FUR THER AFIELD 249
residence. It was here that
Henry V of England died of
dysentery, after suffering
agonizing pain, in 1422.
His body was boiled in
the château’s kitchen to
prepare it for shipping back
to England. Abandoned when
the palace of Versailles was
completed, the château was
subsequently converted into
an arsenal by Napoleon.
The 14th-century donjon,
or keep, is the tallest such
structure in Europe and is
Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen, an antiques and bric-a-brac market a fine example of med ieval
military archi tecture. It
6 ha (15 acres). In the 19th Revolution, many tombs were houses the château’s
century, rag merchants and desecrated and scattered, museum. Building work on
tramps would gather outside but the best were stored, the Gothic chapel started
the city limits and offer their and now repre sent a collection in 1380, but was not finished
wares for sale. By the 1920s, of funerary art. Memorials until around 1550. The chapel
there was a proper market include those of Dagobert features beautiful stone rose
here, where masterpieces (died 638), Henri II (died 1559) windows and a single aisle.
could sometimes be purchased and Catherine de Medici (died Two 17th-century pavilions
cheaply from the often 1589), and Louis XVI and house a fascinating museum
uninformed sellers. Today, Marie-Antoinette (died 1793). of army insignia.
it is divided into specialist Once a royal hunting
markets. Known especially ground, the Bois de Vincennes
for its profusion of furniture c Château et Bois was given to the City of Paris
and ornaments from the de Vincennes by Napoleon III in 1860. Baron
Second Empire (1852–70), Haussmann’s landscape
few bargains are to be found q Château de Vincennes. architect added a number
these days, yet some 150,000 W Vincennes. Château: Ave de of ornamental lakes and
bargain-hunters, tourists and Paris 94300 Vincennes. Tel 01 43 cascades. Among the forest’s
dealers still flock here to 28 15 48. Open Mid-May–mid-Sep: main attractions is the largest
10am–6pm daily; mid-Sep–mid-May:
browse among more than 10am–5pm daily; options available funfair in France (open from
2,000 stalls (see p331). Palm Sunday to end of
for guided visits, last adm 45 min
before closing. Closed public hols. May) and the renovated
x Basilique- & 8 = Bois de Vincennes: Parc Zoologique de Paris.
This zoo makes a special
Cathédrale de Open dawn to dusk daily. effort to preserve, protect
∑ chateau-vincennes.fr
Saint-Denis and promote animal species
The Château de Vincennes, and raise awareness of the
1 Rue de la Légion D’Honneur, enclosed by a defensive wall importance of protecting
93200 St-Denis. Tel 01 48 09 83 54. and a moat, was once a royal our environment.
q St-Denis-Bas ilique. W St-Denis.
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6:15pm
Mon–Sat, noon–6:15pm Sun; Oct–
Mar: 10am–5:15pm Mon–Sat, noon–
5:15pm Sun (last adm 30 min
before closing). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec. 5 8:30am, 10am Sun.
& 9 8 =
Constructed between 1137
and 1281, the cathedral is
on the site of the tomb of
St Denis, the first bishop of
Paris, who was beheaded in
AD 250. The building was
the original influence for
Gothic art. From Merovingian
times, it was a burial place for
rulers of France. During the The imposing Château de Vincennes
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250 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
j The Palace and Gardens of Versailles
Visitors passing through the rich interior of
this colossal palace, or strolling in its vast
gardens, will under stand why it was the glory
of the Sun King’s reign. Starting in 1668 with
his father’s modest hunting lodge, Louis XIV
built the largest palace in Europe, housing
20,000 people at a time. Architects Louis Le
Vau and Jules Hardouin-Mansart designed . Formal Gardens
the buildings, Charles Le Brun did the Geometric paths and
interiors, and André Le Nôtre, the great shrubberies are features
landscaper, redesigned the gardens. The of the formal gardens.
gardens are formally styled into regular
patterns of paths and groves, hedges and
flowerbeds, pools of water and fountains.
. The Château
Louis XIV made the château into the
centre of political power in France
(see pp252–5).
KEY
1 The Water Parterre’s vast pools
are decorated with bronze statues.
2 The Fountain of Latona
features marble basins topped
with Balthazar Marsy’s statue of
the goddess Latona.
3 The South Parterre’s shrubbery
and ornate flowerbeds overlook
the Swiss pond.
4 The Orangery was built
beneath the Parterre du Midi to
house exotic plants in winter. Fountain of
5 The King’s Garden with Mirror Neptune
Pool is a 19th-century English
garden and pool created by
Louis XVIII.
6 The Grand Canal was the Dragon Fountain
setting for Louis XIV’s many The fountain’s
boating parties. centrepiece is a
winged monster.
250-251_EW_Paris.indd 250 03/04/17 10:57 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 3rd September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
FUR THER AFIELD 251
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Place d’Armes, Versailles. Tel 01 30
83 78 00. Open Château: 9am–
6:30pm Tue–Sun (Nov–Mar: to
5:30pm). Grand & Petit Trianons:
noon–6:30pm Tue–Sun (Nov–Mar:
to 5:30pm daily). Gardens: 8am–
8:30pm daily (winter: to 6pm).
Park: from 7am daily (winter: from
Colonnade 8am). & 7 8 9 - = _
Mansart designed Les Grandes Eaux Musicales: Apr–
this circle of marble Oct: Sat & Sun, Tue in Jun; La
Serenade Royale de la Galerie des
arches in 1685.
Glaces: mid-Jun–mid-Sep: daily;
Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes:
mid-Jun–mid-Sep: Sat.
∑ chateauversailles.fr
Transport
@ Versailles Express from Eiffel
Tower. W Versailles Rive Gauche,
Versailles Chantier.
Petit Trianon
Built in 1762 as a
retreat for Louis XV,
this small palace
became a favourite
of Marie-Antoinette.
. Grand Trianon
Louis XIV built this
small palace of
stone and pink
marble in 1687
to escape the
rigours of court life,
Fountain of Neptune and to enjoy the
Groups of sculptures spray spectacular jets company of his
of water in Le Nôtre and Mansart’s mistress, Madame
17th-century fountain. de Maintenon.
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252 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
The Main Palace Buildings of Versailles
The present palace grew as a series of “envelopes” enfolding the
original hunting lodge, whose low brick front is still visible in the
centre. In the 1660s, Louis Le Vau built the first envelope, a series of
wings that expanded into an enlarged courtyard. It was decorated
with marble busts, antique trophies and gilded roofs. On the garden
side, columns were added to the west façade and a great terrace was
created on the first floor. Mansart took over in 1678 and added the
two immense north and south wings and filled Le Vau’s terrace to
form the Hall of Mirrors. He designed the chapel, which was finished
in 1710. The Opera House (L’Opéra) was added by Louis XV in 1770. Main Gate
South Wing
The wing’s original
apartments for
great nobles
were replaced by
Louis-Philippe’s
museum of
French history.
KEY
1 The Main Gate of Honour,
Mansart’s original gateway grille is
surmounted by the royal arms and
is the entrance to the Courtyard
of Honour.
2 Courtyard of Honour
3 The Royal Courtyard was
separated from the Courtyard of
Honour by elaborate grillwork during
Louis XIV’s reign. It was accessible
only to royal carriages.
4 The Clock overlooking the
Marble Courtyard is flanked by
Hercules and Mars.
5 Versailles History Gallery has a
permanent exhibition detailing the
construction of Versailles from Louis
XIII’ s hunting lodge to modern times.
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FUR THER AFIELD 253
1661 Louis XIV 1722
enlarges château 12-year-old 1793 Louis XVI
1667 Grand Canal begins Louis XV and Marie- 1837 Inauguration of
occupies Antoinette the Museum of the
1668 Construction of Versailles executed History of France
new château by Le Vau Louis XV
1650 1700 1750 1800 1850 1900
1682 Louis XIV
and Marie- 1715 Death of 1789 King and queen forced
Thérèse move Louis XIV. Versailles to leave Versailles for Paris
to Versailles abandoned by court 1919 Treaty of
1671 Interior decoration 1774 Louis XVI and Marie- Versailles signed
by Le Brun begins Antoinette live at Versailles on 28 June
. Marble Courtyard
The courtyard is decorated
with marble paving, urns,
busts and a gilded balcony.
North Wing
The chapel, Opéra and picture galleries occupy this
wing, which originally housed royal apartments.
. L’Opéra
Built for the 1770 marriage
of the future Louis XVI and
Marie-Antoinette, the Opéra
is now used as a theatre.
. Chapelle Royale
Mansart’s last great work,
this two-storey Baroque
chapel was Louis XIV’s
last addition to Versailles.
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254 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
Inside the Château of Versailles
The sumptuous main apartments are on the
first floor of the vast château complex.
Around the Marble Courtyard are the private
apartments of the king and the queen. On
the garden side are the state apartments
where official court life took place. These
were richly decorated by Charles Le Brun with
coloured marbles, stone and wood carvings,
murals, velvet, silver and gilded furniture.
Beginning with the Salon d’Hercule, each
state room is dedicated to an Olympian deity.
The climax is the Hall of Mirrors, where 357
great mirrors face 17 tall arched windows.
. Queen’s Bedroom
In this room, the queens of
Key to Floorplan
France gave birth to the royal
South wing children in full public view.
Coronation room
Madame de Maintenon’s
apartments
Queen’s apartments and
private suite
State apartments
King’s apartments and
private suite
North wing
Non-exhibition space
Exit to
The Salon du Sacre is adorned Cour des Princes; gardens
with huge paintings of Napoleon access to gardens
by Jacques-Louis David.
Entrance
Pursuit of the Queen Stairs to ground floor
reception area
On 6 October 1789, a Parisian n 9 d -m
mob invaded the palace
seeking the despised Marie-
Antoinette. The queen, roused Dufour Pavillion
in alarm from her bed, fled Entrance
towards the king’s rooms
through the anteroom known
as the Oeil-de-Boeuf. As the
mob tried to break into the
room, the queen beat on the
door of the king’s bedroom.
Once admitted, she was safe,
at least until morning, when
she and the king were remov-
ed to Paris by the cheering
and triumphant mob.
. Chapelle Royale
The chapel’s first floor was reserved
for the royal family and the ground
floor for the court. The interior is
richly decorated in white marble,
gilding and Baroque murals.
254-255_EW_Paris.indd 254 25/04/16 4:20 pm
FUR THER AFIELD 255
. Hall of Mirrors
Great state occasions were held in this
multi-mirrored room stretching 73 m (240 ft)
along the west façade. The Treaty of
Versailles was ratified here in 1919, ending
World War I.
Oeil-de-Boeuf The King’s Bedroom is
where Louis XIV died in
1715, aged 77.
Salon de la Guerre
The room’s theme of war is
dramatically reinforced by Antoine
Coysevox’s stuccoed relief of Louis
XIV riding to victory.
Salon d’Apollon
Designed by Le Brun and
dedicated to the god
Apollo, this was Louis XIV’s
throne room. A copy of
Hyacinthe Rigaud’s
famous portrait of the
king (1701) hangs here.
The Cabinet du Conseil is
where the king received his
ministers and his family.
Louis XVI’s library features
Neo-Classical panelling and
the king’s terrestrial globe.
. Salon de Vénus
A Louis XIV statue
stands amid the
rich marble decor
of this room.
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256 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
v Disneyland® Paris
Disneyland® Paris is built on a massive scale – the 2,230-ha
(5,510-acre) site encompasses two theme parks; seven hotels
(several with swimming pools); a shopping, dining and
entertainment village; an ice skating rink; a lake; two
convention centres; and a golf course. One stop down the
line from its very own train station lies Val d’Europe, a
huge shopping mall with more than 180 shopping outlets,
including 60 discount stores, and a SEA LIFE Aquarium.
Unbeatable for complete escapism, combined with vibrant The Queen of Hearts’ Castle, in Alice’s
excitement and sheer energy, the parks offer extreme rides and Curious Labyrinth
gentle experiences accompanied by phenomenal visual effects.
Parking
The Parks
A4 east-bound from Paris There is space for over 12,000
Disneyland®Paris consists of and the A4 west-bound, from vehicles, and an efficient
Disneyland® Park and Walt Disney Strasbourg. Follow the signs to moving sidewalk conveys you
Studios® Park. Disneyland® Park Marne la Vallée (Val d’Europe) to the exit. Parking costs €15
is based on the Magic Kingdom until you see the Disneyland per day for cars, and €20 for
of Cali fornia and has more than signs. (Disney’s Davy Crockett campers and coaches. Parking at
60 rides or attractions. The most Ranch is exit 13.) Disneyland® Paris hotels is free
recent is Walt Disney Studios® to guests, and the Disneyland®
Park, where interactive exhibits By Air Hotel and Disney’s Hotel New
and live shows bring alive the Both Orly and Charles de Gaulle York® offer valet parking.
wizardry of the movie and Airports have a shuttle bus
television industry. Find out more (VEA) which runs every 30 Opening Hours
at: www.disneylandparis.com or minutes (45 in low season). No
call 0844 800 8898 (UK), 0825 30 booking is necessary. The fare is The Parks tend to open at 10am
60 30 or 30 05 00 (France). about €13–17 per person. all year round. Disney land® Park
closes at 11pm in high season
Getting There By Train and earlier in low season. The Walt
The Paris RER A runs directly to Disney Studios® Park closes at
By Car the parks at Marne la Vallée, as 9pm in high season, earlier in
Disneyland® Paris lies 32 km does the TGV with connections low season. Special events, such
(20 miles) east of Paris, and has throughout Europe, including as Hallowe’en and New Year’s
its own link (exit 14) from the with the Eurostar. Eve, can mean extended hours;
check the website for details.
Eating and Drinking
When to Visit
There’s no need to leave the park to eat during the day. Au Chalet
de la Marionnette (Fantasyland®) is excellent for kids (and almost The busiest times are Christmas
deserted at 3pm), as is the Cowboy Cook-out Barbecue and New Year, mid-February to
(Frontierland®), which tends to be rather more crowded. Colonel early April and July to early
Hathi’s Pizza Outpost (Adventureland®) is worth a visit just to see September, and mid-October.
the authentic colonial gear, while Café Hyperion – Videopolis Busiest days are Saturday–
(Discoveryland) offers good food plus excellent entertainment, Monday; Tuesday and
but service is very slow. Wednesday are quietest.
You pay a premium for full-service restaurants but the experience
of eating in Blue Lagoon Restaurant (Adventureland®) is one you
will remember. You dine on the “shore” of a Caribbean Pirate hideaway Length of Visit
while the boats from Pirates of the Caribbean glide past. Walt’s, on
Main Street, USA®, is also a good but pricey restaurant offering To experience everything
American fare. If you’re lucky, they’ll seat you so that you can watch Disneyland® Paris has to offer,
the afternoon Main Street parade in comfort from an upstairs window. you really need to spend three
In Disney Village® Annette’s Diner is staffed by roller-skating or four days at the resort.
waitresses against a background of 1950s music. Planet Although it is possible to tour
Hollywood® is another good option, and the Rainforest Café® the Parks in one day each, to
provides an interestingly animated meal. Bavarian specialities are enjoy them at less than break-
on the menu in King Ludwig’s Castle, while a giant McDonald’s® neck pace you need at least two
serves the usual fare. The hotel restaurants are more expensive the days for Disneyland® Park alone,
nearer they are located to the park. and if you want to include
Buffalo Bill’s Wild West show or
256-257_EW_Paris.indd 256 03/04/17 10:57 am
FUR THER AFIELD 257
visit all of the attractions in Which Hotel?
Disney Village®, then you’ll be
pushed to manage it all in under There are six hotels on site, and one in woodland 2 km (3 miles) away.
four days. Locals turn up on a The best hotels are the closest to the Parks.
daily basis from Paris, which is
only 35 minutes away on the Hotel Santa Fe®: basic, small and reasonably inexpensive. The only
RER, but most guests from hotel offering parking immediately outside your room.
further afield will stay in hotels. Hotel Cheyenne®: a Wild West theme hotel, about 17 minutes’ walk
from the Park. Small rooms (with bunks for the kids), a Native
Disney offers several packages American village play area. Inexpensive and a great experience. Kids
for those who wish to stay on love this hotel.
site. These include passes for Sequoia Lodge®: a lakeside “hunter’s lodge”, moderately priced with
the Parks, and accommodation more than 1,000 rooms. Ask for a room in the main building. Rooms
with continental breakfast at the front have great views.
included. All-inclusive packages Newport Bay Club®: a huge, nautically themed hotel on the
can also be booked. lakeside. Moderately priced, this massive hotel has a huge convention
centre, magnificent swimming pool and three floors offering extra
Tickets services for a supplement.
Disney’s Hotel New York®: expensive and business-oriented with a
Tickets can be bought online, large convention centre. An ice-skating rink is available Oct–Mar.
as part of a package or from Disneyland® Hotel: the jewel in the crown. Expensive, but right at
any Disney Store before you the entrance to the Disneyland® Park. Full of delightful touches, such
leave home, or at the Park upon as grandfather clocks and ever-present Disney characters. The Castle
arrival – though this means Club is a 50-room hotel-within-a-hotel. If you can afford it, a week of
queuing. One-, two- or three- decadent fawning and unrestrained hedonism can be yours!
Disney’s Davy Crockett Ranch: log cabins sleeping 4–6 are grouped
day tickets are available. Hopper around a woodland trail, as well as traditional camping facilities. The
tickets allow same-day entry to best choice for family activities with some excellent facilities: the
both Parks. The Paris transport pool ranks as one of the best in Disneyland® Paris.
system RATP also sells tickets
combining RER travel and entry
to the Parks. Once inside, you on-site hotels it’s only a short
can use your ticket to get a fast walk (20 minutes at most)
pass for certain rides with a to the Park gates.
specific time slot to enable
entry without queuing. Money
Getting Around Credit cards are accepted
everywhere within the resort.
Disney provides an efficient ATMs and commission-free
transport system between the foreign exchange are available The runaway mine-train track of Big
Parks and the hotels (excluding immediately inside the Park Thunder Mountain
Disney’s Davy Crockett Ranch), entrances and at reception
with buses on the half hour. In in all the hotels. Advantages include virtually no
summer, a fleet of little open- travelling to reach the Parks, fast
top buses drives slowly around Disabled Travellers passes (ask at reception about
Lake Disney, ferrying guests restrictions) and “early bird”
between the three lakeside City Hall (immediately within entry to the parks on selected
hotels and Disney Village®. Disneyland® Park) has a brochure dates (usually at peak times).
If you’re staying at any of the outlining the facilities for disabled If you stay at a Disney hotel,
visitors, and a Disabled Guest you will be given a hotel ID
Guide can be pre-ordered (free) card which is very important.
from the website. The complex is As well as being used to charge
designed very much with anything you buy back to your
disabled visitors mind and hotel room (and have it delivered
wheelchairs can be hired, but there), it also allows you entry
note that cast members are not to the Disneyland hotel grounds
allowed to assist with lifting early in the morning while
people or moving wheelchairs. they’re still closed to day
trippers (the grounds also act
Staying in a Disney Hotel as an entrance to the Park).
For children (of any age), one
The on-site hotels offer rooms of the most exciting bonuses
at a wide range of prices; of staying in an on-site hotel
Sleeping Beauty Castle, the centrepiece generally, those closest to the is the chance to dine with
of the Park Parks are the most expensive. Disney characters.
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258 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
Exploring Disneyland® Paris
Discoveryland
The resort consists of two large entertainment areas, Science fiction and the future
Disneyland® Park and the Walt Disney Studios® Park. The are the themes here. The multi-
former celebrates Hollywood folklore and fantasies, while the loop ride Space Mountain®:
latter highlights the ingenuity involved in cinema, animation Mission 2 draws crowds from
and television production. In the run-up to the resort’s 25th the outset, but at the end of the
day, you can often walk straight
anniversary, in 2017, many attractions are being enhanced. on. Les Mystères du Nautilus takes
As a result, some rides may be closed during this time. you right into the submarine
from 20,000 Leagues Under the
Sea. At Autopia, kids can drive
Disneyland® Park a real car, while Orbitron®
Adventureland®
features spaceships. Star Tours
Main Street, USA® Enjoy the wild rides and Audio- takes you on a breathtaking
Animatronicsof Adventureland®. journey in a star shuttle. Buzz
Main Street represents a fantasy Indiana Jones and the Temple Lightyear Laser Blast takes you
TM
small-town America, right down of Peril hurtles you through a into the world of toys.
to the traffic, which includes derelict mine. The ride has Videopolis has the best shows.
horse-drawn rail cars, a paddy torches, steep drops and tight Captain EO is a master piece of
wagon and other vintage 360º loops. total sensory stimulation. The
transport in a system that runs Pirates of the Caribbean Jedi Training Academy welcomes
between Town Square and is a great boat ride through aspiring Padawans to learn to
Central Plaza. The Victorian underground prisons and past use the Force. Register early.
façades offer a wealth of detail, fighting galleons. La Cabane des
and front interesting stores. The Robinson, based on Jonathan Walt Disney
Emporium is the place for gifts. Wyss’s Swiss Family Robinson,
Further along, you can snack at starts with a shaky climb up a Studios® Park
Casey’s Corner or succumb to 27-m (88-ft) Banyan Tree. From
the aromas from Cookie Kitchen here, you explore the rest of the Front Lot
or the Cable Car Bake Shop. island, including the caves of
Either side of the shops are the Ben Gunn from Treasure Island Inside the giant studio gates,
Discovery and Liberty Arcades, and the awe-inspiring suspen- you can’t miss Mickey Mouse
offering a covered route to the sion bridge near Spyglass as he appears in The Sorcerer’s
Central Plaza and hosting Hill. The children’s playground, Apprentice. Also hard to miss
displays and small stalls. Pirates’ Beach, and Aladdin’s is the “Earful Tower”, a massive
On certain nights, thousands Enchanted Passage are also studio icon based on the water
of lights set Main Street’s paving well worth a visit. tower at the Disney Studios in
aglow. Disney’s Fantillusion, California. Disney Studio 1 houses
a fantasy of music, live action Fantasyland® a film set boulevard, complete
and illuminated floats, begins at with stylised street façades and
Town Square. From Main Street The buildings here are modelled venues such as the 1930s-style
you can ride a 19th-century on those in animated movies. Club Swankedero, the Liki Tiki
“steam” engine. Do note that Many attractions are for younger tropical bar and the ultra cool
boarding elsewhere than Main children, such as Snow White rat-packesque Hep Cat Club.
Street is not always possible and the Seven Dwarfs, and Also behind the façades is the
before noon. Pinocchio’s Fantastic Journey. Legends of Hollywood store.
The very young will love Dumbo
Frontierland® the Flying Elephant. Peter Pan’s Toon Studio®
Flight is a triumph of imagina-
This homage to America’s Wild tion and technology, flying you A huge Sorcerer’s Apprentice
West hosts some of the Park’s high over the streets of London. hat marks the entrance to the
most popular attractions. Big A popular diversion is Alice’s Art of Disney Animation®, an
Thunder Mountain, a rollercoaster Curious Labyrinth. interactive attraction tracing
ride, is circled by the Thunder Hourly, there’s a musical the history of moving imagery.
Mesa river boat that takes a parade of clockwork figures at Animagique® brings together
musical cruise around America’s “It’s a small world”. Aboard a some of the greatest moments
finest natural monuments. boat, you meander through lands from the Disney corpus. In
Phantom Manor is an excellent of animated models to the Flying Carpets over Agrabah®,
ghost ride with realistic special strains of the eponymous song. the genie from Aladdin invites
effects. Pocahontas Indian Le Pays des Contes de Fées spectators to take part in an
Village and Legends of the (Storybook Land) is another boat astonishing magic carpet ride.
Wild West are both popular ride. Next, hop aboard Casey Jr Crush’s Coaster® takes you
with younger children. for a train ride circling the boats. into the underwater animated
258-259_EW_Paris.indd 258 03/04/17 10:50 am
FUR THER AFIELD 259
world of Nemo where you Studio Tram Tour and a ride on combines a once-in-a-lifetime
face sharks. Toy Story Playland the Twilight Zone Tower ride with neon lights and
takes visitors to “Andy’s of Terror™ where you plunge pulsating Aerosmith music.
Backyard” for a simulated 13 floors inside a haunted hotel.
parachute drop.
La Place de Rémy
Backlot This new themed area plays host
Production Courtyard®
This area focuses on special to the park‘s 60th attraction,
At the interactive attraction effects, film music recording and Ratatouille : L‘Aventure Totalement
Stitch Live!, an animated dare-devil stunts. Armageddon Toquée de Rémy. The six-seater
Stitch talks to the audience. Special Effects presents a tour of “ratmobile” whisks visitors off
CinéMagique is a must for film film trickery, while Rock ‘n’ Roller on a culinary adven ture through
buffs, as it covers the history of Coaster is a high-speed attrac- the cold storage and dining
both American and European tion (in fact, it is the fastest ride room of Chef Gusteau‘s famous
cinema. Must-dos include the in any Disney theme park) that Paris restaurant.
Rides and Attractions Queues Best Time Fastpass® Motion Sickness
This chart is designed to help you make the Height / Age Restriction to Ride or Visit Scary Rating May Cause Rating Overall
best use of your time at Disneyland.
Phantom Manor Any 2
Big Thunder Mountain 1.2m FT 2
Pocahontas Indian Village Any 1
Indiana Jones™ and the Temple of Peril 1.4m LT 3
Adventure Isle Any 1
La Cabane des Robinson Any 1
Pirates of the Caribbean Any 1
Peter Pan’s Flight FT 1
Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs ➤11 1
Pinocchio’s Fantastic Journey ➤11 1
Dumbo the Flying Elephant FT 1
Mad Hatter’s Teacups ➤12 1
Alice’s Curious Labyrinth Any 1
“It’s a Small World” Any 1
Casey Jr – Le Petit Train du Cirque ➤11 1
Le Pays des Contes de Fées Any 1
Buzz Lightyear Laser Blast Any 1
Star Tours 1.32m Any 1
Space Mountain® : Mission 2 1.32m LT 3
Captain EO Any 1
Autopia 1.2m FT 1
Orbitron® FT 1
Jedi Training Academy 7–12 yrs FT 1
Disney Studio 1 Any 1
Art of Disney Animation® Any 1
Animagique® Any 1
Crush’s Coaster® 1.07m Any 1
Flying Carpets Over Agrabah® 1.2m FT 1
Playhouse Disney Live on Stage! Any 1
CinéMagique Any 1
Stitch Live! FT 1
Studio Tram Tour ® FT 1
Twilight Zone Tower of Terror™ 1.02m Any 3
Armageddon Special Effects Any 1
Rock ‘n’ Roller Coaster 1.2m Any 3
L‘Aventure Totalement Toquée de Rémy 1.07m Any 1
Short - Medium - Long - Anytime - Any Before 11 - ➤11 First thing - FT Last thing - LT
Not Scary - 1 Slightly - 2 Very - 3 Quite good - Very good - Outstanding -
258-259_EW_Paris.indd 259 03/04/17 10:50 am
260-261_EW_Paris.indd 260 03/04/17 10:57 am
P ARIS AREA B Y AREA 261
EIGHT GUIDED WALKS
Paris is a city for walking. It is more compact luxury modern residential architecture,
and easier to get around than many other Monceau for its sumptuous Second Empire
great capitals. Most of its famous sights are mansions and Ile St-Louis for its ancien régime
within walking distance of one another town houses and narrow streets. The old-
and they are close to the heart of the city, fashioned charm of the iron footbridges
the Ile de la Cité. survives along Canal St-Martin, and steep
There are 14 classic tourist areas described village streets that were once home to
in the Area by Area section of this book, each famous artists still enrich Montmartre. A
with a short walk marked on its Street-by- tranquil village atmosphere also pervades
Street map, taking you past many of the most two lesser-known hilltop districts – Buttes-
interesting sights. Yet Paris offers a wealth of Chaumont, with one of Paris’s loveliest parks,
lesser-known but equally remarkable areas, and Buttes- aux-Cailles, whose quaint, cobbled
whose special history, architecture and local alleyways belie its association with the ill-fated
customs reveal other facets of the city. Paris Commune of 1871, while the once
The eight walks around the following working-class area of Faubourg St-Antoine
neighbourhoods take in the main sights and has been given a new lease of life as an arti-
also introduce visitors to their subtle details, sans’ quarter with a pleasure-boat harbour.
such as street markets, quirky churches, All the walk areas are readily accessible
canals, gardens, old village streets and by public transport and the nearest Metro
bridges. And the literary, artistic and historical stations and bus routes are listed in the Tips
associations allow the past and present to for Walkers boxes. For each walk, there are
blend into the changing and vibrant life of suggestions on convenient resting points,
the modern city. Auteuil is renowned for its such as cafés and squares, along the route.
Montmartre
(pp270–71)
Parc Monceau Buttes-
(pp262–3) Chaumont
(pp272–3)
Canal St-Martin
Opéra (pp264–5)
Champs- Quarter
Chaillot Elysées Tuileries
Quarter Quarter Beaubourg
and The
Invalides S eine Les Halles Marais Faubourg
and Ile St-Louis St-Antoine
Eiffel Tower St-Germain- Ile de La (pp266–7) (pp274–5)
Quarter des-Prés Cité
Latin
Quarter
Auteuil Luxembourg Jardin des
(pp268–9) Quarter Plantes
Montparnasse Quarter
Buttes-aux-Cailles
(pp276–7)
Key 0 kilometres 2
Walk route 0 miles 1
Paintings for sale at the bustling Place du Tertre
260-261_EW_Paris.indd 261 03/04/17 10:57 am
262 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk around Parc Monceau
This leisurely walk passes through the exquisite late-18th-
century Parc Monceau, the centrepiece of a smart Second
Empire district. It then follows a route along surrounding
streets, where groups of opulent mansions stunningly
convey the magnificence in which some Parisians live, before
ending at Place St-Augustin. For details on Monceau sights,
see page 234.
Parc Monceau to 19th-century Neo-Classical
Avenue Velasquez mansions. At No. 7 is the
The walk starts at the splendid Cernuschi Ruysdaël gate
Monceau Metro museum 6, which
station 1 on the houses a collection BLVD DE
Boulevard de of Far Eastern art COURCELLES Villiers
Courcelles. Enter (see p235). Monceau
the park where 1 M O N C E A U
Nicolas Ledoux’s Parc Monceau’s tollhouse 2 2 3 4
18th-century BLVD DE COURCELLES 5 R U E D E
PARC
tollhouse 2 stands. On either 0 MON C EAU 8 7 6
side are sumptuously gilded Courcelles 9 MIROMESNIL RUE DE RUE DE GENERAL FOY
19th-century wrought-iron gates RUE DE r t
R U E D E M O N C E A U
that support ornate lampposts. COURCELLES q
Take the second path on w
the left past the monument to RUE MURILLO PLACE DE R U E D E L I S B O N N E RUE DE LISBONNE
Guy de Maupassant 3 (1897). RUE DE LISBONNE RIO DE JANEIRO
This is only one of a series of AVENUE HOCHE
y
six Belle Epoque monuments e A V E N U E RUE D E LA BIENFAISANCE
of prominent French writers R U E D E C O U R C E L L E S u
and musicians that are pictur- D E M E S S I N E AVE C CLAIRE
esquely scattered throughout
the park. Most of them feature
a solemn bust of a great man BLVD HAUSSMANN RUE DE MIROMESNIL o i RUE D E LA PEPINIERE
BOU L EV AR D MALESHERB ES
who is accompanied by BOULEVARD H AUSSMANN St-Augustin
a swooning muse. RUE DE LA BA UME
Straight ahead is the most
important remaining folly, a R U E L A B O E T I E SQUARE
Miromesnil
moss-covered Corinthian LOUIS
XVI
colonnade 4 running around
the edge of a tiny lake with the
requisite island in the centre.
Walk around the colonnade and
under a 16th- century arch 5 Colonnade in Parc Monceau 4
trans planted from the old Paris
Hôtel de Ville (see p104), which Avenue Velasquez to Avenue past the monument (1902) to
burned down in 1871. Van Dyck the musician Ambroise Thomas
Turn left on the Allée de la Re-enter the park and turn left 8. Immediately behind, there
Comtesse de Ségur and go into the second small winding is a lovely artificial mountain
into Avenue Velasquez, a path, which is bordered by an with cascade. Turn left on the
wide tree-lined street with 18th-century mossy pyramid 7, next avenue and walk to the
antique tombs, a stone arcade, monument to the composer
an obelisk and a small Chinese Charles Gounod 9 (1897) on
stone pagoda. The romantically the left. From here, follow the
melancholy tone of these follies first winding path to the right
suits the spirit of the late towards the Avenue Van Dyck
18th century. exit. Ahead to the right,
Turn right on the first path in the corner of the park, is the
past the pyramid and walk back Chopin monument 0 (1906),
to the central avenue. Straight and looking along the Allée
ahead, a Renaissance bridge de la Comtesse de Ségur, the
fords the little stream running monument to the 19th-century
Ambroise Thomas statue 8 from the lake. Turn left and walk French poet Alfred de Musset.
262-263_EW_Paris.indd 262 03/04/17 10:57 am
EIGHT GUIDED W ALKS 263
Avenue Van Dyck to the Industrial Age bourgeoisie,
Rue de Monceau but horrified sensitive souls and
Leave the park and pass into writers who compared them
Avenue Van Dyck. No. 5 on the with the buildings of New York.
right is an impressive Parc No. 75 is the posh marble
Monceau mansion q, a Neo- front of Benneton, the most
Baroque structure built by fashionable Paris card and
chocolate manufacturer Emile stationery engraver y. On the
Menier; No. 6 is in the French left, approaching the Boulevard
Renaissance style that came Haussmann, looms the greatest
back into favour in the 1860s. 19th-century Paris church,
Straight ahead, beyond the St-Augustin u, built by Victor-
ornate grille, there is a fine Louis Baltard. Enter the church
view of Avenue Hoche and in through the back door on Rue
the distance, the Arc de la Bien faisance. Walk through
de Triomphe. The mountain cascade 8 the church and leave by the
BLVD DE
COURCELLES Villiers main door. On the left is the
Monceau Walk past the gate and turn left massive stone building of the
1 4 M O N C E A U into Rue de Courcelles and left French Officers’ club, the Cercle
2
BLVD DE COURCELLES PARC 3 7 5 6 R U E D E again into Rue Murillo, bordered Militaire i. Straight ahead is a
bronze statue of Joan of Arc o.
by more elaborate town houses
0
Continue on to Place St-Augustin
in 18th-century and French
9
Courcelles MON C EAU 8 t MIROMESNIL RUE DE RUE DE GENERAL FOY Renaissance styles w. At the to St-Augustin Metro station.
q r crossing of Rue Rembrandt,
R U E D E M O N C E A U
on the left, is another gate
RUE DE
COURCELLES
w RUE MURILLO PLACE DE R U E D E L I S B O N N E RUE DE LISBONNE into the park and on the
right, a massive apartment
AVENUE HOCHE e RUE DE LISBONNE RIO DE JANEIRO A V E N U E BOU L EV AR D MALESHERB ES building from 1900 (No. 7)
and an elegant French
y
RUE D E LA BIENFAISANCE
an elaborately carved
u Renaissance house with
wooden front
door (No. 1).
AVE C CLAIRE
At the corner
R U E D E C O U R C E L L E S
D E M E S S I N E
BLVD HAUSSMANN RUE DE MIROMESNIL o i RUE D E LA PEPINIERE of the Rue
RUE DE LA BA UME BOULEVARD H AUSSMANN St-Augustin Rembrandt
and the Rue de
R U E L A B O E T I E SQUARE the oddest of all Joan of Arc statue o
Courcelles is
Miromesnil
LOUIS
the neighbour-
XVI
hood buildings, a Tips for Walkers
striking five-storey red Chinese
pagoda e. It is an exclusive Starting point: Blvd de
Key Courcelles.
emporium of Chinese art.
Walk route Turn left onto the Rue de Length: 3 km (2 miles).
Monceau, walk past Avenue Getting there: The nearest
Ruysdaël and continue to the Metro is Monceau, reached by
0 metres 250 bus No. 30; No. 84 goes to Metro
Musée Nissim de Camondo
0 yards 250 at No. 63 Rue de Monceau r Courcelles and No. 94 stops bet-
ween Monceau & Villiers Metros.
(see pp234–5). Some nearby St Augustin church: Open daily;
buildings worth having a look hours vary seasonally but usually
at are Nos. 52, 60 and 61 t. involve closing at lunchtime for a
2–4hr period Sat & Sun; check
Boulevard Malesherbes times at www.saintaugustin.net.
At the junction of Rue de Stopping off points: Near the
Monceau and Boulevard Renaissance bridge in the Parc
Malesherbes, turn right. This Monceau, a kiosk serves coffee
long boulevard with dignified and sandwiches (summer only).
six-storey apartment buildings There is a brasserie at Place de
is typical of the great avenues Rio de Janeiro and several cafés
cut through Paris by Baron around Place St-Augustin. The
Haussmann, Prefect of the Seine Square M Pagnol off Ave C Claire
during the Second Empire (see is a pleasant place to take in the
Five-storey Chinese pagoda e pp36–7). They greatly pleased beauty of the park.
For additional keys to symbols see back flap
262-263_EW_Paris.indd 263 03/04/17 10:57 am
264 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk along the Canal St-Martin
The walk along the quays on either side of the Canal St-Martin
is an experience of Paris very different from that of smarter
districts. Here, the older surviving landmarks of the
neighbourhood – the factories, warehouses, dwellings,
taverns and cafés – hint at life in a thriving 19th-century
industrial, working-class world. But there are also the gentler
charms of the old iron footbridges, the tree-lined quays, the
inevitable fishermen, the river barges, and the still waters
of the broad canal basins. A walk along the canal, which
connects the Bassin de la Villette with the Seine, will evoke
images of the Pernod-drinking, working-class Paris of Jean
Gabin and Edith Piaf. The 18th-century Stalingrad
Rotonde de la Villette 2 1 3
2 4 AVENUE JEAN JAURES
R D FAUBOURG ST MARTIN
RUE LA FAYETTE Jaurès
A VE SE CRETAN
Louis 6 QUAI DE VALMY
Blanc BLANC 5 BLVD DE LA VILLETTE
R LOUIS
Canal St Martin R LOUIS BLANC
Bassin de la Villette looking north 3 R EUG VARLIN
Place de Stalingrad to fountains, square and terraces 7 9
Avenue Jea n-Jaurès were designed in the 1980s to V A L M Y 8
From the Stalingrad Metro provide an attractive setting R DE ECLUSES
station 1, follow Boulevard de and fine views of the Bassin D E 0 ST MARTIN
la Villette to the square in front de la Villette 3 to the north. q
of the Rotonde de la Villette 2. Walk towards Avenue Q U A I R DE LA GRANGE
This is one of the few remaining Jean-Jaurès. On the left is RUE DES RECOLLETS AUX BELLES
18th-century tollhouses in Paris, the first lock 4 leading w
designed by the celebrated down to the canal, as well t
Neo-Classical architect Nicolas as the art-house cinema e u r
Ledoux in the 1780s. The chain MK2’s landmark RUE LUCIEN SAMPAIX y
complexes, which are linked
Tips for Walkers together by a boat. RUE DE LANCRY i Q U A I Canal St Martin R BICHAT
RUE ALIBERT
Q U A I
Starting point: Place de D E
Stalingrad.
Length: 3.5 km (2 miles). R DIEU V A L M Y J E M M A P E S RUE BICHAT
Getting there: The nearest Metro RUE BEAUREPAIRE D E
is Stalingrad: bus No. 54 stops BLVD DE MAGENTA
there, and No. 26 at Metro Jaurès. RUE LEON JOUHAUX o p
Hôpital St-Louis: Chapel open
2–5pm Fri–Sun; the courtyard is République RUE DU s a
DU TEMPLE
open Mon–Fri. BLVD ST MARTIN FAUBOURG
Stopping off points: Ethnic food REPUBLIQUE BLVD JULES FERRY
shops and restaurants abound in
PLACE DE LA
the lively Rue du Faubourg du
Temple and nearby streets. The
Quai de Valmy and Rue Beaupaire Key
offer plenty of modish restaurants Walk route
and bars (Le Point Ephémère, The
Hôtel Du Nord, Chez Prune).
There is a shady public garden
on Boulevard Jules Ferry. 0 metres 500
View from Rue E Varlin bridge 7 0 yards 500
264-265_EW_Paris.indd 264 03/04/17 10:50 am
EIGHT GUIDED W ALKS 265
first Bourbon king, to care for the
victims of the plague. Leave the
courtyard from the central gate
on the wing on your left. Here,
you pass by the 17th-century
hospital chapel t and out into
the Rue de la Grange aux Belles.
Turn left and walk back to the
canal. At the junction of Rue de la
Grange aux Belles and the Quai
de Jemmapes stood, until 1627,
the Montfaucon gallows y, one
of the chief public execution
Courtyard garden of Hôpital St-Louis r spots of medieval Paris. Turn into
the Quai de Jemmapes. At No.
Stalingrad Nearby is the French Communist 101 u is the original front of the
1 3 Party headquarters 9 on Place Hôtel du Nord, made famous in
du Colonel Fabien, with its
the eponymous 1930s film. In
2 4 AVENUE JEAN JAURES curving glazed tower. front is another iron foot bridge
and a draw bridge i for traffic,
Return to the Quai de
R D FAUBOURG ST MARTIN
stands one of the few surviving
with views of the canal on either
RUE LA FAYETTE Jaurès Jem mapes, where at No. 134 0 provid-ing a charming setting
brick-and-iron industrial build-
side. Cross over and con tinue
down the Quai de Valmy until the
ings that used to line the canal
A VE SE CRETAN
Louis 6 QUAI DE VALMY in the 19th century. At No. 126 q last footbridge o at the corner of
Blanc BLANC BLVD DE LA VILLETTE is another notable modern build- the Rue Léon-Jouhaux. From
R LOUIS
ing, a residence for the elderly,
5
with monumental concrete here, the canal can be seen
disappearing under the surface
Canal St Martin R LOUIS BLANC arches and glazed bay windows. of Paris, to continue its journey
Further along, at No. 112 w, is
through a great stone arch.
an Art Deco apartment building
9
R EUG VARLIN
V A L M Y 7 8 with bay windows, decorative Square Frédéric Lemaître to
iron balconies and tiles. On the
Place de la République
ground floor is a modernized
Walk along Square Frédéric
D E 0 R DE ECLUSES former 1930s proletarian café. Lemaître p to the start of
ST MARTIN
Boulevard Jules Ferry, which has
Here, the canal curves gracefully
Q U A I q R DE LA GRANGE Iron footbridges over the canal 5 into the third lock, spanned by a a public garden stretching down
its centre. The garden was built
charming iron footbridge e.
w AUX BELLES over the canal in the 1860s. At its
RUE DES RECOLLETS
Quai de Valmy to Rue Bichat Hôpital St-Louis to Rue head stands a charmingly nostal-
t
RUE LUCIEN SAMPAIX u y r Jemmapes, which runs the Turn left into Rue Bichat, which 1830s, La Grisette a. This is the
e
Cross over to the Quai de
Léon-Jouhaux
gic statue of a flower girl of the
leads to the remark able 17th-
cross roads of a busy working-
length of the east side of
RUE DE LANCRY i Q U A I Q U A I D E R BICHAT the canal and down to the first century Hôpital St-Louis r. Enter class street, Rue du Faubourg
RUE ALIBERT
du Temple s, with flourishing
bridge on Rue Louis Blanc 5.
through the hospital’s old main
Cross the bridge to the Quai de
gate with its high-pitched roof
ethnic shops and restaurants.
Canal St Martin
RUE BEAUREPAIRE D E V A L M Y J E M M A P E S RUE BICHAT Valmy. From the corner, there and massive stone arch. Pass into Follow the street to the right
the courtyard. The hospital was
and on to the Metro station in
is a glimpse of the oblique
R DIEU
the Place de la République.
granite and glass front of the
founded in 1607 by Henri IV, the
RUE LEON JOUHAUX o p Paris Industrial Tribunal 6 on
the Rue Louis Blanc.
BLVD DE MAGENTA
FAUBOURG the bridge 7, from where there
République RUE DU s a Continue along Quai de
Valmy. At Rue E Varlin, cross
DU TEMPLE
BLVD ST MARTIN
is an attractive view of the
PLACE DE LA
second canal lock, the lock-
REPUBLIQUE
BLVD JULES FERRY
keeper’s house, public gardens
and old lampposts. At the other
side of the bridge and slightly
to the left, go along the
pedestrianized Rue Haendel,
which provides a good view of
the towering buildings of a
social housing estate 8. Shop, Rue du Faubourg du Temple s
For additional keys to symbols see back flap
264-265_EW_Paris.indd 265 03/04/17 10:50 am
266 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk around the Ile St-Louis
The walk around this tiny island passes
along the picturesque tree-lined quays
from Pont Louis-Philippe to Quai d’Anjou,
taking in the 17th-century hôtels that infuse
the area with such a powerful sense of period.
It then penetrates into the heart of the island
along the main street, Rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile,
enlivened by chic restaurants, cafés, art
galleries and boutiques, before returning to
the north side of the island and back to Pont
Marie. For more information on the main
sights, see pages 79 and 91. Left Bank view of the Ile St-Louis
balconies. At No. 6, the
former Polish library,
founded in 1838, now S e
houses the Société i n RUE DE L'HOTEL DE VILLE
Historique et Littéraire VOI E GEORGES P OMPIDOU
e
Polonaise (see p91), Q U A I
focusing on the life Port de l'Hôtel QUA I DE L'HOTEL DE VILLE
de Ville
of Polish poet A U X Pont Louis RUE D E L'HOTEL DE VILLE
Philippe
Adam Mickiewicz 3 2
7; it also F L E U R S Pont Marie
contains some 4 QUAI DE 1
Chopin scores RUE DU CLOITRE 5 BOURBON Pont
and auto- Pont St a Marie QUAI DE S CELESTINS
NOTRE DAME
graphs by SQUARE Louis s VOI E G E ORG ES POMPIDOU
Fishing on a St-Louis quayside George JEAN XXIII QUAI DE L'ARCHEVECHE o QUAI D'ANJOU
Sand and SQUARE p RUE DES DEUX PONTS
DE L'ILE
Port de
Metro Pont Marie to Victor Hugo. Montebello DE FRANCE Q U A I D ' O R L E A N S y
6
t
Rue Jean-du-Bellay On the right, the Pont de i RUE ST L OUIS EN L'ILE
From the Pont Marie Metro Pont de la Tournelle l'Archevéché 7 u
station 1, walk down Quai des 8 links the island 9
Celestins and Quai de l’Hôtel to the Left Bank. Pont de la QUAI DE q r
de Ville, lined with bookstands, Tournelle 0
with views of Ile St-Louis. Turn Q U A I D E L A T O U R N E L L E 8 BETHUNE BLVD HENRI IV
Pont de
left at Pont Louis-Philippe 2 Sully
and, having crossed it, take the Pont de
Sully
steps down to the lower quay w e
immediately to the right. Walk
around the tree-shaded west
point of the island 3, then up
the other side to the Pont Key S e
St-Louis 4. Opposite the Walk route i n
bridge, on the corner of Rue e
Jean-du-Bellay, is Le Flore en
l’Ile 5, the smartest café-cum- 0 metres 250
tea salon on the island.
0 yards 250
Quai d’Orléans
From the corner of the Quai
d’Orléans and the Rue Jean- Quai de Béthune to
du-Bellay, there are fine views of Pont Marie
the Panthéon’s dome and Notre- Continue beyond the bridge
Dame. Along the quay, Nos. and into Quai de Béthune,
18 –20, the Hôtel Rolland, has where the Nobel-laureate Marie
unusual Hispano-Moorish win- Curie lived at No. 36 9, and
dows 6. No. 12 is one of several where beautiful wrought-iron
stately 17th-century houses balconies gracefully decorate
with handsome wrought-iron Windows of the Hôtel Rolland 6 Nos. 34 and 30. The Hôtel
266-267_EW_Paris.indd 266 03/04/17 10:57 am
EIGHT GUIDED W ALKS 267
a late 19th-century bridge
joining the riverbanks.
Ahead is the charming
19th-century Square
Barye e, a shady public
garden at the east point
of the island, from where
there are fine river views.
From here, travel towards
the Quai d’Anjou as far as the
corner of Rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile
to see the most famous house
on the island, the Hôtel
Lambert r (see pp28–9).
Continue into the Quai d’Anjou,
where Hôtel de Lauzun t at Gargoyle at No. 51 Rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile p
No. 17 has a severe Classical
front and a beautiful gilded one of the island’s finest
balcony. Now turn left into rows of hôtels, the most
S Rue Poulletier and note the notable being Hôtel Jassaud
e
i
n RUE DE L'HOTEL DE VILLE St-Louis church door u convent of the Daughters of at No. 19 a. Continue to the
e
Charity y at No. 5 bis. Further 17th-century Pont Marie s
on, at the corner of Rue and cross it to the Pont Marie
Q U A I
VOI E GEORGES P OMPIDOU
Port de l'Hôtel Poulletier and Rue St-Louis- Metro on the other side.
de Ville QUA I DE L'HOTEL DE VILLE
Pont Louis en-l’Ile, is the island church,
A U X
Philippe RUE D E L'HOTEL DE VILLE
3 2 St-Louis u, with its unusual Tips for Walkers
Pont Marie tower, projecting clock and Starting point: Pont Marie
4 BOURBON 1 carved main door.
QUAI DE
F L E U R S
5 Pont Proceed along Rue St-Louis- Metro.
a Marie Length: 2.6 km (1.6 miles).
RUE DU CLOITRE
NOTRE DAME
Pont St s QUAI DE S CELESTINS en-l’Ile, which abounds in Getting there: The walk starts
Louis
SQUARE o VOI E G E ORG ES POMPIDOU small, chic, bistro-style from the Pont Marie Metro. How-
JEAN XXIII QUAI DE L'ARCHEVECHE SQUARE RUE DES DEUX PONTS QUAI D'ANJOU restaurants with pleasantly ever, bus route 67 takes you to
DE L'ILE
Port de DE FRANCE p old-fashioned interiors. No. 31 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe and
6
Montebello Q U A I D ' O R L E A N S y t is the original Berthillon ice also crosses the island along Rue
Pont de i RUE ST L OUIS EN L'ILE cream shop i, No. 60 an art
l'Archevéché des Deux Ponts and Boulevard
7 gallery o with an original
9 u 19th-century window front, Pont de Sully; routes 86 and 87
q r also cross the island along
Pont de la and at No. 51 is one of Boulevard Pont de Sully.
Tournelle QUAI DE the few 18th-century
0
8 BETHUNE BLVD HENRI IV hôtels on the island, Stopping off points: There are
cafés, such as Flore en l’Ile and
Pont de
with a superb Rococo
cream (see p310). Restaurants on
Pont de Sully Hôtel Chernizot p, the Berthillon shops for ice
Q U A I D E L A T O U R N E L L E
Sully
w e balcony resting on the Rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile include
leering gargoyles. Auberge de la Reine Blanche
Turn right into Rue (No. 30) and Cafe Med (No. 77),
Jean-du-Bellay and as well as a pâtisserie and
S along to Pont a cheese shop. Good resting
e
i Louis-Philippe. points are the tree-shaded quays
n and Square Barye to the eastern
e Turn right again
Richelieu 0 at into the Quai de end of the island.
No. 18 is one of the Bourbon, lined by
island’s most beautiful
houses. It features a
fine garden where it has
retained its original Classical
blind arcades.
If you turn left down Rue
Bretonvilliers, there is an
imposing 17th-century house
q, with a high-pitched roof
resting on a great Classical
arch spanning the street.
Back on the Quai de Béthune,
proceed to the Pont de Sully w, The 17th-century Pont Marie s
For additional keys to symbols see back flap
266-267_EW_Paris.indd 267 03/04/17 10:57 am
268 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk in Auteuil
Part of the fascination of the walk around this bastion of
bourgeois life in westernmost Paris lies in the contrasting
nature of the area’s streets. The old village provincialism of
Rue d’Auteuil, where the walk begins, leads on to masterpieces
of luxurious modern architecture along Rue La Fontaine and
Rue du Docteur Blanche. The walk ends at the Jasmin Metro
station. For more on the sights of Auteuil, see page 246.
Rue d’Auteuil drinking fountain, donated by
The walk begins at Place d’Auteuil the English millionaire Richard
1, a leafy village square with Wallace in the 19th century. Turn
a striking Guimard-designed left down Rue Poussin and
Metro station entrance, right into Rue Donizetti to see
an 18th-century funerary the Villa Montmorency 5, a
obelisk, and the private enclave of luxury Obelisk, Place t Ranelagh
19th-century Neo- villas, built on the former d’Auteuil 1 y AVE MOZART
Romanesque Notre- country estate of the r
Dame d’Auteuil. Walk Comtesse de Boufflers.
down Rue d’Auteuil, R U E D E
the main street of the Rue La Fontaine RUE DU DOCTEU R BLANCHE M O Z A R T
old village, and take in Return to Rue La w
the sense of a past Fontaine, renowned for RU E D E L'YVETTE PLACE L ' A S S O M P T I O N
RODIN
provincial world. The its many Hector Guimard A V E e q
Auberge du Mouton buildings. Marcel Proust
Blanc brasserie at No. 40 was born at No. 96. Jasmin 0
2 now occupies the Henri Sauvage’s RUE H. HEINE i o
premises of the area’s ensemble of artists’ u A V E N U E L E O P O L D I I RUE DE BOULAINVILLIERS
oldest tavern, favoured Wallace fountain 4 studios at No. 65 6 is RUE JASMIN
by Molière and his one of the most original RUE GROS
actors in the 1600s. The house at Art Deco buildings in Paris. No. 60 R U E R A F F E T R U E R I B E R A 8 9
Nos. 45–47 3 was the residence is a Guimard Art Nouveau house
of American presidents John 7 with elegant cast-iron 7
Adams and his son John Quincy balconies. Further along, there R U E L A F O N T A I N E
Adams. Move on to the is a small Neo-Gothic chapel at RU E D E LA SOURCE
V il la
pleasantly shaded Place Jean No. 40 8 and Art Nouveau Mo nt m o r e n c y A V E N U E M O Z A R T
Lorrain 4, the site of the local apartment buildings at T H E O P H I L E G A U T I E R
market. Here, there is a Wallace Nos. 19 and 21 9. No. 14 6
is Guimard’s most 5
Tips for Walkers spectacular building, F O N T A I N E
the Castel Béranger R U E P O U S S I N L A
Starting point: Place d’Auteuil. 0, with a superb R U E A V E N U E
Length: 3 km (2 miles). iron gate.
Getting there: The nearest Metro RUE D'AUTEUIL PLACE J 4 RUE D'A U TE UIL
LORRAIN
2
station to the starting point is 3
Eglise d’Auteuil, and buses that Michel Eglise
Ange
take you there are Nos. 22, 52 Auteuil d'Auteuil
and 62. 1
Stopping off points: At No. 40 RUE MICHEL ANGE RUE BOILEAU
Rue d’Auteuil is the inexpensive
trendy brasserie L’Auberge du
Mouton Blanc, with 1930s decor.
At No. 35 bis Rue La Fontaine is
Acajou, serving innovative cuisine
and owned by a young chef.
Place Jean Lorrain is a pleasantly
shaded square where walkers can Key
rest, and on Rue La Fontaine, Walk route
there is a small park in front of the
Neo-Gothic chapel at No. 40.
Further on at Place Rodin, there is
a pleasant public garden. 0 metres 250
Doorway of No. 28 Rue d’Auteuil 0 yards 250
268-269_EW_Paris.indd 268 25/04/16 4:19 pm
EIGHT GUIDED W ALKS 269
Rue de l’Assomption to Rue architects, designers, artists and
Mallet-Stevens their modern-minded clients.
At the corner of Rue de The original proportions,
l’Assomption, there is a view of however, were altered
the massive Maison de Radio- dramatically by the addition of an
France q, built in 1963 to house extra three storeys in the 1960s.
French radio and television (see Continue on Rue du Docteur
p204). It was one of the first Blanche until coming to Villa du
modern postwar buildings in Docteur Blanche on the left. At
the city. Turn left into Rue de the end of this small cul-de-sac
l’Assomption and walk to the is the most celebrated modern
fine 1920s apartment building house in Auteuil, Le Corbusier’s
at No. 18 w. Turn left into Rue Villa Roche u. Together with
du Général Dubail and follow the adjoining Villa Jeanneret,
the street to Place Rodin, where it is now part of the Corbusier
the great sculptor’s bronze Foundation (see pp40–41, 246).
Notre-Dame de l’Assomption, pietà t Built for an art collector in 1923–
t Ranelagh AVE MOZART nude, The Age of Bronze (1877) 5 using the new technique of
RUE DU DOCTEU R BLANCHE RU E D E L'YVETTE M O Z A R T R U E D E w L ' A S S O M P T I O N lack of ornamentation, is a
reinforced concrete, the house,
y
r
e, occupies the centre of
with its geometric forms and
the roundabout.
model of early Modernism.
PLACE
A V E
RODIN
Jasmin e 0 q
i o A V E N U E L E O P O L D I I
u RUE DE BOULAINVILLIERS
RUE JASMIN
RUE H. HEINE
9 RUE GROS
8
R U E R I B E R A
Take the Avenue
7
RU E D E LA SOURCE R U E L A F O N T A I N E back to Rue de Shuttered bay window at No. 3
R U E R A F F E T
Théodore Rousseau
Square Jasmin o
V il la A V E N U E M O Z A R T
l’Assomption and turn left
Mo nt m o r e n c y T H E O P H I L E G A U T I E R towards Avenue Mozart. Rue du Docteur Blanche
to Rue Jasmin
Cut through in the 1880s, this
Blanche and turn right into Rue
5 F O N T A I N E 6 is the principal artery of the Walk back to Rue du Docteur
16th arrondissement, linking
Henri Heine. No. 18 bis i is a
P O U S S I N north and south and lined with very elegant Neo-Classical 1920s
R U E L A
R U E A V E N U E typical bourgeois apartment apartment building offering
buildings of the late 19th
a good contrast to one of
PLACE J
RUE D'AUTEUIL LORRAIN 4 RUE D'A U TE UIL century. Cross the avenue and Guimard’s last creations from
2
3 Eglise continue to the Avenue des 1926 next door – an Art Nouveau
RUE MICHEL ANGE Auteuil RUE BOILEAU 1 collection of weekend villas r at Castel Béranger but
façade much tamer than that
Chalets where there is a typical
Michel
Ange
d'Auteuil
still employing
recalling the quieter suburban
Auteuil of the mid-19th
brick, and with
projecting bay
century. Further along Rue de
l’Assomption, Notre-Dame de
terraced roof. Turn
l’Assomption t is a Neo- windows and a
Renaissance 19th-century left on Rue Jasmin.
church. Turn left into Rue du In the second cul-
Docteur Blanche. At No. 9 and de-sac on the left,
down the adjoining Rue Mallet- there is another
Stevens y, there is a row of Guimard house
celebrated modern houses in at No. 3 Square
the International Modern style Jasmin o. Towards
by the architect Robert Mallet- the end of Rue
Stevens. In this expensive, once Jasmin is the
No. 18 Rue de l’Assomption, detail w avant-garde enclave lived Metro station. The Age of Bronze e
For additional keys to symbols see back flap
268-269_EW_Paris.indd 269 25/04/16 4:19 pm
270 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk in Montmartre
The walk begins at the base of the sandstone
butte (hill), where old theatres and dance halls,
once frequented and depicted by painters from
Renoir to Picasso, have now been taken over
by trendy bars. It continues steeply uphill to
the original village, along streets which still
retain the atmosphere caught by artists like
Van Gogh, before winding downhill to end at
Place Blanche. For more on the main sights of
Montmartre and Sacré-Coeur, see pages 222–31. Montmartre seen from a distance
apartment building, and No. 25
is where Vincent Van Gogh and
his brother Theo lived in 1886 Lamarck
3. The famous Chat Noir 4, Caulaincourt
Montmartre’s most renowned R U E C A U L A I N C O U R T
artistic cabaret in the 1890s, AV ENUE JUNOT
flourished at No. 12. At the end p
of the street begins the wide RUE S DEREURE o
tree-lined Avenue Trudaine. A V E N UE JUNOT RUE DE i RUE SAINT VINCENT
SQUARE
Take Rue Lallier on the left to S. BUISSON L’ABREUVOIR
Boule vard de Rochechouart. a u y
Continue east. No. 84 is the first RUE LEP IC d s RUE CORTOT
f
address of the Chat Noir and r
St-Jean l’Evangéliste, detail 9 No. 80 was the Grand Trianon R D'ORCHAMPT w t
5, Paris’s oldest-surviving g RUE DURANTIN e PLACE DU
Place Pigalle to cinema, from the early TERTRE Sacré
Rue Ravignan 1890s. It is now a Coeur
The walk starts at the lively Place theatre. Further q RUE GABRIELLE
Pigalle 1 and follows Rue along, No. 72 is the RUE DURANTIN SQUARE
LOUISE
Frochot to the Rue Victor Massé. original front of RUE DES ABBESSES RUE DES TROIS FRERES MICHEL
At the corner is the ornate Montmartre’s first RUE LEPIC Abbesses
SQUARE
entrance to an exclusive private great cancan R U E V E R O N WILLETTE
street bordered by late 19th- dance hall, 9 8
century chalets 2. Opposite, the Elysée- RUE Y LE TAC
at No. 27 Rue Victor Massé, is Montmartre 6. h RUE COUSTOU 0 RUE D’ORSEL
an ornate mid-19th-century Following a fire, it is Blanche RU E G E RM A IN P ILON RUE D’ORSEL PLACE RUE DE STEINKERQUE
currently closed. B O U L E V A R D C DULLIN7
Tips for Walkers Turn left onto Rue du RUE HOUDON RUE DES MARTYRS DANCOURT RUE 5 6
Steinkerque, which leads to D E C L I C H Y
Starting point: Place Pigalle. Sacré-Coeur gardens, and then Pigalle Anvers
Length: 2.3 km (1.4 miles). The left into Rue d’Orsel, which leads 1 B L V D D E R O C H E C H O U A R T SQUARE
walk goes up some very steep to the leafy square, Place Charles D’ANVERS
streets to the top; if you do not Dullin, where the small early
feel like the climb, consider 19th-century Théâtre de l’Atelier
taking the Montmartrobus, 7 stands. Continue up the hill 2 RUE LALLIER AVENUE TRUDAINE
which covers most of the walk on Rue des Trois Frères and turn RUE VICTOR MASSE
and starts at Place Pigalle. left on Rue Yvonne le Tac, which 4
Getting there: The nearest Metro 3
RUE BOCHART DE SARON
is Pigalle; buses that take you leads to Place des Abbesses 8.
there are Nos. 30, 54 and 67. This is one of the most pleasant
Stopping off points: There are and liveliest squares in the area.
many cafés and shops in Rue It has conserved its entire
Lepic and the Rue des Abbesses. canopied Art Nouveau Metro
Le Saint Jean (16 Place des entrance by Hector Guimard.
Abbesses) remains a locals’ haunt Opposite is St-Jean l’Evangéliste
and serves well-priced brasserie 9, an unusual brick and mosaic
food. For shade and a rest, Place Art Nouveau church. To the
Jean-Baptiste Clément and right of the church a flight of
Square S Buisson at Avenue Junot steep steps leads to the tiny
are charming public squares. Rue André Antoine, where
the Pointillist painter Georges Rue André Antoine 0
270-271_EW_Paris.indd 270 03/04/17 10:57 am
EIGHT GUIDED W ALKS 271
Seurat lived at No. 39 0. Return attractive street of late
to Rue des Abbesses and turn 19th-century villas and gardens.
right at Rue Ravignan. Continue into l’Allée des
Brouillards, a leafy pedestrian
Rue Ravignan alley. No. 6 p was Renoir’s last
From here, there is a sweeping house in Montmartre. Take the
view of Paris. Climb the steps steps down into the Rue Simon
straight ahead to the deeply Dereure and immediately turn
shaded Place Emile Goudeau left into a small park, which can
q. To the left, at No. 13, is the be crossed to reach Avenue
original entrance to the Bateau- Junot. Here, No. 15 a was the
Lavoir, the most important house of Dadaist Tristan Tzara in
cluster of artists’ studios in the early 1920s. Continue up
Montmartre. Here, Picasso lived Avenue Junot, turn right on
and worked in the early 1900s. Walking past Montmartre Vineyard i Rue Girardon and right again
Further up, at the corner of Rue on Rue Lepic.
Orchampt and Rue Ravignan,
Lamarck
Caulaincourt there is a row of picturesque
R U E C A U L A I N C O U R T 19th-century artists’ studios w.
AVENUE JUNOT
p Rue Ravignan to Rue Lepic
RUE S DEREURE o Continue up the hill along the
i RUE SAINT VINCENT small public garden, Place Jean-
SQUARE L’ABREUVOIR
RUE DE
S. BUISSON Baptiste Clément e. At the top,
A V E N UE JUNOT
a u y cross Rue Norvins. Opposite is
RUE LEP IC d s r RUE CORTOT an old restaurant, Auberge de la
f
Bonne Franquette r, which
t used to be a favourite gathering Au Lapin Agile cabaret o
g RUE DURANTIN e PLACE DU place for 19th-century artists.
R D'ORCHAMPT w
TERTRE
Sacré Continue along the narrow Rue Rue Lepic to Place Blanche
Coeur St-Rustique, from where Sacré- At the corner is one of the area’s
q RUE GABRIELLE
Coeur can be seen. At the end few surviving windmills, the
SQUARE and to the right is Place du Moulin du Radet s, now a
LOUISE
MICHEL Tertre t, the main village restaurant confusingly called
RUE LEPIC R U E V E R O N Abbesses WILLETTE square. From here, go north on Moulin de la Galette. Continue
RUE DURANTIN
RUE DES ABBESSES
RUE DES TROIS FRERES
SQUARE
Rue du Mont Cenis and turn left
along Rue Lepic: to the right at
8
the top of a slope is another
to Rue Cortot. Erik Satie, the
h RUE COUSTOU 0 9 RUE Y LE TAC eccentric composer, lived in windmill, the original Moulin
de la Galette d, now a private
No. 6 y, and at No. 12 is the
RUE D’ORSEL
Blanche B O U L E V A R D RU E G E RM A I N P ILO N RUE HOUDON RUE D’ORSEL C DULLIN7 RUE DE STEINKERQUE Musée de Montmartre u. Turn home. Turn left on Rue de
PLACE
l’Armée d’Orient, with its quaint
right on Rue des Saules and
walk past the very pretty
artists’ studios f, and left again
D E C L I C H Y
at No. 54 g in June 1886.
Au Lapin Agile cabaret o at the
Pigalle RUE DES MARTYRS DANCOURT RUE 5 6 Anvers Montmartre vineyard i to the into Rue Lepic. Van Gogh lived
1 B L V D D E R O C H E C H O U A R T D’ANVERS corner of Rue St-Vincent. Go Continue to Place Blanche, and
SQUARE
on Boulevard de Clichy to the
back down Rue des Saules and
RUE LALLIER right on Rue de l’Abreuvoir, an right is the Moulin Rouge h.
2 AVENUE TRUDAINE
RUE VICTOR MASSE
4
3
RUE BOCHART DE SARON
Key
Walk route
0 metres 250
0 yards 250
Moulin Rouge cabaret near the Place Blanche h
For additional keys to symbols see back flap
270-271_EW_Paris.indd 271 03/04/17 10:57 am
272 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk in Buttes-Chaumont
This area in the east of the city is little known to many visitors, garden 0. This is owned by
yet it contains one of Paris’s biggest and most beautiful parks the city but tended by local
and some fascinating architecture. The walk is quite strenuous residents who can often be
with many steps, and takes in a charming micro-village, the found working here.
Butte Bergeyre, which is perched high above the city and has Head back down the Rue
Georges Lardennois to the Rue
unusual houses in contrasting styles. After descending from Michel Tagrine and take the ivy-
the village, the walk continues in Buttes-Chaumont park, a draped steps back down to the
vast hill complete with a lake with a huge island and folly, rocky main road q. Continue straight
outcrops and a wonderful variety of trees and plants. and then turn right onto the
Avenue Mathurin-Moreau,
noting the fine Art Deco building
at No. 42 w with its glittering
gold -coloured tile detail. At
the end of the road, cross R U E M A N I N
Rue Manin to the PLACE A
entrance to CARREL
the park.
o R U E D E C R I M É E
p u PA RC
M A N I N i y DES BUTTES
R U E s t a CHAUMONT
View across the city towards Sacré-Coeur 8 CARREFOUR AVENUE DE LA CASCADE Botzaris
DE LA d
COLONNE R U E B O T Z A R I S
The Butte Bergeyre Bolivar A V ENU E S E C R E T A N r
From the Metro Buttes- 200m (220 yards)
Chaumont 1, take the Rue A VE N UE MAT H URIN MOREAU AVE DE GEN. P LINIER S R U E H A S S AR D
Botzaris, turning right onto the w e
Avenue Simon Bolivar until you Buttes RUE DU P LA TEAU
reach the stairs at No. 54 2, A V E N U E Chaumont
which lead up into the Butte q R U E P H H E C H T 1 R UE P RÉ A U LT
Bergeyre. At the top of the stairs, 7 6 5
pause to absorb the enchanting S I M O 9 RUE R DE GOURMONT 4 R U E FE SSART
atmosphere of this micro-village 8 RUE ED G AR POE R U E M A N I N
of five little streets. Construction N B O L I V A R 0 R UE G . LARDENN OIS 3 R U E B O T Z A R I S
started in the 1920s, but there
RUE BARRELET DE R ICOU
are also some modern buildings. 2
Carry on into the Rue Barrelet de RU E P RAD I ER
Ricou 3 to admire the ivy- R U E L A U Z I N A V E N U E S I M O N B O L I V A R
covered house at No. 13 4,
then continue to the end of the
road to take a left into the Rue
Philippe Hecht 5, where the
chalet-style house at No. 7 6 is
an interesting contrast to the
creeper-covered Art Deco gem
at No. 13 7. At the end of the
street, take a left up to the corner
of the Rue Georges Lardennois
and the Rue Rémy-de-Gourmont
for a wonderful view across the
city 8 of Montmartre with its
wedding-cake Sacré-Coeur on
top. Be sure to admire the tiny
patch of grapevines 9 in the
residents’ garden below. Close
to this mini-vineyard is a small Some of the lovely mature trees in Buttes-Chaumont park
272-273_EW_Paris.indd 272 03/04/17 10:57 am
EIGHT GUIDED W ALKS 273
Tips for Walkers
Starting point: Metro Buttes-
Chaumont.
Length: 2.5 km (1.5 miles).
Note: This is a very steep walk in
parts, with many steps.
Getting there: Go to Buttes-
Chaumont Metro station, on line
7 bis. Or take buses Nos. 26, 60
and 75 to the stop for Buttes-
Chaumont park.
Stopping off points: The park
has its own restaurant, Le Pavillon
du Lac (good Sunday brunch) but
The suspension bridge in Buttes-Chaumont park i there are plenty of benches for
picnicking. La Kaskad opposite
R U E M A N I N Key the park (at 2 Place Armand-
PLACE A Carrel) is a fashionable café for
CARREL Walk route snacks and drinks, with a terrace
that is ideal on a sunny day.
0 metres 200
o R U E D E C R I M É E 0 yards 200 admire the 50-m (164-ft) high
p u PA RC man-made island p. Follow the
M A N I N i y DES BUTTES with steps carved out of lakeshore around until you hear
rushing water. One of the park’s
R U E s t a CHAUMONT the façade; climb them most impressive features is the
to the top. Go on
32-m (105-ft) high waterfall a
hidden inside a grotto. Walk
along a tree-lined
CARREFOUR AVENUE DE LA CASCADE d Botzaris path to join the right up to the waterfall looking
DE LA
COLONNE R U E B O T Z A R I S Avenue du up to see a patch of sky and
Bolivar A V ENU E S E C R E T A N r General Puebla some glorious man-made
200m (220 yards) Liniers and stalactites. Take a stepping-
A VE N UE MAT H URIN MOREAU e AVE DE GEN. P LINIER S R U E H A S S A R D reaching the Carrefour stone to the other side of the
follow this until
cave and then exit and rejoin
w
Buttes
is a red-brick mansion house.
heading left. Ascend the few
R UE DU PLA TEAU
Chaumont de la Colonne r, where there the path round the lake,
q R U E P H H E C H T 1 RUE PRÉ A U LT With your back to this go ahead steps, then veer to the left and
7 6 5 to a little bridge lined with up the hill s. Follow the path
A V E N U E
9 RUE R DE GOURMONT 4 terracotta tiles. Cross the bridge around to the Carrefour de la
8 RUE ED G AR POE R U E M A N I N R U E FE SSART t. Take the right branch of Colonne and continue along
S I M O
steps and head up to the top the Avenue de la Cascade to the
0 3 R U E B O T Z A R I S of the cliff. Cross a tiny bridge exit d. From here, you can take
R UE G . LARDENN OIS
R U E P R A D I ER to the folly u, a copy of the
2 y and turn left up some steps the Metro from Botzaris.
RUE BARRELET DE R ICOU
N B O L I V A R
Temple of Sibyl near Rome. This
is the highest point in the park,
R U E L A U Z I N
providing views across the city
A V E N U E S I M O N B O L I V A R
Clifftop folly, the park’s summit u all the way to Sacré-Coeur.
Now take the path on the right
The Buttes-Chaumont Park back to the first bridge. Then
Commissioned by Napoleon III branch right down the steps
and Baron Haussmann in 1864, within man-made rock to an
the park covers 25 ha (61 acres) impressive 63-m (206-ft) long
and took four years to complete. bridge i. Towering over the
It was built by the engineer lake, this provides wonderful
Adolphe Alphand and the views of the park. The bridge
architect Gabriel Davioud. It is may be closed for repairs, so in
packed with mature trees that instance use the terracotta-
including planes, poplars, ash, tiled bridge as before. Cross the
maples, chestnuts, sequoias and bridge and follow the path
beautiful magnolias. At the down to the lake. The lake o is
entrance to the park there is a encircled by weeping willows
man-made rock structure e and benches from which to Man-made waterfall, inside the grotto a
For additional keys to symbols see back flap
272-273_EW_Paris.indd 273 03/04/17 10:57 am
274 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk in Faubourg St-Antoine
In the east of the city, a few steps away from the bustle of the
Bastille, lies the Faubourg St-Antoine district, traditionally a
working-class neighbourhood full of furniture designers,
carpenters and artisans whose legacy can still be seen today.
From the Place de la Bastille, the walk takes in Paris’s pleasure-
boat port, the artisan area around the Viaduc des Arts – a
former viaduct with arts and crafts studios nestling in the Les Grandes Marches, Place de la Bastille
arches – and on to the Promenade Plantée for a fascinating
tree-filled stroll.
the bridge over to the Boulevard RUE ST ANTOINE
de la Bastille 6. Cross the PLACE
DE LA
boulevard and take a right and Bastille BASTILLE
then left onto the Rue Jules R JACQUES COEUR Bastille
César 7 all the way to the end BOULEV ARD HENR I IV 1
R DU FAUBOURG
of the street, turn left and then o
SAINT ANTOINE
Port de
cross the Rue de Lyon turning R DE LA CERISAIE l'Arsenal
right onto the Avenue
Daumesnil and the start of R U E D E L Y O N
the Viaduc des Arts 8. BOU LE V A RD BOU R D O N 2 R U E D E C H A R E N T O N
Viaduc des Arts R U E D E L ’A RS E N A L i
Port d e Plaisance de Paris A rsenal
In 1859, the Paris Viaduct
was built to take a rail- R I LLON 3 RUE M O RE A U
way line that linked the C u
ROLLIN
The Port de Plaisance, with many Faubourg St-Antoine R U E M OR NAY R U E L A C U E E 8 AVENUE LEDRU
pleasure boats 2 district with the R UE 5 6 9 RUE TRAVERSIERE
suburbs. In 1994, the B O U L E V A R D D E L A B A S T I L L E RU E J U L E S C E S A R 0
Port de Plaisance restored and revamped 7
Tucked away near the traffic of Viaduc des Arts BLVD MORLAND BLVD BOURDON q
Place de la Bastille 1 lies an area opened with 50 shops R DE LYON R U E D E C H A R E N T O N
of tranquillity that’s of interest to and studios nestling A V E
CHASLES
boat-lovers and landlubbers in the bridge’s rose R MICHEL VIADUC DES ARTS (PROMENADE PLANTÉE)
alike. The Port de Plaisance and stone archways. RU E DE B E RC Y w D A U M E S N I L
Paris-Arsenal garden 2 was In keeping with the R PARROT
inaugurated in 1983 to provide tradition of the area, the 4 A V E N U E L E D R U R O L L I N RUE ABEL LEGRAVEREND RUE
R HECTOR
MALOT
a harbour for pleasure craft. ateliers are all linked to the Quai de Gare B O ULE VARD D I DEROT
Linking the Seine to the Canal arts, and some of the city’s la Rapée de Lyon
RUE
St-Martin, the harbour was master craftsmen call the arches PLACE GUILLAUMOT
previously where commercial home. The superb window MAZAS RUE J BOUTON e
barges loaded and unloaded displays at the first studio, r
cargo. Today, it’s a pretty spot full
of yachts, dinghies and Parisians PASSAGE GATBOIS
DE TROYES
out for a stroll. The cobbled RUE CHRETIEN VIADUC DES ARTS (PROMENADE PLANTÉE)
stones on the quayside and old- t
fashioned lampposts add to the RUE DE RAMBOUILLET
port’s atmosphere. The lawns are Montgallet
perfect for a picnic and the A V E N U E D A U M E S N I L 300 metres /
330 yards
children’s play areas, while small, R U E D U C H A R O L A I S
are well stocked with rocking y
chairs, slides and climbing
apparatus 3. Continue to the Bois de Vincennes
3 km / 2 miles
end of the marina to the lock 4. Dugommier
Cross over the lock bridge, 450 metres / 500 yards
observing the pedestrian
crossing sign, and head down on
the other quayside, turning back
towards the Place de la Bastille.
Just before the grey steel bridge
5, take the stairs up and then Place de la Bastille, with the impressive Opéra National de Paris Bastille 1
274-275_EW_Paris.indd 274 25/04/16 4:47 pm
EIGHT GUIDED W ALKS 275
Maison Guillet 9, give a hint of
the quality of craftsmanship to
come. Guillet specializes in
providing silk flowers for Paris’s
top theatre and fashion houses.
The Ateliers du Temps Passé 0 at
No. 5 is a restorer of paintings,
while Lorenove at No. 11 restores
period glass. No. 13 is the base
for fashionable interior designer
Cherif, and the whimsical Le
Bonheur des Dames q at No. 17
provides all sorts of materials for
embroidery fans. For refresh-
ment, stop at the Viaduc Café at One of the arts and crafts shop fronts under the Viaduc des Arts 8
RUE ST ANTOINE
PLACE No. 43 w, which serves simple “botanical sculptures”. Moving on woods. For a longer walk, turn
DE LA
R JACQUES COEUR
BASTILLE
Bastille
meals and hearty salads to the
BOULEV ARD HENR I IV l'Arsenal 1 o Bastille area’s hip creatives. Vertical at past the metal furniture- maker right along the Promenade and
No. 63 e mixes art and
Baguès at 73, the antique lace
follow it to the city’s edge and
R DU FAUBOURG
restorer Marie Lavande at No. 83
the woods. Or turn left and head
nature with twisting
SAINT ANTOINE
Port de
back towards the Bastille. This
and the Atelier Le Tallec at Nos.
R DE LA CERISAIE
93/ 95, which specializes in hand-
narrow walkway offers wonderful
R U E D E L ’A RS E N A L BOU LE V A RD BOU R D O N 2 i R U E D E L Y O N R U E D E C H A R E N T O N painted porcelain, it is clear that views of the rooftops and
the spirit of the old artisans’ area
apartments. With roses, lavender
is alive and well. For those of a
and maples, the walkway is a
delight. At the Bastille end u,
musical bent, Allain Cadinot
Port de Plaisan ce de Pari s Arsenal
repairs and sells Boehm flutes at
take the steps down to the Rue
Bastille Metro, pausing to
violins and cellos No. 103 r. With
C R I LLON 3 R U E L A C U E E 8 u RUE MO RE A U No. 99, while Roger Lanne makes de Lyon i leading to the
ROLLIN
R U E M OR NAY
R UE 5 B O U L E V A R D D E L A B A S T I L L E R UE J UL ES CE SA R 9 0 AVENUE LEDRU RUE TRAVERSIERE the coppersmith at No. 111, the ponder the modern architecture
terracotta tile specialist at No. 113
of the Opéra National de Paris
6
BLVD BOURDON 7 R DE LYON q A V E R U E D E C H A R E N T O N you are close to the end of
Bastille o (see p102).
and the frame-maker at No. 117,
the viaduct, where the last
atelier, Jean-Charles
BLVD MORLAND
R PARROT
RUE ABEL
RU E DE B E RC Y
4 A V E N U E L E D R U R O L L I N R MICHEL CHASLES VIADUC DES ARTS (PROMENADE PLANTÉE)
R HECTOR
MALOT
w D A U M E S N I L
RUE
Quai de Gare B O ULE VARD D I DEROT
la Rapée de Lyon RUE
LEGRAVEREND
PLACE GUILLAUMOT
MAZAS RUE J BOUTON
e
r
Tips for Walkers PASSAGE GATBOIS Promenade Plantée,
DE TROYES
Starting point: Bastille Metro. RUE CHRETIEN VIADUC DES ARTS (PROMENADE PLANTÉE) a lovely rooftop-level
Length: 2.6 km (1.6 miles). t walkway y
Getting there: Bastille Metro is RUE DE RAMBOUILLET
served by lines 1, 8 and 5. Bus
Montgallet
Nos. 29, 65, 69, 76, 86, 87, 91 and Brosseau A V E N U E D A U M E S N I L 300 metres /
more. Get off at “Place de la t, perhaps R U E D U C H A R O L A I S 330 yards
Bastille” stop. sums up the street’s y
Stopping off points: The area is diversity, specializing in
full of great cafés, bars and Bois de Vincennes
restaurants. Les Grandes Marches making hats, scent and cutlery. 3 km / 2 miles
Dugommier
(Place de la Bastille) is a chic place 450 metres / 500 yards
for lunch, dinner or just coffee Promenade Plantée Key
before you start or afterwards. Turn left, follow the signs and Walk route
Nearby Rue de Charonne is lined take the steps up to the Detour route
with some fun bars. During the Promenade Plantée y, a walk-
walk, take a break at the Viaduc way on top of the viaduct. It is 0 metres
Café (43 Viaduc des Arts). 4.5km (2.8 miles) long and goes 200
all the way to the Vincennes 0 yards 200
For additional keys to symbols see back flap
274-275_EW_Paris.indd 275 25/04/16 4:47 pm
276 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk in Butte-aux-Cailles
This walk takes place in and around the Butte-aux-Cailles, a unremarkable yet was the site of
lovely “village” set on a hill that is all quiet streets, leafy squares a major street battle in May 1871.
and buzzy local bistros. The area made history in 1783 when Continue up the Rue de la Butte-
the first manned balloon flight touched down here. In the aux-Cailles. Les Abeilles at No. 21
e is a curious store dedicated to
1800s, it was home to many workers from the small factories in bee-keeping and a delight for
the area and was one of the first areas to fight during the Paris honey lovers. Pancakes in the
Commune. However, it only really developed after 1910 and old-fashioned crêperie Des
the architecture reflects the social ideals of the day – that Crêpes et des Cailles at No. 13
individual houses and green spaces aid health. may satisfy if you are just
peckish, but further down at
No. 18 is the area’s best-known
restaurant, Le Temps de Cerises
r. Fittingly, as it’s only a few
minutes’ walk from the Place
de la Commune, it’s run
as a co-operative and is PLACE
also the unofficial D ’ I T AL IE
neighbourhood HQ. Place 1
d’Italie
Corvisart A U G U S T E B L A N Q U I 3 2
RUE PERE GUERIN
R PAULIN MERY
B O U L E V A R D
Quiet, cobbled streets typify the Butte-aux-Cailles q 5 CINQ DIAMANTS RUE GERARD 4 MOULIN DES PRES RUE DU RUE BOBILLOT
Buttes-aux-Cailles books and pamphlets on R U E B A R R A UL T P A SSA GE B ARR AU LT RUE DES A V E N U E D ' I T A L I E A V E N U E D E C H O I S Y
Take the “Auguste Blanqui” exit that bloody episode in 6 RUE SAMSON RUE SIMONET
out of the Place d’Italie Metro Parisian history. Turn R U E AL PH A N D 8 7
t
station 1, noting the Guimard right into the Passage 9 DAVIEL R U E D E L A B U T TE A U X CA I L L E S R UE V A NDREZA N NE RUE DES
RUE
decoration. Follow the bustling Barrault, a cobbled VILLA DAVIEL PA r u PL. PAUL DEUX AVENUES
Rue Bobillot until you reach the alleyway with ivy- q w RUE DE POUY RUE CHÉREAU y VERLAINE
Rue Paulin-Méry 2 and take covered walls and a e SSAGE BOITON R D i
your first steps into the peace of countryside feel 8. At 0 RU E MICH A L RUE BUOT R U E DU M O U LINET RUE TOUSSAINT FERON
the Butte-aux-Cailles. The the end of the passage, RUE DE L’ESPÉRANCE R U E B O B I L L O T RUE DU
contrast is surprising as you walk turn left onto the Rue R U E M A R T I N B E R N A Tolbiac
the quiet, narrow, cobbled Barrault and continue R U E D E T O L B I A C d
streets with their old-fashioned up the street until the R U E D E T O L B I A C
street lamps. Note the painted right turn into the Rue
shutters on No. 5 3 and the Daviel. At 10 Rue Daviel, the row o
SQ. DES
trees in the small garden in front of cottages known as “Little PEUPLIERS MOULIN DES PRES RUE E ET A V E
of the house opposite. Alsace” 9 because of their H ROUSSELLE
Continue straight ahead, chalet style is, in fact, one of
cross over the Rue du the first public p PAPE R U E D A M E S M E
Moulin-des-Prés and housing schemes in RUE DES PEUPLIERS RU E H RUE DU DR LAU R ENT N U E D ' I T A L I E
turn left into the Rue Paris. The public can a RUE DU MOULIN DE LA POINTE
Gérard past the red- visit their intimate R DIEULAFOY
brick terraces and courtyards during the s
plant-decked villas day. Opposite, walk R U E D R L E R A Y
4. Keep on into the Road sign in the Butte- aux- down the Villa Daviel R UE B O U R G O N
Rue Samson and Cailles area 0, a tiny street of
then turn right onto terraces with small
the Rue Jonas and left onto the front gardens overflowing with
Rue des Cinq Diamants 5. At greenery. Retrace your steps back
No. 43 6 there is a hip Franco- up to the Rue Barrault, turn left
Thai restaurant, Le 43. Those and then right onto the artery of
interested in history may the area, the Rue de la Butte-aux-
appreciate the Association des Cailles q. Head up the street to
Amis de la Commune de Paris at the Place de la Commune de
No. 46 7, which sells T-shirts, Paris w, which today looks Les Abeilles, for honey enthusiasts e
276-277_EW_Paris.indd 276 25/04/16 4:47 pm
EIGHT GUIDED W ALKS 277
Tips for Walkers
Starting point: Place d’Italie
Metro.
Length: 2.6 km (1.6 miles).
Getting there: Start from the
Place d’Italie Metro via lines 5, 6
or 7. Or take bus No. 27, 47, 57, 67
or 83 and get off at the stop
“Place d’Italie”.
Stopping off points: The Rue de
la Butte-aux-Cailles is full of great
cafés and restaurants. Le Temps
des Cerises (No. 18) is very
Le Temps des Cerises, full of bohemian atmosphere r atmospheric, while Fusion (No.
12) is devoted to fusion cuisine.
At the end of the road is the On Rue des Cinq Diamants, Chez
Place Paul Verlaine t. On the Gladines (No. 30) is a great bet for
other side of the square is the a good lunch, while Les Cailloux
PLACE red-brick Art Nouveau (No. 58) is a chic option.
D ’ I T AL IE swimming pool y. Built in 1924,
Place 1 it houses one indoor
d’Italie pool and two lovely des-Prés. Head down
Corvisart A U G U S T E B L A N Q U I 3 2 areas. Take the steps in interesting rough stone
the street, noting the
outdoor swimming
RUE PERE GUERIN
front of the building to
houses p, and go
R PAULIN MERY
find the modern
straight, past an
R UE G E R A R D
unusual purple Art
fountain on the square
B O U L E V A R D
Nouveau-style house
4
R U E B A R R A UL T P A SSA GE B ARR AU LT RUE DES 5 CINQ DIAMANTS RUE SIMONET MOULIN DES PRES RUE DU RUE BOBILLOT A V E N U E D ' I T A L I E A V E N U E D E C H O I S Y u. This is supplied by Crêpes et des Cailles Damesme, turn right
Le Puits Artésian, a
at No. 104 a. Take a
local well 580 m
right onto the Rue
Crêpes from Des
(1,902 ft) deep,
into the Rue du Docteur
dating from
R UE D E L A B U T T E AU X CA I L L E S
locals queuing to fill
Rue Dieulafoy s. Here are several
RUE DES
9 DAVIEL R U E A LP HA ND 8 7 6 RUE SAMSON t R UE V A NDREZA N NE DEUX AVENUES 1863. You may see Leray and then right again onto
RUE
VILLA DAVIEL q PA r RUE CHÉREAU u PL. plastic bottles here. unique, colourful cottages with
PAUL
VERLAINE
w RUE DE POUY y Exit the square, flower-filled front gardens behind
take a right and
railings. At the end of the row,
RUE DE L’ESPÉRANCE R U E M A R T I N B E R N A R U E B O B I L L O T RUE DU Tolbiac restaurant Chez Nathalie Pape, a left onto the Rue
0 RUE BUOT e SSAGE BOITON R D i RU E DU MO U LINET RUE TOUSSAINT FERON then another take a right onto the Rue Henri
right past the chic
RUE MI C H A L
Damesme, walk up to the Rue de
with its flowery terrace,
busy, Paris. Turn right and walk
R U E D E T O L B I A C R U E D E T O L B I A C d which is always packed in Tolbiac and back out into modern,
summer, into the Rue up to the Metro Tolbiac d.
o Vandrezanne, continuing
SQ. DES MOULIN DES PRES A V E down this pedestrianized
PEUPLIERS H ROUSSELLE street into the passage
RUE DES PEUPLIERS RU E H a R U E D A M E S M E RUE DU DR LAU R ENT N U E D ' I T A L I E Vandrezanne, a steep cobbled
RUE E ET
RUE DU MOULIN DE LA POINTE
p PAPE
alleyway with antiquated
lampposts i. Cross over the
Rue du Moulinet and take the
s R DIEULAFOY Rue du Moulin des Prés until
you come to the Rue de
R U E D R L E R A Y
R U E B O U RGON Tolbiac. Cross this busy road,
then take a right, stepping back
into another time at the Square
des Peupliers o. Built in 1926,
Key each house is different, reflecting
the ideals of the time. All have
Walk route
pretty little gardens, most have
lovely Art Nouveau porches and
the ornate gilded lampposts are
0 metres 200
very special. Leave the Square
0 yards 200 des Peupliers and take a right Square des Peupliers, with its unique
back onto the Rue du Moulin- houses o
For additional keys to symbols see back flap
276-277_EW_Paris.indd 277 25/04/16 4:47 pm
278-279_EW_Paris.indd 278 25/04/16 4:19 pm
TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 280–287
Where to Eat and Drink 288–311
Shops and Markets 312–331
Entertainment in Paris 332–351
Children’s Paris 352–355
278-279_EW_Paris.indd 279 25/04/16 4:19 pm
280 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Paris has more guest rooms than almost any also mean a town hall (hôtel de ville), hospital
other city in Europe. Its hotels vary from (Hôtel-Dieu) or mansion. A wide range of
magnificent luxury operations like Le Meurice hotels, listed under five themes – luxury,
and Four Seasons George V (the French call charming (hôtels de charme), design, romantic,
them palaces) to much simpler hotels that are and self-catering and bed-and-breakfasts –
nevertheless full of charm. It is worth noting and in three price brackets, are reviewed on
that hôtel does not always mean “hotel”. It can pages 284–7.
Where to Look The Left Bank covers some of
Hotels in Paris tend to cluster the most popular tourist areas
by type in particular areas. As and has an excellent range of
a very broad generalization, small hotels of great character.
luxury and big-business hotels The atmosphere subtly changes
tend to be on the Right Bank from the much-upgraded Latin
and hôtels de charme are on Quarter and the chic and arty
the Left Bank. areas north and south of
In the fashionable districts Boulevard St-Germain to the
near the Champs-Elysées and rather tatty Boulevard itself
the Opéra Garnier lie many of and the staid institutional
the city’s grandest hotels, area towards Les Invalides
including Le Bristol, the Four and the Eiffel Tower. The
Seasons George V and Le hotels tend to reflect this.
Meurice (see p284). Several less Further from the centre,
well known but elegant hotels Montparnasse has several
can be found in the residential large business hotels in high-
and ambassadorial quarter near rise blocks, and the Porte de
the Palais de Chaillot. Versailles area to the south is Bathroom with charming murals in
To the east, still on the Right usually packed with trade fair Les Degrés de Notre Dame (see p285)
Bank, in the Marais, a number participants. The station areas
of old mansions have been around Gare du Nord and or mid-afternoon. If the hotels
converted into exceptionally Gare de Lyon offer a number of are fully booked, try again
attractive boutique hotels, such basic hotels (choose carefully). after 6pm, when unclaimed
as Le Pavillon de la Reine (see Montmartre has some pleasant provisional bookings become
p284). The nearby areas around hotels if you don’t mind the hilly free. Don’t rely on the
Les Halles and Rue St-Denis, location, and a number of hip impression of a hotel given
however, tend to be seedy and designer hotels have opened in by the reception desk; ask
attract prostitutes and drug rapidly gentrifying South Pigalle. to see the room offered. For
addicts. Just south of the Marais, If you are looking for a hotel airport hotels, see p369.
across the Seine, the Ile St-Louis in person, the best times for
has several lovely hotels. inspecting are late morning
Hotel Prices
Hotel prices aren’t always
cheaper in low season (mid-
November to March; July
and August), because fashion
shows and other major events
throughout the year can
pack rooms, raising prices.
However, in the older hotels,
differences in the size and
position of rooms can have
a marked effect on cost.
Twin rooms are slightly more
expensive than double rooms;
single occupancy rates are as
high or nearly as high as for
two people sharing (tariffs
are almost always quoted
per room, not per person).
Façade of the chic Hôtel D’Aubusson (see p284) Rooms without a bath tend
Le Consulat restaurant on Rue Norvins, Montmartre
280-283_EW_Paris.indd 280 03/04/17 10:57 am
WHERE T O ST A Y 281
to be about 20 per cent
cheaper than those with.
It is always worth trying
to negotiate a discount. In
some hotels, special deals are
offered, especially for students,
families and senior citizens.
Discounts are often available
when booking online or
when booking a package trip.
Hidden Extras
By law, tax and service must be
included in the price quoted
or displayed at the reception
desk or in the rooms. Tips are
unnecessary other than for
exceptional service, such as if
the concierge books you a show,
or if the maid does some laundry
for you. Before you make a
reservation, establish whether
breakfast is included in the
price. Beware of extras such as
drinks or snacks in your room, A suite at the historic Lancaster (see p287)
especially from a mini-bar,
which will probably be pricey, of accommodation are in the bedroom; most also have
as will laundry services, garage unclassified. Star ratings provide a television. Business facilities
parking and telephone calls an indication of the level of such as conference rooms and
from your room. Some hotels facilities you can expect – for equipment are available in
make an extra charge for Wi-Fi. example, any hotel with more grander hotels, and Wi-Fi is
Check the hotel’s cancellation than three stars should have a standard. Two people who
policy – some hotels charge a lift. Increasingly, the French are sharing can specify
fee for cancellation less than rating system also tries to take whether they want a double
24 or 48 hours before the start account of such factors as room bed (grand lit) or twin beds
of the booking. size, service, attentiveness of (lits jumeaux).
the staff, cleanliness, dining
options and decor.
Hotel Gradings Travelling with Children
French hotels are classified by Families with young children
the tourist authorities into five Facilities will often find they can share a
broad categories: one to five Few Parisian hotels below room at no or very little extra
stars. Some very simple types a four-star rating have a cost. Few hotels refuse to
restaurant, although there is accept children, though facilities
nearly always a breakfast room. specifically for children are not
Many hotel restaurants close in universal. Some hotels will
August. Older hotels may also arrange babysitting.
lack a public lounge area. More
modern or expensive hotels have Apartments
correspondingly better facilities
and usually some kind of bar. Staying in an apartment is an
Inexpensive hotels may not increasingly popular alternative
have a lift – this can be a big to staying in a hotel, especially
drawback when you are if you are in Paris for more than
dragging suitcases upstairs. a few days or travelling with
Usually, only the more children, and it can often work
expensive hotels have parking. out cheaper too. With the
If you are driving, you may advent of websites such as
prefer to stay in one of the airbnb, which allows home
peripheral motel-style chains owners to rent out rooms in
(see pp282 & 283). their houses or apartments,
All but the very simplest of the choice of accommodation
Four Seasons George V (see p284) city hotels will have a telephone has grown enormously.
280-283_EW_Paris.indd 281 03/04/17 10:57 am
282 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
Ibis and Choice Hotels. These
establishments are practical,
relatively inexpensive and
useful if you have a car, but
they lack any real Parisian
atmosphere or character.
Many are in drab locations
on busy roads and may suffer
from traffic noise. The newer
motels of these chains are
smarter and better equipped
than the older ones.
Several chains – Sofitel,
Novotel and Mercure – are
geared to business travellers,
providing better facilities at
higher prices; indeed, some
of the more central ones are
positively luxurious. Reductions
can make these hotels good
value at weekends. Many of
them have restaurants attached.
Le Meurice in the Tuileries Quarter (see p284)
Hostels
Airbnb is a good place to Good Morning Paris offers
start – you’ll find anything from more than 100 guest rooms, There are several hostel
studio garrets to luxurious five- many in central locations. A organizations in Paris. The
bedroom houses. Housetrip is two-night minimum stay is Maisons Internationales de
another good bet, with around required when booking. France- la Jeunesse et des Etudiants
1,600 apartments listed. There Lodge has some good-value (MIJE) provides dormitory rooms
are also a number of more B&Bs on its books, and online for those aged from 18 to their
traditional lettings agencies, service misterb&b specializes in early 30s in three splendid 17th-
including At Home in Paris, LGBT-friendly homestays. century mansions in the Marais.
Haven in Paris and Holiday Bookings can be made online.
France Rentals. The Bureau Voyage Jeunesse
Also worth considering is the Chain Hotels (BVJ) has two hostels with
Citadines Apart’hotel chain, A mushroom crop of motel- double rooms and dormitory
which offers fully furnished style establishments on the accommodation, breakfast and
studios and apartments with outskirts of Paris accommodates luggage room facilities. Ethic
kitchens in several central Paris large numbers of both business Etapes has five centres in and
locations. Some hotel-type and leisure visitors. The budget around Paris with individual,
facilities are available, including chains – such as Formule 1, shared and dormitory rooms.
laundry services, breakfast and Première Classe and Fasthôtel – The Fédération Unie des
babysitting, for an extra fee. really have nothing except price Auberges de Jeunesse (FUAJ)
to recommend them. Higher is a member of the International
up the ladder are Campanile, Youth Hostels Federation.
Bed-and-Breakfast
The bed-and-breakfast, that
typically British phenomenon,
is known as chambre d’hôte
or café-couette (“coffee and
a quilt”) in France. B&B
accommodation is generally
available at moderate prices,
between €65 and €110 for a
double room per night. Alcôve
& Agapes offers rooms in some
enviable districts of Paris, all
within walking distance of a
Metro station. It is worth
enquiring about suites and
rooms with a private lounge,
kitchen or terrace. All homes
are routinely inspected. The wooden-beamed dining area inside Jeu de Paume (see p284)
280-283_EW_Paris.indd 282 03/04/17 10:57 am
WHERE T O ST A Y 283
If you aren’t too fussy about
where you stay, or if all the
hotels are full, you can book
via the tourist office’s airport
or train station information
desks (see p358), but only in
person and for the same day.
Recommended Hotels
The hotels on pages 284–7
of this guide are a selection
of the best luxury, de charme,
design and romantic hotels
in Paris. They are first listed
according to type, and then
by area and by price. Most
of the hotels are spread across
The courtyard of the Relais Christine (see p284) the main tourist areas,
although some that are further
There is no age limit at their by at least a month. The afield have been included if
three Paris area hostels. hotels listed on pages 284–7 they offer particularly good
St Christopher’s Paris, on are among the best in their value for money, facilities,
the Canal St-Martin, provides category and will fill particularly service or charm. The selection
excellent facilities and also quickly. The best way is to also includes B&Bs and self-
offers tours of Paris. Prices at make a reservation directly catering apartments. What
most of the hostels start at with the hotel. Some hotels they all have in common is
around €30 per night. offer special deals for visitors that they are more than just
who book online. If you reserve a bed for the night – they
by phone, you will be asked for have something extra that
How to Book either your credit card number makes it worth seeking them
Paris is busiest at Christmas (from which any cancellation out. Throughout the listings,
and New Year, and during fee may be deducted) or a certain hotels have been
France’s school breaks, around deposit (arrhes), which can marked DK Choice – these
Easter and October. Tourists be as much as the price of offer an exceptional
pour in from May to September, a night’s stay. experience, such as beautiful
but Parisians pour out en masse If you prefer to use an agency, rooms, a historic setting,
in August, when many shops Ely 12 12 can book hotels and superlative service, spectacular
and restaurants close. other kinds of accommodation, views, a fabulous spa, family-
If you have decided on a as well as excursions such as friendly amenities or a
hotel, it is vital to book ahead boat trips along the Seine. combination of these.
DIRECTORY
Apartments Housetrip Hostels Maisons
∑ housetrip.com Internationales de
Airbnb Bureau Voyage la Jeunesse et des
∑ airbnb.com Bed-and- Jeuness (BVJ) Etudiants (MIJE)
At Home in Paris Breakfast 20 Rue Jean-Jacques 13 Boulevard
Tel 01 42 12 40 40. Rousseau 75001. Beaumarchais 75004.
∑ athomeinparis.fr Alcôve & Agapes Tel 01 53 00 90 90.
Tel 07 64 08 42 77. Tel 01 42 74 23 45.
Citadines Apart’hotel ∑ bed-and-breakfast- ∑ bvj-hotel.com ∑ mije.com
Tel 01 41 05 79 05. in-paris.com Ethic Etapes –
∑ citadines.com St Christopher’s Paris
France-Lodge FIAP Jean Monnet 159 Rue de Crimée 75019.
Haven In Paris Tel 01 56 33 85 85/80. 3 Rue Cabanis 75014. Tel 01 40 34 34 40.
Tel 617 395 42 43 (US). ∑ francelodge.fr Tel 01 43 13 17 00. ∑ st-christophers.co.uk
∑ haveninparis.com ∑ ethic-etapes.fr
Good Morning Paris
Holiday France Tel 01 47 07 28 29. FUAJ – Booking Agencies
Rentals ∑ goodmorning
Tel 01 55 37 97 36 paris.fr Le d’Artagnan Ely 12 12
or 06 08 07 46 98. 80 Rue Vitruve 75020. 182 Rue du Faubourg St-
∑ holidays-france- misterb&b Tel 01 40 32 34 56. Honoré 75008. Tel 01 43
rentals.com ∑ misterbandb.com ∑ fuaj.org 59 12 12. ∑ ely1212.com
280-283_EW_Paris.indd 283 03/04/17 10:57 am
284 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
Where to Stay
Champs-Elysées and Price Guide
Luxury Chaillot Quarter Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Ile de la Cité and Keppler €€ inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Ile St-Louis 10 Rue Keppler, 75116 € under €150
Tel 01 47 20 65 05 Map 4 E5 €€ €150–€300
Jeu de Paume €€€ ∑ keppler.fr €€€ over €300
54 Rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004 A super-chic hotel, with bold
Tel 01 43 26 14 18 Map 13 C4 black-and-white decor, offering
∑ jeudepaumehotel.com classic comfort. The rooms
A beamed building dating from contain beautiful antiques. Hôtels de Charme
the early 17th century has been
transformed into a rustic-chic Le Bristol €€€ Beaubourg and
hotel with luxurious rooms. 112 Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 75008 The Marais
Tel 01 53 43 43 00 Map 5 A4
Beaubourg and ∑ lebristolparis.com Hôtel du 7e Art €
The Marais Antiques, Flemish tapestries and 20 Rue St-Paul, 75004
chandeliers fill this elegant hotel. Tel 01 44 54 85 00 Map 14 D4
Enjoy a dip in the luxurious pool. ∑ paris-hotel-7art.com
DK Choice Four Seasons George V €€€ An homage to old movies, with
framed film posters everywhere.
Le Pavillon de la Reine €€€ 31 Avenue George V, 75008 Snug bar and modest bedrooms.
28 Place des Vosges, 75003 Tel 01 49 52 70 00 Map 4 E5
Tel 01 40 29 19 19 Map 14 D3 ∑ fourseasons.com/paris Britannique €€
∑ pavillon-de-la-reine.com An icon. The glamour and glitz of 20 Avenue Victoria, 75001
Overlooking the city’s most the original George V is enhanced Tel 01 42 33 74 59 Map 13 A3
beautiful square, this hotel has by modern Four Seasons luxury. ∑ hotel-britannique.fr
an unrivalled setting. The Seascapes and other naval details
17th-century mansion, once adorn this hotel with a British feel.
home to Anne of Austria, has St-Germain and
been modernized in elegant Latin Quarter Caron de Beaumarchais €€
country-house style, with plush, 12 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75004
romantic bedrooms and a Hôtel d’Aubusson €€€ Tel 01 42 72 34 12 Map 13 C3
pampering spa. It also has a 33 Rue Dauphine, 75006 ∑ carondebeaumarchais.com
peaceful small garden. Tel 01 43 29 43 43 Map 12 F4 The 18th-century theme here
∑ hoteldaubusson.com comes alive with colourful fabrics
Four-star comfort in a 17th-century and dainty upholstered furniture.
stone house with a courtyard.
Tuileries, Opéra and
Montmartre Relais Christine €€€ Tuileries, Opéra and
3 Rue Christine, 75006 Montmartre
Mandarin Oriental €€€ Tel 01 40 51 60 80 Map 12 F4
251 Rue St-Honoré, 75001 ∑ relais-christine.com L’Ermitage Sacre-Coeur €
Tel 01 70 98 78 88 Map 12 D1 A luxurious and intimate haven of 24 Rue Lamarck, 75018
∑ mandarinoriental.com/paris calm with a panelled salon and a Tel 01 42 64 79 22 Map 7 A1
The rooms here are very private garden. ∑ ermitagesacrecoeur.fr
comfortable, with Art Deco Murals by the artist Roland Dubuc
and Oriental details. Eastern decorate this delightful hotel.
service and Parisian style provide
a winning combination. Hôtel Chopin €
46 Passage Jouffroy, 75009
Le Meurice €€€ Tel 01 47 70 58 10 Map 6 F4
228 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 ∑ hotelchopin.fr
Tel 01 44 58 10 10 Map 12 D1 A popular hotel, located in a
∑ dorchestercollection.com 19th-century glass-roofed arcade.
The last word in Empire-style
luxury, this is the most stylish of Brighton €€
the city’s grande dame hotels: a 218 Rue de Rivoli, 75001
palace with glitzy rooms, glorious Tel 01 47 03 61 61 Map 12 D1
views and a luxurious spa. ∑ paris-hotel-brighton.com
Enjoy views of the Tuileries amid
W Paris – Opéra €€€ faux marble columns and
4 Rue Meyerbeer, 75009 chandeliers. Family-friendly.
Tel 01 77 48 94 94 Map 6 E4
∑ wparisopera.com Mansart €€
France’s first W has a cool, young 5 Rue des Capucines, 75001
vibe. It’s a combination of 1870s Tel 01 42 61 50 28 Map 6 D5
features and witty modern ∑ paris-hotel-mansart.com
furnishings, with comfortable The Caron de Beaumarchais, with its The antique-filled bedrooms here
beds and excellent cocktails. delightful 18th-century decor have plenty of character.
284-287_EW_Paris.indd 284 03/04/17 10:57 am
WHERE T O ST A Y 285
Further Afield
Hôtel du Nord €
47 Rue Albert Thomas, 75010
Tel 01 42 01 66 00 Map 8 D5
∑ hoteldunord-leparivelo.com
A cosy, modest hotel with pretty,
distinctive rooms and bicycles for
guests to use.
Hôtel de la Porte Dorée €
273 Avenue Daumesnil, 75012
Tel 01 43 07 56 97
∑ hoteldelaportedoree.com
Traditional elegance: cosy rooms
with beautiful furniture, antiques
and trompe-l’oeil murals.
Langlois €€
The tranquil summer garden at Le Bristol 63 Rue St-Lazare, 75009
Tel 01 48 74 78 24 Map 6 D3
Champs-Elysées and Luxembourg and ∑ hotel-langlois.com
Chaillot Quarter Montparnasse Housed in a former 19th-century
bank, this traditional hotel offers
Nicolo €€ Lenox Montparnasse € bags of character and Belle
3 Rue Nicolo, 75116 15 Rue Delambre, 75014 Epoque and Art Nouveau decor.
Tel 01 42 88 83 40 Map 9 A2 Tel 01 43 35 34 50 Map 16 D2
∑ hotel-nicolo.fr ∑ paris-hotel-lenox.com Manoir de Beauregard €€
A blissfully quiet hotel crammed This intimate hotel near the 43 Rue des Lilas, 75019
with antique furniture, Oriental Montparnasse brasseries has Tel 01 42 03 10 20
rugs and huge wildlife prints. an Old World charm. There is an ∑ manoir-de-beauregard-paris.com
honesty bar in the lounge. A B&B in a fine 18th-century
manor with a formal garden.
St-Germain and DK Choice
Latin Quarter La Manufacture €€
Hôtel des Académies et 8 Rue Philippe de Champagne, 75013
Les Degrés de Notre Dame €€ des Arts €€ Tel 01 45 35 45 25 Map 17 C4
10 Rue des Grands Degrés, 75005 15 Rue de la Grande Chaumière, ∑ hotel-la-manufacture.com
Tel 01 55 42 88 88 Map 13 B4 75006 A smart, modern hotel
∑ lesdegreshotel.com Tel 01 43 26 66 44 Map 16 D2 in a 19th-century building,
A vintage charmer: attractive ∑ hotel-des-academies.com with warm wood floors and
beamed bedrooms lead off a Two artists have created attractive decor.
frescoed staircase. an original look for this
captivating hotel. Jerôme Résidence Foch €€
Hôtel de Fleurie €€ Mesnager’s joyful painted 10 Rue Marbeau, 75116
32–34 Rue Grégoire de Tours, 75006 silhouettes of dancers and Tel 01 45 00 46 50 Map 3 B4
Tel 01 53 73 70 00 Map 12 F4 acrobats decorate the walls, ∑ foch-paris-hotel.com
∑ hoteldefleurieparis.com while sculptor Sophie de Historical prints decorate
The statue-adorned façade draws Watrigant’s equally charming the walls and fabrics at this
you into this hotel, and its figures adorn the hotel stair- intimate hotel.
modern comforts keep you there. case. The bedrooms, tearoom
and spa have a refined feel. La Villa Paris €€
Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles €€ 33 Rue de la Fontaine à Mulard, 75013
75 Rue Cardinal Lemoine, 75005 Tel 01 43 47 15 66
Tel 01 43 26 79 23 Map 17 B1 Hotel Sainte-Beuve €€ ∑ la-villa-paris.com
∑ hotel-grandes-ecoles.com 9 Rue Ste-Beuve, 75006 Enjoy all the comforts of home
A hotel that exudes old-fashioned Tel 01 45 48 20 07 Map 16 D1 at this B&B in a 1920s house.
charm. The garden is perfect for ∑ hotelsaintebeuve.com Rooms are luxurious with
summer breakfasts. Low-key but with an inherent refined decor.
sense of style, the Sainte-Beuve
Hôtel St-Paul Rive Gauche €€ has colourful bedrooms with free
43 Rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006 Wi-Fi. A log fire burns in the
Tel 01 43 26 98 64 Map 12 F5 lovely salon in winter. Design
∑ hotelsaintpaulparis.com
Stone walls and beams at this Récamier €€€ Champs-Elysées and
hotel offer a country vibe. Stylish 3 bis Place St-Sulpice, 75006 Chaillot Quarter
rooms, some with four-poster beds. Tel 01 43 26 04 89 Map 12 E5
∑ hotelrecamier.com Le A €€
Verneuil €€ This small but perfectly formed 4 Rue d’Artois, 75008
8 Rue de Verneuil, 75007 hotel in a quiet location offers Tel 01 42 56 99 99 Map 5 A4
Tel 01 42 60 82 14 Map 12 D3 neat rooms with iPod docks and ∑ hotel-le-a.com
∑ hotel-verneuil-saint-germain.com LCD TVs, plus impeccable service. Bold murals and a monochromatic
Cosy rooms, antiques, books and Modern artworks are scattered theme feature in this stylish,
objets d’art, at this homely hotel. throughout the building. cutting-edge hotel.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 280–83
284-287_EW_Paris.indd 285 03/04/17 10:57 am
286 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
Beaubourg and
The Marais
DK Choice
Le Petit Moulin €€
29–31 Rue du Poitou, 75003
Tel 01 42 74 10 10 Map 14 D2
∑ hotelpetitmoulinparis.com
The oldest boulangerie in Paris
now houses a tiny, eccentric
hotel designed by Christian
Lacroix. The 17 distinctive
rooms display the same love
of colour and opulence that
shapes his fashion designs.
Refined elegance at the Duc de Saint Simon All are wildly romantic, with
audacious murals.
Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière €€€ Seven €€
46 Avenue George V, 75008 20 Rue Berthollet, 75005
Tel 01 40 69 60 00 Map 4 E5 Tel 01 43 31 47 52 Map 17 A2
∑ hotelsbarriere.com ∑ sevenhotelparis.com Tuileries, Opéra and
A very hip, modern hotel with With a space-age design, this Montmartre
Surrealist design touches. chic hotel has fibre-optic lighting
and themed rooms. Le Relais Montmartre €€
6 Rue Constance, 75018
Invalides and Tel 01 70 64 25 25 Map 6 E1
Eiffel Tower Quarter Luxembourg and ∑ hotel-relais-montmartre.com
Montparnasse Arranged around a diminutive
Mayet €€ courtyard, this welcoming hotel’s
3 Rue Mayet, 75006 Apostrophe €€ rooms have dainty period
Tel 01 47 83 21 35 Map 15 B1 3 Rue de Chevreuse, 75006 furniture and painted beams.
∑ mayet.com Tel 01 56 54 31 31 Map 16 E2
Colourful painted tables and ∑ apostrophe-hotel.com Hotel Particulier Montmartre €€€
abstract murals jazz up the decor A quirky, family-run hotel that will 23 Avenue Junot, Pavillon D, 75018
at this smart hotel. appeal to people with an artistic Tel 01 53 41 81 40 Map 2 E5
or literary bent. Rooms have ∑ hotel-particulier-montmartre.com
Valadon Colors €€ been decorated by local artists. The five intimate suites here
16 Rue Valadon, 75007 feature cutting-edge design and
Tel 01 47 53 89 85 Map 10 F3 Le Six €€€ are the size of small apartments.
∑ hotelvaladon.com 14 Rue Stanislas, 75006 There is also a pretty garden.
Superb beds, bold colours and Tel 01 42 22 00 75 Map 16 D1
funky furniture – a three-star hotel ∑ hotel-le-six.com DK Choice
that stands out from the crowd. Decorated in understated coffee
and cream, this is a chic, modern Terrass €€€
7 Eiffel €€€ hotel. The spa and hammam are 12–14 Rue Joseph de Maistre,
17 bis Rue Amélie, 75007 an added luxury. 75018
Tel 01 45 55 10 01 Map 10 F3 Tel 01 46 06 72 85 Map 6 E1
∑ hotel-7eiffel-paris.com Further Afield ∑ terrass-hotel.com
Subdued, stylish decoration with A relaxed four-star hotel with
dashes of colour make up this Mama Shelter € elegant rooms, Terrass has the
elegant hotel. Great roof terrace. 109 Rue de Bagnolet, 75020 seasons covered. In winter,
Tel 01 43 48 48 48 there’s a cosy piano bar with an
∑ mamashelter.com/en/paris open fire and armchairs to sink
St-Germain and Classy and hip. The Philippe into. In summer, the roof terrace
Latin Quarter Starck-designed rooms have comes into its own. The top
iMacs and mood lighting. floor affords spectacular views
Bel Ami €€ across the rooftops to the Eiffel
7–11 Rue St-Benoît, 75006 Tower and beyond.
Tel 01 42 61 53 53 Map 12 E3
∑ hotel-bel-ami.com Romantic
In a former 19th-century printing
works, this hip, minimalist hotel is Ile de la Cité and Champs-Elysées and
where the media crowd hangs out. Ile St-Louis Chaillot Quarter
Le Bellechasse €€ Saint Louis en l’Isle €€ Daniel €€€
8 Rue de Bellechasse, 75007 75 Rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004 8 Rue Frédéric Bastiat, 75008
Tel 01 45 50 22 31 Map 11 C3 Tel 01 46 34 04 80 Map 13 C4 Tel 01 42 56 17 00 Map 4 F4
∑ lebellechasse.com ∑ saintlouisenlisle.com ∑ hoteldanielparis.com
Vibrant frescoes, zany patterns A superb location without sky-high A Chinese jewel box, this hotel
and brilliant colours fill this fun, prices. Stylish and intimate, with is filled with Oriental fabrics,
Christian Lacroix-designed gem. rooms in neutral shades. wallpapers, carpets and objects.
For key to prices see page 284
284-287_EW_Paris.indd 286 03/04/17 10:57 am
WHERE T O ST A Y 287
Lancaster €€€ Hôtel des Grands Hommes €€€ Champs-Elysées and
7 Rue de Berri, 75008 17 Place du Panthéon, 75005 Chaillot Quarter
Tel 01 40 76 40 76 Map 4 F4 Tel 01 46 34 19 60 Map 17 A1
∑ hotel-lancaster.com ∑ hoteldesgrandshommes.com Hotel Palais de Chaillot €
Marlene Dietrich’s favourite Enjoy views of the Panthéon at 35 Avenue Raymond Poincaré, 75116
hotel exudes understated luxury. this glossy hotel. Housed in an Tel 01 53 70 09 09 Map 9 C1
18th-century building, it has ∑ hotelpalaisdechaillot.com
Shangri-La €€€ sumptuous Baroque-style decor. A simple, modern B&B decorated
10 Avenue d’Iéna, 75116 in bright colours.
Tel 01 53 67 19 98 Map 10 D1 Villa d’Estrées €€€
∑ shangri-la.com/paris/shangrila 17 Rue Gît le Cœur, 75006
A madly romantic hotel in a Belle Tel 01 55 42 71 11 Map 12 F4 St-Germain and
Epoque palace, the former home ∑ villadestrees.com Latin Quarter
of Napoleon’s grandnephew. An elegant hideaway, this family-
run establishment offers rooms, Marignan €
suites and apartments. 13 Rue du Sommerard, 75005
Invalides and Eiffel Tel 01 43 54 63 81 Map 13 A5
Tower Quarter ∑ hotel-marignan.com
Luxembourg and Pristine bedrooms and a quaint
Hôtel de la Tour Maubourg €€ Montparnasse breakfast room are a feature of
150 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 this family-run B&B.
Tel 01 47 05 16 16 Map 11 A3 Hotel Louis 2 €€
∑ hoteltourmaubourgparis.com 2 Rue St-Sulpice, 75006 Further Afield
A gracious and homely hotel Tel 01 46 33 13 80 Map 12 E4
with harmonious bedrooms. ∑ hotel-louis2.com
The rooms in this friendly hotel are
Hôtel de Varenne €€ full of character, with handmade DK Choice
44 Rue de Bourgogne, 75007 mattresses and pretty fabrics. Arvor Saint Georges €€
Tel 01 45 51 45 55 Map 11 B3 8 Rue Laferrière, 75009
∑ varenne-hotel-paris.com Hôtel de L’Abbaye €€€ Tel 01 48 78 60 92 Map 6 F3
A lovely garden is the main asset 10 Rue Cassette, 75006 ∑ hotelarvor.com
of this hotel, which offers Louis Tel 01 45 44 38 11 Map 12 D5 Behind a subdued façade,
XVI- and Empire-style bedrooms. ∑ hotelabbayeparis.com this welcoming, family-friendly
Fresh flowers, deep sofas and B&B offers retro-modern style.
picture-covered walls set the The open-plan reception, which
DK Choice scene at this elegant hotel. includes a bar and breakfast
Duc de Saint Simon €€€ area, is decorated with
14 Rue de St-Simon, 75007 conceptual artist Daniel Buren’s
Tel 01 44 39 20 20 Map 11 C3 Further Afield striped posters. A single wall
∑ hotelducdesaintsimon.com of bold colour enlivens the
In an 18th-century town house, Hôtel de Banville €€ otherwise white and minimalist,
this alluring, quiet hotel has 166 Boulevard Berthier, 75017 though comfortable, bedrooms.
traditional decor. Upholstered Tel 01 42 67 70 16 Map 4 D1
furniture, antiques, skilful paint ∑ hotelbanville.fr
effects and bedrooms in Comfort and refinement are key HotelHome Paris 16 €€€
sumptuous colours lend it a at this Art Deco hotel. 36 Rue George Sand, 75016
smart but homely feel. Relax in Tel 01 45 20 61 38
the cellar bar, so glorious you’ll ∑ hotelhome.fr
never want to leave. Since Seventeen cheerfully decorated
standard rooms are on the Self-Catering apartments of various sizes make
small side, it’s worth upgrading. and B&B up this apartment-hotel
complex. Good for families.
Ile de la Cité and
Ile St-Louis
St-Germain and
Latin Quarter Hospitel €
1 Place du Parvis Notre-Dame, 75004
Hôtel de Buci €€ Tel 01 44 32 01 00 Map 13 A4
22 Rue de Buci, 75006 ∑ hotel-hospitel.fr
Tel 01 55 42 74 74 Map 12 E4 A bright, comfortable B&B with
∑ buci-hotel.com welcoming staff above a hospital.
Travel back to the 18th century
at this hotel with antiques, rich Tuileries, Opéra and
colours and luxurious fabrics. Montmartre
Relais St-Germain €€ Loft Paris €
9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006 7 Cité Véron, 75018
Tel 01 44 27 07 97 Map 12 F4 Tel 06 14 48 47 48 Map 6 E1
∑ hotel-paris-relais-saint- ∑ loft-paris.fr
germain.com Five homely self-catering apart-
Irresistible and typically Parisian, ments offer plenty of character.
this hotel has an up-market bistro There are great views from the The colourful Christian Lacroix-designed
and large, luxurious bedrooms. top-floor apartment. Le Petit Moulin
For more information on types of hotels see pages 280–83
284-287_EW_Paris.indd 287 03/04/17 10:57 am
288 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
The French national passion for good areas as well as Italian, Greek, Middle Eastern
cuisine makes eating out one of the and Indian ones. Most places serve lunch
greatest pleasures of a visit to Paris. from noon to about 2pm, and the menu often
Everywhere in the city, you see people includes fixed-price meals. Parisians usually
eating – in restaurants, bistros, tearooms, start to fill restaurants for dinner around 8pm
cafés and wine bars. and most places serve from around 7pm until
Restaurants serving French food have 11pm. Many restaurants are closed on Mon-
been joined by Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, days and in August. (See also Bars, Tearooms,
Korean and North African eateries in many Coffee Shops and Street Food pp309–11.)
What to Eat
(6th arrondissement), as well as
A tremendous range of food Rue SteAnne (2nd) and Avenue
is available in Paris, from the de Choisy (13th).
rich meat dishes and perfect
pâtisserie for which France is Where to Find Good
most famous to simpler French
regional cuisines (see pp292–3). Restaurants and Cafés
The latter are available in You can eat well in almost any
brasseries and bistros – the part of Paris. Wherever you are,
type usually depends on the as a rule of thumb you will find
birthplace of the chef. Simple, that the most out standing
small meals can be enjoyed in restaurants and cafés are those
cafés, wine bars and pâtisseries, that cater predomin antly to a
while more substantial meals French clientele.
can be had in the numerous The Left Bank probably has the
brasseries and bistros. greatest concentration of restau
The best ethnic food comes rants, especially in tourist areas
from France’s former colonies: like StGermaindesPrés and
Vietnam and North Africa. North the Latin Quarter. The quality of Le Pré Verre restaurant (see p304)
African eateries are known as food varies, but there are some
couscous restaurants and serve commendable bistros, outdoor In the Marais and Bastille
filling, somewhat spicy, cafés and wine bars – see pages areas, small bistros, tearooms
inexpensive food that varies in 309–11 for a selection of the and cafés are plentiful, some
quality. Vietnamese restaurants best places to go in Paris for modern and fashionable.
are also good value and provide light meals and snacks. The Latin These areas also have many
a light alternative to rich French Quarter also has a high concen traditional longestablished
food. Paris also has some good tration of Greek and Turkish bistros and brasseries that
Japanese restaurants, notably restaurants centred chiefly are good.
around Rue Monsieur le Prince around Rue de la Huchette. The ChampsElysées and
Madeleine area offer everything
from smart, traditional cafés to
fastfood outlets and a scattering
of delectable tearooms. There
are some very good expensive
restaurants here too.
Montparnasse still has some
great cafés and restaurants from
the 1920s, such as La Coupole
and Le Sélect, on the Boulevard
du Montparnasse (see pp305 &
306). Sensitive renovation has
recaptured much of their old
splendour. This area is also well
known for its many pancake
restaurants (crêperies). Rue de
Montparnasse, for example, is
lined with crêperies serving
galettes, sweet crêpes and
Le Verre Volé bistrot and wine shop (see p308) Normandy cider.
288-289_EW_Paris.indd 288 03/04/17 10:57 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.1)
Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 289
There are many noteworthy
restaurants, bistros and cafés
in the LouvreRivoli area,
competing with tourist
oriented, overpriced cafés. Just
to the east, Les Halles is choca
bloc with fastfood joints and
mediocre restaurants but there
are a few places of note.
Good Japanese food can be
found near the Opéra together
with some fine brasseries, but
otherwise, the area around the
Opéra and Grands Boulevards
is not the best for restaurants.
Near the Bourse are some
reputable restaurants and
bistros, often frequented by
stockbrokers.
Montmartre has a predictable Le Grand Véfour, next to the Palais-Royal gardens (see p300)
number of tourist restaurants,
but it also has a few very
pleasant small bistros. One Types of Restaurants Café prices vary from area to
traditional bistro, complete and Cafés area, in direct proportion to the
with a zinc bar, is Un Zèbre à One of the most enjoyable number of tourists. Smarter cafés,
Montmartre (see p298), aspects of eating in Paris is the like Café de Flore and Les Deux
which serves delicious, diversity of places to eat. Bistros Magots, serve food until late at
inexpensive food. are small, often moder ately night. Those cafés specializing
Quiet neighbourhoods in the priced restaurants with a limited in beer almost always include
evening, the Invalides, Eiffel selection of dishes. Those from onion tarts, French fries and
Tower and Palais de Chaillot tend the Belle Epoque era are partic hearty bowls of steamed
to have less noisy, more serious ularly beautiful, with zinc bars, mussels on the menu. Brunch
restaurants than areas with lively mirrors and attractive tiles. The is served in many places at
nightlife. Prices can be high. food is generally, but not weekends, from around €17.
Two Chinatowns, one in always, regional and traditional. Wine bars are informal. They
the area south of the Place Many chefs from the usually have a moder
d’Italie, the other in the smartest restaurants ately priced, simple
traditionally workingclass, have also opened lunch menu and serve
hilltop area of Belleville, have bistros and these can wine by the glass.
concentrations of ethnic food be very good value. Some serve snacks at
but few French restaurants of Brasseries are any time of day – such
note. Ménilmontant and mostly large bustling as marvellous open
Belleville are going through a eateries, many with sandwiches (tartines)
regeneration, and becoming an Alsatian character made with sour dough
celebrated for their culinary serving carafes of Poilâne bread topped
scene, with gourmet restaurants, Alsatian wine and A typical bistro menu with cheese, sausage
hip bars and brunch venues. platters of sauerkraut or pâté. A few stay
and sausage. They have open for dinner.
immense menus, and most Tearooms open for breakfast
serve food throughout the or midmorning until the early
day and are open late. Outside, evening. Many offer lunch, as
you may well see impressive well as a selection of sweet
pavement displays of shellfish, pastries for afternoon tea. They
with apronclad oyster shuckers are best visited in the middle of
working late into the night. the afternoon and offer coffee
Cafés open early in the and hot chocolate as well as
morning, and apart from the fine teas. Some, like Le Loir
large tourist cafés, most close dans la Théière, are casual with
by around 10pm. They serve sofas, while Mariage Frères is
drinks and food all day long more formal. Angélina on the
from a short menu of salads, Rue de Rivoli is famous for
sandwiches, omelettes and its hot chocolate, and Ladurée
grills. At lunch, most also offer a has excellent macaroons (for
La Tour d’Argent decoration (see p305) small choice of hot daily specials. addresses see p311).
288-289_EW_Paris.indd 289 03/04/17 10:57 am
290 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
How Much to Pay to decipher, so ask for help if
Prices for meals in Paris range necessary. The first course
from the extremely economic generally includes a choice of
to the astronomical. You can still seasonal salads or vegetables,
enjoy a hearty restaurant or café pâté and small hot or cold
lunch for €25, but a typical good vegetable dishes or tarts.
bistro, brasserie or restaurant Small fish dishes like smoked
meal in central Paris will average salmon, grilled sardines, herring,
€40–€55 with wine. Remem ber fish salads and tartares are also
that selecting one of the better often on the menu. Brasseries
French wines will increase the have shell fish such as oysters,
size of your bill significantly. which can also be eaten as a
More expensive restaurants main course.
begin at about €60 with wine Main dishes usually include a
and go up to €210 for the top selection of meat, poultry and
Bofinger, a traditional brasserie establishments. Many places fish. Game often features in the
in Bastille (see p297) offer a formule or prix-fixe (fixed autumn. Most restaurants also
price) menu, especially at lunch, offer fresh, goodvalue daily
and this will almost always specials (plats du jour).
Vegetarian Food
offer the best value. Some
Wholly vegetarian restaurants restaurants feature two course
in Paris are still relatively few, menus for under €20 – a few at
and standard restaurant menus this price include wine. Coffee
typically offer only a few usually carries an extra charge.
vegetarian options. You can often All French restaurants are
fare well by ordering two courses obliged by law to display their
from the list of entrées (first menu outside. The posted rates
courses). North African restau include service but a tip for
rants will serve couscous with particularly good service will
vegetables only, but these may always be appreciated (any
have come out of the meat pot. amount from one euro to
Never be timid about asking five per cent of the total).
for a change in a dish. If you The most widely accepted
see a salad with ham, bacon credit card is Visa. Few
or foie gras, ask the waiter for restaurants accept American
it without the meat. If you are Express, and some bistros do Eating at the classy Benoît, run by
going to a smart restaurant, not accept credit cards at all, Alain Ducasse (see p298)
telephone ahead and ask the so it is wise to enquire when
manager if it is possible to you book. Traveller’s cheques Cheese is eaten either as a
prepare a special meal for are not accepted either. dessert or as a predessert
you. Most restaurants will course. Coffee is served after,
be happy to oblige. The Menu not with, dessert. You will need
Organic produce is increasingly to ask specifically if you want it
used in French cuisine – look Menu boards in small au lait (with milk). Decaffeinated
out for biologique or bio on the restaurants and bistros, and coffee (décaféiné) and herbal
menu. Some places can also even in big brasseries, are often teas (tisanes) are also popular.
provide glutenfree dishes. handwritten and can be difficult In most restaurants, you will
be asked if you would like a
drink before ordering food. A
typical apéritif is kir (white wine
with a drop of crème de cassis,
a black currant liqueur) or kir
royal (champagne with crème
de cassis). Beer is rarely drunk
before a meal in France (see
What to Drink in Paris pp294–5).
Bistros and brasseries usually
include the wine list with the
menu. The more expensive
restaurants have separate wine
lists, which are generally brought
to the table by the wine waiter
(sommelier), who can help with
Qui Plume La Lune, a chic modern restaurant (see p298) choosing the wine.
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 291
The lavish interior of Le Train Bleu restaurant in the Gare de Lyon (see p308)
Service Smoking
and prices, and are the best of
The lunchtime service in There are strict anti-tobacco their kind in Paris. They are listed
popular Paris eateries is laws in France. It is illegal to by area, and are mostly in the
generally very brisk, if sometimes smoke inside bars and main tourist districts, although
a little brusque, due to the sheer restaurants. Smoking is there are a number of venues
pressure of numbers. Evening permitted, however, on slightly further afield that merit
meals can usually be enjoyed restaurant, café and pub terraces a special trip.
at a more leisurely pace. provided they are not enclosed. Many Paris restaurants are
still firmly rooted in the past,
Children Wheelchair Access serving traditional French bistro
and brasserie specialities such as
French children are intro duced Parisian restaurants are generally steak-frites, snails and seafood, as
early to eating in restaurants accommodating, and a word well as regional dishes such as
and as a rule are well-behaved. when you book should ensure cassoulet and confit of duck.
Consequently, children are that you are given a more con- However, there are also those
usually very welcome. ven iently situated table when that embrace new trends in a
However, there may be little you arrive. It is always worth modern bistro style of high-
room inside a busy restaurant checking that toilets can also calibre cooking – “cuisine
to bring in pushchairs or be used by wheelchair users, bistronomique”. These bistros
prams, and relatively few since access can be restricted. offer an inventive, market-driven
restaurants provide special reworking of classic recipes,
facilities such as highchairs Picnics served in homely surroundings
or baby seats. at reasonable prices. Another
Picnicking is the best way to development in the Paris
enjoy the wonderful fresh restaurant scene, especially at
produce, local bread, cheeses, haute cuisine establishments,
charcuterie and pastries from the is the influx of foreign chefs.
markets and enticing shops to be Many of them come from Japan,
found all over the city. For more and they are refreshing and
details, see pages 325–7. It is invigorating Parisian dining.
also a good way of enjoying the Throughout the listings,
many parks that Paris has to offer. certain restaurants have been
highlighted as DK Choice.
Recommended These offer a particularly special
Restaurants quality, such as outstanding
food, excellent value, a romantic
The restaurants on pages 296– ambience, a uniquely Parisian
Terminus Nord brasserie (see p308), 308 of this guide cover a dining experience or a
opposite the Gare du Nord spectrum of cuisine styles combination of these.
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292 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
The Flavours of Paris
From the glittering temples of haute cuisine to the humblest
neighbourhood bistro, Paris is a paradise for food lovers,
whether you dine on foie gras and truffles or steak-frites, a
seafood platter or a perfumed Moroccan couscous. France is
immensely proud of its food, from classic haute cuisine to
the most rustic of regional dishes. All are available in the
capital and, though the French themselves will debate
endlessly about the ideal sauce to complement meat or fish,
or the right wine to accompany them, they will always be in
total agreement that theirs is the best food in the world.
prize ingredients of the season. represented in the capital, from
Even if you are not shopping the rich, bourgeois cuisines of
for food to cook, the markets Burgundy and Lyon to the
are worth browsing and, after celebrated healthy
an hour or so in the crowded, Mediterranean diet of
narrow streets of the Rue de Provence. Paris itself is
Buci or Rue Mouffetard, you will surrounded by top quality
be more than ready for lunch. market gardens which supply
The food of the French young peas, carrots and pot-
provinces, once despised for atoes. Salmon, asparagus and
its rusticity, is now celebrated wild mushrooms come from
and almost every region is the Loire; Normandy brings
Comté
Brie
Girolles (chanterelles) on a stall in Rue
Mouffetard market
What all French chefs agree on
is the importance of using the
finest quality ingredients, and
there is no better place to
appreciate the quality of French
produce than in the markets of Tomme de
chèvre
Paris. Here, top chefs may be
spied early in the morning, Ami du Chambertin
alongside local shoppers, Roquefort
seeking inspiration and the Selection of fine French cheeses in perfect condition
Classic French Cuisine
What is usually thought of as classic French
cuisine was developed in royal palaces and
noble châteaux, with the emphasis on
luxury and display, not frugality or health.
Dishes are often bathed in rich sauces
of butter or cream, enhanced with
luxurious ingredients like truffles, foie
gras, rare mushrooms and alcohol. Meat is
treated with reverence, and you will usually be asked how
you want your beef, lamb or duck cooked; the French tend to like
their beef rare or medium rare (bleu or saignant) and their lamb
and duck pink (rose). For well-cooked meat, ask for “bien cuit” but
still expect at least a tinge of pinkness. The most famous country Escargots à la Bourguignon
classics include slowly cooked casseroles like coq au vin and are plump Burgundy snails
boeuf bourguignon, as well as the bean, sausage and baked served in their shells with
duck dish cassoulet, from the southwest. garlic, butter and parsley.
292-293_EW_Paris.indd 292 25/04/16 5:04 pm
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 293
salt-marsh lamb, apples and
Camembert. Salers beef
and lentils come from the
Auvergne; beef and Bresse
chickens from Burgundy;
not forgetting Basque ham,
Collioure anchovies, lamb
from the Pyrenees, or fragrant
Provençal melons.
The New Style
In recent years, innovative
chefs have developed new
styles of cooking, reacting
against the richness of trad- Mouthwatering display in a Parisian pâtisserie
itional cookery, and using
fresh ingredients, lightly wonderful new combinations ON THE MENU
cooked to retain their flavour. and flavours, such as sea bass
Sauces are made of light with bean purée and red wine Andouillettes Sausages made
reductions to enhance, not sauce, or with fermented grape from pork intestines
obscure, the main ingredient juice; sole with quince juice Blanquette de veau Veal stew
of a dish. A wave of invention and tarragon; tempura of with a creamy sauce
and originality has resulted langoustines with cinnamon Confit de canard Cured duck
in a plethora of unusual beurre blanc; rabbit with leg with garlic and herbs
ingredients, fresh twists on Indian spices and tomato Crottin chaud en salade
the classics, and sometimes polenta; and rosemary ice Goat’s cheese on toast with salad
cream or lavender sorbet.
Cuisses de grenouille Frogs’
legs in garlic butter
Foreign Food Iles flottantes Meringues
Paris can also offer diners an floating in a custard sauce
amazing selection of world Plateau de fruits de mer
flavours, especially those of Platter of raw and cooked seafood
France’s former colonies – for Ris de veau Veal sweetbreads
example, Moroccan tajines and
Cambodian fish with coconut Rognons à la moutarde
Kidneys in mustard sauce
milk. Most fascinating of all is
to observe how these cuisines Salade frisée aux lardons
are developing, as young chefs Endive salad with fried bacon
adapt and combine traditional Sole meunière Fried sole with
Sealed jars of whole duck-liver foie ingredients and culinary styles melted butter
gras, a luxury item with those of France.
Moules marinière are mussels Coq au vin is a male chicken Tarte tatin is a caramelized
steamed in a fragrant sauce braised with red wine, herbs, upside-down buttery apple
of white wine, garlic, parsley garlic, baby onions and tart, created at the hotel
and sometimes cream. button mushrooms. Tatin in the Loire Valley.
292-293_EW_Paris.indd 293 25/04/16 5:04 pm
294 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
What to Drink in Paris
Paris is the best place in France to sample a
wide range of the country’s many different
wines. It’s cheapest to order wine by the carafe,
normally referred to by size: 25cl (quart), 33cl
(fillette), 50cl (demi) or 75cl (pichet, equivalent
to a bottle). Cafés and wine bars usually offer
wine by the glass – un petit blanc is a small
glass of white, a larger glass of red is un ballon
de rouge. House wine is nearly always reliable.
Red Wine
Some of the world’s finest red
wines come from the Bordeaux
and Burgundy regions, but for
everyday drinking, choose Paris’s last vineyard, near Sacré-Coeur (see p224)
from the vast range of basic
southern French or Côtes
du Rhône wines. Or try one
of the Beaujolais crus, such
as Morgon or Fleurie
from southern Burgundy,
or lighter reds from the
Loire, such as Chinon or Bordeaux châteaux Burgundy includes
Saumur-Champigny. include Margaux, which some big, strong red
makes some of the wines from the village
Distinctive bottle shapes for world’s most elegant of Gevrey-Chambertin
Bordeaux and Burgundy red wines. in the Côte de Nuits.
Beaujolais Nouveau, The Loire has very good Southern Rhône is Northern Rhône has
the fruity first taste of the red wines from the area famous for its dark, some dark, spicy red
year’s new wine, is around Chinon. They are rich red wines from wines, best aged for at
released on the third usually quite light and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, least ten years, from
Thursday of November. very dry. north of Avignon. Côte-Rôtie near Vienne.
Fine Wine Vintage Chart 2009 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2001
Bordeaux
Margaux, St-Julien, Pauillac, St-Estèphe 10 8 7 8 9 7 8 6 7
Graves, Pessac-Léognan (red) 9 8 7 8 9 7 6 6 7
Graves, Pessac-Léognan (white) 7 8 7 8 9 8 7 6 7
St-Emilion, Pomerol 9 8 7 8 9 7 6 5 8
Burgundy
Chablis 9 8 9 8 9 8 7 8 8
Côte de Nuits (red) 9 7 6 7 9 7 7 6 7
Côte de Beaune (white) 9 7 7 8 9 8 7 8 8
Loire
Bourgueil, Chinon 9 8 8 7 9 7 7 8 7
Sancerre (white) 9 8 7 8 9 8 7 7 8
Rhone
Hermitage (red) 9 7 10 7 9 7 7 4 7
Hermitage (white) 9 8 10 7 9 7 6 4 8
Côte-Rôtie 8 7 8 7 9 7 6 4 7
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 9 8 9 8 9 7 6 3 7
The quality scale from 1 to 10 represents an overall rating for the year and is only a guideline
294-295_EW_Paris.indd 294 03/04/17 10:57 am
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Date 3rd August 2012
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 295
White Wine
The finest white Bordeaux and
Burgundies are best with food,
but for everyday drink ing,
try a light dry wine such
as Entre-Deux-Mers from
Bordeaux, or Anjou Blanc Alsace wines are usually Loire wines include
or Sauvignon de Touraine labelled by grape variety. Pouilly-Fumé. It is very
from the Loire. Alsace Gewürz traminer is one dry, often with a slightly
makes some reliable white of the most distinctive. smoky perfume.
wines. Sweet wines such
as Sauternes, Barsac or
Coteaux du Layon are
delicious with foie gras.
Alsace Riesling and
Burgundy
Burgundy wines The Loire has the per-
include Chablis, a fresh, fect partner to seafood
Sparkling Wine full-flavoured dry wine dishes in Muscadet, a
In France, Champagne is the first from the northernmost dry white wine from
choice for a celebration drink, and vineyards. the Atlantic Coast.
styles range from non-vintage to
deluxe. Many other wine regions
make sparkling wines by the
champagne method which tend
to be a lot cheaper. Look out for
Crémant de Loire, Crémant de
Bourgogne, Vouvray Mousseux, Champagne vineyards Sweet Bordeaux are
Saumur Mousseux and Blanquette east of Paris produce the luscious, golden-
de Limoux. famous sparkling wine. coloured dessert wines,
Champagne Billecart-Salmon is a the most famous being
light, pink Champagne. Barsac and Sauternes.
Aperitifs and Digestifs Other Drinks
Kir, white wine mixed with a small amount of The brightly coloured drinks consumed in cafés
blackcurrant liqueur or crème de cassis, is the all over Paris are mixtures of flavoured syrups and
ubiquitous apéritif. Also common is aniseed- mineral waters, called sirops à l’eau. The emerald-
flavoured pastis which is served with ice and a green drinks use mint syrup, the red ones grenadine.
pitcher of water and can be very Fruit juices and tomato juice are sold in bottles
refreshing. Vermouths, especially unless you specify citron pressé or orange pressée
Noilly-Prat, are also common (freshly squeezed lemon or orange), which are
aperitifs. Digestifs, or after-dinner served with a pitcher of water and with sugar or
drinks, are often ordered with sugar syrup for you to dilute and sweeten to taste.
coffee and include eaux-de-vie, If you ask for water, you will be served mineral
the strong colourless spirits infused water, sparkling (gazeuse) or still (naturelle); if you
with fruit, and brandies such as Cognac, don’t want to be charged, ask for tap water (eau de
Armagnac and Calvados. robinet) or a pitcher of
water (carafe d’eau).
Kir: white wine with cassis
Beers
Beer in France is sold either by the bottle or, more
cheaply, on tap by the glass – un demi. The
cheapest is lager-style bière française, and the
best brands are Meteor and Mutzig, followed by
“33”, “1664” and Kronenbourg. Pelforth makes very
good dark beer and lager. Some bars and cafés
specialize in foreign beers, especially from Belgium,
and these are very malty and strong – Leffe, for
example, comes as brune (dark, fully flavoured)
or as a lighter blonde (lager). There are bars that
brew their own beer. (For beer bars see p309). Fresh lemon juice is served with water and sugar
294-295_EW_Paris.indd 295 03/04/17 10:57 am
296 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
Where to Eat and Drink
Café Charlot € Price Guide
Ile de la Cité and International Map 14 D2 For a three-course meal per person,
Ile St-Louis 38 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 including tax, service and half a bottle
Tel 01 44 54 03 30 of house wine.
Café St Régis € Grab a seat on the popular € up to €30
Traditional French Map 13 B4 terrace or enjoy the handsome €€ €30–€65
6 Rue Jean du Bellay, 75004 interior of this cool café set in a €€€ over €65
Tel 01 43 54 59 41 former boulangerie. The daily
This popular, friendly café with specials are usually excellent Filakia €
a traditional bistro decor serves but if you’re not hungry, you can Greek Map 13 A1
food all day – from classic just hang out with a coffee or a 9 Rue Mandar, 75002
croques-monsieur to hamburgers. cocktail. Tel 01 42 21 42 88
The interesting Sunday brunch This cosy venue serves delicious
menu features oysters and Café de l’Industrie € and authentic souvlaki wraps
waffles. Good breakfasts, too. Traditional French Map 14 E3 filled with succulent grilled
16 Rue St-Sabin, 75011 marinated chicken, lamb, steak
Au Bougnat €€ Tel 01 47 00 13 53 or vegetables – all accompanied
Traditional French Map 13 B4 While away hours at this relaxed by French fries or salad.
26 Rue Chanoinesse, 75004 favourite in the Bastille, with its
Tel 01 43 54 50 74 attractive Neo-Colonial decor Le Garde Robe €
The modest decor at this bistro and old movie posters. There is French Tapas Map 12 F2
echoes its simple, traditional also an annexe across the road. 41 Rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001
cuisine – delicious frogs’ legs, veal Tel 01 49 26 90 60 Closed Sun
stew, entrecôte and pear tart. Chez Hanna € This narrow space serves a wide
Moroccan and Israeli Map 13 C3 range of tapas – oysters, cheeses
54 Rue des Rosiers, 75004 and charcuterie – accompanied
Tel 01 42 74 74 99/01 73 20 23 71 by wonderful wines.
Beaubourg and Closed Mon
The Marais This is a firm favourite among L’Ambassade d’Auvergne €€
locals, who come here for the Auvergnat Map 13 B2
Amici Miei € famous hummus and falafel 22 Rue du Grenier St-Lazare, 75003
Sardinian Map 14 E3 sandwiches: golden outside, Tel 01 42 72 31 22
44 Rue St-Sabin, 75011 moist within, and crammed With the atmosphere of a rustic
Tel 01 42 71 82 62 Closed Mon with crisp vegetables, juicy inn, this restaurant transports
& Sun aubergine and chilli and you to rural Auvergne. A menu
Fans claim that this rustic, creamy tahini sauce. highlight is aligot (potatoes with
unpretentious trattoria makes cheese and garlic).
the best thin-crust pizzas in Le Dindon en Laisse €
Paris. Follow a pizza with the Traditional French Map 14 D4 L’Ange 20 €€
strawberry and basil panna cotta. 18 Rue Beautreillis, 75004 Traditional French Map 14 E3
Tel 01 48 04 06 24 44 Rue des Tournelles, 75003
DK Choice “The Turkey on a Leash” is a Tel 01 49 96 58 39 Closed Mon & Tue
Choose between seven-hour
cheerful eatery with stellar food:
L’As du Fallafel € risottos, flavoursome meat and cooked lamb and duck with
Israeli Map 13 C3 game dishes, as well as good orange at this snug bistro in
34 Rue des Rosiers, 75004 wines. In summer, it is possible the heart of The Marais.
Tel 01 48 87 63 60 Closed Sat to dine alfresco. Both are deliciously tender.
What draws the crowds here
are the best falafel sandwiches
you’re likely to taste: warm pitta
bread packed with crunchy
cabbage, melting auber gine
and velvety hummus, with a
deliciously piquant sauce. At
lunchtime, you’ll find a queue
snaking down the street for the
falafel stand. Later, you might
be able to get a table inside.
Blend €
American Map 13 A1
44 Rue d’Argout, 75002
Tel 01 40 26 84 57
A no-nonsense restaurant where
the chef blends different cuts of
top-quality beef and fresh
produce to make the perfect
gourmet burger. There are four
branches in Paris. The bustling interior of Café St Régis with retro vintage decor
296-308_EW_Paris.indd 296 03/04/17 10:57 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 297
L’Ilot €€
Seafood Map 14 D1
4 Rue de la Corderie, 75003
Tel 06 95 12 86 61
The trendy inhabitants of the
Marais come here to savour
fish and shellfish brought in
daily from the French coast. A
selective wine list accompanies
their seafood dishes.
Le Petit Marché €€
Modern French Map 14 D3
9 Rue de Béarn, 75003
Tel 01 42 72 06 67
Highlights of the short Asian
inspired menu here include
succulent beef, enticing sesame
seared tuna and decadent
chocolate fondant with praline
The Belle Epoque decor at Bofinger crème anglaise.
€€
€€
DK Choice Le Chemise Map 14 E1 Le Pharamond Map 13 A2
Modern French
Traditional French
Auberge Nicolas Flamel €€ 42 Rue de Malte, 75011 24 Rue de la Grande Truanderie,
Traditional French Map 13 C2 Tel 01 49 29 98 77 Closed Sat, Sun & 75001
51 Rue de Montmorency, 75003 Mon lunch Tel 01 40 28 45 18 Closed Mon & Sun
Tel 01 42 71 77 78 Closed Sun A sleek, chic neobistro: wooden Norman specialities, including
Nicolas Flamel, said to have floors, supercomfortable leather tripe cooked in cider and
been an alchemist, built this chairs and cooking that puts a Calvados, feature strongly on the
house, the oldest in Paris, in creative spin on the traditional. menu at this restaurant inside
1407. The interior, set over two a Belle Epoque building.
floors, is charmingly haphazard, Claude Colliot €€
and candlelit dinners among Modern French Map 13 B2 Les Philosophes €€
the stone walls and beams have 40 Rue des Blancs Manteaux, 75004 Traditional French Map 13 C3
a romantic ambience. The tradi Tel 01 42 71 55 45 Closed Sun & Mon 28 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75004
tional dishes are well executed. Innovative seasonal cooking by Tel 01 48 87 49 64
this selftaught chef in a sleek Try this popular allday café
setting, frequented by the stars. for firstrate onion soup, steak-
Bofinger €€ frites, omelettes and the house
Alsatian Map 14 E4 Le Colimaçon €€ speciality: tomato tarte tatin. The
5–7 Rue de la Bastille, 75004 Modern French Map 13 C3 puddings are truly memorable.
Tel 01 42 72 87 82 44 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75004
A perfectly preserved Belle Tel 06 27 18 08 07 Closed lunch La Régalade St-Honoré €€
Epoque interior – with a stained Mon–Sat Traditional French Map 12 F2
glass cupola and an elegant Traditional recipes are interpreted 123 Rue St-Honoré, 75001
staircase with a polished brass in a modern way, and prepared Tel 01 45 45 68 58 Closed Mon
handrail – makes this one of the with seasonal ingredients, at this lunch; Sat & Sun
city’s most beautiful brasseries. restaurant with rusticstyle decor. Make sure you’re hungry when
The menu of classic dishes The signature dish is meltinthe you get here: Bruno Doucet’s glo
includes great shellfish. mouth snails. rious, complex country cooking
is served in generous portions.
Les Bonnes Soeurs €€ Frenchie €€
Modern French Map 14 D3 Modern French Map 7 A5 Le Tir Bouchon €€
8 Rue du Pas de la Mule, 75003 5–6 Rue du Nil, 75002 Traditional French Map 13 A1
Tel 01 42 74 55 80 Tel 01 40 39 96 19 Closed lunch 22 Rue Tiquetonne, 75002
This small modern bistro, close daily; Sat & Sun Tel 01 42 21 95 51
to the fashionable Place des One of Paris’s hottest bistros. The An endearingly oldfashioned
Vosges, is known for good intensely flavoured dishes, on restaurant where the chef adds
value brunches (reservations fixedprice menus, are an irresist a gourmet touch to classic
are recommended). ible draw. Book months ahead, regional dishes. The honey
or try your luck at the wine bar roasted duck is very popular.
Café Beaubourg €€ oppo site, which also serves food.
Modern French Map 13 B2 Le Trumilou €€
43 Rue St-Merri, Esplanade du Centre Le Hangar €€ Traditional French Map 13 B4
Georges Pompidou, 75004 Traditional French Map 13 B2 84 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville, 75004
Tel 01 48 87 63 96 12 Impasse Berthaud, 75003 Tel 01 42 77 63 98
The ample, sunny terrace of this Tel 01 42 74 55 44 Closed Mon & Sun Sit out in summer and enjoy
stylish café on the piazza of the Dishes here include panfried the river views at this legendary
Pompidou Centre is the perfect foie gras on puréed potatoes, bistro. With few frills, the fare
spot for a relaxing drink and and creamy risotto, as well as is as traditional as the decor.
some peoplewatching. The food great desserts. No credit cards House specialities include canard
is decent (if a little overpriced). are accepted. aux pruneaux (duck with prunes).
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 288–91
296-308_EW_Paris.indd 297 03/04/17 10:57 am
298 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
Le Villaret €€ Yam’Tcha €€€ Crêperie Broceliande €
Traditional French Map 14 E2 Asian Fusion Map 12 F2 Crêperie Map 6 F1
13 Rue Ternaux, 75011 121 Rue St Honoré, 75001 15 Rue des Trois Frères, 75018
Tel 01 43 57 89 76 or 01 43 57 75 56 Tel 01 40 26 08 07 Closed Mon Tel 01 42 23 31 34 Closed Mon & Tue
Closed Sat lunch & Sun & Sun; Tue lunch lunch; 3 wks in summer
This snug eatery, all exposed The name means “drink tea”, and A little slice of Brittany, complete
brick walls and beams, is tea pairings are recommended with a carved dresser and
renowned for using ingredients with Adeline Grattard’s Chinese- checked tablecloths. The crêpes
fresh from the morning market. influenced dishes with subtle are utter perfection: paper-thin
There is also a great cheeseboard. French notes. Book in advance. and with a range of delicious
fillings, both savoury and sweet.
Benoît €€€
Lyonnaise Map 13 B2 Le Progrès €
20 Rue St-Martin, 75004 Tuileries, Opéra and Traditional French Map 6 F1
Tel 01 58 00 22 05 Montmartre 7 Rue des Trois Frères, 75018
A Paris institution, the Benoît Tel 01 42 64 07 37
is run by renowned chef Alain Babalou € This traditional, charming café
Ducasse. Choose from a menu Italian Map 7 A1 with huge bay windows is the
of hearty standards such as 4 Rue Lamarck, 75018 ideal spot for relaxing and
veal sweetbreads and cassoulet. Tel 01 42 51 37 32 Closed mid-Jan– watching the world go by over
Outstanding wine list. mid-Feb a morning coffee or an evening
A restaurant with a big heart and aperitif. On the menu is simple,
Qui Plume La Lune €€€ smiling staff. Home-made pasta, reasonably priced food.
Modern French Map 14 D1 pizza, risotto and other Italian
50 Rue Amelot, 75011 staples are all perfectly cooked. Tentazioni €
Tel 01 48 07 45 48 Closed Mon, Tue Sicilian Map 6 E1
& Sun Bistrot Victoires € 26 Rue Tholozé, 75018
At this Michelin-starred Traditional French Map 12 F1 Tel 01 42 64 90 54 Closed Mon
establishment, diners splash 6 Rue la Vrillière, 75001 All the traditional dishes are
out on the five-course menu: Tel 01 42 61 43 78 tempting at this cosy, rustic
each dish is a sparkling fusion Entrecôte, roast chicken and other trattoria run by the welcoming
of Breton and Japanese cuisines. classics are served at this bistro. Leopardi family. However, be
The minimalist, stylish decor The vintage interior features a sure to leave some room for
includes an illuminated tree. zinc bar and banquette seating. the rich, decadent tiramisu.
DK Choice Le Cap Bourban Map 6 E5 € La Tiborna Map 6 E1 €
Portuguese
Traditional French
Spring €€€ 1 Rue Louis Le Grand, 75002 19 Rue Durantin, 75018
Modern French Map 12 F2 Tel 01 42 61 81 05 Closed Sat & Sun Tel 01 46 06 19 46
6 Rue Bailleul, 75001 This is the place for Creole This warm and convivial café
Tel 01 45 96 05 72 Closed Mon specialities from Réunion Island, serves up specialities from the
& Sun like boeuf massalé (beef curry), Iberian Peninsula. Locals come
A magician in the kitchen, samosas and shrimp curry. here for the excellent brunch,
Chicago-born Daniel Rose prepared with organic produce.
produces a fixed-price tasting Chartier €
menu that is created around Traditional French Map 6 F4 Un Zèbre à Montmartre €
what’s fresh in the market. 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, Lyonnaise Map 6 E1
There’s no choice, but his 75009 38 Rue Lepic, 75018
unique versions of French Tel 01 47 70 86 29 Tel 01 42 23 97 80
classics, paired with outstanding Leap back to the 1890s at this Enjoy a bargain set-price meal
wines, are inspired. If you can’t iconic brasserie. Traditionally at this colourful, bustling bistro.
get a table, try his wine bar, dressed waiters deliver simple, Highlights include slow-cooked
Buvette, in the basement. inexpensive food in glorious beef, and chocolate fondant.
Belle Epoque surroundings.
L’Adjugé €€
Modern French Map 6 F4
9 Rue Drouot, 75009
Tel 01 47 70 72 04 Closed Sun
Culinary treasures abound at the
in-house restaurant of the Drouot
auction house. Those needing a
break from the bidding come to
dine on classic French dishes in
intimate and quiet surroundings.
La Balançoire €€
Traditional French Map 6 E1
6 Rue Aristide Bruant, 75018
Tel 01 42 23 70 83
“The Swing” is a child-friendly
restaurant dotted with jars of
sweets. The menu is seasonal
Chartier, a Belle Epoque brasserie in Montmartre and imaginative.
For key to prices see page 296
296-308_EW_Paris.indd 298 03/04/17 10:57 am
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and
comprehensive maps for exploring this iconic city.
Admire Old Masters at the Louvre, enjoy the view from the Eiffel Tower or take a trip to Versailles: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of Paris
with this indispensable travel guide.
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visa and health information
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Paris is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from
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