(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - The Netherlands

ZEELAND  249







Renesse
BROUWERSHAVEN
Schouwen
HAAMSTEDE Serooskerke Dreischor
Wester-
schouwen Duiveland
BRUINISSE Divers at Zeeland’s inland lakes
ZIERIKZEE
OOSTERSCHELDE
STORMVLOEDKERING
Ouwerkerk St Philipsland
Colijnsplaat
ST ANNALAND
Noord-
DOMBURG Beveland T holen
Kortgene
VEERE O o s t e r s c h e l d e ST MAARTENSDIJK
Walcheren
WESTKAPELLE
THOLEN
Arnemuiden
GOES YERSEKE
MIDDELBURG Kapelle
Zuid- Beveland
Oost-Souburg
VLISSINGEN NISSE
Kruiningen
ZEELAND
Borssele Krabbendijke
Breskens Ellewoutsdijk
CADZAND
W e s t e r s c h e l d e
Kloosterzande
Zeeuws
Fishing nets drying at Yerseke
TERNEUZEN Vlaanderen
IJzendijke
St-Anna- Oostburg
ter-Muiden
Zaamslag
SLUIS
Aardenburg Axel HULST












0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
The fertile black clay soil of Zeeland
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp411–12


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250  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

1 Oosterschelde
Stormvloedkering

Throughout the centuries, the history of the Netherlands
has been dominated by its people’s struggle against the
sea. After the disastrous floods of 1953, which hit Zeeland The Windsock
heavily, the battle to remove the danger of the sea once When the windsock is full, a
and for all was undertaken in earnest. Now the Dutch seem warning is sounded, and people
to have minimized the threat of flooding by building are advised to avoid driving over
dykes and dams and closing off tidal inlets, all of which the dams and bridges between
the islands. Vigilance saves lives.
has had a major impact on the landscape.









Storms
Storms are a part of everyday life
in Zeeland: storms on the beach
or over the flat polders, storms
which blow the cobwebs away
and storms which make you fear
for your life.






The Fateful Night of 1953
On the night of 31 January 1953,
an event considered impossible in
modern times occurred. A combination
of spring tides and storms breached
the dykes and washed them away
as loose sand. A total of 1,835 people
lost their lives.

Deltapark Neeltje Jans
This attraction has been built on an artificial island, Neeltje Jans, on
which the piers for the Oosterschelde Stormvloedkering (storm
surge barrier) were assembled, then taken by special barges to their
positions. Now that task is finished, the island is being used mainly for
recreational and informative
purposes. At the Deltapark
you can find out about the
Delta projects and about how
the barrier works. You can see
the barrier from the inside,
and then take a boat trip to Luctor et Emergo
view it from the outside. This Latin motto meaning
There is an aquarium here, “I struggle and emerge
as well as a seal show; you victorious” is on Zeeland’s
can also experience a coat of arms, which depicts
simulated hurricane in the the Netherlands lion half in
“hurricane machine”. Neeltje Jans, educating visitors about the sea the water. This was wholly
appropriate for 1953.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp411–12



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ZEELAND  251

Concrete Piers
The piers were VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
made on the
artificial island of Practical Information
Neeltje Jans and Road Map A4–5. Deltapark
then transported Neeltje Jans, Faelweg 5,
by special barges Vrouwenpolder.
to their destination. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5:30pm
This mighty task daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Wed,
attracted a great Sat & Sun. & 7 - 0 =
deal of attention. Transport
@ 133.





The Delta Works
The Delta Works have had far-
reaching consequences for the
landscape and environment. The
Zeeland islands, having been
joined to the mainland, are no
longer isolated.


Half-open Buttress Dam
It took 13 years and €3.6 billion (two-thirds
of the cost of the Delta Works) to build the
Oosterschelde kering. After much deliberation,
the decision was made to keep open the
estuary and to preserve the salty estuary
habitat. A half-open multiple buttress dam
was built, with 62 sliding gates, which are
closed on average once a year during heavy
storms. This keeps the water salty and has
preserved the unique salt marshes and mud
flats of the Oosterschelde.
KEY
1 Concrete piers bear the sea wall.
2 The sliding gates are closed only
when the water is high.
3 A road has been built over
the dam.
4 Ground protection prevents the
earth from being washed away.
5 The piers rest on
solid foundations.







The Terps
Man-made mounds,
such as these near Borssele,
were built in the 11th and 12th
centuries to protect farms and
villages from the water.




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252  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Street-by-Street: Middelburg

Middelburg suffered heavy Nazi bombing in 1940.
A lot of what is to be seen in the town today has been
rebuilt, including the Stadhuis (town hall) and the
abbey. The town is still redolent with the atmosphere
of the Golden Age, an era during which the Dutch East
India Company thrived in the port area along the quay. . St-Jorisdoelen
This doelen, the guardsmen’s
Middelburg is a pretty town and there is plenty to be guild building, was built in
seen on a walk around the centre. Children will be 1582 and destroyed in 1940;
kept busy by Mini Mundi. the façade was rebuilt in 1969.

Zeeuws Archief, the archives of
the province, are now housed in a
historic monument, the van de Perre S T R A A T
W A G E N A A R L
House on the Hofplen, which has B
been given a spectacular new wing. A
A
Key N
S
Recommended route
H O F P L E I N K



O
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T
E
B
U
R
G
0 metres 50
0 yards 50 L N E G R O E N M A R K T

A
G




N O O R D S T R A AT
G
R
U
B U R G G A N G
B

E
W
U
E
I
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M A R K T
. Stadhuis
The 15th-century town hall was The fish market
completely destroyed by fire in already existed in 1559.
1940 and has been partially rebuilt. The passageway, with
A 20th-century extension can be its Tuscan pillars, dates
seen on the northern side. from 1830.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp411–12

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MIDDELBURG  253

Mini Mundi
This miniature VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
town, started in
1954, now contains Practical Information
more than 350 Road Map A5. * 47,500.
∑ minimundi.nl
buildings, and ∑ uitinmiddelburg.nl
forms part of n Markt 51. Tel 0118–674300.
the Mini Mundi
amusement park. Open Mon–Sat. & 7
( Thu, Sat. Stadhuis: Markt.
8 from Stadhuis (tickets are
available from Markt 51).
Transport
@ £





D A M P L E I N

S I N T P I E T E R

S T R A A T



. Abbey
Many years of restoration work on
the abbey have finally paid off.
T
F
L
E
D
O N D E R D E N E T R O
T O R E N
K
Lange Jan
Translated as
G R O E N M A R K T
“Long John”, this
91-m (300-ft) high
tower belongs to
the Nieuwe Kerk
in the abbey
W A L P L E I N D E L F and dates from
complex. It has an
T
octagonal plan
G the 14th century.
R L A N G E
U
B

E
W
U
E
I
N
London Quay
The names of the quays reflect the goods that
were being exported from and imported to the
Netherlands during the Golden Age (see pp54–5).
S I N T J A N S S T R A A T


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254  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Zeeuws Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Middelburg Abbey dates back to 1100, when it was Practical Information
inhabited by Norbertine monks from the monastery of Zeeuws Museum, Abdij 3–4.
St Michiel of Antwerp. These very powerful monks were Road Map A5. Tel 0118-653000.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun.
driven away in 1574 by William of Orange, after which the Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. &
abbey was secularized. The renovated Zeeuws Museum ∑ zeeuwsmuseum.nl
is situated in the wing of the building that was once the
monks’ quarters. The completely redesigned interior presents
the museum’s fine collections of china, silver, paintings
and its famous tapestries in a completely new light.
Altar of Nehalennia
The altars found near
Domburg in the 17th
Museum Guide century were consecrated
The Zeeuws Museum is located in one of the to the indigenous goddess
Nehalennia,who was
oldest wings of the abbey. It is a provincial worshipped by
museum with various different sections, the Romans.
including History, Fashion, Chamber of
Wonders and the famous Tapestry
Room. There are also temporary
exhibitions that cover a wide
variety of subjects.
































Key to Floorplan
Art and History
Chamber of Wonders
Costume Collection
Fashion
The museum has a collection of jewellery, accessories
Temporary Exhibitions and costumes, here displayed with video made for the
Non-Exhibition Space museum by contemporary artists.



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ZEELAND  255

3 Veere
Road Map A5. * 1,500. @
n Grote Markt 5 (0118-435858).
∑ vvvzeeland.nl
Past and present merge in
Veere. Modern pleasure boats
moor along the quay opposite
the Gothic façades of Het
Lammetje (the lamb) (1539)
and De Struijs (the ostrich)
(1561). These Schotse Huizen
(Scottish houses) serve as a
reminder of the time that the
port was important for its
trade in precious Scottish wool.
Other monuments to Veere’s
illustrious past are the Stadhuis
(1474), the Campveerse Toren,
a tower dating to around Pleasure boats moored at the marina in Vlissingen
1500, and the OL-Vrouwekerk
(Church of Our Lady), dating 5 Vlissingen
from the 15th–16th centuries. Road Map A5. * 43,200. @ £ E Amusement Park Het Arsenaal
This enormous church, once n Spuistraat 46 (0118-715320). ( Fri. Arsenaalplein 7. Tel 0118-415400.
almost demolished, is now Open check website for opening
used as a venue for baroque, Vlissingen is a bustling town. The times. Closed 25 Dec. & 7
classical and contemporary main thrust behind the economy ∑ arsenaal.com
music concerts. of this, the largest town in Zeeland, E Reptielenzoo Iguana
are the ports in Vlissingen itself, as Bellamypark 35. Tel 0118-417219.
well as those of the industrial area Open Jun–Sep: 10am–5:30pm Tue–
4 Domburg Vlissingen-Oost and scheepswerf Sat, 1–5:30pm Sun & Mon; Oct–May:
De Schelde (De Schelde ship yard). 1–5:30pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
Road Map A5. * 1,600. @ & ∑ iguana.nl
n Schuitvlotstraat 32 (0118-583484). Vlissingen has always been of
great military significance. The
Domburg was one of the first wartime activity this attracted
seaside resorts in the Netherlands. meant that the town could not 6 Westkapelle
In the 19th century, this little town escape the consequences. One of Road Map A5. * 2,800. @ n
5on Walcheren was popular the few remaining buildings from Zuidstraat 154 (0118-570700). ( Fri.
among promi nent Europeans, the time of Michiel de Ruyter to
who came here to relax and have withstood the ravages of the The most impressive sight in
recuperate in the chic seaside years is the Arsenaal, dating from Westkapelle is its sea wall, the
hotels on the dunes. It has now 1649. A second arsenal from 1823 history of which is fascinating.
given way to mass tourism. is now the Amusement Park Het In former times, this town lay
Arsenaal (see p426), which is securely behind the dunes, but
Environs especially interesting for children. these were washed away in the
An inland lake lies hidden The reptiles and insects show- 15th century. This meant that
between dunes, woods and the cased at Reptielenzoo Iguana, the access route to the island
Oostkapelle polder. The pretty which is housed in two adjoining shifted. A dyke was built, which
nature reserve De Manteling is 18th-century mansions, offer a was completed in 1458. The
worth visiting, as is Westhove different type of attraction. lighthouse, once a church, also
castle, which was the Abbot dates from this time. The dyke
of Midde lburg’s country house was bombed by the Allies in
until the 16th century. It now order to flood Walcheren so
houses a youth hostel. Terra it could be liberated. At the
Maris, Zeel and’s natural Polderhuis visitors can learn
landscape museum, is in the more about Westkapelle’s his-
castle’s former orangery. tory, including the wartime years.

E Terra Maris E Polderhuis Dijk en
Duinvlietweg 6. Tel 0118-582620. Oorlogsmuseum
Open May–Oct: 10am–5pm daily; Zuidstraat 154. Tel 0118-570700.
Nov–Apr: noon–5pm Wed–Fri, Open Apr–Oct: daily; Nov–Mar:
noon–4pm Sat & Sun. - = Exterior façade of the chic Badhôtel Wed–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 & 31 Dec.
∑ terramaris.nl in Domburg & - =
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp411–12


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256  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


nearby Slot Haamstede, a castle
dating from the 13th century,
is surrounded by a park with
pleasant walks.
+ Slot Haamstede
Haamstede, near church.
Open grounds only; castle closed
to public.
Environs
Westerschouwen, 5 km (3 miles)
southwest of Haam stede, has
an impressive landscape and
illustrious past. The dunes lie
on the western edge, barren
with a scattering of gorse in
places, in others covered with
coniferous forest.
The medieval Zuidhavenpoort in Zierikzee You can climb to the top of
Plompetoren, the tower of the
7 Zierikzee against Charles the Bold, is now-submerged Koudekerke,
re-enacted each summer. which rises from the salt marshes.
Road Map A4. * 11,100. @
n Nieuwe Haven 7 (0111-410940). On the edge of the dunes is
( Thu. E Stadhuismuseum Slot Moermond.
Meelstraat 6. Tel 0111-454464. Open
With 568 listed houses, Zierikzee 11am–5pm Tue–Sat (Jul–Aug: Mon– E Plompe Toren
ranks eighth in the list of Sat), 1–5pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, Corner of Plompetorenweg & Koudek-
Dutch historic towns. The 25 Dec. ∑ stadhuismuseum.nl erkseweg. Open 10am–6pm daily.
impressive city gateways can
be seen from afar. The many Environs
terraces on the Havenplein A museum in Ouwerkerk is
offer a marvellous view of the two devoted to the floods of 1953.
harbour entrances and ornate
mansion houses on Oude E Museum Watersnood 1953
Haven (old harbour), and the Weg van de Buitenlandse Pers 5.
trickle of the Gouwe, the Tel 0111-644382. Open Apr–Oct:
creek that brought trading 10am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar:
prosperity to Zierikzee. The Gothic noon–4pm Tue–Sun. &
Gravensteen (1524–6), ∑ watersnoodmuseum.nl
once the home of the Count of
Holland, now houses a fair- Isolated Plompe Toren of the
trade shop. 8 Haamstede now-submerged Koudekerke
The Zierikzee skyline shows Road Map A4. * 3,800. @ n
the still unfinished Dikke Toren Noordstraat 45a (0111-450524). ( Thu.
(great tower), construction of 9 Brouwershaven
which began in 1454. At 130 m Haamstede is a peaceful town Road Map A4. * 1,400. @ ( Mon.
(425 ft), it must have been the built around a church. The
highest point of the colossal Quiet Brouwershaven combines
12th-century St-Lievenskerk, a historic centre with a modern
which burnt to the ground port. The Havenka naal to the
in 1832. marina and the Stadhuis date
Strolling through the narrow from 1599. The 14th-century
streets along the new and St-Nicolaaskerk (Church of
old harbours, you will chance St Nicholas) is a monument to
upon passageways that past glory. The town prospered
offer glimpses of old façades, again as an outport to Rotterdam
such as of the 14th-century until the Nieuwe Waterweg (new
De Haene house, or the waterway) was built in 1870.
former Stadhuis (1550–54),
now the Stadhuismuseum. E Brouws Museum
One of the most famous Haven Zuidzijde 14–15. Tel 0111-
historic events in Holland, Slot Haamstede, painstakingly restored 691342. Open 1–5pm Mon–Fri.
the revolt of Zierikzee in 1472 in the 1960s = & ∑ brouwsmuseum.nl
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp411–12


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ZEELAND  257


of the tomb of Floris van
Borssele (who died in 1422) and
his wife are still to be seen in a
burial chapel of the slender
14th- to 15th-century church.
Much of the original carving
and fragments of the old
paintings have been preserved.
The foundations and moat of
the van Borssele castle, which
was demolished in 1820, can
still be found outside the town.
The most impressive part of
the town itself is the Markt, with
its 16th-century houses and
elegant Stadhuis.
Brouwershaven, now a focus for water recreation
e Tholen
0 Bruinisse of the madder plant and
processing of its root into a red Road Map B5. * 6,100. @
Road Map B4. * 3,000. @ n VVV n see St Maartensdijk.
Zierikzee (0111-410940). ( Wed. dye was, until the 19th century,
one of the main livelihoods of Tholen is a Zeeland town with
Bruinisse is now mainly a centre the region. It was brought to an a Brabant flavour. Two buildings
for watersports. The modern end in 1868 by the invention of dominate the town – the
bungalow park Aqua Delta is artificial dyes. marvellous Stadhuis (1452),
situated outside the old village with its robust battlements,
next to the marina. E Streekmuseum De Meestoof and the ornate OL-Vrouwekerk
Bierensstraat 6–8. Tel 0166-652901. (Church of Our Lady), dating
Environs Open Apr–Oct: 2–5pm Tue–Sat. & from the 14th to 16th
To get an idea of what this ∑ demeestoof.nl centuries. The kapel van
countryside looked like in het St-Laurensgasthuis
earlier times, visit the ringdorp (St Laurensgasthuis chapel),
(circle-shaped village) w St Maartensdijk which has been rebuilt into
Dreischor, 10 km (6 miles) Road Map B5. * 3,300. @ a residential home, stands
west of Bruinisse. It has a n Markt 1 (0166-663771). opposite the church. Even
typical village church and though Tholen became a
town hall. On the edge of the St Maartensdijk has been the fortified town in the 16th
village is Goemanszorg, an “capital” of Tholen since 1971. century, it has retained its old
agricultural museum devoted This town has much to remind character. Gothic façades are
to farming past and present. us of its patrons, the powerful everywhere to remind us of
Lords van Borssele. The remains its former prosperity.
E Goemanszorg
Molenweg 3, Dreischor. Tel 0111-
402303. Open Easter–Oct: 11am–5pm
Tue–Sun & public hols. & 7 -
∑ goemanszorg.nl

q St Annaland
Road Map B5. * 3,000. @ n see
St Maartensdijk.
Tholen is the least well- known
island of Zeeland. Here there is
a constantly changing scenery
of poplars and pollard willows,
fields and quiet towns, such as
St Annaland, with its picturesque
harbour on the Krabbenkreek.
Streekmuseum De Meestoof
(regional madder museum) is an
interesting reminder of Zeeland’s
industrial past. The cultivation Pumping station in a rural setting in the neighbourhood of Tholen




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258  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

r Goes
Road Map A5. * 24,000. @ £
n Singelstraat 13 (0113-235990).
( Tue, Sat.
Some of the historical towns
of Zeeland are charming yet
sleepy, but Goes is wide-awake.
Every Tuesday there is an old-
fashioned market featuring
fabrics and groceries which
takes place on a square full Imposing heraldic ornament on Goes Raadhuis
of Zeeland atmosphere, the
Grote Markt. The Raadhuis a tradition of oyster farming Zuid-Beveland, lost in 1530 along
(town hall), dating from and mussel fishing that has with Reimerswaal, at the time
1463 (rebuilt between 1771 continued until the present day. the third-largest Zeeland town.
and 1775), stands at the front The nature reserve Yerseke
of the square, representing Moer, to the west of the village,
the magistrates’ power with shows how the island used to y Nisse
all its bulk and loftiness. look: a desolate patchwork of Road Map A5. * 580. @
The rococo interior with its inlets, hamlets, rough pasture n see Goes.
grisailles and stucco ceiling lands, coves, peat moors and
is particularly attractive. The water holes. To the east of Yerseke Nisse is a typical Beveland
majestic St-Maria-Magdalenakerk lies the submerged land of village with square, ford and
(Church of Mary Magdalen) church. The church is worth a
(15th to 16th century) rises visit; though it does not look like
up behind the town hall. much from the outside, inside
The cruciform basilica has you will be surprised by unique,
been restored. 15th-century frescoes depicting
the saints, scenes from the life
of Mary and the coats of arms of
t Yerseke the Lords van Borssele. Carvings
on the choir vault and stalls are
Road Map A5. * 6,100. @ £
n Kerkplein 1 (0113-571864). ( Fri. also from the 15th century.
As they say in Zuid-Beveland, R Hervormde kerk
“De een zijn dood de ander zijn Key available from church secretary
brood” (“One man’s meat is Tel (0113-649780). Open Jul–Aug:
another man’s poison”). Yerseke 1:30–5pm Sat. 8 for groups only
came to be situated on the (call to book). ∑ mariakerk-nisse.nl
Oosterschelde following the
St-Felixstormvloed (St Felix A fishing boat in Yerseke bringing home Environs
storm flood) of 1530. So began the catch The Zak van Zuid-Beveland,
south of the railway line to
Middelburg, is characteristic for
Oyster Farming
its balance between nature and
Oysters apparently have all sorts of beneficial side effects, improved culture. The landscape is a
virility being the most well known. Whether this is true or not, this succession of polders, divided
slippery delicacy makes any meal seem festive. Oyster farming by dykes covered with flowers
began in 1870 when suitable parts of the river bed were no longer or sheep grazing.
available for free fishing and were transferred to private use. Oyster
farming flourished along the Oosterschelde, particularly in Yerseke,
but the oysters were vulnerable to disease and harsh winters. u Hulst
Concern that oyster
farming would be Road Map B5. * 10,800. @ n
impossible when the Steenstraat 37 (0114-315221). ( Mon.
Grevelingen was changed Cross over the Westerschelde
from an open estuary to
a lake after the comple- and you are simultaneously in
tion of the Delta Works Flanders and in the Netherlands.
(see pp250–51) has so far St-Willibrordus-basiliek
proved unfounded – the (St Willibrordus basilica) towers
oysters already are less above the town from afar.
Oysters, a tasty delicacy prone to disease. Generations of Keldermans, a
Mechelen building family, have
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp411–12


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ZEELAND  259


worked on this church. One
unusual feature in Hulst is the
trio of hostels, once safe houses
for the monks from the Flemish
abbeys Ten Duinen, Baudelo
and Cambron.
Nearby is the former village
of Hulsterloo, famous from the
medieval epic Reynard the Fox.

i Terneuzen
Road Map A5. * 24,500. @
n Noordstraat 62 (0115-760122).
( Wed, Fri.
Terneuzen has an important
port. The mighty sea locks in
the Kanaal van Gent naar
Terneuzen (Gent-Terneuzen
canal), built between 1825 and Gentse Poort, the gateway to the Flemish-tinged town of Hulst
1827, are also impressive. The
town has industrial areas to the powerful towns in Flanders. p Cadzand
north and nature reserves to This can still be seen from Road Map A5. * 800.
the west (de Braakman) and the St-Baafskerk, a flawless n Boulevard de Wielingen 44d
east (Otheense Kreek). 13th-century example of the (0117-391298). ( Jul & Aug: Mon pm.
Scheldt Gothic style famous
for its painted sarcophagi. The The modern seaside resort
o Sluis Gemeentelijk Archeo logisch Cadzand is particularly popular
Museum Aardenburg for its wide stretch of sand. A
Road Map A5. * 2,100. @ n
Groote Markt 1 (0117-461700). ( Fri. (Aardenburg municipal common pursuit here is to
archaeological museum) search for fossilized sharks’ teeth.
The Zeeland-Flanders landscape deals solely with the Romans. Along the dunes are dignified
is scarred by the effects of seaside hotels reminiscent of
floods and the dykes built to E Gemeentelijk Archeolo gisch those of Domburg. A little way
deal with them. Both polders Museum Aardenburg past Cadzand is the Zwin nature
and inner dykes bear witness to Marktstraat 18. Tel 0117-492888. reserve, which extends as far
the constant struggle with the Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, as Knokke in Belgium. The
sea. The liberation of Zeeland- 1–5pm Sat–Sun. Closed Oct–Mar. & resort of Nieuwvliet lies to
Flanders in 1944 was also hard- 8 ∑ museumaardenburg.nl the east of Cadzand.
fought, devastating towns and
villages such as Sluis. The
14th-century Stadhuis, with its
belfry, the only one existing in
the Netherlands, was restored
in its former style after 1945,
including the bell tower with
the statue, which has the
nickname Jantje van Sluis.
Environs
St-Anna-ter-Muiden, 2 km
(1.5 miles) to the west of Sluis,
is a village beloved by artists.
Once prosperous, the town now
has just a few houses around
the square, with a village pump
and the stump of a tower. To
the south is the oldest town
in Zeeland: Aardenburg. The
Romans built a fort here in the
2nd century to ward off Saxon
pirates. Aardenburg later
became one of the most The broad sandy beaches of Cadzand, always popular in summer




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Date 15th November 2012
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NORTHERN

AND EASTERN


NETHERLANDS





Northern and Eastern
Netherlands 262–267
The West Frisian Islands 268–279

Groningen 280–293
Friesland 294–305
Drenthe 306–315
Overijssel 316–325
Flevoland 326–333

Gelderland 334–349






































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262  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS

Northern and Eastern
Netherlands at a Glance

The Northern and Eastern Netherlands are more sparsely
populated than other areas. They encompass the West
Frisian Islands (Waddeneilanden) and the provinces of
Groningen, Friesland, Drenthe, Overijssel, Flevoland Uithuizen
and Gelderland. Agriculture and trade have always
played a predominant role here. This part WEST FRISIAN Winsum Delfzijl
ISLANDS
of Holland has many natural and (see pp268–79) Dokkum
recreation areas, such as the Waddenzee
mud flats, Frisian coast, coastal Groningen GRONINGEN
(see pp280–93)
Lauwersmeergebied, Hondsrug, Leeuwarden
Nationaal Park De Hoge Veluwe, Harlingen Haren Winschoten
Sallandse Heuvelrug and the Drachten
Oostvaardersplassen. Den Burg FRIESLAND Veendam
(see pp294–305) Zuidlaren
Bolsward
Sneek
Oosterwolde Assen
Heerenveen
Wolvega
DRENTHE
Lemmer (see pp306–15)
Emmen

Hoogeveen
Emmeloord
Meppel
Coevorden
The waddengebied (see pp272–3) De Elfstedentocht
provides a habitat for many species of (see pp298–9), a long-distance
birds. It is an important area for both ice-skating race, was held 15
resident and migrating birds. The worms, times during the last century. Kampen Ommen
molluscs and crustaceans are an ideal Over 16,000 skaters have Dronten
source of food for ducks, seagulls and skated the Tocht der Tochten, Lelystad Zwolle
wading birds. a 200-km (124-mile) stretch.
FLEVOLAND OVERIJSSEL
(see pp326–33) (see pp316–25)
Almere Nunspeet Raalte
0 metres 20 Almelo
Nijverdal
0 yards 20 Zeewolde
Ermelo
Hengelo
Deventer
Nijkerk Enschede
Apeldoorn
Lochem Haaksbergen
The Batavia (see p331) Zutphen
was owned by the Dutch
East India Company. GELDERLAND
This three-master was Ede (see pp334–49)
45 m (148 ft) long and
had room for 350 men. Arnhem Doesburg Winterswijk
A replica of the Batavia
was built between 1985
and 1995 at the Batavia- Tiel
Werf (Batavia wharf) in Nijmegen
Lelystad, which is now
working on a replica of Zaltbommel
Michiel de Ruyter’s
17th-century flagship,
De Zeven Provinciën.
The picturesque outline of the fortified city of Doesburg, Gelderland

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INTRODUCING THE NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS  263










Uithuizen
WEST FRISIAN Delfzijl Groninger Museum (see pp288–9),
ISLANDS Winsum designed by Alessandro Mendini, has
(see pp268–79) Dokkum a large collection of archaeological
pieces and works of art.
GRONINGEN
Groningen (see pp280–93)
Leeuwarden
Harlingen
Haren Winschoten
Den Burg FRIESLAND Drachten Veendam
(see pp294–305) Zuidlaren
Bolsward
Sneek
Oosterwolde Assen
Heerenveen
Wolvega Megaliths (see pp310–11) were built
DRENTHE some 5,000 years ago by the
Lemmer (see pp306–15) Neolithic Beaker Folk. There are 54
Emmen megaliths – almost all of them
are to be found in Drenthe.
Hoogeveen
Emmeloord
Meppel
Coevorden

Kampen
Dronten Ommen
Lelystad
Zwolle
FLEVOLAND OVERIJSSEL
(see pp326–33) (see pp316–25)
Almere Nunspeet Raalte Almelo
Nijverdal Giethoorn (see pp322–3), a village in
Zeewolde the Kop van Overijssel, consists of
Ermelo farmhouse-style buildings along the
Hengelo
Deventer canal. The village is surrounded by
Nijkerk Enschede woods and lakes, which is why it has
been called the Green Venice.
Apeldoorn
Lochem Haaksbergen
Zutphen
Paleis Het Loo
GELDERLAND (Het Loo Palace)
Ede (see pp334–49) The building now
housing the National
Doesburg
Arnhem Winterswijk Museum (see pp338–9)
was constructed in 1692
as a hunting palace
for the stadtholder
Tiel
Nijmegen William III. The palace’s
chief architect was
Zaltbommel Jacob Roman; both the
interior and gardens
were designed by
Daniël Marot.

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264  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS


Environmental Policy

In the 1990s, the Dutch government drew up the Natuurbeleidsplan, a SCHIERMONNIKOOG
programme designed to make nature reserves accessible to the public. AMELAND
This is of great importance to the northern and eastern Netherlands, with TERSCHELLING G R O N I N G E N
their many lakes, woods and polders. The region’s ecosystem has been W E S T F R I S I A N
divided into core areas, development areas and connecting zones in an I S L A N D S F R I E S L A N D
attempt to give permanence to the natural environment. The connecting VLIELAND Groningen
zones join the areas together. When the policy is fully implemented, it Leeuwarden
will aid in the survival of many plant and animal species.
TEXEL
Assen
Key
Core area
Natural development area
Existing or planned
connecting zone
N O R T H
Existing or planned connecting D R E N T H E
zone to cross­border nature reserve H O L L A N D
0 kilometres 10
Lelystad
0 miles 10
F L E V O -
AMSTERDAM L A N D O V E R I J S S E L
The Waterleidingduinen (water Zwolle
supply dunes) are only partly Haarlem
open to the public.
Enschede
The osprey was a rare sight G E L D E R L A N D
in Holland for many years. The Hague
Thanks to the Natuurbeleids­ Utrecht
plan, sightings of this bird S O U T H U T R E C H T
of prey have become H O L L A N D Arnhem
more frequent in Rotterdam
recent years.


Special road signs have been Z E E L A N D 's-Hertogenbosch
designed to warn
motorists of migrating G E R M A N Y
toads during that
animal’s mating
season. Usually shy, Middelburg N O R T H B R A B A N T
toads come out
en masse when
mating. Eindhoven

Read the Signs! Antwerp B E L G I U M
Most natural areas (or parts of them) in the L I M B U R G
northern and eastern Netherlands are freely The adder is the only
accessible. However, some parts are open only venomous snake in
from sunrise (zonsopkomst) to sunset Holland and is very rare
(zonsondergang), and it is therefore important to here. However, this
read the signs. It goes without saying that you small, distinctive snake
should not make excessive noise, cause damage or can still be found in
leave litter in the area. Further information is sandy regions and peat Maastricht
available at VVV offices, the ANWB and the moors. In order to feed
Vereniging Natuurmonumenten (tel. 035­6559933).
properly, adders require
an extensive habitat. Aachen





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NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS  265





SCHIERMONNIKOOG
AMELAND
TERSCHELLING G R O N I N G E N
W E S T F R I S I A N
I S L A N D S F R I E S L A N D
VLIELAND Groningen
Leeuwarden The otter was extinct in Holland for
many years, but has recently
been reintroduced and is
TEXEL beginning to flourish.
Assen


The golden
plover, a rare
N O R T H wading bird which
D R E N T H E
H O L L A N D has been put under
pressure by the
reclamation of peat
Lelystad bogs and
F L E V O - heathland, is the
AMSTERDAM L A N D O V E R I J S S E L object of a special
Zwolle plan that will
Haarlem enable it to recover
its numbers in
the Netherlands.
Enschede
G E L D E R L A N D
The Hague Connecting
Utrecht zones in
S O U T H Flevoland
H O L L A N D U T R E C H T Arnhem linking various
Rotterdam natural areas are
now being set up for,
among others, the common frog, the
polecat, the European water shrew, the
G E R M A N Y
pond bat, the grass snake and the
Z E E L A N D 's-Hertogenbosch beaver. Specific corridors are being
developed for butterflies.
Middelburg N O R T H B R A B A N T

Eindhoven


Antwerp B E L G I U M
L I M B U R G


Connections between core areas and
The common hamster and development areas in some cases consist
other protected animals of “ecoducts”. The vegetated passages
Maastricht cause headaches for atop the tunnels are designed to allow
developers. The Nature wildlife access to either side of the road,
Protection Act prevents thereby linking two areas of great
building on or the use of importance for flora and fauna without
Aachen areas they inhabit. exposing them to road hazards.





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266  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS INTRODUCING THE NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS  267


Distinctive Landscapes

The northeast of the Netherlands has a number of
distinctive landscape types, such as the unique mud
flats, or Waddenzee, where the sand and clay is
exposed at low tide; the peat moors in southeast
Groningen; the enchanting heathland of Drenthe;
the endless polder landscape of Flevoland; the
splendid forests of Gelderland (Hoge Veluwe and The Oostvaardersplassen (lakes),
Posbank) and the magnificent riverscapes and between Lelystad and Almere, make
seascapes in the northeast of Overijssel. up a unique natural landscape. It is a
breeding ground and feeding area for
hundreds of species of birds.
Glasswort is
a wild plant
which grows
in mud flats
and on silt
deposits. It is
a prized
culinary
delicacy.








West Frisian Islands
The Waddenzee (see pp274–5) is an area of mud flats which is
largely dry at low tide. It attracts many species of birds that
come here to forage and to feed. The island of Texel features
the peat walls of the Hoge Berg.
Water crowfoot occurs in both
flowing and standing water.

Rapeseed
plantations are
used for land
improvements
in new polders.
The yellow
fields seem
to stretch
endlessly to
the horizon.

Bulrushes
were once
common in
the region.
The “cigars” Polder Landscape
grow only by
fresh water Forests (het Knarbos), lakes (the Oostvaardersplassen) and
and are now coastal lakes (the Veluwemeer) punctuate the flat polder
protected. landscape of the “new” province of Flevoland (see pp326–33).





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INTRODUCING THE NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS  267



Common
polypody
occurs in
juniper brush
and in
woodlands
on poor
sandy soil.


Bracken fern grows in sparse
Boletus edulis is a delicious woodland on lime and nutrient-
edible mushroom. Picking it, poor sand and loamy ground,
however, is no longer allowed. and on dried peat moors.




Mosses thrive in humid
environments such as
forest floors. Shady areas
with acidic soil are ideal
for sphagnum moss.
The
cranberry
grows in
sphagnum
moss on
peat moors
and in fens.
Forests
One of the best-known and largest forest areas in the
Netherlands is at Hoge Veluwe in the province of Gelderland Common
(see pp334–49), where a variety of animals, such as wild boar sundew, an
insect-eating
and red deer, are to be found.
plant, grows
on heathland
and in the
fenland of
Groningen
and Drenthe.
Cross-
leaved
heath
thrives on
nutrient-
poor, dry,
sandy soil
and in the
troughs of
dunes.

Heather occurs
mainly in sand
Heathland and peat bogs,
typically
The northeastern Netherlands abounds with poor in
delightful heathland. Some of the most picturesque nutrients.
heathland can be found at Drenthe (see pp306–15);
herds of sheep still graze in the region of Ellertsveld.





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NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS  269

THE WEST FRISIAN

ISLANDS


Perhaps the least known part of the Netherlands despite
their natural beauty, the West Frisian Islands form a
barrier protecting the north of the country from the
turbulent waters of the North Sea. Comprising five
main islands and a few sandbanks, they are among
Europe’s last areas of wilderness.

The West Frisian Islands are the remaining still stand. Later, the islands prospered from
fragments of an ancient sandbank that links with the Dutch East India Company
once stretched from Cap Gris Nez in France and, in the 19th century, from whaling.
to Esbjerg in Denmark, a remnant of the Vlieland and Ameland are quieter islands,
last Ice Age. Since Roman times the sea has good for bird-watching. Schiermonnikoog
been eroding this sandbank, creating the is the most isolated, with rare plant life.
shallow Waddenzee behind and washing Nowadays the islands, reached by ferries
away much of the peat soil that lay beyond from the mainland, have much to offer
the dunes. The islands of Griend and the visitor in search of peace and quiet,
Rottumeroog were threatened to such with nature rambles over dunes and salt
an extent that they were abandoned. marsh, and seal- and bird-watching,
Rottumerplatt, too, is uninhabited. especially in summer. The islands’ quaint
Monks established the first settlements museums are strong on ecology and
as far back as the 8th century; islanders conser vation. The best way to get around
made a living from farming, fishing is by bicycle, and visitors will find a wide
and collecting shellfish. On Texel and range of hotels and guesthouses, excellent
Terschelling, the two largest islands, seafood restaurants, and some of the best
churches dating from the 15th century sunsets anywhere.


























Former captain’s house (commandeurhuisje) on Ameland
Traditional cargo ships sail down the Waddenzee at dusk



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270  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring the West Frisian Islands

The history of the West Frisian Islands (Waddeneilanden) has
been shaped by the wind and the sea. It was not until the 17th
century that the larger islands were stabilized by dykes. Den
Burg on Texel, the largest village on the islands, is a historic
fortification with a pleasant old centre. Nearby is Hoge Berg,
with its characteristic peat walls; in the west, the distinctive
tower of Den Hoorn can be seen. To the north is the unique
natural area of De Slufter. The crown of the Frisian Islands,
Vlieland, has the prettiest village of the islands. Terschelling,
Ameland and Schiermonnikoog are typical Frisian islands, with
wide beaches, partly forested dunes, villages and polders or
mud flats on the Waddenzee side. Shrimp fishermen sorting their catch


Sights at a Glance
1 Noorderhaaks 9 Ameland
2 Den Burg 0 Schiermonnikoog
3 De Koog q Rottumerplaat
4 De Slufter w Rottumeroog ROTTUMERPLAAT
5 Den Hoorn ROTTUMEROOG
6 Vlieland SCHIERMONNIKOOG
7 Griend
8 Terschelling AMELAND Schiermonnikoog
Hollum Nes Buren
Bird-watching in the Mookbai, Texel TERSCHELLING Oosterend W a d d e n z e e Lauwersoog
Hoorn Holwerd
West Midsland


Oost-Vlieland
Richel
GRIEND
VLIELAND
n z e e
De Cocksdorp Harlingen
e
DE SLUFTER d
d
Te x e l W a
DE KOOG
Oosterend
DEN BURG
Oudeschild
DEN HOORN


NOORDER- Den Helder
HAAKS



The Koegelwieck seacat (West Terschelling)
For map symbols see back flap


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THE WEST FRISIAN ISLANDS  271

Getting Around
The West Frisian Islands are reached by ferries from
the mainland. Texel is served by TESO (tel. 0222-
369600). Foot passengers can take a bus to De Koog
or De Cocksdorp via Den Burg, or order a taxi-bus
when buying their ticket. Vlieland is served by
Rederij Doeksen (tel. 0900-3635736); cars not
permitted. On arrival, a bus takes passengers to
Posthuis, where there are taxis. Terschelling is served
by Rederij Doeksen (0900-3635736); reservations
recommended for cars. There is a bus service on the
island, and taxis are available on arrival. Ameland is
served by Rederij Wagenborg (tel. 085-4011008);
reservations recommended. There are bus services
to all villages. Schiermonnikoog is served by Rederij
Wagenborg (tel. 085-4011008); foot passengers only.
Bus service and taxi-buses connect the dock and
village. Bicycles can be hired easily.

De Wadden – the mud flats are ideal for beach walks

ROTTUMERPLAAT
ROTTUMEROOG
SCHIERMONNIKOOG
Schiermonnikoog
AMELAND
Hollum Nes Buren
W a d d e n z e e
TERSCHELLING Oosterend Lauwersoog
Hoorn Holwerd
West Midsland


Oost-Vlieland
Richel
GRIEND 0 kilometres 10
VLIELAND 0 miles 10
n z e e Rescued seals being returned to the wild by members
De Cocksdorp Harlingen of EcoMare, Texel (see p427)
e
DE SLUFTER d
d
Te x e l W a
DE KOOG
Oosterend Key
Motorway
DEN BURG
Main road
Oudeschild
DEN HOORN Minor road
Scenic route
Minor railway
NOORDER- Den Helder
HAAKS


The splendid coastline of Vlieland
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp398–9 and p412


270-271_EW_Netherlands.indd 271 16/01/17 12:05 pm

272  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS


Birds of the Waddenzee

The extensive wetlands of the Waddenzee are an
important area for breeding and migratory birds. The
North Sea coasts of the islands are sandy, with little
animal life; the Waddenzee coasts of the islands,
however, consist of fine sand and clay which are rich
in minerals and nutrients. The innumerable worms, Curlew
This is the largest European
molluscs and crustaceans that live here are an ideal wading bird and is easily
source of food for a huge variety of ducks, seagulls and recognizable by its long,
wading birds. At the peak of the migratory season curved beak.
(August), the number of birds here runs into millions.


Bird-watching
Hide
There are many
hides for bird-
watchers on the
mud flats of the
Waddenzee,
allowing the birds
to be observed
without being
disturbed.


Bird Catchers
Bird catchers, whose interests in the Netherlands have
gone far beyond mere hunting, have become an
important pressure group for the protection of birds
and the natural environment. Their organization is
Vogelbescherming Nederland, based in Zeist.
Beak Shapes
People are often surprised at the many varieties of birds that feed on the mud flats. The different
species, however, have managed to avoid competing with one another. The various shapes and
lengths of their beaks are suitable for the assorted types of food that can be found in the water and
in the sand. Ducks get their food from the surface or dive for it, whereas wading birds get their food
from underground – what prey at which depth underground depends on the shape of the beak.
Other birds catch fish (spoonbills, cormorants or terns), shellfish (eider ducks) or even other seabirds
(the white-tailed eagle), or steal their food from other birds.
The curlew, with
The black-tailed
The silver The godwit feeds on its curved sharp
The ringed plover oystercatcher beak, can reach
plover feeds The lapwing catches pulls shellfish worms living invertebrates
from the feeds on small out of the sand. underground. living deep in
surface. small crabs in sea-worms. the sand.
the mud.














272-273_EW_Netherlands.indd 272 16/01/17 12:05 pm

THE WEST FRISIAN ISLANDS  273




Arctic Tern
This extremely rare bird,
which breeds in the West
Frisian Islands, spends
the winter in the
Antarctic. This gives Sandwich Tern
it the longest This bird has its largest
migratory path breeding colony in Oystercatcher
of all birds. Holland on Griend. Its The oystercatcher is
dwindling numbers characteristic of the
Waddenzee. It forages for
means it requires careful cockles and mussels.
protection.
Bird Species
The wealth of bird species – including diving
birds, petrels, cormorants, spoonbills, ducks,
birds of prey, waders, scavengers, seagulls,
terns, razorbills and songbirds – that occur in
the Waddenzee is a good reason to ensure
that the area is carefully protected. For many
of the birds, these are the only breeding
grounds in the Netherlands, as they are the
only wetlands remaining in the Netherlands.
Various parts are closed to visitors, and it is
important to observe the regulations in
order to help preserve the bird population.


Avocet
This
magnificent
wading bird
has an upward-
curving bill and
black and
white plumage.
Large numbers of
oystercatchers can be seen
both in winter and in summer.




Black-Tailed Godwit
This wading bird, with fiery
red-brown plumage, is a Eider Duck
bird of passage but spends Ringed Plover The eider duck has breeding
the winters and summers This is an active bird that rarely colonies on Texel, Vlieland and
in the Waddenzee. breeds here but passes Terschelling. The male is far more
through in large numbers. impressive in appearance than
the brown-coloured female.


Red Knot
This bird of passage
Herring Gull stops over sometimes
The herring gull is in summer and
just one of the many sometimes in winter.
varieties of gull that occur here. It is a robust bird,
At more than half a metre (1.5 ft) one that is always
long, it is an impressive bird. on the move.





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274  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS


The Waddenzee

The Waddenzee is a tidal area whose sand or mud
flats (wadden) are mainly exposed at low tide and
disappear at high tide. Together with the West Frisian
Islands, the Waddenzee forms the last extensive wild
part of Holland. The entire area has an extremely
rich ecosystem because of the large sources of
nourishment. It is a feeding and breeding ground
for many species of birds. Two species of seal, 30
species of fish, shrimps and crabs live in the
Waddenzee or come here to breed. Cockles (Cardium edule), which
form the diet for many bird
species, are intensively harvested
using mechanical methods. The
catch is exported.
The VVVs (tourist
offices) on the West
Frisian Islands offer all
kinds of sailing trips
around the islands,
including romantic
luxury cruises on a
three-master. Rederij
Vooruit (tel. 0515-
531485) arranges
sailing trips on
local boats.

Sea Lavender
(Limonium vulgare),
along with sea purslane
and sea aster, grows in
the higher parts of the
salt marshes. Fields of
blue-violet sea lavender
flowers make a very
pretty sight.

Exposed Sections of the Mud Flats
Much of the Waddenzee mud flats is exposed
during low tide. This leaves places like the marina,
pictured below, high and dry. Mooring places that
are inaccessible at low tide are increasingly being
dredged as marinas.













Low tide High tide





274-275_EW_Netherlands.indd 274 16/01/17 12:05 pm

THE WEST FRISIAN ISLANDS  275


Flora in the Waddenzee Lavender (Salicornia
Because of the diversity of the europaea) is one of the first
plants to colonize the mud
Waddenzee landscape, with its flats and the low-lying parts
changing environment (salt water of the salt marshes. When
and fresh water, lime-rich soil and the land has silted up
lime-poor soil, wet land and dry land, completely, the salt marsh
clay ground and sandy ground), grass establishes itself.
almost 900 plant species grow here.
Many of them grow on the island-side
of the old dunes in the dune valleys.
Amongst the flowers to be found
here are autumn gentian and
creeping willow, as well as grasses
and weeds such as black bog-rush,
fragrant orchid and grass of Parnassus.
Lavender is among the plants which
grow on the higher ground.



Cracks in the dried silt provide a good foothold
for lavender, as well as for other plants.

Threats to the Waddenzee
According to the Dutch oil company NAM,
there are between 70 and 170 billion cubic
metres (2,500 and 6,000 billion cubic feet)
of natural gas beneath the Waddenzee. The
value of this gas runs into many billions of
euros. The Waddenzee Society is completely
opposed to any gas drilling in the Waddenzee
on several grounds: first, because there is no
social need for it and second, because the
environmental effects of drilling – in
particular, the consequences the falling
ground level would have on life in the
Waddenzee – have not been properly
investigated. For the time being, therefore,
drilling on the Waddenzee is banned,
pending further environmental impact
studies. But the Waddenzee is also threatened
by the harvesting of mussels and cockles.
Since 1992, the Dutch government has scaled
this back, and is considering closing the area
to the shellfish industry.
Wadlopen (walking the Mud Flats)
A walk on the Waddenzee takes you through salt
marshes and past the wantij, a place below an
island where two tidal flows meet. Since the
mid-1970s, walking on the mud flats has been a
popular hobby. There are now a number of major
mud-flat walking societies, including Dijkstra’s
Wadlooptochten (Pieterburen, tel. 0595-528345);
Lammert Kwant (Ezinge, tel. 050-5792414);
Stichting Uithuizer Wad (only for Rottumeroog; tel.
0511-522271), Stichting Wadloopcentrum Friesland
(Holwerd, tel. 0519-242100) and Stichting
Wadloopcentrum Pieterburen (tel. 0595-528300). Cockle harvesting







274-275_EW_Netherlands.indd 275 16/01/17 12:05 pm

276  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS


E Oudheidkamer
Kogerstraat 1, Den Burg.
Tel 0222-313135. Open 1 Apr–31 Oct:
11am–5pm Mon–Fri, 2–4pm Sat.
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Whitsun, 25, 26 &
31 Dec, public hols. &








Noorderhaaks, above sea level at high tide for some decades now
1 Noorderhaaks Kogerstraat runs the length
of the Binnenburg. Located Beachcomber on Texel, the most populated
Road Map B2. * none. n Emmalaan
66, Den Burg (0222-314741). here is the Oudheidkamer, of the Frisian Islands
an antiquities museum set up
Noorderhaaks, also known as in a picturesque 16th-century
Razende Bol (raging ball), is a building, which used to be a 3 De Koog
fairly bleak sandbank west of doss-house. Today it contains Road Map B2. * 1300. g @
Den Helder, 2.5 km (1.5 miles) period rooms, a display of n Emmalaan 66, Den Burg
offshore. The sea currents cause artifacts and works of art (0222–314741). ( Jul–Aug: Tue.
the island to shift eastwards in the attic, and a herb garden.
towards Texel, after which Along and around the town In 1900, the former fishing
another “raging ball” appears at wall are several interesting settlement of De Koog consisted
the same point off Den Helder. shopping streets, such as the of a church (built in 1415) and
The Dutch air force occasionally Weverstraat. A number of a few houses and farms. The first
uses the island for target practice, excellent restaurants are to be tourist facility was the Badhotel,
but it is not off-limits for visitors. found on the Warmoesstraat. later the Hotel Prinses Juliana,
Rowing and swimming here with a garden overlooking
are risky because of the powerful Environs the sea. Today, De Koog has
currents. Adventure-seekers South of Den Burg is a sloping accommodation for 20,000
regularly visit Noorderhaaks landscape with the 15 m (50 ft) visitors in hotels, pensions and
by boat or by helicopter, Hoge Berg (high mountain), camp sites. The centre of De
unable to resist this piece of which offers a great view of the Koog is the Dorpsstraat,
total wilderness, where mirages island. For a good walk, follow which has cafés, snack bars
are common. the Skille paadje from the tomb and discos. De Koog’s attractions
of the Georgiers (resistance for visitors are the Calluna
fighters who died fighting the waterpark and EcoMare,
2 Den Burg Germans in 1945) to the fishing an information centre for
village of Oudeschild, past the the Waddenzee and the
Road Map B2. * 6,000. g @
n Emmalaan 66 (0222-314741). peat walls and sheep pens. North Sea (see p427).
( Mon am; Jul–Aug: Wed.
Den Burg is the main town of
Texel and situated right in its
centre. Around 1300, the village
was fortified by a circular
rampart with a moat, which are
now marked by the Burgwal
and Parkstraat Streets. A sheep
market was once held in April
and May at the Groeneplats,
Den Burg’s main square, with the
present-day town hall. Today, a
sheep day is held on the first
Monday of September. Further
on, by the Binnenburg, or inner
castle, stands the 15th-century
Late Gothic Hervormde kerk
(Protestant church). The The Nederlands-Hervormde church in Den Burg (1481)
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp398–9 and p412


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.4)
Date 25th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE WEST FRISIAN ISLANDS  277

4 De Slufter
Road Map B2. * none. g @
Open all year, northern part closed
1 Mar–1 Sep. n Emmalaan 66, Den
Burg (0222-314741).
The distinctive natural area of
De Slufter, consisting of salt
marshes covering 450 ha
(1,100 acres), is covered with
salt-loving plants such as sea
thrift and sea lavender, and is
an important breeding and
feeding ground for many
different bird species. De Slufter,
and the neighbouring De Muy,
where spoonbills breed, are
magnificent rambling areas.

5 Den Hoorn
Road Map B2. * 450. g @
n Emmalaan 66, Den Burg (0222-
314741). ( Jul–Aug: Thu.
Like Den Burg, Den Hoorn
stands on boulder clay. It has a
distinctive Hervormde kerk
(Protestant church) with a Salt-loving plants thriving at the water’s edge, De Slufter
pointed steeple and church-
yard dating from 1425. This Unlike the other islands, Vlieland 19th-century paintings. The
exquisitely restored village has consists only of dunes, covered houses are separated by alleys
been given protected status. with a purple haze of heather, known as “gloppen”. There is no
marram grass and sea buckthorn. room for cars here, not even for
In the east, the woods planted those of the islanders.
6 Vlieland just after 1900 provide a bit of The best way to explore
variety in the landscape. Vlieland is by bicycle; the island
Road Map C1. * 1,000. g
n Havenweg 10, Oost-Vlieland In the south is the only village, can be covered in one day. From
(0562-451111). Oost-Vlieland, where the boat Oost-Vlieland, you can cycle
from Harlingen docks. Many old west wards along tracks through
Vlieland is the smallest of the buildings line the main street. the dunes or along the Wadde-
Waddenzee Islands. In some One of them, the Tromp’s Huys nzee shoreline to the Posthuys
places, less than one kilometre (1576), used to belong to the (post house), where in the 17th
(half a mile) separates the Amsterdam Admiralty. Today it century the overseas mail was
Waddenzee and the North Sea. houses a museum with brought from Amsterdam to be
loaded onto ships waiting to sail.
Further westwards is de Vliehors,
an area of natural interest which
can be explored if no military
exercises are taking place here.
Beware of get ting stuck in the
soft drifting sand. This is also
where the wealthy village of
West-Vlieland once stood. It was
consumed by the waves after it
was abandoned in 1736.
E Tromp’s Huys
Dorpsstraat 99, Oost-Vlieland.
Tel 0562-451600. Open school hols:
10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Sat, 2–4pm
Sun; outside school hols: 2–5pm Tue–
Thu, 10am–1pm Fri, 2–5pm Sat.
The village hall in Oost-Vlieland Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Pentecost. &




276-277_EW_Netherlands.indd 277 16/01/17 12:05 pm

278  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS


olden days cattle with intriguing names such as
were let out to graze Hee, Horp and Kaart, which date
everywhere (“oerol”). back to when the Frisians
This is where the settled on the islands. The
Oerol Festival, held hamlet with the kerkhof van
each year in June, Striep cemetery is where the
gets its name. first church on the island was
In Formerum, West, built, in the 10th century. Its
and Hoorn, the dunes outline is still visible. Further
have been planted eastwards is Hoorn, with
with coniferous and 13th-century Gothic-
deciduous woods. In Romanesque St Janskerk
the south are polders, standing on the site of the
and beyond the dykes original church.
are the salt marshes.
There is a nature E Museum ‘t Behouden Huys
reserve at either end Commandeurstraat 32, West-
of the island: the Terschelling. Tel 0562-442389.
Noordvaarder in the Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Fri,
west, and the 1–5pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Mar: 1–5pm
Boschplaat in the Wed, Sat & Sun.&
east. If you happen to E Centrum voor Natuur
be sailing over from en Landschap
The Oerol Festival on Terschelling Harlingen at low tide Burg. Reedekerstraat 11, West-
on a sunny day, you Terschelling. Tel 0562-442390.
7 Griend may see seals basking in the Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm daily;
sun on the de Richel and Jacobs Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm Tue, Sat &
Road Map C1. * none. 8 very Ruggen sandbanks. Sun. & 7
limited. n Vereniging Natuur-
monumenten (035-6559933). West is a real mud-flat village,
with old houses and a famous
Half-way through the boat trip lighthouse, the Brandaris, 9 Ameland
from Harlingen to Terschelling dating from 1594. It is closed to Road Map C/D1. * 3,500. g @
or Vlieland, one will come visitors, but the same view can n Bureweg 2, Nes (0519-546546).
across Griend. The island be enjoyed from the high dune ∑ vvvameland.nl
was abandoned by its known as the Seinpaalduin
inhabitants after the behind the village. Het The dunes in the north of this
St Lucia’s flood of 1287. Behouden Huys is a local island are dry, with the
For centuries it seemed history museum dedicated exception of Het Oerd, a wet
about to disappear to famous islanders such as valley in the east which is a
beneath the Willem Barentsz; there is bird reserve. The region is best
waves. In 1988, the also the educational explored by bicycle; there is
Natuurmonumenten trust, Centrum voor Natuur en a cycle track to a scenic spot
which has leased Griend Landschap, where you can on a 24-m (79-ft) dune. In the
since 1916, had a dam learn about the ecology mud flats in the south there
built to prevent further Tombstone of the mud flats. are four villages. The largest
erosion. At high tide, the from Striep The two largest villages of these is Nes, where the
highest part of the island is in the west are Midsland boat from Holwerd calls.
just 1 m (3 ft) above the water. and Hoorn. Midsland is Commandeurshuizen
Access to Griend is forbidden, surrounded by small hamlets (commodores’ houses)
save for a handful of bird
wardens and biology stu dents.
This is Holland’s largest breed-
ing ground for great tern.

8 Terschelling
Road Map C1. * 4,900. g @
n Willem Barentszkade 19a, West-
Terschelling (0562-443000).
Terschelling is the second-
largest of the West Frisian
Islands. The north of the island
consists of dunes, where in the Het Oerd – the edge of the mud flats on Ameland
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp398–9 and p412


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Date 25th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE WEST FRISIAN ISLANDS  279





















A horse-drawn lifeboat, the pride of Ameland
in the old centre recall the days Balg, Kobbeduinen and the salt metres in height and an
when many islanders made marshes) in particular make for impressive salt marsh are its
their living from whaling. wonderful walking areas, with characteristic features. The
If you want to see the real their varied flora (including many island also belongs to the
Ameland, you must visit Hollum. orchids) and bird life. No cars at seals and birds.
The Zuiderlaan and Oosterlaan all are allowed on the island.
are steeped in the atmosphere
of past times. At the southern w Rottumeroog
end of the village is the church, q Rottumerplaat Road Map D1. * none. 8 very
surrounded by an oval cemetery Road Map D1. * none. limited. n Waddenkust Noord-
with tombstones where the n Waddenkust Noord-Groningen, Groningen, Uithuizen (0595-434051).
deeply pious inscriptions are Uithuizen (0595-434051).
overgrown with lichen. This most eastern of the West
Beyond Hollum lies the Nature has been left to her Frisian Islands is due to disappear
Reddingsmuseum Abraham own devices with the 900 ha into the mouth of the Ems soon.
Fock, a museum dedicated to (2,225 acre) uninhabited island Since 1991 it has been left in the
life-saving, where the pride of of Rottumerplaat. This protected hands of nature. Attempts over
Ameland, a lifeboat launched by nature reserve is jointly many years to prevent it from
horses, is kept operational. managed by the Ministry of drifting eastwards were
Agriculture, Waterways and unsuccessful. In 1998, the
E Reddingsmuseum Planning, and the Friends of northern dunes collapsed, after
Abraham Fock Rottumeroog and Rottumerplaat which the last traces of human
Oranjeweg 18, Hollum. Tel 0519 Society (SVRR). Outsiders are settlement were removed by the
542737. Open Apr–Nov: 10am–5pm rarely admitted to the island. state forestry commission. The
Mon–Fri, 1:30–5pm Sat & Sun. & 7 This has had a good effect on island is now less than 300 ha
Rottumeroog as well as on (740 acres) in size and shrinks
Rottumerplaat, which has been with each storm. Walkers are
0 Schiermonnikoog expanding quickly. Dunes many prohibited in the area.
Road Map D1. * 900. g @
n Reeweg 5, Schiermonnikoog
(0519-531233).
Schiermonnikoog, or Lytje Pole
(small land), was a farm
belonging to Cistercian monks
during the Middle Ages. The
village of Schiermonnikoog,
which is named after them, has
many exquis itely restored
houses. The island as a whole is
a national park and under the
protection of Natuurmonumenten.
The beach of Schier is one
of the widest in Europe. The
eastern side of the island (Het The uninhabited island of Rottumerplaat, with its high dunes



278-279_EW_Netherlands.indd 279 16/01/17 12:05 pm

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NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS  281

GRONINGEN


The Netherland’s northernmost province is distinguished
by its rich cultural history and unusual landscape, where
you often see terps or small areas of elevated land.
To the north and west it is bounded by the shallow
Waddenzee, and to the east by the Ems river estuary
and the border with Germany.

The terps originated centuries ago, when Bourtange, which is right on the border
the inhabitants of this region needed to with Germany. Conservation areas
protect themselves from high water levels. abound. Close to Lauwersoog, where you
The elevated land is sometimes crowned can catch a ferry to Schiermonnikoog,
by a solitary Romanesque church, visible one of the West Frisian Islands (see p279),
for miles across the fens. Elsewhere in the a vast nature reserve has been estab­
province you will see straight roads and lished. Nearby Pieterburen has a
canals, often evidence of reclaimed land. seal sanctuary.
The region grew rich during the Middle Groningen, the provincial capital, is
Ages from agriculture and peat extraction, proud of its glorious past and boasts a
and the medieval port of Appingedam, wealth of world­class museums, historic
nowadays a little town inland from the buildings and other attractions. A
port of Delfzijl, was once a member of the number of Dutch corporations have their
powerful Hanseatic League. headquarters in this thriving university
Groningen province is also noted for its city, and a further boost to the economy
windmills, castles and moated manor arrived in the 1960s after the discovery in
houses and, in the east, for its restored nearby Slochteren of some of the world’s
fortified towns, such as picturesque largest natural gas deposits.





























Hay bales in Westerwolde, near the old fortified town of Bourtange
Fair by the Martinitoren in Groningen, Netherlands



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282  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring Groningen

Some of the country’s most attractive and historically interesting
castles, or borgs, are in the Groningen region: the medieval
Fraeylemaborg in Slochteren, Menkemaborg in Uithuizen and
the charming Verhildersum in Leens. The natural area around the
Lauwersmeer is particularly suitable for rambling. Not far from here,
in Pieterburen, is a famous refuge for seals. Ter Apel, which is on Wensum, one of the prettiest villages
the province’s eastern boundary, is a magnificent in Groningen
medieval monastery. Groningen itself (see pp284–9)
has much to offer, including the peaceful Wa d d e n z e e Eemshaven
Prinsenhof, with its beautiful gardens, and the Roodeschool
ultra-modern Groninger Museum (see
pp288–9), which houses collections that LAUWERSOOG PIETERBUREN UITHUIZEN E e m s
range from archaeology to oriental Warffum
porcelain to modern art. Spijk
Wehe den Hoorn
Leens
Lauwersmeer
ZOUTKAMP Loppersum
Delfzijl
Winsum
Reitdiep APPINGEDAM Termunten
Eemskanaal
Bedum
Ten Boer Dollar d
Grijpskerk
Nieuwolda
Van Starkenborghkanaal Zuidhorn Zuidwolde GRONINGEN Siddeburen
The Lauwersmeer nature reserve, created through the
draining of the Lauwerszee
GRONINGEN FRAEYLEMABORG Midwolda
GROOTEGAST SLOCHTEREN Nieuweschans
Getting Around Haren Scheemda
Groningen can be reached from the south Paterswoldse
along the A28 motorway; the A7 crosses LEEK Meer Hoogezand-Sappemeer Heiligerlee
the province from Friesland in the west Marum WINSCHOTEN
to Germany in the east. The best way to Zuidlaardermeer
see the town of Groningen is on foot. Bellingwolde
From Groningen there are rail links to VEENDAM OUDE PEKELA
Roodeschool in the north, Delfzijl in the
northeast and to Nieuweschans in the Wildervank
east. Most of the countryside is accessible NIEUWE PEKELA
by regional (interlokal) or local (buurt)
buses. The Groningen region is well suited
to cycling and rambling, especially the Westerwolde
area around the Lauwersmeer, the Onstwedde Vlagtwedde
mud-flat region (waddengebied) and Stadskanaal
Westerwolde, in the south.
Stadskanaal BOURTANGE
Sights at a Glance
1 Groningen pp284–9 0 Fraeylemaborg
2 Grootegast q Winschoten Musselkanaal
3 Leek w Veendam
4 Zoutkamp e Bourtange
5 Lauwersoog r Oude and Nieuwe Pekela
6 Pieterburen t Ter Apel TER APEL
7 Uithuizen
8 Appingedam
9 Slochteren Recreation possibilities on the Paterswoldse Meer,
south of Groningen
For map symbols see back flap


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Explorer template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.4)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GRONINGEN  283






0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5


Wa d d e n z e e Eemshaven The canalside kitchens of Appingedam


Roodeschool
LAUWERSOOG UITHUIZEN
PIETERBUREN Warffum E e m s
Spijk
Wehe den Hoorn
Leens
Lauwersmeer
ZOUTKAMP Loppersum
Delfzijl
Winsum
Reitdiep APPINGEDAM Termunten
Eemskanaal
Bedum Farmhouse in Beerta, east Groningen
Ten Boer Dollar d
Grijpskerk
Nieuwolda
Van Starkenborghkanaal Zuidhorn Zuidwolde GRONINGEN Siddeburen

GRONINGEN FRAEYLEMABORG Midwolda
GROOTEGAST SLOCHTEREN
Nieuweschans
Haren Scheemda
Paterswoldse
LEEK Meer
Hoogezand-Sappemeer Heiligerlee
Marum WINSCHOTEN
Zuidlaardermeer
Bellingwolde
VEENDAM OUDE PEKELA
Wildervank NIEUWE PEKELA


Westerwolde
Onstwedde
Vlagtwedde
Stadskanaal
Key Stadskanaal BOURTANGE
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Musselkanaal
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
International border TER APEL




For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and pp412–13


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284  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS

1 Street-by-Street: Groningen

The town of Groningen has for centuries been the cultural
and historical capital of the province. Its glory was at its
height in the 15th century, when the town was freed from
the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Utrecht and was able to
extend its influence into the present-day province of T U R F S I N G E L
Friesland. In 1614, the Groninger Academie was founded,
which was the precursor of the Rijksuniversiteit. Thus, in
addition to being a centre of trade and government, the
town also became an academic centre. TURFSTR AAT
S
I N
. Prinsenhof
In the gardens of the T W A
Prinsenhof, where in L
1568 the first Bishop of B
Groningen, and later the U R
stadholder, resided, stands G
a magnificent sundial S
T
from 1730. The garden R .
is laid out as it was in the
18th century.


. Martinitoren M A R T I N I K E R K H O F
The 97-m (318-ft) Martinitoren
(St Martin tower) dating from
1496 is called The Old Grey by
the locals because of the colour
of the Bentheim sandstone.








Stadhuis G R O T E M A R K T
The Stadhuis on
the Grote Markt is
a monumental Neo-
Classical building,
The Martinikerk (St Martin’s Church) dates back completed in 1810.
to the 13th century, though only parts of the
original basilica are preserved. The Romanesque
church was extensively remodelled in Gothic
style in the 1400s.




Goudkantoor
This 1635 Renaissance
building on the Waagplein
was known as the
“Goudkantoor” (gold
depository) in the
19th century, when it
functioned as a treasury.
It now houses an inn.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and pp412–13


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

GRONINGEN  285


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map D1. * 177,000.
n Grote Markt 25 (050-
3139741). ( Tue–Sat.
_ Flower fair: Good Friday;
Bevrijdingsfestival (Liberation
festival): 5 May; funfairs: May;
Groningen holiday: 28 Aug.
Transport
£ Stationsplein.
@ Stationsplein.



Key
Recommended route
S I N T J A N S S T R A AT
S I N G E L S T R A AT




K
E
R
O
M A R T I N I K H F P O P K E N S T R A A T S C H O O L S T R A A T





P O E L E S T R A A T



Ome Loeks’ horse, a statue by Jan de
Baat in front of the train station,
G R O T E M A R K T
illustrates a famous local folksong, “Ome
Loeks’ horse is dead”. Pikeur “Loeks”
(Lucas) van Hemmen (1876–1955)
The Poelestraat is wanted to shoo away his horse and so
lined with cafés stabbed it with his pitchfork. The animal
and restaurants.
got an infection and later died.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100


. St Geertruidshofje
This inn on Peperstraat, founded in
1405 as a hostel for poor pilgrims, has
two courtyards. The first is bounded
by the convent church, refectory and
warden’s chambers; guest rooms
surround the second.




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286  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring Groningen

The city of Groningen has a number of interesting
buildings and museums, among them the Noordelijk
Scheepvaartmuseum (northern maritime museum)
which illustrates the history of navigation. The Groninger
Museum (see pp288–9) possesses an art collection of
international stature. A visit to one of the gardens of
Groningen will provide peace in the middle of the The distinctive Gasunie building, known locally as
bustling university city. the “monkey cliff”

R Martinikerk and octaves and 49 bells. The designed by the Alberts
Martinitoren Martinikerk (St Martin’s Church), and Van Huur architects on
Martinikerkhof 3. Tel 050-3111277. dating from the 13th century, the principles of “organic”
Open Easter–11 Nov: noon–5pm still retains traces of the original architecture, the inspiration of
Sat; Jun–Aug & two Sats in Sep: building: both the northern and which lies with natural forms.
noon–5pm Tue–Sat. 8 1:30pm. southern façades of the transept The “organic” nature of the
Martinitoren Grote Markt. Tel 050- and the ornamental brickwork building can be seen at every
3135713. Open Apr–Oct: 11am– 5pm of the windows and window turn, even in the specially
Mon–Sat; Nov–Mar: noon–4pm niches of the northern side are designed furniture. The locals’
Mon–Sat; Jul & Aug: 11am–4pm Sun. recognizably 13th century. nickname for the building is the
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
During the 15th century, when “apenrots” (monkey cliff).
The Grote Markt is the old city the city was at the height of its
centre. Many of the buildings development, the church was Y St Geertruidshofje
standing on the square were extended in Gothic style. The Peperstraat 22. Tel 050-3124082.
badly damaged by air raids choir, which features sumptuous Groningen has a number of
near the end of World War II. murals from 1530 illustrating pretty hofjes, or courtyards
When it was rebuilt, the market the life of Christ, had been surrounded by almshouses, often
was enlarged on the northern completed before 1425. The belonging to inns. They were
and eastern sides, and new central part of the church once charitable institutions
buildings of a modern became a hall-type church. whose aim was to help the poor.
character were added. East of the Grote Markt is the The finest of these is the complex
The famous Martinitoren Poelestraat, which on fine days of the 13th-century Heilige
(St Martin tower) was also comes to life with outdoor cafés Geestgasthuis, or Pelstergasthuis
damaged but still standing, and restaurants. (in the Pelsterstraat), and St
and it was possible to rebuild Geertruidshofje (see p285),
it. The carillon of d’Olle Grieze P Gebouw van de Gasunie whose Pepergasthuis inn was
(“The Old Grey”), whose bells Concourslaan 17. Tel 050-5219111. established in 1405. It later
were cast by the Hemony Closed to the public. became a senior citizens’ home.
brothers, has since been The main office of the Dutch The pump in the courtyard
enlarged and now has four Gasunie (gas board) was dates from 1829.





















The Poelestraat: a favourite haunt for the students of Groningen
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and pp412–13


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GRONINGEN  287


E Noordelijk
Scheepvaartmuseum
Brugstraat 24–26. Tel 050-3122202.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 1–5pm
Sun & hols. Closed public hols. &
This maritime museum,
arranged over two restored
medieval houses, deals with
the history of navigation in the
northern provinces from 1650
to the present. Exhibits are
arranged in chronological
order, from the Utrecht ships,
Hanseatic cogs, West Indies The magnificent Prinsenhof, formerly the stadholder’s residence
merchantmen, peat barges
and Baltic merchant ships to oasis in the midst of the busy several different greenhouses
Groningen coasters from the city. Its highlights include a dedicated to a wide array of
20th century. A number of herb garden and a rose garden. climatic zones. There is a tropical
historical workshops, such as a There is also a flowerbed that rainforest with a great variety of
carpenter’s shop and a smithy, is arranged into two coats of exotic flowers. A subtropical
are held in the attic of arms, one with the letter hothouse numbers orange trees
the museum. The W (for William Frederick, among its plants. The various
museum also has the stadholder of climatic areas continue with a
an excellent Friesland), the other desert section. Here, gigantic
programme of with a letter A (for cacti are showcased. Another
temporary Albertine Agnes, greenhouse featuring a mon-
exhibitions, Decorative element from the William’s wife). soon climate contains unusual
featuring all Provinciehuis of Groningen At the side of the carnivorous plants. In the
things marine. entrance is a fine tropical culture greenhouse,
sundial (see p284) which dates you can admire a traditional
Y Prinsenhof and back to 1730. The course of Indonesian sawah (ricefield).
Prinsen hoftuin the old city walls of Groningen The Chinese garden (“Het
Martinikerkhof 23. Tel 050-3176555. is still clearly discernible in verborgen rijk van Ming”, or “The
Open 9am–noon daily. the Prinsenhoftuin. hidden Ming Empire”) is well
The Prinsenhof originally worth a visit. It is a faithful recon-
housed the monastic order of E Hortus Haren struction of a real garden owned
the Broeders des Gemenen Kerklaan 34, Haren. Tel 050-5370053. by a 16th-century high-ranking
Levens. It later became the Open 9:30am–5pm daily. Chinese official of the Ming
seat of the first Bishop of Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 - 0 Dynasty (1368–1644). It features
Groningen, Johann Knijff, who Immediately south of the original Chinese pagodas, which
had the entire complex city is the fashionable town have been painstakingly restored
converted into a magnificent of Haren, where an extensive by Chinese craftsmen into fine
bishop’s palace. Until late into park, Hortus Haren, is situ ated. pavilions and then beautifully
the 18th century, the building The park was set up in 1642 decorated with carvings of lions
served as the residence of the by Henricus Munting. Its 20 ha and dragons. Het verborgen rijk
stadholder. The Prinsenhoftuin (50 acres) include a large hot- van Ming also has a waterfall and
(Prinsenhof Gardens) is truly an house complex comprising a tea house where visitors can
enjoy Chinese refreshments.
Another interesting theme
garden is the Ogham Gardens,
a Celtic garden whose main
attractions is the Horoscope of
Trees, consisting of an earth-
and-stone circular wall, which
is a replica of the enclosures
the ancient Celts built to live
within. Inside the circle is a
labyrinth representing life; at its
centre is a small garden and the
Well of Wisdom.
In summer, a variety of exhib-
itions and events are held in the
grounds, attracting locals and
The fascinating Hortus Haren, with its innumerable attractions tourists alike.




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288  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS

Groninger Museum

Between the central station and the
inner city lies the Groninger Museum,
standing on an island in the 19th-
century Verbindingskanaal. Designed
by internationally renowned Italian
architect Alessandro Mendini and
opened in 1994, the museum showcases
archaeology and history, applied arts
(including a remarkable collection of
Chinese and Japanese porcelain), early . Spiral Staircase
art and cutting-edge modern art. The spiral staircase, which visitors have to
descend to see the exhibits, is the museum’s
main meeting point and a work of art in itself.





















Curtains
The applied arts section,
which includes oriental
porcelain, is divided by
winding curtains.




The museum shop
sells reproductions of
the exhibits and books
about the artists who
are represented in
the museum.

KEY
1 The museum café features is also a direct connection with 5 This wing of the museum
furniture by various designers the station and the town centre. was designed by Wolfgang Prix
and was set up as an addition 3 Temporary exhibitions and Helmut Swiczinsky.
to the museum collection. 6 A large concrete staircase
4 The Mendini Pavilion is easily in the spectacular Mendini
2 A cycle and pedestrian distinguished by its apparent Pavilion leads to the upper
bridge connects the museum haphazardness and chaos, and is a pavilion, where some of the
with the station square. There good example of deconstructivism. collection of art is on display.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and pp412–13



288-289_EW_Netherlands.indd 288 16/01/17 12:06 pm

GRONINGEN  289


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Museumeiland 1.
Tel 050-3666555.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
(also Jul & Aug: 1–5pm Mon).
Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 5 May, 25 Dec.
& - Open 9:30am–4:30pm
Tue–Sun. Closed same as above.


Rembrandt
This ink drawing of Saskia in Bed by Rembrandt
can sometimes be seen in the Mendini Pavilion.
. De Ploeg
The Groningen art
collective De Ploeg has its
own pavilion. In addition
to works by the group, the
section also displays works
by other Expressionists
from northern Europe. The
picture Rotating Door of the
Post Office is by De Ploeg
painter HN Werkman.






























Museum Guide
Groninger Museum was designed by
Alessandro Mendini (born 1931). He based the
design around the collections of the museum,
which consisted of archaeology, applied arts
and early and modern pictorial arts. The focus
Bridge in the Coop of the building is the 30-m (98-ft)
Himmelb(l)au Pavilion tower in the middle.




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290  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS

2 Grootegast
Road Map D1. * 11,500. @ 33,
38, 39, 98, 101, 133. n Nienoord 20,
Leek (0594-512100). ( Fri.
The little town of Lutjegast,
close to Grootegast, is the
birthplace of the 17th-century
explorer Abel Tasman (see box).
The Abel Tasman kabinet
houses an interesting
exhibition about his life.
The collection includes old
sea charts and books.
E Abel Tasmankabinet
Kompasstraat 1. Tel 0594-613576.
Open 1:30–4:30pm Tue–Sat.

3 Leek
Road Map D2. * 18,000. @ 81, 85, The harbour of the delightful fishing village of Zoutkamp
88, 98, 306, 316. n Nienoord 20 4 Zoutkamp
(0594-512100). ( Thu. In 1846, the then owner,
Ferdinand Folef Kniphausen, Road Map: D1. * 1,200. @ 63, 65,
In the small town of Leek nicknamed “the mad squire”, 69, 136, 163, 165. n Reitdiepskade 11
stands the castle of Nienoord, burned all the family portraits (0595-401957).
built in approximately 1524 by in a drunken fit. Later, the
Wigbold van Ewsum. During orangery and part of the upper The small fishing village of
the 19th century, things at floor were destroyed by fire. Zoutkamp changed its character
the castle seemed to be In 1950, the municipality dramatically after the damming
taking a turn for the worse. bought the castle. Eight of the Lauwerszee in 1969. By the
years later, the Nationaal waterside (Reitdiepskade) there
Rijtuigmuseum, featuring are still a number of fishermen’s
horse-drawn vehicles, was cottages retaining the erstwhile
established here. It contains charm of the village.
a unique collection of royal
coaches, gigs, mail coaches
and hackney carriages. 5 Lauwersoog
E Nationaal Rijtuigmuseum Road Map D1. * 350. @ 50, 63, 163.
n Reitdiepskade 11, Zoutkamp
Nienoord 1. Tel 0594-512260.
Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm, (0595-401957).
Landgoed Nienoord Tue–Sun. Closed Mon. & 7 At Lauwersoog, from where the
ferry leaves for Schiermonnikoog
(see p279), is the Lauwersmeer,
Abel Tasman (1603–59) a 2,000-ha (4,940-acre) nature
Abel Janszoon Tasman was born in Lutjegast in 1603 but lived in reserve. When the Lauwers zee
Amsterdam from an early age. In 1633, as a navigating officer for the was drained, the land was
Dutch East India Company (see pp52–3), he travelled to Asia. In 1642, he designated for four purposes:
sailed on the yacht De Heems kerck and then with agriculture, recreation, a
the cargo ship Zeehaen in search of the nature reserve and an army
legendary southern continent. Tasman charted training area.
some of the coast and later reached New
Zealand’s South Island. On 13 June 1643, he Environs
arrived in Batavia (now Jakarta), which he Lauwersoog is a good
called home until his death 16 years later. base from which to explore
From 1644 to 1648, he sat on the Batavian the tuff churches that, in
council of justice; during this time he also the Middle Ages, were built
joined trading missions to Sumatra in villages such as Doezum,
(1646) and Siam (1647). Tasman died on Bedum and Zuidwolde.
10 October 1659, having bequeathed They can be recognized
his money to the poor of Lutjegast. by their grey or green
porous stone.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and pp412–13



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GRONINGEN  291

6 Pieterburen
Road Map D1. * 500. @ 65, 67, 68.
n Waddencentrum, Hoofdstraat 83
(0595-528522).
One of the best-known places in
Groningen is Pieterburen, home
to the Zeehondencrèche. This
seal nursery was founded by
Lenie ’t Hart and others as a
reception centre for sick and
disabled seals from the nearby
Waddenzee, where some 1,750
seals live. Half of these owe their
lives to care they received here.
The Waddencentrum, also
located here, is an exhibition
centre dedicated to the mud
flats of the Waddenzee. It also Recovering seal in one of the ponds at Pieterburen
provides useful information for
people wishing to walk there. used as a venue for exhibitions, features a ceremonial bed-
while the Schathuis (treasury) is stead dating from the early
O Zeehondencrèche Pieterburen now a lively café and restaurant. 18th century, when King
Hoofdstraat 94a. Tel 0595-526526. William III stayed here. The
Open 10am–5pm daily. P Borg Verhildersum kitchen in the cellar has all the
} Het Waddencentrum Wierde 40, Leens. Tel 0595-571430. old fittings. The gardens were
Hoofdstraat 83. Tel 0595-528522. Open Apr–Oct: 10:30am–5pm laid out during restoration
Open 9am–6pm daily. - Tue–Sun. & work in the 18th century. The
Schathuis (treasury), formerly
Environs used to store the food brought
In Leens, 10 km (6 miles) to the 7 Uithuizen by the townspeople to the
southwest of Pieterburen, is Road Map E1. * 5,300. @ 41, 61, castle, currently houses a café
the stunning 14th-century 62, 641, 662. n Mennonietenkerk- and restaurant.
borg (moated manor house) straat 13 (0595-434051). ( Sat.
Verhildersum, which contains P Menkemaborg
19th-century furnishings. The The exceptionally pretty castle Menkemaweg 2. @ 61. Tel 0595-
castle is surrounded by a wide of Menkemaborg in Uithuizen 431970. Open Mar–Jun & Sep:
moat. Its gardens include an dates back to the 14th century. 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; Jul–Aug:
arbour and sculptures. The It acquired its present-day form 10am–5pm daily; Oct–Dec: 10am–
castle’s coach house is regularly around 1700. The bedroom 4pm Tue–Sun. Closed Jan–Feb. &
























Wedding in traditional dress in the gardens of the 14th-century Menkemaborg in Uithuizen




290-291_EW_Netherlands.indd 291 16/01/17 12:06 pm

292  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS


8 Appingedam
Road Map E1. * 12,400. @ 40, 45,
78, 140, 178. n Oude Kerkstraat 1
(0596-620300). ( Sat.
This town, a member of the
Hanseatic League in the Middle
Ages, was granted its charter in
1327. Standing at a junction of
waterways as it once did and
with a seaport, it quickly grew
into a major international
trading city. The medieval layout
of the city has remained largely
unchanged. The hanging
kitchens, visible from the
Vlinterbrug bridge, were built
this way to create more space Steam pumping station (1878) at the Winschoten polder, now a museum
in the houses. Directly over the
water are doors from which environs are excellent for walking P Fraeylemaborg
Hoofdweg 30–32, Slochteren.
people drew water for their or cycling, particularly around Tel 0598-421568. Open 2 Jan–31 Dec:
household needs. places like nearby Schildmeer. 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 1–5pm Sat, Sun &
In the 18th century, the public hols. &
town again prospered, as the
Ebenhaëzerhuis well illustrates. 0 Fraeylemaborg
Appingendam, with over Road Map E1. n Noorderweg 1, q Winschoten
65 listed buildings, has a Slochteren (0598-422970). Road Map E2. * 18,500. @ 10, 12,
preservation order as a town 13, 14, 17, 29. n Torenstraat 10 (0597-
of historical interest. Fraeylemaborg is one of the 430022). ( Sat.
most imposing castles of
Groningen. It dates back to the This little town in Oost-
9 Slochteren Middle Ages. Three embrasures Groningen is known primarily
in the kitchen and the hall above for its three mills: Berg, a corn
Road Map E1. * 2,600. @ 78, 178.
n Noorderweg 1 (0598-422970). it bear silent witness to the and hulling mill from 1854;
( Thu. defensive functions the castle Dijkstra, which is 25 m (82 ft)
once had. In the 17th century, in height and dates from 1862;
When a natural gas field was two side wings were added, and and Edens, a corn and hulling
discovered here in 1959, in the 18th century it was given mill from 1761. The interesting
Slochteren gained overnight its present form with the Museum Stoomgemaal
national renown. The “Slochteren addition of the monumental contains a steam-powered
Dome” appeared to be the main wing. The castle is pump from 1878 which
largest in the world when it was surrounded by a double moat. was used to drain the
first discovered, and the revenue The extensive wooded park flooded polderland.
it brought in made Holland rich. just beyond the castle is an
The past of this historic town is interesting combination of the E Museum Stoomgemaal
closely associated with the lords 18th-century Baroque garden Oostereinde 4. Tel 0597-425070.
of the Fraeylemaborg. The style and the 19th-century Open call for timings. &
Reformed Church in Slochteren English landscape gardens.
consists of the remnants of a Environs
13th-century Romanesque- In Heiligerlee stands a
Gothic cross-naved church. The monument to the Battle of
Heiligerlee in 1568. This battle
is famous for being over in just
two hours and for the death
of Count Adolf of Nassau. The
Museum “Slag bij Heiligerlee”
has an exhibition dedicated to
the bloody battle.
E Museum “Slag bij Heiligerlee”
Provincialeweg 55. Tel 0597-418199.
Open Apr & Oct: 1–5pm Tue–Sun;
May–Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 1pm–
The historical castle of Fraeylemaborg at Slochteren 5pm Sun. Closed public hols. &
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and pp412–13



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GRONINGEN  293


w Veendam
Road Map E2. * 28,500. @ 71, 73.
n Museumplein 5b (0598-364224).
( Mon am, Thu pm.
Parkstad Veendam (Veendam
Garden City) is so called for the
lush greenery in the town,
which for centuries was the
industrial heart of the peat
colonies. However, at the end
of the 19th century, peat-
cutting fell into decline.
Although shipping grew in
importance – Veendam even
had its own maritime school –
the town retained its character
as a peat-cutting centre.
The Veenkoloniaal Museum
(peat colony museum) offers Grand layout of the impressive fortress of Bourtange
a permanent exhibition
illustrating the history of E Museum “De Baracquen” t Ter Apel
Willem Lodewijkstraat 33. Tel 0599-
peat-cutting, navigation, 354600. Open mid-Mar–Oct: Road Map E2. * 7,800.
agriculture and industry in 10am–5pm daily; Nov–mid-Mar: @ 26, 70, 73. n Hoofdstraat 49a
the Groningen peatlands. noon–5pm Sat & Sun. Closed 25 & (0599-581277). ( Thu.
The most renowned 26 Dec. &
inhabitant of Veendam was In Ter Apel, situated in the
Anthony Winkler Prins (1817– r Oude en Nieuwe Westerwolde region between
1908), who wrote the famous Drenthe and Germany, is a
encyclopaedia which is still Pekela 1465 monastery of the same
associated with his name. Road Map E2. * 13,500. @ 75. name. In 1933, the monastery
n Restaurant Het Turfschip/ was thoroughly restored and
E Veenkoloniaal Museum Flessings – terrein 3, Oude Pekela now functions as a museum
Museumplein 5. Tel 0598-364224. (0597-618833). ( Wed pm, Thu pm. devoted to ecclesiastic art and
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Thu, 1–5pm religious history. The fragrant
Fri–Mon. Closed public hols. & The “old” and “new” villages herb garden located in the
of Pekela are typical ribbon cloisters contains a collection
developments with a marked of nutrient-rich herbs such as
e Bourtange rural, peatland character. birthwort and common rue.
In the 18th century, potato
Road Map E2. * 600. @ 70, 72.
n Willem Lodewijkstraat 33 (0599- flour and straw-board manu- E Museum-klooster Ter Apel
354600). ∑ bourtange.nl facture grew in importance Boslaan 3. Tel 0599-581370. Open
in the region. There are 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 1–5pm Sun &
Right at the German border pleasant footpaths along the public hols. Closed 1 Jan, Mon
is the magnificent fortified main canal. (Nov–Mar). & 7 - =
town of Bourtange, whose
history dates back to 1580,
when William of Orange
ordered that a fortress with
five bastions be built here
on what had once been
swampland. The defence
works were continuously
upgraded, until the fort
gradually lost its defensive
functions. It has now been
painstakingly restored to its
18th-century appearance.
Museum “De Baracquen”
exhibits artifacts excavated
in the fort.
The charming town itself
lies within a star-shaped
labyrinth of moats. Beautifully restored cloisters at the Ter Apel monastery




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Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS  295

FRIESLAND


Friesland, or Fryslân as it is officially called, is a remarkable
province perhaps best known outside the Netherlands for
its distinctive Friesian cows. Parts of it are below sea level,
and its size has increased since historic times as a result
of land reclamation schemes on the former Zuiderzee.

Much of the province is fenland, whose The provincial capital of Leeuwarden
myriad canals and channels no doubt has some interesting and unique
helped the freedom-loving Frisians fight museums, while elsewhere in the
off invaders. The 1345 battle of Warns, province visitors can enjoy collections
when the Frisians beat the Dutch army, consisting of items as diverse as historic
is still commemorated every year. In the costumes and hats, ceramics, letters, ice
7th century, the Frisians under their king, skates and sledges, vernacular paintings,
Radboud, inhabited an independent bells, model boats and human
territory that stretched all the way to mummies. Outside the towns, the
Flanders and Cologne (see pp48–9), and landscape is interesting too, from
they have preserved their distinctive the mud flats on the Waddenzee to
language to this day. Other features the forests and heathland of the
peculiar to this province are unique Drents-Friese Woud National Park,
sports and recreations like sailing and away to the east. Tourism is becoming
racing in skûtjes (traditional Frisian boats), increasingly important in Friesland
hunting for plovers’ eggs, fierljeppen (pole- nowadays and its inhabitants less
vaulting), keatsen (a ball game), and the insular. Visitors are greeted with open
famous Elfstedentocht, a winter ice-skating arms and Jo binne tige welcom – “You
marathon around 11 Frisian towns. are heartily welcome.”





























Bartlehiem, the junction of the Elfsteden (11 towns) – a favourite summer destination for day-trippers
Display showing the position of planets in the solar system, Planetarium Friesland



294-295_EW_Netherlands.indd 295 14/03/2017 15:04

296  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring Friesland

Friesland is famous for its vast meadows and its distinctive
farmhouses of the kop-hals-romp and stelp types. It also
boasts a varied landscape. In the southwest are the popular Lauwersoog
Friese meren (Frisian lakes), while the north is typified by Anjum
undulating dykes, terp villages and church steeples with Holwerd Lauwers
pitched roofs. Gaasterland in the south has rolling woodlands Meer
and cliffs, whereas the Friese wouden (Frisian woods) in the The sea dyke at Wierum Ferwerd
province’s southeastern corner, with their forests, heathland DOKKUM
and drifting sands, are more reminiscent of Drenthe.

St. Annaparochie Damwoude Kollum
Sights at a Glance Stiens Dokkumer Ee
1 Leeuwarden Buitenpost
2 Dokkum Veenwouden
3 Franeker Sexbierum Menaldum
4 Harlingen
5 Bolsward LEEUWARDEN Bergumer-
6 Workum FRANEKER Dronrijp Bergum Meer
7 Hindeloopen HARLINGEN Surhuisterveen
8 Gaasterland
9 Sloten
0 Sneek Prinses Margriet Ka naal Earnewâld
q Thialfstadion Wieuwerd OUDE VENEN
w Oude Venen Wommels Drachten
e Beetsterzwaag
r Appelscha FRIESLAND
Grou
Makkum BOLSWARD BEETSTERZWAAG

SNEEK Akkrum
Donkerbroek
Gorredijk
Oosterwolde
WORKUM Joure
APPELSCHA
Fluessen THIALFSTADION Oldeberkoop
HINDELOOPEN Heerenveen
Koudum Sloter
Meer
The Noorderhaven in Harlingen Balk SLOTEN
Stavoren Tjeukemeer Wolvega Noordwolde
GAASTERLAND
Rijsterbos
Getting Around
Oudemirdum Lemmer
Friesland is convenient and easy to get to.
It is crossed by the A7 (east–west) and the
A32 (north–south) motorways. Rail and
bus links are unproblematic. Most of the
larger villages and towns have a railway
station; those which don’t can be reached
by bus. From Harlingen, Holwerd or
Lauwersoog, the islands are only a short
boat ride away. The province also has a
good network of minor roads, walking
routes and cycle tracks.
Gabled houses along Het Diep in Sloten
For map symbols see back flap


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FRIESLAND  297






Lauwersoog
Anjum
Holwerd
Lauwers
Meer
Ferwerd
DOKKUM

Dokkumer Ee
St. Annaparochie Damwoude Kollum
Stiens The terp of Hogbeintum, west of Dokkum, the
Veenwouden Buitenpost highest in Friesland
Sexbierum Menaldum
LEEUWARDEN Bergumer-
FRANEKER Dronrijp
Bergum Meer Surhuisterveen 0 kilometres 10
Prinses Margriet Ka naal Earnewâld
HARLINGEN 0 miles 5

Wieuwerd OUDE VENEN
Wommels Drachten
FRIESLAND
Grou
Makkum BOLSWARD BEETSTERZWAAG

SNEEK Akkrum
Donkerbroek
Gorredijk
Oosterwolde
WORKUM Joure
APPELSCHA
Fluessen THIALFSTADION Oldeberkoop
HINDELOOPEN Heerenveen
Koudum Sloter
Meer
Balk SLOTEN
Stavoren Tjeukemeer Wolvega Noordwolde Key
GAASTERLAND
Rijsterbos Motorway
Oudemirdum Lemmer Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border





Picturesque Lindevallei at Wolvega, near Thialfstadion
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and p413


296-297_EW_Netherlands.indd 297 16/01/17 12:06 pm

298  NOR THERN AND EASTERN NE THERLANDS


The Elfstedentocht The “Elfstedenkruisje”
(Elfsteden cross) is in
The Elfstedentocht, or 11-town race, is a 200-km the shape of a
(124-mile) ice-skating marathon which passes Maltese cross. In
through Leeuwarden, Skeen, IJlst, Sloten, Stavoren, the middle is an
enamel coat of
Hindeloopen, Workum, Bolsward, Harlingen, arms of Friesland
Franeker, Dokkum and back to Leeuwarden. and the
Participants are awarded the famous inscription “De
Friesche Elf Steden”
Elfstedenkruisje only when they have collected all –“The 11 Frisian towns”.
the stamps on their starter’s card and provided they
get back to Leeuwarden before midnight. The
winner of the race is guaranteed local fame. 0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
The Tocht Der Tochten
The Tocht der Tochten (literally, “Race of Races”), as the
Elfstedentocht is known, is a combination of race and
touring marathon and has acquired almost mythical
status in the Netherlands. The race is a real media
event, keeping millions glued to their television
screens. Although the marathon has been held only
15 times since 1900, the entire country falls under the
spell of the event as soon as the mercury falls even
slightly below zero. If there is a lasting frost, the area
supervisors measure daily the thickness of the ice, as Harns Frjentsjer
it has to be at least 15 cm (6 in) thick for the race to (Harlingen) (Franeker)
be held. When the magic words It sil heve (It shall
happen) are uttered by the supervisors, Friesland
is transformed, overflowing with excited crowds.
Trains are packed, the roads are jammed with cars
and entire villages are mobilized to provide hot tea Harlingervaart
and oranges for the skaters. Wandering musicians
whip the crowd into a frenzy of enthusiasm. The Boalsert
Dutch language has been enriched with the Frisian (Bolsward)
word klúnen, which means to walk overland on skates
past places where the ice is impassable.
Snits
Workumer Trekvaart Drylts
(Sneek)

Warkum (Ijlst)
(Workum)
Hylpen
(Hindeloopen)
Franeker in a festive mood



Starum Sleat
(Stavoren) (Sloten)

Dropping out is a common occurrence during
the race. Despite being affected by snow
blindness and symptoms of frostbite, many
participants in the race attempt to complete the
course. Some break down in tears when they
realize that they will be unable to collect the
much-coveted Elfstedenkruisje (Elfsteden cross).





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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Feature template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.3)
Date 18th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm