(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - The Netherlands

GELDERLAND  349


clock in the j Zaltbommel
Grote Kerk was Road Map C4. * 11,000. £ @ n
a gift from Markt 15 (0418-518177). ( Tue, Sat.
South Africa.
Even today, Bommel, as its inhabitants say, is
the “papklok” bell, more than 1,000 years old. During
which is used to the 80 Years War (see p53), it was
announce the an important mainstay of the
closing of the Republiek der Zeven Verenigde
town gates, is Nederlanden (Republic of the
tolled each and Seven United Netherlands). The
every evening at town is surrounded by two well-
Dyke house on the Linge 10 o’clock. preserved sets of walls, which
have now been laid out as a park.
decorated with fruit winds E Museum Elisabeth Weeshuis Within the town walls, the first
through the streets of the town. Herenstraat 29. Tel 0345-513912. building worth mentioning is the
Tiel is also renowned for its Open Apr–Oct: 1–5pm Tue–Fri, 15th-century St Maartenskerk,
tinsmith industry. 2–5pm Sat & Sun. & whose low towers give the town
its distinctive skyline. The interior
Environs of the church is worth a look.
Asperen is a peaceful little town h Buren Another worthwhile stop is at
on the River Linge. On the Road Map C4. * 1,800. @ the house of the Gelderland
Lingedijk is Fort Asperen, which n Markt 1 (0344-571922). ( Fri. commander-in-chief Maarten
is part of the Nieuwe Hollandse van Rossum (1478–1555), who
Waterlinie. Farther upstream is On the main road between Tiel is known for plundering The
the little town of Acquoy, with and Culemborg is Buren. This little Hague in 1528. The house is
its crooked 15th-century tower. town is known for its historic links now an intimate museum with
A Lady Pisa is buried in the with the House of Orange, and the a large collection of drawings
churchyard, but there is no entire town has been listed. One of and prints from the region; it
connection to the Leaning the most beautiful houses is the also hosts visiting exhibitions.
Tower in Italy. Koninklijk Weeshuis (Royal
Orphanage), which was built in E Maarten van Rossummuseum
1613 by Maria of Orange. The Late Nonnenstraat 5. Tel 0418-512617.
g Culemborg Gothic Lambertuskerk is also Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm
worth seeing. Tue–Sun. &
Road Map C4. * 24,000. £ @
n Camping de Hogekuil, Achterweg
4 (0345-515701). ( Tue.
The old “Driestadje” (triple
town) of Culemborg, formerly
consisting of three walled
towns, is picturesquely situated
on the River Lek. It is a great
place to wander around. If you
enter the former fortress
through the old Binnenpoort
gate, you’ll reach the Markt.
Here is the Late Gothic
Stadhuis (town hall), built by
Flemish masterbuilder
Rombout Keldermans for
Vrouwe Elisabeth van
Culemborg (1475–1555). Her
estate was sufficient to finance
the Elisabeth Weeshuis (1560),
which is now operated as a
historical museum.
Other well-preserved
buildings in Culemborg are
the Huize de Fonteyn in the
Achterstraat and the house
where Jan van Riebeeck, who
founded Cape Town, South
Africa, was born. The large The house of Maarten van Rossum in Nonnenstraat, Zaltbommel




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SOUTHERN


NETHERLANDS





Introducing the Southern
Netherlands 352–357
North Brabant 358–369
Limburg 370–385


















































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352  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS

Southern Netherlands
at a Glance

South of Holland’s great rivers lie the provinces of North
Brabant and Limburg, where industry and countryside
coexist in harmony, though the coal fields are long gone.
As with the rest of the Netherlands, eating and drinking
well are held in high regard here. Visitors to the Southern
Netherlands will also find cities with historical centres, such
as Den Bosch, Breda, Thorn and Maastricht; the beautiful
countryside of Kempen, Peel and the hills of Zuid Limburg;
thriving modern towns; and peaceful rural villages.

The Gothic Church of Sint Jan
(see pp364–65) in Den Bosch
was started in the late 14th
century and completed
in the 1500s. Oss
Heusden
Gennep
’s-Hertogenbosch
Oosterhout
Uden
Breda Boxtel
Tilburg
Roosendaal Venray
NORTH BRABANT
Bergen
op Zoom (See pp358–69) Nuenen Helmond
Zundert
Eindhoven
Valkenswaard Venlo
Tegelen
The construction of the Grote
or Onze Lieve Vrouwe-kerk Weert
LIMBURG
(Church of Our Lady) (see p366–7) (See pp370–85)
in Breda began in 1410. The
church, which is finished in
the Brabant Gothic style, has 0 kilometres 20 Roermond
a 97-m (318-ft) tower, offering a 0 miles 20
stunning view over the town and Maasbracht
the surrounding countryside.


Sittard
The Van Abbemuseum
(see p368) in Eindhoven Geleen
has undergone extensive
renovation. Architect Abel
Cahen has preser ved the Heerlen
old builing whi le creating Maastricht
light-filled spaces in the
angular, slanting new
wing. A large collection Eijsden
of modern art, including
video and other
installations, is on display.
Revellers take part in carnival celebrations in Den Bosch, North Brabant



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INTRODUCING THE SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS  353

The Kasteeltuinen,
the gardens of the
17th-century Castle
Arcen (see p374), in the
town of the same
name on the River
Maas, have a lovely
rose garden, as well as
subtropical gardens, a
forest of Scots pines
and a golf course.










Oss
Heusden
Gennep
’s-Hertogenbosch
Oosterhout
Uden
Breda Boxtel
Tilburg
Roosendaal Venray
NORTH BRABANT
Bergen
op Zoom (See pp358–69) Nuenen Helmond The Bonnefantenmuseum
(see pp378–9) in Maastricht is housed in a
Zundert striking building designed by the Italian
Eindhoven architect Aldo Rossi. The collections of
old works of art and contemporary
Valkenswaard Venlo international art are impressive.
Tegelen

Weert LIMBURG
(See pp370–85)
The Van
Abbemuseum Roermond
Maasbracht




Sittard
Geleen

Heerlen
Maastricht
The route through the Heuvelland
(see pp384–85) passes among hills and dales
Eijsden and by meandering rivers, their banks dotted
with old castles. Outstanding examples of
these are the 17th-century Kasteel Eijsden
and Kasteel Schaloen in Valkenburg.




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354  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS


Catholicism and Devotion

One of the main reasons for the differences between
Holland’s southern and northern provinces is the
marked presence of Catholicism in the south, even
in these secular times. Religious imagery is a common
sight here. The churches in the Brabant Gothic or Neo-
Gothic style are decorated flamboyantly and many
host traditional processions throughout the year.

Religious images, usually of
The Maria the Madonna and Child, are
Magdalena Chapel a common roadside sight in
(1695) in Gemert is Limburg. This one is set into the
also known as the façade of a house in Mechelen.
Spijkerkapelleke
(“nail chapel”)
because people
made offerings of
nails here in the
hopes of having
their skin disorders
cured. Every 22 July,
which is the day of
Mary Magdalene,
an open-air mass
is held here.




Decorative
carving







Candles
abound
around
images of
St Mary.




Detail from the retable of the Holy Family
in the Basilica of the Holy Sacrament in
Meerssen, Limburg. It depicts Mary, Joseph
and the infant Jesus fleeing to Egypt. This
fine altar is richly decorated with scenes
from the life of the Holy Family. The Holy
Sacrament is honoured in the church. The This tomb in the Late Romanesque/Early Gothic
host is kept in the Unique Sacramentstoren Onze-Lieve-Vrouwemunsterkerk (Minster Church
(sacrament tower) in the choir. The church of Our Lady) in Roermond dates from the 13th
itself is an example of Maasland Gothic and century. Inside the tomb lies Count Gerard van
part of it (the nave and the choir) dates from Gelre and his wife Margaretha van Brabant. At the
as far back as the 14th century. time, Roermond was part of the duchy of Gelre.





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INTRODUCING THE SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS  355



St Anna-te-Drieën
– the trinity of
Anna, her daughter The Basiliek van de HH
Mary and the Agatha en Barbara
infant Jesus – is a (Basilica of SS Agatha and
familiar image in Barbara) in Oudenbosch is
religious art. This a copy of St Peter and
statue from St John of the Laterans in
Mechelen Rome. The picture on the
incorporates the right shows the façade.
town’s coat The interior of the church
of arms. is richly decorated,
though appearances
are deceptive: what
Statue of St Mary
in the Onder de appears to be marble is
Linden Chapel in actually painted wood.
Thorn (Limburg).
Onder De Linden Chapel in Thorn
The Onder de Linden Chapel, located just
outside the town of Thorn in Limburg, was
founded in 1673 by Clara Elisabeth van
Manderscheidt-Blankenheim, who lies buried
in the parish church of Thorn. This chapel,
dedicated to St Mary, is opulently decorated
with carvings and Baroque paintings
depicting scenes of the life of the Virgin Mary.
Shown in the picture on the left is the Onze-
Lieve-Vrouwebeeld (statue of Our Lady).
St Mary’s Chapel is also called the Loretokapel,
after the Holy House of Nazareth in the Italian
town of Loreto, on which the earlier
17th-century part of the chapel is based.
The 15th-century
tower of the
Michielskerk is all
that remains of the
North Brabant Sint-
Michielsgestel. The
medieval church
was built in honour
of the archangel
Michael. The village,
also named after the
saint, grew up
around the church.
Neglect and the
elements have
meant that the
church building itself
has been levelled to
the ground, but the
solid tower has
withstood the ages.
The church of Rolduc, a former canon’s
abbey at Kerkrade which today houses
a Catholic middle school and a training
school for priests, has a fine altar depicting
the Lamb of God. The Lamb of God
represents Christ, who was sacrificed in
the same way as a lamb, in order to take
away the sins of the world.





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356  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS


Carnival

Every year in February, in the week before Ash Wednesday,
carnival breaks out in the towns south of the great rivers.
While life goes on as usual in the north of the country,
people in the south celebrate this old tradition, which is
also honoured in other parts of the Catholic world. A
festive mood abounds everywhere, with the best-known
celebrations being held in Den Bosch, Bergen op Zoom
and Maastricht. For days on end, there is drinking, singing
and dancing all over Brabant and Limburg. Carnavalsstokken (carnival
rods) are brightly decorated.
They are carried by the Prince of
Music plays an the Carnival when he passes
important role at through the streets on his float.
carnival time. Every year,
the associations choose
the official carnival
anthem that will be
played over and over
again. The Zaate
Herremienekes of
Maastricht (pictured left)
are among the better-
known bands. Dozens
of its members
march through the
streets blaring out
enthusiastically; what
their music may lack in
elegance is made up
for by their verve. On
Shrove Tuesday they
compete in the
Herremienekes
competition.






Carnival – Putting Your Worries Aside
The carnival season officially starts on
11 November – the eleventh of the eleventh –
or “day of fools”, when the Council of Eleven
names the Prince of the Carnival. From then on,
the municipalities are busy with preparations,
and on the Sunday (in many places now on the
Friday) before Ash Wednesday, the festivities
begin. Wild celebrations are held throughout
North Brabant and Limburg, and most public
institutions are closed. Long processions with
floats parade through the towns. People dress
up festively: the more colourful and exuberant
the costume, the better. “Dansmarietjes”
(dancing girls) accompany the floats in their
colourful costumes, and the mood everywhere
is upbeat. All the merriment comes to an end
Although in high spirits, his question is profound (the sign on after Shrove Tuesday, the climax of the carnival.
the pram reads, “Where are we going?”)





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INTRODUCING THE SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS  357



Carnival Floats
At carnival time, long processions with extravagantly
decorated floats wind their way through the main
streets of towns and villages. Months of preparation
often go into creating the floats, and secrecy prevails
during their preparation. The decoration of the
float is usually on an upbeat and amusing theme,
but current events are sometimes illustrated in
imaginative ways. When leading
politicians are featured, they
are more often than
not caricatured
mercilessly, and
Refreshments both indoors and outdoors at social ills are
carnival time exposed, often
using costumed
participants in
tableaux vivants.





A festive float








The Raad van Elf (Council
of Eleven) is the central
office of the local carnival
organization. Every year, the
council appoints a Prince of
the Carnival, who holds
power in a municipality on
the days of the carnival.
The council’s ritual number
is 11, which is considered
the number of fools. From
Characteristic 11 November onwards,
Prince carnival cap with the Raad van Elf is busy
Carnival’s feather preparing carnival events.
adjutant At the lively meetings,
many a beer is drunk to a
Prince call of “Alaaf!” (“Eleven!”).
Carnival
Silly clothes are
mandatory at carnival
time. In earlier times it
was customary to put on
masks, whereas today the
trend is to dress up in as
unusual a way as possible.
The northerners’ belief
that it is enough to put
on a peasant’s smock to
Colourful fool be properly dressed is a
misconception.





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SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS  359

NORTH

BRABANT


The Netherland’s second-largest province is
distinguished primarily by its natural beauty. In the
south and southeast are the relatively high elevations of
Kempen and the Peel; in the northwest, the watery Biesbosch. Here, arms
of the Waal and Maas rivers converge through a wilderness of sandbanks.
North Brabant has been inhabited by and founded towns such as Breda and
humans since the earliest times. The Celts ’s-Hertogenbosch. The Duchy flourished
settled here in the 7th century BC and until the 16th century, when the 80 Years
stayed for many centuries. They were War left the south of Brabant under
defeated by Julius Caesar (see pp46–7), Spanish rule and the north under the
who describes them as the “Belgae” in his rule of the Netherlands.
writings. The Rhine became the northern Although North Brabant has its fair share
frontier of the Roman Empire and Roman of commerce and industry, and Eindhoven
remains have been found in the area. is a major manufacturing centre, tourism
When the Romans left, the Franks took has become increasingly important. The
charge of Toxandria, as the region was region’s colourful history is evident from
known in those days. Under Charlemagne the medieval buildings and bastions in
(see p48), this region grew in importance many of the towns, and the castles dotted
as new towns expanded at points along around the countryside, with a range of
trade routes, and in the 12th century fine exhibits in churches and museums.
became part of the Duchy of Brabant. The For younger visitors the highlight is the
Dukes of Brabant, among them Godfried fairytale theme park De Efteling at
III and Henry I, expanded their territory Kaatsheuvel, northeast of Breda.



























Het Grote Peel, an area of outstanding natural beauty in North Brabant
The beautiful ceiling of the basilica in Oudenbosch



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360  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring North Brabant

North Brabant’s rich historic past and unspoiled
countryside have given the province its unique
character. The centres of ’s-Hertogenbosch and Breda
and the picturesque fortified towns of Heusden and
Willemstad are of great historical interest. The beautiful
natural areas of the Loonse and Drunense dunes, Peel,
Kempen and Biesbosch areas provide opportunities
for various tours. Van Abbemuseum in Eindhoven, De
Wieber in Deurne and the many other museums in the
region offer a great deal of cultural interest. De Efteling
is one of Europe’s best-known theme parks.
The Markiezenhof in Bergen op Zoom,
dating from 1511
Sights at a Glance
1 ’s-Hertogenbosch pp362–6 0 Nuene
2 Heusden q Helmond
3 Tilburg w Deurne Werkendam Bergse Maas
Megen
4 Breda e Gemert Woudrichem
5 Oudenbosch
6 Willemstad Grave
7 Bergen op Zoom Nationaal Oss Cuijck
Park de
8 Eindhoven Biesbosch HEUSDEN
9 Heeze Rosmalen Heesch Zeeland
Holla nds Diep Raamsdonksveer Vlijmen
Moerdijk
Made ’s-HERTOGENBOSCH
WILLEMSTAD Waalwijk Mill
Vught Uden
Zevenbergen Kaatsheuvel St-Michielsgestel Boxmeer
Oosterhout
Dinteloord Dongen Schijndel
Udenhout Boxtel Veghel Boekel
OUDENBOSCH Rijen Dommel Zuid-Willemsvaart Kanaal
Steenbergen BREDA Oisterwijk Overloon
Etten-Leur TILBURG St-Oedenrode GEMERT Rips
Halsteren Roosendaal NOORD- BRABANT Beek-en-Donk
Son
Goirle Best
BERGEN OP ZOOM Alphen Hilvarenbeek HELMOND
Zundert
NUENEN
DEURNE
Mierlo
Baarle-Nassau
K e m p e n D e P e e l
Hoogerheide EINDHOVEN Geldrop
Veldhoven Asten
Aalst
Bladel HEEZE Someren
Valkenswaard
Reusel Leende
Maarheeze
Key Bergeyk
Motorway Budel
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
Drifting sands and conifers in the Loonse and the International border
Drunense dunes, east of Kaatsheuvel
For map symbols see back flap


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NOR TH BR ABANT  361

Getting Around
North Brabant has an excellent transport
infrastructure. All the larger towns, as well as
many smaller towns and villages, can be
reached easily by train. There is an extensive
network of long-distance buses, which will
take you to even the smallest village. The
province can be explored by car with great
ease thanks to its dense motorway network,
which includes the A2 and the A58, as well as
its many good major roads. Areas of natural
beauty, such as the Peel and Kempen, are
ideal countryside for cycling. The 14th-century Kasteel Heeswijk, rebuilt numerous times
during its lifetime

0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
Bergse Maas
Werkendam Megen
Woudrichem

Grave
Nationaal Oss
Park de Cuijck
Biesbosch HEUSDEN
Rosmalen Heesch
Zeeland
Holla nds Diep Raamsdonksveer Vlijmen
Moerdijk
Made ’s-HERTOGENBOSCH
WILLEMSTAD Waalwijk Mill
Vught Uden
Zevenbergen Kaatsheuvel St-Michielsgestel Boxmeer
Oosterhout
Dinteloord Dongen Schijndel
Udenhout Boxtel Veghel Boekel
OUDENBOSCH Rijen Dommel Zuid-Willemsvaart Kanaal
Steenbergen BREDA Oisterwijk Overloon
Etten-Leur TILBURG St-Oedenrode GEMERT Rips
Halsteren Roosendaal NOORD- BRABANT Beek-en-Donk
Son
Goirle Best
BERGEN OP ZOOM Alphen Hilvarenbeek HELMOND
Zundert
NUENEN
DEURNE
Mierlo
Baarle-Nassau
K e m p e n D e P e e l
Hoogerheide EINDHOVEN Geldrop
Veldhoven Asten
Aalst
Bladel HEEZE Someren
Valkenswaard
Reusel Leende
Maarheeze
Bergeyk
Budel




Sheep on the Strabrechtse Heide, near Heeze
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and pp414–15


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362  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS

1 Street-by-Street:
’s-Hertogenbosch

In 1185, Henry I of Brabant founded the town Stone Plaque with Swan
of ’s-Hertogenbosch. The strategically Such plaques are a common
positioned town – usually called Den Bosch – sight in the city centre.
grew rapidly. From the 16th century,
however, its prosperity waned, when the . R
States General ignored Brabant and T S
chose to favour other regions. K T
Its prestige rose again after 2 D E K O R E N S T R . R
1815, when it became the 1 S T E A M
capital of North Brabant. K O R E N S T R .
Today, it is a vibrant, D
lively town. K O R E N B R U G S T R . O D E P E N
K
R N S M
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U
I E A
S U R
S W K
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De Moriaan
The medieval building known
as De Moriaan, with its stepped
gable, is the town’s oldest
building. It now houses the 0 metres 100
town’s tourist office. 0 yards 100
. Binnen-Dieze
The Binnen-Dieze, the city’s inner . Sint Jan
canal, runs partly underground. It is The flying buttresses of the Sint Jan
possible to make a spectacular round Church (see pp364–5) are decorated
trip along the restored town walls. with a variety of figures.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and pp414–15
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’ S-HER T OGENBOSCH  363

Statue of Jeroen
(Hieronymus) Bosch The painter VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Jeroen Bosch (c.1450/1460–
1516), is the city’s most Practical Information
renowned figure. Map C4. * 127,000. n Markt 77
(0900-1122334). ( 8:30am–
Medieval Well 1:30pm Wed & Sat. _ Indoor
Restored to its former glory, Brabant (equestrian competition):
this well is located in the Markt. Feb/Mar; jazz festival: Whitsun.
Transport
.
R £ ‘s-Hertogenbosch CS,
T
S ‘s-Hertogenbosh Oost.
T @ Stationsplein.
K
R
A H I N T H A M E R S T R A A T
M
P M A R K T
E N
S M
A
R
K K E R K S T R A AT
T
B R O E D E R S S T R A A T K O L P E R S T R A AT

F O N T E I N S T R A A T




R I D D E R S T R A AT
A C H T E R H E T S TA D H U I S V E R W E R S S T R A A T Stadhuis
The Neo-Classical town hall, built in 1670,
stands in the Markt. The figures of horsemen
beneath the tympanum spring to action
twice every hour.



W A T E R S T R A A T









Zwanenbroedershuis
The Zwanen brothers (14th
century) did much charity
work but are best known
as gourmands. Their house
is now a museum.

Noordbrabants Museum
The North Brabant museum
is housed in the monumental Key
former government building. Recommended route




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364  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS

Sint Jan

There was a church of Sint Jan (St John) in Den
Bosch as early as the beginning of the 13th
century, although nothing of the original
Romanesque church exists today. The present-
day Gothic church was built from the late 14th
to the 16th century. The majestic cathedral
survived the Iconoclastic Riots of 1566 (see p56)
and a devastating fire in 1584. The damaged
building is undergoing continuous restoration.


. Organ
The great organ (1617)
was fully refurbished in
1985 and restored to its
original state.









Statue of St Mary
The 13th-century miracle-
working figure of the Zoete
Lieve Vrouw of Den Bosch
(Our Good Lady of Den
Bosch) was for centuries
kept in Brussels, but was
returned to Sint Jan in 1853.






KEY
1 The ornamental south
portal is dedicated to Saint John
the Evangelist.
2 Flying buttresses are designed
to strengthen the structure of the
building. They are richly ornamented
with saints, angels and other figures.
3 The gargoyles are designed
to channel rainwater pouring
off the roof. Here, the drain pipes
are encased by the head of
mythical animals.
4 The stained-glass window
frame depicts the woman and the Baptistery
dragon from The Book of Revelation. The baptismal font in the
5 The seven radiating chapels baptistery dates from
around the choir form an 1492. The figures on the
elegant crown. cover depict the baptism
of Jesus by St John.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and pp414–15


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’ S-HER T OGENBOSCH  365

Baldachin
The revolving baldachin in VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
the middle of the cathedral is
ascribed to Alart Duhameel. Practical Information
The all-seeing eye looks Torenstraat 16.
down from the vaults. Tel 073-6130314.
∑ sint-jan.nl
Open 8am–5pm daily but
restrictions apply during
church services.











Antoniuskapel
The Chapel of St Anthony
contains a spectacular
Passion altar made by a
studio in Antwerp. The
Church of Sint Jan
managed to buy the
retable in 1901 for
one guilder.

. Stained-Glass Windows
The Church of Sint Jan was restored
in Neo-Gothic style during the 19th
century. A great deal was changed,
including the lively and colourful
stained-glass windows.






















. Sanctuary
The sanctuary was built from
1380 to 1425 by Willem van
Kessel. The vaults are painted
with a variety of religious
scenes, among them the
coronation of St Mary.




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366  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS


Exploring ’s-Hertogenbosch
Along with a large number of historical buildings and interesting
museums, the town of ’s-Hertogenbosch offers a wide choice
of fine restaurants. The excellent Noordbrabants Museum has
an excellent exhibition of art from the Southern Netherlands
from 1500 to the present. The most striking building in Four putti (1731) by Walter Pompe,
’s-Hertogenbosch is the majestic Gothic church of Sint Jan. Noordbrabants Museum
The historic district of Uilenburg offers ample opportunities
to while away the time with a drink or a bite to eat in a café. E Noordbrabants Museum
Verwersstraat 41. Tel 073-6877877.
The splendid church of Sint Jan most of his life here. In the town’s Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun.
(see pp364–5) is Den Bosch’s historical district of Uilenburg, Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 -
crowning glory. In the Markt beyond the Markt, are plenty of The excellent Noordbrabants
stand historical buildings such as good cafés and restaurants. The Museum displays art by
De Moriaan (parts of which date Binnen-Dieze, the city’s inner renowned artists such as Pieter
back to the 12th century) and canal, surfaces at this point; Brueghel and Teniers, as well as
the town hall, dating from 1670. houses here stand directly in its modern artists such as Van Gogh,
A statue of the great painter water. Right by Sint Jan is the Mondriaan and Sluyters. The
Hieronymus Bosch (c.1453– majestic Zwanenbroedershuis museum also features exhibits
1516) stands between the (see p363), as well as the Museum on the history of the province of
two grand buildings. Born in Slager, which showcases North Brabant, from prehistoric
’s-Hertogenbosch, Bosch spent paintings by the Slager family. times to the present.

2 Heusden here, save for the fact that fair), held each year at the end of
motor vehicles are allowed July, is the biggest fair in Holland.
Road Map C4. * 43,000. @ n
Pelsestraat 17 (0416-662100). ( Thu. into the fortress. The entire town puts all its energy
into the event, and people come
After a thorough refurbishment from far and near to attend.
that started in 1968 and lasted 3 Tilburg
for decades, the pic turesque Road Map C5. * 213,000. £ @ E Nederlands Textielmuseum
ancient fortified town of n Nieuwlandstraat 34 (0900- Goirkestraat 96. Tel 013-5367475.
Heusden on the River Maas has 2020815). ( Tue–Sat. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm
been restored to its former Sat & Sun. Closed most public hols.
glory. That Heusden fell victim Tilburg, the sixth-largest town in & 7 8 by appointment.
to the redevelopment craze Holland, once had a flourishing - 0 =
of the 1960s matters little. textile industry. The interesting
Walls, houses, moats, the Nederlands Textielmuseum, Environs
Veerpoort (ferry gate) and which is housed in a former Kaatsheuvel is home to De
the Waterpoort have all been textile mill, illustrates the Efteling, the famous theme
restored in the old style. As history of the country’s textile park where all kinds of fairytale
advertising is banned in industry and explains how personalities come to life
Heusden, it is easy to imagine textiles were produced. (see p427).
that time has stood still The kermis van Tilburg (Tilburg
4 Breda
Road Map B5. * 182,100. £ @
n Willemstraat 17–19 (0900-
5222444). ( Tue & Fri am, Sat.
The Old Bastion of Breda was
built at the confluence of the
rivers Aa and Mark around the
Kasteel van Breda, where the
Koninklijke Militaire Academie
(royal military academy) is now
established. Breda was granted
its town charter in 1252.
A walk through the old centre
will take you to the Grote Kerk,
also known as the Onze Lieve
Mills on the bastion of the old fortified town of Heusden Vrouwe Kerk (Church of Our
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and pp414–15


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NOR TH BR ABANT  367


Lady). It is prominent on the
Grote Markt and cannot be
missed. Construction of this
magnificent Brabant Gothic-style
church began in 1410; in 1995–8
it underwent restoration.
At the Spanjaardsgat water-
gate, near the castle, legend
has it that in the 16th century,
during the 80 Years War of
independence from Spain,
Adriaen van Bergen tricked
his way past the Spanish with
a peat barge full of soldiers
and liberated the town.
Breda’s Museum is housed
in the old barracks of the The basilica of Oudenbosch, a miniature copy of St Peter’s in Rome
Chassékazerne. The museum
displays interesting exhibits 7 Bergen op Zoom original chapel. The lords of
that illustrate local history. Bergen op Zoom built the
Road Map B5. * 66,200. £ @
n Korte Meesstraat 19 (0164- Markiezenhof, which was
E Breda’s Museum 277482). ( Thu. finally completed in 1511. The
Parade 12–14. Tel 076-5299300. Open castle is today a museum, with
10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 7 - The old town of Bergen op period rooms and an unusual
Zoom grew around a chapel collection of fairground items.
that was dedicated to St There are also changing
5 Oudenbosch Gertrude. In 1260, Bergen op exhibitions, which vary from
Zoom was granted its town cultural history to modern art.
Road Map B5. * 13,000
(municipality of Halderberge). charter, after which it enjoyed
£ @ n Parklaan 15 (0165-390555). a period of prosperity. The E Markiezenhof
( Tue pm. 15th-century St Geertruids­ Steenbergsestraat 8. Tel 0164-277077.
kerk, with its striking tower, Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Between 1860 and 1870, stands on the site of the & 7 -
Oudenbosch was the point
from which the Zouaves set The Surrender of Breda
out on their journey to Rome
to defend the pope against During the 80 Years War, Breda was kept under siege by Spain for
Garibaldi. Upon their return, they ten months, before finally surrendering to Ambrosio Spinola’s
had the architect PJH Cuypers troops on 5th June 1625. The moment of capitulation is captured
(see p375) build a miniature in Velázquez’s painting, known as both The Surrender of Breda and
replica of St Peter’s basilica in Las Lanzas – the lances – after the line of weapons that dominate
Rome, the Basiliek van de HH the background. Velázquez, the great court painter of King Philip
Agatha en Barbara (Basilica of IV, is said to have painted the scene from memory. His picture
SS Agatha and Barbara). shows the moment when the commander of the Dutch troops,
on the left of the picture in a supplicating position, hands the key
of the Dutch fortress to a straight-backed Spinola. The painting
6 Willemstad is famous for its composition, with the canvas divided into two
balanced parts: left and right contain a group of soldiers and
Road Map B4. * 2,300. a horse, while
@ n Lantern Dijk 12. ( Mon. the fore- and
background are
The Bastions of Willemstad split into human
were built in 1583 by William activity and the
of Orange. The Mauritshuis smouldering city
(1623), the former hunting behind. The work
lodge of Maurice, Prince of is also noted for
Orange, is today a museum. the lively way it
The influence of the Oranges portrays the men,
can also been seen in the white several of whom
Oranjemolen mill (1734). There look the viewer
is a pleasant harbour and a directly in the eye.
tree-lined “Wedding Walk”, The painting now
which leads to a domed church, hangs in Madrid’s
the Koepeikerk. Museo del Prado. The Surrender of Breda by Velázquez





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368  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS


are a clutch of striking modern was laid out for the team in
buildings, including the 1913. Guided tours allow visitors
Stadhuis, an imposing structure, to enter the players’ changing
surrounded by a large empty rooms and to walk down the
space, the Stadhuis Plein, and tunnel onto the pitch.
the more appealing train station Eindhoven’s most important
with its slender tower and sight, however, is the Van
glassy frontage. Abbemuseum, which is
The Philips Museum, in the
city centre, holds a fascinating
collection of electrical objects
dating back to the earliest
days of the company. On
display are dozens of the very
Woman in Green (1909) by Picasso, Van first light bulbs dating from
Abbemuseum (Eindhoven) the 19th century, beautiful
bakelite radios and hulking
8 Eindhoven cabinets from the birth of
broadcasting. Visitors can
Road Map C5. * 224,800. £ @
n Stationsplein 17 (040-2979115). learn about the history of light-
( Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun. bulb making, from hand-made
to mass-produced, and how
The old market town of the light bulb transformed
Eindhoven was merged with Eindhoven from a small town
the villages of Strijp, Woensel, into an industrial giant.
Tongelre, Stratum and Gestel A rather more surprising find
in the 19th century. The in the centre of this industrial
municipality of Eindhoven grew city is the Eindhoven Museum. Eindhoven Museum, one of the town’s
enormously in the last century This open-air museum in the main attractions
when Philips, the electronics middle of the Genneper Park
company, sited its factory there. contains reconstructions of an devoted to modern art. The
Philips’s best-known building, Iron Age village, a Viking origin al building was designed
the distinctive Witte Dame settlement and a medieval in 1936 by AJ Kropholler and
(White Lady) was built in 1922 town. Actors in costume people has been described as a
by architect Dirk Rozenberg; the scene, and are on hand to “brick castle”. In the 1990s,
it has now been sold and answer questions. There’s also a architect Abel Cahen was
converted into a design college, restaurant where visitors can eat commissioned to expand the
library and centre for artists. meals based on ancient recipes, museum. Cleverly integrating
The former Phili ps area in Strijp like grain stew and lentil pâté. the existing building into a
is also being dev eloped into a Looming over the railway large new wing, he quadrup led
residential area with shops, station is the space-age Philips the exhibition space and added
restaurants and theatres. Stadion, home of the PSV a restaurant and multimedia
The city centre was heavily Eindhoven football team. centre. Queen Beatrix opened
bombed in World War II and as The stadium, although ultra- the museum in January 2003.
a result very few old buildings modern these days, still stands The collection contains works
have survived. In their place on the spot where the first pitch by Chagall, Lissitzky and Beuys,
and is particularly known for
Picasso’s Woman in Green (1909).
E Philips Museum
Emmasingel 31. Tel 040-2359030.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun.
E Eindhoven Museum
Boutenslaan 161b. Tel 040-2522281.
Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun.
E Philips Stadion
Frederiklaan 10a. Tel 040-2505505.
8 booking essential.
E Van Abbemuseum
Bilderdijklaan 10. Tel 040-2381000.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 7
Philips Stadion, home to the football team PSV Eindhoven - ∑ vanabbemuseum.nl
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and pp414–15


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NOR TH BR ABANT  369


9 Heeze
Road Map C5. * 15,700. £ @
n Schoolstraat 2 (040-2260644).
( Thu am.
The 17th-century castle of
Kasteel Heeze is the centrepiece
of this small Brabant town, just
outside Eindhoven. Designed by
Pieter Post, it stands amid lovely
streams, woods and meadows.
Among the many exhibits set out
in the castle’s 30 halls are valuable
Gobelin tapestries.
+ Kasteel Heeze
Kapelstraat 25. Tel 040-2261431.
Open May–Sep. & 8 May–Sep:
2pm Wed, 2 & 3pm Sun (Jul & Aug: The vast Strabrechtse Heide at Heeze and Geldrop
also 2pm Wed).
E Vincentre w Deurne
Berg 29. Tel 040-2839615.
0 Nuenen Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (Mon in Road Map D5. * 32,000. £ @
n Markt 14 (0493-323655). ( Fri pm.
summer only). & some public hols.
Road Map C5. * 22,700. @ n
Berg 29 (040-2839615). ( Mon pm. The relaxing town of Deurne
is an artistic centre. The house
Nuenen, northeast of Eindhoven, q Helmond (1922) of the extravagant
is the village where Van Gogh Road Map C5. * 90,100£ @ doctor and painter Henrik
lived from 1883 to 1885. The n Watermolenwal 11 (0492-522220). Wiedersma, who used to make
Vincentre in Van Gogh Village ( Wed am, Sat am. house calls on his motorcycle,
deals comprehensively with his is now a museum of
time in Nuenen. The most outstanding feature expressionist works by the
of Helmond is the castle doctor and his avant-garde
dating from 1402, today the friends, including Ossip Zadkine,
Gemeentemuseum (local who often stayed with him.
history museum). The museum Poets such as Roland Holst,
has many historical artifacts and Nijhoff and Bloem were also
a fine collection of modern art, regular visitors to the house.
including works by Breitner and
Charley Toorop. E Museum De Wieger
Oude Liesselseweg 29. Tel 0493-322930.
E Gemeentemuseum Open noon–5pm Wed–Sun. Closed
Kasteelplein 1. Tel 0492-845980. Mon, Tue & most public hols. & -
The magnificent 17th-century Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm
Kasteel Heeze Sat & Sun. & 7 8 -
e Gemert
Van Gogh in Brabant Road Map C5. * 27,300 (commun ity
of Gemert-Bakel). @ n Ridder plein
Vincent van Gogh was born in 1853 49 (0492-366606). ( Mon pm.
in Zundert, south of Breda. There, in the
Cultureel Centrum, you can learn about Gemert is a town of historical
his childhood. In 1883, he moved to importance; its nickname was
Nuenen, where his father was rector. once “Heerlijkheid Gemert”
He stayed there until 1885, when he (“glorious Gemert”). Until 1794
moved on to Antwerp. The Nuenen it was ruled by the Knights of
period was very prolific for Van Gogh. the Teutonic Order: their castle
Rural life in Brabant inspired him, and he still stands and is now used
painted farms, labourers and weavers in as a monastery.
the blue and brown tones that are so The Boerenbondmuseum
characteristic of his Nuenen work.
A famous painting dating from this (agricultural museum) is in a
period is The Potato Eaters (1885). farmhouse dating from the
beginning of the 20th century;
Statue of Van Gogh in Nuenen the displays portray what rural
life was like at that time.




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SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS  371

LIMBURG


Limburg is the Netherlands’ southernmost province, squeezed
by the course of history into its present unusual shape – its
boundaries defined by Belgium to the south and to the
west and by Germany to the east. Yet its outline is not
the only remarkable thing about this delightful
multilingual province.

From a geological point of view, Limburg is Beaker Folk (see p46). The Romans were
much older than the rest of Holland, sitting here for around 400 years and Maastricht,
on coal deposits that are around 270 which they founded, has much evidence
million years old. In the mining museum of their impressive buildings. Heerlen was
at Kerkrade, east of Maastricht, you can see also an important Roman crossroads and
how coal used to be mined in this region. the bathhouse museum here makes an
The caves that can be seen in many places excellent and informative visit. In the
in South Limburg are also mines, albeit for Middle Ages, Limburg was split up and
the local limestone laid down between 60 fought over at various times by the
and 70 million years ago. The best-known German Empire, Gelder, Liège, Brabant
cave systems, parts of which date from and the Spanish. It acquired its present
the Roman era, are at Valkenburg and at borders in the 19th century. Nowadays
St Pietersberg near Maastricht. it has plenty to offer visitors, from historic
The Maas river valley has been attractive towns with fine architecture, shops and
to settlers since the last Ice Age. There is nightlife to countryside dotted with
evidence of early nomads, followed by the half-timbered houses, farms, water mills
remains of successive sedentary societies in the rivers, and countless castles and
such as the “Bandkeramikers” and the country houses.





























Half-timbered houses in the South Limburg town of Cottessen
Statues on the estate of one of the castles in Valkenburg



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372  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring Limburg MOOK

Noord Limburg is made up of the Peel and the Maas
regions. Between the River Maas and the German border Gennep
are nature reserves with fens, woodland, heathland and
river dunes. The former wilderness known as the
Peelgebied is on the border with North Brabant. Middle Maas
Limburg is the section from the Maasplassen lakes,
which were created by the digging of gravel pits. It is Nieuw-Bergen
now one of the most important watersports areas in the
country. Zuid Limburg consists of Maastricht, the Well
Mijnstreek (mining country) and the pretty chalk-hill Picking asparagus in Noord Limburg
landscape to the south.
VENRAY

ARCEN
Horst
Sevenum
Blerick
VENLO
Meijel Maasbree
Nationaal
Park de Tegelen
Grote Peel Panningen
Maas
Nederweert Reuver
National park of De Grote Peel WEERT LIM BURG
Swalmen
Getting Around
Stramproy
Limburg is easily reached by rail and by road, ROERMOND
which are also the best ways to explore it. The THORN
motorways and railways invariably follow the
same routes, that is to say: Nijmegen–Venlo– Maasbracht DE MEINWEG
Roermond–Geleen–Maastricht, Weert– Posterholt
(Roermond)–Geleen–Maastricht and, finally, the
triangle Maastricht–Geleen–Heerlen. For cyclists 0 kilometres 10 Julianakanaal
there are long sections of cycle paths along the 0 miles 10 Echt
Julianakanaal and the Zuid-Willemsvaart. The
south of Zuid Limburg in particular is simply Susteren
ideal for cycling (including racing) and rambling.
The tourist railway or “environmental line” from
Schin near Geul to Kerkrade via Wijlre, Eys and Maas SITTARD
Simpelveld operates from April to October on
Sundays and most Wednesdays and Thursdays, Stein
with two steam trains and a “rail-bus”. Geleen Brunssum
ELSLOO
Beek
HOENSBROEK
Nuth
Landgraaf
Meerssen HEERLEN
VALKENBURG Kerkrade
MAASTRICHT
Simpelveld
Wijlre
GULPEN
EIJSDEN HEUVELL A N D VAALS
Limestone quarry with old passageways
For map symbols see back flap


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LIMBURG  373

MOOK
Sights at a Glance
1 Mook
2 Venray
3 Arcen
Gennep
4 Venlo
5 Weert
6 Roermond
Maas
7 De Meinweg
Nieuw-Bergen 8 Maastricht pp376–81
9 Thorn
0 Sittard
Well q Hoensbroek
w Heerlen
e Valkenburg
VENRAY
r Gulpen
t Elsloo
y Eijsden
ARCEN
Horst u Vaals
Tour
Sevenum i Heuvelland pp384–5
Blerick
VENLO
Meijel Maasbree Field chapel in Heuvelland
Nationaal
Park de Tegelen
Grote Peel Panningen
Maas
Nederweert Reuver
LIM BURG
WEERT
Swalmen Key
Motorway
Stramproy ROERMOND Major road
THORN Minor road
Maasbracht DE MEINWEG Scenic route
Major railway
Julianakanaal Echt Minor railway
Posterholt
Regional border

Susteren International border

Maas SITTARD
Stein
Geleen
Brunssum
ELSLOO
Beek
HOENSBROEK
Nuth
Landgraaf
Meerssen HEERLEN
VALKENBURG Kerkrade
MAASTRICHT
Simpelveld
Wijlre
GULPEN
EIJSDEN HEUVELL A N D VAALS
Kasteel Schaloen at Valkenburg (13th century), rebuilt in the 17th century
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and p415


372-373_EW_Netherlands.indd 373 16/01/17 12:07 pm

374  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS

1 Mook
Road Map D4. * 825. @ 83.
n Witteweg 10, Plasmolen
(024-6961762).
The village of Mook is on the
River Maas in the very north
of Limburg. On 14 April 1574,
the Prince of Orange’s army
was routed on the nearby
Mookerhei by the Spanish. The
star-shaped fortifications of the
Heumense Schans from the 80
Years War stand atop a 43-m
(141-ft) ridge from the Saalian
Ice Age. It offers a fantastic
vantage point from which to
view the Maas valley.
South of Mook is the recreation
area of the Mookerplas lake
and the fine estate of Sint
Jansberg, where the Bovenste
Plasmolen, an ancient watermill,
has been restored.

2 Venray
Road Map D5. * 43,000. @ 27, 29,
30, 39. n Passage 4, Venray (0478-
510505). ( Mon pm. The magnificent 16th-century Venlo town hall in the Markt
During World War II, Noord course. You can also take the 4 Venlo
Limburg was the scene of heavy waters at the Thermaalbad Road Map D5. * 100,000. @
fighting. An English and a Arcen spa; its mineral-rich water n Klasstraat 17, Bookstore Koops
German (at Ysselsteyn) military is extracted from 900 m (2,955 ft) (077-3543800). ( Fri pm, Sat.
cemetery lie near the town. underground. Other local delights
Nearby Overloon is home to the include special Arcen beer, The combined city of Venlo/
Oorlogs-en Ver zetsmuseum asparagus (with an asparagus Blerick began as a Roman
(War and Resistance Museum). market on Ascension Day), and settlement. In the Middle Ages
In 1944, Venray was largely the drink distilled by the Branderij it grew rich on trade. The
destroyed. The 15th-century De IJsvogel, housed in the 17th- 15th-century St Martinuskerk, a
basilica of St Petrus Banden, century Wijmarsche water mill. Gothic hall-type church, and Ald
with its magnificent interior, Outside Arcen is the Nationaal Weishoes, a Latin school built in
was given a new 80-m (262-ft) Park Landgoed de Hamert. the Gelderland Renaissance style
tower in restoration works. The dating from 1611, are among
Geijsteren estate on the Maas, Y Kasteeltuinen the few historical buildings to
where old Maas terraces are Lingsforterweg 26. Tel 077-4736010. have survived World War II. The
visible in the terrain, is an Open Apr–late Oct: 10am–6pm town hall was designed between
outstanding rambling area. daily. Closed rest of the year. & 1597 and 1600 by Willem van
- = Bommel. The local Museum
Van Bommel-Van Dam features
3 Arcen modern art; the Limburgs
Museum, archaeological finds.
Road Map D5. * 9,000. @ 83.
n Klasstraat 17, Bookstore Koops
(077-3543800). E Museum Van Bommel-
Van Dam
The main attraction of Arcen, Deken van Oppensingel 6. Tel 077-
picturesquely located on the 3513457. Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Maas, is the finely restored Closed Mon, 1 Jan, Carnival, 25 Dec.
17th-century Arcen castle with its E Limburgs Museum
Kasteeltuinen (castle gardens). Keulsepoort 5. Tel 077-3522112.
They incorporate a rose garden, Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun.
subtropical gardens, Eastern Exquisite gardens of the 17th-century Closed 1 Jan, Carnival, 25 Dec.
gardens, a pine forest and a golf Arcen castle ∑ limburgsmuseum.nl
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and p415


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LIMBURG  375

5 Weert
Road Map C5. * 49,000. £
n Markt 11 (0495-534211). ( Sat.
The jewel of Weert is the
St Martinuskerk, one of the few
Late Gothic hall-type churches
in Holland (in hall-type churches,
the side aisles are equal in height
and width to the nave). When
restoration works were carried
out around 1975, paintings from
the 15th and 16th centuries
were discovered beneath the
layers of whitewash on the
vaulted ceilings. Before the high
altar (1790), by Italians Moretti
and Spinetti, lies the tomb of the Interior of the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwemunsterkerk in Roermond
lord of Weert, beheaded in 1568
on the order of Alva in Brussels. church of Our Lady), which 7 De Meinweg
Not far from the church is the was originally the church of a Road Map D6. * none. @ 78, 79.
Ursulinenhof, an example of a Cistercian abbey. The interior of n Beheerseenheid De Meinweg,
new building successfully the church is worth a visit. The Bezoekerscentrum, Meinweg 2,
integrated into a St Christoffel kathedraal, a Herkenbosch (0475-528500).
historical centre. Gothic cruciform basilica
Surrounding areas with a gilded statue of The national park of De Meinweg
such as Weerterbos St Christopher on the in the east of the province pos-
forest and the tower, dates from the sesses a unique natural beauty.
Nationaal Park early 15th century. The Nine hiking routes have been
De Grote Peel are Limburg asparagus church’s stained-glass laid out here. You can also tour
remnants of a region windows are by the local the park by horse-drawn cart,
of peat moors. glazier Joep Nicolas. accompanied by expert guides.
Roermond is by the
Maasplassen lakes, one of
6 Roermond the country’s largest areas for Dr PJH Cuypers
watersports. The lakes cover Architect Pierre Cuypers was
Road Map D5. * 57,000.
£ n Markt 17 (0475-335847). more than 300 ha (740 acres) born in Roermond in 1827. He
( Wed pm, Sat. and have a length of approxi- lived and worked both in his
mately 25 km (15 miles). The hometown and in Amsterdam.
The oldest church in the see Maasplassen were created One of Cuypers’ sons and one
of Roermond is the 13th- through large-scale gravel of his nephews also became
century Late Romanesque, quarrying in the Maas valley, renowned architects.
Early Gothic Onze-Lieve- which went on as far as Considered one of the prime
Vrouwemunsterkerk (minster Maaseik in Belgium. representatives of the
Netherlands Neo-Gothic,
Cuypers designed the Central
Station and the Rijksmuseum
in Amsterdam, and De Haar
castle in Haarzuilens. He was
also the architect and restorer
of countless churches,
including the munsterkerk
(minster church) in Roermond.









Munsterkerk in Roermond
The 1,600-ha (3,955-acre) De Meinweg national park




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376  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS

8 Street-by-Street: Maastricht

Maastricht emerged in Roman times at a point along the River
Maas which could be crossed on foot (Mosae Traiectum), on
the Roman road that led from Colonia Agrippina (Cologne) to
Bononia (Boulogne). The founder of Christian Maastricht was
St Serviatus, bishop of Tongeren, who died in AD 384 in
Maastricht and was buried in the cemetery then located
outside the town walls. The magnificent basilica of St Servaas
was built over his tomb. In addition to the basilica, another Sculpture of Pieke
This sculpture in
fine church is the Romanesque Onze-Lieve-Vrouwebasiliek. Stokstraat is of Pieke and
his dog, from a book by
Ber Hollewijn.



M A R K T



GROTE GRACHT S P I L S T R A AT


The Generaalshuis
Now the Theater aan het Vrijthof, this H E L M S T R A AT
Neo-Classical palace was built in 1809.
General Dibbets, who succeeded in
keeping Maastricht part of the
Netherlands, lived here around 1830. S TAT E N S T R A AT G R OT E S TA AT



Key
Recommended route V RI JT HO F L E L I E S T R A AT


P L AT I E L S T R A AT
0 metres 100
0 yards 100











In den Ouden
Vogelstruys
One of the many
street cafés
flanking the
. Cemetery Vrijthof, this lively,
Now one of the city’s main squares, the cemetery popular spot
was located outside the town walls when the serves a small
construction of St Servaas began. selection of meals.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and p415



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M AASTRICHT  377


. Stadhuis
The town hall on the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Markt was built in
1559–1664 and is a Practical Information
masterpiece by Pieter Road Map C6. * 122,500.
n Kleine Staat 1 (043-3252121).
Post of the Northern ( Mon–Sat. _ Amstel Gold
Netherlands. The lobby Race (cycling classic): Apr;
is open to visitors.
Vrijthof Fair; St Servaas
procession: May; Preuvenemint
culinary festival: end of Aug.
Transport
£ Stationsplein.
@ Stationsplein.



M A R K T



St Servaasbrug
This bridge is a solid yet elegant structure of seven
semicircular arches dating from 1280. Ships can
reach the Wyck side through a modern section.
S P I L S T R A AT


G R OT E S TA AT K L E I N E S TA AT
M B R U G S T R A AT




M SMEDEN S T R A AT M A A S B O U L E VA R D

P L AT I E L S T R A AT M I N C K E L E R S T R A AT WOLFSTRAAT
L E L I E S T R A AT













. Onze-Lieve- P L A N K S T R A AT S TO K S T R A AT
Vrouwebasiliek
In one of the
chapels of this The Wall Lizard
Romanesque This animal can
cruciform basilica be seen in parts
is the votive of Maastricht, the
statue of Our Lady only Dutch town
“Sterre der Zee”. it occurs in.




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378  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS

Bonnefantenmuseum

The Bonnefantenmuseum is one of Maastricht’s
most prominent landmarks, situated on the
right bank of the Maas in a distinctive building
designed by the Italian architect Aldo Rossi.
The museum’s exhibits include old masters,
painting and sculpture from the medieval . Cupola by Aldo Rossi
The tower houses a restaurant
period to 1650, and a celebrated international and an exhibition hall.
collection of modern art.












La Natura è l’Arte
del Numero
This installation, designed by
Mario Merz, consists of tables
covered with glass, branches,
stones, vegetables and
numbers fashioned out of
fluorescent tubes.













Cimon and Pero
Peter Paul Rubens (1577–1640)
depicted Pero feeding her
starving father Cimon while he
awaited execution in prison.

KEY
1 Plattegronden by René Daniels
(b. 1950) is a simplified re-creation
of a museum hall. Daniels painted
yellow rectangles over the red flat
paintings, which are out of sync with
the perspective of the hall, thus
creating a disorienting effect. . Wood Carvings
2 Terrace The fine collection of
3 Domed hall medieval wood carvings
includes St Anna-te-Drieën, a
4 Inner tower walnut sculpture by Jan van
Steffeswert (1470–1525).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and p415



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M AASTRICHT  379

Bonnefantopia
The Rotterdam VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
group of artists
Atelier van Lieshout Practical Information
created this large Avenue Céramique 250.
installation in 2002. Tel 043-3290190.
∑ bonnefanten.nl
It features stylized
polyester bodies Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun &
hanging, squatting public hol Mon. Closed 1 Jan,
and lying down Carnival, 25 Dec. & for temp
throughout exhibits. = 0 -
the structure. Transport
@ 1, 3, 50, 53, 54, 57.
View on a City
from a River
by Jan Brueghel the
Elder (1568–1625).






























Entrance
Museum Guide
The Bonnefantenmuseum
was designed by Aldo Rossi. It has
a permanent collection of early
and contemporary art; in addition,
a range of temporary exhibitions
are organized. The highlight of the
museum is its magnificent collection
of medieval wood carvings.
. Staircase St Stephen
The monumental staircase runs Giovanni del Biondo (1356–99)
through the middle of the museum painted this work, thought to be
and leads into the different wings part of a triptych, as the panel has
and floors of the museum. signs of being cut with a saw.




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380  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS


Exploring Maastricht
Maastricht is considered to be one of the oldest towns in
Holland. It was the seat of the country’s first bishopric and
an impressive fortress. It has some outstanding historical
monuments, including the Romanesque Onze-Lieve-
Vrouwebasiliek (Basilica of Our Lady); the Romanesque
St Servaas Basilica, with a very old crypt and a carved Gothic
portal (early 13th century); a scattering of Gothic churches;
a Baroque church formerly belonging to the Augustine order
(1661); and a Walloon church from 1733. A great deal remains
of the fortifications, including Roman foundations, part of
the medieval wall, a 17th-century bastion, and 18th- and
19th-century reinforcement works. The medieval Helpoort gate, the oldest city
gate in the country
E Natuurhistorisch the Romans settled in 50 BC
Museum and where the district of P Helpoort
De Bosquetplein 7. Tel 043-3505490. Stokstraat, with its medieval St Bernardusstraat 24b. Tel 043-
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri, 1–5pm Sat and Golden Age buildings, now 3212586. Open Easter Day–Oct, 12:30–
& Sun. Closed some public hols. & lies. The pavement of Op de 4:30pm daily. & voluntary donation.
This attractive natural history Thermen, a small and peaceful The Helpoort gate, dating from
museum showcases the natural square in this district where the the early 13th century, also
history of the south of Limburg original Roman fort once was, forms part of the early medieval
through the ages. Highlights has been
of the museum include the marked with
remains of the enormous the outlines of
mosasaur and giant tortoises the old Roman
found in the limestone strata baths. The first
of St Pietersberg. medieval wall
around
P Roman Foundations Maastricht
of the Tower dates from
OL Vrouweplein. Tel 043-3251851. around 1229.
Open timings vary, call to check. Of these, the
In the courtyard of the Onze- Onze-Lieve-
Lieve-Vrouwebasiliek you can Vrouwewal –
see the foundations of a Roman which has
tower which was once part of cannons Mosasaurus hofmanni in the natural history museum, known
the Roman castellum. The standing in locally as the terrible Maas lizard
castellum stood on the banks of front of it – and
the River Maas, just south of the the Jekertoren tower can town fortifications. It stood at
St Servaasbrug bridge, where still be seen. the southern end of the town
and is the oldest surviving town
gate in Holland, and the only
one still standing in Maastricht.
Other structures from this
period can be seen across the
River Maas in Wyck: the
Waterpoortje gate, the Stenen
Wal (wall) along the river, and
the Maaspunttoren. The second
medieval fortifications, made
necessary by the rapid growth
of the city, were built around
1350. Of these, the Pater
Vinktoren near the Helpoort
gate, and the romantic
embankment wall and the
semicircular towers known
as De Vijf Koppen and Haet
ende Nijt continue to
The impressive Pater Vink tower survive to this day.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and p415


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M AASTRICHT  381


E Museum Spaans
Gouvernement
Vrijthof 18. Tel 043-3211327.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Closed public hols. &
This museum, housed in a
16th-century chapterhouse,
features period rooms from the
17th and 18th centuries, and
Dutch paintings from that era.

P Centre Céramique
Avenue Céramique 50. Tel 043-350
5600. Open call ahead or check
website. Closed Mon & public hols.
& = ∑ centreceramique.nl
This information centre has a
library, archive, cafés and the
European Journalism Centre.
T Grotten St-Pietersberg Crypt in the eastern part of the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwebasiliek
Luikerweg. 8 phone for details
(043-3252121). & - 0 earliest Gothic buildings in the well as commissioning new
The famous St Peter’s caves were Maasland region. This portal is murals and ceiling paintings.
created when limestone was dedicated to St Mary, with These were repainted during a
quarried through the centuries. representations of her life, subsequent restoration, which
Eventually a maze of over 20,000 death and Assumption in the was completed in 1990.
passageways came into being. arch. The side chapels and
Some of the inscriptions on the the Gothic transept date from R Onze-Lieve-
walls are very old, and reveal approximately 1475. Vrouwebasiliek
artistic skills of the miners. Highlights of the basilica’s O-L-Vrouweplein. Treasury: Tel 043-
treasury are the 12th-century 3561330. Open timings vary, call to
reliquary containing the relics check. Church: Closed during services.
of St Servatius and St Martin of Construction of Onze-Lieve-
Tongeren, and the golden bust Vrouwebasiliek began around
of St Servatius. The latter was 1000. The oldest part of the
dona ted to the town by the basilica is the imposing west
Duke of Par ma when Maastricht façade. Once this was
was captured by the Spaniards completed, work began on the
in 1579. nave and transept. The chancel
The Gothic Bergportaal (15th century) of During the 19th century, followed in the 12th century,
the St-Servaasbasiliek thorough restoration works built over an 11th-century crypt.
were undertaken by Pierre The apse pillars, made from
R St-Servaasbasiliek Cuypers. He restored the limestone, are crowned with
Keizer Karelplein 7. Tel 043-3212082. western end to its original lavishly sculpted capitals, such
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 12:30– Romanesque splendour, as as the renowned Heimokapiteel.
6pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Carnival,
25 Dec.
Construction on St Servatius The Reliquary of St Servatius
Basilica began around the year The magnificent restored reliquary is
1000 on the spot where the a monumental shrine containing the
saint was buried (upon which relics of St Servatius and St Martin
stood an earlier church). The of Tongeren. It is made of wood
nave, the crypt, the transept covered with embossed gilded
copper plate in the shape of a
and the chancel are the oldest house. It dates from about 1160
parts of the basilica, dating back and was built by artists from the
to the 11th cen tury. The apse Maasland region. The front of the
and the two chancel towers reliquary depicts Christ, with the
were built in the following 12 apostles along the sides, and
century. The western end also St Servatius surrounded by angels
dates from the 12th century. on the back. The “roof” of the “house”
The southern Bergportaal gate is decorated with scenes from
dates from the early 13th the Last Judgement. The 12th-century reliquary
century, and is one of the




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382  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS

q Hoensbroek
Road Map D6. * 25,500. £
n Bongerd 19, Heerlen (0900-
5559798). ( Fri am.
Before the state-run Emma
mine was opened here in
1908, Hoensbroek was a sleepy
farming town. It subsequently
grew into the centre of the
Dutch coal-mining industry. Its
industrial importance waned
with the closing of the mines.
Kasteel Hoensbroek was built
in the Middle Ages. All that
remains of the original castle
is the round corner-tower. The
wings and towers around the
rectangular inner courtyard date
from the 17th and 18th centuries.
The impressive medieval Kasteel Hoensbroek The castle is moated and today
functions as a cultural centre.
9 Thorn end of the 19th century by
renowned architect Pierre
Road Map D5. * 2,600. @ 72, 73, 76.
n Wijngaard 8 (0475-561085). Cuypers, who also added a
splendid Gothic tower. Clara
Southeast of Weert on the A2 Elisabeth van Manderscheidt-
is the little town of Thorn, Blankenheim, a canoness of the
which with its picturesque foundation, founded the Kapel
narrow streets and houses, van O-L-Vrouwe onder de
historical farm buildings and Linden (Chapel of Our Lady
monumental Abbey Church under the Linden) north of the
looks like an open-air museum. town in 1673.
For some 800 years, until 1794,
Thorn was the capital of an
autonomous secular foundation 0 Sittard Thermae at the Thermenmuseum
headed by an abbess. The Road Map D6. * 46,500. £
Wijngaard, the village square, is n Kitzraedhuis, Rosmolenstraat 2 w Heerlen
surrounded by whitewashed (0900-5559798). ( Thu am, Sat. Road Map D6. * 87,500. £
houses where the noble ladies n Bongerd 19 (0900-5559798).
of the foundation once lived. In the 13th century, Sittard was ( Tue, Thu am & Fri.
The 14th-century abbey church granted its town charter and
with its 18th-century interior built its defensive walls, of The Roman town of Coriovallum
was thoroughly restored at the which considerable sections has been discovered beneath
remain intact, including Fort Heerlen. The Thermenmuseum
Sanderbout. The Grote Kerk, or contains the foundations of
St Petruskerk, built around 1300, the ancient thermae and
is worth a visit. The 80-m (262-ft) many everyday items from
tower is built of layers of Roman times. Romanesque
alternating brick and limestone St Pancratiuskerk dates back
blocks, or “speklagen” (bacon to the 12th century. In the
layers). In the Markt is the 20th century, until 1974,
17th-century Baroque Heerlen was the centre of coal
St Michielskerk; Our Lady of mining in Limburg. FPJ Peutz
the Sacred Heart basilica stands built the town hall and Schunck
in the Oude Markt. The oldest department store (known as
house in Sittard is the half- the Glaspaleis, or crystal palace)
timber house built in 1530 on in the 1930s.
the corner of the Markt and the
Gats and containing the De E Thermenmuseum
Gats coffee house. The Jacob Coriovallumstraat 9. Tel 045-5605100.
Kritszraedthuis, a patrician Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm
house, was built in 1620 in Sat, Sun & public hols. Closed 1 Jan,
A whitewashed house in Thorn Maasland Renaissance style. Carnival, 24 & 25 Dec. & 8 =
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and p415


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LIMBURG  383

e Valkenburg
Road map D6. * 5,500. £ @ 36,
47, 63. n Th. Dorrenplein 5 (0900-
5559798). ( Mon am, Tue am.
The old fortified town of
Valkenburg, situated in an area
dotted with castles, is popular
with visitors. In addition to
sights such as the old gates of
Berkelpoort and Grendelpoort,
a 13th-century Romanesque
church and the ruins of a
12th-century castle, there are
many new attractions, such
as a casino, catacombs, the
Fluweelen cave, Gemeentegrot
(a Roman quarry and cave Picturesque sloping streets of the Maasland village of Elsloo
complex), a cable car, the
Prehistorische Monstergrot and built on the site of a Roman Master of Elsloo. Remnants of
the Steenkolenmijn (coal mine). temple from 2,000 years ago, Elsloo’s earliest castle can be
is now a hotel and restaurant. seen in the middle of the river
T Gemeentegrot Beside the castle is the at low water. Of the later Kasteel
Cauberg 4. Tel 043-6012271. Neubourgermolen mill, with Elsloo, only one tower survives.
Open 11am–5pm daily Closed 1 Jan, a fish ladder for trout. The
Carnival, 25 Dec. & 8 guided Gulpen brewery is worth a
tours only. * visit. The common kingfisher y Eijsden
can be seen here.
Road Map C6.
r Gulpen * 4,800. £
@ 58, 59.
t Elsloo
Road Map D6. * 7,500. @ 150. n Diepstraat 31
n Dorpsstraat 27 (0900-5559798). Road Map D6. * 8,650. £ @ 93. (0900-5559798).
( Thu morning. n Kitzraedhuis, Rosmolenstraat 2, ( Thu pm.
Sittard (0900-5559798).
Gulpen lies at the confluence Eijsden, the
of the Geul and Gulp streams. Artifacts from the prehistoric southernmost Kingfisher
The town’s surrounding pottery culture found at Elsloo municipality in the
countryside, with its half- are on display in the Maasland Netherlands, is a protected rural
timbered houses, water mills local history museum, De area. There is a pleasant walk to
and orchards, is probably the Schippersbeurs. In the be had along the Maas quay.
prettiest in Limburg. Hiking Waterstaatskerk, dating from Kasteel Eijsden was built in 1636
routes are marked. The 1848, is the 16th-century in the Maasland Renaissance
17th-century Kastell Neubourg, St-Anna-te-Drieën by the style on the foundations of an
earlier stronghold. The castle is
not open to the public, but the
park makes for a nice stroll.
u Vaals
Road Map D6. * 9,600. @ 50.
n Landal Maastrichterlaan 73a
(0900-5559798). ( Tue am.
Vaals’ wooded countryside is
known for the Drielan denpunt,
from which three countries are
visible. At 322 m (1,058 ft), it
is also the highest point in
Holland. Worth visiting are
Kasteel Vaalsbroek and the
Von Clermonthuis; both date
from the 18th century. De
Kopermolen, once a church,
Limburg’s scenic countryside, with the meandering Jeker river is now a museum.




382-383_EW_Netherlands.indd 383 16/01/17 12:08 pm

384  SOUTHERN NE THERLANDS


i Heuvelland 3 The orchid garden in the traffic-free
Gerendal, a dry valley between Schin op
Geul and Scheulder, is the pride of the
In the Zuid Limburg region of Heuvelland, region. The garden was laid out by the
the hills and the river valleys are covered national forestry commission and is
with fertile loess soil, which occurs nowhere situated behind the forester’s lodge.
else in Holland. In the peaceful rolling Twenty varieties of wild orchid grow here.
countryside, with its stunning views, is a
region of wooded banks, orchards and fields,
dotted with picturesque villages and castles,
and criss-crossed by narrow roads passing
through cuttings with roadside shrines and
field chapels. Heuvelland just may be one of Bunde
Julianakanaal Meerssen
the prettiest parts of Holland. Maas


Rothem
Houthem






2 The Basilica of the Holy Sacrament Maastricht Cadier
in Meerssen, built in the late 14th century en keer
of limestone in Maasland Gothic style, is
one of the most elegant churches in all of
Holland. The chancel features a lavishly
decorated tabernacle. Albertkanaal


Sint-geertruid

J
Mheer
Eijsden
Maas
J
8 Kasteel Eijsden was built in
the Maasland Renaissance style
in 1636. This style is easily
distinguished by its combined
use of brick and stone masonry,
with stone being used to frame 1 Grape-growing in Zuid Limburg
doors and windows. In the past, grape-growing and wine-making was
more widely practised in Zuid Limburg than it is
today. For example, in the 18th century, there
were at least 200 ha (495 acres) of vineyards
Tips for Drivers on and around St-Pietersberg. Today, a few
Tour length: 80 km (50 miles). small professional vineyards can still be
Part of the route passes through found in the region, the most famous being
hilly areas with narrow roads. the Apostelhoeve. On this vine-growing
Stopping-off points: especially estate situated to the the south of Maastricht
good viewing points are to be on the Louwberg above the de Jeker valley,
found at Noorbeek, Slenaken white wine is made from Müller-Thürgau,
and Epen. Riesling, Auxerrois and Pinot Gris grapes. Grapes from Limburg


For map symbols see back flap


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HEUVELLAND  385




Key
Tour route
Other road
Railway


0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2
4 The American War Cemetery at
Margraten contains the graves of 8,300
American soldiers who died in World
War II, marked by plain white crosses.



Valkenburg
Houthem

Schin op
geul
Sibbe



5 In Vijlen is
Holland’s tallest
Gulpen church, its steeple
Margraten visible from afar.
J
J
Mechelen
Vijlen
Mheer
Epen J
J
J J J
Noorbeek Slenaken J J J Vaals




7 Rambling in the Geuldal
At Epen, turn off towards
Plaat and take the road to the
fulling mill in Geul. Carry on
6 Large stretches of after the bridge. A path on
forest are rare in Zuid the opposite side follows the
Limburg. Exceptions are river upstream into Belgium.
the Boswachterij Vaals Along the Geul are poplars
with the Vijlenerbos with mistletoe growing in
forest, and the forests by the branches, which can be
the Brunsummerheide seen particularly well in
(Brunsummer heath). winter. The path leads past
Here the woods cover the Heimansgroeve, a quarry
the landscape and there for rock from the
are lots of springs. Carboniferous period.





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Date 15th November 2012
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TRAVELLERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 388–401

Where to Eat and Drink 402–415
Shopping in
the Netherlands 416–421

Entertainment in
the Netherlands 422–427














































386-387_EW_Netherlands.indd 387 16/01/17 12:08 pm

388  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

The Netherlands offers a variety of hotels, hostels or B&Bs. Campers, too, will
accommodation to suit every traveller’s be spoiled for choice here, with numerous
tastes and needs, ranging from inexpensive campsites and caravan parks, often situated
backpacker hostels to pricey château in stunning locations. For those who intend
living. Visitors can choose to stay in one to stay in a particular area over a longer
of the luxury chain hotels here, which period of time, camping is an especially
vary from bland to spectacular, but there economical option. Visitors who need more
is also good accommodation to be found spacious or convenient accommodation
in historical castles, convents, prisons, can book one of the 350-odd bungalow
mansions – and in one case, a harbour parks in the country, or rent an apartment
crane – that have been converted into in one of the many coastal towns.
Hotel Types Hotel Chains
There is a huge variation in Most major hotel
the price, quality and facilities chains are represented
offered by different hotels. The in the Netherlands,
choice is greatest in Amsterdam including Best
and the larger cities, where Western, Golden
there is something to suit every Tulip, Hilton,
traveller’s pocket. There are also Holiday Inn,
plenty of choices further afield, Mercure, NH and
generally at lower rates. After Radisson. Most of
hotels, bed-and-breakfast (B&B) these can be found
accommodation is also plentiful. in the bigger cities,
As these lodgings are offered although some are
by individuals rather than by situated in country
chains, this type of accom- areas also. Chain Stylish interiors of the Het Arresthuis, Roermond (see p401)
modation may vary greatly in hotels range in
nature and level of comfort – quality from fair to excellent, Categories
one night you might be staying and in size from large to All hotels in the Netherlands
in a family home, and the next massive, and cater to tourists are categorized according to
in a chic country estate. The and business travellers alike. international standards under
least expensive form of Their scale, and often their the Netherlands Hotel
overnight accommodation internationally recognized style, Classification system, which
is in a hostel. Stayokay runs mean that chain hotels are awards each hotel with one to
25 well-appointed hostels generally less personal than five stars. Hoteliers class their
throughout the country, individually operated hotels, but hotels themselves, after which
ranging from a house on the when you spend the night in an inspection is carried out by
top of a dune to a medieval one of these, you are usually an independent organization.
castle, and featuring dormitories assured of a competitively The number of stars awarded
or private rooms. priced and hassle-free stay. to each hotel depends on the
facilities it offers: the more stars
it has, the more luxurious it is. A
one-star hotel is basic and may
or may not offer breakfast. In
two-star hotels, at least 25 per
cent of the rooms will have their
own bathroom or shower and
WC. These hotels will also have
a guest lounge, and a lift if they
are more than three storeys high.
Three-star hotels are considered
middle of the range. Their rooms
have central heating, and at least
half have their own bathrooms.
Four-star hotels will have a night
bar; also 80 per cent of their
rooms will have en suite bath-
Château De Havixhorst (see p400) in De Schiphorst rooms, and all of them have
A typical boat restaurant in South Holland



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from spring until autumn or
further afield from late spring
until early autumn. On the coast
and on the islands, any month
other than July or August is
considered off-season.
Bookings can be made directly
with the hotel by telephone or
email, or in person at the recep-
tion, although this often means
you pay the standard room price,
which is usually higher than the
more competitive rates found
online. Unless a hotel or chain
offers a “best rate guarantee”
when booking through their
Colourful decor at Harbour Crane (see p399), Harlingen website, the lowest rates are
often found through dedicated
telephones. A five-star hotel will be specifically stated. If not, do hotel-booking websites like
belong to the deluxe category, check, as breakfast in a luxury Expedia.nl, Hotels.nl and
with 24-hour service, large hotel can be expensive. Booking.com. The best way of
rooms with en-suite facilities, Obviously, a five-star hotel is searching for individual hotels
a restaurant and so on. pricier than a three-star. Hotels or a particular chain is by name.
Although this classification in larger cities, in Amsterdam in The price differences found on
system does provide an insight particular, are relatively more different websites for the same
into the hotel’s level of amenities, expensive than those further room in the same hotel at the
it looks exclusively only at the afield, although in the city it is same dates can be astounding;
facilities and amenities provided easier to find hotels in wider- it pays to compare prices
by the hotel. ranging price categories and good through a meta search engine
deals can be found off-season. such as Travelsupermarket.com,
As many hotels have abolished Lookingforbooking.com or
Apartments
dedicated single rooms, solo Hotelscombined.com – the latter
Staying in a self-catering travellers often end up paying also has a clever iPhone app.
apartment or holiday home only slightly less than the same No-frills hotels, such as
is an increasingly popular accommodation would cost two CitizenM, Yotel, Qbic and
alternative to hotels or hostels people sharing. Kids under the easyHotel, that offer tiny yet
and can be an economical choice, age of 12 can usually stay free of smart rooms at the lowest
particularly if you are travelling charge or at a much reduced rate, possible price, can usually be
in a group. Accommodation if they share their parents’ room. booked only through their
ranges from a private room in own respective websites.
the countryside with basic and Stayokay hostels can be
sometimes shared facilities to Booking Accommodation booked through their own
a sleek city loft with five-star High season runs pretty much website, Stayokay.nl, while a
amenities. Some apartments year-round in Amsterdam. In wider choice of International
might require a minimum stay, winter, with the exception of Youth Hostel Federation (IYHF)
especially in high season, and it Christmas and New Year’s, visitors and non-IYHF hostels around
is always a good idea to inquire will manage to find a room, but the country can be booked
if there are any additional or at all other times it is wise to through Hostels.com,
hidden fees, such as key money book well in advance. In other Hostelbookers.com or
or cleaning cost. On the coast major cities, high season runs Hostelworld.com.
and on the islands there are Many B&Bs can
“apartment-hotels”, which are be booked through
apartment buildings with hotel Bedand breakast.nl.
facilities, such as a reception, Airbnb.nl offers an
restaurant and swimming pool. equally wide range
of B&Bs, plus private
rooms, apartments
Prices and holiday homes.
Room prices always include The “VVV” tourist
VAT (‘BTW’). Tourist tax information offices
(toeristenbelasting) varies by around the country
municipality and is often but can also assist visitors
not always included. Breakfast is in booking suitable
often included, but this should Façade of Stempels (see p397) in Haarlem accommodation.




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390  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


steps and stairs prevent this.
Hotels that do have wheelchair
access, but no lifts, will have
some accessible rooms on the
ground floor. Some websites,
like Hotels.com and Booking.
com, allow you to search for
or filter by hotels with facilities
for people with disabilities.
However, it is always best to
consult the hotel directly before
you book.
Gay Hotels
The days of Amsterdam being
The bar of the Hotel Van der Werff (see p398) on Schiermonnikoog the “gay capital of Europe” may
be gone, according to many
Payment theme; for example, a cycling locals, but the city still has a
Major credit cards are accepted or rambling package may lot to offer to gay and lesbian
at almost every hotel. If you include cycle hire, or a wellness travellers. A number of hotels
provide your credit card details package may include a couple’s cater exclusively to gay guests,
at the time of booking, it is massage at the hotel spa. Such of which the Amistad, with its
usually used as a guarantee and packages can be an economical fresh interior and smart rooms,
your card will not be actually choice. Packages can be booked and Quentin Golden Bear
charged until checkout. through the hotel booking Hotel, with comfortable rooms
However, advance payment websites mentioned in the (although some with shared
may be required in some cases, directory. Attractive deals can facilities), are great choices.
for example when booking at also be found through group Then there is a choice of
a highly discounted rate or deal websites like Groupon.com hotels that are regarded as
special package, in which case and LivingSocial.com, although gay-friendly by the International
your credit card will be charged you need to be flexible, as the Gay & Lesbian Travel Association
immediately. Most hotels will timeframes for booking and (Iglta.org), including the hip
charge a no-show fee, up to travelling are usually limited. Lloyd and the posh Grand. No
or even extending the full room hotel in Amsterdam would turn
rate, if you do not show up Travellers with away a same-sex couple, but
without prior cancellation. another particularly welcoming
As always, watch out for any Disabilities lodging, that is popular with
hidden charges, especially Many large hotels are fully women, is the Quentin.
when using the “express accessible for wheelchairs. At gay tourist information
checkout” service that many Smaller hotels may be less centres, such as Gaytic on
hotels offer. accessible, particularly those Spuistraat, visitors can pick
in historic buildings where up a free gay tourist kit and
Discounts
Many hotels and chains offer
“early bird” discounts for rooms
booked well in advance. Hotels
that cater mainly to business
travellers during the week, will
often offer discounts to leisure
travellers over the weekend
and conversely, hotels that are
usually full with tourists at the
weekends may offer reductions
on weekdays.

Packages
Many hotels offer special
packages of one or two nights,
with breakfast and dinner
included. These packages are
often based on a particular InterContinental Amstel (see p397) in Amsterdam (right), with its picturesque location




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get more information on
gay-friendly hotels as well
as the gay scene in the city.

Recommended Hotels
The hotels listed on pages
396–401 vary significantly in
both class and cost, and are
considered the best choice in
terms of price, charm or location.
To help you find accommodation
that suits your personal taste,
we have divided the entries into
six categories: Charming, Hotels
with Character, Historic, Family- Grand Hotel de Kromme Raake (see p399) in Eenrum, with a traditional in-built bed
friendly, Design and Luxury.
Some hotels are better than cube houses or a hotel that also gain a memorable experience.
others and a few stand out for consists of individually decorated These highly recommended
a particular reason, such as a rooms spread out over several hotels are marked as “DK Choice”.
romantic atmosphere, a fantastic private homes, to a deluxe suite The “DK Choice” hotels are extra
spa or a stunning location. For in a converted Ilyushin airliner special. These hotels may have
each region we have handpicked or a room with a dazzling view above ave rage standards, or a
one such exceptional lodging, in a dockside crane. Here you breath taking location, or they
ranging from an inexpensive will not only be guaranteed a may simply have a charm that
hostel in a bunch of peculiar comfortable night’s sleep, but sets them apart.

DIRECTORY
Hotel Types Compare prices Gay Hotels Sir Albert
Stayokay ∑ travelsuper Gaytic Information Albert Cuypstraat 2,
∑ stayokay.com market.com Centre De Pijp, 1072 CT
Hotel Chains ∑ lookingfor Spuistraat 44 Amsterdam.
1012 DV Amsterdam.
booking.nl Tel (020) 305 3020.
Best Western ∑ hotelscombined.com Tel (020) 330 1461 ∑ siralberthotel.com
∑ bestwestern.nl ∑ gaytic.nl
Golden Tulip Dutch Tourist Office Hotel Amistad
∑ goldentulip.com ∑ holland.com Kerkstraat 42
Hilton Hostel booking 1017 GM Amsterdam.
∑ hilton.com/ Tel (020) 624 8074.
netherlands websites ∑ amistad.nl
∑ stayokay.com
Holiday Inn Quentin Amsterdam
∑ holidayinn.nl ∑ hostels.com Hotel
Mercure ∑ hostelbookers.com Leidsekade 89
∑ mercure.com ∑ hostelworld.com
1017 PN Amsterdam.
NH Hotels Hotel booking Tel (020) 626 2187.
∑ nh-hotels.com
websites ∑ quentinamsterdam.
Radisson Blu ∑ hotels.nl com
∑ radissonblu.com
∑ booking.com Quentin Golden Bear
Booking ∑ expedia.nl Hotel
Accommodation Kerkstraat 37
VVV Netherlands BV
B&B booking Umbrella organisation for 1017 GB Amsterdam.
websites Tel (020) 624 4785.
∑ bedandbreakfast.nl Dutch tourist offices. ∑ quentingolden
∑ airbnb.com ∑ vvv.nl bear.com





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392  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Bungalow Parks
SCHIERMONNIKOOG
The Netherlands has at least 350 holiday villages DUINPARK AMELAND
DE BLIEKE
(“bungalowparken”), with dozens to hundreds of bungalows TERSCHELLING CREATIEF NATUURDORP
or cabins, many designed for four to eight persons, together W E S T F R I S I A N BOOMHIEMKE SUYDEROOGH
with numerous facilities such as supermarkets and restaurants. I S L A N D S G R O N I N G E N
They also provide many recreation facilities, some open-air and VLIELAND Groningen
others indoors for days when the weather is not at its best. SLUFTERVALLEI Leeuwarden
KRIM
Rental is by the week, midweek or weekend, with arrival and PARC TEXEL TEXEL IT WIID
departure on set days. The parks are often situated in areas of CALIFORNIË CREATIEF BEACH F R I E S L A N D
natural beauty and offer plenty to do in the surrounding area. PARK TEXEL WITTERZOMER
A selection of the best parks in the country is given here. DE POTTEN PARC STADSKANAAL
DE ROGGEBERG Assen
PARC BORGER
BOSMEER
DE NOORDSTER AELDERHOLT
D R E N T H E HET ZUIDERVELD
N O R T H VAKANTIEPARK
DE WILTZANGH
H O L L A N D DE HUTTENHEUGTE
0 kilometres 40
HET STOETENSLAGH
0 miles 40 O V E R I J S S E L
Lelystad Zwolle CREATIEF VILLAPARK
F L E V O L A N D DE VLEGGE
AMSTERDAM HOOGWOLDE GERNER HOGE HEXEL
ZANDVOORT DE JAGERSTEE B.C. HELLENDOORN
Haarlem PARC EPE ZILVERBERK HELLENDOORN
Efteling Village Bosrijk DE EEMHOF SALLANDSHOEVE
This leafy holiday park is set in woodland LANDGOED
next to the country’s biggest theme park. SOLLASI HEIHAAS ZEEWOLDE 'T LOO VAKANTIEPARK
DE PRINS
TWENHAARSVELD
Cottages sleep six to eight, while RABBIT HILL RUIGHENRODE
apartments (in a faux manor house 'T EEKHOORNNEST ELDORADO PARC
or gatehouse) have room for four. Den Haag U T R E C H T MIGGELENBERG BEEKBERGEN 'T STIEN 'N BOER
HEIDEHEUVEL
KIJKDUINPARK
Utrecht
HET GROTE BOS COLDENHOVE
S O U T H G E L D E R L A N D
H O L L A N D GINKELDUIN Arnhem 'T ZONNETJE
Rotterdam
TOPPERSHOEDJE
PORT ZÉLANDE
DUINOORD PARK PORT GREVE SCHUTTERSOORD
PARC EFTELING ’s-Hertogenbosch
BURGH-HAAMSTEDE DROOMRIJK HET HEIJDERBOS
N O O R D - B R A B A N T
DE SCHOTSMAN
DE ROSEP
Middelburg ARCEN
BRABANTS
Port Zélande HOF VAN ZEELAND DE FLAASBLOEM BOERDERIJDORP LOOHORST G E R M A N Y
This Mediterranean-style ZWARTVEN HET MEERDAL
CenterParcs Park at Lake ZEEBAD PARC
VLIERDEN
Grevelingen features numerous PANNENSCHUUR Z E E L A N D HET VENNENBOS
recreation facilities and B E L G I U M DE KEMPERVENNEN
comfortable bungalows. DE LOMMERBERGEN
WEERTERBERGEN
L I M B U R G
HOMMELHEIDE
De Flaasbloem Maastricht
The initially (and still SIMPELVELD
mildly) Christian RCN DE MECHELERHOF
recreation parks offer HOOG VAALS
relatively inexpensive
bungalows and plenty
to do for children.
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WHERE T O ST A Y  393


Key and Contact Details
SCHIERMONNIKOOG Europarcs (088-0708090)
DUINPARK
DE BLIEKE AMELAND Zilverberk (zilverberkvakanties.nl)
TERSCHELLING CREATIEF NATUURDORP CenterParcs (0900-6606600)
W E S T F R I S I A N BOOMHIEMKE SUYDEROOGH
I S L A N D S Landal GreenParks (070-3003506)
G R O N I N G E N
VLIELAND Groningen Holidaypark Molke (0584-512743)
SLUFTERVALLEI Leeuwarden RCN-recreatiecentra (0343-513547)
KRIM IT WIID
PARC TEXEL TEXEL Hogenboom Vakantieparken
(0900-2002002)
CALIFORNIË CREATIEF BEACH F R I E S L A N D
PARK TEXEL Other parks
WITTERZOMER
DE POTTEN PARC STADSKANAAL
DE ROGGEBERG Assen
PARC BORGER
BOSMEER
DE NOORDSTER AELDERHOLT
D R E N T H E HET ZUIDERVELD
N O R T H VAKANTIEPARK
DE WILTZANGH
H O L L A N D DE HUTTENHEUGTE
HET STOETENSLAGH
O V E R I J S S E L
Lelystad Zwolle CREATIEF VILLAPARK
F L E V O L A N D DE VLEGGE
AMSTERDAM HOOGWOLDE GERNER HOGE HEXEL
ZANDVOORT DE JAGERSTEE B.C. HELLENDOORN
Haarlem DE EEMHOF PARC EPE ZILVERBERK HELLENDOORN
SALLANDSHOEVE
LANDGOED
SOLLASI ZEEWOLDE 'T LOO VAKANTIEPARK
HEIHAAS DE PRINS
TWENHAARSVELD
RABBIT HILL RUIGHENRODE
'T EEKHOORNNEST ELDORADO PARC
Den Haag U T R E C H T MIGGELENBERG BEEKBERGEN 'T STIEN 'N BOER
KIJKDUINPARK HEIDEHEUVEL
Utrecht
HET GROTE BOS COLDENHOVE
S O U T H G E L D E R L A N D
H O L L A N D GINKELDUIN Arnhem 'T ZONNETJE
Rotterdam
TOPPERSHOEDJE
PORT ZÉLANDE
Aqua Mundo
DUINOORD PARK PORT GREVE SCHUTTERSOORD The spectacular subtropical paradise
PARC EFTELING ’s-Hertogenbosch at De Eemhof (and other CenterParcs)
BURGH-HAAMSTEDE DROOMRIJK HET HEIJDERBOS
N O O R D - B R A B A N T offers a wonderful and wet time for all.
DE SCHOTSMAN
DE ROSEP
Middelburg ARCEN
DE FLAASBLOEM BRABANTS G E R M A N Y
HOF VAN ZEELAND BOERDERIJDORP LOOHORST
ZWARTVEN
HET MEERDAL
ZEEBAD PARC
VLIERDEN
PANNENSCHUUR Z E E L A N D HET VENNENBOS
DE KEMPERVENNEN
DE LOMMERBERGEN
B E L G I U M
WEERTERBERGEN
L I M B U R G
HOMMELHEIDE
Maastricht
SIMPELVELD
DE MECHELERHOF
HOOG VAALS
Landal Hoog Vaals
In the rolling landscape of Limburg, Landal combines
beautiful countryside with a plethora of activities.
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394  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Camping

Many people regard camping as the ideal way to take a holiday.
It is inexpensive, you are out in the open air, often in beautiful
natural locations. Camping comes in many shapes and sizes:
settling in one place for the whole holiday or hopping from one
campsite to the next; you can camp in a tent, a caravan, a tent-
trailer or a camper van; you can camp in nature, on a farm or in
a holiday park. The Netherlands, with its many different types of
campsites, has something for everyone.
accommodation.
The advantage of
renting, of course, is
that you travel lighter.
Nature Camping De Roos campsite at Beerze, located on the
Dutch law prohibits River Vecht
rough camping –
ie off designated 130-plus official natural
campsites. However, camping sites.
there are plenty of The campsites of the
Camping at one of Holland’s many nature sites campsites that give Vereniging Gastvrije
you a true sense Landgoederen combine
Types of Campsite of camping in nature. These the attraction of natural
Campsites in the Netherlands natural campsites, natuur­ surroundings with that of
fall into two main categories. kampeerterreinen, are small- cultural history. These sites
There are natuurterreinen, scale and often situated in are situated on private estates,
(nature sites), which are small or scenic locations, with plenty usually on the grounds of a
medium-sized campsites with of countryside around for castle or stately home. The
basic facilities, often situated in exploring on foot or by association’s 20-odd sites are
the most spectacular country- bicycle. You can pitch a tent distinguished by their peace,
side that the Netherlands has to or park your caravan, tent- atmosphere and spaciousness,
offer. The other group consists trailer or camper here. There and offer abundant oppor-
of larger campsites with a good are no fixed pitches, sanitary tunities for rambling, cycling
range of facilities, often near arrangements are fairly basic or horse riding.
recreation areas or other attrac- but good, and there is usually Camping on a farm means you
tions. Both types of campsite a children’s play area. Staying will be assured of a tranquil rural
are to be found throughout the here requires a membership atmosphere. There are hundreds
Netherlands, and on both you card from Stichting Natuur­ of VeKaBo farm campsites,
can either set up your own tent kampeerterreinen, which usually small and with limited
and caravan or you can rent includes a booklet listing all facilities, but offering a variety of



















Camping in Zeeland, popular among Dutch and foreign holidaymakers alike




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experiences; you will often be
able to help the farmers feed
the animals, milk the cows or
harvest the crops.
Another excellent way of
experiencing the countryside
is by using hikers’ cabins,
trekkershutten, designed for
use by walkers on multiple-
day hiking-trips. They offer
basic accommodation for up
to four people and are often
situated at campsites whose
facilities are available to the
hikers. Bring your own kitchen
utensils and bedding.
Large Family Campsites Hanging the laundry to dry among the fragrant blossoming trees
Large family campsites or The largest campsites recreation facilities such as
gezinscampings are popular have extensive sanitary tennis courts, mini-golf and
among Dutch holidaymakers facilities and hot water. They so on.
taking a break in their own also provide electrical hook- The Dutch Automobile Club,
country. Social life is an ups for caravans, as well as ANWB, has awarded the best
important aspect of these running water and sewage campsites in Europe with their
campsites, with plenty of connections. Campsite shops quality label “Best Camping”.
opportunities to meet your mean that you can do most These offer an exceptionally
fellow campers through an of your shopping on-site, and great terrain with large pitches,
abundance of activities, such if you don’t feel like cooking extensive facilities and terrific
as barbecues, karaoke, games, your own food, there is often service. Over thirty such
competitions and sports a restaurant or snack bar. campsites are located in the
events. Children also get to Launderettes and dry-cleaning Netherlands, and are listed in
meet others of their age and services are also often their camping guides and online,
there is plenty of room for available. Many have a albeit in Dutch only: www.
running around and playing. swimming pool and other anwb.nl/vakantie/camping.
DIRECTORY
Nature Camping SVR (Stichting Vrije Guides ∑ alanrogers.com
Recreatie) ∑ europe-camping-
Vereniging Gastvrije ANWB online
∑ svr.nl guide.com/en/list/
Landgoederen booking netherlands
Trekkershutten ∑ anwbcamping.nl/
Tel 0318-578555. ∑ eurocampings.eu/
∑ gastvrije Tel 030-6033701. nederland.html en/europe/netherlands
∑ trekkershutten.nl (Dutch only)
landgoederen.nl
VeKaBo (Vereniging ANWB Voordeel
Karaktervolle Groene Campinggids 1 & 2
van Kampeerboeren)
Campings Both list hundreds
Tel 0900-3336668.
∑ kgc.nl of campsites in the
∑ vekabo.nl
Nivon Netherlands, and
Natuurvrienden Family Campsites thousands in the rest
of Europe (Dutch only).
∑ nivon.nl Roompot Parken
Online camping
Stichting Natuur­ Tel 0113-374297. guides
kampeerterreinen ∑ roompot.nl Lists over 750 campsites
Tel 030-6033701. Vacansoleil inspected by the ANWB.
∑ natuur Tel 0900-9899. ∑ en.camping.info/
kampeerterreinen.nl ∑ vacansoleil.nl netherlands




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396  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

Western Canal Ring Price Guide
Amsterdam The Times Hotel €€ Prices are based on one night’s stay
Oude Zijde Waterside Map 1 C4 in high season in a standard double
room, inclusive of VAT, tourist tax and
Herengracht 135–137, 1015 BG
The Grand €€€ Tel (020) 330 6030 service charge.
Luxury Map 5 A1 ∑ thetimeshotel.nl € up to €100
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197, 1012 EX Set in combined canal houses €€ €100 to €180
over €180
€€€
Tel (020) 555 3111 dating from 1650, this hotel
∑ sofitel.com blends modern comfort with
A World Travel award nominee, old Dutch tradition. three gardens, a restaurant, bar
The Grand has a lush courtyard and wine salon. Guests can take
enclosed by a 17th-century town The Dylan €€€ saloon boat tours of the canals.
hall. Rooms have modern decor. Luxury Map 1 B5
Keizersgracht 384, 1016 GB Eastern Canal Ring
DK Choice Tel (020) 530 2010
∑ dylanamsterdam.com
Hôtel Droog €€€ Refined and tasteful, each room DK Choice
Hotels with Character Map 5 A2 and suite at The Dylan is unique.
Staalstraat 7B, 1011 JJ Michelin-starred restaurant. Banks Mansion €€€
Tel (020) 523 5059 Waterside Map 5 A2
∑ hoteldroog.com The Toren €€€ Herengracht 519–525, 1017 BV
Hôtel Droog’s designers offer Luxury Map 1 C4 Tel (020) 420 0055
a hospitality experience with a Keizersgracht 164, 1015 CZ ∑ carlton.nl/banksmansion
twist. There’s only one room here Tel (020) 622 6352 This monumental former bank-
but with a few extras – an art ∑ thetoren.nl cum-canal mansion is a Travellers’
gallery, beauty salon, fashion This Travellers’ Choice award Choice award winner. Rooms
boutique, indoor garden, tea winner features garden-side are lovely, with Frank Lloyd
room/café and design store. suites with two-person Jacuzzis. Wright-inspired decor.
Everything is included in the
price: breakfast, movies, self-
misc eatdrinksleep €€€ Central Canal Ring service bar, even iPad loans.
Waterside Map 5 A1 Acostar Hotel €€
Kloveniersburgwal 20, 1012 CV Charming Map 4 E1
Tel (020) 330 6241 Kerkstraat 45–49, 1017 GB
∑ misceatdrinksleep.com Tel (020) 330 0242 Museum Quarter
Six miscellaneously-themed rooms ∑ acostarhotel.com Stayokay City
(e.g. Rembrandt, Baroque) offer Located near Leidseplein, this Hostel Vondelpark €
amenities such as rain showers, hotel offers 30 rooms on five floors. Family-friendly Map 4 D2
espresso machines or free minibar. Bike hire and laundry service. Zandpad 5, 1054 GA
Tel (020) 589 8996
€€€
Nieuwe Zijde Hotel Pulitzer Map 1 B5 ∑ stayokay.com/vondelpark
This sprawling hostel offers great-
Luxury
Hotel Des Arts €€ Prinsengracht 315, 1016 GZ value rooms ranging from 20-
Family-friendly Map 4 F1 Tel (020) 523 5235 bed dorms to double rooms.
Rokin 154–156, 1012 LE ∑ pulitzeramsterdam.com
Tel (020) 620 1558 Stay in 17th- and 18th-century Conscious Hotel
∑ hoteldesarts.nl restored canal houses. There are Museum Square €€€
Intimate single, family and group Design Map 4 D4
rooms are on offer here; some De Lairessestraat 7, 1071 NR
with lovely canal views. Tel (020) 671 9596
∑ conscioushotels.com
Hotel Sint Nicolaas €€ An eco-friendly “Green Key” gold
Hotels with Character Map 2 D4 certificate holder, this modern
Spuistraat 1A, 1012 SP hotel features a gorgeous garden.
Tel (020) 626 1384
∑ hotelnicolaas.nl DK Choice
Housed in a former harbour
office and mattress factory, this Conservatorium €€€
quirky hotel has oddly-shaped en- Luxury Map 4 D3
suite rooms. Breakfast included. Van Baerlestraat 27, 1071 AN
Tel (020) 570 0000
DoubleTree €€€ ∑ conservatoriumhotel.com
Business Map 2 F4 Housed in a former music
Oosterdoksstraat 4, 1011 DK conservatory, the space has
Tel (020) 530 0800 been imaginatively reused. It has
∑ doubletree3.hilton.com high ceilings and a beautiful
This large hotel with harbour views atrium designed by Piero Lissoni.
features 16 conference halls, free Almost half the rooms are
Wi-Fi, remote printing facilities, Brick exterior of Hôtel Droog duplexes, with amazing views.
fitness rooms and a DVD library. in Amsterdam
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WHERE T O ST A Y  397

Plantage HAARLEM: Stempels €€
Historic Map B3
Hermitage €€ Klokhuisplein 9, 2011 HK
Waterside Map 5 B3 Tel (023) 512 3910
Nieuwe Keizersgracht 16, 1018 DR ∑ stempelsinhaarlem.nl
Tel (020) 623 8259 Once the venue for the royal
∑ hotelhermitageamsterdam.com banknotes printing company,
A converted 1733 canal house the building is now home to
with a garden, Hermitage is a Stempels, a boutique hotel with
good option for groups or families. modern amenities.
DK Choice HEEMSKERK: Stayokay Map B3 €
Historic
Amsterdam House €€€ Tolweg 9, 1967 NG
Family-friendly Map 5 A2 Tel (0251) 232 288
‘s-Gravelandse Veer 3–4, 1011 KM ∑ stayokay.com
Tel (020) 626 2577 Enjoy the experience of staying Simple, subtle decor at Stempels hotel
∑ amsterdamhouse.com in a medieval castle with turrets, in Haarlem
Enjoy a true Amsterdam on-the- towers, moat and gar dens at this
water experience. Stay on a hostel. Shared and private rooms. UTRECHT: Mary K €€
houseboat with a well-equipped Bike rental service. Charming Map C4
kitchen and bathrooms. Rooms Oudegracht 25, 3511 AB
and apartment are warm, bright, DK Choice Tel (030) 230 4888
modern, and great for groups. ∑ marykhotel.com
ZAANDAM: Inntel €€ Located at the quiet end of the
Design Map B3 Oudegracht, the quirky Mary K
InterContinental Amstel Provincialeweg 102, 1506 MD offers rooms of all sizes, each
Amsterdam €€€ Tel (075) 631 1711 designed by a local artist.
Luxury Map 5 B4 ∑ inntelhotels.nl
Professor Tulpplein 1, 1018 GX The unique building of this DK Choice
Tel (020) 622 6060 four-star hotel resembles the
∑ amsterdam.intercontinental.com famous wooden houses of UTRECHT: Dom €€€
This rock star favourite offers the nearby Zaanse Schans. Design Map C4
great views over the Amstel The contemporary rooms are Domstraat 4, 3512 JB
river. First class service. Michelin- inspired by the town’s history Tel (030) 232 4242
starred restaurant. or pay homage to its residents. ∑ hoteldom.nl
Contemporary restyling has
Further Afield ZUIDOOSTBEEMSTER: Fort transformed this 18th-century
building into a luxury hotel.
Lloyd Hotel €€ Resort Beemster €€ Stay in one of their state-of-
Hotels with Character Hotels with Character Map C3 the-art rooms with Auping
Oostelijke Handelskade 34, 1019 BN Nekkerweg 24, 1461 LC beds, Nespresso machines
Tel (020) 561 3636 Tel (0299) 682 200 and yoga mats. The hotel also
∑ lloydhotel.com ∑ fortresortbeemster.nl has a coveted restaurant and
Rooms vary from simple to luxur- This hotel is housed in a historic a cocktail bar out of a Bond
ious at this industrial-chic hotel building that was once a part of movie. Quite an experience.
located in a former borstal. Unique the Defence Line of Amsterdam,
focus on culture and events. a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Great spa and wellness facilities. ZEIST: Kasteel Kerckebosch €€
Historic Map C4
Arnhemse Bovenweg 31, 3708 AA
North Holland Tel (030) 692 6666
Utrecht ∑ kasteelkerckebosch.nl
BERGEN AAN ZEE: Blooming €€ This castle in the woods has
Design Map B3 AMERONGEN: Buitenlust € modern rooms and an excellent
Duinweg 5, 1861 GL Charming Map C4 restaurant. Amenities include bike
Tel (072) 582 0520 Burg Jhr H v d Boschstraat 13, 3958 CA rental and packed lunch boxes.
∑ blooming-hotels.com Tel (0343) 451 692
This hip hotel is set in 11 ha ∑ buitenlust-amerongen.nl
(27 acres) of private woodland and Located near Utrechtse Heuvelrug
dunes. Rooms range from tiny National Park, Buitenlust is a great South Holland
singles to bright and airy suites. option to explore the surrounding
area. Cheerful, spacious rooms. DELFT: De Bieslandse
BROEK IN WATERLAND: Inn on Heerlijkheid €€
the Lake €€ AMERSFOORT: Logies Charming Map B4
Charming Map C3 de Tabaksplant € Klein Delfgauw 61, 2616 LC
Kerkplein 11, 1151 AH Historic Map C4 Tel (015) 310 7126
Tel (020) 331 8573 Coninckstraat 15, 3811 WD ∑ bieslandseheerlijkheid.nl
∑ innonthelake.nl Tel (033) 472 9797 Surrounded by acres of polderland,
Housed in a former vicarage dating ∑ tabaksplant.nl this rustic B&B is set in a converted
back to the 17th century, this B&B Rooms are spread over several farmhouse. The main building
offers four uniquely-styled rooms medieval buildings, with a lovely has four comfortable rooms, plus
with five-star amenities. restaurant and courtyard. a cosy garden house.
For more information on types of hotels see page 391
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398  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SINT MAARTENSDIJK: Kom! €€
Charming Map B5
Markt 58, 4695 CH
Tel (0166) 663 000
∑ hotelkom.nl
Behind a 16th-century façade is
a boutique hotel with modern
rooms. Good, affordable restaurant.
SLUIS: Gasthof d’Ouwe
Schuure €
Charming Map A5
St Annastraat 191, 4524 JH
Tel (0117) 462 232
∑ ouweschuure.nl
This B&B on the Belgian border
has seven rooms and a farm-
Tables awaiting diners at the lovely “market café” at Villa Augustus, Dordrecht house converted into a restaurant.
DORDRECHT: Villa Augustus €€
Design Map B4 Zeeland
Oranjelaan 7, 3311 DH West Frisian Islands
Tel (078) 639 3111 CADZANDBAD: De
∑ villa-augustus.nl Blanke Top
A boutique hotel housed in a Family-friendly Map A5 DK Choice
castle-like water tower, this place Boulevard de Wielingen 1, 4506 JH
offers great views, a huge garden, Tel (0117) 392 040 AMELAND: Nobel €€
a “market café” and a restaurant. ∑ blanketop.nl Design Map C1
Pretty views at this resort are as Gerrit Kosterweg 16, Ballum
DK Choice inviting as the delectable food at 9162 EN
its fine-dining restaurant. There’s
Tel (0519) 554 157
ROTTERDAM: Stayokay € an ongoing renovation, but the ∑ hotelnobel.nl
Hotels with Character Map B4 main building remains open. Stay in stylish, futuristic-looking
Overblaak 85–87, 3011 MH rooms at this smart contem-
Tel (010) 436 5763 DOMBURG: Hotel ter Duyn €€ porary hotel. It also has a fine-
∑ stayokay.com Charming Map A5 dining restaurant – a modern
Located in the Cube Houses built PJ Eloutstraat 1, 4357 AH take on the old brown café, a
by Piet Blom in the 1980s, this Tel (0118) 584 400 liquor store with an impressive
hotel looks distinctly quirky. The ∑ hotelterduyn.nl wine list and its own distillery.
comfortable rooms, however, Just a stone’s throw away from
ensure a pleasant stay. There are the beach, this pleasant hotel
cafés and restaurants nearby, has suites only, each with a SCHIERMONNIKOOG: Van
along with good transport links. small kitchen. der Werff €€
Historic Map D1
KRUININGEN: Manoir Reeweg 2, 9166 PX
ROTTERDAM: SS Rotterdam €€ Inter Scaldes €€€ Tel (0519) 531 203
Design Map B4 Luxury Map B5 ∑ hotelvanderwerff.nl
3e Katendrechtsehoofd 25, 3072 AM Zandweg 2, 4416 NA This legendary inn, reached by
Tel (010) 297 3090 Tel (0113) 381 753 ferry and vintage omnibus, has
∑ ssrotterdam.nl ∑ interscaldes.eu neat, modern rooms on offer.
Holland America Line’s former This Relais & Châteaux member
flagship, SS Rotterdam is now has 12 stylish rooms in a TERSCHELLING: Stayokay €
a floating hotel in 1950s style. thatched villa, and a Michelin- Charming Map C1
starred restaurant. ‘t Land 2, West Terschelling, 8881 GA
SCHEVENINGEN: Strandhotel € Tel (0562) 442 338
Charming Map B4 DK Choice ∑ stayokay.com
Zeekant 111, 2586 JJ Enjoy pleasant views of the
Tel (070) 354 0193 MIDDELBURG: Aan Wadden Sea from this hostel
∑ strandhotel-scheveningen.nl de Dam €€ situated on a dune top. Shared
This small, family-run hotel on Historic Map A5 and private rooms. Good for biking.
the beach features basic budget Dam 31, 4331 GE
rooms and pleasant sea-view Tel (0118) 643 773 TERSCHELLING: Sandton
rooms. Picnic baskets available. ∑ hotelaandedam.nl Paal 8 aan Zee €€€
Originally built in the 17th Luxury Map C1
THE HAGUE: Mozaic €€ century, this historic mansion Badweg West 4, West Terschelling,
Design Map B4 now houses a charming hotel 8881 HG
Laan Copes van Cattenburch 38–40, with guest rooms that recall Tel (0562) 449 090
2585 GB the Golden Age. Contemporary ∑ sandton.eu/nl/terschelling
Tel (070) 352 2335 furnishings complement Well-furnished rooms with great
∑ mozaic.nl the vintage ambience of the views await visitors at this four-
Stay in trendy, well-appointed tastefully decorated rooms. star resort on a dune top. Pool,
rooms in this boutique hotel set Enthusiastic staff. sauna and bike rentals are
in an elegant neighbourhood. among the amenities offered.
Key to Price Guide see page 396
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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Listings template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 19th February 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm