P ARIS AREA B Y AREA 199
CHAILLOT QUARTER
The Chaillot Quarter was just a village the palace of the Trocadéro, erected for the
before becoming absorbed into the city 1878 Universal Exhibition. With gorgeous
of Paris in the 19th century. This exclusive views across the Seine to the Eiffel Tower, the
neighbourhood now contains wide avenues, Palais de Chaillot contains three museums,
grand mansions and embassies, and elegant including the Musée de l’Homme, an
shops. The fall of his empire put a stop to aquarium and the National Theatre of
Napoleon’s plans to build a palace for his son Chaillot. Close by is the Musée d’Art
on Chaillot Hill, but the site was later used for Moderne, in the vast Palais de Tokyo.
Sights at a Glance
Gardens Museums and Galleries e Galerie-Musée Baccarat
6 Jardins du Trocadéro 3 Cité de l’Architecture et du r Musée National des Arts
Asiatiques Guimet
Modern Architecture Patrimoine t Palais Galliera
1 Palais de Chaillot 4 Musée de l’Homme
5 Musée National de la Marine y Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville
Aquarium 7 Musée du Vin de Paris
2 Aquarium de Paris – Cinéaqua 8 Maison de Balzac u Palais de Tokyo
Cemeteries 9 Maison de Radio-France
q Musée de la Contrefaçon
0 Cimetière de Passy w Musée Dapper
Charles de
Gaulle Etoile
A V E N U E F O C H
Porte AVENUE VICTOR HUGO Kléber K L E B E R A V E N U E
POMPE
Dauphine AV E N U E B U G E A U D M Victor Hugo L A U R I S T O N A V E N U E L A P E R O U S E AVE See also Street Finder
Avenue
RUE DE LA
Foch
maps 3–4, 9–10
A V E N U E R AY
B O U L E V A R D F L A N D R I N R U E D E L A FA ISA N D ER I E R U E S P O N T I N I RUE DES BELLES FEUILLES R U E S A I N T D I D I E R Boissière RUE GALILEE R U E LUBECK DE GRASSE AVE PIERRE 1er
RUE COPERNIC
A V E N U E V I C T O R H U G O
R U E
R U E M E S N I L O N D
D’IENA
PLACE
RUE DE BELLOY
AMIRAL
RUE GALILEE M A R C E A U
RUE DE LOTA
R U E B O I S S I E R E
RUE DE LONGCHAMP
DE SERBIE
P O I N C A R E
DE
RUE HAMELIN
RUE
Ave Henri VILLA RUE DE LA POMPE CHAILLOT KLEBER RUE DE LONGCHAMP D’IENA Alma
RUE DE LON GCHAMP
Martin JOCELYN RUE DE CAMPS
AVE HENRI MARTIN R U E G R E U Z E AVENUE AVENUE DU PRESIDENT WILSON Marceau
Rue de la AVE Iéna
AVE D'EYLAU
Pompe AVENUE GEORGES MANDEL Trocadéro RUE FRESNEL Debilly
RUE DE LA POMPE RUE A V E N U E P A U L D O U M E R AVE DE NEW YORK
Passerelle
RUE DE LA TOUR
RUE B FRANKLIN
RUE DES BORDES
CORTAMBERT RUE SCHEFFER
RUE
RUE DE
NICOLO
LA
RUE VITAL
Restaurants see pp300–302
R E MANUEL
AVE DU PRESIDENT KENNEDY
R NICOLO
Passy
R U E D E P A S S Y TOUR BLVD DELESSERT S e i n e 1 6 New York
2 Antoine
RUE RAYNOUAR D
R U E D E B O U L A I N V I LL I E R S La Muette RUE SINGER AVE DE LAMBALLE Bir Hakeim 6 Paul Chêne
RUE DE
L’ALBONI
4 Chez Géraud
Boulainvilliers PASSY 3 L’Astrance
5 Hiramatsu
RUE DE L'ANNONCIATION
RUE RAYNOUARD
7 Prunier
Pont de
RUE DES VIGNES
RUE DU RANELAGH
Ave du Président
Kennedy Maison de
Radio-France
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
RUE DE BOULAINVILLIERS
Pont de
Grenelle
Gilded bronze statues outside the Palais de Chaillot, with the Eiffel Tower in the background For keys to symbols see back flap
198-199_EW_Paris.indd 199 25/04/16 4:18 pm
200 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
Street-by-Street: Chaillot
The Chaillot hill, with its superb position The statue of Marshal Ferdinand
overlooking the Seine, was the site chosen Foch, who led the Allies to victory in
by Napoleon for “the biggest and most 1918, was unveiled on 11 November
extraordinary” palace that was to be built 1951. The monument was built by
Robert Wlérick and Raymond
for his son – but by the time Martin to commemorate the
of his downfall, only a centenary of Foch’s birth and the
few ramparts had been 33rd anniversary of the 1918 Armistice.
completed. Today, the Metro Trocadéro
monumental Palais de
Chaillot, with its two massive
curved wings, stands on the
site. From the terrace in
front of the Palais, there is a AVE DU PRESIDENT WILSON
magnificent view over the Trocadéro
U TR OC ADER
gardens and the Seine to the Eiffel Tower. O
D
The Place du Trocadéro was created for
the Universal Exhibition of 1878. Initially,
L
it was known as the Place du Roi-de-Rome, P
in honour of Napoleon’s son.
PL J
MARTI
AVE PAUL DOUMER
N
I
L
5 . Musée National de la Marine N K
With a focus on France’s maritime A
history, this museum includes F R
exhibits of navigational instruments. E
U
R
BLVD DELESSERT AVE DES NATIONS UNIES
0 metres 100 RUE LE NOTRE
0 yards 100
4 Musée de l’Homme
1 . Palais de Chaillot The vast collection of items
This Neo-Classical building was created for the on display here focuses on
World Fair of 1937. It replaced the Palais du evolution and cultures of the
Trocadéro, which was originally built in 1878. world throughout the ages.
200-201_EW_Paris.indd 200 25/04/16 5:03 pm
CHAILL O T QU AR TER 201
The Théâtre National de Chaillot,
beneath the terrace, includes a multi‑ CHAMPS-
ELYSEES
purpose cultural centre and a modern
1,200‑seat theatre (see pp334, 336). CHAILLOT
QUARTER
INVALIDES AND
EIFFEL TOWER
QUARTER
S e i n e
Locator Map
See Central Paris Map pp16–17
3 Cité de l’Architecture
et du Patrimoine
This vast complex houses an
AVE DU PRESIDENT WILSON library and archive, and various
architecture museum, a school,
heritage organizations.
6 Jardins du Trocadéro
The present layout of the gardens
was created by R Lardat after the
World Fair of 1937.
AVE ALBERT DE MUN
AVE DES NATIONS UNIES 2 Aquarium de
NEW YORK
Paris – Cinéaqua
Built to blend in with the
Chaillot hillside, this aquarium
also has a cinema complex.
VARSOVIE
PL DE
The Pont d’Iéna was built by
Napoleon to celebrate his victory
in 1806 over the Prussians at Jena
(Iéna) in Prussia. It was widened in
1937 to complement the building
AVE DES NATIONS UNIES PONT D'IENA of the Palais de Chaillot.
AVE DE
RUE LE NOTRE
The Trocadéro
fountains are
operated in sequence,
culminating in the
massive water cannons
in the centre firing
Key towards the Eiffel
Tower. They are
Suggested route illuminated at night.
200-201_EW_Paris.indd 201 25/04/16 5:03 pm
202 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
Trocadéro fountains in front of the Palais de Chaillot
1 Palais de Chaillot National de Chaillot (see pp334, Cinema screens showing
336), which, since World War II, cartoons and animal documen-
17 Pl du Trocadéro 75016. Map 9 C2.
Tel 01 53 65 30 00. q Trocadéro. has enjoyed huge fame for its taries are interspersed with the
0 - = avant-garde productions. aquariums. There are also art
exhibitions and shows for
The Palais, with its huge, curved 2 Aquarium de children in the theatre.
colonnaded wings each
culminating in an immense Paris – Cinéaqua
pavilion, was designed in Neo- 5 Ave Albert de Mun 75016. Map 10
Classical style for the 1937 Paris D2. Tel 01 40 69 23 23. q Troca déro,
Exhibition by Léon Azéma, Iéna. Open 10am–7pm daily (last
Louis-Hippolyte Boileau and adm: 6pm). Closed 14 Jul. & 7
Jacques Carlu. It is adorned with ∑ cineaqua.com
sculptures and bas-reliefs. On
the walls of the pavilions, there Originally built in 1878 for the
are gold inscriptions by the Universal Exhibition, this is now
poet and essayist Paul Valéry. a state-of-the-art aqua rium Church model from Bagneux, Cité de
The parvis or square, situated which is home to over 500 l’Architecture et du Patrimoine
between the two pavi lions, is species of sea creatures,
decorated with large bronze including seahorses, clownfish, 3 Cité de
sculptures and orna mental pools. stonefish and some spectacular l’Architecture et
On the terrace in front of the sharks and rays. du Patrimoine
parvis stand two bronzes, Apollo The building is located in a
by Henri Bouchard and Hercules former quarry and has been Palais de Chaillot, Pl du Trocadéro
by Albert Pommier. Stairways lead designed to blend in entirely 75016. Map 9 C2. Tel 01 58 51 52 00.
from the terrace to the Théâtre with the Chaillot hillside. q Trocadéro. Open 11am–7pm
Wed–Mon (to 9pm Thu). & - =
∑ citechaillot.fr
In the east wing of the Palais
de Chaillot, this museum charts
the development of French
architecture through the
ages. Among the unmissable
displays is the Galerie des
Moulages, which covers the
period from the Middle Ages to
the Renaissance. Here, you will
find three-dimensional models
of great French cathedrals,
such as Chartres. Also worth
a look is the Galerie Moderne
et Contemporaine, with
a reconstruction of a Le
Shark basin, one of the 43 tanks at the Aquarium de Paris – Cinéaqua Corbusier-designed apartment.
202-203_EW_Paris.indd 202 03/04/17 10:56 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.9)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
CHAILL O T QU AR TER 203
4 Musée de invasion of Britain, and dis plays these atmospheric vaulted
l’Homme on underwater explorat ion and medieval cellars, which were
fishing vessels.
once used by the monks of
Palais de Chaillot, 17 Pl du Trocadéro Passy. The exhibits include a
75016. Map 9 C2. Tel 01 44 05 72 72. 6 Jardins du collection of old wine bottles,
q Trocadéro. Open 10am–6pm glasses and cork screws, as
Wed–Mon (to 9pm Wed). Closed 1 Jan, Trocadéro well as an array of scientific
1 May, 25 Dec. & Exhibitions, films. instruments that were used in
0 - = ∑ museedehomme.fr 75016. Map 10 D2. q Trocadéro. the wine-making and bottling
The centrepiece of these processes. There is also an
Situated in the west lovely gardens is a long atmospheric restaurant, wine
wing of the Chaillot rectangular orna men tal for sale and tours which
palace, this museum pool, bordered by stone include a wine-tasting session.
traces the process of and bronze-gilt statues,
human evo lution, which look spec tacular at
from prehistoric times night when the fountains
to the present, through are illuminated. The
anthropological exhibits statues include Man by
from around the P Traverse and Woman by
world. It houses one G Braque, Bull by P Jouve
of the world’s most and Horse by G Guyot.
comprehen sive On either side of the
prehistoric collections. Gabon mask at the pool, the slopes of the
Displays show how Musée de l’Homme Chaillot hill lead down
humans have adapted to the Seine and the
to the environment, and there Pont d’Iéna. There is an
is also a focus on the develop- aquarium in the northeast Balzac’s modest house
ment of language and culture. corner of the gardens, which are
laid out with trees, small streams 8 Maison de Balzac
and bridges. There is also a lovely 47 Rue Raynouard 75016. Map 9 B3.
Christmas market in December.
Tel 01 55 74 41 80. q Passy, La
Muette. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
(last adm: 5:30pm). Closed public hols.
7 Musée du Vin Reference library: Tue & Thu. & for
temporary exhibitions. 8 = 9
5 Sq Charles Dickens 75016. Map 9 B3.
Tel 01 45 25 70 89. q Passy. Open
10am–6pm Tue–Sat. Closed 1 Jan, The novelist Honoré de Balzac
Relief outside the Musée de la Marine 25 Dec. & ^ 7 8 tours with lived here from 1840 to 1847
5 Musée National wine tasting avail able for groups. under a false name, Monsieur de
Brugnol, to avoid his numerous
de la Marine Reserve in advance. 0 noon–3pm creditors. During this time, he
Tue–Sat. Tel 01 45 25 63 26.
∑ museeduvinparis.com wrote many of his most famous
Palais de Chaillot, 17 Pl du Trocadéro
75016. Map 9 C2. Tel 01 53 65 69 69. novels, among them La Cousine
q Trocadéro. Open 10am–6pm Wed– Waxwork figures and cardboard Bette (1846).
Mon. Closed Tue; Jul 14. & 9 8 by cut-outs graphically illustrate The house now contains a
appt; 01 53 65 69 53. = Films, videos. the history of wine making in reference library, with first edi-
∑ musee-marine.fr tions and manuscripts, and a
museum with memorabilia
French maritime history from from his life. Many of the rooms
the days of the royal wooden have drawings and paintings
war ships to today’s aircraft portray ing Balzac’s family and
carriers and nuclear subma rines close friends. The Madame
is told through wonder fully Hanska room is devoted to the
exact scale models (most of memory of the Russian woman
them two centu ries old), who corresponded with Balzac
mementos of naval heroes, for 18 years and was his wife for
paintings and navigatio nal the five months before his
instruments. The museum was death in 1850.
set up by Charles X in 1827, and The house has a back entrance
was then moved to the Chaillot leading into Rue Berton, which
palace in 1943. Exhibits include was used to evade unwelcome
Napoleon’s barge, models of the callers. Rue Berton, with its ivy-
fleet he assembled at Boulogne- Wax figure on display in the vaulted covered walls, has retained
sur-Mer in 1805 for his planned cellar of the Musée du Vin much of its old, rustic charm.
202-203_EW_Paris.indd 203 03/04/17 10:56 am
204 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
sculpture, carvings, and tribal
work, but there is later art too.
Displays include a collection of
tribal masks, with a dazzling
array of richly carved religious,
ritual and funerary masks, as
well as theatrical masks used
for comic, magical or symbolic
performances, some dating
back to the 12th century.
e Galerie-Musée
Baccarat
11 Pl des Etats-Unis 75016. Map 4 D5.
Debussy’s grave in the Cimetière de Passy, in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower
Tel 01 40 22 11 00. q Boissière, Iéna.
9 Maison de q Musée de la Open 10am–6pm Mon, Wed–Sat.
Radio-France Contrefaçon Closed Tue, Sun, public hols. & 8
by appt. = ∑ baccarat.fr
116 Ave du Président-Kennedy 75016. 16 Rue de la Faisanderie 75016. The Galerie-Musée Baccarat
Map 9 B4. Tel 01 56 40 22 22. Map 3 A5. Tel 01 56 26 14 03.
q Ranelagh. Open for concerts, q Porte Dauphine. Open 2–5:30pm shows off some 1,200 items
check website for details; Sat for visits. Tue–Sun, ring doorbell. Morning visits made by the Baccarat crystal
Book online or Tel 01 56 40 15 16. 7 by appt. Closed public hols, 2 weeks glass company, which was
∑ maisondelaradio.fr and weekends in Aug. & 8 = founded in Lorraine. These
∑ musee-contrefacon.com include services created for the
Maison de Radio-France is an royal and imperial courts of
impressive building designed French cognac and perfume Europe and one-off pieces
by Henri Bernard in 1963 as the producers, and the luxury trade created in the workshops.
headquarters of France’s public in general, have been plagued
radio network. The largest single for years by counterfeiters
structure in France, it is made operating around the world.
up of three concentric circular This museum was set up by
buildings with a rectangular the manufacturers’ union and
tower and covers 2 ha (5 acres). illustrates the history of this
The 70-odd studios and main type of fraud, which has been
public auditorium are the home going on since Roman times.
of French national public radio. Among the impressive display
Radio France sponsors over 100 of forgeries are copies of Louis
concerts each year, including Vuitton luggage, Cartier
performances by the Orchestre watches and fake wine.
National de France – several of
these concerts are held at the
Maison de Radio-France. w Musée Dapper
Khmer art in the Musée National des Arts
35 bis Rue Paul-Valéry, 75116. Map 3
0 Cimetière C4. Tel 01 45 00 91 75. q Victor- Asiatiques Guimet
de Passy Hugo. Open Temporary exhibitions: r Musée National
11am–7pm Wed, Fri–Mon (to 10pm
2 Rue du Commandant-Shloesing Fri & Sat). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & des Arts Asiatiques
75016. Map 9 C2. q Trocadéro. 8 by appt. = - ∑ dapper.fr Guimet
Open 8am–5:30pm Mon–Sat, 9am–
5:30pm Sun (to 6pm 16 Mar–5 Nov). Not just a museum, but a 6 Pl d’Iéna 75116. Map 10 D1. Tel 01
leading ethnographic research 56 52 53 00. q Iéna. Open 10am–
This small cemetery, opened in centre called the Dapper 6pm Wed–Mon (last adm: 5:15pm).
1820, is packed with the graves Foundation, this lively institute Closed 1 Jan , 1 May, 25 Dec. & ^
of eminent Parisians, including showcases African and 7 8 0 9 = Panthéon
the composers Claude Debussy Caribbean art and culture. Bouddhique (additional galleries) at 19
and Gabriel Fauré and painter Located in an attractive Ave d’Iéna. Tel 01 40 73 88 00. Open
Call ahead; 10am–5.45pm Wed–Mon
Edouard Manet, as well as many building with an “African” (garden open to 5pm). ∑ guimet.fr
politicians and aristocrats, such as garden, it is a treasure house of
Ghislaine Dommanget, Princess vibrant colour and powerful, The Musée Guimet has the
of Monaco, Leila Pahlavi, evocative work from sub- finest collection of Khmer
daughter of the Shah of Iran and Saharan Africa. The emphasis is (Cambodian) art in the West. It
Michel Droit, writer and journalist. on pre-colonial folk arts, with was originally set up in Lyon in
204-205_EW_Paris.indd 204 03/04/17 10:57 am
CHAILL O T QU AR TER 205
1879 by the industrialist and 18th century to the present day. and artists. Established in 1961,
orientalist Emile Guimet. Some have been donated by the museum occupies the vast
Moved to Paris in 1884, it such fashionable women as Palais de Tokyo, which was built
meticulously represents every Baronne Hélène de Roths child for the 1937 World Fair.
artistic tradition from Afghani- and Princess Grace of Monaco. One of the museum’s
stan to India, China, Japan and The museum holds around high lights is Raoul Dufy’s
the rest of Southeast Asia. three temporary exhibi tions gigantic mural La Fée Electricité
With over 45,000 artworks, the every year. (The Spirit of Electricity), which
museum is acclaimed for some traces the history of electricity
especially unusual collections, through the ages. One of the
including the Cambodian largest paintings in the world,
Angkor Wat sculptures and 1,600 measuring 600 sq metres
artworks from the Himalayas. (6,500 sq ft), this curved
Other high lights include Chinese mural takes up a whole room
bronzes and lacquer ware, at the museum. Also notable
and many statues of Buddha. are the Cubists, Amedeo
Seasonal tea ceremonies Modigliani, George Rouault
are held in the Panthéon and the Fauves. This group
Bouddhique. Call for details. of avant-garde artists was
dominated by Matisse whose
celebrated mural, La Danse,
t Palais Galliera Gabriel Forestier’s sculpted doors, Musée is on display here, in both
d’Art Moderne versions. There are also
10 Ave Pierre 1er de Serbie 75116. frequent temporary exhibitions.
Map 10 E1. Tel 01 56 52 86 00. q y Musée d’Art
Iéna, Alma Marceau. Museum:
Open for exhibitions only. 10am–6pm Moderne de la
Tue–Sun (to 9pm Thu). Library & Ville de Paris
documentation centre: by appt,
call 01 56 52 86 46. Closed public 11 Ave du Président-Wilson 75116.
hols and in between expos. & 7 Map 10 E1. Tel 01 53 67 40 00.
Chil dren’s workshops. q Iéna, Alma Marceau. Open
∑ palaisgalliera.paris.fr 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 10pm Thu).
Closed public hols. & temporary
Devoted to the evolution of exhibitions. 7 8 - 9 = Films.
fashion, this museum, also ∑ mam.paris.fr
known as the Musée de la
Mode de la Ville de Paris, is This large lively museum Bas-relief on the walls of Palais de Tokyo
housed in the Renaissance-style houses the city of Paris’s own
palace built for the Duchesse renowned collection of modern u Palais de Tokyo
Maria de Ferrari Galliera in 1892. art. It has about 10,000 works
The collection comprises more representing major 20th- and 13 Ave du Président-Wilson 75116.
than 100,000 outfits, from the 21st-century artistic movements Map 10 E1. Tel 01 81 97 35 88.
q Iéna, Alma Marceau.
Open noon–midnight Wed–Mon.
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec, 2 wks
in Dec. & 7 8 0 - =
∑ palaisdetokyo.com
This enormous modern art
museum is adjacent to the
Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville
de Paris within the imposing
1937 Palais de Tokyo building.
It presents an innovative,
changing programme of
contemporary art exhibitions,
fashion shows and avant-garde
performances. Installations by
artists such as Pierre Joseph,
Wang Du and Frank Scurti have
earned the Palais de Tokyo a
reputation as one of the most
cutting-edge art houses in
Europe. Parts of the building
Garden and rear façade of the Palais Galliera are closed for renovation.
204-205_EW_Paris.indd 205 03/04/17 10:57 am
200m TERNES
AVE DES
AVE DE WAGRAM RUE DU DR LANC EREAUX
200m AVE MACMAHON Ternes
Argentine H O C H E B O U L E VA R D H A U S S M A N N
RUE DU FAUBOURG ST HONORE
AV E
AV E C ARNO T
AVE DE LA
AV E N U E D E F R I E D L A N D RUE DE LA BAUME RUE
Miromesnil
GRANDE ARMEE
Charles de RUE WASHINGTON RUE LA BOETIE DE
R UE P BA U DRY
Gaulle Etoile AV E N U E R U E D E B E R R I R U E D U F A U B O U R G S T H O N O R E MIROMESNIL
R U E L A B O E T I E
du-Roule
George V St-Philippe-
AVE
D E S C H A M P S
AVE PIERRE 1 er DE SERBIE E LY S E E S AVENUE FRANKLIN D ROOSEVELT Rond Point des AVENUE DE MARIGNY RUE DE L'ELYSEE
Franklin D.
Champs Elysées
Roosevelt
GEORGE V
RUE DE LA TREMOILLE R U E J E A N G O U J O N Clemenceau A V E N U E G A B R I E L
Champs
AV E N U E M O N TA I G N E
RUE FRANCOIS 1 er
Elysées
A V E N U E M A R C E A U
AV E N U E D E S C H A M P S E LY S E E S
A V E N U E G E O R G E V
AVE EDWARD TUCK
Alma C O U R S A L B E R T 1 e r AVE W CHURCHILL COURS LA REINE
RUE FRANCOIS 1 er
Marceau
Port des
Port de la S e i n e Invalides Pont des Pont Alexandre III Champs-Elysées
Conférence
L’Alma
Pont de
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P ARIS AREA B Y AREA 207
CHAMPS-ELYSEES
There are several main reasons to explore l’Elysée, huge mansions and many
this former marshland – shopping, dining embassies, and Avenue Montaigne, a hub
and entertainment. The broad Avenue des for high-end luxury boutiques. However, the
Champs-Elysées, starting from the Jardin area is of equal interest for its historical and
des Tuileries, is one of the most ostententious cultural landmarks, such as the monumental
and famous thoroughfares in the world. Arc de Triomphe, the Art Nouveau Grand
While this celebrated avenue dominates this Palais, which hosts exhibitions, and the
part of the city, other streets of note are Rue Petit Palais, housing the Musée des Beaux
St-Honoré, home to the presidential Palais de Arts de la Ville de Paris.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Bridges Restaurants see pp300–302
5 Palais de l’Elysée 1 Pont Alexandre III 1 Apicius
6 Avenue Montaigne Museums and Galleries 2 Café Lenôtre
8 Avenue des Champs-Elysées 2 Grand Palais 3 Chez Diep
9 Place Charles de Gaulle (l’Etoile) 3 Palais de la Découverte 4 Le Cinq (Four Seasons
Monuments 4 Petit Palais George V)
5 Copenhague
0 Arc de Triomphe pp212–13 7 Musée Jacquemart-André 6 L’Epicure (Hotel Bristol)
7 Graindorge
8 Le Hide
9 L’Huîtrier
10 Korean Barbecue Champs-
Elysées
11 Lasserre
12 Mini Palais
0 metres 500 13 Pierre Gagnaire
0 yards 500 14 Relais de l’Entrecôte
15 Relais Plaza
16 Taillevent
17 Le Timgad
200m AVE DES
TERNES
AVE DE WAGRAM RUE DU DR LANC EREAUX
200m AVE MACMAHON Ternes
Argentine H O C H E B O U L E VA R D H A U S S M A N N
RUE DU FAUBOURG ST HONORE
AV E
AV E C ARNO T
AVE DE LA
AV E N U E D E F R I E D L A N D RUE DE LA BAUME Miromesnil RUE
GRANDE ARMEE
Charles de RUE WASHINGTON RUE LA BOETIE DE
R UE P BA U DRY
Gaulle Etoile AV E N U E R U E D E B E R R I R U E D U F A U B O U R G S T H O N O R E MIROMESNIL
R U E L A B O E T I E
du-Roule
George V St-Philippe-
AVE
D E S C H A M P S
AVE PIERRE 1 er DE SERBIE E LY S E E S AVENUE FRANKLIN D ROOSEVELT Rond Point des AVENUE DE MARIGNY RUE DE L'ELYSEE
Franklin D.
Champs Elysées
Roosevelt
GEORGE V
RUE DE LA TREMOILLE R U E J E A N G O U J O N Clemenceau A V E N U E G A B R I E L
Champs
AV E N U E M O N TA I G N E
RUE FRANCOIS 1 er
Elysées
A V E N U E M A R C E A U
AV E N U E D E S C H A M P S E LY S E E S
AV E N U E G E O R G E V
AVE EDWARD TUCK
Alma C O U R S A L B E R T 1 e r AVE W CHURCHILL COURS LA REINE
RUE FRANCOIS 1 er
Marceau
Port des
See also Street Finder L’Alma Pont de Port de la S e i n e Invalides Pont des Pont Alexandre III Champs-Elysées
maps 3–4, 5, 10–11 Conférence
The charming Petit Palais, built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900 For keys to symbols see back flap
206-207_EW_Paris.indd 207 03/04/17 10:49 am
208 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
Street-by-Street: Champs-Elysées The Théâtre du Rond-
Point was the home of
The formal gardens that line the Champs-Elysées from the Place de la the Renaud-Barrault
Concorde to the Rond-Point have changed little since they were laid out Company. There are
by the architect Jacques Hittorff in 1838. They were used as the setting plaques on the back
door of the theatre
for the World Fair of 1855, which included the Palais de l’Industrie, Paris’s representing
answer to London’s Crystal Palace. The Palais was later replaced by the Napoleon’s
Grand Palais and Petit Palais, which were created as a showpiece of the campaigns.
Third Republic for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. They sit on either AVE GABRIEL
side of an impressive vista that stretches from Place Clémenceau across
the elegant curve of the Pont Alexandre III to the Invalides.
Metro Franklin D Roosevelt
6 Avenue
Montaigne
Christian Dior and
other haute couture AVE DES CHAMPS ELYSEES
houses are based on
this chic avenue.
AVE FRANKLIN D ROOSEVELT EISENHOWER
AVE G.
2 . Grand Palais RUE JEAN GOUJON
Designed by Charles Girault, this
grand 19th-century building is still
used for major exhibitions.
RUE FRANCOIS PREMIER
PL DU COURS LA REINE
CANADA
PONT DES INVALIDES
The Lasserre restaurant is
decorated in the style of a luxurious
ocean liner from the 1930s.
3 Palais de la Découverte
Outside this museum of
scientific discoveries is a pair
of equestrian statues.
208-209_EW_Paris.indd 208 03/04/17 10:49 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 3rd September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
CHA MPS-EL Y S E ES 209
8 . Avenue des Champs-Elysées
This was the setting for the victory
parades following the two World
Wars, and for the bicentennial parade
in 1989. CHAMPS-ELYSEES
CHAILLOT
QUARTER
S e i n e
INVALIDES AND
Metro Champs-Elysées- EIFFEL TOWER QUARTER
Clemenceau
Locator Map
See Central Paris Map pp16–17
AVE GABRIEL
Key
Suggested route
AVE DE MARIGNY 0 metres 100 100
0 yards
AVE DES CHAMPS ELYSEES
The Jardins des Champs-Elysées,
with their fountains, flower beds,
paths and pleasure pavilions,
became very popular towards the
end of the 19th century. Fashion
able Parisians, including Marcel
To the Place de Proust, often came here.
PL
la Concorde
AVE DES CHAMPS ELYSEES
CLEMENCEAU
AVE WINSTON CHURCHILL
COURS LA REINE 4 . Petit Palais
PONT ALEXANDRE III ranging collections it contains, from
Lit by natural light, this palace is as
much a work of art as the wide
antiquity to the Belle Epoque.
To the
Invalides 1 . Pont Alexandre III
The bridge’s four columns help to
anchor the piers that absorb the
immense forces generated by such
a large singlespan structure.
208-209_EW_Paris.indd 209 03/04/17 10:49 am
210 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
with a riot of Art Nou veau
ironwork. The enormous glass
roof (15,000 sq m/160,000 sq ft)
has Récipon’s colossal bronze
statues of flying horses and
chariots at its four corners. The
metal structure supporting the
glass weighs 8,500 tonnes,
some 500 tonnes more than the
Eiffel Tower. Today, the restored
Grand Palais hosts contemporary
art exhibitions and other events;
major temporary and touring
exhibitions are held at the
Pont Alexandre III Galeries Nationales in the
same building.
1 Pont Alexandre III
75008. Map 11 A1. q Champs- 3 Palais de la Entrance to the Petit Palais
Elysées-Clemenceau. Découverte
This is Paris’s prettiest bridge Ave Franklin D Roosevelt 75008. Map 4 Petit Palais
with its exuberant Art Nouveau 11 A1. Tel 01 44 43 20 20. q Franklin Ave Winston Churchill 75008.
decoration of lamps, cherubs, D Roosevelt. Open 9:30am–6pm Tue– Map 11 B1. Tel 01 53 43 40 00.
nymphs and winged horses Sat (to 7pm Sat), 10am–7pm Sun. q Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau.
at either end. It was built Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 14 Jul, 25 Dec. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm
between 1896 and 1900, in & by permission. = - Fri for temporary exhibitions). Closed
time for the Universal Exhibition, ∑ palais-decouverte.fr public hols. & 8 for exhi bi tions. -
and it was named after Tsar ∑ petitpalais.paris.fr
Alexander III, whose son Opened in a wing of the Grand
Nicholas II laid the foundation Palais for the World Fair of 1937, Built for the Universal Exhibition
stone in October 1896. this science museum is a in 1900, to stage a major display
The style of the bridge much-loved Paris institu tion. of French art, this jewel of a
reflects that of the Grand Palais, Demonstrations and displays, building now houses the Musée
to which it leads on the Right including a planet arium, des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de
Bank. The construction of cover many subjects and Paris. Arranged around a pretty
the bridge is a marvel of explain such phen omena as semicircular courtyard and
19th-century engineering, electromagnetism. garden café, the palace is similar
consisting of a 6-m (18-ft) high in style to the Grand Palais, and
single-span steel arch across has Ionic columns, a grand porch
the Seine. The design was and a dome, which echoes that
subject to strict controls that of the Invalides (see pp188–9).
prevented the bridge from The Cours de la Reine wing,
obscuring the view of the nearest the river, is used for
Champs-Elysées or the Invalides, temporary exhibitions. The
so today, you can still enjoy Champs-Elysées side of the
magnificent views from here. palace houses the permanent
collections: Greek and Roman;
medieval and Renaissance ivories
2 Grand Palais and sculptures; Renaissance
Palais de la Découverte clocks and jewellery; and 17th-,
Porte A, Ave Général Eisenhower
75008. Map 11 A1. Tel 01 44 13 17 17. Exhibition space Iron supports
q Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. Grand Palais
Open for temporary exhibitions
(check website for opening hours).
Closed 1 May, 25 Dec. & ^ 7
8 usually 6pm Wed–Fri, 11am &
4:45pm Sat but call to check. 9 -
= ∑ grandpalais.fr
Built at the same time as the
Petit Palais and the Pont
Alexandre III, the exterior of this
massive palace combines an
imposing Classical stone façade
210-211_EW_Paris.indd 210 03/04/17 10:57 am
CHA MPS-EL Y S E ES 211
18th, and 19thcentury art and
furniture. There are also many
works by the Impressionists.
5 Palais de l’Elysée
55 Rue du FaubourgStHonoré 75008.
Map 5 B5. q StPhilippeduRoule.
Closed to the public.
Backing onto splendid English
style gardens, the Elysée Palace
was built for the Comte d’Evreux
in 1718 and has been the official
residence of the President of the
Republic since 1873. From 1805
to 1808, it was occupied by
Napoleon’s sister, Caroline,
and her husband, Murat. Two The Second-Empire Smoking Room in the Musée Jacquemart-André
charming rooms have been
preserved from this period: 7 Musée from the Tuileries by creating
the Salon Murat and the Salon Jacquemart-André a treelined avenue which
d’Argent. General de Gaulle eventually became known as the
gave press conferences in 158 Blvd Haussmann 75008. Map 5 ChampsElysées (Elysian Fields).
the Hall of Mirrors. Today, A4. Tel 01 45 62 11 59. q Mirom esnil, It has been France’s national
the President’s modernized StPhilippeduRoule. Open 10am– “triumphal way” ever since the
6pm daily (to 8:30pm Mon).
apartments are on the first floor & ^ = 9 - 7 restricted. homecoming of Napoleon’s
opposite the Rue de l’Elysée. body from St Helena in 1840.
∑ musee-jacquemart-andre.com
With the addition of cafés and
This museum is known for its restaurants in the second half of
6 Avenue collection of Italian Renaissance the 19th century, the Champs
Montaigne and French 18thcentury works Elysées became the place in
of art, as well as its beautiful which to be seen. In December,
75008. Map 10 F1. q Franklin D
Roosevelt. frescoes by Tiepolo. Highlights it hosts a huge Christmas
include works by Mantegna, market and holiday light show.
In the 19th century, this avenue Uccello’s masterpiece St George
was famous for its dance halls and the Dragon (c.1435), paintings 9 Place Charles de
and its Winter Garden, where by Boucher and Fragonard and
Parisians went to hear Adolphe 18thcentury tapestries. Gaulle (l’Etoile)
Sax play his newly invented 75008. Map 4 D4. q Charles de
saxophone. Today, it is still 8 Avenue des GaulleEtoile.
one of Paris’s most fashionable
streets, bustling with restaurants, Champs-Elysées Known as the Place de l’Etoile
cafés, hotels and designer 75008. Map 5 A5. q Franklin D until the death of Charles de
boutiques. At one end Roosevelt, George V. Gaulle in 1969, the area is still
lies the beautiful Art referred to simply as l’Etoile, the
Deco Théâtre de Paris’s most famous and popular star. The present place was laid
ChampsElysées, thoroughfare had its beginnings out in accordance with Baron
built in 1913. in about 1667, when the land Haussmann’s plans of 1854
scape garden designer André Le (see pp36–7). For motorists, it
Glass cupola Nôtre extended the royal view is the ultimate challenge.
Quadriga (chariot
and four horses)
by Récipon
210-211_EW_Paris.indd 211 03/04/17 10:57 am
212 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
0 Arc de Triomphe
After his greatest victory, the Battle of Austerlitz in
1805, Napoleon promised his men, “You shall go
home beneath triumphal arches.” The first stone of
what was to become the world’s most famous
triumphal arch was laid the following year. But
disruptions to architect Jean Chalgrin’s plans and the
demise of Napoleonic power delayed the completion
of this monumental building until 1836. Standing 50 m
(164 ft) high, the Arc is now the customary starting
point for victory celebrations and parades. . Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
An unknown French soldier from
World War I is buried here.
KEY
1 The Battle of Aboukir, a bas-
relief by Seurre the Elder, depicts a
scene of Napoleon’s victory over
the Turkish army in 1799.
2 The frieze was executed by
Rude, Brun, Jacquet, Laitié,
Caillouette and Seurre the Elder. This
east façade shows the departure
of the French armies for new
campaigns. The west side shows
their return.
3 Thirty shields just below the
Arc’s roof each bear the name of a
victorious Napoleonic battle fought
in either Europe or Africa.
4 East façade
5 The viewing platform affords
one of the best views in Paris,
overlooking the Champs-Elysées
on one side, and the Grande Arche Triumph of Napoleon
de la Défense on the other.
J P Cortot’s high-relief
6 The Battle of Austerlitz by celebrates the Treaty
Gechter shows Napoleon’s army of Vienna peace
breaking up the ice on the Satschan agreement of 1810.
lake in order to drown thousands of
enemy troops.
7 Officers of the Imperial Army
are listed on the walls of the
smaller arches.
8 Entrance to museum
1806 Napoleon 1885 Victor Hugo’s body lies
commissions in state under the Arc 1944 Liberation of Paris.
Chalgrin to build 1836 Louis-Philippe De Gaulle leads the
triumphal Arc completes the Arc crowd from the Arc
1800 1850 1900
1840 Napoleon’s 1919 Victory
cortège passes parade of
under the Arc Allied armies
through
1815 Downfall of Napoleon. the Arc
Work on Arc ceases
212-213_EW_Paris.indd 212 03/04/17 10:57 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 3rd September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
CHA MPS-EL Y SEES 213
Napoleon’s Nuptial Parade VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Napoleon divorced Josephine Practical Information
in 1809 because she was Pl Charles de Gaulle. Map 4 D4.
unable to bear him children. Tel 01 55 37 73 77. Open Apr–
A diplomatic marriage was Sep: 10am–11pm daily; Oct–Mar:
arranged in 1810 with Marie- 10am–10:30pm daily (last adm:
Louise, daughter of the 45 min earlier). Closed am only
Austrian emperor. Napoleon 8 May, 14 Jul, 11 Nov; all day
was determined to impress 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 8 =
his bride by going through 7 ∑ arc-de-triomphe.
the Arc on their way to the monuments-nationaux.fr
wedding at the Louvre, but Transport
work had barely been started. q W Charles de Gaulle–Etoile.
So Chalgrin built a full-scale @ 22, 30, 31, 52, 73, 92 to
mock-up of the arch on the site Pl Charles de Gaulle. h off Pl
for the couple to pass beneath.
Charles de Gaulle.
General Marceau’s Funeral
Marceau defeated the Austrians in 1795, only to
be killed the following year, still fighting them.
. Departure of
the Volunteers
in 1792
François Rude’s
work shows citizens
leaving to defend
the nation.
Place Charles de Gaulle
Twelve avenues radiate from
the Arc at the centre. Some bear
the names of important French
military leaders, such as Avenues
Marceau and Foch (see pp36–7).
212-213_EW_Paris.indd 213 03/04/17 10:57 am
Havre BLVD HAUSSMANN
Caumartin BOUDREAU DIAGHILEV GLUCK Chaussée RUE CHAUCHAT RUE DROUOT PGE JOUFFROY
PLACE
RU
Auber
RUE
BOULEVARD DE R U E D E C A U M A R T I N R U E R U E F A V A R T R U E R I C H E L I E U Boulevards
BLVD H AUSSM ANN
RUE DU
RUE R U E
BLVD
RUE
Drouot
HELDER TAITBOUT
R U E T R O N C R U E V I G N O N H E T RUE GODOT DE MAUROY E DES MATHU RIN S S C R I B E A U B E R R U E H A L E V Y d'Antin BLVD DES ITALIENS Richelieu MONTMARTRE
R U E D E G R A M O N T
Grands
RUE DE LA MICHODIERE
BLVD DES
RUE SAINT-
CAPUCINES
ST
FIACRE
PLACE DE
MARC
L'OPERA
RUE VOLNEY Opéra
RUE DE SEZE
RUE FEYDEAU
Madeleine RUE DES CAPUCINES R UE D E L A PA I X DAUNOU LOU IS L E G RA N D RUE DU QUATRE SEPTEMBRE D E RUE DE LA V I V I E N N E PL DE LA BOURSE R MONTMARTREBLVD POISSONNI
LA MADELEINE
RUE DU S ENTIER
RUE
RUE D'ANTIN
RUE
RUE DE CHOISEUL
Quatre
BOURSE
R U E
AVE
Bourse
Septembre
DES VICTOIRES
R UE
RUE DES JEUNEURS
RUE ST AUGUSTIN
RUE DU
RUE DES FILLES ST THOMAS
P G E C H O I S E U L
RUE
R U E S T E A N N E
DE
R U E
CROISSANT
L CLADEL
GAILLON
COLBERT E N N E
RUE
RUE
RUE
DE LOUVOIS
RUE
MONTMARTRE
PAUL LELONG
R U E V I V I GAL. VIVIENNE R U E D E L A B A N Q U E RUE NOTRE-DAME RUE DU MAIL RUE DE CLÉRY
L'OPERA
RUE
CHERUBINI
RU E DAN IE LLE C ASA NOVA
R U E D E S P E T I T S C H A M P S
PLACE DES RUE D’ABOUKIR
VICTOIRES
214-215_EW_Paris.indd 214 25/04/16 4:18 pm
P ARIS AREA B Y AREA 215
OPERA QUARTER
Known for its Grands Boulevards and the around the Grands Boulevards are the
Opéra Garnier, this area has a 19th-century historic covered passageways, with their
grandeur to it, exemplified in Baron steel-and-glass roofs. The most opulent
Haussmann’s city planning and architecture. of these is the 1823 Galerie Vivienne,
Cutting through the district, the boulevards containing high-end boutiques and interior
Madeleine, Capucines, Italien and Montmartre design shops. More traditional are the
host a range of high-end businesses, Passages Verdeau, Panoramas and Jouffroy,
restaurants and shops, from the grands known for their antiques dealers, speciality
magasins to characterful shopping arcades. crafts and collectors’ shops. Night-time
During the day, the area is more of a business revellers will also find a host of clubs and
hub, its streets bustling with bankers, theatres in this area; the historic Olympia
publishers, editors and, of course, shoppers. concert hall has hosted many musicians and
The heart of the quarter is the world-famous singers over the years, including Edith Piaf,
opera house, with its Belle Epoque interior Johnny Halliday, The Beatles, Judy Garland,
and Chagall’s magnificent ceiling. Clustered The Supremes and Madonna.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Restaurants see pp298–300
2 Place de la Madeleine 1 L’Adjugé
3 Les Grands Boulevards 2 Café de la Paix
9 Le Grand Rex 3 Le Cap Bourbon
q Palais Brongniart 4 Caviar Kaspia
e Avenue de l’Opéra 5 Chartier
Churches 6 Chez Georges
7 Fauchon Le Café
1 La Madeleine
8 Les Noces de Jeannette
Shops 9 Racines
7 Drouot (Hôtel des Ventes) 10 Le Vaudeville
0 Les Passages
Opera Houses
4 Opéra National de Paris Garnier 0 metres 500
Museums and Galleries 0 yards 500
5 Bibliothèque-Musée de l’Opéra
6 Paris Story See also Street Finder
8 Musée Grévin maps 5–6
w Bibliothèque Nationale Richelieu
Havre BLVD HAUSSMANN
Caumartin BOUDREAU DIAGHILEV GLUCK Chaussée RUE CHAUCHAT RUE DROUOT PGE JOUFFROY
PLACE
RU
Auber
RUE
BOULEVARD DE R U E D E C A U M A R T I N R U E R U E F A V A R T R U E R I C H E L I E U Boulevards
BLV D HA USS M A N N
RUE DU
RUE R U E
BLVD
Drouot
RUE
HELDER TAITBOUT
R U E T R O N C R U E V I G N O N H E T RUE GODOT DE MAUROY E DES MATHU RIN S S C R I B E A U B E R R U E H A L E V Y d'Antin BLVD DES ITALIENS Richelieu MONTMARTRE
R U E D E G R A M O N T
Grands
RUE DE LA MICHODIERE
BLVD DES
RUE SAINT-
CAPUCINES
ST
FIACRE
PLACE DE
MARC
L'OPERA
RUE VOLNEY Opéra
RUE DE SEZE
RUE FEYDEAU
Madeleine RUE DES CAPUCINES R U E D E L A PA I X DAUNOU LOU IS L E G RA N D RUE DU QUATRE SEPTEMBRE RUE DE LA V I V I E N N E PL DE LA BOURSE R MONTMARTREBLVD POISSONNIÈRE
LA MADELEINE
RUE DU S ENTIER
RUE
D E
RUE
RUE D'ANTIN
RUE DE CHOISEUL
Quatre
BOURSE
R U E
AVE
Bourse
Septembre
DES VICTOIRES
RUE DES JEUNEURS
R UE
RUE ST AUGUSTIN
RUE DU
RUE DES FILLES ST THOMAS
RUE
P G E C H O I S E U L
R U E S T E A N N E
DE
R U E
CROISSANT
GAILLON
COLBERT E N N E
RUE
MONTMA
RUE
RUE
DE LOUVOIS
RUE
L CLADEL RTRE
PAUL LELONG
R U E V I V I GAL. VIVIENNE R U E D E L A B A N Q U E RUE NOTRE-DAME RUE DU MAIL RUE DE CLÉRY
L'OPERA
RUE
CHERUBINI
R U E DAN IE LLE C A SA NOVA
R U E D E S P E T I T S C H A M P S
PLACE DES RUE D’ABOUKIR
VICTOIRES
The ceiling of the foyer of the Opéra National de Paris Garnier For keys to symbols see back flap
214-215_EW_Paris.indd 215 25/04/16 4:18 pm
216 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
Street-by-Street: Opéra Quarter
It has been said that if you sit for long enough at the Café de
la Paix (opposite the Opéra National de Paris Garnier) the
whole world will pass by. During the day, the area is a
mixture of commerce – France’s top three banks are based
here – and tourism. A profusion of shops, ranging from the
chic, exclusive and expensive to popular department stores,
draws the crowds. In the evening, the theatres and cinemas
attract a totally different clientele, and the cafés along the
Boulevard des Capucines throb with life.
Statue by Gumery on the Opéra
T R U E A U B E R
E Y
2 Place de la Madeleine H O
On the north side C U R N I
of the square, the windows O N A T
of the Fauchon shop are R M R
filled with exquisite T N E A M
delicacies. U E O D U
R N T A
G O C
I
V D E
O U
E G
U R
R E
U
R R U E E D O U A R D V I I
B L V D D E S C A P U C I N E S
P L D E L A M A D E L E I N E
B L V D D E L A M A D E L E I N E 0 metres 100
Metro Madeleine 0 yards 100
Key
Suggested route
1 . La Madeleine
The final design of this church,
which is dedicated to Mary
Magdalene, differs from this original
model, now in the Musée
Carnavalet (see pp96–7).
216-217_EW_Paris.indd 216 03/04/17 10:57 am
OP E R A QU AR TER 217
OPERA
QUARTER
CHAMPS-
ELYSEES
TUILERIES QUARTER
BEAUBOURG
AND
LES HALLES
S e i n e
ST-GERMAIN-
DES-PRES
Locator Map
See Central Paris Map pp16–17
4 . Opéra National de Paris Garnier
With a mixture of styles ranging from Classical to
Baroque, this building from 1875 has come to
symbolize the opulence of the Second Empire.
PL DIA GHILE V
Metro Chaussée
d’Antin
H A L E V Y
R U E G L U C K
PLJ
R U E A U B E R
E CHE
B ROU
I 5 Bibliothèque-Musée
R de l’Opéra
C R U E
S The world of opera is
celebrated here.
PL CH
GARNIER
The Place de l’Opéra
E was designed by
U Baron Haussmann and
R
is one of Paris’s busiest
P L D E intersections.
R U E E D O U A R D V I I L’ O P E R A Metro Opéra
B L V D D E S C A P U C I N E S R U E D A U N O U L ’ P A V E D
O
E
R
E
A
The Café de la Paix maintains its
old-fashioned ways and still has
its 19th-century decor, designed by
Garnier. Their vanilla slices are
legendary (see p310).
3 . Les Grands
Boulevards
At No. 14 Boulevard des
Capucines, a plaque tells
Harry’s Bar was named of the world’s first public
after Harry MacElhone, a screening of a movie, by
bartender who bought the the Lumière brothers in
bar in 1913. Past regulars have 1895; it took place in the
included F Scott Fitzgerald Salon Indien, a room in
and Ernest Hemingway. the Grand Café.
216-217_EW_Paris.indd 217 03/04/17 2:49 pm
218 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
Charles Marochetti’s Mary Magdalene Ascending to Heaven (1837) behind the high altar of La Madeleine
1 La Madeleine marble and gilt, and has some chocolates. Fauchon, the
fine sculpture, notably François millionaires’ supermarket, is
Pl de la Madeleine 75008. Map 5 C5.
Tel 01 44 51 69 00. q Madeleine. Rude’s Baptism of Christ. situated at No. 26 and stocks
Open 9:30am–7pm daily. 5 12:30pm more than 20,000 items (see
(& 6:30pm in summer) Mon–Fri, 6pm 2 Place de la pp325, 327). The large house at
Sat, 9:30am, 11am & 6pm Sun. = No. 9 is where Marcel Proust
Concerts. See Entertainment pp338–9. Madeleine spent his childhood. To the
∑ eglise-lamadeleine.com east of La Madeleine is a small
75008. Map 5 C5. q Madeleine.
Flower market. Open flower market (see p330) and
This church, dedicated 8am–7:30pm Mon–Sat. some excellently preserved
to Mary Magdalene, 19th-century public toilets.
is one of the best- The Place de la
known build ings in Madeleine was Scenery backdrop
Paris because of its created at the operated by pulley
prominent locat ion same time as the
and great size. It Madeleine church.
stands facing south to It is a food lover’s
Place de la Concorde paradise, with many
and is the architectural shops special izing
counter point of the in luxuries such as
Palais-Bourbon (home truffles, champagne,
of the Assemblée Fauchon tin caviar and handmade
Nationale, the French
parliament) across the river. It
was started in 1764 but not Opéra National de
consecrated until 1845. There Paris Garnier
were proposals to convert it into
a parliament, a stock exchange
or the city’s first train station.
Napoleon decided to build
a temple dedicated to military
glory and he commissioned
Pierre Vignon to design it, after
the battle of Jena (Iéna) in 1806.
A colonnade of Corinthian
columns encircles the building
and supports a sculptured frieze.
The bas-reliefs on the bronze
doors by Henri de Triqueti
show the Ten Commandments.
The inside is decorated with Backstage area Stage
218-219_EW_Paris.indd 218 03/04/17 10:57 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.9)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
OPER A QU AR TER 219
3 Les Grands stone, marble and bronze) and
Boulevards styles, ranging from Classical to
Baroque, with a number of
75002 & 75009. Map 6 D5–7 C5.
q Madeleine, Opéra, Richelieu- columns, friezes and sculptures
Drouot, Grands Boulevards. on the exterior. The building was
not completed until 1875; work
A broad thoroughfare divided was interrup ted by the Prussian
into eight boulevards – War and 1871 uprising.
Madeleine, Capucines, Italiens, In 1858, Count Orsini had
Montmartre, Poissonnière, attempt ed to assassinate the
Bonne Nouvelle, St-Denis emperor outside the old opera
and St-Martin – runs from La house. This prompted Garnier to
Madeleine to the Place de include a pavilion on the east side
la République. The route was of the building, with a curved
constructed in the 17th century ramp leading up to it so that the
to turn obsolete city fortifications sovereign could safely step out
into fashionable promenades – Boulevard de la Madeleine of his carriage into the suite of
boulevard came from the rooms adjoining the royal box.
Middle Dutch bulwerc, which Grands Boulevards and the Behind the flat-topped foyer,
means bulwark or rampart. nearby department stores on the cupola sits above the
The boulevards became so Boulevard Haussmann still auditorium, while the triangular
famous in the 19th century attract large crowds. pediment that rises up behind
that the name boulevardier the cupola marks the front of
was coined for someone who 4 Opéra National the stage. Underneath the
cuts a figure on the boulevards. building is a small lake, which
Around the Madeleine church de Paris Garnier provided inspiration for the
and the Opéra, it is still possible Pl de l’Opéra 75009. Map 6 D4–E4. phantom’s hiding place in Paul
to gain an impression of what Tel 08 92 89 90 90. q Opéra. Leroux’s Phantom of the Opera,
the Grands Boulevards looked Open 10am–4:30pm daily (1pm on and is used by firemen for water
like in their heyday, lined with matinée days); mid-Jul–late Aug: rescue safety training.
cafés and chic shops. Elsewhere, 10am–5:30pm. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May. Don’t miss the magnificent
most of the cafés and restaurants & 8 in English 11am & 2:30pm Grand Staircase, made of white
have long since gone, and the daily; 5pm tour on Sat must be marble with a balustrade of red
old façades are now hidden by booked, online or on 0825 05 44 05. and green marble, and the
neon advertising. However, the 0 See Entertain ment pp337, 339. Grand Foyer, with its domed
∑ operadeparis.fr ceiling covered with mosaics.
Statue by Millet The five-tiered auditorium is a
Green copper Sometimes compared to a giant riot of red velvet, plaster cherubs
roofed cupola wedding cake, this build ing was and gold leaf. The false ceiling was
designed by Charles Garnier painted by Marc Chagall in 1964.
for Napoleon III; con struction Most operas are performed
started in 1862. Its unique at the Opéra Nationale de Paris
appearance is due to a mix- Bastille (see p102), but the ballet
ture of materials (including remains here.
Emperor’s pavilion Grand Foyer with
mosaic ceiling
Auditorium with seating for about 2,000 Grand Staircase
218-219_EW_Paris.indd 219 03/04/17 10:57 am
220 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
8 Musée Grévin
10 Blvd Montmartre 75009. Map 6 F4.
Tel 01 47 70 85 05. q Grands
Boulevards. Open 9am–7pm daily
(times can vary, call ahead to check).
7 - & = ∑ grevin.com
This waxwork museum was
founded in 1882 and is now
a Paris landmark, on a par
with Madame Tussauds in
London. It contains tableaux
of vivid historical scenes
(such as Louis XIV at Versailles
and the arrest of Louis XVI),
Model of a set for Les Huguenots (1875) in the Musée de l’Opéra the Palais des Mirages (a
giant walkin kaleidoscope)
5 Bibliothèque- visitors can listen to it in English and the Cabinet Fantastique,
Musée de l’Opéra via headphones. A 3D model which includes regular
of the city allows you to pin conjuring shows given by
Palais Garnier, corner of Rue Scribe point and learn about various a live magician. Famous figures
& Rue Auber, Pl de l’Opéra 75009. monuments with a description from the worlds of art, sport
Map 6 E5. Tel 01 53 79 37 40. of the 156 most important and and politics are also on show,
q Opéra. Open 10am–5pm Mon–
Sat. Closed 1 week in Sep, public hols. interesting sites. Plasma screens with new celebrities replacing
& 8 = show a sequence shot by the faded and forgotten stars.
Lumière Brothers in 1898.
The way into this small,
charming museum was once
the emperor’s private entrance 7 Drouot (Hôtel
to the Opéra. The museum tells des Ventes)
the history of opera and ballet
through an impressive 9 Rue Drouot 75009. Map 6 F4.
collection of scores, manu Tel 01 48 00 20 20. q Richelieu
scripts, photo graphs and artists’ Drouot. Open 11am–6pm Mon–Fri
(to 9pm Thu), sales from 2pm.
memorabilia. Other exhibits Also open some Sat & Sun, call
include paint ings, models of in advance. h ^ 8 =
stage sets and busts of major See Shops and Markets pp328–9.
composers. There is also a ∑ drouot.com
superb library, containing Le Grand Rex Art Deco tower
books and manu scripts on This is the leading French
theatre, dance and music. auction house (Hôtel des 9 Le Grand Rex
The museum organizes two Ventes) and it takes its name 1 Blvd Poissonnière 75002. Map 7 A5.
special exhibitions every year. from the Comte de Drouot Tel 01 45 08 93 89. q Bonne
who was Napoleon’s aide Nouvelle. ∑ legrandrex.com
decamp. There has been an
6 Paris Story auction house on the site since Considered a national
1858, and in 1860, Napoleon III monument, as well as an
11 bis Rue Scribe 75009. Map 6 D4.
Tel 01 42 66 62 06. q Opéra. visited the Hôtel and purchased innovative example of Art
Open 10am–6pm daily; show every a couple of earthen ware pots. Deco architecture, Le Grand
hour. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & = 9 It has been known as the Rex, built in 1932, was long
∑ paris-story.com Nouveau Drouot ever since touted as Europe’s most opulent
the 1970s, when the original cinema, hosting many red
Especially useful for the first building was demolished and carpet events. Still one of the
time visitor, this small museum replaced with today’s rather largest of its kind in Europe,
covers everything you need to dull structure. the Grand Rex is a fading
know about the history and Although overshadowed but beautiful symbol of the
architecture of Paris in an internationally by Christie’s history of cinema. The large
hourlong film and interactive and Sotheby’s, auctions at the auditorium has a starred ceiling,
display. The film covers 2,000 Nouveau Drouot nevertheless 2,800 seats and an enormous
years of history from Lutetia provide a lively spectacle and screen, the largest in Paris.
(the Roman name for Paris) involve a fascinating range of Every December, the cinema
to the Paris of today. The show rare objects. Its presence in hosts the Féerie des Eaux, a
is narrated by a holographic the area has attracted many familyfilm event featuring
figure of Victor Hugo and antiques and stamp shops. an onstage water show.
220-221_EW_Paris.indd 220 03/04/17 10:57 am
OPER A QU AR TER 221
François-Mitterrand (see p244)
at Tolbiac, the Rue Richelieu
buildings still contain a huge
variety of items, includ ing
original manuscripts by Victor
Hugo and Marcel Proust. The
library also has the richest
collection of engravings and
photographs in the world.
Sadly, the 19th-century reading
room is not open to the public.
The library is under going
renovation until 2019, how ever
it is still open to the public.
The elegant Galerie Vivienne, one of Paris’s covered shopping arcades
0 Les Passages the French Stock Exchange e Avenue de
from 1826 to 1987. It earlier l’Opéra
75002. Map 6 F5. q Bourse.
housed the trading floor of
These 19th-century shopping the Palais de la Bourse. 75001 & 75002. Map 6 E5.
arcades are located between Today, the French stock q Opéra, Pyramides.
Boulevard Montmartre and Rue market is located at 29 Rue
St-Marc, and between Rue du Cambon (not open to visits). This broad avenue is a notable
Quatre Septembre and Rue des This building is now used as example of Baron Haussmann’s
Petits Champs. At the time of a conference centre. dramatic modernization of Paris
their construction, around the in the 1860s and 1870s (see
1820s and 1830s, the passages pp36–7), and is the city’s only
represented a traffic-free area w Bibliothèque tree-less avenue. Much of the
for commerce, workshops and Nationale Richelieu medieval city (including a
apartments. They targeted the mound from which Joan of Arc
new bourgeoisie with amenities 58 Rue de Richelieu and 5 Rue began her crusade against the
such as gas lighting, shelter Vivienne 75002. Map 6 F5. Tel 01 53 English) was cleared to make
from the rain and mud, eating 79 59 59. q Bourse. Open 10am– way for the wide thorough fares.
establishments and shopping 6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat. Closed The Avenue de l’Opéra, running
public hols, 2 weeks in Sep. 8 by
all under one roof. They were appt; 01 53 79 49 49. ∑ bnf.fr from the Palais-Royal to the
the models for the future grand Opéra National de Paris Garnier,
magasins, or department stores, The Bibliotheque Nationale was completed in 1876. The
but eventually fell into disuse. In (National Library) originated uniformity of the five-storey
the 1970s, they were revamped with the manuscript collections buildings that line it contrasts
and now house an eclectic of medieval kings, to which, with those found in nearby
mixture of small shops selling by law, a copy of every French streets, which date from the
anything from rare books to book printed since 1537 has 17th and 18th centuries. Nearby,
designer jewellery. They have been added. The collec tion, in Place Gaillon, is the bar and
high, vaulted roofs of iron and which includes two Gutenberg restaurant Drouant where the
glass. Many have seen better Bibles, is partially housed in Goncourt Prize for literature is
days, but one of the most this complex. Despite the decided. The avenue is domi-
fashionable and high-end is the removal of the printed books, nated by travel and luxury
Galerie Vivienne (off Rue Vivienne periodi cals and CD-Roms to shops. The Institut d’Etudes
and Rue des Petits Champs), with the Biblio thèque Nationale Supérieures des Arts is at No. 5.
its designer boutiques, mosaic
floor, excellent tearoom and
Legrand Filles et Fils, one of the
best wine caves (cellars) in Paris.
q Palais Brongniart
(Bourse des Valeurs) 4 Pl de la Bourse
75002. Map 6 F5. q Bourse.
Closed to the public.
∑ palaisbrongniart.com
This Neo-Classical temple of
commerce was commis sioned
by Napoleon and was home to Avenue de l’Opéra
220-221_EW_Paris.indd 221 03/04/17 10:57 am
RUE CARPEAUX R U E L A M A R C K Lamarck R U E F R A N C O E U R
Caulaincourt
R U E C A U L A I N C O U R T
R U E G AN NE RO N R U E J O S E P H D E M A I S T R E RUE EUGENE CARRIERE R U E D A M R É M O N T RUE S DEREURE RUE LAMARCK R U E C U S T I N E
RUE BECQUEREL
A V E N U E
CIMETIÉRE DE R U E C A U L A I N C O U R T J U N O T RUE SAINT-VINCENT RUE LAMARCK R NICOLET RU E RAM EY
RUE BACHELET
MONTMARTRE R UE L E P I C R U E L E P I C RUE RUE NOR VINS RUE CORTOT RUE LAMARCK 7 • R FALCONET RUE POULET Rouge
Chateau
R PAUL ALBERT 9
RUE ST
RUSTIQUE
R U E M U L L E R
PLACE
R U E C AUL AI N CO U R T RUE JOSEPH DE MAISTRE R U E D E RUE BERTHE ST-PIERRE GUIBERT RUE DU CARD IS RUE RONSARD RUE A DEL.SARTE C L I G N A N C O U R T RUE MYRHA
D'ORCHAMPT
R AZA
RUE
CHRISTIANI
L E P I C
R CAVALLOTTI
R U E G A B R I E L L E
R U E D U R A N T I N
R U E
R U E
RUE
RUE
Abbesses RUE FOYATIER R CH NODIER RUE P PICARD R U E D E RUE DE SOFIA
V E R O N
FOREST
R PLANQUETTE
Blanche R U E DE S T R OIS FR E RES RUE Barbès
TARDIEU RUE D'ORSEL Rochechouart
RUE GERMAIN PILON S A B B E S S E S R. DES MARTYRS R U E D ' O R S E L RUE SEVESTE BLVD DE ROCHECHOUART
RUE HOUDON
RUE COUSTOU
ANTOINE
RUE A
PLACE
Anvers
C DULLIN
BLVD DE
B O U L E V A R D D E C L I C H Y
Pigalle ROCHECHOUART
200m
222-223_EW_Paris.indd 222 25/04/16 4:47 pm
P ARIS AREA B Y AREA 223
MONTMARTRE
Once a separate village outside Paris, and around the massive Sacré-Coeur, where
Montmartre still retains its charm, with street artists hoping to be discovered paint
narrow winding streets, cafés, a tiny vineyard tourists’ portraits and art galleries flourish.
and stunning views of the city. At the end of As the home of the Moulin Rouge, said to
the 19th century, this bohemian area had a have been the birthplace of the cancan dance,
reputation for decadence and free living, as Montmartre still has its fair share of cabarets,
well as low-cost housing, which made it into which continue to draw visitors to the area.
a magnet for artists, writers and intellectuals. While Upper Montmartre (Haut Montmartre)
The still-standing Bateau-Lavoir was a shared tends to be calmer and more residential, it is
studio and home to artists like Matisse, Lower Montmartre (Bas Montmartre), filled
Picasso, Modigliani and Cocteau. Nowadays, with lively bars and restaurants, that is
that creative spirit lives on in Place du Tertre famous for its nightlife and entertainment.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Cemeteries Restaurants see pp298–300
q Bateau-Lavoir e Cimetière de Montmartre 1 Babalou
r Moulin de la Galette Squares 2 La Balançoire
t Avenue Junot 3 Place du Tertre 3 Le Chamarré de Montmartre
Churches 9 Place des Abbesses 4 Chez Toinette
5 Crêperie Broceliande
1 Sacré-Coeur pp226–7 Theatres and Nightclubs 6 La Famille
2 St-Pierre de Montmartre 6 Au Lapin Agile 7 Le Grand 8
8 Chapelle du Martyre w Moulin Rouge 8 Guilo Guilo
0 St-Jean l’Evangéliste de 9 Le Lamarck
Montmartre Museums and Galleries 10 Le Miroir
4 Espace Dalí 11 Le Pantruche
Montmartre 12 Le Progrès
5 Musée de Montmartre 13 Rouge Bis
7 Halle Saint Pierre 14 Tentazioni
15 La Tiborna
16 Un Zèbre à Montmartre
0 metres 400
See also Street Finder 0 yards 400
maps 2, 6, 7
RUE CARPEAUX R U E L A M A R C K Lamarck R U E F R A N C O E U R
RUE EUGENE CARRIERE
Caulaincourt
R U E C A U L A I N C O U R T
R U E G AN NE RO N R U E J O S E P H D E M A I S T R E R U E D A M R É M O N T RUE S DEREURE RUE LAMARCK R U E C U S T I N E
RUE BECQUEREL
A V E N U E
CIMETIÉRE DE R U E C A U L A I N C O U R T J U N O T RUE SAINT-VINCENT RUE LAMARCK R NICOLET RU E R AMEY
RUE BACHELET
MONTMARTRE R UE L E P I C R U E L E P I C RUE RUE NOR VINS RUE CORTOT RUE LAMARCK 7 • R FALCONET RUE POULET Rouge
Chateau
R PAUL ALBERT 9
RUE ST
RUSTIQUE
R U E M U L L E R
PLACE
RU E CA U LA IN COU R T RUE JOSEPH DE MAISTRE R U E D E RUE BERTHE ST-PIERRE GUIBERT RUE DU CARD IS RUE RONSARD RUE A DEL.SARTE C L I G N A N C O U R T RUE MYRHA LV D B A R B E S
B
D'ORCHAMPT
R AZA
RUE
CHRISTIANI
L E P I C
R CAVALLOTTI
R U E G A B R I E L L E
R U E D U R A N T I N
R U E
R U E
RUE
RUE
Abbesses RUE FOYATIER R CH NODIER RUE P PICARD R U E D E RUE DE SOFIA
V E R O N
FOREST
R PLANQUETTE
Blanche R U E DE S T R OIS FR E RES RUE Barbès
TARDIEU RUE D'ORSEL Rochechouart
RUE GERMAIN PILON S A B B E S S E S R. DES MARTYRS R U E D ' O R S E L RUE SEVESTE
BLVD DE ROCHECHOUART
RUE HOUDON
ANTOINE
RUE COUSTOU
RUE A
PLACE
Anvers
C DULLIN
BLVD DE
B O U L E V A R D D E C L I C H Y
Pigalle ROCHECHOUART
200m
Display of vintage posters in Montmartre For map symbols see back flap
222-223_EW_Paris.indd 223 25/04/16 4:47 pm
224 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
Street-by-Street: Montmartre
The steep butte (hill) of Montmartre has been Clos Montmartre is one
associated with artists for over 200 years. of the last surviving
vineyards in Paris. The
Théodore Géricault and Camille Corot came grape harvest is
here at the start of the 19th century, and in celebrated on the first
the 20th century, Maurice Utrillo immortalized Saturday in October.
the streets in his works. Today, street painters
thrive on a lively tourist trade as visitors flock
to this picturesque district which in places still
preserves the atmosphere of pre-war Paris.
The name of the area is ascribed to local Metro Lamarck
martyrs tortured in Paris around AD 250, Caulaincourt
hence mons martyrium. RUE ST-VINCENT
6 . Au Lapin Agile RUE DE L’ABREUVOIR RUE
This rustic café and CORTOT
cabaret was a popular RUE DES SAULES
meeting point for
artists including
Picasso.
R U E RUE ST-RUSTIQUE RUE DU MONT CENIS
PL J B CLEMENT N O R V I N S
R U E L E P I C
5 . Musée de
Montmartre RUE POULBOT
The museum features the RUE DE LA MIRE
work of artists who lived in R
the area: this Portrait of a U
E
Woman (1918) is by the
RUE RAVIGNAN
Italian painter and sculptor S T - E L E U T H E R E
Amedeo Modigliani.
P L E R U E G A B R I E L L E
GOUDEA U RUE DREVET
R U E B E R T H E
4 Espace Dalí R U E D E S T R O I S F R E R E S
Montmartre
This is France’s only
permanent collection
of the Surrealist master’s
sculptures, paintings
and graphic works.
3 . Place du Tertre
The bustling square is the
tourist centre of Montmartre
and is full of portraitists and
other easel artists. Cafés and
bars surround the square.
224-225_EW_Paris.indd 224 25/04/16 4:18 pm
MONTM AR TRE 225
A La Mère Catherine was a favourite eating MONTMARTRE
place of Russian Cossacks in 1814. They would
bang on the table and shout “Bistro!” (Russian
for “quick”) – hence the Paris bistro was born.
OPERA
QUARTER
0 metres 100 TUILERIES QUARTER BEAUBOURG
AND
LES HALLES
0 yards 100
Locator Map
See Central Paris Map pp16–17
Key
Suggested route
RUE ST-VINCENT
1 . Sacré-Coeur
This Romano-
Byzantine church,
RUE
started in the 1870s and
CORTOT
completed in 1914, has
many treasures, such
as this figure of Christ
RUE DU MONT CENIS P A E R E B L
RUE ST-RUSTIQUE RUE DU CHEVALIER RUE LAMARCK L U T by Eugène Benet (1911).
N O R V I N S
PL DU PARVAIS U R A
DU SACRE-
G U I B E R T
COEUR
RUE DU CARDINAL
RUE AZAIS
R
U
E
RUE DU
CARDINAL DUBOIS
S T - E L E U T H E R E
R U E G A B R I E L L E
RUE DREVET R E I D O
S Q
W I L L E T T E N H 2 St-Pierre de Montmartre
R U E B E R T H E
C This church became the Temple
E E of Reason during the Revolution.
P U
P R
A
R U E D E S T R O I S F R E R E S
H
C
E
U
R P L S T - P I E R R E
R U E T A R D I E U STEINKERQUE
RUE DE
Square Willette lies below
the parvis (forecourt) of
The funiculaire, or cable Sacré-Coeur. It is laid out 7 Halle Saint Pierre
railway, at the end of Rue Foyatier on the side of the hill in a The museum hosts exhibitions
takes you to the foot of the series of descending terraces of Art Brut and Naïve Art. This oil
basilica of Sacré-Coeur. Metro with lawns, shrubs, trees painting, L’Opéra de Paris (1986),
tickets are valid on it. and flowerbeds. is by L Milinkov.
224-225_EW_Paris.indd 225 25/04/16 4:18 pm
226 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
1 Sacré-Coeur
At the outbreak of the Franco-Prussian War in 1870, two
Catholic businessmen made a private religious vow to
build a church dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Christ,
should France be spared the impending Prussian
onslaught. The two men, Alexandre Legentil and Hubert
Rohault de Fleury, lived to see Paris saved from
invasion despite the war and a lengthy siege – and
the start of work on the Sacré-Coeur basilica. The
project was taken up by Archbishop Guibert of
Paris. Work began in 1875 to Paul Abadie’s
designs. They were inspired by the Romano-
Byzantine church of St-Front in Périgueux. The Principal Façade
The basilica was completed in 1914, but its The best view of the domed
consecration was forestalled by World War I and turreted Sacré-Coeur is
until 1919, when France was victorious. from the gardens below.
. Great Mosaic of Christ
The colossal mosaic
(1912–22) dominating the
chancel vault was designed
by Luc Olivier Merson and
Marcel Magne.
Virgin Mary
and Child (1896)
This Renaissance-style
silver statue is one of
two in the ambulatory
by P Brunet.
KEY
1 The bell tower (1895) is 83 m
(252 ft) high and contains one of the
heaviest bells in the world. The bell
itself weighs 18.5 tonnes and the
clapper 850 kg (1,900 lb).
2 Spiral staircase
3 The inner structure supporting
the dome is made from stone.
4 The stained-glass gallery
affords a view of the whole of . Crypt Vaults
the interior. A chapel in the basilica’s
crypt contains Legentil’s
heart in a stone urn.
226-227_EW_Paris.indd 226 03/04/17 10:57 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 3rd September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
MONTM AR TRE 227
The Siege of Paris VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Prussia invaded France in 1870. Practical Information
During the four-month siege of 33 Rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre
Paris, instigated by the Prusso- 75018. Map 6 F1. Tel 01 53 41 89
German statesman Otto von 00. Basilica: Open 6am– 10:30pm
Bismarck, hungry Parisians were daily. Dome: Open May–Sep:
forced to eat the city’s horses 8:30am–8pm daily; Oct–Apr: 9am–
and other animals. 5pm daily (note that there are 300
steps to the viewing area). Crypt:
Closed to the public. & for
dome. 5 7am, 11:15am, 6.30pm,
10pm Mon–Fri (processional at
3pm Fri); 7am, 11:15am, 10pm
Sat; 7am, 11am, 6pm, 10pm Sun.
^ 7 restricted. = ∑ sacre-
coeur-montmartre.com
. Ovoid Dome Transport
This is the second-highest point q Abbesses (then take
in Paris, after the Eiffel Tower. funiculaire to the steps of the
Sacré-Coeur), Anvers, Barbès-
Rochechouart, Lamarck-
Caulaincourt. @ 30, 31, 54, 80, 85.
h Blvd de Clichy, Rue Custine.
Statue of Christ
The basilica’s most important
statue is symbolically placed
above the two bronze saints.
Equestrian Statues
The statue of Joan of Arc is one of
a pair by H Lefèbvre. The other is
of Saint Louis.
. Bronze Doors
Relief sculptures on the doors in
Main entrance the portico entrance illustrate
scenes from the life of Christ,
such as the Last Supper.
226-227_EW_Paris.indd 227 03/04/17 10:57 am
228 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
3 Place du Tertre Surrealist works to a soundtrack
of Dalí’s recorded voice. This
75018. Map 6 F1. q Abbesses.
fascin at ing museum also
Tertre means “hillock”, or houses a commercial art gallery,
mound, and this picturesque a library and a shop selling
square is the highest point in books, prints and postcards.
Paris at some 130 m (430 ft). It
was once the site of the abbey 5 Musée de
gallows but is asso ciated with
artists, who began exhibiting Montmartre
paintings here in the 19th 12 Rue Cortot 75018. Map 2 F5.
century. It is lined with Tel 01 49 25 89 37. q Abbesses,
colourful restaurants – La Mère Anvers, Blanche, Lamarck-
Catherine dates back to 1793. Caulaincourt. Open 10am–6pm daily
The house at No. 21 was (Jun–Sep: to 7pm). & ^ =
Paintings for sale and a restaurant on Place formerly the home of the ∑ museedemontmartre.fr
du Tertre, in Montmartre irreverent “Free Commune”,
founded in 1920 to perpetuate During the 17th century, this
2 St-Pierre de the Bohemian spirit of the area. charming home belonged to
Montmartre The Old Montmartre infor- the actor Roze de Rosimond
mation office is now here. (Claude de la Rose), a member
2 Rue du Mont-Cenis 75018. of Molière’s theatre company
Map 6 F1. Tel 01 46 06 57 63. who, like his mentor Molière,
q Abbesses. Open 9am–7:30pm died during a performance of
daily (to 6pm Fri). 5 various times. Molière’s play Le Malade
7 Concerts. ∑ saintpierrede
montmartre.net Imaginaire. From 1875, the
big white house, undoubtedly
Situated in the shadow of the the finest in Montmartre,
Sacré-Coeur basilica, St-Pierre provided living and studio
de Montmartre is one of the space for art ists, including
oldest churches in Paris. It is Maurice Utrillo and his mother,
all that remains of the great Suzanne Valadon, a former
Benedictine Abbey of acrobat and model who
Montmartre, which was became a talented painter,
founded in 1133 by Louis VI as well as Raoul Dufy and
and his wife, Adelaide of Savoy, Auguste Renoir.
who, as its first abbess, is The museum recounts the
buried here. history of Montmartre from the
Inside the church are four days of the abbesses to the
marble columns supposedly present, through artifacts,
from a Roman temple which Surrealist artist Salvador Dalí drawings and photographs. It is
once stood on the site. The particularly rich in memo rabilia
vaulted choir dates from 4 Espace Dalí of Bohemian life, and has a
the 12th century, the nave Montmartre reconstruction of the Café de
was remodelled in the 15th l’Abreuvoir, Utrillo’s favourite
century and the west front 11 Rue Poulbot 75018. Map 6 F1. watering hole.
in the 18th. During the Tel 01 42 64 40 10. q Abbesses.
Revolution, the abbess Open 10am–6pm daily (to 8pm Jul–
Aug). & 8 = 9 ∑ daliparis.com
was executed by
guillotine, and the
church fell into A permanent exhi-
disuse. St-Pierre bition of 330 works
was reconsecrated by the prolific
in 1908. Gothic- painter and sculptor
style stained-glass Salvador Dalí is
windows replace displayed here at the
those destroyed heart of Montmartre.
by a bomb in Inside, the vast, dark
World War II. The setting reflects the
tiny cemetery dramatic character
opens to the of this 20th-century
public only genius as moving
once a year, on lights grace first one,
1 November. Doors to St-Pierre church then another, of his Café de l’Abreuvoir reconstructed
228-229_EW_Paris.indd 228 03/04/17 10:57 am
MONTM AR TRE 229
The deceptively rustic exterior of Au Lapin Agile, in the heart of Montmartre
6 Au Lapin Agile painting was sold at auction a museum and gallery devoted
for $67.5 million. to these “raw” art forms. It also
22 Rue des Saules 75018. Map 2 F5.
Tel 01 46 06 85 87. q Lamarck- Today, the cabaret venue hosts avant-garde theatre and
Caulaincourt. Open 9pm–1am manages to retain much of its musical productions, holds
Tue–Sun. See Entertainment pp334, 336. original atmosphere. regular literary evenings and
∑ au-lapin-agile.com debates and runs children’s
work shops. The permanent
The former Cabaret des Assassins 7 Halle Saint Pierre collection includes more than
derived its current name from a Halle St-Pierre, 2 Rue Ronsard 75018. 500 works of Naïve art collected
sign painted by the humorist Map 7 A1. Tel 01 42 58 72 89. by the publisher Max Fourny in
André Gill. His picture of a rabbit q Anvers. Open 10am–6pm Mon– the 1970s. There is also a
escaping from a cooking pot (Le Fri, 11am–7pm Sat, noon–6pm Sun specialist bookshop and café.
Lapin à Gill) is a pun on his own (Aug: noon–6pm Mon–Fri). Closed
name. The club enjoyed popular- some public hols. & ^ 7 - = 8 Chapelle du
ity with intellectuals and artists ∑ hallesaintpierre.org
at the start of the 20th century. Martyre
Here in 1911, the novelist Roland In 1945, the French painter 9 Rue Yvonne-Le-Tac 75018. Map 6 F1.
Dorgelès and a group of other Jean Dubuffet developed the q Pigalle. Open 3–5pm Fri, 1st Sat &
regulars staged one of the concept of Art Brut (Outsider or Sun of each month.
modern art world’s most Marginal Art) to describe works
celebrated hoaxes, with the help created outside the boundaries This 19th-century chapel stands
of the café owner’s donkey, Lolo. of “official” culture, often by on the site of a medieval
A paintbrush was tied to Lolo’s psychiatric patients, prisoners convent chapel, which was said
tail, and the resulting daub was and children. The Halle Saint to mark the place where the
shown to critical acclaim at the Pierre, at the foot of the Butte, is early Christ ian martyr and first
Salon des Indépendants, under bishop of Paris, Saint Denis,
the enlightening title Sunset was beheaded by the Romans
over the Adriatic, before the joke in AD 250. It remained a major
was revealed. pilgrimage site throughout the
In 1903, the premises were Middle Ages. In 1534, in the
bought by the cabaret crypt of the original chapel,
entrepreneur Aristide Bruand Ignatius de Loyola, founder of
(painted in a series of posters by the Society of Jesus (the mighty
Toulouse-Lautrec). The venue Jesuit order designed to save
was depicted by Pablo Picasso the Catholic Church from the
in an oil painting which was onslaught of the Protestant
sold for $20 by the cabaret’s Reformation), took his Jesuit
owner in 1912. In 1989, the Art Brut at Halle Saint Pierre vows with six companions.
228-229_EW_Paris.indd 229 03/04/17 10:57 am
230 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
q Bateau-Lavoir
13 Pl Emile-Goudeau 75018. Map 6
F1. q Abbesses. Closed to public.
This ramshackle tenement
building took its name from
its resemblance to the laundry
boats that used to operate
along the River Seine. Between
1890 and 1920, it was home
to some of the most talented
artists and poets of the day.
They lived in squalid conditions
with only one tap and took it
in turns to sleep in the beds.
Picasso, Raoul Dufy, Van
Dongen, Marie Laurencin,
Juan Gris, Modigliani and Jean
Cocteau were just a few of
the famous residents. It was
here that Picasso painted Les
Demoiselles d’Avignon in 1907,
generally regarded as the
painting that inspired Cubism
as a movement. The original
building burned down in 1970,
but a concrete replica has been
built – with studio space for
up-and-coming artists.
The famous silhouette of the Moulin Rouge nightclub
9 Place des by the architect Hector w Moulin Rouge
Abbesses Guimard, it is one of the few 82 Blvd de Clichy 75018. Map 6 E1.
original Art Nouveau stations.
75018. Map 6 F1. q Abbesses. Tel 01 53 09 82 82. q Blanche. Open
Dinner: 7pm; shows: 9pm and 11pm
This is one of Paris’s most 0 St-Jean daily. & = See Entertainment
pp335–6. ∑ moulinrouge.fr
picturesque squares. It is l’Evangéliste de
sandwiched between the rather Montmartre Built in 1885, the Moulin Rouge
dubious attractions of Place was turned into a dance hall as
Pigalle, with its strip clubs, and 19 Rue des Abbesses 75018. Map 6 F1. early as 1900. The cancan
the Place du Tertre which is Tel 01 46 06 43 96. q Abbesses. originated in Montparnasse,
mobbed by hundreds of tourists. Open 9am–7pm Mon–Sat; 9:30am– in the polka gardens of the
Be sure not to miss the Abbesses 6pm Sun (to 7pm summer). Rue de la Grande-Chaumière,
Metro station with its unusual 5 12:15pm Tue & Thu, 6:30pm but it will always be
green wrought-iron arches Sat, 10:30am Sun. 8 ∑ saint associated with the
and amber lights. Designed jeandemontmartre.com Moulin Rouge,
where the wild
Designed by and colourful
Anatole de dance shows were
Baudot and immortalized in
completed in the posters and
1904, this church drawings of Henri
was the first to be de Toulouse-Lautrec.
built from reinforced The high-kicking
concrete. The flower routines of famous
motifs on the interior Detail of St-Jean “Dorriss girls” such as
are typical of Art l’Evangéliste façade Yvette Guilbert and
Nouveau, while its Jane Avril continue
interlocking arches suggest today in a glittering, Las Vegas-
Islamic architecture. The red- style revue that includes
brick facing has earned it the sophisticated light shows
Entrance to the Abbesses Metro nickname St-Jean-des-Briques. and displays of magic.
230-231_EW_Paris.indd 230 03/04/17 10:49 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.9)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
MONTM AR TRE 231
e Cimetière de the 19th century, both mills
Montmartre became famous dance halls
providing inspiration for many
20 Ave Rachel 75018. Map 2 D5. artists, notably Pierre-Auguste
Tel 01 53 42 36 30. q Place de Clichy, Renoir and Vincent Van Gogh.
Blanche. Open 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, The steep Rue Lepic is a busy
8:30am–6pm Sat, 9am–6pm Sun; shopping area. The Impressionist
closes at 5:30pm in winter. 7 8 call
01 53 42 36 30. painter Armand Guillaumin once
lived on the first floor of No. 54.
This has been the resting place Van Gogh inhabited its third floor,
for many artistic luminaries since and painted the view from there.
the beginning of the 19th
century. The composers Hector
Berlioz and Jacques Offenbach t Avenue Junot
(who wrote the famous cancan 75018. Map 2 E5. q Lamarck-
tune) are buried here, along side Moulin de la Galette Caulaincourt.
many other celebrities such as
La Goulue (stage name of whose works are now some of Opened in 1910, this broad,
Louise Weber, the high-kicking the most enduring images of peaceful street includes many
danseuse who was the can can’s the district. painters’ studios and beautiful
first star performer and Toulouse- Art Deco houses. No. 13 has
Lautrec’s model), the painter r Moulin de la mosaics designed by its former
Edgar Degas, writer Alexandre resident, illustrator Francisque
Dumas fils, German poet Galette Poulbot, who was famous for his
Heinrich Heine, Russian dancer T-junction at Rue Tholozé and Rue drawings of children and street
Vaslav Nijinsky and film director Lepic 75018. Map 2 E5. q Lamarck- urchins. At No. 15 is Maison
François Truffaut. It’s an Caulaincourt, Abbesses. Tristan Tzara, named after its
evocative, atmospheric place, previous owner, the Romanian
conveying some of the heated Once, some 14 windmills dotted Dadaist poet. Its eccentric design
energy and artistic creativity of the Montmartre skyline and were by the Austrian architect Adolf
Montmartre a century ago. used for grinding wheat and Loos aimed to complement the
Nearby, close to Square Roland pressing grapes. Today, only two poet’s character. No. 23 is Villa
Dorgelès, is another, smaller, remain, both on Rue Lepic: the Léandre, with its quaint Anglo-
often over looked Montmartre Radet, now above a restaurant Norman style houses.
cemetery – Cimetière St-Vincent. confusingly named Moulin de la Just off the Avenue Junot up
Here lie more of the great artistic Galette and the reconstructed the steps of the Allée des
names of the district, including Moulin de la Galette, originally Brouillards is an 18th-century
Swiss composer Arthur Honegger built in 1622 and formerly known architectural folly, the Château
and the writer Marcel Aymé. as the Blute-fin. One of its mill des Brouillards. In the 19th
Most notable of all at owners, Debray, was supposedly century, it was the home of the
St-Vincent is the grave of the crucified on the windmill’s sails French Symbolist writer Gérard
great French painter Maurice during the 1814 Siege of Paris. He de Nerval, who took his pet
Utrillo, the quintessential had been trying to repulse the lobster for walks inthe Palais-
Montmartre artist, many of invading Cossacks. At the end of Royal gardens.
Cimetière de Montmartre, the final resting place of many famous artists and writers
230-231_EW_Paris.indd 231 03/04/17 10:49 am
232-233_EW_Paris.indd 232 25/04/16 4:20 pm
P ARIS AREA B Y AREA 233
FURTHER AFIELD
Away from the centre, but still within the Internet start-ups. Beyond the périphérique,
périphérique beltway circling Paris, the city the Bois de Boulogne and Bois de Vincennes
becomes greener. Former working-class areas are two of the city’s largest public parks, with
like Belleville, Ménilmontant and Batignolles ponds, flower gardens and children’s activities.
are turning into bobo (bourgeois bohemian) Beautiful cathedrals and chateaux also beckon,
villages, with hip bars, vintage markets and such as Versailles, evoking royal grandeur.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Streets Leisure Parks f Musée Marmottan-Monet
7 Portes St-Denis et St-Martin 9 Parc de la Villette pp238–41 h Musée des Années 30
y Bibliothèque Nationale v Disneyland® Paris pp256–9 Neighbourhoods
François Mitterrand Parks, Gardens and Canals
o Cité Universitaire 2 Parc Monceau 5 Batignolles
0 Belleville and Ménilmontant
s Rue la Fontaine 8 Parc des Buttes-Chaumont t Bercy
d Fondation Le Corbusier w Canal St-Martin u 13th Arrondissement
j Versailles pp250–55 i Parc Montsouris a Front de Seine (Beaugrenelle)
k Château de Malmaison p Parc André Citroën
l La Défense Cemeteries
g Bois de Boulogne
Churches c Château et Bois de Vincennes q Cimetière du Père Lachaise
pp242–3
1 Cathédrale St-Alexandre-Nevsky Museums and Galleries
x Basilique-Cathédrale de
Saint-Denis 3 Musée Nissim de Camondo
4 Musée Cernuschi
Markets 6 Musée Gustave Moreau
e Marché d’Aligre r Musée de l’Histoire
z Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen de l’Immigration
Key
0 km 5
Main sightseeing areas
0 miles 3 Motorways
Major Roads
Sights Outside the Centre
St-Denis
A86 A1
A15
Bezons Asniéres-sur-
Seine
A86
A14 Bobigny
D7
Nanterre BLVD PERIPHERIQUE N3
A3
Rueil
Malmaison
A86 Montreuil
PARIS
St-Cloud
Boulogne
A13 BLVD PERIPHERIQUE
A4
D910
Versailles
Meudon Montrouge A86
A6B D5
l’Haÿ-
A6A
D906 les-Roses
N118
Formal garden at Versailles For additional keys to symbols see back flap
232-233_EW_Paris.indd 233 25/04/16 4:20 pm
234 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
Further Afield Greek-cross plan and the rich acquired by the state and half
within the interior mosaics and frescoes the land sold off for property
are Neo-Byzantine in style, while
development. The remaining
Périphérique the exterior and gilt domes are land was made into public
traditional Russian Orthodox. gardens. These were restored
Paris’s Russian population and new buildings erected by
increased dramatically follow ing Adolphe Alphand, architect of
the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917, the Bois de Boulogne and the
when thou sands of Rus sians fled Bois de Vincennes.
to France for safety. Rue Daru, in The park, one of the most chic
which the cathedral stands, and in Paris, has lost many of its early
the surrounding area form “Little features. A naumachia basin –
Russia”, with its Russian schools an ornamental version of a
and the many dance academies, Roman pool used for simulating
tea shops and bookshops. naval battles – remains, flanked
by Corinthian columns. There
2 Parc Monceau are also a Renaissance arcade,
pyramids, a river and the
35 Blvd de Courcelles 75017. Map 5 A3. Pavillon de Chartres, a charming
Tel 01 42 27 39 56. q Monceau. Open rotunda designed by Nicolas
7am–8pm daily (to 10pm summer). Ledoux which was once used
See Eight Guided Walks pp262–3. as a tollhouse. Just south of
The gilded domes of the 19th-century here is a huge red pagoda,
Cathédrale St-Alexandre-Nevsky This green haven dates back which now houses a gallery
to 1778 when the Duc de devoted to Asian art.
1 Cathédrale Chartres (later Duc d’Orléans)
St-Alexandre- commissioned the painter-writer
Nevsky and amateur landscape designer
Louis Carmontelle to create a
12 Rue Daru 75008. Map 4 F3. magnificent garden. Also a
Tel 01 42 27 37 34. q Courcelles. theatre designer, Carmontelle
Open 3pm–5pm Tue, Fri, Sun. 5 6pm created a “garden of dreams”, an
Sat, 10am Sun. ^ 8 by appt (book exotic landscape full of the
at [email protected]). architectural follies in imitation of
English and German fashions of
This imposing Russian Orthodox the time. In 1783, the Scottish
cathedral with its five golden- landscape gardener Thomas
copper domes was designed by Blaikie laid out an area of the
members of the St Petersburg garden in English style. The park
Fine Arts Academy and financed was the scene of the first
jointly by Tzar Alexander II and recorded parachute landing,
the local Russian community. made by André-Jacques
The cathedral was completed Garnerin on 22 October 1797. Musée Nissim de Camondo, housing a
in 1861. Inside, a wall of icons Over the years, the park changed collection of decorative arts
divides the church in two. The hands and in 1852 it was
3 Musée Nissim de
Camondo
63 Rue de Monceau 75008.
Map 5 A3. Tel 01 53 89 06 40, 01 53
89 06 50. q Monceau, Villiers.
Open 10am–5:30pm Wed–Sun
(last adm: 4:30pm). Closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 25 Dec, public hols. & 7
restricted. ∑ lesartsdecoratifs.fr
Comte Moïse de Camondo,
a leading Jewish financier
during the Belle Epoque,
commissioned this mansion
in 1914. It was built in the
style of the Petit Trianon, at
Versailles (see pp250–55), to
Colonnade beside the naumachia basin in the Parc Monceau house a rare collection of
234-235_EW_Paris.indd 234 03/04/17 10:57 am
FUR THER AFIELD 235
18th-century furniture, and the covered market on
tapestries, paintings and other Rue Lemercier, which dates
precious objects. The museum back to 1846. At weekends,
has been faithfully and lovingly families converge on the
restored to recreate an area’s several parks, the two
aristocratic town house of the largest being the Square des
Louis XV and Louis XVI eras. Batignolles and the Parc Clichy –
In the museum, there are Martin Luther King, which
Savonnerie carpets, Beauvais features playgrounds, duck
tapestries and the Buffon ponds, a skate park and running
service (Sèvres porcelain). trails. The area had been
The very latest gadgets, for earmarked to be the Olympic
the period, are now displayed Village during the bid for the
in the restored kitchen and 2012 Games, which Paris lost
service quarters, equipped to London. The district has
with the utmost efficiency, undergone substantial
taste and forethought by The magnificent carved altarpiece in the development since then, and
their owner. church of Sainte-Marie des Batignolles there are new apartments,
shops and office buildings.
5 Batignolles
4 Musée Cernuschi Batignolles, 75007. q Porte de Clichy, 6 Musée Gustave
7 Ave Vélasquez 75008. Map 5 A3. Place de Clichy. Moreau
Tel 01 53 96 21 50. q Villiers, Formerly used as a royal hunting
Monceau. Open 10am–6pm ground, this neighbourhood in 14 Rue de la Rochefoucauld 75009.
Tue–Sun (last adm: 5:30pm). Map 6 E3. Tel 01 48 74 38 50.
Closed public hols. 9 8 = the 17th arrondissement of q Trinité. Open 10am–12:45pm,
∑ cernuschi.paris.fr northwestern Paris later 2–5:15pm Mon, Wed, Thu, 10am–
grew into a small hamlet. 5:15pm Fri–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
One of the oldest Although it officially 25 Dec. & = ∑ musee-moreau.fr
museums in Paris, the became part of the city
Cernuschi is housed in the second half of the The Symbolist painter Gustave
in a splendid, light- 19th century, it still Moreau (1825–98), known
filled mansion near feels like a small for his vivid, imagin ative
Parc Mon ceau French village inside works depicting biblical and
and contains an cosmopolitan Paris. mythological fantasies, left
intrigu ing private In the 19th century, to the French state a vast
collection of late the area had a lively collection of more than
East Asian art, cultural vibe and 1,000 oils, watercolours
which was counted among and some 4,000 drawings
amassed by the its residents the in his town house. One of
Milanese-born painter Edouard Moreau’s best-known and
politi cian and Manet and his most outstanding works, Jupiter
banker Enrico fellow artists, and Semele, can be seen here.
Cernuschi (1821– who became There is also a superb collection
96). The original Bodhisattva in the known as the of his unfinished sketches.
bequest of 5,000 Musée Cernuschi Groupe des
lacquered, ceramic, Batignolles, the
bronze and ivory items writer Emile Zola and, later, the
has been augmented by a Belgian singer Jacques Brel.
number of donations and The lovely Church of Sainte-
acquisitions over the years. Marie des Batignolles sits in the
The wide-ranging collection, heart of the neighbourhood.
now about 10,000 items, While Batignolles has a calm,
includes a 5th-century seated community feel, it also has a
Bodhisattva (Buddhist divine slightly urban atmosphere,
being) from Yunkang; La Tigresse with a good mix of lively
(a heavily decorated Shang bars, stylish boutiques and
Dynasty bronze vase dating restaurants. It was one of the
from the 12th century BC); first areas in Paris to label their
and Horses and Grooms, an new class of residents bobos, or
8th-century T’ang painting bourgeois bohemians.
on silk attributed to the era’s Two markets are held in the
greatest horse painter, court area: the organic Marché Angel Traveller by Gustave Moreau, in the
artist Han Kan. Biologique des Batignolles Musée Gustave Moreau
234-235_EW_Paris.indd 235 03/04/17 10:57 am
236 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
7 Portes St-Denis
et St-Martin
Blvds St-Denis & St-Martin 75010.
Map 7 B5, C5. q Strasbourg-St-Denis.
These imposing gates give
access to the two ancient
and important thoroughfares
whose names they bear,
running across Paris in a
north–south direction. They
once marked the entrance
to the city. The Porte St-Denis
is 23 m (76 ft) high and was
built in 1672 by François
Blondel. It is decorated
with figures by Louis XIV’s Western arch of the Porte St-Denis, once the entrance to the city
sculptor, François Girardon.
The gates commemorate Napoleon III’s many projects 0 Belleville and
victories of the king’s armies to renovate the city (see pp36– Ménilmontant
in Flanders and the Rhine 7). Baron Haussmann worked
that year. Porte St-Martin with the landscape architect/ 75011, 75012, 75019, 75020.
is 17 m (56 ft) tall and was designer Adolphe Alphand, who Le Food Market: Blvd de Belleville.
built in 1674 by Pierre Bullet. organized a vast programme q Couronnes, Ménilmontant.
It celebrates Besançon’s to furnish the new pavement- Open 6pm–10:30pm one Thu per
month. ∑ lefoodmarket.fr
capture and the defeat of lined avenues with benches Edith Piaf Museum: 5 Rue Crespin-
the Triple Alliance of Spain, and lampposts. Others involved du-Gast. Tel 01 43 55 52 72.
Holland and Germany. in the creation of this large park q Ménilmontant. Open by
were the engineer Darcel and appointment only, 1–6pm Mon–Wed.
8 Parc des Buttes- the landscape gardener Barillet-
Chaumont Deschamps. They created a Originally two separate villages
on the outskirts of the capital,
lake, made an island with real
Rue Manin 75019 (main access from and artificial rocks, gave it a the neighbourhoods of
Rue Armand Carrel). q Botzaris, Roman-style temple (the Belleville and Ménilmontant
Buttes-Chaumont. Open 7am–8pm Temple de la Sibylle, modelled now share four different
daily (open 24 hrs in summer). 8 0 after the Temple of Sybil in arrondissements in Paris: the
See pp272–3. Tivoli, Italy) and added a 11th, 12th, 19th and 20th. In
waterfall, streams, two foot- the past, the local population
For many, this is the most bridges leading to the island tended to be mainly working
pleasant and unexpected park and beaches. Today, visitors class and multi-ethnic – a
in the city. The panoramic hilly will also find boating facilities combination of Chinese,
site was formerly a gallows for and donkey rides. North African and Jewish.
the execution of criminals, a Nowadays, although both
lime quarry and a rubbish 9 Parc de la Villette quarters remain diverse, they
dump. It was converted in have proved popular with
the mid-1860s, one of See pp238–41. young professionals, who
have moved in looking for
affordable rents, a lively
nightlife, organic markets
and a dynamic arts scene.
This delightful mix of
inexpensive and sophisticated
has contributed to creating
a modern but charming
neighbourhood. Food-wise,
Belleville is known as the
second Chinatown, rivalling
the one in the 13th
arrondissement, with many
authentic restaurants and a
Chinese New Year’s parade. The
hip monthly Le Food Market
The Temple de la Sibylle, high above the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont has sprung up in Ménilmontant,
236-237_EW_Paris.indd 236 03/04/17 10:57 am
FUR THER AFIELD 237
featuring up-and-coming
chefs and innovative cuisine.
Be sure to put your name on
their mailing list to be informed
of their next event.
The two largest pockets of
green in these neighbourhoods
are the Parc de Belleville and
the cemetery at Père Lachaise
(see pp242–3), where the likes
of Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf
and Oscar Wilde are buried.
The Parc de Belleville has
something for everyone, from
a skate park and children’s
playgrounds to lush picnic
areas. Towards the top of the Views over Paris from the top of the Parc de Belleville
park, there is even a small
vineyard, covered with Pinot e Marché d’Aligre Alfred Janniot, depicting the
Meunier and Chardonnay vines Place d’Aligre 75012. Map 14 F5. contributions of France’s
that produce a handful of kilos q Ledru-Rollin. Open 9am–1pm overseas territories.
of grapes each year. An annual Mon–Sat (outdoor market closed Formerly the home of the
neighbourhood festival Mon), 9am–1:30pm Sun. Musée National des Arts
celebrates the wine. At the d’Afrique et d’Océanie (whose
top of the vineyard, Belleville On Sunday mornings, this lively collection was moved to the
has stunning panoramic views market offers one of the most Musée du quai Branly in 2003,
over Paris that compare to colourful sights in Paris. French, see pp194–5), the Palais de la
those from Montmartre. Arab and African traders hawk Porte Dorée now houses the
Near Père Lachaise, in the fruit, vegetables, flowers and Cité Nationale de l’Histoire de
apartment where she lived clothing on the streets, while the l’Immigration. This acts as both a
when she was 18, is the tiny adjoining covered market, the museum and a cultural centre,
Edith Piaf Museum, which Beauveau St-Antoine, offers fruit, with regular live performances
consists of two red-painted vegetables and many intriguing and films on the history of
rooms crammed with the international delicacies. immigration in France.
singer’s personal items, letters, Aligre is where old and new The magnificent 1930s
books and records. Don’t miss Paris meet. Here, the established Hall d’Honneur and the
the remarkable street art of community of this old artisan Salle des Fêtes (ballroom)
ever-changing colourful murals quarter coexists with a more are also open to the public.
on Rue Dénoyez. recently established group of hip In the basement, there is a
urban professionals, lured here magnificent tropical aquarium
by the transformation of the filled with colourful fish, as well
q Cimetière du nearby Bastille area (see p102). as several terrariums containing
Père Lachaise Some parts of the indoor tortoises and crocodiles.
market have been renovated
See pp242–3. following a fire in 2015.
w Canal St-Martin
r Musée de
Map 8 E2. q Jaurès, J Bonsergent,
Goncourt. See pp264–5. l’Histoire de
l’Immigration
The 5-km (3-mile) canal,
opened in 1825, provides a 293 Ave Daumesnil 75012. Tel 01 53
shortcut for river traffic between 59 58 60. q Porte Dorée. Open
loops of the Seine. It has long 10am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, 10am–7pm
been loved by novelists, film Sat, Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
directors and tourists alike. ^ & 8 7 restricted. =
It is dotted with barges and ∑ histoire-immigration.fr
pleasure boats that leave from
the Port de l’Arsenal. At the This museum and aquarium is
north end of the canal is the housed in a beautiful Art Deco
Bassin de la Villette waterway building that was designed
and the elegant Neo-Classical especially for the 1931 Colonial
Rotonde de la Villette, Exhibition. The impressive Exterior relief on the Musée de l’Histoire de
spectacularly floodlit at night. façade has a vast frieze by l’Immigration
236-237_EW_Paris.indd 237 03/04/17 10:57 am
238 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
9 Parc de la Villette The Folies
These red cubes
The old slaughterhouses and livestock market of punctuate the park
Paris have been transformed into this Bernard and provide a variety
Tschumi-designed urban park. Its vast facilities of services, such as a
café and a children’s
stretch across 55 ha (136 acres) of a previously workshop.
run-down part of the city. The plan was to revive
the tradition of parks for meetings and activities
and to stimulate interest in the arts and sciences.
Work began in 1984, and the park has grown to
include a science museum, a concert hall, an
exhibition pavilion, a spherical cinema, a circus
and a music centre. Linking them all is the
park itself, Paris’s third largest, with its folies,
walkways, gardens and playgrounds. In the
summer, the park holds an open-air film festival.
Children’s Playground
The maze-like setting, complete
with sand pits and colourful
play equipment, makes this
playground a paradise
for young children.
. Grande Halle Entrance
The old cattle hall has been transformed
into a flexible exhibition space with
mobile floors and auditorium.
. Cité de la Musique
This complex holds the music
conservatory, library, studios
and the Musée de la Musique,
housing over 4,500 objects.
238-239_EW_Paris.indd 238 03/04/17 10:57 am
FUR THER AFIELD 239
WIP Villette
regularly holds VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
shows and Practical Information
Entrance exhibitions. 211 Ave Jean Jaurès 75019.
Tel 01 40 03 75 75. Open Public
spaces: 24 hrs daily. Gardens:
May–Sep: 3–7pm Sat & Sun;
Oct–Mar: by reservation only.
Le Jardin des Vents et des Dunes:
. Cité des Sciences et 10am–8pm daily (Nov–Mar: only
de l’Industrie Wed, Sat & Sun, plus holidays and
This huge science school holidays). Info Desk:
museum boasts the latest 9:30am–6:30pm daily.
in futuristic equipment ∑ lavillette.com
and has dazzling hands- Philharmonie de Paris: Tel 01 44
on displays (see pp240–41). 84 44 84. Open noon–6pm
Tue–Sun (from 10am Sun).
Closed 1 May.
Transport
q Porte de Patin, Porte de la
Villette. @ 75, 139, 150, 152, 375.
v T3b.
. Zénith Theatre
This vast polyester tent was built as a venue for
pop concerts with a capacity to seat more than
6,000 spectators.
Philharmonie de Paris
This €390-million cultural centre encompasses many spaces
dedicated to music, including concert and exhibition halls and
rehearsal and educational rooms. Architect Jean Nouvel’s stunning
cutting-edge design for this symphonic concert hall features
L’Argonaute moving panels to redirect sound, sound-absorbing walls to
The exhibit consists of a increase acoustics, and 2,400 seats where the farthest spectator
1950s submarine and a is never more than 32 metres (105 feet) away from the conductor.
nearby navigation museum.
238-239_EW_Paris.indd 239 03/04/17 10:57 am
240 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie
This hugely popular science and technology museum occupies the
largest of the old Villette slaughterhouses, which now form part of
a massive urban park, Parc de la Villette. Architect Adrien Fainsilber
has created an imaginative interplay of light, vegetation and water
in the high-tech, five-storey building, which soars 40 m (133 ft)
high, stretching over 3 ha (7 acres). At the museum’s heart is the
Explora exhibit, a fascinating guide to the worlds of science and
technology. Visit ors can take part in computerized games on space,
the earth, transport, energy, design and sound. On other levels,
there is a children’s science city, a planetarium, a library and shops.
The Main Hall
With a soaring network of
shafts, bridges, escalators
and balconies, the vast
Main Hall has a cathedral-
. The Story of like atmosphere.
the Universe
An exploration of the
birth of the universe, this
exhibit takes you back
13.7 billion years to the
creation of the first atom.
400-seat Hemispheric
auditorium screen
Main lobby
La Géode
This vast sphere houses a hemispherical cinema
screen, 1,000 sq m (11,000 sq ft), showing IMAX
and 3D films. The Géode is prohibited for women
more than six-months pregnant.
KEY
1 The moat was designed by
Fainsilber so that natural light could
penetrate into the lower levels of
the building.
2 The Globalo-Scope is a 3D
projection on a globe, which shows
climate change and several other
phenomena on a global scale.
Planetarium
3 The greenhouse is a square Explore our solar system in
hothouse, 32 m (105 ft) high and immersive films and sessions
wide, linking the park to the building. with astronomy specialists.
240-241_EW_Paris.indd 240 25/04/16 4:20 pm
FUR THER AFIELD 241
Cupolas VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The two glazed
domes, 17 m (56 ft) Practical Information
in diameter, filter the 30 Ave Corentin-Cariou 75019.
flow of natural light Tel 01 40 05 70 00/80 00. Open
into the main hall.
10am–6pm Tue–Sat, 10am–7pm
Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
& 7 0 - = 9 Shows,
films, videos, library, conference
centre. ∑ cite-sciences.fr
Transport
q Porte de la Villette. @ 75,
139, 150, 152, 375, Tramway T3b.
h Quai de la Charente.
To La Géode
The Round About
Part of the Transport and
Mankind exhibition, this
interactive exhibit features
several screens that
illustrate many different
types of transport.
. Children’s City
Walkways In this lively, extensive area,
The walkways cross the encircling children can experiment and
moat to link the various floors of the play with machines that show
museum to the Géode and the park. how scientific principles work.
240-241_EW_Paris.indd 241 25/04/16 4:20 pm
242 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
q Cimetière du Père Lachaise
Paris’s most prestigious cemetery is set on a
wooded hill overlooking the city. The land
was once owned by Père de la Chaise, Louis
XIV’s confessor, but it was bought in 1803 by
order of Napoleon to create a new cemetery.
Père Lachaise, the first cemetery in France
with a crematorium, became so popular that
it was expanded six times during the century.
It now contains over 70,000 graves, including
those of the writer Honoré de Balzac, the The Columbarium was built at the end of the 19th
century. The American dancer Isadora Duncan is one
composer Frédéric Chopin, the singer Jim of the many celebrities whose ashes are housed here.
Morrison and the actor Yves Montand. These,
along with striking funerary sculpture, make
Père Lachaise a pleasant place for a stroll.
. Simone Signoret and AVE TRANSVERSALE
Yves Montand AVE AGUADO
France’s most famous post-war
cinema couple were renowned
for their left-wing views and AVE CIRCULAIRE AVE DES THUYAS AVE TRANSVERSALE NO.2
long turbulent relationship.
KEY AVE DES A NGLAIS
1 Marcel Proust brilliantly AVE TRANSVERSALE NO.1
chronicled the Belle Époque in his
novel Remembrance of Things Past.
2 Allan Kardec was the founder of
a 19th-century spiritual cult, which
still has a strong following. His tomb AVE CAIL AVE FEUILLANI AVE ST MORYS
is forever covered in pilgrims’ flowers.
3 Mur des Fédérés is the
wall against which the last AVE DE LA CHAPELLE
Communard rebels were shot by
government forces in 1871. It is
now a place of pilgrimage for
left-wing sympathizers. AVE DES PEUPLIERS
4 George Rodenbach, the
19th-century poet, is depicted as AVE CASIMIR PERIER
rising out of his tomb with a rose in AVE CIRCULAIRE
the hand of his outstretched arm.
5 Elizabeth Demidoff, a Russian AVE LAT SUD
princess who died in 1818, is AVE LAT DU NORD AVE PRINCIPALE
honoured by a three-storey Classical
temple by Quaglia.
6 The remains of Molière, the
great 17th-century actor and
dramatist, were transferred here
in 1817 to add historic glamour
to the new cemetery.
7 Frédéric Chopin, the great Polish Entrance
composer, belonged to the French
Romantic generation.
8 Monument aux Morts by
Paul Albert Bartholomé is one of Théodore Géricault
the best monumental sculptures The French Romantic
in the cemetery. It dominates painter’s masterpiece, The
the central avenue. Raft of the Medusa (see p124),
is depicted on his tomb.
242-243_EW_Paris.indd 242 03/04/17 10:57 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.8)
Date 23rd July 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
FUR THER AFIELD 243
. Oscar Wilde VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The Irish dramatist,
aesthete and great Practical Information
wit was cast away from 8 Blvd Ménilmontant. Tel 01 55
virtuous Britain to die 25 82 10. Open 8am–5:30pm
of drink and dissipation daily (from 8:30am Sat, 9am
in Paris in 1900. Jacob Sun; mid-Mar–early Nov:
Epstein sculpted the to 6pm). 8 n
monument.
Transport
q Père Lachaise, Alexandre
Dumas. @ 60, 61, 64, 69, 26 to
Pl Gambetta. h Pl Gambetta.
AVE CREFFULHE
. Edith Piaf
AVE CARETTE
Known as “the
little sparrow”
because of her
AVE AGUADO AVE TRANSVERSALE AVE PACTHOD size, Piaf was the
20th century’s
greatest French
her tragic voice,
AVE TRANSVERSALE NO.2 AVE CIRCULAIRE popular singer. In
she sang of the
AVE DES A NGLAIS sorrows and love
woes of the Paris
working class.
AVE TRANSVERSALE NO.1
AVE ST MORYS AVE DES ACACIAS
AVE DE LA CHAPELLE
Victor Noir
The life-size statue of this 19th-century journalist
shot by Pierre Bonaparte, a cousin of Napoleon III,
AVE CASIMIR PERIER is said to have fertility powers.
AVE PRINCIPALE AVE LAT SUD The great French tragedienne,
Sarah Bernhardt
who died in 1923 aged 78,
was famous for her portrayal
of Racine heroines.
François Raspail
The tomb of this much- . Jim Morrison
imprisoned partisan of the The death of The Doors’
1830 and 1840 revolutions lead singer in Paris in
is in the form of a prison. 1971 is still a mystery.
242-243_EW_Paris.indd 243 03/04/17 10:57 am
244 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
the most striking of all the
Grands Projets with which
President Mitterrand revitalized
this area. Four towers house
12,000,000 volumes, with
reference and research libraries
in the central podium.
Resources include 50,000
digitized illustrations, sound
archives and CD-ROMs.
Exhi bitions on its hidden
collections are often held.
u 13th
Bercy’s striking American Center, designed by Frank Gehry Arrondissement
t Bercy 70-ha (173-acre) Parc de Bercy Zac Paris Rive Gauche, 75013. Map 18
provides a welcome green space F5. q Bibliotheque F Mitterrand.
75012. Map 18 F3. q Bercy, Cour
St-Emilion. for this part of the city. The
park’s attractions for children Following a ten-year
This former wine-trading quarter include a traditional carousel. redevelopment project, the
east of the city centre, with its Former wine stores and cellars Zac Paris Rive Gauche, Paris’s
once-grim ware houses, pavilions along Cours St-Emilion have 13th arrondissement has
and slum housing, has been been restored as bars, become an area of startling
transformed into a modern restaurants and shops, and urban regeneration. The
district. An automatic Metro line one of the warehouses now once-disused area of land
(Line 14) links it to the heart of contains the Musée des Arts between Gare d’Austerlitz
the city. The centrepiece is the Forains (Fairground Museum), and Ivry-sur-Seine has now
AccorHotels Arena, now the city which is open only for private been revived to house a
centre’s principal stadium venue. tours. There is also a multiscreen university with some 30,000
The vast pyramidal structure cinema and numerous hotels. students. The area also boasts
has become a contemporary the MK2 Bibliothèque, a vast
landmark. Many sports events cinema complex with 14
are held here, as well as classical y Bibliothèque screens, cafés and exhibition
operas and rock concerts (see Nationale François areas. Connected to Bercy by
pp337 and 341–2). Mitterrand a bridge, the area also offers
Other architecturally new housing, schools and
adventurous buildings domi nate Quai François-Mauriac 75013. Map 18 business opportunities.
Bercy, notably Chemetov’s F4. Tel 01 53 79 59 59. q Biblio thèque
building for the Ministry of F Mitterrand, Quai de la Gare. Open
Finance, and Frank Gehry’s Reading rooms: 2–7pm Mon, 9am– i Parc Montsouris
American Center. This houses 7pm Tue–Sat. Exhibitions: 10am–7pm 2 Rue Gazan, Blvd Jourdan 75014. q
the Cinemathèque Française, Tue–Sat, 1–7pm Sun. Closed pub hols Porte d’Orléans. W Cité Universitaire,
a wonderful cinema museum & 2 wks Sep. & bring photo ID. 8 for Glaciere. Open 8am–5:30pm Mon–Fri,
that hosts frequent retro spec- groups by appt. 7 0 = ∑ bnf.fr 9am–dusk Sat–Sun; open 24 hrs in
tives on famous directors. summer. Times may vary. -
At the foot of these structures, Dominique Perrault’s 1996
the imaginatively designed land mark national library is Created in response to
Napoleon III’s desire for English-
style parks, Parc Montsouris
was laid out between 1865
and 1878 by the landscape
architect Adolphe Alphand
on the site of a former granite
quarry and cemetery.
Montsouris is one of the largest
parks in Paris. It has small hills,
clumps of trees, a large lake,
small bridges, grottoes, a
waterfall, numerous bronze
and stone sculptures and a
restaurant. The park draws a
Bibliothèque Nationale François Mitterrand number of migratory birds
244-245_EW_Paris.indd 244 03/04/17 10:50 am
FUR THER AFIELD 245
p Parc André
Citroën
Rue Balard 75015. Tel 01 56 56 11 56.
q Javel, Balard. Open 8am–dusk
Mon–Fri, 9am–dusk Sat, Sun &
public hols; open 24 hrs in summer.
7 8 reservation 01 40 71 75 60.
Opened in 1992, this park
(so-called because it occupies
the former site of a Citroên
manufacturing plant) offers the
city’s third large-scale vista on
the Seine, along with Les
Invalides and the Champ-de-
Relaxing by the lake in the Parc Montsouris Mars. Designed by both land-
scape gardeners and architects,
and is a great place for bird- university in Paris. Created in it was the largest park to have
watching. Children will enjoy the 1920s, it now contains 40 been opened in Paris for more
the playgrounds, pony rides, houses and, fascinatingly, each than a century. It is a blend of
carousel and Guignol puppet is in an architectural style styles, ranging from a
theatre. Students from the linked to different wild flower meadow in
nearby Cité Universitaire come countries. The Swiss the north to the
here to jog, relax or listen to House and the sophis ticated
concerts on the expansive Franco-Brazilian mono chrome
lawns. The renowned House were mineral and
Montsouris weather station, designed by the sculpture gardens
the oldest continual weather Modernist of the southern
observation post in Paris, is architect Le section. Water
also located in the park. Corbusier. The sculp tures dot the
International park, and glasshouses
House, donated by nurture a range of
o Cité Universitaire John D Rockefeller environ ments. Between
in 1936, has a the two green-house
17–21 Blvd Jourdan 75014. Tel 01 44 library, restaurant,
16 64 00. q Porte d’Orléans. W Cité pavilions are dancing
Universitaire. ∑ ciup.fr swimming pool and Hot-air balloon, Parc fountains; floating
theatre. The student André Citroën above is a tethered
This is an international city in community makes hot-air balloon from
miniature for more than 5,000 this a lively and stimulating which visitors can enjoy great
foreign students attending area of the city to visit. views of the city.
International House at the Cité Universitaire
244-245_EW_Paris.indd 245 03/04/17 10:50 am
246 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
The high-rise buildings of the Front de Seine neighbourhood
a Front de Seine lower floors, and street-level the Castel Béranger, a stunning
(Beaugrenelle) shops and hotels. In order apartment block made from
to create a complete neigh- cheap building materials to keep
Bordering the Seine at Quai André bourhood, the Front de Seine costs low, yet featuring stained
Citroën, Quai Grenelle, between Rue also includes a large super- glass, convoluted ironwork,
de Javel & Rue Emeriau & Place de market, a gym, a bowling alley, balconies and mosaics. It
Brazzaville 75015. q Charles Michel. a park and even a laser-tag established the reputation of
Beaugrenelle shopping and leisure
complex: 12 Rue Linois. Tel 01 53 95 venue. The latest addition to Art Nouveau architect Hector
24 00. Open 10am–9pm daily (to 8pm the mix is the Beaugrenelle Guimard, who went on to design
Sun). ∑ beaugrenelle-paris.com shopping and leisure complex, the entrances for the Paris
with more than 120 shops, Metro. Several more examples
A few blocks southwest of the numerous restaurants, a of his work can be seen further
Eiffel Tower, along the Seine, swimming pool, a post office, along the street, such as the
in the 15th arrondissement, is a large multiplex cinema and Hôtel Mezzara at No. 60.
the Front de Seine, also known a rooftop garden.
as Beaugrenelle. An innovative
urban planning project started d Fondation Le
in the1970s, this is one of the Corbusier
few areas within the city
featuring high-rise towers – 10 Square du Docteur Blanche 75016.
most such buildings have Tel 01 42 88 75 72. q Jasmin. Open
been erected outside Paris. Villa La Roche only: 1:30–6pm Mon,
The urban design of the Front 10am–6pm Tue–Sat. Library open by
de Seine was ambitious and appt, 1:30–6pm Mon–Thu, to 5pm Fri,
Tel 01 42 88 41 53. Closed public hols,
creative, and it developed 1 week in Aug, 24 Dec–2 Jan. &
with a vision of the future in Films. 8 Tue at 2pm & 3pm; prebook
mind. Today it is a young, via reservation@fondationlecorbusier.
fashionable neighbourhood. fr = See History of Paris pp40–41.
Twenty towers surround a ∑ fondationlecorbusier.asso.fr
connected esplanade that is
painted with murals which can An Art Nouveau window in the In a quiet corner of Auteuil are
be seen only from the towers Rue la Fontaine the villas La Roche (see p269) and
themselves. Different from Jeanneret, the first two Parisian
other high-rises, which are s Rue la Fontaine houses designed by the architect
purely residential, and from 75016. Map 9 A4. q Jasmin, Michel- Charles-Edouard Jeanneret,
those at La Défense, which are Ange Auteuil. known as Le Corbusier. Built
predominantly commercial, in the 1920s, they show his
Beaugrenelle’s buildings The Rue la Fontaine and revolutionary use of white
combine “living, working and surrounding streets act as a con crete in Cubist forms. Rooms
leisure”, as its motto describes. showcase for some of the most flow into each other allowing
There are apartments on the exciting architecture of the early maxi mum light, and the houses
upper floors, businesses on the 20th century. At No. 14 stands stand on stilts with windows
246-247_EW_Paris.indd 246 03/04/17 10:57 am
FUR THER AFIELD 247
along their entire length. Villa
La Roche was owned by the art
patron Raoul La Roche and today
serves as a documentation
centre on Le Corbusier. Villa
Jeanneret houses a library and
archives and is open only to
researchers and students
by prior appointment.
f Musée
Marmottan-Monet
2 Rue Louis Boilly 75016. Tel 01 44 96
50 33. q Muette. Open 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun (to 9pm Thu). Closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 25 Dec. & 7 =
∑ marmottan.fr
Villa La Roche, home of the Fondation Le Corbusier
The museum was created in
1934 in the 19th-century Beyond the plus opportunities for horse
mansion of the art historian Périphérique riding, picnicking or a day at the
Paul Marmottan. In 1932, he races. The Bois de Boulogne is
bequeathed his house and his all that remains of the royal
Renaissance, Consular and First g Bois de Boulogne hunting grounds of the Forêt du
Empire collections of paintings Rouvre. In the mid-19th century,
and furniture to the Institut de 75016. q Porte Maillot, Porte Dau- Napoleon III had it redesigned
France. The focus of the phine, Porte d’Auteuil, Sablons. Open and landscaped by Haussmann
museum changed after the 24 hrs daily. & to specialist gardens along the lines of London’s
bequest by Michel Monet of & museum. 7 Shakespeare garden: Hyde Park and Regent’s Park.
65 paintings by his father, the Open 9:30am–dusk daily. 8 Open-air The many beautiful areas
Impressionist Claude Monet. theatre: Open May–Sep. Bagatelle & within and around the Bois
Rose gardens: Open 9:30am. Closing
Some of his most famous times 4:30pm to 8pm according to include the famous Hippodrome
paintings are here, including season. Jardin d’Acclimatation: Tel 01 de Longchamp racecourse, the
Impression – Sunrise, a beautiful 40 67 90 82. Open 10am–7pm Mon– Jardin d’Acclimatation amuse-
canvas from the Rouen Fri, 10am 8pm Sat & Sun. - 0 & ment park, with traditional rides
Cathedral series, and several Fondation Louis Vuitton: 8 Ave du and a puppet theatre, and Roland
Water Lilies. Mahatma Gandhi 75116. Tel 01 40 69 Garros, home to the French
Part of Monet’s personal art 96 00. q Sablons. Open 10am–8pm Tennis Open championships. The
collection also passed to the daily (to 11pm Fri). & 7 0 Pré Catelan is a self-contained
museum, including paintings ∑ fondationlouisvuitton.fr park with the widest beech tree
by Camille Pissarro and the in Paris. Hidden within its borders
Impressionists Pierre Auguste Between the western edges of is the Théâtre de Verdure, an
Renoir and Alfred Sisley. The Paris and the Seine, this 865-ha open-air play-house that puts
museum also displays medieval (2,137-acre) park offers greenery on Shakespeare, dance and
illuminated manuscripts. for strolling and a boating lake, musical performances in
summer. The charming Bagatelle
Gardens feature architectural
follies and an 18th-century
orangery famous for its rose
garden, where an international
rose competition takes place in
June. The orangery was built in
64 days as a bet between the
Comte d’Artois and Marie-
Antoinette. Opened in 2014,
Frank Gehry’s stunning Fondation
Louis Vuitton is a cultural centre
dedicated to modern art.
The Bois de Boulogne’s reput-
ation as a seedy area at night is
somewhat exaggerated, never-
theless it is as well to exercise
The orangery, Bagatelle Gardens in the Bois de Boulogne common sense after dark.
246-247_EW_Paris.indd 247 03/04/17 10:57 am
248 P ARIS AREA B Y AREA
h Musée des
Années 30
28 Ave André Morizet, Boulogne-
Billancourt 92100. Tel 01 55 18 53 00/
01 55 18 46 42. q Marcel Sembat.
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. 7 &
8 - = ∑ annees30.com
Inaugurated in 1998, this
museum of the 1930s forms
part of an arts complex, the
Espace Landowski, named
after Paul Landowski, a sculptor
who lived in Boulogne- The vast Grande Arche in La Défense
Billancourt from 1905 until
his death in 1961, and his Napoleon and his entourage of the squares into fascinating
musician brother, Marcel. would come here to relax. The open-air museums.
Several of Paul’s works are château became Josephine’s In 1989, one of Paris’s most
on show here among the main residence after their striking landmarks La Grande
collection of some 800 divorce. Today, it is an important Arche was added to the
sculptures, 2,000 paintings, Napoleonic museum, together complex – an enormous hollow
furniture and ceramics. with the nearby Château de cube large enough to contain
The museum gives a vivid Bois-Préau. Furniture, portraits, Notre-Dame cathedral. This was
impression of the aesthetic artifacts and mementos of the designed by Danish architect
mood of the era and its imperial family are displayed Otto von Spreckelsen as part of
decorative arts through the in rooms reconstructed in the major construction works, or
work of artists such as Juan style of the First Empire. Grands Travaux, which were
Gris and Robert Mallet-Stevens, Part of the original grounds initiated by (and are now a
classics of industrial design, still exist, including Joseph ine’s memorial to) the late President
and film-makers such as famous pretty rose garden. François Mitterrand. The sides of
Renoir and Pagnol. The the cube contain offices. The
museum organizes temporary arch is closed to the public.
exhibitions, as well as themed l La Défense
tours of the architectural 1 Parvis de la Défense. q W La z Marché aux
and industrial heritage of Défense. La Grande Arche: Closed to
Boulogne-Billancourt. Puces de St-Ouen
the public. n See History of Paris
pp42–3. ∑ grandearche.com Rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen 75018.
j Versailles This skyscraper business district Map 2 F2. q Porte-de-Clignan court,
Garibaldi. Open 9am–6pm Sat,
on the western edge of Paris is
See pp250–55. 10am–6pm Sun, 11am–5pm Mon;
one of Europe’s largest modern reduced hours during summer.
office develop ments and 8 call 01 40 11 77 36. See Markets
covers 80 ha (198 acres). It was p331. ∑ marcheaux puces-
k Château de launched in 1958 to create a saintouen.com
Malmaison new home for leading French
and multinational companies. This is the oldest, most
Ave du Château de Malmaison 92500 Since then, a major artistic expensive and largest of the
Rueil-Malmaison. Tel 01 41 29 05 55. scheme has transformed many Paris flea markets, covering
W La Défense then bus 258. Open
Apr–Sep: 10am–12:30pm, 1:30–
5:45pm Wed–Mon (6:15pm Sat, Sun);
Oct–Mar: 10am–12:30pm, 1:30–
5:15pm Wed–Mon (5:45pm Sat, Sun).
Park: 10am–6:30pm daily (Oct–Mar:
to 6pm). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
& = See History of Paris pp34–5.
∑ chateau-malmaison.fr
This 17th-century château was
bought in 1799 by Josephine de
Beauharnais, wife of Napoleon I.
A magnificent veranda, Classical
statues and a small theatre were
added. After his campaigns, First Empire decor at the Château de Malmaison
248-249_EW_Paris.indd 248 03/04/17 10:57 am
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and
comprehensive maps for exploring this iconic city.
Admire Old Masters at the Louvre, enjoy the view from the Eiffel Tower or take a trip to Versailles: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of Paris
with this indispensable travel guide.
Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Paris:
- Over 40 colour maps, plus a large-scale pull-out map of the city and a map of the metro and regional
express railway, help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Paris, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of the Musée d'Orsay, Notre-Dame, the Panthéon and more
- Colour photographs of Paris's historic sights, museums, churches, parks and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis; the Marais; Beaubourg and Les
Halles; Tuileries Quarter; St-Germain-des-Prés; the Latin Quarter; the Jardin des Plantes Quarter; the
Luxembourg Quarter; Montparnasse; Invalides and the Eiffel Tower Quarter; the Chaillot Quarter; Champs-
Elysées; the Opéra Quarter; Montmartre; and beyond
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the city's history, famous Parisians, remarkable architecture, festivals, and world-class museums and galleries
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases,
visa and health information
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Paris is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from
your visit to Paris.
DK Eyewitness: winner of the Top Guidebook Series in the Wanderlust Reader Travel Awards 2017.
"No other guide whets your appetite quite like this one" - The Independent
Planning a shorter break? Try our DK Eyewitness Top 10 Paris guide.
About DK Eyewitness Travel: DK's highly visual Eyewitness guides show you what others only tell you, with
easy-to-read maps, tips, and tours to inform and enrich your holiday. DK is the world's leading illustrated
reference publisher, producing beautifully designed books for adults and children in over 120 countries.
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