(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Paris

EYEWITNES S TRAVEL

Paris






































































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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL

Paris






































































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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL

Paris






















Main Contributor Alan Tillier














































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Project Editor Heather Jones
Art Editor Janis Utton Introducing Paris
Editor Alex Gray
Designer Vanessa Hamilton
Design Assistant Clare Sullivan Great Days in Paris 10
Contributors
Chris Boicos, Michael Gibson, Douglas Putting Paris on
Johnson, Alan Tillier the Map 14
Photographers
Max Alexander, Neil Lukas, Robert O’Dea The History of
Illustrators Paris 18
Stephen Conlin, Stephen Gyapay,
Maltings Partnership Paris at a Glance 44
This book was produced with the assistance
of Websters International Publishers. Paris Through
Printed and bound in China the Year 64
First published in Great Britain in 1993
by Dorling Kindersley Limited A River View
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK Tourists on the steps in front of the
Sacré-Coeur of Paris 68
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Reprinted with revisions 1994, 1995,
1997 (twice), 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002,
2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008,
2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014,
2015, 2016, 2017
Copyright © 1993, 2017 Dorling Kindersley
Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored
in a retrieval system, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording
or otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available
from the British Library.
ISBN 978 0 2412 7733 1
Floors are referred to throughout
in accordance with French usage; ie
the “first floor” is the floor above
ground level.
The stunning vaulted ceilings of La Galerie d’Apollon in the Musée du Louvre


The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Title page Architect I M Pei’s iconic glass pyramid at the entrance to the Musée du Louvre Front cover image The Eiffel Tower on the
Champ de Mars Back cover image Pont de la Tournelle with Notre-Dame in the background



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Contents







Paris Area by Area Travellers’ Needs Survival Guide

Ile de la Cité and Where to Stay 280 Practical Information 358
Ile St-Louis 78
Where to Eat and Getting to Paris 368
The Marais 92 Drink 288
Getting Around Paris 374
Beaubourg and Shops and Markets 312
Les Halles 106 Paris Street Finder 382
Entertainment in
Tuileries Quarter 118 Paris 332 General Index 416
St-Germain-des-Prés Children’s Paris 352 Acknowledgments 436
136
Phrase Book 440
Latin Quarter 150
Jardin des Plantes
Quarter 162
Luxembourg Quarter
170

Montparnasse 176
Invalides and Eiffel Tower The Seine and the Eiffel Tower viewed from the Pont Alexandre III
Quarter 184

Chaillot Quarter
198
Champs-Elysées
206

Opéra Quarter
214
Montmartre 222

Further Afield 232
Eight Guided
Walks 260






Arc de Triomphe





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6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you get with maps, photographs and detailed
the most from your stay in Paris with the illustrations. In addition, eight planned
minimum of practical difficulty. The opening walks take you to parts of Paris you might
section, Introducing Paris, locates the city otherwise miss.
geographi cally, sets modern Paris in its Carefully researched tips for hotels, shops
historical context and explains how Parisian and markets, restaurants and bars, sports
life changes through the year. Paris at a Glance and entertainment are found in Travellers’
is an overview of the city’s specialities. The Needs, and the Survival Guide has advice on
main sightseeing section of the book is Paris everything from posting a letter to catching
Area by Area. It describes all the main sights, the Metro.

Paris Area by Area
The city has been divided into These are clearly located by the section is made simple by
14 sightseeing areas. Each numbers on an Area Map. This is the numbering system used
section opens with a portrait of followed by a large scale Street- throughout for the sights. This
the area, summing up its by-Street Map focusing on the refers to the order in which they
character and history, with a list most interesting part of the are described on the pages that
of all the sights to be covered. area. Finding your way about complete the section.

Colour-coding on each page makes
P ARIS AREA B Y AREA  93
THE MARAIS the area easy to find in the book.
The Marais went from royal enclave in the Picasso, Musée Carnavalet and Maison de
17th and 18th centuries to a wasteland Victor Hugo, as well as the beautiful
during the Revolution. Eventually taken over Place des Vosges, make it a must on every
by artists and shopkeepers, this area has now visitor’s list. Some of its old-world charm
climbed its way out of dilapidation, with can still be found in Rue des Rosiers, Paris’s
trendy restaurants, bars and chic boutiques, Jewish quarter, with its small cafés and
while rising property prices have driven many cobblestoned passageways. A hot spot for
locals away. Its elegant mansions, world-class eclectic art galleries, the Marais is also the A locator map shows you where
museums and art galleries such as Musée heart of the Parisian gay community.
you are in relation to surrounding
areas. The area of the Street-by-
0 metres 400
0 yards 400 Street Map is highlighted.
See also Street Finder R U E D U V E R T B O I S Temple
maps 13–14 R ST MARTIN Arts et Métiers RUE DE TURBIGO RUE DU T EMP L E CITE DUPETIT THOUARS RUE BERANGER République R U E
RUE BEAUBOURG LE COMTE R MICHEL RUE CHAPON R REAUMUR RUE DES ARCHIVES RUE DE BRETAGNE RUE CHARLOT RUE DE TURENNE Filles du Calvaire St-Sébastien B O U L E VA R D AMELOT 180m BOULEVARD RICHARD LENOIR Numbered circ
RUE PERREE
R AU M AIRE
Oberkampf
R U E D U T E M P L E
A M E L O T
PASSAGE ST PIERRE
BOULEVARD DU TEMPLE
PASSAGE ST SEBASTIEN E
listed sights on the area map.
R OBERKAMPF V O LTA I R
RUE PASTOURELLE
RUE DES
AUX CHOUX
T E M P L E HAUDRIETTES RUE DES 4 FILS R U E C H A R LO T PERLE R VIEILLE DU TEMPLE THORIGNY RUE DE M A RAIS RUE DU PONT Froissart RUE PELÉE ALLÉE VERTE BAUDIN RUE ALPHONSE Richard Lenoir SQUARE RICHARD LENOIR
RUE ST CLAUDE
D U RUE DES ARCHIVES R DES FRANCS BOURGEOIS R BARBETTE R ELZEVIR PARC ROYAL RUE DU RUE R U E RUE ST SABIN SQUARE BLVD RICHARD LENOIR
R PAYENNE
R DES BLANCS MANTEAUX
TACHERIE R DE LA de Ville R U E D E T U R E N N E R DE BEARN DES TOURNELLES BOULEVARD BEAUMARCHAIS Bréguet Sabin
Parisians relaxing in the Place des Vosges in the Marais Hôtel R U E R DE LA VERRERIE RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE R DE LA RUE ST GILLES Chemin Vert BREGUET SABIN
Sights at a Glance QUAI DE GESVRES R DE LOBAU R U E RUE D E DU ROI DE RUE PAV EE RU E DES FRANCS BOURGEOIS A M E LO T
PLACE DES
Historic Buildings and Streets Opera Houses Restaurants see pp296–8 Pont Notre- Dame Pont R FRANCOIS MIRON St-Paul R I V O L I SICILE R DE SEVIGNE VOSGES BLVD RICHARD LENOIR
2 Hôtel de Lamoignon w Opéra National de Paris Bastille 1 Amici Miei d'Arcole QUAI DE L'HOTEL DE VILLE R DE JOUY R DES TOURNELLES Recommended restaurants in
3 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois Museums and Galleries 2 L’As du Fallafel Port de l'Hôtel R DE L’HOTEL DE VILLE Pont Marie Bastille
de Ville
8 Rue des Rosiers 1 Musée Carnavalet pp96–7 3 Bofinger Pont Louis
p Hôtel de Ville 4 Musée Cognacq-Jay 4 Les Bonnes Soeurs Philippe FAUCONNIER RUE DU RUE SAINT PAUL R U E S T AN Bastille
d Hôtel de Rohan 6 Maison de Victor Hugo 5 Café Charlot Pont Marie BEAUTREILLIS RUE R CASTEX T O IN E the area are listed and plotted
Churches 7 Hôtel de Bethune-Sully 6 Café de l’Industrie QUAI DES CELESTINS R DU PETIT MUSC
t St-Paul–St-Louis 9 Hôtel de Coulanges 7 Le Chemise Sully Morland BOULEVARD HENRI IV
8 Chez Hanna
o St-Gervais–St-Protais 0 Musée Picasso Paris pp100–1 9 Claude Colliot Pont de on the map.
a Cloître des Billettes q Pavillon de l’Arsenal 10 Le Colimaçon Sully RUE CRILLON
s Notre-Dame-des-Blancs-Manteaux y Hôtel des Archevêques Sens 11 Le Dindon en Laisse
Monuments u Maison Européenne de la 12 L’Ilot Q U AI BOULEVARD MORLA ND BOULE VAR D BO UR DON BOULEVARD DE LA BASTILLE
13 Le Petit Marché
Photographie
e Colonne de Juillet f Hôtel de Soubise 14 Les Philosophes Bassin de l'Arsenal
i Mémorial de la Shoah g Hôtel de Guénégaud (Musée de 15 Qui Plume la Lune H EN RI
Squares la Chasse et de la Nature) 16 Le Trumilou IV
5 Place des Vosges h Musée des Arts et Métiers 17 Le Villaret
r Place de la Bastille k Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
j Square du Temple du Judaïsme
For keys to symbols see back flap
152  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA LA TIN QU AR TER  153
Area Map Street-by-Street: Latin Quarter Begun in the 13th century, this beautiful
3 . St-Séverin
fine example of the Flamboyant Gothic style.
1For easy reference, the sights in Since the Middle Ages, this riverside quarter has been Place St-Michel church took three centuries to build and is a
contains a
dominated by the Sorbonne, and acquired its name from
fountain by
the early Latin‑speaking students. It dates back to the
Davioud. The
Little Athens is a
Rue du Chat qui
bronze statue by
Roman town across from the Ile de la Cité; at that time,
Pêche (meaning
each area are numbered and the Rue St‑Jacques was one of the main roads out of Duret shows St “street of the lively place in the Locator Map
evening, especially at
Michael killing
Paris. The area is generally associated with artists,
fishing cat”) is the
the weekend, when
the dragon.
intellectuals and the bohemian way of life; it also has a
the Greek restaurants
narrowest street
in Paris at just
See Central Paris Map pp16–17
located on an area map. To help history of political unrest. In 1871, the Place St‑Michel St-Michel Metro 1.8 m (6 ft) wide. situated in the
touristy streets
became the centre of the Paris Commune, and in May
around St-Séverin
1968, it was the site of the student uprisings. Today, the
are at their busiest.
the visitor, the map also shows eastern half has become sufficiently chic, however, to QUAI ST MICHEL PETIT PONT
contain the homes of some of the establishment.
metro and mainline RER stations RUE DE LA HARPE RUE DE LA HUCHETTE
Metro Cluny
and car parks. La Sorbonne BLVD ST MICHEL RUE ST JULIEN LE PONT AU DOUBLE Shakespeare & Co (see pp323–4) at
if chaotic, bookshop. Any books
purchased here are stamped with
Stars indicate the sights RUE DU PETIT PONT PAUVRE QUAI DE MONTEBELLO No. 37 Rue de la Bûcherie is a delightful,
Shakespeare & Co Kilomètre Zéro Paris.
that no visitor should miss. 2 . Boulevard St-Michel RUE GALANDE
The northern end of the Boul’Mich, as it is
affectionately known, is a lively mélange of
cafés, book and clothes shops, with bars and
experimental cinemas nearby.
RUE ST-JACQUES RUE LAGRANGE
Numbered sights, such BLVD ST-GERMAIN 4 . St-Julien-le-Pauvre
One of the oldest churches in
as St-Séverin 3, are RUE DES ECOLES RUE THENARD Rue du Fouarre used to host Paris, St-Julien-le-Pauvre has
13th-century Romaneque
lectures in the Middle Ages.
architecture. The vault was
The students sat on straw
shown on this map. (fouarre) in the street. added in the 17th century.
Metro 0 metres 100
Mutualité
No. 22 Rue Maubert Rue Galande was home 0 yards 100
to the rich and chic in
1 . Musée National du St-Séverin is the the 17th century, but Key
narrowest house in
subsequently became
Moyen Age Paris and used to be notorious for its taverns.
One of the finest collections of medieval art the residence of Abbé Suggested route
in the world is kept here in a superb late Prévost, author of
A suggested route for a walk 15th-century building. Manon Lescaut.
takes in the most attractive and
interesting streets in the area. Street-by-Street Map
2This gives a bird’s-eye view of the heart of each sightseeing
area. The most important buildings are picked out in
stronger colour, to help you spot them as you walk around.
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HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

Paris at a Glance 48  INTRODUCING P ARIS P ARIS A T A GLANCE  49
Sacré-Coeur
Each map in this section Paris’s Best: Places of Worship Above the altar in this massive basilica, the
chancel vault is decorated with a vast
The Catholic Church has long been the bastion of Parisian
society and many of the city’s fine churches are worth mosaic of Christ by Luc-Olivier Merson.
concentrates on a specific visiting. Architectural styles vary and the interiors are
often spec tacular. Most churches are open during
the day and many have services at regular intervals.
theme: Museums and Galleries, Paris’s tradition of church music is still evident. You Montmartre
can spend an evening enjoying the interiors while
listening to an organ recital or classical concert (see
Places of Worship, Gardens, p338). A more detailed overview of Paris’s places of La Madeleine St-Eustache
worship is on pages 50–51.
Parks and Squares. The top Built in the style of a Greco- With its mixture of Gothic
Roman temple, this church is
and Renaissance styles,
known for its fine sculptures.
this is one of the finest
churches in Paris.
sights are shown on the map; 0 kilometres 0.5 1 St-Paul–St-Louis
0 miles
other sights are described on Chaillot Quarter Champs-Elysées Tuileries Quarter This Christ figure is
one of the many
Opéra
rich furnishings in
this Jesuit church,
built in 1641 for
the following two pages. R i v e r S e i n e Quarter Beaubourg Cardinal Richelieu.
and
Les Halles
Invalides and Eiffel The Marais
Tower Quarter St-Germain-
des-Prés Ile de la Cité
Each sightseeing area is Dôme Church Ile St-Louis
This memorial to the military Notre-Dame
Latin
colour-coded. engineer Vauban lies in the Quarter the Revolution, until Victor Hugo led a
The great cathedral was left to rot after
Dôme Church, where Napoleon’s
remains were buried in 1840. Luxembourg restoration campaign.
Quarter
Jardin des Plantes
Quarter
Sainte-Chapelle Montparnasse
With its fine stained
glass, this chapel is a Grande Mosquée
medieval jewel. de Paris
The minaret of this
1920s mosque is nearly
Panthéon 33 m (100 ft) tall. St-Séverin
The Neo-Classical Sainte-Geneviève, The west door leads into
now the Panthéon, was inspired by one of the finest medieval
Wren’s St Paul’s Cathedral in London. churches in the city.
180  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA MONTP ARNASSE  181
1 La Coupole 5 Tour Louis Pasteur in 1888–9. He 0 Fondation Cartier w Observatoire
102 Blvd du Montparnasse 75014. Montparnasse discovered the process of 261 Blvd Raspail 75014. Map 16 E3. de Paris Practical Information
milk pasteurization, as well as
Map 16 D2. Tel 01 43 20 14 20. 33 Ave du Maine 75014. Map 15 C2. Tel 01 42 18 56 50. q Raspail. Open
q Vavin, Montparnasse. Open q Montparnasse-Bienvenüe. vaccines against rabies and 11am–8pm Tue–Sun (to 10pm Tue). 77 Ave Denfert-Rochereau 75014.
8am–11pm daily (to midnight Sat & Tel 01 45 38 52 56. Open Apr–Sep: anthrax. The centre houses Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 ^ 8 Map 16 E3. Tel 01 40 51 22 21 (2–4pm
Sun). See Where to Eat and Drink p305. 9.30am– 11.30pm daily (last lift 11pm); a museum that includes a ∑ fondation.cartier.com Mon–Fri). q Denfert-Rochereau. lists all the information you
reconstruction of Pasteur’s
Closed to the public for revovations;
Established in 1927, this historic Oct–Mar: 9.30am–10.30pm daily apartment and laboratory. This foundation for contem- call for latest details. & 8 visite.
(to 11pm Fri & Sat). & 0 - 8
café-restaurant and dance hall ∑ tourmontparnasse56.com It was designed by his porary art is housed in a [email protected] ∑ obspm.fr need to visit every sight,
underwent a face-lift in the grandchildren (also scientists) building designed by architect
1980s. Its red velvet seats and This was Europe’s largest office and is faithful to the original Jean Nouvel. He has created an In 1667 Louis XIV was
famous columns, decorated by block when it was built in 1973 down to the last detail. Pasteur’s air of transparency and light, as persuaded by his scientists
various artists, have survived. as the focal point of a new tomb is in a basement crypt well as incorporating a cedar and astronomers that France including a map reference
Among its clientele have been business sector. At 210 m (690 ft) built in the style of a small of Lebanon planted in 1823 needed a royal obser vatory.
Jean-Paul Sartre, Josephine high, it totally dominates the Byzantine chapel. The tomb of by François-René de Building began on 21 June, the
Baker and Roman Polanski. area’s skyline. The views from Dr Emile Roux, who discovered Chateaubriand. The structure day of summer solstice, and to the Street Finder at the
the 59th floor are spectacular – the treatment for diphtheria, is complements the nature of took five years to complete.
up to 40 km (35 miles) on a in the garden. The institute has the exhibitions of progressive One of the leading astronomy
2 Musée Zadkine clear day. The tower also has Panoramic view of Paris from the laboratories for pure and art, which showcase personal, centres in the world, research back of the book.
Europe’s fastest lift (56 floors in 38 59th floor of Tour Montparnasse applied research, lecture group or thematic displays, undertaken here included the
100 bis Rue d’Assas 75116. Map 16 E1. seconds) and a panoramic bar. theatres, a reference section, often including works by calculation of the exact
Tel 01 55 42 77 20. q Notre-Dame-
des-Champs. Open 10am–6pm Tue– Hall in an extension and include and a hospital established to young unknowns. dimensions of the solar system
Sun. Closed public hols. & 8 by 6 Musée Antoine the group of sculptures for the apply Pasteur’s theories. There in 1672, calculations of the
appt, Tel 01 49 54 75 92. 7 limited. relief decoration of the Théâtre is also a library – the institute’s q Catacombes de dimensions of longitude, the
∑ zadkine.paris.fr Bourdelle des Champs-Elysées. original building from 1888 – mapping of the moon in 1679
18 Rue Antoine Bourdelle 75015. where research into AIDS is Paris and the discovery of the planet Numbers refer to each
The Russian-born sculptor Map 15 B1. Tel 01 49 54 73 73. carried out, led by pioneering 1 Ave du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy Neptune in 1846.
Ossip Zadkine lived here from q Montparnasse-Bienvenüe. 7 Musée de la Professor Luc Montagnier, who 75014. Map 16 E4. Tel 01 43 22 47 63.
1928 until his death in 1967. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Poste discovered the HIV virus in 1983. q Denfert-Rochereau. Open 10am– sight’s position on the
The small house, studio and Closed public hols. & 7 limited. 34 Blvd de Vaugirard 75015. Map 15 5pm Tue–Sun (last adm: 4pm).
garden contain his works. ∑ bourdelle.paris.fr B2. Tel 01 42 79 24 24 or 01 53 71 Closed public hols. & 8
Here he produced his great 98 49. q Montparnasse-Bienvenüe. 9 Notre-Dame ∑ catacombes.paris.fr area map and its place
commemorative sculpture, The prolific sculptor Antoine Closed for renovations until 2017; du Travail
Ville Détruite, commissioned by Bourdelle lived and worked in temporary exhibitions take place at 36 Rue Guilleminot 75014. Map 15 B3. In 1786 a monumental project
Rotterdam after World War II, the studio here from 1884 until various venues in Paris until 2017. Tel 01 44 10 72 92. q Pernety. Open began here: the removal of the
and two monuments to Vincent his death in 1929. The house, & 8 by appt. Library. 7.30am–7.45pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7.30pm millions of skulls and bones in the chapter.
Van Gogh, one for Holland and studio and garden are now a ∑ ladressemusee delaposte.fr Sat, 8.30am–7:30pm Sun. 5 9am, from the unsanitary city
one for Auvers-sur-Oise, where museum devoted to his life and 12.15pm, 7pm Mon–Fri (only at 7pm cemetery in Les Halles to the
Van Gogh died. The museum’s work. Among the 900 sculptures Every conceivable aspect of the on Wed during school hols); 6.30pm quarries at the base of the three
works span the development of on display are the original plaster history of the French postal Sat; 9am (in Portuguese), 10.45am, “mountains”: Montparnasse,
Zadkine’s style, from his Cubist casts of his monumental works service and methods of transport 6pm Sun (in Latin). ∑ notredame Montrouge and Montsouris. The façade of the Observatoire
beginnings to Expressionism planned for wide public squares. is covered in this well laid-out dutravail.net During World War II, the
and Abstractionism. They are housed in the Great collection. There is even a room French Resistance set up its
devoted to mail delivery in times This church dates from 1901 headquarters here. Above the e La Closerie des
3 Rue Campagne- of war – carrier pigeons were and is made of an unusual mix door outside are the words “Stop! Lilas
used during the Franco-Prussian
of materials: stone, rubble and
This is the empire of death.”
Première War with postmarks stamped bricks over a riveted steel and 171 Blvd du Montparnasse 75014.
Map 16 E2. Tel 01 40 51 34 50. q
on their wings. Postage stamp
iron framework. It was the
75014. Map 16 E2. q Raspail. art is displayed in the gallery. creation of Father Soulange- Vavin. W Port Royal. Open Piano bar:
11–1.30am, restaurant: noon–2.30pm
cooperatives and sought to
This street has some interesting Boudin, a priest who organized & 7–10.30pm, brasserie: noon–
12.30am. ∑ closeriedeslilas.fr
Art Deco buildings and a long 8 Institut Pasteur reconcile labour and capitalism.
artistic tradition. Modigliani, 25–28 Rue du Docteur Roux 75015. Local parishioners raised the Lenin, Trotsky, Hemingway and
ravaged by opium and Map 15 A2. Tel 01 45 68 80 00. q money for its construction, but Scott Fitzgerald all frequented
tuberculosis, lived at No. 3 during Pasteur. Open 2–5.30pm Mon–Fri. lack of funds meant that many the Montparnasse bars, but the
his last years. Between the wars Closed Aug, public hols. & 8 features, such as the bell towers, Closerie was their favourite.
many artists resided here, such as compulsory (2, 3 & 4pm); ID required. were never built. On the façade Much of Hemingway’s novel
Picasso, Joan Miró and Kandinsky. Tours of 10+ people: apply 3 months hangs the Sebastopol Bell, a The Sun Also Rises takes place
in advance (01 45 68 82 83 or musee@ trophy from the Crimean War here– he wrote it on the terrace
4 Cimetière du pasteur.fr). ^ = ∑ pasteur.fr given to the people of the in just six weeks. Today the
terrace is ringed with trees and
Plaisance district by Napoleon III.
Montparnasse Sculptures in the Great Hall of the The Institut Pasteur, France’s The Art Nouveau interior has Skulls and bones stored in the Catacombes the area is more elegant than in
the 1920s, but much of the
been completely restored and
leading medical research centre,
See pp182–3. Musée Antoine Bourdelle was founded by the scientist features paintings of saints. de Paris original decor remains.
Detailed Information on each Sight The Visitors’ Checklist
3All important sights in each area are described provides the practical information
in depth in this section. They are listed in order, you will need to plan your visit.
following the numbering on the Area
Map. Practical information on opening 226  P ARIS AR e A B y AR e A mon T m AR TR e  227
hours, telephone numbers, websites, 1 Sacré-Coeur The Siege of Paris ViSiTOrS’ ChECKliST
At the outbreak of the Franco-Prussian War in 1870, two Prussia invaded France in 1870. Practical Information
During the four-month siege of
admission charges and facilities Catholic businessmen made a private religious vow to Paris, instigated by the Prusso- 33 Rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre
build a church dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Christ,
75018. Map 6 F1. Tel 01 53
German statesman Otto von
41 89 00. Basilica: Open 6am–
should France be spared the impending Prussian
10.30pm daily. Dome and crypt:
Bismarck, hungry Parisians were
available is given for each sight. onslaught. The two men, Alexandre Legentil and Hubert forced to eat the city’s horses Open 9am–6pm daily. Crypt:
and other animals.
Rohault de Fleury, lived to see Paris saved from
Closed Oct–Apr: Tue.
& for crypt and dome.
invasion despite the war and a lengthy siege – and
5 7am, 11.15am, 6.30pm,
The key to the symbols used can the start of work on the Sacré-Coeur basilica. The 10pm Mon–Fri (processional at
project was taken up by Archbishop Guibert of
3pm Fri); 7am, 11.15am, 10pm
Sat; 7am, 11am, 6pm, 10pm Sun.
Paris. Work began in 1875 to Paul Abadie’s
designs. They were inspired by the Romano- ^ 7 restricted. = ∑ sacre-
coeur-montmartre.com
be found on the back flap. Byzantine church of St-Front in Périgueux. The Principal Façade . Ovoid Dome Transport
The basilica was completed in 1914, but its
The best view of the domed
and turreted Sacré-Coeur is
q Abbesses (then take
consecration was forestalled by World War I
until 1919, when France was victorious. from the gardens below. This is the second-highest point the funiculaire to the steps
of the Sacré-Coeur), Anvers,
in Paris, after the Eiffel Tower.
Barbès-Rochechouart, Lamarck-
Caulaincourt. @ 30, 31, 54, 80, 85.
h Blvd de Clichy, Rue Custine.
The façade of each major sight is
shown to help you spot it quickly. . Great Mosaic of Christ
The colossal mosaic
The basilica’s most important
(1912–22) dominating the Statue of Christ
chancel vault was designed statue is symbolically placed
by Luc Olivier Merson and above the two bronze saints.
Marcel Magne.
Virgin Mary
and Child (1896) Equestrian Statues
This Renaissance-style The statue of Joan of Arc is one of
silver statue is one of a pair by H Lefèbvre. The other is
two in the ambulatory of Saint Louis.
by P Brunet.
KEY
1 The bell tower (1895) is 83 m
Stars indicate the most interesting (252 ft) high and contains one of the
heaviest bells in the world. The bell
itself weighs 18.5 tonnes and the
architectural details of the building, clapper 850 kg (1,900 lb).
2 Spiral staircase
3 The inner structure supporting
and the most important works of the dome is made from stone. . Crypt Vaults . Bronze Doors
4 The stained-glass gallery
affords a view of the whole of
Relief sculptures on the doors in
art or exhibits on view inside. the interior. A chapel in the basilica’s Main entrance the portico entrance illustrate
crypt contains Legentil’s
scenes from the life of Christ,
heart in a stone urn.
such as the Last Supper.
Paris’s Major Sights
4These are given two or more full pages in the sightseeing
Numbered circles point out key area in which they are found. Historic buildings are dissected
features of the sight listed in a key. to reveal their interiors; and museums and galleries have
colour-coded floorplans to help you find important exhibits.
006-007_EW_Paris.indd 7 03/04/17 10:48 am

008-009_EW_Paris.indd 8 25/04/16 5:23 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

INTRODUCING


PARIS





Great Days in Paris 10–13

Putting Paris on the Map 14–17
The History of Paris 18–43
Paris at a Glance 44–63
Paris Through the Year 64–67

A River View of Paris 68–75












































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10  INTRODUCING P ARIS

GREAT DAYS IN PARIS

Paris is a city packed with treasures and but the selections can also be dipped into
wonderful things to see and do. Here are for ideas. All sights are reachable by public
itineraries for some of the best of the transport. Price guides on pages 10–11 are
attractions, arranged first under themes and for two adults or for a family of two adults
then by length of stay. Sightseers should and two children, including admission
manage everything on these itineraries, charges and meals.


the Louvre courtyard. Revel
Artistic Treasures
in the cosy red velvet and gilt
of the interior or, on warm days,
Two adults sit in the outside gallery.
allow at least €220
• Fabulous art at the Louvre Afternoon
Choose from three destinations
• Lunch at chic Café Marly
for the afternoon. If you’re in a
• A visit to the Musée Rodin, contemplative mood, head to
the Musée Picasso or the the Musée Rodin (p191) for a
Pompidou Centre soothing stroll in the sculpture
• Dine at classy restaurant garden and a pensive moment
Mini Palais next to The Thinker. For modern
masterpieces, visit the superb The entrance to Fauchon, a gastronomic
Pompidou Centre (pp110–13), temple on the Right Bank
Morning an intriguing inside-out building
Begin with the Musée du housing works from 1905 to the Food Lovers’ Paris
Louvre (pp122–9), one of the present day. Fans of Picasso
world’s most impressive shouldn’t miss the superb Musée
museums. Beat the crowds by Picasso (pp100–101), set in a Two adults
using the little-known entrance gorgeous mansion in the Marais. allow at least €260
at the Carrousel du Louvre • Buy gourmet treats at
(99 Rue de Rivoli). You could Evening La Grande Epicerie
easily spend a whole day here, The Palais de Tokyo (p205) is • Lunch at an inventive
but if time is limited, pick up one of Paris’s most adventurous modern bistro
a floorplan and choose a few exhibition spaces, and its
choice works to concentrate on. multimedia displays are open • Dine at Frenchie
until midnight. Round off the
Lunch evening with dinner at Le
There are many eateries nearby, Mini Palais (p301), a classy Morning
but the smart Café Marly (p299) contemporary brasserie with One of the best one-stop shops
offers an unbeatable setting in a superb colonnaded terrace. for gourmets is La Grande
Epicerie at Le Bon Marché
(p191), in St-Germain, stocking
a superb range of delicious
edibles. Other specialist shops
in the area include Poilâne,
renowned for its bread,
chocolatier Richart, and Pierre
Hermé (for all, p327), which
makes the best macaroons
in Paris. Don’t miss one of the
local morning markets, such
as atmospheric Place Monge
(Wed, Fri & Sun am), or head
down Rue Mouffetard for the
buzzing street market.
Lunch
St-Germain-des-Prés has some
wonderfully inventive modern
bistros, few better than
Pyramide du Louvre, from across the fountain pools Kitchen Galerie Bis (p304).
View of the market at Fontaine des Innocents by John James Chalon



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GREA T D A Y S IN P ARIS  11


Afternoon even a decommissioned
Make your way to Place de la submarine to explore. Have
Madeleine, on the Right Bank, lunch at the Cité des Sciences
renowned for fabulous food or enjoy a picnic in the park.
emporiums Fauchon (p327)
and Hédiard (p327). Enjoy a Afternoon
wine tasting at Ô Chateau Cross the river and explore the
(p311), or head to the city’s beautiful Jardin des Plantes
most sumptuous salon de thé at (p169), a botanical garden
the Musée Jacquemart-André with a playground, hothouses
(p211), in a perfectly preserved and a small zoo. Even more
Haussmann-era mansion. exciting than the live animals
for some kids are the skeletons
Evening and stuffed animals in the
For dinner in a classic Parisian Muséum National d’Histoire
bistro, try Bistrot Paul Bert (p307). Naturelle (p168). If energy
For a more contemporary take levels are still high, make for Modern water sculpture and glasshouse,
on French cuisine, try Frenchie the Eiffel Tower (pp196–7), an Parc André Citroën
Bar à Vins (p311), where it’s irresistible draw to children.
easier to get a table than at the Book well in advance to avoid gardens, cafés and often
much-hyped parent restaurant. long queues. Or you could wait workshops, food fairs or open-
until nightfall, and time your air concerts. When you get to
trip to coincide with the light the Pont de la Concorde, either
show on the changing of the cross over to the elegant Jardin
hour, when thousands of lights des Tuileries (p132) or carry on
twinkle for five minutes. If as far as the Musée d’Orsay
you’re feeling a little less (pp146–9) and hop on the
ambitious, a good alternative batobus. Stop at Notre-Dame
is the Arc de Triomphe (pp212– (pp82–5), then head over to
13), which also offers splendid the tranquil Ile St-Louis (p79)
panoramic views. with its leafy quais.
Riverside Parks and Lunch
Gardens Have lunch at Café St-Régis
(p296), on the Ile St-Louis.
Two adults
Reflections in La Géode, a giant sphere allow at least €69 Afternoon
at the Parc de la Villette • Berges de Seine Strike south to the Jardin du
• Lunch on the Ile St-Louis Luxembourg (p174), one of
the city’s loveliest parks. Laze
Paris with Children • A walk to the Jardin on one of the metal chairs

du Luxembourg scattered around the central
Family of four • Take a balloon ride pond, or visit the Musée du
allow at least €180 Luxembourg, which hosts
• Visit the science museum excellent art exhibitions. For
and Parc de la Villette From the Pont de l’Alma, stroll some wonderful views over
• Explore the splendid along the Berges de Seine, a Paris, head west to the Parc
Jardin des Plantes riverside promenade on the André Citroën (p245) and
Left Bank, comprising floating take a tethered balloon ride.
• Go up the Eiffel Tower

Morning
La Cité des Enfants, the
children’s section of the science
museum (Cité des Sciences et
de l’Industrie; pp240–41) is
great for receptive young minds.
The museum’s permanent
exhibition is excellent, with
plenty of hands-on activities,
but be sure to book online. The
Parc de la Villette (pp238–9) has
playgrounds, a dragon slide and A floral display in the Jardin des Plantes




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12  INTRODUCING P ARIS


of the Old Masters in the
Denon Wing. Walk through the
pretty Jardin des Tuileries
(p132) to the historic Place de
la Concorde (p133), then catch
a bus along the Avenue des
Champs-Elysées (p211) to the
Arc de Triomphe (pp212–13).
Day 2
Morning Devote your morning
to the Latin Quarter (pp152–3),
home to the stately Panthéon
The medieval Gothic cathedral of Notre-Dame (pp160–61), the renowned
Sorbonne university (p159) and
splendid Musée Picasso (pp100– the superb Musée de Cluny –
2 days in Paris
101), or take in the dazzling Musée National du Moyen Age
collection of modern art in the (pp154–7), which has the
• Explore Ile St-Louis and Pompidou Centre (pp110–13). beautiful tapestry series The
visit majestic Notre-Dame Lady and the Unicorn, and
• Admire Old Masters and Afternoon Cross over into Roman baths beneath it. Peer
antiquities in the Louvre St-Germain-des-Prés (pp138–9), down ancient Rue Mouffetard
with its elegant boutiques and (p168) before taking a rest in the
• Ascend the Eiffel Tower
food shops. Take a stroll in the Jardin du Luxembourg (p174).
at sunset for fabulous Jardin du Luxembourg (p174),
views across the city
then head over to Louis XIV’s Afternoon Immerse yourself
imposing Hôtel des Invalides in the grandeur of the Hôtel
Day 1 (pp186–7). End your day with a des Invalides (pp186–7), the
Morning Explore tranquil Ile visit to the Eiffel Tower (pp196– final resting place of Napoleon
St-Louis (p79), with its attractive 7). At sunset, the views from Bonaparte. Next stop is the
shops and leafy quais, before the top are unforgettable. Musée d’Orsay (pp146–9) and
crossing Pont St-Louis to take its collection of Impressionist
in the glorious cathedral of 3 days in Paris masterpieces. Wind down with
Notre-Dame (pp82–5), with a stroll along the Berges de
its buttresses and gargoyles. Seine, then pay a sunset visit
Head west across Ile de la Cité • See the Champs-Elysées to the Eiffel Tower (pp196–7).
(pp80–81) to the Gothic jewel and the Arc de Triomphe
of Sainte-Chapelle (pp88–9). • Enjoy the Impressionists Day 3
in the Musée d’Orsay Morning Explore the vibrant
Afternoon Walk over to the • Climb up to Montmartre Marais (pp94–5) and stop for
Right Bank and make for the and Sacré-Coeur a coffee in Place des Vosges
Musée du Louvre (pp122–9), (pp98–9), the city’s most
home to Leonardo da Vinci’s beautiful square. Head to the
Mona Lisa and countless other Day 1 extraordinary Pompidou Centre
treasures. Stroll through the Morning Start your day in the (pp110–13), with its world-class
charming Jardin des Tuileries charming Café de Flore (p141) collection of modern art.
(p132) to the architectural set in St-Germain-des-Prés (pp138–
piece of Place de la Concorde 9), which was at the heart of the
(p133). Follow Avenue des city’s intellectual life in the 1950s.
Champs-Elysées (p211) as far as Take in medieval St-Séverin
the Arc de Triomphe (pp212– (p158) before crossing to the Ile
13), which promises fabulous de la Cité (pp80–81), site of the
views from the top. Dine in Gothic Notre-Dame (pp82–5)
Montmartre (pp224–5), where and Sainte-Chapelle with its
the Sacré-Coeur (pp226–7) is beautiful stained-glass windows
splendidly illuminated at night. (pp88–9). Nearby Ile St-Louis
(p79) is an oasis of calm which
Day 2 also happens to have the most
Morning Explore the chic famous ice-cream shop in the
streets of the Marais (pp94–5), city, Maison Berthillon (p311).
the historic Jewish Quarter
around Rue des Rosiers (p99), Afternoon Visit the huge
and the beautiful Place des Musée du Louvre (pp122–9), Main gallery of the Musée d’Orsay, converted
Vosges (pp98–9). Visit the making a beeline for the works from a railway station into a museum




012-013_EW_Paris.indd 12 03/04/17 10:55 am

GREA T D A Y S IN P ARIS  13


Afternoon Stroll the arcades to see the tombs of notable lakes, and visit the spectacular
of the Palais-Royal (p130), the figures such as Chopin, Jim Frank Gehry-designed
childhood home of Louis XIV, Morrison and Oscar Wilde. Fondation Louis Vuitton.
and the delightful Jardin du Follow the Canal St-Martin
Palais-Royal (p131). Duck in (p237) to the futuristic Parc de Day 4
and out of the 19th-century la Villette (pp238–9). Take in Morning Spend the day
passages off Rue Vivienne, the state-of-the-art science out of the city, at magnificent
with their quirky shops and museum (pp240–41) or the Versailles (pp250–55), Louis
wonderful decor, on your way fascinating Musée de la XIV’s royal palace. Tour the
to Galeries Lafayette (p313), Musique (p238), then catch sumptuous apartments
the classic Parisian department a concert at the stunning on the first floor.
store. Take in the evening light Philharmonie de Paris (p239).
from Sacré-Coeur (pp226–7) on Afternoon Explore the
top of Montmartre (pp224–5). palace’s fabulous gardens,
landscaped by André Le
Nôtre, and the smaller Grand
5 days in Paris
Trianon and Petit Trianon
palaces (p251).
• Visit the hauntingly
beautiful Père-Lachaise Day 5
cemetery Morning Sample intellectual
• Marvel at Frank Gehry’s Paris in Café de Flore (p141) in
stunning Fondation Sunny café terrace in the elegant Marais St-Germain-des-Prés (pp138–
Louis Vuitton 39), a long-time haunt of writers
Day 3 and philosophers. Visit the Latin
• Take a train to Versailles,
Morning See the dazzling Quarter (pp152–3), home of the
Louis XIV’s splendid palace
collection of Impressionist sublime church of St-Séverin
paintings at the Musée d’Orsay (p158), fine medieval art in the
(pp146–9) and enjoy a coffee Musée National du Moyen
Day 1 break in its stylish café. Walk on Age (pp154–7), the Panthéon
Morning View Paris from atop via the riverside promenade mausoleum (pp160–61) and
the Arc de Triomphe (pp212–13) known as the Berges de Seine the Sorbonne university (p159).
before walking east along the to the Musée Rodin (p191), Step back in time on old Rue
Avenue des Champs-Elysées near the impressive Hôtel Mouffetard (p168) before
(p211). Cross the grand expanse des Invalides (pp186–7). having lunch in Montparnasse
of Place de la Concorde (p133) For a change of scene, seek (pp178–9).
and the Jardin des Tuileries out Rue Cler (p192), with its
(p132) to the historic Palais- street market and bistros. Afternoon Relax in the Jardin
Royal (p130), with its immaculate du Luxembourg (p174), then
grounds and elegant arcades Afternoon Scale the Eiffel head north to the Right Bank
sheltering quirky shops. Tower (pp196–7), then either and the opulent Opéra Garnier
visit the Musée de l’Homme (pp218–19). Treat yourself at
Afternoon Get to know the (p203) in the Palais de Chaillot Galeries Lafayette (p313), then
islands of the Seine, Ile St-Louis (p202), or head out to the climb Montmartre (p224–5)
(p79) and Ile de la Cité (pp80– Bois de Boulogne (p247), to the ethereal Sacré-Coeur
81), where you’ll find the Gothic with its attractive gardens and (pp226–7) to watch the sun set.
masterpieces Notre-Dame
(pp82–5) and Sainte-Chapelle
(pp88–9). While away the rest
of the day in the spectacular
Musée du Louvre (pp122–9).
Day 2
Morning Move east across the
vibrant Marais (pp94–5) district
from the Pompidou Centre
(pp110–13), with its fabulous
modern art collection. Pause
for a coffee in the elegant
Place des Vosges (p98–9).
Afternoon Visit the city’s most
famous cemetery, the Cimetière
du Père Lachaise (pp242–3), The beautiful formal gardens at Louis XIV’s palace, Versailles




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14  INTRODUCING P ARIS
Harwich Rotterdam
No rt h
Putting Paris on the Map Sea Luzarches
NETHERLANDS
Paris, the capital of France, is a city of over Pontoise Paris-
two million people covering 105 sq km Sheerness Montmorency Charles de Gaulle
(40.5 sq miles) of northern France. It is on Flushing Seine Argenteuil Saint-Denis Meaux
the River Seine at the centre of the Ile-de- Ramsgate (Vlissingen) Poissy Aulnay-sous-Bois
France, the region that is home to more Zeebrugge Antwerp Bobigny
than 12 million people, around one-fifth Ostend (Antwerpen, Anvers) See next Nogent-sur-Marne
page
of the French population. An important Dover (Oostende) Versailles
European business and cultural centre, it is Gent
(Gand)
the focus of activity in the north of France. Tunnel Dunkirk Antony Créteil
Channel
(Dunkerque)
Calais Paris-Orly
Folkestone Brussels Montgeron Fontenay
Trésigny
(Bruxelles, Brussel) Palaiseau
Western Europe NORWAY Evry
SWEDEN
Boulogne Roubaix BELGIUM Arpajon
Nor th Lille
Sea DENMARK
UNITED Dourdan
KINGDOM Le Touquet
REP. OF
IRELAND NETHERLANDS POLAND Mons Charleroi
GERMANY Lens
BELGIUM CZECH Douai Valenciennes
REPUBLIC
Paris SLOVAKIA
Arras
AUSTRIA HUNGARY Cambrai
Atlantic FRANCE SWITZ. SLOV.
Ocean CROATIA Abbeville GERMANY
BOSNIA SERBIA
ITALY HERZ.
MONTEN.
KOS.
MAC.
ALBANIA
PORTUGAL Amiens LUXEMBOURG
SP AIN GREECE St Quentin Trier
Charleville- Sedan
Oise Mézières Luxembourg
Laon
Le Havre Moselle
Rouen
Beauvais
Compiègne
Reims
Chantilly Verdun
Caen Seine Metz
See inset map above Marne
Chalons-en- Meuse
Champagne
PARIS
Argentan Nancy
Dreux
St-Dizier
Sées
Chartres Seine
FRANCE
Fontainebleau
Troyes
Key Nogent-le-
Rotrou Epinal
Greater Paris Chaumont
Motorway
Major road
Railway 0 kilometres 50
Country border 0 miles 50 Orléans
Auxerre
For additional map symbols see back flap
014-015_EW_Paris.indd 14 03/04/17 10:55 am

PUT TING P ARIS ON THE M AP  15
Harwich Rotterdam
No rt h
Sea Ile-de-France Luzarches
NETHERLANDS
Pontoise
Paris-
Charles de Gaulle
Sheerness Seine Montmorency
Flushing Meaux
(Vlissingen) Poissy Argenteuil Saint-Denis
Ramsgate Aulnay-sous-Bois
Zeebrugge Antwerp Bobigny
(Antwerpen, Anvers) See next
Ostend page Nogent-sur-Marne
Dover (Oostende) Versailles
Gent
Dunkirk (Gand) Antony Créteil
Channel
Calais (Dunkerque) Paris-Orly
Tunnel
Folkestone Brussels Montgeron Fontenay
Trésigny
(Bruxelles, Brussel) Palaiseau
Evry
Boulogne Roubaix BELGIUM Arpajon
Lille 0 kilometres 20
Le Touquet Dourdan 0 miles 20
Mons Charleroi
Lens
Douai Valenciennes
Arras
Cambrai
GERMANY
Abbeville
Amiens
St Quentin LUXEMBOURG Trier
Charleville- Sedan
Oise Mézières Luxembourg

Laon
Le Havre Moselle
Rouen
Beauvais
Compiègne
Reims
Chantilly Verdun
Caen Seine Metz
See inset map above Marne
Chalons-en- Meuse
Champagne
PARIS
Argentan Nancy
Dreux
St-Dizier
Sées
Chartres Seine
FRANCE
Fontainebleau
Troyes
Nogent-le-
Rotrou Epinal
Chaumont



Orléans
Auxerre



014-015_EW_Paris.indd 15 03/04/17 10:55 am

16  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Central Paris

This book divides Paris into 14 areas, comprising central
Paris and the nearby area of Montmartre. Most of the sights
covered in the book lie within these areas, each one of
which has its own chapter. Each area contains a range of
sights that convey some of its history and distinctive
character. The sights of Montmartre, for example, reveal its RUE LAMARCK
RUE CA U LAINCOURT
village charm and its colourful history as a thriving artistic RUE FRANCOEUR
CIMETIÈRE DE MONTMARTRE
enclave. In contrast, Champs-Elysées is renowned for its MONTMARTRE PLACE DU Sacré-
wide avenues, expensive fashion houses and opulent RUE DURANTIN TERTRE Cœur
mansions. Most of the city’s famous sights are within reach Dôme Church
of the heart of the city and are easy to get to on foot or by The gilded Dôme Church (see pp188– BLVD DE CLICHY
public transport. 9) lies at the heart of the Invalides. PLACE BLVD DE ROCHECHOUART
PIGALLE



AVE HOCHE
AVENUE
RUE DU FAUBOURG ST HONORE
MAC MAHON
Arc de AVE DE FRIEDLAND BLVD HAUSSMANN
Triomphe RUE
A V E N U E F O C H WASHINGTON RUE LA BOETIE RUE DU FAUBOURG ST HONORE PLACE DE LA BLVD DE BLVD DES BLVD
BLVD HAUSSMANN
RUE DE
RUE DU COLISEE
A V E N U E V IC T O R HUG O
ITALIENS
MIROMESNIL
RUE AUBER
CAPUCINES
A VEN UE K L E B E R
AVE BUGEAUD
MADELEINE
BLVD F LAND R I N RUE DE LONGCHAMP RUE COPERNIC AVENU E D’IENA AVENUE MARCEAU A V ENU E GE O R G E V RUE FRANCOIS 1ER D ROOSEVELT AVE FRANKLIN AVE DE MARIGNY RUE ROYALE RU E
RUE DU
RUE DE RICHELIEU
RUE
AVE MONTAIGNE
PLACE
REPUBLIQUE
VENDOME
CHURCHILL
AVENUE DES CHAMPS ELYSEES
RUE D. CASANOVA
RUE REAUMUR
AVE W
RUE DES PETITS
CHAMPS
RUE BEAUBOURG
RUE CROIX DES
CONCORDE
RUE E.
RUE DE LA POMPE AVENUE RAYMOND POINCARE
R U E D U T E M P L E
CHAILLOT AVENUE DU PRES WILSON QUAI D’ORSAY QUAI D’ORSAY PLACE DE LA JARDIN DES JARDIN DU RUE S T PETITS CHAMPS R U E DU LO U V R E MONTMARTRE MARCEL BLVD DE SEBASTOPOL RUE DE TURBIGO RUE DE
RUE DE
AVE DE NEW YORK
TURBIGO
TUILERIES
AVENUE GEORGES MANDEL
R U E D E R I V O L I
BLVD VOLTAIRE
AVENUE PA UL DOUMER JARDINS DU QUAI BRANLY AVENUE RAPP L’UNIVERSITE BLVD DE LA TOUR MAUBOURG AVE DU M GALLIENI B LV D S T CARROUSEL Musée du R U E D E R I V O L I RUE ST MARTIN Geor
RUE DE
TROCADERO
H ON O R E
Musée
QUAI DES TUILERIES
Louvre
QUAI A. FRANCE
Centre
Picasso
RUE
Musée
Eiffel Tower RUE SAINT DOMINIQUE d'Orsay BAC QUAI VOLTAIRE Pompidou Musée BLVD BEAUMARCHAIS
QUAI DU FRANCOIS MITTERRAND
Carnavalet
Named after the engineer who RUE D E PASSY Tour RUE DE GRENELLE INVALIDES RUE DES FRANC S B OURGEOIS
designed and built it in 1889, the PASSY Eiffel RUE DE RUE DU DAUPHINE QUAI DE LA MEGISSERIE RUE DE RIVOLI BLVD RICHARD LENOIR
PLACE
AVENUE BOSQUET
Eiffel Tower is the city’s best-known RUE R AYNOUARD CHAMP DE R U E D E BELLECHASSE G E RM A I N RUE D ES SAINTS PERES RUE JACOB RUE DE SEINE Chapelle QUAI DE PLACE DES
Ste-
PARC DU
R UE C L E R
VOSGES
land mark (see pp196–7). It towers AVENUE DU PRESIDENT KENNEDY AVENUE DE SUF FREN Hôtel des ILE DE LA L'HOTEL DE VILLE MARAIS RUE
A VENU E D E L A B O U RD O N N A I S
MARS
Invalides
CITÉ
more than 320 m (1,050 ft) above RUE DE BOULAIN VILLIERS AVE DE LA MOTTE PICQUET RUE VANEAU V A R E N N E BLVD RASPAIL RUE ST ANDRE Notre- QUAI DES ST ANTOINE PLACE
DE LA
DES A RTS
BOULEVARD BOURDON BASTILLE
Champ-de-Mars park. Seine AVE DE LOWENDAL R U E D E B A B Y LO N E RUE DE RENNES ST-SULPICE BLVD du Moyen Age Dame ST-LOUIS BLVD HENRI IV
CELESTINS
ILE
AVE DUQUESNE
AVE DE SEGUR
ST
PLACE
R U E DE
QUAI DE LA
TOUR NO N
Musée National GERMAIN
TOURNELLE
RU E DE VA UG IRARD
LATIN
QUARTER
RUE D'ASSAS
AVE DE SUFFREN
JARDIN DU RUE ST JACQUES Panthéon RUE DU CDL LEMOINE QUAI ST BERNARD
RUE DE RENNES D
LUXEMBOURG
R U E D E V A U G I R A R BOULEVARD RUE D'ASSAS BOULEVARD SAINT MICHEL RUE G. LUSSAC RUE MOUF FETARD RUE LA CEPEDE R UE C U V I E R
Seine
R U E S A I N T J A C Q U E S
JARDIN DES
PLANTES
RUE BUFFON
B O U L E V ARD D E L ’ H O P I TA L
BLVD DU MONTPARNASSE
BLVD E. QUINET
RUE MONGE
RUE GEOFFROY
SAINT HILAIRE
B LVD P ASTEUR
ROCHEREAU
MONTPARNASSE RA RUE C. BERNARD B L V D S T M A R C E L QUAI D’AUSTERLITZ
0 metres 800 RUE FROIDEVAUX AVE DENFERT AURIOL
CIMETIÈRE DU SP AI L
0 yards 800 R UE AL AIN
PLACE
A V E N U E D U M A I N E
DENFERT
Musée du Louvre ROCHEREAU BOULEVARD VINCENT
Right in the heart of Paris, adjacent to the River Seine and the
Tuileries garden, lies the city’s most impressive museum, with an D'ITALIE
PLACE
unrivalled collection of artifacts from around the world (see pp122–9).
At the entrance, I M Pei’s famous glass pyramid forms a striking
contrast with the palace buildings and formal gardens.
For keys to symbols see back flap
016-017_EW_Paris.indd 16 03/04/17 10:49 am

PUT TING P ARIS ON THE M AP  17











RUE CA U LAINCOURT RUE DURANTIN PLACE DU Sacré-
CIMETIÈRE DE RUE LAMARCK RUE FRANCOEUR
MONTMARTRE
MONTMARTRE
TERTRE
Cœur
BLVD DE ROCHECHOUART
BLVD DE CLICHY
PLACE
PIGALLE

Sacré-Coeur
AVE HOCHE Standing majestically above Montmartre
AVENUE
RUE DU FAUBOURG ST HONORE
MAC MAHON
Arc de AVE DE FRIEDLAND BLVD HAUSSMANN is the striking basilica of Sacré-Coeur. Built
Triomphe RUE between 1875 and 1914, it is dedicated to
A V E N U E F O C H WASHINGTON RUE LA BOETIE RUE DU FAUBOURG ST HONORE PLACE DE LA BLVD DE BLVD DES BLVD the sacred heart of Jesus (see pp226–7).
BLVD HAUSSMANN
RUE DE
RUE DU COLISEE
A V E N U E V IC T O R HUG O
ITALIENS
MIROMESNIL
RUE AUBER
CAPUCINES
A VEN UE K L E B E R
AVE BUGEAUD
MADELEINE
BLVD F LAND R I N RUE DE LONGCHAMP RUE COPERNIC AVENU E D’IENA AVENUE MARCEAU A V ENU E GE O R G E V RUE FRANCOIS 1ER D ROOSEVELT AVE FRANKLIN AVE DE MARIGNY RUE ROYALE RU E SAINT HON O RE 4 SEPTEMBRE R
RUE DU
RUE DE RICHELIEU
RUE
AVE MONTAIGNE
PLACE
REPUBLIQUE
VENDOME
CHURCHILL
AVENUE DES CHAMPS ELYSEES
RUE D. CASANOVA
RUE REAUMUR
AVE W
RUE DES PETITS
CHAMPS
RUE BEAUBOURG
CONCORDE
RUE CROIX DES
RUE E.
RUE DE LA POMPE AVENUE RAYMOND POINCARE
CHAILLOT AVENUE DU PRES WILSON QUAI D’ORSAY QUAI D’ORSAY PLACE DE LA JARDIN DES JARDIN DU R UE ST PETITS CHAMPS R U E DU LO U V R E MONTMARTRE MARCEL BLVD DE SEBASTOPOL RUE DE TURBIGO RUE DE BRETAGNE BLVD DU TEMPLE
R U E D U T E M P L E
AVE DE NEW YORK
RUE DE
TURBIGO
TUILERIES
AVENUE GEORGES MANDEL
R U E D E R I V O L I
BLVD VOLTAIRE
AVENUE PA UL DOUMER JARDINS DU QUAI BRANLY AVENUE RAPP L’UNIVERSITE BLVD DE LA TOUR MAUBOURG AVE DU M GALLIENI B LV D S T Musée CARROUSEL Musée du R U E D E R I V O L I RUE ST MARTIN Georges DES ARCHIVES RU
RUE DE
TROCADERO
H O NOR E
Musée
Louvre
QUAI DES TUILERIES
QUAI A. FRANCE
Centre
Picasso
Pompidou
Musée
Carnavalet
QUAI DU FRANCOIS MITTERRAND
RUE D E PASSY Eiffel RUE SAINT DOMINIQUE INVALIDES d'Orsay BAC QUAI VOLTAIRE QUAI DE LA MEGISSERIE RUE RUE DES FRANC S B OURGEOIS
RUE DE GRENELLE
AVENUE DU PRESIDENT KENNEDY A V E N U E D E S U F F R E N AVE DE LA MOTTE PICQUET AVE DUQUESNE Hôtel des D E RUE VANEAU V A R E N N E BLVD RASPAIL RUE DE RENNES BLVD RUE ST ANDRE ILE DE LA Notre- ST-LOUIS BLVD HENRI IV PLACE
Tour
RUE R AYNOUARD
PLACE
PASSY PARC DU RUE DE BELLECHASSE G E RM A I N RUE DU RUE D ES SAINTS PERES RUE JACOB RUE DE SEINE DAUPHINE Ste- RUE DE RIVOLI PLACE DES BLVD RICHARD LENOIR
AVENUE BOSQUET
R UE C L E R
VOSGES
MARAIS
Chapelle
CHAMP DE
R U E D E
QUAI DE
A VENUE DE L A BOURD O N NAIS
MARS
CITÉ
RUE
Invalides
L'HOTEL DE VILLE
ST ANTOINE
Seine
DE LA
DES A RTS
QUAI DES
Dame
AVE DE LOWENDAL
CELESTINS
ILE
B A B Y LO N E
R U E
RUE DE BOULAIN VILLIERS
AVE DE SEGUR
ST
PLACE
ST-SULPICE
R U E DE
QUAI DE LA
TOUR NO N
Musée National GERMAIN
RUE DU CDL
LEMOINE
RU E DE VA UG IRARD
LATIN
QUARTER
RUE D'ASSAS
AVE DE SUFFREN
JARDIN DU du Moyen Age RUE ST JACQUES Panthéon TOURNELLE QUAI ST BERNARD BOULEVARD BOURDON BASTILLE
RUE DE RENNES D
R U E D E V A U G I R A R BOULEVARD RUE D'ASSAS BOULEVARD SAINT MICHEL RUE G. LUSSAC RUE MOUF FETARD RUE LA CEPEDE R UE C U V I E R
LUXEMBOURG
Seine
R U E S A I N T J A C Q U E S
JARDIN DES
PLANTES
RUE B UFFON
BOU L E V ARD DE L ’HOPI TAL
BLVD DU MONTPARNASSE
BLVD E. QUINET
RUE MONGE
RUE GEOFFROY
SAINT HILAIRE
B LVD P ASTEUR
ROCHEREAU
MONTPARNASSE RA AVE DENFERT RUE C. BERNARD B L V D S T M A R C E L QUAI D’AUSTERLITZ
R UE AL AIN RUE FROIDEVAUX AURIOL
CIMETIÈRE DU S P A I L
PLACE
A V E N U E D U M A I N E
DENFERT
ROCHEREAU BOULEVARD VINCENT
PLACE
D'ITALIE
016-017_EW_Paris.indd 17 03/04/17 10:49 am

018-019_EW_Paris.indd 18 25/04/16 5:01 pm

INTRODUCING P ARIS | 19

THE HISTORY

OF PARIS



The Paris conquered by the Romans in years of the new century, revolutionary
52 BC was a small flood-prone fishing fervour had faded and the brilliant
village on the Ile de la Cité, inhabited by militarist Napoleon Bonaparte
the Parisii tribe. A Roman settle ment soon proclaimed himself Emperor of France
flourished and spread onto the Left Bank and pursued his ambition to make
of the Seine. The Franks succeeded the Paris the centre of the world.
Romans, named the city Paris and made Soon after the Revolution of 1848, a
it the centre of their kingdom. radical transforma tion of the city began.
During the Middle Ages, the city flourished Baron Haussmann’s grand urban scheme
as a religious centre and architectural replaced Paris’s medieval slums with elegant
masterpieces such as Sainte-Chapelle were avenues and boulevards. By the end of the
erect ed. It also thrived as a centre of century, the city was the driv ing force of
learning, enticing European scholars to its Western culture. This continued well into
great university, the Sorbonne. the 20th century, interrupted only by
Paris emerged during the Renais sance World War I and II and German military
and the Enlightenment as a great centre of occupation. Since then, the city has revived
culture and ideas, and under the rule of and expanded dramatically, as it strives to
Louis XIV, it also became a city of immense be at the heart of a unified Europe.
wealth and power. But rule by the monarch The following pages illustrate Paris’s
gave way to rule by the people in the history by providing snap shots of the
bloody Revolution of 1789. By the early significant periods in the city’s evolution.































A map of Paris (c. 1845)
Allegory of the Republic (1848) by Dominique Louis Papety



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20  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Kings and Emperors in Paris

Paris became the power base for the kings of
France at the beginning of the Capetian dynasty,
when Hugh Capet ascended the throne. 768–814
Charlemagne
Successive kings and emperors have left their
mark and many of the places mentioned in this
book have royal associations: Philippe-Auguste’s
fortress, the Louvre Palace, is now one of the
world’s great museums; Henri IV’s Pont Neuf
bridge links the Ile de la Cité with the two banks
of the Seine; and Napoleon conceived the Arc
de Triomphe to celebrate his military victories.
The end of the long line of kings came with the
overthrow of the monarchy in 1848, during
the reign of Louis-Philippe.
743–751 Childéric III 954–986 Lothaire
716–721 Chilpéric II
898–929 Charles III,
695–711 Childebert II the Simple 1137–80 Louis VII
566–584 Chilpéric I 674–691 Thierri 884–888 Charles II,
III the Fat 987–996 Hugh Capet
558–562 Clotaire I
655–668 879–882 Louis
447–458 Merovich Clotaire III III 1031–60
Henri I
458–482 628–637 840–877 1060–1108
Childéric I Dagobert I Charles I, the Philippe I
Bald
400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100
Merovingian Dynasty Carolingian Dynasty Capetian Dynasty
400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100
751–768 996–1031 Robert II,
Pépin the the Pious
Short
986–987 Louis V
721–737
Thierri IV 936–954 Louis IV,
the Foreigner
711–716
Dagobert III
888–898 Odo, Count of Paris
691–695 Clovis III
668–674 Childéric II 882–884 Carloman
637–655 Clovis II
584–628 Clotaire II 877–879 Louis II, the Stammerer
562–566 Caribert
511–558 Childebert I 814–840 Louis I, the Debonair












1108–37 Louis VI, the Fat
482–511 Clovis I





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THE HIST OR Y OF P ARIS  21
















1515–47 François I
1226–70 Louis IX
(St Louis) 1498–1515 Louis XII,
Father of his People
1774–93 Louis XVI
1483–98 Charles VIII
1422–61 Charles VII,
the Victorious
1137–80 Louis VII
1270–85 Philippe III, 1547–59 Henri II
the Bold
987–996 Hugh Capet
1285–1314 Philippe IV,
the Fair 1559–60 François II
1316–22
Philippe V 1610–43 Louis XIII
1060–1108 1328–50 1643–1715 Louis XIV, 1804–14
Philippe I the Sun King
Philippe VI Napoleon I
1100 1200 1300 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800
Capetian Dynasty Valois Dynasty Bourbon Dynasty
1100 1200 1300 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800
1380–1422 1560–74 1814–24
1314–16 Charles VI, Charles IX Louis XVIII
Louis X the Fool 1824–30
1574–89 Charles X
1364–80 Henri III
1322–28 Charles V, 1830–48
Charles IV, the Wise 1589–1610 Louis-Philippe I 1852–70
the Fair Henri IV Napoleon III
1350–64 Jean II,
the Good
1223–26 Louis VIII, the Lion
1180–1223 Philippe II, Auguste















1715–74
1461–83 Louis XI, the Spider Louis XV





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22  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Gallo-Roman Paris

Paris would not have existed without the Seine. The river
provided early peoples with the means to exploit the land,
forests, marshes and islands. Excavations have unearthed
canoes dating back to 4500 BC, well before a Celtic tribe,
known as the Parisii, settled there in the 3rd century BC, in an
area known as Lutetia. From 59 BC, the Romans undertook the
conquest of Gaul (France). Seven years later, Lutetia was sacked
by the Romans. They fortified and rebuilt it, especially the main Extent of the City
island (the Ile de la Cité) and the Left Bank of the Seine. 200 BC Today


Bronze-Age Harness
Everyday objects like harnesses
continued to be made of bronze
well into the Iron Age, which
began in Gaul around 900 BC.



Baths

Theatre






Forum
Fired-Clay Vase
Pale ceramics with
coloured decoration
were common in Gaul.
Iron Daggers Present-day
From the 2nd century BC, Rue Soufflot
short swords of iron replaced
long swords and were
sometimes decorated with
human and animal shapes.
Glass Beads
Iron-Age glass beads and
bracelets have been found Present-day Rue
on the Ile de la Cité. St-Jacques

Helmet worn
4500 BC by Gaulish
Early boatmen operate from warriors
the banks of the Seine
4500 400 BC 300 BC 200 BC 100 BC
300 BC 52 BC
Parisii tribe settle on Labienus, Caesar’s
the Ile de la Cité lieutenant, defeats the
Gauls. Romans rebuild the
Parisii gold coin minted Ile de la Cité, and create a
on the Ile de la Cité new town on the Left Bank




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THE HIST OR Y OF P ARIS  23

Roman Oil Lamp
The inhabitants of the Where to See
densely populated Ile de Gallo-Roman Paris
la Cité derived comfort
during the dark winter Since the mid-19th century,
months from the warmth excavations have yielded evidence
of central heating and the of the boundaries of the Roman
light from oil lamps. city which had as its central axes
the present-day Rue St-Jacques
and Rue Soufflot (in the 5th
Ile de la Cité Gallo-Roman arrondissement). Under the Parvis
Goddess de Notre-Dame (Place Jean-Paul II)
Found in the arena, in the Crypte Archéologique
this head dates (see pp86–7) the remains of Gallo-
from the 2nd Roman houses and Roman
century AD. ramparts can be seen. Other
Roman sites in Paris are the Arènes
de Lutèce (p167) and the baths at
the Musée de Cluny – Musée
National du Moyen Age (pp154–7).



Temple



The baths (thermae) at Cluny had
three huge rooms of water with
different temperatures.

Stage backdrop
Spectator seats








Arènes de Lutèce
This huge arena, built in the 1st–2nd
centuries AD, was used for circuses, theatrical
performances and gladiatorial combat.
Ring Flask
Lutetia in AD 200 From about 300 AD,
Paris, or Lutetia, was laid out in a grid pattern with this flask was found
on the Ile de la Cité.
bridges linking the Ile de la Cité and the Left Bank.
Roman floor 285 Barbarians 360 Julien, prefect of Gaul, is
mosaic from the advance, Lutetia proclaimed Emperor. Lutetia
Cluny baths swept by fire changes its name to Paris after
200 the Parisii
Romans add arena,
baths and villas
100 BC 0 BC 100 200 300 400
52 BC 250 451
Labienus, Caesar’s Early Christian Sainte Geneviève galvanizes the
lieutenant, defeats the martyr, St Denis, Parisians to repulse Attila the Hun
Gauls. Romans rebuild the beheaded in 485–508
Ile de la Cité, and create a Montmartre Clovis, leader of the Franks, defeats
new town on the Left Bank the Romans. Paris becomes Christian




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24  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Medieval Paris

Throughout the Middle Ages, strategically placed towns like Paris,
positioned at a river crossing, became important centres of
political power and learning. The Church played a crucial part in
intellectual and spiritual life. It provided the impetus for education
and for technological advances such as the drainage of land and
the digging of canals. The population was still confined mainly to
the Ile de la Cité and the Left Bank. When the marshes (marais)
were drained in the 12th century, the city was able to expand. Extent of the City
1300 Today



Sainte-Chapelle
The upper chapel
of this medieval
masterpiece (see
pp88–9) was
reserved for the
royal family.


The Ile de la Cité,
including the towers
of the Conciergerie
and Sainte-Chapelle,
features in the
pages for June.


Octagonal Table Drainage
Medieval manor houses had wooden allowed more
furniture like this trestle table. land to be
cultivated.







Weavers’ Window A rural life
Medieval craftsmen was led by most Parisians,
formed guilds and many who worked on the land.
church windows were The actual city only
dedicated to their crafts. occupied a tiny area.

512 725–732 845–862
Death of Sainte Geneviève. Muslims attack Gaul Normans attack Paris
She is buried next to Clovis

500 600 700 800 900

800
543 Charlemagne
Foundation of crowned Emperor Golden hand
St-Germain-des-Prés by the Pope reliquary of
Charlemagne




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THE HIST OR Y OF P ARIS  25


Notre-Dame The Monasteries
The great Gothic Monks of many
cathedrals took different orders
many years to build. lived in monasteries
Work continued on in Paris, especially
Notre-Dame from on the Left Bank of
1163 to 1334. the Seine.





University Seal
The University
of Paris was
founded
around 1150.
The Louvre of
Charles V, with
its defensive wall,
is seen here from
the Ile de la Cité.
The Nobility
From the mid-14th
century, dress was
considered to be a
mark of class; noble
ladies wore high,
pointed hats.

A Medieval Romance
It was in the cloisters of
Notre-Dame that the
romance between the
monk Pierre Abélard
and the young
Héloïse began.
Abélard was the
most original
theologian of the
12th century and
was hired as a tutor to the 17-year-old niece of a
The Months: June and October canon. A love affair soon developed between the
This illuminated prayer book and calendar, the Très teacher and his pupil. In his wrath, Héloïse’s uncle
Riches Heures (left and above), was made for the had the scholar castrated; Héloïse took refuge in a
Duc de Berri in 1416. It shows many Paris buildings. convent for the rest of her life.


1010–22 1167 1245 1380
Christians burn Les Halles food Work starts on Sainte-Chapelle The Bastille
Jews and market created 1253 fortress completed
heretics on the Right The Sorbonne opens
Bank of the Seine
900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400
1163 Work 1430
starts on
1150 Henry VI of England
1079 Paris University Notre-Dame 1226–70 crowned King of France
Birth of founded cathedral Reign of Louis after Joan of Arc fails
Pierre Abélard IX, St Louis to defend Paris
Joan of Arc



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26  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Renaissance Paris

At the end of the Hundred Years’ War with England, Paris was in a
terrible state. By the time the occupying English army had left in
1453, the city lay in ruins, with many houses burned. Louis XI
brought back prosperity and a new interest in art, architecture
and clothes. During the course of the 16th and 17th centuries,
French kings came under the spell of the Italian Renaissance.
Their architects made the first attempts at town planning, Extent of the City
creating elegant, uniform buildings and open urban spaces like 1590 Today
the magnificent Place Royale (the present Place des Vosges).












A Knight Preparing to Joust
The Place Royale was the setting
for jousting displays well into the
17th century.

Printing Press (1470) Jewel-
Religious tracts, mainly in Encrusted
Latin, were printed on the Pendant
first press at the Sorbonne. A sign of the
new prosperity,
jewels became
an important
part of dress.

Place Royale
Built by Henri IV in
1609, with grand
symmetrical houses
round an open, central space, this
Pont Notre-Dame was Paris’s first square. Home to
This bridge with its row of houses was built at the aristocracy, it was renamed
the start of the 15th century. The Pont Neuf Place des Vosges in 1800 (see pp98–9).
(1578–1607) was the first bridge without houses.


1453 End of the 1516 François I invites Leonardo
Hundred Years’ da Vinci to France. He brings the
War with England Mona Lisa with him
François I
1450 1460 1470 1480 1490 1500 1510 1520 1530


1469 First French printing
works starts operating at 1528 François I takes up
the Sorbonne residence in the Louvre





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THE HIST OR Y OF P ARIS  27


Where to See Renaissance
Paris Today
Besides the Place des Vosges, there are many
16th-Century Knife and Fork Set examples of the Renaissance in Paris. Churches
Ornate knife and fork sets were used in the dining include St-Etienne-du-Mont (p159), St-Eustache
rooms of the wealthy to carve joints of meat. Diners (p116), as well as the nave of St-Gervais–St-Protais
used hands or spoons for eating. (p103). Mansions such as the Hôtel de Bethune-Sully
(p99) and the Hôtel Carnavalet (pp96–7) have been
restored, and the staircases, courtyard and turrets of
Queen’s Pavilion Uniform houses with the Hôtel de Cluny (pp154 –5) date from 1485–96.
arcades flank the pavilion.











The rood screen of St-Etienne-du-Mont
(about 1520) is of outstanding delicacy.


Walnut Dresser (about 1545)
Elegant carved wooden
furniture decorated the
homes of the wealthy.
Nine symmetrical houses
line each side of the square.








Hyante and Climente
Toussaint Dubreuil
and other artists
took up Renaissance
mythological themes.
King’s Pavilion Duels were fought in the centre
of the square in the 17th century.
1609 Henri IV begins
1534 Ignatius of 1546 Work starts on 1559 Primitive street building Place Royale, later
Loyola founds the new Louvre palace; lanterns introduced; renamed Place des Vosges
Society of Jesus first stone quay built Louvre completed 1572
along Seine St Bartholomew’s Day 1589 Henri III assassinated
massacre of Protestants at St-Cloud, near Paris
1520 1530 1540 1550 1560 1570 1580 1590 1600 1610
1547 1589 Henri of Navarre is
1534 Founding of François I dies crowned Henri IV, 1610 Henri IV is
the Collège de France
1559 king of France assassinated by Ravaillac,
1528 François I takes up 1533 Henri II killed in a 1593 Henri IV converts from a religious fanatic
residence in the Louvre Foundation stone of Paris tournament Protestantism to Catholicism
original Hôtel de Ville laid



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28  INTRODUCING P ARIS

The Sun King’s Paris

The 17th century in France, which became known as Le Grand
Siècle (the great century), is epitomized by the glittering
extravagance of Louis XIV (the Sun King) and his court at Versailles.
In Paris, imposing buildings, squares, theatres and aristocratic
hôtels (mansions) were built. Beneath this brilliant surface lay the
absolute power of the monarch. By the end of Louis’ reign, the cost
of his extravagance and of waging almost continuous war with Extent of the City
France’s neighbours led to a decline in the monarchy. 1657 Today
The mansard roof, with its slopes at An open staircase rose
both sides and both ends, came to from the internal courtyard.
typify French roofs of this period.
Cross section of the
living quarters









The Gardens of Versailles
Louis XIV devoted a lot of time to
the gardens, which were designed
by André Le Nôtre.







The ground floor contained
Louis XIV as Jupiter the servants’ quarters.
On ascending the throne in
1661, Louis, depicted here as
Jupiter triumphant, ended the
civil wars that had been raging
since his childhood.
Chest of Drawers
This gilded piece was made by
André-Charles Boulle for the
Grand Trianon at Versailles.

1610 Louis Louis XIII 1622 Paris becomes Cardinal Mazarin 1643 Death of 1661 Louis XIV becomes
XIII’s accession an episcopal see Louis XIII. absolute monarch.
marks the 1631 Launch Regency under Enlargement of Château
start of Le 1624 Completion of La Gazette, control of Marie de Versailles begins
Grand Siècle of Tuileries Palace Paris’s first de Médicis and
newspaper Cardinal Mazarin
1610 1620 1630 1640 1650 1660
1629 Richelieu, Louis
1614 Final meeting of the XIII’s first minister, 1638 Birth of 1662 Colbert, Louis XIV’s
Estates Council (the main builds Palais-Royal Louis XIV finance minister, founds
legislative assembly) Gobelins tapestry works
before the Revolution 1627 Development
of the Ile St-Louis Weaving frame




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THE HIST OR Y OF P ARIS  29


Madame de Maintenon
When the queen died
in 1683, Louis married
Madame de
Maintenon, shown
here in a framed
painting by Caspar
Netscher.

Ceiling by Charles Le Brun
Court painter to Louis XIV, Le Brun
decorated many ceilings like this one
at the Hôtel Carnavalet (see p96). Decorated Fan
For special court fêtes, Louis
The Galerie d’Hercule XIV often stipulated that
with Le Brun ceiling women carry fans.



Where to See the Sun
King’s Paris
Many 17th-century mansions
such as the Hôtel Lambert still
exist in Paris, but not all are open
to the public. However, Hôtel des
Invalides (p191), the Dôme
Church (pp188–9), the Palais du
Luxembourg (p174) and Versailles
(pp250–55) give a magnifi cent
impression of the period.






Hôtel Lambert (1640) Formal Classical Garden
In the 17th century, the
aristocracy built luxurious
town houses with grand
staircases, courtyards,
formal gardens, coach
houses and stables.
Neptune Cup
Made from lapis lazuli with a silver
Neptune on top, this cup was part of Dôme Church
Louis’ vast collection of art objects.


1667 Louvre 1682 Court moves 1686
rebuilt and to Versailles where Le Procope,
observatory it stays until the Paris’s first café, 1715 Louis XIV dies
established Revolution is founded Statue of Louis XIV at
Musée Carnavalet
1660 1670 1680 1690 1700 1710
1692 Great famines
due to bad harvests
1670 The decree for and wars 1702
building Hôtel des Paris first divided into 20
Invalides is signed 1689 Pont Royal built arrondissements (districts)





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30  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Paris in the Age of Enlightenment

The Enlightenment, with its emphasis on scientific reason and a
critical approach to existing ideas and society, was centred on the
city of Paris. In contrast, nepotism and corruption were rife at Louis
XV’s court at Versailles. Meanwhile, the economy thrived, the arts
flourished as never before and intellectuals, such as Voltaire and
Rousseau, were renowned throughout Europe. In Paris, the
population rose to about 650,000; town planning was developed, Extent of the City
and the first accurate street map of the city appeared in 1787. 1720 Today














Nautical Instruments
As the science of navigation advanced,
scientists developed telescopes and
trigonometric instruments (used for
measuring longitude and latitude).

The auditorium
with 1,913 seats, was
the largest in Paris.









Comédie Française
18th-Century Wigs The Age of Enlightenment saw a burst of
These were not only a mark
of fashion but also a way of dramatic activity, and new theatres
indicating the wearer’s class opened. Among them was the Comédie
and importance. Française (see p130), still one of the most
prestigious theatres in the world.


1734 Fontaine des 1748 Montesquieu’s L’Esprit
Quatre Saisons built des Lois (an influential work
about different forms of
government) published
1720 1730 1740 1750
1751 First
1733 Voltaire’s Lettres volume of c.1760 Place de la
1722 City’s Philosophiques published Diderot’s Concorde, Panthéon
first fire brigade Encyclopedia and Ecole Militaire built
founded Fireman published





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THE HIST OR Y OF P ARIS  31


Where to See
Enlightenment Paris
The district around the Rue de
Madame de Pompadour Lille, the Rue de Varenne and
Although generally the Rue de Grenelle (p191) has
remembered as the many luxurious town houses, or
mistress of Louis XV, she hôtels, which were built by the
was renowned as a patron aristocracy during the first half of
of the arts and had great the 18th century. Memorabilia
political influence. from the lives of the great
intellectuals Voltaire and Jean-
Chocolate Pot Jacques Rousseau are in the
By the 18th century, Musée Carnavalet (pp96–7),
bourgeois families could along with 18th-century interior
afford tobacco, tea, designs and paintings. The
chocolate and coffee from imposing Hôtel des Monnaies
Asia and the New World. (royal mint), which houses the
Musée de la Monnaie (p143), is
a fine example of the rational
Vestibule with Neo-Classicism of architecture
painted ceiling during the Enlightenment.




Portico with Doric
columns





Churches were built throughout
the Enlightenment. St-Sulpice
(p174) was completed in 1776.






The Catacombs
These were set up in
1786 as a more
hygienic alternative Le Procope (p142) is the oldest
to Paris’s cemeteries café in Paris. It was frequented
(see p181). by Voltaire and Rousseau.



1764 Madame de 1778 France 1785 David
Pompadour dies 1774 Louis XV, supports paints the
great grandson of American Oath of the
1757 First oil independence Horatii
street lamps Louis XIV, dies
1750 1760 1770 1780
Rousseau, philosopher and
c.1760 Place de la 1762 Rousseau’s writer, believed that humans 1782 First 1783 Montgolfier
Concorde, Panthéon Emile and the were naturally good and had pavements built, brothers make
and Ecole Militaire built Social Contract been corrupted by society. in the Place du the first hot-air
published Théâtre Français balloon ascent





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32  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Paris During the Revolution

In 1789, most Parisians were still living in squalor and poverty, as
they had since the Middle Ages. Rising inflation and opposition
to Louis XVI culminated in the storming of the Bastille, the king’s
prison; the Republic was founded three years later. However, the
Terror soon followed, when those suspected of betraying the
Revolution were executed without trial: more than 60,000
people lost their lives. The bloody excesses of Robespierre, the Extent of the City
zealous revolutionary, led to his overthrow and a new 1796 Today
government, the Directory, was set up in 1795.
The prison turrets
were set alight.
Declaration of the
Rights of Man and The French
the Citizen guards, who were
The Enlightenment on the side of the
ideals of equality revolutionaries,
and human dignity arrived late in the
were enshrined in afternoon with
the Declaration. This two cannons.
illustration is the
preface to the 1791
Constitution.



Paper Money
Bonds, called assignats,
were used to fund the
Revolution from 1790–93.
Drawbridge
Republican Calendar
The revolutionaries believed that the
world was starting again, so they
abolished the existing church
calendar and took 22 September
1792, the day the Republic was
declared, as the first day of the new
era. The Republican calendar had 12
equal months, each subdivided into
three ten-day periods, with the
remaining five days of each year set
aside for public holidays. All the
months of the year were given poetic A coloured engraving by Tresca
names which linked them to nature showing Ventôse, the windy month
and the seasons, such as fog, snow, (19 Feb–20 Mar) from the new
seed-time, flowers and harvest. Republican calendar


4 Aug Abolition 26 Aug Declaration of the 20 Jun Invasion
of feudalism Rights of Man and the Citizen of the Tuileries
14 Jul Fall of 17 Sep Law of Suspects
the Bastille passed: the Terror begins 10 Aug The storming
of the Tuileries
1789 1790 1791 1792
Cartoon on the three Lafayette, Commander
Estates: the clergy, the of the National Guard, 17 Jul Champ de
nobility and the takes his oath to the Mars massacre 25 Apr
awakening populace Constitution La Marseillaise
composed
5 May The Estates Council meets 14 Jul Fête de la Fédération




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THE HIST OR Y OF P ARIS  33

“Patriotic” Chair The Sans Culottes
The back of this By 1792, the wearing of
wooden chair is trousers instead of
topped by red breeches (culottes) was a
bonnets, symbol of political symbol of Paris’s
revolutionary politics. artisans and shopkeepers.















La Marseillaise
The revolutionaries’
marching song is now
the national anthem.
The dead and
wounded totalled 171
by the end of the day.


Wallpaper
Commemorative
Coin tower wallpaper was
produced to celebrate
the Revolution.
Guillotine
Great court This was used for
the first time in
Well court France in April 1792.

Storming of the Bastille
The Bastille was overrun on
14 July 1789 and the seven
prisoners held there released.
The defenders (32 Swiss guards,
82 wounded soldiers and the
governor) were massacred.

20 Jun Invasion 21 Jan Execution 16 Oct Execution of
of the Tuileries of Louis XVI Marie-Antoinette 19 Nov Jacobin Club
5 Apr Execution (a revolutionary 22 Aug New
10 Aug Autumn Robespierre of Danton and constitution:
Overthrow in control of Committee 24 Nov supporters pressure group) closed the Directory
of Louis XVI of Public Safety Churches closed
1792 1793 1794 1795
20 Sep Battle 13 Jul
of Valmy Assassination of Robespierre,
25 Apr Marat, founder of revolutionary and
La Marseillaise 2–6 Sep L’Ami du Peuple, 27 Jul Execution architect of the Terror
composed September the revolutionary of Robespierre
massacres newspaper




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34  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Napoleonic Paris

Napoleon Bonaparte was the most brilliant general in the French
army. The instability of the new government after the Revolution
gave him the chance to seize power, and in November 1799,
he installed himself in the Tuileries Palace as First Consul. He
crowned himself Emperor in May 1804. Napoleon established a
centralized administration and a code of laws, reformed France’s
educational system and set out to make Paris the most beautiful Extent of the City
city in the world. The city was endowed with grand monuments 1810 Today
and embellished with the spoils of conquest. His power was Ladies-in-Waiting
always fragile and dependent on incessant wars. In March hold Josephine’s train.
1814, Prussian, Austrian and Russian armies invaded Paris
and Napoleon fled to Elba. He returned to Paris in 1815
but was defeated at Waterloo and died in exile in 1821.

Château de Malmaison
This was the favourite
home of Josephine,
Napoleon’s first wife.









Opaline-Glass
Clock
The decoration
on this clock
echoed the
fashion for
draperies.
Eagle’s Flight
Elephant Project Napoleon’s flight
This monument to Elba in 1814
was planned for was satirized in
the centre of the this cartoon.
Place de la Bastille.






1799 Napoleon 1800 Banque de 1809 Napoleon 1815 Waterloo; second
seizes power France founded divorces Josephine abdication of Napoleon.
1797 Battle and marries Restoration of the monarchy
of Rivoli 1802 Legion of Marie-Louise
Honour established
1800 1805 1810 1815 1820
1804 Napoleon 1806 Arc de 1814 1821
Napoleon
crowned Triomphe commissioned Napoleon dies
1800 Napoleon abdicates
returns from Egypt 1812 Russian campaign Napoleon’s
on his ship L’Orient ends in defeat death mask




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THE HIST OR Y OF P ARIS  35


Bronze Table Top
Inlaid with Napoleon’s
portrait, this table marks
the victory at Austerlitz.
Josephine kneels
before Napoleon.


Napoleon holds the crown
for his Empress, Josephine. Russian Cossacks in the Palais-Royal
After Napoleon’s defeat and flight in 1814,
Paris suffered the humiliation of being
occupied by foreign troops, including
Austrians, Prussians and Russians.

The Pope makes the
sign of the cross.


Where to See
Napoleonic Paris
Many of the grand monuments
Napoleon planned for Paris were never
built, but two triumphal arches, the Arc
de Triomphe (pp212–13) and Arc de
Triomphe du Carrousel (p122), were a
major part of his legacy. La Madeleine
church (p218) was also inaugurat ed in
his reign and much of the Louvre was
rebuilt (pp122–3). Examples of the
Empire style can be seen at Malmaison
(p248) and at the Carnavalet (pp96–7).


Napoleon’s Coronation
Napoleon’s rather dramatic
crowning took place in 1804.
In this recreation by J L David,
the Pope, summoned to
Notre-Dame, looks on as
Napoleon crowns his Empress
just before crowning himself.
The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel was
The Empress erected in 1806 and crowned with the
Josephine was divorced horses looted from St Mark’s, Venice.
by Napoleon in 1809.

1842 First railway line
between Paris and
St-Germain-en-Laye opens

1820 1825 1830 1835 1840 1845
1821
Napoleon
dies
1830 Revolution in Paris 1831 Victor Hugo’s Notre- 1840 Reburial of
and advent of Dame de Paris published. Napoleon at
constitutional monarchy Cholera epidemic hits Paris Les Invalides Napoleon’s tomb




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36  INTRODUCING P ARIS

The Grand Transformation

In 1848, Paris saw a second revolution which brought down
the recently restored monarchy. In the uncertainties that
followed, Napoleon’s nephew assumed power in the same
way as his uncle before him – by a coup d’état. He proclaimed
himself Napoleon III in 1851. Under his rule, Paris was
transformed into the most magnificent city in Europe. He
entrusted the task of modernization to Baron Haussmann. Extent of the City
Haussmann demolished the crowded, unsanitary streets of 1859 Today
the medieval city and created a well-ordered capital within a
geometrical grid of avenues and boulevards. Neighbouring
districts such as Auteuil were annexed, creating the suburbs.
Boulevard des Italiens
This tree-lined avenue, A V E D E S C H A M P S - E L Y S E E S
painted by Edmond
Georges Grandjean A V E D E F R I E D L A N D
(1889), was one of the
most fashionable of
the new boulevards. A V E H O C H E




Twelve avenues
formed a star (étoile).
A V E D E W A G R A M
E
P
L
L
I
A
E D E L ’ E T
C O
A V E M A C - M A H O N A V
E

E

Laying the Sewers A V E C A R N O T D
L
This engraving from 1861 shows the early
A
work for laying the sewer system (see p192) G
R
from La Villette to Les Halles. Most of the A
system was the work of the engineer Belgrand. Grand mansions N
were built around E
D
the Arc de
A
Circular Hoarding Triomphe R
Distinctive hoardings advertised between 1860 M
E
opera and theatre performances. and 1868. E
1851 Napoleon III declares
the Second Empire Viewing the exhibits at
the World Exhibition
1852 Haussmann begins
massive town-planning schemes 1855 World Exhibition
1850 1852 1854 1856 1858 1860
1853 Baltard starts work on
new Les Halles buildings 1857 The poet Baudelaire
prosecuted for obscenity
20 centimes stamp for The Flowers of Evil
showing Napoleon III
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THE HIST OR Y OF P ARIS  37


Place de l’Etoile Drinking Fountain
The new scheme for the centre of Paris Fields In the 1870s, 50 fountains
included redesigning the area at one end were erected in poor areas of
of the Champs-Elysées (Elysian Fields). Avenue des Paris through the generosity
Haussmann created a star of 12 broad Champs-Elysées of the English francophile
avenues around the new Arc de Triomphe. Richard Wallace.
(The inset map shows the
area as it was in 1790.)

Arc de Triomphe
Site of Arc de
Triomphe




A V E M A R C E A U A V E D ’ I E N A




A V E D E F R I E D L A N D
A V E D E S C H A M P S - E L Y S E E S
A V E H O C H E


A V E K L E B E R
Bois de Boulogne
E Given to the city in 1852 by Napoleon
P
L
L
I III, this park became a popular place
A
E D E L ’ E T for walking and riding (see p247).
C O
A V E M A C - M A H O N A V A V E V I C T O R H U G O Baron Haussmann
Lawyer by training and civil
A V E C A R N O T D A V E F O C H servant by profession, Georges-
E

Eugène Haussmann (1809–
E

91) was appointed Prefect
L
A
of the Seine by Napoleon

G
III. For 17 years, he was in
R
charge of urban planning.
A
With the best architects and engineers of the day,
N
D
he planned a new city, improved the water supply
E

and sewerage, and created beautiful parks.
A
R
Some avenues
M
were named after
E
French generals.
E
1861 Garnier
designs new 1863 The nudity in Manet’s 1867 World 1870 Napoleon’s
Opera House Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe causes Exhibition wife, Eugénie, flees
a scandal and is rejected by Paris at threat of war
the Academy (see p147)
1858 1860 1862 1864 1866 1868
1863 Crédit Lyonnais
bank established
1868 Press 1870 Start of
1862 Victor Hugo’s epic novel of censorship relaxed Franco-Prussian War
Paris’s poor, Les Misérables, published
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38  INTRODUCING P ARIS

The Belle Epoque

The Franco-Prussian War culminated in the terrible Siege
of Paris. When peace came in 1871, it fell to the new
government, the Third Republic, to bring about economic
recovery. From about 1890 life was transformed: the motor-
car, aeroplane, cinema, telephone and gramophone all
contributed to the enjoyment of life and the Belle Epoque
(beautiful age) was born. Paris became a glittering city where Extent of the City
the new style, Art Nouveau, decorated buildings and objects. 1895 Today
The paintings of the Impressionists, such as Renoir, reflected
the joie de vivre of the times, while later those of Matisse, The interior was arranged
as tiers of galleries around
Braque and Picasso heralded the modern movement in art. a central grand staircase.
Cabaret Poster Electricity illuminated
Toulouse-Lautrec’s the window displays.
posters immor-
talized the singers
and dancers of the
cafés and cabaret
clubs of Mont martre,
where artists and
writers congregated
in the 1890s.













Windows facing
on to the Boulevard
Haussmann displayed
the goods on offer.


Central Hall of the Grand Palais The Naughty Nineties
The Grand Palais (p210) was built to The Lumière brothers captured
house two huge exhibitions of French the daring negligée fashions of
painting and sculpture at the Universal the 1890s in the first moving
Exhibition of 1900. images of the cinematograph.

1891 First Metro
1871 Third 1872 Monet paints first 1885 Louis Pasteur station opens
Republic Impressionist picture: discovers rabies vaccine
established Impression: Sunrise 1889 Eiffel
Tower built
1870 1875 1880 1885 1890
Zoo animals were
shot to feed the Entrance
hungry (see p227) ticket to the
exhibition
1889 Great
1870 Siege of Paris
Louis Pasteur Exhibition



038-039_EW_Paris.indd 38 03/04/17 10:49 am
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THE HIST OR Y OF P ARIS  39


Citroën 5CV Where to See the
France led the world in
the early development of Belle Epoque
the motorcar. By 1900, the Art Nouveau can be seen
Citroën began to be seen in monumental buildings
on the streets of Paris, and like the Grand Palais and
long-distance motor Petit Palais (p210), while
racing was popular. the Galeries Lafayette (p313)
The glass dome has beautiful Belle Epoque
could be seen from interiors. The Musée d’Orsay
all parts of the store. (pp146–9) has many objects
from this period.
Moulin Rouge (1890)
The “red windmill” (see p230)
recalled the vineyards and
market gardens of old
Montmartre, its bucolic
atmosphere a magnet for
bohemian Parisians.





The entrance to the metro at
Porte Dauphine was the work of
leading Art Nouveau designer
Hector Guimard (p148).







Galeries Lafayette (1906)
This beautiful department store,
with its dome a riot of coloured
glass and wrought ironwork,
was a sign of the new prosperity.



Art Nouveau Cash Till The doorway of No. 29 Avenue
Even ordinary objects like Rapp (p193), in the Eiffel Tower
this cash till were quarter, is a fine example of
beautified by the new style. Art Nouveau.

Captain Dreyfus was publicly 1907 Picasso 1913 Proust
humiliated for selling secrets to the paints Les publishes first volume
Prussians. He was later found innocent.
1894–1906 Demoiselles of Remembrance
Dreyfus affair d’Avignon of Things Past
1890 1895 1900 1905 1910
1898 Pierre and Marie 1911
Curie discover radium Diaghilev
brings the
1909 Blériot flies across Russian
1895 Lumière brothers the English Channel ballet
introduce cinematography to Paris




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40  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Avant-Garde Paris

From the 1920s to the 1940s, Paris became a mecca for artists,
musicians, writers and film-makers. The city was alive with new
movements such as Cubism and Surrealism, represented by
Cézanne, Picasso, Braque, Man Ray and Duchamp. Many new
trends came from the USA, as writers and musicians, including
Ernest Hemingway, Gertrude Stein and Sidney Bechet, took up
residence in Paris. In architecture, the geometric shapes created Extent of the City
by Le Corbusier changed the face of the modern building. 1940 Today

Napoleon by Abel Gance
Paris has always been a
city for film-makers. In
1927, Abel Gance made an
innovative movie about
Napoleon, using triple
screens and wide-
angle lenses.




The old Trocadéro was changed
to the Palais de Chaillot (see p202)
for the World Exhibition of 1937.
Josephine Baker
Arriving in Paris in 1925, the
outlandish dancer catapulted
to fame in “La Revue Nègre”
wearing nothing but feathers.
Living space was made
into a picture gallery.



Stilts
supported the
concrete shell.
Sidney Bechet
In the 1930s and 1940s, the La Roche Villa by Le Corbusier
jazz clubs of Paris resounded Made from concrete and steel, with
to the swing music of black straight lines, horizontal windows and a
musicians such as the
saxophonist Sidney Bechet. flat roof, this house (1923–5) epitomized
the new style (see pp246–7).
1924 Olympic 1925 Art Deco 1931
1919 Treaty of Games held in Paris Colonial
Versailles signed in style first seen at Exhibition
the Hall of Mirrors 1924 André Breton the Exposition des
Arts Décoratifs
publishes Surrealist
Manifesto
1914 1916 1918 1920 1922 1924 1926 1928
1914–18 World War I. Paris An eternal flame for
is under threat of German 1920 Interment of the Unknown Soldier
attack, saved by the Battle the Unknown Soldier burns under the Arc
of the Marne. A shell hits World War I de Triomphe
St-Gervais-St-Protais. soldier in uniform




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THE HIST OR Y OF P ARIS  41


Fashion in the 1940s
After World War II, the
classic look for men and
women was reminiscent
of military uniforms.





Occupied Paris
Paris was under occupation for
most of World War II. The Eiffel
Tower was a favourite spot for
Airmail Poster German soldiers, and many of
Airmail routes the bourgeois mansions were
developed during the seized for German officers. The
1930s, especially to beautiful hotel Le Meurice (p284)
French North Africa. served as the headquarters for
General von Choltitz, the last
commander of Nazi-occupied
The roof was designed Paris. The Musée de l’Armée (p190),
as a garden terrace. in the Hôtel des Invalides, has a
good display of war-time items,
while the Musée de l’Ordre de la
The bedroom was Libération (p190) has two galleries
above the dining room. devoted to the Free French and
their fearless leader, Charles de
The kitchen was Gaulle. For places of quiet
built at the back contemplation, visit the Paris
with a sloping Mémorial des Martyrs de la
glass roof. Déportation behind Notre-Dame
(p86), dedicated to the 200,000
people deported from France to
the Nazi concentration camps, or
the Mémorial de la Shoah (p103),
with its eternal flame dedicated
to the unknown Jewish martyr.

The garage was
built into the
ground floor.


Windows were Claudine in Paris by Colette
arranged in a The Claudine series of novels,
horizontal strip. written by Colette Willy, known
simply as “Colette”, were
extremely popular in the 1930s.

1931 A visitor to the
Colonial exhibition in 1937 Picasso paints 1940 World War II:
Exhibition colonial dress Guernica in protest at Paris bombed and
the Spanish Civil War occupied by Nazis
1928 1930 1932 1934 1936 1938 1940 1942
Symbol of Free French
1935 The talented superimposed on the
Edith Piaf discov- victory sign
1934 Riots and strikes in ered singing in 1937 Palais de Aug 1944
response to the Depression the Paris streets Chaillot built Liberation of Paris





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42  INTRODUCING P ARIS

The Modern City

In 1962, a renovation programme began, and run-down districts
like the Marais were restored. This project continued with François
Mitterrand’s Grands Travaux (great works) scheme. Access was
improved to historical monuments and art collections, such as the
Musée du Louvre and Musée d’Orsay. The scheme produced modern
monuments such as the Opéra National de Paris Bastille (p102), the
Cité des Sciences (pp240–41) and the Bibliothèque Nationale de Extent of the City
France (p244). These, and the boldly modern La Défense (p248), Stade 1959 Today
de France, Musée du quai Branly (pp194–5), Promenade des Berges
de la Seine (p69), Philarmonie de Paris (p239) and Fondation Louis
Vuitton (p247), have enriched Paris with truly innovative architecture.
La Grande Arche is taller and
wider than Notre-Dame and forms
part of an axis linking the Arc de
Triomphe and the Louvre Pyramid.











Christo’s Pont Neuf
To create a work of art, the Bulgarian-born
artist Christo wrapped Paris’s oldest bridge,
the Pont Neuf, in fabric in 1985.
Simone de Beauvoir
Influential philosopher
and life-long companion
of J-P Sartre, de Beauvoir
fought for the liberation
of women in the 1950s.
Shopping centre

Louvre Pyramid (1989)
I M Pei’s futuristic glass
pyramid forms the entrance
to the Louvre, providing a
striking contrast to the classical
façade of the museum.
1977 Pompidou 1980
1962 André Malraux, Minister of Ducting at Centre opens. Jacques Thousands
Culture, begins renovation the Pompidou Chirac is installed as greet Pope
programme of run-down Centre first elected Mayor of John-Paul II on
districts and monuments Paris since 1871 his official visit
1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985
1989
1958 Establishment 1964 1968 Student
of Fifth Republic Reorganization riots and 1973 Construction of Montparnasse Bicentenary
with de Gaulle as of the Ile workers Tower and the Périphérique (ring road) celebrations
President de France strikes in the 1969 Les Halles market 1985 Christo wraps to mark the
Latin Quarter transfers to Rungis Pont Neuf French
President de Gaulle Revolution



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THE HIST OR Y OF P ARIS  43


Chanel Designs
Paris is the centre of the
fashion world with
important shows each year.


Forum Les Halles
The undulating glass and steel
Canopy, inaugurated in 2016, is
part of a wider project to revitalize
the old district of Les Halles.



The Pompidou Centre
The nation’s collection of modern
art is housed here in this popular
building (see pp110–13).

The Tour Areva Opéra National de Paris Bastille
is one of the (1989)
iconic skyscrapers Its opening marked the bicentenary
in La Défense. of the fall of the Bastille.


Students at the Barricades
In May 1968, Paris saw a revolution of a
kind. The Latin Quarter was taken over by
students and workers. What began as a
protest against the war in Vietnam spread
to other issues and became an expression
of discontent with the government.
President de Gaulle rode out the storm,
but his prestige was severely damaged.





The Défense
Palace, housing
the centre for
industry, is the
oldest tower.
La Défense
This enormous business centre was started
on the edge of Paris in 1958. In excess of Rioting students clash with police
150,000 people work here.

1994 Eurostar inaugurated: Paris to 2012
London in 3 hours 2007 The Socialist 2015 In January, Islamist gunmen shoot
2002 The Euro Vélib’, a François dead 17 people, most of them staff at the
2001 Bertrand replaces the Franc public rental Hollande satfirical magazine Charlie Hebdo.
Delanoe elected as exclusive legal bike scheme, elected In September, France launches air strikes
first socialist mayor tender is launched President against Islamic State Group targets in Syria
1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2025
1989 2016 France hosts the UEFA
Bicentenary 1998 France hosts – and 2007 Centre-right European Football Championship
celebrations wins – the 1998 football Nicolas Sarkozy
to mark the World Cup tournament elected president 2015 In November, a series of terror attacks
French Victorious French football team holding launched by Islamic State leaves 130 dead
Revolution aloft the World Cup trophy in Paris 2014 Anne Hidalgo elected first female mayor




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INTRODUCING P ARIS  45

PARIS AT A GLANCE

There are nearly 300 places of interest pp194–5). To help make the most of your
described in the Area by Area section of this stay, the following 20 pages are a time-
book. A broad range of sights is covered, saving guide to the best Paris has to offer.
from the ancient Conciergerie and its grisly Museums and galleries, historic churches,
associations with the guillotine (see p87) to spacious parks, gardens and squares are all
the modern Opéra National de Paris Bastille described. There is also a guide to Paris’s
(see p102); and from the oldest house in famous personalities. Each sight has a cross
Paris, No. 51 Rue de Montmorency (see p116), reference to its own full entry. Below are
to the exotic Musée du quai Branly (see the top tourist attractions to start you off.


Paris’s Top Tourist Attractions











Sacré-Coeur Sainte-Chapelle Palace of Versailles
See pp226–7. See pp88–9. See pp250–55.









Pompidou Centre Jardin du Luxembourg
See pp110–13. See p174.









Musée du Louvre Musée d’Orsay Eiffel Tower
See pp122–9. See pp146–9. See pp196–7.










Bois de Boulogne Notre-Dame Arc de Triomphe
See p247. See pp82–5. See pp212–13.
Interior of Notre-Dame Cathedral



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46  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Remarkable Parisians Political Leaders

By virtue of its strategic position on the Seine, Paris has long Hugh Capet, first King of the
been the economic, political and artistic hub of France. Over Franks, made Paris his capital
the centuries, many prominent and influential figures from in 987. Philippe Auguste (1165–
other parts of the country and abroad have come to the city 1223) built the Louvre fortress
and encircled the city with an
to absorb her unique spirit. In return, they have left their impressive wall. Henri IV (1553–
mark: artists have brought new movements; politicians new 1610) was the first king to set
schools of thought; musicians, film-makers and fashion about making Paris a worthy
designers new trends; and architects a new environment. capital, building the Pont Neuf
and Place des Vosges. Cardinal
Richelieu (1585–1642), the power
behind Louis XIII, created the
Artists Académie Française and the
In the early 18th century, Palais-Royal (see p130). Louis XIV
Jean-Antoine Watteau (1684– (1638–1715) continued the
1721) took the inspiration for process. Napoleon modernized
his paintings from the Paris Paris, building bridges and
theatre. Half a century later, canals, though it was his nephew
Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1732– Napoleon III who gave Paris its
1806), popular painter of the distinctive grands boulevards.
Rococo, lived and died here, Général Charles de Gaulle (1890–
financially ruined by the 1970), founder of the Fifth
Revolution. Later, Paris became Republic, gave France back the
the cradle of Impressionism. Its prestige it had lost in the war. The
founders Claude Monet (1840– current direction of Paris is largely
1926), Pierre-Auguste Renoir in the hands of its first female
(1841–1919) and Alfred Sisley Sacré-Coeur by Utrillo (1934) mayor, Anne Hidalgo (b.1959).
(1839–99) met in a Paris studio.
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec The Paris School eventually
(1864–1901) drank and painted moved to Montparnasse, Films and Film-Makers
in Montmartre, where Maurice home to sculptors Auguste Paris has always been at the
Utrillo (1883–1955) was born Rodin (1840–1917), Constantin heart of French cinema. The
and lived all his life. Utrillo Brancusi (1876–1957) and prewar and immediate post-
painted many local scenes and Ossip Zadkine (1890–1967). war classics were usually made
was one of the 20th century’s Contemporary artists who on the sets of the Boulogne
greatest painters of cityscapes. have developed international and Joinville studios, where
In 1907, Pablo Picasso (1881– reputations include Christian whole areas of the city were
1973) painted the seminal Boltanski (b.1944), known reconstructed. Jean-Luc Godard
work Les Demoiselles d’Avignon for his large mise en scène and other New Wave directors
at the Bateau-Lavoir (see p230), installations, video artist preferred to shoot outdoors.
where Georges Braque (1882– Pierre Huyghe (b.1962) Godard’s A Bout de Souffle (1960),
1963), Amedeo Modigliani and Sophie Calle (b.1953), with Jean-Paul Belmondo and
(1884–1920) and Marc Chagall renowned for her photographic Jean Seberg, was filmed in and
(1887–1985) also lived. and film installations. around the Champs-Elysées.
Catherine Deneuve (b.1943)
made her name in Luis
Buñuel’s Belle du Jour (1967).
In the 1980s came the
cinéma du look, epitomized
by visually stylish films such as
Les Amants du Pont Neuf (1991),
starring Juliette Binoche. A
number of recent film directors
have dwelt on darker, grittier
themes. Mathieu Kassovitz’s
La Haine (1995), for example,
deals with racism and violence
in the banlieues, while Céline
Sciamma’s Bande de Filles (2014)
focuses on black teenagers
coming of age in a deprived
Portrait of Cardinal Richelieu by Philippe de Champaigne (about 1635) Paris suburb.




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P ARIS A T A GLANCE  47


Musicians
Jean-Philippe Rameau (1683–
1764), organist and pioneer of
harmony, is associated with
St-Eustache (see p116). Hector
Berlioz (1803–69) had his Te
Deum first performed there
in 1855. A great dynasty of The Grand Trianon at Versailles, built by Jules Hardouin-Mansart in 1687
organists, the Couperins,
gave recitals in St-Gervais– Haussmann (1809–91) gave the Beach welcomed James Joyce
St-Protais (see p103). city its boulevards (see pp36–7). (1882–1941) to her bookshop
The stage of the Opéra (see Gustave Eiffel (1832–1923) built on Rue de l’Odéon. Ernest
p219) has seen many talents, his tower in 1889. A century Hemingway (1899–1961) and
but audiences have not always later, I M Pei added the Louvre’s F Scott Fitzgerald (1896–1940)
been appreciative. Carmen by glass pyramid (see p129); Jean wrote novels in Montparnasse.
George Bizet (1838–75) Nouvel created the Institut du Paris, especially at the time of
was booed, as was Pelléas Monde Arabe (see pp166–7), the Nazi occupation during
et Mélisande by Claude the Musée du quai Branly (see World War II, is the setting of a
Debussy (1862–1918). pp194–5) and the Philharmonie number of novels by Patrick
Olivier Messiaen (1908–91) de Paris (see p239); while Modiano, who was awarded the
was organist at the Eglise de Dominique Perrault was Nobel Prize for Literature in 2014.
la Sainte Trinité for 60 years. behind the Bibliothèque
The composer and conductor Nationale de France (see p244). Scientists
Pierre Boulez (1925–2016)
founded the experimental Antoine Lavoisier (1743–94),
music institute IRCAM (see p114). “the father of modern chemistry”,
The diminutive chanteuse first showed that water is a
Edith Piaf (1915–63) began combination of oxygen and
singing in the streets of Paris hydrogen; his instruments
and then went on to tour the can be seen at the Musée des
world. During the 1920s, jazz Arts et Metiers (see p105).
violinist Stéphane Grapelli and Paris has a Quartier Pasteur,
guitarist Django Reinhardt a Boulevard Pasteur, a Pasteur
pioneered gypsy jazz. Later, Metro and the world-famous
Serge Gainsbourg influenced Institut Pasteur (see pp180–81),
a generation of pop musicians, all in honour of Louis Pasteur
and rock singer Johnny Halliday (1822–95), the great French
made his mark as the “French chemist and biologist.
Elvis”. France’s strong Proust by J-E Blanche (about 1910) Discoverers of radium Pierre
connections with francophone (1859–1906) and Marie Curie
West Africa mean that many Writers (1867–1934) also worked in Paris.
internationally known West
African artists, such as Salif French has been dubbed
Keita, Baaba Maal, Rokia Traoré “the language of Molière”, Fashion Designers
and Angélique Kidjo, first made after playwright Jean-Baptiste The world capital of fashion
their name in Paris and still Poquelin, alias Molière (1622– boasts many famous designers.
attract a big following. 73), who helped create the The iconic Coco Chanel (1883–
Comédie-Française, now 1971) revolutionized women’s
situated near his home in Rue fashion in the 1920s, creating
Architects Richelieu. On the Left Bank, the more casual clothes for women.
Gothic, Classical, Baroque and Odéon Théâtre de l’Europe was Jeanne Lanvin (1867–1946),
Modernist – all styles co-exist home to playwright Jean Racine founder of Lanvin, the oldest
in Paris. The most brilliant (1639–99). It is near the statue haute couture house still in
medieval architect was Pierre of Denis Diderot (1713–84), who existence, created fabulous
de Montreuil, who built Notre- published his L’Encyclopédie designs and the legendary
Dame and Sainte-Chapelle. between 1751 and 1776. Marcel perfume Arpège. Christian
Louis Le Vau (1612–70) and Proust (1871–1922), author of Dior (1905–57) turned fashion
Jules Hardouin-Mansart (1646– the 13-volume Remembrance upside down with his postwar
1708) designed Versailles (see of Things Past, lived on the “New Look”, while Yves Saint-
pp250–55). Jacques-Ange Boulevard Haussmann. To the Laurent (1936–2008) was
Gabriel (1698–1782) built the existentialists, the district of equally influential and made
Petit Trianon (see p251) and St-Germain was the only place prêt-à-porter, or ready-to-wear,
Place de la Concorde (see p133). to be (see pp138–9). Here, Sylvia fashion popular.




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48  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Paris’s Best: Places of Worship

The Catholic Church has long been the bastion of Parisian
society and many of the city’s fine churches are worth
visiting. Architectural styles vary and the interiors are
often spec tacular. Most churches are open during
the day and many have services at regular intervals.
Paris’s tradition of church music is still evident. You
can spend an evening enjoying the interiors while
listening to an organ recital or classical concert (see
p338). A more detailed overview of Paris’s places of
worship is on pages 50–51.
La Madeleine
Built in the style of a Greco-
Roman temple, this church is
known for its fine sculptures.


0 kilometres 1
0 miles 0.5
Champs-Elysées

Chaillot Quarter Tuileries
Quarter

R i v e r S e i n e


Invalides and Eiffel
Tower Quarter St-Germain-
des-Prés




Dôme Church
This memorial to the military
engineer Vauban lies in the
Dôme Church, where Napoleon’s
remains were buried in 1840.







Sainte-Chapelle Montparnasse
With its fine stained
glass, this chapel is a
medieval jewel.


Panthéon
The Neo-Classical Sainte-Geneviève,
now the Panthéon, was inspired by
Wren’s St Paul’s Cathedral in London.




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