(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - The Netherlands

SHOPPING IN A MSTERD A M  149

Books and Newspapers
market as locals sell off their Boerenmarkt. The best prices,
unwanted junk. however, are to be found about English-language books are
Each district in Amsterdam 25 km (16 miles) northwest of easily available, particularly at
has its own market. The best- Amsterdam at the weekend The American Book Center,
known is the Albert Bever wijkse Bazaar, one Waterstones and The New
Cuypmarkt (see p145). There of Europe’s largest indoor English Bookshop. They can also
are also many specialist flea markets. Next be picked up cheaply at second-
markets. Visitors and door you will find hand shops, such as The Book
residents alike are Oriental merchandise. Exchange. Comics collectors
drawn to the array of should not miss Lambiek. Het
seasonal flowers at the Financieel Dagblad has a daily
Bloemenmarkt. Another Specialist Shops business update in English and
market popular with Specialist shops are a weekly English-language
tourists is Waterlooplein dotted throughout edition. For the latest news on
flea market (see p81), the city. The unusual events, parties and exhibitions,
where bargains can be Condom erie Het Gulden visit the city’s official tourist
found among the bric- Vlies, located in a website www.iamsterdam.com.
à-brac; new and Jenever of former squat, sells
second-hand clothes Amsterdam condoms from all over
are also for sale. the world. Christmas
Browsers will be fascinated Palace sells festive adornments
by the dozens of stalls at the year round, and Party House
Looier Kunst en has a vast collection of paper
Antiekcentrum (see p117), decorations. Capsicum
selling anything from antique Natuurstoffen has a huge
dolls to egg cups. On selection of silks and linens,
Wednesdays and Saturdays while Coppenhagen 1001
on Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal Kralen offers over 1,000 types
there is a stamp and coin of beads. It is also worth
market. Gourmets should head exploring Joe’s Vliegerwinkel
for the Noordermarkt (see for kites, Simon Levelt for tea
p115), for the Saturday organic and coffee and De Kaaskamer Organic foods displayed at the Saturday
food market, also known as the for cheese. food market, Noordermarkt
DIRECTORY
Department Stores Markets Christmas Palace Simon Levelt
and Malls Singel 508. Prinsengracht 180.
De Beverwijkse Bazaar Map 4 F1. Map 1 B4.
De Bijenkorf Montageweg 35, Tel 020-4210155. Tel 020-6240823.
Dam 1. Map 2 D5. Beverwijk. Condomerie Het
Tel 0251-262666.
Tel 0900-0919. Gulden Vlies Books and
Boerenmarkt Newspapers
Blokker Noordermarkt. Open Warmoesstraat 141. The American Book
Map 2 D5.
Kalverstraat 41. Map 4 F1. summer: 9am–4pm Sat; Tel 020-6274174. Center
Tel 020-6244456. winter: 9am–3pm Sat. Spui 12. Map 4 F1.
Ceintuurbaan 109. Looier Kunst en Coppenhagen 1001 Tel 020-6255537.
Kralen
Map 4 F4. Antiekcentrum Rozengracht 54. The Book Exchange
Tel 020-6727746. Elandsgracht 109. Map 1 B4. Kloveniersburgwal 58.
Map 4 D1. Map 2 D5.
Hema v 7, 10, 17. Tel 020-6243681. Tel 020-6266266.
Kalvertoren, Kalverstraat. Open 11am–5pm Sat–Thu. Joe’s Vliegerwinkel The New English
Map 4 F1. Noordermarkt Nieuwe Hoogstraat 19. Bookshop
Tel 020-4228988. Noordermarkt. Map 2 E5. Kalverstraat 223.
Nieuwendijk 174–176. Map 1 C3. Tel 020-6250139. Map 4 F1.
Map 2 D4. v 3, 10, 13, 14, 17. De Kaaskamer Tel 020-6249789.
Tel 020-6234176. Runstraat 7. Lambiek
Specialist Shops Map 4 E1. Kerkstraat 132. Map 4 E1.
Magna Plaza Tel 020-6233483. Tel 020-6267543.
Nieuwezijds Capsicum Party House Waterstones
Natuurstoffen
Voorburgwal 182. Oude Hoogstraat 1. Rozengracht 92. Kalverstraat 152.
Map 2 D4. Map 2 D5. Map 1 B4. Map 4 F1.
Tel 020-6269199. Tel 020-6231016. Tel 020-6247851. Tel 020-6383821.



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150  A MSTERD A M

ENTERTAINMENT IN
AMSTERDAM

Amsterdam offers a diverse array of world- performances are given by a multitude of
class entertainment. A wide variety of street performers and live bands in late-night
performances are staged in hundreds of bars and cafés. The city’s hottest annual events
venues throughout the city, ranging from include the Holland Festival and the Uitmarkt
the century-old Concertgebouw (see p124) (see p37). Club-goers are in their element in
to the sleek modern Muziekgebouw on the the canal city, which offers club nights to meet
IJ river. There is a huge choice of plays and most tastes in music and skilled DJs, such as
films throughout the year, and plenty of free Tiësto, who are renowned around the globe.


to look out for include
Introdans, which combines
jazz with flamenco and other
ethnic dance, and Conny
Jansen Danst, which combines
theatrical elements with strong
physical power. De Meervaart
is a venue that stages modern
dance, concerts and theatre.

Jazz, Pop and
World Music
The Dutch are avid jazz fans,
The colonnaded façade of the Concertgebouw theatre and big names such as Wayne
Shorter, Branford Marsalis and
Information The city’s musical centre piece is Nicholas Payton show up
Amsterdam’s various tourist the Concertgebouw (see p124), regularly on local stages. The
offices are a good starting point renowned for its acoustics and foremost jazz club is the
for what’s going on in the city. home to the celebrated Royal Bimhuis, housed in a purpose-
They can usually provide copies Concertgebouw Orchestra. built hall of the Muziek gebouw.
of free listings magazines, International orchestras and The Concertgebouw also hosts
including the AUB/Uitburo and soloists perform here regularly, regular jazz concerts. Keep an
the monthly Uitkrant, the and it hosts the Robeco Summer eye out for local talent such
definitive source of entertainment Concerts, a showcase of young as saxophonists Hans and
information. The latter is also talent. The Beurs van Berlage Candy Dulfer. Good jazz cafés
found in many bars and cafés. (see p95), originally the city’s can be found along Zeedijk
The city’s English website www. stock exchange, is now a and around Leidseplein,
iamsterdam.com has up-to- concert venue. namely Jazzcafé Alto and
date entertainment listings. The Netherlands Opera stages Bourbon Street.
The AUB/Uitburo has a last- performances in the 1,600-seat
minute window (open noon– Muziektheater (see p81), whose
7:30pm daily) selling tickets classical and modern repertoire
for same-day shows. is without parallel. The iconic
Muziek gebouw is the place to
go for anything from chamber
Classical Music, music to the avant-garde.
Opera and Dance
The Netherlands is home
Amsterdam is the country’s to two world-class ballet com-
touchstone for classical music panies. The Dutch National
and opera, and the principal Ballet, based in the Muziektheater,
venues host some of the world’s puts on classical ballet but also
finest events. The open-air daring works by contemporary
theatre in the Vondelpark (see Dutch choreographers, while
pp124–5) stages free concerts, and the Nederlands Dans Theater
in summer, the Grachtenfestival (NDT) specializes in works by
features mainly classical music its Czech artistic director, Jiri Bourbon Street, one of Amsterdam’s
on floating canal stages. Kylian. Modern companies popular jazz cafés




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ENTER T AINMENT IN A MSTERD A M  151


performances in large halls
and aircraft hangars. The
musical dramas of Orkater
appear mainly at the
Stadsschouwburg and the
Bellevue Theater. Summer
outdoor the ater can be
seen in the Vondelpark (see
pp124–5) and the Amsterdamse
Bos (see p193), a sprawling
woodland park on the edge
of town.



Disco in the Heineken Music Hall
For most Amsterdammers, rock Hove. The annual highlight for
and pop are synonymous with opera, theatre and dance is the
two venues. Paradiso, which Holland Festival, held from late
has hosted the Rolling Stones, May to June. It overlaps with
Prince, David Bowie and other the International Theatre School
international music stars, is Festival, whose experimental
housed in a converted church drama pops up at De Brakke
just off Leidseplein, while Grond and Frascati.
Melkweg occupies a former The chief musical theatre is
dairy nearby. Both offer a the Koninklijk Theater Carré The Art Deco Tuschinski Theatre, a luxurious
varied and enter taining diet (see p139). It stages box-office cinema experience
of rock, pop, dance, rap and hits such as Les Misérables
world music. and Miss Saigon. De Kleine
Mega-concerts are booked Komedie, a magnificent Cinema
into the 50,000-seat Amsterdam 17th-century building on Film fanatics are well looked
ArenA, and headline acts the Amstel river, is a favourite after, with more than 40 cinemas
sometimes play at the more venue for cabaret groups. in town. Foreign language
intimate Heineken Music Hall. Stand-up comedy has gained films are shown in the original
As a multicultural society, the in popularity, led by the language with subtitles. The
Netherlands is a natural breeding hilarious English-language leading Dutch filmmaker is
ground for world music. Tradi- routines of Boom Chicago. Amsterdam-born Paul Verhoeven
tions from West Africa and the Experimental theatre can (of Basic Instinct fame). He
West Indies, Indonesia, Suriname be found at a range of venues returned to his homel and to
and Turkey come together in including Westergasfabriek, shoot Black Book, the highest-
this fascinating melting pot. a converted former gas works grossing Dutch film ever.
Akhnaton is a cultural centre in a lovely park setting. The Cinema programmes change
with a potent cocktail of company De Dogtroep stages every Thursday, so check the
Caribbean, African and Arabic offbeat street theatre, while website www.filmladder.nl. De
music. De Badcuyp, in the lively Theatergroup Hollandia has Filmkrant is a free monthly film
Pijp district, plays with salsa, won great acclaim with its magazine with complete listings.
tango, African music and other
dance options. In bars such as
Café Nol and De Twee Zwaantjes
you can enjoy traditional Dutch
folk music smartlappen and
mingle with the locals.

Theatre and Cabaret
The heart of the country’s lively
theatre scene is in Amsterdam.
The premier venue is the
Stadsschouwburg (see p116),
home to the Amsterdam
Theatre Group and led by the
imaginative director Ivo van Musicians providing entertainment in the Vondelpark




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152  A MSTERD A M


The most stunning cinema in
town is the Tuschinski, an
Art Deco masterpiece with
a luxurious foyer and stained-
glass windows (see p119). Some
cinemas such as the mainstream
Pathé de Munt, City Theater
and the arthouse Kriterion
show children’s films at week-
ends. The Uitkijk is a cosy,
158-seat venue dating from
1913 that shows mainly classics.
Clubs and Discos The bright lights of Amsterdam ArenA, a premier sporting venue
Amsterdam’s nightclubs are
famous for their variety and dance palace on the third floor. are available from the Pink Point
high energy. The scene Located in the former building kiosk next to the Westerkerk
throbs hardest in and around of Dutch newspaper De (www.pinkpoint.org).
Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein Volkskrant, Volkshotel is home
and Reguliersdwarsstraat. Most to a restaurant and one of the
clubs open at 11pm and are at city’s leading nightclubs, which Spectator Sports
their busiest from around 1am; attracts creative hipsters and The Dutch are a sport-mad
closing time is 4am during students. The college crowd nation, and nothing makes their
the week and 5am on Friday also gravitates to the dancehall pulses race faster than football.
and Saturday. of Hotel Arena, located in a Three teams enjoy international
Jimmy Woo is famous for its former orphanage. standing: Ajax Amsterdam,
tough door policy. Inside, it’s Clubbing is also at the heart Feyenoord Rotterdam and PSV
Hong-Kong hip, with lots of of Amsterdam’s gay scene.
black leather and a great sound Crowds are often mixed and
system. Escape draws a young, most gay clubs will rarely turn
trendy crowd to its huge away women or straight men.
split-level complex on Reguliersdwarsstraat is home
Rembrandtplein, and another to a number of gay bars, such
large, popular venue is AIR. On as NYX, a slick bar with three
the opposite side of the square, levels and a balcony for viewing
Rain spins Latin and World beats. the dance scene below. Other
The leading non-house club popular gay bars, such as
in town is Sugar Factory, with Amstel 54 and Queers Café, are
its diverse menu of soul, funk located on the nearby Amstel.
and jazz-dance. The other discos Prik is a hugely popular bar
around Leidseplein are basically that turns into a small club at
extended bars with small dance night. Young women like Vive
floors, catering to tourists. At La Vie, while Saarein II is a
Odeon near Spui Square, you friendly, relaxed bar tucked
can party your way up from away in a small street in the
the basement restaurant to the Jordaan. Details of other venues Two footballers clashing at an
Ajax game
Eindhoven (see p368). They
sometimes face off at the
spectacular Amsterdam ArenA.
For something different, try
watching a game of korfball,
invented by Amsterdam teacher
Nico Boekhuysen over 100 years
ago. It mixes elements of basket-
ball, netball and volleyball, and
is the only unisex sport played
profes sionally. Each team has four
men and four women. Top-level
matches are played on the indoor
courts of the Olympic Stadium,
Dancers at one of Amsterdam’s many clubs built for the Games held in 1928.




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ENTER T AINMENT IN A MSTERD A M  153


DIRECTORY
Entertainment Bimhuis Frascati Hotel Arena
Information Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ Nes 63. ‘s-Gravesandestraat 51.
Piet Heinkade 3. Map 2 D5. Map 6 D4.
AUB Ticketshop Map 2 F3. Tel 020-6266866. Tel 020-8502400.
Leidseplein 26. Tel 020-7882188. ∑ frascati.nl ∑ hotelarena.nl
Map 4 E2. ∑ bimhuis.nl
Tel 020-7959950. De Kleine Komedie Jimmy Woo
∑ amsterdam Bourbon Street Amstel 56–58. Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
suitburo.nl Leidsekruisstraat 6–8. Map 5 B3. 18. Map 4 E2.
Map 4 E2. Tel 020-6240534. Tel 020-6263150.
Classic Music, Tel 020-6233440. ∑ dekleinekomedie.nl ∑ jimmywoo.com
Opera and Dance ∑ bourbonstreet.nl Koninklijk Theater NYX
Café Nol Carré
Beurs van Berlage Westerstraat 109. Amstel 115–125. Reguliersdwarsstraat 42.
Damrak 243. Map 1 B3. Map 5 B3. Map 4 F1. ∑ clubnyx.nl
Map 2 D4. Tel 020-6245380. Tel 0900 252 5255. Odeon
Tel 020-5304141. Singel 460. Map 4 F1.
∑ beursvanberlage.nl Heineken Music Hall ∑ theatercarre.nl
Arena Boulevard 590. Westergasfabriek Tel 020-5218555.
Concertgebouw Tel 0900 687 4242 55. ∑ odeon.amsterdam.nl
Concertgebouwplein 2–6. ∑ heineken-music- Haarlemmerweg 8–10. Prik
Map 1 A1.
Map 4 D4. hall.nl Tel 020-5860710.
Tel 0900 6718345. ∑ westergasfabriek. Spuistraat 109. Map 1 C5.
∑ concertgebouw.nl Jazzcafé Alto Tel 020-3200002.
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat com ∑ prikamsterdam.nl
De Meervaart 115.
Meer en Vaart 300. Map 4 E2. Cinema Queers Café
Tel 020-4107700. Tel 020-6263249. Amstel 60. Map 5 A2.
∑ meervaart.nl City Theater Tel 06-51421222.
∑ jazz-cafe-alto.nl Kleine Gartmanplantsoen
Muziekgebouw Melkweg 15–19. Rain
Aan ‘t IJ Lijnbaansgracht 234a. Map 5 C3. Rembrandtplein 44.
Piet Heinkade 1. Map 4 E2. Tel 0900 1458. Map 5 A2. Tel 020-
Map 2 F3. Tel 020-5318181. Kriterion 6267078.
Tel 020-7882000. ∑ melkweg.nl ∑ rain-amsterdam.com
∑ muziekgebouw.nl Roetersstraat 170. Saarein II
Paradiso Map 5 C3.
Het Muziektheater Weteringschans 6–8. Tel 020-6231708. Elandstraat 119.
Amstel 3. Map 4 E2. Map 1 B5.
Map 5 B2. Tel 020-6264521. Pathé de Munt Tel 020-6234901.
Tel 020-6255455. ∑ paradiso.nl Vijzelstraat 15. ∑ saarein.nl
∑ muziektheater.nl Map 4 F1.
De Twee Zwaantjes Tel 0900 1458. Sugar Factory
Vondelpark Prinsengracht 114. Lijnbaansgracht 238.
Stadhouderskade. Map 1 C3. Tuschinski Map 4 E2.
Reguliersbreestraat
Map 4 E2. Tel 020-6752729. 24–36. Map 5 A2. Tel 020-6270008.
Tel 020-7882000. Tel 0900 1458. ∑ sugarfactory.nl
∑ vondelpark.nl Theatre and
Cabaret Uitkijk Vive La Vie
Jazz, Pop and Prinsengracht 452. Amstelstraat 7. Map 5 A2.
World Music Bellevue Theater Map 4 E2. Tel 020-6240114.
Leidsekade 90. Tel 020-6237460. ∑ vivelavie.net
Akhnaton Map 4 D2.
Nieuwezijds Kolk 25. Tel 020-5305301. Clubs and Discos Volkshotel
Map 2 D4. ∑ theaterbellevue.nl Wibautstraat 150.
Tel 020-624 3396. Boom Chicago AIR Map 5 C1.
∑ akhnaton.nl Amstelstraat 16. Map 5 A2. Tel 020-2612100.
Rozentheater ∑ volkshotel.nl
Amsterdam ArenA Rozengracht 117. Tel 020-8200670.
∑ air.nl
ArenA Boulevard 1, Tel 0900 BOOM CHICAGO. Spectator Sports
Zuidoost. Map 1 A5. Amstel 54
Tel 020-3111333. ∑ boomchicago.nl Amstel 54. Map 5 A2. Ajax Amsterdam
∑ amsterdamarena.nl Tel 06-29557092. Football team
De Brakke Grond ∑ english.ajax.nl
De Badcuyp Vlaams Cultureel Escape
Sweelinckstraat 10. Centrum, Nes 45. Rembrandtplein 11. Olympic Stadium
Map 5 A5. Map 2 D5. Map 5 A2. Oud Zuid.
Tel 020-6759669. Tel 020-6266866. Tel 020-6221111. Tel 020-3054400.
∑ badcuyp.nl ∑ brakkegrond.nl ∑ escape.nl ∑ olympischstadion.nl
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154  A MSTERD A M

STREET FINDER

The page grid superimposed to be found on the book’s inside
on the Area by Area map back cover). An index of street
below shows which parts of names and places of interest
Amsterdam are covered in marked on the maps is on
this Street Finder. Map pages 162–3. The key below
references given for all indicates the maps’ scale and
sights, hotels, restaurants, other features marked on them,
shopping and entertainment including transport terminals, H e t
venues described in this emergency services and I J
guide refer to the maps in information centres. All major
this section (the road map is sights are clearly marked.

