EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TH E
NETHERLANDS
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TH E
NETHERLANDS
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
THE
NETHERLANDS
Main Contributor Gerard M L Harmans
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CONTENTS
Produced by Van Reemst Uitgeverij/Unieboek bv How to use
Main Contributor Gerard M.L. Harmans this Guide 6
Design Studio Putto, De Rijp
Art Editor Dick Polman
Editorial (Dutch original) de Redactie, boekverzorgers, Amsterdam
Photographers
Max Alexander, Anwb Audiovisuele Dienst
(Thijs Tuurenhout), George Burggraaff, Jurjen Drenth,
Rubert Horrox, Kim Sayer, Herman Scholten
Illustrators
Hilbert Bolland, Jan Egas, Gieb van Enckevort,
Nick Gibbard, Mark Jurriëns, Maltings Partnership,
Derrick Stone, Khoobie Verwer, Martin Woodward
Cartography
Jane Hanson, Armand Haye, Lovell Johns Limited
(Oxford, UK), Phil Rose, Jennifer Skelley, Peter de Vries
Zeeland’s coat of arms
Picture Researcher Harry Bunk
Production Sarah Dodd
English-language adaptation produced by Introducing the
International Book Productions Inc.,
25a Morrow Ave, Toronto, Ontario M6R 2H9, Canada Netherlands
Managing Editor Barbara Hopkinson
Editor Judy Phillips Discovering the
DTP Designers Dietmar Kokemohr, Sean Gaherty
Netherlands 10
Printed and bound in China
First American edition 2003 Putting the Netherlands
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 on the Map 18
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
345 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014 A Portrait of the
Reprinted with revisions 2005, 2008, 2011, 2014, 2017 Netherlands 20
Copyright © 2003, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
The Netherlands
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval Through the Year 36
system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the
copyright owner and the above publisher of the book. The History of
A CIP catalogue record is available from the Library of Congress. the Netherlands 42
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-1-46546-029-5
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with
European usage; Ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level.
The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@dk.com.
Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665)
Front cover main image: Schermerhorn, North Holland, Netherlands by Johannes Vermeer (see p227)
Tulip fields with a windmill in the background
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LAYERS PRINTED:
Eyewitness Travel
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Imprint/Contents template
Imprint/Contents template V2 “UK” LAYER
“UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.3)
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Date 7th January 2013
Date 9th November 2006
Size 125mm x 217mm
Size 125mm x 217mm
Amsterdam
Introducing
Amsterdam 64
Oude Zijde 74
Nieuwe Zijde 86
Canal Ring 98
Museum Quarter 120
The 15th-century Koppelpoort in Amersfoort
Outside the
Centre 134 West Frisian Islands 268 Limburg 370
Shopping and Groningen 280 Travellers’ Needs
Entertainment 148
Friesland 294 Where to Stay 388
Street Finder 154
Drenthe 306 Where to Eat and
Drink 402
Overijssel 316
Shopping 416
Flevoland 326
Entertainment 422
Gelderland 334
Survival Guide
Southern
Thialf fans (see p304) Netherlands Practical Information 432
Western Introducing Travel Information 442
Netherlands the Southern
Netherlands 350 Index 450
Introducing
the Western North Brabant 358 Phrase Book 471
Netherlands 164
Road Map of the
North Holland 174 Netherlands
back endpaper
Utrecht 196
South Holland 212
Zeeland 246
Northern and
Eastern
Netherlands
Introducing the
Northern and Eastern The imposing Sint Jan
Netherlands 260 in ‘s-Hertogenbosch
(see pp364–5)
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6 HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
This guide helps you get the most from from architecture to tulip growing. They
your stay in the Netherlands. The first are accompanied by detailed and helpful
section, Introducing the Netherlands, places illustrations. Travellers’ Needs gives
the country on the map and puts it in its specifics on where to stay and where to
historical and cultural context. Chapters on eat and drink, while the Survival Guide
the provinces and the capital, Amsterdam, contains practical information on
describe the most important sights and everything from the public transport
places of interest. Features cover topics system to personal safety.
Amsterdam A MSTERD A M 75 Area Map
Amsterdam is divided OUDE ZIJDE of Jewish refugees from Portugal. The oldest 1This map is numbered
The eastern half of Amsterdam became
into five tourist areas. The known as the Oude Zijde (Old Side). of the four synagogues, now containing the to show the most important
Joods Historisch Museum, dates from this
Originally it occupied a narrow strip on
period. These were central to Jewish life
the east bank of the Amstel river, running
between Damrak and the Oudezijds in the city for centuries. During the Golden attractions. They are also given
corresponding chapters all Voorburgwal. At its heart was built the Oude Age (see pp54–5), the Oude Zijde was an
Kerk, the oldest church in the city. In the
important commercial centre. Boats could
early 15th century the Oude Zijde began an
sail up the Geldersekade to Nieuwmarkt,
begin with a list of numbered eastward expansion that continued into the where goods were weighed at the Waag in the Street Finder section
before being sold at the market.
1600s. This growth was fuelled by an influx
on pages 154–63.
sights and places of interest, Sights at a Glance Opera Houses t Portugees-Israëlitische Synagoge
Historic Buildings and
a Oude Kerk pp84–5
q Stadhuis-Muziektheater
Monuments
2 Waag
Museums
Streets and Markets
which are plotted on the Area 5 Agnietenkapel 4 Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum 1 Red Light District
6 Oudemanhuispoort
0 Museum het Rembrandthuis
3 Nieuwmarkt
7 De Waalse Kerk
r Joods Historisch Museum
w Waterlooplein
8 Trippenhuis
y Pintohuis Churches and Synagogues p Zeedijk
Map. The information for each u Montelbaanstoren 9 Zuiderkerk
e Mozes en Aäronkerk
i Scheepvaarthuis
o Schreierstoren
sight follows this numerical OUDEZIJDS KOLK A locator map places the
order, making sights easy to KORTE KROMME S E K A D E PRI N S HEND RI KKADE See also Street Finder district in the context of
maps 2 & 5
locate within the chapter. OUDE KERKS PL MONNIKEN NIEZEL MOLEN ST STR Z E E D I J K G E L D E R S E K A D E G E L D E R NIEUWE RIDDERSTRAAT O U D E B I N N E N K A N T SCHIPPERS STRAAT the rest of the city.
WAAL
VOORBURGWAL
O U D EZI J D S A C HTERB UR GWA L KOESTR BARNDEST BLOEDSTR MARKT NIEUW Nieuw- markt REC HT B RECHT BOOMSSLOOT Waalseilandsgracht KALKMARKT ‘S-GRAVENHEKJE PEPERSTRAAT
NIEUWE JONKERSTRAAT
W A A L
KROM BOOMSSLOOT
Sights at a Glance groups OUDEZIJDS O U D E Z I J D S A C H T E R B U R G W A L ST ANTONIESBREESTR A AT KRO M B O OMSSLOOT OOMSSL OOT KONINGS STR KORTE O U D E S C H A N S KADE OOSTERSE RAPENBURG FOELI E STRAAT PRINS HENDRIKKADE A recomm
NIEUWE FOELIESTR
OUDE
O U D E S C H A N S
HOOGSTR
the sights by category: RUSLAND SLIJKSTR K L O V E N I E R S B U R G W A L K L O V E N I E R S B U R G W A L RAAMGRACHT HOOGSTR NIEUWE Oudeschans NIEUWE UILENBURGERSTRAAT U i l e n b u r g e r g r a c h t SCHIPPERS GRACHT covers the most interesting
VA L K E N B U R G E R S T R A AT
historical buildings and VENDEL STR GROENBURGWAL G R O E N B U R G WA L RAAMGRACHT ZWANENBURGWAL WATERLOOPLEIN JODENHOUTTUINEN VA L K E N B U R G E R S T R A A T ANNE F RANKSTR streets in the area.
R A P E N B U R G E R S T R A A T
J ODENB RE E STRA AT
monuments, streets, NIEUWE DOELENSTR STAAL STAAL KADE STR Waterlooplein MR VISSER PLEIN MUIDERSTRAAT N I E U W E H E R E N G R A C H T
squares and gardens, A m s t e l WATERLOOPLEIN NIEUWE AMSTELSTR 0 metres 250
0 yards 250
museums and churches. The impressive Oude Kerk, Amsterdam’s oldest building A MSTERD A M For map symbols see back flap C ANAL RING 111
110
Street-by-Street: Around the Jordaan The name “House with the Heads” CANAL
4 Huis met de Hoofden
West of the Grachtengordel, the Jordaan Egelantiersgracht is refers to the six Classical busts at the RING
still retains a network of narrow, Jordaan canal over- Mars, Minerva, Bacchus and Diana. NIEUWE
entrance, depicting Apollo, Ceres,
a charming tree-lined
characterful streets and delightful canals. looked by an interesting ZIJDE OUDE ZIJDE
All pages about Among the 17th-century workers’ houses mixture of old and
are dozens of quirky shops, which are well
new architecture. Its
numerous bridges
worth a browse, selling anything from
Amsterdam are designer clothes to old sinks, and lively provide pretty views. Locator Map
See Street Finder map 1
brown cafés and bars, which spill onto
the pavements in summer. A stroll along
marked in red. the Grachtengordel provides a glimpse P R I N S E N G R A C H T
into some of the city’s grandest canal
houses, including the Bartolotti House.
E G E L A N T I E R S G R A C H T
Street-by-Street Map K E I Z E R S G R A C H T
2 This map gives a
detailed summary of the The quiet Levensverzekeringsbank
The Eerste Hollandsche
Bloemgracht
heart of the five main canal was once a B L O E M G R A C H T P R I N S E N G R A C H T façade, is a rare example
building, with its fine
centre for makers
of paint and dye.
of Dutch Art Nouveau,
designed by Gerrit van
tourist areas of the city. K E I Z E R S G R A C H T L E L I E G R A C H T Arkel in 1905.
Key 2. Homomonument
Recommended route The pink triangle used
to “brand” homosexual
men during World War II
3 . Westerkerk 1 . Anne Frank Huis influenced the design
Hendrick de Keyser’s church is the For two years, the Frank family 0 metres 75 of this memorial to
site of Rembrandt’s unmarked and four others lived in a small oppressed gay men and
grave and was the setting for upstairs apartment that was 0 yards 75 women everywhere.
the wedding of Queen Beatrix hidden behind a revolving It was unveiled in
and Prince Claus in 1966. bookcase (see pp112–13). September 1987.
144 A MSTERD A M OUT SIDE THE CENTRE 145
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp396–7 and pp406–9
q Frankendael r Heineken
Middenweg 72. Map 6 F5. v 9. Experience
@ 41, 65, 101, 136, 152, 157. Stadhouderskade 78. Map 4 F3.
Open dawn–dusk. Tel 020-523 9222. v 7, 10, 16,
During the early part of the 18th 24. Open 11am–5:30pm daily. Stars indicate sights that
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 =
century, many of Ams terdam’s Under 18s with parents only.
wealthier citizens built country ∑ heinekenexperience.com
retreats south of Plantage should not be missed.
Middenlaan on reclaimed land This historic 1867 building once
called the Watergraafsmeer. housed the Heineken brewery.
The elegant Louis XIV-style Now it offers an exhibition of
Frankendael is the last survivor. how beer is made, culminating
The house is closed to the in a tasting room where you can
public; the best views of the have a drink.
ornamented façade are from Interior of Amsterdam RAI with a trade fair in progress
Middenweg. This is also the best
place to view the fountain made t Huizenblok De y Verzetsmuseum deportation of the Jews, are
in 1714 by Ignatius van Logteren Dageraad Plantage Kerklaan 61. Map 6 D2. brought to life by exhibits
(1685–1732), a sculptor who, Pieter Lodewijk Takstraat. v 4, 12, 25. Tel 020-6202535. v 9, 14. showing where the refugees
along with his son, played a Closed to the public. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, hid and how food for them was
central role in the development 11am–5pm Mon & Sat. Closed 1 Jan, smuggled in.
of Amsterdam’s Louis XIV style. One of the best examples 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7 8 - 0
The rear gardens have been of Amsterdam School ∑ verzetsmuseum.org
restored and are open to the architecture (see pp146–7), u Amsterdam RAI
public. Behind the house is a De Dageraad (the Dawn) Previously based in a former Europaplein. Tel 0900-2678373.
small formal garden, and housing project was devel- synagogue in Nieuw Zuid (New v 4. q £ RAI. @ 62, 65.
beyond lies a landscaped, oped for poorer families South), now at a site in the Open depending on exhibition.
English-style garden. There are The ornamental façade of Frankendael House following the Housing Act Plantage, the Resistance Museum Enquiries: 8:30am–5:30pm Mon–Fri.
also allotment gardens. The of 1901, by which the city holds a fascinating collection of & ^ 7 with assistance. ∑ rai.nl Detailed Information
coach house is now home to decorated with symbols of America. Gerrit Schouten’s council condemned slums memorabilia recording the
café-restaurant Merkelbach. imperialism, such as stone 1819 diorama made of papier- and rethought housing policy. activities of Dutch Resistance Amsterdam RAI is one of the
friezes of peasants planting rice. mâché and painted wood Architect HP Berlage drew up workers in World War II. It was set largest exhibition and con-
Upon completion of the depicts life in Suriname. plans for the suburbs, aiming up by former members of the ference centres in the country. It 3All main attractions are
building’s renovation in 1978, to integrate rich and poor by Resistance and focuses on the hosts over 1,000 events annually,
the Royal Tropical Institute e Hermitage juxtaposing their housing. courage of the 25,000 people from cabaret to horse shows
opened a museum, with a huge Amsterdam After Berlage’s death, Piet actively involved in the move- and trade fairs. The first
cen tral hall and three levels of Kramer and Michel de Klerk ment. False documents, weap- Amsterdam trade fair was a described individually,
gall eries. The institute’s aims are Amstel 51. Map 8 E5. Tel 0900 437 adopted his ideas. From onry, film clips, photo graphs and bicycle exhibition in 1893.
to study and to help improve 648243. v 4, 9, 14. q Waterlooplein. 1918–23, they designed this equipment are on display. Subsequent shows included
popu lations of the tropics. The
event known as the “RAI” (Rijwiel
housing associ ation.
daily (to 8pm Wed). & free for under
Ignatius van Logteren’s fountain in the the lives of the indigenous 4 Muziektheater. Open 10am–5pm complex for the De Dageraad By 1945 there were 300,000 cars and became an annual including their addresses,
people in hiding in the Nether-
grounds of the Frankendael dis plays focus on develop ment 16s. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. 7 lands, including Jews and Automobiel Industrie).
issues regarding daily life, anti-Nazi Dutch. Subsequent
0 - = ∑ hermitage.nl
w Tropenmuseum education and colonization. In the early 1990s the State events organized by the i De Pijp/Albert opening hours and other
Resis tance, like the February
The impressive mask collection
Cuypmarkt
Linnaeusstraat 2. Map 6 E3. includes feathered fertility Hermitage Museum in Strike against the
Tropenmuseum: Tel 020-5688200. masks from Zaire and carved St Petersburg, Russia, chose Albert Cuypstraat. Map 5 A5. v 4, 16,
Open 10am–5pm daily, 10am–3pm wooden masks from Central Amsterdam as the ideal city 24. Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat.
5 Dec, 24 Dec, 31 Dec. in which to open a satellite practical information. Keys to
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 5 May, 25 Dec. museum displaying tem porary The Albert Cuypmarkt, part of
∑ tropenmuseum.nl exhibitions drawn from the the De Pijp area, began trading
Tropenmuseum Junior: Tel 020- Hermitage’s rich collection. It in 1904 and is still going strong,
5688233. Open for special is housed in the former with over 325 stalls selling the symbols used are on the
programmes in Dutch language only Amstelhof – a shelter for poor flowers, clothing, poultry, fish
(phone or see website). Closed As elderly women – and opened in and other items. De Pijp, once a
Tropenmuseum. v 9, 14. & 7 8 2004 with a spectacular poor working class sector, has
0 - = ∑ kindermuseum.nl exhibition of fine Greek gold turned into one of the city’s back flap of this book.
2nd century BC. The museum,
Built to house the Dutch jewellery from the 6th to the liveliest areas. The rest of the area
has gentrified and now features
Colonial Institute, this vast which has an auditorium and a designer bars, restaurants and
complex was finished in children’s wing, also has a fine trendy shops, while Sarphatipark
1926 by architects MA and Balinese tiger protector mask and model at restaurant, Neva, which is open is a haven of tranquility amidst
J Nieuwkerken. The exterior is the Tropenmuseum to non-visitors. Imposing corner block of De Dageraad public housing the hustle and bustle.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp396–397 and pp406–409
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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
How to use this book (Source v1.2) “UK” LAYER
Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE 7
Introduction
NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS 335 The Netherlands
GELDERLAND 1The scenery, history
Gelderland is The Netherland’s largest province. Its name and character of each Area by Area
derives from the 11th-century county of Gelre, which
was linked with the town of Geldern, just over the
border in Germany. The town was the fiefdom of Gerard province are outlined
de Rossige, whose grandson Gerard II of Wassenberg The Netherlands is divided into 12
pronounced himself Count of Gelre in 1104.
Succeeding counts skilfully expanded that welcome visitors throughout the here, showing how provinces. Each of these provinces,
their territory to include the Veluwe region province. In more recent times, the region,
to the north, the Betuwe in the southwest and especially the strategically located the area has changed
and the county of Zutphen (see p345). towns of Arnhem and Nijmegen, saw
When in 1248 the imperial town of Nijmegen heavy fighting towards the end of World together with Amsterdam and the
was annexed, Gelre became a power to War II. The heroic action at Arnhem is through the centuries,
be reckoned with. A number of its towns remembered in the town’s Airborne
joined the Hanseatic League, and in 1339 Museum, while the museum in Nijmegen Wadden Islands, are dealt with in
the county was promoted to a duchy by recalls this town’s long history from and what it has to offer
the German emperor. The increasing pre-Roman times to the tyranny of the
power of the Habsburgs threatened the Holy Roman Empire.
independence of the Gelders, eventually While visitors can enjoy many modern today’s visitor. separate chapters. The most inter
leading to the duke having to cede the attractions, perhaps Gelderland’s greatest
territory in 1543 to Charles V. Gelderland asset is its contrasting natural scenery,
thus became part of the Netherlands. which ranges from heaths and woodlands esting towns, villages and places are
This colourful history is manifest in the north to the beautiful Betuwe river
today in the number of medieval buildings, valley and the pretty agricultural region
churches, castles and fortified towns of the Achterhoek. shown on the Regional Map.
296 NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS FRIESLAND 297
Exploring Friesland
Friesland is famous for its vast meadows and its distinctive
farmhouses of the kop-hals-romp and stelp types. It also
boasts a varied landscape. In the southwest are the popular Lauwersoog
Friese meren (Frisian lakes), while the north is typified by Anjum
undulating dykes, terp villages and church steeples with Holwerd Lauwers
pitched roofs. Gaasterland in the south has rolling woodlands Meer
and cliffs, whereas the Friese wouden (Frisian woods) in the The sea dyke at Wierum Ferwerd DOKKUM
province’s southeastern corner, with their forests, heathland
and drifting sands, are more reminiscent of Drenthe.
A 17th-century granary near Winterswijk Damwoude Kollum
St. Annaparochie
View of the old Dutch city of Nijmegen
Sights at a Glance Stiens Dokkumer Ee The terp of Hogbeintum, west of Dokkum, the
1 Leeuwarden Buitenpost highest in Friesland
2 Dokkum Veenwouden
3 Franeker Sexbierum Menaldum
4 Harlingen
5 Bolsward FRANEKER Dronrijp LEEUWARDEN Bergumer-
6 Workum Bergum Meer Surhuisterveen 0 kilometres 10
7 Hindeloopen HARLINGEN 0 miles 5
8 Gaasterland
9 Sloten
Regional Map 0 Sneek Wommels Wieuwerd Prinses Margriet Ka naal Earnewâld
OUDE VENEN
q Thialfstadion
e Beetsterzwaag
2This map shows the w Oude Venen Grou FRIESLAND Drachten
r Appelscha
Makkum BOLSWARD BEETSTERZWAAG
main roads and SNEEK Akkrum Donkerbroek
the main tourist WORKUM Joure Gorredijk Oosterwolde
attractions of an area, HINDELOOPEN Fluessen Heerenveen THIALFSTADION Oldeberkoop APPELSCHA
and also gives useful The Noorderhaven in Harlingen Stavoren Koudum Balk Sloter Meer SLOTEN Tjeukemeer Wolvega Noordwolde Key
information about Getting Around Rijsterbos GAASTERLAND Lemmer Motorway
Oudemirdum
Major road
Friesland is convenient and easy to get to. Minor road
It is crossed by the A7 (east–west) and the
driving and rail travel. A32 (north–south) motorways. Rail and Scenic route
bus links are unproblematic. Most of the
Main railway
larger villages and towns have a railway Minor railway
station; those which don’t can be reached Regional border
by bus. From Harlingen, Holwerd or
Lauwersoog, the islands are only a short
boat ride away. The province also has a
good network of minor roads, walking
routes and cycle tracks.
Gabled houses along Het Diep in Sloten Picturesque Lindevallei at Wolvega, near Thialfstadion
For map symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and p413
Colour tabs are used to colour 276 NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS THE WEST FRISIAN ISLANDS 277
code each province a different E Oudheidkamer 4 De Slufter
Kogerstraat 1, Den Burg. Road Map B2. * none. g @
shade for easy reference. Tel 0222-313135. Open 1 Apr–31 Oct: Open all year, northern part closed
11am–5pm Mon–Fri, 2–4pm Sat.
1 Mar–1 Sep. n Emmalaan 66, Den
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Whitsun, 25, 26 &
31 Dec, public hols. & Burg (0222-314741).
The distinctive natural area of
De Slufter, consisting of salt
marshes covering 450 ha
(1,100 acres), is covered with
salt-loving plants such as sea
thrift and sea lavender, and is
an important breeding and
Detailed Information Noorderhaaks, above sea level at high tide for some decades now different bird species. De Slufter,
feeding ground for many
and the neighbouring De Muy,
1 Noorderhaaks
where spoonbills breed, are
Kogerstraat runs the length
3 Major sights and attractions are Road Map B2. * none. n Emmalaan of the Binnenburg. Located Beachcomber on Texel, the most populated magnificent rambling areas.
here is the Oudheidkamer,
of the Frisian Islands
66, Den Burg (0222-314741).
an antiquities museum set up
5 Den Hoorn
Noorderhaaks, also known as
in a picturesque 16th-century
described in detail in the order in Razende Bol (raging ball), is a building, which used to be a 3 De Koog Road Map B2. * 450. g @
doss-house. Today it contains
fairly bleak sandbank west of
Road Map B2. * 1300. g @
n Emmalaan 66, Den Burg (0222-
Den Helder, 2.5 km (1.5 miles)
314741). ( Jul–Aug: Thu.
period rooms, a display of
n Emmalaan 66, Den Burg
offshore. The sea currents cause
artifacts and works of art
(0222–314741). ( Jul–Aug: Tue.
which they are numbered on the the island to shift eastwards in the attic, and a herb garden. In 1900, the former fishing Like Den Burg, Den Hoorn Salt-loving plants thriving at the water’s edge, De Slufter
Along and around the town
towards Texel, after which
stands on boulder clay. It has a
another “raging ball” appears at
wall are several interesting
distinctive Hervormde kerk
settlement of De Koog consisted
shopping streets, such as the
the same point off Den Helder.
of a church (built in 1415) and
(Protestant church) with a
Regional Map. Within each entry is The Dutch air force occasionally Weverstraat. A number of a few houses and farms. The first pointed steeple and church- Unlike the other islands, Vlieland 19th-century paintings. The
uses the island for target practice,
yard dating from 1425. This
tourist facility was the Badhotel,
excellent restaurants are to be
but it is not off-limits for visitors.
exquisitely restored village has
consists only of dunes, covered
later the Hotel Prinses Juliana,
houses are separated by alleys
found on the Warmoesstraat.
with a garden overlooking
Rowing and swimming here
been given protected status.
with a purple haze of heather,
known as “gloppen”. There is no
detailed information on buildings, are risky because of the powerful Environs the sea. Today, De Koog has 6 Vlieland marram grass and sea buckthorn. room for cars here, not even for
In the east, the woods planted
currents. Adventure-seekers
those of the islanders.
South of Den Burg is a sloping
accommodation for 20,000
regularly visit Noorderhaaks
just after 1900 provide a bit of
landscape with the 15 m (50 ft)
The best way to explore
visitors in hotels, pensions and
by boat or by helicopter,
variety in the landscape.
camp sites. The centre of De
Vlieland is by bicycle; the island
Hoge Berg (high mountain),
Road Map C1. * 1,000. g
parks, museums and other sights. unable to resist this piece of which offers a great view of the Koog is the Dorpsstraat, n Havenweg 10, Oost-Vlieland In the south is the only village, can be covered in one day. From
Oost-Vlieland, where the boat
total wilderness, where mirages
which has cafés, snack bars
Oost-Vlieland, you can cycle
(0562-451111).
island. For a good walk, follow
the Skille paadje from the tomb
from Harlingen docks. Many old
west wards along tracks through
and discos. De Koog’s attractions
are common.
of the Georgiers (resistance for visitors are the Calluna Vlieland is the smallest of the buildings line the main street. the dunes or along the Wadde-
fighters who died fighting the waterpark and EcoMare, Waddenzee Islands. In some One of them, the Tromp’s Huys nzee shoreline to the Posthuys
2 Den Burg Germans in 1945) to the fishing an information centre for places, less than one kilometre (1576), used to belong to the (post house), where in the 17th
village of Oudeschild, past the the Waddenzee and the (half a mile) separates the Amsterdam Admiralty. Today it century the overseas mail was
Road Map B2. * 6,000. g @ peat walls and sheep pens. North Sea (see p427). Waddenzee and the North Sea. houses a museum with brought from Amsterdam to be
n Emmalaan 66 (0222-314741). loaded onto ships waiting to sail.
( Mon am; Jul–Aug: Wed.
Further westwards is de Vliehors,
Den Burg is the main town of an area of natural interest which
Texel and situated right in its can be explored if no military
centre. Around 1300, the village exercises are taking place here.
was fortified by a circular Beware of get ting stuck in the
rampart with a moat, which are soft drifting sand. This is also
Story boxes explore now marked by the Burgwal where the wealthy village of
and Parkstraat Streets. A sheep
West-Vlieland once stood. It was
market was once held in April consumed by the waves after it
specific topics. and May at the Groeneplats, was abandoned in 1736.
Den Burg’s main square, with the
E Tromp’s Huys
present-day town hall. Today, a
sheep day is held on the first Dorpsstraat 99, Oost-Vlieland.
Monday of September. Further Tel 0562-451600. Open school hols:
on, by the Binnenburg, or inner 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Sat, 2–4pm
castle, stands the 15th-century Sun; outside school hols: 2–5pm Tue–
Late Gothic Hervormde kerk Thu, 10am–1pm Fri, 2–5pm Sat.
(Protestant church). The The Nederlands-Hervormde church in Den Burg (1481) The village hall in Oost-Vlieland Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Pentecost. &
ZEELAND 251
250 WESTERN NE THERLANDS For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp398–9 and p412
1 Oosterschelde Concrete Piers VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The piers were
Stormvloedkering made on the Practical Information
artificial island of
Throughout the centuries, the history of the Netherlands Neeltje Jans and Road Map A4–5. Deltapark
Neeltje Jans, Faelweg 5,
has been dominated by its people’s struggle against the then transported Vrouwenpolder.
by special barges
sea. After the disastrous floods of 1953, which hit Zeeland The Windsock to their destination. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5:30pm
heavily, the battle to remove the danger of the sea once When the windsock is full, a This mighty task daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Wed,
Sat & Sun. & 7 - 0 =
and for all was undertaken in earnest. Now the Dutch seem warning is sounded, and people attracted a great Transport Visitors’ Checklist gives
deal of attention.
to have minimized the threat of flooding by building are advised to avoid driving over @ 133.
dykes and dams and closing off tidal inlets, all of which the dams and bridges between
the islands. Vigilance saves lives.
has had a major impact on the landscape.
practical information to
The Delta Works help you plan your visit.
The Delta Works have had far-
reaching consequences for the
landscape and environment. The
Zeeland islands, having been
joined to the mainland, are no
longer isolated.
Storms
Storms are a part of everyday life
in Zeeland: storms on the beach
or over the flat polders, storms Half-open Buttress Dam
which blow the cobwebs away
and storms which make you fear It took 13 years and €3.6 billion (two-thirds
for your life. of the cost of the Delta Works) to build the
Oosterschelde kering. After much deliberation,
the decision was made to keep open the
estuary and to preserve the salty estuary
habitat. A half-open multiple buttress dam
was built, with 62 sliding gates, which are
closed on average once a year during heavy
The Fateful Night of 1953 storms. This keeps the water salty and has The Top Sights
preserved the unique salt marshes and mud
On the night of 31 January 1953, flats of the Oosterschelde.
an event considered impossible in
modern times occurred. A combination
of spring tides and storms breached KEY 4These sights are described on
the dykes and washed them away 1 Concrete piers bear the sea wall.
as loose sand. A total of 1,835 people
lost their lives. 2 The sliding gates are closed only
when the water is high. two or more pages. Cutaway
3 A road has been built over
Deltapark Neeltje Jans the dam.
This attraction has been built on an artificial island, Neeltje Jans, on 4 Ground protection prevents the illustrations and floor plans show
earth from being washed away.
which the piers for the Oosterschelde Stormvloedkering (storm
surge barrier) were assembled, then taken by special barges to their 5 The piers rest on
positions. Now that task is finished, the island is being used mainly for solid foundations.
recreational and informative the most important buildings,
purposes. At the Deltapark
you can find out about the
Delta projects and about how
the barrier works. You can see museums and other sights.
the barrier from the inside,
and then take a boat trip to Luctor et Emergo
view it from the outside. This Latin motto meaning
There is an aquarium here, “I struggle and emerge The Terps
as well as a seal show; you victorious” is on Zeeland’s Man-made mounds,
can also experience a coat of arms, which depicts such as these near Borssele,
simulated hurricane in the the Netherlands lion half in were built in the 11th and 12th
“hurricane machine”. Neeltje Jans, educating visitors about the sea the water. This was wholly centuries to protect farms and
appropriate for 1953. villages from the water.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp411–12
006-007_EW_Netherlands.indd 7 16/01/17 11:53 am
008-009_EW_Netherlands.indd 8 16/01/17 12:02 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
INTRODUCING
THE
NETHERLANDS
Discovering the Netherlands 10–17
Putting the Netherlands on
the Map 18–19
A Portrait of the Netherlands 20–35
The Netherlands Through
the Year 36–41
The History of the
Netherlands 42–63
008-009_EW_Netherlands.indd 9 16/01/17 12:02 pm
10 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
DISCOVERING THE
NETHERLANDS
The following itineraries have been designed the more rural province of Friesland
to include as many of the country’s highlights and the islands that lie just offshore.
as possible, while keeping long-distance The third suggested itinerary is a circular tour
travel manageable. First come three two-day beginning and ending in Amsterdam, which
tours of the Netherlands’ most important takes in the quiet towns on the eastern side
cities: Amsterdam, The Hague and Utrecht. of the country. The fourth tour is a linear
Visitors can combine these into a single six- cycle route threading through the towns and
day tour by catching a train to the next city. countryside along the River IJssel; this last
Next come four, seven-day tours. The first of itinerary can also be followed by car. Pick,
these covers the principal cities in the south, combine and follow your favourite tours,
WEST FRI SIA N ISL AN DS Nes Lauwersoog Pieterburen Uithuizen
while the second ventures further north to or simply dip in and out and be inspired. Ameland
Hollum
Terschelling
A Week in the South Oost- West-Terschelling Holwerd
Vlieland Waddenzee Dokkum GRONINGEN
• See beautiful paintings • Visit the handsome 0 kilometres 20
Vlieland
displayed at Haarlem’s old houses of the 0 miles 20 Leeuwarden Groningen
Frans Hals Museum. Delfshaven, Rotterdam’s Harlingen
• Learn about the ancient earliest harbour.
culture of the Egyptians • See the superb stained- FRIESLAND
at Rijksmuseum van glass windows in
Oudheden in Leiden. Gouda’s St Janskerk. Sneek
• Admire the wonderful • Don’t miss the Den Oever
blooms of the spectacular sight of Hindeloopen
Keukenhof gardens 19 vintage windmills
near Leiden. at Kinderdijk. DRENTHE
NORTH IJsselmeer
HOLLAND De Weerribben
North Zuiderzeemuseum Giethoorn
Sea Hoorn Enkhuizen Vollenhove
Urk
Alkmaar Schokland Staphorst
Markermee r Museum
Edam Kampen Vecht
Volendam Lelystad Zwolle
Marken FLEVOLAND Elburg OVERIJSSEL
Haarlem IJssel
Veluwemeer
Amsterdam Sallandse Heuvelrug
Keukenhof Deventer
GELDERLAND
Leiden Amersfoort
UTRECHT Kröller-Müller Zutphen
The Hague SOUTH Museum
HOLLAND National Park de Bronkhorst
Hoge Veluwe
Gouda
Delft Lek Arnhem
Lower R hine
Rotterdam
Kinderdijk Waal
Keukenhof Gardens, Lisse Waal
Colourful blossoms at the Keukenhof flower gardens, Dordrecht
located near the small town of Lisse
in South Holland
View of Delft (1660) – a masterpiece by Johannes Vermeer
010-011_EW_Netherlands.indd 10 14/03/2017 15:04
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Country itinerary map template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1)
Date 26th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
DISC OVERING THE NE THERLANDS 11
A Circular Tour from
A Week in the North and the Islands
Amsterdam
• Explore the culture of • Relax in one of the • Learn about the strong
the Zuiderzee at the country’s prettiest seafaring traditions of the
Zuiderzeemuseum villages – tiny Dutch at the pretty little
in Enkhuizen. Hindeloopen. village of Urk.
• Drive along the 32-km • Cycle the quiet byways • Don’t miss the Schokland
Afsluitdijk, built of the island of Vlieland. Museum, which showcases
between 1927 and • Visit the Groninger the remains of the former
1933, and enjoy the Museum, the finest art Zuiderzee island.
spectacular views. gallery in Groningen. • Take a boat ride among the
peaty canals of beautiful
Giethoorn.
• Saunter the streets of the
WEST FRI SIA N ISL AN DS Nes Lauwersoog Pieterburen Uithuizen • See the Mondriaanhuis,
well-preserved historic town
of Elburg.
Ameland
Hollum
Terschelling
where Dutch painter Piet
Oost- West-Terschelling Holwerd Dokkum Mondriaan was born.
Vlieland Waddenzee GRONINGEN
Vlieland
Leeuwarden Groningen
Harlingen
FRIESLAND
Sneek
Den Oever
Hindeloopen
DRENTHE
NORTH IJsselmeer
HOLLAND De Weerribben
North Zuiderzeemuseum Giethoorn
Sea Hoorn Enkhuizen Vollenhove Key
Urk
Alkmaar Schokland Staphorst A Week in the South
Markermee r Museum A Week in the North and
Edam Kampen Vecht the Islands
Volendam Lelystad Zwolle A Circular Tour from
Amsterdam
Marken FLEVOLAND Elburg OVERIJSSEL A Cycling Tour of the
Veluwemeer
Haarlem IJssel River IJssel
Amsterdam Sallandse Heuvelrug
Keukenhof Deventer
GELDERLAND
Leiden Amersfoort A Cycling Tour of the River IJssel
UTRECHT Kröller-Müller Zutphen
The Hague SOUTH Museum
HOLLAND National Park de Bronkhorst • Explore the heaths and • Enjoy the small-town
Hoge Veluwe
Gouda woods of the National charms of Zutphen
Delft Lek Arnhem
Lower R hine Park de Hoge Veluwe and the medieval library
Rotterdam by bicycle. at St Walburgskerk.
Kinderdijk Waal • See the splendid • Wander the streets of
collection of Dutch art Zwolle, one of the
Waal
at the Kröller-Müller country’s most
Dordrecht
Museum near Arnhem. beguiling cities.
010-011_EW_Netherlands.indd 11 16/01/17 11:53 am
12 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
Two Days in
Amsterdam
Known as home to Anne
Frank and Van Gogh,
Amsterdam is brimming
with sights and beautiful
canals to explore.
• Arriving Schiphol Airport
is a 20-minute train journey
from the city centre.
Amsterdam also has good
train connections with the
rest of Europe.
Brightly lit houses overlook the canal in the Jordaan, Amsterdam
Day 1
Morning Begin the tour in Dam features a fabulous collection of Two Days in
Square, a bustling open space Dutch paintings, most notably The Hague
at the heart of the city, and visit the wonderful Rembrandts.
the National Monument (p90), Then, proceed to the superb An important political
an evocative war memorial Van Gogh Museum (pp130–31), centre since the 13th
erected in 1956. Then, pop into devoted to the greatest of all century, The Hague is
the Nieuwe Kerk (p90), one of Dutch painters. After all this a fascinating city with
Amsterdam’s most beautiful art, take a break at a local café aristocratic charm.
Gothic buildings. Stop next at or go for a stroll amid the • Arriving The Hague has
the imposing Koninklijk Paleis greenery of the neighbouring good train connections with
(pp92–3), built in the 17th Vondelpark (p124). the rest of the Netherlands.
century as the Stadhuis (Town The nearest airport is
Hall) when the city was at its Afternoon After lunch, visit the Rotterdam, 21 km (13 miles)
richest. Afterwards, detour south city’s third major museum, the away, while Schiphol airport
to the Begijnhof (p91), a set of Stedelijk Museum (pp132–3), is 48 km (30 miles) away.
pretty medieval almshouses whose excellent collection of
grouped around a small green. contemporary art is housed in
a lavishly refur bished gallery. Or,
Afternoon Take a stroll along if museum fatigue is setting in, Day 1
the Singel, the first of the four venture out of the tourist zone Morning Stroll the streets of
canals that make up the to explore the maze-like streets The Hague (pp222–3), pausing
Grachtengordel (p99), or of the Jordaan (pp110–111), or on Lange Vijverberg for a
“girdle of canals”. With a string rest your legs on a canal boat panoramic view of the
of hump-backed bridges trip (p117). Binnenhof (p224), a long and
spanning olive-green canals, elegant series of high-gabled
this is Amsterdam at its most buildings that now house the
beautiful. Pop into the Dutch parliament. Venture into
Museum van Loon (p119) for the Binnenhof and take a
an insight into the life and guided tour of the Ridderzaal
times of the Dutch merchant (p224), the Hall of the Knights,
elite, and then head for which dates back to the 13th
Westerkerk (p114), with its century. Continue onto the
soaring spire and cavernous Mauritshuis (pp226–7), an out-
interior. From there, slip along standing art gallery with a
the street to the city’s most wonderful collection of Dutch
popular attraction, the Anne paintings, including several
Frank Huis (pp112–13). exquisite paintings by
Johannes Vermeer.
Day 2
Morning Dedicate this day Afternoon Visit the Museum
to explorimg some of the Bredius (p224) to enjoy a
city’s best museums. Expect connoisseur’s collection of
to spend at least a couple of Dutch art. Wander along the
hours at the Rijksmuseum tree-lined Lange Voorhout,
(pp126–9), Amsterdam’s A sculpture in the Begijnhof, a tranquil which is framed by handsome
principal art museum, which space away from the bustle of the city old mansions, one of which,
For practical information on travelling around the Netherlands, see pp432–49
012-017_EW_Netherlands.indd 12 16/01/17 11:53 am
DISC OVERING THE NE THERLANDS 13
the Escher in Het Paleis Two Days in Utrecht
(p225), exhibits the startling
compositions of the graphic
artist Maurits Escher. Then, Home to many superb
head north towards the museums, Utrecht is a lively
unusual Panorama Mesdag city with magnificent
(p228), where a massive canalside houses.
circular canvas depicts the • Arriving Served by Schiphol
beach at Scheveningen as it airport, Utrecht also has good
was in the late 19th century. road and train connections.
Apeldoorn is just 40 minutes
Day 2 by train and there are
Morning Spend the morning departures every 20–30
at the Gementeemuseum Den minutes. There are regular
Haag (p228), whose vast buses from Apeldoorn train
permanent collection includes station to the Paleis Het Loo.
a wonderful display of Delft
pottery and an extravagant
collection of modern Dutch Imposing ceiling of the Gothic Domkerk
artists, with special reference to Day 1 in Utrecht
the austere Piet Mondriaan. Be Morning Begin your tour
sure to pop next door to the of Utrecht (pp204–5) at the bars, cafés and restaurants
Fotomuseum (p228), which Domtoren (p206). At 112 m occupy the old cellars and street
has built up an international (368 ft), this is the highest bell level is one storey up. Follow
reputation for its temporary tower in the country and a the Oude Gracht south to the
exhibitions of photography. symbol of the city. The Museum Catharijneconvent
panoramic view from the tower (p206), which displays an excel
Afternoon If the weather is is worth the climb. Next, drop lent collection of medieval art
good, take the tram or cycle by the Domkerk (p206) with and religious sculpture. Push
through the woods to its fine Gothic stonework. ing on, walk to the Centraal
Scheveningen (p229), a Continue west to the Nationaal Museum (p206), noted for
popular seaside resort where Museum Speelklok (p207) its fine art dating from the
the main attraction is a sandy to explore its fascinating and 16th century onwards.
beach that stretches out as most unusual collection of
far as the eye can see. You can mechanical musical instru Day 2
also take your chances at the ments, from fairground organs Morning Don’t miss the
casino, enjoy high tea at the to musical boxes. remarkable Rietveld
Kurhaus (p229), stroll along Schröderhuis (p208), one of
the pier and, finally, admire Afternoon Continue your tour the most influential pieces of
the outdoor sculptures of by walking along the prettiest modern architecture in Europe,
the Museum Beelden aan stretch of the Oude Gracht designed by Gerrit Rietveld, a
Zee (p229). (p204) near the Stadhuis, where leading member of the De Stijl
movement. Allow at least an
hour to explore the house. In
particular, look out for the
retractable, shapechanging
windows in the dining room.
Afternoon Take the train
from Utrecht to Apeldoorn
(p340), a modest country
town, on the outskirts of
which is the Paleis Het Loo
(pp338–9), a lavish palace
built in the 17th century and
occupied by the Dutch royals
until the 1970s. Admire the
palace’s magnificent dining
hall, gawp at the extravagant
bedroom of William III, enjoy
the paintings in the picture
gallery, and wander through
the lovely formal gardens to
Intricately designed gardens of the Palais Het Loo finish the tour.
012-017_EW_Netherlands.indd 13 16/01/17 11:53 am
14 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
A Week in the South
• Arriving Start in Haarlem,
easily accessed from
Amsterdam’s Schiphol
airport.
• Transport Most of this
itinerary can be completed
using local trains and buses,
but a car will give added
flexibility. The Kinderdijk
windmills are only accessible
by car or bicycle.
Day 1: Haarlem A row of windmills at Kinderdijk in Dordrecht
Explore the centre of Haarlem
(pp186–7), one of the country’s Day 4: Delft with its fancily dressed porters.
prettiest towns, with a cluster Delft (pp230–33) is a charming Be sure to drop by St Janskerk
of old and distinguished little town with an especially (p242), a distinguished Gothic
buildings framing the fine Grote Markt (main square), structure with a breathtakingly
expansive Grote Markt. Be with the Stadhuis at one end beautiful set of stainedglass
sure to visit the Grote Kerk and the splendid Nieuwe Kerk windows dating from the late
(p188), a huge and imposing (p232) at the other. Explore the 16th century.
structure with a magnificent town’s network of narrow lanes
nave. Afterwards, admire the and visit both the Oude Kerk Day 7: Dordrecht
potpourri collections displayed (p232) and the Stedelijk Spend the morning exploring
at the Teylers Museum (p189) Museum Het Prinsenhof (p232), Dordrecht (p244), an ancient
and then head over to the where a hired assassin port that nudges up against
town’s key attraction – the murdered the heroic William of one of the busiest waterways
outstanding Frans Hals Orange – the bullet holes can in the world. Highlights here
Museum (pp190–91), which still be seen in the wall. include the ornate and rather
features the paintings of fanciful Grote Kerk (p244)
Golden Age artist Frans Hals. Day 5: Rotterdam and the Huis Simon van Gijn
Enjoy the big city feel of (p244), with its period rooms
Day 2: Leiden and Keukenhof Rotterdam (pp234–41), a and magnificent Brussels
Start the day by strolling pulsating metropolis of lively tapestries. Venturing out of
through the lovely old streets bars, great restaurants and a Dordecht, cycle or drive over to
of Leiden (pp218–19), where a bustling street life. Take a detour the Kinderdijk (p245), where no
maze of cobbled lanes to see the modernist archi fewer than 19 vintage windmills
conceals a string of excellent tecture of the famous cube line up along a canal, looking
attractions. These include houses or Kubus-Paalwoningen proudly out over the
the Rijksmuseum van (p235), stroll along the old city surrounding polders.
Oudheden (p221), which harbour of Delfshaven (p236)
houses an outstanding and take a trip up the Euromast
ancient Egyptian collection, (p236) for the panoramic view.
ranging from mummies to Finish the day at the outstand
temples. Look out also for the ing Museum Boijmans Van
sterling Gothic architecture of Beuningen (pp238–9), which
St Pieterskerk (p221), the houses an internationally
handsome Korenbeursgrug famous collection of Dutch art.
(p219) and Leiden’s much
praised botanical gardens, the Day 6: Gouda
Hortus Botanicus (p220). In Enjoy the small town
the afternoon, catch the bus atmosphere of Gouda (pp242–3)
or drive out of Leiden to the with its cobbled streets, slender
nearby Keukenhof (p217), the canals and handsome main
largest flower garden in the square, the Grote Markt, where
world, famed for its tulips. you can admire the magnificent
Stadhuis (p243). Try to visit
Day 3: The Hague on a Thursday morning in
Pick a day from the city itinerary the summertime to enjoy the Colourful buildings in the pretty town
on p12. town’s famous cheese market of Haarlem
For practical information on travelling around the Netherlands, see pp432–49
012-017_EW_Netherlands.indd 14 16/01/17 11:53 am
DISC OVERING THE NE THERLANDS 15
A Week in the North (p277), the smallest of the
and the Islands Waddenzee islands, whose sand
dunes stretch out along its
• Arriving Head from northern shore. Take a hike or a
Amsterdam to Alkmaar. bike ride along one of the many
• Transport Hoorn, Enkhuizen, trails, or hunker down in the
Leeuwarden, Harlingen and island‘s one and only village,
Groningen are easy to reach Oost-Vlieland (p277), where
by train, and there are there is an interesting museum,
regular daily ferries from the Tromp’s Huys (p277).
Harlingen to Vlieland,
Holwerd to Ameland, and Day 4: Terschelling
from Harlingen and Vlieland Take the ferry from Harlingen or
to Terschelling. However, to Vlieland to Terschelling (p278).
complete this itinerary, hiring The first port of call will be West-
a car is essential. Terschelling (p278), a lovely little
village that houses the Museum
’t Behouden Huys (p278). Transporting cheeses at Alkmaar cheese
Day 1: Alkmaar Wander through the village, a market, North Holland
Heading north out of popular summer resort, and then
Amsterdam, stop at Alkmaar cycle out across the island, either old houses, and then push on to
(p185), whose charming old to the dunes and beaches of the Lauwersoog (p290), a tiny village
centre is encircled by olive-green north coast or to the woods and deep in the countryside, and
canals. On Friday mornings, the mud flats of the south. Uithuizen (p291), where you can
main square comes alive with the sign up for a guided walk across
town’s famous cheese market. Day 5: Ameland the mud flats (an activity known
Afterwards, be sure to visit Hoorn Catch the ferry from Holwerd to as wadlopen in Dutch). Also visit
(p182), an old Zuiderzee seaport Ameland (p278) and arrive in Pieterburen for its Seal Sanctuary,
with a fine ensemble of old the village of Nes (p278). Here, the Zeehondencrèche (p291).
buildings, as well as the Westfries choose between the mud flats,
Museum (p182). Moving along marshland and bird reserves of Day 7: Groningen
the coast, you soon reach the south coast and the sand Don’t miss out on Groningen
Enkhuizen (p182), another dunes of the north, but be sure (pp284–9), a bustling city flush
handsome former seaport and to visit tiny Hollum (p279), a with excellent restaurants and a
the home of the outstanding picturesque hamlet of old busy nightlife. Spend the morn-
Zuiderzeemuseum (pp180–81). seafarers’ cottages and thatched ing exploring the city centre;
farmhouses fanning out from a highlights include the imposing
Day 2: Friesland delightful country church. Martinikerk (p286) and the
Drive north from Enkhuizen to delightful Prinsenhof Gardens
cross the Waddenzee via the Day 6: Dokkum to (p287). The big attraction,
Afsluitdijk (p168), thus reaching Pieterburen however, is the Groninger
the province of Friesland Head to Dokkum (p300), an Museum (pp288–9), where a
(pp295–305) at a point near the ancient town where the Christian wide-ranging art collection is
exquisitely pretty waterside missionary St Boniface met a housed in a splendid modern
hamlet of Hindeloopen (p302). grisly end. Explore the town building designed by Alessandro
Proceed northeast from here to centre with its pretty canals and Mendini and opened in 1994.
reach Sneek (p303), a relaxing
little village famous for its sailing
clubs, and Leeuwarden (p300), a
good-looking town well worth
an afternoon’s wanderings.
Admire the wonderful ceramic
collection at Het Princessehof
(p300), and allow some time for
the Fries Museum (p300) with
its displays on all things Frisian.
Day 3: Harlingen to Vlieland
Begin the day amid the
maritime atmosphere of
Harlingen (p301), an ancient
seaport where vintage sailing
boats crowd the harbour. Then,
catch the ferry over to Vlieland Spritsail barges in Sneek, Friesland
012-017_EW_Netherlands.indd 15 16/01/17 11:53 am
16 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
A Circular Tour Day 4: Vollenhove and
from Amsterdam Giethoorn
Traversing the polder landscape,
• Duration Seven days – if visitors soon reach minuscule
travelling by bike, consider Vollenhove (p321), once an
building in extra rest stops important seaport. Allow an hour
and extending to 10 days. to explore the village, and then
• Arriving This tour starts and push on east to Giethoorn
ends in Amsterdam. (p322), one of the country’s most
unusual villages, with a string of
• Transport The towns in
this itinerary are readily old thatched farmhouses dotting
accessible by train, but local a network of peaty canals. Take a
buses do not run regularly, boat ride here; spare some time
so visitors will need a car to to explore the unspoiled
travel to the villages. For the wetlands of De Weerribben
energetic visitor, this tour (p321) conservation area. Boat travelling along the waterways of
can be done by bike. Giethoorn, Overijssel
Day 5: Staphorst to Zwolle
Take a detour south from Veluwemeer, the narrow
Giethoorn to Staphorst (p324), waterway separating the
Day 1: Marken to Volendam an old-fashioned village whose mainland from reclaimed polder
See the famous stilt houses of elongated main street is flanked lands. See the medieval town
Marken (p178), a tiny village by thatched farmhouses. Visit on gates, pop into the St
perched on an island in the Sunday morning when the locals Nicolaaskerk and drop by the
Markermeer. Learn more of the head off to church in traditional Gementeemuseum Elburg
island’s heritage at the Marker costume (note: taking photos is (p340), where pride of place goes
Museum (p178), which occupies considered impolite). Continue to a fine collection of silverware,
six old island houses. Continue to Zwolle (p320), a distinguished once the property of the local
up the coast to Volendam city whose star-shaped fort- guild of sailors.
(p178), where a dyke still ifications encase a centre of
protects the village. narrow lanes, elegant squares Day 7: Amersfoort
and attractive old buildings. Visit Head southwest along the
Day 2: Edam and Enkhuizen the Grote Kerk (p320) for its Veluwemeer waterway towards
Edam (p178) is extremely pretty, splendid interior, the Stedelijk Amersfoort (p210), a medium-
its cluster of ancient houses Museum (p320) for its Golden sized town whose ancient centre
huddled around a network of Age period rooms, and the Paleis is still encircled by canals. Visit
narrow canals and swing bridges. aan de Blijmarkt (p320) for its the key attractions: the splendid
Allow an hour to explore Edam exhibitions of contemporary art. Koppelpoort, one of three
and then move on to Enkhuizen Last but not least, stroll along the surviving medieval gates; the
(p182), a handsome old seaport harbour, where vintage canal soaring Onze Lieve Vrouwetoren
with a splendid harbour in the boats are polished and scrubbed (the Tower of the Church of Our
lee of a mighty, defensive tower, to delightful effect. Lady); and the Mondriaanhuis
the Drommedaris (p182). Finish (p210), a museum in the former
the day at Enkhuizen’s excellent Day 6: Elburg home of artist Pier Mondriaan.
Zuiderzeemuseum (p180). Discover the gentle charms of Allow an hour or so to cover the
Elburg (p340), a former Zuiderzee 50 km (31 miles) back from
Day 3: Urk seaport that now sits beside the Amersfoort to Amsterdam.
Cross the Markerwaarddijk from
Enkhuizen to reach the outskirts
of Lelystad (p331), a modern
town whose main pull is the
replica 17th-century sailing ship
on the Bataviawerf (p331).
Pushing on, it’s a short haul to
Urk (p330), an intriguing little
place and one-time island fishing
village now attached to the
mainland. Grab a plate of seafood
before continuing on to the
delightful Schokland Museum
(p330). Just like Urk, Schokland
was once an island and the
remains of the old fishing village
are fascinating. The medieval gate of Koppelpoort in Amersfoort
For practical information on travelling around the Netherlands, see pp432–49
012-017_EW_Netherlands.indd 16 16/01/17 11:53 am
DISC OVERING THE NE THERLANDS 17
A Cycling Tour of the
River IJssel
• Duration Seven days.
• Arriving Arnhem, at the
start of this itinerary, is easy
to reach by train, bus and
car, as is Kampen at the end
of the itinerary.
• Transport To complete this
itinerary, hire a bike in
Arnhem or take one with
you on the train or by car.
Day 1: Arnhem Cycling trail in the National Park de Hoge Veluwe, Gelderland
Begin the tour with a stroll
through the centre of Arnhem a cluster of immaculate cottages. and very ornate weigh house,
(p344), a lively city that suffered Then, continue to Zutphen the Waag. Don’t leave town
terribly during the Battle of (p345), a beguiling country without trying the local
Arnhem in 1944. It now hosts a town with a huddle of ancient speciality, Kruidkoek, a tangy
vibrant restaurant and nightclub buildings and the remnants of spice cake.
scene. Pause to admire the medieval walls. Look out for
imposing edifice of the the Drogenapstoren (p345), a Day 5: Sallandse Heuvelrug
Eusebiuskerk (p344), restored fortified tower dating from From Deventer, travel northeast
after wartime damage – as the 15th century, and drop by to the partly wooded, sandy
were the neighbouring Stadhuis St Walburgskerk (p345), a heathlands of the Sallandse
and Duivelshuis (p344), both splendid Gothic church with a Heuvelrug (p324), now
of which are fine examples of medieval library, where the books protected as a national park.
Dutch Renaissance architec ture. are still chained to the desks. At the Bezoekscentrum (Visitor
Then, go down to the Rijnkade, Centre), visitors can get their
where there is a walking and Day 4: Deventer bearings and pick up maps of
cycling path along the bank Cycle onwards and relax in the park and its myriad cycling
of the River Rhine. Deventer (p324), a small and routes. While wandering
historic town that nudges up through the park, look out for
Day 2: National Park de against the River IJssel. Watch the black grouse – this is its last
Hoge Veluwe the heavily laden barges remaining breeding ground in
Pedal out to the National Park ploughing up and down the the whole of the Netherlands.
de Hoge Veluwe (p343), a chunk river, and then wander along
of mixed woodland, heath, the main square, the Brink, Day 6: Zwolle
marshland and sand dunes that as it curves past the town’s Cycle to Zwolle (see p16 for
stretches north of Arnhem. intriguing Historisch Museum details on Zwolle).
Explore the park’s maze of (p324), which occupies the old
cycling trails, and be sure to visit Day 7: Kampen
the Museonder (p343), a Approach Kampen (p320) from
subterranean museum that the east across the River IJssel
offers a picture of what the to appreciate the town’s fine
natural world looks like below riverside setting and soaring
ground level – from how roots spires. Once in town, make a
grow to the animals that burrow beeline for the unusual
there. Afterwards, head for the Ikonenmuseum (p321), with its
park’s crowning highlight – the substantial collection of Russian
Kröller-Müller Museum (p342), and Greek icons, and get the
with its world-famous art low-down on the town’s long
collection and open-air history at the intriguing
sculpture garden, Beeldentuin. Stedelijk Museum (p321). Finish
Return to Arnhem for the night. the day by wandering through
the town centre, admiring its
Day 3: Bronkhorst to handsome old buildings, most
Zutphen memorably the Oude Raadhuis
Head out of Arnhem to and the three remaining town
Bronkhorst (p345), a tiny but The Deventer skyline across the gates, which date back to the
immensely pretty little place with River IJssel 14th century.
012-017_EW_Netherlands.indd 17 16/01/17 11:53 am
18 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
Putting the Netherlands on the Map
The Netherlands is situated in Western Europe, bordering Belgium to Norden Bremerhaven
the south and Germany to the east. To its north and west is the North Wilhelmshaven
Sea. The country is popularly known as Holland, although the provinces
of North and South Holland form only part of the Netherlands in reality. EMS Jude Kanal
Since the completion of the Deltawerken (Delta Works), the coastline
now reaches some 800 km (500 miles) in length. The country’s major Emden
waterways and excellent road and rail systems make it an important e G RONINGEN
gateway to the rest of Europe, and to Germany in particular. e Leer
Approximately one-sixth of its total area is covered with water. n z Groningen Oldenburg
The Netherlands has a population of just over 17 million. e Leeuwarden Hunte
d
d Groningen
a FRIESLAND Friesoythe
W Assen
Western Europe NORWAY
Den Helder Heerenveen DRENTHE Cloppenburg
SWEDEN
Vechta
Nor th NOORD Emmen
DENMARK
Sea HOLLAND
IJsselmeer
REP. OF Enkhuizen Meppel Hoogeveen Meppen
IRELAND UNITED Amsterdam
KINGDOM NETHERLANDS
GERMANY Hoorn Vecht GERMANY
BELGIUM Alkmaar Lingen
CZECH Newcastle
REPUBLIC Markermeer
See inset map below Zwolle OVER-
FLEVO- Nordhorn
FRANCE AUSTRIA Leylstad LAND IJSSEL Mittelland Kanal
Atlantic SWITZ. Almelo
Ocean ITALY NETHERLANDS Osnabrück
Haarlem AMSTERDAM Almere Rheine
Deventer Hengelo Ems
SP AIN
Schiphol
Apeldoorn Enschede
Münster
Berkel
Amersfoort
Leiden
Key ZUID Utrecht
Den Haag HOLLAND IJssel GELDERLAND
Greater Amsterdam UTRECHT Arnhem
Delft Gouda
Land below sea level Rotterdam Lek L ek Coesfeld
Motorway Hoek van
Holland Rotterdam
Major road aal Nijmegen
Railway Barendrecht W
Hull, Dordrecht Rhein
Harwich National border
's Hertogenbosch Wesel
Zierikzee NOORD BRABANT
Breda
Hull ZEELAND Tilburg Maas
Bergen Helmond
Middelburg op Zoom Eindhoven Eindhoven
Blerick Krefeld
Zeebrugge Turnhout
Ramsgate LIMB URG
Antwerpen Mönchengladbach
Oostende Albert Kanaal
Brugge Antwerpen Zuid Willemsvaart Rur
Kanaal
Nieuwpoort Mechelen
Gent Demer
BELGIUM Maastricht
Kortrijk Brussels Leuven Sint- Hasselt Maastricht
Ieper Bruxelles Truiden Aachen
Oudenaarde
For map symbols see back flap
018-019_EW_Netherlands.indd 18 16/01/17 12:02 pm
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PUT TING THE NE THERLANDS ON THE M AP 19
Norden Wilhelmshaven Bremerhaven
EMS Jude Kanal
Emden
e G RONINGEN
e
z Groningen Leer Oldenburg
n
e Leeuwarden Hunte
d
d Groningen
a FRIESLAND Friesoythe
W Assen
Den Helder Heerenveen DRENTHE Cloppenburg
Vechta
NOORD Emmen
HOLLAND
IJsselmeer
Enkhuizen Meppel Hoogeveen Meppen
Hoorn
Alkmaar Vecht Lingen GERMANY
Newcastle Markermeer
See inset map below Zwolle OVER-
FLEVO- Nordhorn
Leylstad LAND IJSSEL Mittelland Kanal
Almelo Osnabrück
Haarlem AMSTERDAM Almere NETHERLANDS Rheine
Deventer Hengelo Ems
Schiphol
Apeldoorn Enschede
Münster
Berkel
Amersfoort
Leiden
ZUID
Den Haag HOLLAND Utrecht IJssel GELDERLAND 0 kilometres 20
Gouda UTRECHT Arnhem
Delft Coesfeld 0 miles 20
Rotterdam Lek L ek
Hoek van
Holland Rotterdam aal
W Nijmegen
Barendrecht
Hull, Dordrecht Rhein
Harwich
's Hertogenbosch Wesel
Zierikzee NOORD BRABANT Amsterdam and Environs
Breda
Hull ZEELAND Tilburg Maas Markermeer
Bergen Helmond Heemskerk Purmerend
Middelburg op Zoom Eindhoven Eindhoven Volendam
Beverwijk
Zaanstad
Blerick Krefeld
Zeebrugge Turnhout IJmuiden Zaandam Monnickendam
Ramsgate LIMB URG
Antwerpen Mönchengladbach Haarlem Almere
Oostende Albert Kanaal Zandvoort AMSTERDAM IJmeer
Brugge Antwerpen Kanaal Almere
Haven
Rur
Hoofdoorp Schiphol
Nieuwpoort Mechelen Hillegom Weesp
Gent Demer Amstelveen Bussum
Zuid Willemsvaart
BELGIUM Maastricht Uithoorn Hilversum
Kortrijk Brussels Leuven Sint- Hasselt Maastricht Sassenheim Mijdrecht
Ieper Bruxelles Truiden Aachen
Oudenaarde
018-019_EW_Netherlands.indd 19 16/01/17 3:02 pm
020-025_EW_Netherlands.indd 20 16/01/17 12:02 pm
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INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS 21
A PORTRAIT OF
THE NETHERLANDS
From the Frisian Islands in the north to Zeeland in the south, the Netherlands is
a place of contrasts, with fine sandy beaches, picturesque villages and vibrant
towns with multilingual and outward-looking people. The mighty River Rhine
bisects the country, bringing trade and prosperity from far and wide.
The landscape of what is now the The Netherlands covers an area of
Netherlands has changed considerably 41,547 sq km (16,040 sq miles), about
over the past 2,000 years. Since Roman one-tenth the size of California. With
times, large tracts of land have been just over 17 million inhabitants, this means
swallowed up by the sea in areas such as a population density of around 380 per
Zeeland and the former Zuiderzee. Old sq km (1,000 per sq mile), making it the
maps show that during the Middle Ages third-most densely popu lated country
almost half of today’s pro vinces of North in Europe after Monaco and Malta.
Holland and South Holland were under However, this is not something that is
water. Since then, large parts of this land readily noticeable to visitors outside the
have been reclaimed. The constant battle main cities, as the flat landscape seems
with the sea reached its height with anything but crowded.
the Delta Works. This massive hydraulic Dutch people are friendly, outgoing and
engineering achievement (see pp250–51) direct. They care about social issues and
was designed to protect the southwestern the environment and almost everyone
part of the country against flooding. The speaks English, many fluently. They live
project was started after the disastrous in a country that is neat and tidy, where
floods of 1953, in which more than 1,800 there is excellent public transport and
people died. where visitors find it easy to get around.
The pier, the focus of social life on the beach at Scheveningen
Flowers in the Keukenhof garden near Lisse, the largest flower garden in the world
020-025_EW_Netherlands.indd 21 16/01/17 12:02 pm
22 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
Holland’s dunes, a natural barrier against the sea and an important water catchment area
Introducing the Netherlands tend to reply: “Our capital is Amsterdam,
Although the Netherlands is the country’s and the government sits in The Hague.”
official name, most of the rest of the Amsterdam is the most cosmopolitan of
world calls it Holland. This book uses these three cities, as well as the country’s
both names. However, Holland actually centre for cultural life. Rotterdam, home to
comprises only two of the 13 Dutch the Europoort, one of the world’s largest
provinces. North and South Holland ports, is the Netherlands’ industrial centre.
contain the country’s three main cities The Hague is the seat of government and
of Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Den Haag quarters many prestigious institutions,
(The Hague), which together with the including the International Court of
cities of Dordrecht, Utrecht, Leiden and Justice. With its neighbouring seaside
Haarlem form a horseshoe-shaped resort of Scheveningen, The Hague is
conurbation known as the Randstad, where most of the foreign embassies
literally, “rim city” (see pp170–71). and consulates are situated.
When people ask, “What is the cap ital Holland can be roughly divided into
of the Netherlands?”, the smiling Dutch the Protestant north and Catholic south,
separated by the great rivers
flowing into the North Sea: the
Rhine, the Waal and the Maas
(Meuse). The people in the north
of the country tend to be more
sober and matter-of-fact, whereas
those of the south tend to be much
more flamboyant in their lifestyles.
Society and Politics
Social life in the Netherlands was
for many years based on the idea
of verzuiling, wherein different
sections of society rested their
beliefs on four pillars (zuilen):
Protestantism, Catholicism,
Shoppers at the Albert Cuypmarkt in Amsterdam liberalism and socialism. At one
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A POR TR AIT OF THE NE THERLANDS 23
time, these groups had almost
no contact with one another.
Catholics would always vote for
the Katholieke Volkspartij, join
Catholic trade unions, base their
social lives on Catholic societies
and send their children to Catholic
schools. The Protestant “pillar”, on
the other hand, was formed of two
main factions: the Dutch Reformed
Church and the Calvinist Church.
Both had their own political The picturesque Dordrecht marina
parties, their own trade unions and
their own schools and societies. (PvdA) and the small D66 formed a
As for socialism and liberalism, the coalition with the conservative Liberal
division was less explicit, though Party (VVD). This resulted in a tripartite
the gap between the world of “purple” cabinet, which appeared so
the “workers” and that of the successful that the coalition was
“entrepreneurs” was huge. continued in 1998.
A major step towards The Dutch elections of May
unity came in 1980, when 2002 surprised everybody as
the three largest religion- the country moved to the right
based political parties A hollow post mill in the of the political spectrum. The
united in the CDA, a polder landscape assassination, nine days before,
Christian Demo cratic of the popular, flamboyant
alliance that went on to dominate and openly gay Pim Fortuyn had shocked
government coalitions for the next 20 the entire country. With his unyielding
years. The gap between the other parties views on Muslims and immigration, and
closed in 1994, when the Labour Party his criticism of the establishment, Fortuyn
The de Geul river at Epen in Zuid Limburg
020-025_EW_Netherlands.indd 23 16/01/17 12:02 pm
24 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
Language and Culture
Dutch, a Germanic language, is used by
more than 20 million people in Holland,
Flanders and parts of the for mer Dutch
colonies. Afrikaans, a language of South
Africa closely related to Dutch, is a separate
language, as is Frisian, which is spoken by
more than 400,000 people in the province
of Friesland. Dutch has many dialects,
each of which has numerous regional
differences. However, these differ ences are
gradually disappearing because of the far-
Football fans sporting orange costumes reaching influences of radio and television.
Culturally, Holland has plenty to offer. The
was the antithesis of the Dutch tradition country’s colourful history is reflected in its
of consensual politics. Despite the loss many old buildings and large number of
of their charismatic leader, LPF became valuable museum collections. Exhibits
the second-largest party in the Lower range from those with local themes to
House; only the Christian Democrats world-famous art such as the collections
(CDA) did better. The coalition parties in Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum (see pp126–7)
of the former government lost 43 and the Mauritshuis in The Hague
seats between them, making this the (see pp226–7). In addition to the
biggest shake-up in Dutch politics major museums of the cities,
since World War II. contemporary art can be seen in
Since 2010, the Dutch political galleries all over the country, and
climate has changed completely. in the profusion of works displayed
Dissatisfied with the coalition in the streets and at numerous
be tween PvdA, CDA and conservative local markets. As for the performing
Christen Unie, the Dutch voted en Dutch beer, fresh arts, more variety is available
masse for VVD and Geert Wilder’s from the tap today than ever before. Holland
Party for Freedom (PVV). However, in boasts a number of renowned
2012, the VVD, CDA and PVV govern- orchestras and is an established name
ment resigned when the PVV refused to in ballet. Stage and theatre have recently
sanction the austerity measures. New marked a shift from experimental to
elections were held, resulting in a more con ventional performances.
VVD-PvdA government.
The Dutch Way of Life
The German poet Heinrich Heine (1797–
1856) described Holland as a place where
“everything happens 50 years later than
anywhere else”. But today, anyone who
reflects on the tolerant Dutch attitude
towards drugs, the country’s relaxed laws
regarding euthanasia and the popular
opposition to the deployment of nuclear
weapons will come away with a different
picture. In fact, the Netherlands was the first
country to legalize gay marriages, reg ulate
prostitution, officially sanction euthanasia
A herring stall in Amsterdam and tolerate the over-the-counter sale of
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A POR TR AIT OF THE NE THERLANDS 25
marijuana. Even the attitude
of the Dut ch towards their
monarchy is modern – they are
regard ed with an affection more
co mmonly extended to family
members than to rulers.
Since the depredations of
World War II, much has changed
in the way the Dutch live their
lives. Thrift and moderation, the
two traditional virtues of
Calvinism, are no longer writ
large in society. A measure of
flamboyance is slowly but surely
making its way into the Dutch
lifestyle. Today the Dutch eat out
enthusiastically and often. A Dutch production of The Three Musketeers
Restaurant and cooking columns
are now featured in newspapers and there are concerns about youngsters
magazines, and there are also many and binge-drinking.
cookery programmes aired on television. In their spare time, Dutch people head
Dutch drinking habits have also outdoors, often on bicycles, which are
changed. On fine-weather days, people enormously popular. Love of the
throng the pavement cafés to end the environment is a strong Dutch charac-
working day with a beer or a glass of wine. teristic. There are hundreds of organized
They also drink a great deal more wine rambling and cycling tours, fun fairs and
with meals than once was the case. The theme parks, as well as a wide assortment
renowned Dutch gin, jenever (see p420), of festivals and other events held
is still popular, though younger people throughout the year (see pp36–9). And
prefer cocktails. As in a lot of countries, wherever you are, you will always find a
flea market – with items
ranging from flowers to
antiques for sale – not
far away.
The new-found joie de
vivre of the Dutch reflects
the general trend evident
in Western European coun-
tries. This is the result of a
new leisure culture, one
which is more “sensory”.
Less time is devoted to
reading and contempla-
tion, while food, drink,
sport and the arts all take
on increasingly prominent
roles. Politically, socially
and culturally, the Dutch
are embracing the 21st
De Waalkade, the promenade in Nijmegen century with confidence.
020-025_EW_Netherlands.indd 25 16/01/17 12:02 pm
26 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
Holding Back the Water
Recent floods in the Netherlands’ river valleys,
particularly the one which occurred in
1995, when 200,000 people needed to be
evacuated from the area, have shown what
a threat water continues to pose to the
Netherlands. The only way the sea can be held
back is by dams, but in order to contain rivers
at high tide, the country is adopting a new
approach, that of “controlled flooding”. Flooded farm in Gelderland (1995)
Since the 11th century
more and more land has
been reclaimed from the
sea. Countless dykes were
built over the centuries
using elementary tools,
such as spades and
“burries”, a kind of stretcher.
The illustration shows a
breached dyke being filled.
At the Hook of Holland the The lowest point At Krimpen the IJssel The Krimpenerwaard
sea is not held back by dunes, in Holland is the discharges into the between the IJssel and the
as it is along the entire coast Zuidplaspolder at Nieuwe Maas. Lek, consists of high-quality
of North Holland and South Gouda, 6.74 m (22 hayfields and pasture.
Holland, but by a dyke. ft) below sea level.
The River
Lek
A large part of Cross-section of the Netherlands
the Netherlands This cross-section of the Netherlands follows
(blue on the map) a straight line from the Hook of Holland to
is below sea level. Achterhoek (see Locator Map) and shows clearly
These areas have how low much of the land is. Only some 65 km
been called “laag- (40 miles) inland, at Neder-Betuwe, does the
Nederland”, or the ground rise above sea level. The lowest point
“low Netherlands”,
and have only in the Netherlands is the Zuidplaspolder, which
come into being is more than 6.74 m (22 ft) below sea level.
over the past Comparatively elevated areas like the Betuwe
10,000 years. have nothing to fear from the sea, but this does
not mean that they are not at risk of flooding:
Key the Waal River, which runs more or less parallel
to this cross-section, may flood at unusually
Above sea level
high tides or after a heavy rainfall.
Below sea level
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A POR TR AIT OF THE NE THERLANDS 27
The Story of Hans Brinker
The tale of the little boy who held his
finger in a leak in a dyke to hold back
the sea is not a figure from Dutch
folklore but probably originated in the
book Hans Brinker, or, The Silver Skates,
by American writer Mary Mapes
Dodge (1831–1905). It tells the story
of a poverty-stricken boy who helps
his ailing father. Hans and the doctor
in the book (Boerhaave) are historical
figures. The story was published in
over 100 editions in Dodge’s lifetime.
Floods in the river valleys in 1993 and 1995
led to the implementation of large-scale dyke
reinforcement projects, known as the “delta plan
for the large rivers”. Old flood channels were
also repaired as a matter of priority to allow
more water to drain off.
Over-Betuwe is an area of Statue of Hans Brinker in Spaarndam
Neder-Betuwe is probably fruit orchards, horticulture
Holland’s most important and cattle farming. Montferland is an important
fruit-growing region. The Pannerdens region of lateral moraines.
Canal currently
connects the Upper These moraines were
and Lower Rhineland. formed by
67.1 m (220 ft) the actions
of glaciers.
above sea level
Merwede
Canal
AMSTERDAM
Sea level
ROTTERDAM
6.74 m (22 ft) below sea level
MAASTRICHT
Locator Map
Cross-section of a Modern River Dyke
Blocks of boulder clay protect the dyke from the wash of the river. The water seeps through the
water-resistant clay layer slowly, draining off quickly only once it reaches the sand layer. This way the
body of the dyke stays dry and hard.
Water table Winter dyke Concrete blocks Water meadows Summer dyke
026-027_EW_Netherlands.indd 27 16/01/17 12:02 pm
28 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
Farmhouses and Windmills
In the mainly flat landscape of the Netherlands,
farmhouses always stand in the shelter of trees.
Windmills, on the other hand, needing as much wind
as they can get, usually stand in very exposed areas.
Both are highly valued because they are so picturesque,
and it is easy to forget that they actually belong in the
category of functional architecture. How a windmill In the farmhouses of North Holland,
works is explained on page 183. the barn, threshing-floor and house
are all under one pyramidal roof.
This Drenthe
farmhouse is a
modern version of The inner yard of the
what has been known Zuid Limburg farmhouse
since the Middle once teemed with
Ages as a los hoes animal life.
(detached house).
Main house Cattle shed
The Zuid Limburg
Farmhouses
The traditional
farmhouses of Zuid
Limburg have a
distinctive inner yard,
enclosed by the house
and farm buildings.
In the inner yard,
ducks, chickens
and pigs once The gateway The walls are
roamed, rummaging is large enough made of marl
in the dunghill. The to let in a horse and covered
picture may have been and wagon. in plaster.
lively but was not
particularly hygienic.
The krukhuis is a hall-type
house, distinguished
by the main house
being at right angles
to the barn.
The hallenhuis
has a low-hanging
roof held up by uprights
kept in position by cross-beams.
The side walls are half-timbered.
The kop-hals-
romp
farmhouse Langgevel (long-gable)
is found farmhouses are common on
mainly in the sandy ground of Peel
Friesland. and Kempen. In this
In this type type of farmhouse,
of farmhouse, the living
the long, oblong accommodation
barn is separated from and farm
the mainhouse by a small, buildings are
intermediate building. arranged in a row.
028-029_EW_Netherlands.indd 28 16/01/17 12:02 pm
A POR TR AIT OF THE NE THERLANDS 29
Paltrok Mills
Sail
Paltrok, or smock, mills were developed for
use as sawmills around 1600. They were so
called because of their resemblance to the
paltrok, a smock that was commonly worn
at the time. These windmills were mounted
on a circular track, allowing them to rotate Wheels allow the
in their entirety. Generally, smock mills were windmill to rotate
used to saw wagenschot – entire oak on its axis.
trunks that had been split in two.
Ridge post
Underneath the
porch is a crane
for lifting the
tree trunks from The mill house
the water. is divided into
two wings.
Cattle shed
Saw floor
Under the cap
the wind
shaft propels
the heavy
Belt or berg mills brake wheel.
have an extra-high body
because of surrounding
buildings or trees. A
mound (berg) made at
the base of the mill
provides access to
the sails.
Stander (post) mills
are the oldest type of
mill in Holland. The Wipmolen are a
entire wooden body later version of the Stellingmolen, like
rotates on a central stander mills and the belt mill, have an
wooden post. Most were designed to extra-tall body. This type
post mills were used pump water. The was used to produce
to grind corn. smaller body dye, oil or paper. An
rotates on a fixed, encircling platform
Langgevel (long-gable) pyramidal base. halfway up the body
farmhouses are common on enables the mill to be
the sandy ground of Peel Toren mills (tower mills) rotated and the sails to
and Kempen. In this have a brick cylindrical be reefed on the wings.
type of farmhouse, body and a cap that can be
the living rotated from inside. Only
accommodation four survive in Holland The tjasker was used to drain small
and farm today. The oldest one can areas of water. It consisted of a sloping
buildings are be seen at Achterhoek axle with sails at one end and an
arranged in a row. near Zeddam. Archimedes’ screw at the other.
028-029_EW_Netherlands.indd 29 16/01/17 12:02 pm
30 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
The Dutch Masters
The proliferation of painting in the Netherlands
during the 17th century – the country’s Golden Age –
corresponded with the great demand for paintings
among newly rich townspeople. The lack of major royal
and ecclesiastic patrons meant that there was no official
school of painting, which left artists free to specialize in Willem Heda (1594–1680) was one
of the masters of still life. The painter’s
particular fields, such as historical subjects, portraits, simple compositions reflect his
landscapes and still life, as well as genre painting. signature use of sober colours.
Frans Hals (c.1580–1666) left an oeuvre of
some 200 portraits and more than 50 genre
paintings. He painted not only regents and
wealthy townsmen but also peasants, soldiers,
fishermen, publicans and drunkards. No sketches
for his paintings are known, and it is assumed
that he painted alla prima, that is, straight onto
the canvas without sketches. The Fool, shown
above, dates from around 1623.
Rembrandt van Rijn
Rembrandt van Rijn is regarded
by many as the greatest Dutch
painter of all time. He was born
in Leiden in 1606, but lived in
Amsterdam from 1632 until his
death in 1669. Rembrandt was
a master in the use of light
and shadow. The Jewish Bride
(painted around 1665)
is regarded as one of the best
portraits of his later period.
Jacob van Ruisdael (1628–82)
was an unrivalled landscape
painter. In his View of Haarlem
depicted here, the low horizon
is dwarfed by an imposing
sky with clouds.
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A POR TR AIT OF THE NE THERLANDS 31
The silversmith Adam van Vianen
(1569–1627) was famous for his
ornamental style, which was
known as kwabstijl, or “flabby
style”, and distinguished by
flowing ornamentation and the
use of various fantasy elements.
This gilded silver jug is an example
of his style. Much of the silver work
from this time has been lost because
pieces have been melted down in
order to trade in the metal for cash.
Jan Steen (1625–79) was a prolific painter with a
variety of works, 800 of which survive today. They
include everything from altar pieces through
landscape paintings to works with mythological
themes. However, Steen is known primarily for his
genre painting, which gives a detailed, humorous
picture of 17th-century society. The Family Scene,
shown above, is a typical “Jan Steen household” –
one in disarray. Tavern scenes were another of the
artist’s favourite subjects.
Gerard van Honthorst (1590–1656) was
greatly influenced by the works of Caravaggio.
As well as historical scenes and portraits, he
painted genre pieces such as The Merry Fiddler
(above). His famous nocturnal scenes lit by
candle-light led to his being nicknamed
“Gherardo delle Notte” in Italy.
Johannes Vermeer (1632–75) spent his entire life in
Delft. Only 40 of his works are known today, but even
this modest oeuvre plays a prominent role in the
history of painting. His balanced compositions appear
very modern. Long before the Impressionists, Vermeer
succeeded in conveying light through colour. The
street depicted in View of Houses in Delft (c.1658), left,
has become known as “Vermeer’s street”.
030-031_EW_Netherlands.indd 31 16/01/17 12:02 pm
32 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
Pottery and Tiles
When in 1620 exports of porcelain from China to Europe fell
because of the troubles in China, Dutch potters seized the
opportunity and started to produce their own wares, imitating
the Chinese style on a large scale. The quality of the Dutch blue-
white pottery was excellent. The city of Delft became one of the
prime centres for the production of this china, which reached its
height between 1660 and 1725. During the Art Nouveau and
Art Deco periods, Dutch potters regained their international
renown. The best known of them was TAC Colenbrander. Tulip vase
Stylized flowers reflect the
Italian majolica tradition.
De Porceleyne Fles is
the only Delftware
shop which has
managed to survive
throughout the
centuries. The business
was bought in 1876 and
revived by Joost Thooft,
whose initials can still
be seen on the
workshop’s mark. The
exquisite painting on
the porcelain continues
to be done by hand,
although the rest of
the manufacturing
process no longer
involves the craft’s
traditional methods.
Delftware
Although tin-glazed earthenware was also made in other
parts of the Netherlands, “Delft” came to describe almost all
earthenware made in the Netherlands during this period.
Any piece made after 1650 will always have a workshop
mark. Later, the glazer’s initials, as well as a code denoting
the year and a serial number, were added.
Artist’s Year code – DB
initials stands for 1982
Workshop’s Serial number
mark
Underside of a vase
This set of four tiles features a pattern of
pomegranates, grapes, rosettes and lilies.
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A POR TR AIT OF THE NE THERLANDS 33
The first Dutch porcelain Delft design is used here to
was made in 1759 in the North decorate a plane tail. The
Holland town of Weesp. artist Hugo Kaagman
At the time, it was decorated the tails of
second in quality only four British Airways’
to Meissen porcelain. aircraft with blue
However, production Delft designs.
was halted after 10 years
because of financial diffi
culties. In 1774, a new factory
was opened in Loosdrecht,
which was moved to Ouder
Amstel in 1784. This large
vase from 1808 is a typical
example of the Amstel china
that was produced there.
Tiles
Majolica wall tiles – decorated earthenware on a
tinglazed background – were made for the first
time in the Netherlands during the 16th century,
with production reaching its peak in the 17th
century. Until 1625, polychrome decoration
predominated, after which the majority of tiles
were painted in blue on white. Major centres were
Makkum – where in the 17th century the Tichelaar
family firm, which operates to this day, was
established – as well as Harlingen, Delft, Gouda,
Amsterdam, Utrecht and Haarlem. The tiles
depicted here are from Haarlem. (See also p419.)
TAC Colenbrander
One of the biggest names in Art Nouveau
pottery is TAC Colenbrander (1841–1930).
Originally an architect, he became known for his
fanciful floralbased designs for the Rozenburg
earthenware and porcelain factory in The Hague,
where he was chief designer from 1884 to 1889.
As celebrated as his designs were, the ceramics
had limited commercial success. One reason for
this was their expense, a reflection of the labour
intensive production. In 1912–13, Colenbrander
worked for the ZuidHolland pottery in Gouda.
In addition to pottery, he designed wallpaper
and carpets, and worked as a graphic and
interior designer.
The lily often features as a
corner motif on Dutch tiles.
The Art Nouveau plate by WP Hartgring was
made in 1904, the same year as this master potter
won a gold medal at the
world exhibition at the
St Louis World’s Fair.
Hartgring worked
for 20 years at the
Rozenburg factory
in The Hague and
for 10 years at
the ZuidHolland
pottery. His
works reflect the “Day and Night” set by Colenbrander, 1885
Japanese style.
032-033_EW_Netherlands.indd 33 16/01/17 12:02 pm
34 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
The Netherlands in Bloom
The Dutch love affair with flowers began rather
unromantically in homes during the 17th century, when
flowers were used to keep bad smells at bay. The
aesthetic aspect soon developed, and today the
Netherlands is one of the world’s most important flower-
growing countries. It has an unrivalled distribution
system, keeping Holland ahead of competition from
countries such as Israel, Spain, Colombia, Kenya, Fields of flowers are not confined
Zimbabwe and Zambia. The Netherlands has a to the west of the country. These
92 per cent share of the world market for flowers. rose fields are outside Lottum in the
north of the southern province of
Limburg, where every year a special
Tulips were rose competition is held.
introduced to
Holland from Turkey
in the 17th century.
They became the
subject of an
unparalleled
speculative bubble
which has become
known as “tulip
mania”. Today the
tulip is considered
a quintessentially
Dutch product,
with innumerable
varieties.
The annual
flower
competition
(bloemen
corso) in the
bulb-growing
region is a
grand event
(see p36).
Cut Flowers From Dutch Nurseries
As consumers have become increasingly The chrysanthemum
(Chrysanthemum)
demanding, the number of flower species and originated in China.
varieties is constantly on the rise. Consumer
tastes vary from place to place: in France,
gladioli are very popular, whereas in Great
Britain, it is lilies and carnations. In Asia,
tulips are in great demand. A small
sample of the flowers grown The iris (Iris)
commercially in the Netherlands flower and bulb
is shown here.
are in demand.
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A POR TR AIT OF THE NE THERLANDS 35
The sandy soil in the high
areas behind the dunes of
Holland is known as “geest
soil” and is very well suited
for cultivating bulbs.
Not all daffodil
bulbs can survive
the winter.
Crocus
bulbs Hyacinth bulbs
should be range in colour from
planted in violet red to white.
September.
Tulip bulbs are
highly resistant to
disease and pests.
Iris bulbs should be
dug up after flowering.
Flower Sellers
Flower sellers are part and parcel of the
Netherlands’ street scene. They can also be
found indoors, in places such as stations or
shopping centres. In most countries, cut flowers
are considered expensive and a luxury. In the
Netherlands, however, they are practically a daily
shopping item and quite cheap. The Netherlands
is indeed the land of flowers par excellence.
The lilac (Syringa) The carnation The rose (Rosa) is
Dahlias (Dahlia) come is often bought for (Dianthus) is loved known as “the queen
in 20,000 varieties. its fragrance. as a spray. of flowers”.
034-035_EW_Netherlands.indd 35 16/01/17 12:02 pm
36 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
THE NETHERLANDS
THROUGH THE YEAR
The Netherlands has much to offer in Rotterdam, are much more modern.
the way of holidays, festivals and other Many of the events are held to honour
events. The choice of cultural events is naviga tion and fishing, such as Flag
greatest in summer – several cities host Day (Vlaggetjesdag), held each May
theatre festivals in June. Some festivals, in Scheveningen. Music, too, plays a
such as Leiden’s 3-Oktoberfeesten, have prominent role. The world-renowned
deep historical roots, whereas others, such North Sea Jazz festival brings the
as the multicultural Zomercarnaval in genre’s greats to Rotterdam.
Spring
In March, daffodils and
crocuses burst into bloom
in the country’s towns and
villages. From mid-April
onwards, when the tulips
are in flower, the bulb fields
along the Dutch coast are
a spectacular sight to see.
March
Meezing Matthäus (Easter),
Amsterdam and elsewhere.
Concert-goers are welcome
to sing along during many Blossoming fruit tree in the Betuwe
performances of Bach’s
St Matthew’s Passion. of Brielle (Den Briel) recreate in the country are opened
Keukenhof (end Mar to mid- the 1572 recovery of the up to the public.
May), near Lisse. These 32 ha city from the Spaniards. Vlaggetjesdag (Flag Day)
(79 acres) of landscape Foto Biënnale (Apr to Jul), (May), Scheveningen. The
gardens demonstrate the Amsterdam and other cities. arrival of the first herring catch
best of all the flowers Holland Biannual international of the season is celebrated
has to offer. This open-air photography exhibition takes with demonstrations of
exhibition was started in place in even-numbered years. traditional fishing-related
1949, and has become Bloemen Corso (Flower crafts, music and a race.
internationally renowned. Competition) (late Apr), Aspergerie Primeur
Bollenstreek. Floats with floral (Ascension Day), Venlo. In
April sculptures travel a 40-km a festive atmosphere on a
First of April Celebrations, (25-mile) route through re-created old-time village
Brielle. Dressed in 16th-century- Haarlem, Hillegom, Lisse green, visitors can tuck into
style clothing, the inhabitants and Noordwijk. deliciously cooked asparagus.
Koningsdag (King’s Day) Keidagen (around Ascension
(27 Apr). The birthday of King Day), Lochem. Five days of
Willem-Alexander sees
festivities throughout the
land; the biggest event is
held in Amsterdam.
May
Landelijke Fietsmaand
(National Cycling Month)
(all month). Cycling activities
throughout the country.
Nationale Moldendag
(National Windmill Day)
A young street musician on King’s Day (second Sat in May). Some Flag Day, the start of the new herring
in Amsterdam 600 of the 1,000 windmills fishing season
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THE NE THERLANDS THROUGH THE Y EAR 37
music, funfairs, street fairs
and performances by
international artists.
Sloepenrace (Boat Regatta).
A regatta from Harlingen
to Terschelling.
Jazz in Duketown (around
Whitsun), ’s-Hertogenbosch.
Four days of open-air high-
quality jazz and blues bands
at various venues in town.
The beer flows freely.
Summer
Summer in the Netherlands is
a time of major cultural events.
These include the Holland The increasingly popular boat race to Terschelling
Festival in Amsterdam, the
Theater a/d Werf in Utrecht, Helder. A chance to see frigates, Zomercarnaval (Summer
the Parade (Amsterdam, submarines, torpedo boats Carnival) (last Sat in Jul),
Utrecht, The Hague, Rotterdam), and mine hunters belonging Rotterdam. A lively Caribbean
and the Haagse Zomer in The to the Netherlands Navy, with carnival with exotic music,
Hague. And if theatre is not spectacular shows put on by plenty to eat and drink and
your favourite pastime, there the Netherlands Marines. a swirling procession.
are plenty of other activities
to keep you entertained. July August
Oud Limburgs Schuttersfeest Gay Pride (first weekend in Aug),
June (Marksman’s Festival) (first Sun Amsterdam. One of the very
Holland Festival (3 weeks in Jul). The annual tournament best Prides in the world; the
of Jun), venues by the marksmen of highlight is the Canal Parade.
throughout Limburg is a colourful Mosselfeesten (Mussel Festivals)
Amsterdam and major folk event held in the (third Sat in Aug), Yerseke; (last
cities. A varied hometown of the previous weekend in Aug), Philippine.
programme of concerts, year’s winner. Harvest festival presenting the
plays, opera and ballet. North Sea Jazz (mid-Jul), new crops of Zeeland.
Aaltjesdag (Eel Day) Rotterdam. A three-day Preuvenemint (last weekend in
(second Sat in Jun), spectacle widely acknowl- Aug), Maastricht. Flamboyant
Harderwijk. Major edged as the world’s largest festival of food and drink at
fishing celebration jazz festival, featuring the historical Vrijthof.
in this former harbour performances by the Uitmarkt (last weekend in Aug),
on the Zuider Zee. biggest names in jazz. Amsterdam. Festive opening
Oerol Festival (mid- Herring-eating Tilburgse kermis (Tilburg of the theatre season with
Jun), Terschelling. by hand Fair) (end Jul). One of the perfor mances and information
This alternative biggest and most exuberant booths. There is also a book
cultural festival lasts for ten fairs in Holland, with a special fair, where literary publishers
days, with clowns, street gay Pink Monday. are represented.
theatre, acrobats, pop concerts
and music from around
the world.
Poetry International (mid-Jun),
Rotterdam. Prestigious poetry
festival featuring an inter-
national programme, in
Rotterdam’s Doelen district.
Pasar Malam Besar (second half
of Jun), The Hague. This festival
of Indonesian music and dance,
shadow puppets, cooking
demonstrations and colourful
eastern market takes place at
Malieveld in The Hague.
Nationale Vlootdagen (Navy
days) (end Jun/early Jul), Den North Sea Jazz, one of the world’s major jazz events
036-037_EW_Netherlands.indd 37 16/01/17 12:02 pm
38 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
The Nijmegen Fair, a popular tradition dating back centuries
Vliegerfeest (Kite Festival) 3 October 1574. Permanent
Autumn (mid-Sep), Scheveningen. fixtures in the festivities are
As the cold weather starts For two days, hundreds of the distribution of herring
slowly but surely to set in, strange creations hover over and white bread to the
indoor events become more the beach. townspeople, as well as the
prominent. In autumn, the Jordaanfestival (second and procession and funfair.
theatres are full in the third weeks in Sep), Amsterdam. Eurospoor (mid-to late Oct),
evenings, and museums are Fairs, street parties, talent Utrecht. Europe’s biggest
routinely busy. However, contests and live music are model train show takes
open-air events are still held, held in the southern part of the place in the Jaarbeurs.
the golden light of dusk and picturesque former working-
magnificent clouds adding class district of Jordaan.
to the atmosphere. Prinsjesdag (third Tue in Sep),
The Hague. Accompanied
September by high-ranking government
Monumentendag (Monument officials and with a guard
Day) (second Sat in Sep). of honour, the king rides in
Private historic buildings his golden carriage from
open to the public. Noordeinde Palace to the
Fruitcorso (second weekend Binnenhof (Parliament
in Sep), Tiel. Spectacular Building), where he makes
parade of floats with his Royal Speech in the
gigantic fruit sculptures. Ridderzaal (Hall of the
Knights) in order to open
the Dutch Parliament.
Nijmeegse kermis (Nijmegen
fair) (end Sep/early Oct). Held
every year since the 13th
century, the fair stretches Soldiers accompanying the King before he
ribbon-like through the centre makes his Royal Speech in the Ridderzaal
of the city. On Mondays and
Tuesdays are the “piekdagen”, November
when children can visit the Sint-Maarten (11 Nov), Western
attractions for the entrance and Northern Netherlands.
fee of 50 cents. In the early evening, children
equipped with lanterns walk
October from door to door, singing
3-Oktoberfeesten, Leiden. songs, for which they are
A large public festival to given sweets.
An elaborate fruit sculpture at the commemorate the relief Intocht van Sinterklaas
Tiel Fruitcorso of Leiden from its siege on (arrival of St Nicholas)
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THE NE THERLANDS THROUGH THE Y EAR 39
(second or third week in Nov). from the celebrations of
St Nicholas is celebrated in St Nicholas, Christmas and
every town and village in the New Year.
Holland. He arrives by ship
near St Nicholaaskerk (see p95) December
and then rides on his grey Sinterklaasavond (St Nicholas’s
horse through town. Until Day) (5 Dec). St Nicholas ends
5 December, children with St Nicholas’s Eve on 5
traditionally sing Nicholas December. Both young and
carols in the evenings, and old are brought gifts, more
every morning find sweets often than not in person by (a
in their shoes. hired) Santa Claus. Friends give
poems caricaturing each other. The latest boats on display at the
Cirque d’Hiver (between annual Hiswa
Christmas and New Year’s Eve),
Roermond. Four days of Scheveningen, and hundreds
world-class circus acts in the of people in swimsuits run
Oranjerie theatre hotel, in down the beach to take a dip
the historic town centre. in the ice-cold water.
New Year’s Eve (31 Dec). The Leidse Jazzweek (mid-Jan),
Dutch spend the last evening Leiden. Throughout the week,
of the old year in festive jazz of all styles is played in
surroundings at home or the halls and cafés of the
with friends. Fritters and old town.
apple turnovers are eaten
and, in many houses, the February
champagne corks pop at Hiswa (Feb or Mar), Amsterdam.
The distribution of white bread in midnight. Afterwards, people Boat show in the RAI (see p141),
celebration of the relief of Leiden walk the streets to see in the featuring all types of crafts,
New Year with organized and from dinghies to yachts.
individual firework displays. Carnival (Feb or Mar). Officially
Winter
three, but in practice five, days
December aside, there are January before Lent, the Catholic south
not as many events in the Nieuwjaarsduik (New Year’s celebrates wildly. There are
winter calendar as there are Dip) (1 Jan), Scheveningen. processions with colourful
for the rest of the year – Every year, at noon on New floats, and costumed people
perhaps to the relief of those Year’s Day, a starting-gun sing and dance in the cafés
who need January to recover is fired on the pier in and in the streets.
The arrival of St Nicholas, attracting a great deal of attention
038-039_EW_Netherlands.indd 39 16/01/17 12:02 pm
40 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
The Climate in the Netherlands
GRONINGEN
The Netherlands has a maritime climate, WEST FRISIAN
characterized by cool summers and mild winters. ISLANDS Leeuwarden Groningen
In summer, the average maximum temperature is
around 20°C (68°F), while in winter the average FRIESLAND
minimum temperature is around 0°C (32°F). It is
slightly warmer south of the country’s big rivers than Assen
north of them, and there are slightly more hours
of sunshine on the coast than inland. Because of the
temperature difference between the land and the DRENTHE
sea, there is a constant westerly sea breeze on
the coast in summer.
NORTH
DEN HELDER HOLLAND
Lelystad Zwolle
19/66
18/64
˚C/ ºF 14/57 14/57 Haarlem FLEVOLAND OVERIJSSEL
13/55
9/48 9/48 Amsterdam
7/45
5/41 5/41 Enschede
2/36
1/34 Apeldoorn
48 111 227 212 145 50
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs The Hague
76 45 32 67 76 79 Utrecht GELDERLAND
mm mm mm mm mm mm SOUTH UTRECHT
month Jan Mar May Jul Sep Nov HOLLAND Arnhem
Rotterdam
Nijmegen
’s-Hertogenbosch
ZEELAND NORTH BRABANT
Middelburg
Eindhoven
DE BILT BEEK LIMBURG
21/70 22/72
19/66 Average 19/66
17/63 18/64
˚C/ºF maximum ˚C/ºF
12/54 temperature 13/55
9/48 10/50 9/48 Average 10/50 10/50
7/45 8/46 9/48
5/41 minimum
3/37 temperature 4/39 4/39
1/34 2/36
−1/30 Average hours −1/30 Maas-
54 118 214 191 143 53 44 109 202 181 145 53 tricht
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs of sunshine per hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
76 44 43 82 73 55 month 68 45 62 89 81 62
mm mm mm mm mm mm Average mm mm mm mm mm mm
rainfall
month Jan Mar May Jul Sep Nov month Jan Mar May Jul Sep Nov
per month
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THE NE THERLANDS THROUGH THE Y EAR 41
GRONINGEN
WEST FRISIAN
ISLANDS Leeuwarden Groningen
FRIESLAND
Assen
DRENTHE
Spring
NORTH
HOLLAND
Lelystad Zwolle
Haarlem FLEVOLAND OVERIJSSEL
Amsterdam
Enschede
Apeldoorn
The Hague
Utrecht GELDERLAND
SOUTH UTRECHT Summer
HOLLAND Arnhem
Rotterdam
Nijmegen
’s-Hertogenbosch
ZEELAND NORTH BRABANT
Middelburg EELDE
Eindhoven
21/70
18/64
16/61
˚C/ ºF
LIMBURG 12/54 Autumn
9/48
8/46 8/46
6/43
4/39
3/37
−1/30 0/32
46 104 214 183 142 50
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
72 46 53 95 72 66
mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Jan Mar May Jul Sep Nov
Maas-
tricht
Winter
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INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS 43
THE HISTORY OF THE
NETHERLANDS
In 12 BC, the Romans conquered southern Northern Netherlands liberated itself from
Holland, and in AD 50 they declared the the Habsburg Duke Philip II, and enjoyed a
Rhine the northern border of their empire. period of unprec edented economic and
The region north of this was conquered by cultural flowering. By the mid-17th century,
the Frisians. At the end of the 4th century, the it had become the greatest trading nation
Romans withdrew from the Low Countries, in the world, a status grad ually relinquished
which were taken over by the Frisians, Franks during the 18th century.
and Saxons. In the 8th century, the Franks The different independent regions making
ruled the region alone. Christianity was up the republic were joined together under
introduced by the missionary Willibrord in Napoleon, with William I becoming king
695, and was completed under Charlemagne. in 1815. However, unification with Belgium
After the disintegration of the Frankish proved unsuccessful and was officially
Empire, the Netherlands fell under German ended in 1839, although it had already
rule. Actual power was exercized by the ended de facto in 1830.
vassals, of whom the Bishop of Utrecht was In the 20th century, Holland maintained
the most powerful – until the Concordat neutrality during World War I, but suffered
of Worms in 1122, when the German king greatly during World War II. Invaded by the
lost the right to appoint bishops. During Nazis in May 1940, the country was not
the 12th century, the Count of Holland was liberated entirely until May 1945. It subse-
the most important figure in the region. quently developed into one of the most
In the 14th and 15th centuries, the dispute prosperous states within the European
between the two factions – the Hooks and Union. Today, the country remains a cons-
the Cods – marked the end of the feudal titutional monarchy, with the royal family
age. At the end of the 16th century, the enjoying great popularity among the Dutch.
Map of the world from 1564 by the cartographer Ortelius of Antwerp
The IJ at Amsterdam, Viewed from the Mussel Quay, painted by Ludolf Backhuysen (1631–1708)
042-043_EW_Netherlands.indd 43 16/01/17 11:53 am
44 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
Rulers of the Netherlands
In the Middle Ages, the Netherlands were run by local feudal dukes,
as well as by the counts of Holland and the bishops of Utrecht. They
were all officially vassals of the German king. In the 15th century,
the region came under the rule of the House of Burgundy through
marriage alliances, after which it was incorporated into the
Habsburg Empire. In 1581, the Northern Netherlands freed itself
from the Habsburgs. Since then – with some interruptions – the 1559–1567 and 1572–1584
William of Orange, “The Silent”
House of Orange has ruled over parts of what are today called (stadholder of Holland, Zeeland
Holland, initially as stadholders, but from 1815 as monarchs. and Utrecht, under Philip II
until 1581)
1417–1433 Jacoba
of Bavaria
1152–1190 Frederik
c. 685–719 Barbarossa (German
Radboud, King king)
of the Frisians 1342–1364 Jan IV
van Arkel, Bishop
of Utrecht
1312–1355 Jan III
814–840 (Duke of Brabant
Louis the and Limburg)
Pious 885– 1404–1417
Willem VI,
889 Count of
Gerulf, 1203–1222 Willem I, Holland
Count Count of Holland
of
Holland
700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400
BURG UNDY
700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400
936–973
Otto I
(German 1371–1402
king) Willem I, Duke
1345–1354 of Gelre and
918–976 Margaretha of Gulik
Balderik, Bavaria
Bishop of
Utrecht
1433–1467 Philip the
1271–1326 Good (House of
1069–1090 Reinald I, Burgundy)
Egbert II, Count of Gelre
Count of
Friesland, last
of the 1267–1294 Jan I,
Brunonen Duke of Brabant
(from 1288 also
1234–1256 Willem II Duke of Limburg)
1091–1121 (Count of Holland)
Floris II, Count
of Holland
1128–1139
Andries van Kuik
(Bishop of Utrecht)
1256–1296 Floris V
(Count of Holland)
768–814
Charlemagne
044-045_EW_Netherlands.indd 44 16/01/17 11:53 am
THE HIST OR Y OF THE NE THERLANDS 45
1585–1625
Maurits
2013
1559–1567 and 1572–1584 1806–1810 Louis Willem-Alexander
William of Orange, “The Silent” Napoleon (French (king)
(stadholder of Holland, Zeeland viceroy, king of Holland)
and Utrecht, under Philip II
until 1581)
1815–1840
William I (king)
1567–1573 Ferdinand,
Duke of Alva (viceroy
under Philip II)
1625–1647
Frederick-Hendrik
1467–1477 1647–1650
Charles the Bold William II
1672–1702
1477–1482 Maria William III 1898–1948
of Burgundy 1687–1711 Wilhelmina
Johan Willem 1890–1898 Emma
1482–1506 Philip the Friso, stadholder (regent)
Handsome (House of Friesland
of Habsburg) (1696), Prince
of Orange (1702)
1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000
BURG UNDY HABSBURG HUIS VAN ORANJE
1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000
1849–1890
William III
1840–1849
William II
1795–1806 1890–1948
Batavian Republic Wilhelmina
1751–1795 1948–1980
1559–1567 Margaretha of Parma William V Juliana
(governor under Philip II)
1506–1555 1555–1581 1747–1751 1980–2013 Beatrix
Charles V Philip II William IV
Holland and its Monarchy
The Dutch royal family is extremely popular. The
former queen, Beatrix, was the fourth queen in a
row. The present king, Willem-Alexander, is the
country’s first king since 1890.
044-045_EW_Netherlands.indd 45 16/01/17 11:53 am
46 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
Prehistoric and Roman Times
About 13,000 years ago, the Low Countries emerged from
under the ice of the last Ice Age. Temperatures gradually rose,
turning the tundra into areas of forest and marshes, inhabited Utrecht
by nomadic hunters. In the Early Stone Age (4500–2000 BC), Nijmegen
farming communities were established here and there. The
megalith builders were the best known of these settled Maastricht
inhabitants. Around 600 BC, Germanic and Celtic tribes
settled in the Low Countries. They were here when the The Low Countries (AD 50)
Romans conquered the southern part of the region, in the 1st Germanic peoples
century BC. In AD 50, the Romans finally declared the Rhine as Roman territory
the Roman Empire’s northern frontier, establishing Roman Coastline in 3000 BC
settlements in Utrecht and Maastricht.
Megaliths
Between 3400 and 3200 BC, the
inhabitants of the Drenthe plateau built
some 100 megaliths. Of these, 54 have
survived into the present (see pp310–
11). These impressive tombs were once
concealed beneath a mound of sand.
Urns
These urns
date from
1150–800 BC.
The dark rings in this
picture are of the ditches
that originally surrounded
the urn-mounds. The rings
are interrupted at their
southeastern edge, possibly
to represent the symbolic
entrance to the tomb.
4500 BC Farmers settle on the loess land of
55,000 BC Small groups of Neanderthal Zuid Limburg. They have been referred to 1900 BC Start of
people inhabit the surroundings of Hijken as “Bandkeramikers”, or the Linear Pottery the Bronze Age in
and Hoogersmilde. A few hand axes and two Culture, after their striped pottery the Low Countries Bronze Age
campsites have been found sacrificial dagger
10,000 BC 7500 BC 5000 BC 2500 BC 2000 BC
3400–3200 BC
Farmers of the Beaker
Folk build megaliths at
11,000 BC Reindeer hunters of the Drenthe, Overijssel Wheel from
Hamburg Culture inhabit Drenthe and Groningen 2700 BC
046-047_EW_Netherlands.indd 46 16/01/17 12:02 pm
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THE HIST OR Y OF THE NE THERLANDS 47
Where to See
Prehistoric and
Roman Holland
In addition to the megaliths
of Drenthe and the Someren
urnfield, prehistoric graves
have been discovered at
Almere, Hilversum, Vaassen,
Lunteren, Goirle and Rolde,
and at Toterfout/Halfmijl
The Simpelveld Sarcophagus in Brabant, where 16 burial
In the 1930s, a Roman burial urn was excavated at mounds have been restored
Simpelveld near Limburg. The interior of the urn is to their original condition,
decorated with reliefs depicting the exterior and complete with trenches and
the furnishings of a Roman house.
rings of stakes. The urnfield
on the Bosoverheide, a
couple of kilometres west of
The Urnfield the Weert, was, around 800
In 1991, an urnfield dating BC, one of the largest burial
from 600 BC was discovered grounds in northwestern
Europe. Roman finds can be
at Someren near Brabant. It seen in places like Oudheden
had been ploughed under in Leiden (see p221) and the
by farmers during the Valkhof museum in Nijmegen
Middle Ages. The dead were (see p347). The Archeon
cremated in southern archaeological theme park
Holland from 1500 BC, and in Alphen a/d Rijn (see p426)
in northern Holland from is highly informative and
1000 BC. The burial mounds entertaining, for adults and
of Someren were arranged children alike.
closely together, and each
contained its own urn.
Glass Flasks Roman Mask
These Roman flasks from the This mask was found near
Farmer with Plough 2nd century AD were Nijmegen, which was once
The plough was used excavated at Heerlen. the camp of a Roman legion.
in the Iron Age.
450 BC Start of the
1900 BC Start of 750–400 BC First Second Iron Age, or 55–10 BC Batavians settle in the river
the Bronze Age in Iron Age in the La Tène Age area, the Cananefates in the coastal Roman temple
the Low Countries Bronze Age Low Countries area and the Frisians in the north in Elst
sacrificial dagger
1500 BC 1000 BC 750 BC 500 BC 250 BC AD 1
300–100 BC The 57 BC Caesar AD 69–70
1300 BC The Exloo necklace is made Germans expand conquers the Batavian Uprising,
from tin beads from England, Baltic southwards across the Belgae, who followed by the
amber and Egyptian pottery beads Rhine, clashing with inhabit present- re-establishment
Celtic tribes day Belgium of Roman rule
046-047_EW_Netherlands.indd 47 16/01/17 12:02 pm
48 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
Frisians, Franks and Saxons
When the Romans withdrew at the end of the 4th century,
the Low Countries, like the rest of Europe, experienced a Deventer
great migration of peoples. By around 500, the Frisians Dorestad
had spread their territory southwards to the great rivers,
while the Saxons lived east of the IJssel and the Franks had Maastricht
settled in the area south of the great rivers. Approximately
two centuries later, the Franks took over the whole region Kamerijk
as far as the Lauwerszee. With the spread of Christianity The Low Countries (AD 700)
under Charlemagne, the entire area of the Netherlands Frisians
became Christian. After Charlemagne’s death, the region Franks
belonged first to the Middle Kingdom of Lothair, and Saxons
then, from 925, to the German Empire.
The Life of St Boniface
Two episodes in the life of the
Anglo-Saxon missionary
Boniface are illustrated here:
on the left, he is shown
baptizing a convert; on the
right, his martyrdom is
depicted. In 716 and 719,
Boniface went on missionary
expeditions to Friesland. He
was subsequently made
bishop and later archbishop. In
753, he embarked on a further
missionary expedition to
Friesland, which resulted in his
Widukind death the following year.
In 785, Charlemagne defeated
the Saxons led by Widukind. This
The staff is one of Boniface’s
event led to the east of Holland constant possessions. He was
finally being incorporated into reputed to have used it to make a
Charlemagne’s empire. spring well up.
Early Medieval Pottery
For the Frisians, pottery
was an important
barter good, along A convert
being baptized.
with cattle and dye.
Fibula from
Dorestad
Relief showing a
295 Constantius Chlorus defeats the Franks at Roman galley
the battle of the Rhine delta, but allows them
to remain in the Betuwe, where they are used 600–700 Dorestad becomes an
to defend the frontiers important trading settlement
AD 200 400 500 550 600 650
350–400 Romans 500 The territory of the Frisians stretches Frankish denarii
leave the Low from the Zwin in Zeeland Flanders to the
Countries mouth of the Weser in Germany
048-049_EW_Netherlands.indd 48 16/01/17 12:02 pm
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Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm