The rise in restaurant culture evenings, although people
has seen a proliferation of tend to eat early, normally
restaurants which keep similar between 6pm and 9pm.
opening hours throughout the Café culture is big in the
Baltic States. They open bet ween Baltic States. Most cafés open
10 and 11am and close between any time from 8am to 10am
11pm and midnight. In small and close around 9pm or
towns, restaurants are more 10pm, although in small
likely to open later and close towns they often close earlier.
earlier, and in some very In more remote places,
seasonal destinations a few many cafés remain closed
restau rants are open only on Sundays. Pubs and cafés
Bright contemporary dining room at one of during summer months, always have an array of
Riga’s best restaurants, Neiburgs (see p321) closing entirely out of season. snacks available.

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 309


Disabled Visitors
Few restaurants, besides the
new ones, offer easy access for
disabled people in the Baltic
States, but the situation is
improving. Tallinn is slightly
ahead of Vilnius and Rīga in this
regard. Hotel restaurants are a
good option for disabled visitors
as they have more facilities.
Smoking
Smoking in enclosed public
spaces, such as restaurants, bars,
Dining outside at Domini Canes, right at the heart of Rīga’s Old Town (see p321) clubs, hotel lobbies, buses and
trains, is banned in the Baltic
Menus
somewhat lower than in other States. The only option for
English-language menus are European countries, as is the smokers is to sit at an outdoor
commonplace in the capital cost of alcoholic drinks. Prices table in the summer, although
cities and tourist resorts. In small are highest in the capital cities, some restau rants even prohibit
towns and the country side, particularly in tourist spots. outdoor smoking. However, a
however, such menus are much Tax is always included in the few cigar bars have been
scarcer. Most people in the price. Cover charges are quite licensed to allow smoking.
Baltic States speak some English, rare, and usually only apply to
so it may be possible to ask for restau rants or bars which
help in deciphering the menu. include special live music sets. Recommended
After Russian, German is the Cafés are the most affordable Restaurants
most common language in eating option, but many only There is a broad choice of
Latvia and Estonia. Consequently, accept cash. However, credit restaurants in Estonia, Latvia
menus often come with German and debit card payment is and Lithuania, and the listings
or Russian translations. becoming common throughout on pages 314–31 cover a wide
the Baltic States. range of eateries and cuisine
types across all three Baltic
Vegetarians States. They include characterful
Tipping
Meat is integral to Baltic cafés, taverns and traditional
cuisine. Although there is Tipping is a relatively new restaurants serving hearty
an increasing choice of concept in the Baltic States. national or local fare, numerous
vegetarian (vegetaar lane in Service charges are usually ethnic eateries, some vegetarian
Estonian, veģetārie in Latvian included in the bill though venues and elegant fine-dining
and vegetaras in Lithuanian) some leading restaurants add options offering international
dishes on offer in most decent a service charge to the total, or marvellously inventive
restau rants, these vegetarian which should be clearly fusion menus.
menu options are limited to indi cated. Tipping is generally Throughout the listings, those
the capital cities. only expec ted in larger establishments that stand out
establishments with table from the crowd for their
service. The general rule is to exceptional cuisine and service,
Reservations
leave 10 per cent or less of the ambience or historic or unique
Reservations are usually made total bill. Tipping in cafés and setting have been flagged as a
by phone, although in some bars is rare. DK Choice. Among these high-
cases they can be made via the lighted restaurants are some of
Internet. It is unnecessary to the Baltic States’ finest and most
make a booking for lunch, but it Children innovative dining options. A few
is sensible to reserve a table for Although children are examples are Tchaikovsky in
dinner, in a good restaurant in welcome in restaurants, only Tallinn (see p316), serving superb
one of the capital cities, a few popular chains offer Russian–French fusion cuisine,
particularly on a Friday or provisions such as half portions. DikĮu Pils in Valmiera, Latvia (see
Saturday even ing. In big ger towns and cities, p325), offering modern takes of
however, menus for children local specialities made with
are becoming more common. fresh ingredients and Lithuania’s
Paying
It is usually possible to arrange Uoksas restaurant in Kaunas (see
The price of eating out has for some thing off the menu p329), serving highly creative
increased considerably in the to be prepared to meet international dishes prepared
Baltic States, but it is still children’s needs. with the latest technologies.

310 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS



The Flavours of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania
Traditional Baltic cooking is hearty and filling, designed to satisfy
after hard physical labour and during long, gloomy winters. In the
past, staple dishes were mostly soups and porridges made with
grains such as barley, although coastal communities also ate fresh
and preserved fish. Meat was usually reserved for festivals. Today it
is central to most dishes, typically accompanied by boiled potatoes
and rye bread. Popular seasonings include garlic, onions, caraway
seeds and dill. Baltic cuisines have been influenced by those of
neighbouring countries, particularly Russia and Germany in Estonia
and Latvia, and Poland in Lithuania.
Bunch of fresh dill
animal could be wasted. and an extensive network of
Chicken and beef are also rivers and lakes throughout the
widely available, while region. Many traditional recipes
game such as wild boar, fell out of use during the Soviet
hare and venison, may be era when most fish was
found in both rural and exported. The Baltic sprat, in
urban restaurants. particular, was canned and
eaten through out the Soviet
Union. Today, fish is usually
Fish and Seafood
prepared by frying or baking,
Fishing is a venerable history in but it is also smoked and
the Baltic States, with the long salted. The prevalence of this in
Basket of wild mushrooms gathered in the coastlines of Estonia and Latvia Estonia is said to show a link
woods of Latvia
Salmon fillet
Plaice Herrings
Sprats
Meat, Poultry and Game Trout Bream
Pork is on almost every Baltic
menu, whether breaded and
fried like a schnitzel or in the
form of bacon and sausages.
Roast pork has long been a
festive treat. Pork fat is also
eaten, often accompanied by
rye bread, and several dishes,
such as Lithuanian liežuvis
(cow’s tongue), stem from a
time when no part of the Some of the many varieties of fish caught in the clear Baltic waters
Baltic Dishes and Specialities
The long list of Baltic soups and porridges includes
Latvian putra (porridge with pork fat, often
with meat or smoked fish added).
Popular sausages include
Lithuanian vėdarai, made from
pig’s intestines stuffed with
potato. Estonia is noted for
verevoorst (blood sausage)
and verleib (blood bread). Latvia’s
signature dish is pelēkie zirņi (grey peas
Red caviar on rye bread
with bacon). Lithuania’s kugelis (grated
potato pudding often incor porating bacon, onion and eggs) is
served with sour cream. A favourite Lithuanian snack is kepta duona, Pīrāgi (Latvia) and pirukas
also known as grauzdini (fried rye bread with garlic) in Latvia and (Estonia) are small leavened
served with cheese. Throughout the region, you can sample Russian- pasties, usually filled with bacon
style pelmeni (dumplings). or cabbage.

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 311



They are eaten raw, made into
tarts, puddings or compotes, or
preserved for the winter.

Dairy Produce
Dairy products feature strongly
in Baltic cuisine. Local butter
is held in high regard, while
Estonian kefir (fermented cow’s
milk), Lithuanian varškė (cheese
curd) and Latvian rūgušpiens
(curdled milk) are also very
popular. Caraway cheese is
eaten by Latvians, especially
Baked goodies at a cake shop in Rīga in mid summer. The most
ubiquitous dairy product is sour
with Scandinavian traditions. caperata, meaning “gypsy cream. A base for many Baltic
Popular freshwater fish include mushrooms”, are also picked. sau ces, it is also poured directly
pike, eel and elvers. Caviar is Local apples, plums and pears on to a wide range of dishes.
also available, including the appear in fruit pies and tarts, but
relatively affordable red variety. the true fruit bounty of the ON THE MENU
region is its berries and currants.
Picking berries is a popular Kartupeļu pankūkas (Latvia)
Fruit and Vegetables Potato pancakes.
summer pastime (see p359).
The Baltic climate limits the Kibinai (Lithuania) Mutton and
cultivation of fruit and onion pies, a speciality of the
vege tables, and they are not Karaim community.
strongly represented in Šližikai (Lithuania) Biscuits
traditional recipes. By far the served with poppy seed milk
most common vegetable is traditionally on Christmas Eve.
the potato, introduced in the Rosolje (Estonia) Herring,
18th century and now served meat, beetroot and apple salad,
at almost every meal. Other in a whipped cream and
accompaniments include mustard dressing.
simple salads, often just Seljanka (Estonia) and soļanka
cucumber and tomato. Mush- (Latvia) A soup made with meat,
rooms are popular and, every pickled vegetables or fish, which
autumn, people roam the forests has Russian origins.
to gather mush rooms, either to Zrazai (Lithuania) Thin slices of
eat or to sell (see p359). Cepe is beef rolled with onion, bread and
pre ferred, although varieties Freshly picked redcurrants at an often mushrooms, then baked.
such as chanterelle and rozites Estonian farm














Šaltibarščiai (Lithuania) is a Cepelinai (Lithuania), or Pannkoogid (Estonia), huge,
chilled soup made of beet root, “zeppelins”, are meat-stuffed fluffy pancakes served with a
cucumber, chopped egg, kefir potato dumplings in a sour berry compote, show the
and dill. cream, onion and bacon sauce. influence of Russian cuisine.

312 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


What to Drink
Beer is popular in the Baltic States and several of the region’s
breweries date back to the 19th century. Vodka is not as
popular as it was during the Soviet era, although it is still
widely drunk and both local and Russian brands are available.
The region also has some unusual spirits and liqueurs made
with herbs. Although wine-drinking does not have a
distinguished history, imported wine is available in
restau rants and many affordable local sparkling wines are
available. The most prominent traditional soft drink, kali in
Rīga Black Bobelinė,
Estonia, kvass in Latvia or gira in Lithuania, has been claimed
Balsam, Latvia Lithuania
as a forerunner of strong beer. Customarily made from rye
bread and very mildly alcoholic, it is a refreshing alternative blackcurrant juice or vodka.
to aerated drinks such as cola. Specialist shops, and some
bars, also sell Latvian liqueurs
such as the caraway-flavoured
Wines
stopped during the Soviet Allažu Ķimelis.
Although the Baltic States are occupation. It has been Lithuania has a range of
not a major wine-producing restarted but is very limited and herbal liqueurs, including Trejos
region, both Latvia and often the only chance to try the Devynerios. Concocted by a
Lithuania produce sparkling wine is by attending the annual pharmacist in the late 19th
wines, such as Rīga wine festival in summer. century, Trejos Devynerios was
Šampanietis and Alita listed as a legal patent medicine
Šampanas respectively. In bet ween the two world wars.
Estonia, mulled red wine, Spirits and Liqueurs Vodka drinkers may want to try
known as hõõgvein or glögg, is The best-known Estonian Starka, which is distilled from
popular in winter. Served liqueur is the sweet-tasting rye grain, while other traditional
warm, it has a spicy taste due Vana Tallinn, which has drinks are honey-based mead
to the cinnamon and cloves ingredients such as citrus oils, and bobelinė, a liqueur made
used to flavour it. Fruit wines, cinnamon, vanilla and rum. It with cranberry juice. In rural
such as Põltsamaa Kuldne, can be drunk neat but is areas throughout the
which is made from apples, are worth trying in coffee or region, local people brew
also common. over ice cream. It is also their own, very potent,
Latvia appears in the Guinness used to make cocktails or vodka. Visitors should be
Book of World Records for the mixed with white wine or wary of this, as it is
northermost open-air vineyard champagne. Vodka is also usually of low quality and
in the world. Sabile Wine Hill popular in Estonia, and there have been cases
vineyard (Sabiles, Vīna Kalns) Viru Valge is the most where batches have
(see p182), has a long history of common local brand. In Vana Tallinn been contaminated
viniculture, but production addition to the original liqueur with methanol. In
version, it is available Lithuania, a legitimate
in flavoured varieties drink takes the name of this
such as vanilla, lemon illegal vodka, Samanė, but is not
and watermelon. as strong.
For visitors to Latvia, Rīga
Black Balsam is an
unmissable drink and Beer
makes a popular After independence in 1991, the
souvenir, although region’s state breweries were
perhaps as much for privatized and many of them
its ceramic bottle as were subsequently bought by
for the liquid inside. large international corporations.
Developed in 1752 as Baltic Beverages Holdings,
a medicinal tonic, jointly owned by Carlsberg and
it is composed of a Scottish & Newcastle, owns
top-secret list of several of the region’s biggest
ingredients and is an brands, such as Saku in Estonia,
acquired taste. Aldaris in Latvia and Utenos and
Occasionally drunk Švyturys in Lithuania. The
Rīgas sparkling Põltsamaa Kuldne Glögg mulled neat, it is often mixed Finnish company Olvi has
wine, Latvia fruit wine, Estonia wine, Estonia with cola, hot bought Cēsis, which is Latvia’s

WHA T T O EA T AND DRINK 313


oldest brewery, A Le Coq in
Estonia and Ragutis – now
branded Volfas Engleman – in
Lithuania. Also in Lithuania,
Kalnapilis is owned by the
Danish Brewery Group. These
major brands predominate in
both bars and shops, although
some of the more popular
international beers are also
available in the three coun tries.
The two main categories are
light (helein in Estonian, gaišais
in Latvian and šviesus in
Lithuanian) and dark (tume in
Estonian, tumšais in Latvian and
tamsus in Lithuanian). However,
the major breweries have diver si- Saku Brewery, producer of some of the most popular beer in Estonia
fied their ranges and produce
everything from very light US- micro brewery on the premises mass-pro duced drink is usually
style ice beers to rich, dark por- of the huge LIDO Recreation made from malt extract and
ters. Lager drinkers will certainly Centre, just outside Rīga. In flavourings. Another common
find a light beer to suit their Lithuania, the Biržai region is lunchtime drink across the
palate, although visitors often known for its long standing region is kefir, a very mildly
find the dark beers appealing. brewing traditions and is home alcoholic fer mented milk, which
The arguably more interesting to several brew eries, including is one of the key ingredients of
products of small- and medium- the popular Rinkuškiai, which šaltibarščiai (see p311).
sized breweries do make it into has both light and dark beer.
some bars, particularly in the
area where they are produced
and in the capital cities, and Soft Drinks
larger super markets also often The most popular soft drink in
have a decent range. Estonia’s the Baltic States is a drink
islands produce stronger drinks traditionally made from
than most of the mainland fermented rye bread and
brew eries, and Saaremaa õlu is sometimes flavoured with fruit
particularly well received. or herbs, alternatively called
Interesting breweries in Latvia kali, kvass and gira. Strictly
include Užavas, which produces speaking, it is not a soft drink
unpasteurized beers that cannot and is beer-like, although it has
be stored for long and are not a very low alcohol content,
exported. Other brands worth usually about 1 per cent. It
looking out for are Valmiermuižas, vanished from the market at Kefir, fermented Kvass, malted
Tērvetes and Bauskas. The LIDO the time of the collapse of milk, Lithuania drink, Latvia
chain of restaurants brew their the Soviet Union because of
own brand of beer, with a concerns about the conditions A very popular soft drink in
of its produc tion and storage, Estonia is Tartu Limonaad, while
since it used to be Latvia has the very rustic bērzu
dis pensed from sula, made from birch sap. It is
large outdoor tanks. fermented in a barrel with
Once reintroduced, barley seeds sprinkled on top
it proved a threat and some times rye bread
to the market crusts are added. Traditional
dominance of flavourings for the juice include
Coca-Cola, which pepper mint and sprigs of black-
responded by currant, while more modern
buying the drink additions include lemon or
manufacturers in orange zest, raisins and
the three coun- cinnamon. Something else to
tries, who now look out for in Latvia is veselība,
produce Linnuse which is a soft drink sold in
Saku Aldaris Kalnapilis Švyturys Kali, Pilskalna vessels akin to beer bottles and
Originaal, Zelta, Grand, Gintarinis, Kvass and Bajorų advertised as being fortified
Estonia Latvia Lithuania Lithuania Gira. Today, this with an abun dance of vitamins.

314 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Where to Eat and Drink in Estonia
faux rustic decor and Baltic dishes Price Guide
Tallinn at budget prices. Prices are based on a three-course meal
per person, with a half-bottle of house
Pan y Vino € wine, including tax and service.
DK ChoiceK Choice
D
Mediterranean Street Finder C1 € up to €15
I III Draakon II Draakon € € Lai 35 €€ €15 to €35
Estonian
Estonian Street Finder C2 Tel 521 4461 €€€ over €35
Street Finder C2
Town Hall, Raekoja plats 1
Town Hall, Raekoja plats 1 At this tiny wine bar, the affable
Tel 627 9020l 627 9020
Te owner cooks and serves light Vapiano €
Rough wooden tables, bare
Rough wooden tables, bare meals accompanied by a good Italian Street Finder E2
stone walls and staff dressed in choice of Italian, French and Hobujaama 10
stone walls and staff dressed in
traditional attire make for a
traditional attire make for a South American wines. Tel 682 9010
proper medieval experience at
proper medieval experience at This is part of a popular restaurant
this fantastic tavern in the city’s
this fantastic tavern in the city’s Papa Joe € chain where chefs cook pasta to
Town Hall. Elk soup is a popular
Town Hall. Elk soup is a popular Middle Eastern Street Finder E1 order in an open kitchen as diners
menu choice, as are the tradi-
menu choice, as are the tradi- Sadama 25-4 stand watching. It serves fresh,
tional pasties filled with meat,
tional pasties filled with meat, Tel 5685 4660 Closed Mon tasty dishes at reasonable prices.
vegetables or fruit, all washed
vegetables or fruit, all washed This great little Lebanese take-
down with beer, wine or vodka.
down with beer, wine or vodka. away, serving up the best falafel Vegan Restoran V €
sandwiches and hummus in Vegan Street Finder C2
Tallinn, is perfect for vegetarians. Rataskaevu 12
Bogapott € Baba ghanoush (stewed Tel 626 9087
Estonian Street Finder C3 aubergine) and dolma (vine Dishes from around the world,
Pikk 9 leaves stuffed with rice) are such as yam and coconut curry,
Tel 631 3181 also on the menu. spicy tofu and avocado coconut
Dishes are served on handmade pudding are served at this snug
crockery at this café that doubles Pizza Americana € restaurant with a fireplace.
as a ceramics studio. A great place American Street Finder C3
to sample some light Estonian Müürivahe 2 Alter Ego €€
dishes such as mulgipuder (potato Tel 644 8837 Mediterranean Street Finder E2
and barley porridge). One of the oldest pizzerias in town, Roseni 8
Pizza Americana serves large thin Tel 5456 0339
Clayhills Gastropub € and thick crust American-style Situated in the fashionable
International Street Finder C2 pizzas with a huge variety of Rotermanni Quarter, Alter Ego
Pikk 13 toppings. Great value. serves exquisitely presented
Tel 641 9312 Mediterranean-style dishes
Modelled on Britain’s upmarket Sushi Cat € prepared from local ingredients
gas tropubs, Clayhills offers a Japanese Street Finder C4 such as wild venison. Home-made
wide-ranging menu that Roosikrantsi 16 bread and an exhaustive wine list.
includes fish and chips, lamb Tel 503 0911
curry and New York steak. Lively This fun sushi restaurant extends Beer House €€
atmosphere and friendly staff. its manga and Japanese pop- German Street Finder C2
culture theme to life-size anime Dunkri 5
Faeton € portraits on the walls and staff Tel 5819 0670
Azerbaijani Street Finder F2 dressed-up as anime characters. Resembling a German beer
Köleri 2 Top-notch sushi at bargain prices. hall, this pub serves a wide
Tel 687 2125 range of brews including live,
In historic Kadriorg, this Azerbaijani unpasteurised beers and med o var
restaurant has an open fire and (honey beer). There’s pizza, but
bare stone walls. Govurma also plenty of sausage, plus crispy
(mutton stew) is typical of the pigs’ ears and chicken gizzards.
meat-heavy dishes, but there are
vegetarian options too. Controvento €€
Italian Street Finder C2
Kompressor € Vene 12
Estonian Street Finder C2 Tel 644 0470
Rataskaevu 3 A quintessential Italian restaurant
Tel 646 4210 on a narrow cobbled street with
This self-styled “Legendary Pancake outdoor tables. Many ingredients
House” lives up to its billing with are imported from Italy.
generous servings of sweet and
savoury pancakes. Soups and Farm €€
salads are also available. Estonian Street Finder C2
Viru 11
Lido € Tel 517 3261
Latvian Street Finder D3 This restaurant, with rustic decor,
Solaris Centre, Estonia puiestee 9 offers a modern take on local
Tel 609 3364 cuisine, from seed-studded bread
In a mall and part of a Latvian Diners in Lido restaurant at Solaris to baked duck fillet. All the dishes
chain, this bustling canteen has Centre, Tallinn are made from local farm produce.
Tallinn Street Finder see pp86–7

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK IN EST ONIA 315


Golden Dragon €€
Chinese Street Finder C2
Pikk 37
Tel 631 3506
Occupying a vaulted cellar,
Golden Dragon is quite possibly
the best Chinese restaurant in
Tallinn. Portions are generous
and the extensive menu has
plenty of vegetarian options.
Grillhaus Daube €€
International Street Finder C3
Rüütli 11
Tel 645 5531
A great-value eatery with a blazing Restrained luxury at the elegant Bordoo in the Three Sisters Boutique Hotel, Tallinn
open fire and exposed brick walls.
The meat-based menu features serves an excellent selection Dominic €€€
tender steaks along with grilled of reason ably priced inter- Estonian Street Finder C2
duck, chicken, pork and salmon. national dishes. Grilled duck is Vene 10
a local favourite. Tel 641 0400
Kuldse Notsu Kõrts €€ This Old Town restaurant in a
Estonian Street Finder C2 Von Krahli Aed €€ historic building has a classical
Dunkri 8 European Street Finder C2 interior, antique-style crockery and
Tel 628 6567 Rataskaevu 8 professional service. International
This charming cellar restaurant Tel 626 9088 dishes prepared with locally
serves a satisfying selection of At this hip restaurant with sourced ingredients include deer
typi cally meaty traditional dishes comfy chairs and faded chops and mushroom risotto, all
such as crispy pigs’ ears and decor the emphasis is on served with excellent wines.
blood sausage, plus some healthy eating. There is a
vegetarian options. good selection for vegetarians; Gloria €€€
the menu indicates whether French Street Finder D3
Masha €€ dishes contain lactose, egg Müürivahe 2
Russian Street Finder F1 or gluten. Tel 640 6800 Closed Sun
Lootsi 14-2 This elegant restaurant and wine
Tel 600 3633 Bocca €€€ cellar dates from 1937 and specia-
This brightly lit restaurant, just International Street Finder C2 lizes in old-fashioned haute cuisine.
outside the centre, serves Olevimägi 9 Favourites such as foie gras and
excellent Russian staples such as Tel 611 7290 duck confit can be accompanied
pelmeni (stuffed dumplings) and A sleek, minimalist restaurant by a splendid selection of wines.
blini (pancakes). There is live music with atmospheric lighting
and colour ful folk danc ing from and a suitably contemporary Korsaar €€€
7pm, Wednesday to Saturday. menu. Among the enticing Caribbean Street Finder C2
options are ravioli stuffed with Dunkri 5
Mix €€ rabbit, roast dove and grilled Tel 666 8064
Fusion Street Finder C2 rack of lamb. First-rate service. A fun, nautically themed restaurant
Vana-Posti 11/13 Book ahead. packed with aquariums swimming
Tel 622 0998 Closed Sun with live sharks, tropical fish and
Traditional European recipes Bordoo €€€ turtles. Superb exotic dishes include
are combined with those of International Street Finder D1 Patagonian toothfish steak with
Central Asia and the Far East at Pikk 71/ Tolli 2 mango, grilled stingray fins
this smart Old Town restaurant. Tel 630 6300 with coconut-ginger tapioca, and
Creative dishes include tuna Luxurious Bordoo is nestled Madagascar chocolate ganache.
steak with rhubarb sauce and in the Three Sisters Boutique
salmon stuffed with mussels. Hotel (see p297). Intricate,
DK ChoiceChoice
artfully presented dishes DK
€€€
Rataskaevu16 €€ are served by attentive staff. N Neh eh €€€
Estonian
Estonian Street Finder C2 Tables are set well apart to Estonian Street Finder F2
Street Finder F2
Rataskaevu 16 ensure diners’ privacy and Lootsi 4
Lootsi 4
Tel 642 4025 there’s also a pleasant courtyard. Tel 602 2222l 602 2222
Te
This great little restaurant with T This superb restaurant with his superb restaurant with
friendly staff and superb food is Chedi €€€ an exposed redbrick interior n exposed redbrick interior
a
one of the city’s best. Roast elk Asian Street Finder C2 s sources its recipe ideas from ources its recipe ideas from
with blackcurrant sauce and Sulevimägi 1 t the Nordic islands, so there’s he Nordic islands, so there’s
warm chocolate cake are among Tel 646 1676 p plenty of pickled, dried and lenty of pickled, dried and
the tempting options. This multiple award-winning salted ingredients on the alted ingredients on the
s
restaurant has a stylish, m
menu. Dishes are imaginatively enu. Dishes are imaginatively
Restoran Spot €€ modern interior with black p presented on wood, glass resented on wood, glass
International Street Finder C2 slate cladding. Modern takes a and slate, and the service is nd slate, and the service is
Vene 4 on traditional Asian recipes excellent. Advance booking xcellent. Advance booking
e
i
Tel 600 4977 are stunningly presented. is essential and can be done s essential and can be done
via the restaurant’s website..
Run by an enthusiastic young Advance booking is via the restaurant’s website
team, this stylish restaurant recommended.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9

316 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


local vibe. The menu features
Western Estonia plenty of tasty dishes that are
made with local meat and fish, as
HAAPSALU: Muuriaare well as some vegetarian options.
Café €
International Road Map C2 HIIUMAA ISLAND: Vetsi Tall €
Karja 7 Estonian Road Map C2
Tel 473 7527 Kassari village
A cosy venue with comfy arm- Tel 462 2550
chairs and a laid-back vibe, Occupying the tastefully
Muuriaare Café caters for all renovated stables of Kassari
tastes with a good choice of manor, Vetsi Tall is an old-style
dishes for vegetarians and inn with a lovely central fireplace.
vegans as well as meat-eaters. It serves an enticing range of
Gluten-free meals are indicated traditional Estonian dishes,
on the menu. The cakes are a including various types of
highlight. smoked fish, as well as some
international options.
HAAPSALU: Hapsal
Flower-filled roadside patio at Hapsal Dietrich €€ KIHNU ISLAND: Kurase
Dietrich, Haapsalu International Road Map C2 Café €
Karja 10 Estonian Road Map C2
Restaurant Ö €€€ Tel 509 4549 Sääre village
Estonian Street Finder D2 This casual, café-restaurant with Tel 525 5172 Closed out of season
Mere puiestee 6e a 1930s feel serves fresh, locally Despite being a humble affair,
Tel 661 6150 Closed Sun caught fish, organic beef and Kihnu Island’s only eatery serves
At this smart, upmarket crispy duck among other surprisingly good food. The
restaurant with a quirky modern tempting options. There is menu has a number of local
interior and unerring service the separate children’s menu and a specialities, including the island’s
award-winning chefs come up choice of delicious cakes. There renowned fish dishes. Open only
with short seasonal menus that is outdoor patio seating in in summer.
use locally sourced ingredients summer. Friendly service.
wherever possible. Rabbit, MATSALU NATIONAL PARK:
quail and beef usually feature. Amanda Puhvet €
D
There is an exemplary wine list. DK ChoiceK Choice Estonian Road Map C2
HAAPSALU: Kuursaal SALU: Kuursaal
Advance booking is essential. HAAP Üdrumal village, Kullamaa parish
Summer Café
Summer Café €€ €€ Tel 5550 9223
International
Road
Schlössle Restaurant €€€ International Road Map C2Map C2 This is an appealing, out-of-
Promenaadi 1
International Street Finder C2 Promenaadi 1 the-way eatery just off the
Schlössle Hotel, Puhavaimu 13/15 Te C Closed out losed out road to Saaremaa and Matsalu
Tel 5646 2466 l 5646 2466
of season
Tel 699 7780 of season National Park – the large
One of the best restaurants in in
A welcoming cellar restaurant One of the best restaurants wooden watch-tower makes
beneath the Schlössle Hotel Haapsalu, Kuursaal occupies it hard to miss. It serves hearty
Haapsalu, Kuursaal occupies
(see p297), with open fire, a delightful 19th-century soups, a range of mains and
a delightful 19th-century
traditional decor and building on the promenade. delicious pasties.
building on the promenade.
comfortable chairs. Finely With its superb acoustics, the
With its superb acoustics, the
restaurant hall is the perfect
cooked dishes such as grilled restaurant hall is the perfect MATSALU NATIONAL PARK:
spot to enjoy live classical music
venison fillet and smoked duck spot to enjoy live classical music Roosta Holiday Village
are accompanied by an equally while tucking into the café’s Restaurant €
while tucking into the café’s
good wine list. delicious selection of pasta and International Road Map C2
delicious selection of pasta and
fish dishes. As its name implies,
fish dishes. As its name implies, Elbiku village , Noarootsi parish
it is open only in summer. Tel 525 6699
it is open only in summer.
D
DK ChoiceK Choice
Part of a lovely ensemble of
Tchaikovsky haikovsky
Tc €€€ holiday cottages, this smart
€€€
Russian–French Street HAAPSALU: Wiigi Kohvik €€ restaurant offers a good mixture
Russian–French
Street
fusion
fusion Finder C2 International Road Map C2 of well-prepared local and inter-
Finder C2
Hotel Telegraaf, Vene 9 Suur-Lossi 25 national dishes. The summer
Hotel Telegraaf, Vene 9
Te
Tel 600 0610l 600 0610 Tel 473 3112 terrace has delightful sea views.
This atmospheric, glass-roofed his atmospheric, glass-roofed The west-facing summer
T
r
restaurant in the luxury estaurant in the luxury terrace at this charming seafront MUHU ISLAND: Muhu €
Hotel Telegraaf (see p296) el Telegraaf (see p296)
Hot restaurant is perfect for watching Estonian Road Map C2
consistently ranks among the
consistently ranks among the the sun go down. The wide- Liiva village
top five in Flavour of Estonia’s op five in Flavour of Estonia’s ranging menu of well-prepared Tel 459 8160 Closed out
t
ri rigorous selection of the best gorous selection of the best dishes includes hummus, pasta, of season
r restaurants in the country. estaurants in the country. duck, beef and several fish This charming, friendly restaurant
T Tchaikovsky’s skilled chefs chaikovsky’s skilled chefs options. Helpful service. occupying a renovated dairy
cr
create an exquisite selection eate an exquisite selection is decorated with traditional
of
of dishes that fuse traditional dishes that fuse traditional HIIUMAA ISLAND: Liilia € colourful blankets and local
Russian and French recipes. rench recipes.
Russian and F Estonian Road Map C2 paraphernalia. The rather eclectic
Fine wines and faultless Hiiu 22, Käina menu is prepared from local
Fine wines and faultless
ser
service are provided by vice are provided by Tel 463 6146 produce and includes ostrich
elegantly attired staffffff
elegantly attired staff.. This welcoming restaurant, part meat from a nearby farm.
of the Lillia Hotel, has a friendly Open only in summer.
For key to prices see p314; Tallinn Street Finder see pp86–7; Road Map see back inside cover

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK IN EST ONIA 317


PÄRNU: Kohvik Supelsaksad €€ SAAREMAA ISLAND: Pub
DK Ch
DK Choiceoice
International Road Map D2 Vaekoda €
M
MUHU ISLAND: Alexander UHU ISLAND: Alexander Nikolai 32 Estonian Road Map C2
Restaurant €€€ Tel 442 2448 Closed Mon Tallinna 3, Kuressaare
€€€
Restaurant
Estonian
Estonian Road Map C2Map C2 The award-winning design at Tel 453 3020
Road
Pädaste
Pädaste this café-restaurant features Housed in a 17th-century
T Tel 454 8800el 454 8800 vintage wall paper and brightly weighing house in the centre
Voted Estonia’s best restaurant
Voted Estonia’s best restaurant upholstered furniture. It serves of the Old Town, Pub Vaedoka
4 years in a row, this exclusive
4 years in a row, this exclu sive home-made cakes and first-rate is a lively tavern popular with
venue within the luxurious
venue within the luxurious Estonian and international dishes. both locals and tourists. Tasty
Pädaste Manor hotel (see p297) Estonian cuisine is served in
Pädaste Manor hotel (see p297)
offers an exceptional dining
offers an exceptional dining PÄRNU: Kuursaal €€ generous portions.
experience. Locally sourced
experience. Locally sourced International Road Map D2
ingredients, including herbs
ingredients, including herbs Mere puiestee 22 SAAREMAA ISLAND: Hotel
and vegetables from the
and vegetables from the Tel 442 0368 Saaremaa Restaurant €€
manor’s grounds, are used to
manor’s grounds, are used to A popular, lively pub in a late Estonian Road Map C2
prepare innovative dishes
prepare innovative dishes 19th-century seafront building. Mändjala village,
inspired by traditional Nordic
inspired by traditional Nordic The menu will please most, with Kaarma parish
cuisine. Superb service.
cuisine. Superb service. satisfying main courses such as Tel 454 4100
local herring with sour cream, Occupying an idyllic wooded
T-bone steak and grilled sausages. location overlooking Mändjala
PALDISKI: Peetri Toll Tavern € beach, this modern restaurant
Russian/Estonian Road Map C1 PÄRNU: Trahter Postipoiss €€ offers a seasonal choice
Mere 10 Russian Road Map D2 ranging from gourmet-style
Tel 5342 3425 Vee 12 Estonian cuisine to health
Paldiski’s oldest pub serves filling Tel 446 4864 food-style minimalism.
Russian, Estonian and interna tional This tavern-style restaurant with a
cuisine using local ingredients. rustic interior gets lively at week- SAAREMAA ISLAND: La Perla €€
Delicious desserts include blini ends. Staff in folk costume serve Italian Road Map C2
(pancakes) and fruit pies. blini (pancakes), Siberian pelmeni Lossi 3, Kuressaare
(dumplings), ox fillet and baked Tel 453 6910
PALDISKI: Wicca Restaurant at salmon, plus other Russian dishes. At this acclaimed restau rant
Laulasmaa Resort €€ in the centre of Kuressaare
Estonian Road Map C1 PÄRNU: Villa Ammende €€€ the menu offers a broad
Puhkekodu 4, Laulasmaa Mediterranean Road Map D2 choice of well-prepared pasta
Tel 687 0870 Mere puiestee 7 dishes that incorporate local
This relaxed, award-winning Tel 447 3888 ingre dients such as bream,
restaurant with splendid sea Exquisite Mediterranean and salmon and shrimp.
views from its summer terrace French food is served in three
serves wonderful local dishes regal halls in this Art Nouveau SAAREMAA ISLAND: Rose €€
such as quail, marinated elk fillet manor house (see p298) with Estonian Road Map C2
and rhubarb sorbet. immaculate attention to detail. Grand Rose SPA Hotel, Tallinna 15,
There is a lovely summer terrace. Kuressaare
PÄRNU: Ahoy Sushi Bar € Tel 3726667000
Japanese Road Map D2 SAAREMAA ISLAND: Kaali A cosy cellar restaurant, Rose
Kuninga 34 Tavern € is among the best eateries in
Tel 443 8543 Estonian Road Map C2 town. The vaulted brick
As the only sushi bar in Pärnu, Kaali village ceilings and partitioned
Ahoy is a rather exotic spot and Tel 459 1182 rooms create an intimate
sports a white, minimalist interior. Located close to the Kaali meteor setting perfect for sampling the
Polite, efficient service. impact site, this pub-restaurant in beautifully presented local and
an old farm building is the per- interna tional specialities such
PÄRNU: Café XS € fect stop after a day’s sight seeing. as boar sirloin and grilled ribs.
International Road Map D2
Munga 2
Tel 443 1316
With a stylish, modern interior
and a summer terrace, Café XS
offers a choice of meaty salads,
sweet and savoury pancakes and
pasta dishes along with a tempting
selection of home-made cakes.
PÄRNU: Café Grand €€
International Road Map D2
Kuninga 25
Tel 444 3412
Open since 1927, Café Grand
offers a glimpse into Pärnu’s high
society of days past. Bow-tied
waiting staff serve German and
French-influenced specialities and
there’s afternoon tea from 5pm. Bright blue furniture, part of the award-winning design at Kohvik Supelsaksad, Pärnu
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9

318 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


SAAREMAA ISLAND: Georg Ots NARVA: Petchki-Lavotchki €€
Spa Hotel Restaurant €€€ Russian Road Map E1
Estonian Road Map C2 Tallinna maantee 19c, 20303
Tori 2, Kuressaare Tel 357 9333
Tel 455 0000 This pleasant restaurant attached
Set in the Georg Ots Spa Hotel to the Café Geneva nightclub
(see p298), this stylish restaurant serves traditional specialities such
creates wonderfully inventive as blini (pancakes), borsch and
cuisine that strikes a balance pelmeni (dumplings) prepared
between healthy and indulgent by the resident Russian chef.
ingredients. Mains include pork
tenderloin, gently smoked trout ONTIKA COAST: Mio Mare €€
and slow-cooked chicken breast. Estonian Road Map E1
Ranna 12, Toila, 41702
VORMSI ISLAND: Krog € Tel 334 2915
Estonian Road Map C1 The low-key restaurant within the
Hullo village Toila Spa Hotel (see p298) offers
Tel 514 1418 an outstanding menu of
This is a friendly, family-run exquisitely prepared meat and
restaurant in a Swedish-style Traditional table-settings at Italian fish dishes including wild boar in
wooden cottage characteristic trattoria, La Dolce Vita, Tartu red wine sauce and grilled lamb.
of Vormsi Island. Authentic
home-cooked dishes include LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK: OTEPÄÄ: Hotel Karupesa €
wild boar stew and freshly Viitna Korts €€ International Road Map E2
caught herring. Larger groups Estonian Road Map D1 Tehvandi 1a
should book ahead. Viitna village, Kadrina parish, 45202 Tel 766 1500
Tel 520 9156 Located in the woods outside
Originally a staging post on Otepää, this resaurant has
the Tallinn-Narva highway, this romantic lighting and a cosy
Eastern Estonia atmospheric log cabin continues interior. The menu caters for
to be a popular resting place both vegetarians and meat-
KUREMÄE: Wironia €€ for travellers. There is plenty of eaters with a mixture of local
Estonian Road Map E1 fish and meat on the menu as and international dishes.
Rakvere 7, Jõhvi, 41531 well as mulgipuder (potato and
Tel 5303 6505 barley porridge). PAIDE: Paide Plaza €
This smart hotel restaurant Estonian Road Map D1
serves well-presented, hearty NARVA: China House € Keskväljak 15, 72711
local favourites such as sweet Chinese Road Map E1 Tel 5698 8777 Closed Sun
and savoury stuffed pan cakes. Tallinna maantee 6b, 20304 A somewhat simple, centrally
The adjoining pub stays open Tel 552 4777 located restaurant, Paide Plaza is
until late. This highly regarded restaurant geared towards large groups, but
with a colourful interior has serves decent food. The traditional
LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK: man aged to hire the only menu features pancakes, salads
Kadaka-baar € Chinese chef in the region, and grilled meat and fish.
Estonian Road Map D1 ensuring the food is close to
Viitna village, 45202 authentic. The long menu PÕLTSAMAA: Rivaal Café €
Tel 325 5550 includes many vegetarian options. Estonian Road Map D2
Tucked away in the dense woods, Veski 1, 48106
this welcoming log cabin pub is NARVA: Gulliver € Tel 776 2620
a cosy resting place for hikers Estonian Road Map E1 This riverside café-restaurant
and tourists. Expect large Lavretsovi 7 offers a good choice of dishes.
portions of meaty Estonian fare. Tel 356 0777 There is an open fire in winter and
This rustic pub has a large tree-shaded terrace in summer.
LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK: summer terrace. The typically
Lahemaa Kohvikann €€ meat-based local food is PÕLVA: Aal €
Estonian Road Map D1 prepared to a good standard Estonian Road Map E2
Palmse village, 45405 and includes pork on a spit F Tuglase 2, 63308
Tel 323 4148 Closed Mon, Tue and schnitzel. It tends to get Tel 517 1818
Run by a hospitable couple, this lively at weekends. About as good as it gets for eating
simple, cheerful restaurant near out in Põlva, Aal is a lakeside
the park serves hearty local food NARVA: German Pub €€ café-restaurant with a menu of
with German influences. Estonian Road Map E1 traditional staples. The summer
Pushkini 10, 20308 terrace has picturesque lake views.
LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK: Tel 359 1548
Sagadi Manor €€ This popular pub in the centre PÕLVA: Pizza Olive €
International Road Map D1 of town offers hearty food in a Italian Road Map E2
Sagadi village, Vihula parish, 45403 relaxed interior adorned with Ihamaru village, Kõlleste parish, 63503
Tel 676 7888 antique paraphernalia and Tel 5663 0054
On the Sagadi estate (see p113), vintage boxing photographs. At this secluded pizza restaurant
this classy restaurant offers an Pancakes, salted fish, caviar well outside of Põlva hospitable
enjoyable dining experience with and herring are among the staff serve fantastic traditional
mutton, vegan lentil stew and offerings along with some wood-fired pizzas and home-
Sagadi carrot cake on the menu. great German beers. made desserts.
For key to prices see p314; Road Map see back inside cover

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK IN EST ONIA 319


RAKVERE: Katariina Kelder €
Estonian Road Map D1
Pikk 3, 44307
Tel 322 3943
This simple restaurant in the
cellar of a guest house is one of
the best places in town for a
satisfying meal. The menu
features imaginatively presented
local cuisine accompanied by a
small selection of wines.
SILLAMÄE: Krunk €€
Estonian Road Map E1
Kesk 23, 40231
Tel 392 9033
Part of the town’s refurbished
Soviet-era hotel (see p299), Krunk
has an oddly appealing aura of Artfully mismatched tiles at Fellin, Viljandi
faded elegance. The well-
presented, meaty fare is the TARTU: Püssirohu Kelder €€ small café-restaurant serving
best food served in town. There International Road Map E2 typical Estonian food relies
is live music at weekends. Lossi 28, 51003 on the passing tourist trade.
Tel 730 3555 Sandwiches and snacks are
SUUR MUNAMÄGI: Café Suur Built into a hillside, this popular also available.
Muna € pub-restaurant in an old gun-
International Road Map E2 powder cellar has, at 11 m (36 ft), VILJANDI: Fellin €€
Haanja village the world’s highest pub ceiling. International Road Map D2
Tel 5866 4668 Great beers are served and the Kauba 11, 71011
A peaceful rural café in an idyllic menu is packed with meaty Tel 435 9795
spot with a modern wood- dishes. It gets pretty lively late at The innovative menu at the
panelled interior, Café Suur has night and at weekends. wonderfully cosy Fellin has
a short menu of various egg- a great selection of health-
themed dishes in honour of Suur TARTU: Chez André €€€ conscious dishes made from
Munamägi (Big Egg Hill). There International Road Map E2 locally sourced ingredients.
is a lovely summer terrace. Küütri 3, 51007 Artfully presented options
Tel 744 2085 include crispy quail and charcoal
SUUR MUNAMÄGI: Suur This acclaimed restaurant really grilled mature entrecôte.
Munamägi Tower Café € pushes the boundaries with its
International Road Map E2 innovative and artistic combina- VILJANDI: Suur Vend €€
Haanja village tions of exquisite nouvelle cuisine. International Road Map D2
Tel 5822 9895 The intriguing menu includes Turu 4, 71003
This little glass-fronted café at the strawberry and duck pasta, beef Tel 433 3644
top of the Suur Munamägi tower tenderloin steak with Alaska Plenty of meat and fish dishes,
(see p125) sits at the highest point crab, and smoked ice cream. as well as a few vegetarian
in the Baltic States, at 347 m options, are on the menu at this
(1,139 ft) above sea level. Enjoy friendly pub. There is live music
DK
fantastic views of the region DK ChoiceChoice Wednesday to Saturday evenings.
TARTU: La Dolce Vita RTU: La Dolce Vita
along with a light refreshment. TA €€€€€€
Italian
Italian Road Map E2Map E2 VÕRU: Mõisa Ait €
Road
TARTU: Vilde € Kompanii 10, 51007 International Road Map E2
Kompanii 10, 51007
International Road Map E2 Tel 740 7545l 740 7545 Jüri 20c, 65608
Te
Serving an enormous selection
Vallikraavi 4 Serving an enormous selection Tel 782 5587
of authentic dishes, Old Town
Tel 734 4191 Closed Sun of authentic dishes, Old Town Meat-eaters are well catered
Ultra-healthy dishes made restaurant La Dolce Vita has for at this welcoming pub-
restaurant La Dolce Vita has
from locally produced organic won numerous awards. Pizzas restaurant in a lovely old
won numerous awards. Pizzas
ingredients are served at this great are cooked in a traditional building. There’s a good choice
are cooked in a traditional
wood-fired oven, the pasta is
café-restaurant with quirky decor. wood-fired oven, the pasta is of fish, beef, pork and chicken
Meals that are gluten or lactose- home-made and many of the dishes, but far fewer options
home-made and many of the
ingredients are imported from
free are marked as such on the ingredients are imported from for vegetarians.
Italy. The delightful interior
menu and there’s an abundance Italy. The delightful interior
is reminiscent of an authentic
of vegetarian options. is reminiscent of an authentic VÕRU: Café Spring €€
trattoria and the service
trattoria and the service International Road Map E2
TARTU: Yakuza Sushi Bar € is excellent. Petseri 20
is excellent.
Japanese Road Map E2 Tel 782 2777 Closed Sun
Tasku Shopping Centre 4th floor, In a stylishly renovated wooden
Turu 2, 51014 VÄRSKA: Hirvemäe house right beside Lake Tamula,
Tel 741 2732 Puhkekeskus € Café Spring offers a good
Inside a central shopping mall, Estonian Road Map E2 choice of artistically presented
this restaurant serves a well- Silla 6 vegetar ian and meat dishes.
presented choice of sushi Tel 797 6105 The pleasant interior has exposed
options along with soups and Part of a holiday complex close brick, a wood-burning stove and
rice and noodle dishes. to Setu Village Museum, this a comfy upstairs lounge.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9

320 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Where to Eat and Drink in Latvia
Raw Garden € offers freshly baked bread
Rīga Vegetarian Street Finder E2 along with dishes made from
Skolas 12 fresh, locally sourced vegetables
Aragats € Tel 2778 0489 and fruit. Eat in or take away in
Armenian Street Finder F1 Rīga’s only raw food restaurant a funky box.
Miera 15 serves an imaginative selection
Tel 6737 3445 Closed Mon of dishes packed with nutrients. Victory Pub €
The distinctly Soviet-era decor at It has great smoothies, juices International Street Finder C4
this family-run restaurant in a and desserts as well as hot Tirgonu 10
converted apartment is offset by vegetarian meals. Tel 2922 8310
the delicious Caucasian cuisine Popular with locals and tourists,
on offer. The menu features lots this is an English-style pub in a
DK ChoiceK Choice
of lamb, but there are also D historic Old Town building. The
vegetarian options and fish is St € € wide-ranging menu includes
Stock Pot ock Pot
International Street Finder E2
often available too. International Street Finder E2 fish and chips, steak, bacon
Gertrudes sand wiches, chicken curry and
Gertrudes 6 6
Tel 2783 2165 Closed Sun, Monl 2783 2165 Closed Sun, Mon
Fazenda € Te various omelettes.
This great little family-run
International Street Finder E2 This great little family-run
restaurant with a short menu
Baznīcas 14 restaurant with a short menu Bellevue €€
features original combinations
Tel 6724 0809 features original combinations International Street Finder A5
Fazenda is a quaint little café of Mediterranean, Indian, Thai Slokas 1
of Mediterranean, Indian, Thai
and Latvian dishes. Choices vary
and bakery which serves great and Latvian dishes. Choices vary Tel 6706 9040
daily and might include Thai red
fresh bread and pastries along daily and might include Thai red On the eleventh floor of the
curry with fish, Indian butter
with light Latvian and interna- curry with fish, Indian butter Maritim Park Hotel, this smart
tional dishes. Reminiscent of a chicken or “chili con soya”. There fusion-food restaurant has
chicken or “chili con soya”. There
country cottage, it has been are plenty of meat-free options splendid views of the riverfront
are plenty of meat-free options
and vegan, vegetarian and
deftly decor ated with floral and vegan, vegetarian and and Old Town. In a plush interior,
lactose-free dishes are labelled
wallpaper, white-washed brick lactose-free dishes are labelled it offers professional service and
walls, carefully chosen antique as such. Excellent value. artistically presented versions of
as such. Excellent value.
furniture and old prints and tiles. international and Latvian cuisine,
often with a Chinese influence.
Himalajas € Sweetday Café €
Nepalese Street Finder F1 International Street Finder C4 Benjamiņš €€
Brīvības 10 Tirgonu 9 International Street Finder E3
Tel 2037 2938 Tel 2653 7235 Kr Barona 12
Despite its rather unappealing A popular café in the city centre Tel 6707 9410
decor, this family-run restaurant adorned with artworks and an Occupying five opulent rooms
is one of the very best places eye-catching display of within a stately 19th-century
in Rīga for authentic Nepalese irresistible cakes and pastries. building, Benjamiņš has retained
and Indian cuisine. Dishes can Sandwiches, snacks, salads and many original features such as
be spiced according to each light meals are also served. stained-glass windows and
diner’s request. parquet floors. Expect superb
Terra € service and fine international
LIDO Alus Sēta € Vegetarian Street Finder E3 cuisine, such as monkfish fillet
Latvian Street Finder C3 Blaumaņa 9 and roast duck.
Tirgoņu 6 Tel 6765 0001
Tel 6722 2431 This stylish vegetarian eatery, Bon Vivant €€
Serving authentic Latvian cuisine with buffet-style self-service, Belgian Street Finder D4
in a farmhouse-style setting, Mārstaļu 8
this is the most central of the Tel 6722 6585
popu lar LIDO chain of self- A café-restaurant with a dark
service restaurants. Queue up wood interior, Flemish memora-
for chicken or pork shashlik bilia and more than ten Belgian
(grilled meat on a skewer) and beers on tap. Bon Vivant serves
pile your plate high with chips. meat-heavy dishes including
sausages served in half-metre
Pelmeni XL € lengths, Flemish beef stew and
Russian Street Finder D3 several good mussel options.
Kalķu 7
Tel 6707 3956 Čemodāns €€
A cheerful buffet restaurant, Mediterranean Street Finder F3
Pelmeni XL is completely Ģertrūdes 39
devoted to Russian dumplings Tel 2955 4605
(pelmeni). Diners can choose A popular restaurant, Čemodāns
from chicken, beef, pork, serves an attractive selection
vegetarian or seafood varieties. of wonderful dishes from
Portions are large, providing very France, Spain, Portugal and Italy,
good value for the low prices. A as well as Latvia. Classical interior
beer or a shot of vodka make for Patio seating outside self-service styling and top-notch service
the perfect accompaniment. LIDO Alus Sēta, Rīga add to its appeal.
For key to prices see p314; Rīga Street Finder see pp164–5; Road Map see back inside cover

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK IN LA T VIA 321


Da Sergio €€
Italian Street Finder F2
Tērbatas 6
Tel 6731 2777
This is one of Rīga’s best Italian
restaurants, with a well-
established reputation for
consistently high standards of
service and cuisine. Pizzas are
cooked in a traditional wood-
fired oven and there’s a great
choice of pasta and seafood.
Demokrātisks Vīna
Bārs Garage €€
Latvian Street Finder E3
Berga Bazārs, Elizabetes 83/85
Tel 2662 8833
The menu changes daily, Extra-long bar at modern and inventive restaurant Bibliotēka No 1, Rīga
according to which seasonal
ingredients are available, at this Province €€ Bergs €€€
chic restaurant and wine bar in a Latvian Street Finder C4 International Street Finder E3
starkly modern converted Kaļķu 2 Berga Bazārs, Elizabetes 83/85
garage. Tapas complement the Tel 6722 2566 Tel 6777 0957 Closed Sun
wide selection of wines. An Old Town restaurant with a Part of boutique Hotel Bergs (see
rustic interior and some great p301), this is one of Rīga’s
Domini Canes €€ local cuisine. The tasting menu is classiest restau rants. It offers an
International Street Finder D4 a good starting point; it includes exciting fusion of Latvian and
Skārņu 18/20 beef fillet tart, black peas with European cuisine created by top
Tel 2231 4122 bacon and herring tart. Latvian chef Kaspars Jansons.
This intimate restaurant has just
ten tables and is located right Tēvocis Vaņa €€ Bibliotēka No 1 €€€
at the heart of the Old Town Russian Street Finder C3 Latvian Street Finder D3
opposite St Peter’s Church. Smilšu 16 Tērbatas 2
Delicious international dishes Tel 2788 6963 Tel 2022 5000
with Latvian influences are “Uncle Vanya” is an upmarket Boasting a summer terrace over-
prepared with locally sourced Russian restaurant with an looking a leafy park, Bibliotēka
ingredients. Book ahead. elegant interior featuring vintage No 1 serves a high standard of
wallpaper, ceramic knick-knacks, innovative cuisine. Smoked
Gan Bei €€ antique books and comfortable Latgale eel and chicken-liver ice
Asian Street Finder D2 chairs. It serves a menu of Slavic cream are among the offerings.
Dzirnavu 67 classics including a highly-rated
Tel 6728 8420 beef stroganoff. Le Dome €€€
Located at the top floor of Latvian Street Finder C3
the popular Galleria Rīga mall, Uzbekistāna €€ Miesnieku 4
this restaurant serves a range Uzbek Street Finder C4 Tel 6755 9884
of dishes from Asian cuisine Bruņinieku iela 33 This award-winning fish
such as sushi to dishes from Tel 6729 2270 restaurant on a quiet street is
Chinese, Indian and Thai cuisines. This is reputed to be the city’s part of the Dome Hotel and Spa
Wonderful rooftop terrace. first and finest restaurant to be (see p300). It specializes in freshly
serving Uzbek and Central Asian caught Baltic fish, but also serves
International SV €€ food. Favourites include dump- beef, pork and chicken dishes.
International Street Finder F1 lings, shashlik (kebabs) and freshly
Hospitāļu 1 baked bread. Traditional as well as Melnie Mūki €€€
Tel 6749 1212 authentic food and friendly staff. International Street Finder D4
At this top restaurant with a Jāņa Sēta 1
sleek, modern interior, diners can Tel 6721 5006
D
choose several mini-portions DK ChoiceK Choice The well-established Melnie
€€€
of exquisitely presented main 3 3 Pavaru Pavaru €€€ Mūki, or Black Monks, occupies
In
dishes. Options include beef International Street Finder C3ternational Street Finder C3 the cellar of an old monastery
Wellington, ostrich fillet, potato Torņa 4/2brņa 4/2b and serves an eclectic menu of
To
gnocchi and cheese fondue. Tel 2037 0537l 2037 0537 Latvian and interna tional cuisine.
Te
Outstanding service. Run by three of Latvia’s most Run by three of Latvia’s most
promising chefs, 3 Pavaru is one promising chefs, 3 Pavaru is one Neiburgs €€€
Ķiploku Krogs €€ of Rīga’s most exciting dining of Rīga’s most exciting dining Latvian Street Finder C4
International Street Finder C3 experiences. Diners can watch experiences. Diners can watch Jauniela 25/27
Jēkaba 3/5 the seasonal Latvian dishes the seasonal Latvian dishes Tel 6711 5544
Tel 6721 1451 being prepared with modern being prepared with modern Part of the Neiburgs Hotel (see
In keeping with its name, cooking techniques in the open cooking techniques in the open p301), this charming restaurant
which means “garlic bar,” this kitchen, with chefs wielding kitchen, with chefs wielding is among the best in Rīga. It has
quirky little restaurant puts blowtorches and pouring blowtorches and pouring a bright, classy, modern interior
garlic in just about everything, vapourizing liquid nitrogen.vapourizing liquid nitrogen. and beautifully presented Latvian
including the ice cream. and international dishes.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9

322 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Ostas Skati €€€ JŪRMALA: Café 53 €
International Street Finder A1 Latvian Road Map C3
Matrožu 15, Ķīpsala Jomas 53, LV-2015
Tel 2669 3693 Tel 6781 1771
This sophisticated glass-fronted With a laid-back vibe, this great
riverside restaurant, serving a centrally located restaurant
variety of classy fish and meat serves a rea sonably priced choice
dishes, has lovely river views and of specialities such as mutton
a great summer terrace. Best with beans, barley porridge and
reached by car or taxi. jellied pike. There are delicious
pizzas and desserts too.
Rozengrāls €€€
Latvian Street Finder C3 JŪRMALA: International €€
Rozena 1 International Road Map C3
Tel 6722 0356 Vienibas prospekts 6, LV-2010
Occupying an enormously Tel 6776 7735
atmospheric 13th-century cellar, This chic centrally located
this medieval-themed restaurant restaurant with a stylish modern
features waiting staff in full interior and an excellent
costume and local dishes international menu offers a
prepared from historical recipes. broad range of fish and meat
Smoked deer, rabbit stew and dishes. Options include ostrich Elegant dining room with large windows
oven-baked pumpkin are among fillet, beef Wellington, catfish at Metropole, Kuldīga
the offerings. fillet and Burgundy snails.
KULDĪGA: Metropole €€
Vincents €€€ JŪRMALA: Villa Joma €€ Latvian Road Map B3
International Street Finder C2 Mediterranean Road Map C3 Baznīcas 11, LV-3301
Elizabetes 19 Jomas 90, LV-2015 Tel 6335 0588
Tel 6733 2830 Closed Sun Tel 6777 1999 Despite its faded elegance, this
Run by celebrity chef Mārtiņš The bright, airy restaurant in the hotel restaurant (see p301) is the
Rītiņš, Vincents is just as fresh Villa Joma hotel (see p301) has a most upmarket dining option in
and innovative as it was when cosy open fire in winter and a town. International and Latvian
it first opened in 1993. It serves pleasant summer terrace. It dishes are prepared with fish and
adventur ous dishes with serves well-prepared game sourced from local farms.
spectacular pre sen ta tion, often Mediterranean cuisine with
aided by liquid nitrogen. some Latvian specialities. LAKE ENGURE: Cope Café €
Impeccable service. Latvian Road Map C3
JŪRMALA: MaMa €€€ Rideļu Dzirnavas, Engure parish,
Mediterranean Road Map C3 LV-3113
Tirgoņu 22, Majori, LV-2015 Tel 2653 6532
Western Latvia Tel 6776 1271 A cosy café serving wholesome
Voted the best hotel restaurant snacks and light meals prepared
DUNDAGA: Jūras Sapņi € in Latvia for 4 years running, with local ingredients. The home-
Latvian Road Map C3 this stunning venue with its made bread and pancakes use
Vīdales ielā 2, LV-3270 eclectic boutique interior flour from the neighbouring
Tel 2946 2622 Closed out of season makes for a hugely enjoyable Rideji Watermill, while mushroom
Of the few dining options dining experience. It has a and berry fillings are collected
available in Dundaga, Jūras Sapņi Mediterranean menu with from the surrounding forests.
is perhaps the best. Cheerful Latvian influences.
nautical decor features palm LIEPĀJA: Boulangerie €
trees and boat-related parapher- KOLKA: Zitari € International Road Map B4
nalia. Standard fare such as pork, Latvian Road Map C3 Kuršu 2, LV-3401
chicken and potatoes is on offer. Rutas iela, LV-3275 Tel 2713 4686
Open only in summer. Tel 2001 9608 Closed out of season Serving rustic home-made bread
One of the few eateries in tiny and cakes, light snacks and
Kolka, Zitari also functions as a sandwiches, this enormously
DK ChoiceK Choice
D
guesthouse. The hosts are popular café-bakery in the town
J JELGAVA: La Tour de Marie €€ELGAVA: La Tour de Marie €€ wonderfully hospitable and serve centre has downstairs seating as
French/Latvian Road Map C4Map C4 large portions of hearty fare that well as a pleasant roof terrace
French/Latvian Road
Akadēmijas 1, LV-3001Akadēmijas 1, LV-3001 includes delicious locally smoked with great views. Excellent value.
T
Tel 6308 1392 el 6308 1392 Closed Monosed Mon fish. Open only during the
Cl
Jelgava’s finest restaurant is gava’s finest restaurant is summer holiday season. LIEPĀJA: Bel Cibo €€
Jel
located on the seventh floor of ated on the seventh floor of Italian Road Map B4
loc
the Hol
the Holy Trinity Church Tower. y Trinity Church Tower. KULDĪGA: Stenders Pica € Graudu 21, LV-3401
I It’s a remarkably atmospheric t’s a remarkably atmospheric Latvian Road Map B3 Tel 2783 0274 Closed Mon–Wed
location, with bare brick walls e brick walls Suru 2, LV-3301 An enthusiastic team ensures
location, with bar
a
and windows in the four clock nd windows in the four clock Tel 6332 3763 that customers have the best
f faces, plus views of the city that aces, plus views of the city that As well as pizzas, this restaurant possible dining experience at
are better than those from any e better than those from any
ar in the centre of Kuldīga serves a this tiny, but highly regarded
other restaurant in Latvia. It her restaurant in Latvia. It
ot good selection of Latvian cuisine. Italian restaurant. Authentic
serves superb French and ves superb French and
ser Various meaty mains and tasty cuisine is prepared and
Latvian cuisine.
Latvian cuisine. sweet and savoury pancakes are presented to an exceptionally
among the possibilities. high standard.
For key to prices see p314; Rīga Street Finder see pp164–5; Road Map see back inside cover

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK IN LA T VIA 323


LIEPĀJA: Olive €€ RUNDĀLE: Baltā Māja € TALSI: Martinelli €
Fusion Road Map B4 Latvian Road Map D4 Latvian Road Map C3
Klaipēdas 104c, LV-3416 Pils Rundāle, LV-3921 Lielā 7, LV-3200
Tel 2666 0935 Tel 6396 2140 Tel 6329 1340
On the second floor of the Baata In a 250-year-old house that A cosy, farmhouse-style
shopping centre, Olive serves a also offers bed and breakfast restaurant, the menu at Martinelli
range of pasta and Latvian–Asian (see p302), this café-restaurant encompasses traditional fare
fusion dishes such as Japanese serves delicious home-cooked and includes some family recipes.
dumplings and Tokyo salmon. fare, served in an endearing, The dining room has a fireplace,
farmhouse-style dining room. hefty wooden beams and a
LIEPĀJA: Pastnieka Māja €€ The desserts and freshly baked summer terrace over looking
Latvian Road Map B4 black bread are particularly a peaceful garden. The owners
Fr Brīvzemnieka 53, LV-3401 good. Open only by reservation also run a guesthouse here
Tel 2949 6233 out of season. (see p302) and have a small winery
Occupying a former post office next door.
with a modernized interior, RUNDĀLE: Rundāles Pils €€
Pastnieka Māja is considered Latvian Road Map D4 TUKUMS: Karē €
the town’s best restaurant. Rundāle, LV-3921 Latvian Road Map C3
Special ities include soft rabbit Tel 6396 2274 Pasta 25, LV-3101
roll and stuffed bull’s testicles. Conveniently located for visiting Tel 6312 2555
Rundāle Palace, this elegant The menu at this restaurant in
MEŽOTNE: Mežotnes Pils €€ restaurant occupies the Duke of central Tukums features a well-
Latvian Road Map D4 Courland’s former kitchens. It prepared selection of typical
Mežotnes pagasts, Bauskas novads, serves superb and exquisitely chicken, pork, beef and fish
LV-3918 presented Latvian cuisine with dishes. The dining room is simple
Tel 6396 0711 plenty of choices for meat-eaters but comfortable. Friendly service.
The Mežotnes Pils hotel’s but few options for vegetarians.
(see p302) dining room has TUKUMS: Liepaleja €€
spectacular views of the palace SABILE: Dare € Latvian Road Map C3
grounds and serves traditional Latvian Road Map C3 Tumes parish, Tukuma district,
specialities. Impeccable service. Pedvāle, LV-3294 LV-3139
Advance booking recommended. Tel 6325 2273 Tel 2618 7442 Closed Sun
Right by the entrance to Pedvāle Housed within the impressive
NĪCA: Nīcava € Open-Air Museum (see p182), Jaunmoku Pils (see p175), a
Latvian Road Map B4 Dare serves a selection of manor house set in acres of
Nīcas novads, Nīcas pagasts, LV-3473 traditional staples in a relaxed parkland, Liepaleja offers a
Tel 2921 4661 atmos phere. The outdoor terrace relaxed dining experience in
The elegant restaurant in the is a popular in summer. elegant surround ings. The
Nīcava hotel (see p302) has an menu has a good choice of
attractive summer terrace. SABILE: Zviedru Cepure € salads, as well as meat and
Smartly dressed waiting staff Latvian Road Map C3 fish dishes.
serve typically meaty cuisine. Piltiņi Matkule parish, LV-3132
Tel 2640 5405 VENTSPILS: Jūras Brīze €
PĀVILOSTA: Vēju Paradīze € Zviedru Cepure is a popular Latvian Road Map B3
Latvian Road Map B4 recreation centre 3.5 km (2 miles) Vasarnicu 34, LV-3601
Smilšu 14, LV-3466 from Sabile that offers children’s Tel 6362 2524
Tel 2644 6644 activities, skiing, horse-riding This restaurant, with friendly
This bright café-restaurant with and a lengthy toboggan run. Its and cheerful ambience, offers
floor-to-ceiling windows is in rustic log cabin café-restaurant generous servings of delicious
a hotel that’s popular with serves wholesome traditional Latvian-style dishes from kotletes
windsurfers. It serves light dishes. The restaurant is open (home-made meatballs) to herring
meals and sandwiches. throughout summer, and in with cottage cheese. It is popular
winter if there is snow. with locals and great for families.
ROJA: Dzintarkrasts €
Latvian Road Map C3
Žocene village, Rojas parish, LV-3264
Tel 2860 0600
Part of a holiday complex, this
sophisticated restaurant serves
specialities from the local
Kurzeme region such as sorrel
and bacon soup.
ROJA: Otra Puse €
Latvian Road Map C3
Jūras iela 6, LV-3264
Tel 2947 7602
Part of the Otra Puse recreation
complex, this pretty stone
building is a good spot to try
some local cuisine, such as the
fish that’s smoked nearby. There is
live music on Saturday evenings. Rustic outdoor seating at Pastnieka Māja, a former post office in Liepāja
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9

324 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


VENTSPILS: Skroderkrogs € DAUGAVPILS: Villa Ksenija €€€ GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
Latvian Road Map B3 International Road Map E4 Vilhelmīnes Dzirnavas €
Skroderu 6, LV-3601 Varšavas 17, LV-5400 Latvian Road Map D3
Tel 6362 7634 Tel 6543 4317 Spriņģu 1, Līgatne, LV-4110
Considered by many to be This elegant, classically styled Tel 2755 1311
the best restaurant in Ventspils, restaurant is in the imposing This bustling pub in a tiny village
this cosy spot with quirky tables four-star Villa Ksenija guesthouse serv es wholesome cui sine in
made from antique sewing (see p302). The menu has an rustic surroundings. Dishes
machines is a lovely venue emphasis on fish dishes, include home-made meatballs,
in which to eat. It serves well- which are artfully presented. grilled trout and grilled banana.
presented Latvian and There is a lovely garden with
international dishes. shaded outdoor seating. GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
Alexis €€
VENTSPILS: Ostas 23 €€ GAUJA NATIONAL PARK: Allas Latvian Road Map D3
Latvian Road Map B3 un Vinetas Kārumlāde € Vienibas laukums 1, Cēsis LV-4101
Jana 17, LV-3601 International Road Map D3 Tel 6412 0122
Tel 6362 2396 Rīgas 12, Cēsis, LV-4101 In the grand Kolonna Hotel, Alexis
The “Port 23” is a wonderfully Tel 2939 2810 offers splendid views of the sur-
atmospheric pub-restaurant A bright and cheerful café round ing park. Traditional Latvian
with candles and worn wooden where the friendly owners, Alla cuisine, as well as other European
tables, located in the cellar and Vineta, serve deli cious fare, is served by atten tive staff.
of the city’s Livonian Order home-made cakes and great
castle. Staff donning suitably coffee. They also prepare fresh GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
traditional garb serve medieval- and nicely presented salads, Aparjods €€
style dishes such as black soups and sandwiches. Latvian Road Map D3
pudding (blood sausage). Ventas 1a, Sigulda, LV-2150
GAUJA NATIONAL PARK: Tel 6797 4414
Cili Pica € Part of a complex of thatched
Italian Road Map D3 holiday cottages, Aparjods is
Eastern Latvia Strēlnieku 2, Sigulda, LV-2150 decorated with antiques. It
Tel 6797 3955 serves excel lent Latvian and
AGLONA: Upenīte € Part of a successful pizza chain international cuisine.
Latvian Road Map E4 with outlets all over the country,
Tartakas 7, LV-5304 this centrally located pizzeria GAUJA NATIONAL PARK:
Tel 2631 2465 has a colourful modern interior. Kungu Rija €€
As a member of the European There is a reliable selection Latvian Road Map D3
Network of Culinary Heritage, the of pizzas, pasta dishes, salads Turaida, LV-2147
medieval-style dining room of and pancakes, and the service Tel 6797 1473
the lakeside Upenīte Guest house is fast and efficient. Plenty of hearty Latvian dishes
is one of the more interesting such as roast piglet, trout and leg
dining options around Aglona. GAUJA NATIONAL PARK: of lamb are served at this log
Curd pancakes made using a Mr. Biskvīts € cabin restaurant with a large
traditional Latgalian recipe are International Road Map D3 fireplace and a pleasant garden
one of the specialities. Ausekļa 9, Sigulda, LV-2150 and pond.
Tel 6797 6611
DAUGAVPILS: Gubernators €€ This great little self-service café, GULBENE: Lācītes €
Latvian/Russian Road Map E4 with a rugged interior hung with Latvian Road Map E3
Lāčplēša 10, LV-5401 cow bells, is renowned for its Ranka parish, LV-4416
Tel 6542 2455 superb cakes and has a good Tel 2659 9997
Decorated with an unusual selection of light lunches and Better than the average roadside
assortment of Soviet-era evening meals. It gets crowded eatery, this thatched log cabin
paraphernalia, this quirky at times, but there is extra space has a very good selection of
pub-restaurant with a lively outdoors in the summer. traditional cuisine.
atmosphere serves an extensive
range of Russian-influenced IKŠĶILE: Meidrops €€
Latvian cuisine. There is a good Latvian Road Map D3
selection of draft beers, many Rīgas 18, LV-5052
of them local. Tel 6503 0466
On the Daugava river, this tran-
DAUGAVPILS: Plaza €€ quil thatched-roof restaurant is
Mediterranean Road Map E4 part of the Spadrops Hotel (see
Gimnazijas 46, LV-5401 p303) and serves regional cuisine
Tel 6540 4900 made with local ingredients.
Situated on the tenth floor
of the Latgola Hotel in central JĒKABPILS: Uguntiņa €
Daugavpils, Plaza has a wall Latvian Road Map D4
of floor-to-ceiling windows, Pasta 23b
which provides fantastic views Tel 6523 1907
of the city. It serves skilfully Overlooking the Old Town square,
presented Mediter ranean this simple eatery is a local
cuisine and some Latvian favourite. It offers a wide variety of
and regional specialities. Wholesome food at Līgatne’s busy pub, local dishes as well as some more
Attentive service. Vilhelmīnes Dzirnavas, Gauja National Park unusual options such as sushi.
For key to prices see p314; Road Map see back inside cover

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK IN LA T VIA 325


JĒKABPILS: Luiize €€
International Road Map D4
Brīvības 190
Tel 2770 5777
A stylish restaurant in an old
build ing with a hotel and
nightclub attached, Luiize has
a menu that typically consists
of plenty of meat dishes. It
has expanded the choice even
further by adding more unusual
options such as crocodile,
kangaroo and quail.
KRĀSLAVA: Mārīte €
Latvian Road Map E4
Tīrgus 2, LV-5601 Bīriņu manor house with crenellated towers, containing a restaurant in its cellar, Limbaži
Tel 6562 4039
This popular central café with RĒZEKNE: Latgale €€ VALMIERA: Cili Pica €
bright scarlet decor and cheerful Latvian Road Map E4 Italian Road Map D3
service is the best eatery in Atbrīvošanas aleja 98, LV-4601 Georga Apiņa 10a, LV-4201
Krāslava. It offers a straight- Tel 2616 4444 Tel 6422 8558
forward menu of Latvian The Latgale Hotel’s ground-floor Part of a national chain, this
standard dishes. There is live restaurant has a rather dated and brightly decorated pizzeria offers
music at weekends. formal interior, but is a pleasant quick service and delicious pizzas.
place to eat none theless as Pasta dishes, soups, salads and
LIELVĀRDE: Baltu Ozols €€ the traditional cuisine is well- desserts are also on the menu.
International Road Map D4 prepared and the service is good.
Lāčplēša 35, LV-5070 VALMIERA: Rātes Vārti €
Tel 6505 5017 RĒZEKNE: Rozalija €€ International Road Map D3
Creatively presented dishes, International Road Map E4 Lāčplėša 1, LV-4201
attentive service and a Brīvības 2, LV-4600 Tel 6428 1942
reasonable wine list can all be Tel 6460 7840 A quaint little restaurant near
found at this idyllically situated A stylish dining option in the St Simon’s church with stripped
riverside restaurant, located Kolonna Hotel (see p303), Rozalija wood floors, white tablecloths
inside a small hotel. serves a good choice of meaty and comfortable seating. The
regional dishes alongside wide selection of Latvian and
LIMBAŽI: Bīriņu Pils €€ international favourites. It has a international dishes includes
Latvian Road Map D3 terrace overlooking the river. several couscous options.
Bīriņi, LV-4013
Tel 6402 4033 SALACGRĪVA: Rakari €
DK ChoiceK Choice
A selection of imaginative dishes, Latvian Road Map D3 D
based on traditional Latvian Rakari, Svētciems, LV-4033 VALMIERA: Dikļu Pils ALMIERA: Dikļu Pils €€€€
V
Road Map D3Map D3
Latvian
cuisine, are served at this Tel 2666 4447 Latvian Road
atmospheric restaurant in the A smart pub-restaurant just off Dikļi parish, LV-4223
Dikļi parish, LV-4223
Tel 6420 7480l 6420 7480
brick-lined, vaulted cellar of the Via Baltica (Rīga–Tallinn) Te
Bīriņu manor house (see p303). motorway that’s part of a well- Housed within the impeccably
Housed within the impeccably
Options include beaver broth, equipped recreation complex restored Dikli Palace Hotel (see
restored Dikli Palace Hotel (see
organic lamb with baked apple, with a children’s play area. The p303), this restaurant has a
p303), this restaurant has a
formal yet relaxed dining
and pickled beaver. menu has the usual choice of formal yet relaxed dining
atmosphere. The menu features
well-prepared traditional cuisine. atmosphere. The menu features
exquisitely presented Latvian
PREIĻI: Levaž € exquisitely presented Latvian
specialities made with locally
Latvian Road Map E4 SALACGRĪVA: Zvejnieku Sēta € specialities made with locally
Kooperatīvā 1c, LV-5301 Latvian Road Map D3 sourced ingredients. Tempting
sourced ingredients. Tempting
options include smoked pike
Tel 2643 2050 Closed Sun Rīgas 1, LV-4033 options include smoked pike
perch soup, roast rabbit with
The menu has a simple choice Tel 2632 3846 perch soup, roast rabbit with
of local dishes at this small, This well-established, central fish apple sauce, and baked
apple sauce, and baked
pumpkin with marzipan for
modest café in the centre of restaurant, decked out with all pumpkin with marzipan for
dessert. Excellent service.
town. It is known as “the green- sorts of fishing paraphernalia, dessert. Excellent service.
house” for its marvel lous tropical- serves a broad choice of cuisine
style interior, glass walls and made with fresh fish and locally
winter garden. sourced ingredients. VECPIEBALGA: Jumurdas
Muiža €€
RĒZEKNE: Guru €€ STĀMERIENA: Vonadziņi €€ International Road Map D3
Italian Road Map E4 International Road Map E3 Ērgļu district, LV-4844
Atbrīvošanas aleja 100, LV-4601 Skolas 1, LV-4406 Tel 6487 1791
Tel 2835 3538 Tel 2922 5805 Part of a hotel complex of
A sophisticated restaurant which A lovely lakeside restaurant within converted manor buildings 19 km
offers good food and views of the Vonadziņi hotel complex of (12 miles) south of Vecpiebalga,
the city centre by day, and attracts thatched log buildings (see p303). this secluded lakeside restaurant
a combination of hipsters, A good choice of dishes is served has a lovely summer terrace. A
cocktail quaffers and disco on the summer terrace or, in the sophisticated blend of Latvian
lovers by night. winter months, by a blazing fire. and European cuisine is served.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9

326 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Where to Eat and Drink in Lithuania
Prie Katedros € Vegafe €
Vilnius International Street Finder D3 Vegetarian Street Finder D4
Gedimino prospektas 5 Augustijonų 2
Beigelistai € Tel 6057 7555 Tel 6597 7072 Closed Sun
International Street Finder D5 This well-established micro- A great place to cleanse your
Pylimo 58 brewery is replete with gleaming system when you’ve had enough
Tel 6821 0971 vats, piping and ducts. The tasty of meat-heavy Lithuanian cuisine,
This welcoming café specializes honey beer is a local favourite, as Vegafe is a wonderful vegetarian
in freshly baked bagels – filled are the boar sausages and plums and vegan restaurant with a yoga
with anything from salmon and wrapped in bacon. centre upstairs. Diners can choose
cream cheese to Nutella with to sit on chairs or floor cushions.
strawberries. The most RawRaw €
interesting of the several Vegetarian Street Finder D3 Burė No 1 €€
locations is the one at the Totorių gatvė 3 International Street Finder D1
bustling Halės farmers’ market. Tel 6995 2022 Lvovo 25
As the name suggests, just Tel 6717 8676 Closed Sat, Sun
Briusly € about every dish at this stylish Ambitiously promising 365
Asian Street Finder C3 restaurant is served uncooked. different dishes a year upon
Islandijos 4 Vitamin-packed smoothies and opening, the owners of Burė No 1
Tel 6914 1205 juices are on offer, and the have done a great job of creating
Named after legendary Kung Fu healthy, filling dishes include an evolving menu of innovative
fighter Bruce Lee, this informal and turnip ravioli stuffed with nuts. cuisine using locally sourced
reasonably priced restaurant serves The open-plan kitchen lets diners organic ingredients.
“food with attitude” – a tasty watch the action.
selection of oriental dishes – and Didžioji Kinija €€
attracts a young, trendy crowd. Užupio Klasika € Chinese Street Finder C1
Lithuanian Street Finder E4 Konstitucijos 12
Cozy € Užupio 28 Tel 6864 0560
International Street Finder D4 Tel (5) 215 3677 Vilnius has a large number of
Dominikonų 10 This tiny, romantic restaurant- Chinese restaurants, but this
Tel (5) 261 1137 café is the perfect spot for an mainstay is one of the best. Browse
Contemporary jazz complements intimate rendezvous. The food is a catalogue-sized menu before
the subtly lit interior and a DJ delicious, although service can selecting such delicious dishes as
plays most nights until late at this be slow. Expect to be serenaded king prawns on a hot plate or the
hip café-restaurant in the Old by a musician. fantastically presented carp in the
Town. The menu has a good form of a chrysanthemum.
choice of pasta, soups, meaty Vandens Malūnas €
mains and desserts. Lithuanian
DK Choicehoice
Verkių 100 DK C
Er
Forto Dvaras € Tel (5) 271 1666 Ertlio Namas tlio Namas €€€€
Lithuanian
Str
Lithuanian Street Finder D3 Occupying a restored 19th- Lithuanian Street Finder D4eet Finder D4
Šv. Jono 7
Pilies gatvė 16 century watermill in a lush valley Šv. Jono 7
Te
Tel 6561 3688 just below Verkiai Palace (see Tel 6697 5515l 6697 5515
Part of a popular chain of folksy p249), this delightful restaurant Located in a historic building,
Located in a historic building,
Lithuanian restaurants, Forto serves simple fare. The stone- this elegant Old Town
this elegant Old Town
Dvaras is a reliable option for walled interior has a roaring fire restaurant combines age-old
restaurant combines age-old
hearty local fare. Dishes include in winter and there is a shaded recipes with contemporary
recipes with contemporary
potato pancakes with various terrace in summer. cooking styles. The chefs
cooking styles. The chefs
use the best produce sourced
fillings and a choice of meat dishes. use the best produce sourced
from the local farms to
from the local farms to
create wonderful dishes such
Pilies Kepyklėlė € create wonderful dishes such
International Street Finder C3 as quail with blackberry sauce,
as quail with blackberry sauce,
Pilies gatvė 19 wild hare and bean stew
wild hare and bean stew
Tel (5) 260 8992 with asparagus, among others.
with asparagus, among others.
A popular meeting place, Pilies Booking ahead is advisable.
Booking ahead is advisable.
Kepyklėlė offers a fantastic
selec tion of freshly made cakes
and pastries, as well as more Holy Miko’s €€
substantial savoury crêpes. International Street Finder D3
Šv Mykolo 4
Pinavija € Tel 6882 2210
International Street Finder C3 A cosy, family-run restaurant
Vilniaus 21 with friendly service and
Tel 6764 4422 beauti fully presented food.
Renowned for its cakes and Dishes are a modern take on
pastries and for its freshly baked Lithuanian and international
kibinai (see p311) in particular, this cuisine and include potato
laid-back, cosy café and bakery pancakes, dumplings with
serves great breakfasts. It has Cellar dining area of popular traditional cottage cheese, and strawberry
some outdoor seating. restaurant Forto Dvaras in Vilnius and rhubarb gazpacho.
For key to prices see p314; Vilnius Street Finder see pp250–51; Road Map see back inside cover

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK IN LITHU ANIA 327


Miyako €€
Japanese Street Finder C1
Konstitucijos 7a
Tel 6185 2112
This superb restaurant and sushi
bar is located on the top floor of
the Europa shopping centre. The
high-quality sushi is prepared by
expert chefs in full view of diners.
Rib Room €€
International Street Finder D1
Šeimyniškių 1
Tel (5) 210 3012
The Holiday Inn’s restaurant is
the place to indulge in all things
meaty, from thick rib soup to
spicy spare ribs and grilled veal
ribs. There’s also a good choice Mexican restaurant Sofa de Pancho’s homely interior, Vilnius
of fish dishes.
with heat warnings where Medininkai €€€
Saint Germain €€ necessary and the service from International Street Finder D4
French Street Finder D4 the energetic waiting staff is Aušros Vartų gatvė 8
Literatų 9 very professional. Tel 6008 6491
Tel (5) 262 1210 This well-respected Old Town
Hugely popular with both ex-pats Böff Steakhouse €€€ establishment sports crisp white
and locals, this shabby-chic French International Street Finder D2 linens in the 16th-century
restaurant is among the best in Olimpiečių 1 courtyard dining areas. The
the city. The food is impressive Tel (5) 219 9498 Closed Sun service is impeccable, and the
and reasonably priced, and there Upon opening, this steakhouse award-winning chef ensures
is an excellent choice of wines. quickly established itself as one that the standard of cuisine is
of the city’s best restaurants. consistently high.
Senoji Trobelė €€ The steaks, which are from
Lithuanian Street Finder B4 all over the world, are cooked Narutis €€€
Naugarduko 36 to perfection. International Street Finder D3
Tel 6099 9002 Pilies gatvė 24
The menu at this rustic-style Brasserie de Verres en Vers €€€ Tel (5) 212 2894
restaurant offers an extensive French Street Finder D4 Serving an exceptionally high
choice of meaty national staples Didžioji gatvė 35/2 standard of both international
served on pretty traditional Tel (5) 236 0840 cuisine and traditional Lithuanian
crockery. If you are taken by it, This high-end restaurant in the dishes, Narutis offers quality
you can purchase the dining Radisson Blu Astorija luxury dining in the elegant environ-
ware as a souvenir. There is a Old Town hotel (see p305) has a ment of the Narutis Hotel (see
shaded outdoor terrace. small but carefully selected p305), with thick carpets and
menu of dishes. House plush furniture. The service is
Sky Bar €€ specialities include mussels of course excellent.
International Street Finder C1 steamed in white wine, roasted
Konstitucijos 20 duck breast and seafood stew. La Pergola €€€
Tel (5) 231 4823 International Street Finder D4
The views from this 22nd-floor Da Antonio €€€ Ligoninės 7
bar atop the Radisson Blu Hotel Italian Street Finder C3 Tel (5) 266 0322 Closed Sun
are the best in Vilnius. Guests can Vilnius 23 Part of the splendid Grotthuss
enjoy light meals accompanied Tel (5) 262 0109 Boutique hotel, La Pergola offers
by first-class cocktails. A grand entrance of columns a high-end dining experience
and a portico welcomes diners with first-class service and a
Sofa de Pancho €€ to this well-established Italian menu of flawlessly prepared
Mexican Street Finder D4 restaurant. Pizzas are cooked in a dishes. Enticing options include
Visų Šventųjų 5 wood-fired oven and the pasta is halibut fillet in crispy pastry,
Tel 6738 9002 Closed Sun, Mon prepared fresh on site. and roasted scallops with
Enthusiastic staff prepare top- cream sauce.
notch tacos, tortillas and chili con Imperial €€€
carne, as well as great cocktails, at International Street Finder D4 La Provence €€€
this brilliant little restaurant with Subačiaus gatvė 2 Mediterranean Street Finder D4
a smart yet eclectic interior. Tel (5) 238 8388 Vokiečių 22
Influenced by American gourmet Tel (5) 262 0257 Closed Sun
Sue’s Indian Raja €€ cuisine, the menu at this This exclusive restaurant attracts
Indian Street Finder D3 restaurant in the Ramada Hotel a constant flow of VIPs, diplomats
Odminių 3 (see p305) features fresh North and celebrities. The interior is
Tel (5) 266 1888 Atlantic lobster, grilled veal and theatrical and even a little bit
Sue’s is a reliable Old Town suckling pig. The opulent interior quirky, while the menu is wide-
restaurant serving the city’s has gleaming chandeliers, a ranging and expensive, featuring
most authen tic Indian cuisine. marble fireplace, and wood- a skilful fusion of Mediterranean
Delectable dishes are labelled panelled walls and ceilings. and Lithuanian cuisine.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9

328 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Stikliai €€€ and has a lovely summer terrace
French Street Finder D4 with views of the nearby lake. It
Gaono gatvė 7 serves delicious national and
Tel (5) 264 9580 Closed Sun, Mon regional dishes made with
Part of the luxurious hotel of the locally sourced ingredients.
same name, Stikliai offers a
sophisticated French-influenced BIRŠTONAS: Birštono
gourmet experience in an Seklytėlė €
elegant glass-roofed dining Lithuanian Road Map D6
room. Margaret Thatcher, Ronald Prienų 10
Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev Tel (319) 65 800
have dined here in the past. Perched high above the
Nemunas river, Birštono
Telegrafas €€€ Seklytėlė’s main attraction is the
International Street Finder D3 stunning views from its terrace.
Universiteto gatvė 14 Tables along its rim are the most
Tel (5) 220 1600 popu lar, but the window-side
With its high-class cuisine and seats in the dining room also
splendid views over Cathedral provide great views. Good
Square from within the Kempinski national fare is served. Minimalist, modern decor at Uoksas, one
Hotel (see p305), Telegrafas is hard of Kaunas’s top restaurants
to beat. The international and BIRŠTONAS: Sonata €
Lithuanian menu includes a Lithuanian Road Map D6 DRUSKININKAI: Sicilia €
superb signature dish of cepelinai Algirdo 34 Italian Road Map D6
(potato dumplings). Tel (319) 65 825 Taikos 9
This secluded restaurant within Tel (313) 51 865
the Sonata Hotel on the banks of An enormously popular pizzeria
the Nemunas river has lush forest in central Druskininkai, Sicilia
Central Lithuania views from its stylish redbrick boasts consistently high
interior. A broad selection of standards of service and
ALYTUS: Dzūkų Svetainė € regional and international cuisine. The wide-ranging
Lithuanian Road Map D6 cuisine is on offer. menu includes pizza, sweet
Rotušės aikštė 16 and savoury pancakes, potato
Tel (315) 73 780 BIRŽAI: 19-tas Kilometras € pie, and various chicken, pork
In a town with few decent dining Lithuanian Road Map D4 and beef dishes.
options, Dzūkų Svetainė stands Raubonių village, Pasvalio region
out as a reliable venue for well- Tel (451) 39 676 DRUSKININKAI: Keturi Vėjai €€
prepared Lithuanian food Located just off the Via Baltica International Road Map D6
along with pizza and other motorway to Rīga, this canteen- V Kudirkos gatvė 45
international dishes. style eatery serving cutlets, Tel 6180 0966
pancakes and salads is a good The Grand Spa Lietuva Hotel
ANYKŠČIAI: Nykščio Namai € place to break the journey (see p305) has two excellent
International Road Map D5 between capital cities. It also has restaurants – the elegant ground-
Liudiškių 18 its own zoo. A convenient pit floor Druskininkai and the smart
Tel 6503 1881 stop rather than a dining eighth-floor Keturi Vėjai, which
This smart restaurant is located destination in its own right. boasts panoramic views of the
in a recreation complex off the town and serves beautifully
Molėtai road to the southeast of BIRŽAI: Sucré € presented regional and
Anykščiai. It serves a good Lithuanian Road Map D4 international cuisine.
selection of well-presented Vytauto 36
international dishes, accompanied Tel 6652 1207 Closed Sat dinner, Sun KAUNAS: Žalias Ratas €
by local wines and brandies. This delightful café and bakery Lithuanian Road Map D5
serves great coffee and a Laisvės 36b
ANYKŠČIAI: Romuvos Parkas € delicious range of traditional Tel 6747 3815
International Road Map D5 Lithuanian breads and pastries, Providing great value and
Žaliosios village, 20km (12 miles) east along with sandwiches, pizza friendly service, this delightfully
of Anykščiai slices and other light snacks. It’s rustic restaurant, with a central
Tel 6867 7858 a good spot to try šakotis, a open fireplace and shaded
The intimate restaurant in the distinctive local cake made by summer terrace, is a great place
Romuva Park Hotel and leisure applying layers of dough onto a to sample reasonably priced,
complex has panoramic views of rotating spit over an open fire. authentic local cuisine.
the surrounding pine forests. The
menu offers a wide choice of local DRUSKININKAI: Kolonada € KAUNAS: Bernelių Užeiga €€
and international cuisine. Lithuanian Road Map D6 Lithuanian Road Map D5
V Kudirkos gatvė 22 M Valančiaus 9
AUKŠTAITIJA NATIONAL PARK: Tel 6620 6062 Tel 6140 5236
Žuvėdra € Occupying an early 20th-century This tavern-style restaurant in
Lithuanian Road Map E5 colonnaded building in a park, an 18th-century building serves
Mokyklos gatvė 11, Ignalina Kolonada is popular with the generous portions of traditional
Tel 6860 9069 local arty crowd. A good selection cuisine. Mouthwatering options
Part of the Žuvėdra Hotel (see of national dishes is served though include potato dumplings,
p305), this pleasant restaurant is service can be slow. There is live mutton cooked in beer, rabbit
surrounded by pretty gardens jazz, blues and classical music. stew and potato pancakes.
For key to prices see p314; Vilnius Street Finder see pp250–51; Road Map see back inside cover

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK IN LITHU ANIA 329


KAUNAS: Buon Giorno €€ view. The food cannot quite serves an appetizing choice of
Italian Road Map D5 match the panorama, but the Karaim cuisine, including fish
Daukanto 14 simple fare and a children’s baked in pastry and other similar
Tel 6106 3777 playground make it an attractive pasty-style dishes.
Revelling in Italian gastron omy, destination for families. On
Buon Giorno serves great pizza, the Vilnius–Sudervė–Kernavė TRAKAI: Senoji Kibininė €
pasta and bruschetta. This branch road, turn left towards Vievis, Karaim Road Map D6
is a trattoria with full meals. For continue for a couple of Karaimų 65
drinks and lighter bites head to kilometres and it’s on the left. Tel (528) 55 865
the taverna of the same name Located in an atmospheric barn,
(and quality) found at Vilniaus 34. MARIJAMPOLĖ: Sudavija € Senoji Kibininė specializes in
Lithuanian Road Map C6 traditional čenakai (stewed
KAUNAS: Moksha €€ Sodo 1a cabbage) and kibinai, Karaim
Indian Road Map D5 Tel (343) 52 995 pasties stuffed with a choice of
Vasario 16-osios 6 Expect home-cooked food filling including mutton, beef
Tel 6767 1649 served by attentive waiting staff and vegetables or, for dessert,
Highly regarded for its Indian and at this cosy dining room in the chocolate and nuts.
Thai food, Moksha is an intimate Sudavija Hotel. The relaxed interior
place in the Old Town with features crisp white table cloths, a TRAKAI: Bona €€
whitewashed walls and simple fireplace and a piano. International Road Map D6
furniture. Dishes are spiced to Karaimų 53a
European tastes, and the staff PANEVĖŽYS: Hesburger Tel (528) 55 595
provide efficient service. Panevėžys Babilonas II € Bona is an upmarket pizzeria
International Road Map D5 with an enviable lakeside spot
KAUNAS: Pompėja €€ Klaipėdos 143 providing wonderful views of
Mediterranean Road Map D5 Tel 6730 2758 the castle. Well-prepared inter-
V Putvinskio 38 Part of an ubiquitous Baltic chain na tional dishes are available in
Tel (37) 422 055 of McDonald’s-style fast-food addition to pizza.
Pompėja has a well-deserved restau rants, Hesburger has
reputation for fine Mediterranean hamburgers, fries, wraps, cakes TRAKAI: Remus €€
food. Mock Classical frescoes and and salads. With efficient service, International Road Map D6
clay floor tiles conjure up the it is convenient for a quick meal. Karaimų 93a
spirit of ancient Rome. Tel 6981 3777
PANEVĖŽYS: Déjà vu €€ Serving first-class European and
International Road Map D5 Lithuanian cuisine, this luxurious
DK C
DK Choicehoice
Kranto gatvė 24 venue modelled on an English
K
KAUNAS: Uoksas AUNAS: Uoksas €€ €€ Tel (45) 584 859 rowing club features plenty of
International
International Road Map D5d Map D5 Panevėžys’ classiest restaurant is polished wood, antique boating
Roa
Maironio 28
Maironio 28 located within the Romantic paraphernalia and even a small
C
Tel 6863 8881 l 6863 8881
Te Closed Sunlosed Sun Hotel (see p306) and features an museum dedicated to rowing.
One of Kaunas’s best restaurants,
One of Kaunas’s best restaurants, elegant interior with paintings
Uoksas has an open kitchen
Uoksas has an open kitchen and soft furnishings. Imaginative TRAKAI: Akmeninė
where diners can watch the
where diners can watch the dishes include caramelized duck Rezidencija €€€
chefs prepare inventive dishes
chefs prepare inventive dishes breast, baby octopus risotto, Caucasian Road Map D6
usin
using liquid nitrogen and other g liquid nitrogen and other and pear salad. Bražuolės village
cuttin
cutting-edge cooking methods. g-edge cooking methods. Tel 6983 0544
Innovative food presentation
Innovative food presentation TRAKAI: Kybynlar € Nestled in a picturesque spot on
features the use of slate, stone Karaim Road Map D6 the shore of Lake Akmena, the
fea tures the use of slate, stone
and wooden slabs in place of Karaimų 29 rustic yet elegant restaurant at
and wooden slabs in place of
plates and rough woollen bread
plates and rough woollen bread Tel 6980 6320 this secluded hotel (see p306)
baskets instead of traditional
baskets instead of traditional This riverside restaurant with a serves dishes such as baked
wicker ones.
wicker ones. pleasant summer terrace and rabbit’s liver, smoked eel, and
traditionally decorated interior meat and fish shashlik (kebab).
KĖDAINIAI: Grėjaus Namas €
Lithuanian Road Map D5
Didžioji gatvė 36
Tel (347) 51 500
Housed in the vaulted cellar of
the Old Town hotel bearing the
same name (see p306), Grėjaus
Namas is one of the loveliest
restaurants in Central Lithuania
and serves first-class cuisine in
elegant surroundings.
KERNAVĖ: Pušynėlis €
Lithuanian Road Map D5
Verkšionys, near Dūkštai
Tel 6991 4103
Situated above a thickly forested
bend in the Neris river, Pušynėlis
commands an almost primordial Alfresco eating at traditional Karaim restaurant, Kybynlar in Trakai
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9

330 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


TRAKAI: Apvalaus Stalo CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL
Klubas €€€ PARK: Lyra € PARK: Nidos Seklyčia €€
French/Lithuanian Road Map D6 Lithuanian Road Map B5 International Road Map B5
Karaimų 53a Preilos 15, Preila Lotmiškio gatvė 1, Nida
Tel (528) 55 595 Tel 6124 6447 Tel (469) 50 000
With floor-to-ceiling windows, Located in Preila, one of the One of Nida’s classiest
this classy lakeside res taur ant Curonian Spit’s smaller fishing restaurants is located in the
enjoys splendid views of the villages, this unpretentious Nidos Seklyčia guesthouse (see
castle. It serves gour met French seasonal restaurant serves p306). The restaurant has an
food and exquisitely presented generous portions of Lithuanian elegant interior and a tree-
Lithuanian specialities. food. The back garden’s summer shaded summer terrace with
terrace has lovely views over gorgeous views out to sea.
VILNIUSKLAIPĖDA the lagoon. The menu features imaginative
MOTORWAY: Tvirtovė prie cuisine fusing Lithuanian and
Didžiulio € CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL international recipes.
Lithuanian Road Map D5 PARK: Po Vyšniom €
Dėdeliškių village, 20km (12 miles) Lithuanian Road Map B5 CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL
west of Vilnius Nagliu 10, Nida PARK: Vela Bianca €€
Tel (5) 243 2389 Tel 6125 2822 Italian Road Map B5
In a modern three-storey brick Despite having a short menu, L Rėzos 1a, Juodkrantė
castle by the A1 motorway, this this café-restaurant in a pretty Tel 6211 2503
restaurant with kitsch decor wooden cottage surrounded by One of the Curonian Spit’s finest
serves simple food and beer, and idyllic gardens fills up quickly in restaurants, Vela Bianca occupies
has fine views of the countryside. season. Book in advance. an enviable waterside spot with
panoramic views of the lagoon
VILNIUSMOLĖTAI ROAD: CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL and harbour. It specializes in
HBH Vilnius € PARK: Tik Pas Joną € fabulous seafood creations and
Lithuanian Road Map D5 Lithuanian Road Map B5 great carrot cake.
Molėtų plentas, 17km (11 miles) Nagliu 6-1, Nida
north of Vilnius Tel 6208 2084 KLAIPĖDA: Čili Pica €
Tel 6570 7007 A simple outdoor restaurant Italian Road Map B5
Just off the A14 to Molėtai, this specializing in locally smoked Liepų 2
thatched mansion has a warren of fish. Smoked eel is a favourite, Tel (46) 210 201
atmospheric dining rooms serving and all food is served on paper The most central of the national
excel lent dishes, including stewed plates with plastic cutlery. pizza chain’s eateries in Klaipėda,
dumplings and potato pasties. Splendid sea views. this is a pleasant venue for tasty
pizza, pasta and salad served by
VILNIUSPANEVĖŽYS ROAD: CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL a busy team of enthusiastic
Le Paysage €€€ PARK: In Vino €€ young waiters.
French Road Map D5 International Road Map B5
A2 motorway, 19km (12 miles) north Taikos gatvė 32, Nida KLAIPĖDA: Forto Dvaras €
of Vilnius Tel 6557 7997 Lithuanian Road Map B5
Tel (5) 273 9700 An excellent choice of well- Sukilėlių 8
Part of the vast lakeside Vilnius prepared dishes is accompanied Tel 6403 7654
Grand Resort, Le Paysage is by an extensive wine list at this With a view across Theatre
an upmarket restaurant with laid-back wine bar and restaur ant. Square, this highly regarded
impeccable service and exquisite There are stunning views of the Old Town restaurant has a superb
food. There are fabulous views sea from both inside and looking choice of meat-based and
from its summer terrace. out from the rooftop terrace. vegetarian Lithuanian cuisine.
Advance booking is
VISAGINAS: Prospektas € recommended. KLAIPĖDA: Herkus Kantas €
Lithuanian Road Map E5 International Road Map B5
Taikos 10 Kepėjų 17
Tel 6206 0056 Tel 6858 7338 Closed Sun, Mon
Meaty mains, salads and desserts This vibrant Old Town bar in the
can be enjoyed at this smart cramped cellar of a historic
restaurant, a popular choice for building specializes in beers from
weddings and banquets. small Lithuanian breweries and
serves a selection of international
dishes. The waterfront terrace
is open in summer.
Western Lithuania
KLAIPĖDA: Senoji Hansa €
CURONIAN SPIT NATIONAL Lithuanian Road Map B5
PARK: Ešerinė € Kurpių 1
International Road Map B5 Tel (46) 400 056
Naglių 2, Nida Popular during the day for
Tel (469) 52 757 coffee breaks and light meals,
A thatched-roof restaurant and and in the evening for reasonably
bar with sweeping sea views. priced Lithuanian cuisine,
Popular with both drinkers and this Old Town eatery has a
diners, it has a good choice of Stairs leading down to Russian restaurant great central location with
local and international cuisine. Stora Antis, Klaipėda outdoor seating.
For key to prices see p314; Road Map see back inside cover

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK IN LITHU ANIA 331


DK Ch
DK Choiceoice
K KLAIPĖDA: Ararat LAIPĖDA: Ararat €€ €€
Armenian Road Map B5oad Map B5
R
Armenian
Liepų 48a
Liepų 48a
T
Tel (46) 410 001el (46) 410 001
For an exotic dining experience,
For an exotic dining experience,
head for this restaurant in the
head for this restaurant in the
Ararat Hotel, where modern
Ararat Hotel, where modern
decor is combined with the
decor is com bined with the
bright colours of Armenian
bright colours of Armenian
textiles. The meaty menu
textiles. The meaty menu
features beautifully presented
features beautifully presented
dishes including sublime
dishes including sublime
lamb options.
lamb options.
KLAIPĖDA: Momo Grill €€
International Road Map B5 Cellar dining room at Lithuanian restaurant Arkos in Šiauliai
Liepų 20
Tel 6931 2355 Closed Sun, Mon PALANGA: 1925 € ŠIAULIAI: Juonė Pastuogė €
Known as one of the best places International Road Map B5 Lithuanian Road Map C4
in town for steak, this great little J Basanavičiaus 4 Aušros al. 31a
restaurant is often booked up Tel (460) 52 526 Tel (41) 524 926
well in advance thanks to its A pub-restaurant with a wood- A broad choice of imaginative
superb service and a weekly panelled interior and open fire- dishes is offered here. There is
menu that changes according place that has great food and first- live pop and folk music most
to what’s in season. class service. International dishes evenings and outdoor
and Lithuanian staples such as performances at weekends.
KLAIPĖDA: Stora Antis €€ smoked pigs’ ears are on offer.
Russian Road Map B5 ŠIAULIAI: Arkos €€
Tiltų gatvė 6 PALANGA: Vila Žvaigždė € Lithuanian Road Map C4
Tel (46) 493 910 Closed Sun, Mon Ukrainian Road Map B5 Vilniaus 213
This candlelit restaurant occupies S Daukanto 6 Tel 6503 1330
a vaulted brick cellar in the Old Tel 6565 9691 Enjoy authentic cuisine at this
Town. Well-known favourites This well-established restaurant cellar-based bar-restaurant with
such as borsch (beet root soup) serves delicious food such as high wood-beamed ceilings. Fish
and pelmeni (stuffed dumplings) potato pancakes and home- predominates in summer while
are on the menu. made dumplings. Vintage meats ranging from beef to
wallpaper and black-and-white ostrich are prevalent in winter.
KLAIPĖDA: Viva la Vita €€€ photographs add to the appeal. Excellent wine list.
International Road Map B5
Naujojo Sodo 1 PALANGA: De Cuba €€ ŠIAULIAI: My Thai €€
Tel (46) 404 372 International Road Map B5 Thai Road Map C4
Though it serves exotic cocktails J Basanavičiaus 28 P Višinskio 41b, IIa
and exquisitely presented Tel (460) 51 011 Tel 6000 3056
international cuisine, the main The huge menu at this lively bar- For those in search of something
reason people come here is for restaurant has potato pan cakes, a little more exotic in Šiauliai, this
the views from the 20th floor of cepelinai (potato dumplings) and peaceful restaurant run by
the Amberton Hotel. international choices. There is Lithuanians with a passion for
plenty of outdoor seating around Thai cuisine is the perfect choice.
KRETINGA: Pas Grafą € an ornamental pond.
Lithuanian Road Map B5 ŠILUTĖ: Rambynas €
Vilniaus 20 PALANGA: Žuvinė €€ International Road Map B5
Tel (445) 51 366 International Road Map B5 Lietuvininkų gatvė 68a
This elegant café-restaurant in J Basanavičiaus 37a Tel (441) 77 055
the glass-enclosed winter Tel (460) 48 070 This central restaurant also serves
gardens of Count Tyskiewicz’s This wonderful beachfront res- as a bar, café and nightclub. The
19th-century palace is perfect for tau rant has an impressive choice extensive menu includes
coffee and a pastry. More sub- of fish and seafood, from simple Lithuanian staples as well as
stan tial meals are available too. herrings to oysters and fine black pizza, hamburgers and more.
caviar. Efficient service.
NEMUNAS DELTA: Ventainė € ŽEMAITIJA NATIONAL PARK:
Lithuanian Road Map B5 RASEINIAI: Karpynė € Linelis €
Marių gatvė 7, Ventė village Lithuanian Road Map C5 International Road Map C4
Tel 6867 0490 Karpynės 2, Gabšių village Paplatelės village
Part of a secluded hotel, campsite Tel (428) 70 123 Tel 6557 7666
and aquapark beside the Curonian Try your luck catching carp, trout This cosy lakeside restaurant is
Lagoon (see p307), this simple or pike in the lake or just stop by set amidst pretty gardens and is
restaurant has great views from its this thatched mini-village with part of the Linelis hotel (see p307).
summer terrace and serves freshly rooms, a campsite, a brewery and The menu features local and
caught fish and regional dishes saunas for a hearty fish or interna tional cuisine and a good
made with local ingredients. meat meal. selec tion of wines.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp308–9

332 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SHOPPING IN ESTONIA

Traditional handicrafts and souvenirs can be specialities, including handicrafts, locally
found all over Estonia. The country’s retail woven textiles such as blankets and rugs, and
sector is, in general, quite uniform outside high-quality organic honey from local farms.
the major towns of Tallinn, Tartu and Pärnu. Most towns hold small markets where visitors
Shopping malls have had a considerable can find food and household items. Antique
impact on smaller towns and the same stores stores also sell some interesting objects.
and brand names fill out the bulk of these Prices are usually lower outside Tallinn.
identikit malls. Despite this, towns and Estonian chocolate, alcohol and cigars are
villages are good places to find local readily available in most supermarkets.

can claim a VAT refund
on some goods over
€127. Ask the shop
for a VAT refund
cheque, which then
needs to be stamped
by customs. You can
get a refund at Tallinn
Airport, or check
www.globalrefund.com
for locations.
Sales
Throughout Estonia,
sales are usually held
in the middle and at
Stockmann, one of the best department stores in Estonia the end of a season,
although the most
Opening Hours Rights and Refunds
significant reductions are
Most shops are generally open In Estonia, all goods come reserved for the New Year
from 10am to 6 or 7pm on with a two-year warranty sales. Watch out for a sign in
weekdays, and from 10am under EU law. However, after shop win dows, which may
to 5pm on Saturdays and a period of six months from read as allahindlus (discount),
Sundays. Shopping centres the date of purchase, the soodusmüük (sale), lõpumüük
usually open from 10am to 8 or customer might be asked to (final sale), or tühjendusmüük
9pm daily. In small towns and prove that the defect existed (everything must go).
villages, opening hours are at the time of buying and was
more erra tic at weekends, with not introduced later. Warranties
many shops only opening for are only effective on produc- Markets
half a day or staying closed. tion of a valid receipt. Just about every Estonian
Grocery stores normally keep Refunds remain discretionary town has a market, known as
longer hours, and in Tallinn on the part of the seller, a turg, although they often
there are several 24-hour although most major stores only sell fruit, vegetables,
convenience stores. will provide a refund as long household goods and other
as there is no damage to the everyday items. There is little
goods and the receipt is in the way of souvenirs or
How to Pay
produced. Legal guidance can curios to be found in these
All large stores and the majority be sought from the Consumer markets. Kuressaare market in
of small shops throughout Centre of Estonia (see p335), Saaremaa is a rare exception.
Estonia accept most major which protects consumer It also sells trinkets, such as
credit and debit cards. Retail rights in the case of cross- dolomite-carved objects, in
outlets promi nently display border purchases. addition to local produce. For
logos for accepted credit and Estonian mementos the best
debit cards. Visitors may be bet is to attend one of the
asked for proof of identity when VAT Exemption annual folk or town festivals
paying with a credit card. Nearly all goods and services held across the country. During
However, most market stalls are subject to 20 per cent VAT, these, temporary markets are
and out-of-the-way places which is always included in the set up, with stalls selling an
accept only cash. display prices. Non-EU citizens array of local delicacies, quirky

SHOPPING IN EST ONIA 333


souvenirs. In Tallinn, traditional
items, such as hand-knitted
mittens and socks, lace,
ceramics, amber, leather-bound
books, silver ware and objects
carved out of limestone, are
widely available. Kihnu Island
(see p105) is famed for its
colourful and elaborately
patterned handmade rugs,
as well as thick woollen
fishermen’s jumpers made
by the island’s inhabitants.
In southeastern Estonia,
home to the Setu people
(see p124), one can purchase
authentic examples of the
embroidered shawls and ornate
Fashionable clothes and accessories displayed at the Kaubamaja store in Tallinn jewellery that are unique to
their culture. The Setu were also
gifts and a fascinating range but they offer little for the the only people in Estonia to
of handicrafts, including discerning shopper. commonly use pottery, which is
colourful ceramics, stained Supermarkets, such as sold in several ceramics shops.
glass and woodcarvings. Selver and Rimi, are extremely Today, pottery fairs peddle their
common throughout Estonia. wares in the main Setu towns.
These enormous hyper markets The use of dolomite is unique
Department Stores and sell just about every thing one to Saaremaa Island (see pp96–9).
Shopping Malls
can think of, from everyday Dolomite is used to make a
The country’s best department household items to an wide range of souvenirs, such
stores, such as Stockmann extensive range of alcoholic as carved ashtrays and pestles
and Kaubamaja (see p335), drinks, chocolates, cigarettes and mortars. Muhu Island is
are in Tallinn, although and music. famous for its embroidered
Kaubamaja has opened a handmade slippers and bright
huge department store in orange knitwear. Pärnu (see
Tartu. Shopping malls are far Regional Specialities pp102–3) is known for its linen
more prevalent and are Visitors can buy a number of and the most popular souvenirs
springing up in town centres popular local products from all in the coastal resort of Haapsalu
and suburbs all around the over Estonia. The country has a (see pp92–3) are hand-woven
country at a phenomenal rate. stunning selection of regional and beautifully patterned
Malls are good for essentials, specialities that make ideal white shawls.























Beautifully crafted cane baskets on sale in a local market

334 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Shopping in Tallinn
Tallinn has witnessed a proliferation of sleek new shopping
malls in recent years. Most international brand names can be
found alongside a considerable range of popular Scandinavian
brands. Tallinn’s Old Town, which has some exclusive fashion
boutiques and speciality art shops, is also one of the best places
in the capital for gift shopping and souvenir hunting. Almost
every street has something in the way of traditional handicrafts,
such as ceramics, glassware, linen, wooden utensils and toys.
There are plenty of stores and market stalls which specialize in
art, antiques, jewellery, amber, knitted woollens, patchwork
Colourful ceramic collection at the stylish
quilts and interesting knick-knacks. The Christmas Market in Bogapott studio
Town Hall Square is especially popular and brings together
virtually every imaginable Estonian product.
Handicrafts
Much more than just souvenirs
aimed at tourists, Estonian
handicrafts are synonymous
with a traditional way of life that
persists even today. Tallinn
abounds with a bewil dering
variety of handicrafts. Wooden
toys and utensils are particularly
common as are a wide range of
ceramics, inclu ding candle-
holders modelled after the Old
Town buildings. Traditionally
woven rugs are still made today,
some of which are more like
Russian dolls and amber jewellery for sale on one of Tallinn’s souvenir stalls works of art with their beautiful
and elaborate patterns.
Markets
the corner of Viru and Bogapott, an exclusive
Tallinn’s main market, the Müürivahe covers a sizeable ceramics studio, and Galerii
open-air Central Market, offers stretch of the Old Town wall Kaks, with its wide range of
a glimpse into the everyday life and is a great place to find a textiles, are worthy of a visit.
of the city’s inhabitants. Stalls gift. Uus Käsitööturg, a popular Nukupood stocks handmade
full of fresh produce may not stall in the market, has a good toys as well as dolls dressed in
offer much variety for the selec tion of traditional traditional folk costumes of
average souvenir-hunter, but handicrafts and souvenirs. The Estonia. In Katariina Gild,
the Central Market’s bustling Christmas Market in Town Hall craftsmen can be seen creat ing
atmosphere is worth the Square (see pp62–3), which runs handicrafts, jewellery and
experience. Those interested in through December, features ceramics. A-Galerii has a
shopping can try and haggle. everything from knitwear and dazzling selection of local
The market selling knitwear at decorative items to marzipan. handmade jewellery.

Art and Antiques
Tallinn’s contemporary art scene
offers plenty of galleries and
small shops that stock all
manner of attractive oil
paintings, graphic art, textiles,
sculpture and off-beat ceramics.
The city has several antique
stores selling everything from
Soviet-era paraphernalia to
exorbitantly priced Russian
icons. Emerging only in the
1990s, antique shops have
quickly become a fascinating
Woven baskets, knitting wool and textiles at the Town Hall Square market and flourishing retail niche.

SHOPPING IN EST ONIA 335


Special permission is needed DIRECTORY
to take some objects out of
the country, so check with the Handicrafts
shop manager before buying. A-Galerii
With a stunning range of bronze
items, silverware and crystals, Hobusepea 2. Tel 646 4101.
Reval Antiik and Shifara Art & Bogapott
Antiques are among Tallinn’s Pikk jalg 9. Tel 631 3181.
best antiques stores. ∑ bogapott.ee
Galerii Kaks
Books and Music Lühike jalg 1. Tel 641 8308.
The best bookstore in Tallinn for Katariina Gild
English-language books is Vene 12. Tel 644 5365.
Apollo. This outlet has a range
∑ katariinagild.eu
of gift books relating to Estonian Kaubamaja store, one of Tallinn’s leading
culture and history, as well as a shopping venues Nukupood
small selection of Estonian Raekoja plats 18. Tel 644 3058.
novels translated into English. halvah and blood sausage,
Look out for the English during the Christmas season. Art and Antiques
translation of The Czar’s Try the gourmet section at
Madman and Treading Air by Kaubamaja for a variety. For Reval Antiik
Jaan Kross (1920–2007), the chocolate lovers, Kalev, Estonia’s Harju 13. Tel 644 0747.
esteemed Estonian writer. largest and oldest chocolate ∑ reval-antique.ee
Estonia’s wealth of choral and and confec tionary producer, Shifara Art & Antiques
classical music also makes offers a wide range of
for a great gift. CDs of luxury chocolates Vana-posti 7. Tel 644 3536.
the works of with picturesque ∑ shifara-antique.ee
renowned composers, prints of Tallinn on
such as Heino Eller the box. These choco- Books and Music
(1887–1970), Eduard Logo of lates can be bought Apollo
Tubin (1905–82) and Kalev chocolate from local food stores. Estonia pst 9. Tel 633 6000.
Arvo Pärt (see p27), are Real chocolate ∑ apollo.ee
widely avail able, as are folk music connoisseurs should try the One of several branches.
and choral music compilations. handmade delicacies at Anneli
Lasering, one of the leading Viik. There are also numerous Lasering
music stores in Tallinn, has an bakeries selling delicious Pärnu mnt 38. Tel 627 9279.
impressive selection of various pastries and cakes. Stockmann, ∑ lasering.ee
kinds of music and a separate one of the largest department One of several branches.
section on classical music. stores, also stocks cakes, bagels
and savouries. Food and Drink
Vana Tallinn (see p312), a very
sweet brown liqueur, is Anneli Viik
considered to be the national Pikk 30. Tel 644 4530.
drink of Estonia. Those without a ∑ anneliviik.ee
sweet tooth may prefer it mixed
with coffee, while some people Kaubamaja
even drink it with milk. In terms Gonsiori 2. Tel 667 3100.
of sheer consumption, beer is ∑ kaubamaja.ee
by far the most popular drink in Liviko
Estonia. Saku Originaal is the Mere pst 6. Tel 683 7745.
dominant brand, but Tartu ∑ liviko.ee
Alexander and A Le Coq beers
are popular brews as well. There One of several branches.
Apollo, Tallinn’s primary bookstore, stocks a is an abundance of locally made, Stockmann
range of gift books as well as quality imported, Liivalaia 53. Tel 633 9539.
vodka, which is considerably ∑ stockmann.ee
cheaper than in other European
Food and Drink
countries. Saare Džinn, a gin Rights and Refunds
Estonian food products are flavoured with berries from the
ubiquitous and can usually be Estonian islands, is good too. Consumer Centre of Estonia
found in any supermarket. Rye Liviko, one of Estonia’s leading Pronksi 12. Tel 620 1708.
bread is a local staple, as are alcohol producers, has stores all ∑ consumer.ee
sprats, smoked fish and cheese, over Tallinn.

336 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SHOPPING IN LATVIA

Numerous supermarkets and shopping normally good places to pick up interesting
centres have opened in major towns and cities mementos when a town or village lacks a
throughout the country since 1991. However, dedicated souvenir retailer. Several workshops
Rīga undoubtedly has the country’s largest across the country allow visitors to watch
range of shopping options. This is particularly artisans at work and even make their own
true when it comes to items likely to be of pottery, woodwork and other items to take
interest to visitors, although outside the home. Latvian markets cater mostly to local
capital it is usually possible to find typical people, but can still be fascinating places to
handicraft items such as amber jewellery and visit. Local honey, chocolate, beer or a bottle of
embroidered knitwear. Museum gift shops are Black Balsam can make excellent gifts.

Opening Hours
in the airport or the land at tourists and are most useful
Most shops in Latvia open borders with Russia, at for everyday food purchases.
around 10am. Small shops close Terehova and Grebņeva. However, some markets are
around 6 or 7pm, while bigger For departures from other extremely atmospheric, such
malls and shopping centres locations, the receipt should as Petertirgus in the covered
usually stay open until 10pm. be stamped and sent to Global market hall in Liepāja (see
Many small shops remain closed Blue Latvia (see p339), along pp184–5), which is a real throw-
on Sundays. with the visitor’s bank details, back to the Soviet era. In the
within six months. summer months, some
markets, like the ones in
How to Pay Jūrmala, sell souvenirs as
Sales
In cities and large towns, it is well as fresh produce.
possible to pay with debit Although locally made items
cards and major credit cards are fairly cheap compared to
such as MasterCard or VISA. those in other EU countries, Department Stores and
Some places will also accept prices for imported goods tend Shopping Malls
American Express and Diners to be high in Latvia, a situation Most sizeable towns have at
Club. In smaller towns and which has not been helped by least one department store or
villages cash payment in the regular bouts of high inflation. supermarket. Several malls and
local currency, the euro, may One way of picking up a shopping centres have been
be the only option. bargain is to visit the end-of- built in important cities such
It is rare for traveller’s season sales, when shops as Rīga, Ventspils, Liepāja and
cheques to be accepted as reduce their prices. Daugavpils. Some of these
payment outside Rīga, the malls are loca ted in the
capital city, although those outskirts of the cities, while
issued by major companies Markets others are more central and
can usually be exchanged at Most Latvian towns have easy to access. The larger
most banks. regular or even daily markets, retailers include Rimi, Maxima
although they are rarely aimed and Mego.
VAT Exemption
Visitors from non-EU countries
are entitled to a VAT refund of
up to 12 per cent, provided
that the items were purchased
in a shop displaying the “Tax
Free” logo and the total price
of purchases made from the
shop was at least 50 euros.
Identification must be shown
at the point of purchase, and a
Global Refund receipt com-
pleted. Purchased items
cannot be used until the
receipt is stamped by a
customs official when leaving
the country. The VAT can be
reclaimed at the customs zone Collection of fresh produce for sale at the Central Market, Rīga

SHOPPING IN LA T VIA 337
























Handcrafted items displayed at the Ludza Handicrafts Centre, Eastern Latvia
Handicrafts
Kalniņš making replicas of lost during war and occupation.
Traditional Latvian handicrafts ancient designs. Another place In spite of this, antique shops
include handmade linen, amber to find handicraft items is the are well worth exploring,
jewellery, woodwork and branch of Tornis in the tower of especially because they often
knitwear embroidered with Turaida Castle near Sigulda. stock interesting items.
popular Latvian folk symbols. The best place to buy art is
Motifs from the natural world, in com mercial art galleries.
such as the sun, stars or trees, Food and Drink A licence, which is available at
are commonly used as part of Available in many varieties, most shops, is usually required
the repertoire of geometric Laima (see p339) chocolate has before genuine antiques can be
designs found on many been made in Latvia for decades exported. The shops are helpful
handcrafted goods. A parti- and is among the coun try’s most with the paperwork.
cularly attractive popu lar buys.
example is the Another common
Lielvārdes josta, a gift is Rīga’s Black Amber
long red-and- Balsam, a herbal Amber jewellery is a popular
white woven belt liqueur that is Latvian souvenir, despite the
which features A bar of Laima, Latvia’s supposed to have fact that resin is less commonly
symbolic patterns, favourite chocolate medicinal properties, discovered in Latvia than
and is a part of which comes in an Lithuania. It is readily available
Latvian wedding costumes. attractive ceramic bottle. Visitors in tourist areas, such as Jūrmala,
These belts are available in usually prefer it in cocktails or and in some museum shops.
souvenir shops in Rīga, and can with blackcurrant juice rather Buyers should be aware that
be seen on display at the than neat. not all amber is genuine, as
Pumpurs Museum in Lielvārde, Beer also makes a good gift. various plastics are used to
or even made to order. Latvians are enthusiastic beer- emulate it. Visitors spending a
Visitors can watch artisans at drinkers so there are several large sum of money on amber
work in several places, such as brands to choose from. The objects should ask for a
the House of Craftsmen in most popular ones are inter- certificate of authenticity, and
Liepāja. The Handicrafts Centre nationally owned, but more it is generally safer to buy from
in Ludza has work shops where unusual brews include the an established shop rather
visitors can try their hand at craft- yeasty Užavas, which is made than a street-seller.
ing items themselves. Musical near Ventspils, and Valmiera’s
instru ments can be purchased Valmiermuiža.
from the Musical Instruments Roadside Stalls
Workshop in Gaigalava. In the countryside, especially in
The Smithy of Ancient Art and Antiques rural Latgale, it is common to
Jewellery in the New Castle in Genuinely valuable Latvian see stalls at the side of the road
Cēsis calls itself a workshop of antiques are not easy to find, selling fresh produce. Latvian
experimental archaeology, with partly because the 20th century honey is particularly delicious
master craftsman Daumants saw many of them destroyed or and also makes a good gift.

338 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Shopping in Rīga designs, while modern styles
from up-and-coming designers
Once a member of the powerful Hanseatic League (see p36), can be found at Klase in
the Latvian capital has had a distinguished mercantile history. Berga Bazaars.
Although its harbour is no longer one of the most important In addition to countless
in the region, commerce has flourished since the restoration places selling amber neck laces
and bracelets, there are several
of independence, with boutiques and department stores shops offering more unusual
springing up through out the city. Specialist shops can be jewellery. The stylish Putti
found all over the Old Town and in shopping malls, while gallery stocks jewellery by
major high-street brands are available in Centrs. Souvenir Latvian designers and also
shops, mostly found in the Old Town, sell handicrafts of holds exhibitions.
variable quality including linen, amber jewellery and
knitwear. Handmade chocolates and Rīga Black Balsam, Handicrafts
the city’s signature drink, are popular gifts. There are numerous souvenir
shops in the Old Town stock ing
items such as linen and
Department Stores and clientele for folk wooden toys. In some
Shopping Malls
recordings. Rīga’s best cases, however, these
The years since independence music outlet is Upe, a are mass-produced
have witnessed the develop ment chain owned by the former rather than handmade. More
of many shopping centres and frontman of folk-rock band unique and practical gifts can
department stores as well as the Jauns Mēness. Upe specializes be found in Riija, which offers
renovation of stalwarts such as in folk music from Latvia and ecologically produced crafts
the 1920s Galerija Centrs. beyond, and also has a and house hold items.
Upmarket boutiques and wine bar. Randoms is Decorative wall lamp Pienene boasts a wide
galleries can be found at Berga perhaps the biggest range of souve nirs, while
Bazārs, a 19th-century enclave music shop in the Baltic States. more can be found in the open-
of shops, offices, restaurants and Cheap CDs can be bought at the air Egle craft market. Some shops
apartments. The Galleria Rīga Central Market, although bootleg also sell Russian objects such as
shopping mall is the hub of versions are rife. matryoshka, wooden dolls of
designer fashion, while mc² has various sizes that are placed
stores specializing in gourmet one inside the other.
food and home accessories. Clothing and Jewellery
For more basic shopping there Handwoven garments, lace
is Stockmann, on the edge of items and knitwear are popu lar Art and Antiques
the Old Town. souvenirs. Designer clothes are There are many commercial art
available at upmarket stores, galleries in Rīga and the tourist
while smaller shops sell information office can provide an
Markets
traditional woollen garments. up-to-date list. Māksla XO is one
Housed in five huge zeppelin Tines sells handmade wool of the city’s most highly regarded
hangars, Rīga’s Central Market and linen items in traditional galleries. Art Nouveau Rīga, a
has most of its indoor space
dedicated to food, while the
stalls and kiosks selling CDs,
clothes and electrical goods are
outside. Also of interest is the
covered outdoor antiques and
organic food market on the
second and fourth Sunday of
each month at Berga Bazārs.
Latvians love to give flowers
and the city’s main Flower
Market is open 24 hours a day,
through the year.

Music
Folk music was a key part of the
National Awakening Movement
(1856), although in the years
since independence it has
become harder to find a sizeable A shopper browsing for souvenirs at Art Nouveau Rīga

SHOPPING IN LA T VIA 339


Food and Drink
Laima has been one of Latvia’s
leading chocolate makers since
1870 and it has many shops
throughout Rīga, as well as a
chocolate museum. In recent
years, however, its position
has been challenged by
the more upmarket Emils
Gustavs Chocolate, which
also has several sophisticated
stores in Rīga.
For something more
Amber jewellery displayed in a shop window traditional, many varieties of
honey are available for tasting
Amber
leading souvenir shop, offers at the Jāņa Bišu Honey Room,
attractive reproductions, along Rīga has dozens of shops along with other bee-related
with scarves, mugs and other selling amber jewellery. products. Desa & Co (Sausage
objects inspired by early Hard to miss is Amber Line, & Company) is one of the few
20th-century designs. The shop which has numerous places in the city where visitors
is conveniently located at the branches all over the city. can taste and buy deer, wild
end of Alberta iela, a street with IG Romuls, under the pig and bison, all raised on
the city’s most impres sive Town Hall, sells amber their farm in the Latvian
Art Nouveau buildings. jewellery in traditional countryside, along with
Rīga also has a fine selection of and more modern styles, other locally produced
antique shops, mostly clustered designed by two ecological items. The
around Brīvības iela. Upmarket generations of the famous Rīga Black Balsam
emporiums include Doma Romuls family. Amber also makes a popular gift,
Antikvariāts, while Art Embassy can also be bought from which pro bably has as
specializes in diverse artworks street stalls and even in much to do with the
created in Latvia during the 20th the Central Market, but ceramic bottles it comes
century. Religious icons and be aware that such in as with the drink itself.
musical instruments are available items might not be Rīga Black It is widely avail able
at Volmar. the genuine article. Balsam throughout the city.
DIRECTORY
Department Upe Riija IG Romuls
Stores and Vaļņu iela 26. Tel 6720 Tērbatas iela 6/8. Ratslaukums 1. Tel 2655
Shopping Malls 5509. ∑ upeveikals.lv Tel 6728 4828. ∑ riija.lv 5363. ∑ romuls.lv
Berga Bazārs Clothing and Art and Antiques Food and Drink
Dzirnavu iela 84. Jewellery
∑ bergabazars.lv Art Embassy Desa & Co
Klase Ausekla iela 6A. Maskavas iela 4.
Galerija Centrs Tel 2918 5957.
Dzirnavu iela 83/85. Tel 6721 6186.
Audēju iela16. Tel 2779 1635. Art Nouveau Rīga
Tel 6701 8018. ∑ modesklase.lv Strēlnieku 9. Emils Gustavs
∑ galerijacentrs.lv Tel 6733 3030. Chocolate
Putti Blaumaņa iela 38/40.
Galleria Rīga
Peitavas iela 5. Tel 6721 Doma Antikvariāts Tel 2765 9383.
Dzirnavu iela 67. Tel 6750 4229. ∑ putti.lv Smilšu iela 8. ∑ emilsgustavs.com
8000. ∑ galleriariga.lv Tel 2916 6504.
Tines Jāņa Bišu
mc² Vāgnera iela 5. Māksla XO Pēterbaznīcas iela 17.
Krasta iela 68a. Tel 6721 1009. ∑ tines.lv Elizabetes iela 14. Tel 6722 4355.
Tel 6700 6868. ∑ mc2.lv Tel 2948 2098. ∑ daugmalesmedus.lv
Handicrafts
Stockmann Volmar Laima Museum & Shop
13 Janvāra iela 8. Tel 6707 Egle Krāmu iela 4. Miera iela 22. Tel 6615
1222. ∑ stockmann.lv Kalķu iela 1a. Tel 2550 Tel 6721 4278. 4777 . ∑ laimaso-
5268. ∑ spogulegle.lv kolades muzejs.lv
Music Amber
Pienene VAT Exemption
Randoms Kungu iela 7/9. Amber Line
Kaļķu iela 4. Tel 6722 Tel 6721 0400. Torņa iela 4. Tel 6732 Global Blue Latvia
5212. ∑ randoms.lv ∑ studijapienene.lv 5058. ∑ amberline.lv ∑ global-blue.com

340 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SHOPPING IN LITHUANIA

The souvenirs and gifts available in Lithuania superior quality and in greater variety can be
usually consist of traditional arts and found at specialist shops, which are
handi crafts made from local materials such commonly located close to the major tourist
as amber, ceramics and wood. Beautiful sights. Food and drink in Lithuania are
handmade flax or linen tablecloths and throw distinctive in taste. The local cheeses and
blankets, garments and soft toys are often smoked meats on offer are varied and
available at reasonable prices. The shops and delicious. The wide choice of Lithuanian
stalls of the Old Towns in the larger cities, as alcohol – such as trauktinės, often described
well as the various resorts, are flooded with as a bitter brandy – as well as vodka and beer,
most of these objects. Handicrafts of a are great souvenirs to carry back home.

Opening Hours
shopping cheque, available at Shopping malls have a main
Shops in Lithuania are usually stores where the “Tax-Free anchor tenant, which tends to
open from 9 or 10am until 6pm Shopping” sign is displayed. be one of the leading nation-
on weekdays. Some gift and Shoppers should have their wide supermarket chains. As a
souvenir shops open at 10am. passport with them at the time result, the range of goods
Food shops and supermarkets of purchase. VAT can be paid available is practically the same
belonging to larger chains often back only if the outward journey as that found in the rest of
open at 8am and close late in is made by air, road or sea; rail is Europe. For more authentic
the evening. exempt. Visitors need to spend a shops, visit the Old Towns in
The Soviet-era practice of minimum of 50 euros, including the major cities.
closing for an hour for lunch is VAT, in a shop in one day to
slowly fading and a handful of claim the refund of sales tax.
supermarkets are open 24 Amber
hours a day. Many shops open Lithuanian artisans have
on Saturdays until 4pm, and Department Stores and applied great imagination to
some in tourist areas and in Shopping Malls the crafting of amber, an indis-
large city and town centres are To meet the growing demands put able part of the country’s
open on Sundays as well. In of local consumers, sprawling cultural heritage. They fashion
smaller towns and villages, local modern shopping complexes it into jewellery, lampshades,
stores close early so visitors are being constructed in writing materials and a great
should avoid leaving shopping Vilnius as well as in most of range of other objects.
until the evening. Lithuania’s large towns and Amber comes in browns,
cities. The malls are replacing greens and other colours,
the old department stores besides the more familiar
How to Pay
dating from the Soviet era, yellow. It is also available as
As in the other countries of whose interiors were usually original polished stones, of
the Baltic region, almost all adapted in the 1990s to fit the which the most valuable
shops in Lithuania accept needs of small traders. and exquisite are those that
major international credit
and debit cards. Some smaller
retail outlets may accept only
cash. Bargaining is rarely
practised except at some
market and souvenir stalls, but
visitors are welcome to try.

VAT and Tax-Free
Shopping
In Lithuania sales tax, known
locally as pridėtinės vertės
mokestis (PVM), is levied on most
goods at a flat rate of 21 per
cent. By law, visitors from non-EU
nations can claim a refund of
sales tax from customs when
they leave the country, provided
they have completed a tax-free Europa (see p342), a stylish shopping mall in Vilnius

SHOPPING IN LITHU ANIA 341


fillings), spurgos (doughnuts),
smoked and steamed cheeses
and a range of products made
from curd and sour milk.
Smoked meats are usually
sold as long, thick sausages or,
even more authentically,
bound in balls. The best local
fish to buy is herring, normally
marinated and sold in sealed
packets. Some supermarkets
also have cafés where a tradi-
tional Lithuanian meal of
cepelinai (potato dumplings), as
well as kugelis (baked potato
pudding) and vėdarai (potato
sausage) can be sampled.
Lithuanian rye bread, such as
Souvenir stall on Theatre Square, Old Town, Klaipėda the widely used black bread or
the greyer palangos, can be
have insects, plants, leaves and The agricultural nature of bought from local stores.
feathers preserved in the Lithuania has helped in Traditional šakotis (tree cake)
fossilized resin. preserving many local customs and tinginys (handmade cakes)
and tradi tions. Black are commonly
ceramics, in the form of available. Mushrooms
Handicrafts and Regional pots, jugs, cups and and forest berries can
Specialities
figures, are among the also make unusual gifts,
Lithuanian craftsmen make all specia lities of the but visitors need a
manner of objects out of wood, southern region of customs clearance to
such as handcarved spatulas Dzūkija. Further north, carry them back. Local
and spoons, and grotesque Aukštaitija is known for favourites, such as
masks of devils and witches, its rich tradition of starka (aged, caramel-
whose distorted, freakish faces music and instruments, Cognac bottles coloured vodka), or
are traditionally displayed every espe cially its horns and on display trejos devynerios (herbal
Shrovetide. A far more pipes. In the west, the panacea), should not
acceptable wooden memento people of Žemaitija value their be missed. The best of the
is the rūpintojėlis, a constantly religious images, miniatures and many varieties of degtinė
worrying Christ-like figure who shrines, which often incorpo rate (Lithuanian vodka) include the
sits with his chin on one hand. traditional pagan symbols. excellent gold-topped
Another religiously themed Lithuanian vodkas, while the
souvenir commonly made out company Alita makes a popu lar
of wood is the crucifix. Food and Drink eponymous brand of brandy.
For the musically inclined, Traditional foods of all kinds are Švyturys Premium Pils and the
handcarved musical instru- sold in Lithuanian shops, Švyturys Ekstra Draught are
ments, such as the alluring including blynai (a thin potato both very fine bottled beers.
Lithuanian kanklės, or zither, pancake similar to a crêpe with For more infor mation on food
make an ideal gift. Russian both sweet and savoury and drinks see pages 310–13.
matryoshka dolls can be easily
bought from local markets.
Some of the most original
items of clothing that can be
bought in Lithuania are made
of flax. Shirts and blouses,
dresses and hand-crocheted
hats are all widely available,
particularly in the capital’s gift
and souvenir shops. A hand-
woven juosta, which is a sash
or waistband often used as
wedding attire besides being
used as a traditional form of
fortune-telling, is also widely
available and makes a good
souvenir to take home. Matryoshka dolls for sale at one of the many souvenir stalls in Lithuania

342 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Shopping in Vilnius mini-malls dotting the avenue,
boasts the Baltic region’s popu-
The main streets of the Old Town are lined with countless lar fashion stores such as Lindex
souvenir shops, stalls and galleries that spec ialize in the and H&M. However, most of
national favourites of amber, linen, wood and ceramics. the outlets for more expensive
Many of the better quality craft shops and art galleries are brands tend to be found in the
Old Town along Vokiečių and
also hidden in the Old Town’s labyrinth of narrow lanes and Didžioji gatvė (street). Vilnius
courtyards, so it is worth exploring off the beaten track. also has its own treasured and
Away from the Old Town, Gedimino prospektas (avenue) has highly sought-after designers
a number of cloth ing stores, bookshops and several shopping with their individual bouti ques,
centres, while bigger malls with huge spaces for fashionable such as Ramunė Piekautaitė.
Perhaps Lithuania’s most visually
shopping can be found further afield. With so many choices, impressive shopping mall is
Vilnius has evolved into a shopper’s paradise. Europa, which brands itself as
a fashion and style centre.
Markets
Traditional Arts and
The most extraordinary market
in Lithuania is Gariūnai, loca ted Crafts
next to Vilnius’s towering water- Shops and stalls selling
heating facility, about 5 km traditional Lithuanian arts and
(3 miles) southwest of the city crafts are most easily found
centre. The market sells along Pilies, Didžioji and
everything from cheap clothes, Aušros vartų streets. Prices
shoes, toys, toiletries and vary, so it is best to scan the
cosmetics to food, gadgets and market stalls before buying
even cars. Traders come from One of the paintings for sale on anything. Quaint outlets selling
far and wide to sell their wares Pilies gatvė handmade artifacts at cheaper
and, unlike at other markets in rates are tucked away in
the country, bargaining is which mostly stocks a variety the narrow lanes leading
widely practised in Gariūnai. It of fresh fruit and vegetables, off the Old Town artery.
is open from sunrise to lunch- cheese, meat and cakes. Linen & Amber Studio, a
time every day of the week chain of gift shops, is among
except Mondays. The best the best places to find
time to visit the market is on Fashion and Clothing handicrafts made of amber and
weekend mornings. The spruced-up Gedimino flax. These shops stretch up the
At the southern edge of the prospektas is the best place to entire length of Pilies gatvė
Old Town, near the bus and shop for clothes and footwear. and beyond; the one on Stiklių
train stations, is Halės Market, Gedimino 9, one of the new gatvė is among the largest.
























Market stall displaying traditional amber jewellery in Vilnius’s Old Town

SHOPPING IN LITHU ANIA 343


For those interested in gifts
and accessories made by
local textile artists, a good
destina tion is Aukso Avis.
Funky felt hats, bags and
jewellery, screen-printed
shirts, garments and silk-
printed wall pieces can be
purchased here. Visitors can
also craft their own sou venirs
on the spot. Sauluva is one of
the best and most reliable
options as it stocks an assort-
ment of Lithuanian handicraft
items made of wood, ceramics,
glass, dried flowers and amber.

Art Galleries
Inside the elaborately frescoed Littera bookshop, Vilnius University
Vilnius has an astonishing
range of imaginative gift ideas, lined with a surfeit of galleries Vilnius University complex,
displayed in a number of small and gift shops. Among them, is attractive and has a lively
art galleries such as Galerija Užupio Galerija, a working atmosphere. It is worth visiting
R&A. Quirky paintings, colour- gallery selling metal and enamel as much for the stun ning
ful plates designed with old pieces, is the most interesting. frescoed walls and ceiling as it
photo graphs, vases and curios is for its books.
for shelves and mantelpieces There is a lack of a single,
cover the gallery space. At Books and Music all-encompassing record store
e.k.art in the Old Town, original Vilnius has a large number of in Vilnius. However, Muzikos
artwork and antiques from small, yet very intriguing, book- Bomba in the Europa mall has
the last few centuries, from stores. Most of them sell locally a fair collection of Lithuanian
Lithuania and abroad, are published English-language and international music. It
eclectically displayed reference and coffee- also sells music under its own
in one place. Many table books, original as record label. Fans of jazz, blues
upscale galleries in well as translated local and rock should not forget
Vilnius mount shows and inter national to visit Thelonious, a quirky
of the work of fiction, along with basement store in the Old
Lithuania’s fore most maps and postcards. Town stacked with records,
painters and Vaga has a whole CDs and old-fashioned hi-fi
sculptors. These upper floor which equipment. The Humanitas
works are regularly has a good collection bookstore has a fine selection
offered for sale. of books in English. of art books in English, as well
The bohemian Colourful painting at an Littera (see p226), the as a small collection of local
district of Užupis is art gallery bookshop within the music CDs.
DIRECTORY
Markets Ramunė Piekautaitė Sauluva Books and Music
Didžioji 20. Tel 231 Literatų 3 & Pilies 21. Tel
Gariūnai Market 2270. ∑ ramunepiek 212 1227. ∑ sauluva.lt Humanitas
Vilnius–Kaunas highway. autaite.com Dominikonų 5. Tel 262
Halės Market Art Galleries 1153. ∑ humanitas.lt
Pylimo & Bazilijonų street Traditional Arts e.k.art Littera
corner. and Crafts
Didžioji 27. Tel 6052 2222. Vilnius University,
Aukso Avis
Fashion and ∑ ek-art.lt Universi teto 5.
Clothing Pilies 38. Tel 250 2602.
Tel 261 0421. Galerija R&A
Europa Linen & Amber Pranciškonų 8. Tel 6858 Thelonious
Konstitucijos 7a. Tel 6169 Studio 0080.∑ galerijara.lt Stiklių 12. Tel 212 1076.
5680. ∑ pceuropa.lt ∑ thelonious.lt
Didžioji 10. Užupio Galerija
Gedimino 9 Tel 210 7279. Užupio 3–l. Tel 231 Vaga
Gedimino 9. Tel 262 9812. ∑ lgstudija.lt 2318. ∑ uzupioart Gedimino 50. Tel 249
∑ go9.lt One of several branches. gallery.com 8393. ∑ vaga.lt

344 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN ESTONIA

Estonia has a strikingly dynamic and eclectic part in their social lives. A vast array of rustic-
entertainment scene. The larger towns and style pubs can be found in major towns and
cities, especially Tartu and Pärnu, have a cities, offering a hearty meal, a friendly
crowded cultural calendar as well as a good environment and some times vibrant, toe-
nightlife scene. Classical music lovers are tapping folk music. Smaller towns, such as
spoiled for choice all through the year as a Haapsalu, Narva and Kuressaare, have
range of nationwide and local concerts takes numerous bustling nightclubs and bars.
place, given by a fine selection of national A major part of Estonia’s cultural life revolves
and international performers. Saaremaa around folk festivals, with almost every town
Island hosts many classical music festivals hosting some kind of celebration throughout
throughout the summer. Estonians are fond the year. For entertainment in Tallinn, refer
of wining and dining, which plays an integral to pages 346–7.

Classical Music Music Festival, held in June,
and Ballet
was established to explore the
Estonia has an outstanding connections between traditional
tradition of classical music and and world music. Other events
recitals are regularly hosted that draw large numbers of local
all over the country. Tartu’s and international musicians are
main concert venue, the the Viljandi Early Music Festival
Vanemuine, stages theatre, and the Saaremaa Opera Days.
classical music performances, For indie music fans, the
ballet, comedy, musicals highlight is the annual Plink
and special shows for Plonk festival in Tartu.
children. Pärnu Concert Eesti Muusika-
Hall (see p102) hosts a festivalid, available
wide range of concerts online, has the details of
A jam session in progress at the Viljandi and music events. all nationwide festivals.
Early Music Festival
Music Festivals Logo of Illusioon Nightlife
Information
A number of festivals nightclub, Tartu Tartu has an impressive
A good starting point for news are organized to range of pubs, clubs
about local concerts and promote modern and and bars to choose from. One
events is the nearest tourist traditional music. Vilandi’s of the best-known nightclubs
information office. The Baltic annual Suure-Jaani Music is Atlantis, while the most
Times also offers information Festival is held to comme- exclusive is Illusioon. Another
on arts and entertainment. All morate popular composers favourite is the Eduard Vilde
Estonian towns have their own Mart Saar and Villem Kapp, Lokaal, which has consistently
websites, which usually carry while Muhu Island’s Juu Jääb attracted a huge clientele. For
listings of what is happening
when. The publi cation In Your
Pocket covers Tallinn, Tartu,
Pärnu and other major
Estonian cities.

Booking and Prices
Bookings for cultural events can
be made at the venue or
through ticket agencies.
Piletilevi, the biggest ticketing
agency, offers both online
booking and ticket purchase.
A number of retail outlets
throughout Estonia also offer
the same service, particularly at
the Selver supermarket chain
and Statoil petrol stations. Brightly illuminated exterior of Tartu’s favourite nightclub, Atlantis

ENTER T AINMENT IN EST ONIA 345


DIRECTORY
Booking and Prices
Piletilevi
∑ piletilevi.ee
Classical Music
and Ballet
Vanemuine
Vanemuise 6, Tartu. Tel 744 0100.
∑ vanemuine.ee
Music Festivals
Eesti Muusikafestivalid
∑ festivals.ee
Performers at one of the many folk festivals held in Estonia
Nightlife
Cinema
something more laid-back, Atlantis
head to Möku, which has a Films are shown in their Narva mnt 2, Tartu. Tel 738 5485.
casual, bohemian feel. original language with Russian ∑ atlantis.ee
Pärnu also has a lively subtitles, though the choice Eduard Vilde Lokaal
nightlife. Lime Lounge is a of films outside Tallinn is Vallikraavi 4, Tartu.
stylish place for a drink, while decidedly poor. Most Tel 734 3400. ∑ vilde.ee
Postipoiss is a restaurant-cum- rea sonably large towns have
pub with frequent live music. a small cinema which shows German Pub
The slickest nightclub in town the latest blockbusters a few Puškina 10, Narva. Tel 359 1548.
is Sugar, while Mirage, another weeks after they are shown in ∑ germanpub.ee
club, is often packed. the capital. Hollywood films Illusioon
In Narva, head for the are regularly shown at Pärnu’s Raatuse 97, Tartu. Tel 742 4341.
German Pub for a drink small Apollo Kino. Tartu’s ∑ illusion.ee
in enjoyable surroundings. trendy Kino Ekraan, located John Bull Pub
Lemon Lounge, the club in in a shopping mall, is part of Lossipark 4, Kuressaare.
Haapsalu, is the place to head the same chain as Forum Tel 453 9988.
for fun weekend night outs. Cinemas Astri. Lemon Lounge
Kuressaare has a good choice The Black Nights Film Festival Posti 41, Haapsalu. Tel 473 7770.
of quality restau rants, pubs (see p53), celebrated in
and bars. With an attractive November and December, Lime Lounge
outdoor deck, the John Bull travels to Tartu, Viljandi, Narva, Hommiku 17, Pärnu. Tel 449 2190.
Pub is cheerful. Jöhvi and Kärdla, while Pärnu ∑ limelounge.ee
has a small film festival of its Mirage
own in July. Rüütli 40, Pärnu. Tel 447 2404.
Folk Festivals ∑ mirage.ee
Some of the most important Möku
festivals take place in July. Of Magasini 5, Tartu. Tel 2527 1030.
these, the Viljandi Folk Festival
is the biggest, attracting vast Postipoiss
numbers of dancers, musicians Vee 12, Pärnu. Tel 446 4864.
∑ trahterpostipoiss.ee
and singers each year. Another is
the Hiiu Folk Festival in Hiiumaa Sugar
(see pp94–5), which has a parti- Vee 10, Pärnu. Tel 442 1100.
cularly authentic ambience ∑ sugarclub.ee
created by its rustic setting. Cinema
August is also a busy month.
The splendid Narva Historic Apollo Kino
Festival stages an enactment of Lai 5, Pärnu. Tel 633 6000.
the Great Northern War (see p37) ∑ apollokino.ee
in Narva. Obinitsa hosts several Forum Cinemas Astri
festivals cele brating Setu culture Tallinna 41, Narva.
(see p124). The White Lady Days, ∑ forumcinemas.ee
held on the August full moon,
is a festival filled with merry- Kino Ekraan
making in the grounds of the Poster for an Estonian-language film, Riia 14, Tartu. Tel 734 3380.
castle in Haapsalu (see p92). Sigade Revolutsioon ∑ forumcinemas.ee

346 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Entertainment in Tallinn Rock, Pop, Jazz and Blues
Live music lovers are spoiled
Entertainment in Tallinn is astonishingly vibrant. Its classical for choice in Tallinn. Café
music and opera performances are world renowned and a Amigo attracts the biggest
major tourist draw. In recent years, the city has also started to local rock, pop and blues
attract some big international pop artists, although its local bands and holds nightly
performances. Von Krahl Baar
live-music scene is far more enjoyable. A plethora of venues in is one of the best places in the
Tallinn regularly host rock, jazz, blues and alternative music city to experience the local
perfor mances by local bands. The city’s pulsating nightclub alternative music scene, while
scene covers diverse genres, from mainstream pop to the industrial setting of the
underground club music. There is a large choice of places to Rock Café has a diverse range
of live music, ranging from
enjoy a drink. These usually stay open late into the night and blues to funk. Most of the
range from ultra-chic lounge bars to good old-fashioned, popular international acts that
pint-in-hand pubs. Theatre in Tallinn is generally of a very come to Tallinn play at the
high quality, but is mostly performed in Estonian, except outdoor Song Festival Grounds
during international festivals. (see p82). No99 hosts cosy
jazz concerts on Fridays and
Saturdays, as well as some jazz
Classical Music, Opera acts during the Jazzkaar
and Dance
festival (see p52).
Concerts by the Estonian
National Symphony Orchestra,
which are often held in the Pubs and Bars
Estonian Concert Hall (see Tallinn’s Old Town is packed
pp76–7) and the Estonian with bars and pubs of every
National Opera, regularly sell imaginable size and des cription.
out thanks to their consistently There are several well-acclaimed
high-quality performances and Irish and English-style pubs, such
pro ductions. However, there are as Mad Murphy’s and Scotland
also won derful chamber and Yard, which are as much
choral concerts held in favoured by expats as by foreign
churches and other visitors. Stylish and
more intimate Old classy lounge bars
A scene from Carlo Gozzi II Corvo at the Town locations are also extremely
Tallinn Linnateater every week, such popular among the
as Niguliste Church city’s well-heeled.
Information
(see pp68–9), the Logo of Hell Some of the best
Visitors can check Tallinn In Your House of Blackheads (see Hunt pub venues include the
Pocket, The Baltic Times and book- p70) and the Estonian chic Déjà Vu and the
ing website Piletilevi (see p345) Music Academy. The best of extravagant Lounge 24, which
for upcoming events in the city. both contemporary Estonian as affords spectacular views from
well as international dance the 24th floor of the Radisson Blu
performances are usually Sky Hotel (see p297). There are
Theatre
hosted at Kanuti Gildi Saal. also several smaller, cosier pubs
Tallinn has a proud tradition
of theatre and the flagship
Estonian Drama Theatre (see
p76) does a fine job of preser-
ving the national repertoire.
The Tallinn Linnateater specia-
lizes in contemporary work. The
best place for serious theatre
lovers is the Von Krahl Theatre,
the leading avant-garde theatre,
though English translations are
rare. It often stages various
intensely visual multimedia
productions. Russian-speakers
can visit the Russian Drama
Theatre, which puts on a range
of classic and contemporary
Russian theatre. Atmospheric interior of the stylish Déjà Vu lounge bar

ENTER T AINMENT IN EST ONIA 347


Cinema
In Tallinn, films are screened
in their original language with
subtitles. The diversity of
choice has dwin.dled due to
the arrival of the multi-screen
Coca-Cola Plaza and Solaris,
which show the latest
Hollywood blockbusters and
Estonian films. Arthouse and
inde pendent films are
screened at the impressive
Sõprus and Kino Artis. The
Panoramic view of the city from the terrace of Lounge 24, one of Tallinn’s classic lounge bars Black Nights Film Festival
(see p53) is a cinema lover’s
scattered around the Old Town, Vu and Studio, are just good, treat, when the best in world
which are far less frequented simple, fun places and are cinema gets a rare screening
by bois terous visi tors. Intimate equally popular with locals and in smaller cinemas.
places, such as Hell Hunt, foreign visitors. For the most
Tallinn’s first real tavern, and the exclusive hangouts head to
Drink Bar, which occasion ally Club Privé or Vabank and
features live bands, offer an marvel at the preening clien tele.
amiable atmosphere for a chat For showy bartending, clubbers
over a relaxing drink. could try out Venus Club.
Not all nightclubs in Tallinn
will suit all tastes, and some are
Nightclubs
downright dubious and as a
The amazing choice and variety result are best avoided. Rather
of nightclubs draws people than wandering into the first
from far and wide to Tallinn. nightclub they come across,
Most of the city’s best clubs are visitors are advised to do
situated in the Old Town, or some research and choose
within walking distance of it. their places of evening Movie posters displayed at the
Many, such as Café Amigo, Déjà entertainment carefully. Coca-Cola Plaza
DIRECTORY
Theatre Rock, Pop, Jazz Hell Hunt Vabank
and Blues Pikk 39. Tel 681 8333. Harju 13.
Russian Drama ∑ hellhunt.ee Tel 660 5299.
Theatre Café Amigo ∑ vabank.ee
Vabaduse väljak 5. Hotel Viru, Viru väljak 4. Lounge 24
Tel 641 8246. Tel 680 9380. Radisson Blu Sky Hotel, Venus Club
∑ veneteater.ee ∑ amigo.ee Rävala pst 3. Vana-Viru 14.
Tel 682 3424. Tel 551 9999.
Tallinn Linnateater No99
Lai 23. Sakala 3. Tel 668 8798. Mad Murphy’s Cinema
Tel 665 0800. Mündi 2.
∑ linnateater.ee Rock Café Tel 601 1070. Coca-Cola Plaza
Tartu mnt 80d. Tel 681 ∑ madmurphys.ee Hobujaama 5.
Von Krahl Theatre 0878. ∑ rockcafe.ee Tel 680 0684.
Rataskaevu 10. Scotland Yard ∑ forumcinemas.ee
Tel 626 9090. Von Krahl Baar Mere pst 6e.
∑ vonkrahl.ee Rataskaevu 10/12. Tel 653 5190. Solaris, Kino Artis
Tel 626 9090. ∑ scotlandyard.ee Estonia Pst 9.
Classical Music, ∑ vonkrahl.ee Tel 630 4111.
Dance and Opera Nightclubs ∑ kino.ee
Pubs and Bars Sõprus
Estonian Music Club Privé Vana-Posti 8.
Academy Déjà Vu Harju 6. Tel 644 1919.
Rävala 16. Vana Viru 8. Tel 631 0580. ∑ kinosoprus.ee
Tel 667 5700. Tel 5688 4455. ∑ clubprive.ee
∑ ema.edu.ee ∑ dejavu.ee
Studio
Kanuti Gildi Saal Drink Bar Sauna 1.
Pikk 20. Väike-Karja 8. Tel 5894 3261.
Tel 646 4704. ∑ saal.ee Tel 644 9433. ∑ clubstudio.ee

348 TRA VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN LATVIA

Latvia’s major cultural events are concentrated in clubs every evening. There are also some
in Rīga, although the dynamic festival good rock clubs, in addition to numerous
calendar includes plenty of reasons to explore bars that host live music. The sea side resort
the country beyond the capital. A few of Jūrmala is another hotspot during summer.
concerts and events are scheduled through Here, many bars and clubs open only for the
the year, but visitors need to consult a website tourist season and the Dzintari Concert Hall
or the tourist board as they are not regular. hosts concerts ranging from classical to pop.
The major exception is Liepāja, which has a Valmiera, considered to be the cultural capital
vibrant cultural life and its own symphony of the Vidzeme region, is another lively city.
orchestra. The city is also considered the For entertainment options in Rīga, see
home of Latvian rock bands, and DJs perform pages 350–51.


Classical Music
extra fee. Ticket Service has an
even larger network of outlets, and Opera
including at many post offices, The Latvian Music Information
Narvesen stores and Statoil Centre is a good resource for
petrol stations. Tickets can be details of musical performances
booked online and collected across the country. Some of the
from a sales office, or deli vered best classical music concerts
to an address within Latvia. Both take place at annual events,
agencies’ websites have such as the International Early
instructions in English, although Music Festival, which includes
most event descriptions are outdoor concerts in Rundāle
only in Latvian. Palace (see pp172–3) and
Bauska Castle (see pp170–71).
In Jūrmala, the Dzintari
Theatre
Concert Hall (see p175) stages
Most theatrical performances very high-quality events from
are in Latvian or Russian. June to August, on Saturdays.
One of Rīga’s tourist offices, which has Liepāja Theatre produces a Liepāja’s Holy Trinity Church
details of events in the capital mix of intimate drama and (see p184) hosts organ reci tals.
expansive theatrical works. The Liepāja Symphony
Information
The building’s restored Art Orchestra specializes in
Tourist information offices in Nouveau and Neo-Classical romantic music and hosts
Rīga provide details of interior is well worth a look. concerts throughout Latvia in
entertainment in the capital There are also occasional major cities such as Rīga,
and the rest of the country, travelling performances at Valmiera and Cēsis.
while regional tourist offices Saulkrasti Open-Air Stage With the exception of special
focus on local areas. Online and at the open-air stage in events, such as the annual
resources include the Latvian Reņķa Gardens, Ventspils. Sigulda Opera Festival, there
Culture Portal, which has a
search able nationwide
calendar, and Latvijas
Koncerti for classical
music events.
Booking and Prices
Tickets for cultural events are
generally very affordable in
Latvia, and bookings can be
made at the venue or through
a ticket agency. Biļešu
Paradīze has offices in several
of Rīga’s shopping centres and
major venues as well as con-
cert halls and cultural centres
around Latvia. Tickets can be
delivered internationally for an Scene from Uncle Vanya, by Anton Chekhov, performed at Liepāja Theatre