(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - The Netherlands

WHERE T O ST A Y  399

TEXEL: Zeerust €€ GRONINGEN: Asgard €€ KOUDUM: Galamadammen €€
Charming Map B2 Design Map D1 Charming Map C2
Boodtlaan 5, De Koog, 1796 BD Ganzevoortsingel 2–1, 9711 AL Galamadammen 1–4, 8723 CE
Tel (0222) 317 261 Tel (050) 368 4810 Tel (0514) 521 346
∑ hotelzeerust.nl ∑ asgardhotel.nl ∑ galamadammen.nl
This up-to-date, small hotel Minimalist rooms with floor Set beside the marina, this hotel
is ideally located between heating and rain showers are calls for exploring the Frisian
village, woods and beach. Fresh on offer at this revamped 1930s lakes by rental boat.
breakfasts available. deaconess hospital.
LEEUWARDEN: Grand Hotel
TEXEL: Bij Jef €€€ GRONINGEN: Prinsenhof €€ Post Plaza €€
Design Map B2 Historic Map D1 Luxury Map D1
Herenstraat 34, Den Hoorn, 1797 AJ Martinikerkhof 23, 9712 JH Tweebaksmarkt 25–27, 8911 KW
Tel (0222) 319 623 Tel (050) 317 6550 Tel (058) 215 9317
∑ bijjef.nl ∑ prinsenhof-groningen.nl ∑ post-plaza.nl
Set in a former vicarage, this A 15th-century palace makes for Plush accomodation in an 18th-
luxurious B&B comes with five- stunning grandeur in conversion. century former bank building,
star amenities and fine views. Beautiful gardens. Elegant restau- this centrally located hotel has
Michelin-starred restaurant. rant and an equally refined café. modern rooms and a spa.
VLIELAND: WestCord LUTJEGAST: Erfgoed STAVOREN: De Vrouwe van
Residentie Vlierijck €€€ Rikkerda €€ Stavoren €
Luxury Map C1 Charming Map D1 Design Map C2
Willem de Vlaminghweg 2, 8899 AV Abel Tasmanweg 28, 9866 TD Havenweg 1, 8715 EM
Tel (0562) 453 840 Tel (0594) 612 928 Tel (0514) 681 202
∑ residentie-vlierijck-vlieland.nl ∑ rikkerda.nl ∑ hotel-vrouwevanstavoren.nl
Balconied self-catering apartments This stylish B&B features Sleep in a Swiss wine cask –
with a bar, restaurant, pool and spacious accomodation and complete with sitting area, private
sauna are on offer at this smart a charming garden. Stabling bath and twin beds. Quite an
apartment-hotel. Close to the ferry. facilities available. extraordinary accommodation.
WARFHUIZEN: De TERNAARD: Herberg de Waard
Theaterherberg € van Ternaard €€
Groningen Design Map D1 Charming Map D1
Baron van Asbeckweg 42, 9963 PC De Groedse 3, 9145 RG
DEN HAM: Piloersemaborg €€ Tel (0595) 572 742 Tel (0519) 571 846
Historic Map D3 ∑ theaterherberg.nl ∑ herbergdewaard.nl
Sietse Veldstraweg 25, 9833 TA The “Theatre Inn” houses a tiny This inn in an 1860s mansion,
Tel (050) 403 1362 theatre and, in the former now transformed into a boutique
∑ piloersema.nl 19th-century wine barn, four hotel, offers rooms decorated in
Stay in a well-preserved 17th- literary-themed rooms. wood and marble.
century grange that features
five luxurious rooms and a
first-rate restaurant.
Friesland Drenthe
EENRUM: Grand Hotel de
Kromme Raake €€ HARICH: Welgelegen € COEVORDEN: Kasteel
Historic Map D1 Charming Map C2 Coevorden €€
Molenstraat 5, 9967 SL Welgelegen 15, 8571 RG Design Map E2
Tel (0595) 491 600 Tel (0514) 605 050 Het Kasteel 29, 7741 GC
∑ hoteldekrommeraake.nl ∑ hotelwelgelegen.nl Tel (0524) 522 009
This is officially the world’s Inside a 19th-century farmhouse, ∑ kasteelcoevorden.nl
smallest hotel, with only one Welgelegen offers a romantic Right at the town centre, this
room, but that one has hosted bridal suite upstairs. hotel is housed in a beautifully
many celebrities. preserved century-old warehouse.
DK Choice
DK Choice HARLINGEN: Harbour
GRONINGEN: Stee in Stad € Crane €€€
Charming Map D1 Hotels with Character Map C2
Floresstraat 75, 9715 HR Dokkade 5, 8862 NZ
Tel (050) 577 9896 Tel (0517) 414 410
∑ steeinstad.nl ∑ havenkraan.nl
Three homes located in a An old harbour crane has
residential neighbourhood been painstakingly converted
have been lovingly converted into a contemporary hotel
into a characterful B&B, which room: the bed is 17 m (56 ft)
serves as a work project for above ground and the crane
disadvantaged people. All nine revolves 360 degrees for
rooms (singles and doubles) a constantly changing,
have been individually deco- panoramic view of Friesland
rated based on themes. and the Wadden Sea. Grand entrance to the Prinsenhof hotel
in Groningen
For more information on types of hotels see page 391


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400  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

DE SCHIPHORST: Château De
Havixhorst €€€ Flevoland
Luxury Map D3
De Schiphorsterweg 34–36, 7966 AC EMMELOORD: Hotel
Tel (0522) 441 487 Emmeloord €
∑ dehavixhorst.nl Business Map D2
Stay in lavish suites in a romantic Het Hooiveld 9, 8302 AE
17th-century manor house on Tel (0527) 612 345
an estate with Baroque gardens. ∑ hotelemmeloord.nl
This great-value hotel is located
NORG: De Eshof € beside a marina, 20 minutes from
Charming Map D2 the national park.
Esweg 25, 9331 AP
Tel 06 2169 0092 LELYSTAD: Waterlodge de
∑ eshofnorg.nl Aalscholver €
Three rooms, a sauna and a pool Design Map C3
are on offer at this B&B in a con- Beautifully decorated guest room at Modez Riksweg A6, Parkeerplaats “de
verted 18th-century Saxon farm. in Arnhem Aalschover”, 8218 PW
Tel (036) 523 9273
€€
DK Choice HOLTEN: Hoog Holten Map D3 ∑ haje.nu
Accommodation at this offbeat
Charming
VEENHUIZEN: Bitter & Zoet €€ Forthaarsweg 7, 7451 JS roadside restaurant is in rooms in
Historic Map D2 Tel (0548) 361 306 a floating “hotel ark” on the water.
Hospitaallaan 16, 9341 AH ∑ hoogholten.nl
Tel (0592) 385 002 Wonderful hideaway in a former LELYSTAD: De Groene
∑ bitterenzoetveenhuizen.nl hunting lodge, Hoog Holten Watertuinen €€€
“Dedication”, “Obligation” and features well-furnished rooms, Luxury Map C3
“Bitter & Sweet” – the three build- a pleasant terrace, wine bar and Groene Velden 154, 8211 BD
ings of a monumental 19th- a restaurant. Tel (0320) 263 310
century hospital complex now ∑ groenewatertuinen.nl
make for a boutique hotel with LATTROP: Landgoed de Set in a leafy suburb, this hotel
stylish rooms and apartments, Holtweijde €€ features two suites, plus a pool,
a sauna, restaurant and bakery. Luxury Map E3 jacuzzi and sauna.
Spiekweg 7, 7635 LP
Tel (0541) 229 234 DK Choice
ZEEGSE: De Zeegser Duinen €€ ∑ holtweijde.nl
Charming Map D2 The tranquil setting adds to the URK: Pension het Anker Wijk €
Schipborgerweg 8, 9483 TL charm of this five-star resort. There Charming Map C3
Tel (0592) 530 099 are suites and private cottages, as 4–13/Prins Hendrikstraat 13,
∑ hoteldezeegserduinen.nl well as a spa, tennis courts and 8321 GC
This four-star hotel is set in a driving range. Tel (0527) 685 307
wooded nature reserve. Check in, ∑ overnachteninurk.nl
go cycling and return to unwind. TUBBERGEN: Droste’s € One of Urk’s best B&Bs, this snug,
Design Map E3 little place is housed in a former
Uelserweg 95, 7651 KV fisherman’s cottage in the older
Tel (0546) 621 264 part of the village. It’s here that
Overijssel ∑ drostes.nl guests can get an experience
A cosy, contemporary inn with of how the fishing village
BLOKZIJL: Kaatjes Résidence €€€ a restaurant, Droste’s is set amid traditionally looked.
Design Map D2 rolling meadows. Rooms are
Brouwerstraat 20, 8356 DV comfortable; some feature a
Tel (0527) 291 833 balcony or terrace.
∑ kaatje.nl
Located on a pretty square, this ZWOLLE: Hampshire Gelderland
luxurious B&B has modern rooms Hotel Lumen €€
and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Design Map D3 ARNHEM: Modez €€
Stadionplein 20, 8025 CP Design Map D4
DK Choice Tel (088) 147 1471 Elly Lamakerplantsoen 4, 6822 BZ
∑ hotellumen.nl
Tel (026) 442 0993
HENGELO: Tuindorphotel ‘t Four-star hotel with an odd ∑ hotelmodez.nl
Lansink €€ soccer stadium location, but This striking hotel is decorated by
Hotels with Character Map E3 super stylish lobby, lounge 30 designers under the guidance
C T Storkstraat 18, 7553 AR and restaurant. of fashion illustrator Piet Paris.
Tel (074) 291 0066
∑ hotellansink.com ZWOLLE: De Koperen Hoogte €€ BRUMMEN: Het Oude
Built a century ago as part of a Design Map D3 Postkantoor €€
garden village for Stork factory Lichtmisweg 51, 8035 PL Charming Map D4
workers, this small-scale grand Tel (0529) 428 428 Zutphensestraat 6, 6971 EM
hotel once hosted famous (and ∑ dekoperenhoogte.nl Tel (0575) 566 781
royal) guests. Today, it has heaps Rooms are kitschy, but luxurious ∑ hetoudepostkantoor.nl
of character, a fine-dining restau- at this hotel housed in a former The village post office has been
rant and contemporary rooms. water tower. There’s a revolving converted into a small hotel with
restaurant offering great views. authentic details.
Key to Price Guide see page 396
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WHERE T O ST A Y  401

DOETINCHEM: Villa Ruimzicht €€ KAATSHEUVEL: Efteling Hotel €€€ between four characterful rooms
Charming Map D4 Design Map D5 and two spacious suites. There’s
Ruimzichtlaan 150, 7001 KG Horst 31, 5171 RA also a parlour and a terrace.
Tel (0314) 320 680 Tel (0416) 537 777
∑ hotelvillaruimzicht.nl ∑ efteling.com
Adventurous cooking, designer Four-star hotel in a cloud castle
furniture and art come together near a well-known amusement Limburg
at this 19th-century manor. park. Fairytale-themed rooms.
KERKRADE: Abdij Rolduc €
HARDERWIJK: Harderwijk DK Choice Historic Map D6
op de Veluwe €€ Heyendallaan 82, 6464 EP
Luxury Map C3 NIEUWENDIJK: Fort Tel (045) 546 6888
Leuvenumseweg 7, 3847 LA Bakkerskil € ∑ rolduc.com
Tel (0341) 801 010 Historic Map C4 A 900-year-old abbey that now
∑ hotelharderwijk.com Kildijk 143, 4255 TH houses a conference centre,
All smartly furnished rooms have Tel 06 4593 4892 restau rant and hotel.
Jacuzzis and rain showers at this ∑ bakkerskil.nl
four-star hotel. Part of the 19th-century New MAASTRICHT: Zenden €
Dutch Water Line, this sturdy Design Map C6
NIJMEGEN: Manna €€ fort has now been converted Sint Bernardusstraat 5, 6211 HK
Design Map D4 into a B&B: choose between Tel (043) 321 2211
Oranjesingel 2C, 6511 NS a bed in the sickbay, powder ∑ zenden.nl
Tel (024) 365 0990 magazine or explosives storage. Minimalist rooms with Auping
∑ manna-nijmegen.nl beds, Vitra furniture, Alessi baths.
Individually decorated suites and
studios are on offer at this stylish OISTERWIJK: Stille Wilde € MAASTRICHT:
boutique hotel. Family-friendly Map C5 Kruisherenhotel €€€
Scheibaan 11, 5062 TM Luxury Map C6
OTTERLO: Sterrenberg €€ Tel (013) 528 2301 Kruisherengang 19–23, 6211 NW
Design Map D4 ∑ stillewilde.nl Tel (043) 329 2020
Houtkampweg 1, 6731 AV Comfortable rooms with terrace ∑ chateauhotels.nl
Tel (0318) 591 228 or balcony are on offer here. Design hotel with individually
∑ sterrenberg.nl Ample recreational opportunities. decorated rooms.
This wonderful hideaway is close
to the Hoge Veluwe national park. OSSENDRECHT: De Volksabdij € DK Choice
Great restaurant, indoor pool, spa. Historic Map B5
Onze Lieve Vrouwe ter Duinenlaan ROERMOND: Het
DK Choice 199, 4641 RM Arresthuis €€
Hotels with Character Map D5
Tel (0164) 672 546
TEUGE: Airplane Suite €€€ ∑ devolksabdij.nl Pollartstraat 7, 6041 GC
Hotels with Character Map D3 The well-appointed rooms of this Tel (0475) 870 870
De Zanden 61B, 7395 PA heritage hotel occupy a former ∑ hetarresthuis.nl
Tel 06 1938 8603 monastery, set in a nature reserve. The cells of this 19th-century
∑ vliegtuighotel.nl prison have been converted
An Ilyushin 18 aircraft that flew ‘S-HERTOGENBOSCH: into “comfort cachots”. The
Communist Party moguls in the Stadshotel Jeroen €€ warden’s office is now a luxury
1960s has been converted into Charming Map C4 suite, the yard has become a
a suite for two with an Auping Jeroen Boschplein 6, 5211 ML patio, and instead of roll calls,
bed, pantry, sauna and jacuzzi. Tel (073) 610 3556 there are six-course dinners.
The cockpit is still fully equipped. ∑ stadshoteljeroenbosch.nl
This stylish hotel is named after
painter Hieronymus Bosch. Choose SITTARD: Merici €€
Historic Map D6
Oude Markt 25, 6131 EN
North Brabant Tel (046) 400 9002
∑ hotelmerici.nl
BREDA: Bliss €€€ Merici is a charming four-star
Design Map B5 hotel set inside a 19th-century
Torenstraat 9–11, 4811 XV Ursuline boarding school.
Tel (076) 533 5980
∑ blisshotel.nl VALKENBURG AAN DE GEUL:
Nine themed suites come with Dieteren €€
Jacuzzis, fireplaces, workstations Charming Map D6
or terraces. Neerhem 34, 6301 CH
Tel (043) 601 5404
GELDROP: Nijver € ∑ hoteldieterenvalkenburg.nl
Design Map D5 Located beside the cable car
Heuvel 1A, 5664 HJ in a picture-perfect town,
Tel (040) 286 7000 Dieteren offers comfortable
∑ hotelnijver.nl rooms with balcony or
Nijver is a boutique hotel that pays terrace. There’s also a pool
tribute to the textile industry with Airplane Suite, Teuge, set in a disused and a garden.
its nine stylishly decorated suites. Ilyushin 18 aircraft
For more information on types of hotels see page 391
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402  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

The Dutch are innovative people, and this or bar, where diners can order meals
quality is reflected in their cooking. Old from a limited menu, featuring at least
colonial ties have long influenced Dutch one inexpensive, daily-changing set
cuisine and its restaurant scene, so Surinamese menu (dagmenu).
and especially Indonesian restaurants are Although many Dutch have forgotten,
aplenty. More recently, as the Dutch have been there is such a thing as “traditional Dutch
introduced to the cooking skills of immigrants cooking”, which is now being rediscovered.
into the area, Turkish snack bars and Moroccan A growing number of chefs are serving
restaurants are popping up. new takes on traditional Dutch fare, involving
The Dutch restaurant scene leans heavily meat or fish, potatoes and more elaborate
on international influences. Especially in the sauces. Eating out has long been considered
bigger cities, visitors can choose between something people hastily do in between
exotic flavours from countries as diverse as appointments or before going to the
Spain, Greece, Israel, Lebanon, Sweden, theatre, but the Dutch are now taking it
Ethiopia, India, Thailand, Vietnam and Japan. more seriously and the number of Michelin-
A popular Dutch phenomenon is the eetcafé, starred restaurants is on the rise.
such as fennel or asparagus. lunchtime and cheap, often very
This means that you can eat decent, meals in the evenings,
wild duck on endive stamppot usually at much lower prices than
(mashed potato and cabbage), those in traditional restaurants.
a combination unheard of
in France. It is in areas such Vegetarian Restaurants
as these that Dutch chefs are
showing increasing inventiveness. Most restaurants have several
vegetarian dishes on their
menus. This applies both to
Eetcafés Dutch/French restaurants and
Eetcafés (eating cafés) are a to ethnic restaurants. There is
popular phenomenon in the also an increasing number of
Eating out is an increasingly popular Netherlands. The term eetcafés restaurants that cater exclusively
pastime in the Netherlands is most commonly appIied to to vegetarian diners.
traditional brown cafés. Initially,
Types of Restaurant some cafés and bars sold snacks
The Netherlands boasts a wide to go with their drinks, such as Opening Hours
variety of restaurants. Amsterdam an appetizer, a sandwich or a The Netherlands does not have
is one of the best places in Europe meatball. These snacks have since a tradition of lunching, but this
to try the diverse flavours of been refined to a growing extent. is gradually changing, with
Indonesia, and Chinese restaurants Bars and cafés have gradually more restaurants now opening
and pizzerias have also spread evolved into eetcafés where diners at lunchtime, usually from noon
far and wide across the country. can enjoy sandwiches at to 2pm. In the evenings, the
Indeed it is difficult to find a
country whose cuisine is not
represented by some restaurant
in the Netherlands. There is also
an infinite variety in the range
of dishes, ingredients, presen­
tation and price.
Traditional Dutch cooking is
best described as simple and
straightforward. As a maritime
nation, the Netherlands does
have many fish restaurants,
particularly along the coast.
A large number of restaurants
serve French cuisine, and their
quality is consistently improving.
Chefs frequently add local
ingredients to French recipes, An eetcafé, one of the many in Holland serving increasingly refined meals




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  403

Travellers with
Disabilities
Many restaurants are accessible
for wheelchairs, but even if they
are, toilet facilities may still pose
a problem, as they are often
reached via stairs and therefore
not easily accessible.

Drinks
All but the most informal
restaurants will have a wine list
offering a range of fine wines
to accompany your meal.
Vibrant interiors at Eetbar Dit (see p415) in ‘s-Hertogenbosch Although French wines are still
the staple, New World wines
majority of restaurants open Etiquette have become increasingly
at 6pm and the kitchens usually The atmosphere at many Dutch popular. Upmarket restaurants
close around 10pm. An increasing restaurants is fairly informal, and will have a sommelier to help
number of restaurants stay open you can generally wear what you with your choice, and many
all day, serving breakfast, lunch you like; smart casual dress is offer a wine package, serving a
and dinner and light meals or suitable almost everywhere. In glass of carefully paired wine
snacks in between. upmarket restaurants, however, with your meal.
In the cities, night restaurants dressing smartly is appropriate. Typically Dutch brown cafés
are on the rise, with kitchens Smoking is banned in all are making way for airy grand
staying open until midnight restaurants. It is considered cafés and sleek cocktail bars,
or later, allowing you to round impolite to use your mobile offering a long list of exotic
off a visit to the theatre or phone while at the table. aperitifs. However, for most
movies with a late dinner. Dutch, beer is still the tipple of
Traditionally, many restaurants choice, with Heineken or any
do not open on Mondays, though Prices other Dutch lager on tap
this is also changing. Restaurants are legally obliged everywhere.
to display their menu outside,
with prices, inclusive of VAT
Reservations Recommended
Restaurants
Anybody wishing to eat in
one of the country’s more The restaurants listed on pages
renowned restaurants would 406–415 have been selected not
do well to book, and sometimes only for the quality of food served,
booking a few days in advance but also on the basis of value for
– or weeks for the most money, atmosphere, location
acclaimed restaurants – is and service. Obviously, some
advisable. Eetcafés and other restaurants are better than
informal eateries can get crowded others and a few stand out for
in the evenings, but reservations a particular reason, such as
are usually accepted only for their innovative chef, pleasant
large groups, if at all. A snack bar, ideal for a quick but satisfying waterside terrace or romantic
bite to eat atmosphere. For each region
we have have handpicked
Tipping (“BTW”) and service. Prices can one such exceptional restaurant,
It is customary to leave a vary markedly, and a restaurant ranging from a year­round
tip of roughly 10 per cent by can be found in each price class: beach club at the quiet end of
rounding up the amount. If you can find many establish­ Zandvoort beach, via a tiny Italian
you pay by credit card, you can ments where you can eat for trattoria dishing out fantastic king
either add the tip to the bill less than €25; in top restaurants, crab cannelloni, to a Michelin­
or leave change on the table. however, you should not be starred restaurant in a fairytale
Leaving no tip at all is usually surprised if your bill exceeds castle, with a terrace that seems
done only when you are €70, excluding wine. The cost to float in the moat. Here you
particularly dissatisfied with of drinks is invariably extra will not only be guaranteed a
the service provided. At and the mark­up levied by a decent meal, but also gain a
very informal places, such restaurant, especially on house memorable experience. Our
as takeaways or snack bars, wine and table water, can highly recommended restaurants
tipping is not expected. be high. are marked as “DK Choice”.




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404  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


The Flavours of the Netherlands

The typical Dutch menu offers good, solid fare. Pork, hams
and all kinds of sausages are popular, while the North Sea
provides plenty of fresh fish, especially cod, herring and
mackerel, as well as its own variety of tiny brown shrimps.
Leafy green vegetables, such as cabbage, endive (chicory)
and curly kale make regular appearances, frequently mashed
with the ubiquitous potato. Sauerkraut arrived from Germany
long ago and is now considered a native dish. The world-
famous Gouda and Edam cheeses are sold at various stages of Edam cheese
maturity, and with flavourings such as cloves, cumin or herbs.

people from former colonies to offering a sometimes
settle. Dutch chefs branched bewildering variety of choice
out and tried new flavours, and good value for money.
and as such, “fusion” food has
long been a feature of
Amsterdam’s menus. From its The Melting Pot
street-corner fish-stalls to its Amsterdam has long had a
cafés and top-flight gourmet reputation for religious and
restaurants, eating out in political tolerance. Refugees who
Amsterdam can be full of found a safe haven there brought
surprises. Over 50 national along their own styles of cooking.
cuisines are represented, In the 16th century, Jews fleeing
Bami goreng (fried
Sampling pickled herring at one of Fried tofu with noodles with chicken Steamed rice Prawn
Amsterdam’s many fish-stalls sambal oelek and pork) crackers
Amsterdam’s Culinary (chilli sauce)
Influences
Traditional Dutch cuisine may
be simple, wholesome and
hearty, but the variety of food
on offer in Amsterdam is huge
and influenced by culinary
styles from across the globe.
The Netherlands was once a
major colonial power and its Gado gado
trading ships brought back Satay ayam (vegetable salad
exotic ingredients, ideas and Selection of typical rijsttafel dishes (chicken satay) with peanut sauce)
Local Dishes and Specialities
Dining out in the Netherlands is almost
guaranteed to come up with some curious
quirks. Cheese, ham and bread are
standards at breakfast, but you may
also find ontbijtkoek (gingerbread) and
hagelslag (grains of chocolate) to sprinkle
over bread. Ham and cheese are also
lunchtime staples, often served in a
Brown shrimp bread roll with a glass of milk, though
more adventurous sandwiches and salads
are also common nowadays. In Amsterdam, pancake houses provide
both sweet and savoury snacks throughout the day. The evening
is the time when Amsterdam’s eateries have the most to offer. The Erwtensoep is a thick pea and
soups and mashed vegetables of Dutch farmhouse cooking sit smoked sausage soup, which is
alongside spicy Indonesian delights, as well as innovative cuisine often served with rye bread and
from some of Amsterdam’s fine chefs. slices of bacon.






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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  405


Indonesian Legacy
The Dutch began colonizing
Indonesia in the 17th century
and ruled the southeast
Asian archipelago right up
until 1949. Indonesian cuisine
has had a marked influence
on eating habits in the
Netherlands. Ingredients
once regarded as exotic have
crept into Dutch dishes. It is
now commonplace to spice
up apple pies and biscuits
with cinnamon, which is
sometimes even used to
flavour vegetables. Coconut
Baskets of wild mushrooms at an organic market and chillis are very popular
flavourings, too, and sampling
persecution in Portugal and city’s favourite late-night snacks. a rijsttafel (see below) is
Antwerp were some of the first Ethiopians, Greeks, Thais, Italians considered one of the
foreigners to make their home in and Japanese are among other highlights of any trip to
the city. Today, Amsterdammers waves of immigrants to make the country.
count as their own such Jewish their culinary mark, and most
specialities as pekelvlees (salt beef), recently traditional British fare THE RIJSTTAFEL
pickled vegetables (often served has become popular.
as salad) and a variety of sticky Dutch colonialists in Indonesia
cakes, now found mostly in the often found that the modest
more old-fashioned tea-rooms. local portions failed to satisfy
The 20th century saw an their hunger. To match their
larger appetites, they created the
influx of immigrants from rijsttafel (literally “rice-table”). It
Turkey and several North consists of around 20 small spicy
African countries. Large Arab dishes, served up with a shared
and Turkish communities bowl of rice or noodles. Pork or
have become established chicken satay (mini kebabs with
in Amsterdam. As a result, peanut sauce) and kroepoek
restaurants with menus that (prawn crackers) usually arrive
feature Middle-Eastern style first. A selection of curried meat
stuffed vegetables, succulent and vegetable dishes follows,
stews and couscous, are almost with perhaps a plate of fried tofu
everywhere. Falafel (fried and various salads, all more or
chickpea balls) are readily less served together. A sweet
available from road-side take- Gouda on offer in an Amsterdam treat, such as bananas fried in
aways and are now one of the cheese shop batter, rounds it all off.















Shrimp croquettes are shrimps Stamppot is a hearty dish of curly Nasi goreng, an Indonesian-style dish
in a creamy sauce, coated in kale or endive (chicory) and crispy of egg-fried rice with pork and mush-
breadcrumbs and deep-fried. bacon mixed with mashed potato. rooms, is also popular for a rijsttafel.






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406  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

yassa at this Pan-African restaurant Price Guide
Amsterdam serving specialities from across Prices are based on a three-course meal
Oude Zijde the continent. Warm decor, with per person, with a half-bottle of house
wine, including tax and service.
African artwork. No credit cards.
De Bakkerswinkel € € up to €35
Bakery Map 2 D4 Blauw aan de Wal €€€ €€ €35 to €50
Warmoesstraat 69, 1012 HX Fusion Map 5 A1 €€€ over €50
Tel (020) 489 8000 Oudezijds Achterburgwal 99, 1012 DD
Try traditional English scones Tel (020) 330 2257 Closed Sun cuisine. The extensive menu
with cream (not clotted, sadly) Set in an ancient warehouse, this makes it a great place for quick,
or lemon curd. Serves breakfast, place features rustic decor, brick delicious food. There is an attached
lunch and has a high tea menu. walls and wooden beams. It snackbar. Well worth a visit.
serves modern Mediterranean
Café de Engelbewaarder € delights, with a menu that Tibet €€
Brown Café Map 5 1A changes every week. Outstanding Tibetan/Chinese Map 2 E4
Kloveniersburgwal 59, 1011 JZ wine list. Reservations essential. Lange Niezel 24, 1012 GT
Tel (020) 625 3772 Tel (020) 624 1137
The daily-changing menu at this Choose from a variety of Chinese
laid-back, traditional Dutch pub Nieuwe Zijde Szechuan dishes, as well as staple
is mostly European and seasonal. Catala € Tibetan fare. Asian lunch (rice,
Vegetarian options are also Spanish Map 1 C5 noodle dishes) is also served
available. Live jazz on Sundays. Spuistraat 299, 1012 VS here. Eclectic Tibetan decor and
Tel (020) 623 1141 relaxed service.
Éenvistwéévis €€ Sample authentic Catalonian
Seafood Map 5 C1 tapas in the warm rustic interior DK Choice
Schippersgracht 6, 1011 TR of this restaurant. Popular fish
Tel (020) 623 2894 Closed Sun & dishes include rice with shellfish, Visrestaurant Lucius €€
Mon grilled swordfish and monkfish. Or, Seafood Map 1 C5
A paradise for fish lovers, the try the famous Pata Negra jamon. Spuistraat 247, 1012 VP
menu here depends on the daily Tel (020) 624 1831
catch and seasons. Organic, Getto Food & Drinks € Named after the Northern pike
sustainable ingredients. Intimate Café/Bar Map 2 E4 (Esox lucius), this restaurant
decor. No credit cards. Warmoesstraat 51, 1012HW offers delicate, delicious seafood.
Tel (020) 421 5151 Closed Mon Dishes are cooked simply, so
DK Choice This gay-friendly bar-restaurant, the fresh taste shines through.
Try the “plateau fruits de mer”
offers home-style cooking.
Greetje €€ Burgers are a speciality here, (large selection of lobster, crab,
Traditional Map 5 C1 and are named after famous etc) or the North Sea sole. Very
Peperstraat 23, 1011 TJ Amsterdam drag queens, like the popular among the locals;
Tel (020) 779 7450 “Jennifer Hopelezz”. French bistro decor.
Greetje is hailed by the New
York Times as the place the Kam Yin €
Dutch go to eat Dutch. It simply International Map 2 E4 ANNA €€€
doesn’t get more authentic Warmoesstraat 6, 1012 JD European Map 2 D4
than this. Try the bloedworst Tel (020) 625 3115 Warmoesstraat 11, 1012 JA
(blood sausage) with apple An Amsterdam institution, Kam Tel (020) 428 1111 Closed Sun
compote or the roasted lamb Yin serves Chinese and Surinamese This upmarket restaurant is housed
chops. The menu changes in two renovated buildings. Serves
every two months. The old- European cuisine with a twist –
fashioned interior has lots of including dishes like pan-fried
wood and traditional accents. corvine fillet and braised quail.
D’Vijff Vlieghen €€€
In de Waag €€ Traditional Map 1 C5
Fusion Map 5 B1 Spuistraat 294–302, 1012 VX
Nieuwmarkt 4, 1012 CR Tel (020) 530 4060
Tel (020) 422 7772 Dine surrounded by original
This restaurant is located in a 1488 Rembrandt etchings and 17th-
guildhouse, on the top floor of century furnishings. Try lightly
which Rembrandt once took smoked duck breast, or the
anatomy lessons. Informal interior “surprising” chef’s menu.
lit by 300 candles. Eclectic menu,
divine desserts. Book ahead.
Central Canal Ring
Kilimanjaro €€ Goodies €
African Map 5 C1 Mediterranean Map 4 E1
Rapenburgerplein 6, 1011 VB Huidenstraat 9, 1016 ER
Tel (020) 622 3485 Closed Mon Tel (020) 625 6122
Sample West-African antelope Elegant, bistro-style decor at Visrestaurant An informal diner, Goodies serves
stew or Senegalese crocodile Lucius, Amsterdam great food made from organic
406-415_EW_Netherlands.indd 406 18/01/2017 10:21

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  407

ingredients. Try bruschettas or
the meal-sized salads. The menu
also includes tapas-style dishes
and delectable home-made cakes.
Pancakes! €
Bakery Map 1 B5
38 Berenstraat, 1016 GH
Tel (020) 528 9797
Dutch and international pancakes
are served in grand style. The
flour is specially milled from the
Dutch grain mill, de Korenmolen.
Sustainably sourced ingredients.
Balthazar’s Keuken €€
International Map 1 B5
Elandsgracht 108, 1016 VA A beautifully laid table at Balthazar’s Keuken, Amsterdam
Tel (020) 420 2114 Closed Sun–Tue
An open kitchen gives the feeling Eastern Canal Ring De Waaghals €€
of dining at someone’s home. Try Kingfisher € Vegetarian Map 4 F3
the weekly changing three-course International Map 4 F4 Frans Halsstraat 29, 1072 BK
menu with up to five appetizers Ferdinand Bolstraat 24, 1072 LK Tel (020) 679 9609
and pre-chosen wine. Tel (020) 671 2395 Beautifully prepared creative
Good food, ranging from snacks cuisine featuring organic produce
Portugália €€ (shrimp croquettes) to lunch attracts diners here. The menu
Portuguese Map 4 E1 (Ploughman’s sandwich or grilled changes twice a month and
Kerkstraat 35, 1017 GB pork belly) to a day menu (fish, always features one international
Tel (020) 625 6490 meat or vegetarian) is on offer special of the month.
This family-run restaurant serves here. Free Wi-Fi. Excellent value.
simple cuisine with an emphasis Sluizer €€€
on fish and meat. Try the single- Buffet van Odette €€ International Map 5 A3
pan dishes (Cataplana), like the Brasserie Map 4 F2 Utrechtsestraat 41–45, 1017 VH
monkfish, clams, shrimp and Prinsengracht 598, 1017 KS Tel (020) 622 6376
potatoes in a cream sauce. Tel (020) 423 6034 Closed Tue Two restaurants operate under
Light and sunny with a great one roof: Specialties and Fish.
Salmuera €€ terrace, this place serves breakfast, Extensive à la carte and changing
International Map 1 A5 lunch and dinner. Ingre dients are choice menus, with international
Rozengracht 106, 1016 NH mostly organic and locally sourced. meat, fish and vegetarian options.
Tel (020) 624 5752 Popular choices: the truffle cheese
Taste Latin-inspired international omelette and steak sandwich.
dishes at this popular restaurant. Museum Quarter
Try the classic ceviche or feast John Dory €€ Het Blauwe Theehuis €
on the streetfood platter. Seafood Map 5 A3 Fusion Map 3 C3
Prinsengracht 999, 1017 KM Vondelpark 5, 1071 AA
Struisvogel €€ Tel (020) 622 9044 Closed Sun & Mon Tel (020) 662 0254 Closed winter
International Map 1 B5 Housed in a restored warehouse Housed in a 1937 circular building
Keizersgracht 312, 1016 EX dating back to 1860, this comfort- with a huge terrace, the “Blue
Tel (020) 423 3817 able restaurant offers three- Teahouse” overlooks the charming
In the cellar of a canal house, to seven-course menus. Good Vondelpark. The breakfast and
Struisvogel serves French organic selection of wines. Attentive staff. lunch menus are European,
cuisine. Try the value-for-money French or Mediterranean based.
set menu, accompanied by Rose’s Cantina €€
apple-orange crumble with South American Map 4 F1 Café Toussaint €€
vanilla ice cream. Reguliersdwarsstraat 38–40, 1017 BM International Map 4 D1
Tel (020) 625 9797 Bosboom Toussaintstraat 26, 1054 AS
DK Choice The menu at this established, Tel (020) 685 0737
sprawling South American rest-
This small café with an open
Restaurant Vinkeles €€€ aurant focuses on tacos, enchiladas kitchen is an absolute gem. Focus
French Map 1 B5 and quesadilla. Also try Rose’s is on healthy, international fare:
Keizersgracht 384, 1016 GB house burger. Great cocktails, and soups, sandwiches and tapas.
Tel (020) 530 2010 Closed Sun a “tequilla library”. DJs on weekend. Good range for vegetarians.
At this world famous, Michelin-
starred restaurant, ask to be Steakhouse Piet de Leeuw €€ Due Napoletani €€
seated amid 18th-century Traditional Map 4 F2 Italian Map 4 E4
bakery ovens, or dine on a Noorderstraat 11, 1017 TR Hobbemakade 61–63, 1071 XL
19th-century salon boat. Be Tel (020) 623 7181 Tel (020) 671 1263 Closed Tue
prepared for the finest of fine- Open since 1949, this eatery is Chic Italian cuisine is served in
dining experiences, featuring famous for its steaks (beef and an informal setting. The pasta
the best in French cuisine. horse) and fish (sole, salmon). al parmigiano is a popular dish.
The anjou duif (pigeon) is Frequented by locals who praise Staff here are so accomodating
particularly recommended. the food as well as the brown that if you call ahead, they will
café decor. also open for lunch.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 402
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408  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

The Seafood Bar €€ they also serve Dutch wild boar dishes and set menus are on offer
Seafood Map 4 D3 and Italian, Indonesian and Indian at this neighbourhood Japanese-
Van Baerlestraat 5II, 1071 AL fare. Credit cards are not accepted. style brasserie. The squid and the
Tel (020) 670 8355 St Jacques sashimi are wonderful.
This sleek and trendy seafood Bloem € Credit cards not accepted.
bar is open for lunch and dinner. European Map 6 D2
The menu changes every three Entrepotdok 36, 1018 AD DK Choice
months, although some favourites Tel (020) 330 0929
remain. Popular dishes include Almost all the bread, fruit, La Rive €€€
fruits de mer and fish and chips. vegetables and meat served here Mediterranean Map 5 B4
are organic, and locally sourced Amstel Hotel, Professor Tulpplein 1,
Srikandi €€ wherever possible. Delicious, as 1018 GX
Indonesian Map 4 E2 well as healthy. Tel (020) 520 3264 Closed Mon,
Stadhouderskade 31, 1071 ZD lunch on Sat
Tel (020) 664 0408 De Pizzabakkers Plantage € La Rive offers beautiful, elegant
Art and music create an authentic Italian Map 5 C2 cuisine elevated to the level
atmosphere at this traditional Plantage Kerklaan 2, 1018 TA of art. This Michelin-starred
Indonesian restaurant. Known for Tel (020) 625 0740 restaurant is located in the
its version of a rijsttafel (rice table) Come here for authentic Italian ultra-lux Amstel Hotel, and
with 18 dishes. Good vegetarian pizza, made with locally sourced serves dishes inspired by
options. Book ahead. ingredients, and baked in a wood French and Mediterranean
oven. Good range of antipasti, flavours, created using high-
The College Hotel €€€ vegetarian choices and desserts. quality seasonal produce.
Modern Dutch Map 4 E5 Cash not accepted. It also has a selection of
Roelof Hartstraat 1, 1071 VE outstanding wines. Reserve
Tel (020) 571 1511 Paerz €€ the Chef’s table.
Housed in a former 1895 school European Map 6 D2
building, this elegant venue Entrepotdok 64, 1018 AD
combines a restaurant, hotel and Tel (020) 623 2206 Closed Mon & Tue
lounge bar. Known for its classic Choose from the chef’s menu Western Canal Ring
Dutch cuisine with a modern with three or four courses or the De Bolhoed €
twist. Lovely courtyard. à la carte menu. Both are inspired International Map 1 B3
by classic French cuisine and Prinsengracht 60–62, 1015 DX
Le Garage €€€ feature seasonal produce. In Tel (020) 626 1803
International Map 4 E4 summer, the seating beside the Enjoy pleasant views from the
Ruysdaelstraat 54–56, 1071 XE water is particularly pleasant. canalside terrace at this popular
Tel (020) 679 7176 Closed Sun; vegetarian restaurant. It serves
Sat lunch De Plantage €€ imaginative international dishes
Le Garage is an elegant bistro International Map 5 C2 (Mexican, Mediterranean, Asian,
with plush red seating, set in a Plantage Kerklaan 36, 1018 CZ African) with a daily vegan choice.
renovated garage. French and Tel (020) 760 6800 Mostly organic and seasonal
international fare on offer, with an This industrial-chic restaurant, next ingredients, along with delicious
emphasis on organic ingredients. to the zoo, offers breakfast, lunch desserts. Book ahead.
and dinner. Try the daily changing
Plats Plantage (mixed plate of Greenwoods €
Plantage meats or vegetarian options) Tearoom Map 1 C4
Aguada € or the juicy Burgos lamb. Singel 103, 1012 VG
International Map 5 C3 Tel (020) 623 7071
Roetersstraat 10-W, 1018 WC Tempura €€ Opt for a full English breakfast
Tel (020) 620 3782 Japanese Map 5 C2 (served all day) or a more delicate
This tiny, family-run café-restaurant Plantage Kerklaan 26, 1018 TC high tea at this welcoming
offers “home-cooked” food in Tel (020) 428 7132 Closed Mon English-style tearoom. Another
an informal atmosphere. Cheese Extensive sushi, yakatori, tempura, branch, on the Keizersgracht 465,
fondue is their speciality, but as well as grilled and vegetarian also serves dinner (fish and chips).
Pancake Bakery €
Bakery Map 1 C3
Prinsengracht 191, 1015 DS
Tel (020) 625 1333
This family-run eatery serves a
variety of pancakes. Favourites
include Egyptian (lamb, paprika,
garlic sauce), Caprese (mushrooms,
mozzarella, basil pesto, sundried
tomatoes) and the classic Dutch
(syrup, powdered sugar or bacon).
Piqniq €
Café Map 1 C3
Lindengracht 59,1015 KC
Tel (020) 320 3669 Closed Tue
Piqniq offers a selection of
Elegant interiors at the Michelin-starred La Rive in Amsterdam miniature homemade goodies:
Key to Price Guide see page 406

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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  409

mini-sandwiches, soups, bite- is renowned for its creative,
sized quiches and cakes. Order innovative dishes, and terrific
a selection or try the fixed menu. views of Amsterdam. The place
High tea, gluten-free options. to make an impression.
Black and Blue €€ DK Choice
Steakhouse Map 1 B4
Leliegracht 46, 1015 DH De Kas €€€
Tel (020) 625 0807 Organic
Meat lovers head to this Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3 1097 DE
steakhouse for a fine selection Tel (020) 462 4562 Closed Sun
of organic steaks and Angus beef Dine in a lush oasis surrounded
burgers from a charcoal grill/oven. by plants at this restaurant set
Or try the Cornish hen with in a 1920s greenhouse, or
thyme and lemon. Small terrace. reserve the frantic Chef’s Table
in the kitchen. The Michelin-
Chez Georges €€ starred chef and owner offers a
French Map 1 C3 fixed three-course menu
Herenstraat 3, 1015 BX (vegetarian options available) Grand interior of De Jopenkerk, Haarlem,
Tel (020) 626 3332 Closed Sun based on the seasonal produce which was once a church
A must for gourmands, Chez cultivated in the adjacent
Georges dishes up a seasonal nursery or sourced from local and Creole influences at this
Burgundian menu. Sample the growers of organic food, as well intimate restaurant on “Bacon
daily changing five-course set as meat and fish producers. Street”. Order the Umami menu.
meal and dessert. Ask for
vegetarian options. Fine wine HAARLEM: Ratatouille €€€
selection. Book ahead. International Map B3
Spaarne 96, 2011 CL
Stout! €€ North Holland Tel (023) 542 7270 Closed Sun &
Fusion Map 1 C3 Mon; Wed–Sat lunch
Haarlemmerstraat 73, 1013 EL BLARICUM: Tafelberg € Michelin-starred chef Jozua
Tel (020) 616 3664 International Map C3 Jaring proves that it’s possible to
Indulge in international cuisine Oude Naarderweg 2, 1261 DS prepare delectable and subtly
with inspired flavour combinations. Tel (035) 538 3975 flavoured dishes using ordinary,
“Stout Plateau” offers ten small Opened in the 1930s as a teahouse affordable ingredients. Choose
treats, or try the fresh “Catch on the heath, Tafelberg is now from two to eight courses
of the Day”. Pleasant terrace a full-fledged restaurant with a accompanied by wine.
for people-watching while large terrace that serves as an
having lunch. idyllic resting spot after a walk HEEMSTEDE: Southern Cross €€
in the woods. Expect the odd Australian Map B3
Dutch celebrity. Zandvoortselaan 24, 2106 CP
Further Afield Tel (023) 521 9992 Closed Mon
Azmarino € DK Choice There is no clearly defined
East African Map 5 A5 “Australian cuisine”, so except for
Tweede Sweelinckstraat 6, 1073 EH HAARLEM: De Jopenkerk €€ the grilled crocodile and roasted
Tel (020) 671 7587 Closed Mon Traditional Map B3 kangaroo, this restaurant serves
This restaurant, with traditional Gedempte Voldersgracht 2, world food with a distinct Aussie
African furnishings, serves a classic 2011 WB touch. On balmy summer nights,
menu: enjera (pancakes), a choice Tel (023) 533 4114 book a table on the patio.
of meats (mild to spicy), and some This century-old church has
vegetarian options. Try eggs in been stunningly transformed HILVERSUM: Surya €
red sauce, or enjera with meat into a grand café (on the Indian Map C3
or vegetable sauces. Open on ground floor) and a restaurant Langestraat 126, 1211 HC
weekends for breakfast and lunch. (upstairs) with an in-house Tel (035) 631 9420 Closed Mon
brewery. Most of the mainly Not your average curry house: this
Blauw €€ Dutch meat and fish dishes are eatery features colourful decor and
Indonesian Map 3 A4 cooked with beer, and every long benches with lots of cushions.
Amstelveenseweg 158, 1075 XN course comes with a beer Serves a plethora of Indian and
Tel (020) 675 5000 recommendation. A favourite Nepalese specialities, such as
Blauw is one of the better-known among locals, the restaurant chicken tikka and lamb vindaloo,
and beloved Indonesian restau- can get noisy, especially on as well as vegetarian dishes.
rants in town. The decor is stylish weekend nights.
and intimate, without a hint HILVERSUM: Rex €€
of kitsch. Order the enormous International Map C3
rijsttafel. Worth the trip. HAARLEM: Specktakel €€ Groest 23, 1211 CZ
Fusion Map B3 Tel (035) 631 9529
Ciel Bleu €€€ Spekstraat 4, 2011 HM Former 1920s Art Deco cinema
French Tel (023) 532 3841 turned into a hip club, lounge
Okura Hotel, Ferdinand Bolstraat 333, Expect organic meat, fresh and restaurant, Rex dishes up
1072 LH seafood and exotic game salads, pasta and fish, but is best
Tel (020) 678 7111 Closed Sun prepared in Japanese, Chinese, known for the dry-aged steaks.
Awarded a second Michelin star Italian or French style with Side dishes are extra. Dine on
in 2011, this French restaurant Australian, African, American the terrace in the summer.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 402
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410  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

HOOFDDORP: Vork en Mes €€ serves sandwiches, soup and relaxed atmosphere prove to be
Creative Map B3 snacks by day, and stone oven a winning combination. Try the
Paviljoenlaan 1, 2131 LZ pizzas, steaks and more lamb with apricots, sesame and
Tel (023) 557 2963 Closed Sun sophisticated dishes at night. seasonal vegetables.
Futuristic pavilion on the lake
provides a unique setting for a MAARSSEN: De Nonnerie €€
leisurely meal. The chef was trained French Map C4
at Michelin-starred restau rants Utrecht Langegracht 51, 3601 AK
and cooks up a changing five- Tel (0346) 562 201 Closed Sun; lunch
course surprise menu. AMERSFOORT: Hop en Hen € Creative cooking guarantees a
International Map C4 great dining experience at this
MONNICKENDAM: Hof 8, 3811 CJ beautifully restored former
Posthoorn €€€ Tel (033) 737 0005 Closed Mon nunnery by the Vecht river. The
French Map C3 Chicken and beer feature three- to five-course set menus
Noordeinde 43, 1141 AG prominently on the menu at this are good value for money.
Tel (0299) 654 598 Closed Mon cheerful eatery, where tables at
Delicate French food is served in the back even have their own DK Choice
two of the prettiest houses in this beer tap. Guests can also opt to
fairytale town. The decor meticu- sit on the terrace that overlooks UTRECHT: Badhu €
lously matches old-world charm the bustling town square. Arabian Map C4
with modern comforts. One Willem van Noortplein 19, 3514 GK
Michelin star. AMERSFOORT: De Saffraan €€€ Tel (030) 272 0444
French Map C4 As befits a restaurant set in a 1920s
OUDERKERK AAN DE Kleine Koppel 3, 3812 PG bathhouse, Badhu’s interior is
AMSTEL: Lute €€€ Tel (033) 448 1753 Closed Sun & inspired by an Arabian hamam.
French Map C3 Mon; Sat–Wed lunch The restaurant is very popular
De Oude Molen 5, 1184 VW A century-old clipper on the Eem and is open all day, serving
Tel (020) 472 2462 Closed Sun; river has been transformed into Arabian breakfast, meze (small
Sat lunch an intimate and stylish restaurant. Arabian dishes to share) for lunch,
Set in an 18th-century gunpowder Alfresco dining on the deck in afternoon chai (high tea Arabian
mill, Lute makes the most of its the summer. style) and evening cocktails in a
location by the Amstel river, with thousand-and-one-nights setting.
sophisticated dishes served in BAARN: Pomodori €
the stables, the greenhouse or Italian Map C3
on the terrace. Laandwarsstraat 15, 3743 BS UTRECHT: De Keuken
Tel (035) 541 4013 Closed Sun, van Gastmaal €€
SANTPOORT: Brasserie DenK €€ Mon–Wed lunch French Map C4
French Map B3 Tiny restaurant in an even tinier Biltstraat 5, 3572 AA
Duin en Kruidbergweg 60, 2071 LE back alley, Klein Fornuis prepares Tel (030) 233 4633 Closed Sun & Mon
Tel (023) 512 1800 classic dishes with an imaginative Just a few tables are centred
This sleek lounge bar and brasserie twist. Weekly changing set around an open kitchen, in
is housed in a Neo-Renaissance menus on offer. which the chef works wonders
castle-like country estate. The bar with sustainable fish, organic
menu offers brasserie food, while HOUTEN: Kasteel meat and regional vegetables.
the brasserie itself has a decent Heemstede €€€ Dishes are paired with fine wines.
restaurant menu. French Map C4
Heemsteedseweg 20, 3992 LS VREELAND AAN DE VECHT:
ZANDVOORT: Tijn Akersloot €€ Tel (030) 272 2207 Closed Sun & De Nederlanden €€€
International Map B3 Mon French Map C3
Boulevard Paulus Loot 1B, 2042 AD Housed in a romantic 17th-century Duinkerken 3, 3633 EM
Tel (023) 571 2547 castle, this Michelin-starred restaur- Tel (0294) 232 326 Closed Mon;
At the quiet end of the popular ant has a terrace that seems to Sat lunch
Zandvoort beach, this beach club float in the moat surrounding the Set in a monumental mansion,
castle. Fine dining, great service this boutique hotel and Michelin-
and an excellent wine list. starred restaurant serves refined
French cuisine along with a
LEUSDEN: Bistro Bling €€ 500-bottle wine list. Fantastic
French Map C4 terrace and kitchen garden.
Waarden 25B, 3831 HA
Tel (033) 433 2070 Closed Mon
The interior lives up to the name
with cheap chandeliers, glass South Holland
curtains and baroque mirrors,
but the service is friendly and DELFT: La Tasca €€
the bistro fare is well done. Mediterranean Map B4
Voldersgracht 13B, 2611 ET
MAARSSEN: Delice €€ Tel (015) 213 8535 Closed Sun
North African Map C4 Don’t look for the menu – there
Kaatsbaan 25, 3601 EB isn’t one. Guests are invited to
Tel (0346) 284 4534 Closed Sun tell the chef what they don’t like,
& Mon and then wait as he cooks up
Atmospheric interiors at Badhu, an Arabian North African dishes, great wines, a three- to five-course surprise
restaurant in Utrecht contemporary interiors and a meal for them.
Key to Price Guide see page 406
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  411

LEIDEN: Buddhas €€
Thai Map B3
Botermarkt 20, 2311 EN
Tel (071) 514 0047
Huge golden Buddha statues line
the walls of this contemporary
restaurant. There is an extensive
menu, and the generous portions
make it good value for money.
DK Choice
NOORDWIJK: Bries €€
International Map B3
Koningin Astrid Boulevard 102,
2202 BD
Tel (071) 361 7891 Closed winter Tables on the beach at Bries in Noordwijk
Bries is not your average
makeshift beach club, but a Duck, François Geurds is now serving equally modern and
well-designed and spacious a master chef in his own right. well-presented food. The
pavilion, fitted out with stylish Vegetarians get their own multi- adjacent bistro is also superb.
furniture. There are loungers course tasting menu. The Chef’s
and cabanas, plus massage Table is a coveted spot. THE HAGUE: HanTing Cuisine €€
and yoga on the beach. The Fusion Map B4
full-fledged menu leans ROTTERDAM: Zeezout €€€ Prinsestraat 33, 2513 CA
heavily towards fresh seafood. Seafood Map B4 Tel (070) 362 0828 Closed Mon; lunch
Pick your choice of fish at the Westerkade 11B, 3016 CL Chinese chef Han expertly fuses
Wednesday fish market. Open Tel (010) 436 5049 Closed Mon; traditional French cooking with
in the summer only. Sun lunch oriental flavours, creating dishes
Fabled fish restaurant, Zeezout that please the eye as well as the
is situated in the fisherman’s palate. The rice-paper lanterns
OOSTVOORNE: Aan Zee €€ quarter of arguably the world’s are pretty too. One Michelin star.
Traditional Map B4 biggest seaport. Fresh fish only,
Strandweg 1, 3233 CW with seasonally changing menus. THE HAGUE: Logisch €€
Tel (0181) 820 990 Closed Mon & Tue Great in summer, with panoramic Organic Map B4
This striking pavilion in the dunes views over the Maas river. Maliestraat 9, 2514 CA
is truly sustainable: it is built of Tel (070) 363 5259 Closed Sun & Mon
untreated wood, fed by solar and SCHEVENINGEN: At Sea €€€ Organic food that is cheerful
wind energy and uses dune water. Mediterranean Map B4 and good value. Choose from
Round off your meal with breath- Heilingweg 138, 2583 DX set menus inspired by the sea,
taking views from the watchtower. Tel (070) 331 7445 Closed Mon & woods or garden. Or opt for à
Open for lunch daily from May to Tue; Sat & Sun lunch la carte – black Angus steak with
September if the weather is sunny. This sleek restaurant in an old asparagus and mushrooms or
fishing port dishes out delicious steamed sea catfish with herbs.
ROTTERDAM: Bird €€ seafood (but also meat and game)
Italian/Mediterranean Map B4 paired with fine wines. Order THE HAGUE: The Penthouse €€€
Raampoortstraat 26, 3032 AH à la carte, go for the five-course International Map B4
Tel (010) 737 1154 Closed Sun & Mon Chef’s Choice or choose from Rijswijkseplein 786, 2516 LX
Savour Neapolitan pizza and set menus that change daily. Tel (070) 305 1000
Mediterranean comfort food at the This is probably the poshest spot
restaurant wing of this pop ular SCHIPLUIDEN: Aan de Zweth €€€ in town, although not for those
jazz stage and nightclub. On French Map B4 afraid of heights. Packs a terrace
“culinary cinema nights”, guests Rotterdamseweg 480, 2636 KB café, skybar, restaurant and night-
are served exactly what is being Tel (010) 470 4166 Closed Tue; club all in one, with a smashing
eaten on-screen. Set menus only. Sat lunch view from the 42nd floor of
Exclusive restaurant with two a skyscraper.
ROTTERDAM: Sānsān €€ Michelin stars – and food, prices,
Chinese Map B4 ambience and service to match.
Hang 33, 3011 GG Set in a picturesque house along
Tel (010) 411 5681 Closed Tue the Schie creek. A seat at the Zeeland
A favourite among Chinese locals Chef’s Table includes an aperitif
and visitors, Sānsān is known aboard the restaurant’s own sloop. BURGH-HAAMSTEDE:
for the quality of food and Pannekoekenmolen
service. The traditional Sichuan STREEFKERK: De De Graanhalm €
fare ranges from delicate lemon Limonadefabriek €€ Bakery Map A4
fish to fiery sizzling beef. Creative Map B4 Burghseweg 53, 4328 LA
Nieuwe Haven 1, 2959 AT Tel (0111) 652 415
ROTTERDAM: FG Restaurant €€€ Tel (0184) 689 335 Closed Mon & This pancake house in a working
International Map B4 Tue; Oct–Apr: Sat lunch windmill serves pancakes in
Katoshoek 37b, 3032 AE Despite its name and appearance, 35 sweet and savoury varieties,
Tel (010) 425 0520 Closed Sun & Mon this is not a lemonade factory, such as sugar and syrup, bacon
After years of molecular cooking but a strikingly modern floating and cheese or strawberries and
at Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat restaurant on the Lek river, whipped cream.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 402
406-415_EW_Netherlands.indd 411 16/01/17 11:54 am

412  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

CADZAND: Pure C €€€ island, shrimp from the Wadden
Mediterranean Map A5 Sea and fish from the North Sea,
Boulevard de Wielingen 49, 4506 JK cheese from a nearby sheep farm
Tel (0117) 396 036 Closed Mon & Tue and locally brewed beer.
Latest venture of celebrity chef
Sergio Herman, this restaurant
was awarded a Michelin star DK Choice
soon after opening. Great food, VLIELAND: Uitspanning Het
relaxed atmosphere. Armhuis €€€
International Map C1
DK Choice Kerkplein 6, 8899 AW
Tel (0562) 451 935 Closed Mon &
DOMBURG: Het Tue
Badpaviljoen €€€ This monumental 17th-
Seafood Map A5 century almshouse once
Badhuisweg 21, 4357 AV sheltered orphans, the elderly,
Tel (0118) 582405 Closed Tue & the poor and the needy. It is
Wed now home to the island’s best
In a fairytale turn-of-the-century restaurant. A bistro by day,
bathing pavilion on a dune top, it serves three- or four-course
this fine-dining restaurant has Lovely table setting at Herberg Onder set menus for dinner. Enjoy
a clean-cut interior and serves de Linden, Aduard refined, classically cooked
anything fishy, from the freshest dishes either indoors or
Zeeland oysters and mussels superb views of the surrounding outside in the garden.
to North Sea crab and whole creeks and the Oosterschelde.
lobsters. Order a seafood plate Serves mainly seafood.
for two and dine alfresco on
the seaside terrace.
Groningen
West Frisian Islands
GOES: Jan €€ ADUARD: Herberg Onder
Seafood Map A5 AMELAND: Boerenbont €€ de Linden €€€
Bierkade 3A, 4461 AV Modern Dutch Map C1 French Map D1
Tel (0113) 219 974 Closed Tue & Wed Strandweg 50, 9163 GN Nes Burg. van Barneveldweg 3, 9831 RD
This fish restaurant in the old Tel (0519) 542 293 Tel (050) 403 1406 Closed Sun–Tue
harbour features a chic interior. A mix of old and new: the cuisine The chef has kept his Michelin
The chef’s speciality is classically is traditional – with a touch of the star rating for nearly three
cooked shellfish: oysters, crab and modern – served on the classic decades, so expect good quality
clams galore. Quayside terrace. painted crockery from which the and prices to match. Limited but
restaurant takes its name. Old mouth-watering set menus.
HOOFDPLAAT: De Kromme Dutch texts on the walls temper
Watergang €€€ the contemporary decor. GRONINGEN: Het
Regional Map A5 Goudkantoor €
Slijkplaat 6, 4513 KK SCHIERMONNIKOOG: Mediterranean Map D1
Tel (0117) 348 696 Closed Mon & Ambrosijn €€ Waagplein 1, 9712 JZ
Tue; first two weeks in Jun; last week Regional Map D1 Tel (050) 589 1888 Closed Sun
Sep–first week Oct Langestreek 13, 9166 LA dinner
Adventurous cooking with an Tel (0519) 720 261 The “Gold Office” is where taxes
emphasis on seafood is the high- This intimate place serves salads were collected during the
light of this two-star restaurant and sandwiches by day, and Golden Age. It now houses
located in a hamlet called Slijkplaat, three- to five-course set menus a fine restaurant, serving
or “mud plate”. Food comes straight for dinner. “Ambro” is the name of Mediterranean fare for the
from the silty clay of Zeeland. the wild apples that grow all over local palate.
the island, and which the restau-
MIDDELBURG: Scherp €€ rant puts in its crunchy apple pie. DK Choice
Regional Map A5
Wijngaardstraat 1–5, 4331 PM TERSCHELLING: Loods €€ GRONINGEN: WEEVA €
Tel (0118) 634 633 Closed Sun & Mon; International Map C1 Regional Map D1
end Jul–mid-Aug; end Dec–mid-Jan Willem Barentszkade 39, 8881 BD Gedempte Zuiderdiep 8–10,
Chef Scherp serves dishes such Tel (0562) 700 200 9711 HG
as Zeeland oysters with wasabi Comfort food is dished up in a Tel (050) 588 6555
cream, cucumber, passion fruit light-flooded dining room with This “Living and Eating House
foam and chardonnay vinegar. an industrial feel. Scaffolding for All” retains the original
Regional delicacies, some meat wood tables, designer chairs and atmosphere of the 1871
and game, but mainly seafood. large metal lamps constitute the soup kitchen it once was,
interior. Pleasant seaview terrace. even though the clientele
OUWERKERK: De Vierbannen €€€ is greatly changed. It serves
French Map A5 TEXEL: Topido €€ good comfort food, prepared
Weg van de Buitenlandse Pers 3, Regional Map B2 with regional and healthy
4305 RJ Kikkertstraat 23, 1795 AA De Cocksdorp ingredients, at affordable
Tel (0111) 647 547 Closed Mon & Tue Tel (0222) 316 227 Closed Mon prices – such as the dish of
Housing a brasserie and restau rant, Head here to get a taste of Texel: the day for under €10.
this building has a terrace with lamb, goat and beef from the
Key to Price Guide see page 406
406-415_EW_Netherlands.indd 412 16/01/17 11:54 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  413

GRONINGEN: Flinders Café €€ MAKKUM: De Prins € RODEN: Cuisinerie
International Map D1 Traditional Map C2 Mensinge €€
Nieuweweg 2/Schuitendiep 54, Kerkstraat 1, 8754 CN French Map D2
9711 TD Tel (0515) 231 510 Closed Tue; Mensingheweg 1, 9301 KA
Tel (050) 737 0242 Closed dinner Mon & Wed lunch Tel (050) 501 3149 Closed Mon &
Located in Noorderplantsoen Established in 1760, De Prins has Tue
park, this ship-shaped Art Deco been run by the same family for The coach house and stables
pavilion serves breakfast, lunch, three generations. The taproom of a 600-year-old manor tucked
snacks and dinner. Diners can features hand painted tiles on the away in a nature reserve now
choose from soups and salads to walls. Old-fashioned Dutch dining. house a wonderfully romantic
full-fledged meals. bistro and restaurant. No à la
SNEEK: Cook & Ny € carte at dinner.
NOORDLAREN: International Map C2
De Waterjuffers bij Vos €€ 1e Oosterkade 24, 8605 AA RODERESCH: Herberg
Regional Map E2 Tel (0515) 433 019 Closed Mon van Es €€
Osdijk 4, 9479 TC This eatery has everything to International Map D2
Tel (050) 711 9310 Closed winter: attract diners: a sleek interior, an Hoofdweg 1, 9305 TD
Mon–Fri international-sounding name Tel (050) 501 2660 Closed Mon &
This restaurant with a waterside and great tapas, from patatas Tue
terrace is set on the banks of the bravas and vegetable-filled filo to The natural area surrounding this
Zuidlaardermeer in a nature garlic snails and catfish saté. restaurant is popular among hikers
reserve. Serves eel and zander and bikers. Extensive menus for
straight from the lake, but also lunch and dinner, and a game
vegetarian and meat dishes. menu (in season) featuring deer,
Drenthe hare, boar and more.
ASSEN: Touché €€ ZUIDLAREN: De Vlindertuin €€€
Friesland Fusion Map D2 French Map E2
Markt 20, 9401 GT Stationsweg 41, 9471 GK
Tel (0592) 769 069 Closed Mon Tel (050) 409 4531 Closed Sun &
DK Choice The chef cooks up modern takes Mon
on traditional dishes here, such
The Michelin-starred “Butterfly
HARLINGEN: Anna as slowly braised duck glazed Garden” is one of Drenthe’s finest
Casparii €€ with hoisin sauce and star anise. restaurants, serving refined French
Seafood Map C2 Set in the town’s prettiest square. food with a modern twist in a
Noorderhaven 67–71, 8861 AL 300-year-old farmhouse. Order
Tel (0517) 412 065 DK Choice the eight-course tasting menu.
Housed in a historic building
dating back to the 18th century, BORGER: Villa van Streek €€
this traditional in-house restau- Regional Map E2
rant of Hotel Anna Casparii Torenlaan 13, 9531 JH Overijssel
offers an extensive selection of Tel (0599) 657 007 Closed Mon
fresh seafood and an impressive In the dolmen capital of Drenthe,
range of beers. The attractive a former Royal Marshals barracks DK Choice
canalside setting provides now houses this artistically
the ideal backdrop to enjoy decorated eatery. Open all day DE LUTTE: De
a leisurely meal. for brunch, lunch and dinner, Bloemenbeek €€€
it offers a changing menu of French Map E3
regionally harvested dishes at Beuningerstraat 6, 7587 LD
HEERENVEEN: Het Ambacht €€ affordable prices. The adjacent Tel (0541) 551 224
International Map D2 shop and tourist info sells maps Located in the gently rolling
Burg. Falkenaweg 56, 8442 LE for touring the nearby dolmens. landscape of the Dinkel valley,
Tel (0513) 232 172 Closed Sun & Michelin-starred “The Flower
Mon; Sat lunch Stream” is a fine dining restaurant
Chef Henk Markus, dubbed “the attached to a country house
Frisian Jamie Oliver”, transformed a hotel. The cuisine is a delightful
century-old technical school into amalgamation of French and
a trendy restaurant that employs Dutch styles, but the extensive
disadvantaged youth. Sample and well-chosen wine list is
local delicacies like monkfish, very French.
wagyu beef and ringneck dove.
LEEUWARDEN: De Walrus € DEVENTER: Jackies
International Map D1 NYCuisine €€
Gouverneursplein 37, 8911 HH International Map D3
Tel (058) 213 7740 Grote Poot 19, 7411 KE
Spreading over three floors, this Tel (0570) 616 666
grand café is a go-to place for This contemporary eatery is
dinner or just drinks. The menu inspired by the style of Jackie O
is international, ranging from pop- and the cuisine of New York City,
ular Dutch staples to Thai-style including Chinatown. Spot on,
curries. Welcoming pavement Smoked salmon, one of the dishes that with great food and attentive
terrace and lively atmosphere. visitors can sample in Friesland service in a stylish setting.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 402
406-415_EW_Netherlands.indd 413 16/01/17 11:54 am

414  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ENSCHEDE: Yuen’s Oriental Boshuis Drie dishes up evergreen
Bistro €€ Dutch favourites, such as pan-
Asian Map E3 cakes for lunch and shrimp
Noorderhagen 9, 7511 EJ cocktail, game stew or juicy
Tel (053) 911 887 Closed Sun & Mon steaks for dinner.
The chef fuses fresh organic
ingredients and Japanese, Thai, DK Choice
Mongolian, Cantonese and Korean
flavours into an affordable surprise NIJMEGEN: De Nieuwe
menu at this modern Asian Winkel €€
restaurant with an open kitchen. Fusion Map D4
Hertogstraat 71, 6511 RW
ZWOLLE: Librije’s Hotel €€€ Tel (024) 322 5093 Closed Sun &
Modern Dutch Map D3 Mon
Spinhuisplein 1, 8011 ZZ Radish in “edible soil” served
Tel (038) 421 2083 Closed Mon in a flowerpot, followed by a
lunch “golden egg” filled with
This hotel has two award-winning Charming dining area with neatly laid out poached yolk – and these
restaurants, both offering inventive tables at Librije’s Hotel, Zwolle are only the appetizers. Besides
menus. Set menus rule the roost; a mad chef, “The New Shop”
try the elaborate seven-course boasts a modern decor, friendly
dinner. There is an atelier where Gelderland atmosphere, a minimal menu
groups can cook their meals under and food that is a feast for
a chef’s supervision. Book ahead. ARNHEM: ZafVino €€ the eyes as much as the
Mediterranean Map D4 taste buds.
Zwanenstraat 22, 6811 DD
Tel (026) 379 0009 Closed Tue & Wed
Flevoland Sit wherever there is room,
including communal tables, at
ALMERE-HAVEN: Bij Brons €€ this atmospheric eatery. There is North Brabant
French Map C3 no fixed menu; choose from
Sluis 3, 1357 NZ dishes listed on the blackboard. BERGEN OP ZOOM:
Tel (036) 540 1126 Closed Mon Le Bouleau €€
Right in the marina, this restaurant BARNEVELD: De Oranjerie €€ International Map B5
has tables centred around the International Map D4 Bemmelenberg 16, 4614 PG
open kitchen. Fresh, mostly Stationsweg 4A, 3771 VH Tel (0164) 258 782 Closed Mon & Tue
organic and seasonal ingredients. Tel (0342) 419 601 Closed Sun & Mon In a romantic spot in the woods,
The five-course surprise menu In the grounds of a mock Tudor this restaurant serves inter-
with paired wines is a good deal. castle, this fine-dining restaurant national dishes such as garlic
is an accurate replica of a 19th- gambas and grilled ribeye. The
BIDDINGHUIZEN: century greenhouse. The food, attractively priced three-course
Beachclub NU € from local roe to whole lobsters, market menu is a good choice.
International Map C3 matches the ambience.
Bremerbergdijk 10, 8256 RD BREDA: Wolfslaar €€€
Tel (0321) 331 629 Closed winter: BEEKBERGEN: Het Ei van French Map B5
Mon & Tue Columbus €€ Wolfslaardreef 100–102, 4834 SP
Set on a pretty stretch of sand French Map D4 Tel (076) 560 8000 Closed Sun; Sat
along Lake Veluwe, this smart Stoppelbergweg 63, 7361 TE lunch
beach club offers barbecue, Tel (055) 506 1498 Closed Mon & Tue Set in the converted coach house
tablegrill and a limited menu in the “The Egg of Columbus” offers a of a chic country estate, this
ground-floor lounge and terrace. limited, exquisite but affordable Michelin-starred restaurant offers
For à la carte head upstairs, where menu, in the midst of the leafy modern takes on classic dishes
lake views are an added attraction. Veluwe nature reserve. Three- using sustainable and organic
course set menu for under €30. ingredients, like quail with foie
DK Choice BERG EN DAL: PUUR M €€ gras or halibut with mussels.
URK: Restaurant De Boet € International Map D4 DK Choice
Seafood Map C3 Zevenheuvelenweg 87, 6571 CJ
Wijk 1–61, 8321 EM Tel (024) 684 1452 Closed Tue EINDHOVEN: Kreeftenbar €
Tel (0527) 688 736 Closed Sun; This stylish wine bar-restaurant Seafood Map C5
Sat & Mon lunch has a hundred wines on the list Kleine Berg 21, 5611 JS
This is the smartest restaurant and about two-dozen by the Tel (040) 236 4440 Closed Mon
in the village of Urk, occupying glass, along with a plethora of Discover lobster for the masses:
two old harbourside buildings – starters, comparable to Spanish lobster soup, lobster salad,
an old warehouse and a tapas and raciones. lobster rolls and half and whole
steamship office. The menu lobsters, either cooked or gratin,
changes daily and offers the ERMELO: Boshuis Drie €€ along with a good choice of
freshest of seafood. Try the Traditional Map C3 Asian dishes, from sushi to king
fried plaice, with scallops, Sprielderweg 205, 3852 MK crab and Peking duck. The
mashed potatoes, string beans, Tel (0577) 407 206 Closed Mon prices here are easily affordable,
zucchini and sweet onion A beautifully preserved thatched with a three-course lobster
sauce with mustard. farmhouse in the midst of the dinner for under €30.
‘Forest of the Dancing Trees’,
Key to Price Guide see page 406
406-415_EW_Netherlands.indd 414 16/01/17 11:54 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  415

EINDHOVEN: Smeagol € Expect fine dining, a warm, building right on the edge
Argentinian Map C5 intimate atmosphere, friendly of the Maas river. Great looks,
Kerkstraat 10, 5611 GJ service and an excellent wine list. spectacular tastes.
Tel (040) 737 0298
Enjoy juicy steaks straight from MAASBRACHT: Da Vinci €€€ SLENAKEN: De La Frontière €€
the Argentinian pampas. Other French Map D6 South African Map D6
dishes include empanadas and Havenstraat 27, 6051 CS Grensweg 1, 6277 NA
fajitas, garlic gambas and mixed Tel (0475) 465 979 Closed Mon & Tel (043) 457 4302 Closed Mon & Tue
grill. Modern interior. Tue; Sat lunch Experience a slice of South Africa
Not a pizzeria but a French in south Limburg, complete with
EINDHOVEN: Piet Hein Eek €€ restaurant, this place is run by the zebra skins, pottery and colourful
Creative Map C5 only Dutch female chef with two art, Cape wines and dishes like
Halvemaanstraat 28, 5651 BP Michelin stars. Expect fine French biltong pâté and Kalahari kudu.
Tel (040) 400 9005 Closed Mon fare with meticulously paired
A beautifully revamped former wines, stiff linen and ditto prices. UBACHSBERG: De Leuf €€€
Philips factory now houses Dutch Creative Map D6
designer Piet Hein Eek’s flagship DK Choice Dalstraat 2, 6367 JS
store, workshop, art gallery and Tel (045) 575 0226 Closed Sun &
restaurant. Design lover’s paradise. MAASTRICHT: Umami € Mon; Sat lunch
Chinese Map D6 This fine-dining restaurant
KAATSHEUVEL: De Molen €€€ Stationsstraat 12, 6221 BP with two Michelin stars serves
International Map C4 Tel (043) 351 0006 Closed Mon creatively cooked dishes like sea
Vaartstraat 102, 5171 JG & Tue lunch urchin with avocado, and pigeon
Tel (0416) 530 230 Closed Mon This is one of a small chain of with liquid black pudding.
Expect adventurous Michelin- decidedly modern conceptual
starred cooking at this windmill Chinese eateries (there are six VALKENBURG AAN DE GEUL:
on the edge of a national park. other Umamis around the Tapas BarCelona €
The ten-course tasting menu is country), the side project of Spanish Map D6
absolutely amazing. chef Han of Michelin-starred Berkelstraat 6, 6301 CC
restaurant HanTing in The Tel (043) 852 4524 Closed Mon & Tue
NUENEN: Olijf €€ Hague. Michelin-star quality at The menu at this tapas bar ranges
Mediterranean Map C5 bargain prices: choose seven from garlic bread and spicy
Berg 18, 5671 CC dishes in three courses for potatoes to bacon-wrapped dates
Tel (040) 291 3476 Closed Wed; around €20. and pata negra ham. Gaudí-
Jul & Aug: also Tue inspired pillars, Andalusian lamps
This restaurant is located in the and a big Osborne bull on the wall.
village where Van Gogh painted MAASTRICHT: SoFa €€
The Potato Eaters. Serves mostly Mediterranean Map D6 VALKENBURG AAN DE GEUL:
Mediterranean seafood. Affordable Hoge Weerd 6, 6229 AM Aan de Linde €€
set menus with paired wines. Tel (043) 367 1337 Closed Sun & French Map D6
Mon Jan Deckerstraat 1B, 6301 GX
‘S-HERTOGENBOSCH: Short for “sounds fantastic”, SoFa Tel (043) 601 0577
Eetbar Dit € is set inside the coach house A brasserie by day and a
International Map C4 of a 15th-century castle on a restaurant in the evening, this
Snellestraat 24–26, 5211 EN peninsula in the Maas river. attractive, popular local eatery
Tel (073) 614 1015 Serves sunny Mediterranean food has taken over what was once a
Try a modern take on the old inside and out on the terrace. historic and eclectic casino hotel.
Dutch eetcafé here. Tapas-like
small dishes such as shrimp MAASTRICHT: Beluga WELL: Brienen aan de Maas €€€
croquettes, burgers and rendang Loves You €€€ French Map D5
that are meant to be shared. International Map D6 Grotestraat 11, 5855 AK
Plein 1992 12, 6221 JP Tel (0478) 501 967 Closed Mon & Tue
‘S-HERTOGENBOSCH: De Tel (043) 321 3364 Closed Sun The scenic setting of this Michelin-
Verkadefabriek €€ Visit this star-studded restaurant, starred restaurant along the Maas
International Map C4 both in terms of Michelin stars river is matched by its regionally
Boschdijkstraat 45, 5211 VD (two) and visiting celebrities influenced cooking. The à la carte
Tel (073) 681 8170 (many), in a striking modern menu focuses mainly on seafood.
This former cookie factory now
houses a theatre, cinema and
restaurant. Enjoy lunch, tapas and
dinner in an industrial setting.
Limburg
GULPEN: L’Atelier €€€
French Map D6
Markt 9, 6271 BD
Tel (043) 450 4490 Closed Tue &
Wed; Sat lunch
L’Atelier has to be rated one
of Limburg’s best restaurants. Diners at the popular Verkadefabriek in ‘s-Hertogenbosch
For more information on types of restaurants see page 403


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416  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
SHOPPING IN THE

NETHERLANDS

Throughout the Netherlands you will find centres are usually on the outskirts of towns
a huge range of shops and markets. Many and sometimes grouped together in retail
towns will have large retail chains, but you parks with parking facilities, child-care
will also find unique independent shops facilities and a cafeteria. Most are open, and
selling clothes, everyday goods and knick- at their busiest, on public holidays. Recent
knacks. Large specialized shops such as fashion items can often be picked up cheaply
furniture stores, factory outlets and garden at street markets and second-hand shops.

Fashion
at flea markets, but
your best bet is to The Dutch are spending more
go to an authentic and more of their incomes on
antique dealer. Many good-quality fashionable
antique dealers clothing. Besides internationally
specialize in a renowned couturiers, many
particular period or up-and-coming fashion
field – prints or designers have set up their own
clocks, for instance. boutiques. Their clothes are
If you prefer buying often handmade and fairly
antiques at auctions, pricey. More affordable clothes
you would are available at the larger
Shop selling antiques and curios probably do fashion retailers, both
best to visit home-grown and
Markets
the branches of international. A typical
Practically every town and the international Dutch way of being
village holds a general market auctioneers Sotheby’s fashionable is to
at least once a week. There are or Christie’s. In smaller combine a new and
also specialized markets, for auction houses too, expensive garment with
example, the farmers’ markets, interesting pieces often Antique dealer’s second-hand clothes. To
where you can buy fresh farm go under the hammer. shop sign see the designs of the
produce, as well as antique Another way of buying most famous couturiers,
markets and book fairs. Famous antiques is to visit the antique it is best to go to Amsterdam. On
specialized markets include the markets and fairs that are the PC Hooftstraat you will find
cheese markets of Alkmaar, held regularly throughout clothes by Hugo Boss, Armani
Edam and Gouda. Then there the country. and Yves Saint-Laurent, while
are also flea markets, where Amsterdam’s Nieuwe classical English clothing
traders and individuals alike Spiegelstraat is the place for and shoes are to be found
sell second-hand goods. antique collectors. Vendors in the shops on the Haagse
The Netherlands’ biggest include antique dealers Noordeinde in The Hague.
flea market takes place on specializing in ceramics, glass, Chains such as Vera Moda sell
Koninginnedag (Queen’s Day) antique prints, paintings and everyday and durable clothing.
(see p36), when practically half nautical memorabilia.
of the country tries to get rid of Haarlem, Middelburg and
unwanted goods on the street. ’s-Hertogenbosch have large
Fairs are also popular and are numbers of antique shops;
held twice a year. Most markets these are often located in
start at 9:30am and end at 4pm old farmhouses. The most
or 5pm, while some are open common pieces on sale are
either in the mornings or the pine or oak furniture. The
afternoons only. MECC in Maastricht and
the Brabant hallen in
’s-Hertogenbosch are the
Antiques venues of annual antique fairs,
Antique collectors will find such as the renowned TEFAF,
plenty to occupy themselves the world’s biggest art and
with in the Netherlands. If you antique fair. Antique dealers
are fortunate, you may strike it from around the world come One of the country’s many antique and
lucky in second-hand shops or here to trade. second-hand shops




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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.7)
Date 5th March 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SHOPPING IN THE NE THERLANDS  417


La Vie in Utrecht where international collections
has a good range in particular are auctioned. The
of shops; in The Eland De Zon Loth Gijselman in
Hague, De Passage Diemen, deals in antiquities and
is the prime art and auctions furniture and
shopping centre. estates. Holbein in Rijssen sells
Batavia Stad Outlet art and antiques, the Veilinghuis
Shopping centre de Voorstraat in Zwolle
in Lelystad is a specializes in stamps and coins.
shopping village
built to resemble
a 17th-century Garden Centres
town. Here Dutch garden centres sell plants,
A trendy clothing boutique featuring the very latest in manufacturers of seeds, bulbs, soil, compost and
Dutch fashion expensive brands garden furniture. For more
sell end-of-line unusual plants go to specialist
Retail Stores and products, in particular clothes, growers, of which there are many
Shopping Centres
at heavy discounts. The designer in the Netherlands. Garden
The most upmarket retail store in outlet park in Roermond is a centres are usually on the edge of
the Netherlands is the Bijenkorf, similar place to find bargains. towns or just outside them. They
which offers contemporary are usually open for business on
furniture, the latest names in Furniture Sundays and public holidays.
fashion, a huge book
department and all major The Netherlands’ top furniture
cosmetics brands. The Vroom & designer, Jan des Bouvrie, has his
Dreesmann department stores own shop in a converted arsenal
are slightly smaller and offer in Naarden called Studio het
lower prices than the Bijenkorf. Arsenaal. At Van Til Interior in
One step lower on the prices Alkmaar you can buy designer
scale is Hema, which offers a furniture. In Amsterdam-Zuidoost,
wide and remarkably trendy you can spend a day viewing
range of things such as lighting furniture in the 75 shops of the
accessories and household Villa Arena. Woonthemacentrum
goods. At most shopping De Havenaer in Nijkerk and
centres you will find the same Palazzo Lelystad also offer An abundance of flowers at a Dutch
names, although some centres interesting collections. You will garden centre
are reserved for more exclusive find “meubelboulevards”,
shops. One of these is the shopping streets of furniture Chocolate
Magna Plaza in Amsterdam, stores, throughout the country.
where you will find upmarket Verkade and Droste are the
boutiques and jewellers’ shops. Netherlands’ best-known
De Groene Passage in Rotterdam Auction and chocolate makers, and you can
Sales Houses
is a covered shopping centre find their products everywhere.
dedicated to the environment, The famous British auction Many towns now have specia-
selling items ranging from houses Sotheby’s and Christie’s lized confectioners’ shops. The
organic meat to New Age books. have branches in Amsterdam, renowned Belgian confectioner
Leonidas has numerous outlets
in the country. Puccini Bomboni
produce exceptional chocolates,
sold individually.
Tea and Coffee
The Netherlands has been a tea
and coffee importer for centuries,
and you can find specialist tea
and coffee shops everywhere;
many still roast their own coffee.
In Amsterdam, Simon Levelt
always has at least 25 varieties
of coffee and 100 tea blends on
sale. Geels & Co Koffiebranderij,
an old family business, has a
Magna Plaza (see p94), open for Sunday shopping roasting house and museum.




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418  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

What to Buy in Holland

In the cities and tourist resorts, souvenir shops are not difficult to
find. But if you are looking for something out of the ordinary,
either for yourself or as a gift, you can often find something in
more specialized shops, or even in a supermarket. Flowers and
Delftware never fail to delight. For other things worth taking
home, for example, local delicacies such as Dutch cheese and
speculaas, or drinks such as jenever gin (see p420).




Souvenir Dolls
Dutch national costume is hardly worn in the
Netherlands any more, except by souvenir
dolls such as this trio from Volendam.










Miniature Houses
Painted miniature pottery houses (often Delft
blue) are a popular souvenir. Some are Painted Wooden Clogs
designed to be filled with jenever gin, while The traditional wooden clog has come to
others are purely ornamental. symbolize Holland. They can be bought in all
colours and sizes. They can also be ordered
online at www.woodenshoes.com









Dutch
bulbs Red Coral
Necklaces of red
coral are often part
of traditional Gouda
costume in places Pipes
such as Volendam. Long-
However, they also necked clay
add a nice touch pipes from
when worn with Gouda, known
modern clothing. as Grouwenaars
(see p243), have
been made here
since the
beginning of the
17th centu ry and
Flowers make a nice gift for
Bulbs and cut flowers are available all smokers and non-
the year round in the innumerable smokers alike.
flower shops, flower stalls and garden
centres that are easily found
throughout the Netherlands.




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SHOPPING IN THE NE THERLANDS  419










Prints of Dutch windmills

Old Maps and Prints
Amsterdam in particular has made its mark
in the field of cartography. Many antique
shops sell atlases and books of prints.
Reproductions of maps of Amsterdam and Russia




Inlaid diamond necklace

Diamonds
Diamonds were cut in
Amsterdam as early as the 16th
century, and the town continues
to be one of the main diamond Diamonds of different colours
Diamond brooch centres of the world. Many
jewellers sell uncut diamonds
and second-hand diamond rings.

Modern Delftware
Modern blue Delftware items decorated with
windmills or other images of Holland are
available in the form of tea sets, sculptures,
vases and even royal Delft ashtrays. When
buying, make sure that there is a certificate of
authenticity (see p32) to go with it.
Delftware mugs














Makkum Pottery
This colourful earthenware,
primarily tiles, plates and
bowls, is still produced
by the Tichelaar factory
(see p33) at Makkum
in Friesland.







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420  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Speculaas A distinctive
These biscuits, Edam cheese
flavoured with
cinnamon, cloves
and ginger, are
eaten mainly
around St
Nicholas’s day.
Edam Cheese
Speculaas The world-famous Edam cheese
(see p178) has an excellent taste
and makes a good souvenir.


Speculaas Board
Mould your own speculaas biscuits Haagse Hopjes
in these biscuit moulds, or use These coffee-flavoured
them for attractive wall ornaments. sweets were first made
at the end of the
Zeeland Butter 18th century at the
Candies inspiration of a Baron
These butter- Hop of The Hague.
flavoured sweets
from Zeeland,
made of glucose
sugar syrup and Hopjes
Butter butter, are
candies delicious.





Dutch Beer
The Dutch are
renowned beer-
drinkers. In addition
to the three brands
depicted here, there
are countless other
varieties available.



Zaans Mustard
This coarse mustard Jonge grain Sonnema Zwarte Kip
is made at De jenever herenburg advocaat
Huisman mustard
plant on the Zaanse
Schans (see p179).

Spirits
Gingerbread Renowned Dutch
spirits include jenever, a
kind of gin sold in glass
or stoneware bottles
(there are four basic
kinds, including “young”
Gingerbread Liquorice Drops and “old”), berenburg,
This scrumptious bread comes in a The ubiquitous liquorice the Frisian distilled
variety of regional variations, and is drops are sold either herbal drink and
excellent at breakfast or even as a snack – salted or sweet. advocaat, made of
especially with a thick layer of butter. brandy and eggs.




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SHOPPING IN THE NE THERLANDS  421


A distinctive DIRECTORY
Edam cheese
Antiques Coolsingel 105, Holbein Kunst- en Puccini Bomboni
Rotterdam. Antiekveilingen Staalstraat 17,
Brabanthallen Road Map B4.
Diezekade 2, Tel 0800-0818. Jutestraat 31, Rijssen. Amsterdam.
‘s-Hertogenbosch. Sint-Jacobsstraat 1a, Road Map D3. Map 5 A2
Road Map C4. Utrecht. Tel 0548-541577. Tel 020-6265474.
Tel 073-6293911. Road Map C4. Sotheby’s Singel 184, Amsterdam.
Spring antique fairs. Tel 0800-0818. Emmalaan 23, Map 1 4C
Le Collectionneur ∑ bijenkorf.nl Amsterdam. Tel 020-4278341.
Damplein 5, Middelburg. Magna Plaza Tel 020-5502200.
Road Map A5. Nieuwez. Voorburgwal Tea and Coffee
Tel 0118-638595. 182, Amsterdam. Veilinghuis de Droom van Utrecht
EH Ariëns Kappers Map 1 4C Voorstraat Schoutenstraat 6, Utrecht.
Keizersgracht 208, Tel 020-5703570. Voorstraat 23, Zwolle. Road Map C4.
Amsterdam. De Passage Road Map D3. Tel 030-2316934.
Map 1 B4. Passage, The Hague. Tel 038-4211045.
Tel 020-6235356. Road Map B4. Geels & Co
(call for appointment) Tel 030-2565165. Chocolates Koffiebranderij
Emmakade 2 Antiek La Vie Huize van Wely Kikkertweg 22, 1521 RG
Emmakade 2, Shoppingcentre Beethovenstraat 72, Wormerveer.
Leeuwarden. Lange Viestraat 669, Amsterdam. Road Map B3
Road Map D1. Utrecht. Map 4 D5. Tel 075-2340747.
Tel 058-2153464. Road Map C4. Tel 020-6622009.
Jan de Raad Tel 030-2340088. Hoofdstraat 88, Het Klaverblad
Hogewoerd 15, Leiden.
Antiquiteiten Furniture Noordwijk (ZH).
Hekellaan 10, Road Map B3. Road Map B3.
‘s-Hertogenbosch. Studio het Arsenaal Tel 071-3612228. Tel 071-5133655.
Road Map C4. Kooltjesbuurt 1, Koffiebrander
Tel 065-3177494. Naarden-Vesting. Leonidas Blanche Dael
TEFAF Maastricht Road Map C3. Stationsplein 34, Wolfstraat 28, Maastricht.
Art and Antiques Fair Tel 035-6941144. Amsterdam. Road Map C6.
(Mar), Maastricht. Van Til Interieur Map 2 E3. Tel 043-3213475.
Road Map D6. Noorderkade 1038, Tel 020-3305261.
∑ tefaf.com Alkmaar. Rembrandthof 55, Simon Levelt koffie-
De Tijdspiegel Road Map B3. Amstelveen. en theehandel
Nieuwstraat 17, Tel 072-5112760. Road Map B3. Prinsengracht 180,
Middelburg. Villa Arena Tel 026-2320000. Amsterdam.
Road Map A5. Arena Boulevard, Radboudkwartier 4, Map 1 4B
Tel 0118-627799. Amsterdam-Zuidoost. Utrecht. Tel 020-6240823.
Tel 0800-8455227. Road Map C4. Veerstraat 15, Bussum.
Retail Stores and ∑ villaarena.nl Road Map C3.
Shopping Centres Tel 030-2110011. Tel 035-6939459.
Auction and Sales Ds. Jan Scharpstraat
De Bijenkorf Houses 298–81, Rotterdam. Zwanestraat 38,
Dam 1, Amsterdam. Road Map B4. Groningen.
Map 2 D3. Christie’s Tel 010-4048210. Road Map D1.
Tel 0800-0818. Cornelis Schuytstraat 57, Gentsestraat 8, Hulst. Tel 050-3114333.
Ketelstraat 45, Arnhem. Amsterdam. Road Map B5. Gierstraat 65, Haarlem.
Road Map D4. Map 3 4C Tel 0114-321848. Road Map B3.
Tel 0800-0818. Tel 020-5755255. Oude Kerkstraat 35, Sluis. Tel 023-5311861.
Wagenstraat 32, De Eland De Zon Road Map A5. Botermarkt 1–2, Leiden.
The Hague. Loth Gijselman Tel 0117-760003. Road Map B3.
Road Map B4. Industrieterrein Verrijn
Tel 0800-0818. Stuart, Weesperstraat Huevelgalerij 131b, Tel 071-5131159.
Piazza 1, Eindhoven. 110–112, Diemen. Eindhoven. Vismarkt 21, Utrecht.
Road Map C5. Road Map C3. Road Map C5. Road Map B3.
Tel 0800-0818. Tel 020-6230343. Tel 040-3070000. Tel 030-2314495.





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422  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN
THE NETHERLANDS

Cultural life in the Netherlands is not confined local VVV (tourist) offices; another option is
to the Randstad. Outside the big cities there the AUB Ticketshop (see p153) in Amsterdam.
is also plenty to do. There is a theatre or a Here you can usually book tickets, or obtain
cultural centre in just about every town, where more information about performances. You
theatre groups, cabaret artists, orchestras and can also get tickets and information via the
rock bands perform. There is also a growing Uitlijn (0900-0191). The major national
number of entertainment complexes, such dailies publish a list of events each week.
as the Miracle Planet Boulevard centre in Most cities publish a weekly uitkrant, or
Enschede. You can find out what’s on either by entertainment guide, while the internet
contacting the relevant venue or through the is another source of information.
Theatre De Brakke Grond (see p151) Toneelschuur in Haarlem have
The Netherlands boasts a and Frascati. The Soeterijn, on won critical acclaim. The
large number of theatres, the other hand, specializes in De Appel group stages both
concentrated mostly around theatre from developing experimental and repertory
Amsterdam. That city’s top countries. The theatre theatre at the Appeltheater
theatre is the Stadsschouwburg company frequently wins in The Hague. Throughout
(see p116), where many touring prizes: the Theatergroup the Netherlands there are
theatre companies put on Hollandia has won great numerous excellent theatre
performances. The Netherlands’ acclaim with its performances groups. Het Zuidelijk Toneel
largest theatre company, in large halls and aircraft of Eindhoven in the south
Toneelgroep Amsterdam, is hangars. The musical dramas always packs theatre halls, as
based here and is now directed of Orkater can be seen in do the Theater van het Oosten
by Ivo van Hove. various parts of the country from Arnhem in the east of the
The annual highlight for at different times of the country and the Noord
opera, theatre and dance is the year, but mainly at the Nederlands Toneel from
Holland Festival. The best in Stadsschouwburg and Groningen in the north.
international cultural offerings Bellevue. De la Mar stages big Every year in May, the
is to be had during the box-office hits, comedy and Festival aan de Werf in
Amsterdam Festival. During concerts by Dutch solo artists Utrecht presents an
the International Theatre and groups. Youth-focused appealing smorgasbord
School Festival in June, theatre is put on in De of theatre and cabaret
experimental drama is Krakeling. For years now performances.
performed at venues such as the perfor mances by the
Musicals and Cabaret
The Netherlands’ most
outstanding musical theatres
are the AFAS Circustheater of
The Hague, the Beatrix Theater
in Utrecht and the Koninklijk
Theater Carré (see p139) in
Amste rdam. These stage
Dutch versions of big box-
office hits such as Les Misérables
and Miss Saigon.
De Kleine Komedie (see p153),
a magnificent 17th-century
building on the Amstel river
opposite the Muziektheater, is
a favourite venue for cabaret
groups. Stand-up comedy has
also gained popularity mainly
through this venue. Other
comedy venues in Amsterdam
are Comedy Café, Toomler and
Scene from the musical Oliver! at the Theater Carré Boom Chicago.




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ENTER T AINMENT IN THE NE THERLANDS  423

Dance
The Netherlands is the proud
home of two world-famous
ballet troupes: the Nationale
Ballet and the Nederlands
Dans Theater (NDT). The
Nationale Ballet is based in
the Musiektheater (see p153),
which is commonly known
among Amsterdam theatre-
goers as the “Stopera”. This
contemporary building can
accommodate 1,600 people
and is a significant centre both
for dance and for opera. The
foyer affords a pleasant view
of the River Amstel.
The Nederlands Dans Dr Anton Philipszaal Music Theater and Lucent Dance Opera Danstheater in The Hague
Theater, based in The
Hague, offers a colourful Film are premiered. The award
programme of modern and Going to the movies continues given to the winning films
contemporary dance and to be a popular pastime in the at this festival is the much-
under the direction of the Netherlands, and you will find coveted Golden Calf statuette.
present choreographers has at least one or more cinemas The IDFA (International
staged sold-out performances in almost every town. Documentary Film Festival
with live music. Introdans of Amsterdam alone has more Amsterdam) is the biggest
Arnhem performs an exciting than 45 cinemas. Foreign- of its kind, held every year in
combination of jazz, flamenco language films are shown in November/December. The
and ethnic dance. The the original language with renowned International Film
country’s biggest choreo- subtitles. The most magnificent Festival in Rotterdam takes
graphers use the Holland cinema in Amsterdam is place each January.
Festival as a platform to Tuschinski, an Art Deco
present their new creations masterpiece built from 1918–
to the public. During the 21, with a stylish foyer and Orchestral, Chamber
and Choral Music
Internationale Theaterschool generous seating (see
Festival, which also takes place p119). The major premieres The Concertgebouw (see
in June, the proportion of are held here: if you want p124) in Amsterdam is
dance performed is growing. to see famous faces, the traditionally the most
The festival venue is the Nes, best time is Wednesday important venue
one of Amsterdam’s oldest evenings at the for concert music. The
streets. Julidans is the name cinema entrance. Grote Zaal hall is famous
given to a summer dance There is a list of all films for its acoustics, and
festival in Amsterdam, in which that are showing at the its resident musicians
contemporary dance by box office of every The Golden are the Koninklijk
various international dance cinema, and such lists are Calf statuette Concertgebouworkest.
companies is performed. also displayed in cafés During the summer
and restaurants. Cinema months, the orchestra puts
programmes change every on special concerts.
Thursday, so you will find a list An outstanding orchestra is
of films that are on in the Rotterdams Philharmonisch
Wednesday’s evening papers Orkest, whose conductor,
and in Thursday’s morning the Czech Jirí Belohlávek,
papers. De Filmkrant is a much- was appointed in 2012.
respected movie magazine The orchestra is based in
that is published every De Doelen in Rotterdam.
Monday, which in addition to The Residentie Orkest, whose
the week’s film listings also history goes back almost 100
provides background infor- years, performs regularly at
mation on major films. Major the Zuiderstrandtheater in
film events in the Netherlands The Hague and is not to
are the Nederlands Film be confused with the
Festival, which is held in Muziekcentrum Frits Philips
Noord Nederlands Toneel staging Anton Utrecht in September and in Eindhoven, where the
Chekhov’s The Seagull October, where Dutch films Brabants Orkest is based.




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424  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


the fact that the building in
which it is located used to
be a dairy. The programme
in both of these respected
venues changes constantly,
and all rock and pop
enthusiasts will eventually
find something to their taste.
Every Sunday in summer
there are free open-air concerts
in the Vondelpark, often with
renowned bands in the line-up.
Programmes are displayed at
the entrances to the park. In
June the world’s largest free
pop festival, the Haagse
Zuiderpark Parkpop, is held
in The Hague. Another
The Amsterdamse Koninklijk Concertgebouworkest performing annual festival which attracts
visitors from near and far
The Gelders Orkest makes used for experimental works. is the Pinkpopfestival in
regular appearances in the The Stadsschouwburg (see Landgraaf (Limburg).
Musis Sacrum concert hall p116) on the Leidseplein
in Arnhem. Another go-to is also host to a great deal Jazz
venue offering a rich of opera, although if
programme of music is experimental opera is your The foremost venue of the
the TivoliVredenburg. thing, the Westergasfabriek jazz scene in Amsterdam is
is probably the best venue. the Bimhuis. Although the
Another good venue to watch casual visitor might find the
Church Music
an opera is the Wilminktheater atmosphere a tad pretentious,
Of the many organs in the in Enschede. the music here is of top
Netherlands, that of the Grote quality, and the Bimhuis
Kerk in Elburg is probably the enjoys a reputation that
best known. Every year it is Rock And Pop goes far beyond the
used in the national amateur Two venues in country’s borders. There
organist competition. The particular have are good jazz cafés to be
instruments in the Oude Kerk established found all over
and the Nieuwe Kerk are the themselves as the Amsterdam, most
most famous of Amsterdam’s most important of them featuring
42 church organs. Organ rock venues in the local jazz bands.
concerts can also be heard Netherlands: Around the
at the Waalse Kerk and also Ahoy’ in Leidseplein are the
on Tuesdays at lunchtime Rotterdam and Alto Jazz Café and
in the Westerkerk. Vredenburg in Bourbon Street, which
The programme of the Utrecht, although is open until 4am on
17th-century Engelse Kerk international rock Hans Dulfer weekdays and until 5am
contains a wide variety of stars now perform in on weekends. Alto is best
music genres, ranging from many parts of the Netherlands. on Wednesdays, when the
Baroque to modern. In With a capacity of over 5,000, “godfather” of Amsterdam jazz,
the Domkerk in Utrecht, the easily accessible Heineken Hans Dulfer, performs. His
concerts are performed on Music Hall is Amsterdam’s daughter Candy, who has
a regular basis. prime rock venue. It has been gained international renown,
used for concerts by megastars sometimes plays in De
such as the late Michael Heeren van Aemstel. De
Opera Jackson and the Rolling Engelbewaarder is a venue
Established in 1988 in Stones. However, for locals, for Sunday jazz. Meanwhile,
Amsterdam, the Dutch there are only two real rock in Rotterdam, the annual
National Opera & Ballet is the venues: Paradiso and North Sea Jazz Festival takes
home of the Nederlandse De Melkweg. Paradiso, in place in the Congresgebouw.
Opera. One of Europe’s most a former church near the Dizzy jazz café has become
modern opera theatres, its Leidseplein, enjoys the greatest a household name among
stage has been graced by respect. The Melkweg (Milky jazz-lovers in Rotterdam,
many established international Way), which is also near the hosting over 100 jazz
companies, although it is also Leidseplein, owes its name to concerts every year.




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ENTER T AINMENT IN THE NE THERLANDS  425


DIRECTORY
Theatres ‘t Spant Orchestra, Westerkerk
Kuyperlaan 3, Bussum. Chamber and Prinsengracht 281,
Appeltheater Choral Music Amsterdam. Map 1 B4.
Duinstraat 6–8, The Road Map C3. Tel 020-624776.
Hague. Road Map B4. Tel 035-6913949. Anton Philipszaal
Tel 070-3502200. Theater aan het Spuiplein 150, The Hague. Opera
Road Map B4.
Arsenaaltheater Vrijthof Tel 070-8800333. Dutch National
Arsenaalplein 1, Vrijthof 47, Maastricht. Opera & Ballet
Vlissingen. Road Map A5. Road Map C6. Concertgebouw Map 5 B2.
Tel 0118-430303. Tel 043-3505555. De Vereeniging Wilminktheater
Keizer Karelplein,
Bellevue Toneelschuur Nijmegen. Road Map D4. Wenninkgaarde 40–42,
Leidsekade 90, Tel 024-3221100. Enschede. Road Map E3.
Amsterdam. Map 4 D1. Lange Begijnestr 9, De Doelen Tel 053-4858500.
Tel 020-5305301/02. Haarlem. Road Map B3. Schouwburgplein 50,
Tel 023-5173910. Rotterdam. Road Map B4. Rock and Pop
Chassé Theater
Claudius Prinsenlaan 8, Transformatorhuis Tel 010-2171717. Ahoy’
Breda. Road Map B5. Klönneplein 2, Musis Sacrum Ahoyveg 10, Rotterdam.
Tel 076-5303032. Amsterdam. Map 1 A1. Velperbuitensingel 25, Road Map B4.
Tel 010-2933810.
Compagnietheater Tel 020-5860710. Arnhem. Road Map D4.
Tel 026-3720720.
Kloveniersburgwal 50, Heineken Music Hall
Amsterdam. Map 2 D5. Musicals and Muziekgebouw Frits Arena Boulevard 590,
Amsterdam.
Tel 020-5205310. Cabaret Philips
Jan van Lieshoutstraat, Tel 0900-6874242.
Concordia AFAS Circustheater Eindhoven. De Melkweg
Oude Markt 15, Enschede. Road Map C5. Lijnbaansgracht 234 a,
Road Map E3. Circusstraat 4, The Hague. Tel 040-2655600. Amsterdam. Map 4 E2.
Tel 053-4300999. Road Map B4. Tel 020-5318181.
Tel 0900-1353. TivoliVredenburg
De Flint Vredenburgkade 11, Paradiso
Conickstraat 60, Beatrix Theater Utrecht. Road Map C4. Weteringschans 6–8,
Amersfoort. Jaarbeursplein 6, Utrecht. Tel 030-2314544. Amsterdam. Map 4 3F.
Road Map C4. Road Map C4. Zuiderstrandtheater Tel 020-6264521.
Tel 033-4229229.
Tel 0900-1353. Houtrustweg 505, The Jazz
Frascati Boom Chicago Hague. Road Map B4.
Nes 63, Amsterdam. Tel 070-8800333. Alto Jazz Café
Map 2 D5. Rozengracht 117, Church Music Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
Tel 020-6266866. Amsterdam. Map 4 E2. 115, Amsterdam.
Tel 020-2170400. Domkerk Map 1 B4.
De Harmonie Tel 020-8454380.
Ruiterskwartier 4, Comedy Café Domplein, Utrecht.
Road Map C4.
Leeuwarden. IJdok 89, Amsterdam. Tel 030-2310403. Bimhuis
Road Map D1. Map 4 E2. Piet Heinkade 3,
Tel 058-2330233. Engelse Kerk Amsterdam.
Tel 020-7220827. Begijnhof 48, Amsterdam. Tel 020-7882188.
De Krakeling Map 1 C5.
Nwe Passeerdersstraat 1, Toomler Tel 020-6249665. Bourbon Street
Amsterdam. Map 4 D1. Breitnerstr. 2, Amsterdam. Leidsekruisstraat 6–8,
Tel 020-6245123. Map 3 C5. Grote Kerk Amsterdam. Map 4 2E.
Tel 020-6233440.
Van Kinsbergenstraat,
De la Mar Tel 020-6707400. Elburg. Road Map D3.
Marnixstraat 402, Dance Tel 0525-681520. Dizzy
‘s-Gravendijkwal 127,
Amsterdam. Map 4 D1. Nieuwe Kerk Rotterdam. Road Map B4.
Tel 0900-3352627.
Rotterdamse Dam, Amsterdam. Map 2 Tel 010-4773014.
Orpheus Schouwburg D5. Tel 020-6386909. De Engelbewaarder
Churchillplein 1, Schouwburgplein 25, Oude Kerk Kloveniersburgwal 59,
Apeldoorn. Rotterdam. Road Map B4. Oudekerksplein 23, Amsterdam. Map 2 5D.
Road Map D3. Tel 010-4118110. Amsterdam. Map 2 D4. Tel 020-6253772.
Tel 055-5270300. Tel 020-6258284. De Heeren van
Stadsschouwburg Schouwburg Arnhem Waalse Kerk Aemstel
Leidseplein 26, Koningsplein 12, Arnhem. Walenplein 157, Thorbeckeplein 5,
Amsterdam. Map 4 E2. Road Map D4. Amsterdam. Amsterdam. Map 5 A2.
Tel 020-6242311. Tel 026-4437343. Tel 020-6232074. Tel 020-6202173.
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426  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Amusement and Theme Parks

The Netherlands offers a great variety of amusement and
theme parks. Whether you want to see frolicking dolphins,
take a white-knuckle ride, go back to Roman times or spend
the day splashing in a swimming pool, there is something for
everyone. And because the Dutch weather doesn’t always
play along, most parks have attractions indoors. Listed below
is a sample of the parks to be found in the country.

Aqua Zoo Friesland working craft smen. The One of the rides at the Hellendoorn
Adventure Park
This watery domain near hands-on fun includes a trip
Leeuwarden shows beavers, in a prehistoric canoe.
minks, polecats, storks and Het Arsenaal and Monte zuma’s Revenge
other animals in their natural (prepare to get wet!). Younger
surroundings. Otters are A large attraction with a children will enjoy Dreumesland
a highlight here, having maritime theme has been set (Dreamland) with its play castle
disappeared from the up at Het Arsenaal in Vlissingen. and much more.
Netherlands due to pollution First visitors watch a naval
of their freshwater habitat. A review with models of famous Burgers’ Zoo
path winds its way through ocean liners, including the This unusual park allows you
the entire terrain, leading at Titanic. For those hooked on to see animals from all over
one point through a glass adrenaline there is a shipwreck the world in their natural
tunnel that provides visitors simulator and a scary pirate environments, which have been
with a close-up of the otters’ cave on a treasure island. In carefully re-created here.
underwater antics. Onderwaterwereld you can In Burgers’ Desert, in a vast
observe sharks, lobsters and hall with 20-m (65-ft) ceilings,
other creatures of the deep. you can wander through a
Archeon The 64-m (210-ft) tower of Het rocky cactus desert with birds
This open-air archaeological Arsenaal gives a fine view of and an oasis. There is also a
park brings the past to life the Westerschelde estuary. dense tropical jungle and
in captiv ating fashion. Visitors a safari park with giraffes,
wander from prehistoric times, rhinoceroses and lions. In the
the Roman period and the Avonturenpark ocean section, you can stand
Hellendoorn
Middle Ages, aided by the on a tropical coral beach and
re-creations of actors. You This place offers a vast range peer through the glass at an
can see how the hunter- of attractions, including the undersea world.
gatherers lived and how Canadian River log-ride with a
farmers tilled their fields. You 12-m (39-ft) drop in a tree trunk,
then explore a Roman town the Sungai Kalimantan rafting- Dolfinarium
complete with bath-house, ride, the Tornado and Rioolrat Frolicking dolphins and seals
tem ple and the atre, followed (underground) rat ride, a always draw large crowds, but
by a medieval city with monorail over a dinosaur park the Dolfinarium does one
better with its Lagune, a large
bay where dolphins, sea lions
and fish live. In Fort Heerewich
you learn how stranded
dolphins are cared for. An
underwater show and a 3D film
provide additional excitement.

Duinrell
Nestled in the sandy woodlands
of the Wassenaar region, this
park has rides such as the
Waterspin, toboggan runs,
a frog roller coaster and a
monorail. In summer there are
elaborate shows such as the
Music Laser Light Show. For the
Suspension bridge through the tropical rainforest in Burgers’ Bush little ones there is a fairytale




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Date 5th March 2013
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ENTER T AINMENT IN THE NE THERLANDS  427


wonderland, a large playground If a day isn’t enough to explore
and numerous kids’ shows. the park, you can stay the night
A big draw is the Tikibad, an in Efteling Hotel.
indoor pool with spectacular
slides, a surf pool and a water
ballet show. Linnaeushof
This playground claims to be
EcoMare
Europe’s largest, with more than
Located on the island of Texel, 350 different pieces of equip-
just a few kilometres away from ment, including a super slide,
the pretty village of de Koog, cable rides, a skate-rail, trampo-
EcoMare is a fascinating sealife Visitors enjoying the splash ride lines, a climbing wall, pedaloes
and marine centre dedicated to in Duinrell and 360-degree swings. In the
exploring the flora and fauna of “spider’s web”, you risk tumbling
Texel. It also offers a glimpse which has a café to unwind in into the water as you climb nets
into the history of the island. and unlimited opportunities to the pirates’ crow’s nest.
Among the exhibits, there are for dune walking. Toddlers have their own
seals and porpoises, and a special playground with a huge
good number of giant turtle sandpit and road village where
and humpback whale skeletons De Efteling they can ride tricycles and toy
that were discovered on the This theme park in Kaatsheuvel aeroplanes. For wet weather
island. The road beyond the draws on the world of fantasy. there’s an indoor playground.
museum leads to the beach, In the fairytale forest you may
bump into Little Red Riding Noordwijk Space Expo
Hood, Snow White or Sleeping
Beauty. The Fata Morgana is a This sprawling display about
simplified take on the Arabian outer space is a treat for all ages.
Nights; here you can view the Some of its rockets and satellites
entire park from a 45-m (148-ft) are the real thing (as is the piece
Flying Temple. of moon rock 4 billion years old),
Extreme thrills are provided but the replicas, such as a model
by the Python, the Pegasus and lunar module, are convincing.
the underground Vogel Rok You can visit a space station and
roller coasters and many other watch multimedia presentations.
Stranded seals recovering their health in rides. It’s worth checking the Children will enjoy the treasure
EcoMare on Texel website for “busy” days. hunt and zero-gravity simulator.
DIRECTORY
Aqua Zoo Friesland Avonturenpark Duinrell Linnaeushof
De Groene Ster 2, 8926 XE Hellendoorn Duinrell 1, 2242 JP Glipperweg 4c, 2104
Leeuwarden. Road Map Luttenbergerweg 22, Wassenaar. Road Map B4. AK Heemstede. Road
D2. Tel 0511-431214. 7447 PB Hellendoorn. Tel 070-5155255. Map B3. Tel 023-5847624.
Open 10am–4pm daily Road Map D3. Tel 0548- Open Theme park: Apr– Open Apr–Sep: 10am–
(longer in summer). 659159. Open call ahead. Oct: 10am–5pm daily 5pm daily (Jun–Aug:
∑ aquazoo.nl ∑ avonturenpark.nl (mid-Jul–Aug to 6pm). to 6pm).
∑ linnaueshof.nl
Archeon Burgers’ Zoo ∑ duinrell.nl
Archeonlaan 1, 2408 ZB Anton van Hooffplein 1, Noordwijk
Alphen a/d Rijn. 6816 SH Arnhem. EcoMare Space Expo
Road Map B4. Road map D4. Tel 026- Ruyslaan 92, 1796 AZ Keplerlaan 3, 2201
Tel 0172-447744. 4424534. Open Apr–Oct: De Koog, Texel. Road AZ Noordwijk.
Open Apr–Oct: 10am– 9am–7pm daily; Nov– Map B2. Tel 0222-317741. Tel 071-3646489.
Open 10am–5pm
5pm Mon, Wed & Sat, Mar: 9am–5pm daily. Open 9:30am–5pm daily. Tue–Sun (also Mon
10am–4pm Tue, Thu & Fri. ∑ burgerszoo.nl ∑ ecomare.nl in school hols).
∑ archeon.nl Dolfinarium De Efteling ∑ spaceexpo.nl
Het Arsenaal Harderwijk Europalaan 1, 5171
Arsenaalplein 7, 4381 BL Strandboulevard Oost 1, KW Kaatsheuvel.
Vlissingen. Road Map A5. 3841 AB Harderwijk. Road Map C4. Tel 0416-
Tel 0118-415400. Road Map C3. Tel 0341- 537777. Open Apr–Oct:
Open Apr–Oct: 10am– 467467 Open mid-Feb– 10am–6pm daily (later in
Jun & Sep–Oct: 10am–
7pm daily; mid-Feb–Mar: 5pm daily; Jul–Aug: summer). Winter Efteling:
timings vary, call ahead. 10am–6pm daily. open around Christmas.
∑ arsenaal.com ∑ dolfinarium.nl ∑ efteling.com



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428  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Sports Holidays

With its abundance of water, the Netherlands lends itself to all
kinds of watersports such as boating, sailing and canoeing;
however, there are also plenty of opportunities for sporting
activities on dry land, whether you want to kick a ball about
or play golf or tennis, or even go riding. Most VVV-gidsen
(see p432) tell you where there are golf courses and tennis
courts in the locality, and they give the addresses of angling
clubs, stables, boatyards, sailing schools and so on.
Ramblers in the Heuvelrug
in Utrecht
are also used by
many people. Canoeing is another popular
You can obtain watersport in the Netherlands.
information on Dozens of round trips in various
sailing and surfing craft orga nized in lakes, rivers
organizations at and the sea are also avail able.
institutions such The local VVV tourist office will
as the Commissie be able to direct you further.
Watersport
Canoeists enjoying themselves on the water Opleidingen
(watersports training Rambling and Cycling
Watersports commission) and the ANWB. Ramblers’ guides and maps can
The favourite places in the Surfers will find plenty to do on be obtained in many places,
Netherlands for watersports are the North Sea and IJsselmeer including the VVV, ANWB and
the Frisian seas, the coastal coast (surfing beaches, equip­ bookshops. The VVV also
lakes, the Plassengebied ment hire), and it is also possible provides information on
(lakelands), the southwest river to surf on many inland waters, walking tours and local events.
delta, and the lakes of the including the Reenwijkse The Er op Uit! booklet published
Vechtplassen, the Maasplassen, Plassen, the Randmeren and by the Dutch Railways contains
the IJsselmeer and, of course, the Frisian lakes. For further rambling routes from one
the North Sea. Everywhere there information on sailing, boating station to another. The majority
are abundant marinas and and windsurfing, ask at the of them are 15 to 20 km (9 to 12
watersports centres, often with Koninklijk Nederlands miles), though some two­day
equipment for hire. The ANWB Watersport Verbond (royal hikes are also described. You will
publishes the Wateralmanakken, watersports association). find route maps at the station
avail able at ANWB and VVV Good places for diving include where the hike begins. Around
offices and in bookshops, the Oosterschelde and 30 long­distance hiking trails
which give details of sailing Grevelingenmeer; for more have been marked out in the
regulations, bridge and lock information apply to the Netherlands. These routes,
opening times, port information Dutch underwater­sports which are at least 100 km (62
and so on. The ANWB/VVV association, the Nederlandse miles) in length, follow mainly
waterkaarten (navigation charts) Onderwatersport Bond. unmetalled tracks. A popular
Sailing
Sailing courses suitable for all ages and experience levels are widely available along the Dutch
coast for practically all types of vessel. Taking lessons at a CWO registered sailing school will
give you an internationally recognized CWO sailing certificate. More experienced sailors
can explore the North Sea, the IJsselmeer (watch out for strong winds), the Waddenzee
(where you have to watch the shallows) or the Westerschelde (which has strong
tidal currents). However, you can
also go for a more relaxing
experience on the Vinkeveense
Plassen lakes. Cruises are also
widely avail able. Hollands
Glorie (tel. 010­4156600)
offers cruises on traditional
sailing craft on waterways
such as the IJssel meer, the
Waddenzee and the Frisian lakes.
Yachting on the Oosterschelde Sailing dinghy





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SPOR T S HOLID A Y S  429


DIRECTORY
Watersports
Commissie Watersport
Opleidingen (CWO)
‘t Breukeleveensemeentje 4,
1231 LM Loosdrecht.
Tel 085-4015966.
Koninklijk Nederlands
Watersport Verbond
Wattbaan 31-49, 3439 ML
Nieuwegein.
Tel 030-7513700.
Nederlandse Onder­
Golfers on the Lauswolt Estate in Friesland watersport Bond
Landjuweel 62,
Fishing
hiking trail is the Pieterpad 3905 PH Veenendaal.
(LAW 9), stretching 480 km Fishing is a popular sport in Tel 0318-559347.
(300 miles) from Pieterburen the Netherlands. In the inland
in Groningen to the Sint- waterways you can angle for Rambling and Cycling
Pietersberg at Maastricht. bream, carp and pike, while Cycletours
Wandelplatform-LAW flatfish and mackerel can be Gyroscoopweg 104, 1042 AX
publishes guides to the routes, caught along the coast and in Amsterdam.
with and without accommo- the sea. Local angling associ- Tel 020-5218400.
dation details. Many natural areas ations will give you
are criss-crossed by footpaths information on when and Fietsvakantiewinkel
and cycle tracks, among them where to fish. Don’t forget to ∑ fietsvkantiewinkel.nl
the Nationaal Park De Hoge obtain a fishing permit (which Koninklijke Wandel Bond
Veluwe (see p343). You can find is compulsory for inland Nederland (KWBN)
out about accessibility of various waters). The permits are PO Box 1020, 6501 BA Nijmegen.
areas and about enjoyable available at VVVs or angling Tel 024-3655575.
routes or excursions at VVV or associations. Sometimes you NTFU
ANWB tourist information offices, also need a permit for a Postbus 326,
at the Staatsbosbeheer (forestry particular lake or river. Along 3900 AH Veenendaal.
commission) (www.staats- the coast, angling trips are Tel 0318-581300.
bosbeheer.nl) or the Vereniging organized on the North Sea
Natuurmonumenten (see p264). and in the Waddenzee. Stichting Landelijk
For details on cycling, see Fietsplatform
pages 448–9. Postbus 846, 3800 AV Amersfoort.
Horse Riding Tel 033-4653656.
There are many stables Wandelplatform­LAW
Golf and Tennis where you can hire ponies Postbus 846, 3800 AV Amersfoort.
The Netherlands has some 160 for pony-trekking. Some Tel 033-4653660.
golfing clubs, all members of stables hire out horses only ∑ wandelnet.nl
the Nederlandse Golf Federatie if you have a riding permit or
(NGF). Many clubs also provide if you are on a guided tour Golf
opportunities for (information is NGF
non-members to available from the Postbus 8585, 3503 RN Utrecht.
play, although SVR). For some Tel 030-2426370.
some may require nature reserves
proof of golfing which allow Fishing
proficiency. Many riding you will
of them also offer Riding on Ameland need to get a Sportvisserij Nederland
training courses. riding permit Postbus 162, 3720 AD Bilthoven.
Golf courses from the organization Tel 030-6058400.
in the Netherlands are in managing the area, and ∑ sportvisserijnederland.nl
dunelands, woodland you will have to keep to the Horse Riding
and polderland. bridleways. Beach riding is an
In many areas you will find unforget table experience, SVR
tennis clubs with outdoor and but keep an eye on the signs, De Beek 125, 3852 PL Ermelo.
indoor courts. Most bungalow because some sections of Tel 088-0224399.
parks have tennis courts for beach – especially in summer ∑ veiligpaardrijden.nl
the use of residents. – are closed to horses.




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Date 15th November 2012
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SURVIVAL


GUIDE





Practical Information 432–441

Travel Information 442–449





















































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432  SUR VIV AL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION


The Netherlands is relatively small and has a dykes means that holidaymakers have plenty
dense road and motorway network, with of opportunity to explore the countryside by
good public transport, so getting around is bicycle (see pp448–9) or by boat (see p447).
quick and easy. Whether you are going to Another option is to take a trip by steam
Amsterdam, the Veluwe, Maastricht or train. The best place to find out what’s
Zandvoort, you can get there from anywhere available in your area – and in the
in the country very quickly by car or by train. country as a whole – is the local VVV
The flat landscape with its many canals and (tourist information) office.
Entertainment
Many VVV-gidsen guides have
an annual review of events
in a particular region or
province. For up-to-date
information on events,
exhibitions, performances
and films, it is worth looking
in the entertainment
supplements issued by
daily papers, or ask at the
local VVV office. Plays,
concerts, special events
and festivals are usually
advertised on billboards or
VVV and ANWB offices, which often share the same premises in cafés. Special regional and
local entertainment guides
Tourist Information and motoring guides, tickets, are also a good source of
The best source of information camping guides and road information; for example,
for tourists is the local or atlases. ANWB members have the monthly Uitkrant tells
regional VVV office. Many access to specialized you what’s on in Amsterdam
towns and places of interest membership information in the way of the performing
have VVV offices where you about various subjects and arts, while the weekly Uitloper
can drop in and ask for advice holiday offers. In many cases is Utrecht’s entertainment
and brochures about the VVV and the guide. These guides are
places of interest, ANWB share the distributed at many sites
local events, same premises. free of charge.
walks, cycle If you are travel- Tickets for concerts and
routes and ANWB logo ling to the events are available not
excursions in the Netherlands only at the box office of
town or region. In addition, from abroad you can obtain the venue itself but also
they can provide maps and information in advance from via the national Ticket
books about other parts of the the Netherlands Board of Service and at VVV offices.
Netherlands. The VVV-gidsen Tourism (NBT) in your Some towns also have their
series in Dutch is very practical, own country. own booking bureau; for
with information and facts instance, in Amsterdam you
about individual provinces Language can book your tickets at the
and regions. AUB (see p150).
At VVVs you can also book The Dutch have been linguists
domestic excursions, hotels, for centuries, and most students
short breaks and theatre tickets learn English, some German and
anywhere in the country. French. English is certainly very
Annual museum cards and CJPs widely and fluently spoken in
are also on sale here. Smaller Amsterdam. However, it’s always
VVV outlets, although providing appreciated if you can handle a
comprehensive information few niceties: greeting a Dutch
about their local area, do not person with “Dag” (“good day”),
provide other services. for example, before asking
ANWB offices in the whether they speak English. The
Netherlands also have a Phrase Book on pages 471–2 is a Revellers at a music festival
selection of cycling, rambling useful place to start. in Amsterdam
The canal with the Old Church Tower of Delft in the background



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Date 5th March 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  433

Opening Hours
In Amsterdam and other major
cities, all main pedestrian Although until recently just
crossings are equipped with about every shop in the
sound for the blind. For country was open from 9am
disabled people travelling by to 6pm, today there is an
train, the NS has issued a pack increasing variety in shop
entitled Gehandicap ten. This opening hours. Many retail
The Museum Card allowing entry to a contains information on Dutch stores and supermarkets are
majority of museums railway stations and what open until 7pm or later. In the
facilities they have, and also cities, shops tend to stay open
Museum Card lists the stations (there are longer. Many towns have a
The Annual Museum Card approximately 150 of them) “shopping evening”
(Museumjaarkaart) has where people in wheelchairs (koopavond) once a week,
quickly risen to huge can get assistance when when most shops remain
popularity. It costs €59.90 for boarding and alighting from open until 9pm: Thursday in
people over the age of 18, trains. Many trains have Amsterdam and The Hague,
and €32.45 for under-18s. It wheelchair-accessible doors, Friday in Utrecht. In an
gives the holder free entry to and most new double-decker increasing number of towns
over 400 museums in the trains have wheelchair- shops open on Sundays at
country. However, you often accessible toilets. If you least once in the month. Many
have to pay a supplement need help, it’s best to shops have half-day closing
for special exhibitions. The contact the Bureau one day a week, usually
card is available at all Assistentieverlening Monday, but varying from
participating museums Gehandicapten at least one region to another.
and at VVVs. It can also be three hours before travelling. Banks are usually open on
ordered online from www. weekdays from 9am to 5pm,
museumkaart.nl. and VVVs are also open on
Mondays to Fridays from 9am
or 10am to 5pm (sometimes
Travellers with on koopavond until 9pm). On
Disabilities Saturdays they close early or
Most public buildings have even all day, and most are
good facilities for travellers closed on Sundays. Some VVVs
with disabilities. Museums, art are closed during the winter.
galleries, cinemas and theatres Many museums are shut
generally are wheelchair- on Mondays, and open from
accessible. Only some 10am to 5pm for the rest of
establishments in very old the week. On Sundays and
buildings are less accessible, public holidays they tend
but there are always staff who to open later. Practically all
are able to lend a hand. If you museums are closed on
require assistance it’s a good Christmas and New Year’s
idea to phone in advance. Day. Open-air museums
Accessibility information for Assistance to travellers with disabilities at and small museums tend
hotels is given on page 390. wheelchair-accessible tourist office to close for the winter.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Netherland Board VVV Utrecht Travellers with
Information of Tourism Domplein 9. Disabilities
PO Box 63470, 2502 JL Tel 030-2360004.
ANWB Main Office The Hague. Bureau Assistentie-
ver lening
Wassenaarseweg 220, Tel 070-370 5705. Entertainment Gehandicapten
∑ holland.com
2596 EC ∑ avg.ns.nl
The Hague. VVV The Hague Ticket Service
Spui 68. Tel 070-3618860. Tel 0900-3001250.
Tel 088-2692222.
VVV Maastricht ∑ ticketmaster.nl
I Amsterdam Kleine Staat 1.
Visitor Centre Tel 043-3252121. Museum Card
Stationsplein 10, 1012 AB VVV Rotterdam Stichting
Amsterdam. Coolsingel 195. Museumjaarkaart
Tel 020-7026000. Tel 010-7900185. ∑ museumkaart.nl




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434  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Tipping
Taxi drivers expect a tip of
around 10 per cent. Although
a service charge is included on
restaurant bills, it is customary
to round the bill up slightly
(see p403).
In hotels you may if you
like leave something for the
chambermaid after a longer
stay, even though it is not
generally the rule.
Flower seeds and bulbs, freely exported items (with certificate)
Public Toilets
Visas and Customs the Customs Helpline There is a limited number of
Travellers from other EU (Douanetelefoon), which gives public conveniences in the
countries can travel freely in precise information on Netherlands. In some cities
and out of the Netherlands customs regulations. Travellers you will find toilets where you
provided they have a valid from outside the Netherlands have to insert money into a
passport or European identity may be able to obtain infor- slot to open the door. Popping
card. For a stay lasting up to mation at their local embassy. into a café to use the toilets
three months, travellers from there is accepted practice in
Australia, New Zealand and Travel Safety Advice the Netherlands; some
North America need only a establishments have an
valid passport. Visitors can get up-to-date travel attendant who should be
EU residents may bring an safety information from the paid a small amount. Large
unlimited quantity of goods Foreign and Commonwealth retail stores and stations also
into the country provided they Office in the UK, the State have toilets, and you generally
are for their personal use. For Department in the US and the need to pay a small fee to use
tobacco and alcohol, the Department of Foreign Affairs these. The latter also have
following quantities are and Trade in Australia. nappy-changing facilities.
considered limits for personal On motorways you will find
use: 800 cigarettes, 400 cigars, Time toilets at all service stations.
1 kg of tobacco, 10 litres of
spirits, 20 litres of liqueurs, 90 Like all its neighbouring Electricity
litres of wine (or 60 litres of countries, the Netherlands
fortified wine) and 110 litres of is on Central European Time, In the Netherlands the electrical
beer. Duty will be charged on which is 1 hour ahead of voltage is 220 volts AC. Dutch
quantities exceeding these Greenwich Mean Time. Day- plugs are of the two-pin type,
specified limits. light saving (1 hour) operates and adapters are available for
For travellers from outside from the end of March to the visitors from countries with
the EU, the limits are 200 end of October. different plugs (for example,
cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 Sydney is 8 hours ahead, Great Britain).
cigars or 250 g of tobacco, Johannesburg 1 hour (the
2 litres of unfortified wine plus same as the Netherlands), Television and Radio
1 litre of spirits or 2 litres of New York is 6 hours behind and
fortified wine or liqueur wine Los Angeles 9 hours behind. The television programmes
or spirits, 50 g of on offer in the Netherlands
perfume, 0.25l of are undergoing a great deal
eau de toilette and of development at the
other items up to a moment. The traditional
value of €175. system was to have a large
Residents of other number of broadcasting
EU countries may no networks, each with their
longer import goods own political or religious
on which VAT has leanings, being given a certain
not been paid. If you amount of air-time on each
are entering or of the three public TV stations
leaving the EU, you (Nederland 1, 2 and 3).
can take non-VAT- More recently, however,
paid goods with commercial television stations
you. More details have emerged to compete
are available from Customers showing their appreciation with a tip with Hilversum (the town




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  435


where the Netherlands’ main evening papers (Het Parool and
networks are based, (see p195). NRC Handel sblad). These tend
As well as national TV to focus on the west of the
networks, the Netherlands has country. Regionally, the more
a number of regional and local popular papers are the
providers, such as Omrop Nieuwsblad van het Noorden,
Fryslân, Omroep Flevoland, Friesch Dagblad, Tubantia,
Omroep Gelderland and the De Gelderlander, Utrechts
Amsterdam local network AT5. Nieuwsblad, Provinciale
In addition, large numbers of Zeeuwsche Courant, Brabants
foreign programmes can be Dagblad and Dagblad De
received on cable TV, the Limburger, which contain
range varying depending on information on local holiday
the local cable company. activities and events. The more
The Netherlands has five famous Dutch weekly news
national radio stations, each magazines include HP/De Tijd,
of them with their own Elsevier and Vrij Nederland.
“personality”: Radio 1 deals The major bookshops in the
mainly with current affairs large cities (as well as the main A selection of national and international
and sport, Radio 2 broadcasts railway stations) sell many newspapers available
light music and various major international newspapers
information progr ammes, and magazines. Embassies and Consulates
Radio 3 rock and pop and If you are visiting from abroad
Radio 4 classical music. 747 Pets and your passport gets lost or
AM is a news channel. stolen, you should report it
If you bring your dog or cat to immediately either to your
the Netherlands from abroad, consulate or embassy. Most
Newspapers and you need to be able to prove embassies are situated in the
Magazines that your pet has been immun- administrative capital, The
The Netherlands has five ized against rabies. This is Hague. A number of countries,
national morning newspa pers shown by a valid pet’s passport including the UK, USA, France,
(De Telegraaf, de Volkskrant, provided by your veterinarian Germany and Italy, also have
Algemeen Dagblad, NRC Next which indicates when the consulates, which tend to be
and Trouw) and two national animal was last vaccinated. located in Amsterdam.
DIRECTORY
Embassies and Germany New Zealand Customs Helpline
Consulates Embassy: Embassy: Eisenhowerlaan
Groot Hertoginnelaan 77N, 2517 KK The Hague. Tel 0800-0143.
Australia 18–20, 2517 EG The Hague. Tel 070-3469324. Open 8am–8pm Mon–
Embassy: Carnegielaan 4, Tel 070-3420600. Thu, 8am–5pm Fri.
2517 KH The Hague. ∑ niederlande.diplo.de Fax 070-3632983. Travel Safety
Tel 070-3108200. Consulate: ∑ nzembassy.com/ Advice
∑ netherlands. Honthorststraat 36–38, netherlands
embassy.gov.au South Africa Australia
1071 DG Amsterdam.
Belgium Tel 020-5747700. Embassy: Wassenaarseweg ∑ dfat.gov.au
Embassy: Johan van United Kingdom 40, 2596 CJ The Hague. ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
Oldenbarneveltlaan 11, Embassy: Tel 070-3924501. United Kingdom
2582 NE The Hague. Lange Voorhout 10, ∑ zuidafrika.nl ∑ gov.uk/foreign-
Tel 070-3123456. travel-advice
2514 ED The Hague. United States
Canada Tel 070-4270427. Embassy: Lange Voorhout United States
Embassy: Sophialaan 7, ∑ ukinnl.fco.gov.uk 102, 2514 EJ The Hague. ∑ travel.state.gov
2514 JP The Hague. Consulate General: Tel 070-3102209.
Tel 070-3111600. Koningslaan 44, ∑ thehague.
∑ canada.nl 1075 AE Amsterdam. usembassy.gov
Tel 020-6764343. Consulate: Museumplein
France
Embassy: Anna Ireland 19, 1071 DJ Amsterdam.
Paulownastraat 76, Embassy: Tel 020-5755309.
2518 BJ The Hague. Scheveningseweg 112, Fax 020-5755310.
Tel 070-3125800. 2584 AE The Hague. ∑ amsterdam.
∑ ambafrance-nl.org Tel 070-3630993/4. usconsulate.gov





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436  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Personal Security and Health Medical Treatment
and Insurance
If you keep to a few basic safety rules, you should have a Minor medical problems
trouble-free stay in the Netherlands. Obviously, it is better can usually be dealt with at
not to carry large amounts of cash or valu ables around, a pharmacy, though the
and not to keep passports, cheques and credit cards prescription of drugs is very
strict. The majority of drugs
together in one place. Visitors from abroad can always are available only on
insure themselves against losses of money and personal prescription. Pharmacies –
items from theft. It is also a good idea to insure yourself which are recognizable by
against medical expenses. For those who do find their snake symbol – are open
themselves in trouble on holiday, the country has efficient on weekdays from 8:30 or
9am to 5:30 or 6pm.
emergency services and facilities.
If the pharmacy is closed, you
will find on the door a list of the
nearest pharmacies that are
Emergencies areas and parks. Women can open. Local newspapers also
The national emergency visit cafés in the evening give details of duty doctors,
number for the police, fire without risk. pharmacies and other health
brigade and ambulance is 112. services in the town or region.
This number must only be In an emergency you can get
dialled in emergencies. For Reporting Crime treatment in hospitals, which
less urgent help, it is best to If you have been the victim are open 24 hours a day.
contact the nearest police of theft or a mugging, Visitors from abroad who will
station, hospital or a local report it to the nearest be carrying prescription drugs
doctor. If your car police station (some with them should ask their
breaks down, smaller municipalities do doctor for a medical passport.
members of the not have their own This is a document stating your
ANWB can call police station). You condition and the medication
out the roadside will need to make you require for it. The passport
assistance service a verbal report can be shown at the customs
of the ANWB describing any loss as evidence that you are
Wegenwacht 24 and, if necessary, bringing the medication in for
hours a day, 7 days injury. Many insurance your personal use.
a week, using the companies require Travellers from European
roadside emergency you to report within Union countries should apply
phones or by 24 hours of the for and take with them a
dialling a toll-free incident taking European Health Insurance
phone number. Dutch police officers place. If your Card (EHIC). You can do this
passport is stolen, you online or at post offices in
should immediately report the UK before you leave. It
Personal Belongings this to your embassy (see p435) will enable you to claim for
and Safety as well as to the police. state health service treatment
It is as true of the Netherlands
as elsewhere in Europe that
opportunity makes the thief.
When in busy shopping
streets or on public transport,
do not leave your wallet in
your back pocket, and if you
need to go to the lavatory
on the train or when in a
restaurant, take your handbag
or wallet with you. Do not Fire engine
leave any valuables in
your car, and always make
sure it has been properly
locked. Large cities,
particularly Amsterdam,
have a big problem with Police car
bicycle theft, so a decent
lock is a good investment.
Muggings are rare, but at
night it is better to avoid unlit Ambulance




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  437


in EU countries. It is also a
good idea to purchase
comprehensive medical
insurance if it is not included
in your travel insurance.

Mosquitoes
Attracted by the canals,
mosquitoes can be a real
irritant. Residents and regular
summer visitors deal with them
in various ways. Burning coils,
ultra-violet tubes, mos quito
nets, repellent sprays and anti-
histamine creams and tablets
are available from large A crowded street festival: a place to be wary of pickpockets
pharmacies and supermarkets.
inform the station first. Small vervoer” (public transport) in
stations keep lost property for the Yellow Pages). Schiphol
Lost Property one day. After that they are Airport has a special lost
If you lose any valuables, taken to the nearest main property number.
you can check at the station, and finally to the
police station to see Central Lost Property Drugs
whether anyone has Office (Centraal Bureau
handed them in. Local Gevonden Voorwerpen) in Although the use of soft drugs
police stations usually Utrecht. By filling in a is officially illegal in the
keep articles that have search form (available at Netherlands, the police will not
been handed in before railway stati ons), you can take action if you have a small
passing them on to describe the items you quantity of hashish or marijuana
the central police Emergency have lost. If you lose in your possession. It is worth
station for the district. room sign something on a bus, remembering that not every
If you lose your passport tram or metro, you restaurant or café owner will take
you must also inform your should contact the office of the kindly to tourists lighting up on
consulate (see p435) or embassy. local or regional transport the premises. People caught with
If you lose something on a train, organization (look for “openbaar hard drugs will be prosecuted.
DIRECTORY
Emergency Hospitals in The Hague: Schiphol – Lost
Numbers Major Cities Bronovo Hospital Property
Bronovolaan 5. Tel 0900-0141/020-
Ambulance, Fire Amsterdam: Tel 070-3124141. 7940800.
Brigade, Police Academisch Medisch MCH Hospital
Tel 112. (for the deaf Centrum Westeinde Roadside
and hard of hearing) Meibergdreef 9. Lijnbaan 32. Assistance
Tel 0800-8112. Tel 020-5669111. Tel 070-3302000. ANWB Wegenwacht
Safety OLVG, Locatie West Rotterdam: Erasmus Tel 088-269-2888
Jan Tooropstraat 164. Medisch Centrum (toll-free).
Police Tel 020-5108911. ‘s-Gravendijkwal 230,
Non-urgent matters: Onze Lieve Vrouwe 3015 CE Rotterdam.
Tel 0900-8844 Gasthuis (OLVG) Tel 010-7040704
(you will be connected Oosterpark 9, 1091 AC Utrecht:
to the nearest police Amsterdam. Academisch Hospital
station). For the deaf and Utrecht
hard of hearing Tel 020-5999111. Heidelberglaan 100.
Tel 0900-1844. Slotervaart Tel 088-7555555.
Police Amsterdam- Hospital
Amstelland Louwesweg 6. Lost Property
Tel 020-5129333.
Head office: Central Lost
Elandsgracht 117, VU Medisch Centrum Property Office
1016 TT Amsterdam. De Boelelaan 1117. ∑ verlorenof
Tel 0900-8844. Tel 020-4444444. gevonden.nl




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438  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Banking and Local Currency

In the Netherlands, cash remains a popular means of
payment, but credit cards and debit cards are now the norm.
Almost all hotels, shops and restaurants accept major credit
cards in payment. Other means of payment are traveller’s
cheques (with identification), and, occasionally, US dollars
(particularly at antique and souvenir shops). In 2002, the
Netherlands began to use the euro. The best place to change
money is at a bank. You can take an unlimited amount of
currency into the Netherlands, and you can withdraw limited
amounts of cash at an ATM. ATMs can be found outside post offices,
banks and GWK offices
Bank Opening Hours These bureaux can still be found card or chipknip/chipper (top-up
Banks are generally open on at the now unguarded border cards available from Dutch
Mondays to Fridays from 9am crossing points, at Amsterdam banks or the Postbank). Most
to 4 or 5pm. Some banks Schiphol Airport and at major payphones (see p440) accept
remain open longer on railway stations. Most GWK credit cards for calls.
koopavond, or shopping bureaux are open daily and All major credit cards
evening, often a Thursday. have extended opening hours. are widely accepted in the
Netherlands and, as elsewhere in
Europe, have superseded many
cash transactions, even though
the Dutch have proved to be a
little reluctant to abandon cash
as compared to, for example, the
British. Almost all hotels and
hostels gladly accept credit card
payments, but the position is
more varied in restaurants. Clarify
the situation before the bill
arrives. It is normal to pay cash in
bars, and taxi drivers would also
not want to receive credit card
payments. One advantage of
using a credit card is that if a
purchase is contested, the credit
GWK (grenswisselkantoor), the Netherlands’ official exchange bureau card company will usually take
up the matter on your behalf.
Changing Money Bank and Credit Cards Depending on the credit card,
Foreign currency can be You can use your bank card to there are generally some
changed at banks, post offices withdraw money at any Dutch attached insurances as well.
and American Express offices. A bank displaying your card’s logo,
small commission is sometimes but usually there is a substantial
charged on these transactions. commission charge. You can The History of
Dutch Currency
In small bureaux de change also use bank cards to withdraw
(often open outside business cash at ATMs 24 hours a day. Before the introduction of the
hours), located throughout the These machines usually also guilder, the Dutch national
major cities and in larger towns, accept Eurocard/MasterCard, currency unit before the euro,
you can exchange money from American Express, Diners Club duiten, stuivers, rijders, schellings
non-Eurozone countries, though and Visa cards. When a foreign and ducats made out of various
often at unfavourable rates. card is inserted, most ATMs will metals were used. Until 1847,
The Netherland’s official offer a choice of languages, and there was a double standard
bureaux de change, GWK so should be simple to use. where the value of the coin was
(grenswisselkantoor), is a ATMs are plentiful and can be equal to the value of the gold or
privatized state enterprise, found outside post offices, silver in it. Silver coins were
which gives reasonable rates banks and GWK offices, and minted until 1967, when nickel
of exchange and charges within main railway stations. or bronze coins were minted.
relatively low commissions, as Shops, restaurants and hotels Gold and silver coins from
well as providing various other post signs stating whether you earlier centuries are now
services for travellers. can pay by credit card, switch valuable collector’s items.




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  439

The Euro members using the euro as sole of architectural structures and
The euro (€) is the common official currency are known as the monuments. The coins, however,
currency of the European Union Eurozone. A number of EU have one side identical (the value
(EU). It went into general members have opted out of side) and one side with an image
circulation on 1 January 2002, joining this common currency. unique to each country. Both
initially for 12 participating Euro notes are identical notes and coins are exchangeable
countries. The Netherlands was throughout the Eurozone in each of the participating
one of those 12 countries. EU countries, each including designs euro countries.
Bank Notes
Euro bank notes have seven denom­
inations. The €5 note (grey in colour) is
the smallest, followed by the €10 note
(pink), €20 note (blue), €50 note
(orange), €100 note (green), €200 note
(yellow) and €500 note (purple).
All notes show the 12 stars of the
European Union. Not all businesses
in the Netherlands accept the €200 €5 note
and €500 notes.



€10 note





€20 note


€50 note

€100 note







€200 note

€500 note





€2 coin €1 coin
50 cents 20 cents 10 cents
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €2 and €1;
50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents and
1 cent. The €2 and €1 coins are silver and gold in
colour; cent coins are gold or bronze. Prices are
rounded off to the nearest 5 cents; the 2­ and
1­cent coins are no longer in use. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent




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440  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Communications Finding the Right

Before 1989, telephone and postal services in the Number
Netherlands were part of the same state-run company, • Directory enquiries for
PTT. This has now been separated into two companies – phone and fax numbers in
KPN Telecom and TNT Post. For some years, Telfort Holland: dial 0900-8008 or
118 (only one number per
public telephones have also been appearing beside the call on either service).
KPN boxes. The Telfort telephones are mostly found at • Directory enquiries for
train stations. phone and fax numbers
abroad: dial 0900-8418, or
visit www.detelefoon gids.nl.
Using the Telephone at post offices, tobacconists, • National or international
You will find the green KPN train stations and department calls through the operator:
dial 0800-0410.
telephone kiosks in the streets, stores, as well as at the GWK, • Collect calls in Holland or
in post offices and outside and come in various abroad: dial 0800-0101.
many railway stations. Most denominations. • National dialling codes are:
KPN telephone kiosks take At train stations you will Australia 61, New Zealand
both phonecards and most often find Telfort phone boxes, 64, South Africa 27, the
major credit cards (the logo painted blue and orange. United Kingdom 44, and
on the telephone will tell These accept Telfort the USA and Canada 1.
you which credit cards are phonecards, available at ticket
accepted). If you use a credit windows and in the Wizzl
card, you need to remove it station shops and also at the Hotspots gives Internet access
from the slot before speaking GWK. Telfort phones also for smart phones; send an SMS
(phonecards are only removed accept coins (10, 20 and 50 to: HOTSPOTS, number 4222
when you have finished your cent, €1 and €2) but do not and you can log on for 15
call), and you have to pay a give change, credit cards minutes for a small fee, which
surcharge of €1.15. In KPN (with a €1.15 surcharge) is charged to your phone.
booths, locals can also use and special kiosk-cards.
their bank or giro card to make Instructions on how to use
phone calls, if these are fitted KPN and Telfort telephones
with a “chipper” or “chipknip” can be found in the booths
(which means you can top in Dutch, English and other
them up). ANWB members west European languages.
can also use KPN telephone
kiosks to call the roadside
assistance patrol (see p445). Mobile Phones
There are no longer any Mobile network coverage
solely coin-operated in the Netherlands is excellent
payphones. KPN phone boxes and works on the 900/1800
accept only KPN phone-cards MHz band. If necessary,
or special kiosk-cards, available contact your service provider
at some train stations. KPN for further information. Colourful selection of Dutch
phonecards can be purchased Check your insurance policy pictorial phonecards
to see if you are covered Phoning Abroad
in case your phone gets
stolen, and keep your From the Netherlands you
network operator’s helpline can direct-dial almost all
number handy. destinations abroad. First
To use your mobile phone you need to dial the
abroad, you may need to international num ber 00,
enable the “roaming” function followed by the country
on it. It is also more expensive number, and then the local
to make and receive calls number without the first digit
while abroad, although (usually a 0), and finally the
roaming charges are due to individual number. Many
be abolished within the EU country codes are listed in
in 2017. A cheaper option telephone booths. Telephone
is often to purchase a local directories have more detailed
SIM card to use in your lists. Directories for the whole
phone. You can only do of the country are available.
Storefront of an Amsterdam this if your handset is “sim Calls made from hotel rooms
telephone shop free” or unlocked. KPN are usually expensive.




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  441


TNT has closed many of
the larger post offices and
opened many smaller
concerns inside shopping
malls and shops.

Sending Mail
Most TNT postboxes have
two slots. The right slot is
for local mail (post codes
are given above the slot),
the left one is for other
destinations. A sign on the
Internet access at OBA (Amsterdam Public Library) box indicates when the mail
is collected (a red sign means
Internet in English about cultural 5pm or 6pm, a blue board
Faster than a letter and events in the city, plus useful means 7pm). There is no
cheaper than a phone call, information on things like Saturday mail collection.
sending and receiving email doctors and dentists. It also Postcards and letters
has never been easier or has information for expats weighing less than 20 g
more convenient. As most living in the city. Time Out (1 oz) cost €0.73 (or one
people in the Netherlands Amsterdam is a monthly “Nederland 1” stamp) to
have either ADSL or a cable listings magazine, also in send to destinations within
connection at home, the English, aimed at tourists the Netherlands; those
number of internet cafés has and available from newsagents sent to European destinations
decreased. Also, more and in the city centre of the capital. cost €1.25, or one
more hotels offer Wi-Fi for Apart from comprehensive “International 1” stamp;
guests with laptops, and listings about what’s on, it also these new “standard” stamps
while this is not always free, offers reviews and features. are widely available in small
rates for internet use have shops, for example those
fallen dramatically over the Postal Services selling postcards. For heavier
last decade. It is better to letters or to post to other
check before using Wi-Fi to Post offices in the Netherlands parts of the world, visit a
avoid ending up paying a can be recognized by the TNT post office – but be prepared
heavy bill. logo. In addition to buying for queues. Most post offices
However, in most tourist stamps, sending telegrams are open from 9am to 5pm
areas you’ll still find plenty of and sending mail, you can also weekdays; some also open
places to read and send email. change money and traveller’s on Saturdays until 1pm.
Most are bars, cafés and coffee cheques, make phone calls Postcards and letters
(smoking) shops, offering PCs and send faxes. Larger post weighing less than 20 g
with internet services. offices also have photocopy (1 oz) to destinations within
Opening hours vary, but cafés services and sell stationery. Europe are sent by priority
are often open late into the Smaller municipalities some- mail. For other international
night. Not all offer headsets, so times have only a sub post mail which you want to
using Skype or other VoIPs to office (in a supermarket, for send priority, pay extra for
make cheap phone calls is not example), providing basic a priority sticker at the post
always possible. services. There are no longer office. Important documents
A recent development is post offices in most villages. may be sent by insured or
modern and trendy coffee registered mail. Urgent
bar franchises, like Coffee mail can be sent by TNT’s
Company and Bagel and Slot for all other Slot for courier service.
Beans, offering Wi-Fi for destinations
customers who bring their local destinations DIRECTORY
laptop. You either buy minutes
or go online for a limited TNT
time for each beverage you Tel 0800-1234 (customer
order, using the code on your service for domestic and
receipt to gain access. international deliveries).
Visitors to Amsterdam will ∑tnt.com/express/nl_nl/
find www.iamsterdam.com site/home.html
worth a look. Financed by
Amsterdam city council, it
offers listings and reviews Dutch TNT postbox




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442  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Almost every major European airport has served by international trains, including the
direct flights to Schiphol, but this modern Thalys, the high-speed train from Paris.
international airport southwest of The country’s comprehensive road
Amsterdam also has direct connections network makes the Netherlands ideal for
with other airports around the world, exploring by car or by public transport
including many in the United States. The (see pp446–7). Many packages and special-
Netherlands also has efficient rail links with interest holidays are on offer, so it’s worth
neighbouring countries. Major stations are shopping around.
By Air
Detroit and Washington,
Schiphol airport handles Delta Air Lines from Atlanta
some 175,000 flights a year and New York (JFK) and
by many international carriers. United Airlines from Newark.
To increase this volume There are many flights a day
further, there are serious from the UK and the Irish
plans to expand the airport. Republic. Low-cost airline
KLM (Royal Dutch Airlines) easyJet serves Amsterdam
and its airline partners have from London, Luton and
flights to Amsterdam from several other British cities.
over 350 cities worldwide. To get the lowest fare,
Northwest Airlines offers generally you must book
Car-hire counter at Schiphol non-stop flights from Boston, well in advance.


Schiphol Airport
D42/D57
Schiphol has only one terminal. The airport signs are colour-coded, D62/D87 D12/D31
with yellow signs indicating transfer desks and gates, green ones C3/C16
amenities such as coffee bars, restaurants and shops. At Schiphol Plaza E2/E13 Lounge Center Lounge South
you can find shops, book hotels, hire a car or buy a railway ticket. See Buy Fly D2/D8
Beneath it are the platforms of Schiphol railway station. From the car duty-free shops
park there are transfer buses to take you to the terminal. The long-stay B1/B16
car park is served by an automatic bus, the Parking Hopper, that takes Bar F2/F9 P 1 P 2
you to the transfer bus. Lounge Centre
Gate E Lounge
West G20 WTC Hilton
See Buy Fly G1/G10
duty-free shops Bar Schiphol East P 12
long-stay car park
P40 Exit
Gate F
A 4 Entrance
AMSTERDAM
Lounge West
A 4
THE HAGUE/
Gate G ROTTERDAM
Departures
Departures Railway tickets
Gate E
To the trains Gate B / C
Arrivals
Gate F
Hotel Gate D
reservations Arrivals
Arrivals
Gate G
Gate B / C
SCHIPHOL
PLAZA
0 metres 100
0 yards 100 Car hire Meeting point
Taxis



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TR A VEL INFORM A TION  443

Getting to and
from Schiphol
Every major city in the
Netherlands can be reached
by train from Schiphol Station.
The journey to Amsterdam
Centraal Station takes 20
minutes. Schiphol is also on
the night-train network of
the Western Netherlands (see
p446). In addition, the airport
has good bus connections
with many towns. KLM runs a
bus ser vice (the KLM Hotel
Shuttle), linking the airport
Planes at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport with some 20 hotels in central
and south Amsterdam. There
Shopping
low See Buy Fly prices; only are also abundant taxis waiting
If you are leaving the country by alcohol and tobacco is sold here at the airport. Ask for a quote
plane, you will find the large See at the same price as in local before getting in, as tourists
Buy Fly shopping centre when shops. Passengers to destinations are often overcharged.
you leave customs control. outside the EU can still purchase
Although travellers to other EU duty-free alcohol and tobacco.
member states are not permitted The centrally located Schiphol
to buy duty-free goods at the Plaza is open to everyone, but
airport (see p434), it is still possible the goods stocked here are not
to find some bargains with the sold at See Buy Fly prices.
Terminal
D42/D57
D62/D87 D12/D31
Entrance
C3/C16
Lounge South
E2/E13
Lounge Center D2/D8
Watch shop at Schiphol
B1/B16
P 2
F2/F9 P 1
Lounge Centre Regional Airports
Gate E Lounge
West G20 WTC Hilton Eindhoven, Maastricht,
Rotterdam and Groningen are
G1/G10
Schiphol East P 12 all served by domestic flights,
long-stay car park with flights between Eind hoven
P40 Exit
Gate F and Schiphol, Maastricht and
A 4 Entrance
AMSTERDAM Schiphol, Groningen and
Lounge West Rotterdam and Eindhoven and
A 4 Rotterdam. There are direct
THE HAGUE/
Gate G ROTTERDAM international flights between
Departures Railway station Rotterdam and Eindhoven and
Departures Manchester and London, and
Gate E See Buy Fly duty- between Maastricht and
Gate B / C free shops Munich, Berlin and London.
Arrivals Airline desks
Gate F
Gate D
Key
Arrivals
Public access areas
Check in/baggage pick-up
Arrivals
Gate G
Gate B / C Passengers only
Customs
SCHIPHOL Passport control
PLAZA
No entry
Meeting point Information screens at Schiphol
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444  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

By Rail
The Netherlands can easily be
reached by train from most
European countries, although
visitors from further afield may
have to change trains several
times en route. Eurostar runs
from London via the Channel
Tunnel to Brussels, where you
change for Amsterdam.
There are direct trains from a
number of European stations.
For example, Brussels, Paris,
Berlin, Zurich, Vienna and
(seasonally) Milan have direct
rail links to Amsterdam Ferries serve Rotterdam, Hook of Holland and IJmuiden
Centraal Station (CS) and
Utrecht CS. From Brussels and travel on the national rail Seaways serves Newcastle
from Antwerp there are trains networks of any three to five and IJmuiden. Other
to Amsterdam all day, bordering countries out of 18 convenient ferry ports for
stopping at Roosendaal, European nations, including visitors from Great Britain are
Rotterdam, The Hague and the Netherlands. Calais and Boulogne (from
Schiphol, including five Folkestone and Dover) in
journeys daily by the Thalys By Coach France. Crossing times by
high-speed train from Paris. ferry range from 16 hours
Many other towns, For travellers from many (Newcastle–IJmuiden) to 75–90
particularly those in the border European countries the minutes (Dover–Calais). Ticket
regions of Belgium and the cheapest way to reach the prices depend on the speed of
Netherlands, can easily be Netherlands is by coach. Most crossing. In summer it is a good
reached by train. Hook of long-distance coaches have idea to book in advance.
Holland is connected by trains toilets and make regular stops.
which connect with ferries In summer in particular there Motoring in
from the UK port of Harwich. are large numbers of
coaches from Holland
other countries The good
Special Tickets
serving a system of
Tourists from other EU whole range of roads in the
countries can purchase towns in the Netherlands
cards in their countries that Netherlands. A Eurolines coach makes all
will entitle them to special Eurolines offers a very parts of the country
reductions. An Interrail card extensive network of coach easy to reach by car. Beware,
for people aged 26 and connections. It has coaches however, in the Randstad
under, along with a slightly running from many European region: you may have to put up
dearer version for the cities to the Netherlands at with traffic jams during the
over-26s, allows travellers to least once per week. Dozens rush hour.
use the entire European rail of points in the Netherlands To drive in the Netherlands
network at a discount. Eurail (depending on the point of you need to have a valid
Selectpass offers unlimited departure and route) are national driving licence. In
served by them. From Brussels addition, if in your own car,
and Antwerp there are coaches you will need to have your
to places such as Breda, vehicle log book and insurance
Rotterdam, The Hague, papers with you.
Utrecht and Amsterdam. Roads in the Netherlands are
divided into three cate gories.
Provincial roads are designated
Ferries
with the letter “N” before the
A number of ferry companies road number, national
serve routes between Britain motorways are designated
and the Netherlands. These with an “A” before the number
include P&O Ferries that sail and international highways
between Hull and Rotterdam/ have the letter “E” before the
Europoort, while Stena Line number. All Dutch motorways
sails between Harwich and are equipped with emergency
The Thalys high-speed train Hook of Holland. DFDS telephones from which




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TR A VEL INFORM A TION  445


motorists can call the ANWB way to buses that are leaving Car Hire
road assistance service (see bus stops. To hire a car you need to be at
p436) if their car breaks down. Finding somewhere to least 21 years old and have a
A non-member can pay for park is often a problem in valid driving licence. Some hire
the ANWB’s services, or the cities. As clamping is companies also require at least
become a temporary ANWB prevalent and theft rife, it is one year’s driving experience.
member. Unless otherwise often best to look for a car The main international car-hire
signposted, the park rather than to try to companies such as Avis,
maximum speed for find street parking. When Budget, Europcar and Hertz
cars in Holland is 120 you enter a car park, take have offices at Schiphol and in
km/h (75 mph) on a ticket from the all major cities. Local car-hire
motorways, 100 km/h machine at the barrier, firms are often substantially
(62 mph) on major and pay at the cheaper. When hiring a car
roads, 80 km/h (50 mph) payment machine without a credit card, you may
on secondary roads and before leaving. Avoid have to pay a hefty deposit.
50 km/h (30 mph) in built- out-of-order street
up areas. At unmarked meters as you could get
junctions, give way to fined or your car could
traffic coming from the be clamped. You may not
left, except for trams, which park on yellow lines, and
always have right of way on yellow broken lines
(except when you are you may not park even
driving along a road to load or unload. If you
which has right of way). stop on a blue line, you
In built-up areas will need to have A bike hooked on a car, an easy way of
motorists must give Emergency phone a parking disc. taking your bike along


DIRECTORY
Schiphol Airport Delta Air Lines Bus Companies By Car
Tel 020-7219128.
Information and ∑ delta-air.com Eurolines Nederland ANWB
Tel 088-2692222.
services Stationsplein 3
Tel 0900-0141 easyJet (Bus station, next to Car Hire Firms
∑ schiphol.nl Tel 0900-0401048 (NL). Amsterdam-Duivendrecht at Schiphol
train station).
∑ easyjet.com AVIS
Regional Airports Tel 0880-761700. Tel 088-2847620.
KLM & KLM ∑ eurolines.nl
Eindhoven Airport Cityhopper Rokin 38A, 1012 KT Budget
Tel 0900-9505. Tel 020-4747747. Amsterdam. Tel 088-2847620.
Europcar
Groningen Airport ∑ klm.nl Tel 0880-761700. Tel 020-3164190.
Eelde Transavia Eurolines (UK) Hertz
Tel 050-3097070 Tel 0900-0737. Tel 08717-818177 (UK). Tel 020-5020240.
∑ nationalexpress.
Maastricht Aachen ∑ transavia.com co.uk
Airport United Airlines
Tel 043-3589898. Tel 020-3469381. Ferries
Rotterdam Airport ∑ united.com DFDS Seaways
Tel 010-4463444. Tel 0871-5229955.
Railways ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk
Airlines
NS International P&O North
Sea Ferries
Aer Lingus Support Tel 0800-1300030.
Tel 0900-2658207. Tel 030-2300023.
∑ poferries.com
∑ aerlingus.com Public transport Stena Line BV
British Airways travel information Stationsweg 10, 3151 HS.
Tel 020-3469389. Tel 0900-9292. Tel 0174-389333.
∑ ba.com ∑ 9292.nl ∑ stenaline.co.uk





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446  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Public Transport

The Netherlands has a comprehensive and efficient
public transport system. Major cities can be easily
reached by train, while towns and villages are served
by local buses as well as a number of trains. The
Randstad in particular gets fairly snarled up in the Dieren–Apeldoorn steam train
morning and evening rush hour. If you need to travel
at that time, the best thing to do is to leave the car Steam Trains
and take the train. There are many places in the
Netherlands where you can
take a ride in a steam train.
the rear door is for boarding There is, for example, the
only. Tram stops are normally 22-km (14-mile) Dieren–
announced, but if you aren’t Apeldoorn line, the 16-km
sure where to get off, you can (10-mile) Kerkrade–Schin
always ask the driver to call out op Geul, (the “million line”,
the stop. see p372), the 15.5-km (9.5-
mile) Goes–Oudelande,
around the Valkenburgse
By Train Meer lake and through
Long-distance buses cover an expanding the Hoogoventerrein at
number of routes The Dutch national railway IJmuiden (21 km/13 miles,
company, Nederlandse
By Bus Spoorwegen, or simply NS, departing from Beverwijk
The Netherlands has a good runs a busy network which is Station, see p192). A steam
train runs the 20 km
network of local buses and considered one of the best in (12 miles) between Hoorn
inter-city coaches. Booklets the world. Trains are clean and and Medemblik in summer
are available giving detailed generally run on time, and (see p182). Check with the VVV,
information on routes, time- tickets are reasonably priced. as schedules vary.
tables and fares, although it is Timetables are displayed on
also possible to get information yellow boards in stations. Rail
from Openbaar Vervoer tickets are available at ticket transport are also available.
Reisinformatie (0900-9292). offices, Wizzl station shops For information it is best to
Operated by a number of and from ticket machines in ask at ticket offices, or
companies, long-distance buses stations, or, with a substantial telephone 0900-9292.
are very comfortable. They supplement, from the Many railways in Friesland,
usually follow direct routes conductor aboard the train. Groningen and the Achterhoek
between places and stop less Dutch Railways has a wide are run by NordNed and Syntus.
frequently than local buses variety of fare discounts on offer, NS cards are also valid on
(streek bussen). In the evenings including Railrunner tickets for these lines. Night trains run on
they do not operate as late as children, and other offers for the Utrecht CS-Amsterdam
the local buses. The timetables people regularly using the same CS-Schiphol-Leiden Centraal-
for buses are based on the route. Combined season tickets The Hague CS-Delft-Rotterdam
railway timetable. Long-distance for the train and local or urban CS lines.
buses are green and have an
information display.
By Tram
There are trams in Amsterdam,
Rotterdam, Utrecht and The
Hague. They generally run from
6am to midnight. On Sundays
they start one or one-and-a-half
hours later. Tram stops display
the name of the stop, the tram
numbers that stop there and
show the other stops on the
route. Tram shelters display
maps of the tram network.
You can board or alight from
any door, unless there is a
conductor on the tram, when An NS double-decker train speeding past tulip fields




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TR A VEL INFORM A TION  447

Metro the cost of each trip from the Taxis
Amsterdam and Rotterdam available credit. OV-chipkaarts are If you need a taxi, the best
are the only towns in the also available for train journeys. thing is to either go to a taxi-
Netherlands with a metro. The ticketing system works stand or phone a Taxicentrale:
Both networks are fairly via the OV-chipkaart (www. numbers can be found in the
extensive. Amsterdam’s metro wov-chipkaart.nl). They are of phone directory and in the
has three lines, two of which two types: paper and plastic. Yellow Pages. It is less common
begin at the Centraal Station, Paper OV-chipkaarts are best to hail a taxi in the
and the third at Station used for shorter journeys. street, although it
Sloterdijk. They go as far as These can be can be done.
Gaasperplas and Gein. From purchased Taxis are
Centraal Station there is also a from most metered and
suburban tram to Amstelveen. tram and after an initial
The Rotterdam metro system bus drivers, charge, the fare
comprises two lines which many VVVs A treintaxi depends on the
cross one another, the north– and a few hotels. distance travelled
south line going from Centraal They need to be checked and the time. Taxis cost more
Station to Spijkenisse, and against an electronic reader at night.
the west–east line from when you enter and leave
Marconiplein to Capelle, the public transport system. Rail Taxis
with a branch to Ommoord- For longer stays, purchasing
Zevenkamp. The first metro a rechargeable, plastic Around 100 Dutch railway
leaves the terminus at around OV-chipkaart is advisable. stations operate a rail taxi, or
6am (around 7:45am on It comes in two main types, treintaxi, service which enables
Sundays), and the last train personalized and anonymous you to travel cheaply to a
arrives at its destination at and both cost €7.50. Valid for destination in the same or
approximately 0:15 or 0:30am. five years, these are sold at nearby district. The price of a
train and bus stations. single ticket starts from €6 and
Also, please note that the is valid whatever the length of
plastic (but not paper) the journey. The taxi will also
OV-chipkaart can also be take other passengers to their
used on the NS train network. destinations, and so will usually
In order to validate a journey, take a roundabout route.
users need to hold the Rail taxis operate from
OV-chipkaart in front of 7am (8am on Sundays and
OV-chipkaart, a smartcard required for the grey card reader at metro public holidays) until just
travelling on public transport or platform gates and on after the arrival of the last train.
boarding a bus or tram; You can book by phoning
Tram, Bus, Metro and remember to swipe again 0900-TRE INTAXI/8734682 or
Train Tickets on disembarking, or you will via the Reisplanner Xtra travel
To travel on buses, trams and be charged the full fare to planner app. At the station,
metro systems throughout the the terminus. Children under book by pressing the button on
Netherlands you must have an 4 travel free; seniors and the blue-yellow column. Inform-
OV-chipkaart: a “smartcard” that 4–11-year-olds can claim a ation on places covered by the
works much like a pay-as-you- discount if they buy their cards ser vice is given in the NS leaflet
go phone card, deducting in advance. Treintaxi-stations op een rijtje.
Special Outings
The Canal Bus is an excellent way to get around Amsterdam’s waterways. They operate on
three circular routes: the green route, the red route and the blue route, which meet at various
points, including the jetty outside Centraal Station
and on the Singelgracht between the Rijksmuseum
and Leidseplein. There are 17 stops in all and
together they provide easy access to most major
sights. During high season, boats leave from
opposite Centraal Station every half an hour
between 9:30am and 6pm. A day ticket for all
three routes, which costs €19 per adult, and
€9.50 for children (aged 4–12 years), allows
you to hop on and off as many times as you
like. Another reasonable offer is the 24-hour
ticket, which costs just €2.50 more. The Canal Bus in Amsterdam





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448  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Cycling

The flat landscape of the Netherlands makes it a boon for
cyclists. At least 85 per cent of the population has a bicycle,
and there is no shortage of maps and guidebooks with
interesting cycling routes. You can use the LF-routes (see
p449) to plan your own daytrip or cycling holiday. Another
possibility is to take part in an organized cycle tour, where
you are awarded a souvenir medal at the end.
Guides showing cycling routes
Road Safety some 100 railway stations with can hire bicycles. The VVV and
The large number of cycle paths a Rijwielshop or Fietspoint. Cycle ANWB can also direct you to
and cycle lanes, often equipped hire usually costs around €7.50 cycle hire shops.
with traffic lights for cyclists, per day. Cycle hire shops also
make cycling in the Netherlands offer weekly tariffs that work
a safe and enjoyable activity. out relatively cheaper. Many of Security
However, it’s worth keeping a them require a deposit, which Even if your bicycle is
look-out for mopeds, which can range from €30 to €145, equipped with a rear-wheel
frequently make use of cycle and often want proof of lock, it’s a good idea – par-
paths. Cycling in the peaceful identity. Tandems are also ticularly in the big cities – to
countryside and cycling in sometimes available, though secure your bicycle to a post
the busy city are two quite they cost more, and their lack or a bicycle rack by the front
separate experiences. In of manoeuvrability does not wheel. Cycle hire shops will
Amsterdam particularly, the make them very suitable for often provide you with a lock
traffic is fairly chaotic – mostly use in city traffic. for the bike, especially in cities
because of the large number where bicycle theft is a
of cyclists, who tend to ignore problem. At many rail way
the traffic regulations. If you stations you can leave your
are unaccustomed to this, it’s bicycle in a secure bicycle
worth taking extra care. Front park for around €1. Do
and rear lights, a rear reflector Sign for the Rijwiel cycle hire shop, found not leave any luggage on
and reflective strips or reflective at nearly 100 railway stations your bicycle if you park it
circles are compulsory at night. somewhere, not even in a
Many cyclists ride without this If you are planning to make a guarded bicycle park.
equipment, often leaving them train journey and hire a cycle
almost invisible. from your destination, it is Bicycles and Public
worth buying a huurfietskaartje
(cycle hire ticket) when setting Transport
Cycle Hire out. It is a good idea to reserve For an additional payment you
There are plenty of cycle hire the bicycle by telephone in can take your bicycle on the
shops in the Netherlands. You advance. The NS publishes a train, except during rush hours
can either go to private cycle special pamphlet, Fiets en Trein, (Sep–Jun: 6:30–9am and 4:30–
hire places or hire a bike from which lists stations where you 6pm Mon–Fri). To do this, you
need to buy a Dagkaart fiets
(bike ticket) from a train or
metro station in addition to
your ordinary train ticket.
These tickets cost €6 and
are valid for the whole day
regardless of the length of
your journey. Places for bi-
cycles on trains are marked
with stickers on the carriage.
Folding cycles, when folded,
may be taken on trains free
of charge. Bicycles may be
taken on metros and
suburban (fast) trams,
provided that you have a
bike ticket, but they are
not allowed on bus es
An organized cycling tour on the Zaanse Schans and city trams.




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