NASSAUKADE HERENGRACHT DAMRAK

0 metres 500 Nieuwe
0 yards 500 Zijde
ROZENGRACHT DAM
Canal Ring Oude
Zijde VALKENBU RGERSTR
Key to Street Finder
Major sight
Place of interest
Other building PR I N S E N G R ACHT
Metro station KINKERSTRAAT PLANTAGE MIDDENLAAN
Train station
Coach station
Tram stop OVERTOOM A m s t e l MAU R I T S K A D E
Bus stop VIJZELSTRAAT
Tour boat boarding point
Canalbus boarding point LINNAEUSSTRAAT
Museum boat boarding point Museum
Tourist information office Quarter STA DHOU D ERSKADE
Hospital with casualty unit WIBAUTSTRAAT
Police station
Church
Synagogue
Mosque
Railway line CORNELIS KRUSEMANSTRAAT
Pedestrianized street










Scale of Map Pages 1–6
0 metres 250 Fresh fruit for sale in the
1:11,250
0 yards 250 Noordermarkt (see p115)



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Date 10th November 2006
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A MSTERD A M STREE T FINDER  155



















NASSAUKADE HERENGRACHT DAMRAK H e t I J House with an elevated neck gable
(see p101) on the Geldersekade
Nieuwe
Zijde
ROZENGRACHT DAM

Canal Ring Oude
Zijde VALKENBU RGERSTR



KINKERSTRAAT PR I N S E N G R ACHT PLANTAGE MIDDENLAAN


VIJZELSTRAAT
OVERTOOM A m s t e l MAU R I T S K A D E



Museum LINNAEUSSTRAAT
Quarter STA DHOU D ERSKADE WIBAUTSTRAAT




CORNELIS KRUSEMANSTRAAT
















Magere Brug, the city’s most
famous bridge (see p118)




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E N T R E P O T D O K
Museum STAAL STR M RVISSER (Vakbonds- OOSTENBURGERGRACHT B L A N K E N
Pierson UIS
museum)
Verzetsmuseum
Waterlooplein
OOSTENBURGER PK1e COEHOORN
PARK
NIEUWE AMSTELSTR
Werf 't Kromhout
TURF
ST
Museum
A M S T E L W ATERLOO PLEIN Joods Portugese Botanicus P L A N T A G E P A R K L A A N Planetarium E n t r e p o t d o k K A D I J K C R U Q U I U S K A D E
Hortus
Synagoge
PAARDEN STR A M S T E L Historisch DR D M Amsterdam Hollandsche ZEEBURGER De Gooyer Z E E B U R G E R P A D
P L A N T A G E D O K L A A N
FUNENKADE
REGULIERSBREESTR
S A R P H A T I S T R A A T
Tuschinski 1>> Museum SLUYSPAD Schouwburg P L A N T A G E A RTI S STR Windmill Lozingskanaal
STRAAT
BAKKERS
Theater REMBRANDT AMSTELSTRAAT Blauwbrug HORTUSPLANTSOEN
PLEIN NIEUWE HERENGRACHT MUIDERGRACHT P L A N T A G 1>> ZEEBURGERDIJK
R E G U L I E R S
K E I Z E R S G R A C H T
PLANTAGE
THORBECKE PLEIN G R A C H T Willet-Holthuysen A m s t e l Hermitage 15 >> PLANTAGE PLANT AGE
D WA R S S T R A A T
Museum
M A U R I T S K A D E
Amsterdam
S i n g e l g r a c h t
H E R E N
LAAN
G R A C H T N I E U W E S T R WESTERMAN E LEPELLAAN M Aquarium L O U I S E W E N T S T R A A T P V L A M I N G S T R
N I E U W E
H E R E N
S T R A A T
FOAM G R A C H T A A M K EIZE RSGR A C H T W G R A C H T PLANTAGE I D D E N L A A N
P O N T A N U S S T R A A T
E
Museum R E G U L I E R S M S T E K E R K STRAAT MANEGE P R I N S E N G R A C H T P l a n t a g e PLANTAGE BADLAAN KAZERNE STR Z E S E N S T R A A T
PLANTAGE
K E I Z E R S G R A C H T S T E E L N I E U W E S P R I N S E N KORTE MUIDERGRACHT Muiderpoort V O N D A P P E R S T R A A T
LEPEL
P
STRAAT
Museum K E I Z E R S L Magere N I E U W E E LEPELKRUIS A C H T E R G R A C H T M u i d e r g r a c h t ALEXANDER ALEXANDERKA DE 3 C O M M E L I N S T R A A T
PLEIN
S A R P H A T I S T R A A T
van Loon G R A C H T UTRECHTSESTRAAT KERKSTRAAT Brug N I E U W E R STRAAT >>
A N S W I N D E N S T R A A T
N I E U W E A C H T E R G R A C H T
S
G R A C H T LEPEL STR T N I E U W E V A L C K E N I E R S T R A A T W A G E N A A R
Amstelkerk AMSTEL Amstelsluizen R S T R A A T
KERKSTRAAT
P R I N S E N G R A C H T Koninklijk ONBEKENDEGRACH A T V A L C K E N I E R S T R A A T S i n g e l g r a c h t Tropenmuseum L 1 e V D A P PE R N I E U W L A N D S T R P O N T A N U S S T R A A T
VELD
U T R E C H T S E D W A R S S T R A A T A M T Carré STA DS TI MMERT UI N S A R P H A T I S T R A A T M A U R I T S K A D E N A 2 e V A N S W I N D E N S T R A A T
P L E I N
A
R E G U L I E R S
Theater
I
P R I N S E N
VO ORMA LI G E
P I E T E R
ACHTERGRACHT S
S P I N O Z A S TR AAT
N
NOORDERSTRAAT
FALCK ST MAARTEN JANSZ S A R P H A T I S T R A A T PLEIN U Muiderpoort
KOSTERSTRAAT
NIEUWE G R A C H T ACHTERGRACHT E L Weesperplein SAJET OOST E R E I N W A R D T D A P P E R S T R A AT S T R
LOOIERSSTRAAT
FALCK STR PROF HUDDE STR W I J T T E N B A C H
FOKKE D E MARY ZELDENRUST STR S
SIMONSZSTRAAT
LIJNBAANSGRACHT FREDERIKS TULPSTR 'S-GRAVESANDESTRAAT OOSTER P AR K
PLEIN PROF TULPPLEIN HUDDEKA DE A U R I T S K A VAN MUSSCHENBROEK STR BOERHAAVE 2e BOERHAAVE STR D O M S E L A E R S T R A A T
PLEIN
ACHTER
A N D R E A S
OOSTEINDE K A D E M B O N N S T R A A T O O S T E R P A R K S
W E T E R I N G S C H A N S
L I N N A E U S P L A N T S O E N
NICOLAAS PIETER PAUWSTRAAT MAURITS I B A RUYSCHSTRAAT O O S T E R P A R K EIKENWEG P A R K PLEIN KASTANJE S T R A A T A O E T E W A L E R P A D VIJVERSTRAAT
PLEIN
D E N WESTEINDE S A R P H A T I 2e BOERHAAVE STR ‘S-GRAVESANDE KASTANJE S T R A A T T
R
OOSTEINDE
T E X S T R A A T WITSENSTR W T I L A N U S S T R A A T OETEWALERSTRAAT
VAN DER
STRAAT
H U I D E K O P E R S T R A A T
A
N I C O L A A S W I T S E N K A D E
S T A D H O U D E R S K A D E 145>> W E E 1e BOERHAAVESTR W B U T S T TIL A N US S TR A AT C A M P E R S T R A A T Onze Lieve S T R A A T O O S T E R PLEIN EIKEN P A R K V R O L I K S T R A A T T VIJVERSTRAAT
VAN DER
S i n g e l g r a c h t
Vrouwe
RUYSCHSTRAAT
I

Gasthuis
WEG
H E M O N Y L A A N H S P S W A M M E R D A M S T R A A T A R A WEG 2 E P O L D E R W E G
DEYMAN STR
BEUKEN
2 e J A C O B V E M E R U A T P A R K O O S T E R EIKENWEG P O P U L I E R E N W E G
STRAAT
D O U S T R A A T V N S T R 25 >> A I J S S P A R R E N W E G S T R A A T PLEIN B E I J E R S W E G
C A M P E N S T R A AT STRAAT BERCHEM S T R A A T O Z RUYSCH STR T BLASIUS BEUKEN 3 E
NICOLAAS
QUELLIJN A Y 1 e O O S T E R IEPENWEG WESSELS
STRAAT S T E E N S D 48 >> R P A R K S T R A A T CILLIERSSTRAAT STRAAT
G E R A R D S T R A A T F L I N C K N J A N T R S T R M E BLASIUSSTRAAT BEUKENWEG HERTZOG
T
R E T I E F S T R A A T
C U Y P 1e SWEELINCKSTRAAT 2 e A A S ARKSTRAAT A 2 e O O S T E R P L E I N I E P E N P A R K T U G E L A W E G STRAAT O R A N J E
A L B E R T D E R H E I J D E N T T A FONTEIN L A I N G ' S P R E T O R I U S S T R A A T
G O V E R T W O E 1e OOSTERP OETGENS DWA STR T 3 e O O S T E R WEG IEPEN V R O L I K S T R A A T STRAAT L I N N A E U S K A D E
MAGERS
L
S A R P H A T I P A R K 2 e J A N V A N U C E I N T U U R B A A N D J A OETGENSSTRAAT Wibautstraat OLM P O P U L I E R E N W E G MARITZSTR STRAAT R E T I E F S T R A A T STEVE PAARDEKRAALSTRAAT STRAAT B R E D E W E G
BIKO
PLEIN
SPITSKOP
DE
S T R A A T
NOUTS
SERVAES
STRAAT
T R A N S V A A L K A D E
STRAAT
S M I T
O S T A D E S T R A A T K
SARPH A TI P AR K PIJP S T R W I L L I B R O R D U S S T R A A T I m s t BURMAN DWA STR P L A T A N E N W E G E N W E G U G E L A W E G BRAND STR WET STRAAT P R E T O R I U S S T R A A T N E K S T R A A T TRANSVAAL R i n g v a a r t MI D DEN
BURMAN
REITZ
S A R P H A T I P A R K STRAAT O S T A D E S T R A A T A A V A N K U I P E R S S T R A A T 58 >> e l WEESPERZIJDE GRENS T PRESIDENT S CHRISTIAAN DE KRUGERPLEIN KRU GERPLE I N MAJUBASTRAAT TRANSVAAL PLEIN STRAAT R I N G D I J K DREBBEL STR WAKKER
S I N T
STRAAT
RUSTENBURGERSTRAAT
TRANSVAAL
ZACHARIAS
CORNELIS
STEVIN STR
V AEMSTEL
V A N T GIJSBRECHT JOUBERT STR TRAAT KRUGER STR STRAAT SIMON JANSESTRAAT
2e SWEELINCK
WILLEM
STR
BEUKELS
160-161_EW_Netherlands.indd 160 16/01/17 12:04 pm

O U D E Z I J D S A C H T E R B U R G W A L
K a t t e n b u r g e r v a a r t
156>>
VOORBURGWAL Hash BARNDE ST NIEUW Waag R E C H T B O O M S S L O O T W A A L B I N N E N K A N T KALKMARKT PRINS Oosterdok I J TUNNEL Oosterdok Het KRUISSTRAAT BURGERKADE PLEIN WINDROOS
O U D E
ST JANSSTRAAT
KATTEN
BLOED STR
NIEUWE
RIDDER STR
Marihuana
Waalseilandsgracht
Scheepvaartmuseum
PIJLSTEEG
NES DAMSTRAAT Museum KOE STR MARKT Nieuw- OUDESCHANS Montelbaanstoren H E NDRIKKADE KATTENBURG ER STR S T R A A T
W i t t e n b u r g e r v a a r t
markt
KRO M BOOMSSLOOT
KATTENBURGER
S T R A A T
OUDEZIJDS DOELEN STR OUDE ST ANTO DIJKSTRAA KRO M BOOMSSLOOT KEIZERS D E S C H A N S O u d e s c h a n s OOSTERSE P E P E R S T RAAT 2e WITTENBURGER DWA STR W I N D R O O S K A D E
W I T T E N B U R G E R K A D E
OUDE
R E C H T B O O M S S L O O T
P JACOBSZ
KORTE
STRAAT
O U D E S C H A N S
KONINGS STR
KADE
KORTE
W I T T E N B U R G E R
R A P E N B U R G
ENGE OUDEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL HOOG STR T STR O U BATAVIER U I L E N B U R G E R S T R A AT F O E L I E S T R A AT NIEUWE T B I J LT J E S PA D KATTENBURGERKADE
GRACHT
LOMBARD Oostindisch NIEUWE OUDE FOELIE STR SCHIPPERS KATTEN G R O T E W I T T E N B U R G E R
Huis
ST OUDEZIJDS ACHTERBURGWAL K L O V E N I E R S B U R G W A L Trippenhuis NI ESBREEST R AA T NIEUWE KADIJKS BURGERGRACHT STR S T R A A T
Zuider-
HOOG STR
C O N R A D S T R A A T
POOL
SINT SPINHUIS kerk ZIJDE STRAAT RAPEN PLEIN NIEUWE
STRAAT
STEEG
BARBEREN ZANDSTRAAT BURGER OOSTENBURGER 2e
STR RUSLAND K L O V E N I E R S B U R G W A L Pintohuis N I E U W E U i l e n b u r g e r g r a c h t PLEIN H O O G T E K L PAREL WAAIGAT O o s t e n b u r g e r v a a r t STRAAT
STR
Agnietenkapel SLIJK STR RAAMGRACHT V A L K E N B U R G E R S T R A A L A A G T E N i e u w e v a a r t OOSTENBURGERVOORSTRAAT O O S T E N B U R G E R K A D E LEEGHWATER STR
1e
C O M PA G N I E S T R A A T
LEEGHWATER
KADIJKEN
ANN
OVERHAALSGANG
OUDE GROENBURGWAL RAAMGRACHT Museum Het JODENHOUTTUINEN E FRANK STR TUSSEN N I E U W E V A A R T WITTENBURGERGRACHT TOUWBAAN P E T E R S T R A A T
ZWANENBURGWAL
MANHUISPOORT
VERVERSSTRAAT
N I E U W E H E R E N G R A C H T
JODENBREESTRAAT
K A D I J K
CRUQUIUS
Aäronkerk
Allard ST R AAT BINNENGAST H VENDEL STR G R O E N B U R G WA L Rembrandthuis WATERLOOPLEIN Mozes en R A P E N B U R G E R S T R A A T De Burcht PLANTAGEKADE K A D I J K BOULEVARDPAD ADMIRALITEIT C Z A A R STRAAT
STRAAT
NIEUWE DOELEN STR Stadhuis Muziektheater PLEIN MUIDERSTRAAT WERTHEIM HENRI POLAKLAAN KERKLAAN H O O G T E N i e u w e v a a r t STRAAT
E N T R E P O T D O K
Museum STAAL STR M RVISSER (Vakbonds- OOSTENBURGERGRACHT B L A N K E N
museum)
Pierson UIS
Verzetsmuseum
Waterlooplein
OOSTENBURGER PK1e COEHOORN
PARK
NIEUWE AMSTELSTR
Werf 't Kromhout
TURF
ST
Museum
A M S T E L W ATERLOO PLEIN Joods Portugese Botanicus P L A N T A G E P A R K L A A N Planetarium E n t r e p o t d o k K A D I J K C R U Q U I U S K A D E
Hortus
Synagoge
PAARDEN STR A M S T E L Historisch DR D M Amsterdam Hollandsche ZEEBURGER De Gooyer Z E E B U R G E R P A D
P L A N T A G E D O K L A A N
FUNENKADE
REGULIERSBREESTR
S A R P H A T I S T R A A T
Tuschinski 1>> Museum SLUYSPAD Schouwburg P L A N T A G E A RTI S STR Windmill Lozingskanaal
STRAAT
BAKKERS
Theater REMBRANDT AMSTELSTRAAT Blauwbrug HORTUSPLANTSOEN
PLEIN NIEUWE HERENGRACHT MUIDERGRACHT P L A N T A G 1>> ZEEBURGERDIJK
R E G U L I E R S
K E I Z E R S G R A C H T
THORBECKE PLEIN G R A C H T Willet-Holthuysen A m s t e l Hermitage 15 >> PLANTAGE PLANT AGE
PLANTAGE
D WA R S S T R A A T
Museum
M A U R I T S K A D E
Amsterdam
S i n g e l g r a c h t
H E R E N
LAAN
G R A C H T N I E U W E S T R WESTERMAN E LEPELLAAN M Aquarium L O U I S E W E N T S T R A A T P V L A M I N G S T R
N I E U W E
H E R E N
S T R A A T
FOAM G R A C H T A A M K EIZE RSGR A C H T W G R A C H T PLANTAGE I D D E N L A A N
P O N T A N U S S T R A A T
E
Museum R E G U L I E R S M S T E K E R K STRAAT MANEGE P R I N S E N G R A C H T P l a n t a g e PLANTAGE BADLAAN KAZERNE STR Z E S E N S T R A A T
K E I Z E R S G R A C H T S T E E L N I E U W E S P R I N S E N KORTE MUIDERGRACHT Muiderpoort V O N D A P P E R S T R A A T
PLANTAGE
LEPEL
P
STRAAT
Museum K E I Z E R S L Magere N I E U W E E LEPELKRUIS A C H T E R G R A C H T M u i d e r g r a c h t ALEXANDER ALEXANDERKA DE 3 C O M M E L I N S T R A A T
PLEIN
S A R P H A T I S T R A A T
van Loon G R A C H T UTRECHTSESTRAAT KERKSTRAAT Brug N I E U W E R STRAAT >>
A N S W I N D E N S T R A A T
N I E U W E A C H T E R G R A C H T
S
G R A C H T LEPEL STR T N I E U W E V A L C K E N I E R S T R A A T W A G E N A A R
Amstelkerk AMSTEL Amstelsluizen R S T R A A T
KERKSTRAAT
P R I N S E N G R A C H T Koninklijk A T V A L C K E N I E R S T R A A T S i n g e l g r a c h t Tropenmuseum L 1 e V D A P PE R N I E U W L A N D S T R P O N T A N U S S T R A A T
VELD
U T R E C H T S E D W A R S S T R A A T A M T Carré STA DS T I MME RTUI N S A R P H A T I S T R A A T M A U R I T S K A D E N A 2 e V A N S W I N D E N S T R A A T
P L E I N
A
Theater
R E G U L I E R S
I
P R I N S E N
VO OR MAL I G E
ONBEKENDEGRACH
ACHTERGRACHT S
P I E T E R
S P I N O Z A S TR AAT
N
NOORDERSTRAAT
FALCK ST MAARTEN JANSZ S A R P H A T I S T R A A T PLEIN U Muiderpoort
KOSTERSTRAAT
NIEUWE G R A C H T ACHTERGRACHT E L Weesperplein SAJET OOST E R E I N W A R D T D A P P E R S T R A AT S T R
LOOIERSSTRAAT
FALCK STR PROF HUDDE STR W I J T T E N B A C H
FOKKE D E MARY ZELDENRUST STR S
SIMONSZSTRAAT
LIJNBAANSGRACHT FREDERIKS TULPSTR 'S-GRAVESANDESTRAAT OOSTER P AR K
PLEIN PROF TULPPLEIN HUDDEKA DE A U R I T S K A VAN MUSSCHENBROEK STR BOERHAAVE 2e BOERHAAVE STR D O M S E L A E R S T R A A T
PLEIN
ACHTER
A N D R E A S
OOSTEINDE K A D E M B O N N S T R A A T O O S T E R P A R K S
W E T E R I N G S C H A N S
L I N N A E U S P L A N T S O E N
NICOLAAS PIETER PAUWSTRAAT MAURITS I B A RUYSCHSTRAAT O O S T E R P A R K EIKENWEG P A R K PLEIN KASTANJE S T R A A T A O E T E W A L E R P A D VIJVERSTRAAT
PLEIN
D E N WESTEINDE S A R P H A T I 2e BOERHAAVE STR ‘S-GRAVESANDE KASTANJE S T R A A T T
R
OOSTEINDE
T E X S T R A A T WITSENSTR W T I L A N U S S T R A A T OETEWALERSTRAAT
VAN DER
STRAAT
H U I D E K O P E R S T R A A T
A
S T A D H O U D E R S K A D E 145>> W E E 1e BOERHAAVESTR W B U T S T TILA N USST R A AT C A M P E R S T R A A T Onze Lieve S T R A A T O O S T E R PLEIN EIKEN P A R K V R O L I K S T R A A T T VIJVERSTRAAT
N I C O L A A S W I T S E N K A D E
VAN DER
Vrouwe
S i n g e l g r a c h t
RUYSCHSTRAAT
I

Gasthuis
WEG
H E M O N Y L A A N H S P S W A M M E R D A M S T R A A T A R A WEG 2 E P O L D E R W E G
DEYMAN STR
BEUKEN
2 e J A C O B V E M E R U A T P A R K O O S T E R EIKENWEG P O P U L I E R E N W E G
D O U S T R A A T V N S T R 25 >> A I J S S P A R R E N W E G S T R A A T PLEIN B E I J E R S W E G
STRAAT
C A M P E N S T R A AT STRAAT BERCHEM NICOLAAS S T R A A T O Z RUYSCH STR T BLASIUS BEUKEN 3 E
QUELLIJN A Y 1 e O O S T E R IEPENWEG WESSELS
STRAAT S T E E N S D 48 >> R P A R K S T R A A T CILLIERSSTRAAT STRAAT
G E R A R D S T R A A T F L I N C K N J A N T R S T R M E BLASIUSSTRAAT BEUKENWEG HERTZOG
T
R E T I E F S T R A A T
C U Y P 1e SWEELINCKSTRAAT 2 e A A S ARKSTRAAT A 2 e O O S T E R P L E I N I E P E N P A R K T U G E L A W E G STRAAT O R A N J E
A L B E R T D E R H E I J D E N T T A FONTEIN L A I N G ' S P R E T O R I U S S T R A A T
G O V E R T W O E 1e OOSTERP OETGENS DWA STR T 3 e O O S T E R WEG IEPEN V R O L I K S T R A A T STRAAT L I N N A E U S K A D E
MAGERS
L
S A R P H A T I P A R K 2 e J A N V A N U C E I N T U U R B A A N D J A OETGENSSTRAAT Wibautstraat OLM P O P U L I E R E N W E G MARITZSTR STRAAT R E T I E F S T R A A T STEVE PAARDEKRAALSTRAAT STRAAT B R E D E W E G
BIKO
PLEIN
SPITSKOP
DE
S T R A A T
NOUTS
SERVAES
STRAAT
T R A N S V A A L K A D E
S M I T
STRAAT
O S T A D E S T R A A T K
SARPH A TI P AR K PIJP S T R W I L L I B R O R D U S S T R A A T I m s t BURMAN DWA STR P L A T A N E N W E G E N W E G U G E L A W E G BRAND STR WET STRAAT P R E T O R I U S S T R A A T N E K S T R A A T TRANSVAAL R i n g v a a r t MI D DEN
BURMAN
S A R P H A T I P A R K STRAAT O S T A D E S T R A A T A A V A N K U I P E R S S T R A A T 58 >> e l WEESPERZIJDE GRENS T PRESIDENT S CHRISTIAAN DE KRUGERPLEIN KRU GERPLE I N MAJUBASTRAAT TRANSVAAL PLEIN STRAAT R I N G D I J K DREBBEL STR WAKKERSTRAAT WE
S I N T
REITZ
STRAAT
RUSTENBURGERSTRAAT
TRANSVAAL
ZACHARIAS
CORNELIS
STEVIN STR
V AEMSTEL
2e SWEELINCK
V A N T GIJSBRECHT JOUBERT STR TRAAT KRUGER STR STRAAT SIMON JANSESTRAAT
WILLEM
STR
BEUKELS
160-161_EW_Netherlands.indd 161 16/01/17 12:04 pm

162  A MSTERD A M STREE T FINDER

Street Finder Index

A Claes Claeszhofje 1 B3 Goudsbloemstraat 1 B3 K
Coehoornstraat, 1e 6 F2 Govert Flinckstraat 4 F4
Achter Oosteinde 5 B4 Commelinstraat 6 E3 Gravenstraat 2 D4 Kadijksplein 6 D1
Achtergracht 5 B3 Compagniestraat 6 E2 Gravesandestraat, ‘s- 6 D4 Kalkmarkt 2 F5
Admiralengracht 3 A1 Concertgebouwplein 4 D4 Gravesandeplein, ‘s- 6 D4 Kalverstraat 1 C5
Admiraliteitstraat 6 E2 Constantijn Grensstraat 5 C5 Karthuizersdwarsstraat 1 B3
Akoleienstraat 1 A4 Huygensstraat, 1e 3 C1 Groenburgwal 5 A2 Karthuizersplantsoen 1 B3
Alberdingk Thijmstraat 4 D2 Constantijn Groenmarktkade 1 A5 Karthuizersstraat 1 B3
Albert Cuypstraat 4 F4 Huygensstraat, 2e 3 C2 Grote Bickersstraat 1 C2 Kastanjeplein 6 E4
Alexander Boersstraat 4 D3 Cornelis Anthoniszstraat 4 E4 Grote Wittenburgerstraat 6 E1 Kastanjeweg 6 E4
Alexanderkade 6 E3 Cornelis Krusemanstraat 3 A5 Kattenburgergracht 6 D1
Alexanderplein 6 E3 Cornelis Schuytstraat 3 C4 Kattenburgerkade 6 D1
Amstel 5 A2 Costakade, Da 1 A5 H Kattenburgerkruisstraat 6 E1
Amsteldijk 5 B5 Costaplein, Da 1 A5 Haarlemmerdijk 1 B2 Kattenburgerstraat 6 D1
Amstelstraat 5 A2 Costastraat, Da 1 A5 Haarlemmerhouttuinen 1 C2 Kattenburgervaart 6 E1
Amstelveenseweg 3 A4 Cremerplein, JJ 3 A3 Haarlemmerplein 1 B2 Kattengat 2 D3
Cruquiuskade
6 F2
Amstelveld 5 A3 Cruquiusstraat 6 F2 Haarlemmerstraat 1 C3 Kattenlaan 3 B3
Andreas Bonnstraat 5 C4 Czaar Peterstraat 6 F2 Hacquartstraat 3 C4 Kazernestraat 6 E3
Anjeliersdwarsstraat, 1e 1 B3 Handboogstraat 4 F1 Keizersgracht 1 C3
Anjeliersdwarsstraat, 2e 1 B3 Hartenstraat 1 C5 Keizersstraat 2 E5
Kerkstraat
4 E1
Anjeliersstraat 1 B3 D Hasebroekstraat 3 B1 Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 4 E2
Anna Spenglerstraat 3 C2 Dam 2 D3 Hazenstraat 1 B5 Kleine Wittenburgerstraat 6 E1
Anna van den Damrak 2 D4 Heiligeweg 4 F1 Kloveniersburgwal 2 D5
Vondelstraat 3 C2 Damstraat 2 D5 Heintje Hoeksteeg 2 E4 Koestraat 2 E5
Anne Frankstraat 2 F5 Daniël de Langestraat 4 E5 Heinzestraat 4 D4 Konijnenstraat 1 B5
Apollolaan 3 B5 Daniël Stalpaertstraat 4 F4 Hekelveld 2 D3 Koninginneweg 3 A5
Arie Biemondstraat 3 B2 Dapperplein 6 F3 Helmersstraat, 1e 3 A3 Koningslaan 3 A4
Assendelftstraat 1 B1 Dapperstraat 6 F3 Helmersstraat, 2e 4 D2 Koningsplein 4 F1
Den Texstraat 5 A4 Helmersstraat, 3e 4 D2 Korte Keizersstraat 2 E5
B Deymanstraat 5 C4 Hemonylaan 5 B4 Korte Koningsstraat 2 E5
2 E5
Dijkstraat
Korte
Hemonystraat
5 B4
Bachstraat 4 D5 Dirk v. Hasseltssteeg 2 D4 Henri Polaklaan 5 C2 Leidsedwarsstraat 4 E2
Baerlestraat, Van 4 D3 Domselaerstraat 6 F4 Herengracht 1 C3 Korte Lepelstraat 5 C3
Bakkersstraat 5 A2 Driehoekstraat 1 B2 Herenmarkt 2 D3 Korte Marnixkade 1 B2
Balthasar Floriszstraat 4 E4 Driekoningenstraat 1 C4 Herenstraat 1 C3 Korte Niezel 2 E4
Banstraat 3 C4 Droogbak 2 D3 Hobbemakade 4 E5 Kromboomssloot 2 E5
Barentszstraat 1 C1 Dufaystraat 3 B4 Hobbemastraat 4 E3
Barndesteeg 2 E5 Hondecoeterstraat 4 D4 L
Beethovenstraat 4 D5 E Honthorststraat 4 E3
Begijnhof 1 C5 Hoogte Kadijk 6 D1 Laagte Kadijk 6 D1
Beijersweg 6 F5 Eeghenlaan, Van 4 D3 Hortusplantsoen 5 C2 Lairessestraat, De 3 B5
Berenstraat 1 B5 Eeghenstraat, Van 3 C4 Houtmankade 1 B1 Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 4 E2
Bergstraat 1 C4 Egelantiersgracht 1 B4 Lange Niezel 2 E4
Beukenplein 6 D4 Egelantiersstraat 1 B4 Houtmanstraat 1 B1 Langestraat 1 C4
Huddekade
5 B4
Beukenweg 6 D4 Eggertstraat 2 D4 Lassusstraat 3 B4
Beulingstraat 4 F1 Eikenplein 6 E4 Huddestraat 5 C4 Laurierdwarsstraat, 1e 1 B5
Beursplein 2 D4 Eikenweg 6 E4 Hugo de Grootkade 1 A4 Laurierdwarsstraat, 2e 1 B5
Beursstraat 2 D4 Eilandsgracht 1 C2 Hugo de Grootstraat, Lauriergracht 1 A5
Bickersgracht 1 C2 Elandsgracht 1 B5 1e 1 A4 Laurierstraat 1 A5
Bijltjespad 6 D1 Elandsstraat 1 A5 Hugo de Grootstraat, Leeghwaterstraat, 1e 6 F1
Bilderdijkstraat 3 C1 Emmalaan 3 B4 2e 1 A4 Leeghwaterstraat, 2e 6 F1
Binnen Dommersstraat 1 B2 Emmaplein 3 B4 Huidekoperstraat 5 A4 Leidsegracht 4 E1
Binnengasthuisstraat 5 A2 Emmastraat 3 C4 Huidenstraat 4 E1 Leidsekade 4 D1
Binnenkant 2 E4 Enge Lombardsteeg 2 D5 Leidsekruisstraat 4 E2
Binnen Oranjestraat 1 C2 Entrepotdok 6 D2 I Leidseplein 4 E2
Blankenstraat 6 F2 Leidsestraat 4 E1
Blauwburgwal 1 C4 F IJplein 2 F2 Leliedwarsstraat, 1e 1 B4
Bloedstraat 2 E5 Ite Boeremastraat 3 C2 Leliedwarsstraat, 2e 1 B4
Bloemdwarsstraat, 1e 1 B4 Falckstraat 5 A4 Leliedwarsstraat, 3e 1 A4
Bloemdwarsstraat, 2e 1 B4 Ferdinand Bolstraat 4 F5 J Leliegracht 1 B4
Bloemgracht 1 A4 Foeliestraat 2 F5 Lepelkruisstraat 5 C3
Bloemstraat 1 A4 Fokke Simonszstraat 5 A4 Jacob Obrechtplein 4 D4 Lepelstraat 5 B3
Blokmakerstraat 1 C2 Frans Halsstraat 4 F4 Jacob Obrechtstraat 3 C3 Lijnbaansgracht 1 A5
Boerenwetering 4 E5 Frans van Mierisstraat 4 D4 Jacob v. Campenstraat, 1e 4 F3 Lijnbaansstraat 1 A5
Boerhaaveplein 6 D4 Frederik Hendrikstraat 1 A4 Jacob v. Campenstraat, 2e 5 A4 Lindengracht 1 B3
Boerhaavestraat, 1e 5 C4 Frederiksplein 5 A4 Jan Hanzenstraat 3 B1 Lindenstraat 1 B3
Boerhaavestraat, 2e 5 C4 Frederiksstraat 3 A3 Lindendwarsstraat, 1e 1 B3
Bonairestraat 3 A3 Funenkade 6 F2 Jan Luijkenstraat 4 D3 Lindendwarsstraat, 2e 1 B3
Boomdwarsstraat, 1e 1 B3 Jan Pieter Heijestraat 3 B2 Linnaeusplantsoen 6 F4
Boomdwarsstraat, 2e 1 B3 G Jan Steenstraat, 1e 4 F4 Linnaeusstraat 6 E3
Boomstraat 1 B3 Jan Steenstraat, 2e 5 B5 Lomanstraat 3 A5
Borgerstraat 3 A2 Gabriel Metsustraat 4 E4 Jan van der Looiersdwarsstraat, 3e 4 D1
Bosboom Toussaintstraat 4 D1 Galgenstraat 1 C1 Heijdenstraat, 1e 4 F4 Looiersgracht 4 D1
Boulevardpad 6 E2 Gedempte Begijnensloot 1 C5 Jan van der Louise Wentstraat 6 E3
Breestraat, Van 3 C4 Geldersekade 2 E4 Heijdenstraat, 2e 5 A5
Breitnerstraat 3 C5 Genestetstraat, De 4 D1 Jan van Goyenkade 3 B5 M
Brouwersgracht 1 B2 Gerard Brandtstraat 3 B2 Jan Willem
Gerard Doustraat 4 F4 Brouwersstraat 4 D4 Maarten Jansz.
C Gerard Terborgstraat 4 E5 Jodenbreestraat 2 E5 Kosterstraat 5 B4
Gerrit van der Veenstraat 3 C5 Jodenhouttuinen 2 E5 Madelievenstraat 1 B4
Camperstraat 6 D4 Gietersstraat 1 B3 Johannes Verhulststraat 3 B4 Manegestraat 5 C3
Ceintuurbaan 4 F5 Gijsbrecht v. Aemstelstraat 5 C5 Johannes Vermeerstraat 4 E4 Marnixkade 1 A4
162-163_EW_Netherlands.indd 162 16/01/17 12:04 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Streetfinder index template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1)
Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

A MSTERD A M STREE T FINDER  163


Marnixplantsoen, 1e 1 B2 Oudezijds Kolk 2 E4 Runstraat 4 E1 Verversstraat 5 A2
Marnixstraat 1 A4 Oudezijds Voorburgwal 2 D5 Rusland 2 D5 Vierwindenstraat 1 C1
Martelaarsgracht 2 D3 Overhaalsgang 6 D2 Ruysdaelkade 4 E5 Vijverstraat, Van der 6 F4
Martin Vlaarkade 1 B1 Overtoom 3 A3 Ruysdaelstraat 4 D4 Vijzelgracht 4 F3
Mary Zeldenruststraat 6 D4 Vijzelstraat 4 F2
Mauritskade 5 C4 P S Vinkenstraat 1 B2
Mauritsstraat 5 C4 Viottastraat, JJ 3 C4
Michelangelostraat 3 C5 Paardenstraat 5 A2 Saenredamstraat 4 F4 Visserplein, mr. 5 B2
Middenweg 6 F5 Palamedesstraat 4 D2 Sajetplein 6 D4 Voetboogstraat 4 F1
Miereveldstraat, Van 4 E4 Paleisstraat 1 C5 Sarphatikade 5 B4 Vondelkerkstraat 3 A3
Molenpad 4 E1 Palestrinastraat 4 D4 Sarphatipark 5 A5
Moreelsestraat 4 E4 Palmdwarsstraat 1 B2 Sarphatistraat 5 B4 Vondelstraat 3 C3
Mozes en Aäronstraat 1 C4 Palmgracht 1 B2 Saxenburgerstraat 3 A3 Voormalige
Muiderstraat 5 B2 Palmstraat 1 B2 Saxen Weimarlaan 4 A4 Stadstimmertuin 5 B3
Museumplein 4 E3 Parelstraat 6 E1 Schapenburgerpad 4 D3 Vossiusstraat 4 D3
Musschenbroekstraat, Van 5 C4 Passeerdersgracht 4 D1 Schippersgracht 5 C1 Vrolikstraat 6 D5
Passeerdersstraat 4 D1 Schippersstraat 2 F4
N Paulus Potterstraat 4 D3 Schoolstraat 3 A3 W
P.C. Hooftstraat 4 D3 Servaes Noutsstraat 5 B5
Nassaukade 1 B2 Pieter Baststraat 4 E4 Simon Stevinstraat 6 F5 Waaigat 6 E1
Nassauplein 1 B1 Pieter de Hoochstraat 4 E4 Singel 1 C4 Waalseilandsgracht 2 E4
Nes 2 D5 Pieter Jacobszstraat 2 D5 Singelgracht 1 B2 Wagenaarstraat 6 E3
Nicolaas Beetsstraat 3 B2 Pieter Lastmankade 3 A5 Slijkstraat 2 D5 Waldeck Pyrmontlaan 3 A4
Nicolaas Berchemstraat 5 A4 Pieter Nieuwlandstraat 6 F3 Sloterdijkstraat 1 B1 Wanningstraat 4 D4
Nicolaas Maesstraat 4 D4 Pieter Pauwstraat 5 A4 Sluyspad, Dr DM 5 B2 Warmoesstraat 2 D4
Nicolaas Witsenkade 5 A4 Pieter Vlamingstraat 6 F3 Smitstraat 6 E5 Waterlooplein 5 B2
Nicolaas Witsenstraat 5 A4 Pijlsteeg 2 D5 Sophialaan 3 A5 Weesperstraat 5 B3
Nieuwe Achtergracht 5 C3 Planciusstraat 1 B1 Spaarndammerstraat 1 B1 Weesperzijde 5 C4
Nieuwe Amstelstraat 5 B2 Plantage Badlaan 6 D3 Sparrenweg 6 D4 Westeinde 5 A4
Nieuwe Batavierstraat 2 E5 Plantage Doklaan 6 D2 Speerstraat 3 B5 Westerdok 1 C1
Nieuwebrugsteeg 2 E4 Plantagekade 6 D2 Speijkstraat, Van 3 A1 Westerdoksdijk 2 D1
Nieuwe Doelenstraat 5 A2 Plantage Kerklaan 5 C2 Spiegelgracht 4 F2 Westerdokskade 2 D2
Nieuwe Foeliestraat 5 C1 Plantage Lepellaan 6 D3 Spinhuissteeg 2 D5 Westerkade 1 A4
Nieuwe Herengracht 5 B2 Plantage Middenlaan 6 D2 Spinozastraat 5 C4
Nieuwe Hoogstraat 2 E5 Plantage Muidergracht 5 C2 Spui 4 F1 Westermarkt 1 B4
Nieuwe Keizersgracht 5 B3 Plantage Parklaan 5 C2 Spuistraat 1 C5 Westerpark 1 B1
Nieuwe Kerkstraat 5 B3 Plantage Westermanlaan 6 D2 Staalstraat 5 A2 Westerstraat 1 B3
Nieuwe Leliestraat 1 A4 Platanenweg 6 D5 Stadhouderskade 4 D2 Westzaanstraat 1 B1
Nieuwe Looiersstraat 4 F3 Polderweg 6 F4 Stadionweg 4 E5 Weteringdwarsstraat, 1e 4 F2
Nieuwendijk 2 D4 Pontanusstraat 6 F3 St Annenstraat 2 D4 Weteringdwarsstraat, 2e 4 F2
Nieuwe Nieuwstraat 2 D4 Poolstraat 6 E1 St Antoniesbreestraat 2 E5 Weteringdwarsstraat, 3e 4 F2
Nieuwe Oostenburgerstraat 6 E1 Potgieterstraat 1 A5 Star Hofje, De 1 C3 Weteringlaan 4 F3
Nieuwe Passeerdersstraat 4 D1 Prinseneiland 1 C1 Stationsplein 2 E3 Weteringplantsoen, 1e 4 F3
Nieuwe Prinsengracht 5 B3 Prinseneilandsgracht 1 C1 St Barberenstraat 2 D5 Weteringplantsoen, 2e 4 F3
Nieuwe Ridderstraat 2 E4 Prinsengracht 1 C3 St Jacobsstraat 2 D4 Weteringschans 4 E2
Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 4 F2 Prinsenstraat 1 C3 St Jansstraat 2 D4 Weteringstraat 4 F2
Nieuwe Teertuinen 1 B1 Prins Hendrikkade 2 D3 St Luciënsteeg 1 C5 WG-plein 3 C2
Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 2 E5 Prins Hendriklaan 3 A4 St Nicolaasstraat 2 D4 Wibautstraat 5 C4
Nieuwe Wagenstraat 1 B2 Prof. Tulpplein 5 B4 Stromarkt 2 D3 Wijde Lombardsteeg 2 D5
Nieuwe Westerdokstraat 2 D3 Prof. Tulpstraat 5 B4 St Willibrordusstraat 5 B5 Wijdesteeg 1 C5
Nieuwe Weteringstraat 4 F3 Swammerdamstraat 5 C4 Wijttenbachstraat 6 F4
Nieuwezijds Armsteeg 2 D3 Q Sweelinckstraat, 1e 5 A5 Wilhelminastraat 3 A3
Nieuwezijds Kolk 2 D4 Sweelinckstraat, 2e 5 A5
Nieuwezijds Quellijnstraat 4 F4 Swindenstraat, 1e van 6 F3 Willemsparkweg 3 C4
Voorburgwal 1 C5 Swindenstraat. 2e van 6 E3 Willemsstraat 1 B3
Nieuwmarkt 2 E5 R Willem Witsenstraat 3 C5
Noorderkerkstraat 1 C3 T Windrooskade 6 E1
Noordermarkt 1 C3 Raadhuisstraat 1 C4 Windroosplein 6 E1
Noorderstraat 4 F2 Raamgracht 2 E5 Taanstraat 1 C1 Witte de Withstraat 3 A1
Noordtgracht, Van 1 B1 Raamstraat 4 E1 Teniersstraat 4 E3 Wittenburgerdwarsstraat, 2e 6 E1
Noordtkade, Van 1 B1 Rapenburg 2 F5 Ter Gouwstraat 6 F4 Wittenburgergracht 6 D1
Rapenburgerplein 2 F5 Tesselschadestraat 4 D2 Wittenburgerkade 6 E1
O Rapenburgerstraat 5 C2 Thorbeckeplein 5 A2 Wittenburgervaart 6 E1
Realengracht 1 C1 Tichelstraat 1 B3 Wolvenstraat 1 C5
Oetewalerpad 6 F4 Rechtboomssloot 2 E5 Tilanusstraat 5 C4 Woustraat, Van 5 B5
Oetewalerstraat 6 F4 Reestraat 1 B5 Titiaanstraat 3 B5 Wouwermanstraat 4 D4
Olympiakade 3 A5 Reguliersbreestraat 5 A2 Tollensstraat 3 C1
Olympiaplein 3 B5 Reguliersdwarsstraat 4 F1 Touwbaan 6 E1 Z
Olympiastraat 3 B5 Reguliersgracht 5 A3 Touwslagerstraat 1 C2
Olympiaweg 3 B5 Reijnier Vinkeleskade 4 D5 Tuinstraat 1 B4 Zaandijkstraat 1 B1
Onbekendegracht 5 B3 Reinwardtstraat 6 F4 Turfsteeg 5 B2
Oosteinde 5 B4 Rembrandtplein 5 A2 Tussen Kadijken 6 D1 Zacharias Jansestraat 6 F5
Oostenburgergracht 6 E2 Rensselaerstraat, Van 3 A2 Zandhoek 1 C1
Oostenburgerkade 6 F1 3 A3 U Zandpad 4 D2
Oostenburgerpark 6 E2 Reyer Anslostraat Zandstraat 2 E5
Oostenburgervaart 6 F1 Rhijnvis Feithstraat 3 A3 Uilenburgergracht 2 F5 Zeeburgerdijk 6 F2
Oostenburgervoorstraat 6 E2 Rijtuigenhof 3 B3 Utrechtsedwarsstraat 5 A3 Zeeburgerpad 6 F2
Oosterdokskade 2 F4 Roelof Hartplein 4 E4 Utrechtsestraat 5 A3 Zeeburgerstraat 6 F2
Oosterpark 6 E4 Roelof Hartstraat 4 E5 Zeedijk 2 E4
Oostersekade 2 F5 Roemer Visscherstraat 4 D2 Zeilmakerstraat 1 C2
Oosterspoorplein 6 F4 Rokin 2 D5 V Zesenstraat, Von 6 E3
Oranje Nassaulaan 3 A4 Roomolenstraat 2 D3 Zieseniskade 4 E2
Oude Doelenstraat 2 D5 Rozendwarsstraat, 1e 1 B5 Valckenierstraat 5 C3
Oude Hoogstraat 2 D5 Rozendwarsstraat, 2e 1 A5 Valeriusplein 3 B5 Zocherstraat 3 A3
Oude Looiersstraat 1 B5 Rozengracht 1 A5 Valeriusstraat 3 A5 Zon’s Hofje 1 C3
Oudeschans 2 E5 Rozenstraat 1 A5 Valkenburgerstraat 2 F5 Zoutkeetsgracht 1 C1
Oude Waal 2 E4 Rubensstraat 3 C5 Veldestraat, Van de 4 D3 Zoutkeetsplein 1 C1
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 2 D5 Ruijterkade, De 2 E3 Vendelstraat 5 A2 Zwanenburgwal 5 A2
Each place name is followed by its arrondissement number and then by its Street Finder reference
162-163_EW_Netherlands.indd 163 16/01/17 12:04 pm

164-165_EW_Netherlands.indd 164 16/01/17 12:04 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

WESTERN


NETHERLANDS





Introducing the Western
Netherlands 166–173
North Holland 174–195
Utrecht 196–211

South Holland 212–245
Zeeland 246–259













































164-165_EW_Netherlands.indd 165 16/01/17 12:04 pm

166  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Western Netherlands at a Glance
Den Helder
The landscape of the Western Netherlands is strongly influenced
by the old ports and commercial towns, which claim a Wieringerwerf
prosperous past. During the 20th century, the most important
ones grew together to form the Randstad (see pp170–71). But Callantsoog
you can still find plenty of quiet outside the cities – in Europe’s
biggest coastal dune area, boasting its distinct flora and fauna; Enkhuizen
along the Vecht, with its pretty country houses; and along rivers
such as the Vlist and the Linge. Main watersports areas are
Zeeland, on the IJsselmeer and the lakes in the peat region. Hoorn
Alkmaar
NORTH
HOLLAND
The Gothic Sint Bavo Church in Haarlem (See pp174–95)
(see p188), known colloquially as the Grote Purmerend
Kerk, was built between 1400 and 1550. Zaanstad
This gigantic building dominates the Grote
Markt. Sint Bavo has one of the finest organs
in Europe, built by Christiaan Müller. Haarlem
AMSTERDAM
(See pp64–163)

Amstelveen
Aalsmeer
Hilversum
Leiden Amersfoort
Alphen aan
den Rijn UTRECHT
Utrecht (See pp196–211)
The Hague
Woerden
Delft SOUTH Gouda Veenendaal
HOLLAND
The Mauritshuis at The Hague (see pp226–7) was (See pp212–45)
built by Pieter Post in 1644 as instructed by Rhenen
Johan Maurits van Nassau, in the style of North Brielle Rotterdam
Netherlands Neo-Classicism. Since 1821 it has
been the home of the royal painting collection. Ridderkerk
This compact collection includes a number of Goedereede
first-rate works by old masters, including Hellevoetsluis
Rembrandt, Jan Steen and Johannes Vermeer. Dordecht
Westenschouwen
Zierikzee



Middelburg Goes
Vlissingen ZEELAND
(See pp246–59)


Construction of the Oosterschelde Terneuzen
Stormvloedkering (storm surge barrier) Hulst
(see pp250–51) was prompted by the disastrous Sluis
floods of 1953. To combat the water while
preserving the unique mud-flat bed of the
Oosterschelde, a half-open multiple buttress
dam with 62 sliding gates was built.
Colourful rooftops of Utrecht city, as seen from the Dom tower



166-167_EW_Netherlands.indd 166 16/01/17 11:54 am

INTRODUCING THE WESTERN NE THERLANDS  167



Den Helder

Wieringerwerf
Callantsoog


Enkhuizen
The Zuiderzeemuseum in Enkhuizen (see pp180–81)
Hoorn is dedicated to the history of the fishing ports of
Alkmaar the Zuiderzee. Access to the North Sea was closed
NORTH off in 1932 by the Afsluitdijk (barrier dam). Enkhuizen
HOLLAND is enjoying renewed prosperity with the opening
(See pp174–95) of the museum and the conversion of the fishing
port to a marina.
Zaanstad Purmerend

Haarlem
AMSTERDAM
(See pp64–163)

Amstelveen
Aalsmeer
Hilversum
Leiden Amersfoort
Alphen aan
den Rijn UTRECHT Gouda (see p243) is one of the
Utrecht (See pp196–211)
The Hague many commercial towns in
Woerden the Western Netherlands that
Delft SOUTH Gouda Veenendaal also has its prime position on
the waterways to thank for its
HOLLAND
(See pp212–45) Rhenen period of prosperity. The spirit
of liberalism prevalent in Gouda
Brielle Rotterdam during the 16th and 17th
centuries protected the
Ridderkerk magnificent St Janskerk from
Goedereede Hellevoetsluis the Iconoclasm, meaning
Dordecht that the Gouda stained glass is
still here to be enjoyed today.
Westenschouwen
Zierikzee
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10

Middelburg Goes
Vlissingen ZEELAND
(See pp246–59) The Rietveld Schröderhuis in
Utrecht (see pp208–9) is a famous
example of “nieuwe bouwen”
(new building). It was Rietveld’s
first complete architectural work
Terneuzen
Hulst and reveals his background as a
Sluis furniture maker. At the time it
was considered to be radically
modern. Visitors nowadays are
struck by the modesty and
human proportions of the house.



166-167_EW_Netherlands.indd 167 16/01/17 11:54 am

168  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


Reclaimed Land

The Netherlands is continually increasing in size. Various
methods of reclaiming land have been employed as far back
as the 11th century. One fairly simple method was to build
a dyke around a marshy area. Later, deep lakes were drained
with the help of windmills. The far-reaching IJsselmeer
polders – fertile farmlands – were created after the Zuiderzee
was closed off using ingenious reclamation methods. Even
now, huge efforts are being made to extend areas of To create a polder, a ditch
was first dredged. The
reclaimed land – hence the new Amsterdam residential dredgings were used to
area of IJburg, which has sprung up from the IJmeer. build up the dyke.
Gradual Drainage
To overcome the height difference Middle
between the polder and the ring windmill
canal, which is sometimes large, Lower
windmill
the water is continually raised
metre by metre by three windmills
placed in a row, known as a
driegang or row of three.
Because a polder lies
some metres below sea Lower
level, the ground water reservoir
level is always very
high and has to be
continually drained. Polder
canal





Land Reclamation
About 3,000 years ago, houses were built on mounds so
that they would not be flooded when the water rose. As far
back as the 4th to 8th centuries, dykes were built around
the houses and land. Land reclamation was carried out on
a large scale from the 11th century, when the population
increased sharply. In the 17th and 18th centuries, deeper
lakes were drained with the help of rows of windmills. The
steam engine meant a new phase of land reclamation: it Many dyke houses are facing a threat
was now finally possible to control the Haarlemmermeer. to their continued existence because
It is thought that, in Leeghwater’s time, at least 160 of the raising of the river dykes.
windmills were necessary for this. In 1891, the engineer
C Lely put forward a plan to close off the treacherous
Zuiderzee. This only actually happened in 1932, when the
Afsluitdijk (barrier dam) was completed. Construction of
the IJsselmeer polders then got underway.


The Markermeer in the IJsselmeer has
become congested with mud and silt.
Vereniging Natuurmonumenten is
cre ating islands using mud from the lake,
thus cleaning up the water and develop­
ing a viable habitat for flora and fauna.
The old port of Schokland (see p330) now lies firmly on the mainland It will be open for visitors from 2020.





168-169_EW_Netherlands.indd 168 16/01/17 11:54 am

INTRODUCING THE WESTERN NE THERLANDS  169



This view is of the
oldest polder in
North Holland
(anonymous, c.1600).
The West Friesland
Omringdijk, which
runs around Het
Grootslag, is 126 km
(78 miles) long and
was completed as far
back as 1250. North
Holland ceased to
exist to the north
of the dyke.

Upper At low tide the
windmill ring canal can
drain the water
The ring pumped out of
dyke stems the polder.
the water
from the ring
Archimedes’ canal.
screw
Seepage In the 16th century,
Middle channel Jan Adriaansz.
reservoir Leeghwater invented
a system that used
windmills to drain a
lake after a ring canal
had been constructed
around it. This meant
that it became relatively
easy to pump dry
deeper and larger lakes,
giving rise to the first
pieces of reclaimed land.
Conquering the Sea
God created the earth – except Holland, for the Dutch did that. This statement by the French poet
Voltaire comes close to the truth. This is because since the 14th century, the surface area of the
Netherlands has increased by approximately 10 per cent, thanks to land reclamation. Land continues
to be extended today, with the construction, for example, of IJburg, a new area of Amsterdam, which
was built on an island in the IJmeer.















1900 Thanks to the steam engine,
1860 Land could be drained increasingly lower-lying polders, 2000 The new Amsterdam district of
only by using windmills. such as the Zuidplaspolder, at -6.74 IJburg is built in the IJmeer using the
Limited areas were reclaimed. m (-22 ft), could be drained. most modern methods available.






168-169_EW_Netherlands.indd 169 16/01/17 11:54 am

170  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


The Randstad

It appears that the term Randstad (literally, “rim
city”) was introduced by Albert Plesman, managing
director of Dutch airline KLM, which was
established in 1919. Apparently he pointed out
to the passengers on one of his airplanes the
horseshoe-shaped band of towns formed by
Utrecht, Amsterdam, Haarlem, Leiden, The
Hague, Rotterdam and Dordrecht. The relatively
undeveloped area in the middle was quickly By 2025 the population in the Randstad is
named the Groene Hart (“green heart”). set to grow by 700,000.
Groene Hart
The Groene Hart is a man-made landscape formed from an
association with water that has lasted for centuries. It is
characterized by elongated pieces of reclaimed land, peat lakes
and river landscape with marshes and pools. The most important
agrarian activity is dairy-cattle breeding; the cheese produced
here is world-famous. Environmental organizations are dedicated
to developing and protecting natural resources and historical
landscapes. In De Venen, which surrounds the Nieuwkoopse and
Vinkeveense lakes, a project is underway to combine extensive
arable farming, natural development of the environment, and
recreation facilities. It is hoped that this type of project will
provide a balance to urbanization.

Hiking and cycling
paths have been
erected throughout
the Groene Hart.
They pass dairy farms,
windmills and old
villages. Visit the local
VVV (tourist board) for
more information on
recreational paths.

Congestion is a major problem. During
rush hour periods, the Randstad is
clogged by traffic jams. The government
is trying to reduce congestion on the
roads by improving public transport and
introducing other measures, such as road
pricing. Up until now, this has not met
with much success. The number of cars
in the Randstad is constantly increasing.
Transferiums, or park-and-rides, are
meant to free up the town centres,
which often still have old infrastructure
and are not geared to a lot of traffic.



Car-pooling is another way
of reducing the number of
cars. Over 750,000 people
have car-pooled in the
last few years.





170-171_EW_Netherlands.indd 170 16/01/17 11:54 am

INTRODUCING THE WESTERN NE THERLANDS  171


IJburg is a new
district, built on the Growth of the Randstad
IJmeer to the east
of Amsterdam. As far back as the end of the 15th
Another plan century, the Western Netherlands was
for municipal one of the most urbanized regions of
expansion into the Europe. It was only during the 20th
water is Nieuw century that the borders between the
Holland, a long, towns became blurred and what is
narrow piece of now known as the Randstad emerged.
land in front of the At present 6.5 million people live here.
coast between
Scheveningen and
Hoek van Holland.
Amsterdam
The Hague Groene
Hart Utrecht
Rotterdam


Randstad around 1900


Amsterdam

The Hague Groene
Hart Utrecht
Rotterdam


Randstad around 1950

Amsterdam

The Hague Groene Utrecht
Hart
Rotterdam



Randstad around 2000
In contrast, the Groene Hart has only
600,000 inhabitants. Earnings in the
Randstad account for half of the gross
national product. The main product is
provision of services, with Amsterdam
as the financial centre, The Hague as
Schiphol was, in the last decade, the fastest-growing airport the administrative centre, Hilversum
in Europe. It benefits from a central location – close to as the focus of the audiovisual
many of Holland’s major cities – and good rail and road media and Rotterdam-Rijnmond and
connections. Expansion of the airport was halted by the Schiphol as an important port and
objections of residents and environmental groups, but after airport respectively.
considering other locations, such as an artificial island in the
North Sea, Schiphol will indeed expand into adjacent areas.





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172  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


Dunes

The Dutch coast is famous for its dunes. These
natural sea walls, with a vegetation of their own,
were used in earlier times as common ground
for cattle grazing (the oerol, see p278) in the
absence of sufficient grassland. They now play
an important role in the purification of water.
The dunes are also a particularly popular
recreational area – many of the protected dune
areas are open to ramblers and cyclists.

A catamaran on the beach
The sea supplies the On the beach, the dry, A sea inlet is formed when
sand from which the white sand drifts and the sea breaks through the
dunes are built. piles up. row of dunes.















Marram grass is a sturdy plant whose
root system holds new dunes together. It
plays an important role in the formation
and protection of Holland’s dunes.








Nature Reserves
The dunes are being used less and less as areas for water
collection, meaning that the groundwater level is rising
again and the damp dunes can once again be
established. Protected against such environmentally
damaging influences as industry and land development,
they are becoming important nature reserves where
Water collection is done by way of the
dunes, which retain the fresh water that there is a great deal for hikers and cyclists to enjoy.
falls inside them in the form of Vegetation includes gorse, spindle trees, creeping willow
precipitation. Drinking water has been and hawthorn. Resident and migratory birds, such as
collected since the 19th century from the curlews, tawny pipits and sometimes ospreys, inhabit
dunes of North and South Holland (such the dunes. During World War II, anti-tank trenches with
as at Meyendel, near Wassenaar, pictured steep banks were built in the Midden-Heeren dunes
above), helping to eliminate diseases like (in Nationaal Park Zuid-Kennemerland). Today, even
cholera from densely populated cities. the rare kingfisher feels at home there.





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INTRODUCING THE WESTERN NE THERLANDS  173



Rabbits may look
cute, but they have
been known to
seriously undermine
the dunes with their
intricate network
of burrows.

Origins
Dunes are created by a process which can be
seen time and time again during a stormy day
on the country’s long, flat beaches. The sand
carried by the sea dries on the surface of the
The Dutch coast seriously damaged by storms beach and is then dragged by the wind like a
white shroud over the beach. Held back by
A sea inlet is formed when The first row of dunes, golden The dune valleys any obstacles in its way, the sand starts to
the sea breaks through the in colour because of the have their own
row of dunes. overgrowth, has higher summits. particular vegetation. accumulate. If the obstacle is a plant, a dune
begins to form. Plants involved in forming
dunes are called pioneer plants. They must be
able to tolerate being buried by the sand and
also be able to grow back through the sand.
Sand couch grass (Elymus farctus) is renowned
for being one such plant. After the initial dune
formation, marram grass often begins to
stabilize the new dune with its enormous
root system. Dunes along the coast of the
Netherlands can become as high as 10 m
(33 ft). The dunes here – new dunes – were
formed after 1200. When the sea breaks
through dunes which have collapsed or have
been cut through, it creates a sea inlet, or
channel, around which an entire vegetation
system develops, attracting all types of birds.










Sea holly and bee Common sea buckthorn

The sea inlet The dune overgrowth
surface is home to becomes richer as it moves
many types of bird.
inland, as limestone is
replaced by humus.
The Beachcomber gazes out
to sea near the North Holland
Camperduin, at the start of the
Hondsbossche sea wall. The wall
was constructed in the 19th century
when the sea broke through the
dunes. The lessons learned from this
were used when building North Bulb fields are evidence that the bulbs thrive in the
Holland’s Noorder‑ kwartier sandy dune soil. The blooms’ vivid colours are a pretty
(north district). contrast to the yellowish‑grey colour of the dunes.





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174-175_EW_Netherlands.indd 174 16/01/17 12:04 pm

WESTERN NE THERLANDS  175

NORTH

HOLLAND


Although North Holland’s landscape is mainly flat, it is by
no means featureless. Low-lying polders, with windmills
and grazing cows, give way to market gardens and
colourful bulb fields. Around Amsterdam the land is more
built-up, with lively towns and picturesque villages almost cheek by jowl.
North Holland has always been one canals; one connects Zaandam to Den
of the most important areas of the Helder in the north, while the other,
Netherlands economically, due to its the important North Sea Canal, gives
industry, fishing and commerce. The Amsterdam’s busy port access to the
Zuiderzee ports played a major part North Sea at IJmuiden. Land reclamation,
in the voyages of the Dutch East India at which the Dutch excel, has been
Company (see p52), and their merchants going on since the 14th century, and
became wealthy from the trade in exotic many historical island communities
imports. They built splendid houses and are now surrounded by dry land.
filled them with expensive furniture and Tourism is a major industry in North
fine art, much of which has found its way Holland, with Schiphol, the coun try’s
into the province’s leading museums. major airport, at its heart. The North Sea
This part of the country has learned coast has a string of delightful resorts and
to live with and profit from water. The sea-front hotels among the dunes, while
province is bordered by it on three sides, in the communities on the IJsselmeer
with the unpredictable North Sea to the such as Edam, famous for its cheese, and
west and the vast IJsselmeer (formerly picturesque Volendam, you can still find
the Zuiderzee) to the east. The flat land villagers wearing traditional costume
in between is bisected by two major and the famous Dutch wooden clogs.


























Enkhuizen, a fine historical fishing town on the IJsselmeer
IJsselmeer Dam in the northern Netherlands



174-175_EW_Netherlands.indd 175 14/03/2017 15:04

176  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring North Holland

The landscape of North Holland is varied and contains many old buildings
and fine museums. The province can be easily explored on day trips from
Amsterdam but areas such as West Friesland and Het Gooi, a woodland east DEN HELDER
of Amsterdam, are worth a longer visit. You can also alternate sightseeing Den Oever
with more relaxing activities such as walking in the beautiful nature reserve
de Kennemerduinen (Kennemer dunes) near Zandvoort, sailing on the Julianadorp
IJsselmeer or sunbathing on one of the many beaches. Round trips through
Noordhollands Kanaal Schagen Middenmeer IJsselmeer
towns or on rivers are also good ways of exploring the province. Breezand
Callantsoog Wieringerwerf





MEDEMBLIK

Abbekerk Wervershoof Andijk ZUIDERZEE MUSEUM
Schoorl Noord- W E S T FRIESLA N D ENKHUIZEN
Scharwoude Hoogkarspel
Wognum
Heerhugowaard
HOORN
Oudorp
The working windmills on the Zaanse Schans ALKMAAR Avenhorn Schellinkhout
EGMOND NOORD-
Getting Around Heiloo HOLLAND Oosthuizen
During rush hour, roads around the large towns in the southern Mar k er meer
part of the province are fairly congested. Parking is also difficult DE BEEMSTER
to find in most of the larger towns and as bus and train Middenbeemster
connections in the area are good, it’s often better to leave the car Uitgeest Purmerend
behind. The northern part of North Holland is also easily reached EDAM
by public transport or by car on the A7 and A9 motorways. The HEEMSKERK JISP VOLENDAM
natural landscape of North Holland lends itself to countless
footpaths and cycle routes, each with different characteristics. ZAANSE SCHANS MARKEN
Bicycles can be hired from most of the region’s train stations. VELSEN/ MONNICKENDAM
IJMUIDEN Koog aan
den Zaan
Santpoort Noordzee Kanaal Zaanstad BROEK-IN-
Sights at a Glance Bloemendaal WATERLAND
1 Marken o Velsen/IJmuiden
2 Monnickendam p Zandvoort HAARLEM Zwanenburg AMSTERDAM
3 Volendam a Cruquius ZANDVOORT
4 Edam s Ouderkerk aan de Amstel Badhoevedorp
5 Jisp d Aalsmeer CRUQUIUS Diemen MUIDEN
6 Zaanse Schans f Amstelveen AMSTELVEEN
7 De Beemster g Muiden Hoofddorp NAARDERMEER Huizen
8 Zuiderzee Museum h Naarden OUDERKERK NAARDEN
pp180–81 j ’s-Graveland AAN DE AMSTEL Bussum Blaricum
9 Enkhuizen k Hilversum LAREN
0 Hoorn l Naardermeer AALSMEER ’s-GRAVELAND
q Broek-in-Waterland z Laren HILVERSUM
w Medemblik
e Den Helder Tour
t Alkmaar r West Friesland
y Haarlem
u Egmond
i Heemskerk
For map symbols see back flap


176-177_EW_Netherlands.indd 176 16/01/17 11:54 am

NOR TH HOLLAND  177






DEN HELDER
Den Oever

Julianadorp
Noordhollands Kanaal Schagen Middenmeer IJsselmeer De Koepoort in Enkhuizen, built in 1649
Callantsoog Breezand Wieringerwerf





MEDEMBLIK

Abbekerk Wervershoof Andijk ZUIDERZEE MUSEUM
Schoorl Noord- W E S T FRIESLA N D ENKHUIZEN
Scharwoude Hoogkarspel
Wognum
Heerhugowaard
HOORN
ALKMAAR Oudorp Avenhorn Schellinkhout
EGMOND NOORD-
Heiloo HOLLAND Oosthuizen

Mar k er meer
DE BEEMSTER
Middenbeemster
Uitgeest
Purmerend EDAM
JISP
HEEMSKERK VOLENDAM
ZAANSE SCHANS
MARKEN
VELSEN/ MONNICKENDAM Traditional farm in the “De Beemster” region
IJMUIDEN Koog aan
den Zaan
Santpoort Noordzee Kanaal Zaanstad BROEK-IN-
WATERLAND
Bloemendaal
0 kilometres 10
HAARLEM Zwanenburg AMSTERDAM 0 miles 10
ZANDVOORT
Badhoevedorp
CRUQUIUS Diemen MUIDEN
AMSTELVEEN Key
Hoofddorp NAARDERMEER NAARDEN Huizen Motorway
OUDERKERK Main road
AAN DE AMSTEL Bussum Blaricum
Minor road
AALSMEER LAREN Scenic route
’s-GRAVELAND
HILVERSUM Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border



For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409–10


176-177_EW_Netherlands.indd 177 16/01/17 11:54 am

178  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

1 Marken
Road map C3. * 2,000. @ g from
Volendam. ∑ vvv-waterland.nl
For almost eight centuries,
Marken was a fishing community
that saw little change. The con-
struction of a causeway link to the
mainland in 1957 put an end to
its isolation. The island, however,
has kept its original atmosphere,
retaining its wooden houses
built on mounds and piles to
guard against flooding. Het
Paard Lighthouse is a famous
landmark. Marker Museum, Traditional dress, today worn as costume at Volendam’s fishery
located in six historic houses,
gives a flavour of past and clock tower, with its 15th-century this town’s biggest attractions:
present life in Marken. There carillon: every hour, clockwork the women wear tight bodices,
is also a cheese factory and horsemen parade outside. lace caps and brightly striped
clog-making workshop. skirts; the men, loose trousers
E Waterlandsmuseum and jackets. You too can dress
E Marker Museum de Speeltoren up and have your photo taken.
Kerkbuurt 44–47. Tel 0299-601904. Noordeinde 4. Tel 0299-652203. On the other side of the dyke
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily. & Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm Tue–Sat; is a different Volendam: an
7 ∑ markermuseum.nl Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm Sat & Sun. & ancient, atmospheric maze of
∑ despeeltoren.nl narrow streets, wooden houses
and little canals.
2 Monnickendam
3 Volendam
Road map C3. * 10,000. @ 4 Edam
n Zuideinde 2 (0299-820046). Road map C3. * 21,000. @
( Sat. ∑ vvv-waterland.nl n Zeestraat 37 (0299-363747). Road map C3. * 7,200. @
( Sat. ∑ vvv-volendam.nl n Damplein 1 (0299-315125).
This old town on the Gouwzee, ( Wed; cheese market: Jul–Aug:
founded by monks, has buildings This old fishing village on the 10:30am–12:30pm Wed.
dating back to the 17th and 18th IJsselmeer is world-famous, ∑ vvv-edam.nl
centuries, including the stadhuis, attracting a huge number of
or town hall, and the Waag, or tourists. The village is built along Edam is known worldwide for
weigh house. The Museum de a dyke; at its small harbour, you the rounds of cheeses covered
Speeltoren explains the town’s can still buy all sorts of fish. with red wax it exports. (Yellow
history. It is located in the Stadhuis Traditional costume is one of wax is used if for local consump-
tion.) Visit the cheese market on
Wed nesday mornings in July
and August to see how they
are sold. Founded in the 12th
century, the town has many
historical build ings, including
the brightly painted Waag
(weigh house). The17th-century
stained-glass windows in the
Grote Kerk are considered
some of the finest in Holland.
The Edams Museum is
located in a 16th-century
merchant’s house. Here you
can see 17th-century portraits
of famous Edammers, such
as Trijntje Kever, who was
supposedly 2.8 m (9 ft) tall.
E Edams Museum
Damplein 8. Tel 0299-372644.
Open Apr–Oct: Tue–Sun. Closed 27
Distinctive 17th-century wooden houses at Marken Apr. & ∑ edamsmuseum.nl
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409–10


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NOR TH HOLLAND  179


for sale. All the houses are built
from timber, as stone houses
would sink at once into the soft
peat earth. Also, at the time they
were built, wood was readily
available from local sawmills.
A visit to Zaanse Schans will
also reveal Albert Heijn’s first
shop from 1887, a baking
museum and cheese factory. The
Zaans Museum showcases the
history of the region. Pleasure
boats offer trips on the Zaan.
E Zaans Museum
Schansend 7, Zaandam. Tel 075-
6810000. Open 10am–5pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7
∑ zaansmuseum.nl
Environs
At the Molenmuseum (windmill
museum) at Koog on the Zaan,
Typical Dutch windmill on the Zaanse Schans you will learn everything you
need to know about the wind-
5 Jisp tourist office, VVV, has mills of the Zaan region. It is
information about the various located in an 18th-century
Road map B3. * 760. @ n 0299-
472718. ∑ laagholland.com excursions offered. wooden house.
Haaldersbroek, opposite the
The old whaling village of Zaanse Schans, was once a boat-
Jisp, on one of the many 6 Zaanse Schans ing village with narrow locks, brick
for mer Zuiderzee islands, Road map C3. Schansend 7, paths and typical Zaan houses
has a 17th-century feel. Zaandam. * 50. @ Tel 075- and farmhouses. Here, you’ll feel as
The stadhuis (town hall) and 6810000. Open 9am–5pm daily, some though you’ve gone back in time.
dorpskerk (village church) buildings closed weekdays in winter.
are worth a visit. The village ∑ zaanseschans.nl E Molenmuseum
lies in the middle of the Museumlaan 18, Koog a/d Zaan.
Jisperveld, a nature reserve The Zaanse Schans is the tourist Tel 075-6288968. Open Tue–Sun.
which is home to many heart of the Zaan region. This Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun, Whitsun.
different birds, such as open-air museum, created in & ∑ zaanschemolen.nl
lapwings, black-tailed godwits, 1960, has typical Zaan houses,
redshanks, ruffs and spoonbills. windmills and buildings. When
This is a lovely spot to cycle, it’s windy, you will be able to see 7 De Beemster
row, fish or, in the summer, the windmills working. The Road map B3. @ n VVV
visit on an excursion. The products (oil, paint, mustard) are Middenbeemster (0299-621826).
∑ beemsterinfo.nl
Czaar-Peterhuisje (Tsar Peter’s House)
The Beemster was once a lake
In 1697, the Russian Peter the Great visited the shipyards of Zaandam that was drained in 1612 by
in order to learn how the local people built ships. He lodged with Jan Adriaansz Leeghwater (see
Gerrit Kist, a tradesman whom he p167). This unusual region has
had employed in St Petersburg. hardly changed since the 17th
The tsar paid another visit to the century, and in 1999 it was
town in 1717. The first mention of named a World Heritage Site by
“Tsar Peter’s house” in an official UNESCO. You can see historic
document was in 1780. This led to objects and period rooms in the
the tiny wooden house being Museum Betje Wolff.
supplied with a stone casing and
foundations for protection. Every
year, this humble house attracts E Museum Betje Wolff
a great number of tourists. (Krimp Middenweg 178, Middenbeemster.
23, Zaandam, tel. 075-6810000. Tel 0299-681968. Open May–Sep:
Peter the Great, who stayed in Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; 11am–5pm Tue–Fri, 2pm onwards
Zaandam twice closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.) Sat–Sun; Oct–Apr: 2–5pm Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. &




178-179_EW_Netherlands.indd 179 16/01/17 12:04 pm

180  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

8 Zuiderzeemuseum

Enkhuizen was one of the towns whose economy was
based on fishing and which was devastated when its access
to the North Sea was blocked in 1932 by the construction
of a barrier dam, the Afsluitdijk (see p168). Enkhuizen is
today enjoying renewed prosperity with the opening of
the Zuiderzeemuseum complex and the restructuring of
the fishing port into a marina. The museum consists of an
open-air section in the form of a museum-park, and an . Houses from Urk
indoor area with a large number of exhibition spaces for Houses from the former island of
permanent displays and temporary presentations. Urk (see p330) have been rebuilt
here. Actors portray life at the
beginning of the 20th century.

Entrance pavilion
to Buitenmuseum
















Sailmaker’s Workshop
At the beginning of the
20th century, most ships
and fishing boats had
. Schepenhal sails. The traditional craft
The Schepenhal (marine of sailmaking is kept
hall) at the Binnenmuseum alive in this workshop.
(indoor museum) features
an exhibition of 14 historic
ships in full regalia. Children Entrance to
can listen to an exciting Buitenmuseum
audio play while sitting
in a boat.










Lime Kilns
Shells dredged from the sea bed were
burned in bottle-shaped lime kilns.
The resulting quicklime was then
used as an ingredient in mortar for
brickwork. These ovens come from
Akersloot in North Holland.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409–10


180-181_EW_Netherlands.indd 180 16/01/17 11:54 am

ENKHUIZEN  181


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Wierdijk 12–22, Enkhuizen.
Tel 0228–351111.
∑ zuiderzeemuseum.nl
Indoor and open-air museums
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily;
indoor museum also open Nov–
Mar: 10am–5pm daily.
Closed 25 Dec. £ Enkhuizen.
4 from the station. & 7 -
0 =
. Contemporary Delft Blue Hugo Kaagman’s paintings
juxtapose traditional Delft motifs with present-day designs in
refreshing combinations: windmills, tulips and fisherfolk sit
beside portraits of popular singers.
The Church
The builders of this late-19th-
century church, from the island
of Wieringen, hid the organ in
a cupboard to avoid the
tax levied on church
organs at that time.




















KEY
1 Ferries take visitors from the
station and entrance pavilion to the
Buitenmuseum (open-air museum).
2 Monnickendam smoke-houses
3 Reconstruction of Marken
harbour
4 Costume Chest allows visitors to
dress up in traditional outfits.
5 Shipbuilding and repairs
0 metres 50
6 A working windmill shows how
0 yards 50
polder drainage works (see pp168–9).
7 The houses in this area come
from Zoutkamp, a fishing village on
what was once the Lauwerszee.
8 Houses from the Zuiderzee
island of Urk




180-181_EW_Netherlands.indd 181 16/01/17 11:54 am

182  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


just like the St Jans Gashuis. of the gardens. To explore the
Hoorn’s historic past is set out village and surroundings from
in the Westfries Museum. A a different perspective, canoes
glimpse of the more recent and electric motorboats can
past and a nostalgic trip be rented from Kano &
down memory lane can be Electroboot Waterland (Drs. J.
experienced at the Museum van Disweg 4, 020-4033209,
van de Twintigste Eeuw www.fluisterbootvaren.nl).
(Museum of the 20th Century).
Boats moored at Hoorn harbour
E Westfries Museum w Medemblik
9 Enkhuizen Rode Steen 1. Tel 0229-280022.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri (Apr–Oct: Road Map C2. * 8,000. @
Road Map C2. * 18,100. @ £ also Mon), 1–5pm Sat & Sun. n 072-5114284. ( Mon.
n Tussen Twee Havens 1 (0228- Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 3rd Mon in ∑ medemblik.nl
313164). ( Wed. Aug, 25 Dec. ∑ wfm.nl
∑ enkhuizen.nl Many pretty 17th-century
E Museum van de Twintigste houses can still be found in
Enkhuizen is still a major port. Its Eeuw Medemblik. Also worth a look
many fine buildings are evidence Krententuin 24. Tel 0229-214001. is Kasteel Radboud, built in 1288,
of the wealth of the Golden Age. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, from noon and its museum. On the town’s
The most famous building is the Sat–Sun & holidays. Closed 1 Jan, 27 outskirts, an old pumping station
Drommedaris, dating back to Apr, 25 Dec. ∑ museumhoorn.nl is home to Het Nederlands
1540, used to keep watch over Stoommachinemuseum, a
the old port. The city walls also q Broek in hands-on collection of steam-
date back to the 16th century. driven industrial machinery.
Enkhuizen has two splendid Waterland
churches, the Westerkerk and Road Map C3. * 2,350. @ n 0229- E Het Nederlands
the Zuiderkerk. Summer boat 820046. ∑ waterland.nl Stoommachinemuseum
trips to Medemblik, Stavoren and Oosterdijk 4. Tel 0227-544732.
Urk are especially pleasant. Broek in Waterland’s status in Open end Feb–early Nov: Tue–Sun.
the 17th century – as a retreat ∑ stoommachinemuseum.nl
for sea captains of the East India
0 Hoorn Company – can still be seen
everywhere in the village’s
Road Map C3. * 68,000. @ £
n Schuitjeskade 1 (0229-855761). ( crooked streets. The ornate
Sat; Jun–Aug: Wed. ∑ hoorn.nl clapboard villas are colour- coded:
the captains lived in the pastel-
Hoorn’s rich past, as the capital tinted houses and non-seafarers
of the ancient province of West in the ones painted grey. Along
Friesland and one of the great the Havenrak, the road winding
seafaring towns of the Golden along the lake, fine examples of
Age (see pp54–5), has produced kralentuinen, mosaics made from
many beautiful buildings. The blue glass beads brought back The 13th-century Kasteel Radboud
Late Gothic Oosterkerk has a by merchants from the East in Medemblik
marvellous Renaissance façade, Indies, can be seen in several
e Den Helder
Road Map B2. * 57,000. @
£ n Willemsoord 52A (0223-
616100). ( Jul & Aug: Tue.
∑ topvanholland.nl
This town, the base for the Dutch
Royal Navy, has a Marinemuseum
that displays marine history from
1488. At the North Sea Aqua-
rium at Fort Kijkduin, a glass
tunnel weaves among the fish.

E Marinemuseum
Hoofdgracht 3. Tel 0223-657534.
Open May–Oct: daily; Nov–Apr: Tue–
Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25–26 Dec.
Riverside setting of Broek in Waterland & = ∑ marinemuseum.nl




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NOR TH HOLLAND  183


Windmills

Since the 13th century, windmills have been an inseparable
part of the landscape of Holland. They have been used for a
variety of purposes, including milling corn, extracting oil and
sawing wood. One of their most important uses was to pump
away excess water from the polders (see pp168–9). Windmills
consist of a fixed tower and a cap which carries the sails. The
cap can be turned so that the sails face the wind. The sails can
be very dangerous when they are turning – hence the Dutch
saying, “Een klap van de molenwiek hebben” (“To be struck by a
windmill”), that is, to have a screw loose. The Netherlands had Watermill in the Schermer polder
thousands of windmills in earlier times, but since the arrival
of modern machines, their number has dropped to just over Lattice and
1,000. Many of these windmills are still working and are open canvas sail
for visits. (See also pp28–9.)
Polder mills for draining
became common during
the 17th century.
Standing in groups, they
were each responsible for
part of the pumping,
through the use of an
Archimedes’ screw.


Modern wind turbines are common in
Holland. They supply electricity without Drive shaft
the pollution caused by burning oil or coal.
Archimedes’
screw
Upper reservoir
Rolled-up canvas
The upper section
could be turned on
its axis in the wind.
Main
spindle
Wooden
Grain was sails
ground by two
millstones.
The cogs are turned by The sails were
the sails. A rotating covered with Flour was
poured into
canvas to catch
spindle makes a cog more wind. bags through
move, causing the water chutes.
pump to start working.
Flour Mills
Flour mills were covered
with reeds and looked like
enormous pepper mills. The
millstones were linked to the
sails by the spindle and gear-
wheels and milled wheat,
barley and oats.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409–10


182-183_EW_Netherlands.indd 183 16/01/17 12:04 pm

184  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


r West Friesland Tips for Drivers

During Holland’s Golden Age, West Friesland Length: 80 km (50 miles)
played a major part in the Dutch economy as an Places to stop: Cafés and
restaurants in any of the villages
important centre for trade and shipping. Nowadays and towns along the way.
the main inland activity is farming. Watersports Roads: The roads in West
bring in the most money on the IJsselmeer coast. Friesland are good. Along the
If you take the route in spring, you will travel IJsselmeer you will travel over a
narrow, winding dyke where you
alongside blooming bulb fields and orchards. There will certainly encounter many
is a pleasant bustle along the IJsselmeer in the cyclists and walkers.
summer, and part of the route is great for cycling.

5 Twisk 4 ‘t Regthuys, Abbekerk
This widespread This museum has collections of West
village has pretty Friesland clothing, curiosities and –
farmhouses, most important for the children – toys.
many of which
can often be 3 Stoommachinemuseum
reached only by (Steam Engine Museum)
little bridges. The old steam pumping station
“Vier Noorder Koggen” near
Medemblik has a unique collection
of steam-operated machinery.
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
Medemblik
Andijk
Twisk
Wervershoof
Abbekerk
Oostwoud
Midwoud
Enkhuizen
Hoogkarspel
Nibbixwoud
spoorlijn
Toeristische
Blokker



Hoorn Oosterleek
Schellinkhout



Key 2 West Friesland Omringdijk
1 Schellinkhout Suggested route In the 13th century, a ring dyke
This attractive village to protect against flooding was
just a stone’s throw Other road built around West Friesland.
from Hoorn has been Railway line Through land reclamation, a large
inhabited since pre- Tourist railway proportion of the dyke now lies
historic times. It once Good viewing point inland. Two wiels, or pools, by the
had an old sandy cove IJsselmeer are reminders of when
of the Zuiderzee. Windmill water broke through the dyke.





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Date 12th July 2013
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NOR TH HOLLAND  185


breweries now use. There is
also a reconstruction of an old
café interior. Under the same
roof is a lovely waterside café
and “tasting house” where 86
different beers, many of them
Dutch, can be sampled.
South of the kaasmarkt, on
the corner where Mient meets
Verdronkenoord, is the vismarkt
or fish market, which dates
back to the 1500s and was
still in use until 1998. The low,
colonnaded stalls are covered
to protect traders and their
wares from the elements,
and contain brick and stone
benches where catches of fish
Porters carrying cheese on sledges at Alkmaar’s traditional cheese market were displayed to customers.
The current buildings date
t Alkmaar of the cheese market is the back to the mid-18th century.
Nationaal Bier museum De Further along Verdronkenoord
Road map B3. * 94,000. @ Boom. Housed in an impressive is the Sint Laurenskerk or
£ n Waagplein 2 (072-5114284). 17th-century building, formerly Grote Kerk. This 15th-century
( Weekly market Sat; cheese the biggest brewery in the town, church has one of the most
market Fri morning, Apr–Sep.
∑ vvvhartvannoordholland.nl the museum explores a important organs in Europe,
millennium of beer drinking in built in 1639–46, and is
This old town has at least 400 the Netherlands. The museum noteworthy for its painting
monuments, and the street illustrates, for example, how in on the ceiling depicting
layout has barely changed over the Middle Ages Alkmaar the Last Judgment
the centuries. Along the canals, lacked a supply of safe by Jacob Cornelisz.
old merchants’ houses and small drinking water, so van Oostzanen.
courtyards can still be seen. The brewers would The scene was
Stedelijk Museum depicts the ship barrels of painted on nine
history of the town through clean water from wooden panels
paintings, videos and models. It the surrounding in 1518–1519.
also has a collection of paintings dunes and The Renaissance façade of the In 1885, due to
from the Bergen School of the streams, and then weigh house water damage,
1920s and 1930s. make it into beer. The the panels were
Alkmaar is famous for its collection of equipment shows taken to the Rijksmuseum,
traditional kaasmarkt (cheese the beer-making process over only to return during the
market), which is held every the last 100 years, from copper German occupation.
Friday morning from early April to vats, kettles, barrels and bottles
early September. The large yellow to examples of the modern E Stedelijk Museum
wheels of cheese arrive by barge. laboratory technology that Canadaplein 1. Tel 072-5489789.
They are tossed from the barges Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
by four groups of seven porters (to 7pm on Fri). Closed 1 Jan,
from the 400-year-old cheese 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7
∑ stedelijkmuseumalkmaar.nl
porters’ guild. The porters are
dressed in white and divided into E Waaggebouw and
guild groups by the colour of Kaasmuseum
their hats. The cheese is loaded Waagplein 2. Tel 072-5114284.
onto sledges, which the porters Open Mar & Oct: Mon–Sat, Apr–
run with to the waag gebouw Sep: daily; Nov–Feb: Sat. & 7
(public weigh house), where the E Nationaal Biermuseum
cheese is weighed. Once tasting De Boom
has taken place, the cheese is Houttil 1. Tel 072-5113801.
auctioned off by a system called Open Mon–Sat. Closed public hols.
handjeklap, with sellers clapping 7 ∑ biermuseum.nl
each other on the hands. The R Grote Kerk
Kaasmuseum (cheese museum) Koorstraat 2. Tel 072-5140707.
at the waaggebouw shows both Open Apr–May: 10am–4pm Thu–Sat;
modern and traditional methods The Biermuseum, where a variety of beers Jun–Sep: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun; during
of dairy farming. A little north can be sampled exhibitions. ∑ grotekerk-alkmaar.nl
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409–10


184-185_EW_Netherlands.indd 185 16/01/17 12:04 pm

186  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

y Street-by-Street: Haarlem

Haarlem is the commercial capital of North Statue of Laurens Coster
Holland province and the eighth largest city According to local legend,
Haarlem-born Laurens
in the Netherlands. It is the centre of the Jansz Coster (1370–1440)
Dutch printing, pharmaceutical and bulb- invented printing in
growing industries, but there is little sign of 1423, 16 years before
this in the delightful pedestrianized streets of Gutenberg. The
19th-century statue in
the historic heart of the city. Most of the the Grote Markt
sights of interest are within easy walking celebrates the claim.
distance of the Grote Markt, a lively square
packed with ancient buildings, cafés and
restaurants. Old bookshops, antique dealers
and traditional food shops are all to be
discovered in nearby streets. A T
A
R
T
S
S S
I M
R E
The Hoofdwacht Z I J L S T R A A T J O D E
is a 17th-century L S
former guard T E T
R
house. R A
A
B A T
S T R A A T R . G R O T E

K O N I N G U T S T M A R K T

H O

Stadhuis R . L E P E L S T R A AT
Lieven de Key’s G
allegorical figure of
Justice (1622) stands
above the main
entrance. She . Vleeshal (1603)
carries a sword and The old meat market is part
the scales of justice.
of the Frans Hals Museum
(see pp190–91).












Grote Markt
The tree-lined market square is bordered
with busy pavement restaurants and cafés.
It has been the meeting point for the
townspeople for centuries.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409–410


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Date 24th April 2013
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HAARLEM  187


. Grote Kerk VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The huge church (see p188)
is dominated by a decorative Practical Information
organ (1735) with soaring pipes, Road Map B3. * 151,000.
which drew many famous ∑ haarlem.nl
composers to Haarlem. n Verwulft 11 (0900-6161600).
( Mon & Sat. _ Haarlem Jazz
Festival: end Aug; Bloemen
Corso: end Apr.
Transport
£ Stationsplein.











A T
A
R
T
S
S
N
A
L A N G E B E G I J N E S T R A AT W I J D E A P P E L A A R S T E E G B K instruments, like this
J . Teylers Museum
Physical and
astronomical
brass electrostatic
A
generator by Pieter
E
van Marum (1784),
N
form part of the
E
S
collection in this
S
– E
S R museum of science,
I G
U N technology and art
H I R (see p189).
K L E A
L O P C
K N A U W E A P P E L A A R S T E E G T
H
Shops and houses cling to
the walls of the Grote Kerk.
S P A A R N E
D O N K E R E
R I V E R S P A A R N E
0 metres 50
Gravestenenbrug
This lift bridge crosses the river Spaarne. Key 0 yards 50
Located on the south bank is the Recommended route
embarkation point for boat trips along
the river and canals.




186-187_EW_Netherlands.indd 187 16/01/17 12:04 pm

188  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring Haarlem P Stadhuis
Grote Markt 2. Tel 023­5115115.
Haarlem became a city in 1245, and had grown into a thriving Open by appt only. 7
clothmaking centre by the 15th century. But the city was sacked Haarlem’s Stadhuis (town hall)
in the Spanish siege of 1572–3, and a series of fires wreaked has grown rather haphazardly
further destruction in 1576. The town’s fortunes changed in the since 1250 and is an odd mixture
of architectural styles. The oldest
17th century, when industrial expansion ushered in a period of part of the building is the beamed
prosperity lasting throughout the Golden Age. The centre was medieval banqueting hall of the
largely rebuilt by Lieven de Key (1560–1627) and still retains counts of Holland, originally
much of its character. The Grote Kerk continues to overlook the known as the Gravenzaal. Much
city’s hofjes (almshouses), and the brick-paved lanes around the of this was destro yed in two great
fires in 1347 and 1351, but the
Grote Markt are little changed.
15th­century panel portraits
of the counts of Holland can still
be seen.
The wing of the town hall
bordering the Grote Markt was
designed by Lieven de Key
in 1622. It is typical of Dutch
Renaissance architecture,
combining elaborate gables,
ornate painted detail and
Classical features, such as
pediments over the windows.
In a niche above the main
entrance is a plump allegorical
figure of Justice, bearing a sword
in one hand and scales in the
other as she smiles benignly
Grote Markt, Haarlem (c.1668) by Berckheijde, showing the Grote Kerk upon the pavement cafés in the
market below. To the left, in
E Frans Hals Museum upper walls and 28 supporting Koningstraat, an archway leads
See pp90–91. columns painted in greens, reds to the university buildings behind
and golds. The intricate choir the Stadhuis, where there is a
R Grote Kerk screen, like the magnificent brass 13th­century cloister and library.
Grote Markt 22. Tel 023­5532040. lectern in the shape of a preening
Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat (Apr–Oct eagle, was made by master metal E De Hallen
till 5pm). Closed Easter, Whitsun, 27 worker Jan Fyerens in about 1510. Grote Markt 16. Tel 023­5115775.
Apr, 5 May, 25 Dec–2 Jan. & 7 8 The choirstalls (1575) are painted Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
∑ bavo.nl with coats of arms, and the & ∑ dehallen.nl
The enormous Gothic edifice of armrests and misericords are The Verweyhal (museum of
Sint Bavo’s great church, or Grote carved with caricatures of animals modern art) and the Vleeshal
Kerk, was a favourite subject of and human heads. Not far away (exhibition space), both in
the 17th­century Haarlem School is the simple stone slab covering the Grote Markt, are part
artists Pieter Saenredam (1597– the grave of Haarlem’s most of the Frans Hals Museum
1665) and Gerrit Berckheijde famous artist, Frans Hals. (see pp190–91). The Verweyhal
(1639–98). Built between 1400 The Grote Kerk boasts one accommodates exhibitions
and 1550, the church and its of Europe’s finest and most of Dutch Expressionism, the
ornate bell tower dominate the flamboyant organs, built in Cobra School (see p193),
market square. Clinging on to 1735 by Christiaan Müller. Impressionism and
the exterior of the south wall is In 1738 Handel tried contemporary works.
a jumble of 17th­century shops the organ and pro­ It is named after the
and houses. The rents raised from nounced it excellent. painter Kees Verwey,
these ramshackle, untidy It also found favour whose Impressionist
buildings contributed to the with the infant still lifes are an
maintenance of the church. prodigy Mozart, important feature
Today, the entrance to the who shouted for of the collection. The
Grote Kerk is through one of the joy when he gave heavily ornamented
surviving shops, a tiny antec­ a recital on it in Vleeshal (meat
hamber that leads straight into 1766. The organ is market), just to the
the enormous nave. The church still often used for west of the church,
has a high, delicately patterned, concerts, recordings Detail on Vleeshal façade houses temporary
vaulted cedarwood ceiling, white and teaching. by Lieven de Key exhibitions of modern
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409–10


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HAARLEM  189


The city defences were severe ly E Museum Haarlem
tested in 1573, when the Groot Heiligland 47. Tel 023-5422427.
Spanish, led by Frederick of Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, Easter,
Toledo, besieged Haarlem for 27 Apr, Whitsun, 25 Dec. & 7
seven months during the Dutch ∑ museumhaarlem.nl
Revolt. The city fathers agreed Located in one of Haarlem’s
to surrender the town on terms prettiest streets, Museum Haarlem
that included a general amnesty features an interesting display of
for all its citizens. The Spanish artifacts that focuses on the his-
appeared to accept the terms, tory of the city and its environs.
but once the city gates were The museum is housed in the
opened, they marched in and St Elisabeth’s Gasthuis, a hospital
treacherously slaughtered founded in 1597. After extensive
nearly 2,000 people – almost restoration, this almshouse was
the entire population of the city. opened as Haarlem’s principal
historical museum. The present
E Teylers Museum building dates back to 1610. A
Spaarne 16. Tel 023-5160960. Open stone plaque carved above what
10am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–5pm Sun used to be the main doorway in
& holidays. Closed 1 Jan, 5 & 25 Dec. 1612 depicts an invalid being
& 7 - = ∑ teylersmuseum.nl carried off to hospital. Changing
The west gate of the Amsterdamse This was the first major public exhibitions connect the past with
Poort (1355) museum to be founded in the the present, making it a perfect
Netherlands. It was established starting point for exploring the city.
art. It was built in 1602 by the city in 1778 by the silk merchant Walking tours are also available.
surveyor, Lieven de Key, and has a Pieter Teyler van der Hulst to
steep step gable which disguises encou rage the study of science £ Haarlem Station
the roof line. The extravagantly and art. The mus eum’s Stationsplein.
over-decorated miniature gables eccentric collection of fos sils, The first railway line in the
above each dormer window drawings and scientific Nethe rlands opened in 1839
bristle with pinnacles. A giant paraphernalia is display ed in and ran between Haarlem
painted ox’s head on the façade Neo-Classical and Amsterdam.
signifies an earlier function of splendour The original station,
the building. in a series of built in 1842, was Please fix text
18th-century refurbished in Art
P Amsterdamse Poort rooms. The Nouveau style wrap. Text over-
Amsterdamsevaart. Closed to public. two-storey between 1905 and lapping with
The imposing medieval Oval Hall was 1908. It is a grandiose
gateway that once helped added in 1779 brick building with cutout image.
protect Haarlem lies close to and contains Tiles depicting various modes an arched façade
the west bank of the river bizarre glass of transport, Haarlem Station and rectangular
Spaarne. The Amsterd amse cabinets full of towers. The interior
Poort was one of a complex of 12 minerals and cases of is decorated with brightly
gates guarding strategic trans- intimidating medical coloured tiles depicting various
port routes in and out of Haarl- instruments. A significant modes of transport. Other
em. The gate was built in 1355, collection of sketches by Dutch highlights are the woodwork of
though much of the elaborate and Italian masters, including the ticket offices and the highly
brickwork and tiled gables date Rembrandt and Michelangelo, decorative wrought ironwork,
from the late 15th century. is shown a few at a time. particularly on the staircases.














Gabled houses from the 17th and 18th centuries along the river Spaarne in Haarlem




188-189_EW_Netherlands.indd 189 16/01/17 12:04 pm

190  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Frans Hals Museum

Celebrated as the first “modern” artist, Frans
Hals (c.1582–1666) introduced a new realism
into painting. Although his contemporaries
strove for perfect likenesses, Hals knew how
to capture his models’ characters by using an
impressionistic technique. Even at the age of
80, he still painted impressive portraits, such . Banket van de Officieren van de
as De regentessen van het Oude Mannenhuis in St-Jorisdoelen (Banquet of the Officers
Haarlem (Regentesses of the Old Men’s Home of the Civic Guard of St George)
in Haarlem) (1664). The Oude Mannenhuis (old (1616) The features of each of the archers and
the luxury of their banquet room are beautifully
men’s home) became the Frans Hals Museum portrayed in this group portrait by Frans Hals.
in 1913. It also has on show many paintings by
other artists from the Dutch Golden Age, as
well as 16th- and 17th- century artifacts.


Key to Floorplan
Works by Frans Hals
Renaissance Gallery
Old Masters
Frans Hals’ workshop
The Hals Phenomenon
Non-exhibition space
Militia paintings
by Hals
















Moeder en Kind (Mother Courtyard
and Child)
After the Reformation (see pp56–7),
artists such as Pieter de Grebber
(1600–53) painted secular versions
of religious themes. This work of a
mother feeding her child (1622) is
reminiscent of Mary with Jesus.





. Stilleven (Still Life) (1613)
Floris Claeszoon van Dyck (1574–
1651) was famous for his minute
attention to detail and texture.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409–10


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Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

HAARLEM  191


. Mercurius (1611) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Hendrick Goltzius (1558–
1617) is particularly well Practical Information
known for his studies of Groot Heiligland 62, Haarlem
classical nudes. One of a Tel 023-5115775.
three-part set, this canvas ∑ franshalsmuseum.nl
was donated to the Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sat,
museum by a rich noon–5pm Sun & public hols.
Haarlem mayor. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7
0 = 9














St Luke Painting the
Virgin and Child
(1532), Maerten Jacobsz van
Heemskerck. St Luke was the
patron saint of artists’ professional
associations, the Guilds of
St Luke. This was painted for
the Haarlem Guild.















The Grote Markt in Haarlem, (1696), Gerrit Adriaensz
Main entrance Berckheijde. The Grote Kerk or St Bavokerk, seen here
from the west, is built in the Gothic style and is
Haarlem’s largest church.



Museum Guide
The best direction to take through the
museum is counter-clockwise, as
exhibitions of the works of Frans Hals,
other portraits, still lifes and pieces of
genre paintings are displayed in roughly
Delft Plate (1662) The Grote chronological order. In the Verweyhal
Markt and Grote Kerk in Haarlem and the Vleeshal (see p188) temporary
(see p186) are depicted on this exhibitions are held of modern and
earthenware plate by M Eems. contemporary art.




190-191_EW_Netherlands.indd 191 16/01/17 12:04 pm

192  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

i Heemskerk inhabited in Roman times;
archaeological finds are exhibited
Road Map B3. * 36,200. @
Tel 020-7026000. ( Fri. in the Ruïne van Brederode, a
∑ vvvijmuidenaanzee.nl 13th-century fortress. You will also
feel you are going back in time in
An obelisk honouring Dutch the Romanesque Engelmundus­
artist Maarten van Heemskerck kerk. Buitenplaats Beeckestijn is
stands in the cemetery of the one of the many houses built on
17th-century Hervormde the coast in the 17th and 18th
Kerk (Reformed church). Slot centuries by rich Amsterdammers.
Assumburg (Assumburg castle), Its gardens, as well as the period
dating from the 15th century, was rooms on the ground floor, are
built on the site of a 13th-century open to the public.
fortified house. Slot Marquette is
just as old but acquired its T Ruïne van Brederode
present form only two centuries Velserenderlaan 2, Santpoort. Tel 023-
ago. Fort Veldhuis is part of the 5378763. Open Mar–Oct: Wed, Fri–Sun
Egmond lighthouse, a welcoming beacon Stelling van Amsterdam, a 135- & ∑ heerlijkheidbrederode.nl
for ships at sea km (84-mile) defensive line that + Buitenplaats Beeckestijn
encircles Amsterdam. It is now a Rijksweg 136. Tel 0255-522877. House:
u Egmond small war museum, dedicated to Open Thu–Sun. & Garden: Open
the sac-rifices made by pilots daily. ∑ buitenplaatsbeeckestein.nl
Road Map B3. * 11,600. @ n
Voorstraat 141, Egmond aan Zee (072- during World War II.
5061473). ( Thu. ∑ vvvegmond.nl
E Fort Veldhuis p Zandvoort
Egmond is divided into three Genieweg 1. Tel 0251-230670. Road Map B3. * 15,500. £ @
parts: Egmond aan de Hoef, Open May–Oct: Sun. & 7 n Bakkerstraat 2b (023-5717947).
Egmond-Binnen and the ( Wed. ∑ vvvzandvoort.nl
seaside resort of Egmond aan
Zee. The counts of Egmond once o Velsen/IJmuiden Once a fishing village, Zandvoort
lived in Egmond aan de Hoef. Road Map B3. * 67,600. £ @ g is now a modern seaside resort
Only the foundations remain of n Marktplein 33 (020-7026000). where in the summer half the
the kasteel (castle), which is ( Thu. population of Amsterdam relaxes
open to visitors. on the beach or saunters down
Egmond abbey, in Egmond- Holland’s largest fishing port the busy main street. The village
Binnen, is the oldest abbey in is IJmuiden – as visitors can guess centre still has old fishermen’s
Holland and Zeeland. This 10th- from the penetrating smell of fish houses. Zandvoort is famous
century structure was destroyed, and the wonderful restaurants in for its motor racing circuit,
however, by Sonoy, chief of the the port. The Noorder sluis (north where Formula 1 races were
Beggars of the Sea (see p245). It lock), which forms part of the once held. It has since been
was not until 1934 that a new North Sea canal lock system, is restored and is now attempting
abbey was built; Benedictine one of the biggest locks in the to achieve its former status.
monks still live here today. The world. While coming across you To escape the crowds, ramble
small Abdijmuseum (abbey will pass by the Hoogovens (blast- through the Amsterdamse
museum) and candle factory furnaces), where you can take Waterleidingduinen.
can be visited (tel. 072-5062786, a round trip on a steam train.
www.abdijvanegmond.nl). The area around Velsen was Circuit Park Zandvoort
Burg. van Alphenstraat 108. Tel 023-
5740740. Open daily. & during
meets. ∑ cpz.nl
a Stoomgemaal
De Cruquius
Road Map B3. Cruquiusdijk 27. @
Tel 023-5285704. Open Mar–Oct:
daily; Nov–Feb: Wed, Sat & Sun. &
7 ∑ museumdecruquius.nl
The Stoomgemaal (steam-
driven pumping station) at
De Cruquius is one of the
three steam-driven pumping
Slot Assumburg in Heemskerk, a youth hostel since 1933 stations used to drain the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409–10



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NOR TH HOLLAND  193


destroyed in a tremendous storm such as Museum van der Togt,
in 1674, and a fine 18th-century with its unique collection of
church now stands on its site. glass objects. The Electrische
Today Ouderkerk aan de Amstel Museumtramlijn (Electric
is popular with cyclists who Tramline Museum, tel. 020-
come to enjoy its waterfront 6737538) keeps the past alive.
cafés and restaurants. On Sundays from April to
October you can take a return
trip from Amsterd am to
d Aalsmeer Amstelveen on a historic tram.
The Amsterdamse Bos
Road Map B3. * 22,900. @ ( Tue.
The Cruquius steam pump at (Amsterdam forest) is lovely for
Museum De Cruquius Aalsmeer is famous as the centre rambling, picnicking or playing
for floriculture in the Netherlands sport. The Bosmuseum is dedic-
Haarlemmermeer. It has not (see pp34–5). It also holds the ated to the origins of the forest.
been in use since 1933 and is biggest bloemenveiling (flower The Cobra Museum voor
now a museum. The original auction) in the world; you can Moderne Kunst (Cobra
steam engine is in the machine take part in the Museum
hall, which has eight pumps auction from of Modern Art)
moved by beams. An exhibition a special gallery. concentrates on
gives a comprehensive Many green- the work of the
overview of water management houses are to be Electric tram, Electrische Cobra group,
in the Netherlands. seen around Museumtramlijn established in 1948
Aalsmeer. One important activity by Danish, Belgian and Dutch
s Ouderkerk aan here is the development of new artists. During its brief
existence, Cobra abandoned
varieties and colours of flower.
de Amstel Many modern heroes have a dreary postwar art and
“new” flower named after them. introduced modern art
Road Map C3. * 8,200.
@ Amstelveen. definitively to the Netherlands.
( Bloemenveiling Flora Holland
This pretty village at the Legmeerdijk 313. Tel 0297-397000. E Museum Van der Togt
junction of the Amstel and the Open 7–11am Mon–Wed & Fri, Dorpsstraat 50. Tel 020-6415754.
Bullewijk rivers has been a 7–9am Thu. & ∑ floraholland.nl Open Wed–Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
favourite with Amsterdammers 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & ∑ jvdtogt.nl
since the Middle Ages. They had
no church of their own until f Amstelveen E Cobra Museum voor
1330, and worshippers had to Road Map B3. * 78,800. @ ( Fri. Moderne Kunst
travel to the 11th-century Sandbergplein 1–3. Tel 020-5475050.
Ouderkerk that gave the village Amstelveen is home to many Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
its name. The Old Church was interesting modern art museums, 25 Dec. & 7 ∑ cobra-museum.nl






















Women, Children, Animals (1951) by Karel Appel in the Cobra Museum




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194  WESTERN NE THERLANDS


flooded as a defence line in
Holland, and of Naarden’s
eventful past. Costumed
gunners regularly demonstrate
the ancient artillery. There is a
nice walk around the town along
the footpaths on the walls.
E Comeniusmuseum
Kloosterstraat 33. Tel 035- 6943045.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec, 31 Dec. & =
∑ comeniusmuseum.nl
E Nederlands Vestingmuseum
Westwalstraat 6. Tel 035-6945459.
The Muiderslot, built in 1280, a site of many legends Open 10:30am–5pm Tue–Fri, from
noon Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
g Muiden then later destroyed and rebuilt 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7 =
around 1350. In the 15th and ∑ vestingmuseum.nl
Road Map C3. * 6,700. @
16th centuries, it was occupied
In the Middle Ages, the pretty in turn by the Spanish and the
town of Muiden was an outport French. The first thing you j ’s-Graveland
for Utrecht but later became notice on arrival is the tower of Road Map C3. * 9,200. @
part of the defence system of the 14th-century Grote Kerk.
the Stelling van Amsterdam The church’s wooden vaulted ’s-Graveland is a special
(see p192), together with fort ceiling has been beautifully place in Het Gooi (see p176).
island Pampus. The town is decorated with pictures from In the 17th century, nine
mainly known for its castle, the Old and New Testament. country estates were built
the Muiderslot, which is more Around 400 years ago, Czech here for rich Amsterdammers.
than 700 years old and was priest Comenius fled to the Just across from these lie
built by Floris V. After his death Netherlands, and now lies the modest houses that
it was demolished and rebuilt. buried in the 15th-century belonged to the labourers.
The most famous inhabitant Waalse kapel (Walloon chapel). Businesses now use the
was the 17th-century poet The Spaanse Huis (Spanish country houses, as the upkeep
PC Hooft, who formed the house), which was converted is too expensive for individuals.
Muiderkring (Muiden circle), a into the Waag (weigh house), Five parks are owned by the
circle of friends occupied with is now home to the Vereniging Natuurmonumenten
literature and music. Most of Comeniusmuseum, which and are open to visitors.
the castle rooms are furnished explores the life and ideas of You can learn more at
in 17th- and 18th-century style. the Czech scholar Jan Amos the Bezoekerscentrum
The garden and orchard also Comenius (1592–1670), who (visitors’ centre).
retain their former glory. Visitors is buried here. The Nederlands
can take the ferry to Pampus. Vestingmuseum (fortress P Bezoekerscentrum Gooi-en
museum) is in one of the six Vechtstreek
+ Muiderslot bastions of the fortress and has Noordereinde 54b. Tel 035-6563080.
Herengracht 1. Tel 0294-256262. an exhibition of the Hollandse Open Tue–Sun.
Open Apr–Oct: daily; Nov–Mar: Waterlinie, a strip of land ∑ natuurmonumenten.nl
Sat & Sun. & 8 ∑ muiderslot.nl

+ Pampus
g from Herengracht 33 (Apr–Oct:
Tue–Sun) Tel 0294-262326.
∑ pampus.nl

h Naarden
Road Map C3. * 17,000.
@ £ ( Sat.
The fortified town of Naarden
lies behind a double ring of
canals and walls. The original
town is thought to have been
founded in the 10th century, Star formation of the fortress of Naarden
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409–10


194-195_EW_Netherlands.indd 194 16/01/17 11:54 am

NOR TH HOLLAND  195


E Museum Hilversum
Kerkbrink 6. Tel 035-5339601.
Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec. ∑ museumhilversum.nl

l Naardermeer
Road Map C3. n Meerkade 2,
Naarden (035-6990000). 8 7
∑ natuurmonumenten.nl
The Naardermeer is an area
of lakes and marshland
renowned for its breeding
colonies of cormorants and
purple herons. Several other
birds, such as the marsh harrier,
Hilversum town hall, finished in yellow brick the bittern, the reed warbler
and the spoonbill, can also
k Hilversum Bouwen. One of his most be observed here. Unusual
famous creations is the 1931 orchids, rare mosses and fungi
Road Map C3. n Kerkbrink 6. Tel
035-5446971. * 84,500. @ £ Raadhuis (town hall), with its grow here. The Naardermeer
( Wed & Sat. ∑ vvvhilversum.nl towers and beautiful interior is the oldest protected nature
(tours are given on Sundays). reserve in the Netherlands.
This dynamic centre in Het Its basement holds an Its creation was the start of
Gooi is known as the media exhibition on Dudok and the Vereniging Natuurmonu-
centre of the Netherlands, temporary architectural menten (Nature Reserve
because of the large number of exhibitions. The Museum Association). The association
broadcasting companies that Hilversum combines the has set out several walking
have been established here. Goois Museum and the Dudok tours around the area, which
Hilversum boasts a busy Centrum, illuminates the past are accessible to everyone.
shopping centre and attractive of Het Gooi and features an From April to November there
residential areas with a lot of archaeological collection. The are guided boat tours on the
greenery. Here and there you Neo-Gothic Sint-Vituskerk, lakes. Book via 035-6559955
will see houses and buildings designed by PJH Cuypers (see or online. No dogs allowed.
designed by architect Willem p94), with its 98-m (322-ft)
Dudok (1884–1974), a repre- tower, dates from 1892 and
sentative of the Nieuwe is worth a visit. z Laren
Road Map C3. * 11,100. @ ( Fri.
The Erfgooiers
Alongside pretty villas and
During the Middle Ages, the farmers of Het Gooi (see p176) joined country houses, Laren has many
together in a group to regulate the use of the heathland and converted old farm houses, a
meadows. From 1404, their rights were held in plough share notes. reminder of the time when it
Members of the group were known as erfgooiers, men living in Het was a farming village. In the
Gooi who were descendants of these medieval farmers. The right 19th and early 20th centuries,
of use was later converted into common property. The erfgooiers Laren and its surroundings
had to constantly fight for their rights. From the 19th century were the inspiration for many
onwards, the government strived to disband the group. In 1932, landscape and interior painters,
the heathland was sold, as were the meadows after 1965. The such as Mauve, Israëls and the
Association of Erfgooiers was disbanded in 1971.
American W Singer. The Singer
Museum has been set up in his
old house. Here you can see his
work and that of other 19th-
and 20th-century artists. There
is also a sculpture garden.
Sint-Jansbasiliek (1925)
towers above the Brink and
its charming restaurants.
E Singer Museum
Oude Drift 1. Tel 035-5393939.
De Erfgooiers (1907) by F Hart Nibbrig Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec. & 7 ∑ singerlaren.nl




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WESTERN NE THERLANDS  197

UTRECHT


The province of Utrecht, with the lively university city
of the same name at its heart, has a vast range of
attractions for visitors, including farmhouses,
mansions, museums and castles, all set in a varied
and attractive wooded landscape, and with a
fascinating history dating back to Roman times.

The city of Utrecht has its origins in AD 47, In more recent times, the University
when the Romans built a camp by a ford of Utrecht has been a great source of
(trecht) at the river Rhine, which followed economic and artistic development,
a different course in those days. In 695, and the city is home to a modern
Bishop Willibrord established himself here manufacturing industry and major
to promote the spread of Christianity. From Dutch corporations.
the 11th century, the church authorities Visitors will enjoy the pretty country-
enjoyed not only spiritual but also secular side – ideal for car or cycle touring – the
power in this region, which has seen much country houses and historic buildings,
conflict: over the centuries the counts of the street markets and a great variety
Holland, the dukes of Burgundy, the of attractions ranging from old steam
Spaniards, the French and the Germans locomotives to barrel-organs and
have all tried to make their mark here. Australian Aboriginal art. But in this eco-
The region’s proximity to Amsterdam has conscious country, with its awareness of
meant that it has been able to share in the the need for conservation, it may be the
capital’s prosperity as wealthy merchants outdoors, with its sparkling lakes and
and landowners built their mansions and possibilities for leisurely country walks,
estates along the river Vecht (see p202). that will appeal the most.





























De Haar castle in Haarzuilens, a Neo-Gothic construction (1892) built by Pierre Cuypers
Koppelpoort, one of Amersfoort’s 15th-century gates



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198  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring Utrecht Province

The city of Utrecht is the central point of the province
and is therefore the ideal base for sightseeing in the
surrounding area. The Vinkeveense Plassen (Vinkeveense
Lakes) are popular for watersports, and nature lovers will
appreciate the woodland area of the Utrecht Heuvelrug.
There are castles in Amerongen and Wijk bij Duurstede The Vinkeveense Plassen, formed
and numerous imposing country houses along the Vecht. by peat excavations
Windmills and working farms can be spotted here and
there in the countryside. Many defence points, such as
in Woerden, serve as reminders of the turbulent
past of this province, which has been at stake Abcoude
during fierce battles more than once.
VINKEVEENSE
PLASSEN Vecht BUNSCHOTEN–
SPAKENBURG
LOENEN
Mijdrecht Vinkeveen BAARN
LAGE
COUNTRY ESTATES VUURSCHE SOESTDIJK
ON THE VECHT Loosdrechtse
Plassen
SOEST
Breukelen AMERSFOORT
SLOT Bilthoven
ZUYLEN
Maarssen
Groenekan Soesterberg Leusden
Vleuten De Bilt
The heksenwaag (witches’ scales)
in Oudewater
WOERDEN UTRECHT
NIEUWE HOLLANDSE WATERLINIE
Harmelen Zeist Woudenberg
De Meern
Getting Around UTRECHT
Larger towns have railway stations;
smaller ones can be reached easily Utrecht Heuvelrug
by bus. Utrecht, the capital of the Nieuwegein Driebergen
province, is the biggest railway Montfoort DOORN Veenendaal
junction in the Netherlands and OUDEWATER
so train connections from this IJsselstein Houten
town are excellent. There is also a Tull en Leersum
regional bus station. Utrecht has ‘t Waal AMERONGEN
a highly developed road network
and is served by important main Lopik Vianen WIJK BIJ Neder Rijn Elst
roads such as the A2 (north–south) DUURSTEDE
and the A12 (east–west), but there
is also a large number of minor RHENEN
roads, tourist routes and cycle Lek
paths in the area.
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Rhenen, with its characteristic Cuneratoren National border
For map symbols see back flap


198-199_EW_Netherlands.indd 198 16/01/17 12:04 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Explorer template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.4)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm