(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Paris

P ARIS A T A GLANCE  49

Sacré-Coeur
Above the altar in this massive basilica, the
chancel vault is decorated with a vast
mosaic of Christ by Luc-Olivier Merson.






Montmartre




St-Eustache
With its mixture of Gothic
and Renaissance styles,
this is one of the finest
churches in Paris.
St-Paul–St-Louis
This Christ figure is
one of the many
rich furnishings in
Opéra this Jesuit church,
Quarter built in 1641 for
Cardinal Richelieu.
Tuileries
Quarter
Beaubourg
and
Les Halles
The Marais
St-Germain-
des-Prés
Ile de la Cité

Ile St-Louis
Notre-Dame
Latin The great cathedral was left to rot after
Quarter the Revolution, until Victor Hugo led a
Luxembourg restoration campaign.
Quarter


Jardin des Plantes
Quarter


Montparnasse


Grande Mosquée
de Paris
The minaret of this
1920s mosque is nearly St-Séverin
33 m (100 ft) tall. The west door leads into
one of the finest medieval
churches in the city.




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50  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Exploring Paris’s Places
of Worship

Some of Paris’s finest architecture is reflected in the places
of worship. The great era of church building was the medieval
period but examples survive from all ages. During the
Revolution (see pp32–3) churches were used as grain or
weapons stores but were later restored to their former glory.
Many have superb interiors with fine paintings and sculptures.

who added the transepts with
their fine translucent rose
windows. Montreuil’s master- Façade of Chapelle de la Sorbonne
piece is Louis IX’s medieval
palace chapel, Sainte-Chapelle,
with its two-tier structure. It was Baroque and Classical
built to house Christ’s Crown of Churches and convents
Thorns. Other surviving churches flourished in Paris during the
in Paris are St-Germain-des- 17th century, as the city
Prés, the oldest surviving abbey expanded under Louis XIII and
church in Paris (1050); the tiny, his son Louis XIV. The Italian
rustic Romanesque St-Julien- Baroque style was first seen on
le-Pauvre; and the Flamboyant the majestic front of St-Gervais–
Gothic St-Séverin, St-Germain St-Protais, built by Salomon de
l’Auxerrois and St-Merry. Brosse in 1616. The style was
toned down to suit French
tastes and the rational
Renaissance
Tower of St-Germain-des-Prés temperament of the Age of
The effect of the Italian Enlightenment (see pp30–31).
Renaissance swept through Paris The result was a harmonious
Medieval in the 16th century. It led to a and monumental Classicism in
Both the pointed arch and the unique architectural style in the form of columns and domes.
rose window were born in a which fine Classical detail and One example is the distinctive
suburb north of Paris at the immense Gothic proportions Chapelle de la Sorbonne,
Basilique-Cathédrale de St-Denis, resulted in the attractive “French completed by Jacques
where most of the French kings Renaissance” style. The best Lemercier in 1642 for
and queens are buried. This was example in Paris is Cardinal Richelieu.
the first Gothic building, and it St-Etienne-du-Mont, Grander and more
was from here that the Gothic whose interior has the richly decorated, with a
style spread. The finest Gothic feel of a wide and light painted dome, is the
church in Paris is the city basilica. Another is church built by
cathedral, Notre-Dame, tallest St-Eustache, François Mansart to
and most impressive of the early the massive market honour the birth of the
French cathedrals. Begun in 1163 church in Les Halles, Sun King at the Val-de-
by Bishop Maurice de Sully, it and the nave of Grâce convent. The
was completed over the next St-Gervais–St-Protais true gem of the period
century by architects Jean de with its stained glass is Jules Hardouin-
Chelles and Pierre de Montreuil, and carved choir stalls. St-Gervais–St-Protais Mansart’s Dôme des

Towers, Domes and Spires
Tour St-Etienne-
Paris’s many churches have dominated her skyline since early St-Jacques du-Mont
Christian times. The Gothic Tour St-Jacques, the only element
still extant from a long-gone church, reflects the medieval
love of the defensive tower. St-Etienne-du-Mont, with its
pointed gable and rounded pediment, shows the transition
from Gothic to Renaissance. The dome, a much-used feature
of the French Baroque, was used to perfection in the Val-de-
Grâce, while St-Sulpice with its severe arrangement of towers
and portico is typically Neo-Classical. With its ornate spires,
Ste-Clotilde is a Gothic Revival church. Modern landmarks
include the mosque, with its minaret. Gothic Renaissance




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P ARIS A T A GLANCE  51


Invalides, with its enormous St Paul’s in London. The dome is
gilded dome. An example of supported by four pillars, built by
Jesuit extravagance can be seen Guillaume Rondelet, linking four
in St-Paul–St-Louis, built in the great arches. The first colonnaded
style of Il Gesú in Rome. In façade was Giovanni Niccolo
contrast is Libéral Bruand’s Servandoni’s St-Sulpice.
chapel St-Louis-des-Invalides, Construction of this church
with its severe geometry and began in 1646 and consisted
unadorned sim plicity. Other of a two-storey portico, topped
fine Classical churches are by a triangular pediment. La
St-Joseph-des-Carmes and the Madeleine, Napoleon’s grand
18th-century St-Roch, with its temple to his victorious army,
Baroque Chapelle de la Vierge. was con structed on the ground
plan of a Greco-Roman temple.
Second Empire and
Modern
Franz Christian Gau’s Sainte- The arches of St-Jean L’Evangéliste,
Clotilde of the 1840s is the first reminiscent of Islamic architecture
and best example in Paris of the
Gothic Revival or style religieux. Finding the Places
Showy churches were built in of Worship
the new districts created by
Haussmann in the Second Chapelle de la Sorbonne p159
Empire (pp36–7). One of the Dôme des Invalides pp188–9
most lovely is Victor Baltard’s Grande Mosquée de Paris
St-Augustin, at the intersection pp168–9
of the Boulevard Malesherbes La Madeleine p218
and the Boulevard de la Notre-Dame pp82–5
Interior of the Panthéon Madeleine. Here, historic detail Panthéon pp160–61
combines with modern iron Sacré-Coeur pp226–7
columns and girders in a Sainte-Chapelle pp88–9
Neo-Classical Sainte-Clotilde p192
soaring interior space. The great
An obsession with all things basilica of the late 19th century, St-Etienne-du-Mont p159
Greek and Roman swept France Sacré-Coeur, was built as a St-Eustache p116
in the mid-18th century and gesture of religious defiance. St-Germain l’Auxerrois p117
well into the 19th century. The St-Jean l’Evangéliste by St-Germain-des-Prés p140
excavations at Pompeii (1738) Anatole de Baudot is an St-Gervais–St-Protais p103
and the influence of the Italian interesting modern church St-Jean l’Evangéliste p230
architect Andrea Palladio combining the Art Nouveau St-Joseph-des-Carmes p175
produced a generation of style with Islamic arches. The St-Julien-le-Pauvre p158
St-Louis-des-Invalides p190
architects fascinated by the modern gem of Islamic
column, geometry and engin- architecture, the Grande St-Merry p114
St-Paul–St-Louis pp102–3
eering. The best example of such Mosquée de Paris, is an St-Roch p131
churches is Jacques-Germain attractive 1920s building in the St-Séverin p158
Soufflot’s Sainte-Geneviève, now Hispanic-Moorish style. It has a St-Sulpice p174
the Panthéon. Begun in 1757, grand patio, inspired by the Tour St-Jacques p117
its colonnaded dome was also Alhambra, woodwork in cedar Val-de-Grâce p175
inspired by Christopher Wren’s and eucalyptus, and a fountain.
Val-de-Grâce St-Sulpice Sainte- Grande
Clotilde Mosquée
de Paris







Baroque and Classical Neo-Classical Gothic Revival Modern




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52  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Paris’s Best: Gardens, Parks and Squares

Few cities can boast the infinite variety of styles
found in Parisian gardens, parks and squares today.
They date from many different periods and have
been central to Parisian life for the past 300 years.
The Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Vincennes
enclose the city with their lush, green open spaces,
while elegant squares and landscaped gardens, such
as the Jardin du Luxembourg, brighten the inner city
and provide a retreat for those craving a few Parc Monceau
moments’ peace from the bustling city. This English-style park features many follies,
grottoes, magnificent trees and rare plants.








Champs-Elysées Opéra
Quarter
Tuileries
Quarter
Chaillot
Quarter
R i v e r S e i n e

Invalides and Eiffel
Tower Quarter
St-Germain-
des-Prés









Montparnasse
Bois de Boulogne
The Bagatelle gardens, set in this wooded park,
have an amazing array of flowers, including
the spectacular rose garden.





Esplanade des
Invalides
From this huge Jardin
square, lined with des Tuileries
lime trees, are These gardens are renowned
some brilliant for ornamental ponds, terraces
views over and the collection of bronze
the quays. figures by Aristide Maillol.




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P ARIS A T A GLANCE  53

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
Once a scraggy hilltop, this park was
transformed to provide open spaces for the
growing city. It is now beautifully landscaped
with huge cliffs revealing caves.










Square du Vert-Galant
The square, named after
Henri IV’s nickname, Place des Vosges
forms the west point Considered one of the most beautiful
of the Ile de la Cité. squares in the world, it was finished in
1612 and is the oldest square in Paris.
Opéra
Quarter
Tuileries
Quarter
Beaubourg
and Les Jardin des Plantes
Halles The botanical garden
The Marais has a vast collection
of plants and
flowers from around
the world.
St-Germain- Ile de la
Cité
des-Prés
Ile St-Louis
Latin
Quarter


Luxembourg
Quarter
Montparnasse
Jardin des Plantes
Quarter
Bois de Vincennes
The flower garden in this charming
park is the perfect place to relax.








Jardin du Luxembourg
This park is a favourite with 0 kilometres 1
Parisians wanting to escape 0 miles 0.5
the bustle of the Latin Quarter.




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54  INTRODUCING P ARIS


Exploring Gardens, Parks and Squares
Paris is dotted with many areas of parkland, intimate gardens Marcel Proust, who once played
and attractive tree-lined squares. Each is a reminder of the here as a child.
French capital’s illustrious past. Many squares were formed A haven of peace in a busy
district is the Jardin du Palais-
during Napoleon III’s transformation of the city, creating a Royal, built by Cardinal Richelieu
pleasant environment for Parisians to live in (see pp36–7). in the 17th century. An elegant
This aim has been preserved right up to the present day. arcade encloses the garden. The
Paris’s parks and gardens have their own character; some 19th-century Parc Monceau, in
are ideal for a stroll, others for romance, while some provide the English picturesque style,
space for sporting activities such as a game of boules. has follies and grottoes. The flat
Jardins des Invalides and the
landscaped Champ-de-Mars
were the grounds of the Hôtel
des Invalides and the Ecole
Militaire. They were the site of
the Paris Universal Exhi bition,
whose reminder is the Eiffel
Tower (pp196–7).
An attractive public garden
is attached to the lovely Hôtel
Biron, home of the Musée
Rodin. The 17th-century
botanical garden Jardin des
Plantes is famous for its ancient
Engraving of the Jardin du Palais-Royal (1645) trees, flowers, alpine garden,
hothouses and small zoo.
the bronze nudes by Aristide
Historic Gardens
Maillol (1861–1944).
The oldest public gardens in The Jardin du Luxembourg
Paris were made for queens of also has the traditional formal 19th-Century Parks
and Squares
France – the Jardin des Tuileries plan – straight paths, clipped
for Catherine de Médicis in the lawns, Classical sculpture and a The great 19th-century parks
16th century, and the Jardin superb 17th-century fountain. It and squares owe much to
du Luxembourg for Marie de is shadier and more intimate Napoleon III’s long exile in
Médicis in the 17th century. The than the Tuileries, with lots of London before he came to
Tuileries form the beginning of seats, pony rides and puppet power. The unregimented
the axis running from the Arc de shows to amuse the children. planting and rolling lawns of
Triomphe du Carrousel through The Jardins des Champs- Hyde Park and the leafy squares
the Arc de Triomphe (pp212–13) Elysées, also by Le Nôtre, were of Mayfair inspired him to bring
to La Défense (p248). These reshaped in the English style trees, fresh air and park benches
gardens retain the formality during the 19th century. The to what was then Europe’s most
devised by landscape architect gardens have Belle Époque congested and dirty capital.
André Le Nôtre, originally for pavilions, three theatres Under his direction, landscape
the Palace of Versailles. Many (L’Espace Pierre Cardin, Théâtre gardener Adolphe Alphand
of the Jardin des Tuileries’ Marigny and the Théâtre du turned two woods at opposite
original sculptures survive, as Rond-Point), smart restaurants – ends of the city, the Bois de
well as modern pieces, notably and the ghost of the novelist Boulogne (known as the “Bois”)
Follies and Rotundas Egyptian
pyramid
Dramatic features of Paris’s parks and gardens
are the many follies and rotundas. Every age of
garden design has produced these ornaments.
The huge Gloriette de Buffon in the Jardin des
Plantes was erected as a memorial to the great
naturalist (p168). It is the oldest metal structure
in Paris. The pyramid in the Parc Monceau, the
oriental temple in the Bois de Boulogne, and
the 19th-century temple of love in the Bois de
Vincennes reflect a more sentimental age. In
contrast are the stark, painted-concrete
Sculpture in the Jardin du Luxembourg follies that grace the Parc de la Villette. Parc Monceau




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P ARIS A T A GLANCE  55


and the Bois de Vincennes,
into English-style parks with
duck ponds, lakes and flower
gardens. He also added a
racecourse to the “Bois”. Its
most attractive feature is the
Bagatelle rose garden and the
Jardin d’Acclimatation, a small
theme park for families.
The two smaller Alphand
parks are also pleasant, Parc
Montsouris in the south and the
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont in
the northeast. The “Buttes” (hills),
a favourite with the Surrealists,
was a quarry trans formed into
two craggy mini-mountains with
overhanging vegetation, a Fountains and sculpture in the Jardins du Trocadéro
suspended bridge, temple of
love and a lake. Modern Parks above the Viaduc des Arts is
Part of the town-planning a peaceful way to observe
schemes for the old city included and Gardens eastern Paris.
squares and avenues with The shady Jardins du
fountains, sculptures, benches Trocadéro sloping down to Finding the Gardens,
and greenery. One of the best is the river from the Palais de
Ile de la Cité’s Square du Vert- Chaillot were planted after Parks and Squares
Galant. The Avenue de the 1937 Universal Exhibition. Bois de Boulogne (Bagatelle rose
l’Observatoire in the Jardin du Here is the largest fountain garden) p247
Luxembourg is rich in sculptures in Paris and fine views of the Bois de Vincennes p249
made by Jean-Baptiste Carpeaux. river and the Eiffel Tower. Champ-de-Mars p193
More recent Paris gardens Forum des Halles p115
eschew formality in favour of Jardin du Luxembourg p174
wilder planting, multiple levels, Jardin du Palais-Royal p131
maze-like paths, children’s Jardin des Plantes p169
gardens and modern sculpture. Jardin des Tuileries p132
Typical are the Parc André Jardins des Champs-
Citroën, the Parc de la Villette Elysées p209
and the Jardin Atlantique next Jardins des Invalides p187
Jardins du Trocadéro p203
to the Gare Montparnasse. Musée Rodin p191
Pleasant strolls may be taken Palace of Versailles pp250–51
in Paris’s waterside gardens: in Parc André Citroën p245
the modern sculpture park Parc des Buttes-Chaumont p236
behind Notre-Dame, at the & pp272–3
Bassin de l’Arsenal at the Bastille, Parc Monceau p234 & pp262–3
and along the quays of the Parc Montsouris p244–5
Seine between the Louvre and Parc de la Villette pp238–9
the Place de la Concorde, or on Square du Vert-Galant p91
Relaxing in Parc Montsouris, one of the elegantly residential Ile Viaduc des Arts pp274–5
Adolphe Alphand’s smaller parks St-Louis. The planted walkway

Oriental
Gloriette de Temple
Buffon temple of love Modern folly









Jardin des Plantes Bois de Boulogne Bois de Vincennes Parc de la Villette




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56  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Paris’s Best: Museums and Galleries

Some of the oldest, the newest, and certainly some
of the finest museums and galleries are to be found
in Paris – many are superb works of art in their own
right. They house some of the greatest and strangest
collections in the world. Some of the buildings
complement their themes, such as the Roman baths
and Gothic mansion which form the Musée National
du Moyen Age, or the Pompidou Centre, a modern
masterpiece. Elsewhere there is pleasing contrast,
such as the Picassos in their gracious 17th-century Musée des Arts Décoratifs
museum, and the Musée d’Orsay housed in its Decorative and ornamental art, like this
grand old railway station. Together, they make Paris bathroom by Jeanne Lanvin, is
displayed here.
an unrivalled feast for visitors.


Champs-Elysées
Chaillot Quarter




R i v e r S e i n e


Invalides and Eiffel
Tower Quarter
Petit Palais
A collection of works
by the 19th-century St-Germain-
sculptor Jean-Baptiste des-Prés
Carpeaux is housed
here, including The
Fisherman and Shell.


Musée du quai Branly
This wooden sculpture from Papua New
Guinea is one of 3,500 artifacts housed in
this striking anthropological museum. Montparnasse







Musée Rodin
The museum brings together
works bequeathed to the nation
by sculptor Auguste Rodin, like the
magnificent Gates of Hell doors.
Musée d’Orsay
Carpeaux’s Four Quarters
of the World (1867–72)
can be found among
this collection of
19th-century art.




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P ARIS A T A GLANCE  57

Musée du Louvre
The museum boasts one
of the world’s great
collections of paintings
and sculpture, from the
ancient civilizations to
the 19th century. This
Babylonian monument,
the Code of Hammurabi,
is the oldest set of laws
in existence.


Pompidou Centre
Paris’s modern art collection from 1905 to the present
day is housed here. The centre also has art libraries
and an industrial design centre.




Opéra
Quarter

Tuileries
Quarter Beaubourg
and Les
Halles
The Marais

Musée Picasso Paris
St-Germain- Ile de la Sculptor and Model (1931) is one of
des-Prés Cité many paintings on display in Picasso’s
private collection, “inherited” in lieu of
tax by the French government after
Ile St-Louis his death in 1973.
Latin
Quarter

Luxembourg
Quarter
Montparnasse Jardin des Plantes
Quarter



Musée Carnavalet
This museum devoted to the history
of Paris will reopen in 2019 following
major renovations. Its historic buildings
surround attractive garden courtyards.

Musée de Cluny – Musée
National du Moyen Age
The remains of the Gallo- 0 kilometres 1
Roman baths are part of this 0 miles 0.5
museum of ancient and
medieval art.




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58  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Exploring Paris’s Museums and Galleries

Paris holds great treasures in its museums and art galleries.
The major national art collection is to be found at the Musée
du Louvre, which began collecting over 400 years ago and is
still growing. Other important museums, such as the Musée
d’Orsay, the Musée du quai Branly and the Pompidou Centre,
have their own treasures, but there are scores of smaller,
specialized museums, each with its own interest.


Old Masters
The Mona Lisa was one of
the Musée du Louvre’s first
paintings, acquired over
400 years ago. It also has
other fine Leonardos. They Dead Poet in the Musée Gustave Moreau
are to be found along
with superb Titians, it also devotes a lot of space to
Altar, Musée National du Moyen Age Raphaels and other Italian the earlier Realists and the
masters. Other works include formerly reviled 19th-century
Rembrandt’s Pilgrims at academic and “Salon” masters.
Greek, Roman and Emmäus, Watteau’s Gilles and There are superb works by
Medieval Art
Fragonard’s The Bathers. The Degas, Manet, Courbet
The Musée du Louvre has a Musée Cognacq-Jay has a (including his controversial
fine collection of sculptures small, but exquisite, collection L’Origine du Monde), Monet,
from Greek and Roman times, of paintings and drawings by Renoir, Millet, Cézanne,
along with medieval sculptures 18th- century French painters. Bonnard and Vuillard, and
and vestiges of the medieval The Musée Jacquemart-André some fine Gauguins, Van
Louvre under the Sully wing. has works by such masters as Goghs and Seurats.
The Musée de Cluny–Musée Mantegna, Uccello, Canaletto, A great ensemble of late
National du Moyen Age, a Rembrandt and Chardin. Monets is to be found at the
superb 15th-century mansion, Musée Marmottan Monet and
houses a major medieval Impressionist and Post- another at the Musée de
collection. Highlights are the l’Orangerie, including Monet’s
Unicorn Tapestries, the Kings’ Impressionist Art last great water lily murals
Heads from Notre-Dame and Installed in a converted (1920–25). Here also is a good
Basel Cathedral’s golden altar. 19th- century railway station, collection of Cézannes and
Late first-century Roman baths the Musée d’Orsay boasts late Renoirs.
adjoin the museum. Remains of the world’s largest collection Three artists’ studios and
houses from Roman and of art from the period 1848– homes are now museums of
medieval Paris can be seen in 1904. Admired for its fine their life and work. The Musée
the Crypte Archéologique Impressionist and Post- Rodin, in an attractive 18th-
near Notre-Dame cathedral. Impressionist collect ions, century mansion and garden,
offers a complete survey of the
master’s sculptures, drawings
and paintings. The Musée
Delacroix, set in a garden
near St-Germain-des-Prés, has
sketches, prints and oils by
the Romantic artist. The
Musée Gustave Moreau, in
an atmospheric 19th-century
town house, has an
extraordinary collection of
intricately painted canvases
of legendary femmes fatales
and dying youths. The Petit
Palais has an interesting
collection of 19th-century
paintings with four major
Dante and Virgil in the Underworld (1822) by Delacroix, Musée du Louvre Courbets, including The Sleep.




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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v1.2)
Date 17th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

P ARIS A T A GLANCE  59


(17th–18th century). Furniture 18th-century Paris Mint at the
Modern and and objets d’art from the Middle Musée de la Monnaie. French
Contemporary Art Ages to the present coins are no longer
The Pompidou Centre houses century are arranged minted here, but the
the Musée National d’Art in period rooms at old Mint still makes
Moderne, covering 1905 to the the Musée des Arts medals which are
present. It has a good selection Décoratifs. The on sale. Stamps
of Fauvist and Cubist Musée d’Orsay has are on show at the
works, particularly by a large collection Musée de la Poste.
Matisse, Rouault, Braque of 19th-century The history of postal
and Leger, as well as furniture, notably services is also
works by the 1960s’ Art Nouveau. Louis covered, as are all
Nouveaux Réalistes. XV (1715–74) and aspects of philately
The Musée d’Art Louis XVI (1774– Cabinet, Musée old and new, with
Moderne de la Ville de 93) furniture and des Arts Décoratifs temporary shows
Paris, in the elegant decoration can be found on current philatelic design.
1930s Palais de Tokyo, in the Musée Nissim de Visitors can marvel at the vast
also has an excellent Camondo, a mansion national collection of minerals
collection, including from 1912 facing the Parc on display at the Musée de
Delaunays, Bonnards Monceau. Other notable Minéralogie, which is housed
and Fauvist collections are the in the Ecole Nationale
paintings. The Musée Cognacq-Jay; the Supérieure des Mines. The
highlight is Musée Carnavalet (closed collection includes 100,000
Matisse’s 1932 until 2019); the Musée samples of minerals, rocks,
mural The Dance. Jacquemart-André (French meteorites, gems, ores and
In the opposite Penelope by furniture and earthenware); artificial minerals from
wing of the same Bourdelle the Musée Marmottan 72 different countries.
building, the Palais Monet (Empire) and Musée
de Tokyo showcases some of d’Art Moderne de la Ville de
today’s most avant-garde artists. Paris (Art Deco). Fashion and Costume
The Musée Picasso Paris, in The two rival fashion museums
a lovely 17th-century mansion, in Paris are the Palais Galliera
has the world’s largest Picasso and the Musée de la Mode
collection, including paintings, within the Musée des Arts
drawings and sculptures. Décoratifs. Neither has a
Picasso, Matisse, Modigliani, permanent collection, but
Utrillo and late Derains make both hold regular shows
up the collection on display devoted to the great Paris
at the Musée de l’Orangerie. couturiers, such as Saint Laurent
For modern sculpture, the Postboxes, Musée de la Poste and Givenchy. They sometimes
small Musée Zadkine has display fashion accessories
Cubist work by a minor school Specialist Museums as well and, more rarely
whose leading light was Ossip but always fascinatingly,
Zadkine. The Musée Antoine Devotees of antique sporting historical costumes.
Bourdelle and the Musée guns, muskets and hounds
Maillol house works by these of the chase should make for
two sculptors. The Frank Gehry- the attractive Marais Musée
designed Fondation Louis de la Chasse et de la Nature
Vuitton houses contemporary (Hôtel de Guénégaud). This
works by the likes of Gilbert & museum also has some fine
George, Jeff Koons and Jean- 18th-century animal paintings
Michel Basquiat. by Jean-Baptiste Oudry and
Alexandre-François Desportes,
as well as others by Rubens
Furniture, Decorative and Brueghel. The Musée de la
Arts and Objets d’Art
Contrefaçon gives a fascinating
Pride of place after painting insight into the world of
must go to furniture and the counterfeit with examples from
decorative arts, contained in a every luxury trade, including
plethora of museums. Fine perfume, wines and spirits, and
ensembles of French furnish ings clothing. Numismatists will
and decoration are in the Louvre find an extensive coin and
(medieval to Napoleonic) and medallion collection housed in
at the Palace of Versailles luxurious surroundings at the Poster for the Palais Galliera




058-059_EW_Paris.indd 59 03/04/17 10:49 am

60  INTRODUCING P ARIS


artifacts from the French Revo- Paris’s last surviving vineyard,
Asian, African lution. Although closed until holds exhibitions on the history
and Oceanian Art 2019, it occupies two handsome of Montmartre.
The major collection of Asian Marais hôtels. Also in the Marais,
art in France is housed at the the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du
Musée National des Arts Judaïsme explores the culture Architecture and Design
Asiatiques Guimet, covering of French Jewry. The Musée The Cité de l’Architecture
China, Tibet, Japan, Korea, de l’Armée, in the Hôtel des et du Patrimoine charts the
Indochina, Indonesia, Invalides, recounts French history of French architecture
India and Central Asia. military history, and the with scale models of its most
It includes Chinese Musée de l’Histoire de iconic buildings. Superb scale
bronzes and lacquerware France, in the Rococo models of fort resses built for
and some of the best Hôtel de Soubise, Louis XIV and later are on show
Khmer art outside has historical at the Musée des Plans-Reliefs.
Cambodia. documents The work of the celebrated
The Musée from the Franco-Swiss architect forms the
Cernuschi has a national archives basis of the Fondation Le
smaller but well- on display. Famous Corbusier.The showpiece is his
chosen Chinese Sri Lankan tableaux vivants and 1920s villa for his friend, art
collection, noted for theatrical mask characters, both current collector Raoul La Roche. Some
its ancient bronzes and and historical, await of his furniture is also on display.
reliefs. France’s premier the visitor at the Grévin wax The Pavillon de l’Arsenal is
showcase for African, Asian, museum. The charming Musée devoted to the architectural
Native American and Oceanian de Montmartre, overlooking development of Paris itself.
arts and cultures is the Musée
du quai Branly, which The French Impressionists
displays 3,500 objects in truly
breathtaking surroundings. everyday life by Manet and
The Musée Dapper also houses Courbet often offended the
African art and is part of an academicians who legislated
important ethnographic artistic taste. In 1863 Manet’s
research centre, housed in an Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (see p147)
elegant 1901 hôtel particulier was exhibited at the Salon des
with an “African” garden. Its Refusés, an exhibition set up
collection of tribal masks is for paintings rejected by the
particularly dazzling. official Paris Salon of that year.
The first time the term
Impression: Sunrise by Monet
“Impressionist” was used to
Impressionism, the great describe this new artistic
art revolution of the 19th movement was at another
century, began in Paris in unofficial exhibition, in 1874.
the 1860s, when young The name came from a
painters, influenced in painting by Claude
part by the new art of Monet, Impression:
photography, started Sunrise, a view of
to break with the Le Havre in the
academic values of mist from 1872.
the past. They aimed Monet was almost
to capture the exclusively a
“impression” of what the landscape artist,
eye sees at a given Monet’s influenced by the works
moment and used sketchbooks of the English artists
brushwork designed Constable and Turner.
to capture the fleeting He always liked to paint
effects of light falling on a
Café in the Musée de Montmartre scene. Their favourite subjects
were landscapes and scenes
from contemporary urban life.
History and Social History The movement had no
founder, though Edouard
The Musée Carnavalet is Manet (1832–83) and the
devoted to the history of Paris, radical Realist painter Gustave
with some intriguing exhibits Courbet (1819–77) both
exploring daily and domestic life inspired many of the younger
in the city. Another fascinating artists. Paintings of scenes of Harvesting (1876) by Pissarro
section covers events and



060-061_EW_Paris.indd 60 03/04/17 10:49 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Flashmap follow-on template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.2)
Date 17th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

P ARIS A T A GLANCE  61


Next door, the Musée National
de la Marine covers French naval
history from the 17th century
onwards, with interesting
18th-century models of ships and
sculpted figure-heads. The Musée
des Arts et Métiers displays the
world of science and industry,
invention and manufacturing.
The Palais de la Découverte
covers the history of science and
has a good planetarium, some-
what over shadowed by the
specta cular one at the Cité des
Sciences in the Parc de la Villette.
This mus eum is on several levels,
The living room of La Roche Villa by Le Corbusier (1923) with an IMAX 3D movie screen,
the Géode.
entomology, anatomy and
Science and Technology
botany, plus a zoo and a
In the Jardin des Plantes, the botanical garden. In the Palais Finding the Museums
Muséum National d’Histoire de Chaillot, the Musée de Cité de l’Architecture et du
Patrimoine p202
Naturelle has sections on l’Homme is a museum of Cité des Sciences pp240–41
palaeontology, minerology, anthro pology and prehistory. Crypte Archéologique pp86–7
Fondation Le Corbusier pp246–7
Fondation Louis Vuitton p247
Hôtel de Guénégaud p105
Hôtel de Soubise p105
Musée Antoine Bourdelle p180
Musée de l’Armée p190
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du
Judaïsme p105
Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville
de Paris p205
Musée des Arts Décoratifs p132
Musée des Arts et Métiers p105
Musée Carnavalet pp96–7
Musée Cernuschi p235
Musée Cognacq-Jay p98
Musée de la Contrefaçon p204
Gabrielle (1910) by Renoir Musée Dapper p204
Musée Eugène Delacroix p140
out of doors and encouraged rejected all his life, Degas sold Musée Galliera p205
others to follow his example. only one painting to a museum, Musée Grévin p220
At the 1874 exhibition, a critic and Sisley died unknown. Musée Guimet p204–5
Musée Gustave Moreau p235
wrote that one should stand well Of the great artists whose Musée de l’Homme p203
back to see these “impressions” – genius is now universally Musée Jacquemart-André p211
the further back the better – recognized, only Renoir and Musée du Louvre pp122–9
and that members of the Monet were ever acclaimed Musée Maillol p191
establishment should retreat in their lifetimes. Musée Marmottan-Monet p247
Musée de Minéralogie p175
altogether. Other exhibitors at the Musée de la Monnaie p143
show were Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Musée de Montmartre p228
Edgar Degas, Camille Pissarro, Musée National d’Art Moderne
Alfred Sisley and Paul Cézanne. pp110–13
Musée National de la Marine p203
There were seven more Musée National du Moyen Age
Impressionist shows up to 1886. pp154–7
By then the power of the Salon Musée Nissim de Camondo pp234–5
had waned and the whole Musée de l’Orangerie p133
Musée d’Orsay pp146–9
direction of art had changed. Musée Picasso Paris pp100–101
From then on, new movements Musée des Plans-Reliefs p190
were defined in terms of their Musée de la Poste p180
relation to Impressionism. The Musée du quai Branly pp194–5
leading Neo-Impressionist was Musée Rodin p191
Musée Zadkine p180
Georges Seurat, who used Muséum National d’Histoire
thousands of minute dots of Naturelle pp168–9
colour to build up his paintings. Palais de la Découverte p210
It took later generations to fully Palais de Tokyo p205
Pavillon de l’Arsenal p102
appreciate the work of the Petit Palais pp210–11
Impressionists. Cézanne was Profile of a Model (1887) by Seurat Pompidou Centre pp110–13
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62  INTRODUCING P ARIS

Artists in Paris

The city first attracted artists during the
reign of Louis XIV (1643–1715), and Paris
soon became the most sophisticated
artistic centre in Europe; the magnetism
has persisted. During the 18th century,
all major French artists lived and worked
in Paris. In the latter half of the 19th
century and early part of the 20th century,
the French capital was the European
centre of modern and progressive art,
and movements such as Impressionism,
Post-Impressionism, Divisionism, Fauvism Boucher’s Diana Bathing (1742), typical of the Rococo style (Louvre)
and Cubism were founded and blossomed
in the city. Many artists from all around
the world came to Paris to display their 1793 Louvre opens
works in the many exhibitions and salons. as first national
public gallery


1667 First Salon, France’s official art exhibition;
originally held annually, later every two years

1600 1650 1700 1750 1800
Baroque Rococo Neo-Classicism Romanticism/ Realism
1600 1650 1700 1750 1800



1627 Vouet
returns from
Italy and is
made court
painter by Louis
XIII. Vouet
revived a dismal
period in the
fortunes of
French painting
Philippe de Champaigne’s Last Supper (about
1652). His style slowly became more Classical 1819 Géricault paints
in his later years (Louvre) The Raft of the Medusa, one of
the greatest works of French
Romanticism (see p124)
1648 Foundation of
the Académie Royale
de Peinture et de
Sculpture, which had
a virtual monopoly
on art teaching

Vouet’s The Presentation
in the Temple (1641) with
typically Baroque contrasts
of light and shade (Louvre)
David’s The Oath of the Horatii (1784), in the
Neo-Classical style (Louvre)




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P ARIS A T A GLANCE  63



Giacometti’s Standing Woman II
(1959), in the Pompidou
Centre, one of his many
tall, thin bronze figures
2006 Jacques Chirac’s
presidential project, the Musée
du quai Branly, opens its doors.
Courbet’s The Burial at Ornans It is a museum entirely devoted
(1850) which showed Courbet to the arts of Africa, Asia, Oceania
to be the foremost exponent and America
of Realism (Musée d’Orsay)
2014 World-famous
Rude’s Departure of Musée Picasso,
the Volunteers in 1792 housed in the 17th
(1836), a tribute century Hôtel Salé,
to the French reopens after a five-
Revolution (see p213) year renovation. It
contains over 5,000
pieces, the largest
1874 First 1904 Picasso collection of Picasso’s
Impressionist settles in Paris works in the world
exhibition
1886 Van 2016 The Carnavalet,
Gogh Paris’s leading history
moves museum, closes for
to Paris three years for major
refurbishment
1905 Birth of Fauvism, the first
of the “isms” in modern art
1800 1850 1900 1950 2000 2050
Romanticism/ Realism Impressionism Modernism
1800 1850 1900 1950 2000 2050
2015 The Musée de
1863 Manet’s Le Déjeuner sur
l’Herbe (see p147) causes a l’Homme reopens after
scandalous sensation at the six years of renovations
Salon des Refusés, both for 1977 Pompidou
“poor moral taste”, and for its Centre opens 2014 Designed by
broad brushstrokes. The artist’s Canadian-American
Olympia was thought just as architect Frank Gehry to
outrageous, but it was not resemble a cloud of glass,
exhibited until 1865 1938 International the Fondation Louis Vuitton
Surrealist exhibition in Paris opens to much acclaim.
It houses 11 galleries
accommodating a
2011 Major two-year refurbishment of permanent collection
Musée d’Orsay complete, with new lighting to of contemporary art
enhance viewing of Impressionist works of art
Monet’s Impression: Sunrise
(1872), which led to the
name Impressionism









Delacroix’s Liberty Tinguely and Saint Phalle’s
Leading the People (1830) Fontaine Igor Stravinsky (1980),
romantically celebrates a modern kinetic sculpture
victory in war (Louvre) (Pompidou Centre)




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64  INTRODUCING P ARIS

PARIS THROUGH THE YEAR

Paris’s pulling power is strongest in spring – The end of July also sees the end of Paris’s
the season for sitting at tables under trees. month-long Jazz Festival, after which most
From June, Paris is slowly turned over to Parisians abandon the city to visitors until
tourists; the city almost comes to a standstill la rentrée, the return to school and work in
for the French Tennis Open at Roland September. Dates of events listed on the
Garros, and the major race tracks stage the following pages may vary. For details
big summer horse races. Next comes the consult the list ings magazines. The Office
14 July Bastille Day parade down the du Tourisme et des Congrès de Paris
Champs-Elysées; towards the end of July, (see p359) also produces an annual
the Tour de France usually ends here. calendar of events.


Spring
A good many of the city’s
annual 20 million visitors
arrive in the spring. It is the
season for fairs and concerts,
when the marathon street
race is held and the outdoor
temperature is pleasant.
Spring is also the time when
hoteliers offer weekend
packages, often with tickets
for jazz concerts and museum
passes included.
March
Spring flower shows at Parc French Tennis Open, Stade Roland Garros
Floral (Bois de Vincennes, p249)
and Bagatelle Gardens (Bois de Foire du Trône (late Mar–May), Grandes Concerts de Versailles
Boulogne, p247). Bois de Vincennes (p249). (Sep–May), Versailles (pp250–55).
Salon International Large funfair. Open-air concerts and
d’Agriculture (end Feb–early pyrotechnical displays on
Mar), Paris-Expo, Porte de April Versailles lake.
Versailles. Vast farming fair. Paris International Marathon French Tennis Open (last
Banlieues Bleues Festival (mid- from Place de la Concorde to week May –1st week Jun),
Mar–early Apr), Paris suburbs. Avenue Foch. Stade Roland Garros (p350).
Jazz, blues, soul and funk. Chemin de la Croix (Good Parisian society meets sport!
Printemps du Cinema (3 days Friday). Beautiful Stations of Le Printemps des Rues
late Mar). Films can be seen the Cross procession, from (3rd w/end). Concerts
for a very reasonable price Montmartre to Sacré-Coeur. and free street theatre
at cinemas across Paris and Paris Ceramics Festival are held in the Bastille/
throughout France. (mid-Apr). Renowned artists République area.
display their wares related to
various themes.
Foire de Paris (end Apr–1st week
May), Paris Expo, Porte de
Versailles. Food, wine, homes
and gardens and tourism show.
May
Shakespeare Garden Festival
(until Oct), Bois de Boulogne
(p247). Classic plays performed
outdoors.
Carré Rive Gauche (one week,
mid-month). Exhibits at antiques
dealers in and around
Jazz at the Banlieues Bleues Festival St-Germain-des-Prés (p137). Paris International Marathon




064-065_EW_Paris.indd 64 03/04/17 10:49 am

P ARIS THROUGH THE Y EAR  65


Average Daily Hours of Sunshine
Hours Hours
10 10
8 8
Sunshine Hours
6 6 The northerly position
of Paris gives it long
4 4 and light summer
evenings, but in
2 2 winter the daylight
recedes with few
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec truly bright days.

Summer
Summer begins with the French
Tennis Open, and there are
many events and festivities until
July. Thereafter, the French
begin thinking of their own
annual holiday, but there are big
celebrations on Bastille Day (14
July) with military displays for
the president and his guests.


Final lap of the Champs-Elysées during the Tour de France
Fête de la Musique (21 Jun), all Paris Air and Space
over Paris. Nightlong summer Technology Show (Jun,
solstice musical celebrations. alternate years, next show
Fête du Cinéma (late Jun–early 2017), Le Bourget Airport.
Jul). Films shown all over Paris
for a nominal entry fee (p348). July
Fête des Jardins à Bagatelle, Festival du Cinéma en Plein
Bois de Boulogne (p247). Air (mid-Jul–Aug), Parc de la
Jardin du Luxembourg in summer Celebrating rose season. Villette (pp238–9).
Paris Jazz Festival (Jun –Jul), Parc Paris Quartier d’Eté
June Floral de Paris. Jazz musicians (mid-Jul–mid-Aug). Dance,
Festival St-Denis, Basilique- come to play in Paris (pp341–2). music, theatre, ballet.
Cathédrale de St-Denis. Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes Paris Plages (mid-Jul–mid-
Concerts emphasize large- (mid-Jun–mid-Sep), Versailles Aug). Sand and palm trees
scale choral works (p338). (pp250–55). Lights and fountains deposited on the Right Bank
Prix de Diane-Longines in the gardens, with music, of the Seine create a beach.
(mid-Jun), Chantilly. French dance and theatre. Tour de France (late Jul). The
equivalent of the British Ascot Gay Pride (end Jun). Lively world’s greatest cycle race
high society horse-racing event. parade around the Bastille. ends on the Champs-Elysées.












March past of troops on Bastille Day (14 July)




064-065_EW_Paris.indd 65 03/04/17 10:49 am

66  INTRODUCING P ARIS


Average Monthly Temperature Temperature
The chart shows the
°C °F average temp eratures for
30 90 each month. It is hottest
25 80 in July and August and
coolest between
20 70
December and Feb ruary,
15 60 though Paris is rarely
freezing cold. Tempera-
10 50
tures are pleasant in the
5 40 spring when the number
0 30 of visitors peaks, and also
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec in autumn.
October
Nuit Blanche (one Sat in Oct).
Art installations around the city
spice up night-time strolls.
Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe
(1st week), Longchamp. An
international field competes
for the richest prize in
European horse-racing.
Salon de l’Automobile (1st
fortnight, alternate years), Paris
Expo, Porte de Versailles.
Commercial motor show,
alternated annually in even
years with a motorcycle show.
Foire Internationale d’Art
Autumn in the Bois de Vincennes Contemporain (FIAC) (last
week), Paris Expo, Porte de
glittering opportunities arise Versailles. Paris’s biggest
Autumn
for Parisians to indulge their international modern and
September sees the start of great love for the cinema. contemporary
the social season, with gala French and Hollywood stars art fair.
performances of new films, often make appearances at
and parties in big houses on premieres staged on the November
the Ile St-Louis. Paris is the Champs-Elysées. BNP
world’s largest congress centre Paribas
and there is a rush of shows September Masters
in September, ranging from Festival d’Automne (usually early
gifts to leisure and music. à Paris Nov), Palais
The pace barely slackens in (mid- Sep – Omnisports de
October and November when end Dec), Paris-Bercy.
throughout Prestigious
Paris. Music, dance indoor men’s
and theatre (pp338–9). tennis tournament
La Villette Jazz Festival (pp350–51).
(mid-Sep). Jazz artists Mois de la Photo
gather and blow their (Oct–Nov, every two
horns with gusto years, in even years).
through out the Cité de World-class tennis, Numerous
la Musique (p238). BNP Paribas Masters photography
Journées du Patrimoine shows, film
(2nd or 3rd week Sep). screenings and
Many historic buildings, public discussions.
monuments and museums are Beaujolais Nouveau (3rd
open free to the public for two Thursday Nov). Bars and
days, following a raucous all- cafés are crowded on this
International artists at the La Villette jazz night party to kick off day, in a race to taste the
festival proceedings. new vintage.




066-067_EW_Paris.indd 66 03/04/17 10:49 am

P ARIS THROUGH THE Y EAR  67


Average Monthly Rainfall Rainfall
August is the wettest
MM Inches
300 12 month in Paris. In
August and September,
240 you may get caught in
9
storms. Sudden
180 showers, sometimes
6 with hail, can occur
120 between January and
3 April – notoriously in
60
March. There is
0 0 occasional snow
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec in winter.
Winter
Paris rarely sees snow; winter
days tend to be invigorating
rather than chilly. There are
festivals, candlelit Christmas
church services and much
celebrating in the streets
over the New Year. After New
Year, the streets become
slightly less congested and
on bright days the quays are
a rendezvous for strollers
and lovers.
December
Christmas Illuminations
(until Jan) In the department
store windows of the Grands
Boulevards, Avenue Montaigne, Snow in the Tuileries, a rare occurrence
Opéra, Champs-Elysées and
Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré. Paris International Boat Public Holidays
Christmas Markets All through Show (1st fortnight), Paris
the month, sip mulled wine Expo, Porte de Versailles. New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
and do some holiday shopping Easter Monday varies
at one of the many outdoor January Labour Day (1 May)
Christmas markets, on the Fête des Rois (Epiphany) (6 VE Day (8 May)
Champs-Elysées and elsewhere. Jan). The boulangeries are Ascension Day (6th Thu
Salon du Cheval (1st fortnight). full of galettes des rois. after Easter)
Equestrian trade show, Prix d’Amérique (end Jan). Bastille Day (14 Jul)
Assumption (15 Aug)
exhibitions and competitions. Europe’s most famous trotting All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
race at the Hippodrome de Remembrance Day (11 Nov)
Vincennes. Christmas (25 Dec)
February
Carnaval (weekend before Mardi
Gras), Quartier de St-Fargeau.
Cultural groups, dance troupes
and local unions don costumes
for a cheerful, musical parade.
Floraisons (all month), Parc
Floral de Paris, Bois de
Vincennes (p249) and Parc de
Bagatelle, Bois de Bou logne
(p247). Say farewell to winter
with these colourful and
impressive displays of crocuses
Christmas market stall and snowdrops. Eiffel Tower Christmas decorations




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068-069_EW_Paris.indd 68 25/04/16 4:47 pm

INTRODUCING P ARIS  69
A RIVER VIEW OF PARIS


Historically, the River Seine has been a Paris’s riverbanks are well worth exploring
mode of transport, a muse for artists on foot. There are benches and playgrounds,
and an inspiration for romantics. Flowing floating cafés and discos, houseboats and
through Paris, the Seine has a profound bouquinistes – bookstalls selling second-hand
relationship with the city, and it is even a books and prints. From the Musée d’Orsay to
designated UNESCO World Heritage site, the Pont de l’Alma, about 3 km (2 miles) of the
protected as an important natural and Left Bank are part of a regeneration project
cultural location. It is also an essential point of dedicated to pedestrians, Les Berges de la
reference for the city: distances are measured Seine. This public park and promenade offers
from it, and street numbers determined by it. gorgeous views, free fitness programmes,
The Seine divides the French capital into the picnic spots and playgrounds. Further down
Left Bank, on the south side of the river, and the river, another popular initiative, Paris
the Right Bank, on the north. Plages, takes place during the summer, when
Paris’s urban development and history the Right Bank, from the Louvre to the Bassin
can be admired from the banks of this de la Villette, is turned into a giant beach, with
iconic river. The Seine borders ten of the everything you need to feel like you are in the
city’s 20 arrondissements, its two banks are South of France, from deckchairs to parasols
connected by 32 bridges, and most of Paris’s to beach volleyball.
buildings and monuments are either However, the star of this flowing boulevard
alongside it or within a stone’s throw of it. remains the Seine itself. It is busy with
From Notre-Dame to the Grand Palais, from commercial barges and sightseeing boats,
the Eiffel Tower to the Louvre, the river is like the most famous being the bateaux mouches.
a busy floating avenue, its banks providing The best way to start your visit to Paris is with
Parisians and tourists alike with an interesting a cruise down the Seine, where you can take
and dynamic walkway. in some of the city’s most illustrious sights.





See pp70–71 OPERA See pp72–3
CHAMPS-ELYSEES QUARTER
CHAILLOT
QUARTER TUILERIES
QUARTER BEAUBOURG
AND
LES HALLES
THE
Seine
MARAIS
INVALIDES
AND ST-GERMAIN-
EIFFEL TOWER DES-PRES ILE DE LA
CITE
QUARTER ILE

ST-LOUIS
LATIN
QUARTER
LUXEMBOURG
QUARTER JARDIN DES
PLANTES QUARTER
MONTPARNASSE

This map shows the sections of the river 0 kilometres 2
depicted on the following pages. 0 miles 1

View of the Seine from Notre-Dame For keys to symbols see back flap



068-069_EW_Paris.indd 69 25/04/16 4:47 pm

70  INTRODUCING P ARIS

From Pont de Grenelle to Pont de la Concorde

The soaring monuments and
grand exhibition halls along
this stretch of the river are
remnants of the Napoleonic
era and the Industrial
Revolution with its great
exhibitions. The exhilarating
self-confidence of the Eiffel
Tower, the Petit Palais and Palais de Chaillot Palais de Tokyo
the Grand Palais is matched The curved wings and arching Figures by Bourdelle adorn
by more recent buildings, fountains make this a spectacular this museum (p205).
setting for three museums and
such as the Palais de a theatre (p202).
Chaillot, the Maison de
Radio-France and the Bateaux Parisiens
skyscrapers of the Tour Eiffel
Left Bank. Trocadéro Vedettes de Paris Ile
de France
Passerelle
Debilly

The Statue of Liberty was given to
the city in 1885. It faces west, towards
the original Liberty in New York.

Pont
d’Iéna



Musée du quai
Passy
Maison de Radio-France Branly
Studios and a radio (pp194–5)
museum are housed in this Champ de
circular building (p204). Pont de Mars
Bir-Hakeim


Bir-Hakeim
Eiffel Tower
Ave Du Prés. The tower is
Kennedy the symbol of
Paris (pp196–7).




Pont de Bir-Hakeim
has a dynamic statue
by Wederkinch rising
Ile aux Cignes at its north end.
Pont de Grenelle








070-071_EW_Paris.indd 70 25/04/16 5:02 pm

A RIVER VIE W OF P ARIS  71


Petit Palais
Now the Paris museum of
fine arts, this was first
designed as a companion to
the Grand Palais (p210).

Grand Palais Champs-Elysées
Major exhibitions and a science Clemenceau
museum are based here (p210).






Alma
Marceau
Pont de la
Pont de Pont des Invalides Pont Concorde
l’Alma Alexandre III
Passerelle
Debilly Pont de Invalides
l’Alma






Bateaux Mouches



Musée du quai
Branly
(pp194–5)
Pont Alexandre III
Flamboyant statuary
decorates Paris’s most
ornate bridge (p210).
The Zouave is a statue The Liberty Flame,
of a soldier on a central commemorating
pier of the bridge. It French Resistance fight-
is used by Parisians to ers, is also an unofficial
measure the level memorial to Diana,
of the Seine when it Princess of Wales.
is in flood.






Assemblée Nationale Palais-Bourbon
Louis XIV’s daughter once owned this
palace, which is now used by the
Chambre des Députés as the national
forum for political debate (p192).
Dôme des Invalides
The majestic gilded dome (pp188–9) is here seen
from Pont Alexandre III.
For keys to symbols see back flap



070-071_EW_Paris.indd 71 25/04/16 5:02 pm

72  INTRODUCING P ARIS

From Pont de la Concorde to Pont de Sully

The historic heart of Paris lies
on the banks and islands of
the east river. At its centre is
the Ile de la Cité, a natural
stepping stone across the
Seine and the cultural core of
medieval Paris. Today, it is still
vital to Parisian life.
Jardin des Tuileries
These gardens are in the
formal style (p132). Musée du Louvre
Before becoming the world’s greatest
museum and home to the Mona Lisa, this
was Europe’s largest royal palace (pp122–9).

Pont de la
Concorde

Assemblée
Nationale
Passerelle
Solférino

Quai d’Orsay Pont Royal
Pont du
Carrousel
Passerelle
des Arts
Pont Neuf





Musée de l’Orangerie
An important collection
of 19th-century
paintings is on display Bâteaux Vedettes
here (p133). Passerelle des Arts du Pont Neuf
This steel reconstruction
of Paris’s first cast-iron
bridge (1804) was
inaugurated in 1984.










Musée d’Orsay Hôtel des Monnaies
Paris’s most important collection of Built in 1771–75, this former Mint
Impressionist art is housed in this converted has a fine coin collection in its old
railway station (pp146–9). milling halls (p143).
For keys to symbols see back flap



072-073_EW_Paris.indd 72 25/04/16 4:17 pm

A RIVER VIE W OF P ARIS  73

Ile de la Cité
The medieval identity of this small island was
almost wiped out in the 19th century by Baron
Haussmann’s grand scheme. Sainte-Chapelle and
parts of the Conciergerie are the only buildings
of the period that remain. The Square du Vert-
Galant, a park at the island’s western tip, has views
of the Louvre and the Right Bank (pp78–91).







Conciergerie
During the Revolution, this
building, with its distinctive
Pont Neuf towers, became notorious as
Paris’s oldest standing a prison (p87).
bridge, the Pont Neuf
links the Right and
Left banks to the Ile
de la Cité (p90).

St-Gervais–St-Protais
One of the oldest organs in
Paris, dating from the early
17th century, is in this
church (p103).



Pont Neuf
Jardin Tino Rossi
Pont Neuf Created in 1975,
this is an open-air
Châtelet
Hôtel de Ville sculpture garden
Pont au dedicated to the
Change Corsican singer.
Pont
Notre-Dame
Cité
Pont
d’Arcole
Pont
St-Michel Louis-Philippe
Petit Pont Pont au Pont Marie
Double Pont St-Louis Pont Marie


Pont de
l’Archevêché
Pont de la Sully Morland
Tournelle Pont de Sully




Notre-Dame
This towering cathedral surveys
the river (pp82–5). Bâteaux Parisiens




072-073_EW_Paris.indd 73 25/04/16 4:17 pm

74  INTRODUCING P ARIS

How to Take a River or Canal Trip

River Seine cruises on a variety of pleasure allowing passengers to get on and off
boats operate along the main sightseeing anywhere along the route. City canal trips
reaches of the river, taking in many of the operate along the old industrial St-Martin
city’s famous monuments. The Batobus river canal in the east of the city, passing through
service operates as a shuttle or bus service, areas of Paris steeped in history.
Types of Boats
Bateaux mouches, the
largest of the pleasure-
cruise boats, are a
spectacular sight with
their passenger areas
enclosed in glass for
excellent all round
viewing. At night,
floodlights are used
to pick out river bank
buildings. A more
luxurious version of these
is used on the Bateaux
Parisien cruises. The
vedettes are smaller
and more intimate
boats, with viewing
through glass walls.
The Canauxrama canal
boats are flat-bottomed.



Pleasure-cruise boat on the River Seine

Seine Cruises and Shuttle Services
The Seine cruises and shuttle services information below includes the boarding
points, the nearest Metro and RER stations, and the nearest bus routes. Meal
cruises must be booked in advance, and passengers must board them 30 min-
utes before departure. Timings may vary – visitors are advised to check ahead.

Sep: 10:30am–11pm (to Bateaux Parisiens
11:30pm Sat, Sun, daily Jul & Tour Eiffel Cruise Bateaux Parisiens
Aug); Nov–mid-Feb: 11:15am– Sightseeing and meal Notre-Dame Cruise
9pm (later some Sats, Suns cruises with commen- Same route as the Tour
& Christmas hols). Every tary in 13 languages. Eiffel Cruise, but in the
Vedettes de Paris 30–45 mins. Duration 1 hr. The boarding point is: opposite direction.
Seine Cruise ∑ vedettesdeparis.com The boarding point is:
These superb cruises Port de la Bourdonnais
depart from the Eiffel Croisière Dégustation Map 10 D2. Tel 08 25 01 01 Quai de Montebello
Tower. Some include a Champagne 01. q Bir Hakeim. W Map 13 B4. Tel 08 25 01 01
snack or cham pagne. A sommelier leads a Champs de Mars. @ 42, 01. q Maubert–Mutualité,
The boarding point is: Champagne tasting. 82. Departures every 30 St-Michel. W St-Michel. @
mins Apr–Sep, hourly Oct–
The boarding point is: Mar. Apr–Jun & Sep: 10am– 24, 27, 47. Departures mid-
Port de Suffren 10:30pm; Jul–Aug: 10am– Sep–mid-Apr: 2:20–6:20pm
daily (evening cruises
Map 10 D3. Tel 01 44 Port de Suffren 11pm; Oct–Mar: 10:30am– Easter weekend); mid-Apr–
18 19 50. q Bir Hakeim. Map 10 D3. Tel 01 44 18 19 10pm. Duration 1 hr. Jun & late Aug–mid-Sep:
W Champs de Mars. @ 50. q Bir Hakeim. Depar­ Lunch cruise 12:45pm. 2:20– 10pm Mon–Thu, 2:20–
22, 30, 32, 44, 63, 69, 72, 82, tures May–Aug: 6pm Mon– Duration 2 hr. Dinner 10:45pm Fri, 11am–10:45pm
87. Departures mid-Feb– Sat; Sep–Apr: 6pm Thu–Sat. cruise 6:15pm, 8:30pm, Sat, 11am–10pm Sun; Jul–
Easter, Oct: 10:30am–10pm Duration 1 hr. 9pm. Duration 2.5 hr. late Aug: 11am–10:45pm
(to 11pm Sat); Apr–Jun & ∑ vedettesdeparis.com ∑ bateauxparisiens.com daily. Duration 1 hr.



074-075_EW_Paris.indd 74 03/04/17 10:55 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 17th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

A RIVER VIE W OF P ARIS  75


Boarding Points
The boarding points for the river cruises and Canal Trips
the Batobus services are easy to find along the The Canauxrama company operates boat cruises
river. Here, you can along the city’s Canal St-Martin and along the
buy tickets, and there banks of the river Marne. The St-Martin journey
are amenities such passes along the tree-lined canal, which has nine
as snack bars. Major locks, two swing bridges and eight romantic
cruise companies footbridges. The Bords de Marne cruise travels
also have foreign well into the suburbs, as far as Bry-sur-Marne.
The Paris Canal Company (01 42 40 96 97;
exchange booths. www.pariscanal.com) also has a St-Martin canal trip,
There is limited from Parc de la Villette and extending beyond the
parking around the canal, passing into the River Seine and as far as
points, but none the Musée d’Orsay.
near the Pont Neuf.
River boarding point

Batobus Cruises
Shuttle service. 1- and 2-day passes available. Tel 08 25 Canal St-Martin
05 01 01. Departures daily every 20–45 mins, depending The Canauxrama company offers many different
on time of year; check website. Board at: Beaugrenelle: trips along this canal, including a regular service
Map 9 B5. q Charles Michel. Eiffel Tower: Map 10 D3. between the Bassin de la Villette and the Port de
q Bir Hakeim. Champs-Elysées: Map 11 B1. q Champs- l’Arsenal. The boarding points are:
Elysées-Clemenceau. Musée d’Orsay: Map 12 D2. q Bassin de la Villette: Map 8 E1. q Jaurès. Port de
Assemblée Nationale. Louvre: Map 12 E2. q Louvre. l’Arsenal: Map 14 E4. q Bastille. Tel 01 42 39 15 00.
St-Germain-des-Prés: Map 12 E3. q St-Germain-des- Departures Apr–Nov, times may vary so phone or visit
Prés. Notre-Dame: Map 13 B4. q Saint-Michel. Hôtel de the website to check and to make a reservation: Bassin
Ville: Map 13 B4. q Hôtel de Ville. Jardin des Plantes: de la Villette 9:45am and 2:45pm; Port de l’Arsenal
Map 18 D1. q Gare d’Austerlitz. ∑ batobus.com 9:45am and 2:30pm daily, plus high-season 6pm
departures Fri and Sat. On weekday mornings, there are
concessions for students, pensioners and children under
12. Children under four travel free (although the trip is
not recommended for this age). Concert cruises are
available on chartered trips on the Canal St-Martin and
the Seine. Duration 2 hr 30 min. ∑ canauxrama.fr
Bateaux Mouches Bateaux Vedettes Bords de Marne Croisière
Seine Cruise Pont Neuf Cruise This all-day cruise extends west out of Paris down
One of Paris’s best known This company runs a the Marne. The trip includes a commentary, stories
pleasure boat companies, fleet of six small boats. and dancing. Bring a picnic or lunch in a guinguette
with a fleet of 14 boats. The boats are of an older (open-air café). The boarding point is: Port de
The boarding point is: style, for a quainter l’Arsenal: Map 14 E4. q Bastille. Tel 01 42 39 15 00.
cruise. Price reductions Departures Apr–Oct: 9am twice weekly (reservations
Pont de l’Alma if booking online. only), Jul–Aug: Thu–Sun (arrive 20 min before). Booking
Map 10 F1. Tel 01 42 25 The boarding point is: recommended. Duration 8 hr. ∑ canauxrama.fr
96 10. q Alma-Marceau.
W Pont de l’Alma. @ 28, Square du Vert-Galant
42, 49, 63, 72, 80, 83, 92. (Pont Neuf)
Departure Apr–Sep: Map 12 F3. Tel 01 46 33 98 38.
10:15am–10:30pm daily q Pont Neuf. W Châtelet.
(every 20–45 min); Oct–Mar: @ 27, 58, 67, 70, 72, 74, 75.
11am–9:20pm (from Departures mid-Mar–Oct:
10:15am Sat & Sun; every 10:30am, 11:15am, noon,
30 min–1 hr; 50 passengers 12:45pm, 1:30–10:30pm
min). Duration 1 hr 10 min. (every 30 min) daily; Nov–
Lunch cruise 1pm Sat, Sun mid-Mar: 10:30am, 11:15am,
& bank hols (embark from noon, 2–6:30pm (every 45
12:15pm). Duration 1hr 45 min), 8pm, 9:30pm Mon–Thu;
min. Under-12s half price. 10:30am, 11:15am, noon,
Dinner cruise 6pm, 8:30pm 2–6:30pm, 8pm, 9pm, 10pm
(embark from 7:30pm) daily. (every 45 min) Fri–Sun (24 &
Duration 2 hr 15 min. 31 Dec: last departure
Formal dress required. 5:45pm). Duration 1 hr. ∑ Canal cruise boat in the Bassin de la Villette
∑ bateaux-mouches.fr vedettesdupontneuf.com
Cityscape of Paris, dominated by the Eiffel Tower



074-075_EW_Paris.indd 75 03/04/17 10:55 am

076-077_EW_Paris.indd 76 25/04/16 5:02 pm

PARIS


AREA BY AREA





Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis 78–91

The Marais 92–105
Beaubourg and Les Halles 106–117
Tuileries Quarter 118–135
St-Germain-des-Prés 136–149
Latin Quarter 150–161
Jardin des Plantes Quarter 162–169
Luxembourg Quarter 170–175
Montparnasse 176–183
Invalides and
Eiffel Tower Quarter 184–197
Chaillot Quarter 198–205
Champs-Elysées 206–213
Opéra Quarter 214–221
Montmartre 222–231

Further Afield 232–259
Eight Guided Walks 260–277






















076-077_EW_Paris.indd 77 25/04/16 5:02 pm

Square du Neuf
Vert-Galant
S e i n e
Pont Q U A I D E L ' H O R L O G E Pont au Change
R DE HARLAY Pont Notre- Dame
BLVD D U PALAIS R DE LUTECE CI T E Pont d'Arcole
Cité
Q U A I D E S O R F E V R E S
Pont St- Michel MARCHE NEUF RU E D E L A Q U A I A U X F L E U R S Pont L.
Q U A I D E L A C O R S E
QUAI DU
Petit Pont RUE D'ARCOLE Philippe
Pont au Double RUE DU CLOITRE N.D. St-Louis QUAI DE BOURBON Pont Marie
Pont
Notre-
Dame Q U AI D ' O R L E AN S
R U E S T
Port de Pont de l'Archevêché R DES DEUX PONTS
Montebello L O U I S E N I ' I L E
Pont de La Tournelle S e i n e Pont de
Q U A I D ' A N JOU
QU A I D E B ET HU N E
Pont de SQUARE Sully
BARYE
Sully





078-079_EW_Paris.indd 78 03/04/17 10:55 am

P ARIS AREA B Y AREA  79

ILE DE LA CITE AND
ILE ST-LOUIS

The history of Paris started on the Ile de la There are also charming snippets of another
Cité, an island formed by two meanders time amid the tiny stone houses and narrow
of the Seine. Inhabited by the Parisii Gauls streets in the Ancien Cloître Quartier, and
from the 3rd century BC and taken over in around the picturesque Square du Vert-
52 BC by Caesar’s Romans, the Ile de la Cité Galant and the venerable Place Dauphine.
was the birthplace of river commerce and However, most of the island’s historic heritage
a centre of political and religious power. has been wiped away by the modernization
Some imposing evidence of this power of the last few centuries.
can still be seen in the Conciergerie, a Crossing the St-Louis bridge onto the
medieval palace turned prison; in Sainte- smaller Ile St-Louis, you enter a charming
Chapelle, a small church with sparkling 17th-century oasis with tree-lined quays,
stained-glass windows; and in Notre-Dame, elegant mansions and the legendary Maison
the island’s world-famous Gothic cathedral. Berthillon ice-cream shop (see p311).
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Monuments Museums and Galleries
2 Ancien Cloître Quartier 4 Paris Mémorial des Martyrs 5 Crypte Archéologique
6 Hôtel Dieu de la Déportation r Société Historique et
8 Conciergerie Markets Littéraire Polonaise
0 Palais de Justice 7 Marché aux Fleurs Reine Bridges
y Hôtel de Lauzun
Elizabeth II w Pont Neuf
Churches and Cathedrals Squares and Gardens
1 Notre -Dame pp82 –5 3 Square Jean XXIII
9 Sainte-Chapelle pp88 –9 q Place Dauphine Restaurants see p296
t St-Louis-en-l’Ile
e Square du Vert-Galant 1 Au Bougnat
2 Café St-Régis



Square du Neuf
Vert-Galant
S e i n e
Pont Q U A I D E L ' H O R L O G E Pont au Change
R DE HARLAY Pont Notre- Dame
BLVD D U PALAIS R DE LUTECE C ITE Pont d'Arcole
Cité
Q U A I D E S O R F E V R E S
Pont St- Michel MARCHE NEUF R UE DE LA Q U A I A U X F L E U R S Pont L.
Q U A I D E L A C O R S E
QUAI DU
Petit Pont RUE D'ARCOLE Philippe
Pont au Double RUE DU CLOITRE N.D. St-Louis QUAI DE BOURBON Pont Marie
Pont
Notre-
Dame Q U AI D ' O R L E AN S
R U E S T
Port de Pont de l'Archevêché R DES DEUX PONTS
Montebello L O U I S E N I ' I L E
Pont de La Tournelle S e i n e Pont de
Q U A I D ' A N JOU
Q UA I D E BE TH U NE
Pont de SQUARE Sully
BARYE
0 metres 400 Sully
0 yards 400
See also Street Finder
map 12–13
Statues of apostles that look over the main entrance to Notre-Dame For keys to symbols see back flap

078-079_EW_Paris.indd 79 03/04/17 10:55 am

80  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Ile de la Cité

The origins of Paris are here on the Ile de la Cité, the
boat-shaped island on the Seine first inhabited over
2,000 years ago by Celtic tribes. One tribe, the Parisii,
eventually gave its name to the city. The island
offered a convenient river crossing on the route
between northern and southern Gaul and was
easily defended. In later centuries, the settlement
was expanded by the Romans, the Franks and the
Capetian kings to form the nucleus of today’s city. The Cour du Mai 7 . Marché aux
Fleurs Reine
There is no older place in Paris, and remains of is the impressive Elizabeth II
the first buildings can still be seen today in the main courtyard of the This colourful, lively
archaeological crypt under the square in front of Palais de Justice. market is one of Paris’s
few remaining flower
Notre-Dame, the great medieval cathedral and markets. Birds are
place of pilgrimage for millions of visitors each sold at the Sunday
year. At the other end of the island is another market.
Gothic masterpiece, Sainte-Chapelle – P O N T A U C H A N G E
a miracle of light.
P O N T N O T R E - D A M E
Q U A I D E
L A C O R S E
To Pont
Neuf

B LV D D U PA L A I S R U E D E L U T E C E




8 . Conciergerie Q U A I D E S O R F E V R E S
A grisly antechamber
to the guillotine, this
prison was much used
in the Revolution. P O N T S T-
The Quai des Orfèvres 0 Palais de Justice M I C H E L R U E D E L A C I T E
owes its name to the With its ancient towers
goldsmiths (orfèvres) lining the quays, the old D U PA R V I S
P L A C E
who frequented the royal palace is today a N O T R E - D A M E
area from medieval massive complex of law Q U A I D U M A R C H E N E U F
times onwards. courts. Its history extends
back over 16 centuries. The Préfecture
de Police is the
headquarters of the
police and was the P E T I T P O N T
scene of intense battles
during World War II.
P O N T A U D O U B L E


5 . Crypte
Archéologique
9 . Sainte-Chapelle Deep under the
A jewel of Gothic architecture and one of the most magical square lie the remains
sights in Paris, Sainte-Chapelle is noted for the magnificence of houses from 2,000
of its stained glass. years ago.




080-081_EW_Paris.indd 80 03/04/17 10:49 am

ILE DE LA CIT E AND ILE ST-L OUIS  81


The Statue of Charlemagne commemorates TUILERIES
QUARTER
the King of the Franks, who was crowned BEAUBOURG AND
LES HALLES
emperor in 800. He united all the Christian S e i n e THE
peoples of the West. MARAIS
ILE DE
LA CITE
ST-GERMAIN-
DES-PRES ILE ST-
LOUIS
0 metres 100 LATIN
QUARTER
JARDIN DES
0 yards 100 PLANTES QUARTER
Key Locator Map
See Central Paris Map pp16–17
Suggested route
The Rue Chanoinesse
has many charming old
restaurants, cafés and shops.
6 Hôtel Dieu
Once an orphanage, this
is now a city hospital.
P O N T N O T R E - D A M E Point Zéro is the point
from which all distances
are measured in France.
Q U A I D E
L A C O R S E
2 Ancien Cloître Quartier
These quaint streets were once home to

P O N T D ’ A R C O L E medieval clergymen and students.


R U E D ’ A R C O L E


R U E D E L A C I T E N O T R E - D A M E R U E C H A N O I N E S S E




P L A C E
D U PA R V I S


1 . Notre-Dame
This cathedral is a superb
example of French
medieval architecture.

P O N T A U D O U B L E
R U E D U C L O I T R E N O T R E - D A M E


To Latin Quarter S Q D U J E A N X X I I I 3 The Square Jean XXIII
is a peaceful square close
to the river.






080-081_EW_Paris.indd 81 03/04/17 10:49 am

82  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

1 Notre-Dame

No other building is more associated with the history of
Paris than Notre-Dame. It stands majestically on the Ile de
la Cité, cradle of the city. Pope Alexander III laid the first
stone in 1163, marking the start of 170 years of toil by armies
of Gothic architects and medieval craftsmen. Ever since, a
procession of the famous has passed through the three
main doors below the massive towers.
The cathedral is a Gothic masterpiece, standing on the site
of a Roman temple. At the time it was finished, in about 1334,
it was 130 m (430 ft) long and featured flying buttresses, a
large transept, a deep choir and 69-m (228-ft) high towers.
. West Front
Three main doors with
superb statuary, a central
rose window and an
openwork gallery are
important details here.












. Galerie des Chimères
The cathedral’s legendary gargoyles
(chimères) hide behind a large upper
gallery between the towers.




KEY
1 Portal of the Virgin The
Virgin surrounded by saints and
kings is a fine composition of
13th-century statues.
2 The south tower houses the
cathedral’s famous Emmanuel bell.
3 The spire, designed by Viollet-
le-Duc, soars to a height of 90 m
(295 ft).
4 The treasury houses the
cathedral’s religious treasures,
including Christ’s purported
Crown of Thorns.
5 The transept was built at the
start of Philippe-Auguste’s reign,
in the 13th century.
6 The King’s Gallery features . West Rose Window
28 Kings of Judah gazing down This window depicts the
on the crowds. Virgin in a medallion of
rich reds and blues.




082-083_EW_Paris.indd 82 03/04/17 10:55 am

ILE DE LA CITE AND ILE ST L OUIS  83


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
6 Pl du Parvis Notre-Dame.
Map 13 B4. Tel 01 42 34 56 10.
Open 8am–6:30pm daily (to
7:15pm Sat & Sun). 5 8am,
9am, noon, 6:15pm (6:30pm
Sat) Mon–Sat; 8:30am, 10am,
11:30am, 12:45pm, 6:30pm Sun.
8 2pm Wed & Thu; 2:30pm
Sat (English). = Towers: Rue du
Clôitre. Tel 01 53 40 60 80. Open
. Flying Buttresses 10am–6:30pm (Oct–Mar: to
Jean Ravy’s spectacular flying buttresses at the east end 5:30pm; Jul & Aug: to 11pm Fri &
of the cathedral have a span of 15 m (50 ft). Sat). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May & 25
Dec. & ∑ notre-dame-de-
paris.monuments-nationaux.fr
Transport
q Cité. @ 21, 38, 47, 85, 96.
x Notre-Dame. h Pl du Parvis.














. South Rose Window
This south façade window,
with its central
depiction of
Christ, is an
impressive
13m (43 ft)
high.










1793 Revolutionaries loot the cathedral
1163 Foundation 1572 Marguerite de and rename it Temple of Reason
stone laid by Pope Valois marries Henri of
Alexander III Navarre (later Henri IV) 1944 Liberation of Paris
Thanksgiving ceremony
1150 1550 1750 1900 2015
1708 Choir remodelled by Louis 1795–1802 2013 The cathedral celebrates
XIV, fulfilling his father’s promise Cathedral closed its 850th anniversary
to honour the Virgin
1970 State funeral
1804 Napoleon crowns himself of General de Gaulle
Emperor of France Napoleon I




082-083_EW_Paris.indd 83 03/04/17 10:55 am

84  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

A Guided Tour of Notre-Dame

Notre-Dame’s interior grandeur is instantly apparent on
seeing the high-vaulted central nave. This is bisected by a
huge transept, at either end of which are medieval rose
windows, 13 m (43 ft) in diameter. Works by major sculptors
adorn the cathedral. Among them are Jean Ravy’s old choir
screen carvings, Nicolas Coustou’s Pietà and Antoine
Coysevox’s Louis XIV statue. In this majestic setting, kings
and emperors were crowned and royal Crusaders were
blessed. But Notre-Dame was also the scene of turmoil.
Revolutionaries ransacked it, banished religion, changed
it into a temple to the Cult of Reason, and then used it
as a wine store. Napoleon restored religion in 1804 and 9 North Rose Window
architect Viollet-le-Duc later restored the buildings, This 13th-century stained-glass
replacing missing statues, as well as raising the spire window depicts the Virgin
encircled by figures from
and fixing the gargoyles. the Old Testament.


0 View and Gargoyles
The 387 steps up the north
tower lead to sights of the
famous gargoyles and
magnificent views of Paris.








Entrance to
the tower



Entrance












1 View of Interior
From the main entrance, the view takes 2 Le Brun’s “May”
in the high-vaulted central nave looking Paintings
down towards the huge transept, the These religious paintings
choir and the high altar. by Charles Le Brun hang
in the side chapels. In the
17th and 18th centuries,
Key the Paris guilds
presented a painting to
Suggested route
the cathedral on May
Day each year.


084-085_EW_Paris.indd 84 03/04/17 10:55 am

ILE DE LA CITE AND ILE ST-L OUIS  85


7 Louis XIII Statue
After many years of childless marriage,
8 Carved Choir Stalls Louis XIII pledged to erect a high
Noted for their early altar and to redecorate the east
18th-century carved chancel to honour the Virgin if an
woodwork, the choir stalls heir was born to him. The future
were commis sioned by Louis XIV was born in 1638, but
Louis XIII, whose statue it took 60 years before the
stands behind the high pledges were fulfilled. One of
altar. Among the details the surviving features from
carved in bas-relief on that time is the carved
the back of the high choir stalls.
stalls are scenes from
the life of the Virgin.

















6 Pietà
Behind the high altar is Nicolas Coustou’s
Pietà, standing on a gilded base sculpted
Entrance to by François Girardon.
Treasury





Entrance to
Sacristy


5 Chancel Screen
A 14th-century high stone screen enclosed
the chancel and provided canons at prayer
with peace and solitude from noisy
congregations. Some of it has survived to
screen the first three north and south bays.






3 South Rose Window 4 Statue of the Virgin and Child
Located at the south end of the Against the southeast pillar of the
transept, this window retains some transept stands the 14th-century statue
of its original 13th-century stained of the Virgin and Child. It was brought to
glass. The window depicts Christ in the cathedral from the chapel of
the centre, surrounded by virgins, St Aignan, and is known as Notre-
saints and the 12 Apostles. Dame de Paris (Our Lady of Paris).




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86  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA


























The Square Jean XXIII behind Notre-Dame
2 Ancien Cloître ransacked by rioters in 1831 and with the names of the camps to
Quartier later demolished. A square was which they were deported. Earth
conceived as a replacement by from these camps has been used
Rue du Cloître-Notre-Dame north to the Prefect of Paris, Rambuteau. to form tombs and the interior
Quai aux Fleurs 75004. Map 13 B4. The Gothic-style fountain of the walls are decorated with poetry.
q Cité. W St-Michel. Virgin in the square dates to 1845. At the far end is the tomb dedi -
cated to the Unknown Deportee.
To the north of Notre-Dame 4 Paris Mémorial
cathedral lies a warren of little- des Martyrs de la 5 Crypte
explored streets known as the
“Old Cloister” quarter. They are all Déportation Archéologique
that remains of a once-bustling Sq de l’Ile de France 75004. Map 13 B4. 7 Pl du Parvis Notre-Dame 75004.
medieval hub frequented by Tel 01 46 33 87 56. q St-Paul, Map 13 A4. Tel 01 55 42 50 10.
cathedral seminary students. Maubert-Mutualité. W St-Michel. q Cité. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
Today, the narrow streets with Open 10am–noon, 2–5pm Tue–Sun (last adm: 30 min before closing).
well-preserved medieval (until 7pm Apr–Sep). Closed 1 Jan, Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 8 May, 14 Jul,
mansions make for an interesting 1 May, 14 Jul, 15 Aug & 25 Dec. 15 Aug, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec & religious
stroll. The mansions in Rue des hols. & free for under 18s. 9 =
Chantres and Rue des Ursins in The memorial to the 200,000 ∑ crypte.paris.fr
particular have pretty gardens French men, women and chil dren
and cobbled courtyards. deported to Nazi con cen tration Situated on the main square
camps in World War II is covered (the parvis) in front of
3 Square Jean XXIII
Rue du Cloître-Notre-Dame 75004.
Map 13 B4. q Cité.
Notre-Dame’s St Stephen’s
door (porte St-Etienne) faces
this pleasant garden square,
dedicated to Pope John XXIII.
The garden runs alongside the
river and is an excellent place
for enjoying the sculptures, rose
windows and flying buttresses
of the east end of the cathedral.
From the 17th century, the
square was occupied by the
archbishop’s palace, which was Gallo-Roman ruins in the Crypte Archéologique




086-087_EW_Paris.indd 86 03/04/17 10:55 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.9)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

ILE DE LA CITE AND ILE ST-L OUIS  87


Notre-Dame and stretching
120 m (393 ft) underground, this
crypt exhibits the remains of
founda tions and walls that pre-
date the cathedral by several
hun dred years. The foundations
of Paris’s oldest rampart, dating
from the third century BC, are
displayed, as are the medieval
foundations of the Hôtel Dieu.
Within the crypt are also traces
of a sophisticated underground
heating system used for Ancient
Roman thermal baths. Huge variety of colourful flowers for sale at the Marché aux Fleurs Reine Elizabeth II
7 Marché aux “concierge”, the keeper of the
Fleurs Reine king’s mansion. When the king
moved to the Marais (in 1417),
Elizabeth II the palace remained the seat of
royal admini stration and law;
Pl Louis-Lépine 75004. Map 13 A3.
q Cité. Open 8am–7pm Mon–Sat; and the Conciergerie became
Marché aux Oiseaux: Sun. a prison, with the “concierge”
as its chief gaoler. Henry IV’s
The year-round flower market assassin, Ravaillac, was
adds colour and scent to an imprisoned and tortured here.
area otherwise dominated During the Revolution, it
by admin istrative buildings. housed over 4,000 prisoners,
It is the most famous and, including Marie-Antoinette,
unfortunately, one of the last who was held in a tiny cell. and
remaining flower markets in Charlotte Corday, who stabbed
the city of Paris, offering a wide Revolutionary leader Marat as
range of specialist varieties he lay in his bath. Ironically, the
such as orchids. Each Sunday, Revolutionary judges Danton
it makes way for an animal and Robespierre also became
market, which is best avoided “tenants” before being sent to
by sensitive animal lovers. the guillotine.
Arched entrance of Hôtel Dieu, Paris’s The Conciergerie has a superb
central hospital four-aisled Gothic Salle des
8 Conciergerie Gens d’Armes (Hall of the Men-
6 Hôtel Dieu at-Arms), the dining hall for
2 Blvd du Palais 75001. Map 13 A3.
1 Pl du Parvis Notre-Dame 75004. Tel 01 53 40 60 80. q Cité. Open the castle’s 2,000 members of
Map 13 A4. Tel 01 42 34 82 34. 9:30am–6pm daily (last adm: 30 min staff. The building, renovated
Closed to the public for visits. before closing). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, in the 19th century, retains
q Cité. 25 Dec. & (combined ticket with the 14th-century public clock
Sainte-Chapelle, pp88–9, available.) 8 tower on the Tour de l’Horloge
On the north side of the Place phone to check. = ∑ conciergerie. (Palais de Justice). It is the city’s
du Parvis Notre-Dame is the monuments-nationaux.fr oldest and is still operating.
Hôtel Dieu, the city’s oldest The Conciergerie forms part of
hospital serving central Paris. The Conciergerie was under the the larger Palais du Justice, which
It was built on the site of an administration of the palace is still used by the judicial system.
orphanage between 1866
and 1878. The original Hôtel
Dieu, built in the 12th century
and stretch ing across the
island to both banks of the
river, was demolished in the
19th century to make way for
one of Baron Haussmann’s
urban-planning schemes. It
was here in 1944 that the Paris
police courageously resisted
the Germans; the battle is
com memorated by a monu-
ment on Cour de 19-Août. The Gothic Salle des Gens d’Armes (Hall of the Men-at-Arms) in the Conciergerie




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88  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

9 Sainte-Chapelle

Ethereal and magical, Sainte-Chapelle has been
hailed as one of the greatest architectural master-
pieces of the Western world. In the Middle Ages, the
devout likened this church to “a gateway to heaven”.
Today, no visitor can fail to be transported by the
blaze of light created by the 15 magnificent stained-
glass windows, separated by the narrowest of
columns that soar 15 m (50 ft) to the star-studded,
vaulted roof. The windows portray over 1,000
religious scenes in a kaleidoscope of red, gold, green,
blue and mauve. The chapel was built in 1248 by . Rose Window
Louis IX to house Christ’s purported Crown of Thorns Best seen at sunset, the religious
(now housed in the Notre-Dame treasury). story of the Apocalypse is told in 86
panels of stained glass. The window
was a gift from Charles VIII in 1485.













Lower Chapel Servants and commoners
worshipped here, while the chapel above
was reserved for the use of the king and the
royal family.





Main Portal
The two-tier
structure of
the portal,
the lower half
of which is
shown here,
echoes that
of the chapel.

KEY
1 The Crown of Thorns decorates
the pinnacle as a symbol of the first
relic bought by Louis IX.
2 The spire rises 75 m (245 ft) into
the air. It was erected in 1853 after
four previous spires burned down.
3 The angel once revolved so
that its cross could be seen from
anywhere in Paris.





088-089_EW_Paris.indd 88 03/04/17 10:55 am

ILE DE LA CITE AND ILE ST-L OUIS  89


St Louis’ Relics VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Louis IX was extremely devout, Practical Information
and was canonized in 1297, not 8 Blvd du Palais 75001. Map
long after his death. In 1239, he 13 A3. Tel 01 53 40 60 80. Open
acquired the Crown of Thorns from daily. Mar–Oct: 9:30am–6pm (Jul
the Emperor of Constantinople & Aug: to 9pm Wed); Nov–Feb:
and, in 1241, a fragment of Christ’s 9am–5pm (closed at lunchtime
Cross. He built this chapel as Mon–Fri). Last adm 30 min before
a shrine to house them. Louis closing. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25
paid nearly three times more Dec. & (com bined ticket with
for the relics than for the con­ Conciergerie, p87, is available).
struction of Sainte­Chapelle. 8 = ∑ sainte-chapelle.
The Crown of Thorns is now monuments-nationaux.fr
kept at Notre­Dame.
Transport
q Cité. @ 21, 27, 38, 85, 96 to
Ile de la Cité. W St­Michel. x
Notre­Dame. h Palais de Justice.



Upper Chapel Windows







1 Genesis 9 left St John the
Baptist right
2 Exodus Story of Daniel
3 Numbers 10 Ezekiel
4 Deuteronomy, 11 left Jeremiah
Joshua right Tobiah
Upper Chapel The windows 5 Judges
are a pictorial Bible, showing 12 Judith and Job
scenes from the Old and 6 left Isaiah right 13 Esther
Rod of Jesse
New Testaments. 14 Book of Kings
7 left St John the
Evangelist right 15 Story of the Relics
Childhood of Christ
16 Rose Window: The
8 Christ’s Passion Apocalypse














. Apostle Statues
These magnificent examples
of medieval stone carving . Window of Christ’s Passion
adorn the 12 pillars of the The Last Supper is shown here in one of the
upper chapel. most beautiful windows in the upper chapel.




088-089_EW_Paris.indd 89 03/04/17 10:55 am

90  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA


No. 14 is one of the few
buildings to have avoided any
subsequent restoration. This
haven of 17th-century charm is
popular with pétanque (boules)
players and employees of the
adjoining Palais de Justice.

w Pont Neuf
Quai de la Mégisserie and Quai des
Grands Augustins 75001. Map 12 F3.
q Pont Neuf, Cité.
Despite its name (New Bridge),
this is the oldest of the
A sculpted relief on the Palais de Justice existing bridges in Paris and
has been immortalized by
0 Palais de Justice the Première Chambre, but this major literary and artistic
court eventually degenerated figures since it was built. The
4–10 Blvd du Palais (entrance by the into Robespierre’s Reign of first stone was laid by Henri III
Cour de Mai, 10 Blvd du Palais) 75001.
Map 13 A3. Tel 01 44 32 52 52. Terror. Here visitors can see in 1578, but it was Henri IV
q Cité. Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri. Napoleon’s great legacy – who inaugurated it and gave
^ ∑ ca-paris.justice.fr the French judicial system – it its name in 1607. His statue
at work in the 21st century. stands in the central section.
The monumental block of The bridge, which was the
buildings making up the law widest of its kind in Paris, has
courts stretches the entire q Place Dauphine 12 arches and spans 275 m
width of the Ile de la Cité. It is 75001 (enter by Rue Henri-Robert). (912 ft). The first stone bridge
a splendid sight with its old Map 12 F3. q Pont Neuf, Cité. to be built without houses
towers lining the quays. The and with pavements for
site has been occupied since East of Pont Neuf is this ancient pedestrians, it heralded a
Roman times and was the seat square, laid out in 1607 by new era in the relationship
of royal power until Charles V Henri IV and named after the between the Cité and the river.
moved the court to the Hôtel Dauphin, the future Louis XIII. From its very beginning,
St-Paul in the Marais during It is actually triangular in shape the Pont Neuf has had heavy
the 14th century. In April 1793, and lined with cafés, wine bars traffic. It has undergone many
the Revolutionary Tribunal and restaurants. In the middle is renovations and repairs over
began dispensing justice from a park with trees and benches. the centuries.

























The Pont Neuf, extending to the north and south of the Ile de la Cité




090-091_EW_Paris.indd 90 03/04/17 10:55 am

ILE DE LA CITE AND ILE ST L OUIS  91


Boleslas Biegas. The Society’s
library, founded in 1838,
preserves documents and
mementos relating to Polish
history and culture, develops
historical and literary studies,
and organizes cultural events.

t St-Louis-en-l’Ile
19 Rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile 75004.
Map 13 C4. Tel 01 46 34 11 60.
q Pont Marie. Open 9:30am–1pm,
2–7:30pm daily (to 7pm Sun & public
hols). Mass: 6:45pm Mon–Fri, 6:30pm
Sat, 11am Sun.
The interior of St-Louis-en-l’Ile
The construction of this church
Henri IV in Square du Vert-Galant began in 1664 from plans by y Hôtel de Lauzun
the royal architect Louis Le Vau, 17 Quai d’Anjou 75004. Map 13 C4.
e Square du Vert- who lived on the island. It was Tel 01 42 76 54 04. q Pont Marie.
completed and conse crated in
Galant 1726. Among its outstanding Closed to the public. ∑ paris.fr
exterior features are the 1741 This splendid mansion, also
Ile de la Cité 75001. Map 12 F3.
q Pont Neuf, Cité. iron clock at the entrance and known as Hôtel Pimodan, was
the pierced iron spire. built by Louis Le Vau in the
One of the magical spots of Paris, The interior, in the Baroque mid-1650s for Charles Gruyn
this square bears the nickname style, is richly decorated with des Bordes, an arms dealer.
of Henri IV. This amorous and gilding and marble. There is a It was sold in 1682 to the
colourful monarch did much to statue of St Louis holding a French military commander
beautify Paris in the early 17th crusader’s sword. A plaque in the Duc de Lauzun, who was a
century, and his popularity has north aisle bears the inscription favourite of Louis XIV. It later
lasted to this day. From here, “in grate ful memory of St Louis became a focus for Paris’s
there are splendid views of the in whose honour the City of St Bohemian literary and artistic
Louvre and the Right Bank of Louis, Missouri, USA is named”. life. It now belongs to the city
the river, where Henri was The church is also twinned with of Paris, and an establishment
assassinated in 1610. This is Carthage cathedral in Tunisia, dedicated to scientific research
also the point from which the where St Louis is buried. is housed here. For those lucky
Vedettes du Pont Neuf pleasure enough to see inside, it offers
boats depart (see pp74–5). an unsurpassed insight into
wealthy lifestyles in the
17th century. Charles Le Brun
r Société worked on the decoration
Historique et of its magnificent panelling
and painted ceilings before
Littéraire Polonaise moving on to Versailles.
6 Quai d’Orléans 75004. Map 13 C4. The poet Charles Baudelaire
Tel 01 55 42 83 83. q Pont Marie. (1821–67) lived on the third
Open 2:15–6pm Tue–Fri. & 8 floor and wrote most of his
call 01 55 42 83 85 to book. controversial masterpiece Les
∑ bibliotheque-polonaise- Fleurs du Mal in a room packed
paris-shlp.fr with antiques and bric-a-brac.
The celebrated French Romantic
The Polish Romantic poet Adam poet, traveller and critic,
Mickiewicz, who lived in Paris in Théophile Gautier (1811–72),
the 19th century, was a major had apartments here in 1848.
force in Polish cultural and Meetings of the Club des
political life, devoting his writing Haschischines (the Hashish-
to helping his countrymen who Eaters’ Club) took place here too.
were oppressed at home and Other famous residents were
abroad. The museum, founded the Austrian poet Rainer Maria
in 1903, has exhibition galleries Rilke, the English artist Walter
dedicated to not only Mickewicz Sickert and the German
but also Frédéric Chopin and A bust of Adam Mickiewicz composer Richard Wagner.




090-091_EW_Paris.indd 91 03/04/17 10:55 am

Parisians relaxing in the Place des Vosges in the Marais
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Opera Houses Restaurants see pp296–8
2 Hôtel de Lamoignon w Opéra National de Paris Bastille 1 Amici Miei
3 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois Museums and Galleries 2 L’As du Fallafel
8 Rue des Rosiers 3 Bofinger
p Hôtel de Ville 1 Musée Carnavalet pp96–7 4 Les Bonnes Soeurs
4 Musée Cognacq-Jay
d Hôtel de Rohan 6 Maison de Victor Hugo 5 Café Charlot
Churches 7 Hôtel de Bethune-Sully 6 Café de l’Industrie
7 Le Chemise
t St-Paul–St-Louis 9 Hôtel de Coulanges 8 Chez Hanna
o St-Gervais–St-Protais 0 Musée Picasso Paris pp100–101 9 Claude Colliot
a Cloître des Billettes q Pavillon de l’Arsenal 10 Le Colimaçon
s Notre-Dame-des-Blancs-Manteaux y Hôtel des Archevêques Sens 11 Le Dindon en Laisse
Monuments u Maison Européenne de la 12 L’Ilot
Photographie
e Colonne de Juillet f Hôtel de Soubise 13 Le Petit Marché
i Mémorial de la Shoah 14 Les Philosophes
g Hôtel de Guénégaud (Musée 15 Qui Plume la Lune
Squares de la Chasse et de la Nature) 16 Le Trumilou
5 Place des Vosges h Musée des Arts et Métiers 17 Le Villaret
r Place de la Bastille k Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
j Square du Temple du Judaïsme


092-093_EW_Paris.indd 92 03/04/17 10:49 am

P ARIS AREA B Y AREA  93

THE MARAIS

The Marais went from royal enclave in the Picasso, Musée Carnavalet and Maison
17th and 18th centuries to a wasteland de Victor Hugo, as well as the beautiful
during the Revolution. Eventually taken over Place des Vosges, make it a must on every
by artists and shopkeepers, this area has now visitor’s list. Some of its old-world charm
climbed its way out of dilapidation, with can still be found in Rue des Rosiers, Paris’s
trendy restaurants, bars and chic boutiques, Jewish quarter, with its small cafés and
while rising property prices have driven many cobblestoned passageways. A hot spot for
locals away. Its elegant mansions, world-class eclectic art galleries, the Marais is also the
museums and art galleries such as Musée heart of the Parisian gay community.






0 metres 400
0 yards 400
R ST MARTIN
See also Street Finder Temple
maps 13–14 R U E D U V E R T B O I S République
RUE DE TURBIGO
CITE DUPETIT
Arts et
Métiers R REAUMUR RUE DU T EMP L E THOUARS RUE BERANGER R U E
RUE BEAUBOURG RUE CHAPON R U E D U T E M P L E RUE DES ARCHIVES RUE CHARLOT BOULEVARD DU TEMPLE B O U L E VA R D
180m
R AU M AIRE
RUE DE TURENNE
RUE PERREE
Oberkampf
A M E L O T
PASSAGE ST PIERRE
Filles du
BOULEVARD RICHARD LENOIR
Calvaire
AMELOT
R OBERKAMPF V O LTA I R E
PASSAGE ST SEBASTIEN
R U E C H A R LO T
R MICHEL
RUE DE BRETAGNE
LE COMTE
RUE PASTOURELLE
St-Sébastien
SQUARE
Froissart
RICHARD
RUE DES
LENOIR
AUX CHOUX
Lenoir
RUE DE
THORIGNY
RUE DES ARCHIVES
BAUDIN
T E M P L E HAUDRIETTES RUE DES 4 FILS PERLE R VIEILLE DU TEMPLE RUE DU PONT RUE PELÉE Richard
RUE ST CLAUDE
RUE ALPHONSE
ALLÉE VERTE
MARAIS
D U R DES BLANCS MANTEAUX R BARBETTE RUE DU RUE R U E BLVD RICHARD LENOIR
R ELZEVIR PARC ROYAL
RUE ST SABIN
R U E RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE R DE LA R PAYENNE RUE ST GILLES Chemin SQUARE
R DES FRANCS BOURGEOIS
BREGUET
SABIN
Vert
R DE LA TACHERIE Hôtel R DE LA VERRERIE RUE R U E D E T U R E N N E R DE BEARN DES TOURNELLES BOULEVARD BEAUMARCHAIS Bréguet
de Ville
Sabin
R DE SEVIGNE
R U E
ROI
Notre-
Pont QUAI DE GESVRES R DE LOBAU D E DU St-Paul DE RUE PAV EE RU E DES FRANCS BOURGEOIS A M E LO T
Dame
PLACE DES
VOSGES
SICILE
Pont d'Arcole R FRANCOIS MIRON R DE JOUY R I V O L I R DES TOURNELLES BLVD RICHARD LENOIR
Port de l'Hôtel R DE L’HOTEL DE VILLE Pont Marie Bastille
Pont Louis Philippe RUE DU FAUCONNIER
de Ville
RUE SAINT PAUL R U E S T AN
QUAI DE L'HOTEL DE VILLE
Pont Marie QUAI DES CELESTINS BEAUTREILLIS R CASTEX T O IN E
R DU PETIT MUSC
Bastille
RUE
Sully Morland BOULEVARD HENRI IV
Pont de
RUE CRILLON BOULE VAR D BO UR DON BOULEVARD DE LA BASTILLE
Sully
Bassin de l'Arsenal
Q U AI
H EN RI
BOULEVARD MORLA ND
IV
For keys to symbols see back flap
092-093_EW_Paris.indd 93 03/04/17 10:49 am

94  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: The Marais

Once an area of marshland as its name suggests
(marais means swamp), the Marais grew steadily in
importance from the 14th century, by virtue of its
proximity to the Louvre, the preferred residence of
Charles V. Its heyday was in the 17th century, when it
became the fashionable area for the monied classes.
They built many grand and sumptuous mansions
(hôtels) that still dot the Marais today. Many of
these hôtels have been restored and turned
into museums. Once again fashionable with R U E B A R B E T T E
the monied classes, designer boutiques, R U E D U PA R C R O YA L
trendy restaurants, art galleries and
cafés now line the streets.
To the R U E E L Z E V I R
Pompidou
Centre R U E PAY E N N E
RUE DES HOSPITALIERES R U E D E S F R A N C S -
ST GERVAIS
R U E D E S E V I G N E





R U E P B O U R G E O I S
R U E D E S R O S I E R S
3 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois R U E M A L H E R AV E E
This ancient street is lined with intriguing
buildings and trendy shops.













4 Musée Cognacq-Jay
An exquisite collection of
8 Rue des Rosiers 18th-century paintings and
The smell of hot pastrami and borscht wafts from furniture is shown in perfect
restaurants and shops in the heart of the Jewish area.
period setting.


0 metres 100
0 yards 100
2 Hôtel de Lamoignon
Behind the ornate
doorway of this fine
Key
mansion is Paris’s
Suggested route historical library.



094-095_EW_Paris.indd 94 03/04/17 10:55 am

THE M AR AIS  95



0 . Musée Picasso Paris BEAUBOURG THE
The renovated Hôtel Salé LES HALLES MARAIS
AND
is the setting for the largest
collection of Picassos in the S e i n e
world, many of which came ILE DE LA
CITE
from Picasso’s own collection ILE ST-LOUIS
after his death
(see pp100–101).
Locator Map
See Central Paris Map pp16–17

The Hôtel Le Peletier de
R U E D U PA R C R O YA L
St-Fargeau adjoins the Hôtel
Carnavalet to form a museum
R U E PAY E N N E of Paris’s history.




R U E D E S E V I G N E T U R E N N E R U E D E B E A R N

R U E D E S F R A N C S -
B O U R G E O I S

The statue of Louis XIV in
R U E D E 1 . Musée Carnavalet
Roman dress by Coysevox
is in the courtyard of the
Hôtel Carnavalet.


6 Maison de
Victor Hugo
Author of Les
Misérables, Victor
Hugo lived at No. 6
Place des Vosges,
where his house is
R U E D E B I R A G U E life and work.
now a museum of his




To Metro
Sully Morland



5 . Place des Vosges
Once the site of jousting
and tournaments, the
7 Hôtel de historic Place des Vosges,
Bethune-Sully in the very heart of the
This hôtel was built for a Marais, is a square of
notorious gambler. perfect symmetry.




094-095_EW_Paris.indd 95 03/04/17 2:48 pm

96  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

1 Musée Carnavalet

While currently closed for major building work,
this museum, devoted to the history of Paris, is
scheduled to reopen in 2019 with completely Memorabilia in
refurbished displays of its vast collection, this room is
which occupies two adjoining mansions. dedicated to
18th-century
The Hôtel Carnavalet, built as a town house in philosophers, in
1548, was transformed in the mid-17th century Louis XV Room particular Jean-
by François Mansart, while the neighbouring This delightful room contains Jacques Rousseau
17th-century Hôtel Le Peletier de St-Fargeau art from the Bouvier and Voltaire.
features superb early 20th-century interiors. collection and panelling
from the Hôtel de Broglie.
In both, entire rooms are decorated with
panelling, furniture and objets d’art, while
the many works of art include paintings and
sculptures of prominent personalities,
and engravings showing Paris being built.

















. Charles Le Brun Ceiling
Magnificent works by the 17th-
century artist, originally in the
Hôtel de la Rivière, decorate Sign
the former study and great hall. Galleries









Entrance







. Mme de Sévigné’s Gallery
The gallery includes this portrait . Hôtel d’Uzès Reception Room
of Mme de Sévigné, the The room was created in 1761 by
celebrated letter-writer, whose Claude Nicolas Ledoux. The gold-
beloved home this was for the and-white panelling is from a Rue
20 years up to her death. Montmartre mansion. Exit




096-097_EW_Paris.indd 96 03/04/17 10:49 am

THE M AR AIS  97


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Second floor Practical Information
16 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois
75003. Map 14 D3. Tel 01 44 59 58
58. Closed for renovation until
2019. ∑ carnavalet.paris.fr
Transport
q St-Paul, Chemin Vert. @ 29, 69,
Convention Room 76, 96 to St-Paul, Pl des Vosges.
Georges Danton’s h Hôtel de Ville, Rue St-Antoine.
portrait is among
the memorabilia
of the Revolution.
First floor
Marie-Antoinette in
Mourning (1793)
Alexandre Kucharski painted
her at the Temple prison after
the execution of Louis XVI.










Fouquet
Jewellery
Boutique (1900)
The Art Nouveau
decor of this shop
from Rue Royale
is by A Mucha.
Sign
Galleries


Writers’ Rooms
Hôtel Le Peletier de
St-Fargeau
Key to Floorplan
. Ballroom of the Hôtel de Wendel
Prehistory to Gallo-Roman
The early 20th-century ballroom interior has been
Medieval Paris reconstructed. This immense mural depicts the
Renaissance Paris retinue of the Queen of Sheba and is by the Catalan
designer and painter José María Sert y Badia.
17th-century Paris
Louis XV’s Paris
Louis XVI’s Paris Gallery Guide
Revolutionary Paris The collection is mainly arranged chronologically. Hôtel Carnavalet
18th-century Paris covers the history of Paris up to 1789. The exhibits encompassing
the 17th century to the Revolution are on the first floor. In the Hôtel
19th century Le Peletier de St-Fargeau, the ground floor comprises the First and
20th century Second Empires, with the prehistory and Gallo-Roman departments
Temporary exhibitions in the Orangery; from the Second Empire to the present day is on
Non-exhibition space the first floor, and the second floor is devoted to the Revolution.




096-097_EW_Paris.indd 97 03/04/17 10:49 am

98  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA


2 Hôtel de
Lamoignon
24 Rue Pavée 75004. Map 14 D3.
Tel 01 44 59 29 40. q St-Paul.
Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat.
Closed public hols. ∑ paris.fr
The imposing Hôtel de
Lamoignon, one of the oldest
mansions in Paris, is home to
the Historical Library of the
city (BHVP). It was built in 1585
for Diane de France, also known
as the Duchesse d’Angoulême, The exquisite 18th-century works of art and furniture in the Musée Cognacq-Jay
daughter of Henri II. The building
is noted for six high Corinthian from taxes) – almshouses built to the city and is now housed
pilasters topped by a triangular for the poor in 1334 at Nos. 34 in the heart of the Marais at
pedi ment and flourishes of and 36. These were later closed the Hôtel Donon – an elegant
dogs’ heads, bows, arrows because of illegal financial building dating from 1575
and quivers – recalling Diane’s activities, although the state with an 18th-century façade.
passion for hunting. The col- kept its pawnshop nearby,
lection includes documents still there today.
from the French Revolution 5 Place des Vosges
and 80,000 prints covering 4 Musée 75003, 75004. Map 14 D3.
the history of Paris. q Bastille, St-Paul.
Cognacq-Jay
This square is considered
3 Rue des Francs- Hôtel Donon, 8 Rue Elzévir 75003. Map among the most beautiful in
Bourgeois 14 D3. Tel 01 40 27 07 21. q St-Paul, the world by Parisians and
Chemin Vert. Open 10am–6pm Tue–
75003, 75004. Map 14 D3. Sun. Closed public hols. 8 by appt. visitors alike (see pp26–7).
q Rambuteau, Chemin-Vert. = ∑ museecognacqjay.paris.fr Its impressive symmetry –
36 houses, nine on each side,
This street is an important This fine small collection of of brick and stone, with deep
thoroughfare in the heart of French 18th-century works of slate roofs and dormer windows
the Marais, linking the Rue des art and furniture was formed by over arcades – is still intact
Archives and the Place des Ernest Cognacq and his wife, after 400 years. It has been the
Vosges, with the imposing Louise Jay, founder of the Art scene of many historic events
Hôtel de Soubise at one end Deco La Samaritaine, which was over the centuries. A three-day
and the Musée Carnavalet at once Paris’s largest department tournament was held here
the other. The street got its store (see p117). The private to celebrate the marriage of
name from the francs (free collection was bequeathed Louis XIII to Anne of Austria in






















The beautiful Place des Vosges, with fountains in the central courtyard




098-099_EW_Paris.indd 98 03/04/17 10:55 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.9)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm