(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - The Netherlands

UTRECHT  199




0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5





Paleis Soestdijk, its park designed by landscape gardener Zocher



Abcoude
VINKEVEENSE
PLASSEN Vecht BUNSCHOTEN–
SPAKENBURG
LOENEN
Mijdrecht Vinkeveen BAARN
LAGE
COUNTRY ESTATES VUURSCHE SOESTDIJK
ON THE VECHT Loosdrechtse
Plassen
SOEST
Historical centre of Amersfoort, largely
Breukelen AMERSFOORT still preserved
SLOT Bilthoven
ZUYLEN
Maarssen
Groenekan Soesterberg Leusden
Vleuten De Bilt
WOERDEN UTRECHT
NIEUWE HOLLANDSE WATERLINIE
Harmelen Zeist Woudenberg
De Meern
UTRECHT
Utrecht Heuvelrug
Nieuwegein Driebergen
Montfoort
DOORN Veenendaal
OUDEWATER
IJsselstein Houten
Leersum
Tull en
‘t Waal AMERONGEN
Vianen Neder Rijn
Lopik WIJK BIJ Elst
DUURSTEDE
RHENEN
Lek
Sights at a Glance
1 Vinkeveense Plassen q Bunschoten-Spakenburg
2 Loenen w Utrecht pp204–9
3 Slot Zuylen e Amersfoort
4 Woerden r Doorn
5 Oudewater t Wijk bij Duurstede
6 Nieuwe Hollandse Waterlinie y Amerongen
7 Country Estates along the Vecht u Rhenen
8 Baarn/Soest
The Windmill at Wijk by Jacob van 9 Soestdijk
Ruisdael (see p128) 0 Lage Vuursche
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410


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200  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

1 Vinkeveense
Plassen
Road Map C3. @ s
De Vinkeveense Plassen
(Vinkeveense Lakes) came about
through human intervention –
this site was once marsh. The
thick peat layers have been
excavated over the centuries.
The large towns in the surrounding
area needed peat; sales of this
fuel meant that the people here
started to earn a decent living.
The peat was therefore dug up
more and more extensively,
eventually leading to a large
area of lakes.
Today, the Vinkeveense Lakes
attract many watersports lovers,
cyclists and walkers. When it’s not
the breeding season, you can take
a rowing boat through the nature Stately Slot Zuylen, where Belle van Zuylen lived in the 18th century
reserve of Botshol, which is home
to marsh and grassland birds. summerhouses and boathouses, 3 Slot Zuylen
built over the centuries. It is now Road Map C4. @ 36,120. Castle:
a protected village.
2 Loenen Kasteel Loenersloot, built on Tournooiveld 1, Oud-Zuilen. Tel 030-
2440255. Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm
the bank of the Angstel, is one
Road Map C3. * 8,350. Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm Sat
@ ( Tue am. of Loenen’s oldest country & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25, 26 &
estates. The building dates back 31 Dec. & 8 ∑ slotzuylen.nl
In the 10th century, this place to the 13th century, though
was called Lona, meaning “water” only the round defence tower The original U-shaped castle
or “mud”. Loenen fell under two remains; the rest dates from the was built around 1520 on the
jurisdictions and has two courts 17th and 18th centuries. remains of a medieval residential
dating from the beginning of the tower. At the beginning of the
18th century. Loenen on the Vecht + Kasteel Loenersloot 16th century, a new castle
is famous for its rural atmosphere, Rijksstraatweg 211. 8 Apr–Oct: Thu was built on the foundations
castles and country estates & Sat. ∑ utrechtslandschap.nl/ of the old house and the
complete with coach houses, loenersloot gateway was added. Up to
the 18th century, extensive
rebuilding brought the castle
into line with contemporary
architectural style.
The author Belle van Zuylen
(1740–1805) was one of the
castle’s most famous inhabi-
tants. She was renowned for her
correspondence at home and
abroad, which she cleverly
used to show her modern
attitude. Several rooms are
furnished as they were when
she resided here.
The serpentine wall that
runs alongside the castle
is interesting because its
unique shape provides so
much protection that even
in this cool sea climate,
subtropical fruits such as
peaches and grapes can
Loenen on the Vecht still boasts an aristocratic appearance flourish here.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.4)
Date 25th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

UTRECHT  201

4 Woerden their innocence. Oudewater
was the only place where
Road Map C4. * 34,800. £ @
( Sat am. “witches” could be legally
weighed in public.
Woerden came into being on
the dykes along the Rhine and P Heksenwaag
Lange Linschoten. Granted its Leeuweringerstraat 2. Tel 0348-563400.
town charter in 1372, it has Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun;
been besieged many times but Jun–Aug: daily; Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm
always managed to hold out. Sat & Sun. & 7 ground floor.
Between 1575 and 1576, during ∑ heksenwaag.nl
the Thirty Years War, the
Spaniards tried to conquer 6 Nieuwe Hollandse
Woerden, as did the French in
1672, but neither invader Nesting storks in Oudewater Waterlinie
succeeded in capturing the Road Map C3–C4.
town. Impenetrable kasteel van Utrecht fought fiercely for ∑ hollandsewaterlinie.nl
Woerden (Woerden castle), built Oudewater, which was
between 1405 and 1415, was converted into a border The Nieuwe Hollandse Waterlinie
extensively restored around 1990. stronghold by Floris V. In 1349, (New Dutch Inundation Line),
In the 18th century, the Oude Oudewater was captured by Jan laid out from 1815 to 1940, is
Hollandse Waterlinie (old van Arkel, the Bishop of Utrecht. comprised of 68 forts and
Holland waterline) – a strip of In 1572, Oudewater sided with public works, from Muiden and
land flooded as a defence line – the Prince of Orange and, as a Naarden in North Holland to
was extended, thereby result, the town was seized in Werkendam in North Brabant.
strengthening Woerden. 1575 by the Spanish. They Utrecht has 27 installations,
exacted a bloody revenge by more than any other province.
burning the town to the ground. The Waterlinie was intended as
5 Oudewater Oudewater flourished again a defence against invading
during Holland’s Golden Age. armies; a wide strip of land
Road Map C4. * 10,000. @
n Leeuweringerstraat 10 (0348- The town’s most famous would simply be flooded.
561628). ( Wed. ∑ oudewater.net attraction is the scales, dating Utrecht’s installations are now
from the 16th century, better being protected, and have
This little town, thanks to its known as the heksenwaag been put forward for UNESCO’s
favourable position on the IJssel (witches’ scales). Women who World Heritage Site register. The
and the Linschoten, became a were suspected of witchcraft original reconnaissance positions
prosperous town early on and, came here to be weighed. If and unimpeded lines of fire will
by 1265, had been granted its their weight and their outward hopefully be preserved. The best
city charter. The counts of appearance tallied, they were installations are at Rijnauwen,
Holland and the bishops of given a certificate as proof of Groenekan en Tull and ’t Waal.























“Bombproof” barracks of the Nieuwe Hollandse Waterlinie (Fort Rijnauwen, Bunnik)




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7 Country Estates along VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
the Vecht Practical Information
Road Map C4. Vechtstreek­
Country estate houses, with their summerhouses, museum: Diependaalsedijk 19,
magnificent railings and extensive gardens, can be Maarssen. Tel 0346­554440.
seen threaded along the Vecht, especially between Open May–Sep: 11am–5pm
Wed–Sun; Oct–Apr: 2–5pm
Maarssen and Loenen. They were built in the 17th and Wed–Sun. & 7 ground floor.
18th centuries by wealthy Amsterdam inhabitants who
wanted to escape the noise and stench of the city in the
summer. The estates were status symbols, places where
city-dwellers could devote themselves to hobbies such Goudestein in Maarssen
as tree cultivation, hunting and still-life painting. One of the first country estates in
the Vecht, Goudestein was built
in 1628 by Joan Huijdecoper. The
The chimneys present building, which dates from
were considered 1775, is now used as government
to be decorative offices. The coach house is now a
elements. fascinating pharmacy museum.


Nijenrode
A university has now
been set up in this
castle formerly
belonging to the
Lords of Nijenrode.
















The coat of
arms of the
Huijdecoper
family decorates
the façade.
The entrance
has an impressive The house contains
flight of a grand staircase and
stone steps. rooms furnished with
decorative drapes.
One of the rooms
Between Breukelen and is now used for
Loenen the Vecht resembles wedding ceremonies.
an architectural museum. The
country estates (Vechtvliet is
shown here) are surrounded
by established parks and
ornamental outbuildings.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410


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UTRECHT  203

8 Baarn/Soest
Roadmap C3. £ @ * 70,000.
n Van Weedestraat 131, Soest (035-
7400074). ( Baarn Tue, Soest Thu.
During the Netherlands’ Golden
Age, regents and wealthy mer-
chants had splendid summer
residences built in Baarn and its
environs. This place has retained
its leafy, elegant appearance. The
Kasteel Groeneveld (1710) lies
in the middle of a magnificent
park. Soest’s past is pre-9th century,
and the old centre remains largely
in its original state. The church
dates from 1400. The surrounding Bunschoten-Spakenburg, once home to an important fishing industry
area is beautiful and offers a
wealth of leisure activities. The small octagonal castle into being in the 15th century.
Drakenstein, which dates back It was once an important
+ Kasteel Groeneveld to 1640–43, is the residence of fishing town; its smoke-
Groeneveld 2. Tel 035-5420446. Princess Beatrix, former Queen houses, fishermen’s houses
Castle: Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. of the Netherlands. and shipbuilding yard
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 & 31 Dec. are reminders of this time.
& Park: Open sunrise–sunset Tue– When the Zuiderzee was
Sun. 7 - ∑ kasteelgroeneveld.nl q Bunschoten- closed in 1932 because of
Spakenburg partial land reclamation,
the inhabitants had to
9 Soestdijk Road Map C3. * 19,500. look for other work. Some
@ n Oude Schans 90 (033-
Road Map C3. n Van Weedestraat 2982156). ( Sat. of the women in the town
still wear traditional dress.
131, Soest (035-7400074). Paleis
Soestdijk: Amsterdamsestraatweg Over the years, the towns of Museum Spakenburg brings
1, Baarn (035-5412841). Bunschoten and Spakenburg the fishing activities of the
Open Check website for details. have merged into one another. past back to life.
∑ paleissoestdijk.nl Livestock farming was the
traditional livelihood in E Museum Spakenburg
Just outside Baarn lies Paleis Bunschoten, and there are Oude Schans 47–63. Tel 033-2983319.
Soestdijk. It was built in 1674 still some pretty farms to see Open Apr–Oct: 1:30–5pm Mon,
as a place for Viceroy William III here. Bunschoten, granted its 10am–5pm Tue–Sat; Nov–Mar:
to hunt. In 1815, it came into town charter in 1383, is older 1–4pm Wed–Sat. & 7
the hands of the crown prince, than Spakenburg, which came ∑ museumspakenburg.nl
who later became King William
II. The two wings of the palace
were added in 1816 and the
park was designed by landscape
gardener Zocher. The Naald
van Waterloo (Waterloo needle)
stands opposite, erected in
honour of William Frederick,
Prince of Orange, for his services
during the Battle of Waterloo.

0 Lage Vuursche
Road Map C3. * 250. @ n Van
Weedestraat 131, Soest (035-7400074).
The name “Furs” for Lage
Vuursche has been around
since 1200, though the village
itself has existed only since
the 17th century. The village,
surrounded by woodland, is
very popular with ramblers. Outdoor cafés in Lage Vuursche offering respite after a walk in the woods




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w Street-by-Street: Utrecht

The area to the south of the centre gives one
a good idea of how people once lived in Utrecht.
Rich citizens lived in the stately houses on
the Nieuwegracht, with its typical Utrecht
wharves, and built almshouses for their less
fortunate neighbours. No doubt because of the
great number of museums in this area, it came
to be called Museumkwartier (museum district). Z U I L E N S T R A AT
The old city walls gave way to a magnificent K O R T E S M E E S T R A A T
park which was designed by landscape
gardener Zocher.
O U D E G R A C H T




A A T
R
T
S
W
U
E
I
N
V R O U W J U T T E N S T R A AT
. Oudegracht A N G E
The Oudegracht represented a vital
transport route for the economy of L
Utrecht in the 13th century. When the
water level fell, cellars were built along
the wharves. These were used as
warehouses or workshops. Today, some
of them house cafés and restaurants.


Centraal Museum
The rich and varied contents
include works by the 16th-century
artist Jan van Scorel, as well as the
largest collection of Rietveld
furniture in the world. S T R A A T
A G N I E T E N

0 metres 100
0 yards 100







Almshouses
The Pallaeskameren (Pallaes rooms) are 12
little almshouses built on the instructions of
Maria van Pallaes in 1651.The inhabitants had
free accommodation and a certain amount
of food and drink annually.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.7)
Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

UTRECHT  205


Cathedral BRIGIT TENSTR AAT VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map C4. * 340,000.
∑ visit-utrecht.com
n Domplein 9–10 (0900-
1288732). ( Wed, Fri &
A C H T B R U N T E N H O F Sat. _ Liberation festival:
5 May; Festival Oude Muziek:
end Aug; Netherlands Film
G R Festival: end Sep.
Z U I L E N S T R A AT Transport
N I E U W E @ Stationsplein.
£ Stationsplein.



S E R V A A S B O L W E R K












A C H T . Catharijneconvent
Museum Catharijneconvent (Lange
Nieuwstraat 38) is devoted to
N I E U W E G R religious art. It is located in the
former St Catherine’s convent,
dating back to 1468. Part of the
convent church dates from 1529.






S T R A A T
A G N I E T E N


Key
Recommended route
Nederlands
Spoorwegmuseum
(Dutch railway museum)
Old carriages and steam
locomotives can be seen
Sonnenborgh in the former Maliebaan
The 19th-century Station, dating back to the
observatory, now home 19th century. The exhibition
to an astronomy room features the history of
museum, was the Dutch railways.
established on one
of the four bulwarks
along the Singel.




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206  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring Utrecht 15th-century former convent.
Its fascinating collection
Utrecht, founded by the Romans in AD 47, has been a provides a good overview
bishopric and university town for centuries. It has grown into of the troubled history of
a lively city, thanks to its central position. Utrecht was very Christianity in the Netherlands.
prosperous during the 16th and 17th centuries, when many It includes paintings by,
among others, Rembrandt van
of the magnificent canalside houses were built. These houses Rijn, ancient manuscripts and
are a characteristic feature of the town centre, as are the richly decorated books. The
medieval churches and monasteries. The city centre is museum also houses numerous
compact, so is very suitable for exploring on foot. visiting exhibitions. From the
museum you can enter into
the Catharijnekerk (1529).
of the church was connected to
the tower by an arch, allowing the
bishop to move safely to and from E Centraal Museum
the church. In 1674, the nave was Agnietenstraat 1. @ Tel 030-2362362.
destroyed by a hurricane. The tower Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun.
has stood on its own since then. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7
The interior of the church, with 8 - ∑ centraalmuseum.nl
its stained-glass windows, Neo- Centraal Museum, the oldest
Gothic organ (1831) and magnif- municipal museum in the
icent chancel, is worth a visit. Netherlands, has a large and
extremely varied collection,
the oldest pieces of which date
E Aboriginal Art Museum from the Middle Ages. Extensive
Oudegracht 176. @ Tel 030-2380100. rebuilding and renovations
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm were carried out in 1999
Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, and 2015, giving rise to an
25 Dec. & 7 - = ∑ aamu.nl interesting combination of
This museum, the only one of old and new. The museum has
its kind in Europe, is devoted the largest collection of Gerrit
to the many different styles of Rietveld furniture in the world.
The 112-m (367-ft) Domtoren rises Aboriginal art, including painting Works by Utrecht artists such
above the town and sculpture. The focus is on as Van Scorel and Bloemaert,
traditional art produced in as well as 20th-century artists
P Domtoren Australian co-operatives. such as Pyke Koch and Dick
Domplein. @ Tel 030-2360010. Bruna – creator of the children’s
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon– E Museum character Nijntje (Miffy) – are
5pm Sun–Mon.Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, Catharijneconvent also showcased. Bruna’s works
25 & 26 Dec. & 8 obligatory. Lange Nieuwstraat 38. @ are shown in the Brunahuis
∑ domtoren.nl Tel 030-2313835. Open 10am–5pm across the road. The varied
The first thing you will see from Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat, Sun & hols. exhibitions range from
the distance is the Domtoren Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr. & 7 8 - traditional art to fashion and
(cathedral tower) rising above the = ∑ catharijneconvent.nl historical costumes, to modern
town. The Dom (cathedral) has The museum is split between art and applied art and design,
become the symbol of the town. a canalside house and a to the local history of Utrecht.
Utrecht came into being on the
Domplein (cathedral square),
where the Romans had a
settlement in the 1st century AD.
In 695, Bishop Willibrord
established himself here. In 1040,
Bishop Bernold ordered a “cross
of churches” to be built, which
meant four churches with the
later Domkerk in the centre. Work
began on building the Domkerk
in 1254 and in 1321 on the tower.
The Gothic tower was finally
finished in 1382.
Collegiate churches usually
have two towers, but the
Domkerk has only one. The nave The Matchmaker by Gerard van Honthorst in the Centraal Museum
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410


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UTRECHT  207


trains line the platforms. E Universiteitsmuseum
Children can ride around Lange Nieuwstraat 106. @ Tel 030-
the museum grounds on 2538008. Open 10am–5pm daily.
a miniature railway. Adults Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. &
and children alike will enjoy 7 8 - =
the exhibition inside, which ∑ universiteitsmuseum.nl
includes old advertising The Universiteitsmuseum is in
posters and model trains. a purpose-built building close
to the Centraal Museum. The
collection here covers education
E Nationaal Museum since the university was established
Speelklok tot Pierement in 1636 and includes weighing
Steenweg 6. @ Tel 030-2312789. and measuring instruments
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & hols and a “collection of curiosities”.
(also Mon in school hols). Closed 1 Jan, Behind the museum is the
27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7 8 - University of Utrecht’s lovely Old
∑ museumspeelklok.nl Botanical Garden (1723), which
Garden of the beautiful inner This museum is inside the is open to the public.
Domkerk quadrangle 13th-century Buurkerk –
Utrecht’s oldest church. The ( Markets
E Nederlands museum’s collection displays the The Vredenburg holds a general
Spoorwegmuseum history of mechanical musical market on Wednesdays and
Maliebaanstation. @ Tel 030- instruments. The showpiece is a Saturdays. On Fridays it holds a
2306206. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun rare 15th-century musical clock. market for ecologically genuine
& public hols (also Mon in school You will also see – and hear – agricultural produce. On Satur-
hols). Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr. & 7 8 pierementen, the large organs days, the Janskerkhof hosts a
- ∑ spoorwegmuseum.nl pushed by organ grinders, music large flower and plant market.
The superb Dutch Railway boxes, fairground organs and On the same day, magnificent
Museum is very appropriately chiming clocks, as well as many bouquets are sold along the
situated in a former railway smaller instruments with Oudegracht, the old canal. The
station, in use from 1874 chiming mechanisms. Many of Breedstraat market, also held on
until 1939. Magnificent old the instruments are demonstrated Saturdays, is the venue of the
locomotives, carriages and on the guided tour. cloth market.

Utrecht City Centre
1 Nationaal Museum VINKENBURG STRAAT AMERSFOORT
Speelklok tot Pierement SCHOUTEN STR. MINREBROEDER JANSSTRAAT
2 Domtoren and Domkerk Vredenburg ANNASTRAAT
SLACHT TELING
3 Aboriginal Art Museum Stadhuis OUD KERKHOF
BAKKERSTRAAT LAUWERSTEEG A.D. WEERDZIJDE VIS MARKT ACHTER SINT PIETER PIETERS KERKHOF KROMME NIEUWEGR
4 Museum Catharijneconvent STADHBRUG DOMSTR.
MASSE
GAST
HEKEL
STEEG
STEENWE G CHOOR STRAAT DOMPLEIN DE DOM ACHTER
Domtoren
Domkerk
National Museum
van Speelklok
MARIAPLAATS WED DOMPLEIN TRANS
MARIASTRAAT
DONKER STR
Aboriginal
Centraal Station LIJNMARKT Art Museum HOF
450m (400 yards) VISSCHE RS N I E U W E G R AC HT
STROSTR. Oude Gracht NIEUWSTR. N I
STR O - STEE G Rietveld
KORTE
Schröder-Huis
HAVERSTRAAT HAMBURGERSTRAAT E U WE GRA C H T
0 metres 200 LA NGE Nieuwe Gracht
SPRINGWEG
ZWAANSTRAAT Museum
STEEG
0 yards 200 CATHARIJNE
Catharijneconvent
ZUILENSTRAAT Nederlands
Spoorwegmuseum
BRANDSTRAAT
NI E UW ST
Key KORTESMEE STR R . Centraal Museum,
Universiteitsmuseum
LANGE SMEESTRAAT
OUDE GRACHT TOLSTEEGZIJDE
SPRINGWEG
Street-by-street map (pp204–5)
For map symbols see back flap
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208  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


Rietveld Schröderhuis The Hanging
Lamp
When designing this house, architect Gerrit Rietveld Rietveld
worked closely with his client, Mrs Schröder, who lived designed this
here from 1924 until her death in 1985. The house was to unusual lamp
epitomize all that was “modern” and broke with many of in around
1922.
the architectural standards of the time. This can be seen
in the design of the top floor, which may be divided in
different ways by sliding partitions, according to the
requirements of the inhabitants. The house was
declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2001.

. Sliding Partitions
Using sliding partitions, the top floor
could be divided into separate rooms
for Mrs Schröder’s children.


















Telephone Seat
The house was to reflect the
modern times in which it was
designed, and so functional items
like the telephone and fuse box
were given a prominent location.


De Stijl
This Dutch artistic movement, founded in 1917, aimed to integrate
art further into everyday life. Proponents wanted to bring painting
and architecture closer together in a new way. The use of colour in
the Rietveld Schröderhuis is one expression of this idea. Rietveld
was a member of De Stijl from 1919, though he disagreed with
certain ideas held by others in the group (see p132).








De Stijl member Theo van Doesburg was mainly interested in straight lines and Intercom
primary colours. The geometric surfaces of this painting do not depict reality but The Schröder’s intercom sign
offer a glimpse of universality. instructed visitors to “First ring.
If no answer use mouthpiece”.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410


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UTRECHT  209


Gerrit Rietveld
The architect VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
always used scale
The skylight in the models when Practical Information
roof above the stairs designing houses, Road Map C4. Prins Hendriklaan
allows additional but could also 50, Utrecht. Tel 030-2362310. Open
light to reach the draw excellent for guided tours only. Closed 1 Jan,
top floor. floor plans 27 Apr, 25 Dec.& ^ 8 11am–
(contrary to what 5pm Tue–Sun (book through
was often said). website). ∑ centraalmuseum.nl
Transport
@ 8.



The Hanging Lamp








. Rietveld Furniture
In 1918, Rietveld
designed what we now
know as the Red Blue
Chair. It was originally
finished in clear
varnish; only in 1923 did
Rietveld paint it in what
would become classic
De Stijl colours.























. Disappearing Corner
The dining corner has a spectacular
feature: when the windows are opened,
the corner disappears. Formerly the view
from here was panoramic but in 1939,
much to Rietveld’s consternation, a road
was built just next to the house.




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210  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

e Amersfoort
Road Map C4. * 149,700. £
@ n Breestraat 1 (0900-
1122364). ( Thu, Fri & Sat.
∑ vvvamersfoort.nl
The old town centre of
Amersfoort contrasts sharply
with the districts that surround
it, which reflect a contemporary
architectural style. The centre is
defined by small streets with
old houses and gardens. The
Muurhuizen (wall houses) were
built on the site of the old
defence ring. The Onze Lieve The 15th-century Koppelpoort, one of Amersfoort’s three surviving gates
Vrouwetoren (Tower of Our
Lady) is difficult to miss. The artspace does not have its own r Doorn
contours of this old chapel can collection but curates exhibitions Road Map C4. * 10,000. @
still be seen in the stones of the on contemporary art and culture, n Langbroekerweg 10 (0343-421020).
pavement. In 1787, the chapel, architecture and design. Attached ( Thu am. ∑ vvvheuvelrug.nl
which was used to store to it is an art school and a shop
gunpowder, was blown up. that sells books on art and other Doorn, originally called Thorheim
The Amersfoortse kei memorabilia. The library, the (home of Thor, god of thunder),
boulder appeared in the town Amersfoot Archives, is a must visit. is a pretty village in wooded
in 1661, when a nobleman bet surroundings. The greatest tourist
he could drag the stone from Environs attraction here is Huis Doorn,
the Leusderheide. Ever since, Some 4 km (2 miles) away, where between 1920 and 1941
Amersfoort has held the annual in the village of Leusden, Kamp the German Kaiser, Wilhelm II,
Keistadfeest (Keistad festival) in Amersfoort is a grim reminder of lived with his retinue. (He fled his
celebration of the event. the area’s history. A Dutch army country after World War I.) The
The Museum Flehite gives barracks was transformed in 1941 kaiser lies buried in a mausoleum
an overview of the history of into a work camp for more than in the castle gardens. The kaiser’s
Amersfoort from the Middle Ages. 35,000 people, including Jewish former garage is now a pavilion
The town was the birthplace of prisoners and Jehovah’s Witnesses. commemorating World War I, and
abstract painter Mondriaan, the Many were later transported to its impact on the Netherlands.
leading light of the De Stijl and concentration camps. The camp The Von Gimborn Arboretum
Neo-Plasticist movements. The also held American and Russian is a 27-hectare botanical garden
house where he was born is now prisoners of war. The site is now begun in 1924. Part of the
home to the Mondriaanhuis a national monument. Several University of Utrecht, it was origi-
voor Constructieve en Concrete commemorative ceremonies nally the private garden of Max
Kunst, a study centre and archive are held each year. von Gimborn, an ink manufacturer
of the artist’s life and work, who was a tree expert and plant
including several of his paintings. E Museum Flehite collector in his spare time.
On the edge of town, housed in Westsingel 50. Tel 033-2471100.
an eye-catching building named Open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm
Eemhuis, is Kunsthal KAdE. This Sat & Sun. Closed Mon & public hols.
& ∑ museumflehite.nl
E Mondriaanhuis voor
Constructieve en Concrete Kunst
Kortegracht 11. Tel 033-4600170.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm
Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec. ∑ mondriaanhuis.nl
E Kunsthal KAdE
Eemplein 77. Tel 033-4225030.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm
Sat–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec.
0 7 = ∑ kunsthalkade.nl
E Kamp Amersfoort
Loes van Overeemlaan 13, Leusden.
Onze Lieve Vrouwetoren, a church tower Tel 033-4613129. Open Tue–Sun. Von Gimborn Arboretum, one of the
in Amersfoort ∑ kampamersfoort.nl Netherlands’ largest gardens
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410


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Date 25th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

UTRECHT  211


One of the country’s largest u Rhenen
gardens, it is home to ten huge Road Map C4. * 19,000. £ @
sequoia trees and a collection of n Markt 20 (0317-612333). ( Thu.
rhodo-dendrons. Although best
visited in spring and summer to Rhenen lies on the north bank
see (and smell) the flowers in of the Rhine, at the border
bloom, the gardens contain plants between the flat Betuwe and
for all seasons. the Utrecht Heuvelrug. This area
was inhabited as far back as the
+ Huis Doorn Iron Age. Many of the town’s
Langbroekerweg 10. Tel 0343-421020. historic buildings were destroyed
Open 1–5pm Wed–Fri, noon–5pm Sat during World War II, but the Late
& Sun. 8 mandatory. & 7 = Gothic Cuneratoren (Cunera
∑ huisdoorn.nl tower), built between 1492 and
Y Von Gimborn Arboretum 1531, escaped the bombs. The
Velperengh 13. Tel 0343-412144 Raadhuis (town hall) dates from
Open daily. & Medieval castle tower in Wijk the Middle Ages. May 1940
∑ gimbornarboretum.nl bij Duurstede saw a fierce battle on the 53-m
(174-ft) Grebbeberg, a long-
“mountain”, despite being just time strategic point in the
t Wijk bij 69 m (225 ft) high. The town lay surrounding area. The victims lie
Duurstede originally on the Via Regia, the buried in the military cemetery.
East of the town, on the
“royal route” from Utrecht to
Road Map C4. * 23,000. @ Cologne. From the 17th to 19th road to Wageningen, is the
n Markt 24 (0343-575995). ( Wed. centuries, tobacco was grown Ouwehands Dierenpark. This
in this area, as is evident by the zoo contains all the favourites,
Dorestad was an important drying sheds which are still like tigers, monkeys and
trade centre in Carolingian times. standing. You can have a proper elephants. There is also a large
Plundering Vikings and a shift in look at an old drying shed in the “bear wood”, the berenbos,
the river basin of the Rhine led Tabaksteelt Museum. In 1672, 20,000 sq m (66,000 sq ft) of
to its decline. In the 13th century, the town’s castle, Kasteel forest-like landscape, where
Wijk (near Dorestad) emerged Amerongen, was destroyed by brown bears and wolves
and became the home of the the French. It was rebuilt in the wander free. Other attractions
Utrecht bishops around 1450. They Dutch Classical style. include a tropical aquarium
brought prosperity and influence and plenty of children’s
to the town until, in 1528, the E Tabaksteelt Museum activities, from a huge, jungle-
bishop lost his secular power. Burg. Jhr van den Boschstraat 46. themed adventure playground
The impressive Kasteel Duurstede Tel 0343-456500. Open Tue–Sun pm. called RavotAapia, to special
dates from the 13th century, 7 & weekends dedicated to
when it was originally built as a + Kasteel Amerongen particular animals, and
donjon, the castle’s fortified inner Drostestraat 20. Tel 0343-563766. educational programmes.
tower, surrounded by a moat. Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun;
This was extended in 1500, and Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm Thu–Sun. Y Ouwehands Dierenpark
bishops lived here until 1580. & 8 mandatory. Grebbeweg 111. Tel 0317-650200.
The castle’s park was laid out ∑ kasteelamerongen.nl Open daily. ∑ ouwehand.nl
in 1850 by Jan David Zocher.
Y Kasteelpark Duurstede
Langs de Wal 7. Castle: Open Apr–Oct:
Tue–Sun (by appt). Park: Open daily.

y Amerongen
Road Map C4. * 7,000. @
n 0343-412015.
Situated on the bank of the
lower Rhine, which can be crossed
by ferry, Amerongen lies in the
ridge of hills known as the
Utrechtse Heuvelrug, a national
park. The Ameron gense Berg
marks the highest point in the
ridge and has earned the name A country house set in one of the large parks surrounding Wijk bij Duurstede




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WESTERN NE THERLANDS  213

SOUTH

HOLLAND


For tourists, South Holland is pure delight. Although
densely populated, the province still has plenty of open
space and offers a remarkable range of attractions for
visitors of all kinds. The landscape is typically Dutch, with
large areas of reclaimed land dotted with windmills and grazing cattle.
From Roman times on, South Holland was port of Rotterdam, one of the largest in
principally a low-lying swampy delta as the world, and The Hague, home of the
the various courses of the river Rhine Dutch government, the royal family and
reached the sea. The influence of the the Inter national Court of Justice. Delft is
counts of Holland (9th–13th centuries), famous for its exquisite hand-painted
who took up residence in The Hague, porcelain and china, while Gouda is
attracted trade with Flanders, Germany renowned for its cheese. The North Sea
and England, and settlements became coast has charming resorts, from busy
towns. Leiden’s university, the oldest in the Scheveningen, with its attractive pier, to
country, was founded as long ago as 1565. the smaller seaside towns of Katwijk and
Peat extraction for fuel created lakes, Noordwijk, with long sandy beaches. It is
reclaimed land (see pp26–7) was turned an ideal region for family holidays and for
into productive farmland, and the Dutch children of all ages.
dairy industry flourished. Other products Visitors in spring are in for a treat when
in international demand included beer they tour the north of the province.
and textiles and, in more recent times, Bulb fields erupt in a riot of colour, and
year-round flowers and the famous Dutch the Keukenhof’s flower gardens are
bulbs. Overseeing all this activity is the simply unforgettable.



























Servants waiting for the queen next to her Golden Coach on the third Tuesday of September (Prinsjesdag)
Sunrise over the windmills at Kinderdijk



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214  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring South Holland

In the north of the province of South Holland are the colourful
bulb fields and the Keukenhof, while in a semi-circle to the
south lie the old university town of Leiden, bustling The
Hague, cosy Delft and the modern port city of Rotterdam.
The islands of South Holland bear witness to the country’s
military history in Hellevoetsluis and Brielle. Ramblers will
find all they wish for in the dunes by Wassenaar or in the river BU LB FIELDS KEUKENHOF
countryside at Leerdam, which is best known for its glass- The 14th-century Huys Dever, near Lisse LISSE
blowing industry. From Gorinchem you can take a passenger Noordwijk
aan Zee
ferry to the 14th-century castle of Slot Loevestein, which
played a key role in the history of Holland. Katwijk Roelofarendsveen
aan Zee
Wassenaar LEIDEN Nieuwkoop
Alphen aan
Voorschoten
den Rijn
SCHEVENINGEN
Bodegraven
Boskoop
THE HAGUE
Zoetermeer
Rijswijk Waddinxveen REEUWIJKSE
Monster PLASSEN
Wateringen
Bleiswijk GOUDA
The Panorama Mesdag in The Hague Hoek van DELFT
Holland ZUID-HOLLAND
Schoonhoven
Europoort Capelle aan
den IJssel
Oostvoorne MAASSLUIS SCHIEDAM ROTTERDAM Bergambacht Lek NIEUWPOORT
BRIELLE Vlaardingen Meerkerk
LEERDAM
Ridderkerk KINDERDIJK
Spijkenisse Hoogvliet Alblasserdam
Barendrecht
Goeree HELLEVOETSLUIS Oude Maas Zwijndrecht Papendrecht GORINCHEM
GOEDEREEDE Oud-Beijerland Sliedrecht
DORDRECHT
’s-Gravendeel
Greenhouses in the Westland
Haringvliet
MIDDELHARNIS
Strijen
Overflakkee
Holla n ds Diep
Getting Around
South Holland has a comprehensive system of roads, Oude-Tonge
and both big cities and small towns can be reached
equally quickly. However, during the morning and
afternoon rush hours you should watch out for traffic
jams. In the centres of the big cities it is best to leave
your car in a car park, as finding an on-street parking
space can often be a problem. Trains are a fast way of
getting from A to B. As a rule you will find a train for your
particular destination departing every quarter or half
hour. Lisse and the bulbfields, Nieuwpoort and the
towns on South Holland’s islands can be reached only
by local bus. VVV and ANWB tourist information offices
provide information on cycling routes. One of the Keukenhof’s spectacular flowering fields
For map symbols see back flap


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Date 5th December 2012
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SOUTH HOLLAND  215


Sights at a Glance
2 Lisse q Gouda pp242–3
3 Keukenhof w Reeuwijkse Plassen
4 Leiden pp218–21 e Nieuwpoort
5 The Hague pp222–9 r Gorinchem
BU LB FIELDS KEUKENHOF 7 Delft pp230–33 y Dordrecht
6 Scheveningen
t Leerdam
u Kinderdijk
8 Maassluis
i Brielle
9 Schiedam
p Middelharnis
Noordwijk LISSE 0 Rotterdam pp234–41 o Hellevoetsluis
aan Zee
a Goedereede
Roelofarendsveen
Katwijk Tour
aan Zee
1 Bulb Fields pp216–17
Wassenaar LEIDEN Nieuwkoop
Alphen aan
Voorschoten
den Rijn
SCHEVENINGEN 0 kilometres 10
Bodegraven 0 miles 5
Boskoop
THE HAGUE
Zoetermeer
Rijswijk Waddinxveen REEUWIJKSE
Monster PLASSEN
Wateringen
Bleiswijk GOUDA
Hoek van DELFT
Holland ZUID-HOLLAND
Schoonhoven
Europoort Capelle aan
den IJssel
Oostvoorne MAASSLUIS SCHIEDAM ROTTERDAM Bergambacht Lek NIEUWPOORT
BRIELLE Vlaardingen Meerkerk
LEERDAM
Ridderkerk KINDERDIJK
Spijkenisse Hoogvliet Alblasserdam
Barendrecht
Goeree HELLEVOETSLUIS Oude Maas Zwijndrecht Papendrecht GORINCHEM
GOEDEREEDE Oud-Beijerland Sliedrecht
DORDRECHT
’s-Gravendeel
Haringvliet
MIDDELHARNIS
Strijen
Overflakkee
Holla n ds Diep
Oude-Tonge


Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border The Flemish Gothic Stadhuis in Gouda
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp410–11


214-215_EW_Netherlands.indd 215 16/01/17 11:56 am

216  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


1 Bulb Fields Tips for Drivers

The Bollenstreek, a 30-km (19-mile) stretch between Haarlem Starting point: Haarlem.
and Leiden, is Holland’s primary bulb-growing area. From Distance: Approximately 30 km
March, the polders are aglow with glorious colours – the (19 miles).
Stopping-off points: Along with
crocuses are the first to flower and the season culminates the places discussed below,
around mid-April with the majestic tulips. The lilies then where various cafés and
follow at the end of May. Visitors without cars can obtain restaurants are to be found,
information about cycle routes from the tourist information Noordwijk aan Zee is worth a
short detour. This lively coastal
office, the VVV, at Lisse. Bikes can be hired at railway stations town, with its wonderful beach
in Haarlem and Heemstede-Aerdenhout. and dunes, makes an ideal place
for a stopover.


Amsterdam
1 Cruquiusmuseum
Haarlem
In this former steam-
driven pumping
Zandvoort station, you
can see how
The dunes of North Holland the people
of Holland
managed to
0 kilometres 4
Aalsmeer keep the water
0 miles 4 in check
(see pp192–3).
Amsterdamse
3 Keukenhof Waterleiding- 2 Linnaeushof
Visitors are greeted by the duinen This huge park, named
intoxicating aroma and vivid after the famous 18th-
colours of millions of Haarlemmermeerpolder century botanist, has
flowering bulbs. one of the biggest
Hillegom • playgrounds in Europe.
5 Sassenheim
To the west of the town 4 Lisse
lie the ruins of Burcht Lisse’s museum
Teylingen, the showcases the bulb-
11th-century castle growing industry; you
where Jacoba of can also take a boat
Bavaria, countess trip on the lakes.
of Holland, died J
in 1436. Noordwijk Ringvaart van de
aan Zee J Key
• Aalsmeer
North Sea Route
Roads


Kager-
plassen
Rijnsburg Leiden/
The Hague
7 Katwijk 6 Voorhout
An unusual early 17th-century Panorama Tulip Land is a panoramic
lighthouse stands to the north painting of the Bollenstreek. Its
of this coastal town, which lies dimensions are enormous: 63 m
on the estuary of the Oude Rijn. (207 ft) wide and 4 m (13 ft) tall. A tulip field in the Bollenstreek

For map symbols see back flap


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SOUTH HOLLAND  217


Flowering Bulbs
Flowers such as gladioli,
lilies, narcissi, hyacinths, irises,
crocuses and dahlias are mainly
grown in the Bollenstreek.
By far the most important,
though, is the tulip, which
originally came from Turkey
and was cultivated by Carolus
Clusius in 1593 for the first time
in the Netherlands.








“Aladdin” tulips

Colourful flowering bulbs in the shady Keukenhof
2 Lisse Environs
Just outside Lisse is Huys Dever,
Map B3. * 20,000. @ 50
(from Leiden & Haarlem) & 90 (from a fortified residential tower which
Noordwijk). n Heereweg 219 (0252- dates from the second half of the
417900). ∑ vvvlisse.nl 14th century. The permanent exhi-
“China Pink” tulips bition at the tower illustrates the
The best time to see Lisse is lives of the families who lived here.
at the end of April, when the
colourful Bloemen Corso P Huys Dever
(flower parade) takes place (see Heereweg 349a. Tel 0252-411430.
p36). A vibrant procession of Open 2–5pm Tue–Sun. Closed
floats passes from Noordwijk public hols. 8 by arrangement.
to Haarlem, where they are ∑ kasteeldever.nl
brightly illuminated at night
and can still be seen the next
“Tahiti” narcissi day. On the two days before the 3 Keukenhof
parade, you can see close-up Map B3. @ 854 (from Leiden Centraal
how the floats are decorated Station), 858 (from Schiphol airport).
in the Hobaho halls in Lisse. Tel 0252-465555. Open late Mar–mid-
The Museum De Zwarte Tulp May: daily. & 8am–6pm. 7 0
(black tulip museum) covers ∑ keukenhof.nl
the history of bulb growing
and illustrates the life cycle of Lying in a wooded park of 32 ha
bulbs. It also touches upon the (79 acres) close to Lisse, the
“Minnow” narcissi “tulipomania” in 1620–37 (see Keukenhof is one of the most
pp34–5), when investors pushed spectacular public gardens in the
up the demand for rare tulip world. It was set up in 1949 as a
bulbs to such an extent that showcase for bulb-growers and
they were worth their weight currently has around 6 million
in gold. bulbs planted in it. Fields are full
of dazzling narcissi, hyacinths and
 Bloemen Corso tulips in bloom from the end of
∑ bloemencorsobollenstreek.nl March to the end of May. You can
E Museum De Zwarte Tulp also see the white blossom of the
Heereweg 219. Tel 0252-417900. Japanese cherry tree in the park
Open Mar–Aug: 11am–5pm; Sep– early in the season and, later,
“Blue Jacket” hyacinths Feb: 1–5pm. Closed public hols. & the bright flowers of the azaleas
7 - ∑ museumdezwartetulp.nl and rhododendrons.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–11


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218  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

4 Street-by-Street: Leiden

Leiden is a thriving university town which dates from . Rijksmuseum
Roman times. The town developed because of its van Oudheden
position on a branch of the Rhine and is still an This squat statue of a
kneeling treasury
important trade centre. Some excellent museums scribe is just one of
chart Leiden’s eventful past, including the Golden the many impressive
Age, when the town was a centre for world trade (see Egyptian artifacts on
display in this fascinating
pp52–3). Rembrandt van Rijn (see pp30–31) was born museum of antiquities.
here in June 1606 – a plaque on the façade of a
Weddesteeg house marks his birthplace. During
term time, the streets of Leiden are busy with
students cycling between lectures or frequenting
the cafés and bookshops.
L A N G E B R U G


S
C
H
O
P A
O
P
L
E
S
N
T
G
E
R
E G
A
. Hortus Botanicus C T
H
The botanical gardens belonging to the
University of Leiden (see p220) were started
in 1590 “for the teaching of every body who
studies in the medicinal sciences”. G E R E C H T
R
H O U T S T R A A T
A
P
0 metres 50 E N
0 yards 50 B R G
U
K L O K S T E E G
N O N N E N S T E E G
Façades
Aristocrats, professors
and textile families all Dutch Classicism can be
contributed to the face seen in the university
of the Leiden canals. buildings on Rapenburg.


Het Gravensteen
Part of the law faculty is now
accommodated in this for mer
count’s prison, built between
the 13th and 17th centuries.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–11



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Date 24th April 2013
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LEIDEN  219


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map B3. * 119,000.
∑ vvvleiden.nl
n Stationsweg 26 (071-
5166000). ( Wed & Sat.
_ Zomerfestival: early Jul; Relief
of Leiden Celebrations: 2 & 3 Oct.
Transport
£ Stationsplein.
Hoogstraat
The Hoogstraat, where two canals meet,
is popular for its floating terraces and
basement restaurants.




D I E F S T E E G B R E E S T R A A T M A A R S M A N S T E E G The stone corn-exchange
Korenbeursbrug
bridge over the Nieuwe
Rijn was given a roof in
1825 in Neo-Classical
style so that the corn
traders would
P I E T E R S K E R K C H O O R S T E E G
be protected from
the rain.



P
I
E
T
E
R
S
K
E
The Stadhuis
R
K
L
H (1596) by Lieven
A
de Key.
O
N
F G
E
B
R U G
Z O N N E V E L D S T R A A T Around the Pieterskerkhof
you will find antique shops,
cafés and restaurants.
Key
H
Recommended route
N
I E W
E
R
U
E
N
S
S
T
T
. Pieterskerk
E
E
E
E
This church contains
G
G
the tombstone
marking the oldest
intact grave in the
Netherlands – that of
the 15th-century
merchant Floris van
Buschuyse and his wife.
218-219_EW_Netherlands.indd 219 16/01/17 12:05 pm

220  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


Exploring Leiden
Leiden is famous for its university, which is the oldest in the
country. It was founded in 1575, one year after the Beggars of
the Sea (see p245) freed the town from a protracted siege by the
Spanish (see p53). As a reward for their endurance, William of
Orange offered the people of Leiden the choice between a
university and the abolition of taxes. The people made a shrewd
choice and the town went on to become a centre of intellectual
pro gress and religious freedom. English Puritan dissidents, victims
of persecution in their homeland, were able to settle here in the
17th century before undertaking their journey to the New World.
One of the 35 almshouses in Leiden
E Museum de Lakenhal to be missed is the large bronze
Oude Singel 28–32. Tel 071-5165360. cooking pot said to have been Clusius, who introduced the
Closed to the public, renovations left by the Spaniards during tulip to Holland (see pp34–5),
underway (scheduled to reopen in the relief of Leiden in 1574. The became the first professor of
2018). & 7 8 - ∑ lakenhal.nl spicy casserole it contained botany at the University of
In the 17th century, the lakenhal is re-created as a stew cooked Leiden. The Hortus Botanicus
(cloth merchants’ hall) was the every year on 3 October to features a reconstruction of his
centre of the Leiden textile commemorate Dutch victory walled garden. Also worth a look
industry. Arent van ’s Gravesande over the Spanish. are the tropical greenhouses, the
designed the building in 1640 in rose garden and the Von Siebold
Dutch Classical style. The munic- Y Hortus Botanicus Leiden Japanese memorial garden.
ipal museum has been here since Rapenburg 73. Tel 071-5275144.
1874. The showpiece of the Open summer: 10am–6pm daily; E Museum Boerhaave
collection, which was rescued winter: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Lange St Agnietenstraat 10. Tel 071-
from the Pieterskerk (St Peter’s Closed 3 Oct, 24 Dec–1 Jan. 8 & 5214224. Closed to the public,
Church) during the religious 7 partial. ∑ hortusleiden.nl renovations underway. 8 & 7 -
disputes of 1566 (see pp56–7) is The botanical garden of Leiden = ∑ museumboerhaave.nl
The Last Judgment (1526–7), a was founded in 1590 as part of Located in the former Caecilia
triptych in Renaissance style by the university. A number of its Hospital in the centre of Leiden,
Lucas van Leyden. Other Leiden trees and shrubs are particularly this is the Netherlands’ National
artists, from Rembrandt old, such as a laburnum dating Museum of the History of
to Theo van Doesburg, from 1601. In 1593, Carolus Science and Medicine. It is
are also featured. named after the great
The museum has Dutch professor of
displays of silver, medicine Herman
glass, tin and tiles Boerhaave (1668–
and explores 1738). The collec-
the history of tion reflects the
Leiden. Not development



















Lucas van Leyden’s triptych of The Last Judgment, in the Museum de Lakenhal
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–11


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LEIDEN  221


of mathematics, astronomy,
physics, chemistry and medicine. The Pilgrim Fathers
Exhibits range from a magnificent In the 17th century, the
15th­century astrolabe and Netherlands was a refuge for
pendulum clocks by Christiaan English Puritans. Minister John
Huygens (1629–95) to surgeons’ Robinson (1575–1625) founded a
equipment of yesteryear and church in Leiden in 1609, where
early electron microscopes. he inspired his congregation with
his dream of the New World. The
E Museum Volkenkunde Pilgrim Fathers set out in 1620 from
Steenstraat 1. Tel 071­5168800. Delfshaven aboard the Speedwell,
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & public but the ship proved to be unsea­
hols. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 3 Oct, worthy. They then crossed the
25 Dec. & 7 - = Atlantic from Plymouth, England,
∑ volkenkunde.nl on the Mayflower, but Robinson
This excellent ethnological stayed behind, too ill to travel. The Mayflower crossing the
museum, founded in 1837, has He died in Leiden in 1625. Atlantic Ocean
collections which feature non­
Western cultures, such as
ethnographic items brought century, stands in the middle of There is a marvellous view of
by the German explorer a shady square that seems Leiden’s historic centre from
Philipp von Siebold from to be from a different age. the gallery.
Japan in the 19th It is worth a visit for its austere
century. The vast interior and the carefully E Rijksmuseum van
collection focuses restored Van Oudheden
on the interaction Hagerbeer Rapenburg 28. Tel 0900­6600600.
between various organ (1639– Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & public
cultures and their 43), one of the world’s hols. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 3 Oct, 25
links with the few meantone­tuned Dec. & 7 8 - = ∑ rmo.nl
Netherlands; organs. The floor of This museum has one of the
hence Indonesia Heraldic lion at De Burcht the nave is covered top seven Egyptian collections
has a consider­ with worn stones, in the world, the centrepiece
able amount of floor space. The which mark the graves of famous of which is the 2,000­year­old
museum covers practically the 17th­century intellectuals such as Taffeh Temple. Other civilizations
whole world, from the Arctic Puritan leader John Robinson, from the Near East and from
to Oceania. physician Hermanus Boerhaave Classical Antiquity are also
and Golden Age artist Jan Steen. represented. The section on
E Naturalis Biodiversity archaeology of the Netherlands
Center + De Burcht gives visitors an idea of what
Darwinweg 2. Tel 071­5687600. Burgsteeg. Open daily. the Low Countries were like
Open 10am–5pm daily. Closed 27 The Burcht is a 12th­century from prehistoric times to the
Apr, 3 Oct, 25 Dec. & 7 8 - = fortress which features a still­ Middle Ages. Mummies,
∑ naturalis.nl intact circular wall and textiles and shoes, musical
Opened in 1998, the national crenellated battlements. At the instruments and fragments of
natural history museum, attracted foot of the 12­m (39­ft) artificial Roman mosaics and frescoes
a record number of visitors. It mound is a wrought­iron gate form just part of the museum’s
provides a truly fascinating insight covered in heraldic symbols. impressive holdings.
into the evolution of the earth and
its inhabitants with displays of
fossils more than a million years
old, and lifelike replicas of animals,
stones and minerals. The star
exhibit is a complete skeleton of a
Tyrannosaurus rex, discovered in
Montana in 2013. Special exhi­
bitions for children are also held.
P Pieterskerk
Pieterskerkhof 1a. Tel 071­5124319.
Open 11am–6pm daily, except when
church is hired out (check website).
Closed 3 Oct. 7 ∑ pieterskerk.com
This impressive Gothic cruciform
church, built mainly in the 15th A drawbridge across the Oude Rijn in Leiden




220-221_EW_Netherlands.indd 221 16/01/17 12:05 pm

222  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

5 Street-by-Street: The Hague

The village of Die Haghe (“the hedge”) grew around
the Binnenhof (inner courtyard), which has been an
important political centre since the 13th century.
The princes of Orange, the upper classes and an
extensive diplomatic corps gave instructions for
palaces and mansion houses to be built, and a stroll
across the Voorhout or along the Hofvijver will still
evoke its aristocratic charm. The Hague today is
represented by the new Spuikwartier (Spui district),
with the city hall by Richard Meier and the Lucent
Danstheater by Rem Koolhaas. To the west, the dunes L A N G E V O O R H O U T
and many parks and woods are still reminiscent of
the country estate it once was.
LANGE VOORHOUT









. Escher in Het Paleis
A permanent exhibition of the graphic
artist Maurits Cornelis Escher can be H O G E N I E U W S T R A A T
visited in the Paleis Lange Voorhout,
where Queen Emma and Queen
Wilhelmina once lived. L A N G E V I J V E R B E R G


Gevangenpoort
The Dutch lion adorns KNEUTERDIJK
the façade of the
Ge vangenpoort
(prison gate), originally
the main gate of the
14th-century castle of
the counts of Holland.
From the 1400s, it was
used as a prison.


H O F W E G




Key
Recommended route


0 metres 50
Galerij Prins Willem V
This was the first public art gallery 0 yards 50
in the Netherlands.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–11



222-223_EW_Netherlands.indd 222 16/01/17 12:05 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE HA GUE  223


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Jantje, a statue based on
a Dutch nursery rhyme, Practical Information
points to the Binnenhof. Road Map B4. * 497,000.
∑ denhaag.com
n Spui 68 (0900-3403505).
( Mon–Fri. _ Scheveningen
Sand Sculpture Festival: May;
Scheveningen Vlaggetjesdag:
end of May/beg of Jun; Parkpop:
D
L Haags Historisch Museum end of Jun; Pasar Malam Besar:
E Featured is the history of The
V mid-May; Prinsjesdag: 3rd
I Hague, from the Middle Ages Tue in Sep; Crossing Borders
O
O to the present day. Festival: mid-Nov.
N
R Transport
U £ Centraal Station (CS); Koningin
T O Julianaplein 10; Hollands Spoor
L A N G E V O O R H O U T
(HS); Stationsplein 25.
L A N G E H O U T
. Mauritshuis
On display here in an exquisite
collection are 17th-century old
S T R A A T
masters, including works by
Rembrandt and Vermeer.
K O R T E V I J V E R B E R G
P L E I N







The Tweede Kamer
The accommodation for the Tweede
Kamer, the Dutch Lower House, was
N E designed by Pi de Bruijn and has been
BINNENHOF G E P O T in use since 1992. The building blends
tastefully with the older buildings
surrounding it. Plenary sessions are held
H O F P L E I N L A N in the Grote Vergaderzaal (great assembly
hall) behind the circular extension.


H O F W E G







“The Hague, you tap it and it
sings” wrote Dutch poet Gerrit
Achterberg in “Passage”. The
elegant covered arcade of shops . Binnenhof
in Neo-Renaissance style on the This ancient structure comprises the parliament and government
Hofweg is a famous feature of buildings and was originally the 13th-century hunting lodge of the
the town centre. counts of Holland.




222-223_EW_Netherlands.indd 223 16/01/17 12:05 pm

224  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring The Hague through the Ridderzaal and
deb ating chambers of the
The Hague has numerous attractions and museums, of which Upper or Lower House.
the Mauritshuis (see pp226–7) and the Gemeentemuseum
(municipal museum) (see p228) are the most famous. There E Museum De
are many bookshops, antique shops and cafés on and around Gevangenpoort
Buitenhof 33. Tel 070-3460861.
the Denneweg, which comes out onto the Lange Voorhout, @ v Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri,
as well as luxury boutiques on the promenade beginning at noon–5pm Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
Paleis Noordeinde. Behind the Mauritskade lies the stately 25 Dec. & 8 obligatory; last guided
late-19th-century Willemspark, which is still almost tour 3:45pm. ∑ gevangenpoort.nl
completely intact, with the Panorama Mesdag (see p228). The prison-gate museum, in
a 14th-century gatehouse,
You can admire the peaceful Japanese garden in Park contains an old prison still
Clingendael (see p228). The old fishing village of largely in its original state.
Scheveningen has expanded to become a lively seaside Cornelis de Witt was kept here
resort, but the dunes all around still offer peace and quiet. on suspicion of conspiracy
against Prince Maurice. In 1672,
as he and his brother Johan left
P Binnenhof met Ridderzaal Spanish rule in 1581 with the the prison, they were murdered
Binnenhof. Tel 070-7570200. @ v Plakkaat van Verlatinge (“Decree by a provok ed mob. The museum
Open for guided tours only. Closed of Abandonment”); they held has a unique collec tion of
Sun, public hols, 3rd Tue in Sep. & a huge feast for William of horrific tort ure instruments. It
8 Booking obligatory (via website). Orange in the Ridderzaal. shares an entrance with Galerij
∑prodemos.nl The Binnenhof was one Prins Willem V.
The historic Binnenhof is a of the most important
series of buildings erected European centres of E Galerij Prins Willem V
around the hunting lodge of diplomacy in the Buitenhof 33. Tel 070-3023456. @
the counts of Holland. In 1247, Golden Age. The v Open noon–5pm Tue–Sun.
William II was proclaimed Holy magnifice ntly Closed 1 Jan, 5 & 25 Dec. &
Roman Emperor; he later had ornate meeting ∑ galerijprinswillemv.nl
the Gothic Ridderzaal (Hall hall dates from Prince William V was an
of the Knights) built as a this period and is enthusiastic collector of
banqueting hall. The Binnenhof where the Upper 17th-century art. In 1774, his
has since then been the House currently private collection was put
residence of stadholders, sits. The Lower Porcelain from the Museum on show for the public in
princes and governments. House met in Bredius collection this former inn, which the
The court of Holland has William V’s old prince had converted into
administered justice since 1511 ballroom until 1992, when it his office. The treasures in this
in the Rolzaal (Roll Court). The was moved to a new location. gallery include paintings by
northern provinces of the Tours of the building begin in Rembrandt, Jan Steen and
Netherlands broke free from the medieval cellars and pass Paulus Potter (1625–54).

E Museum Bredius
Lange Vijverberg 14. Tel 070-362
0729. @ v Open 11am–5pm
Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
& ∑ museumbredius.nl
Art historian and art collector
Abraham Bredius was also
director of the Mauritshuis
(see pp226–7) from 1895 to
1922. On his death in 1946
he bequeathed his collection
of 17th- and 18th-century
art, including paintings by
Rembrandt and Jan Steen,
to the city of The Hague. The
elegant 18th-century mansion
on the north side of the
Hofvijver which houses the
museum also has fine antique
furniture and porcelain and
Landscape by Fading Light by Albert Cuyp (Museum Bredius) beautifully engraved silver.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp398 and pp410–11


224-225_EW_Netherlands.indd 224 16/01/17 11:54 am

THE HA GUE  225


P Vredespaleis
Carnegieplein 2. @ 22 and 24.
v 17. Tel 070-3024242. Open Tue–
Sun (Visitor’s Centre). 8 Sat–Sun.
Closed public hols and when
court is in session. & 7 ^
∑ vredespaleis.nl
In 1899, The Hague hosted the
first international peace
conference. Contributions from
the court’s members decorate
the interior of the mock-Gothic
Vredespaleis (peace palace),
designed by the French architect
Louis Cordonnier and completed
The Classical-style Paleis Noordeinde, where King Willem-Alexander has his offices in 1913. The International Court
of the United Nations, formed
E Escher in Het Paleis P Paleis Noordeinde in 1946, is based here.
Lange Voorhout 74. Tel 070-427 7730. Noordeinde. Open only the Paleistuin
@ v Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. (palace garden) is open to the public. P Passage
Closed 1 Jan, 3rd Tue in Sep, 25 Dec. In 1640, Stadholder Frederik Between the Spuistraat, Hofweg
& ∑ escherinhetpaleis.nl Hendrik had his mother’s and Buitenhof. @ v
A large proportion of MC Escher’s house converted into a grand A visit to The Hague would not
(1898–1972) work is displayed palace built in the Dutch be complete without a stroll
in the Paleis Lange Voorhout, classical style. The pro perty along the elegant Passage, the
including well-known works of the Princes of Orange since only covered arcade remaining
such as Day and Night, Rising and William V (1748–1806), this from the 19th century in the
Falling and Belvédère. In addition to is the building where the Netherlands. Unusual specialist
gra phic works, there are sketches, present King of the Netherlands, shops can be found here, such
personal documents and Willem-Alexander, has his as the umbrella and fountain
photographs. The museum also offices, and also where he pen shop. The arcade wing that
features the Escher Experience, a leaves from for the state leads to the Hofweg was added
virtual journey through his world. opening of parliament. in 1928–9.

Den Haag City Centre
Madurodam
1 Het Paleis SCHEVENINGEN
2 Museum De Gevangenpoort
3 Galerij Prins Willem V Het Paleis
4 Museum Bredius
KORTE
LANGE VOORHOUT
5 Ridderzaal LANGE VOORHOUT VOORHOUT Park Clingendael
6 Passage
7 Mauritshuis BURGSTRAAT
SCHOUW-
Paleis Noordeinde & HOGE NIEUWSTRAAT CASUARISTRAAT
Panorama Mesdag
Museum
Bredius LANGE VIJVERBERG KORTE VIJVERBERG L ANG E H OUT ST R AAT BLEIJENBURG
Vredespaleis KNEUTERDIJK Mauritshuis HERENSTR.
Gemeentemuseum PLAATS Hofvijver PLEIN KORTE POTEN Centraal Station
MOLENSTRAAT Museum De Ridderzaal
Omniversum 500m (550 yards)
Gevangenpoort
Binnenhof
LANGE POTEN
Galerij Prins Parliament HOUTSTRAAT
Willem V
KORTE
GRAVENSTR. Passage H O F W E G KALVERMARKT
OUDE MOLSTRAAT
HOOGSTRAAT
P R I N S E S T R A A T
KERKPLEIN Rotunda S P UIS T R AAT SPUI DELFT,
T O R E N S T R A A T
RIVIER VISMARKT Oude
Grote Kerk Stadhuis VENESTRAAT ROTTERDAM
LAAN VLAMINGSTR. G R O T E M A R K T S T R A A T 0 metres 250 250
0 yards
VENESTRAAT
GROTE
MARKT Key
JAN HENDRIK S TRAAT
Street-by-street map (pp222–3)
For map symbols see back flap
224-225_EW_Netherlands.indd 225 16/01/17 11:54 am

226  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


Mauritshuis
After he was recalled as captain general of
Brazil, Johan Maurits of Nassau commissioned
this house. It was completed in 1644 by Pieter
Post in the North Dutch Classical style with
influences from the Italian Renaissance and
has a marvellous view of the Hofvijver.
After the death of Maurits in 1679, the house
passed into state hands and, in 1822, became
the home of the royal painting collection.
Though the collection is not large, it contains . The Anatomy Lesson of
almost exclusively superior works by old Dr Nicolaes Tulp (1632)
Rembrandt’s painting of doctors
masters. This, combined with the exquisite examining a corpse reflects the
presentation in elegant period rooms, makes burgeoning contemporary interest
the Mauritshuis one of the finest galleries in in anatomy and science.
the Netherlands.

Museum Guide
The three floors of this museum are hung with paintings from Ground floor
top to bottom. To feature all aspects of the collection, the
exhibits are constantly changing. The masterpieces are always
on view, although not always hanging in the same location.
Present ation is pleasantly haphazard, but all the paintings
are label led with the artist, title and year. A new
exhibition wing has been added to the museum,
connected to the historic building by an
underground foyer, which also houses a
brasserie and a well-stocked shop.










Basement








Vase with Flowers (1618)
Ambrosius Bosschaert captured the
beauty of summer flowers but added
the flies to remind us of our mortality.

Bordello Scene
(1658) This typical 17th-century
genre painting of a brothel
scene by Frans van Mieris
de Oude (1635–81) has an Main
unmistakable erotic undertone. staircase
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–11


226-227_EW_Netherlands.indd 226 16/01/17 11:54 am

THE HA GUE  227


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Plein 29, The Hague.
Tel 070-3023456.
∑ mauritshuis.nl
Open 1–6pm Mon, 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun (to 8pm Thu). Closed
1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 8 -=
Transport
From Den Haag CS: @ 22.
v 2, 3, 4, 6, 15. From Den
Haag HS: @ 18. v 1.

First floor The Goldfinch (1654)
This small, elegant painting
is by Carel Fabritius (1622–54),
a pupil of Rembrandt.

The Way You Hear It Is
the Way You Sing It (1663)
This moralistic genre
painting by Jan Steen (see
p127) probably shows
what is meant by a
“huishouden van Jan
Steen” – keeping one’s
house like a pigsty.



. The Louse Hunt (1653)
Gerard ter Borch’s painting
depicts a domestic tableau
and reflects the Dutch
preoccupation with order
and cleanliness during the
17th century.














Key to Floorplan
Portrait gallery
. Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665) 15th- and early 16th-century works
At the mid-point of his career, 18th-century Flemish paintings
Johannes Vermeer painted this Golden room
haunting portrait of a girl wearing a
pearl earring. Stories about the true 17th-century Dutch paintings
origins of the girl abound. Non-exhibition space




226-227_EW_Netherlands.indd 227 16/01/17 11:54 am

228  WESTERN NE THERLANDS





















The Hague’s municipal museum, one of HP Berlage’s most handsome designs
E Panorama Mesdag last piece of work to be carried Dutch and international
Zeestraat 65. @ 22, 24. v 17. out by HP Berlage, founder of the photography.
Tel 070-3106665. Open 10am–5pm Amsterdam School. The museum
Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun & public was completed in 1935, one year Omniversum
hols. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & after his death, and now contains President Kennedylaan 5.
8 on request. ∑ panorama- the largest collection of paintings @ 24. v 17. Tel 0900-6664837.
mesdag.com by Mondriaan in the world, with Open daily, first show at 11am.
Panorama Mesdag is one of the works from all his various periods. & 7 - ∑ omniversum.nl
best remaining panoramic One of the high points of the The Omniversum (next to the
paintings of the 19th century. The collection is Victory Boogie Gemeentemuseum) is a cross
circular canvas, with a circum- Woogie (1943). Other works between a planetarium and a
ference of 120 m (395 ft), depicts exhibited here include paintings high-tech cinema. It puts on a
the old fishing village of by JH Weissenbruch and brothers programme of films of space flights,
Scheveningen. It is a breathtaking Maris and Josef Israëls, all of volcanic eruptions and ocean life.
moment when, after climbing whom were representatives of
the creaking stairs leading the Haag School, which was Y Park Clingendael
up to the panorama, you profoundly inspired by Entrance from Alkemadelaan or
suddenly emerge into the coastal landscape. the Ruychrocklaan. @ 18. Park
daylight, to be surr- The main feature of Clingendael: Open sunrise–sunset
ounded by the the applied art daily. Japanese Garden: Open end
dunes and the sea. section is the antique Apr–mid-Jun & Oct: sunrise–sunset
The illusion is strength- Delftware and oriental daily. -
ened by genuine sand porcelain. The “Wonder This country estate already existed
and pieces of wreckage Victory Boogie kamers” or “Wonder in the 16th century, when it had a
laid at the foot of the Woogie Rooms” are housed in large, formal French-style garden.
painting. The painting was the basement which is a In 1830 it was converted into a
done in 1881 by members of the labyrinth of quirky displays, with pretty landscaped park. It contains
Haag School, led by HW Mesdag teenagers as the target audience. a Dutch garden, a rose garden,
(1831–1915) and his wife Sientje Part of the Gemeente-museum, grazing land for animals, rhodo-
(1834–1909). George Hendrik with its entrance next door, is dendron woods and an ancient
Breitner (1857–1923) painted the the Fotomuseum, (www. beech tree.
cavalrymen on the sand. fotomuseumdenhaag.nl) which Overgrown bunkers in the
stages temporary exhibitions of wood are a sombre reminder of
E Gemeentemuseum Den
Haag en Fotomuseum
Stadhouderslaan 41. @ 24.
Gemeentemuseum: Tel 070-3381111.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. Closed
1 Jan, 25 Dec. Fotomuseum: Tel 070-
3381144. Open noon–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & ^ 7 -
= ∑gemeentemuseum.nl
The Gemeentemuseum
(municipal museum) was the The picturesque Japanese Garden in Park Clingendael
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–11


228-229_EW_Netherlands.indd 228 16/01/17 12:05 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.4)
Date 25th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE HA GUE  229


World War II, when the Netherlands Kurhaus is Sea Life Scheveningen,
was occupied and the most senior where you can look through trans-
German authorities took up quar- parent tunnels at stingrays, sharks
ters in Huis Clingendael. At the and many other sea crea tures.
centre of the park lies the famous Muzee Scheveningen is devoted
Japanese Garden, which was laid to the history of the village and
out in 1903 on the instructions of the spa. Tours of Scheveningen
Baroness Marguérite Mary after a lighthouse can also be booked.
trip to Japan. The tea house and Designed by Wim Quist,
all the stones and ornaments in Museum Beelden aan Zee
the garden were brought over (seaside sculpture museum)
from Japan by boat at the time. can be found on the boulevard,
half-hidden by a sand dune.
 Madurodam The model city of Madurodam Contemporary sculptures on
George Maduroplein 1. @ 22. v 9. the theme of the human figure
Tel 070-4162400. Open Jan–Mar & are shown in the light rooms,
Nov–Dec: 11am–5pm; Apr–Aug: 6 Scheveningen on the terraces and in the garden.
9am–8pm; Sep–Oct: 9am–7pm; Although the seaside resort
24–31 Dec: 10am–7pm. & 7 0 Road Map B4. * 52,000. @ 22. has all but swallowed up the
∑ madurodam.nl v 1. n Gevers Deynootweg 990-58
(0900-3403505). ( Thu. original fishing village, there is
Madurodam depicts the still a harbour and a large fish
Netherlands in miniature – it This pleasant seaside resort is market. Fishing boat trips can
consists of replicas of historical just 15 minutes by tram from be booked on the southern side
buildings such as the Binnenhof the centre of The Hague. Like so of the harbour – a fun outing
in The Hague (see p224), canal- many of the North Sea beach for the afternoon.
side houses in Amsterdam and resorts, Scheveningen had its
the Euromast tower in Rotterdam heyday in the 19th century. O Sea Life Scheveningen
(see p236), built to a scale of 1:25. Nowadays it is a mixture of Strandweg 13. Tel 070-3542100.
Other models include Schiphol faded charm and modern Open 10am–6pm daily (to 8pm Jul
Airport, windmills, polders, bulb garishness, though it remains a & Aug). Closed 25 Dec. & 7 -
fields and some examples of the popular holiday resort because ∑ sealife.nl
country’s mod ern architecture. At of its long sandy beach and the E Muzee Scheveningen
night, the streets and buildings Pier, which, after years of Neptunusstraat 92. Tel 070-3500830.
are lit up by 50,000 tiny lamps. neglect, has been renovated and Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–
Madurodam was opened in reopened in 2015. There are many 5pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
1952 by Queen Juliana. JML restaurants serving seafood. 25 Dec. & - = ∑ muzee.nl
Maduro designed the town in The impressive Kurhaus, E Museum Beelden aan Zee
memory of his son George, who designed in the Empire style and Harteveltstraat 1. Tel 070-3585857.
died at Dachau concentration now a luxurious hotel, was built in Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
camp in 1945. Profits go to 1885, when Scheveningen was still Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & -
children’s charities. a major spa town. Not far from the = ∑ beeldenaanzee.nl























Thsuki-no-hikari (Light of the Moon) by Igor Mitoraj in the dunes of the Museum Beelden aan Zee




228-229_EW_Netherlands.indd 229 16/01/17 12:05 pm

230  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

7 Street-by-Street: Delft

Delft dates back to 1075, its prosperity based on the
weaving and brewing industries. In October 1654, however,
an enormous explosion at the national arsenal destroyed
much of the medieval town. The centre was rebuilt at the
end of the 17th century and has remained relatively
unchanged since then – houses in Gothic and Renaissance
styles still stand along the tree-lined canals. Town life is
concentrated on the Markt, which has the town hall at one
end and the Nieuwe Kerk at the other. Visitors can dip into
the scores of shops selling expensive, hand-painted
Delftware or take a tour of local factories, the shops . Stedelijk Museum
Het Prinsenhof
of which are often reasonably priced. William of Orange was killed
on this staircase in 1584, the
bullet holes still visible.
S C H O O L S T R A A T









S T A G A T H A P L E I N H P P P A P E N
I
O
S
T
L Y
. Oude Kerk O T R
The 13th-century Oude U U A
S
Kerk contains the D B A T
graves of prominent E U U

citizens such as that D R
of the inventor of the E T C A M E R E T T E N
L
microscope, Antonie F
T
van Leeuwenhoek.
The Oude Delft is lined N I E U W S T R A A T
with canalside houses in
Renaissance style.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
B O T E R B R U G W I J N A
H
O
E
U
D
E
E V N
D
P E P E R S T R A A T
L
F
T
Sint-Hippolytuskapel
This austere red-brick
chapel (1396) was used
as an arsenal during the Key
Reformation (see pp56–7). Recommended route
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–11
230-231_EW_Netherlands.indd 230 16/01/17 11:54 am

DELFT  231


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map B4. * 95,000.
∑ delft.nl
n Hippolytusbuurt 4. ( Tue,
Thu, Sat. _ Mooi Weer Spelen
(street theatre): mid-Jun; Delft
Chamber Music Festival: early Aug.
Transport
£ Stationsplein.
View of Delft (c.1660)
Johannes Vermeer’s painting captures Delft on a cloudy
summer afternoon. The original tower of the Nieuwe
Kerk can be seen in the distance.

C H O O R S T R A A T The church was built in several
. Nieuwe Kerk
phases spread over many
years. This statue of William
of Orange stands in the
middle of his opulent
mausoleum.


V R O U W J U T T E N L A N D
D E V L O U W
P A
P
V O L D E R S G R A C H T T R .
E
N
S
T R A S
K E R K
A T
C A M E R E T T E N
M A R K T





O U D E L A N G E N D I J K
W
I N A V
J
H
E
N

Koornbeurs (1650)
P E P E R S T R A A T The façade of the
old meat hall is
decorated with Stadhuis (1618)
animal heads. After The Renaissance-style town hall was
1871, the building designed by Hendrick de Keyser.
was used as a The building is erected around
corn exchange. a 13th-century Gothic tower.




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232  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring Delft

Attractive Delft is world-famous for its blue-and-white pottery
and is renowned in Holland as being the resting place of
William of Orange (1533–84), the “father of the Netherlands”.
William led the resistance against Spanish rule in the 80 Years
War (see p53) from his Delft headquarters; his victory meant
religious freedom and independence for the Dutch. Delft was
the Republic’s main arsenal in the 17th century; an explosion of
gunpowder destroyed a large part of the town in 1654. Artist
Johannes Vermeer (1632–75) was born and lived in Delft.

R Oude Kerk dates from the 14th century.
Heilige Geestkerkhof 25. Tel 015- The Gothic north transept
2123015. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm was added in the early 16th The impressive Renaissance-style pulpit
Mon–Sat; Nov–Jan: 11am–4pm century by architect Anthonis (1548) in the Oude Kerk
Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat; Feb & Keldermans. Inside, the most
Mar: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat. & 7 striking feature is the wooden R Nieuwe Kerk
∑ oudeennieuwekerkdelft.nl pulpit with canopy. The floor is Markt 80. Tel 015-2123025. Open Apr–
The original 13th-century studded with 17th-century Oct: 9am–6pm Mon–Sat; Nov–Jan:
church on this site has been gravestones, many beautifully 11am–4pm Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat;
extended many times. The decorated, including those for Feb & Mar: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat. &
beautifully carved clock tower, Johannes Vermeer and admiral 7 ∑ oudeennieuwekerkdelft.nl
with its eye-catching steeple, Piet Hein (1577–1629). The Nieuwe Kerk was built
between 1383 and 1510 but
needed large-scale restoration
after the fire of 1536 and the
massive explosion of 1654 in the
arsenal. In 1872, PJH Cuypers (see
p375) added the 100-m (328-ft)
tower to the Gothic façade. Inside,
the most noticeable feature is
William of Orange’s imposing
mausoleum, designed in 1614 by
Hendrick de Keyser. In the middle
stands a statue of William, imp-
ressive in his battledress. Not far
from him is the lonely figure of
his dog, which died a few days
after his master. The tombs of the
royal family lie in the crypt. The
church is being restored, so parts
of it may not be accessible.
E Stedelijk Museum
Het Prinsenhof
St-Agathaplein 1. Tel 015-2602358.
Open 11am–5pm daily & public hols.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & =
∑ prinsenhof-delft.nl
This peaceful former convent
was the scene of William of
Orange’s assassination. It now
houses Delft’s history museum,
with pottery, tapestries and
portraits of royalty. In 1572, during
the uprising against the Spanish,
William commandeered the
convent as his headquarters. In
1584, a fanatical Catholic, Balthasar
Geraerts, shot and killed him on
The Nieuwe Kerk overlooking Delft market the instructions of Philip II of Spain.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–11


232-233_EW_Netherlands.indd 232 16/01/17 12:05 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.4)
Date 25th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

DELFT  233


Delftware
Delftware (see pp32–3) stems from majolica,
introduced to the Netherlands in the 16th
century by Italian immigrants who had settled
around Delft and Haarlem and begun producing
wall tiles with Dutch designs, such as birds and
flowers. By the next century, however, Dutch
traders had started to deal in delicate Chinese
porcelain; this eventually led to the collapse
of the market for the less refined Dutch
earthenware. Towards 1650, though, the
Chinese example was adopted in the
Netherlands and craftsmen designed plates,
vases and bowls with pictures of Dutch
landscapes, biblical tableaux and scenes
from everyday life. De Porceleyne
Fles factory, which dates from 1652, is one
of the several Delftware potteries open to
the public for tours. 17th-century hand-painted Delft tiles

E Vermeer Centrum Delft 8 Maassluis 9 Schiedam
Voldersgracht 21. Tel 015-2138588. Road Map: B4. * 31,600. £ Road Map: B4. * 75,000. £
Open 10am–5pm daily. Closed 25 Dec. n Heldringstraat 101 (010-5911440). n Buitenhavenweg 9 (010-4733000).
& 8 Fri (Dutch) & Sun (English). 7 ( Tue, Fri. ∑ ervaarmaassluis.nl ( Tue am, Fri. ∑ sdam.nl
0 = ∑vermeerdelft.nl
The Vermeer Centrum The settlement of Maassluis Schiedam was granted its city
celebrates the work of one of grew up around the locks, charter in 1275 and soon
Delft's most enigmatic artists, which date from 1367; the afterwards expanded into a
Johannes Vermeer (1632–75). herring trade brought centre for trade and fishing.
The space, dedicated entirely prosperity to the town. It became the centre of the
to the life of the artist, has a The historic town centre is genever (Dutch gin) industry.
series of beautifully designed adorned with 17th-century The production of genever is
displays including a life-size buildings, such as the Grote still important to the town, as
copy of his famous masterpiece, Kerk, with its famous organ, evidenced by the five tallest
The Girl with a Pearl Earring and the Stadhuis, from 1650. windmills in the world and the
(1665–67). On the upper floor, The town’s fine steam tug still old warehouses and distilleries.
visitors can learn about his goes out to sea. Many of Dutch In the bar of the Jenever
painting techniques, particularly writer Maarten ’t Hart’s novels Museum (national genever
his use of perspective, colour are set in the Maassluis of museum), you can familiarize
and light. his youth. yourself with the enormous
range of Dutch genevers
and liqueurs.
The Stedelijk Museum
(municipal museum), with
exhibits of contemporary art
and on modern history, is in the
former St-Jacobs Gasthuis. Its
main attraction is the collection
of artwork by the group known
as COBRA (consisting of painters
from COpenhagen, BRussels
and Amsterdam).
E Jenever Museum
Lange Haven 74. Tel 010-2469676.
Open noon–5pm Tue–Sun & public
hols. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 & 26
Dec. 7 ∑ jenevermuseum.nl
E Stedelijk Museum
Hoogstraat 112. Tel 010-2463666.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. 7 - =
Genever and corn brandy, products of the genever capital of Schiedam ∑ stedelijkmuseumschiedam.nl




232-233_EW_Netherlands.indd 233 16/01/17 12:05 pm

234  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

0 Street-by-Street: Rotterdam

This route takes you through the area to . Schielandhuis
the south of the town centre, which was Built between 1662
and 1665, the
devastated by heavy bombing in May Schielandhuis is one of
1940. On your way you will see the Witte the few surviving
Huis (White House), one of the few buildings from the
buildings spared by the bombs. Further 17th century.
on you will pass by some unusual
modern architecture, such as the cube-
shaped apartments, “Het Potlood” (“the
pencil”), and the maritime museum,
devoted to the history of shipping. In
front of this museum is a monument
by Ossip Zadkine, which is one of the
symbols of Rotterdam. The undeveloped
area around Station Blaak was completely
built up before the bombing. B L A A K













N
E
V
A
H
. De Verwoeste Stad A S
The statue De Verwoeste Stad (The G L
Devastated City) by Ossip Zadkine,
located in front of the maritime
museum, commemorates the
bombing of May 1940. It is
considered one of the most
famous statues in the country.







B O O M P J E S





De Buffel
The old armoured vessel De Buffel, Key
now open for visitors, was for many
years a training ship. Recommended route
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–411


234-235_EW_Netherlands.indd 234 16/01/17 12:05 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.7)
Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

RO T TERD A M  235

Erasmusbrug
(Erasmus Bridge) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The glittering
Erasmusbrug is now Practical Information
one of the symbols Road Map B4. * 598,500.
∑ rotterdam.info
of Rotterdam.
n Coolsingel 195–7 (010-7900
185). ( Tue–Sun. _ Film
festival: Jan; ROBIN Rotterdam
Unlimited (carnival): Apr;
Metropolis (pop concerts): Jul;
Zomercarnaval: Jul;
Wereldhavendagen: Sep.
Transport
0 metres 150 Station Blaak is an £ Stationsplein.
0 yards 150 unusual metro and railway @ Stationsplein.
station, designed by
architect HCH Reijnders.
Het Potlood (the pencil), an
unusually shaped apartment
block near Station Blaak, was
designed by P Blom.










. Kubus-Paalwoningen
A bizarre creation (1978–84) by
architect P Blom, the cube-
shaped apartments are among
the most striking buildings of
modern Rotterdam.









V E R L E N G D E W I L L E M S B R U G






B O O M P J E S

Willemswerf
Willemswerf is one of Witte Huis (White House)
Rotterdam’s highest and most This is one of the few buildings
impressive office blocks. The to survive the World War II
building, which is completely bombing raids. For a long time,
white, was completed in the 45-m (148-ft) building was
1989 and is a design by one of the tallest office blocks
architect WG Quist. in Europe.




234-235_EW_Netherlands.indd 235 16/01/17 12:05 pm

236  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring Rotterdam

Rotterdam is not only a symbol of post-war economic
recovery – it has more to offer than endless stretches of
thriving docklands and industrial areas. Rotterdam has
increasingly become one of the most important cultural
centres of the Netherlands. Although the city was a wasteland
immediately after World War II, it quickly recovered and
now boasts one of the country’s largest universities, a park
containing a number of interesting museums and a large zoo.

popular Oceanium is a theme
park showcasing sea creatures,
including sharks.
P Delfshaven
Rotterdam City Tourist Information, Canalside houses in a peaceful corner
Coolsingel 195–7 Tel 010-7900185 . q of Delfshaven
Delfshaven, which is outside the
town centre and is mainly famous is the tallest building in the
for being the birthplace of naval town. Before its construction
hero Piet Hein, looks very different began, in 1960, the mayor
from the rest of Rotterdam. This at the time, Van Walsum,
oasis of both history and culture complained that there was
within the modern city consists only enough money to build a
of a few streets with historic 50 m (165 ft) tower. This caused
buildings and a harbour with an uproar, because the mast
A gorilla sitting with her young at old sailing boats. The former was meant to be higher than
Diergaarde Blijdorp warehouses are now shops the Utrecht Domtoren
selling antiques, paintings and (cathedral tower), which was,
O Blijdorp antiquarian books. There are also at 112 m (367 ft), the highest
Blijdorplaan 8. @ 40, 44. Tel 0900- museums and restaurants. building in the country. That
1857. Open 9am–6pm daily. &  It was from Delfshaven that same evening, the mayor was
h 7 0 = ∑ rotterdamzoo.nl the Dutch Pilgrim Fathers left called by rich Rotterdam port
Rotterdam Zoo, often called for America in 1620. barons wanting to contribute
Diergaarde Blijdorp, is in many money to the construction of
ways a unique zoo. Its predec- J Euromast the building. These donations
essor, De Rotterdamsche Parkhaven 20. q Dijkzicht. in part enabled the tower to
Diergaarde (Rotterdam zoo), Tel 010-4364811. Open Apr–Sep: reach 110 m (361 ft). A space
was built in 1857 in the town 9:30am–10pm daily; Oct–Mar: tower was later added to the
centre. In 1937, the zoo was 10am–10pm daily. & h 0 top of the building for the
moved to Blijdorp polder, ∑ euromast.nl Communicatie-’70 show in
outside the centre. The architect One of the most famous 1970, bringing the tower to a
Van Ravesteyn designed the symbols of Rotterdam, Euromast total height of 185 m (607 ft).
new zoo and Blijdorp became
one of the first zoos to be
designed by one architect.
Blijdorp is also one of the few
European zoos to have its own
research department. It plays
an important part in breeding
programmes for rare and
endangered species, such as
the black-footed penguin.
For the last few years,
attempts have been made to
convert Blijdorp to the type of
zoo which tries to present the
animals in the most natural
habitat possible. Another
addition at the zoo is the gorilla
island. The huge, extremely The Rotterdam Beurstraverse, or “Koopgoot”, a bustling shopping mall
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–11


236-237_EW_Netherlands.indd 236 16/01/17 11:54 am

RO T TERD A M  237


become familiar with art and
express themselves via poetry,
theatre and visual arts.
E Het Nieuwe Instituut
Museumpark 25. Tel 010-4401200.
v 4, 5. @ 32. q Eendrachtsplein.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
11am–5pm Sun & public hols.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. &
0 = ∑ hetnieuweinstituut.nl
After being bombed in 1940 and
then ravaged by fire, the old city
centre was a wasteland. Thanks
to large-scale rebuilding after the
war, Rotterdam now has many fine
Het N
Het N
Het Nieuwe Instituutieuwe Instituutieuwe Instituut
Peter Struycken’s masterpiece of light effects under the Het Nieuwe Instituut examples of modern architecture.
This includes famous structures
E Kunsthal Designed by the avant-garde such as the paalwoningen (cube-
Westzeedijk 341, Museumpark. architects OMA, the building shaped apartments), and the
v 8, 20. Tel 010-4400301. Open Tue– has ramps instead of stairs. spectacular developments along
Sun. Closed Mon, 27 Jan, 30 Apr, 25 the Kop van Zuid across the
Dec. & h 0 ∑ kunsthal.nl E Kinderkunsthal Nieuwe Maas. Het Nieuwe
The Kunsthal, with its austere Villa Zebra Instituut is the result of a merger
style, is used for temporary exhi- Stieltjesstraat 21. Tel 010-2411717. between the national architectural
bi tions, putting up around 25 v 20, 23, 25. @ 48. q D. archives, the Premsela Institute
per year, with “high art” and pop Open noon–5pm Wed, Fri–Sun; for Design and Fashion and
culture going cheek by jowl. It Tue–Sun summer hols. Closed 1 Jan, Virtueel Platform (which aims to
offers a journey through modern 27 Apr, 25, 26 & 31 Dec. & h 0 promote digital culture). The
art, fashion, photography and ∑ villazebra.nl Instituut hosts regular exhibitions
design, featuring artists from all This is an arts centre specifically examining the influence of new
around the world. for children, where they can technologies on art and design.
Rotterdam City Centre Blijdorp
Airport
1 Kunsthal 6 km (4 miles) Stadhuis MEENT
2 Euromast St Laurens- MARINIERSWEG
kerk
3 Het Nieuwe Instituut COOLSINGEL RODEZAND HOOGSTR.
4 Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen AERT VAN NESSTR. Beurs
(see pp238–9) Blaak Oude-
haven
WESTEWAGENSTR.
Centraal Station BLAAK VERLENGDE
500m (550 yards) KA R EL DOORMAN Witte Huis WILLEMSBRUG
Churchill-
plein
-STRAAT
OUDE BINNENWEG WESTBLAAK WIJNHAVEN Willemswerf
Eendrachts- GLASHAVEN
plein
0 metres 250 Het Nieuwe SCHIEDAMSEDIJK Leuvehaven BOOMPJES
Instituut
ROCHUSSENSTR. Museum WESTERSINGE L S CHIED SCHIEDAMSE VEST
0 yards 250 MUSEUMPARK EENDRACHTSSTRAAT A MSESINGEL TERWENAKKER
Boijmans
EENDRACHTSWEG
Dijkzigt van Beuningen VASTELAND Leuvehaven
Museumpark
Historisch Museum GEDEMPTE
de Dubbelde Kunsthal ZALMHAVEN
Palmboom Erasmus
WESTERSTRA A T
University HOUTLAAN Kinderkunsthal
WESTZEEDIJK WILLEMS- KADE Villa Zebra
DROOGLEEVER KIEVITSLAAN PARKLAAN
FORTUYN- PARKLAAN
PLEIN VEERHAVEN
Nieuwe Maas
Park CALANDSTRAAT
DELFSHAVEN WESTERLAA N WESTERKADE
Euromast Key
HEUVELLA A N Street-by-street map (pp234–5)
PARKKADE
PARKHAVEN
Parkhaven
For map symbols see back flap
236-237_EW_Netherlands.indd 237 16/01/17 11:54 am

238  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen

The museum is named after two art experts, FJO Boijmans and
DG van Beuningen, who presented their own private collections
to the town. The museum thus ended up with one of the finest
collections in the Netherlands. Although it is particularly renowned
for its unique collection of old masters, the museum also represents
all aspects of art and design, from medieval works by Jan van Eyck
to imaginative exhibitions of contemporary artists’ work.



Three Marys at
the Tomb
(1425–35) Brothers
Jan and Hubert Van
Eyck collaborated on
this colourful work
depicting the tomb
of the resurrected
Christ. Acquired with
the collection of Ticket desk
D. G. van Beuningen
in 1958.


Library
Ground floor









Courtyard

Exhibition
entrance
Nautilus Cup
(c.1590) The god
Neptune sits on
top of this beautiful
piece from the
Dutch Renaissance.




Key to Floorplan
Entrance to
15th–17th centuries temporary
Surrealists exhibitions
Print collection
Applied art and design
Temporary exhibitions Entrance to
Non-exhibition space permanent exhibitions
18th century–1945 and Surrealists

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–11


238-239_EW_Netherlands.indd 238 16/01/17 11:54 am

RO T TERD A M  239


. The Pedlar VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(c.1500)
Hieronymous Practical Information
Bosch’s painting Museumpark 18–20, Rotterdam.
shows mankind Tel 010-4419400.
trying to avoid the ∑ boijmans.nl
First hazards of life.
floor Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun &
public hols. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec. & ^ 7 0 =
Transport
£ Centraal Station. @ 32.
v 7. q Eendrachtsplein.




La Petite Danseuse
(1880–81) Impressionist
Stairs Edgar Degas made several
studies in bronze of this
young Belgian dancer.









Auditorium








Restaurant . Titus at his Desk
(1655) Rembrandt portrayed his sickly
son in an introspective mood, bathed
in a tender light that heightens the
pallor of his brooding features. Titus
was to die aged 27.







Basement


. The Tower of Babel
(c.1568) Pieter Brueghel took
an Old Testament theme and
painted a ten-storey structure
swarming with people.




238-239_EW_Netherlands.indd 239 14/03/2017 15:04

240  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


Rotterdam, City of Water

One of Rotterdam’s biggest and busiest attractions
is its port, one of the largest ports in the world.
Various operators organize daily tours around the
port area, where you will see container ports,
shipyards and dry docks. The sheer scale of the port
and related industrial areas, which have a turnover
of billions of euros, is quite staggering. Europe’s
largest container port, the Europoort alone Rotterdam
stretches for 40 km (25 miles) along the river banks. The port sees approximately 30,000
vessels docking each year. Germany’s
Ruhr district is the main destination for
the transported goods.
The Port of Rotterdam
The port of Rotterdam, of which only a fraction is shown by this map, stretches
from the town centre to the North Sea coast and is divided into nine areas.
These are, from east to west, the Stadhavens, the Vierhavens, Merwehaven, Old Delfshaven
Waalhaven, Eemhaven, Vondelingenplat, Botlek, Europoort and the Maasvlakte.
The port is still expanding and will soon run out of available space. Land
reclamation from the North Sea is considered the most appropriate solution.



Vlaardingen
Schiedam
Delfshaven

A4
Nieuwe Maas
Merwehaven
Wilhelminahaven
Vulcaanhaven


Pernis Eemhaven Waalhaven
2e Petroleumhaven
A4
Pr. Willem- Pr. Johan Frisohaven
Alexanderhaven Pr. Beatrixhaven

A15 Pr. Margriethaven






Pernis
The biggest refinery in the world,
Pernis operates day and night Dry
refining crude oil, which is used to docks
make hundreds of products. Lit up
at night, it looks like something
out of science fiction.





240-241_EW_Netherlands.indd 240 16/01/17 12:05 pm

RO T TERD A M  241














World Port Days
There are many types of ships to be admired
Spido Tour on the World Port Days, which are held in
Various tours around the port of Rotterdam are early September and attract thousands
available. Those lasting an hour and a half visit of visitors.
the town centre ports (see map below), whereas the
day-long tours travel as far as the Maasvlakte.



Euromast






Hotel New York
This hotel has been set up in the
early 20th-century head office of
the former Holland-America Line.
The nearby arrival halls are also of
architectural significance.

Maashaven Europoort
A total of 29,122 ocean-going vessels and 110,000
inland vessels put in at Rotterdam Port during 2015.
This makes it the busiest port in Europe. The name
“Europoort” says it all – Rotterdam is Europe’s port.
Rotterdam Port is one of the major employers of the
Netherlands, with more than 300,000 people working
for it either directly or indirectly. Total added value of
the port is more than €28 billion, approximately 10 per
cent of the country’s gross domestic product.
Zuiderpark




Maastunnel filtration plant
0 Kilometres 3
0 miles 3

Key
Bustling Rotterdam port, loading and unloading many mil lions of
Road containers every year
Railway





240-241_EW_Netherlands.indd 241 16/01/17 12:05 pm

242  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


St Janskerk, Gouda
This former Catholic church dating from 1485 was rebuilt in
the Gothic style after it was struck by fire in 1552. The church
received a number of unusual stained-glass windows from
rich Catholic benefactors, such as Philip II of Spain, between
1555 and 1571. After the Reformation (see pp56–7), the church
became Protestant, but even the fanatical Iconoclasts did
not have the heart to destroy the windows. Prominent
Protestants, including Rotterdam aldermen, donated stained-
glass windows to the church up to 1604. The stained-glass
windows are heavily symbolic of the politics of the time –
Bible stories had to be covered after the conflict between
the Catholics and Protestants, which led to the Thirty Years
War between Spain and the Netherlands.
The Nave
Judith Beheading Holofernes At 123 m (404 ft), this nave is the
This is a detail from a window which depicts longest in Holland. The floor is
Judith beheading Holo fernes. Dirck Crabeth, inset with memorial stones.
who made the window, shows John the
Baptist holding a lamb. Next to him
kneels Jan de Ligne, the count of
Arenberg, who commissioned
the window.















Visitors’
entrance








KEY
1 The Adulteress (1601) Dressed
as a Franciscan monk, Jesus appeals
to the people in the temple to
forgive the adulteress, who is being The Relief of
guarded by Spanish soldiers.
Leiden (1603)
2 North aisle William of Orange
as leader of the
3 Baptism of Jesus resistance of the
4 The Purification of the Temple people of Leiden
5 South aisle against the Spanish
siege of 1574.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–11


242-243_EW_Netherlands.indd 242 16/01/17 12:05 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SOUTH HOLLAND  243


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Achter de Kerk.
Tel 0182-512684.
Open Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm
Mon–Sat; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm
Mon–Sat, 11am–5pm public hols.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. &
7 8 ∑ sintjan.com






Nieuwpoort town hall, built over the canal in 1696
q Gouda E Museum Gouda
Achter de Kerk 14. Tel 0182-
Road Map B4. * 72,000. £ 331000. Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun.
n Markt 35 (0182-589110). Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr 25 Dec. &
( Thu am & Sat; phone tourist office ∑ museumgouda.nl
for information on cheese markets.
∑ welcometogouda.com
w Reeuwijkse
In 1272, Floris V granted Gouda its Plassen
city charter. Thanks to its strategic Road Map B4. n 0182-589110.
position on the Hollandse IJssel
and the Gouwe, the town The Reeuwijk lake district
developed into a flourishing was formed through peat
centre for beer brewing and excavation. Narrow roads pass
the textile industry in the 15th through the rectangular lakes,
century. However, Gouda became which owe their shape to for-
economically and politically mer parcels of land. The small
isolated during the Thirty Years village of Sluipwijk seems
War. The town recovered in the almost to fade away into the
17th and beginning of the 18th water. The best way to explore
The Purification of the Temple century due to its trade in cheese, this area is by bicycle or on
William of Orange donated this candles and pipes. foot. In the summer months
window, symbolizing the Gouda is still famous today for you can also take a boat trip
Netherlands’ longing to drive out its cheese and cheese markets. through this typically Dutch
the Spaniards, in 1567. Traders The markets are held on an lakeland scenery.
watch angrily as Jesus drives enormous three-sided square
moneylenders from the temple. around the Stadhuis, which
dates from 1450 and is one of e Nieuwpoort
the oldest in the Netherlands. Road Map B4. * 1,600. @ 90
With its many pinnacles and from Utrecht.
turrets, the building gives the
impression of being in the The whole of this magnificent
Flemish Gothic style. fortified town, which obtained
The Museum Gouda its city charter in 1283, has
(municipal museum) is in the been declared a listed area. The
former Catharina Gasthuis (St 17th-century street layout is
Catherine’s hospital), which practically intact. The city walls,
dates from the 14th century which are also intact, were
and later. The museum features originally built to ward off
paintings from the Hague attacks from the French but
School and unusual 16th- served mainly to protect the
century altar pieces. town against flooding. The town
hall, built over the inundation
Baptism of Jesus (1555) P Stadhuis lock, dates from 1696, while
John the Baptist baptizes Jesus in Markt 1. Tel 0182-589110. the arsenal dates from 1781.
the Jordan River. The window was Open timings vary, call to check. Restoration work was carried
a gift from the Bishop of Utrecht. Closed public hols. & 8 by appt. out in 1998.




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244  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

r Gorinchem y Dordrecht
Road Map C4. * 35,000. £ Road Map B4. * 118,600. £ n
n Grote Markt 17 (0183-631525). Spuiboulevard 99 (0900-4636888). (
( Mon am. ∑ vvvgorinchem.nl Tue am, Fri & Sat. ∑ vvvdordrecht.nl
Gorinchem, situated on the Linge The oldest town in Holland,
and the Waal, was the property of Dordrecht received its city
the Lords van Arkel in the 13th charter in 1220 and was the
century. They were driven out by most important harbour and
Count William VI and the town commercial town of the region
was then absorbed into Holland. until the 1500s. Even after being
Fortifications built at the end of outstripped by Rotterdam,
the 16th century are still partially Dordrecht remained an impor-
intact and offer marvellous views tant inland port. In the old port
over the water meadows and the area, mansions, warehouses and
Waal. Of the four town gateways, Glass blower in Leerdam almshouses are reminders of
only the Dalempoort remains. the past. The Grote Kerk (13th
The Linge harbour, in the heart of t Leerdam to 17th century), in the Brabant
the town, is still mostly authentic, Road Map C4. * 20,000. £ Gothic style, has an ornate
especially the narrow part. interior. Huis Simon van Gijn,
n Sundsvall 2 (0345-614960).
( Thu am, Sat pm. ∑ vvvleerdam.nl in the period rooms of an 18th-
Environs century house, has a collection
On the other side of the Waal is Leerdam is renowned for its of old prints, clothes and toys.
the 14th-century Slot Loevestein. glass industry. Royal Dutch The shady Hof (court of justice)
It has a very eventful history as a Glass Factory designs by (1512) contains the Statenzaal
toll castle, a defence point along Berlage, Copier and other (state room), where the States
the Hollandse Waterlinie (a strip artists can be admired in the of Holland met for the first
of land flooded as a defence line, Nationaal Glasmuseum time in 1572, thus laying the
see p201) and a state prison in the (national glass museum), and foundation of the independent
17th century. From Gorinchem, traditional crystal production Republic of the Netherlands.
the castle can be reached by can be observed at Royal
ferry, changing at Woudrichem. Leerdam Kristal. Fort Asperen, R Grote Kerk
on the Linge, is one of the Lange Geldersekade 2. Tel 078-614
P Slot Loevestein best-preserved defence points 4660. Open Apr–Oct:10:30am–
Poederoijen. Tel 0183-447171. remaining along the Nieuwe 4:30pm Tue–Sat, noon–4pm Sun;
Nov & Dec: 2–4pm Tue, Thu & Sat.
Open May, Jun & Sep: 11am–5pm Hollandse Waterlinie (see p201). 8 Apr–Oct: 2:15pm Thu & Sat. =
Tue–Sun; Jul & Aug: 11am–5pm ∑ grotekerk-dordrecht.nl
daily; Oct–Apr: 11am–5pm Sat & Sun. E Nationaal Glasmuseum
Closed 1 Jan, Good Friday, 27 Apr, Lingedijk 28. Tel 0345-614960. P Hof and Statenzaal
25 Dec. & - = g May, Jun & Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, Hof 6. Tel 078-7705250. Open 11am–
Sep: Tue–Sun; Jul & Aug: daily; Oct– noon–5pm Sun. & = 5pm Tue–Sun. Closed 25 Dec, 1 Jan.
Apr: weekends. ∑ slotloevestein.nl ∑ nationaalglasmuseum.nl ∑ hethofvannederland.nl





















A group of windmills at Kinderdijk, for centuries draining water from the Alblasserwaard
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp397–8 and pp410–11


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SOUTH HOLLAND  245


u Kinderdijk
Road Map B4. @ 90 from Rotterdam
Lombardijen station; 18 from Dordrecht
Centraal Station. n Nederwaard 1
(078-6912830). 0 ∑ kinderdijk.nl
The famous 19 windmills
which were used to drain the
Alblasserwaard in the past are
situated where the Noord and
the Lek converge. New boezems
(drainage pools) and windmills,
however, were needed time and
time again in order to span the
height differences as the land
settled. The group of windmills
is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Middelharnis Lane (c.1689) by Meindert Hobbema
i Brielle Prinsehuis, the 17th-century of the 19th century, fishing
lodgings of the Admiralty of remained the most important
Road Map B4. * 16,000. @ metro
Rotterdam CS to Spijkenisse, then 103. the Maze, the dry dock and Fort source of income.
n Markt 1 (0181-475475). ( Mon; Haerlem from the 19th century. The Late Gothic cruciform
Jul & Aug: Wed. You can learn all about fire and church (15th century) stands
fire-fighting in the local National at the heart of the village.
The magnificent port of Brielle is a Brandweermuseum (fire service Outside the town hall (1639)
protected town. The 18th-century museum). It also houses the hang the wooden blocks that
fortifications are still mostly intact. tourist information office. women branded as gossips
The town, birthplace of Admiral had to carry through the town.
van Tromp, held a strategic posi- E Nationaal Brandweermuseum
tion until the 1872 opening of the Industriehaven 8. Tel 0181-314479.
Nieuwe Waterweg (new waterway). Open Apr–Oct: 10am–4pm a Goedereede
The Historisch Museum Den Briel (from 11am Sun). 7 - Road Map A4. * 1,900. @ metro
(historic museum of Brielle) depicts ∑ nationaalbrandweermuseum.nl R’dam CS to Spijkenisse, then 111
this and the famous Beggars of to Hellevoetsluis, then 104. ( Tue.
the Sea invasion in 1572 (see box).
The tourist information office p Middelharnis Goedereede was an important
is inside the museum. The Road Map B4. * 17,900. @ 436 port in the 14th and 15th
15th-century St.-Catharijnekerk, from Rotterdam Zuidplein. ( Wed. centuries. This town, where
in Brabant Gothic style, rises from Pope Adrianus VI was born,
the surrounding monuments. During the 16th century, began to decline when it began
Middelharnis became the to silt up. The early harbour
E Historisch Museum Den Briel regional port, outstripping houses are reminiscent of the
Markt 1. Tel 0181-475475. Open Goedereede. Until the end livelier days of old.
10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 1–5pm Sun.
Closed Mon, public hols. & 7
∑ historischmuseumdenbriel.nl The Beggars of the Sea
The Beggars of the Sea were a pirate fleet which consisted
of minor Dutch and Flemish nobles who had fled at the
o Hellevoetsluis beginning of the Inquisition and sailed across the North
Road Map B4. * 40,000. @ metro Sea. They plundered other ships and caused trouble in English
Rotterdam CS to Spijkenisse, then 101. and German ports. They were forced to leave England, where
n Industriehaven 8 (0181-314479). some of their ships were berthed,
( Sat. in spring 1572. Without any clear plan,
they entered Den Briel on 1 April
At the end of the 16th century, under the command of van Lumey,
this was the naval port for the which they then held “for the Prince”.
States of Holland. Fleets led by Other towns joined the Beggars of
van Tromp, de Ruyter and Piet the Sea or were forcibly occupied by
Hein left from Hellevoetsluis them. Their pursuits represented the
for their naval battles in the first steps towards Dutch independence
1600s. Within the old fortifi- from Spain and the creation of Dutch
cations, visitors are reminded Van Lumey sea power.
of the town’s naval past by the




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WESTERN NE THERLANDS  247

ZEELAND


The tiny province of Zeeland, as its name implies, is
inextricably linked with water and the sea. For hundreds
of years, the power of the North Sea and the flooding
deltas of the Maas and Schelde rivers have shaped the
landscape, encouraging resilience in the inhabitants
and the desire to control the elements.

From earliest times, storms and floods become a haven for wildlife and a
have taken their toll here. In the last playground for lovers of watersports.
century, the devastation of two world Towns such as Middelburg, Zierikzee
wars was followed by the disastrous floods and Veere and villages such as Nisse,
and storm surges of 1953. Although St Anna-ter-Muiden and Dreischor have
there are a number of fine churches and lots of old buildings, some of which
public buildings dating as far back as the have been restored to their 17th-century
14th century, in places near the coast grandeur, with attractive features such
there are very few houses more than as bell towers and frescoes.
50 years old. As a result, determination The close relationship with water and
to keep the waters at bay has spawned the sea is well documented in a variety
massive construction and canal building, of small museums. The tangible benefits
with giant dams and land reclamation are perhaps twofold: an abundance of
schemes offering a level of security seafood for the province’s restaurants, and
that has changed the landscape forever. the aforementioned opportunities for
The storms were not all bad news. Traces water sports. Few regions in Europe offer as
of Roman settlements were uncovered, much scope for sailing, windsurfing, water
and lakes and inland waterways have skiing and diving as does little Zeeland.





























The 15th-century Stadhuis (town hall) dominating the historic town of Veere
Aerial view of the beach at low tide, Domburg



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248  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring Zeeland

Touring around Zeeland, you cannot ignore the sea. The journey becomes
a small adventure as you encounter bridges, dams and ferry docks.
Sometimes you will travel along a straight ribbon of a road, sometimes a Renesse
windy lane. The ever-present and often turbulent water is never the same BROUWERSHAVEN
colour for long: it can quickly change from a grey-green reflecting the Schouwen
vivid blue sky to the white of wave crests beneath leaden skies.
Passing over one of the many dams, you will reach the next HAAMSTEDE Serooskerke Dreischor
Wester-
island, with its own special character. Tholen, for example, is schouwen Duiveland
quiet – almost morose – whereas Walcheren is full of BRUINISSE
surprises and has a wonderful atmosphere. Travelling ZIERIKZEE
through Zeeland is a journey of discovery. OOSTERSCHELDE
STORMVLOEDKERING
Ouwerkerk St Philipsland
Getting Around
Colijnsplaat
The best way to visit all the ST ANNALAND
islands of Zeeland is by car. The Noord-
roads here are excellent – the A58 DOMBURG Beveland T holen
or the N57 will quickly bring you Kortgene O o s t e r s c h e l d e
to the centre of the province, VEERE ST MAARTENSDIJK
where you can choose one of the WESTKAPELLE Walcheren
smaller roads to take you to your THOLEN
destination. The through train will Arnemuiden
take you from Amsterdam to GOES YERSEKE
Middelburg and Vlissingen in just
two and a half hours. If you want MIDDELBURG Kapelle
to explore other islands, you will Oost-Souburg Zuid- Beveland
need to continue on a regional NISSE
bus – though this can be quite VLISSINGEN Kruiningen
time-consuming. There are many Borssele ZEELAND Krabbendijke
cycle paths and it is great fun
cycling over the dykes.
Breskens Ellewoutsdijk
CADZAND Kloosterzande
W e s t e r s c h e l d e
Sights at a Glance Zeeuws
1 Oosterschelde Stormvloed-
kering pp250–51
2 Middelburg pp252–3 St-Anna- Oostburg IJzendijke TERNEUZEN Vlaanderen
3 Veere ter-Muiden
4 Domburg SLUIS Zaamslag
5 Vlissingen
6 Westkapelle Aardenburg Axel HULST
7 Zierikzee
8 Haamstede
9 Brouwershaven
0 Bruinisse
q St Annaland
w St Maartensdijk Key
e Tholen Motorway
r Goes
t Yerseke Main road
y Nisse Minor road
u Hulst Scenic route
i Terneuzen Minor railway
o Sluis National border
p Cadzand
Regional border
Tilting at the ring – a Zeeland sport
For map symbols see back flap


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Explorer template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.4)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm