(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Paris

ST-GERM AIN-DES-PRES  149


time, such as Emile Bernard and
the Nabis group. There are also
a number of paintings from
his Tahitian period. Works by
Vincent Van Gogh are also
included here.
The Nabis (which included
Pierre Bonnard) tended to treat
the canvas as a flat surface out of
which a sense of depth emerged
as the viewer gazed upon it.
The dream-like visions
of Odilon Redon are in the
Symbolist vein, while the naïve
art of Henri (Douanier) Rousseau
is represented by War (1894)
Olympia (1863) by Edouard Manet and The Snake Charmer (1907).
Impressionism (1895–1900). Van Gogh was Naturalism and
momentarily influenced by the Symbolism
Rouen Cathedral caught at movement but then went his
various moments of the day own way, illustrated here by Three large rooms are devoted
(1892–3) is one of the many works from the collection of to paintings that filled the Salons
works on show by Claude Dr Gachet. from 1880 to 1900. The work of
Monet, the leading figure of the the Naturalists was
Impressionist movement. Pierre- sanctioned by the
Auguste Renoir’s plump nudes Third Republic and
and his young people Dancing widely reproduced
at the Moulin de la Galette (1876) at the time. Fernand
were painted at the high point Cormon’s figure of
of his Impressionist period. Cain was highly
Other artists on display include acclaimed when it
Camille Pissarro, Alfred Sisley first appeared in the
and Mary Cassatt. 1880 Salon. Jules
Edgar Degas and Paul Bastien-Lepage’s
Cézanne are included here, interest lay in
although their techniques Breton Peasant Women (1894) illustrating peasant
differed from those of the by Paul Gauguin life, and in 1877 he
Impressionists. Degas often painted Haymaking, which
favoured crisp Realism, though Neo-Impressionism established him as one of the
he was quite capable of using leading Naturalists. His fairly
the sketchy manner of the Although labelled Neo- free handling of paint was
Impressionists, as, for instance, Impressionism, the work of influenced by what he had
in L’Absinthe (1876). Cézanne Georges Seurat (which includes learned from Manet and his
was more concerned with The Circus from 1891) was quite friends. More sombrely (and
substance than light, as can be unrelated to the older movement. effectively) naturalistic is Lionel
seen in his Apples and Oranges He, along with Maximilien Luce Walden’s view of The Docks of
and Paul Signac, painted Cardiff (1894).
by applying small dots Symbolism developed as a
of colour that blended reaction against Realism and
together when viewed Impressionism and tended to be
from a distance. Jane dominated by images of dreams
Avril Dancing (1892) is and thoughts. This resulted in a
just one of many pictures wide variety of subjects and
by Henri de Toulouse- modes of expression. There is the
Lautrec on display. The over-sweet vision of levitating
work Paul Gauguin harpists, Serenity by Henri Martin
made at Pont-Aven in (1899), Edward Burne-Jones’
Brittany is shown next monumental work Wheel of
to that of younger artists Fortune (1883) and Jean Delville’s
who knew him at the School of Plato (1898). One of the
most evocative paintings in this
Blue Water Lilies (1919) section is Winslow Homer’s lyrical
by Claude Monet Summer Night (1890).




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Pont-St Michel
Petit Pont
St-Michel
QUAI ST MICHEL
PLACE DU
HARPE RUE X PRIVAS St-Michel PETIT PONT
RUE ST SEVERIN QUAI DE MONTEBELLO
RUE DE LA
SA I N T M IC HEL PARCHEMINERIE J A C Q U E S RUE DANTE RUE RUE DE LA BUCHERIE RUE MAITRE ALBERT QUAI DE S e i n e
RUE DE LA
Cluny la
R F SAUTON
Sorbonne
R U E D E B I E V R E
RUE DE CLUNY
R U E D E S B E R NA RD I N S
RUE DOMAT
RU E GALANDE LAGRANGE
Maubert
RUE THENARD
SQUARE
Mutualité
ET PLACE BLVD ST GERMAIN B LV D S T GE RM A IN Pont de la Tournelle
RUE
RUE CHAMPOLLION P PAINLEVE
R U E D E P O N T O I S E LA TOURNELLE
R U E D E S C A R M E S
RUE JEAN DE BEAUVAIS
COCHIN
B OU LEV AR D PL DE LA S A I N T LATRAN R U E D E S E C O L E S RUE ST VICTOR R U E D E P O I S S Y C A R D I N A L L E M O I N E CHANTIERS Pont de Sully
RUE DE
RUE DE LA SORBONNE
QUARTIER
LATIN
RUE DES
SORBONNE
RUE DE
SQUARE
R U E V A L E T T E
P LANGEVIN
RUE V R U E R U E IMPASSE CHARTIERE LANNEAU POLYTECHNIQUE JARDIN DE RUE D'ARRAS R U E D U RUE DES FOSSES SAINT BERN AR D
R U E M O N G E
COUSIN C U J A S
RUE DE L'ECOLE
RUE DE LA MO NTAGNE STE GENEVIEVE
NAVARRE
R U E C U J A S
R U E S O U F F L O T
PLACE DU PLACE STE Cardinal
PANTHEON GENEVIEVE Lemoine
R U E
CLOTAIRE
RUE R U E D E S C A R T E S C L O V I S
R U E M A L E B R A N C H E
RUE CLOTILDE THOUIN
RUE
RUE DE L' ESTRAPADE
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P ARIS AREA B Y AREA  151

LATIN QUARTER

Located on the Left Bank, the Latin Quarter garden or an ancient church. Many of these
spreads over the 5th and 6th arrondissements. charming streets, like Rue du Chat qui Pêche
One of the oldest and best-known areas of (Cat who Fishes) and Rue St-Jacques, which
Paris, this lively neighbourhood exudes a is probably the oldest in Paris, are now
Bohemian charm. It emerged in the Middle pedestrianized and filled with small cafés,
Ages as a student quarter, with the celebrated ethnic boutiques and second-hand
Sorbonne University attracting scholars from bookshops. Meet up with friends at the
all over Europe, and it continues to have a tree-lined Place St-André des Arts, an old
significant student presence today. gathering place for French artists, or wander
Bisected by Boulevards St-Germain and to the fascinating Musée de Cluny, set inside
St-Michel, most of the area is a maze of tiny old Roman baths and filled with colourful
cobblestoned streets leading to a medieval artifacts and works of art.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Squares Restaurants see pp303–5
2 Boulevard St-Michel 5 Place Maubert 1 Anahuacalli
7 La Sorbonne Museums and Galleries 2 L’Atlas
8 Collège de France 3 Brasserie Balzar
1 Musée de Cluny – Musée National
Churches du Moyen Age pp154–7 4 Breakfast in America
5 Café de la Nouvelle Mairie
3 St-Séverin 6 Musée de la Préfecture de Police 6 Itinéraires
4 St-Julien-le-Pauvre 7 El Loubnane
9 Chapelle de la Sorbonne 8 Perraudin
0 St-Etienne-du-Mont 9 Le Petit Châtelet
q Panthéon pp160–61 0 metres 200 10 Le Petit Pontoise
0 yards 200
11 Le Pré Verre
Pont-St Michel 12 Shakespeare & Co Café
13 Sola
Petit Pont 15 La Tour d’Argent
St-Michel 14 Terroir Parisien
QUAI ST MICHEL
PLACE DU
HARPE RUE X PRIVAS St-Michel PETIT PONT
RUE ST SEVERIN QUAI DE MONTEBELLO
RUE DE LA
SA I NT MICHEL PARCHEMINERIE J A C Q U E S RUE DANTE RUE RUE DE LA BUCHERIE RUE MAITRE ALBERT QUAI DE S e i n e
RUE DE LA
Cluny la
R F SAUTON
Sorbonne
R U E D E B I E V R E
RUE DE CLUNY
R U E D E S B E R NA R D I N S
RUE DOMAT
RU E GALANDE LAGRANGE
Maubert
SQUARE
RUE THENARD
Mutualité
ET PLACE BLVD ST GERMAIN B LV D S T GE RM A IN Pont de la Tournelle
RUE
RUE CHAMPOLLION P PAINLEVE
R U E D E P O N T O I S E LA TOURNELLE
R U E D E S C A R M E S
RUE JEAN DE BEAUVAIS
COCHIN
B OU LEVARD PL DE LA S A I N T LATRAN R U E D E S E C O L E S RUE ST VICTOR R U E D E P O I S S Y C A R D I N A L L E M O I N E CHANTIERS Pont de Sully
RUE DE
RUE DE LA SORBONNE
QUARTIER
LATIN
RUE DES
SORBONNE
RUE DE
SQUARE
R U E V A L E T T E
P LANGEVIN
R U E M O N G E
RUE V R U E R U E IMPASSE CHARTIERE LANNEAU POLYTECHNIQUE JARDIN DE RUE D'ARRAS R U E D U RUE DES FOSSES SAINT BERNAR D
COUSIN C U J A S
RUE DE L'ECOLE
RUE DE LA MO NTAGNE STE GENEVIEVE
NAVARRE
R U E C U J A S
R U E S O U F F L O T
PLACE DU PLACE STE Cardinal
PANTHEON GENEVIEVE Lemoine
R U E
CLOTAIRE
RUE R U E D E S C A R T E S C L O V I S
R U E M A L E B R A N C H E
RUE CLOTILDE THOUIN
RUE DE L' ESTRAPADE
RUE See also Street Finder
map 12, 13, 17
Interior view of the Panthéon's dome For keys to symbols see back flap
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152  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Latin Quarter

Since the Middle Ages, this riverside quarter has been Place St-Michel
dominated by the Sorbonne, and acquired its name from contains a
fountain by
the early Latin‑speaking students. It dates back to the Davioud. The
Roman town across from the Ile de la Cité; at that time, bronze statue by
the Rue St‑Jacques was one of the main roads out of Duret shows St
Paris. The area is generally associated with artists, Michael killing
the dragon.
intellectuals and the bohemian way of life; it also has a
history of political unrest. In 1871, the Place St‑Michel
became the centre of the Paris Commune, and in May Metro
1968, it was the site of the student uprisings. Today, the St-Michel
eastern half has become sufficiently chic, however, to QUAI ST MICHEL
contain the homes of some of the establishment.
RUE DE LA HARPE RUE DE LA HUCHETTE


Metro Cluny
La Sorbonne
BLVD ST MICHEL
RUE DU PETIT PONT






2 . Boulevard St-Michel
The northern end of the Boul’Mich, as it is
affectionately known, is a lively mélange of
cafés, book and clothes shops, with bars and
experimental cinemas nearby.

RUE ST-JACQUES








RUE THENARD

RUE DES ECOLES





No. 22 Rue
St-Séverin is the
1 . Musée National du narrowest house in
Moyen Age Paris and used to be
One of the finest collections of medieval art the residence of Abbé
in the world is kept here in a superb late Prévost, author of
15th‑century building. Manon Lescaut.




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LA TIN QU AR TER  153


3 . St-Séverin BEAUBOURG AND
Begun in the 13th century, this beautiful S e i n e LES HALLES MARAIS
THE
church took three centuries to build and is a ILE DE
fine example of the Flamboyant Gothic style. ST-GERMAIN- LA CITE
DES-PRES
ILE
ST-LOUIS
Rue du Chat qui Little Athens is a LATIN
Pêche (meaning lively place in the QUARTER JARDIN DES
“street of the evening, especially at LUXEMBOURG QUARTER
PLANTES
QUARTER
fishing cat”) is the the weekend, when
narrowest street the Greek restaurants
in Paris at just situated in the
1.8 m (6 ft) wide. touristy streets
around St-Séverin
are at their busiest.
PETIT PONT
QUAI ST MICHEL


RUE DE LA HUCHETTE
RUE DU PETIT PONT RUE GALANDE RUE ST JULIEN LE QUAI DE MONTEBELLO No. 37 Rue de la Bûcherie is a delightful,
PONT AU
DOUBLE
Shakespeare & Co (see pp323–4) at
PAUVRE
if chaotic, bookshop. Any books
purchased here are stamped with
Shakespeare & Co Kilomètre Zéro Paris.
















RUE THENARD BLVD ST-GERMAIN RUE LAGRANGE Rue du Fouarre used to host 4 . St-Julien-le-Pauvre
One of the oldest churches in
Paris, St-Julien-le-Pauvre has
13th-century Romaneque
lectures in the Middle Ages.
architecture. The vault was
The students sat on straw
(fouarre) in the street. added in the 17th century.
Metro 0 metres 100
Maubert Rue Galande was home 0 yards 100
Mutualité to the rich and chic in
the 17th century, but
subsequently became Key
notorious for its taverns.
Suggested route






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154  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

1 Musée de Cluny – Musée National du Moyen Age

The museum is housed in the former Medieval Mansion
town house of the Abbots of Cluny, l’Hotel The museum building
was completed in 1500
de Cluny. Surrounded by imaginatively during the abbacy of
recreated medieval gardens, the museum Jacques d’Amboise,
is a unique combination of Gallo-Roman Abbot of Cluny.
ruins, incorporated into a medieval
mansion, and contains one of the world’s
finest collections of medieval art including
paintings, sculptures, tapestries, stained
glass and silver and ivory objects.

. Golden Rose (1330)
The goldsmith Minucchio
da Siena made this rose for
the Avignon Pope John XXII.














. Lady with the Unicorn
This outstanding series of six
tapestries is a fine example
of the millefleurs style, which
was developed in the 15th and
early 16th centuries. The style is
noted for its graceful depiction
of plants, animals and people.


Gallo-Roman Baths
Built in AD 100, the baths lasted
for about 200 years before
being abandoned.







Caldarium
(hot bath room)

Gallo-Roman Frigidarium
The arches of this cold bath room date
from the 1st and 2nd centuries. They
have been decorated with pairs of
carved ship’s prows, thought to refer
to the association of Paris boatmen.




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LA TIN QU AR TER  155

1 Musée de Cluny – Musée National du Moyen Age Books of Hours VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The museum possesses Books
of Hours from the 15th century. Practical Information
The illuminated pages include 6 Pl Paul-Painlevé.
scenes showing the Labours of Map 13 A5.
the Months, accompanied by the Tel 01 53 73 78 16/00.
relevant sign of the zodiac.
Open 9:15am–5:45pm Wed–
Mon. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec. & 8 = Concerts.
Workshops.
∑ musee-moyenage.fr
Transport
Medieval chapel q Cluny-La-Sorbonne,
St-Michel, Odéon. @ 21, 27,
38, 63, 86, 87 to Rue Soufflot,
Rue des Ecoles. W St-Michel,
Cluny-La Sorbonne. h Bd St-
Germain, Pl Edmond Rostand.





Octagonal tower




. Gallery of the Kings
In 1977, 22 of the 27 stone heads of the
Kings of Judah (carved around 1220
during the reign of Philippe Auguste and
removed from Notre-Dame in the 18th
century) were unearthed during
excavations behind the Opéra.
Gallery Guide
Entrance The collection is spread throughout
the two floors of the building. It
is mainly medieval and covers a
wide range of items, including
illuminated manuscripts, tapestries,
textiles, precious metals, alabaster,
ceramics, sculpture and church
Key to Floorplan furnishings. A number of Gallo-
Roman artifacts are displayed
Gallo-Roman ruins around the sides of the frigidarium,
Medieval mansion and the small circular room nearby
Courtyard entrance 19th- and 20th-century section contains some capitals.


c.100 Public baths built 1747 Octagonal 1789 Seized in 1833 Rented by Alexandre
tower used as the Revolution du Sommerard, collector
1500 Building of observatory and sold by of medieval artifacts
mansion by Jacques the State 1844 Opened as
d’Amboise completed a museum
200 1450 1750 1800 1850
1819 Baths
c.300 Baths abandoned excavated on
because of social change the orders of 1843 House and
Louis XVIII collection bought
1600 Hôtel becomes residence
of papal nuncios Louis XVIII at his desk by State



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156  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Exploring the Musée de Cluny’s Collection

Alexandre du Sommerard settled in the Hôtel de Cluny in Stained Glass
1833 and installed his art collection with great sensi tivity
to the surroundings and a strong sense of the dramatic. Most of the Cluny’s glass from
After his death, the hôtel and its contents were sold to the the 12th and 13th centuries is
French. The oldest examples
State and turned into a museum. were originally installed in
the Basilique­Cathédrale de
Carvings St­Denis in 1144. There are
also three fragments from the
The diverse techniques of Troyes Cathedral, destroyed by
medieval European wood­ fire, two of which illustrate the
carvers are well represented. life of St Nicholas while the
From the Nottingham work­ third depicts that of Christ.
shops in England, there are Numerous panels came
wood as well as alabaster to the Cluny from Sainte­
works which were widely used Chapelle (see pp88–9),
as altarpieces all over Europe. during its mid­19th­century
Among the smaller works of restoration, and were never
this genre are The School, which returned, including five
is touchingly realistic and dates scenes from the story of
from the early 16th century. Samson dating from 1248.
Upstairs, there are some fine The technique of contrasting
Flemish and south German coloured glass with surround­
The Arithmetic tapestry woodcarvings. The multi­ ing grisaille (grey­and­white
coloured figure of St John panels) developed in the latter
Tapestries is typical. Two notable altar­ half of the 13th century. Four
pieces on display are the panels from the royal château
The tapestries are remarkable intricately carved and at Rouen illustrate this.
for their quality, age and state of painted Lamentation
preservation. In The Arithmetic, of Christ (about 1485)
arithmetic – one of the liberal from the Duchy of
arts of the Quadrivium alongside Clèves, and the
geometry, astronomy and Averbode altarpiece,
music – is personified by an which was made in
elegant female figure, who is 1523 in Antwerp,
counting tokens while consulting and depicts three
the book given as a present by scenes including
one of the surrounding men. the Last Supper.
More everyday scenes are shown Not to be missed
in the magnificent series The is a beautiful full­
Noble Life (about 1500). Upstairs is length figure of Stained-glass scene from Brittany (1400)
the Lady with the Unicorn series. Mary Magdalene.
The School woodcarving (English,
early 16th century)























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LA TIN QU AR TER  157


Precious Metalwork
The museum has a fine collec­
tion of jewellery, coins, metal
and enamelwork from Gallic
times to the Middle Ages. The
showcase of Gallic jewellery
includes gold torques, bracelets
and rings, all of a simple design.
In between these is one of the
Cluny’s most precious exhibits,
the Golden Rose, a delicately
wrought piece commissioned
by Pope John XXII in 1330 and
the oldest known of its kind.
The earliest enamelwork on
display is the late Roman and The Pillar of the Nautes
Byzantine cloisonné pieces,
La Reine de Saba, the head of a queen from culminating in the remarkable Gallo-Roman Ruins
St-Denis c.1140 Limoges enamels, which
flourished in the late 12th One of the main reasons for
Sculpture century. There are also two visiting the Musée de Cluny –
exceptional altarpieces, the Musée National du Moyen Age
The highlight here is the Gallery Golden Altar of Basel and the is to see the scale and layout of
of the Kings, a display of heads Stavelot altarpiece. its earliest function, the Gallo­
and decapitated figures, Roman baths. The vaulted
originally from Notre­Dame. frigidarium (cold bath room)
There is also a graceful statue of was the largest of its kind in
Adam, sculpted in the 1260s. France. Here, there is another of
In the vaulted room the museum’s highlights, the
oppo site are displays of restored Pillar of the Nautes
fine Rom anesque sculpture (boatmen), unearthed during
retrieved from French churches. excavations beneath Notre­
Among the earliest are the Dame in 1711. Com posed
12 capitals from the nave of of five carved stone blocks
St­Germain­des­Prés, from the representing Gallic and Roman
early 11th century. Retrieved divinities, its crowning element
from the portal of St­Denis is presumed to depict the
is a boldly sculpted head of Seine’s boatmen. There are
a queen, Le Reine de Saba also the ruins of the caldarium
(c.1140) which, though badly Cross from and tepidarium (hot and tepid
mutilated, is still compelling. Italy (late baths), and visitors can tour
Other Romanesque and 15th century) the underground vaults.
early Gothic capitals include
three finely sculpted works
from Catalonia and four of the Lady with the Unicorn Tapestries
mus eum’s most famous statues, This series of six tapestries was
early 13th­century apostles woven in the late 15th century.
made for Sainte­Chapelle. They are valued for their fresh
harmonious colours and the
Everyday Objects poetic elegance of the central
figure. Allegories of the senses are
Household goods show another illustrated in the first five tapestries:
side to medieval life, and this sight (gazing into a mirror), hearing
large collection is grouped (playing a portable organ), taste
in a sensitive way to illustrate (sampling sweets), smell (sniffing
their use – from wallhangings carnations) and touch (the lady
and caskets to kitchenware holding the unicorn’s horn). The
and clothing. Children’s enigmatic sixth tapestry (showing
toys bring a very human jewels being placed in a box)
includes the words “to my only
aspect to the display, while desire” and is thought to represent
travel cases and religious a sixth sense “Heart” and the
emblems evoke journeys of principle of free choice. Unicorn on the sixth tapestry
exploration and pilgrimage.



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158  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA


2 Boulevard 5 Place Maubert
St-Michel 75005. Map 13 A5. q Maubert-
Mutualité.
75005 & 75006. Map 12 F5 & 16 F1.
q St-Michel, Cluny-La Sorbonne. From the 12th to the middle of
W Luxembourg. the 13th century, “La Maub” was
one of Paris’s scholastic centres,
Cut through the area in 1869, with lectures given in the open
the boulevard initially gained air. After the scholars moved
fame from its many literary to the new colleges of the
cafés, but nowadays many Montagne Sainte-Geneviève,
have been replaced by the square became a place of
clothes shops. Nos. 60–64 torture and execution, including
house the Ecole Nationale that of the philosopher Etienne
Supérieure des Mines, one of Dolet, who was burnt at the
France’s leading engineering stake in 1546.
schools (see p175). In the Place Inside St-Julien-le-Pauvre So many Protestants were
St-Michel, marble plaques burnt here in the 16th century
commemorate the many ambulatory circling the that it became a place of
students who died here chancel. In 1684, the Grande pilgrimage for the followers
in 1944 fighting the Nazis. Mademoiselle, cousin to Louis of the new faith. Its dark
XIV, adopted St-Séverin after reputation has been replaced
breaking with St-Suplice and by respectability and a notable
had the chancel modernized. street market.
The burial ground here, which
is now a garden, was the site of
the first operation for gall stones 6 Musée de
in 1474. An archer who had la Préfecture
been condemned to death was de Police
offered his freedom by Louis XI
if he consented to the operation 4 Rue de la Montagne Sainte-
and lived. (It was a success, and Geneviève 75005. Map 13 A5.
the archer went free.) In the Tel 01 44 41 52 50. q Maubert-
garden stands the church’s medi- Mutualité. Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–
eval gable-roofed charnel house. Fri, 10:30am–5:30pm 3rd Sat of month.
Closed Sun & public hols. 8 by appt.
4 St-Julien-
le-Pauvre A darker side to Paris’s history is
illustrated in this small, rather
79 Rue Galande 75005. Map 13 A4. Tel old-fashioned museum.
01 43 54 52 16. q St- Michel. W St Created in 1909, the collection
Michel-Notre-Dame. Open 9:30am– traces the development of the
Door of St-Séverin church decorated with 1:30pm, 3–6:30pm daily. 5 12:15pm police in Paris from the Middle
carved stone arches Tue & Thu, 11am Sun. Concerts. See Ages to the 20th century.
Entertainment p338. ∑ sjlpmelkites.fr Curiosities on show include
3 St-Séverin arrest war rants for figures such
At least three saints can claim as the famous revolutionary
3 Rue-des-Prêtres-St-Séverin 75005.
Map 13 A4. Tel 01 42 34 93 50. to be patron of this church, but Danton, and a rather sobering
q St-Michel. Open 11am–7:30pm the most likely is St Julian the display of weapons and tools
Mon–Sat, 9am–8pm Sun. 5 daily. Hospitaller. The church, together used by famous criminals.
Concerts. ∑ saint-severin.com with St-Germain-des-Prés, is There is also a section on the
one of the oldest in Paris, dating part the police played in the
One of the most beautiful from between 1165 and 1220. Resistance and subsequent
churches in Paris, St-Séverin The university held its official liberation of Paris.
is a perfect example of the meetings in the church until
Flamboyant Gothic style. It is 1524, when a student protest
named after a 6th-century created so much damage that
hermit who lived in the area university meetings were barred
and persuaded the future from the church by parliament.
St Cloud, grandson of King Since 1889, it has belonged to
Clovis, to take holy orders. the Melchite sect of the Greek
Construction finished during Orthodox Church, and it is now
the early 16th century and the setting for chamber and
included a remarkable double religious music concerts. Weapons in the police museum




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LA TIN QU AR TER  159

7 La Sorbonne 9 Chapelle de
1 Rue Victor Cousin 75005. Map 13 la Sorbonne
A5. Tel 01 40 46 22 11. q Cluny- Pl de la Sorbonne 75005. Map 13 A5.
La Sorbonne, Maubert-Mutualité. Tel 01 40 46 22 11. q Cluny-La
Open by appt only. 8 Mon–Fri, Sorbonne, Maubert-Mutualité.
plus one Sat a month, by appt only: W Luxembourg. Open for guided
write to [email protected]. tours only (one Sat every month),
∑ english.paris-sorbonne.fr by appt. &
The Sorbonne, seat of the Designed by Lemercier and
University of Paris, was built between 1635 and 1642,
established in 1253 by Robert this chapel is, in effect, a
de Sorbon, confessor to Louis monument to Richelieu, with
IX, for 16 poor students to study his coat of arms on the dome
theology. The college soon supports and his white marble
became the centre of scholastic tomb, carved by Girardon in
theology. In 1469, the rector Statues outside the Collège de France 1694, in the chancel. The
had three printing machines chapel’s attractive lateral
brought over from Mainz, 8 Collège de France façade looks on to the main
thereby founding the first 11 Pl Marcelin-Berthelot 75005. courtyard of the Sorbonne.
printing house in France. The Map 13 A5. Tel 01 44 27 12 11 or 01
college’s opposition to liberal 44 27 11 47. q Maubert-Mutualité.
18th-century philosophy led Open Oct–Jun: 9am–6pm Mon–Fri.
to its suppression during the ∑ college-de-france.fr
Revolution. It was re-established
by Napoleon in 1806. The One of Paris’s great institutes of
buildings built by Richelieu in research and learning, the college
the early 17th century were was established in 1530 by
replaced by the ones seen François I. Guided by the great
today, with the exception of humanist Guillaume Budé, the
the chapel. king aimed to counteract the
intolerance and dogmatism of
the Sorbonne. A statue of Budé
stands in the west courtyard,
16th-century and the unbiased approach
belfry tower to learning is reflected in the
inscription on the old college
entrance: docet omnia (all are
taught here). Lectures are
free and open to the public, Chapelle de la Sorbonne clock
depending on availability.
St-Etienne- 0 St-Etienne-
du-Mont du-Mont
30 Rue Descartes, Pl Ste-Geneviève
Medieval window 75005. Map 17 A1. Tel 01 43 54 11 79.
q Cardinal Lemoine. Open 8:45am–
Rood screen 7:45pm Tue–Fri; 8:45am–noon, 2–
7:45pm Sat; 8:45am–12:15pm, 2:30–
7pm Sun (school holidays: 10am–noon,
4–7:45pm Tue–Sat). 8 3pm. 5 daily.
= ∑ saintetiennedumont.fr
This remarkable church houses
the shrine of Sainte Geneviève,
patron saint of Paris, as well as
the remains of the great literary
figures Racine and Pascal. Some
parts are in the Gothic style and
others date from the Renaissance,
including a magnificent rood
screen that crosses the nave like
a bridge. The stained-glass
windows are also of note.




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160  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

q Panthéon

When Louis XV recovered from desperate illness in 1744, he was
so grateful to be alive that he conceived a magnificent church to
honour Sainte Geneviève. The design was entrusted to the
French architect Jacques-Germain Soufflot, who planned the
church in Neo-Classical style. Work began in 1757 and was
completed in 1790, ten years after Soufflot’s death, under the
control of Guillaume Rondelet. But with the Revolution underway,
the church was soon turned into a pantheon – a location for the
tombs of France’s great and good. Napoleon returned it to the
Church in 1806, but it was secularized and then desecularized
once more before finally being made a civic building in 1885. The Façade
Inspired by Rome’s Pantheon,
the temple portico has
Pediment Relief 22 Corinthian columns.
David d’Angers’
pediment bas-relief
depicts the mother
country (France)
granting laurels to her
great men.




The Panthéon Interior
The interior has four
aisles arranged in the
shape of a Greek
cross, from the
centre of which
the great
dome rises.











KEY
1 The arches of the dome were Entrance
designed by Rondelet and show
a renewed interest in the lightness
of Gothic architecture. They link four
pillars supporting the dome, which
weighs 10,000 tonnes and is 83 m
(272 ft) high.
2 The dome galleries afford a
magnificent panoramic view of . Frescoes of
France’s capital. Sainte Geneviève
3 The dome lantern allows only a Murals along the south
little light to filter into the church’s wall of the nave depict the
centre. Intense light was thought life of Sainte Geneviève.
inappropriate for the place where They are by Pierre Puvis de
France’s heroes rested. Chavannes, the 19th-century
fresco painter.




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LA TIN QU AR TER  161


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Pl du Panthéon. Map 17 A1.
Tel 01 44 32 18 00. Open 10am–
6:30pm daily (Oct–Mar: to 6pm)
(last adm 45 min before closing).
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
& ^ 8 ∑ pantheon.
monuments-nationaux.fr
Transport
q Jussieu, Cardinal-Lemoine,
Maubert-Mutualité. @ 84 to
Panthéon; 21, 27, 38, 82, 84, 85,
89 to Gare du Luxembourg. W
. Iron-Framed Dome Luxembourg h Pl E Rostand.
The tall dome, with its stone
cupolas and three layers of
shells, was inspired by St Paul’s
in London and the Dôme des
Invalides (see pp188–9).




Colonnade
The colonnade
encircling the dome is
both decorative and
part of an ingenious
supporting system.













Monument to Diderot
This is Alphonse Terroir’s
statue (1925) to the
political writer Denis Diderot.

The Panthéon’s Enshrined
The first of France’s great men to be entombed
here (though later removed on the orders of
Robespierre) was the popular orator Honoré
Mirabeau. Voltaire followed; his statue, in front of
his tomb, is by Jean-Antoine Houdon. Other
literary notables here include Jean-Jacques
Rousseau, Victor Hugo and Emile Zola. In the
1970s, the remains of the wartime Resistance
leader Jean Moulin were reburied here. Pierre and
. Crypt Marie Curie’s remains were transferred here in
Covering the entire area under the 1995, followed by Alexandre Dumas in 2002.
building, the crypt divides into galleries In 2015, four more Resistance fighters – two of
flanked by Doric columns. Many French them women – took their place in the Pantheon.
notables rest here.




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P ARIS AREA B Y AREA  163

JARDIN DES
PLANTES QUARTER


Founded in 1626 as the royal medicinal plant a botanical school. Head to the daily market
gardens, this tranquil area soon became a on Rue Mouffetard to buy cheese and wine,
scientific laboratory and botanical research then enjoy a picnic lunch in the gardens.
centre. It is dominated by the Jardin des Another calm respite from the busy city is the
Plantes, but it also contains three galleries of Institut du Monde Arabe, with panoramic
the Natural History Museum, a small zoo and views across the Seine to Notre-Dame.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Museums and Galleries Restaurants see pp303–5
4 Arènes de Lutèce 2 Musée de la Sculpture en 1 L’Agrume
6 Rue Mouffetard Plein Air 2 Chez Gladines
Places of Worship 9 Muséum National d’Histoire 3 Dans les Landes
Naturelle
4 Marty
7 St-Médard q Fondation Jérôme 5 Mavrommatis
8 Grande Mosquée de Paris
Seydoux-Pathé
Modern Architecture w Mobilier National et La
1 Institut du Monde Arabe Manufacture des Gobelins
Squares, Parks and Gardens
3 Ménagerie
5 Place de la Contrescarpe Pont de
0 Jardin des Plantes Sully
Quai Saint-
Bernard
0 metres 400
R DES FOSSES ST-BERNARD Q U A I S A I N T
R U E
Cardinal B E R N A R D 0 yards 400
Lemoine
R DU CARDINAL LEMOINE RUE MONGE R U E Jussieu R U E C U V I E R Jardin-des-
R DES BOUL ANGERS
Plantes
Pont
R THOUIN RUE ROLLIN d’Austerlitz
J U S S I E U
JARDIN DES PLACE
R DES ARENES L I N N É VALHUBERT
PLANTES
RUE
R U E L A C E P E D E
Place Q U A I
de Gaulle
Monge CLEF LA RUE B U F F O N Gare Pont C
RUE MONGE DE R U E G E O F F
d’Austerlitz
TOURNEFORT
PLACE L LARREY R U E
Gare
HERR RUE d’Austerlitz D ’ A U S T E R L I T Z
RUE MOUFFETARD
S e i n e
SQUARE
Censier C E N S I E R MARIE CURIE
Daubenton BOULEVARD DE L'HÔPITAL
R LHOMOND
R U E RUE DAUBENTON R O Y S T - H I L A I R E R U E P O L I V E A U
Saint
Marcel
R U E D U F E R A M O U L I N L’ESSAI RUE DE
BO U LEV A RD S AI N T M AR C EL
R DE LA CLEF
RUE COYPEL L E V A R D D E L ' H Ô P I T A L
Les D'ARC Quai de la Gare
R JEANNE
Gobelins L E B R U N Campo Formio
R U E D U B A N Q U I E R R U E P I N E L R U E J E N N E R R U E B R U A N T Chevaleret
R U E
RUE ESQUIROL
RUE RUBENS
R DE CAMPO-FORMIO
R U E J E A N N E D ' A R C
B O U RUE FAGON Nationale
A V E N U E D E S G O B E L I N S
Place d'Italie
See also Street Finder
400m
map 13, 17–18
Pedestrians strolling in the Jardin des Plantes For keys to symbols see back flap
162-163_EW_Paris.indd 163 03/04/17 10:56 am

164  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Jardin des Plantes Quarter

Two physicians to Louis XIII, Jean Hérouard Metro
and Guy de la Brosse, obtained permission to Cardinal
establish the royal medicinal herb garden in Lemoine
the sparsely populated St-Victor suburb in
1626. The herb garden and gardens of various
religious houses gave the region a rural
character. In the 19th century, the population A R D I N A L L E M O I N E R RUE DES BOULANGERS
and thus the area expanded and it became U E
more built up, until it gradually assumed the 5 Place de la Contrescarpe

This village-like square
character it has today: a well-to-do residential filled with restaurants

patchwork of 19th- and early 20th-century and cafés buzzes with U C

buildings interspersed with much older and student life after dusk. D

M
some more recent buildings. E O
U N
R R U E R O L L I N G
E


R U E
R U E S T M E D A R D
6. Rue Mouffetard
Locals flock to this market street, one of
the oldest in the city, where vendors’ R U E O R T O L A N R
displays spill onto the cobblestones in R U
a colourful spread of fresh produce, U E

pastries, wine and other fare. E O G A

R
M
I
R
Pot de Fer fountain is one of 14 that Marie U C E U
F
U
F
E
de Médici had built on the Left Bank in Metro Place E S
E
1624 as a source of water for her palace in Monge T A O
M
the Jardin du Luxembourg. The fountain R N
was rebuilt in 1671. G
D
E
Passage des Postes
is an ancient alley R U E D E L’ E P E E D E B O I S
which was opened in
RUE DES PATRIARCHES R U E D E M I R B E L
1830. Its entrance is in
the Rue Mouffetard.

7 St-Médard RUE DE L’ARBALETE
This church was started in
the mid-15th century and
completed by 1655. In CANDOL
1784, the choir was made RUE DE LE
Classical in style, and the
nave’s 16th-century
windows were replaced
with contemporary
stained glass.
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JARDIN DES PLANTES QU AR TER  165


4. Arènes de Lutèce ILE DE MARAIS
THE
The Roman amphitheatre LA CITE ILE ST-LOUIS
of Lutetia was used for QUARTER
LATIN
burials in the 4th century.
LUXEMBOURG S e i n e
QUARTER JARDIN DES
PLANTES
QUARTER
Locator Map
R
RUE DES BOULANGERS
See Central Paris Map pp16–17
U
E


Rue des Arènes is



round the corner

from the Arènes de


Lutèce. No. 5 is an

M O interesting Gothic
RUE DES ARENES R E L N E Jean Paulhan lived
Revival house in
N
which the writer
G
U
E

from 1940.
I
R U E R O L L I N
N
R U E RUE DE NAVARRE
L A C E P E D E
Cuvier Fountain
is a memorial to
R
naturalist Georges
U
Cuvier. It was
E

erected in 1840 by
R
G
P Vigouroux, with
U
E
E
figure carving by
O

F
G
Jean-Jacques
F
RUE QUATREFAGES
R
R
Feuchère.
R
A
O
C
U
R
Y
I
E

R
U
E

S
U
E
D
U

T
E

L
E

S

H
E
A
M
L
I L I
R
O
A
R

A
N
E
C
G
Y
L
R
E
F
R U E D E L’ E P E E D E B O I S E E
RUE G DESPLAS DU GRIL
R U E D A U B E N T O N
Metro Censier-Daubenton
R U E D E M I R B E L
8. Grande Mosquée
de Paris
Key This Hispano-Moorish mosque,
Suggested route the centre of Paris’s Muslim
community, includes within
its walls a Turkish bath, a
0 metres 100
Moorish café and restaurant,
0 yards 100 and an oriental bazaar.
164-165_EW_Paris.indd 165 03/04/17 10:56 am

166  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

1 Institut du
Monde Arabe
1 Rue des Fossées St-Bernard,
Pl Mohammed V 75005. Map 13 C5.
Tel 01 40 51 38 38. q Jussieu,
Cardinal-Lemoine. Open Museum &
temp exhibs: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri,
10am–7pm Sat & Sun. Library: call for
opening hours. & 7 8 Lectures.
0 - ∑ imarabe.org
This cultural institute was
founded in 1980 by France and
20 Arab countries with the
intention of fostering cultural
links between the Arab world
and the West. It is housed in a
magnificent build ing designed
by Jean Nouvel (who was also
responsible for the Musée
du quai Branly, see pp194–5), mind the minaret of a mosque. From floors four to seven, there’s
combining modern materials The emphasis that is tradition ally a fascinating display of Islamic
with the spirit of traditional Arab placed on interior space in Arab works of art from the 9th to the
archi tecture. The white marble archi tecture has been used here 19th centuries, including
book tower, which can be seen to create an enclosed courtyard ceramics, sculpture, carpets
through the glass of the west reached by a narrow gap and astrolabes. There is also a
wall, spirals upwards bringing to splitting the building in two. library and media archive.
2 Musée de la Jardin Tino Rossi in honour of sent from abroad. Unfortunately,
Sculpture en the celebrated Corsican singer. during the Prussian siege of
Plein Air The garden has a display of Paris (1870–71), most of these
open-air sculpture known as
animals were slaughtered in
Quai St-Bernard, Square Tino Rossi the Musée de la Sculpture en order to feed the hungry
75005. Map 13 C5. q Gare Plein Air. Vandalism and other citizens (see p227).
d’Austerlitz, Sully-Morland. problems have unfortunately Today, the zoo specializes
necessitated the removal of in small mammals, insects,
Butting up to the left-hand some of the exhibits. birds, primates and reptiles.
corner of the Institut du It is a great favourite with
Monde Arabe, the Pont de children as it allows them
Sully links the Ile St Louis 3 Ménagerie to get quite close to the
with both banks of the Seine. 57 Rue Cuvier/Rue Buffon 75005. animals, and feeding times
Opened in 1877 and built of Map 17 C1. Tel 01 40 79 56 01. are especially popular. The
cast iron, the Pont de Sully is q Jussieu, Austerlitz. Open summer: lion house contains panthers
not an especially beautiful 9am–6pm daily (to 6:30pm Sun & from China and other attrac-
structure. Despite this, it is public hols); winter: 9am–5/5:30pm tions include a large monkey
well worth pausing for a daily. Last adm 30 min before closing. house, a waterfowl aviary, and
moment on the bridge for a & 0 - h = 8 for groups, by wild sheep and goats.
fabulous view of Notre-Dame appt. ∑ zoodujardindesplantes.fr
rising dramatically behind the
graceful Pont de la Tournelle. France’s oldest public zoo Child playing
Running along the river is situated in the pleasant at the zoo
from the Pont de Sully as far surroundings of the Jardin
as the Pont d’Austerlitz is the des Plantes. The Ménagerie
peaceful Quai St-Bernard. was set up during the
Not always so sedate, Quai Revolution to house the
St-Bernard was famous during survivors from the Royal
the 17th century as a spot for menagerie at Versailles –
nude bathing, until scandalized all four of them. The
public opinion made it illegal. state then rounded
The grassy slopes adjoining up animals from
the quai make a perfect spot circuses, and a
to enjoy a picnic. Opened in number of exotic
1975, they are known as the creatures were




166-167_EW_Paris.indd 166 03/04/17 10:56 am

JARDIN DES PLANTES QU AR TER  167

Light Screens
The south elevation is made up of 1,600 high-tech metal screens
that filter the light entering the building. Their design is based on
moucharabiyahs (carved wooden screens found on the outsides
of buildings from Morocco to Southeast Asia).



Each screen contains 21 irises which are
controlled electronically, opening and
closing in response to the amount of
sunlight falling on photosensitive screens.


The central iris is made up of
interlocking metal blades which move
to adjust the size of the central opening.




The peripheral irises are linked to
one another and to the central iris.
They open and close in unison
forming a delicate pattern of light
and shade inside the institute.


The displays in the vivarium Action towards its restoration constellation of The Pleiades)
(enclosures of live animals began with the campaigning used to meet in the 16th
in their natural habitat) are of Victor Hugo (among others) century. Four hundred years
changed at regular intervals, in the 19th century but work later, authors such as Ernest
and there is a permanent did not get really underway Hemingway, James Joyce and
exhibition of micro-arthropods until 1918. George Orwell also found the
(also known as creepy-crawlies!) With a seating capacity of streets of this historically
15,000, arranged in 35 tiers, the working-class neighbourhood
original arena was used both for a great source of inspiration.
4 Arènes de Lutèce theatrical performances and as The area has always been
an amphitheatre for gladiator used for meetings and festivals.
49–59 Rue Monge/4 Rue des Arènes
75005. Map 17 B1. Tel 01 45 35 02 fights. This type of combined use Today, it still embodies old Paris,
56. q Jussieu, Cardinal Lemoine. was peculiar to Gaul (France), with its narrow cobblestone
Open hours vary, but usually and the arena is similar to the streets and charming cafés, and
8/9am–6pm, depending on the other ones in Nîmes and Arles. is very lively at weekends.
time of year.
The remains of this vast Roman 5 Place de la
arena (Lutetia was the Roman Contrescarpe
name for Paris) date from the
late 1st century (see p23). Its 75005. Map 17 B1. q Place Monge.
destruction began towards the
end of the 3rd century at the At one time, this site lay outside
hands of the Barbarians, and the city walls. It gets its name
later, parts of it were used to from the backfilling of the moat
build the walls of the Ile de la that ran along Philippe-Auguste’s
Cité. The arena was then wall. The present square was laid
gradually buried and its exact out in 1852, but the small
location preserved only in old fountain was added in 1994.
documents and the local At No. 1, there is a memorial
name Clos des Arènes. It was plaque to the old “pine-cone
rediscovered in 1869 during club” immortalized in the
the construction of the Rue writings of Rabelais; here, a
Monge and the allocation group of writers known as Part of the medieval city wall near Place de
of building plots nearby. La Pléiade (named after the la Contrescarpe




166-167_EW_Paris.indd 167 03/04/17 10:56 am

168  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA


Buffon and the Jardin des Plantes Grand Imam. It comprises
religious, educational and
At the age of 32, Georges Louis Leclerc, Comte de Buffon (1707–88), commercial sections; at its heart is
became the curator of the Jardin des Plantes at a time when the a mosque. Each of the mosque’s
study of natural history was at the forefront of domes is decorated differently,
contemporary thought – Charles Darwin’s and the minaret stands nearly
On the Origin of Species was to be published
120 years later. Buffon masterminded the 33 m (100 ft) high. Inside is a
reorganization of the Jardin, propelling it to grand patio with mosaics on the
a pre-eminent position within the scientific walls and tracery on the arches.
world. He was elected to the Académie Once used only by scholars, the
Française in 1752 following the mosque’s place in Parisian life has
publication of his two main works, grown over the years. The Turkish
Natural History and The Epoques of baths are strictly for women only.
Nature. He died in his A tearoom and restaurant serve
house in the Jardin. Moorish specialities.
Illustration of a
primate from Buffon’s
Natural History

6 Rue Mouffetard 7 St-Médard
75005. Map 17 B2. q Censier- 141 Rue Mouffetard 75005. Map 17 B2.
Daubenton, Place Monge. Tel 01 44 08 87 00. q Censier-
Open Market Place Maubert: 7am– Daubenton. Open 8am–12:30pm &
2:30pm Tue, Thu, Sat (to 3pm Sat); Place 2:30–7:30pm Tue–Sat; 9am–12:30pm
Monge: 7am–2:30pm Wed, Fri, Sun (to & 4–8:30pm Sun. 5 various times.
3pm Sun). See Shops and Markets p331. 7 ∑ saintmedard.org
A major thoroughfare since The origins of this church go back
Roman times, when it linked to the 9th century. St Médard, Tiles inside the Grande Mosquée de Paris
Lutetia (Paris) and Rome, this counsellor to the Merovingian
street is one of the oldest in kings, was known for giving a
the city. In the 17th and 18th wreath of white roses to young 9 Muséum National
centuries, it was known as the girls noted for their virtue. The d’Histoire Naturelle
Grande Rue du Faubourg churchyard became notorious in
St-Marcel, and many of its build- the 18th century as the centre of 2 Rue Buffon 75005. Map 17 C2.
ings date from that time. Some the cult of the Convulsionnaires, Tel 01 40 79 54 79 or 01 40 79 54
of the small shops still have whose hysterical fits were 56 01. q Jussieu, Austerlitz.
ancient painted signs, and some brought on by the contem- Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon.
Closed 1 May. & 7 restricted.
houses have mansard roofs. No. plation of miracle cures. The - = Library. ∑ mnhn.fr
125 has an attractive, restored interior has many fine paintings,
Louis XIII façade, and the entire including the 17th-century Originally a botany research
front of No. 134 has beautiful St Joseph Walking with the Christ centre in the 17th century, the
decoration of wild beasts, Child by Francisco de Zurbarán. museum was founded in 1793
flowers and plants. At No. 60, to include the study of animals.
the Fontaine de Pot-de-Fer is It was the stomping ground
a small fountain dating from 8 Grande Mosquée of naturalists Buffon (see above
Roman times. Later on, it was de Paris left) and Lamarck, whose
connected to an aqueduct research eventually influenced
used by Marie de Médicis to 2 bis Pl du Puits de l’Ermite 75005 Charles Darwin and his On the
take water to the Palais du (Turkish baths/tearoom: 39 Rue Origin of Species.
Luxembourg and its gardens. Geoffrey St-Hilaire). Map 17 C2. Tel The museum has three
The area is known for its 01 45 35 97 33; 01 43 31 14 32 (baths, galleries in the surroundings
tearoom). q Place Monge. Open
open-air markets, especially 9am–noon, 2–6pm. Baths: 9am–9pm of the Jardin des Plantes: the
those in Place Maubert, Place Wed–Mon; tearoom: 9am–midnight Galerie de Minéralogie et de
Monge and Rue Daubenton, daily. Closed Muslim hols. 0 - 8 Géologie, with its crystals, gems
a side street where a lively Library. ∑ mosqueede paris.net and meteorites; the Galeries
African market takes place. Café & baths: ∑ la-mosquee.com d’Anatomie Comparée et de
At night, the street bustles Paléontologie, housing dinosaur
with people enjoying the Greek, Built in the 1920s in the Hispano- skeletons and fossils; and the
Italian, Argentinian and other Moorish style, this complex is the Grande Galerie de l’Evolution,
cuisines on offer at the many spiritual centre for Paris’s Muslim featuring stuffed tigers and
small restaurants. community and the home of the elephants. With more than




168-169_EW_Paris.indd 168 03/04/17 10:56 am

JARDIN DES PLANTES QU AR TER  169


62 million specimens, the Pathé, a major French film
museum has the third-largest production and distribution
research collection in the world. company, is the second-oldest
Built in 1838 for the Universal operating film company in
Exposition, the Galeries the world. The foundation is
d’Anatomie Comparée et de dedicated to the preservation
Paléontologie mesmerize young of it’s legacy and to promoting
visitors with their collection of cinematography. The building
dinosaur skeletons, including a has a 68-seat screening room for
Triceratops and a Tyrannosaurus silent films, plus temporary and
rex. Children will also be permanent collections of films,
entranced by the Grande cameras, projectors, programmes
Galerie de l’Evolution, with its and posters dating back to 1896.
vast display illustrating the It is a treasure trove for film
evolution and subsequent enthusiasts and researchers.
extinction of various organisms.
Climate change and sustain-
ability also play a large part in The cedar of Lebanon, Jardin des Plantes w Mobilier National
this exhibit. Created for children et La Manufacture
aged 6–12 and their families in anatomy, it quickly attracted des Gobelins
mind, the Children’s Gallery, renowned scientists, such as the
also in the Grande Galerie de Comte de Buffon (see opposite), 42 Ave des Gobelins 75013. Map 17
l’Evolution, is a hands-on whose studies were to shape B3. Tel 01 44 08 53 49. q Gobelins.
exhibition focusing on Darwin’s views on evolution. Open for guided tours Sat, or groups
biodiversity and man’s impact Today, this popular botanical by appt. Temporary exhibitions:
on the environment. garden is home to three galleries 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. 8 2:30 & 4pm
The bookshop is located in of the Muséum National Sat. & Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
∑ mobiliernational.culture.
the house where Buffon lived d’Histoire Naturelle, and it gouv.fr
until his death in 1788. includes a small zoo, a gorgeous
rose garden and a labyrinth that Originally a dyeing workshop set
kids adore. As well as beautiful up in about 1440 by the Gobelin
vistas and walkways flanked by brothers, the building became
ancient trees and punctuated a tapestry factory early in the
with statues, the park features a 17th century. Louis XIV took
remarkable alpine garden with it over in 1662 and gathered
plants from the Alps, the together the greatest craftsmen
Himalayas, Corsica and Morocco, of the day – carpet weavers,
and an unrivalled display of wild cabinet-makers and silversmiths
and herbaceous plants. It also – to furnish his new palace
Skull of a dimetrodon, in the Muséum has the first cedar of Lebanon to at Versailles (see pp250 –55).
National d’Histoire Naturelle be planted in France, originally Working under the direction
from Britain’s Kew Gardens. of court painter Charles Le
0 Jardin des Brun, 250 Flemish weavers laid
Plantes q Fondation the foundations for the factory’s
international reputation. Today,
57 Rue Cuvier/2 Rue Buffon 75005. Jérôme Seydoux- weavers continue to work in
Map 17 C1. Tel 01 40 79 56 01. q Pathé the traditional way but with
Jussieu, Austerlitz. Open 7:30am–8pm modern designs, including
(8am–5:30pm winter) daily. 0 8 73 Ave des Gobelins 75013. Map 17 B4. those of Picasso and Matisse.
Tel 01 83 79 18 96. q Place d’Italie, Les
A treasure to locals in the 5th Gobelins. Open Salle Charles Pathé &
arrondissement, the Jardin des Exhibitions: 1–7pm Tue–Fri, 11:30am–
Plantes comprises a museum, 7pm Sat. Research Centre: by appt only.
a zoo, botanical gardens, a Ciné-Spectacle: 2:30pm Wed (01 83 79
science lab and a university 18 96). & 8 noon Sat.
research centre. Previously ∑ fondation-jeromeseydoux-
known as Jardin de Roi, it pathe.com
started as a medicinal herb
garden created by Guy de la The headquarters of the Fon-
Brosse and Jean Hérouard, King dation Jérôme Seydoux-Pathé
Louis XIII’s physicians in 1626. sits on the site of a mid-19th-
After opening to the public in century theatre that was trans-
1640 and offering a free school formed into one of Paris’s first Versailles tapestry by Le Brun, La Mobilier
of botany, chemistry and cinemas in the mid-1900s. National et La Manufacture des Gobelins




168-169_EW_Paris.indd 169 03/04/17 10:56 am

Mabillon
R U E D U RUE MABILLON R. CLEMENT
RUE DE SEVRES RUE MADAME F O U R R. LOBINEAU
Sèvres R BONAPARTE RUE D. CANETTES
R DU CHERCH E MIDI RUE DU VIEUX COLO MBIER RUE SAIN T SULPICE RUE DE TOURNON
Babylone St-Sulpice PLACE
R COETLOGON RENNE S
ST-SULPICE
RUE DE MEZIERES
R UE DE R U E C A SS E T T E R. BONAPARTE R U E F E R O U R SERVANDONI RUE
R U E
M A D A M E R U E D E V A U G I R A R D PLACE PAUL
RUE PALATINE GARANCIERE
CLAUDEL
D ' A S S A S
RUE JEAN BART R U E GUYNEMER RUE DE MEDICIS PLACE
RUE DE JARDIN DU EDMOND
ROSTAND
FLEURUS LUXEMBOURG
M ICH E L COLLARD
RUE R ROYER
R U E
PLACE DE
L'ESTRAPADE
PLACE A R U E RUE DE L'ESTRAPADE
HONNORAT RUE SAINT JACQUES R P I E R R E E T
R U E A U G U S T E C O M T E S AINT Luxembourg M A R I E C U R I E R U E R U E T O
AVENUE DE L'OBSERVATOIRE RUE DE L'ABBE DE L'EPEE R U E D ' U L M
G A Y
RUE DES
B O U LEVARD RUE DES FEUILLANTINES PLACE P PLACE L
RUE
D ' A S S A S
R U E M I C H E L E T RU E H E N R I BA RBUS S E URSULINES L THUILLIER RUE ERASME L H O M O N D
R AMYOT U R N E F O R T
R U E P I E R R E N I C H O L
HERR
L U S S A C
LAMPUE
PLACE E RUE DU VAL DE GRACE R CLAUDE RUE RATAUD RUE VAUQUELIN
DENIS
Port Royal RUE ST JACQUES BERNARD
R U E B E R T H O L L E T
100m
B O U L E V A R D D E P O R T - R O Y A L
300m
170-171_EW_Paris.indd 170 25/04/16 4:18 pm

P ARIS AREA B Y AREA  171

LUXEMBOURG QUARTER

Nestled between St-Germain-des-Prés and beautiful landmarks of the city, that dominates
the Latin Quarter, this area has its own the area. Inspired by the Boboli Gardens in
unique charm of winding streets, beautiful Florence, it was initiated by Marie de Médici
buildings, bookshops and art galleries. From in 1612. The garden beckons with its expansive
the austerity of the Palais du Luxembourg, lawns, charming fountains and gorgeous
home of the French Senate, to the calm of sculptures. Breathtaking orchid and rose
the magnificent church of St-Sulpice, this is gardens, outdoor photography exhibitions
a much sought-after part of Paris. However, it and traditional games of boules played under
is the Jardin de Luxembourg, one of the most chestnut trees add to the serenity of the area.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Squares, Parks and Gardens Restaurants see pp305–6
3 Palais du Luxembourg 1 Place St-Sulpice 1 L’Auberge du 15
6 Institut Catholique de Paris 5 Jardin du Luxembourg 2 L’Ourcine
Churches Museums and Galleries 3 Les Papilles
2 St-Sulpice 8 Musée du Luxembourg
7 St-Joseph-des-Carmes q Ecole Nationale Supérieure
0 Val-de-Grâce des Mines
Fountains
4 Fontaine Médicis
9 Fontaine de l’Observatoire
Mabillon
R U E D U RUE MABILLON R. CLEMENT
RUE DE SEVRES RUE MADAME F O U R R. LOBINEAU
Sèvres R BONAPARTE RUE D. CANETTES
R DU CHERCH E MIDI RUE DU VIEUX COLO MBIER RUE SAIN T SULPICE RUE DE TOURNON
Babylone St-Sulpice PLACE
R COETLOGON RENNES
ST-SULPICE
RUE DE MEZIERES
R UE DE R U E C A SS E T T E R. BONAPARTE R U E F E R O U R SERVANDONI RUE
R U E
M A D A M E R U E D E V A U G I R A R D PLACE PAUL
RUE PALATINE GARANCIERE
CLAUDEL
D ' A S S A S
RUE JEAN BART R U E GUYNEMER RUE DE MEDICIS PLACE See also Street Finder
maps 12, 16
RUE DE JARDIN DU EDMOND
ROSTAND
FLEURUS LUXEMBOURG
M ICH E L COLLARD
RUE R ROYER
R U E
PLACE DE
L'ESTRAPADE
PLACE A R U E RUE DE L'ESTRAPADE
HONNORAT RUE SAINT JACQUES R P I E R R E E T
R U E A U G U S T E C O M T E SAIN T Luxembourg M A R I E C U R I E R U E R U E T O
AVENUE DE L'OBSERVATOIRE RUE DE L'ABBE DE L'EPEE R U E D ' U L M
G A Y
RUE DES
B O U LEVARD RUE DES FEUILLANTINES PLACE P PLACE L
RUE
D ' A S S A S
R U E M I C H E L E T RU E H E N R I BA RBUS S E URSULINES L THUILLIER RUE ERASME L H O M O N D
R AMYOT U R N E F O R T
R U E P I E R R E N I C H O L
HERR
L U S S A C
LAMPUE
PLACE E RUE DU VAL DE GRACE R CLAUDE RUE RATAUD RUE VAUQUELIN
DENIS
Port Royal RUE ST JACQUES BERNARD
0 metres 400 B O U L E V A R D D E P O R T - R O Y A L R U E B E R T H O L L E T
0 yards 400 100m
300m
Fontaine Médicis, Jardin du Luxembourg For keys to symbols see back flap
170-171_EW_Paris.indd 171 01/06/2016 12:55

172  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Luxembourg Quarter

Situated only a few steps from the bustle of St-Germain-des-Prés, this
graceful and historic area offers a peaceful haven in the heart of a modern
city. The Jardin du Luxembourg and Palais du Luxembourg dominate the
quarter. The gardens became fully open to the public in the 19th century
under the ownership of the Comte de Provence (later Louis XVIII), when To St-Germain-des-Prés
for a small fee, visitors could come in and feast on fruit
from the orchard. Today, the gardens, palace and
old houses on the streets to the north remain
unspoilt and attract many visitors.

1 Place St-Sulpice
The Fontaine des Quatre
Points Cardinaux depicts
four church leaders at
the cardinal points of
the compass. Point also R U E H E N R I D E J O U V E N E L R
means “never”: the U
leaders were never R E

made cardinals. U G A
E
A

R
S
E



V
C


A
R N I
E
N
R
R
D
2 . St-Sulpice U O E
E

This Classical F I
N
church was built E
R
over 134 years to O
Daniel Gittard’s U
plans. It has a R U E D E V A U G I R A R D
façade by the Italian
architect Giovanni
Servandoni.
The Monument to Delacroix
(1890) by Jules Dalou is
situated near the private
gardens of the French Senate.
Beneath the bust of the
leading Romantic painter
Eugène Delacroix are the
allegorical figures of Art,
Time and Glory.
5 . Jardin du Luxembourg
Many fine statues were erected in
the Luxembourg gardens in the
19th century during the reign of
Louis-Philippe.
172-173_EW_Paris.indd 172 25/04/16 4:47 pm

L UXEMBOURG QU AR TER  173


The Rue de Tournon is full of ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES
elegant architecture, boutiques S e i n e
and old bookshops. At No. 12 is LATIN
the Grand Hôtel d’Entragues, QUARTER
reconstructed by Neveu in the
18th century during Louis XVI’s reign. LUXEMBOURG
QUARTER
JARDIN DES
PLANTES
QUARTER
MONTPARNASSE
Locator Map
See Central Paris Map pp16–17
Key

3 . Palais du Luxembourg Suggested route
In 1794, during the Revolution, the painter
Jacques-Louis David was imprisoned here
and made sketches for the Intervention of 0 metres 100
the Sabine Women.
0 yards 100
R
U
R
E
U
D
E
R N E N
E

G
T
A
O
U
A
R
C
I
O
N
E
R U E D E V A U G I R A R D R 4 . Fontaine Médicis
The 17th-century fountain is in the style of an Italian
grotto and is thought to have been designed by
Salomon de Brosse.
R
Sainte Geneviève, the
U
E patron saint of Paris, was a

wealthy 5th-century
D
E
Gallo-Roman land-

owner. When Paris
M
E
was invaded by the
D
I
Huns in AD 451, she
C
I
S prayed with women
friends that the
city would be spared –
their prayers were
answered. This statue
by Michel-Louis
Victor (1845) pays
homage to her.
The Octagonal Lake (Grand
Bassin), attributed to Jean-
François Chalgrin, is surrounded
by formal terraces where visitors
to the gardens often sunbathe.
172-173_EW_Paris.indd 173 25/04/16 4:47 pm

174  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA


1 Place St-Sulpice storey west front with two tiers 4 Fontaine Médicis
of elegant columns. The overall
75006. Map 12 E4. q St-Sulpice. Jardin du Luxembourg, Rue de
harmony of the build ing is Vaugirard 75006. Map 12 F5.
This large square, which is marred only by the towers, one W Luxembourg.
dominated on the east side at each end, which do not match.
by the enormous church from Large arched windows fill the Built in 1624 for Marie de Médici
which it takes its name, was interior with light. By the front by an unknown architect, this
built in the last half of the door are two huge shells given vigorous Baroque fountain stands
18th century. to François I by the Venetian at the end of a long pond filled
Two main features of the Republic – they rest on bases with goldfish. The mythological
square are the Fountain of sculpted by Jean-Baptiste Pigalle. figures were added much later
the Four Bishops by Joachim In the side chapel to the right by Auguste Ottin (1866).
Visconti (1844) and the pink- of the main door are three
flowering chestnut trees. There magnificent murals by Eugène
is also the Café de la Mairie, a Delacroix: Jacob Wrestling with the 5 Jardin du
rendezvous of writers and Angel (see p139), Heliodorus Driven Luxembourg
students, which is often from the Temple and St-Michael
featured in French films. Killing the Dragon. If you are lucky, Blvd St-Michel/Rue de Vaugirard/
you can catch an organ recital. Rue Guynemer 75006. Map 12 E5.
Tel 01 42 34 23 89 or 01 42 34 20 00.
q Odéon. W Luxembourg. Open
3 Palais du dawn–dusk daily. 8 Wed (Apr–Oct).
Luxembourg - ∑ senat.fr/visite
19 Rue de Vaugirard 75006. Map 12 E5.
Tel 01 42 34 20 60 (groups, apply three A green oasis covering 25 ha
months in advance); 01 44 54 19 30 (60 acres) in the heart of the
(individuals, email [email protected]). Left Bank, this is one of the
q Odéon. W Luxembourg. Open by most popular parks in Paris. The
appt (see above), by guided tour (see beautifully sculpted gardens
below) and during exhibitions, when are centred around the Palais
hours vary. 8 one Sat each month. du Luxembourg and feature
^ ∑ senat.fr/visite an octagonal basin that is
often surrounded by children
Now the home of the French sailing their toy boats.
Stained-glass window of St-Sulpice Senate, this palace was designed The Jardin du Luxembourg
by Salomon de Brosse in the was created at the request of
2 St-Sulpice style of Florence’s Pitti Palace to Marie de Médici between 1612
remind Marie de Médicis, widow and 1631. Homesick for her
2 Rue Palatine, Pl St-Sulpice 75006. Map of Henri IV, of her native town. hometown of Florence, she had
12 E5. Tel 01 42 34 59 98. q St-Sulpice.
Open 7:30am–7:30pm daily. 5 daily. By the time it was finished it designed to remind her of the
8 Crypt: 3:30pm 2nd & 4th Sun of (1631), Marie had been banished, Boboli Gardens. The original
month (Tel 01 43 25 03 10). Concerts. but it remained a royal palace garden measured 8 ha (20 acres),
∑ paroisse-saint-sulpice-paris.org until the Revolution. In World and remaining today are the
War II, it was the headquarters large pond, the Fontaine
It took over a century, from 1646, of the Luftwaffe. The Musée du Médicis and 2,000 elm trees.
for this imposing church to be Lux em bourg, in the east gallery, Statues were placed around
built. The result is a simple two- hosts art exhibitions (see p175). the park around 1848, and they
include those of the queens of
France, famous French women –
Sainte Genevieve, patron of
Paris, is an impressive example –
and, later, famous writers and
artists, too, totalling 106 statues.
The garden is a great space
for children, with activities such
as a puppet theatre starring
the famous character Guignol,
a fenced-in playground, a
carousel and tennis courts.
Adults can play chess or
bridge, wander through
the open-air photography
exhibitions or grab a chair
Sculptures on the Palais du Luxembourg and enjoy a free concert.




174-175_EW_Paris.indd 174 03/04/17 10:56 am

L UXEMBOURG QU AR TER  175

6 Institut a fifth, Oceania, was left out for
Catholique de Paris reasons of symmetry. There are
some subsidiary figures, including
21 Rue d’Assas 75006. Map 12 D5. dolphins, horses and a turtle.
Tel 01 44 39 52 00. q St-Placide, The sculpture was erected in
Rennes. Musée Bible et Terre
Sainte Open Call to check times. 1873 by Jean-Baptiste Carpeaux.
Tel 01 45 44 09 55. ∑ icp.fr
Founded in 1875, this is 0 Val-de-Grâce
one of the most distinguished 1 Pl Alphonse-Laveran 75005. Map 16
teaching institutions in F2. Tel 01 40 51 51 92. q Gobelins.
France with some 23,000 W Port Royal. Open noon–6pm Tue–
students. It also houses a Thu, Sat–Sun. & 5 frequent, pm;
small museum, the Musée 11am Sun (except Aug). 8 by appt
Bible et Terre Sainte, which noon–6pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun
displays numerous objects (01 40 51 51 92). Museum: Open as
excavated in the Holy Land. church. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
They give an interesting insight Concerts. ∑ valdegrace.org
into daily life in Palestine
throughout the ages. One of France’s most beautiful
churches, Val-de-Grâce was built
7 St-Joseph-des- for Anne of Austria (wife of Louis
XIII) in thanks for the birth of her
Carmes son. Young Louis XIV laid the first
Carpeaux’s fountain sculpture stone in 1645. François Mansart
70 Rue de Vaugirard 75006. Map 12
D5. Tel 01 45 44 89 77. q St-Placide. 8 Musée du is the great architect behind it.
Open 9:30am–1:30pm Mon, Tue & The church is noted for its
Fri, 11am–6pm Wed, 9:30am–7pm Luxembourg imposing lead-and-gilt dome,
Thu. Closed Easter Mon, Pentecost. which stands at an impressive
5 various times. 7 restricted. 8 19 Rue de Vaugirard 75006. Map 12 E5. 41 m (135 ft). In the cupola is
3pm Sat. ∑ sjdc.fr Tel 01 40 13 62 00. q St-Sulpice. W Pierre Mignard’s fresco, with over
Luxembourg. Open 10am–7:30pm 200 triple-life-size figures. The six
Completed in 1620, this church daily (to 10pm Mon & Fri). Times huge marble columns that frame
was built as the chapel for a vary depending on exhibitions; the altar are similar to those at
check website ahead of visit. Closed
Carmelite convent but was 1 May & 25 Dec. 7 & 8 - ^ St Peter’s in Rome. Henrietta of
used as a prison during the = ∑ museeduluxembourg.fr France (wife of Charles I) is buried
Revolution. In 1792, more than here, along with 26 members of
a hundred priests met a grisly In 1615, under the orders of the French royal family.
end in the church’s courtyard Marie de Médicis, architect Today, the church is part of
as part of the September Salomon de Brosse built the a military hospital complex,
Massacres (see pp32–3). Their Palais du Luxembourg. The two which also houses a museum
remains are now in the crypt. adjoining galleries were created of military medicine.
to hang the Queen’s collection of
paint ings by Rubens. In 1750, the q Ecole Nationale
east wing became France’s first
public gallery, housing works Supérieure des
by artists such as Leonardo da Mines
Vinci, Van Dyck and Rembrandt.
Following extensive renovations, 60 Blvd St-Michel. Map 16 F1. Tel 01 40
today it hosts impres sive 51 91 39. W Luxembourg. Museum:
temporary exhibitions. Open 1:30–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–
12:30pm & 2–5pm Sat. Times vary in
Jul & Aug. Closed public hols. & 8
9 Fontaine de call 01 40 51 92 90 to request a visit.
l’Observatoire ∑ musee.mines-paristech.fr
Ave de l’Observatoire/Rue d'Assas.
Map 16 E2. W Port Royal. Louis XIV set up the School of
Mines in 1783 to train mining
Situated at the southern tip of engineers. Today, it is one of the
the Jardin du Luxembourg, this most prestigious grandes écoles
is one of the liveliest fountains in – schools that provide the elite
Paris. Made of bronze, it has four for the civil service and
Façade of St-Joseph-des-Carmes, a site of women holding aloft a globe professions. It also houses the
the September Massacres in 1792 representing four continents – national Musée de Minéralogie.




174-175_EW_Paris.indd 175 03/04/17 10:56 am

V A U G I R A R D St-Placide
D E R E N N E S B O U L E V Notre-Dame-
des-Champs
R U E Montparnasse D E R U E
Bienvenüe
R U E 8 •13 RUE VAVIN
RUE STANISLAS
Falguière AVE DU MAINE PLACE MONTPARNASSE A R D R U
B O U L E V A R D
RUE DE
DU 18
RUE FALGUIERE MOISANT BIENVENUE RUE DU DEPART D'ODESSA RUE RUE DELAMBRE PLACE P RUE BREA E N O T R E D A M E D E S C H A M P S
Pasteur R ANTOINE BOURDELLE PLACE L'ARRIVEE JUIN 1940 R A S P A I L D ' A S S A S
DU D U
RUE
R LE VERRIER
Vavin
PICASSO
RUE ARMAND
RUE DU DR ROUX D'ARSONVAL BLVD DE VAUGIRARD Montparnasse LA GAITE Quinet EDGAR QUINET M O N T P A R N A S S E
R HUYGHENS
BLVD
Bienvenüe
Gare
Montparnasse
Edgar
RUE CAMPAGNE-
RUE
R U E F A L G U I È R E RU E ANDRÉ GIDE ATLANTIQUE RUE DU CDT RENE A V E N U E D U DE MONTPARNASSE Raspail B O U L E V A R D R U E B O I S S O N A D E Port Royal
PREMIERE
JARDIN
MOUCHOTTE
CIMETIERE DU
RUE
R U E E M I L E R I C H A R D
RUE DU COTENTIN
AVE DENFERT-ROCHEREAU
Gaîté
B O U L EVA R D P A S T E U R
PLACE DE RUE JEAN ZAY
RUE DE L'OUEST
CATALOGNE
RUE ALAIN
RUE GUILLEMINOT
RUE DE L'OUEST RUE DU CHÂTEAU R U E F R O I D E V A U X Rochereau R A S P A I L BLVD ARAGO RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT JACQUES
RUE RAYMOND
Denfert
R U E B O U L A R D
Pernety
LOSSERAND M A I N E
R U E D A G U E R R E
Saint
AVE DU GÉNÉRAL
Jacques
R U E L I A N C O U R T
Denfert
LECLERC
RUE MOUTON-DUVERNET
Mouton AVENUE RENÉ COTY Rochereau
Duvernet
176-177_EW_Paris.indd 176 03/04/17 10:49 am

P ARIS AREA B Y AREA  177

MONTPARNASSE

This historic area takes its name from the in these legendary cafés, and in art galleries
Mount Parnassus of Ancient Greece, the such as the Fondation Cartier, where the
home of Apollo, god of poetry and music. building is as much a work of art as the
After 1910, Paris’s artistic community moved exhibitions themselves. The Tour de
from Montmartre to Montparnasse, where Montparnasse offers panoramic views of the
they would frequent cafés such as La city, and Montparnasse Cemetery is the final
Closerie des Lilas and La Coupole. These days, resting place for some of the famous artists
Montparnasse has gone upmarket, but the and writers who gathered here, such as Jean-
intellectual and arty crowd still congregates Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and Man Ray.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Modern Architecture Restaurants see pp305–6
3 Rue Campagne-Première 5 Tour Montparnasse 1 L’Arbre de Sel
9 Notre-Dame du Travail Historic Cafés and Restaurants 2 L’Assiette
q Catacombes de Paris 1 La Coupole 3 La Cantine du Troquet
w Observatoire de Paris 4 La Cerisaie
e La Closerie des Lilas 5 Chez Marcel
Cemeteries 6 Le Dôme
4 Cimetière du Montparnasse 7 Le Jeu de Quilles
pp182–3 8 Moustache
Museums and Galleries 9 Le Parc aux Cerfs
10 Le Plomb du Cantal
2 Musée Zadkine 11 Le Sélect
6 Musée Antoine Bourdelle 12 Tavola di Gio
7 Musée de la Poste 13 Le Timbre
8 Institut Pasteur 14 Les Zazous
0 Fondation Cartier
See also Street Finder
V A U G I R A R D
maps 15–16 St-Placide
D E R E N N E S B O U L E V Notre-Dame-
des-Champs
R U E Montparnasse D E R U E
Bienvenüe
R U E 8 •13 RUE VAVIN
RUE STANISLAS
Falguière AVE DU MAINE PLACE MONTPARNASSE A R D R U
B O U L E V A R D
RUE DE
DU 18
RUE FALGUIERE MOISANT BIENVENUE RUE DU DEPART D'ODESSA RUE RUE DELAMBRE PICASSO RUE BREA E N O T R E D A M E D E S C H A M P S
Pasteur R ANTOINE BOURDELLE PLACE L'ARRIVEE JUIN 1940 R A S P A I L D ' A S S A S
DU D U
RUE
R LE VERRIER
Vavin
PLACE P
RUE ARMAND
RUE DU DR ROUX D'ARSONVAL BLVD DE VAUGIRARD Montparnasse LA GAITE Quinet EDGAR QUINET M O N T P A R N A S S E
R HUYGHENS
BLVD
Bienvenüe
Gare
Montparnasse
Edgar
RUE CAMPAGNE-
RUE
R U E F A L G U I È R E RU E ANDRÉ GIDE ATLANTIQUE RUE DU CDT RENE A V E N U E D U DE MONTPARNASSE Raspail B O U L E V A R D R U E B O I S S O N A D E Port Royal
PREMIERE
JARDIN
MOUCHOTTE
CIMETIERE DU
RUE
R U E E M I L E R I C H A R D
RUE DU COTENTIN
AVE DENFERT-ROCHEREAU
Gaîté
B O U L EVA R D P A S T E U R
PLACE DE RUE JEAN ZAY
RUE DE L'OUEST
CATALOGNE
RUE ALAIN
RUE GUILLEMINOT
RUE DE L'OUEST RUE DU CHÂTEAU R U E F R O I D E V A U X Rochereau R A S P A I L BLVD ARAGO RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT JACQUES
RUE RAYMOND
Denfert
R U E B O U L A R D
Pernety
LOSSERAND M A I N E
R U E D A G U E R R E
Saint
Jacques
R U E L I A N C O U R T
Denfert
LECLERC
0 metres 400 RUE MOUTON-DUVERNET AVE DU GÉNÉRAL AVENUE RENÉ COTY Rochereau
Mouton
Duvernet
0 yards 400
Bronze angel statue at the Cimetière du Montparnasse For keys to symbols see back flap
176-177_EW_Paris.indd 177 03/04/17 10:49 am

178  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Montparnasse

Renowned for its mix of art and high living,
Montparnasse continues to live up to its
name: Mount Parnassus was the mountain
dedicated by the ancient Greeks to Apollo,
god of poetry, music and beauty. That mix
was especially potent in the 1920s and 1930s,
when such artists and writers as Picasso,
Hemingway, Cocteau, Giacometti, Matisse
and Modigliani were to be seen in the local
bars, cafés and cabarets.


5 . Tour Montparnasse
One of Europe’s tallest tower blocks rests on 56
piles that extend 62 m (203 ft) below the surface.



Metro Edgar Quinet








4 . Cimetière du BLVD DU MONTPARNASSE
Montparnasse RUE DU DEPART
This fine sculpture, The RUE D’ ODESSA RUE DU MONTPARNASSE
Separation of a Couple
by De Max, stands in the
smallest of the city’s major
cemeteries.










RUE DE LA GAITE BLVD EDGAR QUINET











The Théâtre Montparnasse
at No. 31, has fully restored
original 1880s decor.




178-179_EW_Paris.indd 178 03/04/17 10:49 am

MONTP ARNASSE  179

Académie de la Grande-
Chaumière at No. 14 LUXEMBOURG
offers tuition in painting QUARTER
and sculpture. Former
students of note include
Alberto Giacometti and MONTPARNASSE
Amedeo Modigliani.


Locator Map
See Central Paris Map pp16–17
Rue Bréa has a
variety of shops,
restaurants and
hotels, all within
The statue of 90 m (300 ft).
Balzac by Auguste
Rodin was erected
in 1939, and stands
3 m (10 ft) tall.
1 . La Coupole
This traditional brasserie-
style café, with its large
enclosed terrace,
opened in 1927 and
became a famous
meeting place for
artists and writers. RUE BREA 3. Rue Campagne-
RUE J. CHAPLAIN RUE NOTRE DAME DES CHAMPS studios at No. 31 was
Première
The block of artists’
built in 1911, and
RUE DE LA GDE CHAUMIERE the façade was
BLVD DU MONTPARNASSE
decorated by
the ceramicist
Paul Bigot.
Metro Vavin





RUE HUYGHENS BLVD RASPAIL RUE LEOPOLD ROBERT


SQ DELAMBRE
BLVD EDGAR QUINET








0 metres 100
0 yards 100

Key
Metro Raspail Suggested route





178-179_EW_Paris.indd 179 03/04/17 10:49 am

180  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

1 La Coupole 5 Tour
102 Blvd du Montparnasse 75014. Montparnasse
Map 16 D2. Tel 01 43 20 14 20. 33 Ave du Maine 75014. Map 15 C2.
q Vavin, Montparnasse. Open q Montparnasse-Bienvenüe. Tel 01
8am–11pm daily (to midnight Sat & 45 38 52 56. Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–
Sun). See Where to Eat and Drink p305. 11:30pm daily; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–
10:30pm daily (to 11pm Fri & Sat); last
Established in 1927, this historic elevator 30 mins before closing. & 0
café-restaurant and dance hall - 8 ∑ tourmontparnasse56.com
underwent a face-lift in the
1980s. Its red velvet seats and This was Europe’s largest office
famous columns, decorated by block when it was built in 1973
various artists, have survived. as the focal point of a new
Among its clientele have been business sector. At 210 m (690 ft)
Jean-Paul Sartre, Josephine high, it totally dominates the
Baker and Roman Polanski. area’s skyline. The views from
the 56th floor are spectacular –
up to 40 km (25 miles) on a
2 Musée Zadkine clear day. The tower also has Panoramic view of Paris from the
Europe’s fastest lift (56 floors in 56th floor of Tour Montparnasse
100 bis Rue d’Assas 75116. Map 16 E1.
Tel 01 55 42 77 20. q Notre-Dame- 38 seconds) and a panoramic bar.
des-Champs. Open 10am–6pm Tue– Hall in an extension and include
Sun. Closed public hols. & 8 by 6 Musée Antoine the group of sculptures for the
appt, Tel 01 49 54 75 92. 7 limited. relief decoration of the Théâtre
∑ zadkine.paris.fr Bourdelle des Champs-Elysées.
18 Rue Antoine Bourdelle 75015.
The Russian-born sculptor Map 15 B1. Tel 01 49 54 73 73. 7 Musée de la
Ossip Zadkine lived here from q Montparnasse-Bienvenüe.
1928 until his death in 1967. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Poste
The small house, studio and Closed public hols. & 7 limited. 34 Blvd de Vaugirard 75015. Map 15 B2.
garden contain his works. ∑ bourdelle.paris.fr Tel 01 42 79 24 24 or 01 53 71 98 49.
Here he produced his great q Montparnasse-Bienvenüe.
commemorative sculpture, The prolific sculptor Antoine Closed for renovations until 2018;
Ville Détruite, commissioned by Bourdelle lived and worked in temporary exhibitions at various
Rotterdam after World War II, the studio here from 1884 until venues in Paris meanwhile, see
and two monuments to Vincent his death in 1929. The house, website. & 8 by appt. Library.
Van Gogh, one for Holland and studio and garden are now a ∑ ladressemuseedelaposte.fr
one for Auvers-sur-Oise, where museum devoted to his life and
Van Gogh died. The museum’s work. Among the 900 sculptures Every conceivable aspect of the
works span the development of on display are the original plaster history of the French postal
Zadkine’s style, from his Cubist casts of his monumental works service and methods of transport
beginnings to Expressionism planned for wide public squares. is covered in this well laid-out
and Abstractionism. They are housed in the Great collection. There is even a room
devoted to mail delivery in times
of war – carrier pigeons were
3 Rue Campagne- used during the Franco-Prussian
Première War with postmarks stamped
on their wings. Postage stamp
75014. Map 16 E2. q Raspail. art is displayed in the gallery.
This street has some interesting
Art Deco buildings and a long 8 Institut Pasteur
artistic tradition. Modigliani, 25–28 Rue du Docteur Roux 75015.
ravaged by opium and Map 15 A2. Tel 01 45 68 80 00.
tuberculosis, lived at No. 3 during q Pasteur. Open for tours only, 2–
his last years. Between the wars 5:30pm Mon–Fri. Closed Aug, public
many artists resided here, such as hols. & 8 2, 3 & 4pm; ID required.
Picasso, Joan Miró and Kandinsky. Tours of 10+ people: apply 3 months
in advance (01 45 68 82 83 or musee@
pasteur.fr). ^ = ∑ pasteur.fr
4 Cimetière du
Montparnasse The Institut Pasteur, France’s
Sculptures in the Great Hall of the leading medical research centre,
See pp182–3. Musée Antoine Bourdelle was founded by the scientist




180-181_EW_Paris.indd 180 03/04/17 10:56 am

MONTP ARNASSE  181


Louis Pasteur in 1888–9. He 0 Fondation Cartier w Observatoire
discovered the process of de Paris
milk pasteurization, as well as 261 Blvd Raspail 75014. Map 16 E3.
vaccines against rabies and Tel 01 42 18 56 50. q Raspail. Open 77 Ave Denfert-Rochereau 75014.
anthrax. The centre houses 11am–8pm Tue–Sun (to 10pm Tue). Map 16 E3. Tel 01 40 51 22 21 (2–4pm
a museum that includes a Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 ^ 8 Mon–Fri). q Denfert-Rochereau.
∑ fondation.cartier.com
reconstruction of Pasteur’s Closed to the public for revovations;
apartment and laboratory. This foundation for contem- call for latest details. & 8 visite.
It was designed by his grand- porary art is housed in a [email protected] ∑ obspm.fr
children (also scientists) and is building designed by architect
faithful to the original down to Jean Nouvel. He has created an In 1667 Louis XIV was
the last detail. Pasteur’s tomb is air of transparency and light, as persuaded by his scientists
in a basement crypt built in the well as incorporating a cedar and astronomers that France
style of a small Byzantine of Lebanon planted in 1823 needed a royal obser vatory.
chapel. The tomb of Dr Emile by François-René de Chateau- Building began on 21 June, the
Roux, who discovered the briand. The structure comple- day of summer solstice, and
treatment for diphtheria, is in ments the nature of the took five years to complete.
the garden. The institute has exhibitions of progressive art, One of the leading astronomy
laboratories for pure and which showcase personal, centres in the world, research
applied research, lecture group or thematic displays, undertaken here included the
theatres, a reference section, often including works by calculation of the exact
and a hospital established to young unknowns. dimensions of the solar system
apply Pasteur’s theories. There in 1672, calculations of the
is also a library – the institute’s q Catacombes de dimensions of longitude, the
original building from 1888 – mapping of the moon in 1679
where research into AIDS is Paris and the discovery of the planet
carried out, led by pioneering 1 Ave du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy Neptune in 1846.
Professor Luc Montagnier, who 75014. Map 16 E4. Tel 01 43 22 47 63.
discovered the HIV virus in 1983. q Denfert-Rochereau. Open 10am–
8:30pm Tue–Sun, booking strongly
9 Notre-Dame advised. Closed public hols. & 8
∑ catacombes.paris.fr
du Travail
In 1786 a monumental project
36 Rue Guilleminot 75014. Map 15 B3. began here: the removal of the
Tel 01 44 10 72 92. q Pernety. millions of skulls and bones
Open 7.30am–7.45pm Mon–Fri, from the unsanitary city
9am–7:30pm Sat, 8:30am–7:30pm Sun.
5 9am, 12:15pm, 7pm Mon–Fri (only cemetery in Les Halles to the
at 7pm on Wed during school hols); quarries at the base of the three
6:30pm Sat; 9am (in Portuguese), “mountains”: Montparnasse,
10:45am, 6pm Sun (in Latin). Montrouge and Montsouris. The façade of the Observatoire
∑ notredamedutravail.net During World War II, the
French Resistance set up its
This church dates from 1901 headquarters here. Above the e La Closerie des
and is made of an unusual mix door outside are the words “Stop! Lilas
of materials: stone, rubble and This is the empire of death.”
bricks over a riveted steel and 171 Blvd du Montparnasse 75014.
iron framework. It was the Map 16 E2. Tel 01 40 51 34 50.
q Vavin. W Port Royal. Open Piano
creation of Father Soulange-
Boudin, a priest who organized bar: 11–1:30am, restaurant: noon–
2:30pm & 7–11pm, brasserie: noon–
cooperatives and sought to 12:30am. ∑ closeriedeslilas.fr
reconcile labour and capitalism.
Local parishioners raised the Lenin, Trotsky, Hemingway and
money for its construction, but Scott Fitzgerald all frequented
lack of funds meant that many the Montparnasse bars, but the
features, such as the bell towers, Closerie was their favourite.
were never built. On the façade Much of Hemingway’s novel
hangs the Sebastopol Bell, a The Sun Also Rises takes place
trophy from the Crimean War here– he wrote it on the terrace
given to the people of the in just six weeks. Today the
Plaisance district by Napoleon III. terrace is ringed with trees and
The Art Nouveau interior has the area is more elegant than
been completely restored and Skulls and bones stored in the Catacombes in the 1920s, but much of the
features paintings of saints. de Paris original decor remains.



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182  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

4 Cimetière du Montparnasse

The Montparnasse Cemetery was planned by . Charles
Napoleon outside the city walls to replace the Baudelaire
numerous, congested small cemeteries within Cenotaph
the old city, viewed as a health hazard at the This is a monument
turn of the 19th century. It was opened in to the great poet
and critic (1821–67),
1824 and became the resting place of many author of The Flowers
illustrious Parisians, particularly Left Bank of Evil.
personalities. Like all French cemeteries, it is
divided into rigidly aligned paths forming
blocks or divisions. The Rue Emile Richard
cuts it into two parts, the Grand Cimetière
and the Petit Cimetière.
AVE DU MIDI










. Charles Pigeon Family Tomb AVE THIERRY AVE DE L’ EST
This wonderfully pompous Belle Epoque tomb
depicts the French industrialist and inventor in RUE EMILE RICHARD
bed with his wife.

KEY
1 Charles-Augustin Sainte-Beuve 8 The Tower is all that remains of a
was a critic of the French Romantic 17th-century windmill. It was part of
generation, and is generally the old property of the Brothers of
described as the “father of Charity on which the cemetery
modern criticism”. was built.
2 André Citroën, an engineer and 9 Tristen Tzara, the Romanian
industrialist who died in 1935, writer, was leader of the literary and
founded the famous French car firm. artistic Dada movement in Paris in
3 Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi was the 1920s.
the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty 0 Man Ray was an American
(1886) in New York. photographer who immortalized the
4 Alfred Dreyfus was a Jewish Montparnasse artistic and café scene
army officer whose unjust trial for in the 1920s and 1930s.
treason in 1894 provoked a political q Charles Baudelaire, the
and social scandal. 19th-century poet, is buried here in
5 The Pétain family tomb his detested stepfather’s family tomb,
contains the wife of the marshal who along with his beloved mother.
collaborated with the Germans w Chaïm Soutine, a poor Jewish
during World War II. Pétain himself Lithuanian, was a Montparnasse
is buried on Ile d’Yeu, where he Bohemian painter of the 1920s.
was imprisoned. He was a friend of the Italian The Kiss by Brancusi
6 Guy de Maupassant was a artist Modigliani. This is the famous
Primitivo-Cubist
19th-century novelist. e Camille Saint-Saëns, the pianist, sculpture (a response
7 Samuel Beckett, the great Irish organist and composer who died in to Rodin’s Kiss) by the
playwright renowned for Waiting for 1921, was one of France’s great post- great Romanian artist,
Godot, spent most of his life in Paris. Romantic musicians. who died in 1957 and
He died in 1989. is buried just off the
Rue Emile Richard.



182-183_EW_Paris.indd 182 03/04/17 10:56 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight history template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 26th July 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

MONTP ARNASSE  183


. Serge VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Gainsbourg
The French singer, Practical Information
composer and 3 Blvd Edgar Quinet.
pop icon of the Map 16 D3.
1970s and 1980s Tel 01 44 10 86 50.
is best known for Open Mid-Mar–mid-Nov:
his wistful and 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–6pm
irreverent songs. Sat, 9am–6pm Sun; mid-Nov–
He was married mid-Mar closes 5:30pm. & 7
to the actress
Jane Birkin. Transport
q Edgar Quinet. @ 28, 58,
68, 82, 83, 88, 91 to Port Royal.
W Port Royal. h Rue Campagne-
Première, Blvd St-Jacques.

AVE DU MIDI




ALLEE RAFFET Génie du
Sommeil
Eternel
Horace Daillion’s
AVE DE L’ EST
wistful bronze
Angel of Eternal
AVE TRANSVERSALE
Sleep (1902) is
the cemetery’s
centrepiece.
ALLEE LENOIR
AVE DE L’OUEST




AVE DU NORD


Henri Laurens
The French sculptor
AVE PRINCIPALE
AVE DU BOULEVARD (1885 –1954) was a leading
figure in the Cubist movement.
Jean Seberg
The Hollywood actress, chosen by
Jean-Luc Godard as the star for his
film A Bout de Souffle, was the
epitome of American blonde
beauty, youth and candour.


. Jean-Paul Sartre and
Simone de Beauvoir
The famous existentialist couple,
undisputed leaders of the post-war
literary scene, lie here close to their
Left Bank haunts.




182-183_EW_Paris.indd 183 03/04/17 10:56 am

Alexandre III Pont
S e i n e Pont de la Concorde
Pont des
Invalides
L’Alma
Pont de
Q U A I B R A N L Y Pont de Q U AI D’ORS AY M. GALLIENI QUAI D’ORSAY
Invalides
Debilly
Passerelle
l'Alma
Tour
Eiffel R U E D E L ’ U N I V E R S I T E Invalides Assemblée
Port de la R DE L’UNIVERSITE PP RA A V E N U E BLVD DE LA TOUR MAUBOURG INVALIDES Nationale BLVD
Bourdonnais R U E S A I N T D O M I N I Q U E
QUAI BRANLY ALLEE P. DESCHANEL RU E Maubourg BOURGOGNE LAS CASES GERMAIN
Pont AVENUE RUE SAINT DOMINIQUE DU SAINT
Pont d’Iéna
d'Iéna RUE Solférino
AVE
La Tour
DE
AVENUE
Champ de Mars - AVENUE R U E D E G R E N E L L E I N V A L I D E S Varenne BELLECHASSE Rue du
C L E R
Bac
Tour Eiffel BOUVARD R U E RUE R UE DE G R ENE LL E
B O S Q U E T
DE
R DUVIVIER
J PIERRE AVE EMILE DESCHANEL AVE DE LA MOTTE PICQUET RUE
AVE CHARLES RISLER FRANCE Militaire AVE DUQUESNE B O U L E V A R D RUE BARBET DE JOUY D E R UE V A N E A U V A R E N N E BAC DU BOULEVARD RASPAIL
AVENUE
AVE D E S
AVENUE DE LA BOURDONNAIS
ANATOLE
A V E N U E
AVENUE DE TOURVILLE
D E
Ecole
CHARLES
LOTI
Sèvres
AVENUE DE LOWENDAL D E S E G U R R U E D E B A B Y L O N E RUE Babylone
S U F F R E N
FLOQUET
A V E N U E
300m
AVE DE SUFFREN
400m
184-185_EW_Paris.indd 184 03/04/17 10:49 am

P ARIS AREA B Y AREA  185

INVALIDES AND EIFFEL
TOWER QUARTER

On the Left Bank of the Seine, this quarter Hôtel des Invalides, with its stunning golden
in the 7th arrondissement is full of splendid dome, a major landmark. Built as a military
government buildings: members of hospital and home for French war veterans,
Parliament make laws in the Assemblée it now houses Napoleon’s tomb and several
Nationale Palais-Bourbon, modelled on the military history museums. But the reason
Grand Trianon de Versailles, while the Prime most people visit the area is to ascend the
Minister lives in the elegant Hôtel Matignon. Eiffel Tower, which also provides a spectacular
The government theme continues with the light show every night.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Church and Temples Restaurants see pp302–3
6 Hôtel des Invalides 1 Dôme des Invalides pp188–9 1 L’Affable
8 Hôtel Matignon 2 St-Louis-des-Invalides 2 L’Affriolé
9 Le Bon Marché q Sainte-Clotilde 3 L’Ami Jean
w Assemblée Nationale Modern Architecture 4 L’Arpège
Palais-Bourbon 5 La Billebaude
e Rue Cler p UNESCO 6 Au Bon Accueil
y Champ-de-Mars Monuments and Fountains 7 Café Constant
i No. 29 Avenue Rapp u Eiffel Tower pp196–7 8 Les Cocottes de Christian
o Ecole Militaire Museums and Galleries Constant
3 Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération 9 Coutume
10 David Toutain
4 Musée de l’Armée 11 Le Florimond
5 Musée des Plans-Reliefs 12 La Fontaine de Mars
7 Musée Rodin 13 Le Jules Verne
0 Musée Maillol 14 Pasco
r Musée des Egouts 15 Au Petit Sud Ouest
t Musée du quai Branly pp194–5 16 Le Troquet
17 La Villa Corse
See also Street Finder
maps 10, 11
S e i n e Invalides Pont des Pont Alexandre III Pont de la Concorde
Pont de
L’Alma
Q U A I B R A N L Y Pont de Q UAI D ’O RSA Y M. GALLIENI QUAI D’ORSAY
Invalides
Debilly
Passerelle
l'Alma
Tour
Eiffel RAPP R U E D E L ’ U N I V E R S I T E Invalides Assemblée
Port de la R DE L’UNIVERSITE A V E N U E BLVD DE LA TOUR MAUBOURG INVALIDES Nationale BLVD
Bourdonnais R U E S A I N T D O M I N I Q U E
QUAI BRANLY ALLEE P. DESCHANEL R U E La Tour AVE BOURGOGNE LAS CASES GERMAIN
Pont d’Iéna
Pont AVENUE RUE SAINT DOMINIQUE DU SAINT
d'Iéna RUE Solférino
Maubourg
DE
AVENUE
Champ de Mars - AVENUE R U E D E G R E N E L L E I N V A L I D E S Varenne BELLECHASSE Rue du
C L E R
Bac
Tour Eiffel BOUVARD R U E RUE R UE D E G R ENE LL E
B O S Q U E T
DE
R DUVIVIER
J PIERRE AVE EMILE DESCHANEL AVE DE LA MOTTE PICQUET RUE
AVE CHARLES RISLER FRANCE Militaire AVE DUQUESNE B O U L E V A R D RUE BARBET DE JOUY D E RUE VANEAU V A R E N N E BAC DU BOULEVARD RASPAIL
AVENUE
AVE D E S
AVENUE DE LA BOURDONNAIS
ANATOLE
A V E N U E
D E
AVENUE DE TOURVILLE
Ecole
CHARLES
LOTI
Sèvres
AVENUE DE LOWENDAL D E S E G U R R U E D E B A B Y L O N E RUE Babylone
S U F F R E N
FLOQUET
A V E N U E 0 metres 500
300m
AVE DE SUFFREN
400m 0 yards 500
The Eiffel Tower in the Champs-de-Mars For keys to symbols see back flap
184-185_EW_Paris.indd 185 03/04/17 10:49 am

186  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Invalides

The imposing Hôtel des Invalides, from which the area takes its
name, was built from 1671 to 1676 by Louis XIV for his wounded
and homeless veterans and as a monument to his own glory. At
its centre, the glittering golden roof of the Sun King’s Dôme des
Invalides marks the final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte. General de Gaulle’s
The emperor’s body was brought here from St Helena in 1840, Liberation Order and compass
19 years after he died, and placed inside the majestic Metro La Tour
sarcophagus, designed by Joachim Visconti, that lies at the Maubourg
centre of the Dôme’s circular glass-topped crypt. Just to the
east of the Hôtel on the corner of the Boulevard des Invalides, PL DES INV ALIDES
the superb Musée Rodin offers artistic relief from the pomp
and circumstance of the surrounding area.

The façade of the Hôtel is 196 m (645 ft) long A V E D E L A M O T T E
and is topped by dormer windows, each P I C Q U E T
decorated in the shape of a different trophy. A
head of Hercules sits above the central entrance.









4. Musée de l’Armée
This vast museum covers military
history from the Stone Age to World
War II. It contains the third-largest
collection of armoury in the world.



3 Musée de l’Ordre
de la Libération
The Order was set up to
honour feats of heroism
during World War II.

2. St-Louis-des-Invalides
From St-Louis, the soldier’s A VE DE T OUR VILLE
chapel, it is possible to
see into the Dôme, which
was built as Louis XIV’s
private chapel. A V
E
D
R E
O V
G I
E L
S L
A
E R
D S

E
A V
0 metres 100
0 yards 100

186-187_EW_Paris.indd 186 25/04/16 4:18 pm

INV ALIDES AND EIFFEL T OWER QU AR TER  187



CHAMPS-ELYSEES
CHAILLOT TUILERIES
QUARTER QUARTER
S e i n e
INVALIDES
AND EIFFEL
TOWER
QUARTER
6 Hôtel des Invalides Locator Map
After the two World Wars, Louis XIV’s Hôtel See Central Paris Map pp16–17
was returned to its original use
as a hospital for veterans.
PL DES INV ALIDES
Key
Suggested route
Metro Varenne
R U E D E G R E N E L L E










The Invalides gardens were designed by
S de Cotte in 1704 and are lined by bronze
E
D cannons from the 17th and 18th centuries.
I
L
A
V 5 Musées des Plans-Reliefs
N
I This museum contains military models

S of forts and towns, as well as a display
E on model-making.
D

D
V
L
B
7. Musée Rodin
By the time he died
in 1917, Auguste
Rodin had revolu-
tionized the art of
sculpture. All his
key works, including
The Thinker (c.1880),
are on display.
A V
E

The Cour d’Honneur is still used
D
E
for military parades. Seurre’s statue
V
of Napoleon, known as the Little
I
L
Corporal, stands above the south side.
L A
R
S
1. Dôme des Invalides and Napoleon’s Tomb
The Dôme took 27 years to build. In the crypt lies
Napoleon, whose final wish was to have his ashes
“rest on the banks of the Seine” .
186-187_EW_Paris.indd 187 25/04/16 4:18 pm

188  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

1 Dôme des Invalides

Jules Hardouin-Mansart was asked in 1676 by
the Sun King, Louis XIV, to build the Dôme des
Invalides among the existing buildings of the
Invalides military complex. A soldiers’ church
had already been built, but the Dôme was to be
reserved for the exclusive use of the Sun King
and for the location of royal tombs. The resulting
masterpiece complements the surrounding
buildings and is one of the greatest examples
of 17th-century French architecture. Gilded Dome
After Louis XIV’s death, plans to bury the royal The cupola was
family in the church were abandoned, and it first gilded in 1706.
became a monument to Bourbon glory. In 1840
Louis-Philippe decided to install Napoleon’s
remains in the crypt, and the addition of the
tombs of Vauban, Marshal Foch and other figures
of military prominence have since turned this
church into a French military memorial.












1 Tomb of Joseph Bonaparte
The sarcophagus of Napoleon’s older
brother, the King of Naples and later
of Spain, is in the side chapel to the
right as visitors enter.

Key

Tour route


Main
entrance





2 Memorial to Vauban
Commissioned by Napoleon I in 1808, this contains an
urn with Sébastien le Prestre de Vauban’s heart. He was
Louis XIV’s great military architect and engineer who
died in 1707. His long military career culminated in
his appointment as Marshal of France in 1703. He
revolutionized siege warfare when he introduced his
ricochet-batteries. His reclining figure by Antoine Etex
lies on top of the memorial, mourned by Science and War.




188-189_EW_Paris.indd 188 03/04/17 10:56 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 3rd September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

INV ALIDES AND EIFFEL T OWER QU AR TER  189


6 Glass Gallery
Access to the glass-topped crypt VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
containing Napoleon’s tomb is Practical Information
by the curved stairs in front of 6 Blvd des Invalides, Esplanade des
the altar. The glass partition Invalides. Map 11 A4. Tel 08 10 11
behind the altar separates the 33 99. Hôtel National des Invalides:
Dôme from the older Invalides Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily
chapel beyond. (Jul & Aug: to 7pm; Apr–Sep: to
9pm Tue); Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm
daily. Closed 1st Mon of month, 1
Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 7 limited
(01 47 05 36 47). 8 groups. -
= ∑ musee-armee.fr
Transport
q La Tour-Maubourg, Varenne.
@ 28, 63, 69, 80, 82, 83, 87, 92, 93
to Les Invalides. W Invalides. x
Tour Eiffel. h Rue de Constan tine.

5 St Jérôme’s Chapel
Passing across the centre of the church,
the side chapel to the left of the main
entrance contains the tomb of Napoleon’s
younger brother, Jérôme, King of
Westphalia, presenting his sword to Christ.





Stairs to crypt





4 Dôme Ceiling
Looking upwards, Charles de
la Fosse’s circular painting
(1692) on the ceiling shows the
Glory of Paradise, with Saint Louis
presenting his sword to Christ.


Napoleon’s Return
King Louis-Philippe decided to bring the Emperor
Napoleon’s body back from St Helena (see pp34–5) as a
gesture of reconciliation to the Republican and Bonapartist
parties contesting his regime. The Dôme des Invalides, with
its historical and military
associations, was an
obvious choice for
Napoleon’s final resting
place. His body was
encased in six coffins and
finally placed in the crypt in
1861, in the culmination of
a grand ceremony which
was attended by
Napoleon III.
3 Tomb of Marshal Foch
Ferdinand Foch’s imposing bronze tomb
was built by Paul Landowski in 1937.




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leader, General Charles de The Département Moderne
Gaulle. The Order of Liberation is in two parts: the first (1648–
was created by de Gaulle in 1792) covers the reign of Louis
1940. It is France’s highest XIV, while the second (1792–
honour and was bestowed on 1871) displays a collection
those who made an outstand- of Napoleon’s mementos.
ing contribution to the final Items include his famous
victory in World War II. frock coat and felt hats,
Among the recipients of the as well as his stuffed dog.
honour are French civilians and
members of the armed forces,
plus some overseas leaders
such as King George VI,
Winston Churchill and
Dwight Eisenhower.
The impressive altar of St-Louis-des-Invalides
2 St-Louis-des- 4 Musée de l’Armée
Invalides Hôtel des Invalides, 129 Rue de
Hôtel des Invalides, 129 Rue de Grenelle/6 Blvd des Invalides 75007.
Grenelle/6 Blvd des Invalides 75007. Map 11 A3. Tel 08 10 11 33 99. q La
Map 11 A3. q La Tour-Maubourg, Tour-Maubourg, Varenne. W Invalides.
Varenne. W Invalides. Tel 08 10 11 33 Open 10am–6pm (to 9pm Tue) daily
99/01 44 42 38 77. Open 10am–6pm (Nov–Mar: to 5pm; last adm: 30 min A map of Alessandria, Italy (1813)
daily (Nov–Mar: to 5pm). Closed 1 Jan, before closing time). Times may vary;
1 May, 25 Dec. ∑ musee-armee.fr check website ahead of visit. Closed 5 Musée des
1st Mon of month (except Jul, Aug, Plans-Reliefs
The “soldiers’ church” was built Sep), 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (Ticket
includes entry to the Musée de l’Ordre
1679–1708 by Jules Hardouin- de la Libération and the Musée des Hôtel des Invalides 75007. Map 11
Mansart from the original designs Plans-Reliefs.) 7 ground floor only. A3. Tel 01 45 51 95 05 or 01 45 51 92
45. q La Tour-Maubourg, Varenne.
by Libéral Bruand. The imposing, 8 - = Film. ∑ musee-armee.fr W Invalides. Open 10am–6pm
but stark, interior is decorated (Nov–Mar: 5pm) daily. Closed 1st
with banners seized in battle. This is one of the most Mon of month (except Jul, Aug, Sep),
The first performance of Berlioz’s comprehensive museums of 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov, 25 Dec. & =
Requiem was given on the fine military history in the world, ∑ museedesplansreliefs.culture.fr
17th-century organ in 1837, with exhibits ranging from the
with an orchestra accompanied Stone Age to the final days of The detailed models of French
by a battery of outside artillery. World War II. forts and fortified towns, some
Situated in the northeast dating back to Louis XIV’s reign,
3 Musée de l’Ordre refectory, the Ancient Armoury were considered top secret until
the 1950s, when they were put
department is worth visiting for
de la Libération the collection on display, one on public display. The oldest
Hôtel des Invalides, 129 Rue de of the largest in the world, as model is that of Perpignan,
Grenelle/Place Vauban 75007. Map 11 much as for the 17th-century dating to 1686. It shows the
A3. Tel 01 47 05 04 10. q La Tour- murals by Joseph Parrocel adorn- fortifications drawn up by
Maubourg. Open Apr–Oct: 10am– ing the walls. These celebrate the legendary 17th-century
6pm daily (to 9pm Tue); Nov–Mar: Louis XIV’s military conquests. military architect Vauban,
10am–5pm daily. Closed 1st Mon of The life of Charles de Gaulle who built the defences
month, public hols. & 8 and his role in World War II are around several French
∑ ordredelaliberation.fr documented in the Historial towns, including Briançon.
de Gaulle, a film and
This museum is devoted to the multimedia attraction The façade of the Musée de
wartime Free French and their (closed on Mondays). l’Ordre de la Libération














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INV ALIDES AND EIFFEL T OWER QU AR TER  191


of the 19th century, lived and diplomat who held legendary
worked in the elegant Hôtel parties here, and several
Biron from 1908 until his death members of the nobility. It
in 1917. In return for a state- has been the official residence
owned flat and studio, Rodin of the French Prime Minister
agreed to leave his work to the since 1958 and has the largest
nation. Some 300 works from private garden in Paris.
Rodin’s collection can now be
seen in the museum. The garden
consists of a rose garden, an 9 Le Bon Marché
ornamental garden and a 24 Rue de Sèvres 75007. Map 11 C5.
relaxation area with benches, and Tel 01 44 39 80 00. q Sèvres-
contains some of Rodin’s most Babylone. Open 10am–8pm
celebrated sculptures: The Thinker, Mon–Sat (to 8:45pm Thu & Fri).
The Burghers of Calais, The Gates ∑ lebonmarche.com
of Hell and Balzac. Spread across
The Invalides main entrance 18 rooms, the museum combines Welcoming as many as 15,000
a chronology of Rodin’s creative customers per day, “The Good
6 Hôtel des development with a thematic Market” (or “The Good Deal”) is
Invalides exploration of his workshop. It the swankiest department store
has even re-created a space in Paris, selling luxury goods
6 Blvd des Invalides, Esplanade des exactly as it was when Rodin and gourmet foods. It is also
Invalides 75007. Map 11 A3. Tel 08 10 lived and worked here. the world’s oldest department
11 33 99. q La Tour-Maubourg, store, founded in 1852 by
Varenne. Open 7:30am–7pm daily Aristide Boucicaut and his
(Apr–Sep: to 9pm Tue). Last adm: 8 Hôtel Matignon wife. The Boucicauts used their
15 min before closing. Closed 1 Jan, keen sense of commerce to
1 May, 25 Dec. & 8 57 Rue de Varenne 75007. Map 11 C4.
∑ musee-armee.fr Tel 01 42 75 80 00. q Solférino, Rue introduce innovative practices –
du Bac. Closed to the public, but fixed prices, sales, home
Founded by Louis XIV, this was garden open to public 1st Sat of delivery, advertising and
the first military hospital and each month. guarantees – that became the
home for French war veterans standard for other grands
and disabled soldiers who had One of the most beautiful magasins. Designed by Louis-
hitherto been reduced to mansions in the Faubourg Charles Boileau and Gustave
begging. The decree for building area, this was built by Jean Eiffel, the Bon Marché is also
this vast complex was signed in Courtonne in 1721 and has an architectural landmark.
1670, and construction, following been substantially remodelled
the designs of Libéral Bruand, since. Former owners include
was finished five years later. Talleyrand, the statesman and 0 Musée Maillol
Today, the Classical façade is
one of the most impressive sights 59/61 Rue de Grenelle 75007. Map 11
in Paris, with its four storeys, C4. Tel 01 42 22 59 58. q Sèvres-
Babylone, Rue du Bac. Open
cannon in the fore court, garden 10:30am–6:30pm daily (to 9:30pm Fri).
and tree-lined esplanade stretch- Closed lunchtime; 1 Jan, 25 Dec. 7
ing to the Seine. The south side - = & ∑ museemaillol.com
leads to St-Louis-des-Invalides,
the soldiers’ church, which Once the home of novelist
backs on to the magnifi cent Alfred de Musset, this museum
Dôme des Invalides of Jules was created by Dina Vierny,
Hardouin-Mansart. The dome former model of Aristide
was regilded in 1989. Maillol. All aspects of the
artist’s work are here:
drawings, engravings,
7 Musée Rodin paintings, sculpture and
decorative objects.
79 Rue de Varenne 75007. Map 11 B3.
Tel 01 44 18 61 10. q Varenne. Also displayed is Vierny’s
Open 10am–5:45pm Tue–Sun (to private collection,
8:45pm Wed). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, including works by Matisse,
25 Dec. & 7 restricted. - = Picasso and Rodin.
8 occas. ∑ musee-rodin.fr Large allegorical figures
of the city of Paris and the
Auguste Rodin, widely four seasons decorate
regarded as one of the Bouchardon’s fountain
greatest French sculptors Rodin’s The Kiss (1886) at the Musée Rodin in front of the house.




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q Sainte-Clotilde
12 Rue de Martignac 75007. Map 11
B3. Tel 01 44 18 62 60. q Solférino,
Varenne, Invalides. Open 9am–7:30pm
Mon–Fri, 10am–8pm Sat & Sun. Times
vary for Jul & Aug; check website.
Closed non-religious public hols.
5 = ∑ sainte-clothilde.com
Designed by the German-born
architect François-Christian
Gau and the first of its kind
to be built in Paris, this Neo- Neo-Classical façade of the Assemblée Nationale Palais-Bourbon
Gothic church was inspired
by the mid-19th-century columns was added in 1806, r Musée des
enthusiasm for the Middle partly to mirror the façade of La Egouts
Ages, made fashion able by Madeleine church facing it
such writers as Victor Hugo. across the Seine. The adjacent Pont Alma, Right Bank, opposite 93
The church is noted for its Hôtel de Lassay is the residence Quai d’Orsay 75007. Map 10 F2. Tel 01
imposing twin towers, visible of the president of the National 53 68 27 81. q Alma-Marceau. W
Pont de l’Alma. Open Oct–Apr: 11am–
from across the Seine. The Assembly. Group tours can 5pm Sat–Wed (until 6pm from May–
interior inc ludes sculpted be organized for a maximum Sep). Last adm 1 hr before closing.
stations of the cross by James of 50 people on the invitation Closed 1 Jan, 2 wks Jan, 25 Dec. & 8
Pradier and stained-glass of a member of parliament, with
windows. The composer several months' prior notice. One of Baron Haussmann’s
César Franck was the finest achievements, the
organist here for 32 years. major ity of Paris’s sewers
e Rue Cler (égouts) date from the Second
Empire (see pp36–7). If laid
75007. Map 10 F3. q Ecole-Militaire,
La Tour-Maubourg. Market: Open all end to end, the 2,100 km
day Tue–Sat & Sun am. See Shops and (1,300 miles) of sewers would
Markets p330 stretch from Paris to Istanbul.
In the 20th century, the sewers
This is the street market of the became a popular attraction.
7th arrondissement, the richest All tours explain the history of
in Paris. The bulk of senior civil the sewers. They are limited to
servants, wealthy expatriates, a small area around the Quai
Sculptured figures at Sainte-Clotilde business leaders and many d’Orsay entrance and are on
diplomats live in this residential foot (the sewers may close
neighbourhood. The market after heavy rain). Be aware that
w Assemblée area occupies a cobblestone they can be dangerous to
Nationale Palais- pedestrian precinct stretching explore on your own.
Bourbon south from the Rue de Grenelle.
Popular with locals, the colourful
126 Rue de l’Université 75007. market is frequented by the best- t Musée du quai
Map 11 B2. Tel 01 40 63 60 00. dressed shoppers in town. The Branly
q Assemblée-Nationale. W Invalides. produce is excellent, especially
Closed Individual guided visits are the pâtisseries and cheese shops. See pp194–5.
suspended indefinitely; call 01 40 63
56 00 for further details. = 8
∑ assemblee-nationale.fr
Built in 1722 for the Duchesse
de Bourbon, daughter of
Louis XIV, the Palais-Bourbon
was confisca ted during the
Revolution. It has been home
to the lower house of the
French Parliament since 1830.
During World War II, the
palace became the Nazi
administration’s seat of
government. The grand Neo-
Classical façade with its fine The fruit and vegetable market in the Rue Cler




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INV ALIDES AND EIFFEL T OWER QU AR TER  193


o Ecole Militaire
1 Pl Joffre 75007. Map 10 F4. Tel 01 80
50 14 00. q Ecole-Militaire. Closed
Visits are suspended indefinitely; call
for up-to-date information.
Founded in 1751 to educate 500
sons of impoverished officers,
the Royal Military Academy was
designed by architect Jacques-
Ange Gabriel. The central
pavilion, a magnificent example
of the French Classical style,
has eight Corinthian pillars
and a quadrangular dome.
The interior is decorated in
Louis XVI style; of main interest
are the chapel and a Gabriel-
designed wrought-iron banister
on the main staircase.
An early cadet was Napoleon,
whose passing-out report
Doorway at No. 29 Avenue Rapp stated that “he could go far
if the circumstances are right”.
y Champ-de-Mars i No. 29 Avenue Today, the academy is used
75007. Map 10 E3. q Ecole-Militaire. Rapp as a cavalry training ground.
W Champ-de-Mars–Tour-Eiffel.
75007. Map 10 E2. q Pont-de-l’Alma.
The gardens stretching from p UNESCO
the Eiffel Tower to the Ecole A superb example of Art 7 Pl de Fontenoy 75007. Map 10 F5.
Militaire were originally a Nouveau architecture can Tel 01 45 68 10 00, 01 45 68 10 60 (in
parade ground for the officer be found at No. 29 Avenue English). q Ségur, Cambronne. Open
cadets of the Ecole Militaire. Rapp. This building won its to groups only, by guided tour: 10am
The area has since been used designer, architect Jules & 3pm Tue–Fri. Booking essential:
for horse-racing, balloon ascents Lavirotte, the first prize at the [email protected] & Closed public
and the mass celebrations for Concours des Façades de la hols; Sat & Sun. 7 0 by reservation.
14 July, the anniversary of the Ville de Paris in 1901. Its = Exhibitions, films. ∑ unesco.org
Revolution. The first ceremony ceramics and brickwork are
was held in 1790 in the elaborately decorated with This modern building completed
presence of a glum, captive animal and flower motifs in 1958 is the headquarters of
Louis XVI. Vast exhibitions were intermingling with female the United Nations Educational,
held here in the late 19th figures. These are super- Scientific and Cultural
century, including the 1889 imposed on a multicoloured Organization (UNESCO). The
World Fair for which the Eiffel sandstone base to produce a organization’s stated aim is to
Tower was erected. Le Mur de façade that is deliberately contribute to international
la Paix, Jean-Michel Wilmotte’s erotic, and was certainly peace and security through
monument to world peace, subversive in its day. education, science and culture.
stands at one end. Also worth visiting is another It is a trove of modern art,
These days, the park is of Lavirotte's buildings, which notably a huge mural by Picasso
popular with Parisian families can be found at No. 3 Square and sculptures by Henry Moore.
and tourists, who come here Rapp – this is more restrained
to relax, walk their dogs but has a lovely watchtower Moore’s Reclining
(Champ-de-Mars is one of and wrought iron balconies. Figure at UNESCO
the few parks in Paris where (erected 1958)
dogs are allowed) and to
participate in the numerous
activities for children, which
include playgrounds, pony rides,
puppet shows and a carousel.
There is also an outdoor café.
u Eiffel Tower
See pp196–7.




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194  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

t Musée du quai Branly

Widely regarded as former President Jacques
Chirac’s legacy to Paris’s cultural scene, quai
Branly has proved a major tourist pull since
it opened in 2006. The stylish Jean Nouvel
building displays 3,500 exhibits from the French
state’s vast non-Western art collection, one of
the world’s most prolific. Outside, the grounds
offer visitors breathing space and in summer
the museum’s 500-seat auditorium opens onto
an outdoor theatre for music and dance. The
rooftop restaurant boasts breathtaking views. Interior
Subdued natural light creates intimacy,
while an undulating open-plan design
reflects the diversity and convergence
of different cultures.
Scarecrow (Vietnam)
This bamboo scarecrow is used by hill
minorities in Southeast Asia to protect
the rice fields. It is adorned with
powerful and protective
designs like the central
“solar” symbol.





Musical instrument
tower


















Collection of Slit Drums
(Vanuatu, mid-20th century) Used
for dance and transmitting messages,
these vertical drums produce different Ticket
sounds depending on the thickness Ramp to main desks and
of the slit cut into them. collection entrance


Sculpted Hook (Papua New Guinea,
early 20th century)
Tribal men would hang ritual offerings
on the hook protruding from this
sculpted female figure.




194-195_EW_Paris.indd 194 03/04/17 10:56 am
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(Source v2)
Date 3rd September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

INV ALIDES AND EIFFEL T OWER QU AR TER  195

Head Trophy
(Nigeria, 20th century) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Ekoi tribes transformed their
enemies’ heads into war trophies, Practical Information
decorating them with wooden 37 Quai Branly. Map 10 E2.
horns and antelope skins. Tel 01 56 61 70 00.
Open 11am–7pm Tue, Wed &
Sun, 11am–9pm Thu–Sat.
Closed Mon (except during all
school hols besides summer
Mezzanine Different-sized hols), 1 Jan, 25 Dec. 7 & 8
0 - = Exhibitions, film,
level display boxes library, theatre. ∑ quaibranly.fr
Boxes jut out
of the building Transport
façade, lending it q Alma-Marceau, Bir-Hakeim,
a unique shape. Iéna. @ 42, 63, 72, 80, 82, 92.
W Pont de l’Alma.




. Androgynous Statue
(Mali, 10–11th century)
This 1.91 m (6 ft 3 in)
wooden statue combines a
regal male head with the
breasts of a fertile woman.
The bracelets worn around
the wrist total seven, the
number of perfect union.

Main collection
Ramp from level
entrance level

Gallery Guide
Tickets are bought outside the
main building. Once inside,
visitors take a 180-m (590-ft) Yup’ik Mask
ramp that spirals up around a (Alaska)
large glass tower displaying the This shaman mask
museum’s reserve of musical represents the spirit
instruments. This leads to the of the Moon and
is used in dances
main collection level, where performed inside
a suggested route passes the communal
through four colour-coded men’s house.
zones of Oceania, Asia, Africa
and the Americas. There are
stairs from the main collection
level to the three mezzanine
galleries, all of which house
temporary exhibitions.

Key to Floorplan
Asia
Africa
The Americas
Oceania . Museum Architecture
Temporary exhibition space Set on pillars above the verdant museum gardens, architect Jean
Nouvel’s elegant building resembles the elongated shadow of the
Musical instrument tower nearby Eiffel Tower. An exterior glass wall and thickets of trees help
Non-exhibition space shield the museum from the outside world.




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196  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

u Eiffel Tower

Originally built to impress visitors to the 1889 Universal
Exhibition, the Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) was meant to be
a temporary addition to the Paris skyline. Built by the
engineer Gustave Eiffel, it was fiercely decried by 19th-
century aesthetes. The author Guy de Maupassant
lunched there to avoid seeing it. The world’s tallest
structure until 1931, when New York’s Empire State
Building was completed, the tower is now the symbol
of Paris and attracts 7 million visitors a year. The glass-
floored first level houses a modern visitors’ centre and an
interactive museum chronicling the history of the tower.

Lift Engine
Room Ironwork Pattern
Eiffel emphasized According to Eiffel, the complex
safety over speed pattern of wrought-iron girders
when choosing came from the need to stabilize the
the lifts for tower in strong winds. But Eiffel’s
the tower. design quickly won admirers for
its pleasing symmetry.




The Daring and the Deluded
The tower has inspired many crazy stunts.
It has been climbed by mountaineers,
cycled down by a journalist, and used
by trapeze artists and as a launch
pad by parachutists. In 1912,
an Austrian tailor, Franz
Reichelt, attempted to fly from
the parapet with only a modified
cape for wings. He plunged to his . Hydraulic Lift Mechanism
death in front of a large crowd. Still in working order, this part of the
According to the autopsy, he died of original 1900 mechanism was automated
a heart attack before even touching in 1986.
the ground. Birdman Reichelt



KEY Champ-de-Mars
The gardens of this
1 The third level, 276 m (905 ft) former parade ground
above the ground, can hold 400 stretch from the base
people at a time. A champagne bar of the tower to the
and Gustave Eiffel’s offices are here. Ecole Militaire.
2 Le Jules Verne Restaurant is one
of the best in Paris, offering superb
food and panoramic views (see p303).
3 The second level, at 115 m (376
ft), is separated from the first level by
359 steps, or a few minutes in the lift.
4 The first level, at 57 m (187 ft)
high, with its high-tech visitors’
centre and dizzying glass floor
panels, can be reached by lift or
by climbing 345 steps.





196-197_EW_Paris.indd 196 03/04/17 10:56 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 3rd September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

INV ALIDES AND EIFFEL T OWER QU AR TER  197


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Quai Branly and Champ de Mars.
Map 10 D3. Tel 08 92 70 12 39.
Open mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 9:30am–
11:45pm daily (6:30pm for stairs);
mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–12:45am
(last adm 45 min before closing,
last lift to top 45 min before
closing; access to top may be
restricted in bad weather). & ^
7 0 = ∑ toureiffel.paris
Transport
q Bir Hakeim. @ 42, 69, 72, 82, 87
to Champ de Mars. W Champ-
de-Mars Tour Eiffel.
. Viewing Gallery
On a clear day, it is possible to see for
72 km (45 miles), including a distant
view of Chartres Cathedral.






Double-Decker Lifts
The limited capacity of the lifts means
that it can take up to a couple of hours
to reach the top. Tickets can be booked
online ahead of time. Queuing for the lifts
requires a good head for heights.


The Tower in Figures
• The top (including the antennae) is 324 m
(1,063 ft) high
• The top can move in a curve of 18 cm (7 in)
under the effect of heat
• 1,665 steps to the third level
• 2.5 million rivets hold the tower together
• Never sways more than 7 cm (2.5 in)
• 10,100 tonnes in weight
• 60 tonnes of paint are used every
seven years
A workman building the tower








.Eiffel Bust
Eiffel (1832–1923) was
awarded the Légion
d’Honneur in 1889. Another
honour was the bust
by Antoine Bourdelle,
placed beneath the
tower in 1929.




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Charles de
Gaulle Etoile
A V E N U E F O C H
Kléber
Porte AVENUE VICTOR HUGO K L E B E R A V E N U E
POMPE
Dauphine AV E N U E B U G E A U D M Victor Hugo L A U R I S T O N A V E N U E L A P E R O U S E AVE
Avenue
RUE DE LA
Foch
A V E N U E R AY
B O U L E V A R D F L A N D R I N R U E D E L A FA ISA N D ER I E R U E S P O N T I N I RUE DES BELLES FEUILLES R U E S A I N T D I D I E R Boissi
RUE COPERNIC
A V E N U E V I C T O R H U G O
R U E
R U E M E S N I L O N D
D’IENA
PLACE
RUE DE BELLOY
AMIRAL
RUE GALILEE M A R C E A U
R U E B O I S S I E R E
RUE DE LOTA
RUE DE LONGCHAMP
DE SERBIE
P O I N C A R E
KLEBER
DE
RUE HAMELIN
RUE
Ave Henri VILLA RUE DE LA POMPE CHAILLOT RUE DE LONGCHAMP D’IENA Alma
RUE DE LON GCHAMP E
Martin JOCELYN RUE DE CAMPS
AVE HENRI MARTIN R U E G R E U Z E AVENU AVENUE DU PRESIDENT WILSON Marceau
Rue de la AVE Iéna
AVE D'EYLAU
Pompe AVENUE GEORGES MANDEL Trocadéro RUE FRESNEL Debilly
RUE DE LA POMPE RUE RUE DES BORDES RUE CORTAMBERT RUE SCHEFFER RUE B FRANKLIN AVE DE NEW YORK
Passerelle
RUE DE LA TOUR
A V E N U E P A U L D O U M E R
RUE DE
NICOLO
LA
RUE VITAL
R E MANUEL
AVE DU PRESIDENT KENNEDY
R NICOLO
Passy
R U E D E P A S S Y TOUR BLVD DELESSERT S e i n e
RUE RAYNOUAR D
R U E D E B O U L A I N V I LL I E R S La Muette RUE SINGER AVE DE LAMBALLE Bir Hakeim
RUE DE
L’ALBONI
Boulainvilliers PASSY
RUE DE L'ANNONCIATION
RUE RAYNOUARD
Pont de
RUE DES VIGNES
RUE DU RANELAGH
Ave du Président
Kennedy Maison de
Radio-France
RUE DE BOULAINVILLIERS
Pont de
Grenelle
198-199_EW_Paris.indd 198 25/04/16 4:18 pm