(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Paris

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  299

Le Lamarck €€
Corsican Map 7 A1
8 Rue Lamarck, 75018
Tel 01 53 41 01 60 Closed Sun–Tue
Owner François Grimaldi plays
guitar and sings while diners
enjoy his tasty traditional dishes.
A restaurant full of real warmth
and charm.
Le Miroir €€
Traditional French Map 6 F3
94 Rue des Martyrs, 75018
Tel 01 46 06 50 73 Closed Sun & Mon
Bistro-style comfort food is
served here, cooked by an haute
cuisine-trained trio of chefs. This
airy restaurant with a cosy wine
bar, red banquettes and large
mirrors is a magnet for locals.
The elegant interior of Qui Plume La Lune
Le Nansouty €€
Café Marly €€ La Famille €€ Traditional French Map 7 A1
Traditional French Map 12 E2 Modern French Map 6 F1 35 Rue Ramey, 75018
93 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 41 Rue des Trois Frères, 75018 Tel 01 42 52 58 87 Closed lunch Sat
Tel 01 49 26 06 60 Tel 01 42 52 11 12 Closed Mon & Mon
This elegant café is set in an & Sun; Aug This cosy restaurant-bar, off the
arcaded terrace overlooking the Chef Iñaki Aizpitarte first drew beaten track in Montmartre,
glass pyramid of the Louvre. The attention to this hotspot. He serves traditional, hearty French
menu offers a range of French has gone, but his fusion menu fare. There is an excellent wine list.
and international dishes. Prices remains, as do the fashionistas.
tend to reflect the location, but Les Noces de Jeannette €€
you can always just have a drink. Fauchon Le Café €€ Traditional French Map 6 F5
Traditional French Map 5 C5 Corner of Rue Favart & Rue
Chez Georges €€ 24–30 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 d’Amboise, 75002
Traditional French Map 12 F1 Tel 01 70 39 38 39 Closed Sun Tel 01 42 96 36 89
1 Rue du Mail, 75002 Part of an upmarket delicatessen, Named after an opera by Victor
Tel 01 42 60 07 11 Closed Sat & Sun this eatery serves food that is as Massé, this restaurant has two
A vintage treasure, beloved of US elegant as the surroundings. For intimate rooms, superbly
cookery writer Julia Child. The lower prices, try La Cantine, the decorated with opera and
traditional bistro fare is sublime, informal basement eatery. cinema posters. It serves
and includes steak au poivre. excellent brasserie-style cuisine.
Les Fines Gueules €€
Chez Toinette €€ Traditional French Map 12 F1 Le Pantruche €€
Traditional French Map 6 E1 43 Rue Croix des Petits Champs, 75001 Modern French Map 6 E2
20 Rue Germain Pilon, 75018 Tel 01 42 61 35 41 3 Rue Victor Massé, 75009
Tel 01 42 54 44 36 Closed Mon Part wine bar, part bistro, this Tel 01 48 78 55 60 Closed Sat & Sun;
& Sun; Aug spot is renowned for its platters 3 wks Aug
Behind an unprepossessing of excellent charcuterie, and for Chef Franck Baranger wows the
façade, this small restaurant its steak tartare with sautéed crowds with seasonal specialities
bursts with charm. Among the potatoes. There is also a large such as celery root soup at this
best dishes are the delicious duck wine list. retro-chic 1930s bistro. The fixed-
foie gras, roast pigeon (in winter), price menu offers great value.
snails, lamb shank and sea bass. Le Grand 8 €€
Traditional French Map 7 A1 DK Choice
DK Choice 8 Rue Lamarck, 75018 Racines €€
Tel 01 42 55 04 55 Closed Mon & Tue
La Cordonnerie €€ A tiny restaurant with a touch of Bistro/Wine bar Map 6 F5
Traditional French Map 12 E1 class, often frequented by locals. 8 Passage des Panoramas, 75002
20 Rue St-Roch, 75001 The perfect beef, lamb and Tel 01 40 13 06 41 Closed Sat &
Tel 01 42 60 17 42 vegetable risottos are a highlight, Sun; 3 wks Aug
For a typical French bistro not to mention the terrific Its setting in a gorgeous 19th-
experience, try this friendly caramelized apple millefeuille. century shopping arcade makes
eatery decorated with shiny this charming bistrot à vins a
copper pans and a grandfather Guilo Guilo €€ favourite with shoppers and
clock. The owner/chef, who was Asian Map 6 E1 locals alike. The short menu
taught to cook by his father, 8 Rue Garreau, 75018 features French and Italian
uses market-fresh produce, Tel 01 42 54 23 92 Closed Mon & Sun dishes, excellent charcuterie,
prepared in an open kitchen, Palate-popping “New Wave” ratatouille, lamb and pork, and
and discusses the menu with Japanese cuisine. Watching chef seductive desserts. Serious
every customer. An experience Eichi Edakuni at work in his open wines, many from bio dynamic
not to be missed. kitchen is not unlike witnessing a producers, are a bonus.
theatrical performance.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 288–91
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300  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Le Grand Véfour €€€
Modern French Fine Dining
Map 12 F1
17 Rue de Beaujolais, 75001
Tel 01 42 96 56 27 Closed Sat & Sun;
Aug
Savour celebrated chef
Guy Martin’s astonishing cuisine
in an 18th-century jewel-like
restaurant next to the Palais-
Royal gardens. A former haunt
of many famous artists, writers
and politicians, including
Napoleon.
DK Choice
Kei €€€
Modern French Map 12 F1
5 Rue Coq Héron, 75001
Tel 01 42 33 14 74 Closed Mon
The opulent Philip Starck-designed dining room at Le Meurice & Sun, Thu lunch
Fusing French and Japanese
Rouge Bis €€ Caviar Kaspia €€€ cuisines, Kei Kobayashi is at the
Traditional French Map 6 E1 Russian Map 5 C5 helm of this sophisticated
7 Place Blanche, 75009 17 Place de la Madeleine, restaurant. Decorated in
Tel 01 40 16 45 36 75008 elegant silver and grey, Kei is a
Exceptionally personable staff Tel 01 42 65 33 32 Closed Sun showcase for imaginative and
make this restaurant-bar across Enjoy traditional dishes from delicious dishes that skillfully
from the Moulin Rouge a top Russia, including caviar and balance flavours and textures.
spot for locals and theatre-goers. smoked salmon, accompanied A top sommelier advises on the
The classic dishes served in by the obligatory chilled vodka, best wines to pair with the food.
generous portions are delicious in plush surroundings with
and good value. honey-coloured panelling, heavy
curtains and marvellous views. Le Meurice €€€
Le Vaudeville €€ Popular with the arty crowd. Modern French Fine Dining
Traditional French Map 6 F5 Map 12 D1
29 Rue Vivienne, 75002 Le Chamarré 228 Rue de Rivoli, 75001
Tel 01 40 20 04 62 de Montmartre €€€ Tel 01 44 58 10 55 Closed Sat & Sun
A boisterous, marble-clad French–Mauritian Enjoy Alain Ducasse’s elegant
brasserie with a delightful Art fusion Map 2 F5 and sophisticated cuisine at this
Deco interior. You can’t go wrong 52 Rue Lamarck, 75018 two-Michelin-starred restaurant
by ordering the seafood platter Tel 01 42 55 05 42 in Philippe Starck’s reimagining
or smoked salmon. Sit outside on The creative fare from Mauritian of a Versailles salon. Service is
the terrace in summer and watch chef Antoine Heerah includes formal, but not stiff. Menus
the world go by. Seychelles-style sea bass at this change seasonally.
elegant restaurant serving
Café de la Paix €€€ traditional cuisine with exotic Verjus €€€
Traditional French Map 6 D4 touches. The airy dining room American Map 12 E1
InterContinental Paris Le Grand, has striped furnish ings and a 52 Rue de Richelieu, 75001
5 Place de l’Opéra, 75009 flower-filled terrace. Tel 01 42 97 54 40 Closed Sat & Sun
Tel 01 40 07 36 36 Intensely flavoured, tapas-style
This grand old café, once dishes are served in this casual,
frequented by the likes of Zola, white-walled dining room. Less
Maupassant and Tchaikovsky, expensive fare is available in the
boasts a beautiful frescoed cellar wine bar and sandwich bar.
interior and a lovely terrasse
fronting the Opéra Garnier.
Although it’s not cheap, it’s
well worth it. Champs-Elysées and
Chaillot Quarter
Carré des Feuillants €€€
French Fine Dining Map 12 D1 Korean Barbecue
14 Rue de Castiglione, 75001 Champs-Elysées €
Tel 01 42 86 82 82 Closed Sun Korean Map 5 A5
Legendary chef Alain Dutournier 7 Rue de Ponthieu, 75008
prepares exquisite dishes from Tel 01 42 25 35 41 Closed Sun;
his native Gascony with sheer 3 wks Aug
genius at this elegant, friendly Paper-thin beef from the
restaurant hung with modern barbecue, so tender it melts in
art. Accompany them with a your mouth, and crisp vegetables
wine from an extensive and The enchanting Louis XVI decor at the are among the highlights at this
interesting list. historic Le Grand Véfour friendly, family-run restaurant.
For key to prices see page 296
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  301

€€
DK Choice Le Mini Palais Map 11 A1 DK Choice
Modern French
Café Lenôtre €€ Grand Palais, 3 Avenue Winston Antoine €€€
Modern French Map 5 B5 Churchill, 75008 Seafood Map 10 E1
Le Pavillon Elysée Lenôtre, Tel 01 42 56 42 42 10 Avenue de New York, 75116
10 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, A gastronomic treat in an Tel 01 40 70 19 28 Closed 3 wks
75008 elegant, fashionable setting with Aug
Tel 01 42 65 85 10 Closed Nov– a lovely colonnaded terrace. Enjoy sensational seafood while
Mar: Sun & Mon admiring the view at this
An elegant pavilion built for the DK Choice riverside restaurant – you can
1900 Exposition Universelle is see across the Seine to the Eiffel
now occupied by an outpost of Relais de l’Entrecôte €€ Tower. Chef Antoine Vigneron’s
the Lenôtre catering com pany. Steakhouse Map 4 F5 cuisine centres on produce
The decor is smart and modern, 15 Rue Marbeuf, 75008 imported from the Basque
complementing the creative, Tel 01 49 52 07 17 country, the Mediterranean,
contemporary food; the Established in 1959, this family- Brittany and even Norway. Try
desserts, in particular, are show- run restaurant offers a warm the bouillabaisse or the sea bass,
stealers. In summer, diners can atmosphere and fantastic grilled on fennel wood and
enjoy lunch on the terrace. The steaks. Once you get in – the served with steamed vegetables.
food is reason ably priced and queues can be long – your
the staff are very attentive. hardest decision will be how
to have your steak cooked. Apicius €€€
The high-quality beef is cut Modern French Fine Dining
Chez Diep €€ thin, the frites are done to Map 4 F4
Asian Map 5 A5 perfection and the secret- 20 Rue d’Artois, 75008
22 Rue de Ponthieu, 75008 recipe sauce is some thing to Tel 01 43 80 19 66 Closed Sat & Sun
Tel 01 42 56 23 96 Closed Sun write home about. A great Jean-Pierre Vigato produces
Appetizing specialities from place for a family outing. culinary fireworks in this 18th-
China, Thailand and Vietnam century mansion set in glorious
pepper the menu at this modest gardens. Book ahead – and bring
restaurant with decor that Le Timgad €€ a plump wallet.
evokes Thailand. Attentive Moroccan Map 3 C3
service. 21 Rue Brunel, 75017 L’Astrance €€€
Tel 01 45 74 23 70 Modern French Fine Dining
Chez Géraud €€ Parisians flock to Le Timgad to Map 9 C3
Traditional French Map 9 B3 enjoy terrific Moroccan food in an 4 Rue Beethoven, 75016
31 Rue Vital, 75016 ornate setting. Briks (thin pastry Tel 01 40 50 84 40 Closed Mon,
Tel 01 45 20 33 00 Closed Sat & Sun with a deep-fried filling), tagines Sat & Sun
An enduring neighbourhood and couscous are imaginatively Book months in advance to
fixture, where dishes made from spiced and impeccably cooked. secure a table at this celebrated
fresh produce are served in an three-Michelin-starred 26-seater,
appealing, traditional setting. 6 New York €€€ and sample Pascal Barbot’s
Modern French Map 10 E1 inspired tasting menu.
Graindorge €€ 6 Avenue de New York,
Belgian Map 4 D3 75016 Le Cinq €€€
15 Rue de l’Arc de Triomphe, 75017 Tel 01 40 70 03 30 Closed Sun Modern French Fine Dining
Tel 01 47 54 00 28 Closed Sun Enjoy fabulous dishes such as Map 4 E5
A splendid selection of beers grilled swordfish with chorizo, Four Seasons George V, 31 Avenue
on tap accompanies Belgian green apple and aubergine caviar George V, 75008
national treasures such as at this modern, welcoming Tel 01 49 52 71 54
waterzooi de homard (lobster restaurant. The food is prepared Hotel dining at its sublime best.
broth) and potjevleesch by talented chef Jérôme Chef Eric Briffard produces
(meat terrine). Gangneux with ingredients original cuisine in a sumptuous
fresh from the market. grey-and-gold dining room.
Le Hide €€
Traditional French Map 4 D3
10 Rue du Général Lanrezac,
75017
Tel 01 45 74 15 81 Closed lunch &
Sun; 1 wk May, 2nd wk Aug
Japanese chef Hide Kobayashi
prepares generous, no-nonsense
bistro food. Good-value fixed-
price menu.
L’Huîtrier €€
Seafood Map 4 E2
16 Rue Saussier-Leroy, 75017
Tel 01 40 54 83 44
Oysters – ordered by the dozen
or half-dozen – are the
undisputed stars of the show
at this modern restaurant. The bar at Carré des Feuillants, a temple of haute cuisine
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 288–91
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302  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Copenhague €€€ Prunier €€€ Pasco €
Danish Map 4 E4 Seafood Map 4 D4 Mediterranean Map 11 A3
142 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 16 Avenue Victor Hugo, 75116 74 Blvd de la Tour Maubourg, 75007
75008 Tel 01 44 17 35 85 Closed Sun; Aug Tel 01 44 18 33 26
Tel 01 44 13 86 26 Closed 3 wks Aug This pretty Art Deco jewel has a You will find dishes with simple,
If you crave a change from seasonal menu, along with an seasonal ingredients – such as
French cooking, this restaurant impressive variety of caviars. fish, fresh vegetables, herbs, spices
could be ideal. Fish is the star and lashings of olive oil – at this
attraction here, along with the Relais Plaza €€€ contemporary, rustic restaurant.
spectacular views over the Modern French Map 10 F1
Champs-Elysées. Le Plaza Athenée, 21 Avenue L’Affable €€
Montaigne, 75008 Modern French Map 11 C3
L’Epicure €€€ Tel 01 53 67 64 00 10 Rue de St-Simon, 75007
Traditional French Fine Dining This fashionable brasserie with Tel 01 42 22 01 60 Closed Sat & Sun;
Map 5 B4 Art Deco touches is to see and Aug
Le Bristol, 112 Rue du Faubourg be seen in. The imaginative menu This bistro has an excel lent prix-
St-Honoré, 75008 is inspired by Alain Ducasse. fixe lunch and attentive waiters.
Tel 01 53 43 43 40 On the menu are hearty classics
A lovely room, with windows Taillevent €€€ such as ris de veau (sweetbreads).
overlooking the garden, is the Traditional French Fine Dining
ideal backdrop to Eric Fréchon’s Map 4 F4 L’Affriolé €€
triple-Michelin-starred cooking 15 Rue Lamennais, 75008 Traditional French Map 10 F2
at this restaurant. Tel 01 44 95 15 01 Closed Sat & Sun; 17 Rue Malar, 75007
Aug; public hols Tel 01 44 18 31 33 Closed Sun
Hiramatsu €€€ Exquisite haute cuisine in a 19th- & Mon; Aug
Modern French Fine Dining century mansion. Alain Solivérès’s A local fixture, this colourful bistro
Map 9 C1 incomparable cooking is paired is usually packed. Dishes such as
52 Rue de Longchamp, 75116 with a remarkable wine list. caramelized lamb sweetbreads
Tel 01 56 81 08 80 Closed Sat & Sun with aubergine caviar and
Hiroyuki Hiramatsu’s cooking is mustard are cooked with finesse.
a flawless blend of French and
Japanese styles. Splash out on Invalides and Eiffel L’Ami Jean €€
the wonderful nine-course Tower Quarter Basque Map 10 F2
tasting menu. 27 Rue Malar, 75007
Café Constant € Tel 01 47 05 86 89 Closed Sun
Lasserre €€€ Traditional French Map 10 E3 & Mon; Aug
Traditional French Fine Dining 139 Rue St-Dominique, 75007 Stéphane Jego puts an avant-
Map 11 A1 Tel 01 47 53 73 34 garde spin on Basque cooking,
17 Avenue Franklin D Roosevelt, Arrive early to be sure of a table at with dishes such as lamb sweet-
75008 Christian Constant’s no-frills café. breads with paper-thin chorizo,
Tel 01 43 59 02 13 Closed Sun Brilliantly conceived comfort food, at this lively eatery. Book ahead.
& Mon; 3 wks Aug such as beef stew, is on the menu.
The lavish orchid-filled interior La Billebaude €€
is a fitting background for Coutume € Burgundian Map 10 F3
Christophe Moret’s refined Modern French Map 11 B4 29 Rue Exposition, 75007
cooking. A retractable roof 47 Rue de Babylone, 75007 Tel 01 45 55 20 96 Closed Sun
opens to the stars. Great Tel 01 45 51 50 47 Closed 2 wks Aug & Mon; Aug
selection of desserts. This bright and airy café serves Melt-in-the-mouth scallops, sea
superb coffee and healthy bream with sorrel sauce, wild
Paul Chêne €€€ sandwiches, as well as salads boar stew and foie gras are just
Traditional French Fine Dining for lunch. A good brunch option. some of this cheerful restaurant’s
Map 9 C1 standard regional dishes.
123 Rue Lauriston, 75116
Tel 01 47 27 63 17 Closed Sat lunch; Au Bon Accueil €€
Sun Modern French Map 10 E2
Step back in time at this 14 Rue de Monttessuy, 75007
classic restaurant, founded Tel 01 47 05 46 11 Closed Sat & Sun;
in 1959 by Paul Chêne, linchpin 3 wks Aug
of traditional cuisine, and little The good-value prix-fixe menus
changed since. There is a wide at this upmarket bistro never
choice of superb desserts. skimp on quality ingredients.
Sit at the pavement tables for
Pierre Gagnaire €€€ a great view of the Eiffel Tower.
Modern French Fine Dining
Map 4 E4 Les Cocottes de Christian
6 Rue Balzac, 75008 Constant €€
Tel 01 58 36 12 50 Closed Sat & Sun; Modern French Map 10 E3
Aug, Christmas holidays 135 Rue St-Dominique, 75007
Pierre Gagnaire, an advocate Tel 01 45 50 10 31
of molecular gastronomy, The clue is in the name – cocottes
provides groundbreaking (dishes served in cast-iron
cuisine at this three-Michelin- The rustic and cosy interior of L’Ami Jean, casseroles) are the speciality
starred restaurant. a Basque bistro here. Service is very efficient.
For key to prices see page 296
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  303

Chez Gladines €
Basque Map 17 B5
30 Rue des Cinq Diamants, 75013
Tel 01 45 80 70 10
A haven of satisfying, no-frills
cooking. The house speciality –
gigantic salads, served in
earthenware bowls and
smothered with sautéed
potatoes – is not to be missed.
Shakespeare & Co Café €
International Map 13 A4
37 Rue de la Bucherie, 75005
Tel 01 43 25 95 95
Next door to, and owned by, the
legendary bookshop, this café
continues the literary theme,
The view from Le Jules Verne, on the second level of the Eiffel Tower with second-hand novels and
cookbooks on the shelves.
Le Florimond €€ L’Arpège €€€ Come for a bagel or sandwich,
Traditional French Map 10 F3 Traditional French Fine Dining and enjoy unbeatable views of
19 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, 75007 Map 11 B3 Notre-Dame from the terrasse.
Tel 01 45 55 40 38 Closed Sun & first 84 Rue de Varenne, 75007
Sat of the month; 1 wk Aug Tel 01 47 05 09 06 Closed Sat & Sun L’Agrume €€
Pascal Guillaumin’s authentic Alain Passard grows his own Modern French Map 17 C2
menu includes his grandmother’s produce for this glossy three- 15 Rue des Fossés St-Marcel,
recipe for stuffed cabbage, and Michelin-starred restaurant. Try 75005
delectable lobster ravioli, plus his superb signature apple tart. Tel 01 43 31 86 48 Closed Sun,
vanilla millefeuille. Mon & Tue; Aug; 2 wks Dec
David Toutain €€€ Foodies roll up here to sample
La Fontaine de Mars €€ Modern French Map 11 A2 the five-course tasting menu.
Southwestern French Map 10 F3 29 Rue Surcouf, 75007 The presentation is simple,
129 Rue St-Dominique, 75007 Tel 01 45 50 11 10 Closed Sat & Sun but the flavours are fabulous.
Tel 01 47 05 46 44 Toutain has worked with some of
The archetypal bistro: lace Paris’s best chefs, and his Michelin Alcazar €€
curtains, gingham tablecloths, star proves that he has kept the Modern French Map 12 F4
efficient waiters and fantastic food. bar high. Tasting menus include 62 Rue Mazarine, 75006
Duck cassoulet is the signature signature dishes like his salsify Tel 01 53 10 19 99 Closed Aug
dish when in season (Sep–May). dipped in white chocolate. British style-guru Terence Conran’s
contemporary take on a Parisian
Au Petit Sud Ouest €€ Le Jules Verne €€€ brasserie. Seafood, Mediterranean
Southwestern French Map 10 E3 Modern French Fine Dining cuisine and English-inspired
46 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, 75007 Map 10 D3 dishes are on the menu.
Tel 01 45 55 59 59 Closed Sun 5 Avenue Gustave Eiffel, 75007
& Mon; Aug Tel 01 45 55 61 44 Anahuacalli €€
Enjoy authentic specialities from Alain Ducasse’s restaurant on the Mexican Map 13 B5
the Landes, many of them duck- Eiffel Tower’s second platform 30 Rue des Bernardins, 75005
based, at this friendly restaurant. has breathtaking 360-degree Tel 01 43 26 10 20
Individual toasters ensure piping- views and stylish cuisine. A cheerful cantina serving typical
hot bread for the foie gras. Mexican dishes – guacamole,
corn tortillas and queso (melted
Le Troquet €€ cheese) with chorizo.
Basque Map 10 F5 St-Germain, Latin
21 Rue François Bonvin, 75015 Quarter and Jardin L’Atlas €€
Tel 01 45 66 89 00 Closed Sun & Mon; des Plantes Quarter Moroccan Map 13 B5
Aug; 1 wk Christmas; 1st wk May 12 Boulevard St-Germain, 75005
A favourite with serious foodies. Le Balto € Tel 01 44 07 23 66 Closed Mon
Chef Marc Mouton’s dishes are Traditional French Map 12 F4 With its Moorish decor and tasty
full of surprises and forthright 15 Rue Mazarine, 75006 tagines, you will feel like you’re in
flavours. The six-course tasting Tel 01 44 07 12 37 Marrakech in this restaurant. Try
menu is fabulous. Try the duck confit at this lively the monkfish with cinnamon.
bistro, the perfect place for a glass
La Villa Corse €€ of Sancerre and a warm ambience. Bistrot de Paris €€
Corsican Map 10 E5 Traditional French Map 12 D3
164 Boulevard de Grenelle, 75015 Breakfast in America € 33 Rue de Lille, 75007
Tel 01 53 86 70 81 Closed Sun American Map 13 B5 Tel 01 42 61 16 83 Closed Sun & Mon;
Tastes and aromas transport you 17 Rue des Ecoles, 75005 26 & 27 Jul; Christmas; New Year
to the Mediterranean island of Tel 01 43 54 50 28 Tables are always packed at
Corsica. Delicious, strongly All-day breakfast is served at this this Art Nouveau gem, a former
flavoured dishes such as olive authentic US diner: crispy bacon, haunt of the Left Bank literati.
veal and wild boar stew are pancakes with maple syrup, The menu features superior
served in warm surroundings. burgers, fries and much more. bistro classics.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 288– 91
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304  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

€€
€€
DK Choice L’Epigramme Map 12 F4 Mavrommatis Map 17 B2
Greek
Traditional French
Brasserie Balzar €€ 9 Rue de l’Éperon, 75006 42 Rue Daubenton, 75005
Traditional French Map 13 B5 Tel 01 44 41 00 09 Closed Mon Tel 01 43 31 17 17 Closed Sun & Mon
49 Rue des Ecoles, 75005 & Sun; Aug; 1 wk Dec Take a Greek culinary cruise at
Tel 01 43 54 13 67 Impeccable bistro dishes are this stylish restaurant. Superb
Highly skilled waiters in long served at this inviting restaurant food, including grilled octopus
aprons and waistcoats serve with contemporary country-inn- and moussaka.
solid brasserie fare at this style decor. Try the pork with
venerable institution. It certainly turnip choucroute. Perraudin €€
looks the part, with its smoked Traditional French Map 16 F1
mirrors and globe lights. You’re Itinéraires €€ 157 Rue St-Jacques, 75005
likely to rub shoulders with Modern French Map 13 B5 Tel 01 46 33 15 75
an academic crowd from 5 Rue de Pontoise, 75005 Checked tablecloths and hearty
La Sorbonne. There’s a café Tel 01 46 33 60 11 Closed Sat lunch; fare characterize this old-
section as well. Sun & Mon; 2 wks Aug; 2 wks Dec fashioned restaurant. Bookings
The calm, contemporary decor are accepted only 7–8pm.
here is as stylish as Sylvain
Brasserie Lipp €€ Sendra’s cooking. With a young Le Petit Châtelet €€
Traditional French Map 12 E4 vibe and a shared-table policy, Traditional French Map 13 A4
151 Boulevard St-Germain, 75006 this is a perfect place for singles. 39 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005
Tel 01 45 48 53 91 Tel 01 46 33 53 40 Closed Sun & Mon;
Once the haunt of politicians, Kitchen Galerie Bis €€ Christmas
intellectuals and artists, this Modern French Map 12 F4 This small restaurant is renowned
venerable brasserie with a 1920s 25 Rue des Grands Augustins, 75006 for its pitched roof and a terrace
interior is worth a visit for a light Tel 01 46 33 00 85 Closed Sun with views of Notre-Dame.
lunch and to soak up the decor & Mon; 2 wks Aug
and historic atmosphere. Doubling up as a modern art Le Petit Pontoise €€
gallery, this restaurant with mini- Traditional French Map 13 B5
Café de Flore €€ malist decor serves contemporary 9 Rue de Pontoise, 75005
Traditional French Map 12 E4 French cuisine with an Asian twist. Tel 01 43 29 25 20 Closed Christmas
172 Boulevard St-Germain, 75006 Try the fabulous tapas-style dishes. Black boards display specials such
Tel 01 45 48 55 26 as duck parmentier and pan-fried
A St-Germain institution, the El Loubnane €€ foie gras at this bistro. Book ahead.
Flore is renowned for the post-war Lebanese Map 13 A4
writers and philosophers who 29 Rue Galande, 75005 Le Pré Verre €€
used to come here. The menu Tel 01 43 26 70 60 Closed Mon Modern French Map 13 A5
ranges from snacks to full meals. Enjoy delicious meze at this 8 Rue Thénard, 75005
family-run restaurant. Don’t miss Tel 01 43 54 59 47 Closed Mon & Sun
Café de la Nouvelle Mairie €€ the makanik sausages and the There are Asian accents in the
Traditional French Map 17 A1 katayef – miniature crêpes stuffed dishes at this snug eatery. Wines
19 Rue des Fossés St-Jacques, 75005 with rosewater and pistachio nuts. come from small producers.
Tel 01 44 07 04 41 Closed Sat & Sun
Set in a lovely square, this bustling Marty €€ Le Procope €€
café and wine bar serves good Traditional French Map 17 B3 Traditional French Map 12 F4
seasonal food and a great choice 20 Avenue des Gobelins, 75005 13 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, 75006
of natural wines by the glass. Turn Tel 01 43 31 39 51 Closed Aug Tel 01 40 46 79 00
up early for lunch, as it gets busy The Art Deco interior of this The city’s oldest café – a magnet
with academics and students venerable institution is lovely, for writers, politicians and artists
from the nearby Sorbonne. but it is the robust dishes, such since 1686 – still has its original
as roast duck and steak-frites, ambience. Specialities include
Dans Les Landes €€ that steal the show. coq au vin and shellfish platters.
Southwestern French Tapas
Map 17 B2
119 bis Rue Monge, 75005
Tel 01 45 87 06 00
A fun place for sharing dishes.
Choose from a long list of tapas-
style dishes or try a plat du jour.
Les Deux Magots €€
Traditional French Map 12 E4
6 Place St-Germain-des-Prés, 75006
Tel 01 45 48 55 25
Like Café Flore, this café was
once the haunt of the postwar
literary elite and has preserved
much of its original decor. It’s a
little more touristy than its rival,
but still a great spot for a bite
to eat. The evening menu
includes more substantial
fare, like steak and fish. The 18th-century-style dining room of Le Procope, the oldest café in Paris
For key to prices see page 296
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  305

L’Assiette €€
Southwestern French Map 15 C4
181 Rue du Château, 75014
Tel 01 43 22 64 86 Closed Mon &
Tue; late Jul–late Aug
David Rathgeber, who trained
under Alain Ducasse, brings
style to the earthy regional
cuisine here.
L’Auberge du 15 €€
Modern French Map 16 F3
15 Rue de la Santé, 75013
Tel 01 47 07 07 45 Closed Sun
& Mon; Aug
A contemporary spin on classic
bistro fare is served at this eatery
with modern rustic decor.
The elegant dining room at La Tour d’Argent
La Cantine du Troquet €€
Restaurant L’AG €€ Sola €€€ Basque Map 15 B3
Modern French Map 12 E4 Japanese fusion Map 13 A4 101 Rue de l’Ouest, 75014
2 Rue Clement, 75006 12 Rue de l’Hôtel Colbert, 75005 Tel 01 45 40 04 98 Closed Sat & Sun
Tel 01 43 25 77 66 Closed Sun Tel 09 65 01 73 68 (lunch)/01 43 29 Savour dishes prepared with flair
Chef Alan Geeam runs this cosy 59 04 (dinner) Closed Sun & Mon; by Christian Etchebest at this
neighbourhood bistro serving 3 wks Aug lively bistro with long, shared
modern French cuisine. The Hiroki Yoshitake’s wonderfully tables. No reservations are taken,
desserts are especially inviting. subtle dishes blend the best of so arrive when it opens, at 7pm.
Japanese and French cuisines.
Shu €€ Well-stocked sake bar. La Cerisaie €€
Japanese Map 12 F4 Southwestern French Map 15 C2
8 Rue Suger, 75006 DK Choice 70 Boulevard Edgar Quinet, 75014
Tel 01 46 34 25 88 Closed Sun; 1 wk Tel 01 43 20 98 98 Closed Sat & Sun;
Easter; 3 wks Aug La Tour d’Argent €€€ mid-Jul–mid-Aug
Owner/chef Osamu Ukai Traditional French fine dining Regional specialities come in
constructs ravishing skewers for Map 13 B5 generous portions at this tiny,
omakase dining, which means 15 Quai de la Tournelle, 75005 friendly bistro. The first-class
leaving the choice up to him. Tel 01 43 54 23 31 Closed Sun & wine list includes a number of
Staff are charming and attentive. Mon; 3 wks Aug talented small producers.
Established in 1582 and showing
Terroir Parisien €€ no signs of age, this famous La Coupole €€
Traditional French Map 13 B5 institution has a romantic sixth- Traditional French Map 16 D2
20 Rue St-Victor, 75005 floor dining room complete with 102 Boulevard du Montparnasse, 75014
Tel 01 44 31 54 54 spectacular views. The service is Tel 01 43 20 14 20
The classic dishes here are formal and elegant. Chef Laurent Visit this historic 600-seat brasserie,
made from locally grown Delabre has rejuvenated the dating from 1927, for the bustling
produce supplied by small menu of classic French dishes ambience and fabulous Art Deco
farmers. This latest venture of with great panache. furnishings. Seafood platters top
Yannick Alléno (of Le Meurice the bill. Great for people-watching.
fame, see p300) is in a beautiful
modern space with a vaulted Ze Kitchen Galerie €€€
wooden ceiling. International Fusion Map 12 F4
4 Rue des Grands Augustins, 75006
Les Bouquinistes €€€ Tel 01 44 32 00 32 Closed Sat & Sun;
Modern French Map 12 F3 2 wks Aug
53 Quai des Grands Augustins, Inventive cooking, informed by
75006 chef William Ledeuil’s travels in
Tel 01 43 25 45 94 Closed 2 wks Aug Southeast Asia, is offered in this
Overlooking the Seine, this is eatery with displays of modern art.
an offshoot of Guy Savoy’s
gastronomic empire. It serves
relatively simple dishes based
on exquisite seasonal produce. Luxembourg and
Montparnasse
Le Comptoir du Relais €€€
Traditional French Map 12 F4 L’Arbre de Sel €€
9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006 Korean Map 15 B1
Tel 01 44 27 07 97 138 Rue de Vaugirard, 75015
Devotees have been known to Tel 01 47 83 29 52 Closed Sun; Aug
wait hours for a table at Yves Mouthwatering dishes – spicy, very
Camdeborde’s celebrated spicy and vegetarian – are beau-
temple to bistro cuisine. Try tifully presented at this pleasant Adding the finishing touches to a seafood
the signature pig’s trotters. restaurant with efficient service. platter at La Coupole
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 288–91
296-308_EW_Paris.indd 305 03/04/17 10:57 am

306  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Le Jeu de Quilles €€ Le Sélect €€ Le Dôme €€€
Traditional French Map 16 D4 Traditional French Map 16 D2 Seafood Map 16 D2
45 Rue Boulard, 75014 99 Boulevard du Montparnasse, 75006 108 Blvd du Montparnasse, 75014
Tel 01 53 90 76 22 Closed Mon & Sun; Tel 01 45 48 38 24 Tel 01 43 35 25 81 Closed mid-Jul–
Tue lunch; 2 wks Aug Once the favourite haunt of expat mid-Aug
Top-quality ingredients (some authors such as F Scott Fitzgerald A rendezvous for US intellectuals
available from the épicerie at and Ernest Hemingway, Le Sélect in the early 1900s, Le Dôme is
the front) make up the timeless is one of Montparnasse’s great known for its seafood. You can’t
dishes in this eatery with a historic café-brasseries. Drink in go wrong with the oysters or
simple interior. the atmosphere over a cup of mixed seafood platters.
coffee or a relaxed lunch.
Moustache €€
Modern French Map 16 D1 Tavola di Gio €€
3 Rue Ste-Beuve, 75006 Italian Map 16 D2 Further Afield
Tel 01 42 22 56 65 Closed Mon & Sun; 210 Boulevard Raspail, 75014
1 wk Aug Tel 01 43 35 47 17 Closed Christmas & DK Choice
Exposed brick walls and crisp New Year
tablecloths create a stylish A genial trattoria with a pristine Le Baron Rouge €
setting for Fabien Chivot’s modern look, but traditional Wine bar/tapas & platters
sensa tional dishes, injected specialities. The pasta and Map 14 F5
with Asian flavours. seafood are recommended. 1 Rue Théophile Roussel, 75012
Tel 01 43 43 14 32
L’Ourcine €€ DK Choice Sample divine oysters direct
Southwestern French Map 17 A3 from the Atlantic coast, or
92 Rue Broca, 75013 Le Timbre €€ platters of charcuterie and
Tel 01 47 07 13 65 Closed Mon & Sun; Traditional French Map 16 D1 cheeses, inside this tiny, lively
Jul–Aug 3 Rue Ste-Beuve, 75006 bar. At peak times, the crowd
Sylvain Danière has lighted Tel 01 45 49 10 40 Closed Sun & spills out onto the pavement.
upon a recipe for success at Mon; mid-Jul–mid-Aug There is a great selection of
this simple bistro. The menu This is what its name says: a wines by the glass, or fill an
changes all the time, depending “postage stamp” of a restaurant, empty bottle from one of the
on what is in season. Expect the realm of British chef Chris barrels bulging in the doorways.
superb dishes from the Basque Wright. For his short but
and Béarn regions, such as considered menu, he chooses
piquillo peppers stuffed with the finest, freshest ingredients L’Encrier €
puréed cod and potato. and prepares them in full view Traditional French Map 14 F5
of the diners. Don’t miss his 55 Rue Traversière, 75012
Les Papilles €€ terrine de campagne. Tel 01 44 68 08 16 Closed Sun; 3 wks
Traditional French Map 16 F1 Aug–Sep
30 Rue Gay Lussac, An inviting, homely restaurant,
75005 Les Zazous €€ jam-packed with locals. Try the
Tel 01 43 25 20 79 Closed Sun Traditional French Map 15 C1 Rocquefort, and Jurançon wine.
Les Papilles is a charming multi- 46 Boulevard du Montparnasse 75015
tasker: deli, coffee bar, wine Tel 01 45 49 32 88 Closed Mon La Marine €
shop and bistro all rolled into Classic bistro, with creative menus Seafood Map 8 D5
one. The set, fixed-price dinners and fixed-priced meals, plus a 55 bis Quai de Valmy, 75010
are unforgettable. terrace for alfresco dining in the Tel 01 42 39 69 81
warmer months. Unsurprisingly, fish is this buzzing
Le Parc aux Cerfs €€ restaurant’s speciality: served in a
Traditional French Map 16 D2 Chez Marcel €€€ stew or in pastry, or as a steak
50 Rue Vavin, 75006 Traditional French Map 16 D1 with nettle sauce. Advance
Tel 01 43 54 87 83 Closed 2 wks 7 Rue Stanislas, 75006 booking recommended.
Aug Tel 01 45 48 29 94 Closed Sat & Sun
Good-value prices and a Marcel offers classic dishes and
pleasant courtyard for alfresco advises customers. The coq au
dining make “The Deer Park” vin is especially tasty.
a winner. The menu features
innovative variations on old DK Choice
French classics.
La Closerie des Lilas €€€
Le Plomb du Cantal €€ Traditional French Map 16 E2
Traditional French Map 15 C2 171 Blvd du Montparnasse, 75006
3 Rue de la Gaité, 75014 Tel 01 40 51 34 50
Tel 01 43 35 16 92 This long-lived, little-changed
Down in Montparnasse, this establishment has always been
classic corner bistro serves up favoured by literati and artists.
French fare from the Auvergne If you’re feeling flush, splash
region, including pork dishes and out on classic cuisine in the
truffade – thin potatoes cooked restaurant proper. Prices are
in goose fat topped with cheese. kinder in the brasserie and bar,
They also pair duck and steak where a pianist plays nightly. The
with thick, garlicky mashed summer terrace is also a treat. Sign for the cosy Le Baron Rouge bar,
potatoes called aligot. serving tapas and platters
For key to prices see page 296
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  307

















The splendid Art Nouveau interior of the historic Julien brasserie
Rose Bakery € Le Bistrot Paul Bert €€ La Cicciolina €€
British vegetarian Map 6 F3 Traditional French Map 2 F2 Italian
46 Rue des Martyrs, 75009 18 Rue Paul Bert, 75011 9–11 Rue Crespin du Gant,
Tel 01 42 82 12 80 Closed 2 wks Aug Tel 01 43 72 24 01 Closed Sun 75011
The haunt of expats homesick for & Mon; Aug Tel 01 43 55 70 57
scones, as well as a growing crowd Superb food, a great wine list Located in the up-and-coming
of Anglophile Parisians, this café and charming 1930s decor Ménilmontant area, this light
serves quiches, salads, soup and ensure this bistro never falls and airy trattoria oozes Italian
English cakes. It also has fabulous out of fashion. style. Head for the terrace
coffee and Neal’s Yard cheeses. and enjoy authentic pizzas
with generous toppings and
Albion €€ DK Choice speciality pasta while sipping
Mediterranean Map 7 A3 Brasserie Flo €€ an Italian cocktail.
80 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, Alsatian Map 7 B4
75010 7 Cour des Petites-Ecuries, 75010 Les Enfants Perdus €€
Tel 01 42 46 02 44 Closed Sat & Sun; Tel 01 47 70 13 59 European Map 7 C4
3 wks Aug; 2 wks Christmas This captivating brasserie 9 Rue des Récollets, 75010
A wine-focused bistro, bar and features striking decoration Tel 01 81 29 48 26
shop in one. Eat simple, delicious dating from the early 1900s: Hip locals congregate at this
fare in the dining area at the back, rich wood wall panels, colourful spot next to the Canal St-Martin,
and soak up the genial ambience. stained-glass windows, leather- where innovation and tradition
covered bench seats and brass come together in a range of
DK Choice luggage racks. The fare reflects delightful, hearty dishes. On
Sundays, the chef serves up a
its Alsatian origins, with a
Auberge Etchegorry €€ straightforward brasserie generous brunch with produce
Basque Map 17 B4 menu that includes superb delivered fresh from the market.
41 Rue de Croulebarbe, 75013 shellfish and sauerkraut, and
Tel 01 44 08 83 51 Closed Sun & beer drawn from the barrel. Julien €€
Mon, 3 weeks in Aug Alsatian Map 7 B5
In the early 19th century, this 16 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis,
was the site of a rural tavern Chatomat €€ 75010
frequented by Victor Hugo. Modern French Tel 01 47 70 12 06
Today, the old, rustic interior 6 Rue Victor Letalle, 75020 Inside a splendid Art Nouveau
of this restaurant, with copper Tel 01 47 97 25 77 Closed Sun & Mon; building dating to the
pans on the walls and salamis mid-Aug–early Sep beginning of the 20th century
hanging from wooden beams, Housed in an airy, industrial- and featuring Alphonse Mucha
evokes those days. The food is looking building with exposed murals and huge mirrors,
as comforting as the decor – brick walls, this lively restaurant this historic brasserie serves
dishes include confits and offers a limited menu, but the appetizing classic dishes,
scallops and black pudding food is astonishingly original. from grilled Chateaubriand
with caramelized apples. to sole meunière.
Caillebotte €€
Modern French Map 6 E3 Khun Akorn €€
A La Biche au Bois €€ 8 Rue Hippolyte Lebas, 75009 Thai
Traditional French Map 14 E5 Tel 01 53 20 88 70 Closed Sat & 8 Avenue de Taillebourg,
45 Avenue Ledru-Rollin, 75012 Sun 75011
Tel 01 43 43 34 38 Closed Sat & Sun; A second venue for chef Franck Tel 01 43 56 20 03
late Jul–end Aug; Christmas; New Year Baranger of Le Pantruche (see In warm weather, head straight
Popular for its exemplary home p299), with a different look – pale, for the pretty roof terrace at
cooking, this bistro comes into its almost Nordic decor – but the Khun Akorn. The interior,
own in the game season, with same pro service and inventive decorated in Eastern style,
grouse, venison and wild boar cuisine, popping with flavours. is also attractive. The cuisine
dishes. The prix fixe menu includes The lunch deals are superb value is beautifully flavoured. Advance
a platter of cheeses and desserts. for food of this calibre. booking is recommended.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 289–91
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308  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Mama Shelter €€ Villa Pereire €€ with celeriac, foie gras and black
Traditional French Modern French Map 4 E1 truffle – in this crescent-shaped
109 Rue de Bagnolet, 75020 116 Boulevard Pereire, 75017 dining room, the epitome of
Tel 01 43 48 45 45 Tel 01 43 80 88 68 Closed Aug Belle Epoque elegance. This
Philippe Starck’s on-trend decor Popular with locals, this eatery has restaurant is situated in the
sets the scene for this lively plush, Empire-style decor. The middle of the Bois de Boulogne
brasserie. The food from chef fusion menu includes crayfish and diners enjoy stunning views
Alain Senderen’s kitchen is firmly and vegetable spring rolls. from the romantic terrace.
rooted in tradition, featuring
classics such as duck parmentier. Le Volant Basque €€ Le Pavillon Montsouris €€€
Basque Map 10 D5 Modern French
Neva Cuisine €€ 13 Rue Béatrix Dussane, 75015 20 Rue Gazan, 75014
Modern French Map 5 C2 Tel 01 45 75 27 67 Closed Sun; last Tel 01 43 13 29 00 Closed mid-Feb–
2 Rue de Berne, 75008 wk Jul; 3 wks Aug mid-Mar
Tel 01 45 22 18 91 Closed Sat & Sun; A cosy restaurant serving Enjoy classic dishes with a
3 wks Aug traditional cuisine at its best: modern creative twist and fine
A 1930s café is home to Mexican- staples include the signature views in the conservatory or on
born Beatriz Gonzalez’s stylish boeuf bourguignon, veal stew, the terrace of this elegant Belle
res taurant. The innovative home-made fruit tarts and Epoque pavilion with a magical,
cooking includes pea soup and chocolate mousse. tranquil setting on the edge of
cod steak with aubergine caviar. Park Montsouris. The fixed-price
Don’t miss chef Yannick Les Zygomates €€ menu is good value.
Tranchant’s desserts. Modern French
7 Rue de Capri, 75012 Le Quinzième €€€
Septime €€ Tel 01 40 19 93 04 Closed Sun Modern French
Modern French & Mon; Aug 14 Rue Cauchy, 75015
80 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Wonderfully innovative food Tel 01 45 54 43 43 Closed Sat & Sun;
Tel 01 43 67 38 29 Closed Sat & Sun; is served in this charming 2 wks Aug
Aug former delicatessen. Dishes There is a happy marriage of
The elegant, minimalist decor include turkey in a salted tradition and innovation in
and an open kitchen complement rosemary crust and snail and celebrity TV chef Cyril Lignac’s
Bertrand Grébaut’s avant-garde mushroom ravioli. exquisite seasonal cuisine at this
cooking at this bistro. restaurant near the Parc André
Le Grand Venise €€€ Citroën. Dishes might include
Terminus Nord €€ Italian Brittany scallops with a smoky
Traditional French Map 7 B2 171 Rue de la Convention, 75015 Lapsang Souchong cream, or
23 Rue de Dunkerque, 75010 Tel 01 45 32 49 71 Closed Sun roast duck. The service is
Tel 01 42 85 05 15 & Mon; Aug; Christmas seamless. Enjoy dining alfresco
A great Parisian institution dating As a restaurant, Le Grand Venise on the large, tranquil terrace.
from 1925, this Art Nouveau and is generous in every respect: from
Art Deco gem serves delicious the owner’s warm hospitality to DK Choice
classic food. Always bustling and the enormous portions of pasta,
fun for people-watching. meat and fish dishes. Be sure to Le Train Bleu €€€
try the caramel ice cream. Traditional French Map 18 F1
Le Verre Volé €€ Gare de Lyon, 1 Place Louis
Modern French Map 8 D4 Le Pavillon de la Grande Armand, 75012
67 Rue de Lancry, 75010 Cascade €€€ Tel 01 43 43 09 06
Tel 01 48 03 17 34 Closed Aug Traditional French fine dining Named after the express train
Booking is essential at this tiny, Map 3 A3 that once whisked the in-crowd
easy-going wine shop-cum- Bois de Boulogne, Allée de to the Riviera, this isn’t just a
bistro, with a kitchen that Longchamp, 75016 station restaurant. Its early
punches well above its weight. Tel 01 45 27 33 51 19th-century decor is ravishing
Staff can advise on the best Savour superb cuisine – sautéed and wildly romantic, with
wine pairings. sweetbreads, or macaroni stuffed flamboyantly gilded ceilings
and enchanting frescoes. The
menu consists of upmarket
brasserie classics made from
fresh seasonal produce. The
pastries are a highlight.
Au Trou Gascon €€€
Southwestern French
40 Rue Taine, 75012
Tel 01 43 44 34 26 Closed Sat & Sun
Exquisite cuisine is served at
Alain Dutournier’s restaurant.
Try the signature cassoulet, or
lamb from the Pyrenees. There
is an astonishing Armagnac
selection, and the wines range
from prestigious Bordeaux to
Terminus Nord, a historic brasserie near the Eurostar terminal little-known crus.
For key to prices see page 296

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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  309

Bars, Tearooms, Coffee Shops
and Street Food markets and bottles them in
small batches. Les Trois 8
There are many wonderful places in Paris where you can serves up small plates
enjoy a drink or a snack. Tearooms and coffee shops are alongside a strict menu of
perfect for a reviving afternoon stop, perhaps with a microbrews – there are no
decadent cake or two. Wine bars (bars à vin) in every quarter commercial beers to be found
offer various wines by the glass and, increasingly, excellent here. English-style pubs like the
food. Beer bars have astounding selections, and Irish pubs are Frog and the Princess and the
Frog and Rosbif are classic
much-loved spots serving Guinness in a relaxed, sometimes examples, and they, too, brew
rowdy atmosphere. Alternatively, choose from chic hotel bars their own beers. Bar staff are
or fun late-night venues. Street food is popular in Paris, with usually very friendly and will
food trucks and deli sandwich bars elbowing out the happily help you choose a
traditional ham-and-cheese baguette sandwich. beer that’s right for you.
Aside from traditionally
Wine Bars English pubs such as The
switches focus in the evening, Bombardier in the Latin
Most Parisian wine bars are when the emphasis is more Quarter, Paris also has dozens
small, convivial neighbourhood on the wine, with sharing of Irish pubs and a few Scottish
places. Some speciality wine plates of uncooked, but still ones, too. The best Irish pubs
bars serve natural and organic delicious, food. Pratz has a include Coolin in St-Germain-
wines made by small producers, great selection of wine and des-Prés and O’Sullivans by
typically accompanied by sharing plates; it also sells a sac the Mill in Montmartre. A
tapas-style bites. The cuisine apéro, a nifty bag containing Highland fling and good whisky
is often exciting and innovative a bottle of wine, cheese, ham can be found in The Auld
and can be as much of a draw and half a baguette, perfect for Alliance in the Marais.
as the wine. an impromptu picnic.
One of the best of the A number of top restaurants Cocktail and Late-
speciality wine bars is L’Avant have opened annexes where Night Bars
Comptoir, run by celebrity chef you can eat more cheaply, but
Yves Camdeborde. It serves a the food and quality of the wine Being such an elegant city,
choice selection of natural is still extremely high; Frenchie it’s no surprise that Paris has
wines and delicious sharing Bar à Vins, for example, is an more than its share of cocktail
plates. Le Garde Robe (see offshoot of the acclaimed and late-night bars. Some
p296) is a stylish neighbourhood Frenchie restaurant (see p297). handsome Paris brasseries, such
favourite, offering natural More traditional bars à vins as La Coupole (see p305) and
and biodynamic wines and a include Le Baron Rouge (see La Closerie des Lilas (see p306),
good lunchtime menu with p306), with its great selection of have long wooden or zinc
vegetarian choices. Au Passage wines, and Taverne Henri IV, bars, a glamorous ambience
(dinner only, open till 1.30am) is where lawyers from the nearby and a sense of distinguished
also a popular bar à vins serving Palais de Justice wind down over times past. Hotel bars are
creative cuisine in a buzzing a glass of wine and generous some of the loveliest places
atmopshere. platters of cheese or charcuterie. for cocktails in Paris. Bar 228
Also increasingly popular is If you’re keen to learn more at the hotel Le Meurice (see
the cave à manger – a wine about French wines, you can p284) has a cosy atmosphere
cellar with a dining area. You also join a tasting session; and lavish decor. It serves a
can eat in, as long as you order Ô Chateau wine bar runs wide range of cocktails, and
one of their wines by the glass very popular sessions with there is live jazz every night.
or buy a bottle and pay a English-speaking sommeliers. Other hotel bars of note
moderate corkage charge. include Le Bar at the Four
The advantage with this is that Beer Bars and Pubs Seasons George V (see p284),
you can always take away a few where bartenders will shake
bottles of anything you’ve tried The craft beer scene in Paris is your Martini at your table and
and liked. Usually, these cavistes now catching up with other present it in an individual silver
stock a superb range of wines, cities such as London and shaker, and the fashionable and
mostly natural and organic, Portland, with new micro- chic Bar du Plaza at the Plaza
many inexpensive. La Quincave breweries popping up all over Athénée Hotel, which has a
operates on this model, selling the city. La Fine Mousse has 20 resident DJ five nights a week.
some 200 wines; the food, such artisan beers on tap, while the If you are after an inventive
as terrine and saucisson, is Brasserie Goutte d’Or creates cocktail, head to a speakeasy-
simple and tasty. Popular for brews inspired by the style bar. One of the best is
its great-value lunch, 5e Cru neighbourhood’s African the Prescription Cocktail Club,




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310  TR A VELLERS ' NEEDS


a glamorous venue serving the Marais, well known for its Marais. The owner of Ten Belles,
creative cocktails to a cool exhaustive choice of tea; you which was one of the first, went
young crowd. Also popular can also buy loose-leaf tea on to open the Belleville
is the stylish Experimental from an impressive array of Brulerie, now the city’s top
Cocktail Club, which lives up caddies lining the walls, plus local roaster. The Caféothèque
to its name with cocktails such lovely teapots to take home. is another major roaster in the
as Blind Date at Chelsea (sloe Also very classy is Ladurée, Marais and has plenty of space
gin, cognac, maraschino and near Place de la Madeleine, for laptop-wielding workers
strawberries). Le China, an where you can sip tea and looking to get away from their
Asian bar/restaurant with chic nibble the house specialities, home offices. HolyBelly and
Neo-Colonial decor and a macaroons, amid the splendour Craft Café are popular with the
romantic ambience, also does of gilt-edged mirrors and fashionable crowd and offer
great cocktails. ceiling frescoes. Ladurée has some delicious lunch options
Oberkampf, in the east, is equally grand outlets on the too. KB in Pigalle and Coutume
one of the best areas to go Champs-Elysées and in on the Left Bank have also
for some late-night bar action; St-Germain. Perhaps the helped spread the coffee craze
well established on the scene city’s most sumptuous tea further afield.
are Café Charbon and Le Kitch. room, though, is the lavishly
Bespoke is a speakeasy-style decorated café in the Musée Street Food
bar specializing in creative Jacquemart-André (see also
cocktails – try, for example, p211), where you can enjoy Street food has really taken
the Capri C’est Fini (tomato, tea and fine pastries while off in Paris, and there’s a large
basil and balsamic vinegar). admiring the wall tapestries variety of offerings. Alongside
The Canal St-Martin area also and Tiepolo’s ceiling fresco. the more traditional crêpes and
has some great venues for More relaxed options include ham-and-cheese baguettes,
canalside drinking, such as Le Loir dans la Théière in the you’ll also find New York deli-
the energetic Point Ephémère, Marais, where you can sit back style sandwiches, bagels,
which also programmes live in a comfy sofa and feast on burgers, tacos and empañadas.
music and DJ nights. A number the heavenly lemon meringue Frenchie To Go attracts queues
of bars bring in DJs on the pie. Good for both afternoon at lunchtime for its tasty
weekends; the best are listed tea and Sunday brunch is the pastrami sandwiches and other
on p345. charming L’Heure Gourmande, deli-style fillings. Chezaline
Bars that are great for a hidden away down a passage in serves gourmet baguettes in a
relaxing drink include the tiny, St-Germain; on sunny days converted horse butcher’s, and
stone-clad Stolly’s in the Marais you can relax on the tranquil Big Fernand styles itself as an
and the legendary Harry’s New terrace, away from the crowds, atelier du hamburger, using
York Bar, which has been and enjoy hot chocolate and carefully sourced ingredients to
serving cocktails since 1911 and home-made cakes. Another produce burgers with a French
claims to have invented the haven from the city bustle is twist. At lunchtime, La Pointe
Bloody Mary. the lovely, mosaic-tiled Café du Groin, a café/wine bar near
de la Mosquée, where you the Gare du Nord, does
Tearooms can get sticky pastries and excellent takeaway Breton-style
aromatic mint tea. Nearby, rolls and baguettes with fillings
Tea rooms are well-established and perfect after a visit to such as goat’s cheese, pickled
Paris institutions. They usually Notre-Dame, is La Fourmi peppers and rosemary honey.
serve a tempting array of Ailée, a cosy place with books For Middle Eastern street food,
exquisite cakes, elegant pastries on the shelves and a fire head to Rue des Rosiers, in the
and a wide choice of tea. burning away in the colder Marais, where you’ll find the
Typical opening hours are months. renowned L’As du Falafel
11.30am– 7pm. Some salons de Chocolate-lovers should head (see p296), among many other
thé also offer light lunches, as to Chocolaterie Jacques Genin, falafel joints. Montparnasse has
well as breakfast and afternoon which combines a shop and a the best crêpe stands: the
tea; many open on Sunday salon de thé; enjoy a pot of undisputed favourite is
for brunch. decadent chocolat chaud or Crêperie Josselin.
A long-time favourite, buy a bag of the delicious Ice-cream stands open
dating from around 1903 and caramels to take away. around noon and stay open
sporting a fabulous Belle late in the summer. It’s worth
Epoque interior, is Angélina, Coffee Shops queuing (sometimes around
renowned for its thick hot the block) for the city’s best
chocolate and the Mont Blanc, A new wave of boutique coffee ice cream at Maison Berthillon;
a rich chestnut, cream and shops and roasters has popped seasoned gourmets come from
meringue confection. Mariage up in recent years. The best across the city to sample a
Frères, in business since 1854, ones are located around the scoop or two of their delicious
is an elegant salon de thé in Canal Saint Martin and the concoctions.




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  311


DIRECTORY
Ile de la Cité and Map 13 C3. 8 Rue du Fouarre 75005. COFFEE SHOPS
Ile St-Louis Mariage Frères Map 13 A4. Coutume
30–32 Rue du Bourg-
WINE BARS St-Germain 47 Rue de Babylone
Tibourg 75004. 75007. Map 11 B4.
Taverne Henri IV Map 13 C3. WINE BARS
13 Pl du Pont Neuf 75001. COFFEE SHOPS Montmartre
Map 12 F3. L’Avant Comptoir
Belleville Brulerie 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon WINE BARS
ICE-CREAM PARLOURS 75006. Map 12 F4.
10 Rue Pradier 75019 Brasserie Goutte d’Or
Maison Berthillon Caféothèque La Quincave 28 Rue de la Goutte d’Or
29–31 Rue St-Louis-en- 52 Rue de l’Hotel de Ville 17 Rue Bréa, 75006. 75018. Map 7 B1.
l’Ile 75004. Map 13 C4. 75004. Map 13 C4. Map 16 D2. Pratz
Tuileries Quarter Craft Café PUBS 59 Rue Jean Baptiste
24 Rue des Vinaigriers Pigalle 75009. Map 6 E2.
WINE BARS 75010. Map 8 D4. Coolin PUBS
15 Rue Clément 75006.
Frenchie Bar à Vins HolyBelly Map 12 E4. O’Sullivans by the Mill
5 Rue du Nil 75002. 19 Rue Lucien Saint Paix 92 Blvd de Clichy 75018.
Map 7 A5. 75010. Map 7 C4. Frog and Princess Map 6 E2.
9 Rue Princesse 75006.
Ô Chateau KB Map 12 E4.
68 Rue Jean-Jacques 53 Ave Trudaine 75009. STREET FOOD
Rousseau 75001. Map 12 F2. Map 6 F2. BARS La Pointe du Groin
BARS Ten Belles Prescription Cocktail 8 Rue de Belzunce 75010.
Map 7 B3.
Club
Harry’s New York Bar 10 Rue de la Grange aux 23 Rue Mazarine 75006.
5 Rue Daunou 75002. Belles 75010. Map 8 D4. Map 12 F4. Further Afield
Map 6 E5. STREET FOOD
TEA ROOMS WINE BARS
TEAROOMS L’As du Falafel Le Baron Rouge
Angélina 34 Rue des Rosiers 75004. L’Heure Gourmande 1 Rue Théophile Roussel
22 Passage Dauphine
Map 13 C3.
226 Rue de Rivoli 75001. 75006. Map 12 F4. 75012. Map 14 F5.
Map 12 D1. Beaubourg and Au Passage
Ladurée Les Halles Jardin des Plantes 1 bis Passage St-Sébastien
16 Rue Royale 75008. TEA ROOMS 75011. Map 14 E2.
Map 5 C5. WINE BARS PUBS
STREET FOOD Le Garde Robe Café de la Mosquée
41 Rue de l’Arbre Sec 39 Rue Geoffroy St-Hilaire La Fine Mousse
Big Fernand 75001. Map 12 E2. 75005. Map 17 C2. 6 Ave Jean Aicard 75011.
40 Pl du Marché St-Honoré Les Trois 8
75001. Map 12 E1. PUBS Montparnasse 11 Rue Victor Letalle 75020.
Frenchie To Go Frog and Rosbif STREET FOOD BARS
9 Rue du Nil 75002. 116 Rue St-Denis 75002.
Map 7 A5. Map 13 B1. Crêperie Josselin Bespoke
BARS 67 Rue du Montparnasse 3 Rue Oberkampf 75011.
The Marais 75014. Map 16 D2. Map 14 E2.
Experimental
PUBS Cocktail Club Invalides and Café Charbon
37 Rue St-Sauveur 75002. Eiffel Tower 109 Rue Oberkampf
The Auld Alliance Map 13 A1. 75011. Map 14 E1.
80 Rue François Miron BARS
75004. Map 13 C3. Latin Quarter Le China
50 Rue de Charenton
BARS Bar du Plaza 75012. Map 14 F5.
WINE BARS Plaza Athénée Hotel, 25
Stolly’s Ave Montaigne 75008. Le Kitch
16 Rue Cloche Perce 5e Cru Map 10 F1. 10 Rue Oberkampf 75011.
75004. Map 13 C3. 7 Rue du Cardinal Map 14 E2.
Lemoine. Map 13 B5. TEAROOMS
TEAROOMS Point Ephémère
PUBS Café Jacquemart-
Chocolaterie The Bombardier André 200 Quai de Valmy 75010.
Map 8 E2.
Jacques Genin 2 Pl du Panthéon 75005. 158 Blvd Haussmann
133 Rue de Turenne Map 17 A1. 75008. Map 5 A4. STREET FOOD
75003. Map 14 D1. Ladurée Chezaline
TEAROOMS
Le Loir dans la Théière 75 Ave des Champs- 85 Rue de la Roquette
3 Rue des Rosiers 75004. La Fourmi Ailée Elysées 75008. Map 4 F5. 75011. Map 14 F3.
309-311_EW_Paris.indd 311 03/04/17 10:58 am

312  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
SHOPS AND MARKETS


Paris seems to be the very definition of luxury kitchen gadgets to tableware. Remember,
and good living. Beautifully dressed people too, that Parisian shops and markets are the
sip wine by the banks of the Seine against a ideal place to indulge in the French custom
backdrop of splendid architecture, or hurry of strolling through the streets, seeing and
down gallery-lined streets carrying parcels being seen. For high fashion, there are the
from specialist shops. The least expensive exquisite couture house window displays
way of joining the chic set is to create French on Avenue Montaigne, or you can browse
style with accessories or costume jewellery. the bookstalls selling second-hand books and
Alternatively, splash out on the fashion, or prints along the Seine. Below is an overview
the wonderful food and related items, from of the most famous places to shop.

Opening Hours Non-EU residents shopping in
Shops are usually open 10am– France are entitled to a refund
7pm, Monday to Saturday, but of this if they spend a minimum
hours can vary. Many department of €175 in one shop in one day.
stores stay open late on Thursday, You must have been resident in
while boutiques may shut for an France for less than six months
hour or two at midday. Markets and either carry the goods with
and local neighbourhood shops you out of the country within
close on Mondays. Some three months of purchase or get
smaller shops shut for the the shop to forward them to
summer, usually in August, but you. If shopping in a group, you
they may leave a note on the can usually buy goods together
door suggesting an equivalent in order to reach the minimum.
shop that is open nearby. Larger shops and department
stores will generally supply a
form (bordereau de détaxe or
How to Pay bordereau de vente) and help
Cash is readily available from you to fill it in. When you leave Le Bon Marché in St-Germain, one of the
the ATMs in most banks, which France or the EU, you present oldest stores in Paris
accept both credit and bank the form to Customs, who either
debit cards. Visa and MasterCard permit you to be reimbursed large airports such as Orly and
are the most widely accepted straight away, or forward your Roissy, some banks may have
credit cards. claim to the place where you the facilities to refund you on
bought the merchandise; the the spot. Though the process
shop eventually sends you a involves a lot of paperwork,
VAT Exemption
refund. If you know someone in it can be worth it. There is no
A sales tax (TVA) of 5.5–19.6 per Paris, it may be quicker if they refund on food, drink, tobacco,
cent is imposed on most goods can pick up the refund for you cars and motorbikes. Bicycles,
and services in EU countries. at the shop. Alternatively, at however, can be reimbursed.
Sales
The best sales (soldes) are held
in January and July, although
increasingly often you can find
sale items throughout the year,
and especially at Christmas. If
you see goods labelled Stock, it
means that they are stock items.
Dégriffé means designer labels
marked down, frequently from
the previous year’s collections.
A dépôt-vente sells high-end
second-hand clothes. The sales
tend to occupy prime floor
space for the first month and
are then relegated to the back
Printemps, the grande dame of Parisian department stores of the store.




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SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  313

Department Stores
Much of the pleasure of
shopping in Paris is derived from
going to the small specialist
shops. But if time is short, try the
grands magasins (department
stores). Some still operate a
ticket system for selling goods.
The shop assistant writes up a
ticket for goods from their own
boutique which you take to one
of the cashiers. You then return
with your validated ticket to pick
up your purchase. This can be
time-consuming, so go early in
the morning and don’t shop on
Saturdays. The French don’t pay Kenzo designerwear in the Place des Victoires (see pp317, 319)
much attention to queues, so
be assertive! Because of security quality-to-price ratio. The numerous shops around Paris,
issues, guards will ask to check prepared food sections serve but the branch on the Champs-
your bags before you enter the restaurant-quality fare to Elysées specializes in music,
store. They may also ask to take away. DVDs and concert tickets and
inspect them as you leave. There are also several US-style is open until 11.45pm daily. All
These are random checks, not malls (centres commercials), such of their products are available
an implication of theft. as Beaugrenelle, Passy Plaza, online, too, along with tickets
Depart ment stores vary in Forum des Halles and Les for concerts, sporting events
style and content, but all have Quatre Temps – quick options if and theatrical events.
places to eat. Printemps is noted you want all your shops in one
for its innovative household place. However, clothing and DIRECTORY
goods section and large shoe boutiques tend to be
menswear store. The clothes smaller, with less choice than Beaugrenelle
departments for women and their stand-alone stores. These 12 Rue Linois 75015.
children are well stocked. Visit malls also have large cinemas. Map 9 B5. Tel 01 53 95 24 00.
the lovely domed restaurant in Galeries Lafayette is perhaps BHV
the cupola during shopping the best-known department 52–64 Rue de Rivoli 75004.
hours. BHV (Le Bazar de l’Hôtel store and has a wide range of Map 13 B3. Tel 09 77 40 14 00.
de Ville) is a DIY enthusiast’s clothes available at all price Le Bon Marché
paradise. It also sells a host of levels. Its first-floor trends 24 Rue de Sèvres 75007.
other items related to home section plays host to lots of Map 11 C5. Tel 01 44 39 80 00.
decor. The Left Bank Le Bon innovative designers. Galeries FNAC
Marché is considered to be the Lafayette boasts a wonderful Forum des Halles 75001.
world’s first depart ment store food hall, Lafayette Gourmet, Map 13 A2. Tel 0825 020 020.
and today is Paris’s most chic. which offers a vast array of 74 Ave des Champs-Elysées 75008.
The designer clothing section is mouthwatering goodies. Map 4 F5. Tel 0825 020 020.
well-sourced, the high-end FNAC is the largest retailer 136 Rue de Rennes 75006.
accessories are excellent, and in France of books, music and Map 16 D1. Tel 08 25 02 00 20.
the own-brand linen has a good electronic equipment. There are ∑ fnac.com
Forum des Halles
1 Rue Pierre Lescot 75001.
Map 13 A2. Tel 01 44 76 87 08.
Galeries Lafayette
40 Blvd Haussmann 75009.
Map 6 E4. Tel 01 42 82 34 56.
Passy Plaza
53 Rue de Passy 75016.
Map 9 B3. Tel 01 40 50 09 07.
Printemps
64 Blvd Haussmann 75009.
Map 6 D4. Tel 01 42 82 50 00.
Les Quatre Temps
15 Parvis de la Défense 92092.
Tel 01 47 73 54 44.
The splendid interior of Galeries Lafayette




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314  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Paris’s Best: Shops and Markets

By turns ultra-conservative and wackily avant-garde, Paris
is a treasure trove of quality shops and boutiques. Time-
honoured emporia mix with modern precincts in a city
that buzzes with life in its inner quarters, not least in the
markets. Here you can buy everything from exotic fruit
and vegetables to fine china and vintage treasures. Whether
you’re shopping for handmade shoes, perfectly cut clothes
or traditionally made cheeses, or simply soaking up the
atmosphere, you won’t be disappointed.
Place de la Madeleine
Top-class groceries and
The Centre of Paris Couture delicacies are sold on the
north side of this square
St-Philippe- (see p218).
George V RUE DE PONTHIEU du-Roule BLVD MALESHERBES
A V E N U E
Franklin D. RUE DU FAUBOURG ST HONORE
Roosevelt Hermés
D E S
Guy AVE DE MARIGNY
Laroche Chanel AVE FRANKLIN D ROOSEVELT C H A M P S RUE See inset map
AVENUE MONTAIGNE Champs Champs-Elysées
RUE FRANCOIS 1er
Nina Ricci AVENUE GABRIEL ROYALE
A V E N U E G E O R G E V
AVE MARCEAU
Christian
Elysées
Yves Saint Dior Clemenceau E LY S E E S Concorde
Laurent AVE W CHURCHILL
Givenchy PLACE
DE LA
Alma COURS ALBERT 1er COURS LA REINE CONCORDE
Marceau
S e i n e R iver S eine
Invalides and
Chanel Eiffel Tower
Coco Chanel (1883– Quarter
1971) reigned over the
fashion world from No.
31 Rue Cambon. The
main boutique is in the
Avenue Montaigne
(see pp317, 319).
Rue de Rivoli
Inexpensive mementos like this
Paris snow globe can be found in the
shops on the Rue de Rivoli (see p132).
Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves
This charming and relaxed market sells old Montparnasse
books, linen, postcards, china and musical
instruments (weekends only – see p331).


0 kilometres 1
0 miles 0.5
Kenzo
The Japanese designer has
colourful apparel for men,
women and children in his
clothes shops (see pp317, 319).




314-315_EW_Paris.indd 314 03/04/17 10:58 am

SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  315


Cartier
The early Cartier jewellery designs,
with their beautifully cut stones, are
still highly sought after. This shop in
the Rue de la Paix sells all the Cartier
lines (see p320).

Rue de Paradis
Here you can buy porcelain and
crystal at reduced prices at the
company showrooms. Look out
for La Cristallerie Paradis, which
stocks Baccarat and Bernardaud
(see pp322, 324).

Galerie Vivienne
This lovely
Neo-Classical
shopping arcade
with mosaics
features fashion
and home
furnishings
Opéra Quarter Kenzo (see p221).

Tuileries
Quarter Beaubourg and
Les Halles

The Marais
R iver S eine

St-Germain-
des-Prés Ile de la
Cité
Ile
St-Louis

Latin Quarter

Rue des Francs-Bourgeois
Stylish fashion stores
Luxembourg (see pp316, 319) line this
Quarter
thoroughfare in the Marais.
Jardin des
Montparnasse Plantes Quarter
Marché aux Puces de
la Porte de Vanves

1
Rue Mouffetard
The market sells
cheeses and other Forum des Halles
quality foods This modern subterranean mall has
(see p331). many shops (see p115).




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316  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Clothes and Accessories

For many people, Paris is synonymous with fashion, and to look out for are Zadig &
Parisian style is the ultimate in chic. More than anywhere Voltaire, which has made its
else in the world, women in Paris seem to be in tune with mark with chic casual basics
current trends. Though generally less fashion conscious, such as everyday T-shirts and
cashmere jumpers; and Vanessa
Parisian men have a keen sense of style, and mix and match Bruno, whose clothes are
patterns and colours with élan. Top designer boutiques are popular with all ages for their
concentrated around the Champs-Elysées, on streets such as classic, high-quality designs.
Avenue Montaigne, Rue Francois-1er and Rue du Faubourg- The northeast of the city,
St-Honoré, and also in St-Germain. High-end labels abound around the Marais and Bastille,
is another great area for clothes
on Rue Etienne and around Place Sainte-Victoire. Further east, shopping, with a mix of
in the Marais, Canal St-Martin and Bastille areas, as well as established and more cutting-
in South Pigalle and Montmartre, there are lots of trendy, edge designers. Rue des Francs-
independent fashion labels. High-street fashion tends Bourgeois is full of elegant
to be concentrated in Les Halles and surrounding streets. boutiques, such as Autour du
Monde, selling young, colourful
clothes and canvas sneakers by
Department and concept store Centre French designer Bensimon,
Concept Stores
Commercial, concerned while the quieter roads to the
A good place to start a clothes- with the environment and north, such as Rue Charlot and
shopping spree in Paris is one fair trade, and stocking eco- Rue de Poitou, harbour some of
of the city’s grand department friendly French designers such the city’s most exciting young
stores (see p313). Galeries as Valentine Gauthier, plus a fashion designers. Yves
Lafayette has an excellent decent selection of lesser- Andrieux et Vincent Jalbert
range of high-end fashion, known men's labels. create elegant jackets and skirts
nearly a whole floor of lingerie, from such unlikely fabrics as
and another of shoes, while Parisian Chic recycled 1950s army uniforms,
Printemps is particularly strong while Swildens is worth seeking
on men’s fashion, with seven There are many wonderful out for feminine clothes with a
floors of clothes and accessories. shops where you can achieve nod to vintage style. La Fausse
Less upmarket, but carrying a the Parisian look without Boutique stocks young
wide range of women’s and spending over the odds. French designers.
men’s fashion, is BHV Marais. Boulevard St-Germain and Rue Keller, in the Bastille, also
At the budget end is the Rue du Jour/Rue Etienne Marcel has a cluster of independent
popular discount department are good hunting grounds for designers, such as Gaëlle Barré
store Tati, which includes French labels. For many, Agnès B, and Anne Willi, while trendy
Catherine Deneuve among its on Rue du Jour, epitomizes Rue de Charonne is home to
customers. Parisian chic – her clothes are Sessùn, where Emma François
Also handy for a one-stop understated and timeless, and creates casual-chic clothes from
shop are the city’s ever-growing not overly expensive. Other quality fabrics. A few blocks
concept stores. One of the best labels nearby include Paris- down is Isabel Marant (and
known is Colette, which based B&ash, creating fresh, her more affordable line, Etoile),
combines high fashion, design modern chunky knits, wool internationally renowned for
and hip accessories. Spree, in dresses and bold-coloured her flattering, understated
Montmartre, mixes fashion, art silk tops; and Claudie Pierlot, womenswear. The shops along
and design, while Merci, set in whose designs sport an the Canal St-Martin reflect the
a huge old wallpaper factory, elegant, slightly gamine look. bohemian-bourgeois character
sells an attractive range of Comptoir des Cotonniers is of its residents; one that stands
women’s clothing, alongside very popular for its well-cut out above all others is Antoine
homewares, jewellery and basics, while a little more daring et Lili, with its three candy-
second-hand books; the clothes are the designs by Paul & Joe coloured shopfronts. It is
are not especially cheap, but all for both men and women; known for its bright, cheerful
profits go to charity. The Rue Paul & Joe Sister caters to a clothes with an ethnic twist
Sévigné branch of L’Eclaireur younger, more contemporary for women and children.
is vaunted as an “interactive look. With many branches Also good for more alternative
installation”; clothes, mostly by around the city, Sandro, fashions is the area at the foot of
top fashion designers such as founded by Parisian Evelyne Montmarte and South Pigalle.
Balenciaga and Jean Rousseau, Chétrite, is a good bet for well- Streets worth checking out for
are hidden behind screens and cut staples, as well as floaty offbeat designers are rues des
sliding panels. Just off the trendy dresses and casual men’s Martyrs, des Trois Frères, de la
Canal St-Martin lies pioneering clothes. Other reliable brands Vieuville and Houdon.




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SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  317

Couture and High-End are Giorgio Armani, Pierre “stock” shops sell end-of-line
Designer Fashion
Cardin, Kenzo, Lanvin (also and last season’s collections
Paris is the home of haute good for accessories) and Saint- at substantial reductions; try,
couture. Original couture Laurent. On the Left Bank, for example, Le Mouton à Cinq
garments are beautiful Michel Axel is known for ties Pattes or Défilé de Marques.
one-off creations, and their and elegant suits. APC, Paul If you’re planning to go to
astronomical prices put them Smith and Sandro are rather Disneyland, you could also
beyond the reach of all but a more contemporary, and check out La Vallée discount
few people with immensely Loft Design By is chic without shopping outlet, boasting more
deep pockets. However, haute being overtly trendy. than 100 luxury brands, both
couture is also the lifeblood of Independent and cutting- French and international.
the fashion industry, providing edge men’s designers abound
inspiration for the mass market. in the Marais. French Trotters
Most couture houses make stocks covetable own-brand Children’s Clothes
prêt-à-porter as well – ready- Breton shirts, as well as more The city has a delightful range
to-wear clothes fitted on a unusual French labels, such of stores where you can buy
standard model. They’re still as Commune de Paris. A all you need to transform your
not cheap, but they give you stylishly revamped pharmacy children into little trendy
some of the elegance and sets the tone for Christophe Parisians. A concentration
creativity of a couture designer Lemaire’s elegant coats and of children’s clothes shops
at a fraction of the cost. everyday wear, while Nodus can be found on Rue Vavin,
The highest concentration of has an unbeatable range of in St-Germain, and the big
couture houses is on the Right classic and fashion shirts and department stores also stock
Bank. Most flagship stores are ties. At Printemps Homme a wide range. Popular brands
on or near Rue du Faubourg- you’ll find all you need to such as Jacadi and Du Pareil
St-Honoré and the classier look fashionable. au Même sell colourful clothes
Avenue Montaigne: Christian at reasonable prices. The more
Dior, Pierre Cardin, Chanel, Vintage, Second-hand upmarket Tartine et Chocolat
Gianni Versace, Givenchy and offers delectable classics with
Nina Ricci are all here. Hermès and Discount Stores a contemporary twist, while
offers timeless chic, while Lanvin, There are some wonderful Bonpoint stocks adorably chic
the oldest fashion house still in shops to plunder for a retro clothing for mini-Parisians. Petit
existence, embodies Parisian look. The best of the bunch is Bateau is coveted as much by
elegance. Karl Lagerfeld has Didier Ludot, which elegantly adults as it is by children.
a shop where the latest displays an Aladdin’s cave of Kids even have their own
creations from his own line are vintage haute couture. From concept store in Bonton, which
exhibited. Designers such as Courrèges dresses to excellent- stocks baby toiletries, stylish
Kenzo cluster on Place des condition Chanel suits, this is clothing, toys and furniture
Victoires and Rue St-Etienne the place for top-of-the-range for children’s rooms. Parisian
Marcel. retro. The Marais has a good teenagers flock to Citadium,
St-Germain, especially Rue number of less expensive a department store near
du Cherche Midi, also has a vintage shops; try Free “P” Star Printemps, for its wide range
large concentration of high-end for 1970s floral dresses and of streetwear and trainers.
designer shops. Here you’ll find Mamz’Elle Swing for 1950s For little feet, Froment-
Sonia Rykiel, famous for her fashions. For great-condition Leroyer probably offers the
stripy skinny ribs, and her less second-hand wear of more best all-round classics. Six
expensive offshoot, Sonia by recent vintages, Violette & Pieds Trois Pouces has a vast
Sonia Rykiel. Barbara Bui is Léonie stocks both designer choice of styles.
popular for her soft, feminine and high-street labels, while
clothes, while Saint-Laurent Kiliwatch specializes in Jewellery
and Jil Sander are hard to beat streetwear and jeans.
for their exquisite tailoring. Another way to get your For seriously expensive
For a good collection of hands on recent designer jewellery, head to Rue de
designerwear in one shop, fashion is to head for one of la Paix and Place Vendôme,
try Kabuki Femme (there’s a the many consignment stores where top jewellers such as
men’s branch down the street). (dépôt-vente) in the city. Chic Boucheron, Mauboussin,
Parisians discard their outfits Poiray and Cartier cluster.
with the seasons, so it is very Also here are Dinh Van, which
Menswear easy to pick up some quality has some quirky pieces, and
In addition to the outlets items that are normally in top Mikimoto, a must for pearls.
mentioned above, Paris has condition from places such as On nearby Rue de Castiglione,
many excellent menswear Réciproque in Passy or Dépôt- H Stern has some innovative
shops. At the designer end of Vente de Buci-Bourbon. In designs that feature semi-
the scale, on the Right Bank, addition, a number of dedicated precious and precious stones.




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318  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


For a range of more unusual of the scale, although Goyard Peto creates a wonderful range
jewellery and accessories, try comes close. Mid-range bags of men’s straw hats, fedoras
the Swarovski Boutique. Also from the Italian brand Furla are and trilbies in fabrics such as
of note is Marie-Hélène de a great compromise, as are the velour and fur. Around since
Taillac, whose superbly elegant French-made bags from Cerise 1875, Grevi makes beautiful
creations have a contemporary and Louis. Fabric bags from hats for women and children.
edge and are much coveted Jamin Puech, Vanessa Bruno
by fashionistas. or Hervé Chapelier feature in Lingerie and Swimwear
At a more affordable level, every chic Parisian’s closet. Lili
Delphine Pariente makes Cabas designs chic leather bags For a delightful selection of
delicate gold- and silver-plated in a range of styles at prices that beautiful, modern lingerie,
jewellery and recycles vintage won’t break the bank; the store go to Fifi Chachnil. La Boîte
pieces; while Monsieur – in the 10th arrondissement also à Bas sells fine French stockings,
actually a woman, Nadia Azoug – stocks accessories by other Princesse Tam Tam offers
creates fine handmade French designers, such as Ma trendy quality items at
jewellery, each piece unique, Poésie wool scarves and Anne reasonable prices, and divine
in her Marais atelier-boutique. Thomas jewellery. For a great designer underwear can be
Over on the Canal St-Martin, range of shoes, accessories found at cult store Sabbia Rosa.
Médecine Douce’s delicate gold and bags at reasonable prices, The ultimate in magnificent
bracelets and necklaces have an Lollipops boutiques can be Parisian lingerie can be bought
understated elegance, while found across Paris. off the peg or made to order
Viveka Bergström favours bold at Cadolle, the store that
and striking designs made from invented the bra. Aubade,
raw materials such as glass. Hats known for its sophisticated
Also worth a visit is Paulie and One of Paris’s favourite milliners and sensual lingerie, is a
Me, which describes itself as an is Marie Mercié, known for her trusted brand among French
“incubation store” for young glamorous and quirky straw, women. Erès is the place to
designers; as well as innovative fur and felt hats, while Anthony shop for elegant swimwear.
jewellery, you’ll find one-off
accessories and fashion for Size Chart
both men and women.
For Australian sizes, follow the British and American conversions.
Children’s clothing
Shoes, Bags and Belts French 2–3 4–5 6–7 8–9 10–11 12 14 14+ (years)
Fair Trade trainers (made from British 2–3 4–5 6–7 8–9 10–11 12 14 14+ (years)
organic cotton and natural American 2–3 4–5 6–6x 7–8 10–11 12 14 16 (size)
Amazonian rubber) by Veja can Children’s shoes
be found in Le Bon Marché. French 24 25½ 27 28 29 30 32 33 34
Go to Repetto for cult pumps in British 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 1 2
a host of colours, or to Sidonie American 7½ 8½ 9½ 10½ 11½ 12½ 13½ 1½ 2½
Larizzi, who will make up shoes Women’s dresses, coats and skirts
from one of numerous leather French 34 36 38 40 42 44 46
swatches. Current favourites British 6 8 4 10 12 14 16 18
10
2
6
8
12
14
American
with the fashion set include
Jérôme Dreyfuss and Robert Women’s blouses and sweaters
Clergerie. Christian Louboutin French 81 84 87 90 93 96 99 (cms)
31
British
40 42 (inches)
34
36
38
32
and Rodolphe Ménudier are American 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 (size)
mainstays for sexy stilettos.
Carel stocks smart basics, Women’s shoes
Cosmo Paris and Vivaldi sell French 36 37 38 39 40 41 8
British
3
6
4
5
7
trendy models, and Jonak American 5 6 7 8 9 10
is a must for good imitations
of designer footwear. Bowen Men’s suits
has a selection of traditional French 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
40
38
44
46
48
British
36
34
42
men’s shoes, and Berluti is American 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
the last word in elegance
for many Parisian men. Men’s shirts 36 38 39 41 42 43 44 45
French
Beautifully made leather British 14 15 15½ 16 16½ 17 17½ 18
goods can be found at Gucci, American 14 15 15½ 16 16½ 17 17½ 18
Longchamp and Hermès, who Men’s shoes
still make bespoke items in their French 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46
Paris workshops. For handbags, British 6 7 7½ 8 9 10 11 12
nothing beats Chanel or American 7 7½ 8 8½ 9½ 10½ 11 11½
Christian Dior at the top end
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SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  319


DIRECTORY
Department and Antoine et Lili Sandro Tel 01 47 42 88 02.
Concept Stores 95 Quai de Valmy 42 Rue Etienne Marcel ∑ versace.com
75010. Map 8 D4. 75002.
BHV Marais Map 12 F1. Givenchy
52–64 Rue de Rivoli Tel 01 40 37 41 55. Tel 01 44 82 58 87. 28 Rue du Faubourg-
75004. Map 13 B3. ∑ antoineetlili.com ∑ sandro-paris.com St-Honoré 75008.
Tel 09 77 40 14 00. One of several branches. One of several branches. Map 5 C5.
∑ bhv.fr Autour du Monde Tel 01 42 68 31 00.
∑ givenchy.com
Centre Commercial 12 Rue des Francs Sessùn One of several branches.
34 Rue de Charonne
2 Rue de Marseille Bourgeois 75003. 75011. Map 14 F4.
75010. Map 8 D4. Map 14 D3. Tel 01 48 06 55 66. Hermès
Tel 01 42 02 26 08. Tel 01 42 77 16 18. ∑ sessun.com 24 Rue du Faubourg-
∑ centrecommercial.cc ∑ bensimon.com St-Honoré 75008.
Map 5 C5.
Colette One of several branches. Swildens Tel 01 40 17 46 00.
16 Rue de Turenne
213 Rue St-Honoré 75001. B&ash 75004. Map 14 D3. ∑ hermes.com
Map 12 D1. Tel 01 42 71 12 20. One of several branches.
Tel 01 55 35 33 90. 21 Rue Etienne Marcel ∑ swildens.fr
∑ colette.fr 75001. Map 13 A1. Jil Sander
Tel 01 42 33 77 92. One of several branches. 56 Ave Montaigne
L’Eclaireur ∑ ba-sh.com Vanessa Bruno 75008. Map 10 F1.
40 Rue de Sévigné 25 Rue St-Sulpice Tel 01 44 95 06 70.
75003. Map 14 D3. Claudie Pierlot 75006. Map 12 E4. ∑ jilsander.com
Tel 01 48 87 10 22. 49 Rue Etienne Marcel Tel 01 43 54 41 04.
∑ leclaireur.com 75001. Map 13 A1. ∑ vanessabruno.com Kabuki Femme
One of several branches. Tel 01 42 33 65 88. 25 Rue Etienne Marcel
75001. Map 13 A1.
Galeries Lafayette ∑ claudiepierlot.com Yves Andrieux et Tel 01 40 26 43 65.
Vincent Jalbert
40 Blvd Haussmann One of several branches. 55 Rue Charlot 75003.
75009. Map 6 E4. Comptoir des Map 14 D1. Karl Lagerfeld
Tel 01 42 82 34 56. Cotonniers Tel 01 42 71 19 54. 194 Blvd St-Germain
One of two branches. ∑ vincentjalbert.com 75006. Map 12 D4.
∑ galerieslafayette.com 33 Rue des Francs Tel 01 42 22 74 99.
Bourgeois 75004. Zadig et Voltaire ∑ karl.com
Merci Map 13 C3. 42 Rue du Faubourg-St-
111 Blvd Beaumarchais Tel 01 42 76 95 33. Honoré 75008. Map 5 C5. Kenzo
75003. Map 14 E2. ∑ comptoirdes Tel 01 47 42 32 81. 3 Pl des Victoires 75001.
Tel 01 42 77 00 33. One of several branches. Map 12 F1.
∑ merci-merci.com cotonniers.com Tel 01 40 39 72 03.
One of several branches. ∑ zadig-et-voltaire. ∑ kenzo.com
Printemps com One of several branches.
64 Blvd Haussmann La Fausse Boutique
75009. Map 6 D4. 19 Rue des Ecouffes Couture and Lanvin
Tel 01 42 82 50 00. 75004. Map 13 C3. High-End 15 Rue du Faubourg-
∑ printemps.com Tel 01 73 74 90 78. Designer Fashion St-Honoré 75008.
Map 5 C5.
Spree ∑ lafausseboutique. Barbara Bui Tel 01 44 71 31 25.
16 Rue de La Vieuville com 50 Ave Montaigne 75008. ∑ lanvin.com
75018. Map 6 F1. Gaëlle Barré Map 10 F1. One of several branches.
Tel 01 42 23 41 40. 17 Rue Keller 75011. Tel 01 42 66 05 87.
∑ spree.fr ∑ barbarabui.com Nina Ricci
Map 14 F4. 39 Ave Montaigne 75008.
Tati Tel 01 43 14 63 02. One of several branches. Map 10 F1.
174 Rue du Temple ∑ gaellebarre.com Chanel Tel 01 83 97 72 12.
75003. Map 14 D1. 42 & 51 Ave Montaigne ∑ ninaricci.fr
01 42 71 41 77. ∑ tati.fr Isabel Marant 75008. Map 5 A5.
16 Rue de Charonne Tel 01 44 50 73 00. Pierre Cardin
Parisian Chic 75011. Map 14 F4. ∑ chanel.com 59 Rue du Faubourg-St-
Tel 01 49 29 71 55. One of several branches. Honoré 75008.
Agnès B ∑ isabelmarant.com Map 5 B5.
6 Rue du Jour 75001. Christian Dior Tel 01 42 66 92 25.
Map 13 A1. Tel 01 45 08 Paul & Joe 30 Ave Montaigne 75008. ∑ pierrecardin.com
56 56. ∑ agnesb.com 64–66 Rue des Saints Map 10 F1. Saint-Laurent
One of several branches. Pères 75007. Tel 01 40 73 73 73. 38 Rue du Faubourg-
Anne Willi Map 12 D4. ∑ dior.com St-Honoré 75008.
13 Rue Keller 75011. Map Tel 01 42 22 47 01. Gianni Versace Map 5 C5. Tel 01 42 65 74
14 F4. Tel 01 48 06 74 06. ∑ paulandjoe.com 45 Ave Montaigne 75008. 59. ∑ ysl.com
∑ annewilli.com One of several branches. Map 10 F1. One of several branches.
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320  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


DIRECTORY
Sonia Rykiel Tel 01 42 77 07 96. Mamz’Elle Swing Jacadi
175 Blvd St-Germain ∑ nodus.fr 35 Rue du Roi de Sicile 17 Rue Tronchet
75006. One of several branches. 75004. Map 13 C3. 75008. Map 5 C5.
Map 12 D4. Paul Smith Tel 01 48 87 04 06. Tel 01 42 65 84 98.
Tel 01 49 54 60 60. 22 Blvd Raspail 75007. ∑ mamzelleswing.com ∑ jacadi.fr
∑ soniarykiel.com Map 12 D4. Le Mouton à One of several branches.
One of several branches. Tel 01 53 63 08 74. Cinq Pattes Petit Bateau
Sonia by Sonia Rykiel ∑ paulsmith.co.uk 8/18 Rue St-Placide 116 Ave des Champs-
6 Rue de Grenelle 75006. Pierre Cardin 75006. Map 11 C5. Elysées 75008. Map 4 E4.
Map 11 B3. (See p319). Tel 01 45 48 86 26. Tel 01 40 74 02 03.
Tel 01 49 54 61 00. ∑ moutonacinqpattes ∑ petit-bateau.com
∑ soniaby.com Printemps Homme paris.com One of several branches.
64 Blvd Haussmann One of several branches. Six Pieds Trois Pouces
Menswear 75009. Map 5 A4. 78 Ave de Wagram
Tel 01 42 82 50 00. Réciproque
APC ∑ printemps.com 89-92-95 & 101 Rue de la 75017. Map 4 E2.
Tel 01 46 22 81 64.
38 Rue Madame 75006. Saint-Laurent Pompe 75016. Map 9 A1. ∑ sixpiedstroispouces.
Map 12 E5. 6 Pl St-Sulpice 75006. Tel 01 47 04 30 28.
Tel 01 42 22 12 77. Map 12 D4. ∑ reciproque.fr com
∑ apc.fr Tel 01 43 29 43 00. La Vallée One of several branches.
One of several branches. 3 Cours de la Garonne, Tartine et Chocolat
∑ ysl.com
Christophe Lemaire Sandro 77700 Seris. 84 Rue du Faubourg-St-
Honoré 75008. Map 5 B5.
28 Rue de Poitou 75003. 30 Pl du Marché St- Tel 01 60 42 35 00. Tel 01 45 62 44 04.
∑ lavalleevillage.com
Map 14 D2. Honoré 75001. ∑ tartine-et-chocolat.fr
Tel 01 44 78 00 09. Map 12 E1. Violette & Léonie
∑ lemaire.fr Tel 01 58 62 49 00. 114 Rue de Turenne Jewellery
French Trotters ∑ sandro-paris.com 75003.
128 Rue Vieille du Temple Map 14 D2. Boucheron
75003. Vintage, Second- Tel 01 44 59 87 35. 26 Pl Vendôme 75001.
Map 13 C3. Hand and ∑ violettetleonie.com Map 6 D5. Tel 01 42 61 58
Tel 01 44 61 00 14. Discount Stores Children’s Clothes 16. ∑ boucheron.com
∑ frenchtrotters.fr One of several branches.
Défilé de Marques
Giorgio Armani 171 Rue de Grenelle Bonpoint Cartier
18 Ave Montaigne 75008. 75007. 320 Rue St-Honoré 13 Rue de la Paix 75002.
Map 10 F1. Map 10 F3. 75001. Map 13 A2. Map 6 D5. Tel 01 58 18 23
Tel 01 42 61 55 09. Tel 01 45 55 63 47. Tel 01 49 27 94 82. 00. ∑ cartier.fr
∑ armani.com ∑ defiledemarques. ∑ bonpoint.com One of several branches.
com One of several branches. Delphine Pariente
Kenzo
3 Pl des Victoires 75001. Depôt-Vente de Bonton 19 Rue de Turenne 75003.
Map 12 F1. Buci-Bourbon 82 Rue de Grenelle Map 14 D3.
Tel 01 40 39 72 03. 4 Rue de Bourbon-le- 75007. Map 10 F3. Tel 01 42 78 18 87.
∑ delphinepariente.fr
∑ kenzo.com Château 75006. Tel 01 44 39 09 20.
One of several branches. Map 12 E4. ∑ bonton.fr Dinh Van
Tel 01 46 34 28 28. One of several branches.
Lanvin ∑ thevintedge.com 16 Rue de la Paix 75002.
(See p319). Citadium Map 6 D5.
Didier Ludot 56 Rue de Caumartin Tel 01 42 61 74 49.
Loft Design By 24 Galerie Montpensier 75009. Map 6 D4. ∑ dinhvan.com
18 Ave Franklin 75001. Map 12 E1. Tel 01 55 31 74 00. One of several branches.
Roosevelt 75008. Tel 01 42 96 06 56. ∑ citadium.com
Map 5 A5. ∑ didierludot.fr H Stern
Tel 01 45 61 12 37. Du Pareil au Même Westin Hotel, 3 Rue
∑ loftdesignby.com Free “P” Star 1 Rue St-Denis 75001. Castiglione 75001. Map
One of several branches. 61 Rue de la Verrerie Map 13 B3. 12 D1. Tel 01 42 60 22 27.
75004. Map 13 B3. Tel 01 42 36 07 57. ∑ hstern.net
Michel Axel Tel 01 42 78 00 76. ∑ dpam.fr One of several branches.
44 Rue du Dragon 75006. ∑ freepstar.com One of several branches. Marie-Hélène
Map 12 D4. One of several branches. Froment-Leroyer de Taillac
Tel 01 42 84 13 86. Kiliwatch 7 Rue Vavin 75006. 8 Rue de Tournon 75006.
∑ michelaxel.com
64 Rue Tiquetonne 75002. Map 16 E1. Map 12 E5.
Nodus Map 13 A1. Tel 01 43 54 33 15. Tel 01 44 27 07 07.
22 Rue Vieille du Temple Tel 01 42 21 17 37. ∑ froment-leroyer.fr ∑ mariehelenede
75004. Map 13 C3. ∑ kiliwatch.paris One of several branches. taillac.com
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SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  321


DIRECTORY
Mauboussin Map 4 F5. Tel 01 40 22 08 32. Hats
15 Rue de la Paix 75001. Tel 01 47 20 45 90. ∑ jamin-puech.com
Map 6 D5. ∑ bowen.fr Jérôme Dreyfuss Anthony Peto
Tel 01 80 18 15 90. Carel 1 Rue Jacob 75006. 56 Rue Tiquetonne 75002.
∑ mauboussin.fr Map 13 A1.
2 Rue Tronchet 75008. Map 12 E4. Tel 01 40 26 60 68.
Médecine Douce Map 6 D4. Tel 01 43 66 21 Tel 01 43 54 70 93. ∑ anthonypeto.com
10 Rue de Marseille 58. ∑ carel.fr ∑ jerome-dreyfuss.
75010. Map 8 D4. One of several branches. com Grevi
Tel 01 82 83 11 53. Cerise and Louis Jonak 1 Pl Alphonse-
∑ bijouxmedecine 16 Rue du Cherche-Midi 70 Rue de Rennes Deville 75006.
douce.com Map 14 D3.
75006. Map 12 D4. 75006. Map 16 D1.
Mikimoto Tel 01 42 74 20 20. Tel 01 45 48 27 11. Tel 01 42 22 05 69.
∑ grevi.com
8 Pl Vendôme 75001. Chanel ∑ jonak.fr
Map 6 D5. 42 & 51 Ave Montaigne One of several branches. Marie Mercié
Tel 01 42 60 33 55. 75008. Map 5 A5. 23 Rue St-Sulpice 75006.
∑ mikimoto.fr Lili Cabas Map 12 E4.
Tel 01 44 50 73 00. 24 Rue des Petites
Monsieur ∑ chanel.com Ecuries 75010. Tel 01 43 26 45 83.
53 Rue Charlot 75003. One of several branches. Map 7 B4. ∑ mariemercie.com
Map 14 D2. Christian Dior Tel 09 54 40 00 16.
Tel 01 42 71 12 65. 30 Ave Montaigne 75008. ∑ lilicabas.com Lingerie and
∑ monsieur-paris.com Swimwear
Map 10 F1. Tel 01 40 73 Lollipops
Paulie and Me 73 73. ∑ dior.com 326 Rue de Vaugirard Aubade
68 Rue Jean Jacques 75015. 22 Rue du Vieux
Rousseau 75001. Christian Louboutin Tel 01 42 50 79 19. Colombier 75006.
Map 12 F2. 38–40 Rue de Grenelle ∑ lollipopsparis.fr Map 12 D4.
Tel 06 85 94 04 34. 75007. Map 10 F3. Tel 01 45 48 16 62.
∑ paulieandme.fr Tel 0800 94 58 04. Longchamp ∑ aubade.fr
∑ eu.christian 21 Rue du Vieux
Poiray louboutin.com Colombier 75006. La Boîte à Bas
17 Rue de la Paix 75002. One of two branches. Map 12 D4. 27 Rue Boissy-d’Anglas
Map 6 D5. Tel 01 42 22 74 75. 75008. Map 5 C5.
Tel 01 40 41 94 91. Cosmo Paris ∑ longchamp.com Tel 01 42 66 26 85.
∑ poiray.com 211 Rue St-Honoré 75001.
Map 5 C5. Repetto Cadolle
Swarovski Boutique Tel 01 49 27 07 31. 22 Rue de la Paix 4 Rue Cambon 75001.
146 Ave des Champs- 75002. Map 6 D5. Map 6 D5.
Elysées 75008. Furla Tel 01 44 71 83 12. Tel 01 42 60 94 22.
Map 4 E4. 281 Rue St-Honoré 75008. One of several branches. ∑ cadolle.fr
Tel 01 45 61 13 80. Map 5 C5. Tel 01 42 97 50 ∑ repetto.fr
∑ swarovski.com 47. ∑ furla.com Erès
One of several branches. Robert Clergerie 2 Rue Tronchet 75008.
Viveka Bergström 5 Rue du Cherche-Midi Map 5 C5.
23 Rue de la Grange aux Goyard 75006.
Belles 75010. 233 Rue St-Honoré 75001. Map 12 D4. Tel 01 47 42 28 82.
∑ eresparis.com
Map 8 D4. Map 5 C5. Tel 01 45 48 75 47.
Tel 01 40 03 04 92. Tel 01 42 60 57 04. ∑ robertclergerie.com One of several branches.
∑ viveka-bergstrom. ∑ goyard.com Fifi Chachnil
blogspot.co.uk Gucci Rodolphe Ménudier 68 Rue Jean-Jacques
2 Rue du Faubourg-St- 14 Rue de Castiglione Rousseau 75001.
Shoes, Bags Honoré 75008. 75001. Map 12 D1. Map 12 F2.
and Belts Map 5 C5. Tel 01 44 94 14 Tel 06 07 02 81 91. Tel 01 42 21 19 93.
70. ∑ gucci.com ∑ rodolphemenudier. ∑ fifichachnil.com
Berluti com
26 Rue Marbeuf 75008. Hermès Princesse Tam Tam
Map 4 F5. (See p319). Sidonie Larizzi 5 Rue Montmartre 75001.
Tel 01 53 93 97 97. Hervé Chapelier 15 Rue Clément Marot Map 13 A1.
∑ berluti.com 75008. Map 4 F5.
1 bis Rue du Vieux- Tel 01 40 70 00 24. Tel 01 45 08 50 69.
Le Bon Marché Colombier 75006. ∑ princessetamtam.
24 Rue de Sèvres 75007. Map 12 D4. Vanessa Bruno com
Map 11 C5. Tel 01 44 07 06 50. (See p319). One of several branches.
Tel 01 44 39 80 00. ∑ hervechapelier.com Vivaldi Sabbia Rosa
∑ lebonmarche.com
Jamin Puech 38 Rue de Rivoli 75001. 73 Rue des Sts-Pères
Bowen 61 Rue de Hauteville Map 13 A2. 75006. Map 12 D4.
12 Rue Marbeuf 75008. 75010. Map 7 B4. Tel 01 44 54 08 56. Tel 01 45 48 88 37.
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322  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Gifts and Souvenirs

Paris has a wealth of stylish gifts and typical souvenirs, from most elegant tableware, found
designer accessories and perfume to French foods and Eiffel in Paris’s chic shops. If you
Tower paperweights. Shops on the Rue de Rivoli and around are wary of loading up your
major tourist attractions such as Notre-Dame or Sacré-Coeur holdall with breakable pieces,
many shops will arrange to
offer a range of cheap holiday trinkets. Les Drapeaux de ship crockery overseas. Luxury
France sells historic uniformed and costumed figurines. household goods can be found
For upscale mementos, try quality reproductions of artwork on the Rue Royale, where many
and jewellery in museum boutiques – the Musée du Louvre, of the best shops are located.
Musée d’Orsay, Les Arts Décoratifs or Musée Carnavalet. They sell items such as rustic
china and repro duction and
modern silver ware. Lalique’s Art
Gifts Parfums Caron also has many Nouveau and Art Deco glass
Printemps has excellent own- scents created over 100 years sculptures are collected all over
brand accessories, espe cially ago, which are unavailable the world. Impeccable silverware,
ladies’ handbags. The luxury elsewhere, so this is the place to including fine photograph
floor is ideal for window- find exclusive presents that you frames and even chopsticks,
shopping or high-end purchases will almost certainly decide to comes from Christofle.
such as Tiffany jewellery or keep for yourself. Beautifully For a great variety of porcelain
Cartier watches. It also stocks packaged perfumes made from and crystal, try La Cristallerie
small, reasonably priced items. natural essences are available Paradis, which stocks Baccarat,
For those wanting to take from Annick Goutal. Guerlain Daum and Limoges crystal, or
home gastronomic tasters, has the ultimate in beauty care, go to Baccarat itself. Baccarat
the famed food hall at Le Bon while the elegant shops of also has a boutique on the
Marché, La Grande Epicerie, L’Artisan Parfumeur specialize Place de la Madeleine. The
offers anything and everything in exquisitely packaged scents interior designer Pierre Frey
you might need for a gourmet that evoke specific memories. has a showroom displaying
feast or quick snack. They have also reissued fabrics which have been
Galeries Lafayette now favourites from the past, made into a fabulous array
boasts the world’s biggest including perfume made to of cushions, bedspreads and
lingerie department. exactly the same formula as tablecloths. Excellent quality
one that was worn at the court bed linen can also be found
of Versailles. Famed perfume- at Yves Delorme.
Perfume and Cosmetics
maker Fragonard sells an array Eiffel Tower cheese graters,
Many shops advertise of scents, soaps and candles porcelain doll umbrellas and
discounted perfume and from the South of France. dog-shaped pie-cutters add
cosmetics. Some, like Buly 1803, Frédéric Malle is another just the right amount of kitsch
even offer duty-free perfume to big name in top-of-the-range to any gift from design shop
shoppers from outside the EU, scent. Exclusive perfumes can Pylones. La Chaise Longue has
with discounts on the marked also be found in the beautiful a selection of well-designed
prices when you show your surroundings of the gardens of objets, along with fun gift ideas.
passport. The Sephora chain the Palais-Royal at Serge Lutens. Fleux boutique in the Marais
has a big selection, or try the Lutens, the company’s creative has quirky, artsy home goods.
department stores for a range director and a renowned Storie Shop and Muskhane
of designers’ perfumes. In parfumier, creates exquisite and stock hip and ethnic accessories
particular, the beauty depart- exotic scents which can only be for funky flats. The extensive
ment at Printemps (see p313) is bought in this particular store. interior design store at Galeries
one of Europe’s biggest, with Paris is also home to several Lafayette (see p313) has every-
one of the world’s largest haute cosmetics designers. One thing a proud homeowner
perfume selections. It stocks of the most renowned is Terry could need, from fancy mops to
many beauty brands that are de Gunzberg, whose store By cutting-edge three-piece suites.
hard to find elsewhere. Terry stocks fantastic products. Sentou stores are full of chic
If you fancy stepping back Personalize your gift by having designer pieces for Parisian
in time, Detaille 1905 is the a message inscribed on the living. Sentou Raspail, on the Left
place for you. This old-fashioned sleek, silver packaging. Bank, offers the store’s complete
perfumery filled to the brim range while Sentou Marais
with fragrant goodies focuses on lighting and furniture.
personifies Belle Epoque style Household Goods Kitchen equipment that can’t
and charm. The shop’s own Though certain items are be beaten, including copper
range of six main fragrances obviously rather delicate to pans, comes from E Dehillerin.
for women and for men are still carry home, it is difficult to A must-have item in many
made from original recipes. ignore some of the world’s Parisian homes is a scented




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SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  323


candle from Diptyque. Figuier is books. L’Emile is a small condition. Go to A L’Olivier in
their most popular fragrance. children’s bookshop stocking the Rue de Rivoli for a
The basement at BHV (see p313) both French and English titles. wonderful selection of exotic
is full of all sorts of tools and French-language bookshops oils and vinegar. Or, if honey is
equipment for doing up your include La Hune, specializing in your favourite condiment, try
house and sprucing up the art, design, architecture, La Maison du Miel, where
garden. photography, fashion and you can buy all sorts of fine
cinema; Gibert Joseph, selling honeys, including varieties
general and educational books; made from lavender and
Books, Magazines and Le Divan, which has social acacia flowers. You can also
and Newspapers science, psycho logy, literature buy refreshing beeswax soap
Many English and American and poetry sections. The and a variety of candles here.
publications can be found at heritage shop at the Hôtel de Mariage Frères has become
large magazine stands or at Bethune-Sully specializes in a cult favourite for its 350
some of the bookshops listed. books on the history of Paris varieties of tea; it also sells
If French is no obstacle, the and France in general, in both a number of teapots and its
weeklies Pariscope, L’Officiel French and English. I Love My tea shop serves up many
des Spectacles and Télérama’s Blender on Rue du Temple is tempting treats (see p310).
Paris supplement Sortir have dedicated to English-language Couture fabrics can be
the most comprehensive authors and sells wonderful gifts. purchased from a range at
listings for the city. Wolff et Descourtis. For an
The International New York Flowers unusual gift of traditional
Times is published in Paris and French card games or tarot
contains good American news Some Parisian florists, such as cards, go to Jeux Descartes.
coverage. The Paris Voice Pascal Mutel, are very well La Grande Recré is a chain
webzine and the bi-weekly known, so be sure to buy one of of toyshops, while the name
FUSAC (France–USA Contacts their signature vases. Monceau Armorial is synonymous with
small ads magazine) are also Fleurs offers a good selection high-quality stationery and
published in English. at reasonable prices; Jacques paper products. Calligrane
Some of the large depart- Semer is the place to go to in sells a tempting range of
ment stores have a book section Montmartre. (See also Specialist high-quality desk accessories
(see Department Stores p313). Shops, below). Stunning silk and paper products.
There is a large branch of flowers can be found at Sia, a Hidden away down an
WHSmith, and Galignani was chic store that brims over with atmospheric passage, Pep’s
the first English bookshop to beautiful artifical blooms. repairs all broken umbrellas
be established in Europe in and parasols in France’s only
1801. The San Francisco Book brolly hospital.
Company offers English- Specialist Shops Finally, for the ultimate
language books at good prices For cigars, A La Civette is perhaps in eccentric shopping, pay
and Shakespeare & Co is a Paris’s most beautiful tobacconist. a visit to Deyrolle, Paris’s
Left Bank legend facing Notre- It is also proba bly the most famous taxidermist. Where
Dame. The Abbey Bookshop devoted to its wares and has else could you find the right
has a good selection of literary humidified shop windows to gift for the person who
and academic second-hand keep its merchandise in top has everything?
DIRECTORY
Souvenir and Musée d’Orsay Printemps Buly 1803
Museum Shops (See p147). 64 Blvd Haussmann 6 Rue Bonaparte
75009. Map 6 D4. 75006.
Les Arts Décoratifs Gifts Tel 01 42 82 50 00. Map 12 E3.
107 Rue de Rivoli 75001.
Map 12 D1. Tel 01 42 60 Le Bon Marché Perfume and Tel 01 43 29 02 50.
64 64/64 95 (for books). 24 Rue de Sèvres Cosmetics By Terry
Les Drapeaux 75007. Annick Goutal 36 Galerie Vérot-Dodat
de France Map 11 C5. 16 Rue de Bellechasse 75001.
1 Pl Colette 75001. Map Tel 01 44 39 80 00. 75007. Map 11 C3. Map 12 F2.
12 E2. Tel 01 45 51 36 13. Tel 01 44 76 00 76.
Tel 01 40 20 00 11. Galeries Lafayette
40 Blvd Haussmann One of several branches. Detaille 1905
Musée Carnavalet 75009. L’Artisan Parfumeur 10 Rue St-Lazare
(See p97). Map 6 E4. 24 Blvd Raspail 75007. 75009.
Musée du Louvre Tel 01 42 82 34 56. Map 16 D1. Tel 01 42 22 Map 6 D3.
(See p123). One of two branches. 23 32. Several branches. Tel 01 48 78 68 50.





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324  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


DIRECTORY
Fragonard E Dehillerin L’Emile Sia
203 Rue St Honoré 75001. 18-20 Rue Coquillière 136 Ave Emile Zola 75015. 3–5 Blvd Malesherbes
Map 12 D1. Tel 01 47 03 75001. Map 12 F1. Map 10 D5. 75008. Map 5 C5.
07 07. ∑ fragonard.com Tel 01 42 36 53 13. Tel 01 45 75 16 15. Tel 01 42 66 11 73.
∑ e-dehillerin.fr ∑ sia-homefashion.fr
Frédéric Malle Galignani
21 Rue du Mont Thabor Fleux 224 Rue de Rivoli 75001. Specialist Shops
75001. Map 12 D1. 39 Rue St-Croix-de-la- Map 13 A2. Tel 01 42 60
Tel 01 42 22 16 89. Bretonnerie 75004. Map 76 07. ∑ galignani.com Armorial
∑ fredericmalle.com 13 C3. Tel 01 42 78 27 20. 109 Blvd Haussmann
Gibert Joseph
Guerlain Lalique 26–34 Blvd St-Michel 75008. Map 5 B4. Tel 01 42
68 Ave des Champs- 11 Rue Royale 75008. 75006. Map 12 F5. 60 20 08. ∑ armorial.fr
Elysées 75008. Map 4 F5. Map 5 C5. Tel 01 44 41 88 88. Calligrane
Tel 01 45 62 52 57. Tel 01 53 05 12 81. ∑ gibertjoseph.com 6 Rue du Pont-Louis-
∑ guerlain.com ∑ lalique.com Philippe 75004. Map 13
One of several branches. Hôtel de Bethune- B4. Tel 01 48 04 09 00.
Muskhane Sully
Parfums Caron 3 Rue Pastourelle 75003. (See p99). ∑ calligrane.fr
34 Ave Montaigne Map 13 C2. A La Civette
75008. Map 10 F1. Tel 09 77 06 53 47. La Hune 157 Rue St-Honoré 75001.
Tel 01 47 23 40 82. ∑ muskhane.com 16–18 Rue de l'Abbaye Map 12 F2. Tel 01 42 96
∑ parfumscaron.com 75006. Map 12 E4.
Pierre Frey 04 99. ∑ la-civette.fr
Sephora 1 & 2 Rue Furstenberg Tel 01 42 01 43 55. Deyrolle
∑ la-hune.com
70–72 Ave des Champs- 75006. Map 12 E4. 46 Rue du Bac 75007.
Elysées 75008. Map 11 B1. Tel 01 46 33 73 00. I Love My Blender Map 12 D3.
Tel 01 53 93 22 50. ∑ pierrefrey.com 36 Rue du Temple Tel 01 42 22 30 07.
∑ sephora.fr Pylones 75004. Map 13 C2. ∑ deyrolle.com
One of several branches. Tel 01 42 77 50 32.
57 Rue St Louis en L'Ile La Grande Recré
Serge Lutens 75004. Map 13 B4. San Francisco Book 8–12 Rue d'Amsterdam
Palais-Royal, 142 Galerie Tel 01 40 51 75 33. Company 75009. Map 6 D3.
de Valois 75001. Map 12 ∑ pylones.com 17 Rue M le Prince Tel 01 42 93 24 41.
F1. Tel 01 49 27 09 09. One of several branches. 75006. Map 12 F5. ∑ lagranderecre.fr
∑ sergelutens.com
Sentou Tel 01 43 29 15 70. One of several branches.
Household Goods 26 Blvd Raspail 75007. Shakespeare & Co Jeux Descartes
Map 12 D4. 37 Rue de la Bûcherie 52 Rue des Ecoles 75005.
Baccarat Tel 01 45 49 00 05. 75005. Map 13 A4. Map 13 A5.
11 Pl des Etats-Unis 75116. 29 Rue François Miron Tel 01 43 25 40 93. Tel 01 43 26 79 83.
Map 4 D5. Tel 01 40 22 11 75004. Map 13 C3. ∑ shakespeareand ∑ jeux-descartes.fr
22. ∑ baccarat.fr Tel 01 42 78 50 60. company.com
(See also p204). ∑ sentou.fr La Maison du Miel
WHSmith 24 Rue Vignon 75009.
La Chaise Longue Storie Shop 248 Rue de Rivoli 75001. Map 6 D5.
30 Rue Croix-des-Petits- 20 Rue Delambre 75014. Map 11 C1. Tel 01 44 77 Tel 01 47 42 26 70.
Champs 75001. Map 12 Map 16 D2. 88 99. ∑ whsmith.fr ∑ maisondumiel.fr
F1. Tel 01 42 96 32 14. Tel 01 83 56 01 98.
∑ lachaiselongue.fr ∑ storieshop.com Flowers Mariage Frères
One of several branches. Yves Delorme 30 Rue du Bourg-Tibourg
Christofle 8 Rue Vavin 75006. Map Jacques Semer 75004. Map 13 C3.
Tel 01 42 72 28 11.
18–20 Rue de la Paix 16 D1. Tel 01 44 07 23 14. 56 Rue Caulaincourt ∑ mariagefreres.com
75002. Map 6 D5. Tel 01 ∑ yvesdelorme.com 75018. Map 2 E5. One of several branches.
42 65 62 43. Tel 01 42 23 53 04.
∑ christofle.com Books, Magazines ∑ jacquessemer.com A L’Olivier
One of several branches. and Newspapers Monceau Fleurs 23 Rue de Rivoli 75004.
La Cristallerie Paradis Abbey Bookshop 104 Rue Monge 75005. Map 13 C3. Tel 01 48 04
86 59. ∑ alolivier.com
17 bis Rue de Paradis 29 Rue de la Parcheminerie Map 17 B2.
75010. Map 7 B4. 75005. Map 13 A4. Tel 01 47 07 17 94. Pep’s
Tel 01 48 24 72 15. Tel 01 46 33 16 24. One of several branches. 223 Rue St-Martin 75003.
∑ cristal-de-paris.fr ∑ monceaufleurs.com Map 8 E4. Tel 01 42 78 11
Le Divan
Diptyque 203 Rue de la Convention Pascal Mutel 67. ∑ peps-paris.com
34 Blvd St-Germain 75005. 75015. Map 12 E3. 95 Rue de Courcelles Wolff et Descourtis
Map 13 B5. Tel 01 43 26 77 Tel 01 53 68 90 68. 75017. Map 4 E2. 18 Galerie Vivienne
44. ∑ diptyqueparis.com ∑ librairie-ledivan. Tel 01 47 63 40 78. 75002. Map 12 F1.
One of several branches. com ∑ pascalmutel.com Tel 01 42 61 80 84.
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SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  325

Food and Drink

Paris is as famous for food as it is for fashion. Gastro nomic chocolatiers Edwin and Arthur
treats include foie gras, cold meats from the charcuterie, at their two Edwart shops.
cheese and wine. Certain streets are so overflowing with Robert Linxe at La Maison du
food shops that you can put together a picnic for 20 in Chocolat is also constantly
inventing fresh, rich chocolates
no time: try the Rue Montorgueil (see p331). The Rue with mouth watering exotic
Rambuteau, running either side of the Pompidou Centre, ingredients. Richart boasts
has a marvellous row of fishmongers, cheese delicatessens beautifully presented and
and shops selling prepared foods. (See also Bars, Tearooms hugely expensive chocolates,
and Street Food pp309–11.) which are usually coated with
dark chocolate or liqueur-filled.
Debauve & Gallais are best
Bread and Cakes including pain au cèrèale known for their wonderful
There is a vast range of breads (multi-grain bread) and pain and delicious glacé chestnut
and pastries in France’s capital. d'amande (almond bread), treats (marron glacés).
The baguette is often translated the owner’s favourite.
as “French bread”; a bâtard is It is very important to
similar but thicker, while a ficelle remember that every Parisian Charcuterie and
Foie Gras
is thinner. A fougasse is a crusty, has a favourite neighbour hood
flat loaf made from baguette bakery, so when you are buying Charcuteries often sell cheese,
dough, often filled with onions, bread locally, simply choose the snails, truffles, smoked salmon,
cheese, herbs or spices. Since shop with the longest queues. caviar and wine as well as
most French bread contains Many of the Jewish cold meats. Fauchon has a
no fat, it goes stale quickly: the delicatessens have the best ryes good grocery, as does the
sooner you eat it, the better. and the only pumper nickels in department store Le Bon
The French would never eat town. One of the best known Marché (see p323). Hédiard
day-old bread so be sure to is Sacha Finkelsztajn. is a luxury shop similar to
be up in time to make it to Le Moulin de la Vierge uses Fauchon, and Maison de
the bakery for breakfast! a wood fire to bake organic la Truffe sells foie gras and
Croissants can be bought breads and rich pound cakes, cured salami sausages as
ordinaire or au beurre – the while Max Poilâne in the well as truffles. For Beluga
latter is flakier and more Montpar nasse area offers caviar, Georgian tea and
buttery. Pain au chocolat is a pains classiques, baguettes, Russian vodka, go to
chocolate-filled pastry eaten fougasses, cakes and pastries. Boutique Petrossian.
for breakfast and chausson aux Pâtisserie Secco sells a good Award-winning Gilles Verot
pommes is filled with apples. selection of filled baguettes, is known for his charcuterie,
There are also pear, plum and salads and excellent cakes. which is also available in
rhubarb variations. A pain aux Pierre Hermé is to cakes what London and New York.
raisins is a bread-like wheel Chanel is to fashion, while Maison Pou is a sparklingly
filled with custard and raisins. the macaroons from Ladurée clean and popular shop selling
Poilâne sells perhaps the only (see p311) are legendary. pâté en croute (pâté baked in
bread in Paris known by the Guy Savoy has entered the pastry), boudins (black and
name of its baker (the late boulangerie market to much white puddings), Lyonnais
Lionel, brother of Max), and his acclaim with his Goût de sausages, ham and foie gras.
hearty wholewheat bread is Brioche shop, specializing in Just off the Champs-Elysées,
tremendously popular, with the eponymous light sweet roll. Vignon has superb foie gras
freshly baked loaves being and Lyonnais sausages as well
jetted around the world to Chocolate as popular prepared foods.
satisfy the cravings of certain Together with truffles and
film stars. There are always big Like all food in France, chocolate caviar, foie gras is the ultimate
queues at the weekend and is to be savoured. Dalloyau in gourmet food, from cheaper
around 4pm when a fresh makes all types of chocolate paté de foie gras to the more
batch comes out of the oven. and is not too expensive (it’s expensive whole liver itself.
Many think Comptoir Gana also known for its pâtisserie and Though most specialist food
bakes the best bread in Paris. cold meats). Fauchon is world shops sell foie gras, you can
Thirty different kinds, including famous for its luxury food be sure of quality at Comtesse
ingredients such as walnuts products. Its chocolates are du Barry, which has six outlets
and fruit, are made in old- excellent, as is the pâtisserie. in Paris. Divay is relatively
fashioned ovens. Lenôtre makes classic truffles inexpensive and will ship
Maison Kayser, a high-end and pralines. For something a overseas. Comptoir de la
chain bakery, produces a variety little different, try the surprising Gastronomie has a range
of artisan breads and baguettes confections made by young of excellent foie gras.




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326  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Cheese neighbourhood with a range particularly interesting selection
Although Camembert is of wines to suit all pockets. of champagnes. Le Repaire
undoubtedly a favourite with As a rule, the sales people are de Bacchus is a Parisian chain
Parisians, good Paris cheese shops knowledgeable and helpful. Try renowned for the quality of its
offer an overwhelming choice, the charming Legrand Filles et wines, including champagnes,
easily running into the hundreds. Fils for a carefully chosen and its knowledgeable staff.
A friendly fromager will help selection. Caves Taillevent on The climate-controlled section
you choose. Marie-Anne the Rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré of Hédiard at Place de la
Cantin is one of the leading is worth a sightseeing tour. It is Madeleine is a good place
figures in the fight to protect an enormous, overwhelming to find rare, fine sparkling
traditional production methods, cellar with some of the most wines. The upscale Cave de la
and her fine cheeses are expensive wines. Cave Péret Grande Epicerie has a fine
available at the shop that she on the Rue Daguerre has a selection of champagnes. A
inherited from her father. Some vast selection of wines and stroll along the Boulevard
say that Alléosse is the best can offer personal advice. The St-Germain can be enhanced
cheese delicatessen in Paris. It is beautiful Ryst-Dupeyron, in with a visit to La Maison des
an Aladdin’s cave of cheeses the St-Germain quarter, displays Millésimes, a wonderful store
made according to traditional whiskies, wines, ports and carrying excel lent vintages of
methods and matured in the Monsieur Ryst’s own Armagnac. household-name champagnes.
shop’s own cellars. Fromagerie He will even personalize a
Quatrehomme sells farm-made bottle for that special occasion.
cheeses, many of which are in Other great wine stores Oysters
danger of becoming extinct; include La Cave des Papilles, The ultimate aphrodisiac
these include a rare and one of the best suppliers of for some, a slippery sea creature
delicious truffle Brie (when in organic wines in the capital. for others, there is no doubt
season). Le Jardin Fromager is The staff in Les Caves Augé that the once humble oyster
one of the best shops in Paris are also very knowledgeable can cause heated debate.
for all types of cheese – the and friendly. In Paris, the argument tends
chèvre (goat’s cheese) is to be over the best place
particularly good, and outside Champagne to purchase the gourmet
on the pavement, the daily mollusc, with every seafood
specials are offered at Fabulous fizz can be found at fan worth his platter claiming
remarkably reasonable prices. most wine stores, but some a favourite spot. It is, of course,
Laurent Dubois, a cheesemaker know their bubbles better than important to get it right.
on the Boulevard St-Germain, others. The Nicolas chain, A deciding factor for some
is known for his speciality, mentioned above, frequently is the grace with which your
marinated goat cheese. has great offers on well-known fishmonger will agree to open
Androuet is a Parisian brands, so this is a good place them for you. In general, a
institution with several to come and stock up on your polite request will be hon oured,
branches across the city. Try a favourite famous tipple. La although sometimes you may
pungent Munster or a really Cave de la Villette, on Rue have to wait a while before
ripe Brie. A charming cheese Eugène Jumin, is a friendly and being presented with a platter
shop on the bustling Rue well-stocked wine shop with perfect for a picnic. The
Montorgeuil market street, La charming staff to help you with fishmonger on the Rue Cler
Fermette, offers a dazzling array your selection. The De Verre en market street, La Sablaise
of dairy products, which the Vers, on the Rue d’Auteuil, is a Poissonnerie, has an excellent
helpful and friendly staff will good place to go for hard-to- reputation, as does the
happily vacuum-pack for find vintages. The sommelier Poissonnerie du Dôme in the
the journey home. This is here is very knowledgeable city’s 14th arrondissement.
imperative when bringing and able to provide excellent Over in the traditionally
cheese through customs, so alternative advice if your rough-and-ready area around
don’t forget to ask your preferred brand is out of stock. the Rue Oberkampf, you can
fromager to wrap it for you. Legrand Filles et Fils, on the find excellent oysters at the
Well-heeled locals queue in Rue de la Banque, is one of Poissonnerie Lacroix. If you
the street to buy oozing livarot the few shops in Paris to prefer to eat your oysters on
and sharp chèvre from La stock Salon, a rare high-end the spot, then head to an
Fromagerie d’Auteuil. champagne. They also sell huitrerie (oyster bar) such as
champagne by Jacques L’Ecume St-Honoré near chic
Selosse which is little-known Rue St-Honoré, where you
Wine
but well-loved by champagne can enjoy your oysters and a
The chain store which has connoisseurs. Les Caves du wide range of other shellfish
practically cornered the every- Panthéon, on the Rue straight away at the few tables
day tippling market is Nicolas – St-Jacques, is a small but tucked into the corner of
there’s a branch in every lovely wine shop which has a the store.



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SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  327


DIRECTORY
Bread and Cakes Lenôtre Cheese Nicolas
36 Ave de la Motte 35 Blvd Malesherbes
Comptoir Gana Picquet 75007. Map 10 F4. Alléosse 75008. Map 5 C5.
226 Rue des Pyrénées Tel 01 45 55 71 25. 13 Rue Poncelet 75017. Tel 01 42 65 00 85.
75020. Tel 01 43 58 42 62. ∑ lenotre.com Map 4 E3.
Goût de Brioche One of several branches. Tel 01 46 22 50 45. Ryst-Dupeyron
79 Rue du Bac 75007.
54 Rue Mazarine 75006. La Maison du Androuet Map 12 D3.
Map 12 F4. Chocolat 134 Rue Mouffetard Tel 01 45 48 80 93.
Tel 01 40 46 91 67. 75005. Map 17 B1.
225 Rue du Faubourg-St-
Maison Kayser Honoré 75008. Map 4 E3. Tel 01 45 87 85 05. Champagne
8 & 14 Rue Monge 75005. Tel 01 42 27 39 44. ∑ androuet.com Cave de la Grande
Map 13 B5. Richart La Fermette
Tel 01 44 07 01 42. 258 Blvd St-Germain 86 Rue Montorgeuil Epicerie
∑ maison-kayser.com 75002. Map 13 A1. 38 Rue de Sèvres 75007.
75007. Map 11 C2. Map 11 C5.
Max Poilâne Tel 01 45 55 66 00. Tel 01 42 36 70 96. Tel 01 44 39 81 00.
87 Rue Brancion 75015. La Fromagerie
Tel 01 48 28 45 90. Charcuterie d’Auteuil La Cave de la Villette
and Foie Gras
21 Rue Eugène Jumin
Le Moulin de la Vierge 58 Rue d’Auteuil 75016. 75019. Tel 09 86 28 00 11.
105 Rue Vercingétorix Boutique Petrossian Tel 01 45 25 07 10. Les Caves du
75014. Map 15 A4. 18 Blvd La Tour-Maubourg Fromagerie
Tel 01 45 43 09 84. 75007. Map 11 A2. Quatrehomme Panthéon
174 Rue St-Jacques
Pâtisserie Secco Tel 01 44 11 32 22. 62 Rue de Sèvres 75007. 75005. Map 13 A5.
75 Blvd de Grenelle 75007. Comptoir de la Map 11 C5. Tel 01 46 33 90 35.
Map 10 D5. Gastronomie Tel 01 47 34 33 45.
Tel 01 45 67 17 40. 34 Rue Montmartre Le Jardin Fromager De Verre en Vers
1 Rue de Joseph de
Pierre Hermé 75001. Map 13 A1. 53 Rue Oberkampf Maistre 75018.
72 Rue Bonaparte 75006. Tel 01 42 33 31 32. 75011. Map 14 E1. Tel 01 46 06 80 84.
Map 12 E4. Comtesse du Barry Tel 01 48 05 19 96.
Tel 01 43 54 47 77. 1 Rue de Sèvres 75006. Laurent Dubois Hédiard
21 Pl de la Madeleine
Poilâne Map 12 D4. Tel 01 45 48 47 ter Blvd St-Germain 75008. Map 5 C5.
8 Rue du Cherche-Midi 32 04. ∑ comtesse 75005. Map 13 A5. Tel 01 43 12 88 88.
75006. Map 12 D4. dubarry.com Tel 01 43 54 50 93.
Tel 01 45 48 42 59. One of several branches. La Maison des
Marie-Anne Cantin Millésimes
Sacha Finkelsztajn Divay 12 Rue du Champ-de- 137 Blvd St-Germain
27 Rue des Rosiers 75004. 4 Rue Bayen 75017. Map Mars 75007. Map 10 F3. 75006. Map 12 F4.
Map 13 C3. 4 D2. Tel 01 43 80 16 97. Tel 01 45 50 43 94. Tel 01 40 46 80 01.
Tel 01 42 72 78 91.
Fauchon Wine Le Repaire de Bacchus
Chocolate (See Chocolate). 112 Rue de Mouffetard
Gilles Verot Les Caves Augé 75005. Map 17 B2.
Dalloyau 7 Rue Lecourbe 75015. 116 Blvd Haussmann Tel 01 72 63 68 59.
101 Rue du Faubourg-St- Tel 01 47 34 01 03. 75008. Map 5 C4. One of several branches.
Honoré 75008. Map 5 B5. ∑ verot-charcuterie.fr Tel 01 45 22 16 97.
Tel 01 42 99 90 82. Oysters
Hédiard La Cave des Papilles
Debauve & Gallais 21 Pl de la Madeleine 35 Rue Daguerre 75014. L’Ecume St-Honoré
30 Rue des Sts-Pères 75008. Map 5 C5. Map 16 D4. 6 Rue du Marché St-
75007. Map 12 D4. Tel 01 43 12 88 88. Tel 01 43 20 05 74. Honoré 75001. Map 12
Tel 01 45 48 54 67 D1. Tel 01 42 61 93 87.
One of two branches. Maison Pou Cave Péret
16 Ave des Ternes 6 Rue Daguerre 75014. Poissonnerie du Dôme
Edwart 75017. Map 4 D3. Map 16 D4. 4 Rue Delambre 75014.
244 Rue de Rivoli 75001. Tel 01 43 80 19 24. Tel 01 43 22 57 05. Map 16 D2.
Map 13 A2. Tel 01 43 35 23 95.
Tel 01 49 27 03 55 Maison de la Truffe Caves Taillevent
17 Rue Vieille du Temple 19 Pl de la Madeleine 228 Rue du Faubourg- Poissonnerie Lacroix
75004. Map 13 C3. 75008. Map 5 C5. St-Honoré 75008. Map 4 44 Rue Oberkampf 75011.
Tel 01 42 76 48 92. Tel 01 42 65 53 22. F3. Tel 01 45 61 14 09. Map 14 E1.
Fauchon Vignon Legrand Filles et Fils Tel 01 47 00 93 13.
Pl de la Madeleine 75008. 13 Rue Clement Marot 1 Rue de la Banque La Sablaise
Map 5 C5. Tel 01 70 39 38 75008. Map 4 F5. 75002. Map 12 F1. 28 Rue Cler 75007. Map
00/02. ∑ fauchon.com Tel 01 47 20 10 01. Tel 01 42 60 07 12. 10 F3. Tel 01 45 51 61 78.
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328  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Art and Antiques

In Paris, you can buy art and antiques either from shops and Art Galleries
galleries with established reputations, or from flea markets Established art galleries are
and avant-garde galleries. Many of the presti gious antiques located on or around the
shops and galleries are located around the Rue du Faubourg- Avenue Montaigne.
Artcurial Gallery, located
St-Honoré and are worth a visit even if you can’t afford to buy. on the ground floor of the
On the Left Bank is Le Carré Rive Gauche, an organization of Hôtel Dassault, holds regular
30 antiques dealers. Objets d’art over 50 years old, worth exhibitions and specializes in
more than a given amount (values vary for all categories limited editions of contemp-
of art object), will require a Certificat pour un bien culturel orary sculpture, photography,
to be exported anywhere in the world (provided by the prints and multiples. Galerie
Lelong is devoted to
vendor), plus a licence d’exportation for non-EU countries. contemporary artists. The
Seek professional advice from the large antiques shops. Fondation Cartier space is
far from the crowds, in the
Exporting
p130) sells expensive, quality 14th arrondissement. The
The Ministry of Culture furniture. On Rue du Faubourg- garden surrounding the
designates objets d’art. Export St-Honoré, you will find Didier glass building adds an extra
licences are available from the Aaron, expert on furniture from dimension to the gallery’s
Comité National des Conseillers the 17th and 18th centuries. mix of contemporary sculpture,
du Commerce Extérieur de la Village St-Paul, between the urban art and performing arts.
France. The Centre des Quai des Célestins, the Rue On the Left Bank, Galerie
Renseignements des Douanes St-Paul and the Rue Charlemagne, Maeght has a tremendous stock
has a booklet, Bulletin Officiel des is the most charming group of of paintings at prices to suit
Douanes, with all the details. antiques shops and is also most budgets; it also publishes
open on Sundays. fine art books. Galerie 1900–
Philippe de Beauvais focuses 2000 specializes in works
Modern Crafts and on antique lighting fixtures, by Surrealist and Dada artists,
Furniture especially chandeliers. Le and Galerie Jeanne Bucher
One of the best places for Village Suisse in the south of represents post-war Abstraction
furniture and objets d’art is the city also groups many art with artists like Nicolas de Staël
Sentou (see pp322 and 324), and antiques dealers. Located and Vieira da Silva. Dina Vierny
where you can find objects in Le Village Suisse, Ghislaine is a bastion of Modernism,
and textiles, as well as furniture Chaplier carries an eclectic founded by scul ptor Aristide
by contem porary designers. inventory of small antiques Maillol’s famous model of the
Another essential venue is and rare glass objects. same name. Rue Louise Weiss,
the show room of the Italian in the east of Paris, is home
designer Giulio Cappellini. Reproductions, Posters to the Air de Paris gallery.
Le Viaduc des Arts (see In the Marais, try Galerie
pp274–5) is a railway viaduct, and Prints Daniel Templon – specializing
each arch of which has been A beautiful, contemporary art in American art, Galerie Sit
transformed into a shop front gallery called Artcurial on the Down, Galerie Bernard Jordan
and work shop space. It's a Rond Point des Champs-Elysées and Galerie du Jour Agnès B.
great place for contemporary has one of the best selections of In the same area, Galerie
metalwork, tapestry, sculpture, international art periodicals, Florence Loewy is a fashionable
ceramics and much more. books and prints. On Rue place to buy catalogues on
St-Sulpice, J C Martinez is a new artists, if not their
popular shop for sketches, actual works.
Antiques and reproductions, prints and
Objets d’Art
old engravings. The museum
If you wish to buy antiques, you bookshops, especially those in Auctions and
might like to stroll around the the Palais de Tokyo (see p205), Auction Houses
areas that boast many galleries – Louvre (see p123), Musée The great Paris auction
in Le Carré Rive Gauche around d’Orsay (see p147) and centre, in operation since
Quai Malaquais, try L’Arc en Pompidou Centre (see p111) 1858, is Drouot (see p220).
Seine and Anne-Sophie Duval are good places to buy art Bidding can be intimidating
for Art Nouveau and Art Deco. books, posters and postcards. since most of it is done by
Rue Jacob is still one of the Galerie Documents on the dealers. Beware of the
best places to seek beautiful Rue de Seine sells original auctioneer’s high-speed
objects, antique or modern. antique posters. Or leaf through patter. La Gazette de L’Hôtel
Close to the Louvre, the the second-hand book stalls Drouot tells you what auctions
Louvre des Antiquaires (see along the banks of the Seine. are coming up.




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SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  329


Drouot has its own auction considered not good enough rules follow those at Drouot.
catalogue as well. The house for the main house are sold at Information can also be found
only accepts cash and Drouot Montmartre. Here, in La Gazette de L’Hôtel Drouot.
French cheques, but there is auctions take place from 9am to Service des Domaines sells
an exchange desk on site. A noon and viewing is just five all sorts of odds and ends,
10–15 per cent commission to minutes before the sales begin. and here you can still find
the house is charged, so bear Exhibits and events are held at bargains. Many of the wares
this in mind and add it on to their 12-Drouot space. come from bailiffs and from
any price you hear. You may The Crédit Municipal holds Customs and Excise (see p358)
view from 11am to 6pm on around 12 auctions a month, confis cations. Viewing is from
the day before the sale, and and almost all the items on 10am to 11.30am on the day
from 11am to noon on the sale are small objects and furs of the sale in St-Maurice,
morning of the sale. Items offloaded by rich Parisians. The southeast of the city.
DIRECTORY
Exporting L’Arc en Seine J C Martinez Galerie du Jour
31 Rue de Seine 75006. 21 Rue St-Sulpice 75006. Agnès B
Centre des Map 12 E3. Map 12 E4. 44 Rue Quincampoix
Renseignements Tel 01 43 29 11 02. Tel 01 43 26 34 53. 75004.
des Douanes Map 13 B2.
Tel 08 11 20 44 44. Didier Aaron Art Galleries Tel 01 44 54 55 90.
∑ douane.gouv.fr 152 Blvd Haussmann
75008. Map 5 B4. Air de Paris Galerie Lelong
Comité National Tel 01 47 42 47 34. 32 Rue Louise Weiss 13 Rue de Téhéran
des Conseillers du ∑ didieraaron.com 75013. Map 18 E4. 75008.
Commerce Extérieur Ghislaine Chaplier Tel 01 44 23 02 77. Map 5 A3.
de la France Le Village Suisse, Gallery Artcurial Gallery Tel 01 45 63 13 19.
22 Ave Franklin Roosevelt No 65 Pl de Zurich, 7 Rond Point des
75008. Map 5 A4. 10 Ave de Champaubert Champs-Elysées 75008. Galerie Maeght
Tel 01 53 83 92 92. 75015. Map 10 E5. Map 5 A5. 42 Rue du Bac 75007.
∑ cnccef.org Tel 01 45 67 30 55 Tel 01 42 99 20 20. Map 12 D3.
or 06 80 23 02 10. Tel 01 45 48 45 15.
Modern Crafts Louvre des Dina Vierny
and Furniture Antiquaires 36 Rue Jacob 75006. Map Galerie Sit Down
4 Rue Sainte-Anastase
12 E3. Tel 01 42 60 23 18.
Giulio Cappellini 2 Pl du Palais-Royal 75001. Fondation Cartier 75003.
242 Bis Blvd St-Germain Map 12 F2. 261 Blvd Raspail 75014. Map 14 D2.
75007. Map 12 D3. Tel 01 42 97 27 27. Map 16 E3. Tel 01 42 78 08 07
Tel 01 42 84 03 78. Philippe de Beauvais Tel 01 42 18 56 50.
∑ cappellini.it 43–45 Ave Bosquet Auction Houses
75007. Map 10 F3. Galerie 1900–2000
Sentou Tel 01 47 63 20 72. 8 Rue Bonaparte 75006. 12-Drouot
26 Blvd Raspail 75007. Map 12 E3. 12 Rue Drouot 75009.
Map 12 D4. Village St-Paul Tel 01 43 25 84 20. Map 6 F4.
Tel 01 45 49 00 05. Between the Quai des Galerie Bernard Tel 01 48 00 20 00.
29 Rue François Miron Célestins, the Rue St-Paul Jordan ∑ drouot.fr
and the Rue Charlemagne
75004. Map 13 C3. 75004. Map 13 C4. 77 Rue Charlot 75003.
Tel 01 42 78 50 60. Map 14 D1. Tel 01 42 77 Crédit Municipal
Le Village Suisse 55 Rue des Francs-
Le Viaduc des Arts 54 Ave de la Motte- 19 61. Bourgeois 75004.
1–129 Ave Daumesnil Picquet and 78 Ave de Galerie Daniel Map 13 C3.
75012. Map 14 F5. Suffren 75015. Map 10 E4. Templon Tel 01 44 61 64 00/65 00.
Tel 01 71 18 75 68. Tel 01 73 79 15 41. 30 Rue Beaubourg 75003. ∑ creditmunicipal.fr
This comprises a series of ∑ levillagesuisseparis. Map 13 B1.
shops on the Avenue. com Tel 01 42 72 14 10. Drouot
9 Rue Drouot 75009.
Antiques and Reproductions, Galerie Florence Map 6 F4.
Objets d’Art Posters & Prints Loewy Tel 01 48 00 20 20.
9 Rue de Thorigny 75003.
Anne-Sophie Duval Artcurial Gallery Map 14 D2. Montmartre:
64 Rue Doudeauville
5 Quai Malaquais 75006. (See Art Galleries). Tel 01 44 78 98 45. 75018.
Map 12 E3. Galerie Documents Galerie Jeanne Bucher Tel 01 48 00 20 99.
Tel 01 43 54 51 16. 53 Rue de Seine 75006. 53 Rue de Seine 75006.
∑ annesophie Map 12 E4. Map 12 E4. Service des Domaines
duval.com Tel 01 43 54 50 68. Tel 01 42 72 60 42. Tel 01 45 11 62 62.


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330  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Markets

For eye-catching displays of wonderful food and a lively Marché d’Aligre
atmosphere, there is no better place to shop than a Paris (See p237.)
market. There are large covered food markets; markets where Built in 1779, this lively covered
market is one of the cheapest in the
stalls change regularly; and permanent street markets with a city. Here, traders hawk ingredients
mixture of shops and stalls which are open on a daily basis. such as North African olives,
Each has its own personality reflecting the area in which it is groundnuts and hot peppers and
there are even a few halal butchers.
located. A list of some of the more famous markets, with The noise reaches a crescendo at
approximate opening times, follows. For a complete list of weekends when the cries of the
markets, contact the Paris Office du Tourisme (see p359). And market boys mingle with those of
militants of all political persuasions
while you’re enjoying browsing round the stalls, remember to as the latter petition and protest in
keep an eye on your purse. Bargaining is not automatic, but the Place d’Aligre. The stalls on the
you might be able to negotiate near closing time. square sell mostly second-hand
clothes and bric-à-brac. This is a
trendy, Bohemian area of town with
Fruit and Vegetable Flea Markets few tourists and many Parisians.
Markets
It’s often said that you can no
The French treat food with the longer find bargains at the Paris Rue Cler
kind of reverence usually flea markets. Though this may (See p192.)
reserved for religion. Many be true, it’s still worth going This high-class, pedestrianized food
still shop on a daily basis to be to one for the sheer fun of market is patronized mainly by the
sure of buying the freshest browsing. And bear in mind that politicians and captains of industry
produce possible, so food the price quoted is not the one who live and work in the vicinity, so
it’s good for people-spotting! The
markets tend to be busy. The that you are expected to pay – it produce is excellent – there’s a
majority of fruit and vegetable is general ly assumed that you Breton delicatessen and some
markets are open from around will bargain. Most flea markets good fromageries.
8am to 1pm and from 4pm to are located on the city’s bound-
7pm Tuesday to Saturday, and aries. Whether you pick up any
from 9am to 1pm Sunday. real bargains has as much to do Marché des Enfant Rouges
Buy produce loose rather than with luck as with judge ment, 39 Rue de Bretagne 75003. Map 14 D2.
in boxes, but keep a close eye and may depend on whether q Temple, Filles-du-Calvaire.
on what the stallholder puts in the seller knows the true value Open 8.30am–1pm & 4–7.30pm Tue–
your bag. Most outdoor stalls of their goods. The biggest, Sat (to 8pm Fri, Sat); 8.30am–2pm Sun.
prefer to serve you rather than busiest and most famous This long-established, charming fruit
allow you to handle the market, incor porating several and vegetable market on the Rue de
Bretagne is part covered, part
produce yourself, but don’t be smaller specialist ones, is the outdoors and dates from 1620. The
afraid to point to the individual Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen. produce is famous for its freshness,
fruit and vegetables of your Be sure to keep your eye on and there are cheap eateries too. On
choice. Your connoisseurship your wallet, as pickpockets Sunday mornings, there are sometimes
will be respected. A little frequent these markets. street performers and accordionists.
language is useful for specifying
pas trop mur (not too ripe), Marché aux Fleurs
or pour manger ce soir (to be Specialist Markets Madeleine
eaten tonight). If you go to the Try the Marché aux Fleurs Pl de la Madeleine 75008.
same market every day, you’ll Madeleine, the Marché aux Map 5 C5. q Madeleine.
become familiar to the stall Fleurs Reine Elizabeth II (see p87) Open 8am–7.30pm Mon–Sat.
holders and will be less likely or the Marché aux Fleurs Ternes
to be fobbed off with the in the Champs-Elysées district Marché aux Fleurs Ternes
occasional “reject” fruit or for fresh flowers. On the Ile de Pl des Ternes 75017. Map 4 E3.
q Ternes. Open 8am–7.30pm
vegetable. You will also get to la Cité on Sundays, the Marché
know the stalls worth buying aux Oiseaux bird market Tue–Sun.
from and the produce worth replaces the flower market. Marché St-Pierre
buying. Seasonal fruit and Stamp collectors will enjoy the Pl St-Pierre 75018. Map 6 F1.
permanent Marché aux Timbres,
vegetables are, of course, where you can also buy old q Anvers. Open 10am–6.30pm
usually a good buy, tending to post cards. In Montmartre, the Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat.
be fresher and cheaper than at the large Marché St-Pierre, Marché aux Timbres
other times of the year. Finally, spread over six floors, is famous Ave Marigny 75008. Map 5 B5.
it is best to shop at markets for inexpensive fabrics and is q Champs-Elysées–Clemenceau.
early in the day when the patronized by professional Open 9am–7pm Thu, Sat, Sun &
food is freshest and the designers and dressmakers. public hols.
queues are shortest.


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SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  331

Marché Joinville Rue Poncelet packed with stalls. Some of them are
Corner of Rue Jomard and Rue de 75017. Map 4 E3. q Ternes. very upmarket, others sell junk. The
Joinville 75019. q Crimée. Open 8am–1pm & 3–7.30pm flea market is a 10–15-minute walk
Open 7am–2.30pm Thu & Sun. Tue–Sat, 8am–1pm Sun. from Clignancourt Metro – don’t be
This lively canalside market is known The Rue Poncelet food market is put off by the somewhat sleazy
Marché Malik which you have to
for its cheap fruit and vegetables. It is situated away from the main tourist pass through on your way from the
situated on the Canal d’Ourcq, near areas of Paris but is worth visiting for Metro. A Guide des Puces (guide to
the Parc de la Villette, and is always its authentic French atmosphere. the flea markets) can be obtained
teeming with shoppers. Choose from the many bakeries, from the information kiosk in the
pâtisseries and charcuteries or enjoy Marché Biron on the Rue des Rosiers.
Marché St-Germain authentic Auvergne speciali ties from The more exclusive markets will take
Aux Fermes d’Auvergnes. credit cards and arrange for goods to
4–6 Rue Lobineau 75006. Map 12 E4. be shipped home. New stock arrives
q Mabillon. Open 8am–1pm & on Friday, the day when pro-
4–8pm Tue–Fri; 8.30am–1.30pm & Marché aux Puces de la fessionals come from all over the
3.30–8pm Sat; 8am–1.30pm Sun. Porte de Vanves world to sweep up the best buys.
St-Germain is one of the few covered Ave Georges-Lafenestre & Ave Marc- Among the markets here, the
markets left in Paris and has been Sangnier 75014. q Porte-de-Vanves. Marché Jules Vallès is good for turn-
enhanced by renovation. The smart Open 7am–2pm Sat & Sun. of-the-19th-century objets d’art.
arcade surrounding it is home to Marché Paul-Bert is more expensive,
some glossy foreign names – an Porte de Vanves is a small market but charming. Items on sale include
Apple store, Marks & Spencer – and selling good-quality bric-à-brac and furniture, books and prints. Both
the market fare is cosmopolitan too, junk as well as some second-hand markets deal in second-hand goods
with Italian, Mexican, Greek and furniture. It’s best to get to the market rather than antiques.
Asian offerings alongside the top- early on Saturday morning for the In a different league, Marché Biron
notch French produce. best choice of wares. Artists exhibit sells elegant, expensive antique
nearby in the Place des Artistes.
furniture of very high quality. Marché
Rue de Lévis Vernaison is the oldest and biggest
75017. Map 5 B2. q Villiers. Open Marché Président-Wilson market, good for collectables such as
jewellery as well as lamps and
10am–7.30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–1pm Sun. Situated in Ave du Président-Wilson, clothes. No information about the
Rue de Lévis is a bustling, popular between Pl d’Iéna & Rue Debrousse Marché aux Puces is complete
food market near the Parc Monceau 75016. Map 10 D1. q Alma-Marceau. without mentioning Chez Louisette
with a number of good pâtisseries, Open 7am–2.30pm Wed, 7am– in the Vernaison market. This café is
an excellent cheese delicatessen and 3pm Sat. always full of locals enjoying the
a charcuterie known for its savoury This very chic food market on Avenue home cooking and the well-
pies. The part of the street that leads Président-Wilson is close to the Musée intentioned renditions of Edith Piaf
to Rue Legendre sells haber dashery d’Art Moderne and the Palais Galliera songs. Marché Cambo is a fairly small
and fabrics. The shops on this fashion museum. It has become market with beautifully displayed
pedestrian ized street also have stalls important because there are no other antique furniture. Marché Serpette is
outside selling their wares.
food shops nearby. It is best for meat. popular with the dealers: everything
sold here is in mint condition.
Rue Montorgueil Marché aux Puces de
75001 & 75002. Map 13 A1. q Les Montreuil Marché Raspail
Halles. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, Porte de Montreuil, 93 Montreuil 75020. Situated on Blvd Raspail between
am only Sun (subject to change). q Mairie de Montreuil. Rue du Cherche-Midi & Rue de
The Rue Montorgueil is what Open 7am–7.30pm Mon, Sat & Sun. Rennes 75006. Map 12 D5.
remains of the old Les Halles market. q Rennes. Open 7am–2.30pm
The street has been repaved and Go early to the Porte de Montreuil Tue, Fri, 9am–2pm Sun.
flea market, where you’ll have a
restored to its former glory. Here, you The Raspail market sells typical
can buy exotic produce like green better chance of picking up a French groceries as well as
bargain. The substantial second-
bananas and yams from the market Portuguese produce on Tuesdays
gardeners’ stalls, and sample delicious hand clothes section attracts and Fridays. But Sunday is the day
offerings from the delicatessens or many young people. There’s also for which it’s famous, when health-
from the Stohrer pastry shop. a wide variety of items including
used bicycles, bric-à-brac and an conscious Parisians turn up in droves
exotic spices stand. for the organically grown produce.
Rue Mouffetard Marché Raspail is not a cheap
market, but it is very good.
(See p168.) Marché aux Puces de
Rue Mouffetard is one of the oldest St-Ouen Rue de Seine and
market streets in Paris. Although it Rue de Buci
has become touristy and somewhat (See pp248–9.)
overpriced, it’s still a charming This is the best known, the most 75006. Map 12 E4. q Odéon.
winding street full of quality food crowded and the most expensive of Open 8am–1pm & 4–7pm Tue–Sat,
products and street musicians. There all the flea markets, situated on the 9am–1pm Sun.
is also a lively African market down northern outskirts of the city. Here, The stalls here are expensive and
the nearby side street of Rue you’ll find a range of markets, locals crowded but sell quality fruit and
Daubenton, and a number of fashion dealing from their car boots and a vegetables. There are also a large
boutiques and bars in the area. number of extremely large buildings florist’s and two excellent pâtisseries.
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332  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN PARIS


Whether you prefer classical drama or cabaret, “oh-la-la!” experience, showgirls await you at
showgirls or ballet, opera or jazz, cinema or celebrated cabarets while bright young things
dancing the night away, Paris has it all. Free pose in nightclubs. For fans of spectator sports,
entertainment is aplenty as well, from the there is tennis, the Tour de France, horse racing,
street performers outside the Pompidou football or rugby. Recreation centres and gyms
Centre to musicians busking in the Metro. cater to the more active, while the municipal
Parisians themselves enjoy strolling along the swimming pools delight waterbabies. You
boulevards or sitting at a pavement café, and can also catch a game of boules (or pétanque)
nursing a drink. Of course, for the ultimate in Paris’s squares and parks.

Practical Information Booking Tickets
partially, or perhaps not at all.
For the visitor in Paris, there Depending on the event, Often, obliging ushers will
is no shortage of information tickets can be bought at the put you in a better seat,
about what’s on offer. door, but for blockbuster depending on availability,
The Office du Tourisme, near concerts it is necessary to but don’t forget to tip.
the Tuileries and Opéra, is the book well in advance. For most Theatre box offices are
city’s main tourism distribution major events, open daily from approximately
point for leaflets and schedules including 11am until 7pm. Most box
of events. It has a recorded some classical offices accept credit card
information telephone music concerts bookings made by phone or
service giving details and museum in person, but you may have
of free concerts shows, tickets can be to arrive early to pick up your
and exhibitions purchased online or at tickets if you booked by
along with FNAC or Carrefour telephone, as they may be
information shops. For popular sold to someone else at the
on transport to the events book well last minute. If you are really
venues. Its website is also ahead, Parisians can keen and can’t get hold of
extremely useful. Your hotel be very quick off the tickets, you can always turn
reception desk or concierge mark for hot tickets. up at the box office just
should also be able to However, for theatre, before the performance in
help you with any Ballerina of the Ballet opera and dance case there are unclaimed or
such information. They de l’Opéra performances, you returned tickets.
usually keep a wide can often buy
range of brochures and leaflets inex pensive tickets at the
for guests, and will generally be last minute. If the tickets are Listings Magazines
more than happy to make marked sans visibilité, you will Paris has several good listings
reservations for you. be able to see the stage only magazines. Among them are
Pariscope and L’Officiel des
Spectacles. They are published
every Wednesday. Le Figaro
has a good listings section on
Wednesdays. Télerama, France’s
leading culture and listings
weekly, has a Paris supplement
called Sortir. For English listings,
see the webzine Paris Voice at
www.parisvoice.com.
Ticket Touts
If you must have a ticket to
a sold-out performance, do
as the French do: stand at the
entrance with a sign that says
cherche une place (or deux,
etc). Many people have an
extra ticket to sell. Often the
people selling the extra
Concert at the Opéra National de Paris Garnier (see p340) tickets are doing so because




332-333_EW_Paris.indd 332 03/04/17 10:58 am

ENTER T AINMENT IN P ARIS  333



























The Odéon Théâtre de l’Europe, a major theatre venue sometimes staging plays in English

a person in their party cannot to make sure or look on
come and they will simply sell en.parisinfo.com, which has
the ticket on at face value. It is a full list of theatres, cinemas
fine to buy these tickets, but do and other venues that are
watch out for touts and be sure accessisible. As far as public
you don’t buy a counterfeit or transport is concerned, much
overpriced ticket. of the Metro, due to its long
stairways and age, is not
accessible to wheelchairs.
Cut-Price Tickets
However, the newer line 14,
Half-price tickets to current which runs from Olympiades
plays are sold on the day of to Gare Saint-Lazare and
performance at Kiosque serves many prime sights The Grand Rex cinema (see p346)
Théâtre. Credit cards are such as the Opéra National de
not accepted and a small Paris Garnier, offers full DIRECTORY
commission is charged per accessibility to wheelchairs.
ticket. There is a booth on the All bus lines are equipped Carrefour
Place de la Madeleine (see with ramps to make them Tel 01 4157 3223.
p218), on the Parvis de la Gare wheelchair-accessible, but ∑ spectacles.carrefour.fr
Montparnasse and on Place a few bus stops are not yet FNAC
des Ternes. All are open from fully equipped: check with Forum des Halles, 1 Rue
12.30 until 8pm on Tuesday Infomobi (see p360) to find Pierre-Lescot 75001.
to Saturday and from 12.30 out which these are. Map 13 A2.
until 4pm on Sunday. The Tel 0825 020 020.
kiosque is a Parisian institution 26 Ave des Ternes 75017.
and often has tickets for the Map 4 D3.
season’s top shows. Tel 0825 020 020.
Check the listings magazines Kiosque Théâtre
for free concerts in parks and
churches in summer. Pl de la Madeleine/opposite
Montparnasse station/
Place des Ternes.
Disabled Visitors’ ∑ kiosquetheatre.com
Facilities
Office du Tourisme
Where facilities do exist, they 25 Rue des Pyramides 75001.
are very good. Many venues Map 12 E1.
have wheelchair space, but ∑ parisinfo.com
always phone in advance Pétanque players




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334  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Theatre

From the grandeur of the Comédie Française to slapstick farce venues include the Bouffes
and avant-garde drama, theatre is flourishing in Paris and the Parisiens, Théâtre La Bruyère,
suburbs – the training ground for the best young actors and the Michel and the St-Georges.
directors. The city also has a long tradi tion of playing host to The Théâtre du Gymnase
presents popular one-man
visiting companies, and it attracts many foreign productions, comedy shows.
often in the original languages.
There are theatres scattered throughout the city and the Café-Theatres and
theatre season runs from September to July; national theatres Chansonniers
close during August but many commercial ones stay open. There is a long tradition of
For complete listings of what’s on read Pariscope or L’Officiel entertainment in cafés, but
des Spectacles (see p332). the café-theatres of today
have nothing in common with
the “café-concerts” of the late
National Theatres
experi mental and contemporary 19th century. These modern
Founded in 1680 by royal decree, theatre, lively dance productions entertainments have originated
the Comédie Française (see and, occasion ally, musical revues. because young actors and new
p130), with its strict conventions The Théâtre National de la playwrights could not find work,
regarding the style of acting and Colline has two performance while drama students were
interpreta tion, is the bastion of spaces and specializes in unable to pay to hire established
French theatre. Its aim is to keep contemporary dramas. theatres. Don’t be surprised if
classical drama in the public eye there is an element of audience
and also to perform works by Further Afield participation, or alternatively, in
the best modern playwrights. small venues, if the actors can
Inextricably linked in the A thriving multi-theatre complex sometimes seem a little too
national consciousness to in the Bois de Vincennes, the close for comfort. This form of
Molière, the Comédie Française Cartoucherie houses five theatre is now so popular in Paris
is the oldest national theatre in separate avant-garde theatres, that one can often see posters
the world and one of the few including the internationally advertising classes for café-
institutions of France’s ancien famous Théâtre du Soleil. theatre or notices inviting
régime to have survived the people to join small troupes.
Revolution. It settled into its Café-theatres rose to
present home after players Independent Theatres prominence during the 1960s
occupied the Palais-Royal during Among the most important of and 70s, when unknowns such
the Revolution. The traditionally the serious independents are as Coluche, Gérard Depardieu
styled red velvet auditorium has the Comédie des Champs- and Miou-Miou made their
a vast stage equipped with the Elysées, the Théâtre Hébertot debut at the Café de la Gare
latest technology. and the Théâtre de l’Atelier, before going on to success on
The majority of the repertoire which aims to be experimental. the screen, so who knows who
is classical, dominated by Other notable venues include you might see at your local café.
Corneille, Racine and Molière, the Théâtre Marigny, for Good venues for seeing new
followed by second strings excellent modern French drama, talent include the Théâtre
Marivaux, Alfred de Musset and the Théâtre Montparnasse d’Edgar and Le Point Virgule,
Victor Hugo. The company also and the Théâtre Antoine, while Cabaret Michou is an old-
performs modern plays by which pioneered the use of fashioned spot that tends to
French and foreign playwrights. realism on stage. The Théâtre specialize in drag acts and
The Odéon Théâtre de de la Madeleine maintains broad caricature. Traditional
l’Europe, also known as the consistently high standards and chansonniers – cabarets where
Théâtre National de l’Odéon the Théâtre de la Huchette ballads, folk songs and humour
(see p142), was at one time the specializes in Ionesco plays. abound – include Au Lapin
second theatre of the Comédie The British director Peter Brook Agile (see p229), in Mont martre.
Française. It now has two sites has a loyal following at the Political satire is on offer at the
and specializes in performing Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord. Caveau de la République and
plays from other countries in For over a hundred years, the the Théâtre des 2 Anes, also in
their original languages. Next Théâtre du Palais-Royal has Montmartre. Another form of
door, the Petit Odéon is a studio been the temple of risqué farce. café entertainment that often
space specializing in new plays. With fewer French Feydeau- veers towards the theatrical is
The Théâtre National de style farce writers these days, the café-philosophique. These
Chaillot is a huge underground translations of British and are philosophical discussions or
auditorium in the Art Deco Palais American sex comedies are debates, held on topics such as
de Chaillot (see p202). It stages filling the gap. Other notable justice, war and love, in which




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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 17th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

ENTER T AINMENT IN P ARIS  335


skilled orators take to the floor to A historic venue, it is much- vehicle for comedy sketches and
declaim their positions. Audience loved by expatriates and plays inter national beauties. Paradis
partici pation is encouraged. host to some of the finest comic Latin is the most “French” of all
Such events are held in many talent on the circuit at the the city’s cabaret shows. It has
locations, including at Les moment. Some theatres now variety acts with remarkable
Editeurs. Although debates put on plays with illuminated special effects and scenery in
take place in French, English surtitles in English above the an old Left Bank theatre partly
language events also exist: play stage. See theatreinparis.com for designed by Gustave Eiffel.
readings are a regular feature at details of participating venues. The Bobin’O offers a
the Café de Flore (see p141). commercial show that is
inspired by all of Paris’s cabarets.
Street Theatre
Children’s Theatre In summer, jugglers, fire-eaters, The Moulin Rouge (see p230),
once the haunt of Toulouse-
Some Paris theatres, such as mime artists and musicians can Lautrec, is the birthplace of the
the Théâtre du Gymnase, the be seen in tourist areas like the cancan. Today, the Moulin
Théâtre de la Porte St-Martin Pompidou Centre (see pp110–11), Rouge is less extravagant than
and the Théâtre d’Edgar, have St-Germain and Les Halles. the screen version portrayed in
children’s matinées on the famous film, but cabaret
Wednesdays and weekends. fans can still be certain of an
In the city parks, there are Cabaret evening of glamour, glitz and
several tiny puppet theatres The music hall revue is the good times. Outrageously
(marionnettes), which are sure to entertainment form most camp, transvestite parodies of
delight children and adults alike. associated with late 19th- these showgirl reviews can be
The Lido also has an occasional century Paris. It evokes images of seen at Cabaret Michou.
children’s season with shows at Bohemian artists and absinthe-
2pm and 4pm (call for details). induced debauchery. Today, Booking Tickets
most of the women are likely to
be non-French and the audience Tickets can be bought at the box
Open-Air Theatre is made up mainly of foreign office, by telephone or through
During the summer, weather businessmen and tour groups. theatre agencies. Box offices are
permitting, open-air perfor- When it comes to picking a open daily 11am–7pm; some
mances of Shakespeare and cabaret, the rule of thumb is accept credit card bookings by
classic French plays are held in simple: the better-known places telephone or in person. Most
the Shakespeare Garden in the are the best. Lesser-known tickets can also be bought online,
Bois de Boulogne. There are also shows resemble nothing so via either theatre websites or
occasional performances in the much as Grade-B strip shows. Internet ticket agencies like
Tuileries and in Montmartre as All the cabarets listed here (see FNAC, Carrefour or Cultival.
part of Paris’s summer festival; p336) guarantee topless women
check listings magazines for sporting outrageous feather
these events. and sequin-encrusted head- Ticket Prices
pieces, an assortment of Ticket prices generally range
vaudeville acts and, depen ding from €7–€30 for the national
English-Language on your point of view, a specta- theatres and €8–€38 for the inde-
Theatre in Paris
cularly entertaining evening or pen dents. Reduced-price tickets
The Improfessionals (improvised an exercise in high kitsch. and student standbys are
comedy) and Mondays @ 7 are The Lido is the most Las available in some theatres 15
Paris-based companies who Vegas-like of the cabarets and minutes before curtain-up. For
perform in English (details in stars the legendary Bluebell cabaret, expect to pay from
listings magazines). There are Girls. The Folies Bergère is €23–€60; €68–€105 with dinner.
also several English-language renowned for lively entertain- The Kiosque Théâtre (see
poetry societies which host ment. It is the oldest music hall p333) offers half-price tickets
poetry and play readings, the in Paris and probably the most on the day of performance;
best is the Live Poets Society. famous in the world. credit cards are not accepted
Kilometre Zero is an English- The Crazy Horse features and a small commission is
language arts collective that some of the more risqué charged for each ticket. There
performs plays, publishes a performances, and dancers with are booths in three locations.
magazine and hosts open-mike names such as Betty Buttocks
recital evenings. La Java puts on and Nouka Bazooka. It has been Dress
excellent stand-up comedy acts transformed from its Wild West
in English each month, courtesy bar-room into a jewel-box These days, evening clothes are
of Anything Matters. Peter theatre with a champagne only worn to gala events at the
Brook occasionally puts on bucket on each seat. Here, the Opéra National de Paris Garnier,
Shakespeare plays at the lowly striptease of burlesque the Comédie Française or the
Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord. shows has been refined into a premiere of an up-market play.




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336  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


DIRECTORY
National Theatres Comédie des Théâtre Michel Au Lapin Agile
Champs-Elysées 38 Rue des Mathurins 22 Rue des Saules 75018.
Comédie Française 15 Ave Montaigne 75008. 75008. Map 5 C4. Map 2 F5.
Salle Richelieu, 1 Pl Map 10 F1. Tel 01 53 23 Tel 01 42 65 35 02. Tel 01 46 06 85 87.
Colette 75001. 99 19. ∑ comediedes ∑ theatre-michel.fr ∑ au-lapin-agile.com
Map 12 E1. champselysees.com
Tel 08 25 10 16 80. Théâtre Antoine Théâtre Le Point Virgule
∑ comedie-francaise.fr Montparnasse 7 Rue St-Croix-de-la-
14 Blvd de Strasbourg 31 Rue de la Gaîté 75014. Bretonnerie 75004.
Odéon Théâtre 75010. Map 7 B5. Map 15 C2. Map 13 C3.
de l’Europe Tel 01 42 08 77 71. Tel 01 43 22 77 74. Tel 01 42 78 67 03.
Ateliers Berthier, ∑ theatre-antoine.com ∑ theatre ∑ lepointvirgule.com
1 Rue André Suares Théâtre de l’Atelier montparnasse.com
75017. Map 12 F5. 1 Pl Charles Dullin 75018. Théâtre du Palais- Théâtre des 2 Anes
Tel 01 44 85 40 40. Map 6 F2. Royal 100 Blvd de Clichy 75018.
Théâtre de l’Odéon, Tel 01 46 06 49 24. 38 Rue de Montpensier Map 6 D1.
Pl de l’Odéon 75006. ∑ theatre-atelier.com 75001. Map 12 E1. Tel 01 46 06 10 64.
Map 12 F5. Théâtre des Bouffes Tel 01 42 97 59 76 or ∑ 2anes.com
∑ theatre-odeon.eu du Nord 01 42 97 40 00 (tickets). Théâtre d’Edgar
Théâtre National 37 bis Blvd de la Chapelle ∑ theatrepalaisroyal. 58 Blvd Edgar-Quinet
de Chaillot 75010. Map 7 C1. com 75014. Map 16 D2.
1 Pl du Trocadéro 75016. Tel 01 46 07 34 50/01 46 Théâtre de la Porte Tel 01 43 22 11 02/ 01 42
Map 9 C2. 07 33 00. St-Martin 79 97 97. ∑ theatre-
∑ bouffesdunord.
Tel 01 53 65 30 00. com/en 18 Blvd St-Martin 75010. edgar.com
∑ theatre-chaillot.fr Map 7 C5.
Théâtre La Bruyère Tel 01 42 08 00 32. Cabaret
Théâtre National 5 Rue La Bruyère 75009.
de la Colline Map 6 E3. Tel 01 48 74 ∑ portestmartin.com Bobin’O
15 Rue Malte-Brun 75020. 76 99. ∑ theatre Théâtre St-Georges 14–20 Rue de la Gaîté
Tel 01 44 62 52 52. labruyere.com 51 Rue St-Georges 75009. 75014. Map 15 C2.
∑ colline.fr Map 6 E3.
Théâtre du Gymnase Tel 01 48 78 63 47. Tel 08 20 00 90 00
Further Afield 38 Blvd de Bonne-Nouvelle ∑ theatre-saint- (tickets), 01 43 27 24 24
75010. Map 7 A5. georges.com (general info).
Cartoucherie Tel 01 42 46 79 79 ∑ bobino.fr
Route du Champ-de- ∑ theatredu Café-Theatres Crazy Horse
Manoeuvre 75012. gymnase.com and Chansonniers 12 Ave George V 75008.
Tel 01 43 74 87 63. Théâtre Hébertot Map 10 E1. Tel 01 47 23
∑ cartoucherie.fr 78 bis Blvd des Cabaret Michou 32 32. ∑ lecrazyhorse
Théâtre de Batignolles 75017. Map 5 80 Rue des Martyrs 75018. paris.com
Map 6 F3.
B2. Tel 01 43 87 23 23
l’Aquarium or 01 43 87 24 24 (info). Tel 01 46 06 16 04. Folies Bergère
Tel 01 43 74 72 74/99 61. ∑ theatrehebertot.com ∑ michou.com 32 Rue Richer 75009.
Théâtre du Chaudron Théâtre de la Café de la Gare Map 7 A4. Tel 08 92 68 16
Tel 01 43 28 97 04. Huchette 41 Rue du Temple 50. ∑ foliesbergere.com
Théâtre de l’Epée 23 Rue de la Huchette 75004. Map 13 B2. Lido
de Bois 75005. Map 13 A4. Tel 01 42 78 52 51. 116 bis Ave des Champs-
Tel 01 43 26 38 99.
Tel 01 48 08 39 74. Caveau de la Elysées 75008.
∑ theatre-
Théâtre du Soleil huchette.com République Map 4 E4.
1 Blvd St-Martin/23 Pl de
Tel 01 43 74 24 08. Théâtre de la la République 75003. Tel 01 40 76 56 10
∑ lido.fr
Théâtre de la Madeleine Map 8 D5.
Tempête 19 Rue de Surène 75008. Tel 01 47 70 97 96. Moulin Rouge
Tel 01 43 28 36 36. Map 5 C5. 82 Blvd de Clichy 75018.
Tel 01 42 65 07 09. Les Editeurs Map 6 E1.
Independent ∑ theatre- 4 Carrefour de l’Odéon Tel 01 53 09 82 82.
75006. Map 12 F4.
Theatres madeleine.com Tel 01 43 26 67 76. ∑ moulinrouge.fr
Théâtre Marigny
Bouffes Parisiens Carré Marigny 75008. La Java Paradis Latin
4 Rue Monsigny 75002. Map 5 A5. 105 Rue du Faubourg du 28 Rue du Cardinal
Map 6 E5. Tel 01 53 96 70 30 or 08 Temple 75010. Map 8 E5. Lemoine 75005. Map 13
Tel 01 42 96 92 42. 92 22 23 33 (bookings). Tel 01 42 02 20 52. B5. Tel 01 43 25 28 28.
∑ bouffesparisiens.com ∑ theatremarigny.fr ∑ la-java.fr ∑ paradislatin.com
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Classical Music

The music scene in Paris is busy and exciting, with many first- repertoire. In addition to running
class venues offering an excellent range of opera, and classical the Salle Pleyel, the Cité de la
and contemporary music productions. There are also Musique also operates other
numerous concerts in churches (some of which are free) and venues at Parc de la Villette.
These concert halls present a
many music festivals, particularly during the summer months. varied programme of music from
Information about what’s on is listed in Pariscope and all periods, genres and cultures.
L’Officiel des Spectacles. A free monthly listing of musical events While currently closed for
is given out at most concert halls. Also, try the Office du renovation, the Théâtre du
Tourisme in the Rue des Pyramides (see pp332–3) for details Châtelet is one of the city’s
main venues for all kinds of
of many free and open-air classical music performances.
concerts, opera and dance.
The high-quality programme
includes opera classics, from
Opera (500 seats) and the Studio (200 Mozart’s Così fan tutte to Verdi’s
Opera lovers will find themselves seats) for smaller-scale events La Traviata, and more modern
well catered for, with many connected to the current works, such as Boessman’s
productions mounted at the productions on the main stages Contes d’Hiver, and occasional
Bastille, the main venue for here and at the Opéra Garnier. concerts by international opera
opera, and also at the beautiful The Opéra Comique (also stars. Great attention is also
Opéra National de Paris Garnier. known as the Salle Favart), devoted to 20th-century music
Opera is also an important part of directed by Jérôme Deschamps, here, and there are lunchtime
the programming at the Théâtre no longer has opera, but stages concerts and recitals in the foyer.
du Châtelet, as well as being a wide range of eccentric, light- The venue should reopen in 2019.
produced intermittently by a weight productions, including The beautiful Art Deco
variety of small organizations, some popular music-hall-style Théâtre des Champs-Elysées
and there are occasional large- work and operetta. It reopened is a celebrated classical music
scale lavish productions at the in early 2017 following major venue that also produces some
AccorHotels Arena (see p342). renovation work. opera and dance. Radio France
The Opéra de Paris’s ultra- North of the city centre, at is part-owner of the theatre, and
modern home is the Opéra St Denis, the Stade de France its Orchestre National de France
National de Paris Bastille hosts occasional opera gives concerts here, as do many
(see p102), where performances spectaculars. Past productions touring orchestras and soloists.
make full use of the house’s have included Verdi’s Aïda, The Orchestre des Champs-
mind-boggling array of high- directed by Charles Roubaud, Elysées, directed by Philippe
tech stage mechanisms. There as well as Bizet’s Carmen and Herreweghe, is in residence
are 2,700 seats, all with a good Nabucco by Verdi. here, and gives period-
view of the stage, and the instrument perfor mances.
acoustics are excellent. Radio France is the biggest
Productions feature classic Concerts single concert organizer in
and modern operas, and Paris is the home of three major Paris, with a musical force that
interpretations are often avant- symphony orchestras, and a includes two major symphony
garde: past examples include good half-dozen other orchestras: the Orchestre
Philippe Mamoury’s K...; Bob orchestras; it is also a major National de France and the
Wilson’s production of The venue for touring European and Orchestre Philharmonique.
Magic Flute, done in the style American orchestras. Chamber Many of its concerts are given
of Japanese Noh; and Messiaen’s music is also flour ishing, either in Paris’s other concert halls, but
St Francis of Assisi, with video as part of the programming of the Maison de Radio-France
screens and neon added to the major venues, or in smaller has a large hall and several
bring the story up to date. halls and churches. smaller studios that are used
On Thursday lunchtimes, The Salle Pleyel is Paris’s for concerts and broad casts
they also offer free concerts, principal concert hall. After open to the public (see p204,
lectures and films as part of an extensive renovation, it is now Maison de Radio-France).
occasional programme known owned by the state-run Cité de The Cité de la Musique is a
as Casse-Croûte à l’Opéra. la Musique and houses the massive cultural centre devoted
There are also occasional Orchestre de Paris, directed by entirely to music – of all genres
dance performances, when the Christoph Eschenbach, as well and from all eras. Classical
Bastille plays host to the ballet as Radio France’s Philharmonic music features heavily on its
company from the Opéra Orchestra, led by Myung-Whun programme, with lots of
National de Paris Garnier (see Chung. The Salle Pleyel has chamber music and recitals,
p219). The house includes two optimal acoustics for the classical as well as more ambitious
smaller spaces, the Auditorium and contemporary orchestra orchestral concerts.




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338  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


The Auditorium du Louvre was Georges Aperghis, who necessary to go to the theatre
built as part of the Grand Louvre specializes in musical theatre. box office or venue concerned,
project (see pp122–9) and it is The fabulously designed Cité though some festivals may run
used mostly for chamber, piano de la Musique complex at Parc an advance online or postal
and vocal recitals. The Musée de la Villette includes both a booking service.
d’Orsay’s (see pp146–9) spectacularly domed salle de
Auditorium du Musée d’Orsay concerts surrounded by a
is a medium-sized audi torium, glass-roofed arcade, and the Churches
with an active concert Conservatoire National de Music is everywhere in Paris’s
programme. Concerts are Musique with its opera theatre churches, in the form of classical
usually held once or twice and two small concert halls. concerts, organ recitals or
a week, and prices vary. The Chamber Orchestra of religious services. The most
Other museums often hold Europe plays regularly here. outstanding churches which
concerts as part of an exhi bition Both venues are used for regular hold regular concerts include
theme – such as troubadours at performances, including jazz, the Eglise de la Madeleine (see
the Musée National du Moyen ethnic and contemporary p218), St-Germain-des-Prés
Age (see pp154–7) – so do check music, as well as chanson (see p140), St-Julien-le-Pauvre
the listings magazines. and Early Music. (see p158) and St-Roch (see
Musique à la Sorbonne is a For details, either phone the p131). Music is also performed
concert series in the Grand venue concerned or consult the in the Eglise des Billettes,
Amphithéâtre de la Sorbonne listings magazines. For those St-Sulpice (see p174),
and the Amphi théâtre interested in contem porary St-Gervais–St-Protais (see
Richelieu de la Sorbonne. music, the quarterly magazine p103), Notre-Dame (see pp82–5),
Productions have included a Résonance is published by St-Louis-en-l’Ile (see p91) and
Slavonic music festival, IRCAM at the Pompidou Centre. Sainte-Chapelle (see pp88–9).
featuring the works of East A great proportion, but not
European composers. all, of these concerts are free. If
Occasionally concerts are Festivals you have any difficulty contact-
given in the Conservatoire Some of the most important ing the church in question, try
d’Art Dramatique, where music festivals are the result the Office du Tourisme for
Beethoven was introduced to of the work of the Festival information (see pp332–3).
Paris audiences in 1828 and d’Automne à Paris, which
where Hector Berlioz’s major acts as a behind-the-scenes
work, La Symphonie Fantastique, stimulator, commissioning Early Music
was first per formed. Otherwise, new works, subsidizing others A number of early-music
it’s not usually open to public. and in general enlivening the ensembles have taken up
Parisian musical, dance and residence in Paris. The Chapelle
theatrical scene from Royale gives a concert series at
Contemporary Music September to December. the Théâtre des Champs-
Contemporary music in Paris The Festival St-Denis (see p65) Elysées, with programmes
has a high profile and is running throughout June ranging from Renaissance vocal
definitely alive and kicking. and July holds concerts, with music to Mozart. Their enchant-
Jonathan Nott now directs the an emphasis on choral works. ing sacred music concerts (look
experimental Ensemble Most performances are given out for Bach cantatas) take place
InterContemporain, which is in the Basilique St-Denis. at Notre-Dame-des-Blancs-
lavishly supported by the Musique Baroque au Château Manteaux (see p104).
French state in its home at the de Versailles, from around the Baroque opera is more the
Cité de la Musique (see pp238–9). middle of March to the middle domain of Les Arts Florissants,
IRCAM (see p114), founded and of June, is an offshoot of the founded and directed by
formerly directed by Pierre Centre de Musique Baroque American-born William Christie,
Boulez, a composer, conductor de Versailles, founded in 1988. who perform French and Italian
and writer who was a leading Operas, concerts, recitals, operas from Rossi to Rameau,
figure in the capital’s chamber music, dance and and Les Musiciens du Louvre,
contemporary music scene, theatre are on offer in the directed by Marc Minkowski.
is a major centre for ground- fabulous surroundings of Both companies perform
breaking new musical forms. It Versailles (see pp250–55). regularly at the Théâtre du
organizes a programme of new Other interesting festivals Châtelet (currently closed) and
music performances, talks and include the Festival Chopin, the Opera National Garnier. The
an annual festival in June. held in the Orangerie in the Bois Théâtre de la Ville (also closed,
Other bright stars among de Boulogne from mid-June to but due to reopen summer
the many talented composers mid-July, and the Quartier d’Eté 2018) is also an excellent venue
include Pascal Dusapin, Philippe Festival, which hosts a series of in which to hear Baroque
Fénelon, George Benjamin and outdoor classical music chamber music, as is the pretty
Philippe Manoury, as well as concerts. For tickets, it is usually Eglise St-Germain l’Auxerrois.




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ENTER T AINMENT IN P ARIS  339

Booking Tickets for the cheaper seats aside performances taking place at
For tickets, it’s always best for the purpose. Ticket agents, private theatres.
to deal directly with the notably in the FNAC stores Note, however, that many
relevant box office. Booking (see p333), and a good hotel theatres and concert halls may
tickets at the main venues is concierge can also help. These be closed during the holiday
possible online or by post up agencies accept credit card season in August, so enquire
to two months before the bookings – a useful service as first to avoid disappointment.
performance and by telephone not all venues are guaranteed
two weeks to a month in to accept them.
advance. If you want a good Half-price tickets on the day Ticket Prices
seat, it’s best to book in of performance can be bought Ticket prices can range from
advance as tickets tend to sell at one of three Kiosque Théâtre €8–€85 for the Opéra de Paris
quickly. Last-minute tickets (see p333) locations at Place de Bastille and the principal
may also be available at the la Madeleine, the Parvis de la classical music venues, and from
box office, and certain venues, Gare Montparnasse and Place €5–€25 for the smaller halls and
such as the Opéra National de des Ternes. However, these concerts in churches around the
Paris Bastille, keep some tickets agencies usually only deal for city, such as Sainte-Chapelle.
DIRECTORY
Classical Music Eglise de la Notre-Dame St-Louis-en-l’Ile
Venues Madeleine Pl du Parvis-Notre-Dame 19 Rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile
Pl de la Madeleine 75008. 75004. Map 13 A4. 75004. Map 13 C4.
Amphithéâtre Map 5 C5. Tel 01 44 51 69 Tel 01 44 41 49 99. Tel 01 46 34 11 60.
Richelieu de la 00 (church); 01 42 50 96
Sorbonne 18 (concerts). Notre-Dame-des St-Roch
Blancs-Manteaux
17 Rue de la Sorbonne 12 Rue des Blancs- 296 Rue St-Honoré 75001.
75005. Map 12 F5. Eglise St-Germain Manteaux 75004. Map 13 Map 12 E1.
Tel 01 40 46 20 19. l’Auxerrois C3. Tel 01 42 72 09 37. Tel 01 42 44 13 20.
2 Place du Louvre 75001. St-Sulpice
Auditorium Opéra Comique
See Opéra National de Map 12 F2. 5 Rue Favart 75002. Map 2 Rue Palatine, Pl St-
Paris Bastille. Tel 01 42 60 13 96. 6 F5. Tel 01 80 05 68 60. Sulpice 75006. Map 12 E4.
Tel 01 42 34 59 98 or
Auditorium du Festival d’Automne ∑ opera-comique.com 01 46 33 21 78.
Louvre 156 Rue de Rivoli 75001. Opéra National de Salle Pleyel
Musée du Louvre, Rue de Map 12 F2. Tel 01 53 45 Paris Bastille 252 Rue du Faubourg
Rivoli 75001. Map 12 E2. 17 00 or 01 53 45 17 17 120 Rue de Lyon 75012. St-Honoré 75008.
Tel 01 40 20 55 00/55. (tickets). ∑ festival- Map 14 E4. Tel 08 92 89 90
automne.com Map 4 E3. Tel 01 42 56 13
Auditorium du Musée 90. ∑ operadeparis.fr 13. ∑ sallepleyel.fr
d’Orsay Festival Chopin Opéra National de Stade de France
102 Rue de Lille 75007. Orangerie de Bagatelle Paris Garnier Rue Henri Delaunay,
Map 12 D2. Bois de Boulogne 75016. Pl de l’Opéra 75009. Map La Plaine St-Denis 93210.
Tel 01 53 63 04 63. Map 3 A4. 6 E4. Tel 08 92 89 90 90. Tel 01 55 93 00 00.
Tel 01 45 00 22 19 (info); ∑ operadeparis.fr
Centre de Musique 08 92 68 36 22 (tickets). ∑ stadefrance.com
Baroque de Versailles ∑ frederic-chopin.com Quartier d’Eté Festival Studio
22 Ave de Paris, Versailles. Tel 01 44 94 98 00. See Opéra National de
Tel 01 39 20 78 10. Grand Amphi théâtre ∑ quartierdete.com Paris Bastille.
∑ cmbv.fr de la Sorbonne Sainte-Chapelle
47 Rue des Ecoles 75005. Théâtre des Champs-
Cité de la Musique 8 Blvd du Palais. Map 13 Élysées
Parc de La Villette, 221 Map 13 A5. Tel 01 40 46 A3. Tel 01 53 40 60 80 or 15 Ave Montaigne 75008.
Ave Jean-Jaurès 75019. 20 19. 01 44 07 12 38 (info). Map 10 F1.
Tel 01 44 84 44 84. IRCAM St-Germain-des-Prés Tel 01 49 52 50 50.
∑ citedelamusique.fr 1 Pl Igor Stravinsky 75004. 3 Pl St-Germain-des Prés Théâtre du Châtelet
Conservatoire d’Art Map 13 B2. Tel 01 44 78 75006. Map 12 E4. 2 Rue Edouard Colonne,
Dramatique 48 43 or 01 44 78 15 45. Tel 01 55 42 81 10. Pl du Châtelet 75001.
2 bis Rue du Conservatoire ∑ ircam.fr St-Gervais–St-Protais Map 13 A3. Tel 01 40 28
75009. Map 7 A4. Maison de Radio- Place St-Gervais 75004. 28 28. ∑ chatelet-
Tel 01 42 46 12 91. France Map 13 B3. theatre.com
∑ cnsad.fr 116 Ave du Président- Tel 01 48 87 32 02. Théâtre de la Ville
Eglise des Billettes Kennedy 75016. Map 9 St-Julien-le-Pauvre 2 Pl du Châtelet 75004.
24 Rue des Archives B4. Tel 01 56 40 22 22 79 Rue Galande 75005. Map 13 A3.
75004. Map 13 C2. or 01 56 40 15 16. Map 13 A4. Tel 01 42 74 22 77.
Tel 01 42 77 70 09. ∑ maisondelaradio.fr Tel 01 43 54 52 16. ∑ theatredelaville.com



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340  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Dance

When it comes to dance, Paris is more a cultural crossroads innovative theatre is also
than a cultural centre. Due to a deliberate government policy staged. Many directors and
of decentralization, many of the top French dance companies companies start here, then
are based in the provinces, although they frequently visit the go on to international fame.
capital. In addition, the greatest dance companies from all The Centre National de la
Danse in Pantin, a north eastern
over the world perform here. Paris has a well-deserved suburb of Paris, is France’s
reputation as a centre of excellence for modern and national conservatoire. It hosts
experimental dance, and has numerous workshops and workshops, talks and
places in which to learn its many forms. performances, from classical
ballet to experimental dance.
Classical Ballet which has remained open
The opulent Opéra National de during the main house’s closure. Events Listings
Paris Garnier (see p219) is the The Maison des Arts et de la To find out what’s on, read the
home of the Ballet de l’Opéra de Culture de Créteil presents inexpensive weekly entertain-
Paris which enjoys a reputation some of the most interesting ment guides Pariscope and
as one of the world’s best dance works in Paris. It is L’Officiel des Spectacles. Posters
classical dance companies. located in the modern, advertising dance performances
Since the Opéra National de concrete, mid-20th-century are widely displayed in the
Paris Bastille opened in 1989, Paris suburb of Créteil, southeast Metro and on the streets,
the Opéra National de Paris of the city. Under artistic director especially on the green
Garnier has been used for dance Didier Fusillier, dance at MAC advertisement columns,
as well as for opera. Extensively is part of an ambitious the colonnes Morris.
restored both inside and out, it programme of avant-garde
is one of the largest theatres in theatre, installations and Ticket Prices
Europe, with performance performance as showcased at
space for 450 artists and a its annual festival EXIT, which Expect to pay €10–€195 for
seating capacity of 2,200. is held in March. Acclaimed tickets to the ballet or opera at
Modern dance companies French choreographer Maguy Opéra National de Paris Garnier,
such as the Martha Graham Marin was MAC’s resident €6–€75 for the Théâtre des
Company, Paul Taylor, Merce dance guru for some years. Champs-Élysées, and anything
Cunningham, Alvin Ailey, Jerome Set amid the opulent couture from €9 to €30 for other venues.
Robbins and Roland Petit’s Ballet shops and embassies, the
de Marseille also regularly elegant Art Deco Théâtre des Dance Venues
perform here. The Opéra National Champs-Élysées has 1,900 seats.
de Paris Garnier also shares It is frequented by an upmarket Centre National de la Danse
operatic productions with the audience who watch major 1 Rue Victor Hugo 93507 Pantin.
Tel 01 41 83 98 98. ∑ cnd.fr
Opéra National de Paris Bastille. international companies perform
here. It was here that Nijinsky first Maison des Arts et
danced Stravinsky’s icono clastic de la Culture de Créteil
Modern Dance 1 Pl Salvador Allende 94000
The Rite of Spring, which led to
Paris’s Théâtre de la Ville is rioting among the audience. Créteil. Tel 01 45 13 19 19.
scheduled to reopen in 2018 The theatre is more famous ∑ maccreteil.com
following extensive renovations. as a classical music venue, but Opéra National de
Once run by Sarah Bernhardt, it visitors have included the Paris Bastille
is one of Paris’s most important Dance Theatre of Harlem and See p339.
venues for modern dance. London’s Royal Ballet, plus a Opéra National de
Through performances at the strong Russian presence, notably Paris Garnier
Théâtre de la Ville, modern the St Petersburg Ballet Theatre. See p339.
choreographers such as Jean- The lovely old Théâtre du
Claude Gallotta, Regine Chopinot, Châtelet is a renowned opera Théâtre de la Bastille
76 Rue de la Roquette 75011.
Maguy Marin and Anne Teresa and classical music venue, but Map 14 F3. Tel 01 43 57 42 14.
de Keersmaeker have gained it is also host to interna tional ∑ theatre-bastille.com
international recognition. contemporary dance companies
Music performances also run such as the Tokyo Ballet and the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées
throughout the season and Birmingham Royal Ballet. It is See p339.
include chamber music, world due to reopen following Théâtre du Châtelet
music and jazz. Some events renovation work in 2019. See p339.
take place at the theatre’s second, Experimental dance Théâtre de la Ville
smaller venue in Montmartre, companies perform in the See p339.
the Théâtre des Abbesses, Théâtre de la Bastille, where



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Rock, Jazz and World Music

Music lovers will find every imaginable form of music in crossover, are on offer. Clubs
Paris and its environs, from international pop stars in major range from quasi-concert halls
venues to buskers of varying degrees of talent on the streets to piano bars and pub-like
and in the Metro. There’s a huge variety of styles on offer, with venues. One of the most
popular places, though not the
reggae, hip-hop, world music, blues, folk, rock and jazz – Paris most comfortable, is the New
is said to be second only to New York in the number of jazz Morning. It’s hot and the table
clubs and jazz recordings made here, and there is always an service can be a little erratic, but
excellent selection of bands and solo performers. all the great jazz musicians
On the summer solstice (21 June) each year, the Fête de la continue to perform here, as
they have in the past. Arrive
Musique takes place. The whole city parties all night, with early to ensure a good seat.
everything from huge outdoor stages and top bands to Le Duc des Lombards is a lively
lone buskers or accordionists playing traditional French songs jazz club in Les Halles, which
invading Paris’s streets, squares and cafés. also features salsa.
For complete listings of what’s happening, buy Pariscope Many jazz clubs are also cafés,
(published every Wednesday) at any kiosk. For jazz fans bars or restaurants. The latter
includes the intimate Autour de
there’s the monthly Jazz magazine for schedules and in- Midi... et Minuit in Montmartre,
depth reviews. with its vaulted “cave”. Dining
might not be a requirement, but
it’s always wise to check first.
Major Venues songwriter and musician Other hotspots are Le
The top international acts are Bertrand Burgalat, led to a Petit Journal Montparnasse
often at the enormous arenas: growth in confidence in the for modern jazz, Le Petit
AccorHotels Arena at Bercy, local music scene. The phrase Journal St-Michel for Dixieland.
Stade de France at St-Denis or “French Touch” often describes A trendy crowd is drawn to
the Zénith. Other venues,such hip producers, writers or La Bellevilloise’s Sunday jazz
as the legendary chanson centre singers, now in demand all over brunches in Ménilmontant.
of the univ erse, the Olympia, or the world. Banlieue- (suburb-) Caveau de la Huchette looks
the Grand Rex (also a cinema), based rap, rai and reggae no like the archetypal jazz joint, but
offer a more traditional concert- longer sound like French today, it favours swing and big-
hall atmosphere. They host versions of imported forms, band music, and is popular with
everyone from bewigged and instead they now have their students. The Caveau des
cosmetically enhanced iconic own identity. Oubliettes has a growing
first ladies of country to acid jazz There is no shortage of gigs. reputation for cutting-edge jazz.
stars. (See Directories p342 The latest bands usually play at For a change, try the local
and p351). Divan du Monde, Nouveau talent at small, friendly bars
Casino and La Cigale and its such as the less expensive
sister club, La Boule Noire. The Bistrot d’Eustache and super-
Rock and Pop Rex Club is the best place for cool La Flêche d’Or, set in an
Until recently, Paris’s indigenous R&B. Many other nightclubs old railway station. The Jazz
rock groups (Les Négresses also double up as live music Club Etoile in the Méridien
Vertes, the hit fusion band of venues (see pp343–5). The hotel is a well-respected venue
the nineties and noughties, are Olympia is the city’s most which features Sunday jazz
probably the best-known) drew famous rock venue, attracting brunch. On the other side of
foreign attention precisely top acts. The Bataclan, scene of town, the Le Trabendo has an
because they were French. tragedy in November 2015, intriguing mix of up-and-
For too long, Paris pop meant made a defiant reopening just comers and down-and-outers.
Johnny Hallyday and insipid a year later with a string of dates Although the Sunset-Sunside is
covers of US and UK hits, or that upheld its tradition of primarily known for jazz, it
Serge Gainsbourg and his hosting rock’s edgiest names. also includes blues nights on
distinctive, decadent style. its programme.
Paris rock traditionally Jazz Paris has two international
(and deservedly) attracted jazz festivals in summer: Paris
either patronizing praise or Paris is still jazz-crazy. Many Jazz Festival (see p65) and Jazz
outright mockery. American musicians have à la Villette in July. The former is
That is no longer the case. made the French capital their the mainstay of the summer
The international success of home because of its receptive calendar, and Jazz à la Villette in
the groups Daft Punk and Air, atmosphere. All styles, from the Parc de la Villette (see pp238–
and the contribution to the free-form to Dixieland and 9) offers films on jazz, debates
music scene of producer, swing, and even hip-hop-jazz and boeufs (jam sessions).




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342  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

World Music Many jazz clubs intersperse their Ticket Prices
With its large populations from programmes with ethnic music. Prices at jazz clubs can be
West Africa, the Maghreb, the These include New Morning, steep, and there may be a cover
Antilles and Latin America, which also has shows with charge of over €15 at the door,
Paris is a natural centre for South American artists, and which usually includes the first
world music. The Chapelle des Baiser Salé, for popular acts drink. If there is no cover
Lombards has played host to including Makossa, Kassav, charge, the drinks will be
top acts; it also has jazz, salsa Malavoi and Manu Dibango. expensive and at least one
and Brazilian music. Aux Trois World music in a stunning must be bought.
Mailletz is a medieval cellar setting can be found at the Tickets can be bought online
with everything from blues to Institut du Monde Arabe (see on the FNAC website or from
tango and rock-and-roll covers, p166), which draws stars from FNAC outlets (see p333), or directly
while Kibélé is a great place the Arab music world to its from venue box offices and at the
for North African sounds. concert hall. door of the clubs themselves.
DIRECTORY
Major Venues Divan du Monde Caveau des Le Petit Journal
75 Rue des Martyrs 75018. Oubliettes St-Michel
AccorHotels Arena Map 6 F2. 52 Rue Galande 75005. 71 Blvd St-Michel 75005.
8 Blvd de Bercy 75012. Map 13 A4. Map 16 F1. Tel 01 43 26
Map 18 F2. Tel 01 58 70 Tel 01 40 05 06 99. Tel 01 46 34 23 09. 28 59. ∑ petitjournal
16 00. ∑ accorhotels ∑ divandumonde.com stmichel.fr
arena.com Nouveau Casino Le Duc des Lombards Sunset-Sunside
42 Rue des Lombards
Le Grand Rex 109 Rue Oberkampf 75001. Map 13 A2. 60 Rue des Lombards
1 Blvd Poissonnière 75011. Map 14 F1. Tel 01 42 33 22 88. 75001. Map 13 A2.
Tel 01 40 26 46 60.
75002. Map 7 A5. Tel 01 43 57 57 40. ∑ ducdeslombards.com ∑ sunset-sunside.com
Tel 01 45 08 93 89 ∑ nouveaucasino.net La Flêche d’Or
or 08 92 68 05 96. 102 bis Rue de Bagnolet Le Trabendo
∑ legrandrex.com Rex Club 75020. Tel 01 44 64 01 02. 211 Ave Jean-Jaurès,
5 Blvd Poissonnière Parc de la Villette 75019.
Olympia 75002. Map 7 A5. ∑ flechedor.fr Map 8 F1.
28 Blvd des Capucines Tel 01 42 36 10 96. La Grande Halle de Tel 01 42 06 05 52.
75009. Map 6 D5. ∑ rexclub.com la Villette ∑ letrabendo.net
Tel 08 92 68 33 68. 211 Ave Jean-Jaurès,
∑ olympiahall.com Jazz Galerie de la Villette 75019. World Music
Stade de France Map 8 F1. Baiser Salé
Tel 01 40 03 75 75.
(See p339) Autour De Midi... ∑ villette.com 58 Rue des Lombards
et Minuit 75001. Map 13 A2.
Zénith 11 Rue Lepic 75018. Jazz Club Etoile Tel 01 42 33 37 71.
211 Ave de Jean-Jaurès, Hôtel Méridien, 81 Blvd ∑ lebaisersale.com
Parc de la Villette 75019. Map 6 E1. Gouvion-St-Cyr 75017. Chapelle des
Tel 01 44 52 54 56 Tel 01 55 79 16 48. Map 3 C3. Lombards
or 08 90 71 02 07. ∑ autourdemidi.fr Tel 01 40 68 30 42. 19 Rue de Lappe 75011.
∑ zenith-paris.com La Bellevilloise ∑ jazzclub-paris.com Map 14 F4.
Rock and Pop 19–21 Rue Boyer 75020. New Morning Tel 01 43 57 24 24.
∑ la-chapelle-des-
Tel 01 46 36 07 07. 7–9 Rue des Petites- lombards.com
Bataclan ∑ labellevilloise.com Écuries 75010.
50 Blvd Voltaire 75011. Bistrot d’Eustache Map 7 B4. Institut du Monde
Map 14 E1. Tel 01 45 23 51 41. Arabe
Tel 01 43 14 00 30. 37 Rue Berger, ∑ newmorning.com (See p166)
∑ bataclan.fr Carré des Halles 75001. Paris Jazz Festival Kibélé
Map 13 A2. Parc Floral Bois de 12 Rue de l’Echiquier
La Boule Noire Tel 01 85 15 22 89. Vincennes 75012. 75010. Map 7 B5.
118 Blvd Rochechouart ∑ bistrotdeustache.fr ∑ parisjazzfestival.fr Tel 01 48 24 57 74.
75018. Map 6 F2. ∑ lekibele.com
Tel 01 49 25 81 75. Caveau de la Le Petit Journal New Morning
∑ laboule-noire.fr Huchette Montparnasse (See Jazz)
La Cigale 5 Rue de la Huchette 13 Rue du Commandant- Aux Trois Mailletz
Mouchotte 75014.
120 Blvd Rochechouart 75005. Map 13 A4. Map 15 C2. 56 Rue Galande 75005.
75018. Map 6 F2. Tel 01 43 26 65 05. Tel 01 43 21 56 70. Map 13 A4.
Tel 01 49 25 89 99. ∑ caveaudela ∑ petitjournal Tel 01 43 25 96 86.
∑ lacigale.fr huchette.fr montparnasse.com ∑ lestroismailletz.fr



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Nightclubs

Paris’s nightlife is undergoing a revival, with a number of Up until midnight it’s members
collectives breathing new life into the scene and bringing only, but after that, the doors
a more varied diet of music – not just techno, but hip hop, open to the general public,
rock, pop, reggae and electro-lounge – into the proceedings. though you still have to look
the part to get in.
These collectives aren’t necessarily attached to one particular Also very selective is Chez
club, but they take over a venue for one-off events; the Raspoutine, just off the
venues can be anything from traditional clubs, the best Champs-Elysées, much
of which we’ve listed below, to warehouses in the suburbs. favoured by visiting foreign
Many of the places listed here are not just clubs – they’re celebrities. The club used to
be a Russian cabaret, and it
bars, restaurants, live music venues and clubs all rolled has preserved its decadent
into one; live concerts usually take place from 7pm until red velvet decor, banquettes
midnight, then a DJ takes over until 2am or dawn. A number and intimate corners.
of bars also turn into clubs later in the evening at weekends;
we’ve listed a few of the best below. Trendy Clubs
Clubs with cool riverside
Mainstream Clubs exclusive, it has now become locations blossom in the
A great mainstay of the more mainstream, though you capital, especially in the
techno clubbing scene, the should still dress up to get in. 13th arrondissement. One of
unpretentious Rex Club is Under the same the hottest spots is Concrete,
popular with people of all ages. management, but on the on a boat on the Seine near
It has one of the best sound other side of the bridge and the Gare de Lyon. It puts on
systems in the capital and with the Eiffel Tower as the all-day and all-night electro
attracts big-name French backdrop to its terrace, is parties, with some of the
and international DJs. Faust, a stylish restaurant, bar best DJs around and a state-
Another stalwart is La and club that is especially of-the-art sound system. On
Java, housed in a fabulous popular for its club nights the opposite side of the river
Art Deco building that has of electro and house run is the enduring Batofar, the
changed little since the by big-name DJs. scarlet lighthouse ship moored
1930s, when the likes of Edith on the Seine in front of the
Piaf and Django Reinhardt Bibliothèque Nationale. The
performed here. Its music Exclusive Clubs music at this hybrid locale
policy has become more If you aren’t rich, beautiful (restaurant, bar, live music
adventurous of late, featuring or, at least, super-hip (if not venue and club) varies from
garage rock, as well as electro. actually an A-list celebrity), underground techno to reggae,
Electronica dominates at gaining entry to Paris’s more depending on the night of the
Zigzag Club, in a glamorous exclusive clubs will be difficult. week, but the crowds are
location off the Champs- It’s worth noting, however, always friendly and relaxed. In
Elysées; it attracts big crowds that bouncers often treat the summer, try not to miss
with its large dance floor, top foreign would-be entrants their wonderfully chilled-out
DJs and state-of-the-art preferentially, so be sure afternoon sessions on the
Funktion One sound system. to stand proud, ditch any quayside, when they set out
The vast La Machine du attempts at French and deckchairs and a barbecue
Moulin Rouge has a more speak English when you for the Batofar Plage.
eclectic music policy – here, get near the door. Nearby Nüba, on the top
you’ll dance to anything from The hardest club to get floor of the waterside Cité is
electro to hip hop. There’s also into is probably Le Montana, also particularly appealing in
a concert space/downstairs in St-Germain-des-Prés. This the summer months, when
dance floor, La Chaufferie chic, intimate space is packed you can enjoy a drink looking
(so named because it used with celebrities and models out at the Seine and listening
to be the boiler room for the quaffing champagne and to techno.
Moulin Rouge next door), expensive cocktails. A firm fixture on the scene
and a bar upstairs. Equally exclusive is Silencio, is Le Social Club, in bobo-chic
Showcase is a hot venue on opened by US film director Montorgueil, popular with a
Paris’s night scene. Boasting David Lynch and inspired by lively, unpretentious crowd
more than 3,000 sq metres the club that appears in his who come to listen to an
(32,000 sq ft) of space below film Mulholland Drive. Lynch excellent line-up of live
the Pont Alexandre III, it designed everything in this bands, followed by DJ sets,
triples as a bar, nightclub club – from the 1950s-style while knocking back the club’s
and concert hall. Once rather furniture to the gold-leaf walls. signature drink, mint vodka.




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344  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


The Nouveau Casino, Another good bet is Carmen, The oldest gay club in Paris
behind the ever trendy located in a ravishing is Le Club 18, just behind the
Café Charbon (see p311) in Second Empire mansion, Palais-Royal. It’s very small but
Oberkampf, pulls in an eclectic and drawing a select, good- friendly and attracts a good-
crowd for its live music and looking crowd with its cutting- looking young crowd. Raidd
club nights, often run by edge programming and Bar is well known as the
cutting-edge collectives. experimental cocktails. infamous “shower bar”, where
Creating a buzz in the scantily clad men dance in a
Bastille area is Badaboum. neon-lit, glass-fronted shower.
Set in an old warehouse, it World Music Some mainstream clubs also
hosts live bands and club You can dance to more exotic host gay nights; one of the best
nights. It also has a cocktail sounds – Afro, Latin, Balkan is Gibus’s Nuit des Follivores/
and tapas bar, plus a secret and tropical beats – on Crazyvores, where a young,
room upstairs, complete weekends at La Dame de relaxed crowd parties to 80s
with a bed, sofas and a fridge. Canton, a wonderful Chinese pop and house music.
Sporting a retro-industrial junk moored on the Seine in La Champmeslé, one of
setting is Yoyo, a large club the 13th arrondissement, near the most venerable fixtures
housed in the cavernous Batofar. It also has a bar and on Paris’s lesbian scene, also
concrete basement of the restaurant. Another good bet welcomes gay men and stages
Palais de Tokyo’s contemporary is L’Alimention Générale, one regular cabaret nights. In the
art site. Its eclectic of the most popular fixtures Marais is the 3W Kafé (the
programming and renowned on the Oberkampf nightlife 3Ws standing for Women With
international DJs draw a young, scene, where you can dance Women), and Le So What,
glamorous crowd. to live bands playing Afro where club nights tend to
Out on the northeastern and Balkan beats, samba and attract thirty-something
edge of the city, Glazart is a gypsy jazz; on weekend club lesbians, who enjoy cocktails
bit of a trek, but worth it for its nights, the music tends in between DJ sets. Also with
slightly alternative vibe and towards techno, hip hop a strong lesbian following,
wide range of music, including and funk. La Bellevilloise’s though open to all, is Sunday
hip hop, drum ‘n’ bass and club nights often have a night at Rosa Bonheur. Hidden
electro. As well as club nights, world-music slant. away in the Parc des Buttes-
it puts on regular concerts, For salsa, head to Barrio Chaumont and set in a former
which, unusually, are mostly Latino. Occupying three guinguette (an old-fashioned
free. In summer, La Plage de floors of a building designed open-air café/dancehall), this
Glazart creates a beach-party by Gustave Eiffel, it combines is a lovely place to drink and
atmosphere: some 50 tonnes Latin music with great dance any day of the week,
of sand are imported to create cocktails and tapas served especially in summer.
a mini-beach, where you can from trolleys by roaming staff. Aimed at both gay men
play boules and sit and enjoy Dancers can perfect their and lesbians, Le Tango is a
open-air gigs. moves at the Sunday salsa converted dance hall where
On the city’s eastern limits, classes. You can also take salsa you can spend the first half
old-timer La Flèche d’Or, set lessons and then dance the of the evening (till 12.30am)
in a converted train station, night away at La Pachanga. perfecting your tango, cha
also offers an eclectic array cha cha and other old-time
of concerts, DJ nights and dances, before letting your
concept evenings. Gay and Lesbian hair down to a traditional
Venues
Though mostly a live music disco (techno is banned).
venue, it’s worth checking what’s Paris boasts a thriving LGBT
on at Le Cabaret Sauvage, a scene. The traditional strong-
swish locale in La Villette, shaped hold of the gay community is Admission Charges
like a big-top tent, where the Marais neighbourhood, Some clubs are strictly private,
collectives often stage electro which features lots of LGBT- while others have a more
and drum ‘n’ bass nights. friendly bars and clubs. One of open admission policy.
the best known is CUD (Classic Prices range from €10 to
Up and Down), with its €30 or more and may be
DJ Bars
ground-floor bar and vaulted even higher after midnight
Popular DJ bars – bars that turn basement dance floor. It pulls and at weekends. Quite
into clubs on the weekend – in people of all ages and gets often there are concessions
include Panic Room, on jam-packed after 2am, since for women.
happening Rue Amelot, with it’s one of the few places in In general, one drink (une
a bar on the ground floor and the area that stays open till consommation) tends to be
a dance floor in the basement; the early hours. The nearby included in the club’s entry
and Glass, a cocktail bar in Le Free DJ bar hosts popular price; thereafter, it can
the hip South Pigalle district. weekend club nights. become an expensive evening.



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DIRECTORY
Mainstream Trendy Clubs Glass Le Club 18
Clubs 7 Rue Frochot 75009. 18 Rue de Beaujolais
Badaboum Map 6 E2. 75001.
Faust 2 bis Rue des Tel 09 80 72 98 83. Map 12 F1.
Taillandiers 75011.
Beneath Pont Alexandre Map 14 F4. ∑ glassparis.com Tel 01 42 97 52 13.
III, Left Bank 75007. ∑ badaboum.paris ∑ club18.fr
Map 11 A2. Batofar Panic Room CUD
Tel 01 44 18 60 60. Moored opposite 101 Rue Amelot 75011. 12 Rue des Haudriettes
∑ faustparis.fr 11 Quai François Map 14 D1. 75003.
Mauriac 75013. Tel 01 58 30 93 43.
La Java Map 18 F4. Map 13 C2.
(See p336 – Cafe-Theatres Tel 01 53 60 17 00. ∑ panicroomparis.com Tel 01 42 71 56 60.
and Chansonniers) ∑ batofar.org World Music Le Free DJ
La Machine du Le Cabaret Sauvage 35 Rue Sainte-Croix
de la Bretonnerie 75003.
Moulin Rouge 211 Ave Jean Jaurès, L’Alimentation Map 13 C3.
Parc de la Villette 75019.
90 Blvd de Clichy Générale
Tel 01 42 09 03 09. Tel 01 48 04 95 14.
75018. Map 4 E4. ∑ cabaretsauvage. 64 Rue Jean-Pierre ∑ freedj.fr
Tel 01 53 41 88 89. com Timbaud 75011.
∑ lamachinedu Concrete Map 14 F1. Gibus
18 Rue du Faubourg du
moulinrouge.com Port de la Rapée 75012. Tel 01 43 55 42 50. Temple, 75011.
Map 18 E2. ∑ alimentation-
Rex Club ∑ concreteparis.fr generale.net Map 8 E5.
(See p342 – Rock and Pop) Tel 01 82 09 95 32.
La Flèche d’Or Barrio Latino ∑ gibus.fr
Showcase (See p342 – Jazz) 46–48 Rue du Faubourg
Under Alexander III Glazart Raidd Bar
Bridge, Port des Champs- 7–15 Ave de la Porte St-Antoine 75012. 23 Rue du Temple 75004.
Elysées 75008. de la Villette 75019. Map 14 F4. Map 13 C2
Map 11 A1. Tel 01 40 36 55 65. Tel 01 55 78 84 75. Tel 01 53 01 00 00.
∑ raiddbar.com
Tel 01 45 61 25 43. ∑ glazart.com ∑ barrio-latino.com
∑ showcase.fr Nouveau Casino La Bellevilloise Rosa Bonheur
(See p342 – Rock and Pop) 2 Allée de la Cascade
Zigzag Club (See p342 – Jazz) 75019.
32 Rue Marbeuf 75008. Nüba Tel 01 42 00 00 45.
36 Quai d’Austerlitz La Dame de Canton
Map 4 F5. 75013. Port de la Gare 75013. ∑ rosabonheur.fr
Tel 06 35 25 03 61 Map 18 E2. Map 18 F4. Le So What
∑ zigzagclub.fr Tel 01 76 77 34 85. Tel 01 53 61 08 49. 30 Rue du Roi de Sicile
∑ lenuba.com
Exclusive Clubs ∑ damedecanton.com 75008.
Le Social Club Map 13 C3.
142 Rue Montmartre La Pachanga
Chez Raspoutine 75002. 8 Rue Vandamme 75014. Tel 01 42 71 24 59.
58 Rue de Bassano 75008. Map 13 A1. Map 15 C2. Le Tango
Map 4 E5. Tel 01 40 28 05 55. 13 Rue au Maire 75003.
Tel 01 47 20 02 90. ∑ parissocialclub.com Tel 01 56 80 11 40. Map 13 C1.
∑ raspoutine.com Yoyo Gay and Lesbian Tel 01 48 87 25 71.
Le Montana Palais de Tokyo, Venues ∑ boite-a-frissons.fr
13 Ave du President
28 Rue St-Benoît 75006. Wilson 750016.
Map 12 E3. Map 10 E1. 3W Kafé
Tel 01 53 63 79 20. ∑ yoyo-paris.com 8 Rue des Ecouffes 75004.
Map 13 C3.
Silencio DJ Bars Tel 01 48 87 39 26.
142 Rue Montmartre
75002. Carmen La Champmeslé
14 Rue Duperré 75009.
Map 13 A1. Map 6 E2. 4 Rue Chabanais 75002.
Tel 01 40 13 12 33. Tel 01 45 26 50 00. Map 12 E1.
∑ silencio-club.com ∑ le-carmen.fr Tel 01 42 96 85 20.



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Cinema
Paris can justifiably claim to be one of the world’s capitals of area. The Rue Champollion is
film appreciation. More than 370 screens within the city limits, an exception. It has enjoyed a
distributed among over 100 cinemas and multiplexes, screen revival as a mini­district for
art and repertory films.
a fabulous cornu copia of films, both brand-new and classic. Further to the south, Mont­
American movies share the limelight with home-grown parnasse remains a lively district
dramas and comedies, and virtually every filmmaking industry for new films in both dubbed
in the world has found a niche in the city’s art houses. Cinemas and subtitled prints.
change their programmes on Wednesdays. The cheapest For specific cinema venues
see the Directory on page 348.
practical guides to what’s on are Pariscope and L’Officiel des
Spectacles (see p332) with complete cinema listings and
timetables for some 300 films. Films shown in subtitled original Big Screens and
language versions are coded “VO” (version originale); dubbed Picture Palaces
films are coded “VF” (version française). Most children’s films are Among surviving landmark
shown in VF during the day. Paris’s Film Festival is held for one cinemas are two Grands
Boulevards venues, the 2,800­
week in late June/early July. The system is that you pay full seat Le Grand Rex, with its
price for one film, after which a special card gives access to Baroque decor, and the Max
unlimited films at just €3 a ticket, for the duration of the festival. Linder Panorama, which was
refurbished by a group of
independent film buffs in
Movements in Cinema same is true of The Da Vinci the 1980s for both popular
Paris was the cradle of the Code, also featuring Amélie and art film programming.
cinematograph over 100 years star Audrey Tautou. The massive 14­screen MK2
ago, when Auguste and Louis Bibliothèque cinema (plus bar,
Lumière invented the early film shops and exhibition space) has
projector. Their screening of Cinema Zones opened up in the revitalized
L’Arrivée d’un Train en Gare de La Most Paris cinemas are 13th arrondisse ment, and just
Ciotat (Arrival of a Train at la concentrated in several cinema across the river, the UGC Ciné-
Ciotat Station) in Paris in 1895 is belts, which enjoy the added Cité Bercy cinema complex is
considered by many to mark appeal of nearby restaurants well worth a visit too.
the birth of the medium. The and shops. The Champs­Elysées In the Cité des Sciences
French reverence for film as a remains the densest cinema et de l’Industrie at La Villette,
true art form is based on a strip in town, where you can see scientific films are shown at
theory of one of the world’s first the latest Hollywood smash hit La Géode (see p240). This has
film critics, Ricciotto Canudo, an or French auteur triumph, as a hemispheric screen (once
Italian intellectual living in well as some classic reissues, in the world’s largest) and an
France, who dubbed cine­ subtitled original­language “omnimax” projector which uses
matography “the Seventh Art” in versions. Cinemas in the Grands 70­mm film shot horizon tally to
1922. The title holds true even Boulevards, in the vicinity of the project an image which is nine
today. The city was of course Opéra de Paris Garnier, show times larger than the standard
also the incubator of that very films in both subtitled and 35­mm print. Along the Canal
Parisian vanguard movement, dubbed versions. Boulevard de St­Martin, MK2’s twin cinema
the New Wave, when film Clichy is home to two Pathé complexes – Quai de la Loire
directors such as Claude multiplexes with a total of and Quai de la Seine – are
Chabrol, François Truffaut, Jean­ 12 screens showing current linked by a canal boat.
Luc Godard and Eric Rohmer in dubbed, French and VO
the late 1950s and early 1960s releases. A major hub of Right
revolution ized the way films Bank cinema activity is in the Revival and Repertory
Houses
were made and perceived. The Forum des Halles shopping mall.
exploration of existential The Left Bank, historically Each week, more than 150
themes, the use of long tracking associated with the city’s intel­ titles representing the best
shots and the rejection of lectual life, remains the centre of of world cinema can be seen.
studios for outside locations are the art and repertory cine mas. For old Hollywood films, the
some of the characteristics of Yet, it has equally as many of the independent Grand Action
New Wave film. In 2001, the latest block busters. Since the mini­chain can’t be beaten.
success of Amélie Poulain 1980s, many cinemas in the Other active and thoughtful
revitalized the Parisian film­ Latin Quarter have closed down repertory and reissue venues
making scene; many of its and the main centre for Left include the excellent Reflets
locations are easy to spot as Bank theatres is now the Médicis screens in the Rue
you walk around town. The Odéon­St­Germain­des­Prés Champollion and Les




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ENTER T AINMENT IN P ARIS  347


Fauvettes, the latter showing a programmes and festivals are Films Starring
mix of contemporary releases integral parts of two highly Paris
and modern and vintage popular Paris cultural
classics. Studio 28 in Mont- institutions, the Musée d’Orsay Historical Paris
(studio-made)
martre is a lovely old movie (see pp146–9) and the Pompi-
house with lights in the theatre dou Centre (see pp110 –13) with An Italian Straw Hat
(René Clair, 1927)
designed by Jean Cocteau and its two screening rooms. The
a charming garden bar full of Musée d’Orsay regularly Sous les toits de Paris
fairy lights and kitsch cut-outs schedules film pro grammes (René Clair, 1930)
of old film stars. Opened in the to complement current art Les Misérables
1920s, Studio 28 claims to be exhibitions and is usually (Raymond Bernard, 1934)
the first ever avant-garde restricted to silent films. The Hôtel du Nord
cinema and once played host to Pompidou Centre organizes vast (Marcel Carné, 1937)
film greats such as Luis Buñuel month-long retrospectives, Les Enfants du Paradis
and Abel Gance. They screen devoted to national film (Marcel Carné, 1945)
everything from the latest industries and on occasion to Casque d’Or
releases through to Fellini some of the major companies. (Jacques Becker, 1952)
festivals and documentary Finally, the Forum des Images La Traversée de Paris
shows. There are at least ten (see p115) in the heart of Les (Claude Autant-Lara, 1956)
films screened here each week, Halles is a hi-tech film and video Playtime
including art-house classics and library with a vast selection of (Jacques Tati, 1967)
pre-releases. The cinema also films and documentaries New Wave Paris
holds regular debates with well- featuring the city of Paris from (location-made)
known directors and actors. the late 19th century to the Breathless
Another Paris institution, Cinema present day. The archives here (Jean-Luc Godard, 1959)
Studio Galande has shown the are amazing and include news- Les 400 coups
Rocky Horror Picture Show to reels and advertisements (François Truffaut, 1959)
costumed movie-goers every featuring Paris alongside the
Friday night for over 30 years. feature films and documen taries. Documentary Paris
The Forum has three cinemas, all Paris 1900
of which run daily screenings of (Nicole Vedrès, 1948)
Cinémathèque Française
feature films. One ticket allows La Seine a rencontré Paris
The private “school” of the New the visitor access to both the (Joris Ivans, 1957)
Wave generation, this famous video library and to the cinema Paris as Seen by Hollywood
film archive and repertory screenings. The screenings are Seventh Heaven
cinema was created by Henri frequently grouped according to (Frank Borzage, 1927)
Langlois in 1936 (see p348). It theme or director, making it Camille
has lost its mono poly on classic possible to spend several hours (George Cukor, 1936)
film screenings, but it is still a enjoy ing a mini-retrospective. An American in Paris
must for cine philes in search See website for details. (Vincente Minnelli, 1951)
of that rare film no longer in Gigi
theatrical circulation or, perhaps, Ticket Prices (Vincente Minnelli, 1958)
recently restored or rescued.
The association is now housed Expect to pay around €10–12 Irma La Douce
(Billy Wilder, 1963)
at 51 Rue de Bercy in a at first-run venues or even more
wonderfully futuristic-looking for films of unusual length or Paris when it Sizzles
(Richard Quine, 1964)
building designed by Frank special media attention.
Gehry. The sail-like façade has However, exhibitors practise Frantic (Roman Polanski, 1988)
given the building its nickname: a wide array of collective French Kiss
“dancer revealing her tutu”. The discount incentives, including (Lawrence Kasdan, 1995)
film library has more than cut-rate admissions for students, The Ninth Gate
18,000 digitalized movies, and the unemployed, the elderly, (Roman Polanski, 1999)
there are enough exhibitions, former soldiers and large Moulin Rouge
projections, lectures and work - families. Wednesday is discount (Baz Luhrmann, 2001)
shops to satisfy the appetite of day for everybody at some The Bourne Identity
any film enthusiast. For those cinemas – prices are slashed (Doug Liman, 2002)
interested in the building’s to as low as €4. Before Sunset
architecture, there are tours on France’s three exhibition (Richard Linklater, 2004)
the first Sunday of each month. giants, Gaumont, UGC and The Da Vinci Code
MK2, also sell special discount (Ron Howard, 2006)
cards and accept credit card Hugo (Martin Scorsese, 2011)
Non-Theatrical Venues
reservations for their flagship Midnight in Paris
In addition to the Ciné- houses, while repertory houses (Woody Allen, 2011)
mathèque Française, film issue “fidelity” cards.


334-351_EW_Paris.indd 347 03/04/17 2:54 pm

348  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Film Festivals
Film festivals are a way of life for Parisian movie buffs. There Indoor Festivals
are several major events each year and many small themed During the annual Paris Film
festivals at any given time around the city. The annual Paris Festival, over 100 films are
Film Festival (Fête du Cinema), in late June/early July, may be shown at the Gaumont
Marignon on the Champs-
dwarfed by its glitzier sister in Cannes, but the capital’s version Elysées. The city’s gay and
is a far friendlier event for the public to attend – and there are lesbian film festival at the
still more than enough opportunities to spot celebrities. Forum des Images usually
takes place in November. Paris
Tout Court is an impressive
Open-Air Festivals Le Cinéma en Plein Air which short film festival held at the
There are several outdoor draws crowds to a lawn in La Arlequin in St-Germain which
cinema festivals throughout Villette (see pp238–9), where a also stages lectures and
the summer, including the giant inflatable screen shows meetings with renowned
Festival Silhouette which old and contemporary classics. directors and artists. Other
shows short films in the lovely This is one of the summer’s film festivals include the
Buttes Chaumont (see p236), most popular events, so be L’Etrange festival, which
the Cinéma au Clair de Lune sure to get there early and shows weird and wonderful
festival which has projections don’t forget to take a hamper offbeat films from around
of films at Parisian sites which full of goodies to nibble on the world to enthusiastic
are relevant to the movie, and throughout the movie. audiences.
DIRECTORY
Cinemas Le Desperado Champs 75006. Le Nouvel Odeon
23 Rue des Ecoles Map 16 E2. 6 Rue de l’Ecole de
Arlequin 75005. Map 13 A5. Tel 01 45 44 57 34.
76 Rue de Rennes 75006. Tel 01 43 25 72 07. ∑ lucernaire.fr Médecine 75006.
Map 12 F4.
Map 12 E4.
Tel 01 45 44 28 80. Les Fauvettes Luminor – Tel 01 46 33 43 71.
58 Avenue des Gobelins Hotel de Ville ∑ nouvelodeon.com
Le Balzac 75013. Map 17 B3. 20 Rue du Temple 75004.
1 Rue Balzac 75008. Tel 08 92 69 66 96. Map 13 C2. Reflets Médicis
Map 4 E4. ∑ studiogalande.fr Tel 01 42 78 47 86. 3 Rue Champollion
Tel 01 45 61 10 60. La Filmothèque du Majestic Bastille 75005. Map 12 F5.
∑ cinemabalzac.com Quartier Latin 2–4 Blvd Richard Tel 01 43 54 42 34.
Centre Pompidou 9 Rue Champollion Lenoir 75011. St-Andre des Arts
19 Rue Beau bourg 75004. 75005. Map 12 F5. Map 14 E4. 30 Rue St-Andre des Arts
Tel 01 47 00 02 48.
Map 13 B2. Tel 01 43 26 70 38. (Salles 1&2) and 12 Rue
∑ lafilmotheque.fr
Tel 01 44 78 12 33. Max Linder Git-le-Coeur (Salle 3)
Forum des Images Panorama 75006. Map 12 F4.
Le Champo (See p115) 24 Blvd Poissonnière
51 Rue des Ecoles 75005. 75009. Map 7 A5. Tel 01 43 26 48 18.
Map 13 A5. Gaumont Marignan Tel 01 48 00 90 24. ∑ cinesaintandre.fr
27 Ave Champs-Elysées
Tel 01 43 54 51 60. ∑ maxlinder.com Studio 28
75008. Map 5 A5.
Christine 21 Tel 08 92 69 66 96. MK2 10 Rue Tholozé 75018.
4 Rue Christine 75006. La Géode Beaubourg: 50 Rue Map 6 E1.
Rambuteau 75003.
Map 12 F4. Tel 01 46 06 36 07.
26 Ave Corentin-Cariou Map 13 A2. ∑ cinema-studio28.fr
Cinémathèque 75019. Tel 01 40 05 79 99. Tel 08 92 69 84 84.
Française ∑ lageode.fr Bibliothèque: 128–162 UGC Ciné Cité Bercy
51 Rue de Bercy 75013. Grand Action Ave de France 75013. 2 Cour St-Emilion 75012.
Map 18 F4.
Tel 01 71 19 33 33. 5 Rue des Ecoles 75005. Tel 08 92 69 84 84. Tel 01 76 64 79 97.
∑ cinemateque.fr Map 13 B5. Quai de la Seine/ UGC Ciné-Cité
Tel 01 43 54 47 62. Quai de la Loire:
Cinema Studio 7 Quai de la Seine; Les Halles
Galande Le Grand Rex 14 Quai de la Loire Forum des Halles
42 Rue Galande 75005. (See p342 – Major Venues) 75019. Map 8 F1. Niveau -3 (level -3) 75001.
Map 13 A4. Lucernaire Tel 08 92 69 84 84. Map 13 A2.
Tel 01 43 54 72 71. 53 Rue Notre-Dame-des- ∑ mk2.com Tel 01 46 37 28 24.

334-351_EW_Paris.indd 348 03/04/17 2:54 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
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Date 17th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm