(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Estonia Latvia & Lithuania

WESTERN EST ONIA 99


R Kihelkonna Church
3 km (2 miles) NW of Kihelkonna.
Tel 454 6558. Open Jun–Aug: 10am–
5pm daily. 5
On the west coast of the island,
along the border of Vilsandi
National Park, this 13th-century
church is a treasure trove of
religious architecture and
artifacts. The organ, built in
1805, is the oldest in the
country, while the beautiful
pulpit dates from 1604. The altar
triptych, The Last Supper, is a
superb example of Renaissance
Two of the five Angla Windmills, standing tall in an open landscape church art.
open to the public, there is a nowhere, but people once } Vilsandi National Park
wonder ful assortment of flocked here for Sunday services 10 km (6 miles) W of Kihelkonna.
traditional play apparatus for from the surrounding villages. g from Papisaare. Tel 454 6880.
children just behind them. n Vilsandi National Park
E Mihkli Farm Museum Visitors’ Centre, Loona Manor.
R Karja Church 28 km (17 miles) NW of Kuressaare. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. 8 -
2 km (1 mile) NE of Angla Windmills, Viki. Tel 454 6613. Open mid-May– ∑ keskkonnaamet.ee
Karja village. Open mid-May–mid- Aug: 10am–6pm daily; Sep–mid-Oct: This huge national park
10am–6pm Wed–Sun. &
Sep: 10am–6pm daily. 5 comprises Vilsandi Island along
The medieval Karja Church (Karja ∑ saaremaamuuseum.ee with some 150 islets and a
kirik) is the smallest church in In the sleepy village of Viki, narrow strip of coast culminating
Saaremaa, but also one of the Mihkli Farm Museum in the rugged Harilaid Peninsula.
the most beautiful. It is (Mihkli talumuuseum) is a The park was established thanks
well known for its elabo- picturesque farm stead to a lighthouse keeper named
rate stone carvings, consisting of beautiful Artur Toom, who set up a bird
which include a relief thatched cottages, a sanctuary here in 1910. The
of the Crucifixion windmill, a brewery 239-sq-km (92-sq-mile) park in its
above the side door and even an old present form was founded in 1993.
and some remarkable sauna. Most of the The most significant bird
figures inside depic- buildings date from sanctuaries are located on the
ting saints. There is 1827–56. The Vaika Islands, off the western tip
also a famous bas museum has of Vilsandi, from where the
relief showing Mary Stone carving outside authentic displays imposing 40-m (131-ft) Vilsandi
and John at Cavalry, Karja Church of rural architecture Lighthouse can be seen. For
along with the two and traditional living some of the most striking
thieves whose souls depart their styles. The farm was active scenery, head to the Harilaid
bodies in the form of children. until Soviet times, when Peninsula. From here, it is
collectivization broke it up. possible to take an invigorating
R Kaarma Church Today, visitors can learn hike up to the leaning light-
15 km (9 miles) NW of Kuressaare, traditional methods of making house. The trail offers
Kaarma village. Tel 459 5322. bread and butter. evocative scenery.
Open no regular opening hours. 5
Dating from the 13th century,
Kaarma Church (Kaarma kirik) is
one of the oldest churches in
Western Estonia. A stone tablet
over the front portal attests to
repairs made to the church in
1407 and is considered to be
the first writ ten example of
the Estonian language. The
15th-century pulpit with a
polychrome figure of Joseph
beneath it is especially
impressive. The church may
appear incongru ously large,
standing in the middle of Display showing the interior of a rural household, Mihkli Farm Museum
The leaning Kiipsaare Lighthouse, Harilaid Peninsula, Saaremaa Island



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9 Pärnu equally opulent interior.
Intended as an architectural
Often referred to as Estonia’s summer capital, Pärnu has showpiece, St Catherine’s had
historic buildings, pastel-coloured wooden houses and a significant influence on
elegant late 19th-century villas set along leafy streets. The Orthodox churches through -
town centre is situated on an estuary between the Pärnu river out the Baltic States.
and the Baltic Sea, with all the main sights located within F Pärnu Concert Hall
walking distance. The Old Town is centred around the Aida 4. Tel 445 5800. Open 10am–
pedes trianized Rüütli Street, with the most pop ular beach a 6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat (box
10-minute walk away. With an ultra-modern concert hall and office). & 7 = ∑ concert.ee
high-quality theatre, Pärnu also has an exciting cultural scene. The Pärnu Concert Hall is a
source of great pride for local
people. The curvaceous glass
P Town Hall and steel building is a strong
Uus 4/Nikolai 3. example of modern archi tecture
The elegant Neo-Classical in the country and compares
building that is now the Town favourably with similar
Hall was erected in 1797 as a structures in other European
wealthy merchant’s residence. cities. Its seashell-like shape was
In 1819, the structure was intended to symbolize Pärnu’s
slightly altered to serve as the status as a coastal town. The
house for the town’s governor multifunct ional building mostly
and, in 1839, it took on its hosts theatre performances and
current function as Pärnu’s Town concerts, although it also
Hall. What makes it worth houses an art gallery, music
visiting is the magni ficent Art school and music shop.
Nouveau extension built in
1911. Its brooding dark exterior P Tallinn Gate
is in total con trast to the bright Mere pst.
yellow façade of the original The only trace of the 17th-
struc ture and provides a century ramparts that protected
fascinating juxtaposition of Green domes and yellow walls of Pärnu at one time, Tallinn Gate
two radically different St Catherine’s Church still offers a significant glimpse
architectural styles. of the once impressive
R St Catherine’s Church fortifications. Until 1710, when
R Elizabeth’s Church Vee 16. Tel 444 3198. Open 9am– Swedish rule came to an end,
Nikolai 22. Tel 443 1381. Open Jun– 5pm daily. 5 it was known as Gustav’s Gate,
Aug: 10am–6pm daily, Sep–May: Built in 1768 for the Pärnu named after King Gustav
10am–2pm Mon–Fri. 5 garrison during the reign of Adolphus of Sweden
∑ eliisabet.ee Catherine the Great, St (1594–1632).
Another excellent example of Catherine’s Church (Ekateriina Today, the Tallinn Gate’s only
local Baroque architecture, kirik) is arguably the finest function is to provide an elegant
Elizabeth’s Church (Eliisabeti Baroque church in Estonia. With portal between the Old Town
kirik) has an elegant ochre bottle-green domes and lemon- and the area leading to the sea.
exterior and a maroon spire yellow walls, the church boasts The cobble stoned passageway
towering above the surroun- an elegant exterior and an offers a pleasant walk.
ding narrow side streets. It was
founded specifically as a
Lutheran church, in 1747, by
the Russian Empress Elizabeth
(1709–61). Today, it serves as
the largest Protestant place of
worship in Pärnu.
The wood-panelled interior is
refined and understated, but all
the more impressive for it. The
church’s spire was built by
Johann Heinrich Wülbern, who
also const ructed Rīga’s St Peter’s
Church. Elizabeth’s Church is
also renowned for its organ,
one of the best in Estonia, built
in 1929 by H Kolbe. Verdant setting of the Tallinn Gate, formerly known as Gustav’s Gate
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp316–18


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WESTERN EST ONIA  103


E Lydia Koidula Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
J V Jannseni 37. Tel 443 3313. Open
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8 call in Practical Information
advance. ∑ parnumuuseum.ee Road Map D2.* 44,000.
A short walk across the Pärnu n Uus 4, 447 3000. _ Pärnu
river, the Lydia Koidula Museum Film Festival (Jul), Oistrakh Festival
provides a moving testimony to (Jul). ∑ visitparnu.com
Estonia’s most revered female Transport
poet. Established in 1945, it is k £ Riia mnt 116.
situated in the building where @ Pikk tänav.
her father, Johann Valdemar
Jannsen, ran a primary school Kronstadt. Although very
from 1857 to 1863. little of Lydia Koidula’s work is
A highlight of the museum is available in English, the museum
a recons truction of the bedroom is worth visiting for an interesting
Detail featuring an Art Nouveau mask, where Koidula died of cancer in insight into Estonian literature
Ammende Villa 1886 in the Russian town of of the period.
P Ammende Villa
Mere pst 7. Tel 447 3888. See Where to Lydia Koidula (1843–86)
Stay p298 and Where to Eat and Drink Lydia Emilia Florentine Jannsen is a highly influential figure in
p317. ∑ ammende.ee Estonian history. Although she was forced to write under the
Built in 1905 by a wealthy local pseudonym Koidula, meaning “of the
merchant for the wed ding party dawn”, because writing was not
of his beloved daughter, considered a suitable career for a
Ammende Villa is one of the woman at that time, her poetry was
most impressive examples of ecstatically received. Her My Country is
Art Nouveau architecture in the My Love became the unofficial national
country. Over the years, it has anthem during Soviet times. Some critics
served as a casino, a health believe that Koidula’s finest writing was
her passionate correspondence with the
estab lishment and a library, writer Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald,
before two Estonian business­ although his jealous wife eventually put
men renovated it and converted an end to it. Koidula later married a
it into a luxury hotel, with a Latvian doctor. She died of cancer in
beautiful fine­dining restaurant. Kronstadt, in the Gulf of Finland, pining Lydia Koidula, a major Estonian
The villa is located a short walk for her country to the last. writer and poet
from the sea and the Old Town.
Pärnu Pärnu Airport Lydia Koidula
5 km (3 miles) Museum
1 Town Hall Pärnu R I I A M A A N T E E
2 Elizabeth’s Church Pärnu
3 St Catherine’s Church Concert Hall
4 Pärnu Concert Hall KALDA A I D A H O M M I K U
5 Tallinn Gate Õ H TU V E E Railway Station
6 Ammende Villa A K A D E E M I A P Õ H J A 5 km (3 miles) Bus
Õ H T U St Catherine’s U U S M A L M Ö Ü H A VA I M U H O S P I D A L I H O M M I K U Station
P I K K
KESKVÄLJAK
P
Town
Hall
Church
Õ H T U P
RÜÜTLI
MUNGA
V E E
RÜÜTLI
K U N I N G A K U N I N G A
VN-TALLINNA
Elizabeth’s
Church
LÕ U N A LÕ U N A Koidula
Park
R I N G I
Tallinn
Gate PÜHAVAIMU
R E M M E L G A
MURU V E E
N I K O L A I N I K O L A I
0 metres 200 Ammende ESPLANAADI ESPLANAADI
MER E P U IESTEE
R I N G I R I N G I
Villa
0 yards 200
For keys to symbols see back flap
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0 Soomaa National Park ESTONIA

Soomaa National Park, an enchanting self-enclosed world
of bogs, rivers, swampland, meadows and virgin forest, was
Area of the
established in 1993. The 390-sq-km (151-sq- mile) park gets Pärnu map illustrated Viljandi
flooded in spring, which locals call the “fifth season”. However,
Soomaa’s five bogs are its best natural feature. Approximately
6 m (20 ft) high in places, they can be accessed along a series
of hiking trails set on wooden platforms. The park’s stunning Key
wildlife includes wolves, roe deer, brown bears, lynx, elk, wild Soomaa National Park
boar and lesser spotted eagles.


0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2



Navesti
Halliste
. Riisa Bog Trail Pärnu
The 5-km (3-mile) long bog trail,
close to the border of the park,
culminates in a group of bog pools. Riisa


Lemmjōgi
Raudna



Tõramaa

Raudna
Ingatsi Bog Trail Tõrama
Half of the 4-km (2-mile) trail is a
boardwalk that leads through swamp
forest and bog pools. Halliste


Lake
Karuskose Farm Oordi
Close to hiking trails Viljandi
and bog-land, this farm
offers guided walks,
fishing, canoeing and
traditional canoe-
building courses.





Key . Tõramaa Wooded Meadow Trail
A 2-km (1-mile) walk leads to this
Minor road
pretty trail, which allows visitors to
Trail explore the park and its well-
Park boundary preserved meadow.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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WESTERN EST ONIA  105


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST w Tori Stud Farm
Tori hobusekasvandus
Practical Information Pärnu mnt 10, Tori. Road Map D2.
Road Map D2. @ from Pärnu. Tel 503 1892.
n National Park Visitors’ Centre, Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri. &
Tõramaa, 435 7164. Open mid- 8 call one day in advance.
Apr–mid-Sep: 10am–6pm daily; ∑ torihobune.ee
mid-Sep–mid-Apr: 10am–4pm
Mon–Fri. 8 Aivar Ruukel, 506 Situated in the beautiful village
1896. ∑ soomaa.com
8  ® Karuskose Farm. of Tori, Tori Stud Farm is a good
stopping-off point on the way
Transport to nearby Soomaa National
£ from Tallinn. @ from Pärnu. Park. Estonia’s oldest horse farm,
it was established in 1856 by
the Livonian gen try with the
aim of breeding a strong local
stock. After several failed
attempts at improving the local
Kihnu Jõnn's grave on Linaküla, the main breed, a crossbred Norfolk-
village on Kihnu Island Roadster horse was brought in,
which became the basis for the
q Kihnu Island new breed. The stud farm is still
used for breeding pur poses
Road Map C2. * 600. k from
Pärnu. g from Munalaid, 40 km today, although its horses are far
(25 miles) SW of Pärnu. ∑ kihnu.ee more likely to be used for giving
horse-riding lessons than for
The tiny island of Kihnu has a ploughing the fields.
significant place in Estonian Tori Stud Farm is also a
culture. It is the only part of worthwhile excursion in itself.
the country where women still Visitors to the farm can partake
wear traditional dress and the in a range of activities, including
Flora islanders continue to live largely a guided tour of the farm which
The peat moss of the traditional life styles. Fishing introduces them to some of the
bogs is ideal for heather, remains a major source of 90-odd horses. Those interested
cran berries and Labrador income, as do the much- in old-fashioned transport can
tea. The sundew plant admired handmade clothes take a tour of the farm and
gets additional nutrition and mittens. There are four village in a horse-driven carriage
by catching insects. vill ages on the island, but as it is for a small fee charged on an
only 7 km (4 miles) long and hourly basis. It is possible to go
Raudna 3.5 km (2 miles) wide, it is easy sleigh-riding in winter.
to get around. The farm also boasts a
KEY In the main village of Linaküla wonderful little museum situ-
lies the grave of the legendary ated in a thatched wooden
1 Meiekose Hiking Trail, a
5-km (3-mile) route, is also Kihnu Jõnn (1848–1913), the barn. Its collection features a
suitable for cycling. island’s most famous inhabitant. fascinating assortment of exhi-
Born on Kinhu, Jõnn was a larger- bits relating to the history of
2 Kuresoo Bog, at 110 sq km
Lake than-life, hard-drinking sailor horse-breeding as well as the
Oordi (42 sq miles), is the largest of the who sailed around the globe. history of the local village.
bogs. Birds nest here in spring.
3 Lemmjõgi River Spit Forest
Trail is 5 km (3 miles) long.
4Kuuraniidu Study Trail has
information boards describ ing
the local flora.
5 Hüpassaare Hiking Trail is
5 km (3 miles) long, and passes
through forest and bog pools
before finishing at the Mart Saar
House Museum.
6 Öördi Hiking Trail, a 7-km
(4-mile) forest trail, starts from Iia
village on the Kõpu-Jõesuu road
and leads to Lake Öördi.
Tori Stud Farm, breeder of some of Estonia’s finest horses
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp316–18


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EST ONIA REGION B Y REGION  107

EASTERN ESTONIA


The landscape of Eastern Estonia, punctuated with rolling hills,
lush forests, limestone escarpments and pristine lakes, is more
diverse than the country’s western part. This truly fascinating
region combines idyllic scenery with picturesque old manor
houses and the unique cultural heritage of the Setu people
and Old Believers, which have survived through the centuries.

Despite its stunning landscape, some parts country’s nature reserves for the variety of
of Eastern Estonia are less frequented by its landscape and natural features. Further
tourists, especially the far northeast, along, the Ontika Coast, with its huge
southeast and around Lake Peipsi. The vast limestone escarpments and cas cading
mass of Lake Peipsi dom inates the central waterfalls, is breathtaking.
part of this region. The western shores of Sights of political, historic and social
the lake are dotted with the sizeable settle- history abound in the southeast as a
ments of Russian Old Believers who have whole. Viljandi is famous for its Folk Music
been living here for countless generations. Festival, while Estonia’s national flag was
Captured and conquered repeatedly by sanctified in Otepää, the winter sports
Russians from 1558 until Estonia’s capital, where snowboarding and ice
independence in 1991, the historic fortress skating bring the town to life. Tartu,
city of Narva still bears testimony to the Estonia’s second-largest city and its
enormous role Russia has played in spiritual and intellectual capital, is
shaping Estonia’s history. During World home to the nation’s oldest university.
War II, the value of oil-shale mining rose With attractions such as the grand
significantly, bringing Kohtla-Järve into Sangaste Manor and the captivating Suur
sharp focus. Today, this heavily industrial Munamägi viewing tower at the country’s
town serves as a vast, sprawling living highest point, the south and southeast are
monument to Soviet-era industry. among Estonia’s most scenic areas. In the
East of Tallinn, Lahemaa National Park far south east, the ethnographically distinct
is arguably the most beautiful of the Setu people continue to live traditionally.























Migrating flock of gulls flying across Lake Peipsi
Cathedral ruins rebuilt during the 19th-century as the university library, Tartu



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Exploring Eastern Estonia Viinistu Käsmu Altja Vainupea NARVA-
JÕESUU
Võsu Karepa Mahu Gulf of F inland
Eastern Estonia has strikingly diverse attractions. Sagadi ONTIKA Toila SILLAMÄE
LAHEMAA
Lahemaa National Park boasts some of the NATIONAL PARK Palmse Viru-Nigula COAST Kohtla- NARVA
Narva
country’s most beautiful landscapes, with count- Valgejõgi Loobu Viitna Haljala Järve Sirgala veehoidla
less villages dotted throughout the area. A stunning Sämi Kiviõli KOHTLA Jõhvi
coastline stretches to the medieval city of Narva and UNDERGROUND Metsa
the pristine beach at Narva-Jõesuu. To the south is Tallinn Valgejõgi RAKVERE MINING MUSEUM järve Konsu
Lake Peipsi. The picturesque landscape of the south- KUREMÄE
east provides a beautiful backdrop to attractive towns Soodla Tapa Udriku Pajusti Anguse Tarumaa Kuningaküla
such as Viljandi and Otepää, as well as to countless Aegviidu Kullenga Tudu
places of historic significance. Tartu makes an VÄIKE- Roela Rannapungena Jaama
ideal base from which to explore the region. Käravete Tamsalu MAARJA Peressaare Isaku
Kellavere Mägi Tudulinna Vasknarva
Vajangu Kiltsi 155 m (509 ft)
Jägala
Järva- Kauske
Ardu Madise Arukse
0 kilometres 20 Järva- Avinurme Lohusuu
Roosna- Jaani Rakke
0 miles 20 Alliku Pedja
Koeru
Anna LAKE
Müüsleri Sadala Mustvee PEIPSI
Vahastu Torma Raja
Sights at a Glance PAIDE ENDLA NATURE Kantküla Omedu
RESERVE
Towns, Cities and Resorts Käru Türi Koigi Tapiku Jögeva Kullavere Omedu Ranna
4 Sillamäe Tallinn Särevere Navesti Kallaste
5 Narva Imavere Kaarepere Alatskivi
6 Narva-Jõesuu
7 Kuremäe PÕLTSAMAA Kolkja
8 Rakvere Pärnu Umbusi Puurmani Tabivere Vara Koosa Kasepää
9 Väike-Maarja Vändra Kõo Varnja
q Paide Suurejõe Navesti Kolga- Põltsamaa
Jaani
w Põltsamaa Pärnu Kaansoo Laeva Kevastu
e Tartu pp118–21 Mudiste Amme Meerapalu
t Viljandi Leie Kärevere Ahja
y Otepää Oksa Vastemõisa Oiu Rekusaare TARTU
o Rõuge Raudna Tänassilma Reola
a Vastseliina VILJANDI Võnnu Rasina
LAKE
s Võru Tipu VÕRTSJÄRV Kambja Ahja Naha
d Põlva Rannu
Kõpu Ramsi Paistu Elva KIIDJÄRVE WATERMILL
Buildings and Sights of Interest Köpu Mustla Vastse-
Halliste
Sultsi Kivilõpe Maaritsa Kuuste TAEVASKOJA
2 Kohtla Underground Mining Uue- Rõngu SANDSTONE CLIFFS
Museum Kariste Saverna PÕLVA Mikitamäe
u Sangaste Manor Pärnu Abja-Paluoja Halliste Kärstna Pikasilla Viluste Värska
Kuutse Mägi
i Mõniste Open-Air Museum Veisjärv 217 m (712 ft) OTEPÄÄ Ahja Vana-
Kojola
f Kiidjärve Watermill Mõisaküla Karksi- Rutumägi Pühajärv
Nuia 145 m (475 ft)
Tõrva Kärgula Väimela Võhandu Vaartsi
National Parks and Reserves Keeni Lasva
Ala Piusa
1 Lahemaa National Park SANGASTE
pp110–113 Holdre Hummuli MANOR Sõmerpalu VÕRU Obinitsa
0 Endla Nature Reserve Laatre Antsla Meremäe
Mustijõgi
Areas of Natural Beauty Valga RÕUGE Haanja VASTSELIINA
3 Ontika Coast MÕNISTE OPEN-
r Lake Võrtsjärv AIR MUSEUM SUUR MUNAMÄGI
p Suur Munamägi Valmiera Koikküla
g Taevaskoja Sandstone Cliffs Krabi
Taheva
Tour
h Lake Peipsi p127 Medieval Ivangorod Castle, seen from Narva
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19
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EASTERN EST ONIA  109


Viinistu Käsmu Altja Vainupea Gulf of F inland NARVA- Getting Around
JÕESUU
Võsu Karepa Mahu SILLAMÄE Highway 1 (the E20 under
the European system)
LAHEMAA Sagadi ONTIKA Toila NARVA leads east out of Tallinn
COAST
NATIONAL PARK Palmse Viru-Nigula Kohtla- Narva and skirts Lahemaa
Järve
Valgejõgi Loobu Viitna Haljala Jõhvi Sirgala veehoidla National Park before following
Sämi Kiviõli KOHTLA the coast to Narva. Highway 2
UNDERGROUND (E263) connects Tartu and Võru and
Tallinn Valgejõgi RAKVERE MINING MUSEUM Metsa
järve Konsu Highway 3 (E264) links Tartu and
KUREMÄE Valga, skirting the north ern part of
Udriku Pajusti Anguse Tarumaa Lake Peipsi along the way. The town of
Soodla
Aegviidu Tapa Kuningaküla Rakvere also has a road leading to Tartu.
Kullenga Tudu A railway connects Tallinn with Rakvere,
VÄIKE- Roela Rannapungena Jaama Narva, Tartu and Viljandi. Tartu also has a
Käravete Tamsalu MAARJA Peressaare Isaku small airport. In the southeast an intricate
Kellavere Mägi Tudulinna Vasknarva network of signposted dirt roads connects
Vajangu Kiltsi 155 m (509 ft) most of the villages in the area.
Jägala
Järva- Kauske
Ardu Madise Arukse
Järva- Avinurme Lohusuu
Roosna- Jaani Rakke
Alliku Pedja
Koeru
Anna LAKE
Müüsleri Sadala Mustvee PEIPSI
Vahastu
ENDLA NATURE Kantküla Torma Raja
PAIDE RESERVE Omedu
Käru Türi Koigi Tapiku Jögeva Kullavere Omedu Ranna
Tallinn Navesti Kallaste
Särevere
Imavere Kaarepere
Alatskivi
PÕLTSAMAA Kolkja
Koosa Kasepää
Puurmani
Pärnu Kõo Umbusi Tabivere Vara
Vändra Varnja
Suurejõe Navesti Kolga-
Jaani
Laeva
Pärnu Kaansoo Kevastu
Põltsamaa
Mudiste Amme Meerapalu
Kärevere
Leie
Oksa Vastemõisa Oiu Rekusaare TARTU Ahja
Tänassilma Reola Võnnu
Raudna
VILJANDI Rasina Fishing village in Lahemaa National Park
Tipu LAKE Ahja Naha
VÕRTSJÄRV Kambja
Kõpu Ramsi Paistu Rannu Elva KIIDJÄRVE WATERMILL
Vastse-
Köpu
Mustla Kuuste
Halliste
Sultsi Kivilõpe Maaritsa TAEVASKOJA
Uue- Rõngu
Kariste SANDSTONE CLIFFS Mikitamäe
Saverna PÕLVA
Pärnu Halliste Kärstna Pikasilla
Abja-Paluoja Kuutse Mägi OTEPÄÄ Vana- Viluste Värska
Veisjärv 217 m (712 ft) Ahja Kojola
Karksi-
Mõisaküla Rutumägi Pühajärv
Nuia 145 m (475 ft)
Tõrva Võhandu Vaartsi
Keeni Kärgula Väimela
Ala Lasva Piusa
SANGASTE
Holdre MANOR Sõmerpalu VÕRU Obinitsa
Hummuli Antsla Meremäe Key
Laatre Mustijõgi Motorway
Valga RÕUGE Haanja VASTSELIINA Main road
MÕNISTE OPEN- Secondary road
AIR MUSEUM SUUR MUNAMÄGI
Valmiera Koikküla Minor road
Scenic route
Krabi
Taheva Railway
International border
Peak
For keys to symbols see back flap
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110  EST ONIA REGION B Y REGION

1 Lahemaa National Park
Gulf of
Finland Area of the
Extending across the north coast of Estonia, Lahemaa National map illustrated
Park, or Lahemaa Rahvuspark, is a nature lover’s paradise. It is
the largest park in Estonia and also the first area to be desig­
nated a national park in the erstwhile Soviet Union. The diverse Valgejõgi
terrain covers four peninsulas jutting out into the Gulf of Finland ESTONIA
and stretches inland over an area of 725 sq km (280 sq miles). Key
The park teems with wildlife and has several marked trails Lahemaa National Park
through its forests and bogs and along its meandering
coastline. Many impressive manor houses and picturesque
villages can be found throughout the area (see pp112–13).



Pärispea
Viinistu Gulf of
Finland

Suurpea
Pärispea Käsmu
Peninsula Käsmu Bay
Peninsula
Viinistu
Once a fishing village, Viinistu has developed Kasispea
into a local cultural centre. It is home to an Eru Bay
impressive art gallery.
Hara
Bay Loksa
Lake
Käsmu
Vihasoo
Lake
Lohja
Lobu
Ilumäe

Joaveski
Palmse
Valgejõgi
. Käsmu Peninsula
The rugged coastline of Käsmu Peninsula, strewn
with giant boulders left behind by retreating glaciers
after the last Ice Age, has an ethereal beauty.




Flora and Fauna 0 km 2
With forest covering more
than 70 per cent of Lahemaa, 0 miles 2
the area is rich in flora and
fauna. The landscape has
many raised bogs, including Key
the 7,000-year-old Laukasoo Minor road
Reserve. The thriving wildlife
includes a population of Trail
wolves, bear and lynx. Park boundary
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19


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EASTERN EST ONIA  111


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map D1. n National Park
Võsu Visitors’ Centre, Palmse, 329 5555.
A beautiful stretch Open mid-May–Sep: 9am–5pm
of beach, a tranquil daily; Oct–mid-May: 9am–5pm
atmos phere and Mon–Fri. 0 - =  available
stunning natural at Võsu (May–Sep).
surroundings make ∑ keskkonnaamet.ee/lahe
this his toric village
a very popular Transport
@ from Tallinn to Võsu, Altja,
holiday resort.
Käsmu, Viinistu.
The Oandu Forest Nature Trail
is a well-signposted 5-km
(3-mile) long route. Wildlife
can be seen foraging along the
largely moss-covered path.





Käsmu
Bay
Käsmu Lame
Peninsula
Pihlaspea
. Altja Village
Vergi With its timber houses with
Peninsula ornately thatched roofs, the
Altja fishing village of Altja provides
Lake an authentic glimpse of a
Käsmu Võsu bygone era, when its sur vival
depended on the sea.
Oandu
Koljaku
Sagadi
Manor
Ilumäe
Sagadi
Metasnurga
Palmse













Sagadi Manor
The grounds of Sagadi Manor,
Key one of the most attractive of
. Palmse Manor House the region’s manor houses, are
Minor road
The stately Baroque house has now been restored as a filled with sculp tures, while its
Trail museum, while its converted outhouses and extensive numerous out houses include
Park boundary grounds offer several other attractions. the Forestry Museum.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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112  EST ONIA REGION B Y REGION


Exploring Lahemaa National Park since the late 19th century. The
resort is 2 km (1 mile) long and
The sheer size of Lahemaa National Park makes getting packed with elegant wooden
around it by bike or car the best option. When driving to houses from end to end.
Lahemaa along the Tallinn-Narva Highway, turn off at the The most distinctive building
crossroads at Viitna and head north towards Palmse village, in the village is the old Fire
Tower, which now houses an art
where there is a National Park Visitors’ Centre. From Palmse, it gallery. Its beach, with Blue Flag
is a relatively short drive to all the main villages, sites and status, is also one of the most
areas of natural beauty. Käsmu and Võsu make convenient attrac tive along the north coast.
hiking and cycling bases, with plenty of good accommodation, With its soft white sand and
although most places are often booked up well in advance pine-fringed dunes, it offers
gentle shade during the hot
during summer.
summer days. It is also a
con venient base for further
explo rations of Oandu and Altja.
} Käsmu
16 km (10 miles N of Palmse.) * 130.
0- Käsmu Maritime Museum:
Tel 323 8136. Open May–Sep:
10am–7pm daily; Oct–Apr:
10am–5pm Mon–Fri. ∑ kasmu.ee
Approximately 6 km (4 miles)
long and 3 km (2 miles) wide,
Käsmu village is situated on the
smallest of the four penin sulas
in Lahemaa National Park. It is
often referred to as the prettiest
Regal interior of the ornately decorated Palmse Manor House village in the region due to its
proudly kept homesteads.
P Palmse Manor House landscaped. In summer, visitors Käsmu has a history as a
8 km (5 miles) N of Viitna. Tel 324 can take a boat tour of the shipbuilding cen tre of repute
0070. Open May–Sep: 10am–7pm serene Swan Lake and soak up in the 19th century, while the
daily, Oct–Apr: 10am–6pm daily. & the surrounding tranquility. largely ice-free bay made it a
8 call in advance. 7 0 - regular place of anchor in winter.
∑ palmse.ee } Võsu A maritime school was set up
The attractive village of Palmse 8 km (5 miles) N of Palmse. in the village in 1884 and the
is the ideal starting point for a * 480. @ from Tallinn. 0 - building now houses the
tour of the enchan ting Lahemaa ∑ keskkonnaamet.ee/lahe Käsmu Maritime Museum.
National Park. It also has a well- A charming and quiet little The museum’s emphasis is on
run visitors’ centre. The focus of coastal village, Võsu is a popular the 1920s and 30s through
the village is the splendid holiday resort. Its peaceful World War II and the Soviet era,
Palmse Manor House, an ambience and stun ning natural and it has an eclectic collection
elegant Baroque building that beauty have made it a favourite of artifacts honouring the
origi nally served as a Cistercian summer getaway for families village’s seafaring past.
convent. In 1677, it became the Käsmu is also called the
family home of the von Pahlens, Captain’s Village, because of the
a leading family of Baltic barons. 62 captains who resided here
Today, the manor house between World War I and World
serves as a museum, offering War II. It was decimated by the
an interesting overview of the Soviets in the 1940s, with many
estate’s history. The old distill ery families sent to Siberia and
has been converted into a hotel others fleeing across the sea.
with an excellent res taurant, Today, the village enjoys a
while a lovely café now reputation as one of the best
occupies the bathhouse. holiday resorts in the park.
The manor house runs a wine It also boasts a fascinating
tour, where visitors can enjoy a coastline strewn with giant
glass of sparkling wine or locally erratic boulders, a large
produced wine made from scattering of which lie in a
berries grown in the nearby stone field near the village. This
Brest Pavilion. The manor Tourists enjoying themselves at the is the highlight of the famous
grounds are beautifully pine-fringed beach in Võsu Käsmu Boulder Walk (see p114).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19


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EASTERN EST ONIA  113


} Altja and lush pine forest. Visitors are
15 km (9 miles) E of Võsu. Altja Tavern: likely to spot tracks left by
Tel 520 9156. Open May–Sep: 11am– foraging wild boar, elk and
9pm daily; Oct–Apr: 11am– 8pm brown bears.
Sun–Thu, 11am–9pm Fri–Sat.
0 Oandu: 10 km (6 miles) S of Võsu. Viinistu
 free National Park campsite. 9 km (6 miles) W of Käsmu. * 150.
∑ keskkonnaamet.ee/lahe 0 - Viinistu Art Museum: Tel 5373
Situated to the east of Lahemaa 6446. Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun.
National Park, Altja is a lovely & ∑ viinistu.ee
tiny fishing village that skirts the Lying on the eastern tip of the
rugged coastline of the park. Its Pärispea Peninsula, the village
main landmark is a large of Viinistu is an
wooden swing that intriguing little place.
stands in an open It profited from the
space at the eastern smuggling of
end of the village. vodka to Finland
Just beyond, during prohibition The beautiful 18th-century manor house
along the beach, in the 1920s, but at Sagadi Manor
are the aban doned during the Soviet
huts of fisher men. era it was incor- P Sagadi Manor
The village’s timber Water barrel, porated into the 8 km (5 miles) NE of Palmse. Tel 676
houses with Viinistu Art Museum nearby Loksa ind us- 7888. Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm
thatched roofs make trial complex. daily; Oct–Apr: by prior arrangement.
it seem like an open-air Today, it has been reinvented & 8 call in advance. 7 -
museum. There is a picturesque due to the efforts of Jaan ∑ sagadi.ee
wooden suspension bridge. Manitsky (b.1943), a wealthy Built in 1749, Sagadi Manor
Beyond Altja, in nearby local businessman who opened (Sagadi mõis) consists of several
Oandu, there are two fantastic a hotel and the Viinistu Art buildings sym metrically laid out
nature trails where visitors can Museum by the harbour. The around a sprawling courtyard in
get a taste of Lahemaa National museum has an impressive front, with a manicured park
Park’s varied forest landscape. collection of 20th-century and pond to the rear. The attrac-
The 2-km (1-mile) long Oandu Estonian art and uses two tive 18th-century Baroque
Beaver Trail passes by several converted water-towers for manor house is now home to
beaver dams and countless temporary exhibitions. a museum which offers an
skilfully gnawed tree stumps. The harbour has been authentic glimpse of the lives of
The 5-km (3-mile) long circular restored and it is possible to the Baltic-German aristo cratic
Oandu Forest Nature Trail travel northeast from Viinistu family who lived here in the
passes through sweet-smelling to the barren Mohni Island. mid-18th century. The manor
house later served as a primary
school and part of a collective
farm until it finally opened as a
museum in 1987.
The Baroque gatehouse, which
used to be the main entrance to
the manor house, is particularly
grand. There are also some truly
fascinating sculptures scattered
around the grounds.
Today, the outhouses on
one side of the courtyard are
occupied by the Forestry
Museum (Metsamuuseum),
which provides a detailed
overview of the diverse flora
and fauna of Estonia’s forests.
Housed in the building nearby
is a hotel called Sagadi Manor
(see p298). A former bailiff’s
residence now serves as the
Sagadi hostel. The historic estate
is also home to a Nature School
where eco logical research is
Wooden swing in the quaint fishing village of Altja carried out.




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114  EST ONIA REGION B Y REGION


Käsmu Boulder Walk

The smallest of the four peninsulas in Lahemaa, Käsmu
boasts the most impressive chain of boulders. These form
a formidable outcrop in the shallow waters, creating a
dramatic coastline. Old Jüri, the tallest boulder at 5.5 m
(18 ft), lies just off the northwest tip. Starting from Käsmu
village, a path leads along the coast to the northwest tip
of the peninsula before turning back towards the village
through dense forest. There are clearly marked hiking Cosy wooden cottage snuggled in the heart
trails and a cycling route. of Käsmu village


Saartneem
Island
Gulf of Finland
Eru Bay
Käsmu
Bay
2 Saartneem
A path leads from
3 Scenic Views Käsmu village to the
One of the most northwest tip of the
stunning routes in the peninsula, where a
park, this path follows chain of erratic boulders
the whole length of stretches out to the
the coast. Käsmu island of Saartneem.
Peninsula

4 Cycle Route
The scenic bicycle route
is about 14 km (9 miles) Lake Võsu
long and is marked with Käsmu
blue ribbons.


1 Käsmu Village
Key Käsmu village is one of
the most popular resorts
Walk route in Lahemaa. With plenty
Bicycle route of B&B accom modation,
it is an ideal base for
Other road
exploring the Käsmu
Peninsula as a whole,
as well as the other
regions of Lahemaa.
Tips for Walkers
Starting point: Käsmu village.
Length: 11 km (7 miles).
Walking trails: An 11-km (7-mile)
long path marked with red
ribbons leads north of Käsmu 5 Erratic Boulders
village from Old Jüri. A shorter The Stone Plantation on the
walk is the path west of Käsmu trail west of Käsmu village has
village, which leads through the a bizarre expanse of boulders. 0 km 1
Stone Plantation. These attract a large number
of visitors to the area. 0 miles 1
For keys to symbols see back flap


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EASTERN EST ONIA  115

2 Kohtla water has carved its way
Underground through a bed of 470 to
Mining Museum 570 million-year-old rocks
Kohtla kaevanduspark-muuseum to create an amazing sight.
Road Map E1. Tel 332 4017. @ from Environs
Kohtla-Järve. Open May–Sep: 11am– The beautiful Oru Park, Toila
7pm Tue–Sat, 11am–5pm Sun & Mon; is located 14 km (9 miles) east
Oct–Apr: 10am–6pm Tue–Sat. & of Ontika Coast and is worth
8 book in advance. 0 summer visiting. The park is spread
only. ∑ kaevanduspark.ee out over an area of 1 sq km
(0.4 sq m) along the coast.
Undoubtedly one of the most
fascinating museums in Estonia, Exhibit at the intriguing Kohtla
Kohtla Underground Mining Underground Mining Museum 4 Sillamäe
Museum is located in the Road Map E1. * 17,000. @ from
sprawling industrial area of before World War II, it saw speedy Tallinn, Narva. ∑ sillamae.ee
Kohtla-Nõmme. Set in a massive develop ment during the Soviet
oil-shale mining complex, the era with the expansion of the Situated midway between
museum operates guided tours oil-shale mines in the area. Kohtla-Järve and Narva,
in which the history, technology Sillamäe makes for a fascinating
and purpose of mining are excursion. This Soviet-era town
explained before visitors are 3 Ontika Coast was the site of a uranium mine
taken to explore the dark, damp Road Map E1. @ from Tallinn to for the Soviet nuclear
labyrinth of the mines. Jõhvi, then bus or taxi to Toila, Ontika. programme. However, it was
Visitors can see the infernal ∑ ida-virumaa.ee so secret that it was not even
mining machines at work and marked on official maps.
can even attempt to drill for oil- The coastal limestone cliff of The town is a living example
shale or ride an underground Ontika forms one of the most of the more elegant side of
bike. There is also the added striking areas of natural beauty late-Stalinist residential
option of sampling a miner’s in Estonia. Sprawling over architecture. Many of the
lunch under ground. almost 20 km (12 miles) ornately decorated apartment
The outdoor tour continues between Saka and Toila, the blocks set along tree-lined
on to the very impressive Ontika cliff is the highest point boulevards and manicured
mountains of mined stone and of the North Estonian limestone parks are very attractive. The
it is possible to see one of the escarpment. At Ontika, the cliff mine was closed in 1991 and
biggest diggers in the world. reaches a height of 57 m (184 ft) a number of other industries
Wall and mountain climbing are and offers a view across the Gulf have since moved in. Sillamäe
some of the adventure sports of Finland. Valaste, which lies is slowly but surely reinvent ing
offered here. Located nearby is 5 km (3 miles) east, has Estonia’s itself as an upcoming coastal
the vast industrial town of highest waterfall. The 26-m and historical tourist
Kohtla-Järve. A small town (85-ft) stream of cascading destination of interest.






















The limestone cliffs set against the azure Baltic Sea, Ontika Coast
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19


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116  EST ONIA REGION B Y REGION


5 Narva
Road Map E1. * 65,000. £ from
Tallinn. @ from Tallinn, Tartu.
n Peetri 3, 359 9137. _ Narva Days
(early Jun), Narva History Festival
(Aug). ∑ narva.ee
After centuries of being bitterly
fought over, Narva now marks
the EU border with Russia.
Although most of the city’s
much-admired medieval centre
was levelled by the Soviet air
force towards the end of World
War II, there is still plenty to see
and do.
On the west coast of the
Narva river stands the imp-
ressive Narva Castle, whose
main tower, Tall Hermann,
houses the predominantly
war-themed Narva Museum.
A splendid riverside park
surrounds the castle.
With a population that is 96
per cent Russian-speaking, Narva
has a different feel from Tallinn.
The city is also close to a number
of attrac tions in the area.
E Narva Museum Exterior of Dormition Cathedral at Pühtitsa Convent in Kuremäe
Tel 359 9230. Open 10am–6pm daily.
& ∑ narvamuuseum.ee Present-day Narva-Jõesuu it a cheerful air. The convent
enjoys a white sandy beach, a also has a hostel for guests
lively nightlife and a boom ing and pilgrims.
water-sports industry.
R Pühtitsa Convent
Tel 337 0715. Open 7am–7pm daily.
7 Kuremäe 8 5 = ∑ orthodox.ee
Road Map E1. * 370. @ from
Tallinn, Narva.
8 Rakvere
The small village of Kuremäe Road Map D1. * 17,000. @ from
is celebrated for its Russian Tallinn, Narva. n Laada 14, 324 2734.
Orthodox Pühtitsa Convent, ∑ rakvere.kovtp.ee
one of the most notable sights
in Estonia. The convent was The town of Rakvere, with
Narva Castle, home to the war-themed founded in 1891 and today restored historic buildings and
Narva Museum some 150 nuns live there. a striking main square, has been
There are six churches in the transformed into an attractive
6 Narva-Jõesuu complex, which tourist destination.
is dominated Its most famous
Road Map E1. * 2,600. @ from
Narva. 0 - ∑ narva-joesuu.ee by the striking landmark, the 13th-
Dormition century Rakvere Castle
The attractive summer resort of Cathedral, built in on Linnamägi Hill, is
Narva-Jõesuu is famed for its 1910. The con vent is now a medieval theme
pristine beach. Lined with pine surrounded by a thick park. The exhibits cover
trees and old wooden houses, granite wall and has a the castle’s history from
the beach stretches for 7 km majestic entrance its early existence until
(4 miles) from Narva-Jõesuu to gate with seven it fell to ruins. A
Meriküla. It was a fashionable large bells. The grand and slightly
spa resort in the 19th century bright façade and Picasso-esque
and was popular with pristine appearance Statue of a bull on Vallimägi statue of a bull,
St Petersburg’s high society. of the place gives Hill, Rakvere created by local
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19


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EASTERN EST ONIA  117


artist Tauno Kangro (b.1966), to explore than the larger the Järvamaa Museum offers
stands on top of Vallimägi Hill national parks. One of the a much broa der look at the
and is a new symbol for the six hiking trails, the stunning nature and history of the area.
town. Rakvere’s inhabitants are Männi kjärve Trail, stretches for The Town Hall Square is the
proud of the fact that the 1 km (half a mile) over a long focal point of the well-kept
renowned composer Arvo Pärt plank platform. To the east of town centre and offers a small
(see p27) went to school and the reserve, Emumägi Hill is variety of decent restaurants
began his music studies here. the area’s highest point. Its and cafés.
observation tower offers a
+ Rakvere Castle superb view of the countryside. E Järvamaa Museum
Vallimägi. Tel 322 5500. Open May– Lembitu 5. Tel 385 1867.
Sep: 11am–7pm daily; Oct–Apr: Open Apr–Oct: 11am–6pm Tue–Sat;
10am–4pm Wed–Sun. & @ svm.ee Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. &
∑ jarvamaamuuseum.ee
9 Väike-Maarja
w Põltsamaa
Road Map D1. * 5,000.
@ from Rakvere. n Pikk 3, 326 1625. Road Map D2. * 5,000. @ from
∑ v-maarja.ee Tallinn, Tartu. n Lossi 1, 775 1390.
∑ poltsamaa.ee
A typical parochial Estonian
town, Väike-Maarja is steeped The idyllic town of Põltsamaa is
in history and has a number set amid the ruins of Põlts amaa
of quirky sights of interest. Castle. Once the centre of power
Housing the local tourism for Duke Magnus, the king of
information centre, the Väike- The medieval octagonal tower Livonia in the 16th century, the
Maarja Museum offers an amid castle ruins, Paide castle stronghold is an amazingly
eclectic and detailed overview eclectic jigsaw of archtectural
of the town’s history, includ ing q Paide styles. The exquisite Rococo
exhibits showing how the Road Map D1. * 9,000. @ from palace was built in the 18th
Forest Brothers (see p122) used Tallinn. n Keskväljak 8, 385 0400. century on the site of an old
to live. It is also possible to ∑ paide.ee convent, while the elegant
have a “Forest Brothers’ picnic” Lutheran St Nicholas’s Church
in a reconstructed bunker. Located in the centre of Estonia, dates from 1633 and was re-
Other interesting sights Paide makes the ideal base from constructed in 1952. Located in
include a Soviet missile base, which to explore the heartland an old storehouse in the castle
the Vao Stronghold Tower of the country. To emphasize its yard, the Põltsamaa Museum
Museum and the 14th-century central loca tion, the town has boasts some fine exhibits.
town church. adopted a heart shape as its
official logo. Paide’s biggest R St Nicholas’s Church
R Väike-Maarja Museum tourist draw is the beautifully Lossi 3. Tel 776 9915. Open Jun–Aug:
Pikk 3. Tel 326 1625. Open May–Sep: restored 13th-century 10am–3pm daily. 5 11am Sun. &
10am–5pm Tue–Sat; Oct–Apr: octagonal castle tower and E Põltsamaa Museum
10am–5pm Mon–Fri. surrounding ruins. The tower Loss tänav 1. Tel 775 1390.
houses a museum focusing on Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm daily;
0 Endla Nature the town’s early history, while Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm Mon–Sat. &
Reserve
Endla Looduskaitseala
Road Map D1. @ from Tartu.
n Reserve Headquarters, Tooma,
70 km (43 miles) NW of Tartu, 676
7999. 8 call in advance.
∑ keskkonnaamet.ee
A scenic maze of peat bogs,
rivers, swamp forests and lakes,
the Endla Nature Reserve is
considered to be one of the
most important freshwater
systems in the country.
Although the reserve straddles
three counties, its relatively
small size makes it much easier Well-maintained church inside the castle grounds at Põltsamaa




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e Tartu P Tartu University Main
Building
Best known for being home to the venerable Tartu University, Ülikooli 18. Tel 737 5384. Open 11am–
the city is frequently referred to as the intellectual capital of 5pm Mon–Fri. & 8 7 ∑ ut.ee
Estonia. The uni versity was founded in 1632 by King Gustav Finished in 1809, Tartu University
Adolphus of Sweden (1594–1632) and has played a major role Main Building (Tartu ülikooli
peahoone) is one of Estonia’s
in Estonian history ever since. With the second-largest finest Neo-Classical buildings. It
population in the country, Tartu has a thriving cultural scene contains the impressive Art
and exciting nightlife, and makes a convenient base from Museum, from where the
which to explore the southeast of the country. imposing Assembly Hall and the
far more amusing Lock-Up can
be visited. Unruly students were
confined to the Lock-Up as
punishment, and their doodles
and scribbles, which adorn its
walls, make for amusing reading.
R St John’s Church
Jaani 5. Tel 744 2229. Open May–
Sep: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, 10am–
1pm Sun. & 5 11am Sun.
∑ jaanikirik.ee
Dating from 1330, St John’s
Church (Jaani kirik) was severely
damaged by bomb ing during
World War II. However, even after
Town Hall Square, with the Kissing Students Fountain in the centre extensive renovations and the
addition of a new spire in 1999,
P Town Hall Square pink Town Hall overlooking it the church remains one of the
Tartu’s historic centre is set from the top. The Great Fire of best examples of brick Gothic
around Town Hall Square 1775 burned down most of the architecture in Northern Europe.
(Raekoja plats), with the city and today the square’s Neo- Hundreds of elaborate
Emajõgi river in the front and Classical look is in sync with the terracotta figures, dating from
Toome-mägi (see pp120–21) just rest of the city centre. The the Middle Ages, adorn the
behind it. The gently slop ing famous Kissing Students church’s interior. It is believed
cobble-stoned square is dis- Fountain, in front of the Town that there were originally more
tinctly Neo-Classical, with the Hall, was erected in 1998. than 1,000 of them.

Tartu
1 Town Hall Square
2 Tartu University MAGASINI M U N G A
Main Building St John’s
Church
3 St John’s Church L U T S U JAANI VA B A
4 Tartu Art Museum M U N G A
5 Father and Son J A K O B I RÜÜTLI RÜÜTLI KOMPA NII
Statue L A I G I LD I GILD I D U S E P U I E S T E E Emajõgi
MA GI ST RI
Tartu University KÜÜTRI
Main Building
Tartu Art
TOOMEMÄGI Museum
Town
Hall Square R A E K O J A P L AT S
Riverboat Pier
Cathedral LO S S I 100 m (110 yards)
Ruins K Ü Ü N I POE Bus Station
Angel’s 320 m (350 yards)
Bridge
LO S S I
0 metres 150 Father and
Railway Station Son Statue
0 yards 150 1.5 km (1 mile) Devil’s
Bridge
Ü L I K O O L I Ü L I K O O L I
University
Estonian Observatory
National Museum
Tartu Airport
Key KGB Cells 3.5 km (2 miles)
Museum
Street-by-Street area VA L L I K R A AV I
see pp120–21
For keys to symbols see back flap
118-119_Tar.indd 118 15/02/17 10:14 am

EASTERN EST ONIA  119


E KGB Cells Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Riia 15b. Tel 746 1717.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8 Practical Information
∑ linnamuuseum.tartu.ee Road Map E2. * 100,000.
In the basement of the regional n Raekoja plats 9, 744 2111. _
headquarters of the KGB/NKVD Tartu City Day (29 Jun), Student
(People’s Commissariat for Days (around 1 May). ∑ tartu.ee
Internal Affairs), the KGB Cells Transport
Museum (KGB kongid) offers k £ A3, Vaksali 6, 1.5 km (1 mile)
grim testimony to the nightmare W of centre. @ C2, Soola 2, E of
of the Soviet occupation. Some the centre. 4 Narva mnt 2.
of the former cells have been
turned into exhibition spaces,
while others have been restored E Estonian National
to their original condition to give Museum
a picture of what so many Kuperjanovi 9. Tel 735 0445.
Estonians suffered under the Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8
Leaning building in which the Tartu Art Soviet regime. Much attention is call in advance. 7 - = ∑ erm.ee
Museum is housed paid to the mass deportations Estonia’s most important
that took place between 1940 ethnological centre, the Estonian
E Tartu Art Museum and 1949, including the official National Museum (Eesti rahva
Raekoja plats 18. Tel 744 1920. plans for carrying them out. muuseum) boasts over one
Open 11am–6pm Wed–Sun. & 8 There are gut-wrenching artifacts million artifacts col lected since
call in advance. - ∑ tartmus.ee from the Gulags, the notorious 1909. The museum focuses on
Housing one of the finest correction camps where Estonia and other Finno-Ugric
collections in the country, thou sands of Estonians died. cultures, and its collection
Tartu Art Museum (Tartu covers every imaginable aspect
kunstimuuseum) features the of life. From chairs made of
works of prominent Estonian gnarled birch wood to warped
artists such as Elmar Kits (1913– wooden beer tankards, the
72), Ülo Sooster (1924–70) and displayed objects eloquently
Marko Mäetamm (b.1965). A attest to a way of life that seems
thorough and cap tivating quaintly anachronistic today.
overview of Estonian art, which In addition, there are vast
spans the 19th cent ury through photographic and documental
to the present, is also provided. archives and a fascinating
The museum’s other impressive costume collection, which
aspect is the building that houses includes a punk jacket (circa
it. Leaning conspicuously to one 1982–85). The museum is
side, it belonged to the famous dedicated to the great Estonian
Russian Field Marshal Barclay de folklorist and linguist Jakob
Tolly (see p122), who suc cessfully Hurt (1839–1907). The
led the Russian army against museum occasionally holds
Napoleon in 1812. temporary exhibitions that
A desk in the KGB Museum, with Stalin’s encompass themes from
Father and Son Statue portrait on the wall furniture to photography.
Küüni (close to Poe St).
Originally planned for Tallinn,
this delightful little statue by Karl Ernst von Baer (1792–1876)
Ülo Õun (1940–88) was con- A Baltic-German biologist, Karl Ernst von Baer
ceived in 1977. It was cast in was one of the founders of embryo logy. His
bronze in 1987, purchased by pioneering work in this area was recognized
the Tartu Town Government in by Charles Darwin, although Baer himself
2001 and, finally, unveiled on was extremely critical of the theory of
Children’s Day (1 June) in 2004. evolution. Baer studied at Tartu University
The father figure is modelled and later taught at Königsberg and the
St Petersburg Academy of Sciences, before
after the sculptor, and the child living out his last years in Tartu. A statue of
is modelled after his son Baer, looking pensive, takes pride of place
Kristjan, when he was around on a plinth on Toomemägi. A rather
18 months old. Interestingly, endearing tradition takes place every year,
both father and son are on the eve of St Philip’s Day (1 May),
propor tionately equal in this when Tartu University students wash Statue of Karl Ernst von Baer
highly unusual and extremely Baer’s bronze hair. on Toomemägi
touching monument.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19


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120  EST ONIA REGION B Y REGION

Street-by-Street: Toomemägi

With its labyrinthine layout of narrow, winding streets and
elegant historic buildings, Toomemägi (Cathedral Hill) is
full of delightful surprises. In medieval times a fortress
and cathedral stood on the hill but both were abandoned
during the Livonian Wars (1558–83). Today, Toomemägi is
home to a variety of prominent public buildings. Many of
them belong to Tartu University, which was re-established
here in 1802. There are several impressive monuments to
some of the university’s most esteemed graduates in the
landscaped parks dotted around the hillside. The hill also Statue of two Wildes outside Vilde’s Health
commands some wonderful rooftop views of the city of Café (see p319)
Tartu spread out below.




Devil’s Bridge
The bridge was built
in 1913 to honour
three centuries of
rule by the Russian
Romanov dynasty. The
bridge was dedicated
to Tsar Alexander I.

Key
Suggested route



0 metres 100
0 yards 100












Ü L I K O O L I




. University Observatory
When it was built in 1820, the
observatory had the most . Angel Bridge
powerful achromatic tele- It is a local tradition to
scope in the world. It was hold one’s breath and make
separated from the univer sity a wish while crossing this
in 1946 and now serves as a 19th-century yellow-and-
science centre. black bridge.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19


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EASTERN EST ONIA  121

Cathedral Ruins
The massive ruins bear testimony to the
original grandeur of the cathedral. Damaged
during the Livonian Wars, it was rebuilt as a
library after the reopen ing of the university in
1802. Visitors can climb the renovated towers.



The sacrificial
stone was the site
of worship for
pagan Estonians.









. Statue of Karl Ernst von Baer
This impressive monument
befits Tartu University’s most
emi nent graduate and founder
of modern embryology.














L O S S I
Tartu University
When the first students registered here in
1632, it was only the second university in
the province of Swedish Livonia. Since its
establishment, the university has played a
crucial role in Estonia’s history.



Ü L I K O O L I






Town Hall
Dating back to 1786, the current Town
Hall is the third of its kind to occupy this
position at the heart of Tartu. Its elegant
early Classicist architecture was considered
very fashionable in the 18th century.




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122  EST ONIA REGION B Y REGION

r Lake Võrtsjärv
Road Map D2. @ from Viljandi,
Otepää. n Visitor Centre, Rannu,
527 5630. Open May–Sep: 10am–
6pm daily; Oct: 11am–5pm daily;
Nov–Apr: by arrangement. 8
∑ vortsjarv.ee
Straddling the counties of
Viljandi, Tartu and Valga, Lake
Võrtsjärv is the second-largest
lake in Estonia after Lake Peipsi
(see p127). The northern part of
the lake has some beautiful
sandy beaches, while the
southern part is swampier. Magnificent view of Otepää, set amid lush landscape
The Visitor Centre is a great
place to gather information surrounding landscape. A y Otepää
before your visit, and you can crucial staging post on the Road: Map E2. * 2,300. @ from
also rent a canoe or boat from Hanseatic trade route (see p36), Tartu, Võru, Tallinn. n Tartu mnt 1,
here. There are several attractions Viljandi emerged as one of 766 1200. _ Tartu Marathon (Feb).
scattered around the lake. Estonia’s leading strongholds in ∑ otepaa.ee
The mausoleum of Barclay de the 16th century. By the end
Tolly (1757–1818), the Russian of the 19th century, the local Situated amid the beautiful
general credited with helping area had become one of the rolling hills of southeast
to defeat Napoleon, is in wealthiest in Estonia. Estonia, Otepää is equally
Jõgeveste, south of the lake. Viljandi is notable for its well- popular as a summer and
The bagpipe farm in Riidaja, at preserved historic buildings, winter holiday retreat. The
the southwest corner of the with an abundance of pretty town also holds a special
lake, is one of the area’s more timber cottages and early place in Estonian history. In
unusual sights. A popular 20th-century brick houses. 1884 the national flag was
summer activity is to take a tour In the small plaza, at the consecrated in the parish
of the lake aboard a kalepur- junction of Lossi and Tartu, is a church, which now houses
jekas, a traditional sailboat. statue that pays homage to Carl the Flag Museum. The totemic
Robert Jakobson (1841–82). This Energy Column at Mäe Street
zealous 19th-century Estonian is an intriguing reminder of
nationalist helped get the how strongly pagan beliefs
National Awakening underway prevail in Estonia.
by foun ding the Estonian- Lake Pühajärv, 3 km
language newspaper Sakala in (2 miles) south of Otepää, has
Viljandi in 1878. The statue is the some splendid beaches and
main focal point for the town. dining spots from which to
Viljandi is also a major centre enjoy the magnificent scenery.
for folk art and music, with
a large music academy and a E Flag Museum
popular yearly festival. Tel 765 5075. Open 11am-4pm Tue-Sat.
The Forest Brothers
After the Soviet Union reoccupied Estonia
A section of the medieval castle on Castle in 1944, thousands of men fled to the
Hill, Viljandi woods to take up arms. They became
known as the Forest Brothers and
t Viljandi fought a guerrilla-style campaign
Road Map D2. * 20,000. £ from against the Soviet system, most
Tallinn. @ from Tartu. n Vabaduse 6, prominently in Viljandi and Tartu,
433 0442. _ Viljandi Folk Festival (late with strong support from locals.
Jul). ∑ viljandi.ee However, the NKVD units ruthlessly
targeted the partisans’ families and
The pleasant town of Viljandi is by 1949 their support network had
centred on the medieval castle largely been broken. By 1953, only a
ruins sitting atop Castle Hill, few of the Forest Brothers were left. An underground bunker used
which afford spectacular views The last active member died in 1980. by Forest Brothers
of the nearby lake and
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19


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EASTERN EST ONIA  123


Skiing and Snowboarding

Skiing is a popular winter pastime in Estonia. When Estonia won three gold medals for
skiing events at the 2006 Winter Olympics, the medallists were hailed as national heroes
and “ski fever” gripped the country. Although Estonia has a flat terrain, there are
numerous ski hills, such as the 318-m (1,043-ft) high Suur Munamägi, that offer snow-
boarding and downhill skiing. There are many ski resorts around Otepää. However, since
Estonia is blanketed in snow throughout winter, the ski resorts are crowded until spring.
The annual Tartu Ski Marathon (see p53) is held at Kuutsemäe Ski Resort and has seen as
many as 10,000 participants. Snowboarding is also fast gaining popularity in the region
and Baltic snowboarders compete with the best in Europe in “trick park” acrobatics.

The Tartu Ski Marathon
is one of the highlights
of the winter sports
calendar in Estonia.
This 63-km (39-mile)
WorldLoppet series event
attracts competitors from
all over the world.
The festive proceedings
also provide plenty of
other skiing activities
for non-professionals
as well as children.
Winter time in Otepää draws hordes of ski-
lovers, as this idyllic “Winter Capital” has
several resorts, such as the one on Väike
Munamägi (Small Egg Hill), 2 km (1 mile)
from Otepää. Snowboarding, ice skating and
snowtubing are popular in this attractive
southern town.







Kristina Šmigun-Vähi (b.1977)
A cross-country skier, Tartu-born Kristina Šmigun has Kuutsemäe Ski Resort is a seven-slope
achieved remarkable success in her field, which has skiing facility about 14 km (9 miles)
made her a national hero among sports enthusiasts in outside Otepää. Its cross-country skiing
Estonia. Her parents, Anatoli Šmigun and Rutt Rehemaa, tracks are well marked out.
were also successful skiers. Kristina has won six medals at
the FIS Nordic World
Championships, including a
gold medal in 2003. Her Andrus Veerpalu
greatest success to date, (b. 1971), winner of
however, was to become two Olympic gold
the first Estonian woman to medals and one silver
win two gold medals at medal, is Estonia’s most
the 2006 Turin Winter successful Olympic
Olympic Games. She won athlete. The cross-
the 2 x 7.5 km (4.5 miles) country skier has
double pursuit and the Kristina Šmigun at the Turin also won gold and
10 km (6 miles) classical. Winter Olympic Games silver in the World
Championships.





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farm buildings, which are
sur rounded by the tranquil
and beautiful forests of the
Võru countryside. The
museum offers plenty of
activities for visitors and special
events are regularly held
throughout the summer, which
focus on the essential aspects
of traditional rural life such as
milking cows, working with
wood and flax and baking
bread. Apart from trying their
The English Gothic Revival exterior of Sangaste Manor hands at authentic farm work,
visitors can also spin yarn, roll
u Sangaste Manor ground floor used to hold grand linen and make rope. One of
Sangaste loss balls and still retains an air of the most inter esting activities
grandeur, while the spacious is learning how Estonian
Road Map D2. Tel 767 9300. @ from dining room, which is criss- farmers used local plants
Tartu, Otepää. Open 10am–4pm daily.
& 8 call in advance. 7 0 - crossed with Tudor-style rafters, and trees to treat ailments.
∑ sangasteloss.com is particularly impressive.
Sangaste is surrounded by a
One of the most attractive 0.8-sq-km (0.3-sq-mile) forest
buildings of its kind in Estonia, park, making it a favourite place
Sangaste Manor was built in for wedding receptions.
the English Gothic Revival style
between 1879 and 1883. It i Mõniste Open-Air
was commis sioned by Count
Friedrich von Berg to prove to Museum
an English aristocrat, whose Mõniste muuseum
daughter he was wooing, that Road Map E2. Kuutsi, Mõniste village.
he was not the “savage from Tel 789 0622. @ from Tartu.
Russia” that the preju diced Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm daily,
nobleman deemed him to be. Oct–Apr: 10am–2pm Mon–Fri. & 8
Sangaste’s striking redbrick ∑ monistemuuseum.ee
façade, crenellated gables and
elegant towers lend it the Established in 1948, Mõniste
appearance of a whim sical Open-Air Museum is the oldest
castle rather than a parochial museum of its kind in the St Mary’s Church, set in lush rolling
manor house. The arched country. It is located in fields, Rõuge
vestibule Dome Hall on the 19th- and early 20th-century
o Rõuge
The Setu People Road Map E2. * 440. @ from
Võru. n Haanja mnt, 785 9312.
Living in the southeast of Estonia, Open May– Sep: 10am–6pm daily.
the Setu people form a distinct ∑ rouge.kovtp.ee
ethnographic group. Unlike the
majority of Estonians, the Setu are The small village of Rõuge
Orthodox, having lived in a region perfectly embodies the languid
that was Christianized by the Russian charm of southeast Estonia
Orthodox Church. They also have and is considered by many
their own unique lang uage, known Estonians to be the most
as Võru-Setu, which differs beautiful village in the country.
considerably from standard Estonian. Situated on the shores of Lake
Traditional Setu folk music is among Rõuge Suurjärv, the deepest in
the most beautiful in Estonia,
although its plaintive polyphonic the country at 38 m (125 ft),
form is strikingly Slavic-sounding. and with the magnificent Valley
The Setu people are also famous for of the Nightingales looming
A Setu woman wearing a traditional their tradi tional costumes and behind it, the village is an
headdress and full-skirted dress handicrafts. The best starting point exceptionally tranquil place.
to explore Setu culture is Obinitsa. There are a series of nature trails
Located at the centre of Setumaa, or “the Land of the Setu”, the through the valley which start
little village celebrates several Setu festivals. behind St Mary’s Church. The
church dates back to 1730 and
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19


124-125.indd 124 15/02/17 10:14 am

EASTERN EST ONIA  125


was the site of an Estonian F R Kreutzwald (1803–82)
stronghold until the 12th
century. Adjacent to the church One of Estonia’s best-loved writers, Friedrich
is an old wooden school dating Reinhold Kreutzwald is revered as one of
from 1888 which has some the most pivotal figures in the National
beautiful wooden carvings and Awakening of the 19th century. The
sculptures on its exterior. enormous body of literature created by
Opposite the church is a monu- him in the Estonian language still instils a
strong sense of identity and confidence
ment honouring the Estonians among patriotic Estonians. Despite being
who lost their lives in the war of impoverished, he studied medicine at Tartu
indepen dence (1918–20). University, where he developed a passion-
ate interest in national folklore. He wrote Kreutzwald Memorial
many epics based on Estonian folklore, the Monument in Võru
p Suur Munamägi most celebrated of which is Kalevipoeg
(Son of Kalev). Published between 1857 and 1859, it was part
Road Map E2. Tel 786 7514. @ from fiction, part influenced by existing folk stories.
Võru. Open Apr–Aug: 10am–8pm
daily; Sep–Oct: 10am–5pm daily;
Nov–Mar: noon–3pm Sat & Sun. & a Vastseliina
- ∑ suurmunamagi.ee
Road Map E2. @ from Võru. * 620.
Situated just south of the ∑ vastseliina.ee
village of Haanja, Suur
Munamägi (Great Egg Hill) The small town of Vastseliina is
is the highest point in the visited mainly for the 14th-
Baltic States. At a mere 318 m century castle located 4 km
(1,043 ft) above sea level, it (2 miles) east of it. The castle
gives an idea of how flat the was originally a border strong-
Baltic region is. However, the hold built by the Germans as a
surrounding landscape of defence against the Russians. It
farmsteads, forests and hills became the site of a miracle in
is breathtaking enough to 1353, when a cross was seen
merit a trip to the top of the suspended in the middle of the Well-preserved wooden house on Jüri
hill. On clear days, it is possible castle’s chapel altar. The incident Street in Võru
to see all the way to Russia was reported by the Bishop of
and Latvia. Rīga to Pope Innocent VI and s Võru
At the peak, there is an the castle sub sequently became Road Map E2. * 14,000. @
elegant observation tower a place of pilgrimage. In 1702, n Jüri 12, 782 1881. _ Võru Folklore
which was built in 1939 and the castle was completely Festival (mid-Jul). ∑ voru.ee
renovated to include the glass- destroyed during the Northern
fronted Suur Munamägi Tower War (1700–21), but the ruins are Situated in the centre of the
Café (see p319) and a lift. a vivid reminder of this once southeast corner of Estonia,
Delightfully quirky wooden fiercely contested area. Võru is a good base for explor-
carvings, which peer down from In Vana-Vastseliina, at the foot ing the surrounding region.
the trees, can be seen while of the castle hill, Piiri Tavern – The town is best known for its
walk ing up the steep path to first mentioned in 1695 – still impressive 18th-century
the top of the forested hill. serves food. wooden architecture.
Võru’s main sight is the
Kreutzwald Memorial Museum,
the former house of writer
F R Kreutzwald, who had a
medi cal practice in the town.
The sandy shores of Lake
Tamula almost reach the town
centre and are perfect for walks.
Environs
Obinitsa, 30 km (19 miles) east
of Võru, is the largest village of
the Setu community.
E Kreutzwald Memorial
Museum
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Wed–Sun;
View from the observation tower, Suur Munamägi Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &




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126  EST ONIA REGION B Y REGION



















Sweeping view of Lake Põlva with the spire of St Mary’s Church in the background
d Põlva includes sandcliffs. The water- most beautiful. Close to the
mill is the largest red brick Small Taevaskoja is the Maiden’s
Road Map E2. * 6,500. @ from
Tartu. n Kooli 1, 799 5001. structure of its kind in the Baltic Cave, which was carved by the
_ Town Days (first weekend in June). region. There are many hiking spring water flowing out of the
∑ polva.ee trails that start at Kiidjärve Devonian sandstone and is also
village. Horse-riding, cycling a source of num erous legends
The town is set around the and canoeing are also popular and myths. Nearby is the Big
artificial Lake Põlva, whose ways to see the area. The Taevaskoja, a striking sandstone
sandy shores are crowded with famous Akste Anthills, some wall, widely regarded as a
sunbathers in summer. Legend of which stand 2 m (7 ft) high, national symbol.
has it that a girl was immured are among the area’s most
in a kneeling position in fascinating sights.
St Mary’s Church to keep the
devil away. This is reputedly g Taevaskoja
how Põlva, meaning “knee”
in Estonian, got its name. Sandstone Cliffs
The town was developed Road Map E2. @ from Põlva.
around St Mary’s Church, £ from Tartu. 8 Taevaskoja Tourism
which lay in ruins for a long & Holiday Centre, 5373 6406.
period until it was rebuilt after ∑ taevaskoja.ee
the Northern War (see p37).
Nearby, the Cultural Centre, Taevaskoja, meaning “Heaven’s
an award-winning building, Hall”, is famous for its sand stone
houses an art gallery, concert cliffs and natural beauty. The Big
hall and café, and offers and Small Taevaskoja cliffs are
panoramic views of the town among the main attractions in
from its terraced roof. Põlva is the Põlva area. They run along
also famous for the Intsikurmu the striking Ahja river, which is Sandstone cliffs at Taevaskoja, along the
Song Festival Grounds. Set in a regarded as one of Estonia’s Ahja river
small forested area on the west
side of the town, it regularly
hosts concerts. The Russian Old Believers
Opposing the sweeping reforms brought about by Patriarch Nikon
f Kiidjärve (1605–81), the Old Believers split from the Russian Orthodox
Church in the 17th century. Due
Watermill to persecution, many moved to
southeast Estonia, especially near
Road Map E2. @ from Põlva. Lake Peipsi where they have adhered
n Kiidjärve village, 799 2122. to their traditional way of life ever
8 ∑ visitestonia.com since. Today, there are 11 congrega-
tions of Old Believers in Estonia, com-
Built in 1914, the Kiidjärve prising about 15,000 members. They
Watermill is situated in are known for their love of onions,
the Kiidjärve-Taevaskoja which they grow in abundance. It
Recreational Area, a 32-sq-km is a local belief that onions ward off
(12-sq-mile) pocket of stunning Congregation of Old Believers various ills if eaten in large amounts.
natural beauty that also
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–9 and pp318–19


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EASTERN EST ONIA  127


h Lake Peipsi

The fifth-largest lake in Europe, Lake Peipsi stretches across
a large part of the eastern border with Russia. It is a tranquil
place, steeped in history and tradition, with the immense
lake dominating every aspect of life. The region is famous
for being home to the Old Believers as well as the Setu
people (see p124). The lakeshore has beautiful stretches
of sandy beach dotted with small fishing villages.


Lohusuu
1 Mustvee Fishing, a common activity on the
A small museum coast of Lake Peipsi
dedicated to the Old
Believers and three
churches are the main ESTONIA
sights here.
Omedu RUSSIA
Ranna
2 Raja
Famed for its Old Kallaste
Believers’ Church, the
4.5-km (3-mile) long
Raja is consi dered to Lake Peipsi 3 Kolkja
be the long est village The Museum of Old
in Estonia. Believers is the
highlight of Kolkja. The
village also has a good
0 km 15 Varnja restau rant that offers a
0 miles 15 taste of local cuisine.
Meerapalu

Laaksaare

Mehikoorma
5 Piirissaar
This island, on
which fishermen
Räpina and onion-
growers live,
can be reached
4 Kasepää by boat
Kasepää is part of a 7-km (4-mile) from Tartu
stretch of villages that adhere to and Värska.
the Old Believers’ way of life.

Tips for Drivers
Starting point: Mustvee.
Length: The road stretching from
Mustvee to Varnja is 46 km
(28 miles) and Meerapalu to
Värska is 56 km (35 miles). Key
Driving conditions: It is not 6 Värska Tour route
possible to drive the entire Sandy beaches and wildlife Other road
length. There are plenty of places make this village a pleasant
to stay just north of Kallaste. getaway. The Setu Village Ferry route
Museum is a big draw. International border

For keys to symbols see back flap


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LATVIA





Latvia at a Glance 130–131
A Portrait of Latvia 132–135

Latvia Through the Year 136–137
The History of Latvia 138–141
Rīga 142–165
Western Latvia 166–185
Eastern Latvia 186–203











































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130  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

Latvia at a Glance

Latvia is traditionally divided into four regions, roughly
corresponding to the territories of the old Baltic tribes. ESTONIA
Its long, sandy coastline includes two of the country’s
largest ports, while the western region of Kurzeme is LATVIA
heavily forested in the north. To the south, the flat and
fertile plains of Zemgale border Lithuania. In the north, LITHUANIA
Vidzeme has the most varied landscape, with a long
coastline as well as forests, wetlands and hills. Bordering
Russia and Belarus, the culturally distinct easternmost
Latgale region remains largely rural and undeveloped.

Rīga (see pp142–65) is the largest
city in the Baltic region, boasting a
UNESCO-listed historic centre and
one of the world’s greatest collec tions
of Art Nouveau architecture.
Ainaži
Salacgrīva Valka
Lake
Burtnieks
Limbaži Valmiera
Ventspils Valdemārpils Smiltene Alūksne
Mērsrags
Cēsis
Talsi Lake Saulkrasti
Lake Engure
Usmas
Engure Sigulda
Gulbene Balvi
Vecpiebalga
Kuldīga Tukums Jūrmala
Pāvilosta Rīga EASTERN LATVIA
(see pp186–203)
WESTERN LATVIA RĪGA Ērgļi
(see pp166–185) (see pp142–165) Madona
Aizpute Ogre Lake
Olaine Lubāns
Saldus Lielvārde
Durbe Skrunda Skrīveri
Liepāja Dobele Jelgava
Iecava Ludza
Lake Auce Rēzekne
Liepāja Priekule Jēkabpils
Bauska
Līvāni Lake
Preiļi Rāzna
Aglona
Daugavpils Krāslava


Rundāle Palace (see pp172–3), Latvia’s
most impressive surviv ing stately
home, was designed by Rastrelli
(1700–71), the Italian architect of St
Petersburg’s Winter Palace. Most of the
rooms at the palace are decorated in
the fanciful Rococo style of the second
half of the 18th century.
Picturesque Old Town as seen from a church tower in Rīga



130-131.indd 130 15/02/17 10:14 am

LA T VIA A T A GLANCE  131

Gauja National Park (see pp190–
93) is one of the most attractive
parts of the country and a popular
destination for both local and
foreign tourists. In addition to
providing a compelling mix of
natural attractions and historic
sites, it also offers some of
Latvia’s best opportunities for
outdoor activities, from
canoeing to bobsleighing.







0 km 25
0 miles 25
Ainaži
Salacgrīva Valka
Lake
Burtnieks
Limbaži Valmiera
Ventspils Valdemārpils Smiltene Alūksne
Mērsrags
Cēsis
Talsi Lake Saulkrasti
Lake Engure
Usmas The Latgale lakes area (see
Engure Sigulda
Gulbene Balvi p202) is studded with many
Vecpiebalga lakes. Although the Latgale
Kuldīga Tukums Jūrmala Uplands rise no higher than
Pāvilosta Rīga EASTERN LATVIA 300 m (984 ft), the crystal-clear
(see pp186–203)
WESTERN LATVIA RĪGA Ērgļi lakes enhance the beauty of
(see pp166–185) (see pp142–165) Madona this region, which is blessed
Aizpute Ogre Lake with unspoiled countryside.
Olaine Lubāns
Saldus Lielvārde
Durbe Skrunda Skrīveri
Liepāja Dobele Jelgava
Iecava Ludza
Lake Auce Rēzekne
Liepāja Priekule Jēkabpils
Bauska
Līvāni Lake
Preiļi Rāzna
Aglona
Daugavpils Krāslava



Aglona (see p199), the most important site of
Catholic pilgrimage in the region, is famed for a
17th-century icon of the Virgin Mary which is
only displayed on special occasions. The
busiest day of the year is the feast of the
Assumption, on 15 August, when thousands
of visitors flock to the Baroque church.




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A POR TR AIT OF LA T VIA  133
A PORTRAIT OF LATVIA



Lying between the other two Baltic States, Latvia is characterized by delightful
forests and lakes, fascinating historic towns and dynamic cities, which are, by
and large, unexplored. Nonetheless, the country’s exciting capital, Rīga, draws
hordes of Western Europeans throughout the year. The largest city in the Baltic
region, Rīga boasts a well-preserved Old Town packed with cultural treasures
and revels in its status as a hedonistic nightlife destination.
Long before the arrival of the German While still trying to come to terms with the
crusaders in 1201, local Latvian tribes had social, eco nomic and political legacies of
established trading links with merchants the 20th century, the country entered the
as far afield as Byzantium, while Orthodox 21st cen tury with confidence. The historic
Christianity had made inroads from the cores of Rīga and other major cities have
East. Yet, it was the crusaders who were been restored, while the rural areas are
responsible for ushering in eight centuries being developed for ecotourism.
of foreign domination. A short period
of self-determination in the early People
20th century ended with occupation first The most obvious ethnic divide is
by Nazi Germany and then by Soviet between the country’s Latvian and
Russia. The Soviet era brought rapid Russian communities, who make up
indust rialization, while the res toration of 60 and 30 per cent respectively of the
independence in 1991 further hastened country’s population of 2 million.
the pace of the country’s modernization. Although Russians form the majority in
Nonetheless, a distinctively Latvian culture Latvia’s major cities, a significant pro-
developed and survived, assimilating portion of them are not citizens, as they
foreign influences and substantial reg ional have not taken the mandatory language
differences. A connection with nature, and citizenship tests. They cannot vote
reflecting centuries of rural toil, has in national elections, nor are they allowed
remained intact at the same time. to travel and work freely in the EU.


























A splendid view of the countryside in Sigulda, Gauja National Park
One of the many cobbled lanes in Rīga’s Old Town



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134  INTRODUCING LA T VIA

























Traditional Latvian folk dancers performing at the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum, near Rīga
Minority groups include Lithuanians, Latvians have never taken strongly
Poles, Belarusians and Ukranians. Most to organized religion and today only
of Latvia’s Jews were executed or fled around a third of the population identify
during World War II, although some of themselves as Christians, mostly
the survivors returned and small Evangelical Lutheran.
communities exist today.
Politics and Economy
Society and Culture Since the restoration of independence,
Latvians are, by and large, socially Latvia has seen the birth of dozens of
conservative, and although employ ment political parties that have formed a
levels are equal for women and men, the succession of short-lived centre-right
latter are usually better paid. Women coalition governments. The end of
play a prominent role in public life, Communist rule has not meant the end
including making a mark on Latvian of widespread corruption, with a small
politics, but the female domain is still num ber of powerful oligarchs using
often considered to be the home. political influence to promote vested
The strict social hierarchy imposed financial interests. All this has bred a
by the Baltic Germans ensured the
survival and adaptation of many
folk traditions. Echoes of Latvia’s
pagan past remain to this day,
most obviously in the passionate
celebra tion of Midsummer, and
even city-dwellers profess a
connection with nature.
This is also reflected in the
popularity of flowers as gifts,
although it is important to give
bunches with an odd number
of stems, as even num bers are
associated with funerals. Latvian president at the anniversary of the proclamation of the Republic of Latvia




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A POR TR AIT OF LA T VIA  135

general sense of scepticism
towards the political system.
The Soviet authorities took
a primarily agricultural
economy and transformed it
to one based largely around
heavy industry, with an
associated influx of Russian
workers into the cities. The
collapse of the Soviet planned
eco nomy between 1989 and
1992 meant a sudden loss of
markets for Latvia’s goods,
and the country was plunged
into further crisis when four Ships docked at Liepāja harbour, a former Soviet naval base
newly privatized banks
crashed in 1995. From then tourist map. The area around the Old
until the economic crisis of 2008, priva­ Town is transforming to accommodate
tization, economic reform and low wages the growing number of visitors. The city
fostered rapid growth. Most raw materials is striving to recover its prized epithet of
are imported, with the exception of “Paris of the North”, which it once shared
timber, but industry has succeeded in with several other European cities.
attracting foreign invest ment. Exports However, the most fertile area for
include pharmaceuticals, tim ber, textiles, growth probably lies outside of the
electrical and electronic goods, ships, dairy urban areas, where the forests, rivers
products, beef and grains. Latvia has and lakes seem serenely untouched.
capitalized on its status as an East–West Even though the infrastructure is still
trade hub, while bettering its reputation developing, tourism offers genuine
as one of the best countries in central opportunities for reviving rural
Europe for the ease of doing business. economies, with some farm steads
Although money has been flooding already embracing the possi bilities
into the country, for the average person, of ecotourism.
the improvement in living
conditions has been slow.
A lack of employment
opportunities has
precipitated migration
from rural areas, either to
Latvian cities or to other
EU countries.
Tourism
One very evident change
in recent years has been
the rapid growth in
tourism. While much
of the country remains
under­explored by foreign
visitors, Rīga has firmly
established itself on the A group of rafters in the forested Kurzeme region




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136  INTRODUCING LA T VIA

LATVIA THROUGH
THE YEAR

With the pagan past never entirely erased concentrated in Rīga, although other cities,
by the German crusaders, the Latvian parti cularly Liepāja, have their share, and
calendar is punctuated by celebrations many smaller towns celebrate folk festivals.
which mark the rhythm of passing seasons. The best time to visit is from May to mid-
Many folk traditions are incor porated into September. Rīga, however, gets plenty of
Christian festivals, and they provide a tourists throughout the year due to its
chance to experience traditional acti vities. vibrant cultural life and it can look very
International cultural events are attractive on a clear winter’s day.


Art Days and Museum Nights.
Spring
At this lively festival, artists display
The rain and mud of early their work in streets and squares
spring can dampen the spirits. across the country. Concerts and
However, by April the country­ theatre perform ances are held,
side comes alive with dance and many museums stay open
and music. into the night.
March
Piano Stars (Mar–Apr), Liepāja. Summer
This festival was established in The summer months are the
1993 and attracts pianists from best time to visit, not only
around the world. because the weather is at its
most enjoyable, but because it
April is festival season.
International Baltic Ballet Knights fighting in the Baltic
Festival (Apr–May). The festi val, June Medieval Festival
which features styles of dance Rīga Opera Festival (mid-Jun),
ranging from classical to avant­ Rīga. An international festival Midsummer (23–24 Jun).
garde, is held in Rīga as well as mark ing the end of the Latvian On Herb Day (Līgo), houses
other towns. National Opera season, with an and barns are decorated with
over view of the previous year. branches, flowers and leaves.
May Arts and Crafts Fair (first In the evening, songs are
Livonian Festival (late May), weekend), Rīga. This event has sung around fires which
Cēsis. Highlights include been in existence since 1971, remain lit until the dawn
medieval music, food, crafts with music, theatre, dance and of St John’s Day (Jāņi).
workshops and battle traditional crafts demonstrations
re­enactments held in the at the Ethnographic Open­Air July
town’s Livonian Order castle. Museum (see p163). Sea Festival (second week end).
Fishermen are hon oured
along with the God of the Sea
in this nationwide festival.
Latvian Song and Dance
Festival, Rīga. This amateur
choral festival is the largest of
its kind in the world. It is held
every five years and is next
scheduled for 2018.
Folklore Baltica Festival, Rīga.
The three Baltic capitals host
the event in turns.
Rīgas Ritmi (first week), Rīga.
Jazz and world music artists
perform at this music festival.
Summer Sound, Liepāja.
This festival confirms the city’s
claim to be the home of
Performers at the Rīga Opera Festival Latvian rock music.




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LA T VIA THROUGH THE Y EAR  137


September Old Town Christmas Market
Railway Festival (first Sat), (Dec–early Jan), Rīga. Popular
Gulbene–Alūksne Narrow- with tourists and local people,
Gauge Railway (see p203). Events this festive market has a number
are held at various stops along of stalls selling handicrafts and
this 33-km (21-mile) railway line, warming winter treats, such as
with a restored steam engine as mulled wine.
the star attraction.
January
October Silver Bells International
New Music Festival Arēna Sacred Music Festival
(Oct–Nov), Rīga. A month- (mid-Jan), Daugavpils. A
long showcase for contem- comp eti tion with perform-
porary compositions. ances from a range of choirs,
Dancers in a street performance during ensembles and soloists.
Rīga City Festival November
Mārtiņdiena (10 Nov). This
Positivus, Mazsalaca. Latvia’s marks the beginning of
biggest pop and rock festival is winter. Events take place at
held next to the Baltic Sea and Rīga’s Ethnographic Open-Air
attracts international artists. Museum (see p163).
Lāčplēšis Day (11 Nov). A
August number of events are held on
Assumption of the Blessed this day in honour of Latvian
Virgin Mary (15 Aug), Aglona. freedom fighters.
Thousands of pilgrims visit
Latvia’s most important Catholic
place of worship. Winter
Rīga City Festival (mid-Aug). Short days and poor weather
First held in 2001 for the 800th can make travelling in winter a
anniversary of Riga’s founding, challenging proposition, but on
the festival includes concerts, a clear day Latvia’s snow-bound
street theatre and dance. land scape can be beautiful.
December Exhibit at the International Ice Sculpture
Autumn
Christmas (25–26 Dec). Festival, Jelgava
Autumnal colours can make Yule logs are dragged from
this season a pleasant time to house to house, collecting February
see the countryside, but the misfortunes of the International Ice Sculpture
temperatures fall rapidly from prev ious year before being Festival (early Feb), Jelgava.
mid-September. cere monially burned. One of the largest festivals of
its kind in the world. After the
event, the sculptures remain
on display until they melt in
the sun.
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
Good Friday (March/April)
Easter Sunday and Monday
(March/April)
Labour Day (1 May)
Restoration of the
Independence of the
Republic of Latvia (4 May)
Mother’s Day (second
Sunday in May)
Midsummer (23–24 June)
Proclamation of the
Republic of Latvia (18 Nov)
Christmas (24–26 Dec)
Visitors enjoying the beautiful city of Rīga in autumn




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138  INTRODUCING LA T VIA

THE HISTORY OF LATVIA


Latvia’s history is traditionally considered to have begun with the advent of the
Teutonic Knights in 1201, which started German dominance of the area for three
centuries. From the mid-16th to the early 18th century, Latvia was divided between
Poland and Sweden. By 1795, all of Latvia had been absorbed into Russia. Final
indepen dence from foreign domination was only achieved in 1991.



Latvia’s strategic geographical position, The Germans and the Swedes
which prompted its more powerful The power of the Germans quickly
neighbours to gain control over the extended across all of Latvia. Castles
region, largely decided the course of were built in Cēsis (1209), Kuldīga
its history. By the late 12th cen tury, (1242) and Valmiera (1283) to prevent
Latvia’s trade route up the Daugava any local resistance. Meanwhile,
river was increasingly visited by Rīga, Cēsis and Ventspils began to
merchants from Western Europe. thrive as members of the Hanseatic
The Teutonic Knights, German League (see p36). The beneficiaries of
warrior-monks who first arrived in Teutonic Knight in this growth were the Germans, who
1200, were looking for conquests as battle gear also owned large manors in the
well as new converts in a pagan countryside. The Latvians, on the
land. In 1201, they founded Rīga, other hand, were dis possessed and forced
which grew into an important centre for to become serfs.
trade between the Baltic region and The early 16th century saw the
Western Europe. population lending zealous support to
the Reformation movement, and soon
after, Protestantism was declared as the
state religion. In 1561, during the Livonian
Wars (see p37), Poland conquered Latvia
and Catholicism was firmly estab lished.
The separate Duchy of Courland, owing
allegiance to Poland, was created in the
south and west.
The clash between the Protestant
Swedes and Catholic Poles in the late
16th century resulted in Swedish rule in
northern Latvia for much of the 17th
King Gustav Adolphus landing near the Baltic coast in 1630 century. The Swedes were responsible for


1201 Rīga founded 1282 Rīga 1561 Latvia occupied
by Bishop Albert joins the by Poland
of Bremen Hanseatic Stone coat of arms of the 1558 Livonian
League
Hanseatic League Wars begin
1200 1300 1400 1500
1211 Building of Rīga 1536 First
Cathedral begins 1372 German record of
replaces Latin as 1520 First Lutheran Jewish
official language service held merchants
in Rīga
Rīga Cathedral




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THE HIST OR Y OF LA T VIA  139


spread ing education in the Latvian German control of many businesses
language throughout the coun try. and farms. The 1905 uprisings in
Under Gustav Adolphus (r.1611–32), Russia found a sympathetic echo in
Sweden conso lidated its hold Rīga and across the Latvian country­
over Livonia, which was then side, where over 100 manor houses
under Polish rule. Around the Jakob Kettler, Duke of were burned down.
same period, the Duchy of Courland
Courland flourished under Jakob The Fight for Freedom
Kettler (r.1642–81), who built a powerful navy When World War I broke out in 1914, Latvia
at Ventspils and also founded Latvia’s only became the main battleground between
colonies, on the Caribbean island of Tobago Germany and Russia, neither ever seizing its
and on the Gambia river in West Africa. entire territory. Latvia’s national aspirations
took a blow as many Latvians were forced
The Russian Empire to join the Russian army. The Latvians, who
In 1710, during the Great Northern War were permitted to form their own army in
(see p37), the Swedes surrendered Rīga to 1915, put up a spirited fight against the
Peter the Great of Russia. The Russians Germans at the Battle of Christmas, which
introduced 200 years of stability. Serfdom began on 23 December 1916. However, the
was abolished in 1819, which enabled Latvians were ultimately defeated and the
farmhands to migrate to the towns as Germans captured Rīga. The Allied victory in
industriali zation and the railways created a 1918 forced the German troops to withdraw.
wide range of new employment. Power Within a few days, on 18 November, Latvian
and money would, however, stay firmly in independence was declared.
German and Russian hands.
German mer chants still
enjoyed the privileges that
they had secured from the
Swedish rulers.
Towards the end of the
19th century, the Russians
attempted to replace
German with Russian as the
national language. This
infuri ated the Latvian intelli­
gentsia, who saw it as a sign
of oppression. They began
organizing political move­
ments hostile to the Tsarist
regime and continuing A 19th-century oil painting of ships at a Latvian port

1621 Rīga seized by King King Gustav Adolphus of Sweden (1594–1632) 1905 Socialist rev­
Gustav Adolphus of Sweden olution demands
1822 First independence
1680 Rīga’s first 1873 First
newspaper, in Latvian Latvian Song
German, started newspaper Festival held 1917 Russian
printed Revolution
1500 1600 1700 1800 1900
1536 First 1689 Bible 1710 Rīga 1850s National 1918 Formal
record of translated into conquered 1817 Serfdom Awakening 1914 German declaration of
Jewish Latvian by Peter outlawed Movement occupation of Latvian
merchants 1629 Sweden the Great in Kurzeme formed Latvia begins independence
in Rīga colonizes Latvia




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140  INTRODUCING LA T VIA

The First Independence Latvia a part of the USSR. Anyone who had
Latvia’s newly formed government was played a significant role in “bourgeois”
forced to flee to Liepāja in January 1919, Latvia was either executed or deported to
returning to Rīga in July, when the city had Siberia. The German invasion followed a
been freed of Bolshevik troops. year later, in June 1941, and most
Throughout that year, many forces of Latvia was occupied within
were ranged against Latvian inde­ 10 days. The Nazi regime was as
pendence and against each other, brutal, but with different targets.
including the Germans, Poles and Most of its victims were from the
Russians. Latvia was only assured of its Jewish com munity, which had
inde pendence when it signed a peace grown considerably after the
treaty with Russia on 11 August 1920. laws which restricted Jewish
Despite the constantly changing resi dence were lifted in 1840.
governments that ruled until 1934, President Kārlis Ulmanis
much was achieved during this (1877–1942) The Return of the Russians
period of indep endence. Trade was The Soviets returned to Eastern
re­directed west wards and away from Russia, Latvia and Rīga as “liberators” in autumn
the Latvian language had a resurgence and 1944, though the Germans held out until
Rīga came to be regarded as the Baltic May 1945 in the country’s west. This
region’s capital. The leading political figure enabled nearly 100,000 Latvians to escape
through out this period was Kārlis Ulmanis to Germany and Sweden, from where many
(1877–1942), who staged a coup in 1934 and continued on to Britain, Canada and
abolished parliament. He proclaimed himself Australia. In March 1949, the Russians
president, taking Mussolini as his role model. carried out more deportations; this time
Progress came to a grinding halt with the their victims were mostly farmers unwilling
Soviet invasion on 17 June 1940, making to join the new collectives. As Latvians
were forcibly removed from their own
country, Russians were happy to take their
place, and their numbers grew throughout
the Soviet era. By 1990, half the population
of the country was Russian­speaking and
there was a serious threat that Latvian would
dis appear as the national language. The
first public protest took place in 1987, when
a crowd gathered around the Freedom
Monument in Rīga, to com memorate the
1941 deportations to Siberia. New political
groups began to emerge a year later. The
Soldiers marching through Rīga in 1940 most forceful of them, the Popular Front of


1919 Bolshevik 1934 Coup 1939 Russia and Germany sign 1956 Athlete Inese
government in establishes the Ribbentrop­Molotov Pact Jaunzeme becomes the
power in Rīga for Kārlis Ulmanis first Latvian to win
six months as president 1940 First Soviet Olympic gold
occupation
1925 1935 1945 1955 1965
1935 The Freedom
1920 Russia Monument erected 1945 Reoccupation
recognizes Latvia’s in Rīga by Soviet Union
independence
Freedom Monument, Rīga 1941 Occupation by Nazi Germany





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THE HIST OR Y OF LA T VIA  141


Gorbachev, but it collapsed within two
days and Latvia suddenly found itself free.
Latvia was led during the first eight years
of independence by Guntis Ulmanis
(b.1939). Governments came and went
as they had done in the 1920s, but they
largely agreed on a slower policy of
privatization than the Estonians were
practising. The poor salaries being paid in
the public sector continued the low-level
corrup tion prevalent in the Soviet era and
introduced it at higher levels too.
The beginning of the 21st century saw
PLF supporters campaigning during the 1990 elections the effective integration of Latvia into
Western Europe, particularly with its joining
Latvia (PLF), demanded full independence the European Union in 2004, and
and won the elections in 1990. subsequent adoption of its shared currency,
the euro. Nonetheless, Latvia has still
Independence at Last managed to maintain its trading links with
The violence that broke out in January 1991 Russia. The status of Latvia’s population
showed the determina tion of the Latvians who speak Russian as their first language is
for independence. Eight people were killed a problem likely to trouble its post-
in clashes with Soviet forces in Rīga. In independence gov ernments. However,
August, Moscow’s conservative Communists sensitive hand ling of this issue can ensure
staged a coup against President Mikhail the country’s long-term security.

Jews in Latvia
In the early 19th century, Jews in the Russian Empire were
barred from the academic world, government and the
army officer corps. Anti-Semitism worsened under
Tsar Alexander III (1881–94). Between the two world wars,
President Ulmanis firmly suppressed the activities of fringe
groups that wanted to promote anti-Semitism. As part of
its Latvian invasion in June 1941, Nazi Germany put its
extermination policies into practice at once. The genocide
was carried out in two phases that year. By 1945, only
about 1,000 Jews, from a pre-war population of 95,000, had
survived. Jewish institutions were re-established in 1988, at
the end of the Soviet era. A proper evaluation of Jewish
history in all eras could only be carried out after Pro-German Latvian militia standing guard over
independence in 1991. captured Jews in Liepāja in 1941


President Vaira Vīķe-Freiberga (b.1937) 2007 Valdis Zatlers sworn in as president
1999 Vaira Vīķe-
1991 Latvian Freiberga becomes 2009 A riot in Rīga leads to the
independence Latvia’s first dismissal of the government, as
re-established woman president economic crisis hits Latvia
1965 1975 1985 1995 2005 2015
1970 Latvia’s Jewish 2004
population grows to 1990 PLF wins elections Latvia 2006 Latvia
50,000, most of 2001 Rīga joins hosts the 70th
whom live in Rīga 1993 A democratic celebrates its NATO IIHF Ice Hockey 2014 Latvia
constitution adopted 800th anniversary and EU Championships adopts the euro





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LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION  143

RĪGA


With its long history as a mercantile centre, Rīga is the largest
and most cosmopolitan city in the Baltic States. This is reflected
in the buildings that line its streets and squares. The Old Town
boasts an engaging array of medieval warehouses and Dutch
Renaissance apartments. Remarkable Art Nouveau buildings,
which secured the city UNESCO World Heritage Site status, can
also be found.

When German crusader Bishop Albert Blackheads, have been rebuilt or
von Buxhoevden chose Rīga as a restored. The “liberation” of Rīga by
strategic location for his fortress in 1201, the Red Army in 1944 ushered in almost
the area was already inhabited by tribes five decades of Communist rule, and
who traded with Russian and there are still more ethnic Russians than
Scandinavian mer chants. The German Latvians in Rīga; relations between the
settlement became the headquarters two communities are cordial but
for the subjugation of the region and rarely warm.
prospered as a member of the Since Latvia regained independence
Hanseatic League of trading cities. in 1991, Rīga has flourished, becoming
Ruled by Sweden from 1621 to 1710, a vibrant tourist destination with an
Rīga experienced a 19th-century impressive range of museums and a
heyday under the Russians. New spirited nightlife. Change has been rapid
suburbs were built for incoming and not always smooth, with the arrival
workers, the harbour was expanded, a of low-cost airlines in particular bringing
ring of boulevards was created in place its own challenges. Fashionable new bars
of the old fortifications, and in the and restaurants cater to growing crowds
20th century, industries such as auto- of visitors, and new glass and steel
mobile construction were developed. buildings have sprung up alongside
The capital of an independent Latvia the cobbled streets and church spires
between the world wars, Rīga suffered of the medieval Old Town. This is not a
heavily during both conflicts and many picture-perfect city stuck in time, but
of its oldest buildings were devastated. a lively metropolis intent on shedding
Several, including the striking House of the trappings of Soviet rule.



















Outdoor café on Cathedral Square (Doma laukums)
Figure at the top of the Freedom Monument, affectionately referred to as “Milda”



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144  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Rīga

For many centuries Rīga was largely contained within the city walls on
the right bank of the Daugava river. Now known as the Old Town, this S T R Ē L N I E K U I E L A A L B E R TA I E L A
area contains most of the city’s sites of interest. The main route through DZIRNAVU IELA
the tangle of picturesque streets and squares is Kaļķu Street, leading
from the Stone Bridge (Akmens tilts) to Brīvības Street and the ELIZABETES
Freedom Monument. When the city walls were removed in the IELA
mid-19th century, the space was developed into a ring of
boulevards and parks. The main train and bus stations lie on
the southeastern edge of this ring. To the north is the late KRONVALDA KALPAKA BULVĀRIS ANTONIJAS IELA
PARK
19th- and early 20th-century extension of the city known
as the Quiet Centre, which includes some of Riga’s most D Z I R N A V U I E L A
impressive Art Nouveau architecture. J ALUNĀNA SKOLAS IELA
IELA
IELA ELIZABETES
BAZNICAS IELA
Sights at a Glance VALDEMĀRA ESPLANĀDE IELA
Churches and Cathedrals u House of Blackheads
1 Dome Cathedral o Latvian Riflemen Monument
4 St Saviour’s Church p Mentzendorff House KRIŠJĀŅA
8 St Jacob’s Cathedral h Bastejkalns KALPAKA BULVĀRIS D Z I R N A V U I E L A
a St Peter’s Church j Freedom Monument BRĪVĪBAS BULVĀRIS
f St John’s Church R A I Ņ A B U LV Ā R I S
l Orthodox Cathedral IEL A P i l s e t a s C a n a l s BASTEJKALNS T Ē R B ATA S I E L A ELIZABETES
Museums and Galleries VALDEMĀRA JĒKABA
2 Museum of the Barricades KRIŠJĀŅA LAUKUMS IELA
of 1991 J Ē K VĒRMANES
PARK
3 Museum of Rīga’s T O R Ņ A I E L A MERĶEĻA IELA
History and Navigation LAUKUMS TORŅA IELA AB A I E L A
PILS
7 Art Museum Rīga Bourse BASTEJ A B U LVĀ RIS A S P A Z I J A S B U LV Ā R IS
BULVĀRIS
0 Arsenal Museum of Art VAĻŅU IELA BRĪVĪBAS
M P I L S I E L A S M I L Š U I E L A RAIŅA BULVĀRIS
e Powder Tower/Latvian War M SMILŠU IELA
Museum POĻU GĀTE PILS IELA
i Museum of the Occupation DOMA Z I R GU I E L A K BARONA IELA IELA
of Latvia 11 NOVEMBRA KRASTMALA MIESNIEK U IELA LAUKUMS MEISTARU IELA VAĻŅU IELA
s Museum of Decorative Arts KAĻĶU IELA MARIJAS
and Design ŠĶŪŅU IELA MUCENIEKU
d Porcelain Museum BĪSKAPA GĀTE PALASTA IELA TIRGOŊ U I E L A
g Photography Museum JAUNIELA KRĀMU TEĀTRA IELA
IELA
k Krišjānis Barons Memorial SKĀR ŅU IELA
Museum RĪDZENES IELA
RĀTS
z Latvian National Museum D a u g a v a LAUKUMS KUNGU IELA V A Ļ Ņ U I E L A
of Art AUDĒJU IELA
KALĒJU IELA KALĒJU IELA
x Museum of Jews in Latvia G R Ē C I N I E K U I E L A
c Pauls Stradiņš Museum of
the History of Medicine 1 1 NOVEMBRA KRASTMALA
v Art Nouveau Museum ŪDENSVADA PELDU IELA IELA
Buildings and Monuments AKMENS TILTS MĀRSTAĻU KALĒJU IELA
5 Rīga Castle 1 3 J A N V Ā R A I E L A
6 Three Brothers MINSTEREJAS IELA
9 Parliament
q Swedish Gate
w St Jacob’s Barracks
r Cats’ House
t Great Guild 0 metres 200
y Small Guild 0 yards 200
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22

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RĪGA  145

Key
Place of interest
Railway
S T R Ē L N I E K U I E L A A L B E R TA I E L A DZIRNAVU IELA Pedestrian Street



ELIZABETES
IELA
ANTONIJAS IELA
KRONVALDA
PARK KALPAKA BULVĀRIS
Town Hall Square, Rīga
J ALUNĀNA SKOLAS IELA Getting Around
IELA
D Z I R N A V U I E L A
IELA ELIZABETES The Old Town is compact and best explored on
BAZNICAS IELA foot: cars are only allowed on a few streets, and
VALDEMĀRA ESPLANĀDE IELA Nouveau district is within walking distance
there is no public transport. The main Art
of the Old Town, while a network of
KRIŠJĀŅA trams, trolleybuses and buses provides
access to further-flung attractions.
Old Town. The two tourist
KALPAKA BULVĀRIS D Z I R N A V U I E L A Taxis are also abundant outside the
R A I Ņ A B U LV Ā R I S BRĪVĪBAS BULVĀRIS information offices can offer
IEL A BASTEJKALNS T Ē R B ATA S I E L A ELIZABETES advice on guided tours.
VALDEMĀRA P i l s e t a s C a n a l s
JĒKABA
KRIŠJĀŅA LAUKUMS IELA
VĒRMANES
PARK
J Ē K
T O R Ņ A I E L A MERĶEĻA IELA
PILS TORŅA IELA AB A I E L A
LAUKUMS BASTEJ A B U LVĀ RIS A S P A Z I J A S B U LV Ā R IS
BULVĀRIS
M P I L S I E L A S M I L Š U I E L A VAĻŅU IELA BRĪVĪBAS RAIŅA BULVĀRIS
POĻU GĀTE PILS IELA
M SMILŠU IELA
MIESNIEK U IELA LAUKUMS Z I R GU I E L A MEISTARU IELA KAĻĶU IELA VAĻŅU IELA K BARONA IELA IELA
DOMA
MUCENIEKU MARIJAS
ŠĶŪŅU IELA
11 NOVEMBRA KRASTMALA
JAUNIELA KRĀMU SKĀR ŅU IELA TEĀTRA IELA
IELA
TIRGOŊ U I E L A
BĪSKAPA GĀTE PALASTA IELA
RĀTS RĪDZENES IELA
LAUKUMS KUNGU IELA V A Ļ Ņ U I E L A
AUDĒJU IELA
KALĒJU IELA KALĒJU IELA
D a u g a v a
G R Ē C I N I E K U I E L A
AKMENS TILTS ŪDENSVADA PELDU IELA IELA KALĒJU IELA
MĀRSTAĻU
1 1 NOVEMBRA KRASTMALA
MINSTEREJAS IELA 1 3 J A N V Ā R A I E L A




Rīga’s Old Town next to the Daugava river
For keys to symbols see back flap


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146  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION


is video footage shot around
the barricades, showing people
installing huge blocks of
concrete to defend strategic
points, including the Interior
Ministry and TV Tower. Scenes
shot at night are punctuated
by gunfire and shouting.
A final room is dedicated to
the people who were killed
in Bastejkalns (see p154).


3 Museum of Rīga’s
History and
Impressive Cross-Vaulted Gallery of the Dome, Dome Cathedral Navigation
1 Dome Cathedral 19th-century stained glass. The Rīgas vēstures un kuğniecības muzejs
Doma baznīca woodwork of the 17th-century Palasta iela 4. Map 1 C4. Tel 6721
1358. Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm
pulpit is ornate, however, as is
Doma laukums 1. Map 1 C3. Tel 6722 the organ case, which is daily; Oct–Apr: 11am–5pm Wed–Sun.
7573. Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm daily Mannerist with Baroque and & 8 ∑ rigamuz.lv
(to 5pm Wed & Fri); Oct–Apr: 10am– Rococo additions. It is possible Founded in 1773, this museum
5pm daily. Closed for special events. to visit the Cross-Vaulted is the oldest in Rīga. Housed in
& 5 8am Mon–Sat; noon Sun.
∑ doms.lv Gallery of the Dome, a an impressive building with
Romanesque cloister and tiled stoves and stained-glass
Founded as St Mary’s in 1211 by courtyard, all year round. windows, it is also one of the
Bishop Albert von Buxhoevden, city’s most interesting and
the cathedral became one of 2 Museum of the varied museums. The exhibition
the city’s three seats of power on navigation stresses the
alongside the Town Hall and the Barricades of 1991 strong maritime history of the
castle. It gained its current 1991 Gada barikāžu muzejs city up until World War I, and
name from the German word includes several large model
Dom, meaning “cathedral”, dur- Krāmu iela 3. Map 1 C4. Tel 6721 3525. ships and material on Krišjānis
ing the Reformation. The cathe- Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri. Valdemārs (see p195). Other
& donations. 8 ∑ barikades.lv
dral looks as if it has sunk, but in rooms cover everything from
fact the land around it has been prehistory to independence.
raised to keep out floodwater This museum recalls the pivotal Highlights from the Middle
from the Daugava river. days of January 1991 when the Ages include the Madonna on a
The largest place of worship people of Rīga took to the Crescent Moon, a sculpture of the
in the Baltic region, the streets, following the threat patroness of the Great Guild
cathedral has been altered over of direct presidential rule from dating from the late 15th
the years and its bulky structure Moscow and the stationing of century, which was taken to
exhibits a variety of styles. The Soviet tanks outside the Germany dur ing World War II,
altar alcove and the east wing Supreme Council in Vilnius. The and Big Kristaps, a large 16th-
crossing are Romanesque, with most fascinating of the exhibits century statue of St Christopher.
a cross-vaulted ceiling and rows
of semi-circular windows.
Simpler Neo-Gothic additions
are characterized by pointed
arches, large windows and
lierne vaulting, while the
eastern pediment and the
steeple are in an 18th-century
Baroque style. The portal was
added in the 19th century,
followed by an Art Nouveau
vestibule in the 20th century.
Most of the interior decor
was destroyed during the
Reformation, and it is now very
plain except for the tombs
of merchants and the Interior of the Museum of the Barricades of 1991
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22


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RĪGA  147

4 St Saviour’s 6 Three Brothers collection of 16th–20th-century
Church Trīs brāļi European paintings and
19th- century paintings from
Anglikāņu baznīca 17–21 Mazā pils iela. Map 1 C3. China and Japan. There is also a
Anglikāņu iela 2a. Map 1 C3. Tel 6722 Museum of Architecture: Tel 6722 collection of porcelain and glass,
2259. 5 11am every Sun. Free 0779. Open 9am–6pm Mon, which features pieces from the
lunchtime con certs are held at 1pm 9am–5pm Tue–Thu, 9am–4pm Fri. Danish Royal Porcelain Factory.
every Wed. ∑ anglicanriga.lv & donations. ∑ archmuseum.lv
This row of buildings on Mazā
Funded by British merchants, pils Street known as the Three
this small Neo-Gothic church, Brothers covers three distinct
built in 1857, is the only architectural styles. Number 17,
Anglican place of worship in the with a stepped gable and
city. The English bricks were Gothic niches, dates from the
brought as ballast on trading 15th century and is Rīga’s oldest
ships, and the church was even residential building made out of
built on a layer of British soil. stone. The ears of wheat on the
During the Soviet era it was stones beside the door indicate
used by students as a disco and that it was owned by a baker.
recording studio, but since the The wooden interior of the
second independence in 1991 it 17th- century building at num-
has been reopened for worship, ber 19 now houses the small
and the congregation includes Museum of Architecture. The Entrance of St Jacob’s Cathedral, the seat of
English-speaking expatriates. green building at number 21 Rīga’s Catholic archbishop
was built in the 18th century.
8 St Jacob’s
5 Rīga Castle 7 Art Museum Rīga Cathedral
Rīgas pils Sv Jēkaba katedrāle
Bourse
Pils laukums 3. Map 1 C3. Klostera iela 1. Map 1 C3. Tel 6732
History Museum of Latvia: Tel 6722 Mākslas muzejs Rīgas Birža 6419. Open May–Sep: 9am–7pm;
1357. Open check website for details. Doma laukums 6. Map 1 C3. Tel 6722 Oct–Apr: 9am–6pm. 5 8am.
& 8 ∑ history-museum.lv 3434. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to Sited outside the old city walls,
8pm Fri). ∑ rigasbirza.lv
St Jacob’s was built in 1225 to
The city’s original Livonian This impressive building, built in serve the surrounding villages.
Order castle was destroyed the ornate Venetian Renaissance The church was renowned for
by Rīga’s citizens during a war style in 1856, was once one of having its bell not in the Gothic
against the Order lasting from the city’s most elegant edifices. steeple but hanging from a
1297 to 1330. After losing, the However, years of neglect and a cupola, which is still visible on
townspeople were forced to fire in 1979 destroyed much of its the southern side although the
build a new castle on the beauty. After three years of bell has gone. It was rung to
present site just outside the city. renovation, it opened its doors in signal that an exe cution was
Continuing quarrels led the 2011 as the home of the new Art taking place in the city,
Master of the Order to leave Museum Rīga Bourse, which has although another story insists
the capital, but Rīga Castle was taken over the collection of the that it was heard when unfaithful
destroyed by the citizens once Foreign Art Museum once women passed by the church.
more in 1484. Again they were housed in Rīga Castle. The Today, the cathedral is the seat
defeated and the next castle the museum has an extensive of Rīga’s Catholic archbishop.
towns people were compelled
to build forms the core of the
current structure and was the
head quarters of the Livonian
Order until 1561.
As well as being the official
resi dence of Latvia’s president,
the buil ding houses the History
Museum of Latvia, which is
currently closed. The castle was
damaged during a fire in 2013;
The first phase of reconstruction,
covering the president’s quarters
finished in 2016. A second phase,
covering the museum, will not
be fully completed until 2024. Changing of the guard outside Rīga Castle




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148  LA T VIA REGION B Y REGION

9 Parliament
Saeima
Jēkaba 11. Map 1 C3. ∑ saeima.lv
This rather anonymous
building, constructed from
1863 to 1867 with Florentine
Renaissance features, and
renovated several times since,
was originally used for meet-
ings of the local landed gentry.
From 1919 to 1934, as today,
it served as the seat of Latvia’s Imposing façade of Latvia’s Parliament
Parliament, while during World
War II it was the headquarters customs house between 1828 but pleasant, Aldaru Street.
of Friedrich Jeckeln – the SS and 1832 in the style of Russian Newly married couples include
officer who oversaw the killing Classicism. The name “Arsenal” the gate on their tour of the city,
of Latvia’s Jews, Roma and comes from a pre vious building as passing through it is said to
other “undesi rables”. Later it on the same spot, built by the bring good luck.
was used by the Supreme Swedes. The downstairs
Soviet of Latvia. Nearby stands exhibition space particularly
a monument that was built benefits from airy rooms and
to commemorate those who high ceilings.
died in the Barricades of 1991
(see p146).
q Swedish Gate
0 Arsenal Museum Zviedru vārti
of Art Between Torņa iela & Aldaru iela.
Map 1 C3.
Mākslas muzejs Arsenāls
Torņa 1. Map 1 C3. Tel 6735 7527. The sole remnant of eight city
Open noon–6pm Tue, Wed & Fri; gates, the Swedish Gate was
noon–8pm Thu; noon–5pm Sat & Sun. built in 1698 during a period of
& ∑ lnmm.lv
Swedish rule in Rīga. It runs
This is Rīga’s premier venue through the ground floor of the Swedish Gate, built through the ground
for shows of cutting-edge house at Torņa 11, and legend floor of an old house
art. There is no permanent has it that the gate was created
collection, but the temporary illegally by a wealthy mer chant
exhibitions are generally of high to give him more direct access w St Jacob’s
quality. The emphasis is on to his warehouse. More likely, Barracks
art from the middle of the it was built for the use of the
20th century onwards, either soldiers stationed at St Jacob’s Jēkaba kazarmas
produced in Latvia or by Barracks. Today the gate Torņa iela. Map 2 D3.
Latvians living abroad. The provides access between the
imposing one-storey building popular strip of shops and bars Built in the 17th century to
on Jēkaba Square was built as a on Torņa Street and the quieter, house Swedish soldiers, this
yellow block is now home to
shops and restaurants. The
barracks also played a brief
role in the nation’s cultural
development, as the site of an
artists’ commune opened in
1917, although the building
retained its military purpose.
Many of the members went
on to join the influential Rīga
Artists’ Group of the 1920s and
30s. Opposite is the oldest
remaining stretch of the city
wall, dating from the 13th to
16th centuries but restored
Paintings and sculpture exhibited at the Arsenal Museum of Art during the Soviet era.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–301 and pp320–22


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