THE HIST OR Y OF THE NE THERLANDS 49
Radboud, King of the Frisians
The Frisian king Radboud was forced to Dorestad
capitulate to the Frankish ruler Pippin II.
He later regained the land he had lost,
and with his army marched on
Cologne. In 734, the Frisians under
Count Bubo were again defeated at
the de Boorne River, allowing Charles
Martel to extend Frankish domain
up to the Lauwerszee.
Situated at the confluence
of the Lek and the Kromme
Rijn (by present-day Wijk
Boniface uses his bij Duurstede, see p211),
Bible to protect himself Dorestad was the most
from the sword. Pagan important trading settlement
ceremonial axe in northern Holland during
the Early Middle Ages.
It was the centre of Frisian
trade in the 7th century
and afterwards under
the Merovingians and
Carolingians. In the 9th
century, Dorestad was
repeatedly plundered by
marauding Vikings, who
sailed up the rivers in their
longboats in search of booty.
The settlement’s decline,
however, was due to the
damming of the Rhine against
flooding rather than because
of the Viking raids. There is no
reference in historical records
to Dorestad after 863. During
the 10th century, Dorestad’s
functions were taken over by
Tiel, Deventer and Utrecht. In
Wijk, the Museum Dorestad
(tel. 0343-571448) gives an
excellent idea of what life
must have been like here
during the Early Middle
Ages through its various
displays of archaeological
finds from that period, as
well as its informative
A convert
being baptized. diorama, complete with
models of port houses.
Viking Sword
This sword, dubbed “Adalfriid’s
sword”, was found in the Waal.
768–814 Rule of Charlemagne.
689 Pippin II defeats the Frisian king Holland is divided into pagi 925 Holland is 1007 Last Viking
Radboud at Dorestad and gains the (cantons), each of which is ruled invasion of the
600–700 Dorestad becomes an river region and Utrecht by a count taken over by the Low Countries
important trading settlement German Empire
700 750 800 900 1000
695 Willibrord becomes 754 Boniface is 834–837 Dorestad Viking longboat
bishop of Frisia and killed at Dokkum by plundered at various times
establishes his see in Utrecht pagan looters by Vikings
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50 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
The Emergence of Towns
In the 13th century, towns started to acquire considerable FRIESLAND
economic power. At that time, the Low Countries were BISDOM UTRECHT
nominally under the rule of the German king, but in HOLLAND
practice local nobles ran things themselves. In the north, ZEELAND Utrecht GELRE
BRABANT
the counts of Holland were the most powerful. In the mid- Antwerpen
14th century, their territory fell into the hands of the House VLAANDEREN
of Bavaria. Disunity between Margaretha of Bavaria and her HENEGOUWEN
son William marked the beginning of the dispute between The Low Countries (1300)
the Hooks and the Cods, which split towns as well as noble German Empire
families for one and a half centuries. France
The Fulling Industry
During the 15th century, the cloth industry flourished
in Leiden and ’s-Hertogenbosch. This painting by IC
Swanenburgh shows the fullers and dyers at work. In
the background to the right, inspectors are checking
the quality of the cloth.
Minting Coins
Minting rights lay
not only with the Pilgrims who had The sheriff, with his
sovereign. Local visited Santiago de distinctive chain of bells,
rulers, both church Compostela, well was the representative of the
and secular, were established as a place sovereign. Here he is on the
entitled to mint coins. of pilgrimage by the 11th way to pronounce a death
century, wore the scallop
sentence, which is shown by
shell of the apostle the red pole, the “rod of justice”,
St James on their hats. carried by an executioner.
1185 1247 William II of
The coat of arms of ’s-Hertogenbosch
‘s-Hertogenbosch Holland is appointed
c.1050 The first is granted its king of Germany by
dykes are built town charter the pro-Papal party
1000 1050 1100 1150 1200 1250
1165 Frederick Barbarossa
1076–1122 Investiture dispute places Friesland under the joint
between the German king and rule of the Bishop of Utrecht
the Pope on the right to and the Count of Holland
appoint bishops
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THE HIST OR Y OF THE NE THERLANDS 51
Cruel Punishment
In the Middle Ages, Where to See the Late
barbaric punishments Medieval Netherlands
were often meted out.
This cask on the wall of Famous monuments from this period are
the Waag in Deventer the Oude Kerk in Amsterdam (14th century,
was once used to see pp84–5) and the Begijnhof, which has the
immerse counterfeiters city’s oldest house (1420, see p91); the Cathedral
in boiling oil. Tower (1382) and the Catharijneconvent (15th
century) in Utrecht (see p206); the Onze-Lieve-
Vrouwebasiliek (11th–12th centuries) and
the St-Servaasbasiliek (11th–15th centuries) in
Grain brought by farmers to the towns
was inspected by officials. Produce in Maastricht (see p381); the 13th-century Ridderzaal
the meat and fish markets was also and the 14th-century Gevangenpoort in The
inspected daily. An excise tax was Hague (see p224); the Pieterskerk (15th century)
charged on the basis of the inspection. and the town walls of the 12th-century castle in
Leiden (see p221); the Lange Jan (14th century,
see p253) and the restored abbey (11th–15th
centuries) in Middelburg (see p254); the centre of
Deventer around the Brink and Bergkerk, including
the oldest stone house in Holland (see p324); and
the Martinitoren in Groningen (1469, see p286).
Silver Chalice
As guilds
prospered,
they attached
increasing
importance to
appearances. This
chalice is decorated with
a picture of St George
defending a maiden
against the dragon.
A Medieval Town
The sheriff, with his Demands of trade and industry meant
distinctive chain of bells, that towns were given all kinds of
was the representative of the privileges from the 13th century onwards.
sovereign. Here he is on the
way to pronounce a death Often important allies for the counts of
sentence, which is shown by Holland against local feudal lords, Dutch The Guild of St George (1533)
the red pole, the “rod of justice”, towns were more powerful than in other This painting by Cornelis Antonisz shows
carried by an executioner. countries during this period because of the marksmen at a meal. Originally, each guild was
lack of a powerful central authority. responsible for protecting a part of the city walls;
later, special guilds were set up.
Willem 1477 Marriage of Maria of
Beukelsz c.1380 Willem 1421 The
1296 Floris V Beukelsz. Biesbosch is built Burgundy and Habsburg 1550 Charles V
is assassinated invents the as a result of the St Maximilian I brings together introduces the
by the nobles Holland and Zeeland under death penalty for
herring-gutter Elizabeth Day flood the House of Habsburg all forms of heresy
1250 1300 1350 1400 1450 1500 1550
1345 Dispute between the Hooks
1306 and the Cods begins. At first a 1428 Philip the Good of 1517 Luther
Amsterdam disagreement over the successor Burgundy forces Jacoba of publishes the
gains city to William IV, it develops into a Bavaria to withdraw from 95 theses
status struggle between the feudal Holland, Zeeland and Hainaut
barons and the cities Luther
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52 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
The Dutch Trading Empire
The early 17th century marked a period of expansion
worldwide for northern Holland. Within a few decades, the
Levant, the Gulf of Guinea, the Caribbean, North and South
America, the East Indies, Persia, Arabia, Japan, India and
China were all on the Dutch trading routes. The republic’s
merchant fleet became the world’s largest. The powerful
Dutch East India Company (VOC), established in 1602,
dominated trade with Asia, with a monopoly on all profits Dealers on the Stock Exchange
from trade east of the Cape of Good Hope, while the Dutch With its market traders and
exchange, Amsterdam was
West India Company, established in 1621, concentrated on the undisputed trading centre
the New World and the slave trade. of Europe.
1625 The Dutch
found New
Amsterdam, later to
become New York
Purchase of Manhattan
Pieter Minnewit bought
Manhattan Island in 1625
from the Delaware Indians
for 60 guilders, 10 guns and
a brass cauldron.
1667 Abraham
Crijnssen conquers
Suriname
1627 Prince Maurits
conquers Recife
1652 Jan van de Riebeeck
founds Cape Town
The Dutch on Desjima
The Dutch trading office on
the island of Desjima was in Key
1854 the main conduit 1595–7 De Houtman and Keyzer
between Japan and the world.
1596–7 Barents and Heemskerck
1616 Le Maire and Schouten
1642–3 Tasman
VOC Plaque
The Dutch East India Company
(VOC) obtained sole rights to
trade for the republic in Asia. It The Silver Fleet
had the authority to make In 1628, Piet Hein captured
treaties with other powers and the Silver Fleet of Spain off
even to declare war. the north coast of Cuba.
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THE HIST OR Y OF THE NE THERLANDS 53
The 80 Years War
In the second half of the 16th
century, Holland officially belonged
to the Spanish branch of the House
of Habsburg. In 1567, Philip II sent
troops to put down Protestant
unrest in Flanders and halt the
Protestant Reformation sweeping
through northern Europe; this led
Surviving the Winter in Novaya Zemlya (1596–7) to a revolt against Spanish rule
During an attempt to find a northern route to the Indies, in northern Holland and resulted
an expedition led by W Barents and J van Heemskerck ended in years of civil war and religious
up on the coast of Novaya Zemlya. The group survived in the strife. The 80 Years War ended
Behouden Huys, a hut built from pieces of ships.
in 1648 with the Peace of Münster.
Statesman Johan van
Oldenbarnevelt and the Count
of Nassau, Prince Maurits, were the
main Dutch figures in the conflict
with Holland’s Spanish rulers
1596–1597 The during the 17th century.
winter camp in
Novaya Zemlya
1641 The Dutch establish
themselves on Desjima
1624 The Dutch establish
themselves on Formosa
Johan van
1658 The Dutch
establish themselves Oldenbarnevelt
in Ceylon
1619 JP Coen
founds Batavia Prince Maurits
1606 Willem Jansz
discovers Australia
1652 Jan van de Riebeeck
founds Cape Town
1642 Abel Tasman
discovers Tasmania
The Great Voyages
While Willem Barents was
exploring the Arctic seas, de
Houtman and Keyzer set off on
the “first voyages” to Java. In
1606, Willem Jansz discovered
the north coast of Australia, and
in 1616, Jacob le Maire and
Willem Schouten were the first to
sail around Cape Horn. Abel
Tasman discovered Tasmania Three-Master Ship
and New Zealand in 1642–3. These top-of-the-line 17th-century Dutch
merchant ships required only a small crew.
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54 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
The Golden Age
For the north of Holland the 17th century was a time of
unprecedented flowering in trade, art (see pp30–31) and Groningen
science. While elsewhere in Europe economies were in Amsterdam
stagnation, the republic’s merchant fleet brought great
prosperity, particularly to the towns of Amsterdam
and Utrecht. The Amsterdam Exchange (Amsterdamse Antwerpen Maastricht
Wisselbank), which was founded in 1609, ensured that
Amsterdam became the financial centre of the world. The Low Countries (1650)
Trade was protected by a powerful navy, which enjoyed Republic
significant victories under Michiel de Ruyter.
Spanish possessions
Tapestries and exquisite
Johan de Witt gilded leather hangings Germany
At the time known as the decorated the living rooms.
first stadholder-free period
(1650–72), the political
scene in the republic
was dominated by the
provincial governor
Johan de Witt. This
brilliant, impeccable
statesman was
murdered along with his
brother Cornelis by Orange
supporters in 1672.
View of the Weigh House in Haarlem
In the 17th century, Holland became
Europe’s main commodities market, with
strategic logistic and financial advantages.
Products from the Baltic Sea, southern
Europe, the Levant and Asia were loaded Oriental carpets were too Colourful clothes came into fashion
into the holds of merchant ships which valuable to put on the floor in the second half of the 17th century
came from all over the world. and so were draped over a and became a widespread object of
table or bench. study for portrait painters.
Spanish stew-kettle recovered
1559 Philip II names 1572 The “Beggars 1574 The relief after the relief of Leiden
Margaretha of Parma the of the Sea” take of Leiden
governor of over Den Briel
the Netherlands 1584 Assassination 1585 Fall of 1602 Dutch East India
of William of Orange Antwerp Company founded
1550 1565 1580 1595 1610
1566 1581 Northern
Iconoclastic Holland
Riots 1567 Duke of declares 1588 The States General proclaim the
Caricature painting
of the Pope as a Alva arrives independence Republic of the Seven United Netherlands
pontiff and devil in Holland from Spain
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THE HIST OR Y OF THE NE THERLANDS 55
The Enlightenment Where to See
The Enlightenment, or the “Age of Reason”, has the Netherlands’
its roots in the 16th century. In Holland, this Golden Age
emerged in the work of the natural scientists
Swammerdam and Van Leeuwenhoek, and the Good examples of
thinker Spinoza. The jurist Hugo de Groot was the 17th-century architecture
first to formulate a rational – as opposed to a are the Trippenhuis in
theological – basis for what he called “natural law”, Amsterdam (see p80), the
that is, a universal law applicable to all humans Lakenhal in Leiden (see
Antonie van everywhere, which was one of the great themes p220) and the Mauritshuis
Leeuwenhoek tackled by thinkers of the Enlightenment. in The Hague (see pp226–7).
Vlissingen has the Arsenaal
(see p255); Haarlem, the Grote
Markt (see p186). Outstanding
Wan-Li China Porcelain, also known merchant houses can be seen
as egg-shell porcelain, served as a in the major trading towns of
model for blue Delft pottery. the time, such as Delft (see
pp230–33) and Utrecht (for
Michiel de Ruyter example, the Oudegracht,
The admiral of the see p204).
Dutch fleet during
the Second and
Third English-
Dutch Naval
Wars was a
great tactician
held in high
esteem by
his sailors. His
nickname “Bestevaer”
meant “Grandfather”.
The Muider Circle
The artists and scholars who met at the
Interior of a home of the poet PC Hooft at Muiderslot
Patrician Home Castle are now known as the members of
This painting by Pieter the “Muiderkring” (Muider Circle).
de Hooch, Portrait of a
Family Making Music Prince of Poets
(1663), shows the wealth Joost van den Vondel
of a patrician residence in (1587–1679), depicted
the second half of the 17th here by HG Pot as a
century. Around 1660, shepherd, is widely
portrait painting shifted regarded as the
in style from sobriety to greatest Dutch
opulence, a reflection poet and
of the flourishing economy. playwright
of the 17th
century.
17th-Century Microscope
Antonie van Leeuwenhoek made
numerous important discoveries
with his home-made microscope.
1642 Rembrandt 1650–1672 First stadholder-free 1698 Tsar Peter
completes The period starts when the states fail the Great visits
Night Watch to name a successor after the Amsterdam
death of William II 1672–1702 Rule of and Zaandam
stadholder William III
1625 1640 1655 1670 1685 1700
1665–1667 The Second English-
1625 Frederick-Henry 1648 The Peace of Dutch Naval War. Michiel
becomes stadholder of Münster marks the end Adriaansz. de Ruyter scores 1689 William III becomes
Holland, Zeeland, Utrecht, of the 80 Years War legendary victories (Four Days’ king of England
Gelderland and Overijssel Battle, The Battle of Chatham)
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56 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
Calvinism
From the end of the 1500s, Calvinism took hold in
the Netherlands as Protestant opposition to Spanish
Catholic rule. Amsterdam, which had sided with Spain,
switched loyalties in 1578 to become the fiercely
Protestant capital of an infant Dutch Republic. Reformed
Church doctrine was to have a profound influence on
Dutch history. Strict living and industriousness became
ingrained in the character of Calvinists as well as of
Catholics and agnostics and was instrumental in the
country’s prosperity during the Golden Age.
The iconoclasts use
combined efforts to topple
a huge religious image from Gold and paintings decorated
the wall.
all churches.
The Statenbijbel was the
translation of the Bible officially
recognized by the Synod of
Dordrecht (1618–19). The
language used in it helped to
standardize Dutch. The New
Translation (Nieuwe Vertaling)
did not appear until 1957.
The Iconoclastic Riots
Underground Calvinist preachers goaded troublemakers
into the Iconoclastic Riots of 1566, when the decorations
of Catholic churches were destroyed with great violence.
Invaluable works of religious art were lost in this way.
The interiors of Dutch churches were no longer given the
Baroque ornamentation that characterizes churches in the
rest of Europe. After all, according to the Ten Commandments
in the Bible, “Thou shalt not make graven images” and “Thou
shalt not worship nor serve them”.
Traces of the damage caused
by the iconoclasts can still be
seen today in some places,
such as this retable in Utrecht.
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THE HIST OR Y OF THE NE THERLANDS 57
Where to See Calvinist
Netherlands
Strict Calvinism can be found
in the Netherlands’ “Bible belt”,
which stretches from Zeeland
and southeastern South
Holland via the Veluwe to
the cape of Overijssel and
Drenthe. The strict Sunday
worship, black clothes and
head coverings when
attending church, as well
as abstinence from modern
developments (such as
television and vaccinations),
Pieter Saenredam (1597–1665) painted unrivalled pictures are gradually disappearing.
of the plain Calvinist churches – this one is Interior of the Sint- However, when visiting such
Odolphuskerk in Assendelft. areas, do remember that
photography and driving are
still not looked upon kindly
in Reformed Church villages.
These communities are closed,
with strong social controls.
Calvinist villages worth visiting
are Goedereede (see p245), in
South Holland, and Staphorst
Priceless
stained-glass (see p324), in Overijssel, as well
windows are as the former Zuiderzee island
systematically of Urk (see p330), where older
smashed to people continue to wear
pieces. traditional dress.
The leaders of
the Iconoclastic
Riots came from
all classes of the
population. In
addition to
fervent Calvinists,
there were also
paid helpers and
all kinds of
hangers-on
who used the
opportunity
to do some
plundering.
Early to Church by A. Allebé
Clandestine Churches
When, in 1597, the Union of Utrecht proclaimed mandatory Calvinist
services throughout the Netherlands and Zeeland, a blind eye – in return
for payment – was turned to other confessions. Catholics, Remonstrants
and Mennonites held their services in secret churches, which were
unrecognizable as such from the outside. They were generally held in
town houses, although later they were held in secret churches that were
built for the purpose, particularly in Amsterdam, with De Zon and De
Rode Hoed. The St Gertrudis kapel (1645) in Utrecht and Ons’ Lieve Heer
op Solder (1663, now the Amstelkring Museum) in Amsterdam are the
Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder finest surviving early examples of these institutions.
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58 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
From Republic to Kingdom
After the death of the powerful stadholder William III,
the republic no longer played an important role within
Europe. Britain took over as the principal maritime and Amsterdam
trading power. At the end of the 18th century, a long Rotterdam
dispute began between the House of Orange and
democratically minded patriots, which was resolved in Antwerp
Brussels
favour of the latter with the founding of the Batavian
Republic (1795). After the Napoleonic era, the House of The Low Countries in 1800
Orange returned to power, this time not as stadholder Batavian Republic
but as monarch. In 1839, the borders of the present-day French territory
Netherlands were finally established.
The British ensign flying on the English
warship the Warrior, the boat which brought
William I back to the Netherlands.
William I Landing
at Scheveningen
In 1813, almost 20 years after the House of
Orange had been ousted by the patriots,
Prince William returned to the Netherlands.
He landed on the shore at Scheveningen,
the same place where his father had
departed for England. Two days later, he
was inaugurated as sovereign. In 1815, he
also claimed possession of present-day
Belgium and pronounced himself king of
the Netherlands.
Goejanverwellesluis
In 1785, the patriots took power, and
the stadholder William V and his wife
Wilhelmina of Prussia fled from The Hague.
Wilhelmina attempted to return in 1787
but was stopped at Goejanverwellesluis.
It was at this point that the Prussian king The prince is lowered from the ship in a rowboat, but a
decided to send troops to restore the farmer’s wagon from the beach picks him up to take him
ashore through the surf.
power of the stadholder.
1756–1763 The great powers
1702–1747 Second 1747 William IV “the Frisian” of Europe become embroiled
stadholder-free period becomes hereditary in the Seven Years War. The 1791 Abolition of
stadholder of all provinces republic remains neutral the Dutch West
India Company
1700 1720 1740 1760 1780
The city hall of 1786 The patriots take hold of
Utrecht, where the power in various towns. The rule of
1713 The Peace of Utrecht Peace of Utrecht stadholder William V is restored in 1795–1806
marks the end of the was signed 1787 with the help of Prussia The
republic as a great power Batavian
Republic
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THE HIST OR Y OF THE NE THERLANDS 59
The Schools Controversy
The 19th-century schools
controversy between liberals and
denominational supporters was
over the inequality between
independent education and public
education. Under HJAM Schaepman
and Abraham Kuyper, Catholics
and Protestants joined forces
and in 1889 laid the found ations
The Siege of Bergen op Zoom for government subsidies for
During the War of Austrian Succession, the French occupied independent education.
the Southern Netherlands, which had been a possession of
Austria. In order to strengthen their hand at the peace
negotiations vis-à-vis the republic, in 1747 they also
annexed Zeeland Flanders and the fortified town of Bergen.
The church
of the fishing
village of
Scheveningen
is visible in the
background. Dr Schaepman Dr Kuyper
Child Labour
The Industrial Revolution led to social deprivation in
the towns. In 1875, Van Houten’s child law was passed,
prohibiting children under age 12 from working as
paid labourers.
The people of The Hague were overjoyed at the return
of the prince. Celebrations were held throughout the
town. The times during which the House of Orange had
been regarded as a “clique of tyrants” were definitely over.
Domela
Nieuwenhuis
1806 Louis Napoleon, 1830 The Belgian 1848 Revision of 1888 First socialist,
the constitution
brother of Napoleon I, Revolution. Nine years and introduction of 1885 Van Gogh paints Domela Nieuwenhuis,
becomes king of Holland later, the Netherlands The Potato Eaters elected to Parliament
and Belgium separate parliamentary system
1780 1800 1820 1840 1860 1880 1900
1839 Haarlem–Amsterdam 1870 Abolition
1815 The Northern and railway opens of the death
1798 Abolition of Southern Netherlands are penalty
the Dutch East united under William I 1886 Parliamentary
India Company 1863 Abolition inquiry reveals dire
Steam train of slavery conditions in factories
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60 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
Colonialism
Dutch colonial history started in the 17th century when trading
settlements were established in Asia, Africa and America. Many
colonies were lost during the course of time, but the Dutch Indies
(Indonesia), Suriname and the Dutch Antilles remained under Dutch
rule until far into the 20th century. In the Indonesian archipelago,
Dutch power was for a long time limited to Java and the Moluccas.
It was only in 1870 that a start was made on subjugating the
remaining islands. Indonesia gained independence in 1949 and Tortured Slave
Suriname in 1975. The Antilles, Aruba and the Netherlands are now Rebellion was
equal parts of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. cruelly punished.
Jan Pieterszoon Coen
Appointed governor-general
in 1618, Jan Pieterszoon Coen
devastated the Javanese
settlement of Jakarta in 1619,
founding in its place the new
administrative centre of Batavia. He
bolstered the position of the Dutch
East India Company on the spice
islands (the Moluccas) and is
considered one of the founding
fathers of Dutch colonialism.
Selling female slaves half-
naked at auctions was
condemned by Holland.
Slave Market in
Suriname
In total, over 300,000
slaves were shipped to
Session of the Landraad the Dutch colony of
This landraad, or joint court, is
presided over by the assistant Suriname to work the
resident. The landraad was plantations. The slave
the civil and criminal common- trade was abolished in
law court for native Indonesians 1819, though slavery
and all non-European foreigners itself was not abolished
in the Dutch Indies. The court until 1863, making
could, with government approval, Holland the last Western
inflict the death penalty. European power to do so.
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THE HIST OR Y OF THE NE THERLANDS 61
Multatuli
The writer Multatuli, in his
novel from 1860, Max
Havelaar, condemned
colonial rule in the Dutch
Indies. In the book’s final
chapter, the author
directly addresses King
William III, in whose name
the people of the Indies
Batavia During the 17th Century were being exploited.
This painting by Andries Beeckman shows
the fish market with the “Kasteel” in the
background, from which the Dutch ruled
over the strategic Sunda Strait.
The Establishment of Cape Town
In 1652, Jan van Riebeeck set up a supply
station for ships of the Dutch East India
Company en route to the Indies. The
settlement soon grew into a Dutch colony,
which was settled by immigrants from the
republic, and to a lesser extent from France
(Huguenots) and Germany. Those who moved
farther inland were later to become the Boers
(“farmers”) or Afrikaaners. In 1806, the Cape
Colony was taken over by the British Empire.
Kris from Java
Many travellers to the
Indies brought back
characteristic items to
Holland. The Javanese kris
was a favourite souvenir.
The auctioneer sits
taking notes at the table.
The slaves whom he is Colonial Wares
selling were delivered by From the end of the 19th
special traders. Until 1734, century, a number of Dutch
slaves were auctioned grocers offered for sale
exclusively by the Dutch
West India Company, “colonial wares” such as coffee,
which had the monopoly tea, rice, sugar and various
on the slave trade. exotic eastern herbs and
spices, including the much-
prized peppercorns, cloves,
nutmeg, mace and cinnamon.
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62 INTRODUCING THE NE THERLANDS
The Modern Netherlands
Neutrality during World War I meant that the Netherlands
survived the first decades of the 20th century relatively
unscathed. However, the economic crisis of the 1930s and
particularly World War II left deep wounds. In 1957, as the Amsterdam
country was rebuilding, it became one of the six founding Rotterdam
members of the European Economic Community (EEC).
The Dutch welfare state flourished in the 1960s and Maastricht
1970s, and Amsterdam’s tradition of tolerance made it
a haven for the hippy culture. In a survey carried out by The Netherlands Today
the United Nations in 2015, the Netherlands ranked fifth
in the list of best countries to live in.
1917 The magazine De Stijl
is set up by figures from
the movement of the same
name, such as Theo van
Doesburg, Piet Mondriaan
and JJP Oud
1949 Holland
recognizes the
1930–1940 During independence
the economic crisis of its for mer 1953 On 1 February, storms
of the 1930s, colony Indonesia cause severe flooding in Zeeland
hundreds of and South Holland, drowning
thousands of Dutch more than 1,800 people
are unemployed
1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
TIMELINE
1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
1926 Road tax
1918 German introduced.
kaiser Wilhelm II Approximately
flees to Holland, 10,000 lorries
where he is and 30,000 1948 Willem Drees
given asylum cars are on
the roads Sr becomes prime
of Holland minister of four
successive Catholic
socialist Drees
cabinets and lays the
foundations of the
Dutch welfare state
1962 The release of
Jan Vrijman’s film De
1934 KLM’s plane “Uiver”, a DC-2, wins the werkelijkheid van
handicap section in the London– Karel Appel brings
Melbourne air race the postwar Dutch
painter to the
attention of the
general public. Karel
Appel (b. 1921)
caused a sensation
with his statement:
“I’ll just mess
something up”
1940 On 10 May,
Nazi troops
enter Holland.
Rotterdam
capitulates on
14 May. Despite
this, the city
is bombed
062-063_EW_Netherlands.indd 62 16/01/17 12:03 pm
THE HIST OR Y OF THE NE THERLANDS 63
2000 The Dutch
team at the Sydney
1985 A government
decision to deploy 48 Olympics wins a
NATO cruise missiles on record 25 medals,
Dutch territory causes a including 12 golds
storm of opposition. The
Komité Kruisraketten Nee
(anti-cruise coalition)
submits a petition of 3.5
million signatures
to Prime Minister
Lubbers in October 1995 Paul Crutzen
is awarded the
Nobel Prize for
Chemistry for his
ground-breaking
investigations of 2002 On 2 February Crown Prince
the ozone layer Wilem-Alexander marries Argentinian
Máxima Zorreguieta in Amsterdam’s
1975 Holland Beurs van Berlage
recognizes the
independence
of its former 2010 Geert Wilders’ PVV
colony Suriname gains the most seats in
the elections
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
2004 On 2
1992 Under Dutch November,
presidency, the
1980 The KVP, ARP controversial
and CHU combine European partners filmmaker Theo 2013 Willem-Alexander
to form the CDA, sign the draft Van Gogh is becomes king of the
the large Christian Maastricht Treaty in murdered by a Netherlands
Democratic Party 1991. In 1992, the radical Islamist,
treaty, under which spurring a national
the European debate on
Community immigration
becomes the
European Union, 2002 Right-wing politician
is ratified Pym Fortuyn is assassinated
on 6 May
2001 The Netherlands is
the first country to legalize
same-sex marriages
1980 The coronation of Queen
Beatrix on 30 April is accompanied
by heavy battles between police
and anti-monarchy demonstrators
and squatters
1971 Ajax wins
the First Division
European Cup at
Wembley Stadium
in London with star
player Johan Cruijff.
The club continues
as champion in
1972 and 1973
062-063_EW_Netherlands.indd 63 16/01/17 12:03 pm
064-065_EW_Netherlands.indd 64 16/01/17 12:03 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
AMSTERDAM
Introducing Amsterdam 66–73
Oude Zijde 74–85
Nieuwe Zijde 86–97
Canal Ring 98–119
Museum Quarter 120–133
Outside the Centre 134–147
Shopping & Entertainment 148–153
Street Finder 154–163
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66 A MSTERD A M
Amsterdam’s Best: Canals and Waterways
From the grace and elegance of the waterside mansions
along the Grachtengordel (Canal Ring) to the rows of
converted warehouses on Brouwersgracht and the
charming houses on Reguliersgracht, the city’s canals
and waterways embody the very spirit of Amsterdam.
They are spanned by many beautiful bridges, including
the famous Magere Brug (see pp118–19), a traditionally
styled lift bridge. You can also relax at a canalside café Brouwersgracht
or bar and watch an array of boats float by. The banks of this charming canal
are lined with houseboats, cosy
cafés and warehouses.
Bloemgracht
There is a great variety of
architecture along this lovely,
tree-lined canal in the Jordaan,
including a row of houses
with step gables.
NIEUWE
ZIJDE
OUDE
CANAL ZIJDE
RING
Prinsengracht
The best way to see
all the beautiful
buildings along
Amsterdam’s longest
17th-century canal
is by bicycle.
MUSEUM
QUARTER
Leidsegracht
Relax at a pavement Keizersgracht
café along the exclusive A view of this canal can
Leidsegracht. be had from any of
its bridges. If frozen in
winter, this canal is
used for ice skating by
many Amsterdammers,
both young and old.
Façades of buildings along the Damrak canal
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INTRODUCING A MSTERD A M 67
Singel
The Poezenboot, a boat for stray
cats, is just one of the many
sights to be found along the
Singel, whose distinctive,
curved shape established the
horseshoe contours of the
Canal Ring.
Entrepotdok
The warehouses on the
Entrepotdok (see p138)
were redeveloped in the
1980s. The quayside is now
lined in summer with lively
café terraces that overlook
an array of houseboats and
pleasure craft.
NIEUWE
ZIJDE
OUDE
CANAL ZIJDE
RING
Herengracht
Known as “the twin brothers”,
these matching neck-gabled
houses at Nos. 409–411 are
two of the prettiest houses on
the city’s grandest canal.
MUSEUM
QUARTER
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Reguliersgracht
Many crooked, brick
buildings line this pretty
canal, which was cut in 1664.
The statue of a stork, located
at No. 92, is symbolic of Amstel
parental responsibility and This river is still a busy thoroughfare,
commemorates a 1571 with barges and, above all, many
bylaw protecting this bird. sightseeing boats.
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68 A MSTERD A M
The Golden Age of Amsterdam
The 17th century was truly a Golden Age for Amsterdam. The
population soared; three great canals, bordered by splendid
houses, were built in a triple ring round the city; and scores of
painters and architects were at work. Fortunes were made and
lost, and this early capi talism produced many paupers, who
were cared for by charitable institutions – a radical idea for the
time. In 1648, an uneasy peace was formalized with Catholic Spice Trade
Spain, causing tension between Amsterdam’s Calvinist In this old print, a VOC spice
burgomasters and the less religious House of Orange, which trader arrives in Bantam.
was dominant elsewhere in the country.
Livestock and grain trading
Self-Portrait as
the Apostle Paul (1661)
Rembrandt (see p80) was
one of many artists working
in Amsterdam in the mid-
17th century.
The new Stadhuis (now
the Koninklijk Paleis) was
being constructed behind
wooden scaffolding.
Nieuwe Kerk, 1395 (see p90)
Dam Square in 1656
The Love
Letter (1666) Money poured into Amsterdam at this
Genre painting time of civic expansion. Holland was
(see p127), such as active overseas, colonizing Indonesia,
this calm domestic and the spice trade brought enormous
interior by Jan wealth. The Dutch East India Company
Vermeer, became (VOC), the principal trade organization
popular as society in Holland, prospered – gold seemed
grew more almost as common as water. Dutch
sophisticated. Jan painter Jan Lingelbach (c.1624–74)
Steen, Honthorst depicted the city’s Dam square as
and Terborch were a busy, thriving and cosmopolitan
other famous market, brimming with traders and
genre painters.
wealthy merchants.
Delft Tiles
Delicate flower paintings were
popular themes on 17th-century
Delft tiles (see pp32–3), used as
decoration in wealthy households.
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INTRODUCING A MSTERD A M 69
Flora’s Bandwagon (1636)
Many allegories were painted Where to See
during “tulip mania”. This satirical 17th-century
oil by HG Pot symbolizes the Amsterdam
idiocy of investors who paid for
rare bulbs with their weight in Many public buildings, such
gold, forcing prices up until as churches and palaces,
the market collapsed. sprang up as Amsterdam
grew more wealthy. The
Westerkerk (see p114) was
designed by Hendrick de
Keyser in 1620; the Lutherse
Kerk (see p94) by Adriaan
Dortsman in 1671. Elias
Commodities Bouman built
weighed at the Portugees
the Waag Israëlitische
Synagoge (see
Ships sailing up the Damrak p82) in 1675 for
members of the
city’s immigrant
Sephardic
Spices Jewish
A load of spices was community.
worth a fortune in the
17th century. The VOC
traded in a great variety
of these costly spices,
pri marily pepper,
nutmeg, cloves, mace
and cinnamon.
As early as 1611
the VOC was the Apollo (c.1648) Artus
largest importer Quellien’s statue is in
of spices. the South Gallery of the
Koninklijk Paleis (see pp92–3).
Construction of the palace,
a masterwork by Jacob van
Campen, began in 1648.
Cargo unloaded Turkish traders Pepper, nutmeg, cloves,
by cranes mace, cinnamon
VOC
In the
Scheepvaart
Museum (see
pp136–7), an
entire room is
dedicated to
the Dutch East
India Company.
Giving the Bread
This painting by
Willem van Valckert
shows the city’s
needy receiving Museum het
alms. A rudimen Rembrandthuis (1606)
tary welfare Jacob van Campen
system was added the pediment
introduced in in 1633 (see p80).
the 1640s.
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70 A MSTERD A M
Amsterdam’s Best: Museums
For a fairly small city, Amsterdam has a
surprisingly large number of museums and Anne Frank Huis
galleries. The quality and variety of the Anne Frank’s photo is
exhibited in the house
collections are impressive, covering everything where she hid during
from bibles and beer to shipbuilding and World War II.
space travel. Many are housed in buildings
of historical or architectural interest. The
Rijksmuseum, with its Gothic façade, is a city
landmark, and Rembrandt’s work is exhibited
in his original home.
Amsterdam Museum
A wealth of historical
information is on display here.
Once an orphanage for boys,
it is depicted in Governesses at
the Bur gher Orphanage (1683)
by Adriaen Backer (see pp96–7).
NIEUWE
ZIJDE
Rijksmuseum
An extensive collection of
paintings by Dutch masters OUDE
can be seen in the ZIJDE
country’s largest national
museum. Jan van Huysum’s CANAL
Still Life with Fruit and
Flowers, dating from about RING
1730, is a fine example
(see pp126–9).
MUSEUM
QUARTER
Stedelijk Museum
Gerrit Rietveld’s simple Steltman chair
(1963) is one of many exhibits at this
modern art museum (see pp132–3).
Van Gogh Museum
Van Gogh’s Self-portrait with Straw Hat (1870)
hangs in this large, stark building, built in 1973 to
house the bulk of his work. A chic glass entrance
hall was added in 2015 (see pp130–31).
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INTRODUCING A MSTERD A M 71
Koninklijk Paleis
The royal palace on
the Dam, a former
town hall designed
in 1648 by Jacob van
Campen, is still
regularly used today
by the queen on
official occasions
(see pp92–3).
NEMO Science Museum
This amazing building, designed in
the form of a ship, overhangs the
water by 30 m (99 ft) and houses an
educational centre for science and
technology (see pp140–41).
NIEUWE
ZIJDE
Scheepvaart Museum
OUDE This maritime museum is
ZIJDE decorated with reliefs relating to
the city’s maritime history. Moored
alongside is a replica of the East
CANAL Indiaman, Amsterdam, which is
RING
open to the public (see pp136–7).
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
MUSEUM
QUARTER
Verzetsmuseum
Located in the Plantage, this
museum documents and
Joods Historisch Museum commemorates the activities
Four adjoining synagogues are linked of Dutch Resistance workers
to form this museum (see p81). in World War II (see p145).
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72 A MSTERD A M
Amsterdam’s Best: Cafés
Amsterdam is a city of cafés and bars, about 1,500
in all. Each area has something to offer, from
friendly and relaxed brown cafés – a traditional
Dutch local pub characterized by dark wooden
panelling and furniture, low ceilings, dim lighting
and smoke-stained ceilings – to lively and crowded De Drie Fleschjes
designer bars. Each café and bar has some special In one of the oldest pubs
attraction: a large range of beers, live music, (1650) of Amsterdam, you
canalside terraces, art exhibitions, board games can choose from a wide
and pool tables or simply a brand of gezelligheid, variety of gins.
the unique Dutch concept of “cosiness”.
Café Chris
This brown café,
allegedly the oldest
café in the Jordaan,
is patronized
by regular
customers (artists NIEUWE
and students). ZIJDE
OUDE
CANAL ZIJDE
Walem RING
This designer eatery, one of
Amsterdam’s oldest cafés,
has a sunny canal terrace
and is popular with the
international crowd.
MUSEUM
QUARTER
Groot Melkhuis
Originally a farm dating back to
1874, this modern café is very
popular, especially on warm
summer days.
Hoppe
The dark wooden interior and tang
of cigar smoke in the air are the
essence of this classic brown café,
situated on the lively Spui.
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INTRODUCING A MSTERD A M 73
Karpershoek
This lively café (the oldest café in
Amsterdam) is close to the Centraal
Station and is frequented by travellers
looking for a cup of coffee.
Kapitein Zeppos
This café, frequented by
trendy Amsterdammers,
NIEUWE often hosts live concerts
ZIJDE on Sunday afternoons.
OUDE
CANAL ZIJDE
RING
De Jaren
Popular with students,
0 metres 500 this trendy two-storey
0 yards 500 café has a superb view of
MUSEUM the Amstel and a wide
QUARTER selection of newspapers.
0 kilometres 3
0 miles 3
Grand Café Soccerworld
In the café of the arena you can
admire the football shirts of the
famous Ajax team.
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OUDEZIJDS KOLK
E A D
G E L D E R S E K A D E R E K KROMME S PRI N S HEND RI KKADE
Z E E D I J K E
KORTE
NIEZEL
D
OUDE
L
KERKS PL BLOEDSTR G E NIEUWE RIDDERSTRAAT Waalseilandsgracht SCHIPPERS STRAAT
WAAL
MOLEN ST
A C HTERB UR GWA L
VOORBURGWAL
O U D E Z I J D S A C H T E R B U R G W A L NIEUW Nieuw- STR KORTE W A A L OOSTERSE ‘S-GRAVENHEKJE PRINS HENDRIKKADE
MONNIKEN
STR
KALKMARKT
O U D E
NIEUWE JONKERSTRAAT
B I N N E N K A N T
MARKT
REC HT BO
PEPERSTRAAT
BARNDEST
RECHT BOOMSSLOOT
markt
KROM BOOMSSLOOT
KOESTR
KONINGS
OUDEZIJDS O U D EZI J D S HOOGSTR HOOGSTR ST ANTONIESBREESTR A AT KRO M B O OMSSLOOT OMSSL OOT O U D E S C H A N S KADE FOELI E STRAAT NIEUWE FOELIESTR
O U D E S C H A N S
OUDE
RAPENBURG
NIEUWE UILENBURGERSTRAAT
K L O V E N I E R S B U R G W A L
Oudeschans
SCHIPPERS GRACHT
NIEUWE
VA L K E N B U R G E R S T R A AT
RUSLAND
SLIJKSTR K L O V E N I E R S B U R G W A L RAAMGRACHT U i l e n b u r g e r g r a c h t ANNE F RANKSTR
RAAMGRACHT
GROENBURGWAL J O D E N B R E E S T R A AT VA L K E N B U R G E R S T R A A T
JODENHOUTTUINEN
VENDEL G R O E N B U R G WA L ZWANENBURGWAL R A P E N B U R G E R S T R A A T
STR WATERLOOPLEIN
NIEUWE STAAL KADE STR Waterlooplein MR VISSER PLEIN MUIDERSTRAAT N I E U W E H E R E N G R A C H T
DOELENSTR
STAAL
WATERLOOPLEIN
NIEUWE AMSTELSTR
A m s t e l
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A MSTERD A M 75
OUDE ZIJDE
The eastern half of Amsterdam became of Jewish refugees from Portugal. The oldest
known as the Oude Zijde (Old Side). of the four synagogues, now containing the
Originally it occupied a narrow strip on Joods Historisch Museum, dates from this
the east bank of the Amstel river, running period. These were central to Jewish life
between Damrak and the Oudezijds in the city for centuries. During the Golden
Voorburgwal. At its heart was built the Oude Age (see pp54–5), the Oude Zijde was an
Kerk, the oldest church in the city. In the important commercial centre. Boats could
early 15th century the Oude Zijde began an sail up the Geldersekade to Nieuwmarkt,
eastward expansion that continued into the where goods were weighed at the Waag
1600s. This growth was fuelled by an influx before being sold at the market.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Opera Houses t Portugees-Israëlitische Synagoge
Monuments q Stadhuis-Muziektheater a Oude Kerk pp84–5
2 Waag Museums Streets and Markets
5 Agnietenkapel 4 Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum 1 Red Light District
6 Oudemanhuispoort 0 Museum het Rembrandthuis 3 Nieuwmarkt
7 De Waalse Kerk r Joods Historisch Museum w Waterlooplein
8 Trippenhuis p Zeedijk
y Pintohuis Churches and Synagogues
u Montelbaanstoren 9 Zuiderkerk
i Scheepvaarthuis e Mozes en Aäronkerk
o Schreierstoren
OUDEZIJDS KOLK
E A D See also Street Finder
G E L D E R S E K A D E R E K KROMME S PRI N S HEND RI KKADE maps 2 & 5
Z E E D I J K E
KORTE
NIEZEL
D
OUDE
KERKS PL BLOEDSTR G E L NIEUWE RIDDERSTRAAT Waalseilandsgracht SCHIPPERS STRAAT
WAAL
MOLEN ST
A C HTERB UR GWA L
VOORBURGWAL
O U D E Z I J D S A C H T E R B U R G W A L NIEUW Nieuw- RECHT BOOMSSLOOT W A A L OOSTERSE ‘S-GRAVENHEKJE PRINS HENDRIKKADE
MONNIKEN
STR
KALKMARKT
O U D E
NIEUWE JONKERSTRAAT
B I N N E N K A N T
MARKT
REC HT BO
PEPERSTRAAT
BARNDEST
markt
KROM BOOMSSLOOT
KOESTR
KORTE
STR
OUDEZIJDS O U D EZI J D S HOOGSTR HOOGSTR ST ANTONIESBREESTR A AT KRO M B O OMSSLOOT OMSSL OOT O U D E S C H A N S KADE FOELI E STRAAT NIEUWE FOELIESTR
KONINGS
O U D E S C H A N S
OUDE
RAPENBURG
NIEUWE UILENBURGERSTRAAT
K L O V E N I E R S B U R G W A L
Oudeschans
SCHIPPERS GRACHT
NIEUWE
VA L K E N B U R G E R S T R A AT
RUSLAND
SLIJKSTR K L O V E N I E R S B U R G W A L RAAMGRACHT U i l e n b u r g e r g r a c h t ANNE F RANKSTR
RAAMGRACHT
GROENBURGWAL J O D E N B R E E S T R A AT VA L K E N B U R G E R S T R A A T
JODENHOUTTUINEN
VENDEL G R O E N B U R G WA L ZWANENBURGWAL R A P E N B U R G E R S T R A A T
STR WATERLOOPLEIN N I E U W E H E R E N G R A C H T
NIEUWE
DOELENSTR STAAL KADE STR Waterlooplein MR VISSER PLEIN MUIDERSTRAAT
STAAL
WATERLOOPLEIN
NIEUWE AMSTELSTR
A m s t e l
0 metres 250
0 yards 250
The impressive Oude Kerk, Amsterdam’s oldest building For map symbols see back flap
074-075_EW_Netherlands.indd 75 16/01/17 11:53 am
76 A MSTERD A M
Street-by-Street: University District
The University of Amsterdam, founded
in 1877, is predominantly located in the 1 . Red Light District
The sex industry brings
peaceful, southwestern part of the Oude billions of euros to
Zijde. The university’s roots lie in the former Amsterdam every year.
Athenaeum Illustre, which was founded
in 1632 in the Agnieten kapel. Beyond
Damstraat, the bustling Red Light District
meets the Nieuwmarkt, where the
15th-century Waag evokes a medieval air.
South of the Nieuwmarkt, Museum Het
Rembrandt huis gives a fascinating insight
into the life of the city’s most famous artist.
4 Hash Marihuana
Hemp Museum
This museum
showcases L
marijuana A
through B U R G W A L W
the ages. G
R
U
R
O B
O R
V E
T S
H R
S C E
D A N I
J E
I V
Z
L O
E
D K
U
O R U S L A N D
S
D
7 De Waalse Kerk J
Built in the early Z I
1400s, this church D E
was frequently visited U
by Vincent van Gogh. O
Services are still con-
ducted here today.
5 Agnietenkapel L
Like many buildings in this W A
area, the chapel belongs to R G
the University of Amsterdam. U
B
N
E
O
House (1610), unusually G R
facing three canals
6 Oudemanhuispoort
The spectacles carved on the
gateway into this 18th-century
almshouse for elderly men Lift bridge over
symbolize old age. Groenburgwal
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp396–7 and pp406–9
076-077_EW_Netherlands.indd 76 16/01/17 11:53 am
OUDE ZIJDE 77
3 Nieuwmarkt
8 Trippenhuis Despite redevelopment NIEUWE
Although it appears to southeast of this once- ZUIDE
be a single 17th-century important market square, the
mansion, this building is Nieuwmarkt itself is still OUIDE
in fact two houses, the bordered by many fine ZIJDE
middle windows being 17th- and 18th-century
false to preserve gabled houses. CANAL
the symmetry. RING
Locator Map
N I E U W –
See Street Finder maps 1, 2 & 5
M A R K T
L
W A
G
R
U
B
S
R 2 . Waag
E Amsterdam’s only remaining medieval
I
N gatehouse now houses a café-restaurant.
E
V
L O
K 9 Zuiderkerk
This prominent city landmark
is now used as a wedding and
conference venue.
Key
Recommended route
R A A M G R A C H T
L L
W A W A
G R G P L E I N
R U
U B
W A T E R L O O –
B N
N E 0 metres 50
E N
O 0 yards 50
R W A
G Z
0 . Museum het
Rembrandthuis
Hundreds of
Rembrandt’s etchings
are on display in the
artist’s former home.
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78 A MSTERD A M
1 Red Light District 2 Waag
Map 5 A1. v 4, 9, 16. Nieuwmarkt 4. Map 2 E5. v 4, 9, 16.
q Nieuwmarkt. Closed Upper Rooms:
Barely clad prostitutes bathed closed to the public.
in a red neon glow and touting
for business at their windows The multiturreted Waag is
is one of the defining images the city’s oldest surviving
of modern Amsterdam. The gatehouse. Built in 1488, it
city’s Red Light District, referred was then, and often still is,
to locally as de Walletjes (the called St Antoniespoort. Public
little walls), is concentrated on exe cutions were held here, and
the Oude Kerk (see pp84–5), condemned prisoners awaited
although it extends as far as their fate in the “little gallows
Warmoesstraat to the west, room”. In 1617, the building
the Zeedijk to the north, the became the public weigh
Kloveniersburgwal to the east Entrance to one of the clubs in the Red house (waaggebouw). Peasants
and then along the line of Light District had their produce weighed
Damstraat to the south. here and paid tax accordingly.
Prostitution in Amsterdam Today, the whole area is criss Various guilds used the upper
dates back to the city’s emer crossed by a network of narrow rooms of each tower. From
gence as a port in the 13th lanes, dominated by garish sex 1619 the Guild of Surgeons had
century. By 1478, prostitution shops, seedy clubs and unsavoury a meeting room and anatomy
had become so widespread that characters. At night, the little theatre here. They added the
attempts were made to contain alleys assume a somewhat central octagonal tower in
it. Prostitutes straying outside sinister aspect, and it is unwise 1691. Rembrandt’s Anatomy
their designated area were to wander away from the main Lesson of Dr Nicholaes Tulp, now
marched back to the sound streets. But by day, hordes of in the Mauritshuis (see pp226–7),
of pipe and drum. visitors generate a festive buzz, and The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Jan
A century later, following and amid the sleaze there are Deijman, in the Amsterdam
the Alteration, the Calvinists interesting cafés, bars, rest Museum (see pp96–7), were
(see pp56–7) tried to outlaw aurants and beautiful canalside commissioned by guild members
prostitution altogether. Their houses to be discovered. The and then hung here.
attempts were halfhearted, city council is trying to make the The weigh house closed in
and by the mid17th century area more culturally attractive the early 19th century and the
prostitution was openly toler by cutting down on window Waag has since served as a fire
ated. In 1850, Amsterdam had a prostitutes, closing the seediest station and two city museums.
population of 200,000, and clubs and encouraging nonsex It is now home to the restaurant
more than 200 brothels. industry businesses. In de Waag.
The 15th-century Waag dominating the Nieuwmarkt, with an antique market on the right
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp396–7 and pp406–9
078-079_EW_Netherlands.indd 78 16/01/17 12:03 pm
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OUDE ZIJDE 79
used the plant for medicines forty portraits of European
and clothing. It was first used in humanist scholars, including
the Netherlands, according to a one of Erasmus (1466–1536).
herbal manual of 1554, as a cure The Agnietenkapel once
for earache. housed the University of
Until the late 19th century, Amsterdam Museum; now the
however, hemp was the main museum’s collection can be
source of fibre for rope, and seen in Oude Turfmarkt 129
was therefore important in the (next to the Allard Pierson
Dutch shipping industry. Other Museum). A conference centre
Part of the commemorative photo display exhibits relate to the psycho ac- has taken its place.
in Nieuwmarkt metro station tive properties of this plant. They
include an intriguing array
3 Nieuwmarkt of pipes and bongs (smoking
devices), along with displays that
Map 2 E5. v 4, 9, 16. q Nieuwmarkt.
Antiques market: Open May–Sep: 9am– explain smuggling methods.
5pm Sun. ( Organic farmers’ market: The museum also has a small
Open 9am–5pm Sat. cultivation area where plants
are grown under artificial light.
An open, paved square, the Police sometimes raid and take
Nieuwmarkt is flanked to the west away exhibits, so there may be
by the Red Light District. With the occasional gaps in displays.
top end of the Geldersekade, it
forms Amsterdam’s Chinatown.
The Waag dominates the square, 5 Agnietenkapel
and construction of this gateway Oudezijds Voorburgwal 231. Map 2 D5.
led to the site’s development in v 4, 9, 14, 16. Closed to the public.
the 15th century as a market-
place. When the city expanded The Agnietenkapel was part
in the 17th century (see pp68–9), of the convent of St Agnes
the square took on its present until 1578 when it was closed
dimensions and was called the after the Alteration. In 1632,
Nieuwmarkt. It retains an array of the Athenaeum Illustre, the Entrance to Agnietenkapel, now a
17th- and 18th-century gabled precursor of the University university conference centre
houses. True to tradition, an of Amsterdam, took over the
antiques market is held on building and by the mid- 6 Oudemanhuis‑
Sundays during the summer. 17th century it was a centre
The old Jewish Quarter of scientific learning. It also poort
leads off the square down housed the municipal library Between Oudezijds Achterburgwal
St Antoniesbreestraat. In the until the 1830s. The and Kloveniersburgwal. Map 2 D5.
1970s, many houses here were Agnietenkapel itself dates from v 4, 9, 14, 16. Book market:
demolished to make way for 1470, and is one of the few Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat.
the metro, sparking off clashes Gothic chapels to have survived
between protesters and police. the Alteration. During The Oudemanhuispoort was
The action of con ser vationists restoration from 1919 to 1921, once the entrance to old people’s
persuaded the council to adopt elements of the Amsterdam almshouses (Oudemannenhuis),
a policy of renovating rather School architecture were built in 1754. Today the building
than redeveloping old buildings. introduced (see pp146–7). is part of the University of
Photographs of their protests Despite these changes Amsterdam.The pediment
decorate the metro station. and long periods over the gateway in
of secular use, the Oudezijds
4 Hash Marihuana the building Achterburgwal
features a pair
still has the
Hemp Museum feel of a of spectacles,
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148. Franciscan a symbol
Map 2 D5. Tel 020-6248926. v 4, 9, chapel. The large of old age.
14, 16. q Nieuwmarkt. Open 10am– auditorium on the Crest of Amsterdam, Trading inside this
10pm. Closed 27 Apr. & = first floor is the oldest Oudemanhuispoort covered walkway dates
in the city. It has a from 1757 and today
This museum, which has a lovely ceiling, painted with there is a market for second-hand
branch in Barcelona, charts the Renaiss ance motifs and a books. Although the building is
history of hemp (marijuana). portrait of Minerva, the Roman closed to the public, visitors may
Exhibits refer back 8,000 years to goddess of wisdom and the enter the 18th-century courtyard
early Asiatic civilizations, which arts. The walls are hung with via the arcade.
078-079_EW_Netherlands.indd 79 16/01/17 12:03 pm
80 A MSTERD A M
7 De Waalse Kerk
Walenpleintje 157–159. Map 2 D5.
Tel 020-6232074. v 4, 9, 14, 16.
q Nieuwmarkt. Open for service
and events only. 5 11am Sun.
The origin of this church dates
back to 1409, when it started as
a convent for laymen monks and
was known as Paulusbroederkerk
(Brother Paul Monastery). After
1550 it was handed over to
the Huguenots – Protestant
refugees from France – and
was renamed Église Wallone.
Services and regular lectures are
still conducted here in French.
The building boasts splendid
acoustics and an impressive
organ built by Christiaan Müller,
one of the finest remaining in the
world. The church is often used
for concerts and various events.
8 Trippenhuis
Kloveniersburgwal 29. Map 2 E5.
v 4, 9, 14, 16. q Nieuwmarkt.
Closed to the public.
Justus Vingboons designed
this ornate Classical mansion,
completed in 1662. It appears
to be one house: it is in fact two.
The façade, outlined by eight The spire of the Zuiderkerk, a prominent city landmark
Corinthian columns, features
false middle windows. The The Zuiderkerk ceased to were conducted in the attic. A
house was designed for arms function as a church in 1929. fine collection of Rembrandt’s
merchants Lodewijk and It was restored in 1988 and is etchings and drawings includes
Hendrick Trip; the chimneys now a commercial venue for various self-portraits. There are
look like cannons. The city’s art events and private dinners. also landscapes, nude studies,
collection was housed here in The surrounding community religious and crowd scenes, and
1817–85, when it moved to the housing includes the “Pentagon” sketches of the artist with his
Rijksmuseum (see pp126–9). by Theo Bosch. wife. The house has undergone
Trippenhuis now houses the historically accurate restoration
Dutch Academy. Opposite at 0 Museum het and a further wing has been
No. 26 is the Kleine Trippenhuis opened to the public.
(1698). Only 2.5 m (7 ft) wide, Rembrandthuis
it has detailed cornicing, Jodenbreestraat 4–6. Map 2 E5.
including two carved sphinxes. Tel 020-5200400. v 9, 14.
q Nieuwmarkt. Open 10am–6pm
daily. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec.
9 Zuiderkerk & = - 8 ∑ rembrandthuis.nl
Zuiderkerkhof 72. Map 2 E5. Tel 020-
5527987. v 9, 14. q Nieuwmarkt. Rembrandt worked and taught
∑ zuiderkerk.amsterdam.nl in this house from 1639 until
1660. He lived in the ground-floor
Designed by Hendrick de Keyser rooms with his wife, Saskia, who
in 1603 in the Renaissance style, died here in 1642, leaving the
the Zuiderkerk was the first artist with their only surviving
Calvinist church to open in child, a baby son, Titus.
Amsterdam after the Alteration. Many of Rembrandt’s most
The spire has columns, decora- famous paintings were created Self-portrait by Rembrandt with his wife,
tive clocks and an onion dome. in the first-floor studio. Lessons Saskia (1636)
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp396–7 and pp406–9
080-081_EW_Netherlands.indd 80 16/01/17 11:53 am
OUDE ZIJDE 81
q Stadhuis– w Waterlooplein figures depicted on the gable
Muziektheater Map 5 B2. v 9, 14. q Waterlooplein. stones of the original building.
Market: Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, These are now set into the
Waterlooplein 22. Map 5 B2. v 4, rear wall.
9, 14. q Waterlooplein. Stadhuis: 8:30am–5pm Sat. The church was restored in
Tel 020-6241111. Open 8:30am– The Waterlooplein dates from 1990, its twin wooden towers
4pm Mon–Fri (free concerts Sep–May: 1882, when two canals were painted to look like sandstone.
12:30pm Tue). Muziektheater: Tel 020-
6255455. See Entertainment pp150–51. filled in to create a market It is now used for exhibitions,
7 8 ∑ hetmuziektheater.nl square. The site was originally public meetings and concerts.
known as Vlooyenburg, an
Few buildings in Amsterdam artificial island built in the 17th
caused as much controversy as century to house Jewish settlers.
the new Stadhuis (city hall) and The original market disappeared
Muziektheater (opera house). during World War II when most
Nicknamed the “Stopera” by of the Jewish residents of
protesters, the plan required Amsterdam were transported
the destruction of dozens of east by the Nazis. After the war,
medieval houses, which were a popular flea market grew up
virtually all that remained of in its place, and today the
the original Jewish quarter, northern end of the square still
and the temporary relocation hosts a lively mix of stalls.
of a popular market. This led
to running battles between e Mozes en The central hall in the Grote Synagoge,
squatters and the police. which opened in 1671
The building, completed Aäronkerk r Joods Historisch
in 1988, is a huge confection Waterlooplein 205. Map 5 B2.
of red brick, marble and Tel 020-6221305. v 9, 14. Museum
glass. A mural illustrating the q Waterlooplein. Closed to the Jonas Daniel Meijerplein 2–4.
Normaal Amsterdams Peil is public except for exhibitions. Map 5 B2. Tel 020-5310310. v 9, 14.
shown on the arcade linking 4 Muziektheater. q Waterlooplein.
the two parts of the complex. Designed by Flemish architect Open 11am–5pm daily. Closed 27 Apr,
The complex has the largest T Suys the Elder in 1841, Mozes Jewish New Year, Yom Kippur. & 7
auditorium in the country, en Aäronkerk was built on - 8 on request, incl. for the visually
and it is also home to the the site of a hidden Catholic handicapped. 9 = ∑ jhm.nl
Netherlands’ national opera church. The later church took its
and ballet companies. name from the Old Testament This complex of four
synagogues, built by Ashkenazi
Jews in the 17th and 18th
centuries, opened as a museum
in 1987. The synagogues were
central to Jewish life here, until
the devastation of World War II
left them empty. Restored in the
1980s, they are connected by
internal walkways. Displays of
art and religious artifacts depict
Jewish culture and the history
of Judaism in the Netherlands.
Highlights include the Grote
Synagoge, its hall lined with
galleries; and the Holy Ark
(1791) from Enkhuizen (see
p182), which dominates the
Nieuwe Synagoge and holds
two 18th-century silver Torah
shields and three velvet mantles.
Also not to be missed is the
1734 Haggadah containing
the Passover order of service.
The buildings were renovated
in 2006, when a basement print
room was created, and one of
the synagogues turned into a
Eclectic goods on offer at the Waterlooplein market children’s museum.
080-081_EW_Netherlands.indd 81 16/01/17 11:53 am
82 A MSTERD A M
t Portugees- He had it remodelled over the
Israëlitische next decades to a design by Elias
Synagoge Bouman, and it is one of the few
private residences in Amsterdam
Mr Visserplein 3. Map 5 B2. Tel 020- to follow an Italianate style. The
6245351. v 9, 14. q Waterloo plein. exterior design was reworked
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–4pm Sun–Fri; from 1675 to 1680. Six imposing
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Sun–Thu, 10am– pilasters break up the severe,
2pm Fri. Closed Jewish hols, 27 Apr. cream façade into five recessed
& 8 call 020-5310380 to book 7 sections, and the cornice is
= ∑ portugesesynagoge.nl topped by a blind balustrade
Elias Bouman’s design for concealing the roof. Inside, the
the Portugees-Israëlitische painted ceiling is decorated
Synagoge is said to be inspired with birds and cherubs.
by the Temple of Solomon In the 1970s, the house was
in Jerusalem. Built for the scheduled for demolition One of many stone carvings on the
wealthy Portuguese Sephardic because it stood in the way of Scheepvaarthuis façade
community of Amsterdam and a newly planned main road.
inaugurated in 1675, the huge Concerted protest saved the i Scheepvaarthuis
brick building has a rectangular building and, until 2012, it Prins Hendrikkade 108. Map 2 E4.
ground plan with the Holy housed a branch of the v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17. q Centraal
Ark in the southeast corner Amsterdam Public Library. Station. Open Sun. 8 call 020-
facing towards Jerusalem, and 6868595 to book ∑ hetschip.nl
the tebah (the podium from
which the service is led) at u Montelbaanstoren Built as an office complex in
the opposite end. Oude Waal/Oudeschans 2. 1916, the Scheepvaarthuis
The wooden, barrel-vaulted Map 5 B1. v 9, 14. q Nieuwmarkt. (shipping house) is regarded
ceiling is supported by four Closed to the public. as the first true example of
Ionic columns. The interior Amsterdam School architecture
of the synagogue, with its The lower portion of the (see pp146–7). It was designed by
pews made of mahogany, is Montelbaanstoren was built Piet Kramer (1881–1961), Johan
illuminated by more than 1,000 in 1512 and formed part of van der May (1878–1949) and
candles and 72 windows. Amsterdam’s medieval fortifi- Michel de Klerk (1884–1923) for
cations. It lay just beyond the city a group of shipping companies
wall, protecting the city’s wharves which no longer wanted to
on the newly built St Antoniesdijk conduct business on the quay.
(now the Oudeschans) from the The imposing triangular
neighbouring Gelderlanders. building has a prow-like front
The octagonal structure and and is crowned by a statue
open-work timber steeple were of Neptune, his wife and four
both added by Hendrick de female figures representing
Keyser in 1606. His decorative
addition bears a close resem-
blance to the spire of the Oude
Kerk, designed by Joost Bilhamer,
which was built 40 years earlier
(see pp84–5). In 1611, the tower
began to list, prompting
Amsterdam mers to attach ropes
to the top and pull it right again.
Italianate façade of the Pintohuis, now Sailors from the Dutch East
a centre for culture and literature India Company would gather
at the Montelbaanstoren before
y Pintohuis being ferried in small boats
down the IJ to the massive
Sint Antoniesbreestraat 69.
Map 2 E5. Tel 020-6243184. v 9, 14. East Indies-bound sailing ships,
q Nieuwmarkt. Open 11:30am– anchored further out in deep
6:30pm Mon–Fri, 1:30–5pm Sat. water to the north.
Closed Sun. The building appears in a num-
ber of etchings by Rembrandt,
Isaac de Pinto, a wealthy and is still a popular subject for
Portuguese merchant, bought artists. It used to house the offices
the Pintohuis in 1651 for the then of the Amsterdam water authority The medieval Montelbaanstoren, with its
enormous sum of 30,000 guilders. but is currently unoccupied. decorative timber steeple
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp396–7 and pp406–9
082-083_EW_Netherlands.indd 82 16/01/17 11:53 am
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Date 25th April 2013
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OUDE ZIJDE 83
the four points of the compass.
No expense was spared on
the construction and internal
decoration of the building, and
local dock workers came to
regard the building as a symbol
of capitalism. The doors, stairs,
window frames and interior
walls are festooned with nautical
images, such as sea horses,
dolphins and anchors. Beautiful
stained-glass skylights are also
decorated with images of sailing
ships, maps and compasses.
The Scheepvaarthuis is now
a luxury hotel, the Grand Hôtel
Amrâth, which offers guided
tours for groups.
o Schreierstoren
Prins Hendrikkade 94–95. Map 2 E4.
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 11, 13, 16, 17. q Centraal
Station. Closed to the public.
The Schreierstoren (weepers’
tower) was a defensive structure
forming part of the medieval
city walls, dating from 1480. It
was one of the few fortifications
not to be demolished as the The Schreierstoren, part of the original city fortifications
city expanded beyond its
me dieval boundaries in the p Zeedijk the edge of the city’s Red Light
17th century. The distinctive Map 2 E4. v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17. District, and in the 1960s and
building now houses a q Nieuwmarkt, Centraal Station. 1970s it became notorious as
basement café that offers a centre for drug-dealing and
tastings of genuine sailors’ gin. Along with the Nieuwendijk street crime. However, following
Popular legend states that the and the Haarlemmerdijk, the an extensive clean-up campaign
tower derived its name from the Zeedijk (sea dyke) formed in the 1980s, the Zeedijk is
weeping (schreien in the original part of Amsterdam’s original much improved. Architect Fred
Dutch) of women who came fortifications. Built in the early Greves has built a Chinese
here to wave their men off to 1300s, some 30 years after Buddhist temple, Fo Kuang Shan.
sea. It is more likely, however, Amsterdam had been granted Plaques on the gables of
that the title has a less romantic its city charter, these defences some of the street’s cafés reveal
origin and comes from the took the form of a canal moat their former use – the red boot
tower’s position on a sharp with piled-earth ramparts at No. 17 indicates that it was
(screye or scherpe), 90-degree reinforced by wooden palisades. once a cobbler’s.
bend in the old town walls. The As the city grew in prosperity
earliest of four wall plaques, and its boundaries expanded,
dated 1569, adds considerably canals were filled in and the
to the confusion by depicting a dykes became obsolete. The
weeping woman alongside the paths that ran alongside them
inscription scrayer hovck, which became the streets and alleys
means “sharp corner”. which bear their names today.
In 1609, Henry Hudson set One of the two remaining
sail from here in an attempt wooden-fronted houses in the
to discover a new and faster city is at No. 1. It was built in the
trading route to the East Indies. mid-1500s as a hostel for sailors
Instead, he unintentionally and is much restored. Opposite
“discovered” the river in North is St Olofskapel, built in 1445 and
America, which still bears his named after the first Christian
name. A bronze plaque, laid king of Norway and Denmark.
in 1927, commemorates By the 1600s, the Zeedijk had The Zeedijk, today a lively street with
Hudson’s voyage. become a slum. The area is on plenty of restaurants, bars and small shops
082-083_EW_Netherlands.indd 83 16/01/17 11:53 am
84 A MSTERD A M
a Oude Kerk
The origins of the Oude Kerk date from the early 13th century,
when a wooden church was built on a sand bank. The present
Gothic structure is 14th century and has grown from a single-
aisled church into a basilica. As it expanded, the building
became a gathering place for traders and a refuge for the poor.
Paintings and statuary were destroyed after the Alteration in
1578, but the gilded ceiling and stained-glass windows remain.
The Great Organ was added in 1724, and there are two other
fine organs in this lovely church, also home to the tomb of
Rembrandt’s wife, Saskia.
The Oude Kerk Today
The old church,
surrounded by shops,
cafés and houses, remains
a calm and peaceful
haven at the heart of the
frenetic Red Light District.
. Great Organ (1724)
Vater-Müller’s oak-encased organ
has eight bellows and 4,000 pipes.
The 54 pipes of the magnificent
organ front are gilded.
1955–99
1330 Church 1462 First Restoration 1979 Church
consecrated side chapel 1658 Carillon installed of church reopens to public
to St Nicholas demolished
1412 North to build 1552 Lady 1724 Great 1951 2014 Renewal of
transept south Chapel Organ installed Church entrance and exit
completed transept added closes
1300 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000 2100
1500 Side 1578 Calvinists
chapels added triumph in the 1912–14
1340 Church 1566 Spire Alteration Partial 2011–12 Floor
restoration
is restored
enlarged added to Stained-glass of north-
1300 Small stone 13th-century coats of arms in west corner
church built tower Lady Chapel
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp396–7 and pp406–9
084-085_EW_Netherlands.indd 84 16/01/17 11:53 am
OUDE ZIJDE 85
. Gilded Ceiling VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The delicate
15th-century vault Practical Information
paintings have a gilded Oudekerksplein. Map 2 D4.
background. They were Tel 020-6258284.
hidden with layers of ∑ oudekerk.nl
blue paint in 1755 and Church: Open 11am–5pm Mon–
not revealed until 1955. Sat, 1–5pm Sun. 5 11am Sun.
& 7 Tower: Open Apr–Sep:
1–5pm Thu–Sat; Oct–Mar: phone
020-6892565 to arrange a visit.
Transport
v 4, 9, 16.
. Lady Chapel
(1552)
The Death of the
Virgin Mary by Dirk
Crabeth is one of
three restored
stained-glass
windows in the
Lady Chapel.
Brocaded Pillars
Decorative pillars
originally formed niches
holding a series of statues
of the Apostles, all
destroyed by the
iconoclasts in 1578.
KEY
1 Tomb of Admiral Abraham van
der Hulst (1619–66)
2 Christening chapel
3 The spire of the bell tower was
built by Joost Bilhamer in 1565.
François Hemony added the 47-bell
carillon in 1658.
The Red Door 4 Tomb of Saskia, wife of
The inscription on Rembrandt (see p80)
the lintel above the 5 Tomb of Admiral Jacob van
door into the former Heemskerk (1567–1607)
sacristy warns those
about to enter: 6 17th- and 18th-century houses
“Marry in haste, 7 Former sacristy
repent at leisure”.
084-085_EW_Netherlands.indd 85 16/01/17 11:53 am
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Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
A MSTERD A M 87
NIEUWE ZIJDE
The western side of medieval Amsterdam sprang up. The interesting Amsterdam
was known as the Nieuwe Zijde (New Side). Museum, which is now housed in a
Together with the Oude Zijde it formed splendid former orphanage, has scores
the heart of the early maritime settlement. of maps and paintings charting the
Nieuwendijk, today a busy shopping street, growth of the city from these times to the
was originally one of the earliest sea present day. One room is devoted to the
defences. As Amsterdam grew, it expanded Miracle of Amsterdam, which made the
eastwards, leaving large sections of the city a place of pilgrimage, and brought
Nieuwe Zijde, to the west, neglected and commerce to the Nieuwe Zijde. Nearby lies
in decline. With its many wooden houses, Kalverstraat, Amsterdam’s main shopping
the city was prone to fires and in 1452 street, and also the secluded Begijnhof.
much of the area was burned down. This pretty courtyard is mostly fringed by
During rebuilding, a broad moat, the narrow 17th-century houses, but it also
Singel, was cut, along which warehouses, contains the city’s oldest surviving
rich merchants’ homes and fine quays wooden house.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings, Monuments
and Bridges
2 Koninklijk Paleis pp92–3
4 Nationaal Monument D E R U I J T E R K A D E
9 Torensluis
0 Magna Plaza
w Centraal Station
t Beurs van Berlage KATTENGAT STROMARKT Centraal Station
Churches MARTELAARS STATIONS
PLEIN
GRACHT
1 Nieuwe Kerk S i n g e l SINGEL HEKELVELD PRINS HENDRIKKADE Centraal
Station
q Lutherse Kerk
e St Nicolaaskerk OUDE NIEUWSTRAAT
SINT
Museums JACOBSTR NIE U W E N DIJ K D A M R A K SINT OLOFSPOORT
3 Madame Tussauds NIEUWEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL Damrak NIEUWEBRUG
ST
Scenerama
6 Amsterdam Museum SPUISTRAAT N. NIEUWESTR
pp96–7 S I N G E L WARMOESSTRAAT
8 Allard Pierson BEURSSTRAAT
Museum MOLSTEEG N I E U W E N D I J K D A M R A K
r Museum Ons’ Lieve
Heer op Solder EGGERTSTR
Streets and Squares ST. JANSSTR VOORBURGWAL
5 Nes DAM
7 Begijnhof PALEISSTRAAT DAMSTRAAT OUDEZIJDS
N E S
S I N G E L WIJDE VOORBURGWAL PIETERSPOORT ST
S P U I S T R A A T K A L V E R S T R A A T R O K I N N E S
ST
SINT
S i n g e l NIEUWEZIJDS GEDEMPTE BEGIJNENSLOOT GRIMBURGWAL See also Street Finder
KUIPERS
ST
maps 1, 2 & 5
S P U I KA L V E OUDE TURFMARKT
S I N G E L
NIEUWE
STR
DOELENSTR 0 metres 250
R O K I N
HANDBOOG
HEILIGEWEG R S T RAA T 0 yards 250
Visitors at the Amsterdam Museum on Kalverstraat For map symbols see back flap
086-087_EW_Netherlands.indd 87 16/01/17 12:03 pm
88 A MSTERD A M
Street-by-Street: Nieuwe Zijde
Although much of the medieval Nieuwe Zijde has
disappeared, the area is still rich in buildings that relate to
the city’s past. The Dam, dominated by the Koninklijk Paleis
and Nieuwe Kerk, provides examples of architecture from
the 15th to the 20th centuries. Around Kalverstraat, narrow
streets and alleys follow the course of some of the earliest
dykes and footpaths. Here, most of the traditional gabled
houses have been turned into bustling shops and cafés.
The lively Rokin, and nearby Damrak, are destined to
become the “red carpet” entry to the city, once the new
Noord-Zuidlijn metro is completed.
6 . Amsterdam
Museum
Wall plaques and maps Kalverstraat
showing the walled This busy tourist shopping area
medieval city are on took its name from the livestock P A L E I S S T R A A T
display in this converted market which was regularly held
orphanage that dates here during the 15th century.
from the 16th century.
T
A
A
R
T
S
R
E
V
L
A
K
7 . Begijnhof
Two churches and one of the few
remaining wooden houses in the S T . L U C I Ē N S T E E G
city nestle in this secluded, tree-
filled courtyard.
R O K I N
Key S P U I
Recommended route
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp396–7 and pp406–9
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NIEUWE ZIJDE 89
1 . Nieuwe Kerk
The carved and gilded ceiling above the CANAL RING
choir was one of the few sections to survive NIEUWE
the great fire of 1645. ZUIDE
OUIDE
ZIJDE
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2
D A M R A K
DA M St Nicolaas wall
P A L E I S S T R A A T
statue, depicting
Amsterdam’s
patron saint, is
thought to date
from the 15th
century.
T
A
A
R
T
S
R
E
V
L
A
K
4 Nationaal
Monument
Two heraldic stone
lions represent the
N Netherlands on
I
K this imposing
O memorial to
R
the Dutch who
lost their lives
in World War II.
S
E 3 Madame Tussauds Scenerama
N As well as waxworks and animated scenes,
there is a fine view of the city from here.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
5 Nes 2 . Koninklijk Paleis
This street, one Built as the town hall, the
of Amsterdam’s building’s Classical façade
oldest, has been and fine sculptures were
a centre for theatre intended to glorify the city
for over 150 years and its government.
088-089_EW_Netherlands.indd 89 16/01/17 12:03 pm
90 A MSTERD A M
1 Nieuwe Kerk
Dam. Map 1 C4. Tel 020-6386909.
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17.
Open during exhibitions only (phone
to check). Closed 27 Apr. & 7 -
∑ nieuwekerk.nl
Dating from the late 14th
century, Amsterdam’s second
parish church was built as the
population outgrew the Oude
Kerk (see pp84–5). During its
turbulent history, the church
has been destroyed several
times by fire, rebuilt and then
stripped of its finery after
the Alteration. It reached its
present size in the 1650s.
The pulpit, not the altar, is
the focal point of the interior,
reflecting the Protestant belief
that the sermon is central to
worship. Unusually flamboyant
for a Dutch Protestant church,
it was finished in 1664 and took
Albert Vinckenbrink 15 years to
carve. Above the transept
crossing, grimacing gilded
cherubs struggle to support the
corners of the wooden barrel
vault. Magnificent three-tiered Scene after Vermeer, in Madame Tussauds Scenerama
brass candelabra were hung
from the ceilings of the nave and 3 Madame Tussauds Dam commemorates Dutch
transepts during restoration work Scenerama World War II casualties. It was
following the fire of 1645. The unveiled in 1956 and is fronted
colourful arched window in the Gebouw Peek & Cloppenburg, by two lions, heraldic symbols
south transept was designed Dam 20. Map 2 D5. Tel 020-5221010. of the Netherlands. Embedded
v 4, 9, 14, 16. Open 10am–6:30pm
by Otto Mengelberg in 1898. daily (to 8:30pm Jul & Aug). in the wall behind are urns
It depicts Queen Wilhelmina Closed 27 Apr. & = 7 containing earth from all the
surrounded by courtiers at ∑ madametussauds.com Dutch provinces as well as
her coronation. In the apse is from the former Dutch colonies
Rombout Verhulst’s memorial Madame Tussauds offers an of Indonesia, the Antilles
to Admiral De Ruyter (1607–76), audiovisual tour of Amsterdam’s and Suriname.
who died at sea in battle against history, as well as projected
the French. future developments. Some of
the displays, such as the ani- 5 Nes
mated 5-m (16-ft) figure of Map 2 D5. v 4, 9, 14, 16.
“Amsterdam Man”, are bizarre,
but the wax models of 17th- This quiet, narrow street is
century people give an insight home to several theatres
into life in the city’s Golden and good restaurants. In
Age. Current celebrities and 1614, Amsterdam’s first
pop stars also feature among pawnshop opened at Nes
the exhibits. No. 57. A wall plaque marks
the site, and pawned goods
4 Nationaal continue to clutter the shop
window. At night, Nes can
Monument prove to be dangerous for
Stained-glass window at the Nieuwe Kerk Dam. Map 2 D5. v 4, 9, 14, 16. the unguarded visitor.
in Amsterdam
Sculpted by John Raedecker 6 Amsterdam
2 Koninklijk Paleis and designed by architect Museum
JJP Oud, the imposing
See pp92–3. 22-m (70-ft) obelisk in the See pp96–7.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp396–7 and pp406–9
090-091_EW_Netherlands.indd 90 16/01/17 12:03 pm
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NIEUWE ZIJDE 91
7 Begijnhof noise, retains a sanctified century. Directly west
atmosphere. Among the stands the Begijnhof Chapel,
Spui (but public entrance at
Gedempte Begijnensloot). houses that overlook its a clandestine church in
Map 1 C5. v 1, 2, 5, 9, 14, 16. well-kept green is the city’s which the Begijntjes
Open 9am–5pm daily. oldest surviving house at and other Catholics
No. 34. On the adjoining worshipped in secret
The Begijnhof was originally wall there is a fascinating until religious tolerance
built in 1346 as a sanctuary for collection of wall plaques was restored in 1795.
the Begijntjes, a lay Catholic taken from the houses. Stained-glass windows
sisterhood who lived like nuns, In keeping with the and paintings depict
although they took no monastic Begijntjes’ religious scenes of the Miracle
vows. In return for lodgings, outlook, the plaques Plaque on the of Amsterdam. Public
these women undertook to have a biblical theme. Engelse Kerk tours are not allowed.
educate the poor and look after The southern fringe Also, visitors are
the sick. Nothing survives of of the square is dominated requested to be quiet and
the earliest dwellings, but the by the Engelse Kerk (English not visit the Begijnhof in
Begijnhof, cut off from traffic Church), dating from the 15th large groups.
The Begijnhof Chapel, a clandestine No. 19 has a plaque
church (Nos. 29–30), was completed depicting the exodus of
in 1680. It contains many reminders the Jews from Egypt.
of Amsterdam’s Catholic past.
Begijnhof Houses
These are still occupied by
single women.
Biblical plaques cover the
wall behind No. 34.
Spui entrance
Main entrance from
Gedempte
Begijnensloot
Engelse Kerk
Houten House This church was built around
No. 34 is Amsterdam’s oldest house, 1419 for the Begijntjes. It
dating from around 1420. It is one of was confiscated after the
the city’s two wooden-fronted houses; Alteration and rented to a
timber houses were banned in 1521 group of English and Scottish
after a series of catastrophic fires. Most Presbyterians in 1607. The
of the Begijnhof houses were built Pilgrim Fathers may have
after the 16th century. worshipped here.
090-091_EW_Netherlands.indd 91 16/01/17 12:03 pm
92 A MSTERD A M
2 Koninklijk Paleis
Chamber of the
Formerly the town hall, the Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) Commissioners of
is still regularly used by the Dutch royal family on official Courtyard Petty Affairs
occasions. Construction of the sandstone building began
in 1648, at the end of the 80 Years War (see p53). The South
Neo-Classical design of Jacob van Campen (1595–1657) gallery
reflected Amsterdam’s new-found self-confidence after the
victory against the Spanish. When not in use by members
of the Royal House, the Paleis is open to the public.
Sculptures
Chamber of the
Thesaurie Ordinaris
Mayor’s office
. Burgerzaal
The Burgerzaal (citizens’ hall) has Mayor’s
an inlaid marble floor depicting chamber
the two hemispheres (western
and eastern). View of the Dam and
the Vierschaar
Court of Justice
. Sculptures
The palace is decorated with
a large number of sculptures
of mainly allegorical figures.
High Court of Justice
Key to Floorplan (Vierschaar)
Ground floor
First floor
Entrance
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp396–7 and pp406–9
092-093_EW_Netherlands.indd 92 16/01/17 12:03 pm
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NIEUWE ZIJDE 93
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Alderman’s hall
Dam. Map 1 C4.
Tel 020-6204060.
∑ paleisamsterdam.nl
Open Jul & Aug: daily;
Courtyard Sep–May: regularly, check
website for details. & 9 7
8 on request. =
Transport
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14,
16, 17.
The Newly Built Town Hall on the
River Amstel
This painting by Jan van der Heyden
(1637–1712) shows the city hall,
with the Nieuwe Kerk (see p90)
in the background.
North gallery
Insolvency
auction room
Bronze Entrance Gates to
Insurance the Burgerzaal
chamber The approach to these
magnificent gates, up a flight
of stairs from street level, made
the entrance to the Burgerzaal
even more imposing.
. Vroedschapszaal
This hall, the Council
Hall of the city
Institution fathers, has two fine
managing fireplaces with
property of mantelpieces by
orphans Govert Flinck and
Han van Bronckhorst.
The grisailles from
1738 are the work
of Jacob de Wit.
2013 Willem-Alexander
1648 1720 1810 Complete refurbishment of the becomes King of the
Construction Interior palace, with galleries divided up into Netherlands and gives
begins decoration rooms with wood partitions; the rooms a speech from the
under Jacob completed are furnished in Empire style palace balcony with
van Campen Princess Beatrix
1600 1700 1800 1900 2000
1655 1665 2002 Crown Prince
Ceremonial Building 1808 Louis 1960 Thorough restoration Willem-Alexander
Napoleon kisses his bride,
inaugu- completed work throughout the 20th
ration of the converts the town century undoes the building Maxima, on the
building hall into a palace work of Louis Napoleon palace balcony
092-093_EW_Netherlands.indd 93 16/01/17 12:03 pm
94 A MSTERD A M
8 Allard Pierson It is the first Dutch Reformed
Museum church to feature a circular ground
plan and two upper galleries,
Oude Turfmarkt 127. Map 5 A2. giving the whole congre gation
Tel 020-5252556. v 4, 9, 14, 16. a clear view of the pulpit.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, In 1882 a fire destroyed
1–5pm Sat, Sun & public hols. everything but the exterior walls.
Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun, 27 Apr, Allard Pierson Museum’s Neo-Classical façade
Whitsun, 25 Dec. & 7 8 When the interior and entrance
∑ allardpiersonmuseum.nl of Bremer and Bentheimer stone were rebuilt in 1883, they were
made more square and more
Amsterdam’s only specialist 0 Magna Plaza ornate. A vaulted copper dome
archaeological collection is Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182. replaced the earlier ribbed ver-
named after Allard Pierson Map 1 C4. Tel 020-6269199. v 1, sion. Falling attendance led to
(1831–96), a humanist and 2, 5, 13, 14, 17. Open noon–7pm the closure of the church in 1935.
scholar. The collection was Sun, 11am–7pm Mon, 10am–7pm The building is now used by
moved into this handsome Tue–Sat. Closed 27 Apr, 25 Dec, Renaissance Amsterdam Hotel
Neo-Classical building in 1976. 1 Jan. See Shopping: p148. 7 as a business centre. Concerts
The museum contains Cypriot, ∑ magnaplaza.nl are sometimes held here.
Greek, Egyptian, Roman, Etruscan
and Coptic artifacts. A post office building has been
sited here since 1748. The w Centraal Station
present building was completed
9 Torensluis in 1899; CP Peters, the architect, Stationsplein. Map 2 E3. Tel 0900-
9292. v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17.
was ridiculed for the extra- q Centraal Station. Open daily. 7
Singel, between Torensteeg and
Oude Leliestraat. Map 1 C4. vagance of its Neo-Gothic
v 1, 2, 5, 13, 14, 17. design. Redeveloped but well When the Centraal Station
preserved, in 1990 it opened opened in 1889, it replaced the
The Torensluis is one of the as the city’s first shopping mall. old harbour as the symbolic focal
widest bridges in the city. Built point of the city and curtained
on the site of a 17th-century q Ronde Lutherse Amsterdam off from the sea. The
sluice gate, it took its name Neo-Gothic red-brick railway
from a tower that stood here Kerk terminus was designed by PJH
until demolished in 1829. Kattengat 2. Map 2 D3. Tel 020- Cuypers and AL van Gendt. Three
Its outline is marked in the 6212223. v 1, 2, 5, 13, 17. artificial islands were created,
pavement. A lock-up jail was 8,600 wooden piles supporting
built in its foundations. This church, also known as the structure. The twin towers
In summer, café tables on Nieuwe Lutherse Kerk, was and central section have archi-
the bridge offer pleasant views designed by Adriaan Dortsman tectural echoes of a triumphal
down the Singel. (1625–82) and opened in 1671. arch. The façade’s decorations
An outdoor café on the Torensluis bridge overlooking the Singel canal
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp396–7 and pp406–9
094-095_EW_Netherlands.indd 94 16/01/17 12:03 pm
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NIEUWE ZIJDE 95
show allegories of maritime became Protestant, many such
trade, a tribute to the city’s past. hidden churches were built
Although currently undergoing in the city.
renovation to accommodate The lower floors of the
the new Noord-Zuidlijn metro building became a museum
route, the station still handles in 1888 and today contain
250,000 train travellers daily. elegantly refurbished and
decorated rooms, as well as
an impressive collection of
church silver, religious artifacts
and paintings.
Work was completed in
2015 which links the church
to the house opposite, now
functioning as an entrance
Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder, which dates back building and providing much-
to the 17th century needed space for more
exhibitions, a shop and a café.
r Museum Ons’
Lieve Heer op t Beurs van
Solder Berlage
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40. Map 2 E4. Damrak 243. Map 2 D4. Tel (box office)
Tel 020-6246604. v 4, 9, 16. 020-5304141. v 4, 9, 16. Open only
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm during exhibitions. Closed 1 Jan. &
Sun & public hols. Closed 1 Jan, ^ 7 = ∑ beursvanberlage.nl
27 Apr. & 8 =
The clean, functional appearance
Tucked away on the edge of of Hendrik Berlage’s 1903 stock
the Red Light District is a exchange marked a departure
restored 17th-century canal from late 19th-century revivalist
house, with two smaller houses architecture. Many of its design
Splendid Neo-Renaissance façade of to the rear. The combined features were adopted by
the Sint-Nicolaaskerk upper storeys conceal a secret the Amsterdam School. An
Catholic church, known as impressive frieze shows the
e Sint-Nicolaaskerk Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our evolution of man from Adam
Dear Lord in the Attic), built in to stock broker. The building
Prins Hendrikkade 73. Map 2 E4.
Tel 020-6248749. v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 1663. Following the Alteration, now serves as a venue for
13, 16, 17. q Centraal Station. when Amsterdam officially exhibitions, concerts and shows.
Open noon–3pm Mon & Sat,
11am–4pm Tue–Fri. 5 12:30pm
Mon–Sat, 10:30am & 1pm (Spanish)
Sun. ∑ nicolaasparochie.nl
Sint Nicolaas was the patron
saint of seafarers, and so was an
important icon in Am sterdam.
Many Dutch churches are named
after him, and the Netherlands’
principal day for the giving of
presents, 5 December, is known
as Sinterklaasavond (see p39).
Completed in 1887, Sint-
Nicolaaskerk was designed
by AC Bleys (1842–1912). It
replaced some clandestine
Catholic churches set up in
the city when Amsterdam was
officially Protestant.
The exterior is forbidding, its
twin towers dominating the
skyline. The monumental
interior has squared pillars and
coffered ceiling arches. Decorative brickwork on the façade of the Beurs van Berlage
094-095_EW_Netherlands.indd 95 16/01/17 12:03 pm
96 A MSTERD A M
6 Amsterdam Museum
The convent of St Lucien was turned into a civic orphanage two years
after the Alteration of 1578. The original red-brick convent has been
enlarged over the years; new wings were added in the 17th century Lecture
room
by Hendrick de Keyser and Jacob van Campen. The present building is
largely as it was in the 18th century. Since 1975 the complex has housed
the city’s historical museum, charting Amsterdam’s development.
. The Anatomy Lesson of
Dr Jan Deijman (1656)
In this painting, Rembrandt depicts Second floor
the dissection of Black John, a
criminal sentenced to death. Library
Kalverstraat main
entrance (to the
Orphans’ Relief (1581) Begijnhof)
The crooked relief
above the gateway to
Kalverstraat is a copy
of Joost Bilhamer’s
original (on display in Goliath (c.1650)
the main entrance hall). This massive statue is
Its inscription asks people one of a trio of biblical
to contribute to the figures dominating the
upkeep of the orphans. museum’s café.
Museum Guide Key to Floorplan
The permanent exhibits are Civic Guard Gallery
housed around the inner Regents’ Room
courtyards. The main exhib Origins of Amsterdam
ition is Amsterdam DNA,
which provides a fascinating 14th- and 15th-century history
overview into the city’s 16th-century history
history. Signposting allows 17th- and 18th-century history
the visitor to explore a specific 19th-century history
period, such as the exciting Modern age
100 Years in Schipol exhibit,
which details the history of Temporary exhibition space
the city’s largest airport . Non-exhibition space
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp396–7 and pp406–9
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NIEUWE ZIJDE 97
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Kalverstraat 92, NZ Voorburgwal
357, St-Luciënsteeg 27
Map 1 C5.
Tel 020-5231822.
∑ ahm.nl
Open 10am–5pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec.
& 7 8 - 0 =
Transport
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14,
16, 17.
. The Flower Market and Town Hall
Gerrit Berckheijde (1638–98) painted
this scene (1673) showing the site of
Amsterdam’s original flower market on
the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, which was
filled in at the end of the 19th century. In
the background is the Koninklijk Paleis.
First floor Keys to the Town of Amsterdam (1810)
These two silver keys were presented to
Napoleon upon his entry into Amsterdam.
. Civic Guard
Gallery
This painting
(1557) shows
17 soldiers of the
Civic Guard who
belonged to Rot F
(F squad).
Ground floor
17th-century red
Entrance in girls’ brick façade
courtyard
Entrance on
Nieuwezijds
Voorburgwal
St Luciënsteeg Hunting Day (1926)
entrance Johan Braakensiek’s illustration shows
the lively carnival atmosphere
in Zeedijk during the celebrations
for this day, which took place every
Thursday throughout August.
096-097_EW_Netherlands.indd 97 16/01/17 11:53 am
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Size 125mm x 217mm
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and
comprehensive maps for exploring this unique and captivating country.
Explore Amsterdam's canals on a boat trip, cycle around the Kinderdijk to spy vintage windmills, wander
through colourful tulip blossoms at the Keukenhof flower gardens or admire the lavish Paleis Het Loo:
everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of the
Netherlands with this indispensable travel guide.
Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide The Netherlands:
- Over 35 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of the Netherlands, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of icons such as Amsterdam's Gothic Oude Kerk and iconic
Rijksmuseum, the Hague's art-filled Mauritshuis, elegant Paleis Het Loo and more
- Colour photographs of the Netherlands' canal-strewn cities including quirky Amsterdam and medieval
Utrecht, quaint towns, historic sights, colourful tulip fields, iconic windmills, sandy beaches and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the country's maritime
history, unique culture, ubiquitous dams, traditional farmhouses and windmills, world-famous artists,
beautiful pottery and tiles, tulip fields, traditional festivals and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Amsterdam, including Oude Zijde, Nieuwe Zijde, the Canal Ring and the Museum Quarter; North Holland; Utrecht; South Holland; Zeeland; West Frisian Islands; Groningen;
Friesland; Drenthe; Overijssel; Flevoland; Gelderland; North Brabant; Limburg and more
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases, and visa and health information
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide The Netherlands is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the
most from your visit to this charming country.
DK Eyewitness: winner of the Top Guidebook Series in the Wanderlust Reader Travel Awards 2017.
"No other guide whets your appetite quite like this one" - The Independent
On a city break? Try our DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Amsterdam.
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(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - The Netherlands
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