(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Paris

THE M AR AIS  99


1615. The famous literary
hostess, Madame de Sévigné,
was born here in 1626;
Cardinal Richelieu, pillar of
the monarchy, stayed here
in 1615; and Victor Hugo, the
writer, lived here for 16 years.

6 Maison de
Victor Hugo
6 Pl des Vosges 75004. Map 14 D3.
Tel 01 42 72 10 16. q Bastille,
Chemin Vert. Open 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun. Closed public hols.
& exhibitions only. 8 by appt.
∑ maisonvictorhugo.paris.fr
The French poet, dramatist and
novelist lived on the second
floor of the former Hôtel Rohan-
Guéménée from 1832 to 1848. Late Renaissance façade of the Hôtel de Bethune-Sully
It was here that he wrote most
of Les Misérables and completed gardens. The Hôtel de Bethune- 1960s. Some 165 students were
many other famous works. On Sully is now the headquarters rounded up and deported from
display are some for the Centre des Monuments the Jewish boys’ school nearby
reconstructions of the Nationaux, which has a good at 10 rue de Hospitalières-St-
rooms in which he bookshop on the ground floor. Gervais in World War II. N’Oubliez
lived, pen-and-ink pas (Lest we forget) is engraved
drawings, books on the wall. Today, this area
and mementos 8 Rue des Rosiers contains synagogues, bakeries
from the crucially and kosher restaurants.
important periods in 75004. Map 13 C3. q St-Paul.
his life, from his The Jewish quarter in and around 9 Hôtel de
childhood to his exile this street is one of the most
between 1852 and colourful areas of Paris. The Coulanges
1870. Temporary street’s name refers to the rose 35 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 75004.
Marble bust of exhibi tions on bushes within the old city wall. Map 13 C3. Tel 01 44 61 85 85. q
Victor Hugo by Hugo take place Jews first settled here in the St-Paul, Rambuteau. Open 9am–6pm
Auguste Rodin regularly. 13th century, with a second Mon–Fri (until 7pm Apr–Sep). Closed
significant wave of immigration public hols. ∑ paris-europe.eu
occurring in the 19th century
7 Hôtel de from Russia, Poland and central This hôtel is a magnificent
Bethune-Sully Europe. Sephardic Jews arrived example of the architecture of
from Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco the early 18th century. The right
62 Rue St-Antoine 75004. Map 14 D4. and Egypt in the 1950s and wing of the building, separating
Tel 01 44 61 21 50. q Bastille, St-Paul. the courtyard from the
Open for pre-booked tours only, but garden, dates from the
the gardens are open 9am–7pm & the early 17th century.
bookshop 1pm–7pm, Tue–Sun.
8 by reservation; 16 people max. The hôtel was given in
∑ sully.monuments-nationaux.fr 1640 to Philippe II de
Coulanges, the king’s
This fine 17th-century mansion counsellor. Renamed
on one of Paris’s oldest streets the “Petit Hôtel Le Tellier”
has been extensively restored, in 1662 by its new
using old engravings and draw- owner, Le Tellier, this is
ings as reference. It was built in where the children of
1624 for a notorious gambler, Louis XIV and Madame
Petit Thomas, who lost his whole de Montespan were
fortune in one night. The Duc raised in secrecy. It is
de Sully, Henri IV’s chief minister, home to the Maison
purchased the house in 1634 de l’Europe, with
and added the Petit Sully exhibitions on themes
orangery in the lovely formal A bakery on Rue des Rosiers relating to Europe.




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100  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

0 Musée Picasso Paris

On the death of the Spanish-born artist . Self-Portrait
Pablo Picasso (1881–1973), who lived Poverty, loneliness and
most of his life in France, the French State the onset of winter all
made the end of 1901,
inherited many of his works in lieu of death when this picture was
duties. It used them to establish the Musée painted, a particularly
Picasso Paris, which opened in 1985. The difficult time
museum is housed in a large 17th-century for Picasso.
mansion, the Hôtel Salé, in the Marais.
The original character of the Hôtel, which
was built in 1656 for Aubert de Fontenay,
a salt-tax collector (salé means
“salty”), has been preserved. The
museum holds the world’s largest
collection of Picasso’s works –
paintings, sculptures, ceramics,
drawings and etchings – covering
all his creative periods.




Violin and Sheet Music
This collage (1912) is from Second floor
the artist’s Synthetic
Cubist period.



. The Two Brothers (1906)
During the summer of 1906, Picasso
returned to Catalonia in Spain,
where he painted this picture.



. The Kiss (1969)
Picasso married Jacqueline
Roque in 1961, and at
around the same time, he Basement
returned to the familiar
themes of the couple and
of the artist and model.



Gallery Guide
The basement reconstructs Picasso’s
studios using his prints, photographs
and personal items. The next three levels
follow his work chronologically, from
1895 up to his death in 1973. Some
rooms follow a theme, such as his Blue
and Pink periods, self-portraits and
subjects like bull-fighting, family and Woman with a Mantilla (1949)
war. The top floor holds Picasso’s private Picasso extended his range
art collection, with works by the likes of when he began working in
Renoir, Cezanne, Braque and Matisse. ceramics in 1948.




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THE M AR AIS  101

Painter with Palette
and Easel (1928) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This Post-Cubist portrait in oils was
painted at a time when Picasso’s Practical Information
work was verging on Surrealism. Hôtel Salé, 5 Rue de Thorigny
75003. Map 14 D2. Tel 01 85 56
00 36. Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–
Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
& 7 8 groups by appt only,
book online. - = Concerts,
conferences and performances.
∑ museepicassoparis.fr
Third floor Transport
q St-Sébastien Froissart, St-Paul,
Chemin Vert. @ 29, 69, 75, 96 to
St-Paul, Bastille, Pl des Vosges.
W Châtelet-Les-Halles. h Rue
St-Antoine, Bastille.



Picasso and Spain
After 1934, Picasso never
returned to his homeland due to
his rejection of Franco’s regime.
However, throughout his life
in France he used Spanish
themes in his art, such as
the bull (often in the
form of a minotaur)
and the guitar, which
Woman Reading (1932) he associated with his
Purples and yellows were Andalusian childhood.
First floor often used by Picasso
when painting his model
Marie-Thérèse Walter.



Entrance







. Two Women Running on the Beach (1922)
In 1924, this was used for the stage curtain design
for Diaghilev’s ballet The Blue Train. It proved to
be his last major design work for any theatre.
Key to Floorplan
Cubism
Ground Male Portraits
floor Picasso’s Private Collection
Early Works: 1895–1931
Modern Classicism: 1918–43
Second World War Years
Bull/Minotaur Works
Later Years 1950–73
7
Entrance Studios




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q Pavillon de hollow bronze reaches 50.5 m
l’Arsenal (166 ft) into the sky. It is a
memorial to those who died
21 Blvd Morland 75004. Map 14 D5. in the street battles of July
Tel 01 42 76 33 97. q Sully Morland, 1830 that led to the overthrow
Bastille. Open 10:30am–6:30pm Tue– of the monarch (see pp34–5).
Sat, 11am–7pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan. The crypt contains the remains
- = 8 by appointment only.
∑ pavillon-arsenal.com of 504 victims of the violent
fighting and others who died
The Pavillon de l’Arsenal in the 1848 revolution.
houses a small but fascinating
exhibition illustrating the r Place de la
architectural evolution of
Paris. Using films, models Bastille
and panoramic images, this 75004. Map 14 E4. q Bastille.
permanent exhibition explores
how Paris was built over the Nothing is left of the prison
centuries, as well as looking at stormed by the revolutionary
future plans for the city. Up to mob on 14 July 1789 (see
three temporary exhibitions are pp32–3) – an event celebrated
also pro grammed each year. annually by the French –
although the stones were
w Opéra National The “genius of liberty” on top of the used for the construction of
the Pont de la Concorde. The
de Paris Bastille Colonne de Juillet large, traffic-clogged square
which marks the site was once
120 Rue de Lyon 75012. Map 14 E4. The main auditorium seats an the border between central
Tel 01 40 01 19 70 or 08 92 89 90 90.
q Bastille. Open for guided tours audience of 2,700; its design is Paris and the eastern working-
only. Performance times are published functional and modern with class areas (faubourgs).
online. Closed certain public hols. black upholstered seats Gentrification, however, is well
& 7 8 compulsory; book in contrasting with the granite of under way: the marina known
advance. See Entertainment pp337, 339. the walls and the impressive as Bassin de l’Arsenal welcomes
∑ operadeparis.fr glass ceiling. With its five 180 pleasure boats and plays
moveable stages, this opera host to the small Jardin de
The controversial “people’s house is certainly a masterpiece l’Arsenal garden, a terraced café
opera” was officially opened on of technological wizardry. and a playground. At the
14 July 1989 to coincide with northern end of the marina,
the bicentennial celebrations e Colonne de trendy bars, cafés, seafood
of the Storming of the Bastille. restaurants and art galleries
Carlos Ott’s imposing building Juillet can be found.
is a notable break with 19th- Pl de la Bastille 75004. Map 14 E4. Just east of the Opéra Bastille
century opera-house design, q Bastille. Closed to the public. is the starting point of the
epitomized by Garnier’s opulent Promenade Plantée, also
Opéra in the heart of the city Topped by the elegant, gilded known as the Coulée Verte
(see pp218–19). It is a massive, statue of the winged “genius René Dumont, a 4.5-km (2.8-
modern, curved, glass building. of liberty”, this column of mile) elevated walking trail
built on the former tracks of a
disused railway line that ends
up at the Bois de Vincennes.

t St-Paul–St-Louis
99 Rue St-Antoine 75004. Map 14 D4.
Tel 01 42 72 30 32. q St-Paul. Open
8am–8pm daily. Mass: 6pm Sat,
9:30am, 11am, 7pm Sun. Concerts.
A Jesuit church, St-Paul–St-Louis
was an important symbol of
the influence that the Jesuits
held from 1627, when Louis XIII
laid the first stone, to 1762
when they were expelled from
The glass façade of the Opéra National de Paris Bastille France. The Gesù church in




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THE M AR AIS  103


Rome served as the model for u Maison to the unknown Jewish martyr
the nave, while the 60-m high Européenne de of the Holocaust. Its striking
(180-ft) dome was the forerunner la Photographie feature is a large cylinder
of those of the Invalides and the that bears the names of the
Sorbonne. Most of the church’s 5–7 Rue de Fourcy 75004. Map 13 C3. concentration camps where
treasures were removed Tel 01 44 78 75 00. q St-Paul, Pont- Jewish victims of the Holocaust
during periods of turmoil, but Marie. Open 11am–7:45pm Wed–Sun. died. In 2005, a stone wall,
Delacroix’s masterpiece, Christ in Closed public hols. & 7 8 engraved with the names
the Garden of Olives, can still be ∑ mep-fr.org of 76,000 Jews – 11,000 of
seen. The church is on one of them children – who were
the main streets of the Marais, Located in the heart of the deported from France to
but can also be approached by Marais, in the elegant 18th- the Nazi death camps, was
the ancient Passage St-Paul. century Hotel Henault de erected here. Artifacts from
Cantobre, the Maison the camps are also on display.
Européenne de la Photographie
(MEP) hosts some of the best
exhibitions of contemporary o St-Gervais–
photography in Europe. It St-Protais
organizes cutting-edge shows
alongside retrospectives on Pl St-Gervais 75004. Map 13 B3.
major photographers, and since Tel 01 48 87 32 02. q Hôtel de Ville.
opening its doors in 1996, it Open 7am–9pm daily.
has hosted displays by such
celebrated photographers as Named after Gervase and
Elliott Erwitt, Don McCullin, Protase, two Roman soldiers
Annie Leibovitz and Henri who were martyred by Nero in
Cartier-Bresson. The MEP’s the 1st century AD, St-Gervais–
huge permanent collection on St-Protais is on the site of a 6th-
the history of photography is a century church. The current
The Hôtel des Archevêques de Sens, now must-see for anyone interested church was built in 1494–1660.
home to a fine arts library in exploring this medium. It has splendid stained-glass
windows and the oldest Classical
y Hôtel des façade in Paris, which is formed
Archevêques i Mémorial de of a three-tiered arrangement
de Sens la Shoah of columns: Doric, Ionic and
17 Rue Geoffroy-l’Asnier 75004. Map Corinthian. Behind its façade
1 Rue du Figuier 75004. Map 13 C4. lies a beautiful Gothic church
Tel 01 42 78 14 60. q Pont-Marie. 13 C4. Tel 01 42 77 44 72. q Pont- renowned for its association
Open for scholarly visits to the library Marie, St-Paul. Open 10am–6pm Sun– with religious music. It was for
only; phone ahead to arrange an Fri (10am–10pm Thu). Multimedia & the church’s fine organ that
appointment. ^ 8 by appt only. reading rooms: 10am–5:30pm Sun–Fri François Couperin (1668–1733)
(to 7:30pm Thu). Closed public &
Jewish hols. & exhibitions. 78 composed his two masses. The
The former residence of the = ∑ memorialdelashoah.org church currently has a Roman
influential archbishop of Sens Catholic monastic community
was built in the late 15th The eternal flame burning in whose liturgy attracts people
century and is one of the few the crypt here is the memorial from all over the world.
medieval buildings left in Paris.
Today, it houses the Forney fine
arts library. In the 16th century,
at the time of the Catholic
League, it was occupied by
the Bourbons, the Guises and
Cardinal de Pellevé, whose
religious fervour led him to die
of rage in 1594 on hearing that
the Protestant Henri IV had
entered Paris. Marguerite de
Valois, lodged here by her
ex-husband, Henri IV, led a life
of breathtaking debauchery
and scandal, beheading an
ex-lover who had assassinated
her current favourite. The
gardens are open to the public. The façade of St-Gervais–St-Protais, with its Classical columns




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The elaborate façade of the town hall (Hôtel de Ville), rebuilt in the 19th century according to its original Neo-Renaissance design
p Hôtel de Ville a Cloître des friars who founded a convent
Pl de l’Hôtel de Ville (visitor entrance Billettes here in 1258. It has an interesting
29 Rue de Rivoli) 75004. Map 13 B3. 24 Rue des Archives 75004. Map 13 18th-century Rococo Flemish
Tel 01 42 76 40 40. q Hôtel-de-Ville. B3. Tel 06 63 22 91 73. q Hôtel-de- pulpit, and its famous organ
Open hours vary for temporary Ville. Open Cloister 2–7pm daily; can be appreciated at one of
exhibitions; groups: by appt, Tel 01 42 church 6:30–8pm Thu, 9:30am–4pm the church’s concerts.
76 43 43 or 01 42 76 54 04. Closed Sun. 8 Concerts, Tel 06 62 45 91 29.
public hols, official functions. 7
8 = ∑ paris.fr/municipalite This is the only remaining d Hôtel de Rohan
medieval cloister in Paris. It was 87 Rue Vieille-du-Temple 75003.
Home of the city council, the built in 1427 for the Brothers of Map 13 C2. Tel 01 40 27 60 29. q
town hall is a 19th-century recon- Charity, or Billettes, and three of Rambuteau. Closed for renovations;
struction of the original building its four original galleries are still call for updates. Courtyard open.
erected between 1533 and standing. The adjoining church
1628, that was burned down in is a simple Classical building The Hôtel de Rohan forms a pair
1871. It is highly ornate, with which replaced the monastic with the Hôtel de Soubise. It
elaborate stonework, turrets and original in 1756. was built by the same architect,
statues overlooking a pedestrian- Delamair, for Armand de Rohan-
ized square whose fountains are Soubise, Bishop of Strasbourg.
illuminated at night. The hôtel has been home to a
The square was once the main part of the national archives (one
site for hangings, burn ings and of the largest in the world) since
other executions. It was here that 1927. In the courtyard, over the
Ravaillac, Henri IV’s assassin, was doorway of the stables, is the
quartered alive, his body ripped 18th-century sculpture Horses
to pieces by four strong horses. of Apollo by Robert Le Lorrain.
Inside, a notable feature is the
long Salle des Fêtes (ballroom), Cloître des Billettes, Paris's oldest cloister
with adjoining salons devoted
to science, literature and the s Notre-Dame-des-
arts. The impressive staircase,
the decorated ceilings with their Blancs-Manteaux
chandeliers, and the statues and 1 Rue de l’Abbé Migne 75004. Map 13
caryatids all add to the air of C3. Tel 01 42 72 09 37. q Rambuteau.
ceremony and pomp. While Open 5–7:30pm Mon, 8am–noon & 4–
these parts are mostly closed to 5:30pm Tue–Fri, 9am–noon & 4–7:30pm
the public (except during some Sat, 10am–noon Sun. 5 6:15pm Sat,
of the Journées du Patrimoine 11am Sun & other times during the wk.
(see p66) and group visits), 8 on request. Concerts. ∑ ndbm.fr
certain annexes are used for
temporary exhibitions on The name of this church, built
themes related to France (see in 1685, derives from the white
www.paris.fr for more info). habits worn by the Augus tinian Horses of Apollo by Le Lorrain




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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.9)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE M AR AIS  105


j Square du
Temple
75003. Map 13 C1. q Temple.
A quiet and pleasant square
today, this was once a fortified
centre of the medieval Knights
Templar. A state within a state,
the area contained a palace, a
church and shops behind high
walls and a draw bridge, making
it a haven for those who were
seeking to escape from royal
jurisdiction. Louis XVI and Marie-
The Hôtel de Soubise Antoinette were held here after
their arrest in 1792 (see pp32–3).
f Hôtel de Soubise Henri de Guénégaud des Brosses, The king left from here for his
who was Secretary of State and execution by the guillotine.
60 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois 75003.
Map 13 C2. Tel 01 40 27 60 96. Keeper of the Seals. One wing
q Rambuteau. Musée de l’Histoire now contains the Musée de la
de France Open 10am–5:30pm Mon, Chasse et de la Nature (Hunting
Wed–Fri, 2–5:30pm Sat & Sun. 8 Museum) inaugur ated by André
Tel 01 40 27 60 96. & ∑ archives- Malraux in 1967. It holds the
nationales.culture.gouv.fr collections of Francois and
Jacqueline Sommer; exhibits
This imposing mansion, built include a fine collection of
from 1705 to 1709 for the hunting weapons. There are
Princesse de Rohan, is one of also drawings and paintings
two main buildings housing the by Oudry, Rubens (including
national archives. (The other is Diane and her Nymphs Preparing
the Hôtel de Rohan.) The Hôtel to Hunt) and Rembrandt.
de Soubise displays a majestic
courtyard and a magnificent h Musée des Arts The exterior of the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
interior decora tion dating du Judaïsme
from 1735 to 1740 by some et Métiers
of the most gifted painters 60 Rue Réaumur 75003. Map 13 B1-C1. k Musée d’Art
and craftsmen of the day: Carl Tel 01 53 01 82 00. q Arts et Métiers. et d’Histoire
Van Loo, Jean Restout, Charles Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9:30pm
Natoire and François Boucher. Thu). Closed 1 May & 25 Dec. & 8 du Judaïsme
Natoire’s rocaille work on the 7 - = ∑ arts-et-metiers.net Hôtel de St-Aignan, 71 Rue du Temple
Princess’s bedroom, the Oval 75003. Map 13 C2. Tel 01 53 01 86 60.
Salon, forms part of the Musée de Housed within the old Abbey of q Rambuteau. Open 11am–6pm
l’Histoire de France. Other exhibits St-Martin-des-Champs, the Arts Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm Sun (last admis-
include Napoleon’s will, in which and Crafts Museum was founded sion at 5:15pm). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
he asks for his remains to be in 1794. After major renovations Rosh Hashanah & Yom Kippur. & 8
returned to France, and letters in the 1990s it reopened in 2000 7 9 - = ∑ mahj.org
by Joan of Arc and Voltaire. as a high-quality museum of
science and industry displaying Housed in an elegant Marais
g Hôtel de 5,000 items (it has 75,000 other mansion, the museum unites
collections formerly scattered
artifacts in storage available to
Guénégaud (Musée academics and researchers). The around the city, and commem-
de la Chasse et de theme is man’s ingenuity and orates the culture of French
la Nature) the world of invention and Jewry from medieval times to
the present. There has been a
manufacturing, covering such
62 Rue des Archives 75003. Map 13 topics as textiles, photography sizeable Jewish community in
C2. Tel 01 53 01 92 40. q Hôtel de and machines. Among the most France since Roman times, and
Ville Museum. Open 11am–6pm Tue– entertaining displays are ones of some of the world’s greatest
Sun (to 9:30pm Thu). Closed public musical clocks, mechanical Jewish scholars were French.
hols. & = ∑ chassenature.org musical instruments and Much exquisite craftsmanship is
automata (mechanical figures), displayed, with elaborate silver-
The celebrated architect François one of which, the “Joueuse de ware and Torah covers. There are
Mansart built this superb man- Tympanon”, is said to represent also historical documents, photo-
sion in the mid-17th century for Marie-Antoinette. graphs, paintings and cartoons.



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P ARIS AREA B Y AREA  107

BEAUBOURG AND LES HALLES

Sandwiched between the Tuileries and the been transformed into a huge underground
Marais, Beaubourg and Les Halles are busy mall called the Forum des Halles, with shops,
centres for shopping, eating and sightseeing. cinemas and even a swimming pool. Above
The area mixes the modern and the old – ground, there are gardens, cafés, bars and
one minute you could be facing the Centre vintage shops. Recent renovations have
Pompidou, an architectural wonder with an done much to dispel its reputation as a
inside-out industrial design of scaffolds, rather seedy area after dark.
pipes and steel ducts; the next, be strolling Sights in the area include the Eglise
by the Renaissance Fontaine des Innocents. St-Eustache, modelled after Notre-Dame,
Les Halles, also known as the “Belly of Paris”, and Vieux Rue Montorgueil, a cobblestone
was an 800-year-old food market that once pedestrian district with produce shops,
provided the city’s sustenance. It has since terraced cafés and trendy bars.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Historic Cafés Restaurants see pp296–8
0 No. 51 Rue de Montmorency 6 Café Beaubourg 1 L’Ambassade d’Auvergne
q Tour Jean Sans Peur Fountains 2 L’Ange 20
e Bourse du Commerce 4 Fontaine des Innocents 3 Auberge Nicolas Flamel
t La Samaritaine 4 Benoît
y Tour St-Jacques Museums and Galleries 5 Blend
Churches 1 Pompidou Centre pp110 –13 6 Filakia
7 Frenchie
3 St-Merry 5 Galerie Marian Goodman 8 Le Garde Robe
7 Forum des Images
w St-Eustache 9 Musée de la Poupée 9 Le Hangar
r St-Germain l’Auxerrois 10 Le Pharamond
Modern Architecture 11 La Régalade St-Honoré
2 Place Igor Stravinsky R U E R E A U M U R 12 Spring
8 Forum des Halles 13 Le Tir Bouchon
Sentier 100m R U E 14 Yam’Tcha
R U E
R U E
RUE LEOPOLD BELLAN
RUE DE PALESTRO
Réaumur
RUE ST SAUVEUR
R E A U M U R
GRENETA
RUE MANDAR
Arts et
R U E D U L O U V R E M A R C E L
R U E
R TIQUETONNE
M O N T M A R T R E
Marcel
RUE DU JOUR
See also Street Finder RUE J J ROUSSEAU E T I E N N E Etienne T U R B I G O MA R T I N RUE CHAPON
D E
S T
map 12, 13 RUE DE VIARMES R CASSIN R U E Halles R U E LESCOT D E N I S R AUX OURS RUE DU GRENIER
RUE COQUILLERE
Les
PLACE
ST LAZARE
R A M B U T E A U
RUE B DE
P S T D E CLAIRVAUX RUE MICHEL LE
COMTE
RUE SAUVAL R U E B E R G E R PLACE Châtelet les RUE R U E R UE R U E B E A U B O U R G
M QUENTIN Halles COSSONNERIE Rambuteau
RUE DE LA
RUE S T HO N OR E
PLACE
RUE
R U E B E R G E R
PL M DE POMPIDOU RAMBUTEAU
GEORGES
NAVARRE
R DE L'ARBRE SEC RUE DES BOURDONNAIS RUE DES HALLES ST DENIS B O U L E V A R D E MICHELET MAR T I N T E M P L E
Louvre RUE DU PONT NEUF RUE QUINCAMPOIX
PLACE
Rivoli Châtelet R AUBRY LE BOUCHER
RUE
RUE DES PRETRES
ST GERMAIN
RUE DE LA MONNAIE RUE DE Châtelet RUE R N FLAMEL S T D U
L’AUXERROIS
Pont Neuf BERTIN POIREE RUE J LANTIER RIVOLI BON R D U R E N A R D
COLONNE
RUE E
Pont Neuf QUAI DE LA MEGISSERIE AVE Châtelet R RUE ST R U E
S e i n e PLACE DU VICTORIA Hôtel
CHATELET R DE LA TACHERIE de Ville
Pont au Change QUAI DE GESVRES
0 metres
400
V O I E G E O R G E S P O M P I D O U
0 yards 400 Pont Notre- Dame
Pont d'Arcole
Large air vents on the exterior of the Pompidou Centre For keys to symbols see back flap
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108  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Beaubourg and Les Halles

When Emile Zola described Les Halles as the “belly The Rue
of Paris”, he was referring to the meat, vegetable and Quincampoix
fruit market that had thrived here since 1183. Traffic is lined by
congestion in the 1960s forced the market to move to 18th-century
hôtels that
the suburbs and Baltard’s giant umbrella-like market have been
pavilions were pulled down, despite howls of protest, and beautifully
replaced by a shopping and leisure complex, the Forum. restored
The conversion worked: today, Les Halles and the and totally
refurbished.
Pompidou Centre, which lies in the Beaubourg
quarter and has been one of Paris’s main tourist
attractions ever since it opened in 1977,
draw the most mixed crowds in Paris.





R U E P I E R R E L E S C O T R U E R A M B A T E A U

L
O
P
8 . Forum des Halles T O
The striking Canopy A S
structure welcomes R U E B E R G E R B
visitors to this under- I S S E
ground shopping E N
and leisure hub. T D
JOACHIM-DU- -BELLAY E S D E

PL MARGUERITE
DE NAVARRE
R U RUE AU

D
L V BRY LE BOUCHER
B
E
R U E D E L A F E R R O N N E R I E
E N
T U
S T
E R
R P U O
P
O
7 Forum des Images
Visitors can enjoy watching films To Metro
on one of the five screens here. Châletet R U E D E S L O M B A R D S
Rue de la Ferronnerie was where, in 4 . Fontaine
1610, the religious fanatic Ravaillac des Innocents
assassinated Henri IV while his This is the last
carriage was caught in the traffic. Renaissance fountain
left in Paris. It was
designed by the
sculptor and architect
Jean Goujon.
Key
Suggested route





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BEA UBOURG AND LES HALLES  109

Le Défenseur du Temps OPERA
This impressive brass- QUARTER
and-steel mechanical BEAUBOURG AND
clock and sculpture was TUILERIES LES HALLES
QUARTER
designed by Jacques
Monastier in 1979. S e i n e MARAIS
THE
It portrays a soldier
ILE DE
defending the passage ST-GERMAIN- LA CITE
DES-PRES
of time against savage ILE ST-LOUIS
beasts which represent
the elements. Locator Map
See Central Paris Map pp16–17


0 metres 100
0 yards 100





L
O
R U E R A M B A T E A U
P
O
T
S
A
B
E X
S O I Metro

P Rambuteau

M N
I
A
C T
R
E N A S
D I E U G
U M G O R
Q R 1 . Pompidou Centre
T D U
O
S I O Paris’s museum of modern
E P B
RUE AU
G M U art is housed here,
D O A along with extensive art
L V BRY LE BOUCHER P L P E libraries and an industrial
B B design centre.
E E
U U
R R
E R U E S T M E R R I
U
R
R U E B R I S M I C H E
R U E D E S L O M B A R D S
A R D
N
E
R

U
D 2 . Place Igor Stravinsky

E is dominated by the first contemporary
U
R Parisian fountain, created by Niki de
Saint Phalle and Jean Tinguely.
R U E D E L A V E R R E R I E
3 St-Merry
The pulpit of this beautiful church was
IRCAM is a research designed by the Stodtz brothers in the mid-
centre dedicated to 18th century and is supported by a pair of
pioneering new ways carved palm trees, one on either side.
of making music.
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110  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

1 Pompidou Centre

The Pompidou Centre is like a building turned
inside out: escalators, lifts, air and water ducts
and even the massive steel struts that are the
building’s skeleton have all been placed on
the outside. This allowed architects Richard
Rogers, Renzo Piano and Gianfranco Franchini
to create an uncluttered, flexible space within The escalator that rises step by step
it for the Musée National d’Art Moderne, the up the façade overlooking the piazza
world’s largest collection of modern art, as runs through a glass conduit. From the
well as for the Pompidou’s other activities. top, there is a spectacular view over
Paris that includes Montmartre, La
Schools represented in the museum include Défense and the Eiffel Tower.
Fauvism, Cubism and Surrealism. Outside in
the piazza, the street performers attract
crowds. The Pompidou Centre also hosts
temporary exhibitions that thrust it into
the heart of the international art scene.

Key to Floorplan
Exhibition space
Non-exhibition space

Gallery Guide
The permanent collections are on
Levels 4, 5 and 6: Level 4 is reserved for
contemporary art from the 1960s
onwards, while works from 1905 to 1960
are on Levels 5 and 6. Levels 1 and 6 host
major exhibitions, while Levels 1, 2 and 3
house an informa tion library. The lower
levels make up “The Forum”, the focal
public area, which includes a performance
centre for dance, theatre and music, a
cinema and a children’s workshop.





















Portrait of the Journalist Le Cheval Majeur
Sylvia von Harden (1926) This bronze horse (1914–16) by
The surgical precision of Dix’s style Duchamp-Villon is one of the finest
makes this a harsh caricature. examples of Cubist sculpture.




110-111_EW_Paris.indd 110 03/04/17 10:56 am

BEA UBOURG AND LES HALLES  111


To Russia, the Asses VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
and the Others (1911)
Throughout his life, Chagall Practical Information
drew inspiration from the Pl Georges Pompidou.
small Russian town of Vitebsk, Map 13 B2. Tel 01 44 78 12 33.
where he was born. Open MNAM & temp exhibs:
11am–10pm Wed–Mon (to 11pm
Thu); Library: noon–10pm Wed–
Mon (from 11am Sat, Sun & pub
hols); Atelier Brancusi: 2–6pm
Wed–Mon. ^ 7 & (free for
under 18s & on 1st Sun of
month). 8 0 - =
∑ centrepompidou.fr
Transport
q Rambuteau, Châtelet, Hôtel
de Ville. @ 21, 29, 38, 47, 58, 69,
70, 72, 74, 75, 76, 81, 85, 96.
W Châtelet-Les-Halles.




Basin and
Sculpture
Terrace


The Breakfast
Table (1915)
Juan Gris’
fragmented objects
with sharp-edges
represent the
synthetic Cubism
style of art.







Le Duo (1937)
Georges Braque, like Picasso,
developed the Cubist technique
of representing different views of
a subject in a single picture.
Basin and
Sculpture Colour-Coding
Terrace The coloured pipes that are the most striking feature
at the back of the Pompidou, on the Rue du Renard,
moved one critic to compare the building to an oil
refinery. Far from being merely decorative, the colours
serve to distinguish the pipes’ various functions: air-
conditioning ducts are blue, water pipes green and
electricity lines are painted yellow. The areas through
which people move vertically (such as escalators) are
red. The white funnels are ventilation shafts for the
underground areas, and structural beams are clad in
stainless steel. The architects’ idea was to help the public
understand the way the dynamics of a building function.





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112  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Exploring the Pompidou’s Modern Art Collection

With over 60,000 works of art from over 5,000 artists, the nature into constructions of
Pompidou holds Europe’s largest collection of modern and colour and form. The museum
contemporary art. Classic disciplines – painting, sculpture, has a large collection of the
drawing and photography – are integrated with cinema, Russian painter’s works, of
which the Impressions
architecture, design, and audio-visual archives, to form a (Impressions V, Parc, 1911) mark
complete, chronological overview of modern and contem- the end of his Expressionist
porary art. The collections, however, keep changing. Works period before his plunge into
are often loaned out so some pieces may not be on show. Abstract art with Improvisations
XIV or Avec l’Arc Noir (With the
Black Arc) both dating from
1912 compositions.
The collection also shows the
groups and the movements on
which the history of modern art
is based, or by which it has
been affected, including Dada,
Abstract Art and Informal. A
pioneer of Informal art, Jean
Fautrier is represented in the
collections with Otages
(Hostages), a commemoration
of the suffering of the
resistance fighters.
At the heart of this chrono-
logical progression, various
thematic displays are a
revelation. One set shows non-
The Two Barges (1906) by André Derain figurative art from “Groupe
Espace and the Magazine”; a
1905–1960 Towards the end of his life, collaboration between painters,
Matisse made several collages sculptors, architects and
The “historical” collections bring from cut-up large sheets of engineers. Another room
together the great artistic gouache-painted paper. Among recreates the atmosphere of
movements of the first half of others, the museum possesses André Breton’s workshop in
the 20th century, from Fauvism Jazz (1943–7). With Homme à la which the works of his Surrealist
to Abstract Expressionism, to Guitare (Man with a Guitar), friends are also shown. Silent
the changing currents of the Braque demonstrates his pauses have also been allowed
1950s. The rich collection of command of the Cubist for: the room reserved for Miró
Cubist sculptures, of which the technique which he pioneered has vast, moody canvasses such
Cheval Majeur by Duchamp-Villon along with Picasso. Considered as La Sieste that give visitors
(1914–1916) is a fine example, is as one of the first, if not the first, reason to meditate on the
displayed, as well as examples Abstract painter, Kandinsky explosion and revolutions
of the great masters of the 20th transformed works inspired by of modern art.
century. Matisse, Picasso,
Braque, Duchamp, Kandinsky, Brancusi’s Studio
Léger, Miró, Giacometti and
Dubuffet command large areas The Atelier Brancusi, on the Rue Rambuteau
at the heart of the collection. side of the piazza, is a reconstruction of the
workshop of the Romanian-born artist
Constantin Brancusi (1876–1957), who lived
and worked in Paris from 1904. He bequeathed
his entire collection of works to the French state
on condition that his workshop be rebuilt as it
was on the day he died. The collection includes
sculptures and plinths, photographs and a selection
of his tools. Also featured are some of his more
personal items such as documents, pieces of
furniture and his book collection.

With the Black Arc (1912) by Miss Pogany (1919–20) by Constantin Brancusi
Vassily Kandinsky




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BEA UBOURG AND LES HALLES  113


discovered, often reflecting a
preference for the more ironic
and conceptual forms. German
artist Joseph Beuys’ Plight
(1985), for example, consists of
a grand piano in a room where
the walls are covered from
floor to ceiling with about
seven tonnes of thick felt
The Good-bye Door (1980) by Joan Mitchell arranged in rolls.
With regards to design and
Guston, Bernard Piffaretti and architecture, inflatable
Art Since 1960 Katharina Grosse. structures are explored in an
The contemporary art section Room 3 is an homage to unprecedented way with
occupies the fourth floor of the artist, philosopher, and art critic acidically coloured inflatable
Pompidou Centre and consists Pontus Hulten who was chosen pieces on display.
of approximately 500 works. by George Pompidou to plan A room is dedicated to
Jean-Michel Alberola’s and run the national museum French designer Philippe
exceptional, boldly coloured of modern art as its founding Starck’s work with items from
mural, Vous avez le bonjour de director from 1973 to 1981. the 1960s through to the
Marcel (2002) welcomes visitors This was to be one of the present day on display.
and sets the tone for the four departments of the Another room focuses on
contemporary collection. Pompidou Centre. leading young international
The collection starts with architects and
works by leading French artists designers of the
of the second half of the moment, along with
20th century: artist and a space dedicated to
sculptor Louise Bourgeois Japanese artists,
whose work is strongly including Shigeru Ban,
influenced by the Surrealists, the architect behind
Abstract Expressionism and the construction of
Minimalism, Pierre Soulages, the Pompidou Centre’s
Jean-Pierre Raynaud, François sister gallery in Metz.
Morellet and Bertrand Lavier. Homogenous Infiltration (1966) by Lastly, there is a “global” room
Yayoï Kusama’s restored Joseph Beuys bringing together major
masterpiece My Flower Bed contemporary pieces by
(1965–6), made of painted Pontus Hulten was responsible African, Chinese, Japanese and
mattress springs and stuffed for making the Musée d’art American artists. Denkifuku
gloves, is also on view. Moderne the open and cross- (1956), a dress made from light-
The display is organized disciplinary museum that its bulbs, is a key work by Atsuko
around a central aisle from founder had intended. Works Tanaka of Japan.
which the rooms holding the by Jean Tinguely, Andy Warhol, The museum gallery allows
museum’s collections lead off. and Niki de Saint Phalle are to temporary exhibitions to be
The central aisle is dotted with be found in this room. mounted from works held
sculptures including works by Certain areas in the in reserve. A graphic arts
Toni Grand, John Chamberlain Pompidou Centre have been exhibition room and a video
and Xavier Veilhan. This hall is, designated to bring together area complete the arrange-
however, dedicated principally different disciplines around a ment. A screening room gives
to painting with works by theme such as minimalist access to the museum’s entire
Gerhard Richter, Brice Marden, painting or conceptual art collection of videos of a wide
Jean-Michel Basquiat, Philip rather than a school or range of modern artists.
movement. Other rooms,
however, are artist specific
with rooms dedicated to New
Realist Martial Raysse, Robert
Filliou, Christian Botanski,
Sarkis, Joseph Beuys and
Marcel Broodthaers. These
rooms explore installation
and photography as well
as painting.
The fourth floor allows
Mobile on Two Planes (1955) by different aspects of the
Alexander Calder museum’s collections to be Le Rhinocéros (1999) by Xavier Veilhan




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114  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA


2 Place Igor 5 Galerie Marian
Stravinsky Goodman
79 Rue du Temple 75003. Map 13 C2.
75004. Map 13 B2. q Rambuteau.
Tel 01 48 04 70 52. q Rambuteau.
W Châtelet-Les-Halles. Open 11am–
This lively square on the south 7pm Tue–Sat. Closed between exhi-
side of the Pompidou Centre is bitions. ∑ mariangoodman.com
filled with modern sculptures
and street performers. Since This cutting-edge gallery is the
1983, it has contained the sister of two Marian Goodman
Stravinsky Fountain, which exhibition spaces – one in New
features 16 moving, water- York, the other in London – that
spraying sculptures of have played an important role in
skeletons, dragons and a pre senting European artists to
large pair of red lips. The black international audiences since the
iron and colourful polyester 1970s. Many important contem-
mechanical sculptures were porary artists, from the continent
created by husband-and-wife and the US, have been exhibited
team Jean Tinguely and Niki de in the Paris gallery, including
Saint Phalle and pay homage to Gerhard Richter, Jeff Wall, Tacita
Igor Stravinsky. Each sculpture Dean, William Kentridge, Chantal
represents one of his A Nativity scene from the stained-glass Akerman and Cristina Iglesias.
compositions, including The windows in St-Merry Housed in a beautiful 17th-
Firebird and The Rite of Spring. century mansion, the contem-
Stravinsky’s music paved the The west front is particularly rich porary works on display and
way for the pioneering work of in decoration, and the north- the Manhattan-style interior
IRCAM (Institut de la Researche west turret contains the oldest contrast in an appealing, if
et de la Coordination bell in Paris, dating from 1331. strikingly ana chronistic, way
Acoustique/Musique), which St-Merry was the wealthy parish with the period façade.
has an entrance on the west church of the Lombard money-
side of the square. Founded by lenders, who gave their name to
the composer Pierre Boulez, it the nearby Rue des Lombards. 6 Café Beaubourg
is a research centre dedicated to 43 Rue St-Merry, Esplanade du Centre
creating new technologies for 4 Fontaine Georges Pompidou 75004. Map 13 B2.
contemporary music, as well as Tel 01 48 87 63 96. q Les Halles,
a venue for concerts. Much of des Innocents Rambuteau, Hôtel-de-Ville.
the Institute is underground, Pl Joachim-du-Bellay 75001. W Châtelet-Les-Halles. Open 8am–
with an overground extension Map 13 A2. q Les Halles. 2am daily. ∑ cafebeaubourg.com
by Renzo Piano, one of the W Châtelet-Les-Halles.
Pompidou Centre’s architects. Opened by Gilbert Costes in
IRCAM runs an annual festival, This carefully restored 1987, this stylish café was
which usually takes place for Renaissance fountain stands in designed by one of France’s
up to two weeks in June. the Place Joachim-
du-Bellay, the area’s
main crossroads.
3 St-Merry Erected in 1549 on
the Rue St-Denis, it
76 Rue de la Verrerie 75004. Map 13
B3. Tel 01 42 71 93 93. q Hôtel-de- was moved to its
Ville. Open Apr–Oct: 3–7pm Mon–Sat; present location in
Nov–Mar: 2–6pm Mon–Sat. 8 after the 18th century,
concerts, 1st & 3rd Sun of month. 5 when the square
12:10pm Mon–Fri, 10 & 11:15am Sun. was constructed on
Concerts. ∑ saintmerry.org the site of a former
graveyard. Originally
The site of this church dates back set into a wall, the
to the 7th century. St Médéric, fountain had only
the abbot of St-Martin d’Autun, three sides so a
was buried here at the begin- fourth had to be
ning of the 8th century after constructed. The
he died while on pilgrimage fountain is a
in Paris. Construction of the popular meeting
church – in the Flamboyant place, and is one of
Gothic style – took place the landmarks of
between 1500 and 1550. Les Halles. Decoration on the Fontaine des Innocents




114-115_EW_Paris.indd 114 03/04/17 10:56 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.9)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

BEA UBOURG AND LES HALLES  115
















The terrace of the Café Beaubourg
star architects, Christian de 8 Forum des Halles (see left). Beneath it is Châtelet-
Portzamparc, who created the 101 Porte Berger 75001. Map 13 A2. Les-Halles, Paris’s busiest Metro
impressive Cité de la Musique in Tel 01 44 76 95 56. q Les Halles. and RER transport hub.
the Parc de la Villette (see p238). W Châtelet-Les-Halles. Open In 2010, the city, aware that
Its vast terrace is lined with 10am–8pm Mon–Sat, 11am–7pm the Forum was becoming
comfortable wicker chairs. The Sun. ∑ forumdeshalles.com known as somewhat shabby
spacious and coolly elegant and unsafe at night, announced
interior is decorated with rows of The Forum des Halles, known a major remodelling project
books, which soften its severely simply as Les Halles, was built in which, under the direction of
Art Deco ambience. The café is a 1979, amid much controversy, architect David Mangin, is now
favourite meeting point for art on the site of Paris’s famous old complete, the gardens being
dealers from the surrounding fruit and vegetable market as the last element to take shape.
galleries and Pompidou Centre part of the massive central Today, Paul Berger’s distinctive
staff. It serves light meals and redevelopment that also saw Canopy, a new, swooping steel
brunch. If the crush gets too the building of the Pompidou roof structure, welcomes visitors
much around Les Halles, the Centre (see pp110–11). Les Halles to a revamped, airier, more
Café Beaubourg is the ideal was transformed into a leisure welcoming environment in
place to soothe the nerves. complex, partly underground, which to shop, dine and watch
with shops and restaurants, a a film.
7 Forum multi-screen cinema, a swimming
pool and the fantastic Forum
des Images des Images film archive centre
2 Rue du Cinéma, Forum des Halles
75001. Map 13 A2. Tel 01 44 76 63
00. q Les Halles. W Châtelet-Les- Pygmalion by Julio
Halles. Open Collections: 1–9pm Silva in the Forum
Tue–Fri, 2–9pm Sat & Sun; Information des Halles
& Café: 12:30–9pm Tue–Fri, 2–9pm
Sat & Sun. & 7 -
∑ forumdesimages.fr
At the forum, you can choose
from thousands of cinema,
television and amateur films.
Many feature the city of Paris.
There is footage on the history
of Paris since 1895, including a
remarkable newsreel of
General de Gaulle avoiding
sniper fire during the Liberation
of Paris in 1944. There are
countless movies, such as
Truffaut’s Baisers Volés. On
Friday evenings, the forum also
hosts “Cours de Cinéma”, when
classic films are analysed. There
are also regular film festivals,
“midnight movies” screenings
and short film evenings.




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116  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA


w St-Eustache
2 Impasse St-Eustache, Pl du Jour
75001. Map 13 A1. Tel 01 42 36 31 05.
q Les Halles. W Châtelet-Les-Halles.
Open 9:30am–7pm Mon–Fri, 10am–
7:15pm Sat, 9am–7:15pm Sun. h 9
5 12.30pm & 6pm Mon–Fri, 6pm Sat,
9:30am, 11am & 6pm Sun. Organ
recitals and concerts.
∑ saint-eustache.org
With its Gothic plan and
Renaissance decoration,
A collection of handmade dolls in the Musée de la Poupée St-Eustache is one of the most
beautiful churches in Paris. Its
9 Musée de q Tour Jean interior plan is modelled on
la Poupée Sans Peur Notre-Dame, with five naves
and side and radial chapels. The
Impasse Berthaud 75003. Map 13 B2. 20 Rue Etienne-Marcel 75002. 105 years (1532–1637) it took to
Tel 01 42 72 73 11. q Rambuteau. Map 13 A1. Tel 01 40 26 20 28. complete the church saw the
Open 1–6pm Tue–Sat. Closed public q Etienne-Marcel. Open 1:30–6pm flowering of the Renaissance
hols. & 8 for groups, book in Wed–Sun. & 8 style, which is evident in the
advance. = ∑ museedela ∑ tourjeansanspeur.com arches, pillars and columns.
poupeeparis.com
The stained-glass windows
An impressive collection of hand- The Duc de Bourgogne feared in the chancel are created
made dolls, from the mid-19th reprisals after the Duc d’Orléans from cartoons by Philippe
century to the present day, is on was assassinated on his orders de Champaigne.
show in this charming museum. in 1408. To protect himself, he The church has associations
Thirty-six of the displays contain had this 27-m (88-ft) tower with many famous figures:
French dolls with porcelain heads built onto his home, the Molière was buried here; the
ranging from 1850 to 1950. Hôtel de Bourgogne, and Marquise de Pompadour,
Another 24 display win dows are moved his bedroom up to the official mistress of Louis XV,
devoted to themed exhibi tions fourth floor (reached by a was baptized here, as was
of dolls from around the world. flight of 140 steps). Cardinal Richelieu.
Father and son, Guido and
Samy Odin, who own the
museum, are at your service.
The museum shop stocks every-
thing needed to preserve and
maintain these unique works of
art, and the “doll hospital” will
repair dolls or stuffed animals.
There are also work shops for
kids on Wednesdays based
on themes con nected to
the current exhibition.
0 No. 51 Rue de
Montmorency
75003. Map 13 B1. q Réaumur-
Sébastopol. Open to the public.
This house is considered to
be the oldest in Paris. No. 51
was built in 1407 by Nicolas
Flamel, a bookkeeper and
alchemist. His house was
always open to the poor,
from whom he asked nothing
more than that they should
pray for those who were
dead. Today, the house is
a French restaurant. The ornate Renaissance interior of St-Eustache




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BEA UBOURG AND LES HALLES  117


12th century, of which only the
foundations of the bell tower
remain. The splendid rose
stained-glass windows date
from the Renaissance period.
After the Valois Court
decamped to the Louvre from
the Ile de la Cité in the 14th
century, this became the
favoured church of kings.
The church’s many historical
associations include the horrific
St Bartholomew’s Day Massacre
on 24 August 1572, the eve of
the royal wedding of Henri of
Navarre and Marguerite de Valois.
Thousands of Huguenots who
had been lured to Paris for the
wedding were murdered as the
Entrance to the Bourse du Commerce, church bell tolled. Later, after the
the old corn exchange Revolution, the church was used The Tour St-Jacques, with its
as a barn and as a police station. ornate decoration
e Bourse du Despite many restorations, it is a
Commerce jewel of Gothic architecture. y Tour St-Jacques
2 Rue de Viarmes 75001. Map 12 F2. Square de la Tour St-Jacques, corner of
Tel 08 20 01 21 12 or 01 42 33 06 67. t La Samaritaine Rue de Rivoli and Sebastopol 75004.
q Les Halles. W Châtelet-Les-Halles. Map 13 A3. q Châtelet or Hôtel
Open 8:30am–6:30pm Mon–Fri (ID 83 Rue de Rivoli 75001. Map 12 F2. de Ville. Open Gardens: year-round.
required). 8 groups of up to 10 q Pont-Neuf. Tel 01 56 81 28 40. Tower: early Jul–early Sep: 10am–5pm
people by appt. 7 ∑ sgbcp.fr Closed to the public. Fri–Sun, visits by appt, call 01 83 96
∑ projet.samaritaine.com 15 05. 8 Gardens: Fri–Sun.
Compared dismissively by Victor
Hugo to a jockey’s cap without This former department store This imposing late Gothic tower,
a peak, the old grain exchange was founded in 1900 by Ernest dating from 1523, is all that
building was France’s first iron Cognacq. Built in 1926 with a remains of an ancient church
structure. It was con structed in framework of iron and wide that was a rendezvous for
the 18th century and remodelled expanses of glass, La Samaritaine pilgrims setting out on long
in 1889. Today, its huge, domed is an outstanding example of the journeys. The church was
hall is filled with the hustle and Art Deco style. Cognacq was destroyed after the Revolution.
bustle of the Chambre de also a collector of 18th-century Earlier, Blaise Pascal, the
Commerce et d’Industrie de Paris. art, and his collection is now on 17th-century mathematician,
It is still worth entering to marvel display in the Musée Cognacq- physicist, philosopher and
at the architecture, in particular Jay in the Marais quarter (see p98). writer, used the tower for
the beautifully restored cupola The building is being experiments. Queen Victoria
and its decor. Also worth a look redeveloped to create housing, passed by on her state visit in
are the murals depicting French a hotel and shopping complex 1854, giving her name to the
trade and industry through the due for completion in 2018. nearby Avenue Victoria.
ages, which were painted in 1889
and have since been restored.
r St-Germain
l’Auxerrois
2 Pl du Louvre 75001. Map 12 F2. Tel
01 42 60 13 96. q Louvre, Pont-Neuf.
Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am–
8:30pm Sun (Jul & Aug: 9:30am–7pm
Tue–Sun). 5 various times. Concerts.
∑ saintgermainauxerrois.cef.fr
This church has been built in a
combination of Renaissance and
Gothic styles. The first church on
the site was constructed in the The St Bartholomew’s Day Massacre (c.1572–84) by François Dubois




116-117_EW_Paris.indd 117 03/04/17 10:56 am

D'ANGLAS
R U E C A M B O N
BOISSY Madeleine R RICHEPANCE LA MADELEINE
BOULEVARD DE RUE DES CAPUCINES
RU E ROYALE R ST FLORENTIN R DU MONT THABOR ST HONORE Pyramides RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS
PLACE
RUE R U E S A I N T H O N O R E VENDOME RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA
R DUPHOT
RUE DE LA SOURDIERE
RUE
Concorde R DE CASTIGLIONE R U E S T R O C H R STE ANNE VILLEDO V A L O I S
PLACE DE LA R U E D E R I V O L I RU E D 'ARGEN T E U IL R DE RICHELIEU
R CROIX DES PETITS CHAMPS
CONCORDE T E R R A S S E D E S F E U I L L A N T S AVE DE L'O PERA R MOLIERE R DE MONTPENSIER D E RUE HEROLD
Tuileries
R U E S A I N T H O N O R E
PLACE A
Pont de la Concorde JARDIN DES MALRAUX R U E RUE DU COLONEL DRIANT L O U V R E
TUILERIES
Palais-Royal
Musée du Louvre
JARDIN DU
Pont Solférino AVE DU GEN. LEMONNIER CARROUSEL CARROUSEL RUE DE RIVOLI R U E D U
R U E S T- H O N O R E
PLACE DU
T E R R A S S E D U B O R D D E L ' E A U
Q U A I D E S T U I L E R I E S
COUR
S e i n e
Rivoli
Pont Royal NAPOLEON CARREE Louvre
COUR
Quai du
JARDIN DE
Louvre Q U A I D U L O U V R E R DE L’AMIRAL DE COLIGNY
L'INFANTE
Pont du Carrousel
Passerelle des Arts
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P ARIS AREA B Y AREA  119

TUILERIES QUARTER

Located in the 1st arrondissement, the Tuileries float sailboats in the ponds. Stop at the Musée
area is classic Paris, with grand squares, iconic de l’Orangerie, or walk along the area’s main
buildings and fine-dining restaurants. Taking streets, such as Rue St-Honoré, full of
its name from the tile factories that stood on designer boutiques, and Rue de Rivoli, with
the site when Queen Catherine de Médici had its bookshops, luxury hotels and fabulous
her palace built, the Tuileries is now known views across the gardens. The Palais-Royal
for the beautiful sculpted gardens that line is worth a visit for its splendid architecture
the Seine from Place de la Concorde to the and famous courtyard, or catch a theatre
Louvre. Grab a chair and watch the children production at the Comédie Française.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Monuments and Fountains Restaurants see pp298–300
3 Palais-Royal 6 Fontaine Molière 1 Bistrot Victoires
i Banque de France 0 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel 2 Café Marly
3 Carré des Feuillants
Churches Museums and Galleries
4 La Cordonnerie
7 St-Roch 1 Musée du Louvre pp122–9 5 Les Fines Gueules
Theatres 9 Musée des Arts Décoratifs 6 Le Grand Véfour
4 Comédie Française e Galerie Nationale du 7 Kei
Jeu de Paume 8 Le Meurice
Shops r Musée de l’Orangerie 9 Verjus
2 Louvre des Antiquaires y Village Royal
q Rue de Rivoli
Squares, Parks and Gardens
5 Jardin du Palais-Royal
8 Place des Pyramides
w Jardin des Tuileries
t Place de la Concorde
u Place Vendôme
o Place des Victoires
D'ANGLAS
R U E C A M B O N
BOISSY Madeleine R RICHEPANCE LA MADELEINE See also Street Finder
BOULEVARD DE RUE DES CAPUCINES
RU E ROYALE R ST FLORENTIN R DU MONT THABOR ST HONORE Pyramides RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS
map 5–6, 11–12
PLACE
RUE R U E S A I N T H O N O R E VENDOME RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA
R DUPHOT
RUE DE LA SOURDIERE
RUE
Concorde R DE CASTIGLIONE R U E S T R O C H R STE ANNE VILLEDO V A L O I S
PLACE DE LA R U E D E R I V O L I RU E D 'ARGEN T E U IL R DE RICHELIEU
CONCORDE T E R R A S S E D E S F E U I L L A N T S AVE DE L'O PERA R MOLIERE R DE MONTPENSIER D E RUE HEROLD
R CROIX DES PETITS CHAMPS
Tuileries
R U E S A I N T H O N O R E
PLACE A
Pont de la Concorde JARDIN DES MALRAUX R U E RUE DU COLONEL DRIANT L O U V R E
TUILERIES
Palais-Royal
Musée du Louvre
JARDIN DU
Pont Solférino AVE DU GEN. LEMONNIER CARROUSEL CARROUSEL RUE DE RIVOLI R U E D U
R U E S T- H O N O R E
PLACE DU
T E R R A S S E D U B O R D D E L ' E A U
Q U A I D E S T U I L E R I E S
COUR
S e i n e
Rivoli
Pont Royal NAPOLEON CARREE Louvre
COUR
Quai du
JARDIN DE
Louvre Q U A I D U L O U V R E R DE L’AMIRAL DE COLIGNY
L'INFANTE
Pont du Carrousel
0 metres 400
0 yards 400 Passerelle des Arts
La Fontaine des Fleuves in Place de la Concorde For keys to symbols see back flap
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120  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Tuileries Quarter

Elegant squares, formal gardens, street arcades 7 St-Roch
and courtyards give this part of Paris its special The papal statue stands
character. Monuments to monarchy and the arts in this remarkably long
17th-century church,
coexist with contemporary luxury: sumptuous unusually set on a
hotels, world-famous restaurants, fashion north-south axis.
emporiums and jewellers of international St-Roch is a treasure
renown. Sandblasting and washing have given house of religious art.
a fresh glow to the façades of the Louvre and the The Paris Convention
Palais-Royal square, where Cardinal Richelieu’s and Visitors’ Bureau
creation, the Royal Palace, is now occupied by
government offices. From here, the Ministry of Metro Pyramides
Culture surveys the cleaning and restoration
of the city’s great buildings. The other former
royal palace, the Louvre, is one of the great
museums of the world.

The Normandy is RUE S T E A N N E
an elegant hotel in S
the Belle Epoque E A V
style, a form of I D E
graceful living that M D
prevailed in Paris R A E

at the turn of the Y Ľ
20th century. P
O

P
S E
E R
D A







E
U
R
RUE ST HONORE


RUE DE L’ ECHELLE
8 Place des Pyramides ANDRA
PL
Frémiet’s gilded statue of MALRAUX
Joan of Arc is the focus of
AVE DU GL. LEMONNIER RUE DE ROHAN
pilgrimage for royalists. RUE D E R I V O L I


To the Quai du
Louvre

w . Jardin des Tuileries 9 Musée des Arts Décoratifs
The Ferris wheel on Place de la Concorde over- A highlight of the museum’s
looks these formal gardens, designed by royal displays of art and design is
gardener André Le Nôtre in the 17th century. the Art Nouveau collection.




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TUILERIES QU AR TER  121


6 Fontaine Molière
Louis Visconti’s fountain is OPERA
of the famous playwright, QUARTER
who lived nearby. CHAMPS- TUILERIES
ELYSEES
QUARTER
BEAUBOURG
AND
LES HALLES
Le Grand Véfour
S e i n e
The 18th-century decor makes ST-GERMAIN-
DES-PRES
this one of the most beautiful Locator Map
restaurants in Paris. Napoleon See Central Paris Map pp16–17
and Victor Hugo were two
of the many famous people
who dined here (see p300).
RUE S T E A N N E R



U N S I E
E E 5 . Jardin du Palais-Royal
I
L P With a fountain pool and benches, the
E T garden is a city haven, bordered by arcades
H N
C O housing restaurants, art galleries and shops.
I
R M


E E S
D D I
O 4 Comédie Française
E L
E France’s national theatre is the
U U V A
R R setting for the works of great
dramatists, such as Molière.
E
D


E
U
R
PL
ANDRA
MALRAUX
RUE DE ROHAN PL DU 3 . Palais-Royal
In the 18th century, this former royal palace was
RUE D E R I V O L I
a setting for brilliant gatherings, debauchery and
PALAIS-ROYAL
gambling. Today, modern sculptures grace the square.
Metro Palais-Royal,
Musée du Louvre
2 Louvre des Antiquaires
Three floors of a former department
Key store house this chic art and antiques
supermarket for the rich collector.
Suggested route
1 . Musée du Louvre
Home to French kings for almost four
centuries, the Louvre is now a museum 0 metres 100
with one of the world’s great art collections. 0 yards 100


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122  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

1 Musée du Louvre
The Musée du Louvre, containing one of the most important art
collections in the world, has a history extending back to medieval
times. First constructed as a fortress in 1190 by King Philippe-Auguste
to protect Paris against Viking raids, it lost its imposing keep in the reign
of François I, who replaced it with a Renaissance-style building.
There after, four centuries of French kings and emperors improved and
enlarged it. A glass pyramid designed by I M Pei was added to the
main courtyard in 1989. All the galleries can be reached from here.












The east façade, facing St-Germain l’Auxerrois

KEY
1 Pavillon des Session
2 The Jardin du Carrousel, now
part of the Jardin des Tuileries, was
once the grand approach to the
Tuileries Palace which was burned
down in 1871 by the Communards.
3 The Carrousel du Louvre
underground visitors’ complex
lies beneath the Arc de Triomphe
du Carrousel.
4 The inverted glass pyramid
brings light to the subterranean
complex, echoing the museum’s
main entrance in the Cour Napoléon.
5 Cour Marly is the glass-roofed
courtyard that now houses the Marly
Horses (see p125).
6 The Petite Galerie du Louvre, in
the Richelieu Wing, has educational . Arc de Triomphe
exhibitions for children. du Carrousel
7 Cour Puget This triumphal arch was built
8 Cour Khorsabad to celebrate Napoleon’s
victories in 1805.
9 Cour Carrée
0 The Louvre of Charles V
was transformed from Philippe-
Auguste’s robust old fortress into Building the Louvre Major Alterations
a royal residence by Charles V, in Reign of François I (1515–47)
about 1360. Over many centuries, the
Louvre was enlarged by a Catherine de Médici (about 1560)
q The Salle des Caryatides takes succession of French rulers,
its name from the statues of women shown below with their dates. Reign of Henri IV (1589–1610)
created by Jean Goujon in 1550 to Reign of Louis XIII (1610–43)
support the upper gallery. Reign of Louis XIV (1643–1715)
w Sully Wing Reign of Napoleon I (1804–14)
e Cour Napoléon Reign of Napoleon III (1852–70)
r Cour Visconti-Islamic Art I M Pei (1989) (architect)
t Denon Wing




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TUILERIES QU AR TER  123

Pavillon Richelieu VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This imposing 19th-century
pavilion is part of the Practical Information
Richelieu Wing, once home Map 12 E2. Tel 01 40 20 50 50
to the Ministry of Finance or 01 40 20 53 17.
but now converted into Open 9am–6pm Wed–Mon
magnificent galleries.
(to 9:45pm Wed, Fri).
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
& (free 1st Sun of each
month Oct–Mar). Tickets can
be purchased at automatic
ticket booths located under
the Pyramid or online through
fnactickets.com, ticketmaster.fr
or ticketweb.com. 7 9 0
= ∑ louvre.fr
Transport
q Palais-Royal, Musée du Louvre.
@ 21, 24, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81,
95. W Châtelet-Les-Halles. x
Louvre. h Carrousel du Louvre
. Pyramid Entrance (entrance via Ave du General
The main entrance, designed Lemonnier); Pl du Louvre, Rue
by the architect I M Pei, was St-Honoré.
opened in 1989.







.Perrault’s Colonnade
The east façade with its
majestic rows of columns was
built by Claude Perrault, who
worked on the Louvre with
Louis Le Vau in the
mid-17th century.



















. Medieval Moats
The base of the
twin towers and the
drawbridge support
of Philippe-Auguste’s
fortress can be seen
in the excavated area.




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124  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA


The Louvre’s Collection
The Louvre’s treasures can be traced back to the collection of François I (1515–47),
who purchased many Italian paintings, including the Mona Lisa (La Gioconda).
In Louis XIV’s reign (1643–1715), there were a mere 200 works, but donations and
purchases augmented the collection. The Louvre was first opened to the public
in 1793 after the Revolution, and has been continually enriched ever since.


















The Raft of the Medusa (1819)
Théodore Géricault derived his inspiration for this gigantic
and moving work from the shipwreck of a French frigate
in 1816. The painting shows the moment when the few
survivors sight a sail on the horizon.
The Dying Slave
Michelangelo sculpted this work between
1513 and 1520 as part of a group of statues for Cour Marly
the base of the tomb of Pope Julius II in Rome.
Richelieu Wing
Main entrance

Underground visitors’
complex
- 0 9 8
= m d n







Pavillon des
Sessions
Gallery Guide
. Mona Lisa The main entrance is beneath the
Leonardo da Vinci painted this small glass pyramid. The works are displayed
portrait of a Florentine noblewoman,
known as La Gioconda, in about on four floors: the painting and sculpture
1504. It was soon regarded as the collections are arranged by country of origin. Cour Visconti-
prototype of the Renaissance portrait. There are eight departments: Near Eastern Islamic Arts
The sitter’s engaging smile has antiquities; Egyptian antiquities; Greek,
prompted endless commentary ever Etruscan and Roman antiquities; Islamic
since. The painting has its own wall art; sculptures; decorative arts; paintings;
in the Salle des Etats (Denon Wing). and prints and drawings.




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TUILERIES QU AR TER  125


The Lacemaker
In this exquisite
picture from about
1665, Jan Vermeer
gives us a glimpse
into everyday
domestic life in
Holland. The painting
came to the Louvre
in 1870.





Second floor






















. Marly Horses
Since the 19th century, these wild horses
by Guillaume Coustou have stood near
the Place de la Concorde. Replicas have
First floor replaced them – the originals are now in
a glass-covered courtyard in the Louvre.
Cour Puget
Cour Khorsabad . Venus de Milo
Found in 1820 on the island of Milos
Cour Napoléon in Greece, this ideal of feminine
beauty was made in the Hellenistic
Age at the end of the 2nd century BC.


Sully Wing

Key to Floorplan
Painting
Objets d’art (Decorative Arts)
Sculpture
Antiquities
Cour Carrée Ground floor Non-exhibition space




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126  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA


Exploring the Louvre’s Collections
It is important not to underestimate the size of these vast Conversation in a Park (around
collections, and useful to set a few viewing priorities before 1746), Sir Joshua Reynolds’
starting. The collection of European paintings (1200–1850) is Master Hare (1788) and France’s
only painting by JMW Turner,
comprehensive, and 40 per cent of the works are by French Landscape with a River and a
artists, while the selection of sculptures is less complete. The Distant Bay (around 1840).
museum’s antiquities – Oriental, Islamic, Egyptian, Greek, Many of the masterworks
Etruscan and Roman – are of world renown and offer the in the Spanish collection
visitor an unrivalled range of objects. The objets d’art on depict the tragic side of life:
display are very varied and include furniture and jewellery. El Greco’s Christ on the Cross
Adored by Donors (1576) and
Francisco de Zurbarán’s Lying-in-
State of St Bonaventura (about
1629), with its dark-faced corpse,
are two of the Louvre’s prize
pieces. The subject of José de
Ribera’s Club-Footed Boy (1642)
is a beggar boy, who carries a
scrap of paper requesting alms.
Portraits by Goya from the late
18th and early 19th century are
in a lighter vein.
The museum’s large collection
of Italian paintings covers the
period 1200 to 1800. The father
figures of the early Renaissance,
Cimabue and Giotto, are here,
as is Fra Angelico, with his
Coronation of the Virgin (around
The Fortune Teller (c. 1594) by Caravaggio 1430–1432), and Raphael, with
his stately Portrait of Baldassare
European Painting: futility of human existence. Castiglione (around 1514). There
1200 to 1850 In the Dutch collec tion, Van is also a fine portrait in profile of
Dyck’s portrait King Charles out Sigismondo Malatesta by Piero
Painting from northern Europe Hunting (1635) shows Charles I della Francesca (around 1450)
is well covered. One of the of England in all his refined and an action-packed battle
earliest Flemish works is Jan van elegance. Jacob Jordaens, best scene by Paolo Uccello. Several
Eyck’s Madonna of Chancellor known for scenes of gluttony paintings by Leonardo da Vinci –
Rolin (about 1435), which shows and lust, reveals unusual for instance, the Virgin with the
the Chancellor of Burgundy sensitivity in his Four Evangelists. Infant Jesus and St Anne – are as
kneeling in prayer before the The saucy smile of the Gypsy Girl enchanting as his Mona Lisa.
Virgin and Child. Hieronymus (1628) displays Frans Hals’ The collection of French
Bosch’s Ship of Fools (1500) is effortless virtuosity, in sharp painting ranges from the 14th
a fine, satirical account of the contrast to Vermeer’s highly century to 1848. Paintings after
finished Lacemaker. Rembrandt’s this date are housed in the
self-portraits, Disciples at
Emmaus (1648) and Bathsheba
(1654) are fine examples of
his genius.
There is relatively little
German painting, but the three
major German painters of the
15th and 16th centuries are
represented by important
works. There is a Self-portrait by
Albrecht Dürer as a young artist
of 22 (1493), a Venus by Lucas
Cranach (1529) and a portrait of
the great humanist scholar
Erasmus by Hans Holbein. Works
Portrait of Erasmus (1523) by by English artists include Gilles or Pierrot (c. 1717) by
Hans Holbein Thomas Gainsborough’s Jean-Antoine Watteau




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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Flashmap follow-on template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 3rd August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

TUILERIES QU AR TER  127


Leonardo da Vinci works, such as a Figure of Christ
by a 12th-century Burgundian
in France sculptor and a Head of St Peter.
Leonardo, artist, engineer, With its eight black-hooded
and scientist, was born mourners, the Tomb of Philippe
in 1452 and became a Pot (a high-ranking official in
leading figure in the Italian Burgundy) is one of the more
Renaissance. François I met unusual pieces. Diane de
Leonardo in 1515 and Poitiers, mistress of Henri II, had
invited him to live and a large figure of her namesake
work in France. The painter Diana, goddess of the hunt,
brought the Mona Lisa with installed in the courtyard of
him. Already in poor health, her castle west of Paris. It is
he died three years later in now in the Louvre.
the arms of the king.
Self-portrait (early 16th century) The works of Pierre Puget
(1620–94), the great sculptor
from Marseille, have been
Musée d’Orsay (see pp146–9). European Sculpture: assembled inside a glass-
Outstanding early works are 1100 to 1850 covered courtyard, Cour Puget.
Jean Fouquet’s Portrait of Charles They include a figure of Milo of
VIII (around 1450) and Gabrielle Early Flemish and German Crotona, the Greek athlete who
d’Estrée, mistress of Henri IV, in sculpture in the collection has got his hands caught in the cleft
her bathtub with her sister many masterpieces, such as of a tree stump and was eaten
(1594). From the 16th and Tilman Riemenschneider’s Virgin by a lion. The wild horses of
17th centuries there are several of the Annunciation from the Marly now stand in the glass-
splendid works by Georges end of the 15th century and an roofed Cour Marly, surrounded
de la Tour. unusual life-size, nude figure of by other masterpieces of French
That great 18th-century the penitent Mary Magdalen by sculpture, including Houdon’s
painter of melancholy, Jean Gregor Erhart (early 16th early 19th-century busts of
Watteau, is represented, as is century). An ornate gilded- Diderot and Voltaire, and two
J H Fragonard, master of the wood altarpiece of the same equestrian pieces by Coysevox.
Rococo. His delightfully frivolous period exemplifies Flemish The Italian sculpture collec-
subjects are evident in The church art. Another important tion includes pre-Renaissance
Bathers from 1770. In stark work of Flemish sculpture is work by Duccio and Donatello,
contrast is the Classicism of Adrian de Vries’ long-limbed and later masterpieces such
Nicolas Poussin and the history Mercury and Psyche from 1593, as Michelangelo’s Slaves and
painting of JL David. Most of which was originally made for Cellini’s Fontainebleau Nymph.
JD Ingres’ work is in the Musée the court of Rudolph II in
d’Orsay, but the Louvre kept the Prague. The French section Tomb of Philippe Pot (late 15th century) by
erotic Turkish Bath of 1862. opens with early Romanesque Antoine le Moiturier






























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128  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA


Near Eastern, Egyptian, couples. The earliest
Greek, Etruscan and sculpture dates from
Roman Antiquities 2500 BC, the latest
from 1400 BC.
The range of antiquities in the From the New
Louvre is impressive. There are Kingdom (1555–
objects from the Neolithic 1080 BC), a special
period (about 6000 BC) to the crypt dedicated to
fall of the Roman Empire. the god Osiris
Important works of Mesopota­ contains some
mian art include the seated colossal sarcophagi,
figure of Ebih­iI, from 2400 BC, and a large number
and several portraits of Gudea, of mummified
Prince of Lagash, from about animals.
2255 BC. A black basalt block Some smaller
bearing the code of the Baby­ objects of
lonian King Hammurabi, from considerable charm
about 1700 BC, is one of the include a 29­cm
world’s oldest legal documents. (11­inch) headless
The warlike Assyrians body of a woman,
are represented by delicate sensually outlined
carvings and a spectacular by the transparent
reconstruction of part of Sargon veil of her dress Winged Bull with Human Head from 8th century BC,
II’s (722–705 BC) and thought found in Khorsabad, Assyria
palace with its huge, to be Queen
winged bulls. A fine Nefertiti (about century BC), there are several
example of Persian 1365–1349 BC). fine male torsos and heads such
art is the enamelled The department of Greek, as the Laborde Head. This head
brickwork depicting Roman and Etruscan antiquities has been identified as part of
the king of Persia’s contains a vast array of the sculpture that once
personal guard of fragments, among them some decorated the west pediment of
archers (5th century exceptional pieces. There is a the Parthenon in Athens.
BC). It decorated his large, geometric head from the The two most famous Greek
palace at Susa. Cyclades (2700 BC) and an statues in the Louvre, the
Most Egyptian elegant, swan­necked bowl, Winged Victory of Samothrace
art was made for quite modern in its and the Venus de Milo (see p125),
the dead, who unadorned simplicity. It belong to the Hellenistic period
were provided is hammered out of a (late 3rd to 2nd century BC),
with the things single gold sheet and when more natural­looking
that they dates from about human forms were beginning
needed for 2500 BC. The to be produced.
the after­life. Archaic Greek The undisputed star of the
It often included period, from the Etruscan collection is the
vivid images 7th to the 5th century terracotta Sarcophagus of the
of daily life in BC, is represented by the
ancient Egypt. Winged Victory of Auxerre Goddess, one of
One example is Samothrace (Greece, late the earliest­known
the tiny funeral 3rd–early 2nd century BC) pieces of Greek
chapel built for a sculpture, and the Hera
high official in about 2500 BC. of Samos from the Ionian
It is covered with exquisite Islands. From the height
carvings: men in sailing ships, of the Classical Greek
catching fish, tending cattle period (about the 5th
and fowl.
It is also possible to gain
insights into family life in
ancient Egypt through a
number of life­like funeral
portraits, like the squatting
scribe, and several
sculptures of married
Etruscan sarcophagus
(6th century BC)




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TUILERIES QU AR TER  129


Cenestian Couple, who appear Many of these precious objects
as though they are attending were in the Abbey of St-Denis,
an eternal banquet. where the kings of France were
The sculptures in the Roman crowned. Long before the
section demonstrate the great Revolution, a regular flow of
debt owed to the art of ancient visitors had made it something
Greece. There are many fine of a museum. After the
pieces: a bust of Agrippa, a Revolution, all the objects were
basalt head of Livia, the wife of removed and presented to the
Augustus, and a splendid, nation. Much was lost or stolen
powerful bronze head of during the move but what
Emperor Hadrian from the 2nd remains is still outstanding.
century AD. This has the look of The treasures include a
a true portrait, unlike so many serpentine stone plate from
Imperial heads which are the 1st century AD with a 9th-
uninspired and impersonal. century border of gold and
precious stones. (The plate itself
is inlaid with eight golden dol-
phins.) There is also a porphyry
vase which Suger, Abbot of The Eagle of Suger (mid-12th century)
St-Denis, had mounted in gold
in the shape of an eagle, and Isaac de Camondo. On display
the golden sceptre made for are important pieces by excep-
King Charles V in about 1380. tionally prominent furniture-
The French crown jewels makers such as André-Charles
include the coronation crowns Boulle, cabinet-maker to Louis
of Louis XV and Napoleon, XIV, who worked at the Louvre
sceptres, swords and other in the late 17th to mid-18th
accessories of the corona- centuries. He is noted for his
tion ceremonies. Also on technique of inlaying copper
view is the Regent, one and tortoiseshell. From a later
of the purest diamonds in date, the curious inlaid steel and
the world. It was bought bronze writing desk, created by
in 1717 and worn by Louis Adam Weisweiler for Queen
Squatting Scribe (Egyptian, about 2500 BC) XV at his coronation in 1722. Marie-Antoinette in 1784, is one
One whole room is taken up of the more unusual pieces in
Decorative Arts with a series of tapestries called the museum’s collection.
the Hunts of Maximilian, which In 2012, the Islamic Art
The term objets d’art (art were originally executed for Department opened in the Cour
objects) covers a vast range of Emperor Charles V in 1530 after Visconti I with around 18,000
“decorative art” objects: from drawings by Bernard Van Orley. objects on display covering
jewellery, silver and glassware, The large collection of French 3,000 years of history from three
to French and Italian bronzes, furniture ranges from the 16th continents. The museum also
porcelain, snuffboxes and to the 19th centuries and is recently installed decorative
armour. The Louvre has well assembled by period, or in rooms art galleries dedicated to art
over 8,000 items, from many devoted to donations by distin- objects from the reign of Louis
ages and regions. guished collectors such as XIV and the 18th century.
The Glass Pyramid
Plans for the modernization and expansion
of the Louvre were first conceived in 1981.
They included the transfer of the Ministry of
Finance from the Richelieu wing of the Louvre
to offices elsewhere, and a new main
entrance to the museum. A Chinese-
American architect, I M Pei, was chosen to
design the changes. He designed the pyramid
as both the focal point and entrance to the
Louvre. Made out of glass, it enables the
visitor to see the historic buildings that
surround it while allowing light down into the
underground visitors’ reception area.






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130  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

2 Louvre des
Antiquaires
2 Pl du Palais-Royal 75001. Map 12 F2.
Tel 01 42 97 27 27. q Palais-Royal.
Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sun. 0 -
See Shopping p328. ∑ louvre-
antiquaires.com
A large department store – the
Grands Magasins du Louvre –
was converted at the end of
the 1970s into this three-floor
collection of art galleries and
antique shops. Few bargains are
found here, but the 250 shops
of this chic market provide
clues about what nouveaux Colonnaded façade of the Comédie Française
riches collectors are seeking.
Philippe, one of whose André Malraux, sits France’s
librarians was Alexandre Dumas. national theatre. The company
3 Palais-Royal The building escaped the has its roots partly in Molière’s
flames of the 1871 uprising. 17th-century players. In the
Pl du Palais-Royal 75001. Map 12 E1.
q Palais-Royal. Closed to the public. After being restored again, foyer is the armchair in which
∑ palais-royal.monuments. between 1872 and 1876, the Molière collapsed, dying, on
nationaux.fr palace reverted to the state, stage in 1673 (ironically
and it now houses both the while he was
This former royal palace has Council of State, the supreme performing
had a turbulent history. Starting legal body for administrative Le Malade
out in the early 17th century matters, and its more recent Imaginaire –
as Richelieu’s Palais Cardinale, “partner”, the Constitutional The Hypochon-
it passed to the Crown on his Council. Another wing of the driac). Since
death and was the child hood palace is occupied by the the company’s
home of Louis XIV. Under the Ministry of Culture. founding in
control of the 18th-century 1680 by Louis
royal dukes of Orléans, it was XIV, the A stone plaque to
the scene of brilliant gatherings, 4 Comédie Française theatre has Pierre Corneille
as well as periods of 1 Pl Colette 75001. Map 12 E1. enjoyed state
debauchery and gambling. Tel 0825 101 680 (tickets) or 01 44 patronage as a
The cardinal’s theatre, where 58 15 15 (info). q Palais-Royal. centre of national
Molière had performed, burned Open for performances. 7 8 & culture, and it has been
down in 1763, but was replaced ^ See Entertainment p334. based in the present building
by the Comédie Française. ∑ comedie-francaise.fr since 1799. The repertoire
After the Revolution, the includes works of Racine,
palace became a gambling Overlooking two charming, if Molière, Corneille and
house. In 1815, it was reclaimed traffic-choked, squares named Shakespeare, as well as those
by the future King Louis- after the writers Colette and of modern playwrights.

















The Palais-Royal, now the home of various government departments




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TUILERIES QU AR TER  131

5 Jardin du
Palais-Royal
6 Rue de Montpensier, Pl du Palais-
Royal 75001. Map 12 F1. Tel 01 47 03
92 16. q Palais-Royal. Open daily.
Apr–May: 7am–10:15pm; Jun–Sep:
7am–11pm (Sep: to 9:30pm); Oct–
Mar: 7:30am–8:30pm.
The present garden is about a
third smaller than the original
one, laid out by the royal
gardener for Cardinal Richelieu
in the 1630s. This is due to the
construction, between 1781
and 1784, of 60 uniform houses
bordering three sides of the
square. Today, restaurants, art
galleries and specialist shops
line the square, which has
numbered Jean Cocteau,
Colette and Jean Marais among
its famous former residents.
The courtyard contains the
controversial black-and-white
striped stone columns that form
conceptual artist Daniel Buren’s
Les Deux Plateaux. The columns
were installed in the pedestrian-
ized Palais-Royal courtyard in
1986, despite strong opposition. Vien’s St Denis Preaching to the Gauls (1767) in St-Roch
These columns are now loved by
children and skateboarders alike. 7 St-Roch Jules Hardouin-Mansart added
the large Chapelle de la Vierge
296 Rue St-Honoré 75001. Map 12 E1.
Tel 01 42 44 13 20. q Tuileries, with its richly decorated dome
Pyramides. Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun. and ceiling in the 18th century
Closed non-religious public hols. 8 and two further chapels
3pm 2nd Thu of month. 5 6:30pm extended the church to 126 m
daily, plus other times. Concerts. (413 ft), just short of Notre-
Dame. It is a treasure house of
This huge church was designed religious art, much of it from
by Lemercier, architect of the now-vanished churches and
Louvre, and its foundation stone monasteries. It also contains
was laid by Louis XIV in 1653. the tombs of the playwright
Pierre Corneille, the royal
gardener André Le Nôtre and
the philosopher Denis Diderot.
The façades reveal marks of
Napoleon’s attack, in 1795,
Statue in the Jardin du Palais-Royal on royalist troops who were
defending the church steps.
6 Fontaine Molière
8 Place des
Rue de Richelieu 75001. Map 12 E1. Pyramides
q Palais-Royal.
75001. Map 12 E1. q Tuileries,
France’s most famous play- Pyramides.
wright lived near here, in a
house on the site of No. 40 Joan of Arc, wounded nearby
Rue de Richelieu. The fighting the English in 1429, is
19th-century fountain is by honoured by a 19th-century
Louis Visconti, who also equestrian statue by the sculptor
designed Napoleon’s tomb at Emmanuel Frémiet. The statue
Les Invalides (see pp188–9). Seated statue of Molière is a rallying point for royalists.




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132  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

9 Musée des Arts
Décoratifs
Palais du Louvre, 107–111 Rue de
Rivoli 75001. Map 12 E2. Tel 01 44 55
57 50. q Palais-Royal, Tuileries.
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun (until 9pm
Thu for temporary exhibitions); last
adm 30 min before closing. Library:
Tel 01 44 55 59 36. Open 10am–6pm
Mon–Fri (from 1pm Mon & Thu).
Closed public hols. & 7 8 0 =
∑ lesartsdecoratifs.fr
Spread out over five floors and
100 rooms, this museum is in Lemot’s Restoration group of statues with the gilded figure of Victory
the Palais du Louvre’s western
wing, the Pavillon de Marsan. lovely views over the Jardin Napoleon after his victory at
It offers an eclectic display of des Tuileries. Dual tickets Rivoli, in 1797, this majestic
decorative and ornamental art can be purchased that allow street completed the link
and design from the Middle access to the Musée Nissim de between the Louvre and the
Ages to the present. Among the Camondo too (see pp234–5). Champs-Elysées, and became
highlights are the Art Nouveau an important artery as well
and Art Deco rooms, jewellery as an elegant centre for
and Gallé glass. The doll 0 Arc de Triomphe commerce. The Tuileries walls
collection is remarkable. du Carrousel were replaced by railings and
The Galerie des Bijoux is the whole area opened up.
particularly interesting, with a Pl du Carrousel 75001. Map 12 E2. Today, along the Rue de
huge collection of more than q Palais-Royal. Rivoli, there are makers of
1,300 pieces, from medieval expensive men’s shirts and
brooches to Cartier designs. Built by Napoleon in 1806–8 bookshops towards the Place
The Fashion and Textiles as an entrance to the former de la Concorde, and popular
department houses more than Palais des Tuileries, this vast department stores near
150,000 pieces – costumes, arch’s marble columns are Châtelet and Hôtel de Ville.
accessories and textiles – topped by Grande Armée Angélina’s, at No. 226, is said
spanning from the 3rd century soldiers. They replaced the to serve the best hot chocolate
to the present day. Past Horses of St Mark’s which were in Paris (see p311).
exhibitions have included returned to Venice in 1815.
a tribute to Christian Lacroix,
with a retrospective of his w Jardin des
couture creations. q Rue de Rivoli Tuileries
With a catalogue featuring 75001. Map 11 C1 & 13 A2. q Louvre,
more than 40,000 historic Palais-Royal, Tuileries, Concorde. Pl de la Concorde 75001. Map 12 D1.
posters dating from the 18th Tel 01 40 20 90 43. q Tuileries,
century to 1949, the museum’s The long arcades with their Concorde. Open Apr–May & Sep:
Advertising and Graphic Design shops, topped by Neo-Classical 7am– 9pm; Jun–Aug: 7am–11pm;
department brings together apartments, date back to the Oct–Mar: 7:30am–7:30pm.
thousands of objects linked early 18th century, though
to advertising as well as films. they were only finished in These formal gardens were
The museum’s restaurant offers the 1850s. Commissioned by once the gardens of the old
Palais des Tuileries. They are an
integral part of the landscaped
area running parallel to the
Seine from the Louvre to the
Champs-Elysées and the Arc
de Triomphe.
The gardens were laid out
in the 17th century by André
Le Nôtre, royal gardener to
Louis XIV. Restoration created
an additional garden as well
as filling the entire gardens
with striking sculptures. A
staggering 125,000 plants
The formal gardens of Jardin des Tuileries are replanted annually.




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TUILERIES QU AR TER  133

e Galerie Nationale
du Jeu de Paume
Jardin des Tuileries, 1 Pl de la
Concorde 75008. Map 11 C1. Tel 01
47 03 12 50. q Concorde. Open
11am–7pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm Tue).
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec as well
as in between exhibitions. & ^ 7
8 - = 9 ∑ jeudepaume.org
The Jeu de Paume – or réal
tennis court – was built by
Napoleon III in 1851. When
réal (royal) tennis was replaced
in popularity by lawn tennis,
the court was used to exhibit Place de la Concorde, dominated by the 3,200-year-old obelisk from Luxor
art. Eventually, an Impressionist
museum was founded here. complemented well by the t Place de la
In 1986, the collection moved outstanding Walter-Guillaume Concorde
to the Musée d’Orsay (see collection of artists of the
pp146–9). The Jeu de Paume Ecole de Paris, from the late 75008. Map 11 C1. q Concorde.
now houses the Centre Impressionist era to the inter-
National de la Photo graphie, war period. This is a remark able One of the most magnificent
and shows exhibitions of concentration of masterpieces, and historic squares in the
con temporary art. including a room of dramatic whole of Europe, Place de la
works by Soutine and some Concorde covers more than
r Musée de 14 works by Cézanne – still lifes, 8 ha (20 acres) in the middle
of Paris. Starting out as Place
portraits (Madame Cézanne)
l’Orangerie and landscapes, such as Dans Louis XV, for displaying a statue
le Parc du Château Noir. of the king, it was built in the
Jardin des Tuileries, Pl de la Concorde Pierre-Auguste Renoir is mid-18th century by architect
75001. Map 11 C1. Tel 01 44 77 80 07.
q Concorde. Open 9am–6pm represented by 27 canvases, Jacques-Ange Gabriel, who
Wed–Mon (last adm: 5:15pm). including Les Fillettes au Piano chose to make it an open
Closed 1 May, 14 Jul morning & (Young Girls at the Piano). There octagon with only the north
25 Dec. & 7 8 by appt. = 9 are early Picassos, works by side containing mansions. In
∑ musee-orangerie.fr Henri Rousseau – notably the square’s next incarnation,
La Carriole du Père Junier (Old as the Place de la Révolution,
Claude Monet’s crowning Junier’s Cart) – Matisse and a the statue was replaced by the
work, the water lily series, or portrait of Paul Guillaume by guillotine. The death toll in the
Nymphéas, can be found here. Modigliani. All are bathed in square in two and a half years
The series was painted in his the natural light that flows was 1,119, including Louis XVI,
garden at Giverny, near Paris, through the window. Temp- Marie-Antoinette (who died in
and presented to the public orary exhibitions are shown view of the secret apartment
in 1927. This superb work is on the lower ground floor. she kept at No. 2 Rue Royale)
and the revolutionary leaders
Danton and Robespierre.
In the spirit of reconciliation,
the square was then renamed
Concorde (originally by
chastened Revolutionaries).
Its grandeur was enhanced
in the 19th century by the
3,200-year-old Luxor obelisk,
two fountains and eight statues
personifying French cities. It
has become the culminating
point of triumphal parades
down the Champs-Elysées
each 14 July, most notably on
the memorable Bastille Day of
1989 when the Revolution’s
bicentenary was celebrated
by a million people, and
Monet’s water lilies, on display in the Musée de l’Orangerie many world leaders.




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134  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

i Banque
antique glass and silverware
were on display. Nowadays, chic de France
shoppers flock in droves to the
designer boutiques that are 31 Rue Croix des Petits Champs
75001. Map 12 F1. q Palais Royal.
here, such as Chanel, Dior and Open for Sat morning tours led by the
Eric Bompard Cashmere, or they Paris Historique historical society, tel:
stop by for a coffee break in the 01 48 87 74 31. Open to the public
upmarket café Le Village. 10am–7pm for Heritage Days in Sep.
Founded by Napoleon in 1800,
Colonnaded entrance to the Village Royale u Place Vendôme France’s central bank is housed
in a building intended for quite
y Village Royal 75001. Map 6 D5. q Tuileries. different purposes. The 17th-
Perhaps the best example of century architect François
75008. Map 5 C5. q Madeleine.
Galerie Royale: Open 8am–8.30pm, 18th-century elegance in the
boutiques 10am–7pm Mon–Sat. city, the architect Jules Napoleon’s statue in
Closed public hols. Hardouin-Mansart’s royal Place Vendôme
square was begun in 1698. The
This delightful enclave of original plan was to house
18th-century town houses academies and embassies
sits discreetly between the behind the arcaded façades.
Rue Royale and the Rue Boissy However, bankers moved in
d’Anglas. The Galerie Royale is and created opulent homes.
the former home of the Duchess Miraculously, the square has
d’Abrantès. It was converted in remained virtually intact, and is
1994 by architect Laurent home to jewellers and bankers.
Bourgois, who has combined Among the famous, Frédéric
both classical and modern Chopin died here in 1848 at
elements in superb style. The No. 12 and César Ritz
village was formerly the home established his famous hotel
of glassworkers and silversmiths, at the turn of the 20th century
and for a while examples of at No. 15.

Formal Gardens in Paris For the past 300 years, the main
formal gardens in Paris have been
open to the public and are a firm
fixture in the city’s life. The Jardin
des Tuileries (see p132) is a beautiful
extension of the Louvre, with
ongoing replanting; the Jardin
du Luxembourg (see p174), the
private garden of the French
Senate, is still beloved of Left
Bankers; and the Jardin du Palais-
Royal (see p131) is enjoyed by those
who seek peace and privacy.
French landscaping was raised
to an art form in the 17th century,
thanks to Louis XIV’s talented
landscaper André Le Nôtre, who
created the gardens of Versailles
(see pp250–51). He achieved a
brilliant marriage between the
traditional Italian Renaissance
garden and the French love of
rational design.
The role of the French garden
architect was not to tend nature
but to transform it, pruning and
planting to create leafy sculptures
out of trees, bushes and hedges.
Complicated geometrical designs
that were created in beds and
The South Parterre at Versailles (see pp250–51) paths were interspersed with





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Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

TUILERIES QU AR TER  135


Jules Hardouin-Mansart to
display the statue to its
best advantage. Unfortunately,
the 1792 mobs were less
sycophantic and tore down the
statue. A replacement, of a
different style, was erected in
1822, to the detriment of the
whole system of proportions
of buildings-to- statue. Yet
the square retains much of the
original design. The site of
Thierry Mugler’s first boutique, it
has become known as a fashion
hub; major names such as Kenzo
The long Galerie Dorée in the Banque de France and Cacharel can be found here.
Mansart designed this mansion o Place des
for Louis XIII’s Secretary of State, Victoires
Louis de la Vrillière, with the
splen did 50-m (164-ft) long 75002. Map 12 F1. q Palais-Royal.
Galerie Dorée specially created for
hang ing his great collection of This circle of elegant mansions
historical paintings. The house was built in 1685 solely to offset
was later sold to the Comte de the statue of Louis XIV by
Toulouse, son of Louis XIV and Desjardins, which was placed in
Madame de Montespan. It the middle, with torches burning
was reconstructed in the 19th day and night. The proportions
century after the Revolution. The of the build ings and even the
bank’s most famous alumnus is arrangement of the surrounding
Jacques Delors, president of the streets were all designed by
European Commission 1985–94. the architect and courtier Louis XIV on Place des Victoires

much land belonged to his host,
and therefore establishing his
undoubted wealth. So, early on
the formal garden became a
status symbol, and it still is. This is
obvious in both private gardens
and in grand public projects.
Napoleon Bonaparte completed
his vista from the Jardin des
Tuileries with a triumphal arch.
The late President Mitterrand
applied the principle in building
his Grand Arche de la Défense
(see pp42–3, 248) along the same
axis as the Tuileries and Arc
de Triomphe.
But formal gardens were also
made to be enjoyed. People in
the 17th century believed that
A Bagatelle garden with floral colour (see p247) walking in the fresh air kept
them in good health. What more
pebbles and carefully thought-out of a formal garden was from the perfect spot than a formal
splashes of floral colour. Symmetry first floor of the château, from garden bedecked with statues
and harmony were the land- which the combination of and fountains for additional
scaper’s watchwords, a sense of boxwood hedges, flowers and entertainment. The old and
grandeur and magnificence his gravel came together in an intricate, infirm could be carried around in
ultimate goal. In the 17th century, abstract pattern, a blossoming sedan chairs and people could
as now, French formal gardens tapestry that complemented meet one another around a
served two purposes: as a setting the château’s interior. Paths of boxwood hedge or on a stone
or backdrop for a château or palace, trees drew the eye into infinity, bench under the marble gaze
and for enjoyment. The best view reminding the onlooker of how of the goddess Diana.





134-135_EW_Paris.indd 135 03/04/17 10:56 am

Port de
Solférino
Pont Solférino
QUAI A. FRANCE
Assemblée Seine
Nationale PLACE H DE
MONTHER- Musée
LANT Musée d’Orsay
RUE DE SOLFERINO R DE BELLECHASSE R U E D E L I L L E Pont Royal
d'Orsay
BOULEVARD
BAC
R U E D E
ST
RUE QUAI VOLTAIRE Pont du Carrousel St-Germain
des-Prés
Solférino L ’ U N I V E R RUE DU DE RUE DE BEAUNE R U E D E L I L L E QUAI MALAQUAIS Passerelle des Arts
PLACE DE
RUE DU BAC S I T E VERNEUIL L’INSTITUT QUAI DE CONTI
SQUARE
Rue R U E D E S S A I N T S P E R E S G PIERNE
GERMAIN
PLACE
du Bac ST THOMAS
D'AQUIN RUE DU PRE AUX CLERCS R U E R U E B O N A P A R T E R GUENEGAUD
R DE LUYNES BLVD SAINT GERMA R ST BENOîT R DE L'ABBAYE R U E M A Z A R I N E RUE D AUPHINE QUAI DES GRANDS AUGUSTINS Michel
J A C O B
Pont-St
R VISCONTI RUE DE S
R DE
R DES SAINTS PERES R DU DRAGON IN St-Germain- Mabillon R DE BUCI R ST ANDRE DES ARTS R SEGUIER Michel
SAVOIE
R DE L'ECHAUDÉ EINE
St-
R DE RENNES
des-Prés
R SUGER
R DE L’ECOLE DE MEDICINE S A I N T M I C H E L
RUE DE GRENELLE
RUE DA NTON
B OU L EV A R D RAS P AIL
Sèvres RUE DU FOUR BLVD SAINT GERMAIN Cluny la
Babylone St- R DES CANETTES R MABILLON Odéon
Sulpice Sorbonne
R DU VIEUX COLOM BIER
CONDE R DE L'ODEON
DE RUE MONSIEUR LE PRINCE
RUE RACINE
RUE PLACE DE
BOULEVARD
L'ODEON
R SAINT S ULPICE RUE DE TOURNON
RUE DE MEDICIS
136-137_EW_Paris.indd 136 03/04/17 10:56 am

P ARIS AREA B Y AREA  137

ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES

The intellectuals of the 1950s may have most celebrated museum. On Rue Bonaparte
left, but this area is still renowned for its is the prestigious Ecole Nationale Supérieure
youthful student atmosphere and literary des Beaux-Arts, where many famous artists
traditions. The bookstores, museums, art studied. Rue de Seine is lined with charming
galleries and historic cafés – such as Café restaurants and contains many high-end
de Flore, Les Deux Magots and Le Procope – galleries where the smart set purchase their
are now thronged by tourists, fashionistas art. Window displays of grand couturiers
and publishing executives. compete against one another on Boulevard
The Musée d’Orsay, housed in a former St-Germain and adjacent streets, where
railway station, is the neighbourhood’s shoppers go looking for sales, or soldes.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Churches Restaurants see pp303–5
2 Palais Abbatial 1 St-Germain-des-Prés 1 Alcazar
7 Boulevard St-Germain Theatres 2 Le Balto
8 Rue du Dragon q Odéon Théâtre de l’Europe 3 Bistrot de Paris
0 Rue de l’Odéon 4 Les Bouquinistes
w Cour de Rohan Historic Cafés and Restaurants 5 Le Comptoir du Relais
e Cour du Commerce St-André 4 Les Deux Magots 6 L’Epigramme
t Académie Française 5 Café de Flore 7 Kitchen Galerie Bis
y Ecole Nationale Supérieure 6 Brasserie Lipp 8 Restaurant L’AG
des Beaux-Arts 9 Le Procope 9 Shu
u Hôtel Feydeau de Brou Museums and Galleries 10 Ze Kitchen Galerie
i Quai Voltaire
3 Musée Eugène Delacroix
r Musée de la Monnaie
o Musée d’Orsay pp146–9
p Musée Nationale de la
Port de Légion d’Honneur
Solférino
Pont Solférino
QUAI A. FRANCE
Assemblée Seine
Nationale PLACE H DE
MONTHER- Musée
LANT Musée d’Orsay
d'Orsay
RUE DE SOLFERINO R DE BELLECHASSE R U E D E L I L L E Pont Royal
BOULEVARD
R U E D E
RUE BAC QUAI VOLTAIRE Pont du Carrousel St-Germain See also Street Finder
ST
des-Prés
Solférino L ’ U N I V E R RUE DU DE RUE DE BEAUNE R U E D E L I L L E QUAI MALAQUAIS Passerelle des Arts map 11–12
PLACE DE
RUE DU BAC S I T E VERNEUIL L’INSTITUT QUAI DE CONTI
SQUARE
Rue R U E D E S S A I N T S P E R E S G PIERNE
GERMAIN
PLACE
du Bac ST THOMAS
D'AQUIN RUE DU PRE AUX CLERCS R U E R U E B O N A P A R T E R GUENEGAUD
R DE LUYNES BLVD SAINT GERMA R ST BENOîT R DE L'ABBAYE R U E M A Z A R I N E RUE D AUPHINE QUAI DES GRANDS AUGUSTINS Michel
J A C O B
Pont-St
R VISCONTI RUE DE S
R DE
R DES SAINTS PERES R DU DRAGON IN St-Germain- Mabillon R DE BUCI R ST ANDRE DES ARTS R SEGUIER Michel
SAVOIE
R DE L'ECHAUDÉ EINE
St-
des-Prés
R DE RENNES
R SUGER
R DE L’ECOLE DE MEDICINE S A I N T M I C H E L
RUE DA NTON
RUE DE GRENELLE
B OU L EV A R D RAS P AIL
Sèvres RUE DU FOUR BLVD SAINT GERMAIN Cluny la
Babylone St- R DES CANETTES R MABILLON Odéon
Sulpice Sorbonne
CONDE R DE L'ODEON
R DU VIEUX COLOM BIER
DE RUE MONSIEUR LE PRINCE
RUE RACINE
RUE PLACE DE
L'ODEON
R SAINT S ULPICE RUE DE TOURNON
0 metres 400 BOULE VAR D
0 yards 400 RUE DE MEDICIS
The clock in the main hall of the Musée d’Orsay For additional keys to symbols see back flap
136-137_EW_Paris.indd 137 03/04/17 10:56 am

138  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: St-Germain-des-Prés

After World War II, St-Germain-des-Prés became
synonymous with intellectual life centred on bars and
cafés. Philosophers, writers, actors and musicians
mingled in the cellar nightspots and brasseries, where
existentialist philosophy co-existed with American jazz.
The area is now smarter than in the heyday of Jean-
Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, the haunting
singer Juliette Greco and the New Wave film-makers.
The writers are still around, enjoying the pleasures of 4 Les Deux Magots
sitting in Les Deux Magots, Café de Flore and other The café is famous for the patronage of
haunts. The 17th-century buildings have survived, celebrities such as Ernest Hemingway.
but signs of change are evident in the plethora of
affluent shops dealing in antiques, books and fashion.




R U E B O N A PA R T E









5 Café de Flore
In the 1950s, French intellectuals
wrestled with new philosophical
ideas in the Art Deco interior of
R U E D U D R A G O N R U E D E R E N N E S B L V D S T - G E R M A I N
the café.
R U E D U S A B O T R U E B O N A PA R T E




R U E D U F O U R Metro St-Germain-
des-Prés






6 Brasserie Lipp
Colourful ceramics decorate this
famous brasserie once frequented
by politicians.
1.St-Germain-des-Prés 7.Boulevard St-Germain
Descartes and Casimir, king of Poland, Café terraces, boutiques, cinemas,
who became abbot of St-Germain restaurants and bookshops
in 1669, are among the notables characterize the central section
buried here in Paris’s oldest church. of the Left Bank’s main street.




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ST-GERM AIN-DES-PRES  139


Picasso’s sculpture Homage to TUILERIES
Apollinaire is a tribute to the artist’s QUARTER BEAUBOURG
AND
friend, the poet Guillaume Apollinaire. LES HALLES
S e i n e
It was erected in 1959, near the Café ST-GERMAIN-
de Flore, where the poet held court. INVALIDES DES-PRES ILE DE LA
CITE
AND EIFFEL
TOWER
QUARTER
LUXEMBOURG
QUARTER LATIN
QUARTER
Locator Map
See Central Paris Map pp16–17
3. Musée Eugène Key
Delacroix
Here, Delacroix created Suggested route
the splendid mural,
Jacob Wrestling, for St-
Sulpice (see p174). 0 metres 100
0 yards 100
R U E B O N A PA R T E old-fashioned street lamps and shady
Rue de Fürstenberg is a tiny square with
trees. It is often used as a film setting.



R U E M A Z A R I N E





Rue de Buci was for centuries
an important Left Bank street
and the site of some real
tennis courts. It now holds
R U E D E B U C I a lively market every day.
LE CHATEAU
RUE BOURBON

B L V D S T - G E R M A I N

Metro St-Germain- R U E D E M O N T FA U C O N R U E D E S E I N E R U E D E L A N C I E N N E C O M E D I E
des-Prés 2 Palais Abbatial
This was the residence of
R U E M A B I L L O N 1789 Revolution.
abbots from 1586 till the
Metro Metro
Mabillon R U E F E L I B I E N Odéon
CARREFOUR D E L,O D E O N




Marché St-Germain is an old covered
food market which opened in 1818, Danton’s statue (1889),
taking over the site of a former by Auguste Paris, is a tribute
fairground (see p331). to the Revolutionary leader.




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140  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

1 St-Germain-des- this area. The first-floor apart-
Prés ment and garden studio now
form a national museum, where
3 Pl St-Germain-des-Prés 75006. Map regular exhibitions of Delacroix’s
12 E4. Tel 01 55 42 81 10. q St- work are held. The apartment
Germain-des-Prés. Open 8am–7:45pm has a portrait of George Sand,
daily. Concerts (call ahead for times).
5 7pm Mon–Fri; 12:15pm, 7pm Sat; self-portraits, studies for future
11am, 5pm (in Spanish), 7pm Sun. 8 works and artistic memorabilia.
3pm Tue, Thu & 3rd Sun of month. Call The charm of Delacroix’s
01 55 42 81 18. = ∑ eglise-sgp.org garden is reflected in the tiny
Fürstenberg square. With its pair
This is the oldest church in Paris, of rare catalpa trees and old-
originating in 543 when King fashioned street lamps, the
Childebert built a basilica to square is one of Paris’s most
house holy relics. This became romantic corners.
a powerful Benedictine abbey, An ironwork detail from the façade of the
which was suppressed during Palais Abbatial
the French Revolution, when 4 Les Deux Magots
most of the buildings were was sold. James Pradier, the 6 Pl St-Germain-des-Prés 75006.
destroyed by a fire in 1794. One 19th-century sculp tor who was Map 12 E4. Tel 01 45 48 55 25.
of the Revolution’s most horrific famous for his female figures, q St-Germain-des-Prés. Open
episodes took established a studio here. The 7:30am–1am daily. Closed for one
place in a nearby palace is now noted for its week in Jan. ∑ lesdeuxmagots.com
monastery when mixture of building materials
318 priests were and its vertical windows. The café still trades on its
hacked to death reputation as the meeting
by the mob on 3 place of the city’s literary and
September 1792. intellectual elite. This derives
The present church from the patronage of Surrealist
dates from about artists and writers including
the 11th century Ernest Hemingway in the 1920s
and was restored in and 1930s, and existentialist
the 19th cen tury. philosophers and writers in
One of the three the 1950s.
original towers The present clientele is
survives, housing more likely to be publishers
one of the oldest or people-watchers than the
belfries in France. new Hemingway. The café’s
The interior is an Eugène Delacroix name comes from the two
Our Lady of interesting mix of wooden statues of Chinese
Consolation statue in architectural styles, 3 Musée Eugène commercial agents (magots)
St-Germain-des-Prés with some 6th- Delacroix that adorn one of the pillars.
century marble This is a good place for
columns, Gothic vaulting and 6 Rue de Fürstenberg 75006. Map 12 enjoying an old-fashioned
Romanesque arches. Famous E4. Tel 01 44 41 86 50. q St-Germain- hot chocolate and watching
tombs include those of René des-Prés, Mabillon. Open 9:30am– the world go by.
5:30pm Wed–Mon (last adm: 4:30pm).
Descartes, the poet Nicolas Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (free
Boileau, and John Casimir, king of 1st Sun of month). 8 =
Poland, who later became abbot ∑ musee-delacroix.fr
of St-Germain-des-Prés in 1669.
The leading non-conformist
Romantic painter, Eugène
2 Palais Abbatial Delacroix, known for his
passionate and highly coloured
1–5 Rue de l’Abbaye 75006. Map 12
E4. q St-Germain-des-Prés. canvases, lived and worked here
Closed to the public. from 1857 to his death in 1863.
Here, he painted The Entomb­
This brick and stone palace ment of Christ and The Way to
was built in 1586 for Charles Calvary (which now hang in
of Bourbon who was cardinal- the museum). He also created
abbot of St-Germain and, very superb murals for the Chapel of
briefly, king of France. Ten more the Holy Angels in the nearby
abbots lived here until the St-Sulpice church, which is part
Revolu tion, when the build ing of the reason why he moved to The interior of Les Deux Magots



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ST-GERM AIN-DES-PRES  141


passes the late François
Mitterrand’s private town
residence in the Rue de Bièvre,
as well as the Maubert-Mutualité
market square, the Musée de
Cluny and the Sorbonne
university, before crossing the
lively Boulevard St-Michel.
It continues past the Ecole
de Médecine and the Place
de l’Odéon to St-Germain-
des-Prés, with its historic church
Façade of the Café de Flore, former meeting place of artists, writers and philosophers and café terraces. Fashion
boutiques, cinemas, restaurants
5 Café de Flore although the experience is and bookshops give this central
more atmospheric than culinary portion its distinctive character.
172 Blvd St-Germain 75006.
Map 12 E4. Tel 01 45 48 55 26. these days. The interior is bright It is also here that one is most
q St-Germain-des-Prés. with ceramic tiles of parrots and likely to see a celebrity. The area
Open 7:30am–1:30am daily. cranes. The café sponsors a is active from midday to the
7 restricted. ∑ cafedeflore.fr prestigious literary competition, early morning hours.
the Prix Cazes, for writers under Continuing further, beyond
The classic Art Deco interior the age of 40 who have never this section the boulevard
of this café, all-red seating, received a literary award. becomes more exclusively
mahogany and mirrors, has residential and then distinctly
changed little since the 7 Boulevard political with the Ministry of
war. Like its rival Les Deux Defence and the National
Magots, Café de Flore has St-Germain Assembly buildings.
hosted most of the French 75006, 75007. Map 11 C2 & 12 D4.
intellectuals during the q Solférino, Rue du Bac, St-Germain-
post-war years. Jean-Paul Sartre des-Prés, Mabillon, Odéon. 8 Rue du Dragon
and Simone de Beauvoir 75006. Map 12 D4. q St-Germain-
developed their philosophy The Left Bank’s most celebrated des-Prés.
of existentialism here. thoroughfare, over 3 km (2 miles)
long, curves across three districts This short street, between the
from the Ile St-Louis to the Pont Boulevard St-Germain and the
de la Concorde. The architecture Carrefour de la Croix Rouge,
is homogeneous because the dates back to the Middle Ages
boulevard was another of Baron and still has houses from the
Haussmann’s bold strokes of 17th and 18th centuries. Notice
19th-century urban planning, their large doors, tall windows
but it encompasses a wide and ironwork balconies. A group
range of different lifestyles as of Flemish painters lived at No.
well as a number of religious 37 before the Revolution. The
and cultural institutions. From novelist Victor Hugo rented a
the east (the low street garret at No. 30 when he was
numbers), the boulevard a 19-year-old bachelor.
Exterior of the Brasserie Lipp
6 Brasserie Lipp
151 Blvd St-Germain 75006. Map 12 E4.
Tel 01 45 48 53 91. q St-Germain-
des-Prés. Open 8:30am–1am daily.
∑ brasserielipp.fr
This Left Bank fixture – once
popular with French politicians
and fashion gurus – combines
Alsatian beer, sauerkraut and
sausages (it was founded by
a refugee from Alsace) with
excellent coffee. Originally
opened in the late 19th century,
it is regarded by many as the
quin tessential Parisian brasserie, A plaque at No. 30 Rue du Dragon commemorating Victor Hugo’s house




140-141_EW_Paris.indd 141 03/04/17 10:56 am

142  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA


9 Le Procope
13 Rue de l’Ancienne-Comédie 75006.
Map12 F4. Tel 01 40 46 79 00.
q Odéon. Open 11:30am–
midnight daily (to 1am Thu–Sat).
∑ procope.com
Founded in 1686 by the Sicilian
Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli,
this claims to be the world’s first
coffee house. It quickly became
popular with the city’s political
and cultural elite. The rear façade of Le Procope restaurant
Its patrons have included
the philosopher Voltaire – who James Joyce’s Ulysses was first
supposedly drank 40 cups of his published in English. Adrienne
favourite mixture of coffee and Monnier’s French bookshop
chocolate every day – and the at No. 7 opposite, Les Amis
young Napoleon, who would des Livres, was frequented by
leave his hat as security while he André Gide and Paul Valéry.
went search ing for the money to
pay the bill. Le Procope is now an
18th-century-style restaurant run q Odéon Théâtre
by the famous Frères Blanc group. de l’Europe
Pl de l’Odéon 75006. Map 12
F5. Tel 01 44 85 40 40. q Odéon,
Luxembourg. Open for performances
and occasional tours; call 01 44 85 41
17 to see if one is scheduled. 0 7
= See Entertainment pp334, 336.
∑ theatre-odeon.eu The unusual middle courtyard in the
Cour de Rohan
This Neo-Classical theatre was
built in 1779 in the grounds of w Cour de Rohan
the former Hôtel de Condé. The 75006. Map 12 F4. q Odéon. Access
site had been purchased by the from the Rue du Jardinet until 8pm;
king and given to the city to 8pm–8am access from the Blvd
house the Comédie Française. St-Germain.
The premiere of The Marriage of
Figaro, by Beau marchais, took This picturesque series of three
place here in 1784. With the arrival courtyards was originally part
A young Hemingway in the 1920s of a new company in 1797, the of the 15th-century pied-à-
name of the theatre was changed terre of the archbishops of
0 Rue de l’Odéon to Odéon. In 1807, the theatre Rouen (corrupted to “Rohan”).
was consumed by fire. It was The middle courtyard is the
75006. Map 12 F5. q Odéon.
rebuilt later the same year by the most unusual. Its three-legged
Rue de l'Odéon opened in 1779 architect Jean-François Chalgrin. wrought-iron mounting block,
to improve access to the Odéon Following World War II, the known as a pas-de-mule, was
theatre, and was the first street in theatre specialized in modern used at one time by elderly
Paris to have pavements with drama. Today, plays are often women and overweight
gutters. It still has many attractive performed in foreign languages, prelates to mount their
houses and shops, most of them including English. The auditorium mules. It is probably the last
dating from the 18th century. is very impres sive, not least for mounting block left in Paris.
Sylvia Beach’s bookshop its ceiling, painted by André Overlooking the yard is the
Shakespeare & Company Masson in 1965. façade of a fine Renaissance
(see pp323–4) stood at No. 12 building, dating from the
from 1921 to 1940. She beginning of the 17th century.
befriended many struggling One of its important former
American and British writers, residents was Henri II’s
such as Ezra Pound, T S Eliot, mistress, Diane de Poitiers.
Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest The third courtyard opens
Hemingway. It was largely due on to the tiny Rue du Jardinet,
to her support – as secretary, Odéon Théâtre de l’Europe, former home of where the composer Saint-
editor, agent and banker – that the Comédie Française Saëns was born in 1835.




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ST-GERM AIN-DES-PRES  143

e Cour du the result. It was completed in
Commerce St-André 1775, and the architect, Jacques
Antoine, lived here until his death.
75006. Map 12 F4. q Odéon. Coins were minted in the
mansion until 1973, when the
No. 9 in this historic passage has process was moved to Pessac in
a particularly grisly past, because the Gironde. The minting and
it was here that Dr Guillotin is milling halls now contain the
supposed to have perfected his coin and medallion museum.
“philanthropic decapitating Centred around a tranquil
machine”. In fact, although the public space and surrounded by
idea was Guillotin’s, it was Dr artist workshops, the permanent
Louis, a Parisian surgeon, who gallery focuses on the history of
was responsible for putting the coins and minting. There are A sign for the former Mint, which is
“humane” plan into action. When also shops selling work by now a museum
the guillotine was first used for resident artisans, a gastronomic
execution in 1792, it was known restaurant run by chef Guy to 40, who are entrusted with
as a Louisette. Savoy, and a more casual café. a lifelong commitment of
working on the dictionary.
t Académie
Française y Ecole Nationale
23 Quai de Conti 75006. Map 12 E3. Supérieure des
Tel 01 44 41 43 00. q Pont-Neuf, Beaux-Arts
St-Germain-des-Prés. Open on
Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage 13 Quai Malaquais & 14 Rue Bonaparte
Days) in September or for pre- 75006. Map 12 E3. Tel 01 47 03 50 00.
arranged guided visits. q St-Germain-des-Prés. Open times
∑ academie-francaise.fr vary; groups by appt only (01 47 03
50 00). & Temporary exhibitions:
This striking Baroque edifice Tue–Fri (check website for times).
was built as a school for young 810am Mon–Fri. Book ahead. -
A print of a Revolutionary mob at noblemen in 1688 and given Library. ∑ beauxartsparis.com
a guillotine execution over to the Institut de France in
1805. Its cupola was designed The main French school of fine
r Musée de by archi tect Louis Le Vau to arts occupies an enviable
la Monnaie harmonize with the Palais position at the corner of the
du Louvre. Rue Bonaparte and the riverside
11 Quai de Conti 75006. Map 12 F3. The Académie Française Quai Malaquais. The school is
Tel 01 40 46 56 66. q Pont-Neuf, is the oldest of the five housed in several buildings,
Odéon. Open Temporary exhibitions: academies of the institute. the most imposing being the
11am–7pm daily (to 11pm Thu). Founded in 1635 by Cardinal 19th-century Palais des Etudes.
Permanent exhibition & gardens: Richelieu, it is charged with A host of budding French and
Closed until 2017. & = 8 Films.
∑ monnaiedeparis.fr regulating the French language foreign painters and architects
by deciding acceptable have crossed the large courtyard
In the late 18th century, when grammar and vocabulary, and to study in the ateliers of the
Louis XV decided to rehouse with the compilation of an school. Young American
the Mint, he launched a design official dictionary of the French archi tects, in particular, have
competition for the new build- language. From the beginning, frequented the halls since the
ing. The Hôtel des Monnaies is membership has been limited late 19th century.













The façade of the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts




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144  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA



The Celebrated Cafés of Paris One of the most enduring images
of Paris is the café scene. For the
visitor, it is the romantic vision of
great artists, writers or eminent
intellectuals consorting in one of
the Left Bank’s celebrated cafés. For
the Parisian, the café is one of life’s
constants, an everyday experience,
providing people with a place to
tryst, drink and meet friends, or to
conclude business deals, or to
simply watch the world go by.
The first café anywhere can be
traced back to 1686, when the café
Le Procope (see p142) was opened.
In the following century, cafés
became a vital part of Paris’s social
life. And with the widening of the
city’s streets, particularly during the
19th century, and the building of
Haussmann’s Grands Boulevards,
the cafés spread out onto the
pavements, evoking Emile Zola’s
comment as to the “great silent
crowds watching the street live”.
The nature of a café was
sometimes determined by the
interests of its patrons. Some were
the gathering places for those
interested in playing chess,
dominoes or billiards. Literary
Outdoor seating at the busy Café de Flore gents gathered in Le Procope
u Hôtel Feydeau i Quai Voltaire houses and for the famous
de Brou 75006 and 75007. Map 12 D3. people who lived in many of
q Rue du Bac. them, making it an especially
13 Rue de l’Université 75007. interesting and pleasant street
Map 12 D3. q Rue du Bac. Formerly part of the Quai to walk along.
Closed to the public. Malaquais, then later known as The 18th-century Swedish
the Quai des Théatins, the Quai ambassador Count Tessin lived
This fine 18th-century mansion Voltaire is now home to some of at No. 1, as did the sculptor
was originally built as two the most important antiques James Pradier, famed for his
houses in 1643 by Briçonnet. In dealers in Paris. It is also noted statues and for his wife, who
1713, they were replaced by a for its attractive 18th-century swam naked across the Seine.
hôtel, built by Thomas Gobert Louise de Kéroualle, spy for
for the widow of Denis Feydeau Louis XIV and created Duchess
de Brou. It was passed on to of Portsmouth by the infatuated
her son, Paul-Espirit Feydeau Charles II of England, lived at
de Brou, until his death in 1767. Nos. 3–5.
The hôtel then became the Famous past residents of
residence of the Venetian No. 19 included the composers
ambassador. It was occupied by Richard Wagner and Jean
Belzunce in 1787 and became Sibelius, the novelist Charles
a munitions depot during the Baudelaire and the exiled Irish
Revolution until the restoration writer and wit Oscar Wilde.
of the monarchy in 1815. The French philosopher
It once housed the Ecole Voltaire died at No. 27, the
Nationale d’Admini stration Hôtel de la Villette. St-Sulpice,
(now in Strasbourg), where the local church, refused to
many of the elite in politics, accept his corpse (on the
economics and science were grounds of his atheism) and
once students. Today, the his body was rushed into
building is used by France’s Plaque marking the house in Quai Voltaire the countryside to avoid a
famous Science Po University. where Voltaire died pauper’s grave.




144-145_EW_Paris.indd 144 25/04/16 5:03 pm

ST-GERM AIN-DES-PRES  145



and Montparnasse, become the dominant creed
where the literati of old and Jean-Paul Sartre its tiny
used to gather and charismatic leader. Sartre and
where the glitterati of his intellectual peers and
today love to be seen. followers, among them the
Before World War I, writers Simone de Beauvoir and
Montparnasse was Albert Camus, the poet Boris
haunted by hordes of Vian and the enigmatic singer
Russian rev olutionaries, Juliette Greco, gathered to work
most eminently Lenin and discuss their ideas in Les
and Trotsky, who Deux Magots (see p140) and the
whiled away their days nearby rival Café de Flore (see
in the cafés, grappling p141). The traditional habitué of
with the problems of these cafés is still to be seen,
Russia and the world albeit mixing with the
over a petit café. international jet-set and with
Entertainment in the Claude Alain café in the Rue de Seine Cultural life flourished self-publicizing intellectuals
during the 1950s in the 1920s, when hunched over their notebooks.
Surrealists, like
during Molière’s time in the 17th Salvador Dalí and Jean
century. In the 19th century, First Cocteau, dominated café
Empire Imperial guards officers life, and later when
were drawn to the Café d’Orsay American writers led by
and Second Empire financiers Ernest Hemingway and
gathered in the cafés along the F Scott Fitzgerald talked, drank
Rue de la Chaussée d’Antin. The and worked in various cafés,
smart set patronized the Café de among them La Coupole
Paris and Café Tortini, and theatre- (see p180), Le Sélect and La
goers met at the cafés around the Closerie des Lilas (see p181).
Opéra, including the Café de la Paix After the end of World War II, the
(see p217). The most famous cafés cultural scene shifted northwards Works by one of St-Germain’s elite,
are on the Left Bank, in St-Germain to St-Germain. Existentialism had Albert Camus (1913–60)
o Musée d’Orsay
See pp146–9.

p Musée Nationale
de la Légion
d’Honneur
2 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur (Parvis
du Musée d’Orsay) 75007. Map 11 C2.
Tel 01 40 62 84 25. q Solférino. W
Musée d’Orsay. Open 1–6pm Wed–Sun.
Group visits by appt on Tue. Closed
1 Jan, 1 May, 15 Aug, 1 Nov, 25 Dec. 7
= 9 ∑ musee-legiondhonneur.fr
Next to the Musée d’Orsay is the The Musée d’Orsay, converted from a railway station into a museum
truly massive Hôtel de Salm. It was
one of the last great mansions honour wear a small red rosette
to be built in the area (1782). in their buttonhole. The
The first owner was a German impressive displays of medals
count, Prince de Salm-Kyrbourg, and insignia are complemented
who was guillotined in 1794. by paintings. In one of the
Today, the building contains a rooms, Napoleon’s Legion of
museum where one can learn Honour is on display with his
all about the Legion of Honour, sword and breastplate.
a decoration launched by The museum also covers
Napoleon I. Those awarded the decorations from most parts of
the world, among them the
Napoleon III’s Great Cross British Victoria Cross and the
of the Legion of Honour American Purple Heart.




144-145_EW_Paris.indd 145 25/04/16 5:03 pm

146  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

o Musée d’Orsay

In 1986, 47 years after it had closed
as a mainline railway station, Victor
Laloux’s superb late 19th-century
building was reopened as the Musée
d’Orsay. Commissioned by the
Orléans railway company to be its
Paris terminus, it avoided demolition
in the 1970s. During the conversion, The Museum, from the Right Bank
much of the original architecture Victor Laloux designed the building as a railway
was retained. The museum was set station for the Universal Exhibition in 1900.
up to present each of the arts of the
period from 1848 to 1914 in the
context of contemporary society
and the other forms of creative
activity happening at the time. Chair by Charles
Renovations to the upper levels Rennie Mackintosh
The style developed
have expanded exhibition by Mackintosh was an
spaces to improve the attempt to express
display of works. ideas in a framework of
vertical and horizontal
forms, as in this
tearoom chair (1900).



















. The Gates of Hell (1880–1917)
Rodin included figures that he had already
created, such as The Thinker and The Kiss, in this
famous gateway.

Key to Floorplan Gallery Guide
Architecture & Decorative Arts The collection occupies three
levels. On the ground floor, there
Sculpture
are works from the mid to late
Painting before 1880
19th century. The middle level
Impressionism features Art Nouveau decorative
Neo- and Post-Impressionism art and a range of paintings
Naturalism and Symbolism and sculptures from the second
half of the 19th century to the
Art Nouveau
early 20th century, as well as The Dance (1867–8)
Symbolism (small formats) Neo-Impressionist art. The upper Carpeaux’s sculpture
Temporary exhibitions level has an outstanding caused a scandal when
Non-exhibition space collection of Impressionist art. first exhibited.

146-147_EW_Paris.indd 146 03/04/17 10:56 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 3rd September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

ST-GERM AIN-DES-PR E S  147


. Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(1863)
Manet’s painting, first Practical Information
exhibited in Napoleon III’s 1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur.
Salon des Refusés, is Map 12 D2. Tel 01 40 49 48 14
presently on display in the (groups 01 53 63 04 50).
first area of the upper level. Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sun
(9:45pm Thu) (last ticket sold
1 hour before closing; tickets
available online, combined
ticket with Musée de
l’Orangerie also available).
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
7 8 9 0 - = ^
∑ musee-orsay.fr
Upper level Transport
q Solférino. @ 24, 68, 69,
84 to Quai A France; 73 to
Rue Solférino; 63, 83, 84, 94 to
Bd St-Germain. W Musée
d’Orsay. h Rue du Bac,
Bd St-Germain.










. Dancing at the Moulin de la Galette
To capture the dappled light filtering through
the trees, Renoir painted this colourful picture
(1876) out in the open in Montmartre.
Middle level






. La Belle Angèle
This portrait (1889) by
Paul Gauguin shows the
sitter in traditional
Breton costume.







Shop

Entrance
Ground floor The Tiger Hunt by Eugène Delacroix
Painted in 1854 for a dealer named
Weill, this was described by Baudelaire
as profound, sensual and terrible.




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148  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

Exploring the Musée d’Orsay the many bronzes on show
were made from wax sculptures
The Musée d’Orsay picks up where the Louvre ends, showing found in his studio after his
a variety of art forms from 1848 to 1914. Its star attraction death. In contrast, the sculpture
is a superb collection of Impressionist art, which includes of Auguste Rodin was very
famous works by Monet, Renoir, Manet and Degas as well much in the public eye, and his
sensuous and forceful work
as Neo-Impressionist works by pointillist Georges Seurat makes him pre-eminent among
and Post-Impressionist works by Gauguin and Van Gogh. 19th-century sculptors. The
The museum also holds world-class temporary exhibitions museum contains many of his
and excellent lunchtime and evening concerts. works, including the original
plaster of Balzac (1897). Rodin’s
talented companion, Camille
its proliferation of allegorical Claudel, who spent much of her
seated female nudes, bronze life in an asylum, is represented
palm fronds and severed by a grim allegory of mortality,
bearded heads. Maturity (1899 –1903).
The turn of the 20th century
Sculpture is marked by the work of
Emile-Antoine Bourdelle and
The museum’s central aisle Aristide Maillol.
overflows with an oddly
assorted selection of sculp tures. Painting Before 1880
These illustrate the eclectic
mood around the middle of The surprising diversity of styles
the 19th century when the in 19th-century painting is
Ceiling design (1911) by the artist and Classicism of Eugène emphasized by the close
designer Maurice Denis Guillaume’s Cenotaph of the juxtaposition on the ground
Gracchi (1848 –53) co-existed floor of all paintings prior to
Art Nouveau with the Romanticism of 1870 – the crucial year in
François Rude. Rude created the which Impressionism first
The Belgian architect and relief on the Arc de Triomphe made a name for itself. The
designer Victor Horta was (1836), often referred to as La raging colour and almost
among the first to give free Marseillaise (see p213). Expressionistic vigour of
rein to the sinuous line that There is a wonderful series Eugène Delacroix’s Lion Hunt
gave Art Nouveau its French of 36 busts of members of (1854) stands next to
sobriquet of Style Nouille (noodle parliament (1832) – bloated, Jean-Dominique Ingres’ cool
style). Taking its name from a ugly, unscrupulous and self- Classical The Spring (1820–56).
gallery of modern design that important – by the satirist As a reminder of the academic
opened in Paris in 1895, Art Honoré Daumier, and manner that dominated the
Nouveau flourished through- work by the vital but century up to that point,
out Europe until World War I. short-lived genius Jean- the uninspired waxwork
In Vienna, Otto Wagner, Baptiste Carpeaux, style of Thomas Couture’s
Koloman Moser and Josef whose first major monumental The Romans in
Hoffmann combined high bronze, Count the Age of Decadence (1847)
craft with the new design, Ugolino (1862), was a dominates the central aisle.
while the School of Glasgow, character from In a class of their own are
under the impetus of Charles Dante. In 1868, he Edouard Manet’s
Rennie Mackintosh, developed produced his provocative Olympia and
a more rectilinear approach Dionysian delight, Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe
which anticipated the work The Dance, which (1863), while works
of Frank Lloyd Wright in the caused a storm painted around the
United States. of protest: it was same time by his
René Lalique introduced “an insult to friends, Claude
the aesthetics of Art Nouveau public morals”. This Monet, Pierre-
into jewellery and glassware, contrasts with the Auguste Renoir, Frédéric
while Hector Guimard, inspired derivative and mannered Bazille and Alfred Sisley,
by Horta, is most famous today work of such sculptors as give a glimpse of the
for his once-ubiquitous Art Alexandre Falguière and Impressionists before
Nouveau entrances to the Hyppolyte Moulin. the Impressionist
Paris Metro. Edgar Degas’ famous movement began.
One exhibit not to be missed Young Dancer of Fourteen
is the carved wooden bookcase (1881) was displayed Young Dancer of Fourteen
by Rupert Carabin (1890), with during his lifetime, but (1881) by Edgar Degas




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