(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

EYEWITNES S TRAVEL

Italy






































































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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL

Italy






































































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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL

Italy






































































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Project Editor Fiona Wild
Art Editors Vanessa Courtier, Annette Jacobs
Editors Francesca Machiavelli, Sophie Introducing Italy Northeast Italy
Martin, Helen Townsend, Nicky Tyrrell
Designers Jo Doran, Anthea Forlee, Paul
Jackson, Marisa Renzullo Discovering Italy 10 Introducing Northeast
Main Contributors Italy 80
Ros Belford, Susie Boulton, Christopher Putting Italy on
Catling, Sam Cole, Paul Duncan, the Map 18 Venice 88
Olivia Ercoli, Andrew Gumbel, Tim Jepson,
Ferdie McDonald, Jane Shaw
A Portrait of Italy 24 Venice Street Finder 130
Maps
Lovell Johns Ltd., Dorling Kindersley
Cartography The History of Italy 46 The Veneto and Friuli 142
Photographer
John Heseltine Italy Through the Year 70 Trentino-Alto Adige 170
Illustrators
Stephen Conlin, Donati Giudici Associati srl,
Stephen Gyapay, Roger Hutchins, Northwest Italy Central Italy
Maltings Partnership, Simon Roulstone, Paul
Weston, John Woodcock
Printed and bound in China Introducing Northwest Introducing Central
First published in the UK in 1996 by Dorling Italy 182 Italy 250
Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Lombardy 190 Emilia-Romagna 258
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Reprinted with revisions 1997, 1999, Valle d’Aosta and Florence 274
2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005,
2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, Piedmont 214
2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017 Florence Street Finder
Copyright 1996, 2017 © Dorling Kindersley Liguria 234 311
Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company Tuscany 318
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored in Umbria 352
or introduced into a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means
(electronic, mechanical, photocopying, Le Marche 368
recording, or otherwise), without the prior
written permission of the copyright
owner and the above publisher of this
book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling
Kindersley Limited
A CIP catalogue record is available
from the British Library.
The Colosseum, Rome
ISBN 978-0-24127-729-4
Floors are referred to throughout in
accordance with European usage;
ie the “first floor” is the floor above The information in this
ground level. DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked annually.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Title page Farmhouse and Cypress Trees, Pienza, Tuscany Front cover image Venetian gondola moored to the Molo, San Marco
Back cover image Panoramic view of historic Assisi in the sunrise

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Contents







Rome and Lazio Southern Italy Survival Guide

Introducing Rome and Introducing Southern Practical Information 614
Lazio 380 Italy 478
Travel Information 624
The Ancient Centre 386 Naples and Campania 486
General Index 636
Around Piazza Abruzzo, Molise and
Navona 400 Puglia 504 Acknowledgments 667
Northeast Rome 410 Basilicata and Phrase Book 671
Calabria 518
The Vatican and
Trastevere 418 Sicily 526
Aventine and Lateran 434 Sardinia 548
Further Afield 442
Travellers’ Needs
Shopping in Rome 447
Entertainment in Where to Stay 558
Rome 449
Where to Eat and Drink
Rome Street Finder 578
451 Shopping in Italy 606
Lazio 464
Entertainment in
Italy 608 A gondola navigating the canals in Venice























Basilica of San Francesco in Assisi




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6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most from your the help of maps and images. Each section
visit to Italy, providing expert recom mend­ is introduced with features on regional
ations as well as detailed practical information. architecture and food specialities. Travellers’
Introducing Italy maps the whole country and Needs gives details of hotels and restaurants
sets it in its historical and cultural context. and the Survival Guide contains practical
The 15 regional chapters, plus Rome, Florence information on everything from transport
and Venice, describe important sights with to personal safety.


Rome ROME AND LAZIO  387
THE ANCIENT CENTRE
The centre of Rome has been The Capitol, the southern summit of the focus of political, social, legal and commercial All pages relating to Rome have
Capitoline Hill, was the symbolic centre of the life; the Imperial Fora, built when Rome’s
divided into five sightseeing Roman world and home to the city’s three most population grew; and the Colosseum, the the same coloured thumb tabs.
important temples. These were dedicated to
centre of entertainment. Overlooking the
Forum is the Palatine Hill, where Romulus
the god Jupiter Optimus Maximus, protector
areas. Each area has its own of Rome, Minerva, goddess of wisdom and is said to have founded Rome in the
war, and Juno Moneta, a guardian goddess.
8th century BC and emperors made their
Below the Capitol lies the Forum, once the
home for over 400 years.
chapter, which opens with Sights at a Glance Historic Piazzas 6 Mamertine Prison
a list of the sights described. Churches 2 Piazza del Campidoglio 7 Forum of Caesar Area Map For easy
8 Roman Forum pp394–6
3 Santa Maria in Aracoeli
9 Colosseum p397
Ancient Sites and Buildings
0 Arch of Constantine
4 Trajan’s Forum and Markets
Museums and Galleries
All the sights are numbered 1 Capitoline Museums pp390–91 5 Forum of Augustus q Palatine pp398–9 1reference, the sights are
and plotted on an area map. VIA NAZIONALE V. MAZZARINO V I A numbered and located
Each sight is presented in V.D. PLEBISCITO VENEZIA PIAZZA VIA IV NOVEMBRE VIA PANISPERNA D E I on a map. The sights are
VIA S. EUFEMIA
PIAZZA
S. MARCO V. S. AGATA DEI GOTI S E R P E N T I
numerical order within the V. S. MARCO V I A A L E S S A N D R I N A VIA TOR DE CONTI V I A B A C C I N A also shown on the Street
V I A M A D O N N A D . M O N T I
chapter, making it easy VIA DI SAN PIETRO IN CARCERE V. CURIA CORRADO LARGO RICCI V I A VIA DE VIA VIA C AV O U R Finder on pages 451–61.
FORO
to locate. V I A D. TEAT R O D I M A R C E L L O VIA DI VILLA CAFFARELLI V . DEL TEMPI O GIOVE ROMANO VIA SACRA CARDELLO L COLOSSEO Colosseo
DI
V I A D E I F O R I I M P E R I A L I
FRANGIPANE VIA DEGLI ANNIBALDI
V. D.
CONSOLAZIONE V. DEL FORO
ROMANO
PIAZZA DEL
COLOSSEO V I A N . S A LV I
V. DEI FIENILI
V I A D I S . T E O D O R O PALATINE CAMPITELLI V. CELIO VIBENNA A locator map shows where you
are in relation to other areas of
Sights at a Glance lists the V I A D E I V I A D I S . G R E G O R I O the city centre.
chapter’s sights by category: C E R C H I
Churches, Museums and 0 metres 250 PIAZZA DI PORTA
CAPENA
Galleries, Historic Buildings, 0 yards 250 See also Rome Street Finder
maps 3, 6, 7, 10
Streets and Piazzas. View of the Colosseum’s Ionic and Corinthian tiers 436  ROME AND LAZIO For keys to symbols see back flap ROME : A VENTINE AND LA TER AN  437
Street-by-Street: Piazza della Bocca della Verità 1 Temples of the
The site of Rome’s first port and its busy cattle Forum Boarium
market, this is an odd little corner of the city, Piazza della Bocca della Verità.
stretching from the heavily trafficked road running along Map 6 E1. Bus 23, 44, 81, 160, 170,
280, 628, 715, 716.
the Tiber to the southern spur of the Capitoline Hill, a place
of execution from ancient times until the Middle Ages. These wonderfully well-
Although best known for the Bocca della Verità (Mouth of preserved Republican-era
Truth) in Santa Maria in Cosmedin, which is supposed to Locator Map temples are at their best in
snap shut on the hands of liars, there are many other sites Santa Maria della Consolazione See Rome Street Finder map 6 moonlight, standing in their
was named after an image of the
grassy enclave beside the Tiber
Street-by-Street Map In the 6th century the area became home to a Greek The Casa dei Crescenzi, studded Virgin placed here in 1385 to give sheltered by umbrella pines.
in the area, notably two temples from the Republican era.
consolation to the
During the day, they look less
community who founded
condemned.
romantic, stranded in a sea
with ancient fragments, incorporates
2This gives a bird’s-eye the churches of San the ruins of a 10th-century tower built of traffic. They date from the
2nd century BC, and were
Giorgio in Velabro and
by the powerful Crescenzi
saved from ruin by being
family to guard the river Tiber.
Santa Maria in Cosmedin.
Sant’Omobono stands consecrated as Christian
view of the heart of 1. Temples of the on an archaeological Ages by the Greek
churches in the Middle
site where finds date
community then living in
back to the 6th century.
Forum Boarium
the area. The rectangular
each sightseeing area. These two buildings are San Teodoro is a the Temple of Fortuna Virilis,
temple, formerly known as
the best preserved of
Rome’s Republican
temples. V I A D E I F I E N I L I circular church on the was probably dedicated to
edge of the Palatine with Portunus, the god of rivers and
exceptional 6th-century ports. Set on a pod-ium it has
apse mosaics. four Ionic travertine columns
fluted at the front and 12 half-
San Giorgio in Velabro, columns embedded in the tufa
a 7th-century basilica, was
wall of the cella – the room that
damaged in an explosion in
housed the image of the god. In
converted into the church of
Stars indicate the sights that L U N G O T E V E R E D E I P I E R L E O N I V I A D I S A N T E O D O R O 1994, and has now been restored. the 9th century the Temple was
Arco degli Argentari
Santa Maria Egiziaca, after
a 5th-century prostitute who
re formed and became a hermit.
no visitor should miss. Ponte Rotto, as this forlorn ruined T E V E R E The smaller circular Temple,
V I A D I S A N G I O VA N N I D E CO L L ATO
which is made of solid marble
arch in the Tiber is called, simply means
columns, was dedicated to
“broken bridge”. Built in the P I A Z Z A D E L L A and surrounded by 20 fluted
2nd century BC, its original name B O C C A D E L L A Hercules, though it was long
was the Pons Aemilius. believed to be a Temple of Vesta
P O N T E P A L A T I N O V E R I T à because of its similarity to the
The Fontana dei Tritoni, one in the Forum.
built by Carlo Bizzaccheri in
1715, shows the strong
influence of Bernini.
2. Santa Maria in Cosmedin
432  ROME AND LAZIO ROME : THE V A TIC AN AND TR ASTE VERE  433 V I A D E I C E R C H I
The Bocca della Verità, a
medieval drain cover, is
set into the portico.
4 Villa Farnesina 6 Botanical Entirely rebuilt in the 1680s
Via della Lungara 230. Map 2 E5. Gardens by Cardinal Pallavicini, the The 4th-century Arch of
Tel 06 68 02 72 68. @ 23, 280. Largo Cristina di Svezia 24. Map 2 D5. Key church is rich in 17th­ and V I A D E L L A G R E C A Janus, a four-
8th­century sculptures. Not to
Open 9am–2pm Mon–Sat. & ^ Tel 06 49 91 71 07. @ 23, 280. Open Suggested route be missed in the Altieri chapel faced marble-plated arch at
9am–6:30pm (Oct–Mar: 5:30pm) the edge of the Forum
The fabulously wealthy Sienese Mon–Sat. Closed public hols. & 8 (fourth left, along the nave) is San Giovanni Decollato Boarium market, was
banker Agostino Chigi 0 metres Bernini’s exquisite late work, belonged to a confraternity that an ideal place for merchants
75
commissioned this villa in 1508 Sequoias, palm trees, orchids the Ecstasy of Beata Ludovica encouraged condemned and customers to do The Ionic façade of the Republican era
from his fellow Sienese and bromeliads are among the 0 yards Albertoni (1674). prisoners to repent. business in the shade. Temple of Portunus
75
Baldassare Peruzzi. Chigi’s main 7,000 plants from all over the
home was across the Tiber, and world represented in the For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–77 and pp580–605
the villa was designed purely for Botanical Gardens (Orto
lavish banquets. Artists, poets, Botanico). Indigenous and
cardinals, princes and the pope exotic species are grouped to
himself were entertained here illustrate their botanical fam ilies
in magnificent style. Chigi and their adaptation to different
also used the villa for sojourns climates and eco systems.
with the courtesan Imperia, Queen Christina of Sweden’s bedroom in There are also some curious Apse mosaic of the Coronation of the Virgin, Santa Maria in Trastevere
who allegedly ins pired one of the Palazzo Corsini plants like the ginkgo that have
the Three Graces painted by survived almost unchanged from the 12th century, and Cambio and the fresco of The A suggested route for a
Raphael in the Loggia of Cupid 5 Palazzo Corsini from earlier eras. show Mary, Christ and ten lamp­ Last Judgment by Pietro Cavallini
and Psyche. and Galleria bearing women. Inside in the can be reached through the
The simple, harmonious Nazionale d’Arte apse is a stylized 12th­century adjoining convent; they date walk is shown in red.
design of the Farnesina, with a Coronation of the Virgin, and from the 13th century, one of
central block and projecting Antica below, a series of realistic scenes the few periods when Rome Bramante’s circular Tempietto at San
wings, made it one of the first Via della Lungara 10. Map 2 D5. from the life of the Virgin by the had a distinctive artistic style. Pietro in Montorio
true villas of the Renaissance. Tel 06 68 80 23 23. @ 23, 280. 13th­century artist Pietro In front of the altar is a delicate
Peruzzi decorated some of Open 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun. Cavallini. The oldest image of statue of St Cecilia by Stefano 0 San Pietro in
the interiors himself, such as Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 8 7 ^ the Virgin is a 7th­century icon, Maderno, which is based on Montorio and the
the Sala della Prospettiva = ∑ galleriaborghese.it the Madonna di Clemenza, sketches made of her perfectly
upstairs, in which the illu­ which depicts her as a preserved relics when they were Tempietto
sionistic frescoes create the Built for Cardinal Domenico Byzantine empress flanked by a briefly disinterred in 1599. P San Pietro in Montorio 2. Map 5 B1.
impression of looking out over Riario in 1510–12, the Palazzo guard of angels. It sits above the Tel 06 581 39 40. @ 44, 75, 115.
16th­century Rome through a Corsini has numbered altar in the Cappella Altemps. 9 San Francesco Open 8:30am–noon daily, 3–4pm
marble colonnade. Bramante, the young Michel­ Mon–Fri. Tempietto Open 9:30am–
Other frescoes, by Sebastiano angelo, Erasmus and the Palm trees in the Botanical a Ripa 12:30pm, 3–4pm Tue–Sat.
del Piombo and Raphael and his mother of Napoleon among its Gardens, Trastevere 8 Santa Cecilia Piazza San Francesco d’Assisi 88.
pupils, illustrate Classical myths, guests. Queen Christina of in Trastevere Map 5 C2. Tel 06 581 90 20. @ H, 23, The Tempietto, a diminutive
while the vault of the main hall, Sweden died here in 1689. The 7 Santa Maria in Piazza di Santa Cecilia. Map 6 D1. 44, 75, 280. Open 7am–1pm, masterpiece of Renaissance
the Sala di Galatea, is adorned palazzo was rebuilt by Tel 06 589 92 89. @ H, 23, 44, 280. 2–7:30pm daily. 7 architecture completed by
with astrological scenes Ferdinando Fuga, who planned Trastevere Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 4–6:30pm Bramante in 1502, stands in the Detailed Information
showing the position of the the façade to be viewed from Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. daily. Cavallini fresco Open 10am– St Francis of Assisi lived here in courtyard of San Pietro in
stars at the time of Chigi’s an angle, as Via della Lungara is Map 5 C1. Tel 06 581 48 02. @ H, 23, 12:30pm Mon–Fri. a hospice when he visited Montorio. The name means
birth. After his death the too narrow for a full frontal view. 280. Open 7:30am–9pm daily. 7 = Rome in 1219 and his stone “little temple” and its circular 3All the sights in Rome are
pillow and crucifix are
business collapsed, and in 1577 When the palazzo was St Cecilia, aristocrat and patron preserved in his cell. The church shape echoes early Christian
the villa was sold off to the bought by the state in 1893, Santa Maria in Trastevere was saint of music, was martyred here martyria, chapels built on the
Farnese family. the Corsini family donated their probably the first Christian place in AD 230. After an unsuccessful was built by a follower, a local site of a saint’s martyrdom. This
collection of paintings, which of worship in Rome, founded by attempt to suffocate her by nobleman called Rodolfo was erroneously thought to be described individually.
formed the core of the national Pope Callixtus I in the locking her in the hot steam Anguillara, who is portrayed on the spot in Nero’s Circus where
art collection, and was soon 3rd century, when emperors bath of her house for three days, Franciscan habit. St Peter was crucified. Bramante
his tombstone wearing the
augmented. The collection is were still pagan and Christianity she was beheaded. A church ringed the chapel with Doric
now split between Palazzo a minority cult. According to was built, possibly in the columns, a Classical frieze and Addresses and practical
Barberini and Palazzo Corsini. legend, it was built on the site 4th century, on the site of her fine balustrade.
Although the best works are in where a fountain of oil had house (still to be seen beneath
the Barberini, there are miraculously sprung up on the the church, along with the information are provided.
paintings by Van Dyck, Rubens, day that Christ was born. The remains of a tannery). Her body
Murillo, and, notably, an basilica became the focus of was lost, but it turned up again
androgynous St John the devotion to the Madonna, and in the Catacombs of San Callisto
Baptist (c.1604) by Caravaggio although today’s church, and its (see p446). In the 9th century it The key to the symbols used
and a Salome (1638) by Reni. remarkable mosaics, date was reburied here by Pope
The strangest work is a portrait largely from the 12th and 13th Paschal I, who rebuilt the
of the rotund Queen Christina centuries, images of the Virgin church. A fine apse mosaic
as the goddess Diana by continue to dominate. The survives from this period. The in the information block is
Raphael’s Three Graces in the Villa Farnesina J Van Egmont. façade mosaics probably date altar canopy by Arnolfo di Bernini’s Ecstasy of Beata Ludovica Albertoni, San Francesco a Ripa
shown on the back flap.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–77 and pp580–605
006-007_EW_Italy.indd 6 26/04/16 4:30 pm

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7


CENTR AL IT AL Y  369 Italy Area by Area
Introduction
LE MARCHE
Tucked away in a remote corner between the Adriatic 1The landscape, history and Apart from Rome, Florence and
Sea and the Apennine mountains, Le Marche (the
Marches) is an enchanting rural patchwork of old towns, character of each region is Venice, Italy has been divided
hill country and long, sandy beaches. In pre-Christian
times the area was settled by the Piceni, a tribe
eventually assimilated by the Romans. described here, showing how into 15 areas, each of which has
In the 4th century BC, exiles from Magna old squares in Italy. Smaller towns the area has developed over
Graecia colonized much of the region. like San Leo and Urbania and the a sep arate chapter. The most
The most notable town was Ancona, repub lic of San Marino also boast fine
also the northernmost point of Greek medieval monuments. the centuries and what it
influence on the Italian peninsula. During Today probably as many people come interesting towns and places
the early Middle Ages the region marked to Le Marche for its beaches and towns as
the edge of the Holy Roman Empire, for its hilly, unspoilt inter ior. Especially offers to the visitor today.
giving rise to its present name (march beautiful are the snowcapped peaks of the to visit have been num bered
meant border area). Monti Sibillini, situated in magnificent
The region’s historical peak was walking and skiing country.
reached in the 15th century under Regional cuisine encompasses the on the section’s Regional Map.
Federico da Montefeltro, whose court at truffles and robust cheeses of the
Urbino became one of Europe’s leading mountains, tender hams and salamis,
cultural centres. Much of Urbino’s former olive ascolane (olives stuffed with meat
grandeur survives, particularly in and herbs) and brodetto, fish soup made
Federico’s magnificent Renaissance in several versions up and down the coast.
Palazzo Ducale, now home to a regional Dry, white Verdicchio is the best known
art collection. Ascoli Piceno is almost as wine, although more unusual names,
enchanting as Urbino, its central Piazza such as Bianchello del Metauro, are
del Popolo among the most evocative gaining in popularity.
Each area of Italy can be
466  R o M e AN d L A zio L A zio  467
identified quickly by its colour
Exploring Lazio Getting Around
Rome’s two international airports at Fiumi cino coding, shown on the inside
Much of Lazio’s landscape was formed by the eruption of four and Ciampino serve the region. The main
volcanoes, which showered the area with lava. Lakes formed in the motorways are the Autostrada del Sole Firenze–
craters, and the soil, rendered fertile by the lava, nourished vines, Roma (A1) and Roma–Napoli (A1–E45), and front cover.
the Roma–L’Aquila (A24–E80). The ring road
olives, fruit and nut trees. The volcanic activity (raccordo anulare) around Rome connects
also left Lazio with hot springs, notably Siena the motorways and main roads.
around Tivoli, Viterbo and Fiuggi. Rome Whitewashed houses in Sperlonga’s Old Town The Lazio bus service, COTRAL, serves
dominates the area, dividing the all the main towns with changeover points for
wooded hills of the north from the Acquapendente Ascoli Piceno the smaller locations in Rome and at Latina,
reclaimed Pontine marshes in the Firenze Accumoli Frosinone, Viterbo and Rieti. Train routes into
the region from other Italian cities are efficient,
south. Swimming and sailing are although within Lazio the services are slower
possible in lakes Bracciano, Monti Volsini Bolsena Amatrice and less frequent. Regional Map This
Cittareále
A field of poppies and olive trees in the heart of Le Marche’s countryside Bolsena and Albano, while Valentano Lago di Bagnoregio Terni Leonessa
Bolsena
Lazio’s best beaches lie
A view of the Piazza del Popolo, built in traventine marble, in the town of Ascoli Piceno Farnese MONTEFIASCONE Posta 2shows the main road
between Gaeta and Cellere Terni Reatini Monti
Sabaudia in the Parco Grosseto Fiora BOMARZO Orte Monte Terminillo
2216m
Nazionale del Circeo. TUSCANIA VITERBO Villa Lante Greccio Rieti Antrodoco network and gives an
Sights at a Glance Montalto Montalto di Castro Vetralla Lago Magliano Monte Nuria L’Aquila
Sabina
1888m
Marina
1 Tuscania Riva dei Tarquini Marta di Vico CAPRAROLA Monti Sabini Turano Concerviano
2 Viterbo TARQUINIA Capranica Civita Tevere Salto Fiamignano overview of the whole
Lago del
3 Montefiascone Lido di Tarquinia Sutri Castellana Farfa Lago di Borgorose
4 Bomarzo Vejano Turano Salto
5 Caprarola Allumiere LAKE Monti Sabatini Morlupo Montelibretti region. All entries are
6 Tarquinia Civitavecchia Monti BRACCIANO Riano Moricone Orvinio
7 Cerveteri della Tolfa Bracciano Anguillara Licenza
8 Lake Bracciano Avezzano
9 Ostia Antica Santa Marinella Isola Farnese Mentana Guidonia Cervara di Roma numbered and there
0 Frascati and the Castelli CERVETERI TIVOLI
Romani Ladispoli Monti Simbruini
q Tivoli Maccarese Vatican City Villa Adriana SUBIACO Avezzano are also useful tips on
Arcinazzo Romano
w Palestrina Roma (Rome) LAZIO The medieval Porta del Sole (Sun Gate), at the entrance of Palestrina
e Subiaco Focene PALESTRINA M o n t i E r n i c i
r Montecassino Colli FRASCATI Guarcino getting around the
t Anagni OSTIA ANTICA Castel Gandolfo Albani C i o c i a r i a Alatri
y Sermoneta and Ninfa M A R T I R R E N O Albano Nemi ANAGNI Sora Monte Petroso
2247m
Lido di Ostia
u Terracina Pomézia Velletri Segni Ferentino Picinisco
i Sperlonga Tor Vaianica Cisterna Sacco Frosinone Arpino region by car and train.
o Gaeta di Latina Monti Lepini Arce Atina Cardito
Rome pp386–463 Aprilia Ninfa Pofi Ceprano Monte Cairo
SERMONETA
Lavinio Lido di Enea A g r o P o n t i n o Prossedi 1669m MONTECASSINO
Anzio Latina Priverno Pontecorvo
Lago Pontinia Sonnino Pico Liri
di Fogliano Monti Ausoni Esperia
Key Fondi Garigliano Napoli
Motorway Sabaudia Lago di Sisto TERRACINA Itri Monti Aurunci
Major road Sabaudia Formia Minturno
Road under construction 262 І CENTR AL IT AL Y SPERLONGA EMILIA-ROM A GNA І 263
Capo Circeo
Secondary road GAETA Pozzuoli
Minor road Golfo
frieze of The Deposition (1178)
Scenic route di Gaeta 2 Castell’Arquato south transept features a carved Both Correggio and Parmigianino
are represented in the palace’s
Main railway Piacenza. * 4,500. @ n Piazza by Benedetto Antelami, who Galleria Nazionale, which also
Municipio 1 (0523 80 32 15). ( Mon.
Minor railway was also responsible for much houses works by Fra Angelico,
Isola
Tucked into the folded hills
Regional border Isola Zannone 0 kilometres 15 of the exquisite Baptistry (1196) El Greco and Bronzino, and two
The Tolfa hills southwest of Lake Bracciano Summit Palmarola 0 miles between Fidenza and Piacenza, just south of the cathedral. The paintings by Ludovico Carracci:
10
Isole Ponziane Castell’Arquato is one of the reliefs inside and outside the the Apostles at the Sepulchre and
For additional map symbols see back flap prettiest villages in the latter – particularly those the Funeral of the Virgin (both
countryside south of the Po. describing the months of the late 16th century).
Day visitors come at the year – are among the most The Museo Archeologico
weekends to escape Emilia’s important of their age in Italy. Nazionale, on the lower floor, has
larger cities, thronging the East of the Duomo is the exhibits from Velleia, an Etruscan
restaurants and bars around the church of San Giovanni necropolis, and from prehistoric
Detailed Information beautiful Piazza Matteotti. The Interior of Parma Baptistry Evangelista (rebuilt 1498–1510) sites in the hills around Parma.
best medieval building on the
whose dome features a fresco
E Camera di Correggio
(c.1520) of the Vision of St John at
piazza is the 13th-century
Palazzo Pretorio, a Romanesque Patmos by Correggio. Frescoes Via Melloni. Tel 0521 23 33 09. Open
3All the important towns basilica. The impressive Rocca 4 Parma by Parmigianino can be seen Tue–Sun (am only). & 7
Originally the refectory of the
here and in the 16th-century
Viscontea (14th century), a
* 190,000. V @ n Via Melloni 1a
church of Madonna della
former fortress, is on Piazza del
Benedictine convent of San
(0521 21 88 89). ( Wed & Sat; Thu
and other places to visit are Municipio. The village’s hilltop (flea market). ∑ turismo.comune. Steccata on Via Dante. Paolo, this room was frescoed
parma.it
by Correggio in 1518 with
site offers good views,
P Palazzo Pilotta
particularly over the verdant
mythological scenes.
Piazzale della Pilotta 15.
Arda valley to the east.
Few Italian towns are as
described individually. They are 3 Fidenza prosperous as Parma, not Galleria: Tel 0521 23 36
only a byword for fine food
17. Open Tue–Sun am.
& 7 Museo: Tel 0521
and good living but also a
23 37 18. Open Tue–Sat
listed in order, following the The 13th-century Palazzo Pretorio in Castell’Arquato has a rather leaden Lombard- Parma. * 25,000. V @ n Piazza treasure trove of excellent am, Sun pm. & 7
paintings, superlative sculpture
Duomo 16 (0524 833 77).
This vast palace was
and fine medieval buildings.
( Wed & Sat.
It boasts one of Italy’s top
built for the Farnese
1 Piacenza
numbering given on the * 105,000. V @ n Piazza Cavalli Romanesque exterior (begun Like many towns hugging the opera houses and a panoply family during the
of elegant shops and first-rate
in 1122), and a 14th-century
line of the Po, Fidenza owed its
1500s and rebuilt
early prominence to the Via
after bomb damage
campanile. The interior features
7 (0523 32 93 24). ( Wed & Sat.
bars and restaurants.
Aemilia (the old Roman road).
Guercino’s painted cupola and
The Lombard-Romanesque
from World War II.
Regional Map. Within each Piacenza traces its history back medieval frescoes. There are The town assumed greater Duomo on Piazza Duomo, It comprises several
among the greatest in northern
parts, including the
importance as a medieval
to Roman times. Located near
also frescoed saints near the
the Po, it served as a fortified
Teatro Farnese
main door, painted to resemble
Italy, is renowned for the
way station for pilgrims en
entry, information is given camp protecting the Emilian members of the congregation. route to Rome. Today Fidenza is painting that fills its main (1628), a copy of
plain from invasion. The centre
visited for its superb Duomo
The Museo Civico offers an
Palladio’s ravishing
cupola, the Assumption (1526–
on Piazza Duomo (13th
theatre in Vicenza,
30) by Antonio da Correggio.
eclectic mixture of sculpture and
is still based on the Roman plan.
Piacenza has a pleasantly paintings – the star among these century), a composite piece The nave is adorned with the built entirely
on the most important sights. understated old centre full of is the Madonna and Child with of architecture that embraces work of Correggio’s pupils. The of wood. Campanile and Baptistry in Parma
John the Baptist by
Lombard, Gothic
fine medieval and Renaissance
buildings. Pride of place goes to
and transitional
Botticelli (1444–1510).
two bronze equestrian statues There is also an Romanesque The Making of Parmesan Cheese and Parma Ham
The name of the provincial in the central Piazza Cavalli, the armoury and elements. The most No cheese is as famous or as ham owes its excel lence to
work of the 17th-century sculptor archaeology section.
vital to Italy’s cuisine as
immediately eye-
techniques perfected over
catching feature is
Parmesan (Parmigiano). There
The highlight here is
Francesco Mochi, a pupil of
many years and to the special
capital is given for smaller Giambologna. Lauded as master- the so-called Fegato the opulent façade, are two types: the superior conditions in which it is cured.
It is made from pigs fattened
Parmigiano-Reggiano and the
di Piacenza, an
most probably
pieces of Baroque sculpture,
lower-quality Grana. The
on whey left over from the
Etruscan bronze
the statues represent Alessandro
created by the
cheese is made using
making of Parmesan cheese.
craftsmen who
Farnese, a soldier of fortune, and representation of
towns at the top of each entry. his son, Ranuccio: both were the sheep livers once worked with techniques that have barely The meat has a character that
requires little more than salt
altered in centuries. Partially
rulers of 16th-century Piacenza.
used by priests for
Benedetto Antelami
and pepper to produce the
skimmed milk is added to
Behind the statues is the red-
divination, inscribed
on Parma’s Duomo.
brick Palazzo del Comune, with deities’ names. Inside, the walls are whey, to promote famous prosciutto crudo. The
breezy hills of Langhirino,
fermentation, and rennet is
also known as “Il Gotico”, an dotted with used to curdle the milk. The south of Parma, are ideal for
evocatively battlemented E Museo Civico fragments of cheese is then salted and curing the hams, which are
Lombard-Gothic palace begun Palazzo Farnese, Piazza medieval frescoes, shaped. Parmesan is not only aged for up to ten months.
at the end of the 13th century. Cittadella. Tel 0523 49 26 while the crypt used in cooking but is delicious Each ham is branded with the
It is one of Italy’s most beautiful 61. Open Tue –Sun (Tue– contains the relics of eaten on its own, or with pears Shop selling Parmesan cheese five-pointed crown of the old
medieval buildings. The Duomo, Thu am only). Closed Detail from façade of San Donnino, the – an Italian speciality. Parma and Parma ham Duchy of Parma.
at the end of Via XX Settembre, public hols. & Duomo in Fidenza Duomo’s patron.
NAPLES AND C A MP ANIA  499
498  SOUTHERN IT AL Y For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562–77 and pp580–605
2 Pompeii Plan of Pompeii VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
An earthquake in AD 62, which shook Pompeii and Practical Information
Piazza Esedra 5. Tel 081 857 53 47.
damaged many buildings, was merely a prelude to VIA DI NOLA Open 8:30am–7:30pm daily (last
the tragic day in AD 79 when Mount Vesuvius VIA DELL’ABBONDANZA adm: 6pm) (Nov–Mar: to 5pm, last
erupted, burying the town in 6 m (20 ft) of pumice Porta Marina adm: 3:30). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
and ash. Although it was discovered in the 16th entrance WESTERN & 7 8 - Story boxes explore
∑ pompeiisites.org
POMPEII
century, serious excavation began only in 1748, Piazza ∑ arethusa.net to book.
revealing a city petrified in Villa of the Esedraentrance specific subjects further.
time. In some Mysteries . House of the Vettii Anfiteatro entrance Piazza Transport V FS Naples–Salerno:
buildings paintings The villa of the wealthy merchants Aulus Area illustrated below vesuviana Naples–Sorrento:
station Pompei Scavi; Circum-
and sculpture Restitutus contains frescoes (see pp48–9). station Pompei Villa dei Misteri.
Vettius Conviva and Aulus Vettius
have survived, It is currently closed for renovation. Western Pompeii
and graffiti is This detailed illustration is of the
still visible on V I C O L O D E I V E T T I western area, where the most Vesuvius and the Campanian Towns
street walls. impressive and intact Roman Nearly 2,000 years after the the Younger related the first For all the top sights, a
eruption of Mount Vesuvius, the
hours of the eruption and his
ruins are located. There are
V I A D E L L A F O R T U N A V I A S T A B I A N A the eastern section, as wealthy still being released from the letters to the Roman historian Visitors’ Checklist provides the
Roman towns in its shadow are
uncle’s death in detail in two
several large patrician villas in
Tacitus.
petrification that engulfed
residents built their homes
them. Both Pompeii and Stabiae
Much of our knowledge of the
outside the town centre.
daily lives of the
(Castellammare di
However, much of eastern
ancient Romans
Stabia), to the
derives from the
and the volcano,
excavations of
V I A D E G L I A U G U S T A L I VICOLO DEL LUPANARE Teatro Grande the wind. The roofs of Pompeiian vase in Museo artefacts from them
Amphitheatre and
were smothered by
Forum Pompeii awaits excavation. southeast of Naples Pompeii and practical information you need
Herculaneum.
Baths sports ground hot ash and pumice- Most of the to plan your visit.
stone blown there by
as well as Stabiae are
the buildings
now in Naples’
collapsed under the
weight of the volcanic
debris. To the west, Nazionale Archeologico Museo Archeologico
Nazionale (see
Herculaneum (Ercolano)
pp494–5), creating an
vanished under a sea of
outstanding collection.
erupted since 1944, but
. House of the Faun V I A D E L L ’ A B B O N D A N Z A mud. A large number Mount Vesuvius has not
of its buildings have
This famous villa of the wealthy V I A D E L F O R O survived, their roofs occasional rumbles have
patrician Casii is named after its intact, and many caused minor earthquakes.
bronze statuette. Advance booking domestic items Visitors can reach it by Italy’s Top Sights
is necessary to visit this and the were preserved by train to Castellammare
other private houses on site. the mud. In all, di Stabia, or by car.
about 2,000 A useful website is www.
0 metres 100 Pompeiians guidevesuvio.it. 4These are given two or more
0 yards 100 perished but few, if
any, of the residents of
In the Herculaneum died.
bakery In AD 79 Pliny the Elder, full pages. Historic buildings
of Modestus, the Roman soldier, writer
carbonized and naturalist, was the
loaves of bread commander of a fleet
were found. stationed off Misenum are dissected to reveal their
(present-day Miseno,
west of Naples) and with
his nephew Pliny the
Younger observed the interiors; museums and
Forum impending eruption from
afar. Eager to see this
natural catastrophe closer
Macellum to hand, Pliny the Elder galleries have colour-coded
Sacrarium of the Lares Pompeii’s market Via dell’Abbondanza proceeded to Stabiae, but
Close to the Temple of Vespasian, place was fronted This was one of the original and was overcome by fumes
this building housed the statues of by a portico with most important roads through and died. Based on floorplans to help you locate
Pompeii’s guardian deities, the two money- ancient Pompeii. Many inns reports by survivors, Pliny Casts of a dying mother and child seen at Pompeii
Lares Publici. changers’ kiosks. lined the route.
the most interesting exhibits.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–77 and pp580–605
006-007_EW_Italy.indd 7 26/04/16 4:30 pm

it_008-009_introduce_italy.indd 8 01/04/14 12:28 PM
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IntroducIng


Italy





Discovering Italy 10–17

Putting Italy on the Map 18–23
A Portrait of Italy 24–45
The History of Italy 46–69
Italy Through the Year 70–77















































it_008-009_introduce_italy.indd 9 01/04/14 12:28 PM

10  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

DISCOVERING ITALY

The following tours have been designed to Next come two 7-day tours, covering the
take in as many of the country’s highlights as north and the south of Italy. These can be
possible, while keeping long-distance travel combined to make a superb 2-week tour of
to a minimum. First come three 2-day tours of the whole country. Finally, two themed
Italy’s most glamorous cities: Rome, Florence itineraries have been designed for anyone
and Venice. These itineraries can be followed looking to tailor their trip according to a
individually or combined to form a week-long specific interest. Pick, combine and follow
tour. Extra suggestions are provided for those your favourite tours, or simply dip in and
who want to extend their stay to 10 days. seek inspiration.




TRENTINO-
ALTO ADIGE
Lake LOMBARDY FRIULI-
VALLE Como VENEZIA
D’AOSTA GIULIA
VENETO
Vicenza
Milan
Verona Venice
PIEDMONT Padua
EMILIA-
LIGURIA ROMAGNA
Cinque Terre
Lucca
Pisa Florence
San Gimignano
Golden Fields of Tuscany Siena MARCHE
The Tuscan countryside, with its rolling hills and pencil-thin TUSCANY
cypress trees, is a dream for artists and visitors alike. UMBRIA
A Week in A Week in Rome ABRUZZO
Northern Italy Southern Italy LAZIO
MOLISE
• See the artworks of the • See treasures of the classical
CAMPANIA
Pinoteca di Brera and shop world in Rome’s museums Naples PUGLIA
in fashionable Milan. and people-watch from Pompeii
• Take a relaxing cruise on the Spanish Steps. Amalfi Coast
Lake Como and walk in the • Marvel at sculptures Key Capri BASILICATA
surrounding countryside. and mosaics in Museo Northern Italy tour
Archeologico in Naples,
• Look up at Juliet’s balcony Southern Italy tour

in Verona and marvel at the and sample fantastic pizza
in the city of its origin.
architecture of Vicenza.
• Visit the evocative ruins of CALABRIA

• Admire world-famous Pompeii and take a ferry to
frescoes in Padua. the island of Capri.
• Enjoy a vaporetto ride along
• Marvel at the beautiful views Palermo
Venice’s magnificent from the towns along the
waterway, the Grand Canal. Amalfi Coast and enjoy the Monreale
• Take in stunning views of sea air at Ravello. Selinunte SICILY
Florence from the Duomo. • Take a night ferry to Palermo Piazza Armerina
• Walk the dizzying pathways in Sicily and visit the glittering Agrigento
and hillsides of the Cinque Palazzo dei Normanni. Noto
Terre coastline. • Discover the Valley of the
• Explore the three enchanting Temples near Agrigento.
Tuscan towns of Lucca, Pisa • Explore the magnificent

and Siena. Baroque town of Noto.
A Court Scene, from Mantegna’s 15th-century fresco in the Camera degli Sposi, Palazzo Ducale, Mantua
010-011_EW_Italy.indd 10 4/6/17 3:45 PM
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DISC OVERING IT AL Y  11


A Gourmet Tour A Tour of
of Central Italy Etruscan Italy
• Try fine cheeses and ham in • Explore fabulous museums
the delightful town of Parma. dedicated to the Etruscan
• Sample balsamic vinegar civilization in Rome.
in Modena. • Visit the vast “city of the

0 kilometres 150 • Dine in style in Bologna and dead” at Cerveteri and

0 miles 150 soak up the atmosphere in marvel at the frescoed
the city’s entoche (wine bars). tombs in Tarquinia.
• Try the Tuscan speciality • See remnants of Etruscan life
Bistecca Fiorentina in Pisa at the Necropoli Etrusca in
and enjoy panforte in Siena. Orvieto and spend an after­
• Visit Perugia and stock up noon in the hill­town of Todi.
on the town’s famous • Travel to Chiusi for the fine
Baci chocolates. Museo Nazionale Etrusco
TRENTINO- • Travel to Norcia to enjoy and visit medieval Gubbio
ALTO ADIGE truffles and pork from the to see the Eugubine Tablets.
Lake LOMBARDY FRIULI-
VALLE Como VENEZIA region’s black pigs. • Spend a day in Volterra
D’AOSTA GIULIA
VENETO • Spend a day in Orvieto, to view the remarkable
Vicenza
Milan seeking out pecorino collection of Etruscan
Verona Venice cheese, delicious salami funerary urns in the
PIEDMONT Padua
and Orvieto Classico wine. Museo Guarnacci.
EMILIA-
LIGURIA ROMAGNA
Cinque Terre
Lucca Parma Po Delta
Pisa Florence
San Gimignano Modena Bologna
Siena MARCHE
LIGURIA EMILIA-
TUSCANY ROMAGNA
UMBRIA
Florence
Pisa
ABRUZZO TUSCANY
Rome
Volterra San Gimignano
LAZIO Gubbio
MOLISE
Siena MARCHE
CAMPANIA Perugia
Naples PUGLIA Chiusi UMBRIA
Pompeii Orvieto Todi
Amalfi Coast Maremma Norcia
Key Capri BASILICATA Park Valnerina
Viterbo
Northern Italy tour ABRUZZO
Tarquinia Sutri
Southern Italy tour
0 kilometres 100 LAZIO
Cerveteri
0 miles 50 Rome
CALABRIA
Key
Palermo Gourmet Italy tour
Monreale Etruscan Italy tour
SICILY
Selinunte
Piazza Armerina
Agrigento
Noto Colosseum, Rome
Once the site of deadly
gladiatorial combat, the
Colosseum is the highlight
of a trip to Rome. Tickets
include access to the Forum
and Palatine Museum.
010-011_EW_Italy.indd 11 4/6/17 3:45 PM

12  INTRODUCING IT AL Y


2 days in Florence

Florence is the ultimate city
for art lovers, with a wealth
of breathtaking museums
and galleries.
• Arriving Florence is served
by two airports – Amerigo
Vespucci airport, 4 km
(2 miles) from the centre,
and Pisa airport. From
Amerigo Vespucci, buses
Beautiful spiral staircase leading down from the Vatican Museums, Rome run to Florence’s Santa Maria
Novella train station; from
evening among the exuberant Pisa, catch a direct train to
2 days in Rome Baroque fountains and cafés Santa Maria Novella.
of Piazza Navona (pp402–3). • Moving on The journey
The nation’s capital has from Florence to Venice is
an overwhelming array Day 2 just 2 hours by fast train.
of memorable sights, Morning Wander through the
including the wonderful
Vatican Museums and evocative ruins of the Roman
the Colosseum. Forum (pp394–6), and on to
the monumental Colosseum
• Arriving Fiumicino (p397). Nearby, the church of
(Leonardo da Vinci) is Rome’s San Clemente (p439) reveals
main airport, located about its layers of history from pagan
30 km (18 miles) southwest temple to 15th-century church.
of the city. The “Leonardo Afternoon For great city views,
Express” train runs nonstop
to Termini station, the city’s head up to the Capitoline
main railway station. Museums (pp390–91).
The Palazzo Nuovo has a fine
• Moving on The journey
from Rome to Florence takes selection of Greek and Roman
1 hour and 37 minutes statues. For some respite, visit
by Eurostar. the pretty 17th-century pleasure The dome of Florence’s Duomo, designed
gardens of Villa Borghese by Brunelleschi and completed in 1436
(pp442–3). Visit Piazza di Spagna
Day 1 and the Spanish Steps (p413) Day 1
Morning A couple of days in and cast a coin in the Baroque Morning Much more compact
Rome (pp380–463) will only Trevi Fountain (pp414–15). than Rome, Florence (pp274–
scrape its surface, but do 317) is the embodiment of
devote one day to the Vatican To extend your trip… the Renaissance. Feel the pull
and St Peter’s. The fast route Take a day trip to the lovely of Brunelleschi´s immense
through the Vatican Museums hill-town of Tivoli and visit orange-tiled dome, which
(pp424–31) takes in the Sistine Hadrian’s Villa (p472), about crowns the Duomo (pp284–6).
Chapel (pp428–30). Don’t miss 5 km (3 miles) west of Tivoli. Climb the dome for stunning
Michelangelo’s Creation of views, then admire Ghiberti’s
Adam on the ceiling and his
dynamic fresco The Last
Judgment. The four Raphael
Rooms (p431) show another
Renaissance master at the
peak of his artistic powers.
Afternoon Inside the awe-
inspiring St Peter’s (pp422–3),
be sure to see Michelangelo’s
moving Pietà. Climb the dome
for views, then descend to the
grottoes for the papal tombs.
Afterwards, cross the Tiber to
the centro storico. Look in at
the Pantheon (p408), the only
ancient Roman temple to
survive intact, then spend the The Vatican, with St Peter’s Basilica and Sant’Angelo bridge, Rome
For practical information on travelling around Italy, see pp628–35



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DISC OVERING IT AL Y  13


2 days in Venice Afternoon Join a pre-booked
Secret Itineraries tour to get the
most out of the Palazzo Ducale
This unique city on the (pp118–20), where the vast Sala
water has romantic del Maggior Consiglio, with its
gondolas, magnificent magnificent Tintoretto, is the
churches and wonderful art. highlight. Have coffee at Caffè
Florian or Grancaffè Quadri on
• Arriving Marco Polo airport
is located at Tessera, 8 km Piazza San Marco (pp112–13),
(5 miles) north of the city. then cross the Grand Canal to
Alilaguna ferries, which stop the Accademia (pp110–11) for
at various points in the city, the best of the Venetian painters.
can be picked up a short If you prefer modern art, visit
walk from the airport. the Peggy Guggenheim
The journey time is around Collection (pp108–9), housed
Looking south from the upper terrace of 1 hour. Water taxis are also in the 18th-century Palazzo
the Boboli Gardens, Florence available, but they are very Venier dei Leoni.
expensive. Venice’s main
famous bronze doors on the train station is Venezia Santa Day 2
Baptistry (pp284–6). A few Lucia station. Morning Make for the Rialto
streets away, the Bargello (p287) (p101) to watch boats go by
holds a fantastic collection from the bridge, and stock up at
of Renaissance sculpture. Day 1 the city’s busiest market. Nearby
Afternoon Take a stroll around Morning Simply getting lost in is the church of Santa Maria
Piazza della Signoria (pp294–5), Venice (pp88–141) will exceed Gloriosa dei Frari (pp102–3)
dominated by its towering city expectations, as will the reality with its exquisite altarpiece, a
hall, the Palazzo Vecchio, and a of the familiar sights. To make Madonna and Child by Bellini.
copy of Michelangelo’s David. the most of a visit to this watery Afternoon Tour the islands of
Stop off at the famous Bar Vivoli city, travel by vaporetto or Torcello (pp126–7) for 12th- and
Gelateria for an ice cream before gondola along the Grand Canal 13th-century mosaics, Murano
tackling the Uffizi (pp290–93). (pp92–5) to Piazza San Marco (p125) for the glass museum
Caravaggio, Titian, Raphael – (pp112–13) and the Basilica di and colourful Burano (p125)
works by all the major artists San Marco (pp114–17). The for lace. Be sure to sample
of the Renaissance and beyond mosaics inside and out are some local snacks and drink
are on display here. stunning, but so too are the Pala an aperitivo in one of the many
d’Oro (golden altarpiece), the enticing bars back in Venice.
Day 2 jewels of the Treasury and the
Morning See the real statue of four Horses of St Mark on the To extend your trip…
David by Michelangelo in the balcony. Take the lift to the top Take a day trip to Verona
Galleria dell’ Accademia (p279), of the adjacent Campanile to be (pp146–51), which has a
then visit the church of Santa rewarded with a view stretching fine Roman arena.
Maria Novella (pp300–301) for all the way to the Alps.
Masaccio’s Trinity, with its novel
use of perspective.
Afternoon Visit the Gothic
church of Santa Croce (pp288–9),
the final resting place of
Michelangelo, Galileo and
Machiavelli. Next, cross Ponte
Vecchio (p289) for the Cappella
Brancacci (pp302–3), to see
more frescoes by Masaccio.
The fountains, grottoes and
woods of the Boboli Gardens
(p307) are perfect for a picnic,
and there is plenty more art in
the Palazzo Pitti (pp306–7).

To extend your trip…
Spend a day in the Cinque
Terre (p245) and another
exploring Pisa (pp328–30)
and Lucca (pp324–7).
Smart waiters serving drinks in refined Caffè Florian, Piazza San Marco, Venice




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14  INTRODUCING IT AL Y


A Week in Day 2: Lake Como
Northern Italy Lake Como (pp194–5), its long
arms nestling between steep
• Airports Arrive at Milano hillsides, is a prime example of
Malpensa airport and depart Italy's exquisite landscapes.
from Pisa Galileo Galilei. Cruise the lake or take short ferry
• Transport Trains connect hops across the water, admiring
the cities in 2 hours or less. the resplendent villas along the
Use the bus to reach Siena way. Explore Bellagio, or take a
from Florence, and hire a car funicular up into the hills.
for the Cinque Terre, leaving
it at La Spezia for the local Day 3: Venice
train. It is easy to make day Pick a day from the city itinerary
trips to Lake Como from on p13.
Milan, the Veneto from
Venice and the Cinque Day 4: The Veneto – Verona,
Terre from Florence. Vicenza and Padua Rolling fields in Tuscany
Pick from a trio of towns, all
• Booking ahead Milan:
within striking distance of Manarola and Riomaggiore –
viewing of Last Supper;
Venice: Basilica di San Venice. Lively Verona (pp146– are the jewels of Italy’s north-
Marco; Florence: Accademia, 151) conjures up Shakespeare’s west coast. Colourful houses
Uffizi; Pisa: ascent of the Romeo and Juliet, and crowds cling to the rocky cliffs, making
Leaning Tower. still flock to see Juliet’s balcony. a hike along the connecting
Famous for concerts is the well- path a delight to the eye. You
preserved Roman Arena (p147), can do the whole trail (north
while the Romanesque church to south is less steep) in 5 or
Day 1: Milan of San Zeno Maggiore (pp150– 6 hours.
If you’re looking for Italian 51) has a lovely cloister.
style, high fashion, art and Admirers of Palladio will Day 7: Tuscany – Lucca,
architecture, Milan (pp196–205), appreciate Vicenza (pp154–7), Pisa and Siena
the largest city of the north, where his elegant Classical These three Tuscan towns are
has it all. Heading up the list of buildings surround the Piazza less busy than Florence, yet
sights is Leonardo da Vinci’s dei Signori. Padua (pp158–63) they offer a cultural feast with
world-famous Last Supper is known for its Cappella the bonus of an enchanting
(p204). Visit the enormous dei Scrovegni (pp160–61), landscape. If time is tight,
Gothic Duomo (p197), which containing some wonderful visit two. In Lucca (pp324–7),
invites a climb to its roof for frescoes by Giotto. promenade the encircling
the best city view. For glorious 17th-century grassy ramparts
paintings from the Renaissance Day 5: Florence and visit the church of San
to the present day, don’t miss Pick a day from the city itinerary Michele in Foro, its exquisite
the Pinacoteca di Brera (pp202– on p12. Pisan-Romanesque façade
203), and for those who enjoy bursting with decoration. Pisa
shopping, Galleria Vittorio Day 6 : Cinque Terre (pp328–30) is the home of the
Emanuele II (p198), with its The five tiny villages of the iconic 13th-century Leaning
magnificent glass dome and Cinque Terre (p245) – Tower, which, together with the
floor mosaics, is a must. Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Duomo and Baptistry, forms
the Campo dei Miracoli. Siena
(pp342–7) is one of Italy´s most
appealing medieval towns and
home to the twice-yearly Palio
(p345), when Piazza del Campo
comes alive with spirited
bareback horse racing. Within
striking distance of the piazza
are the Gothic Palazzo Pubblico,
which contains a treasure trove
of frescoes from the Middle
Ages, and the magnificent
Duomo (pp346–7). En route
from Pisa to Siena, try to catch
a glimpse of the 13 medieval
towers that pierce the skyline in
San Gimignano (pp348–9). The
Pretty Bellagio, which sits on a peninsula at the top of Lake Como’s two “arms” view is magical in the evening.
For practical information on travelling around Italy, see pp628–35



012-017_EW_Italy.indd 14 4/4/17 5:31 PM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Great days out/City itinerary template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

DISC OVERING IT AL Y  15


A Week in
Southern Italy
• Airports Arrive at Rome
Fiumicino and depart from
Catania airport, Sicily.
• Transport Train travel from
Rome to Naples is fast and
easy (1 hour and 10 minutes
is the fastest). Take the ferry
for Capri and Sicily, the bus
for the coastal towns of
Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi
and Ravenna, and for
Agrigento from Palermo
(2 hours). You will need
a car to see inland Sicily:
Piazza Armerina and Noto.
Pompeii and Capri are
easy to visit as day trips
from Naples. The evocative ancient temple ruins at Selinunte, Sicily
• Booking ahead Rome:
The body casts of the people (p501) has a stunning 9th-
Vatican Museums,
Colosseum, Forum and who perished here are perhaps century cathedral, while Ravello
Palatine; Naples: Museo most poignant. Arrange a trip (p501), set high above terraces of
Archeologico Nazionale, up the infamous volcano, or lemon groves, has the best of
Secret Cabinet Tour. take a ferry from Naples or the views. Lose yourself among
Sorrento to the idyllic island of the bougainvillea in the lush
Capri (pp502–503), best enjoyed gardens of the Villa Cimbrone or
in the quiet of evening. Blue Villa Rufolo.
Days 1 and 2: Rome Grotto sea cave and Villa Jovis of
See the city itinerary on p12. Emperor Tiberius are secondary Days 6 and 7: Sicily
attractions to the captivating Sicily is a melting pot of
Day 3: Naples vistas you will find here. Norman, Byzantine, Greek and
Naples (pp490–97) is chaotic, Arab influences and deserves
but the rewards of visiting are at least 2 days’ exploration.
manifold. The main attraction Taking the night ferry from
is the world-renowned Museo Naples to Palermo, the island’s
Archeologico Nazionale largest town, will save you time.
(pp494–5) and its vast collection Palermo (pp530–33) exemplifies
of Roman and Pompeiian all these influences, notably in
treasures; allow at least half a the Palazzo dei Normanni,
day here. Book ahead for the whose Cappella Palatina is
Secret Cabinet tour to view the a glittering mix of mosaics,
erotic works from Pompeii. marble and gold. The most
Tiny Cappella Sansevero (p491) famous Norman mosaics,
holds intriguing works from however, are outside Palermo,
the 18th century, notably the at the highly ornamented
virtuoso alabaster and marble Duomo of Monreale (pp534–5).
Veiled Christ by Sammartino. Seek out the intricate Norman
Santa Chiara (p493) is worth cloisters here. To the south, you
seeing for its charming can discover the ancient Greek
majolica-tiled cloisters. Don’t Marina Grande on the pretty island of Capri legacy in the Valley of the
leave without eating pizza in Temples (p540), near Agrigento,
the city of its invention. Day 5: Amalfi Coast or at Selinunte (p538), which has
Take the hair-raising bus ride the benefit of a long and sandy
Day 4: Pompeii and Capri along the coast for views of a beach. In the interior, the Villa
The Circumvesuviana train skirts lifetime and stop off at your Romana del Casale at Piazza
the base of Vesuvius from leisure at some of Italy’s most Armerina (p541) sports some
Naples to Pompeii and on to beautiful towns. Sorrento (p501) of Italy’s liveliest mosaics, and
Sorrento. Pompeii (pp498–9) is the most lively and popular, beautiful Noto (p547), aglow
gives you an insight into a while chic Positano (p501) with golden stone, is a unique
Roman town as it was before favours the jet set and comes Baroque town rebuilt after the
it was destroyed in AD 79. with a good beach. Amalfi earthquake of 1693.




012-017_EW_Italy.indd 15 4/4/17 5:31 PM

16  INTRODUCING IT AL Y


A Gourmet Tour fame: it is the producer of fast
of Central Italy cars (Ferrari and Maserati) and
balsamic vinegar – try the city’s
• Duration 7 days – but market for the best vintage
extends to a 10-day tour variety. In between sampling
with the extra suggestions. some of the region’s other
• Airports Arrive at Milan specialities, such as mortadella,
Linate airport and depart spicy sausage and pig’s feet,
from Rome Fiumicino be sure to visit the very fine
airport. From Milan, travel by Romanesque Duomo and the
train or car to Parma for the Este collection of paintings in
first stop on the tour. the Palazzo dei Musei.
• Transport This tour can
be made using Italy’s rail Day: 3 Bologna
network, but hiring a car Dress up for dinner here –
would allow more flexibility. Bologna (pp266–9) has some of The iconic Leaning Tower of Pisa
the country’s finest restaurants
and atmospheric enoteche (wine Day 5: Siena
bars). Home-made pasta comes Life in Siena (pp342–7) centres
This itinerary takes you to with the famous Bolognese on the beautiful fan-shaped
Italy’s central regions – (ragù) or cream sauce, or is piazza of Il Campo, around
Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany stuffed with ricotta, pork or which pasticcerie sell the city’s
and Umbria – focusing on pumpkin. During the day, check famous panforte cake and
the regional food specialities out the medieval skyscrapers of ricciarelli (almond biscuits).
along the way. If you are the Due Torri and the Gothic Admire the frescoes in the
travelling in summer or church of San Petronio. medieval Palazzo Pubblico and
autumn, look out for the the treasures of the spectacular
copious food festivals held To extend your trip… Duomo and its Museo.
across the region. Cycle around the lagoons of
the Po Delta (pp270–71), 97 km To extend your trip…
Day 1: Parma (60 miles) from Bologna. Head for the coast at
Affluent Parma (p263) is Maremma Park (pp350–51),
synonymous with cheese and 81 km (50 miles) from Siena.
ham – Parmigiano Reggiano Day 4: Pisa
(Parmesan) and prosciutto crudo Spend a day in Pisa (pp328–30).
(Parma ham). The delicatessens The city’s main draw is the Day 6: Perugia and Norcia
here are a feast for the eyes, Campo dei Miracoli, which Stop at Perugia (pp356–7) to
as are the city’s main sights, contains the Duomo, Baptistry stock up on Baci chocolate and
which include an exquisite and the Leaning Tower. Pisa’s see the frescoes in the Palazzo
12th-century Baptistry and culinary attractions include fish dei Priori, before travelling
paintings by Correggio in the dishes, such as cacciucco, a to the gastronomic hot spot of
exquisite Duomo. hearty fish soup, and baccalá Norcia (pp366–7), where black
alla Pisana, salt cod with tomato truffles and salami and pork
Day 2: Modena sauce. Meat-eaters will love from the local black pigs are
The handsome city of Modena bistecca alla fiorentina (thick the must-try specialities.
(p264) has two main claims to charcoal-grilled steak).
To extend your trip…
Explore the mountains of
the Valnerina (p367), 48 km
(30 miles) from Norcia.

Day 7: Orvieto
Pretty Orvieto (pp362–3) is
head quarters of the Città Slow
movement, which pro motes
locally sourced produce and
traditional food. Look out for
pecorino cheese and salami,
and, of course, Orvieto Classico
wine. Take time to visit the
Romanesque-Gothic Duomo
and the 16th-century Pozzo di
Atmospheric outdoor dining in Piazza della Mercanzia, Bologna San Patrizio.
For practical information on travelling around Italy, see pp628–35



012-017_EW_Italy.indd 16 05/05/2017 10:09
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Great days out/City itinerary template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

DISC OVERING IT AL Y  17


A Tour of
Etruscan Italy
• Duration 7 days – but
extends to a 10-day tour
with the extra suggestions.
• Airports Arrive at Rome
Fiumicino airport and depart
from Pisa Galileo Galilei
(trains from Florence to
Pisa take 1 hour).
• Transport This tour is most
easily done by car, though
Cerveteri is accessible by bus
from Rome and Tarquinia,
and Orvieto by train. Well-preserved “street” of Etruscan tombs, Cerveteri
Day 3: Tarquinia Then head towards the forest-
Spend some time in Tarquinia clad Apennines for charming
This tour focuses on the (p470). The medieval centre Gubbio (p356), where the
ancient Etruscan sights and here was the capital of Etruria Palazzo dei Consoli houses the
museums of Lazio, Umbria 2,500 years ago. Head uphill famous seven bronze Eugubine
and Tuscany, as well as other to the necropolis, a warren Tablets inscribed with Etruscan
interesting sights along the of tombs that hold lively and letters, and where the strange
way. For more on Italy’s first colourful frescoes depicting Porte della Morte, walled-up
major civilization, see pp48–9. the lives of their inhabitants. doors, were once supposedly
For more revelations of used for the transport of coffins.
Day 1: Rome everyday life and artistry, head
Be inspired by the world’s best for the Museo Archeologico,
collections of Etruscan treasures where, alongside the famous
in the Etruscan Museum of terracotta winged horses, are
the Vatican (p424) and the fine displays of jewellery,
Museo Nazionale Etrusco in bronzes and ceramics.
the Villa Giulia (p444). The
tender portrayals of people on To extend your trip…
the sarcophagi, the delicate Visit the Renaissance
and intricate gold jewellery and gardens of Villa Lante at Volterra, once an important Etruscan city
lifelike bronze sculptures display Viterbo (pp468–9), 64 km
amazing craftsmanship. Leave (40 miles) from Tarquinia. Day 6: Volterra
time for the lovely gardens of The city of Volterra (p338) is
the Villa Borghese (pp442–3). home to the excellent Museo
Day 4: Orvieto and Todi Guarnacci and beautiful
Day 2: Cerveteri You can see more Etruscan Etruscan funerary urns, made
Feel the mystery of the vast remains in Orvieto (pp362–3), out of alabaster, for which the
necropolis at Cerveteri (p470) at the Museo Archeologico region is famous. For more
as you stroll its silent streets. Faina and Museo Civico, at the alabaster, visit the Pinacoteca e
Here, see the tombs that were Necropoli Etrusca, and even Museo Civico and browse the
built as replicas of homes, during a tour of Orvieto craft shops.
decorated with frescoes and Underground (www.orvieto
filled with domestic furnishings. underground.it). The fine To extend your trip…
Fifty thousand Etruscans were beautiful Duomo and the A 32 km (20 mile) drive from
entombed here from the 7th to 16th-century Pozzo di San Volterra takes you to San
the 1st century BC in what was Patrizio add to the attractions. Gimignano (pp348–9) and
one of the most powerful of From here travel to nearby its 13th-century towers.
the 12 Etruscan cities. Visit the Todi (p363). This dramatic
Museo Nazionale Cerite to see hilltop town is home to the
displays of objects that were Museo Etrusco-Romano. Day 7: Florence
buried with the bodies. Finish your tour in Florence
Day 5: Chiusi and Gubbio and visit the Medici Etruscan
To extend your trip… Make your way northwards for collection in the Museo
Head 64 km (40 miles) Chiusi (p336) and the Museo Archeologico (p281), which
from Rome to the Etruscan Nazionale Etrusco for its fine includes two outstanding
amphitheatre at Sutri (p470). display of urns and vases taken sculptures – the Chimera and
from the surrounding tombs. the Arringatore (Orator) bronze.




012-017_EW_Italy.indd 17 4/4/17 5:31 PM

18  INTRODUCING IT AL Y
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND Klagenfurt
Cortina Maribor
Putting Italy on the Map Bolzano d'Ampezzo Dráva Varazdin HUNGARY
SLOVENIA
Italy sits at the heart of the Mediterranean, Lago Lago di Trento Belluno Udine
shielded from the rest of Europe by the vast Maggiore Como Lecco Ljubljana Zagreb Pecs
sweep of the Alps. The Po, its longest river, Aosta Arona Bergamo Lago di Treviso
Garda
arcs across the industrial north, while the Vicenza Trieste CROATIA
Apennine mountains split the boot-shaped Ivrea Milan Brescia Verona Venice Karlovac
peninsula down its length. With a popula- Mantova Padova Rijeka
tion of 58 million, governed from Rome, Turin Po Adige Slavonski
Brod
Italy covers 301,268 sq km (116,320 sq Po Ferrara Pula
Tanaro Modena
miles) and includes Sicily and Sardinia. Parma Banja Luka
Genoa Bologna Ravenna Zenica
Cuneo
BOSNIA AND
La Spezia Rimini Zadar CROATIA HERZEGOVINA
San Marino
Avignon Lucca Pèsaro
FRANCE Nice San Remo Florence Sarajevo
Monaco Pisa Sibenik
Ligur ian Ancona
Livorno
Sea Siena Gubbio Split Mostar
Marseille
Perugia
Piombino
Ascoli Piceno Adr iatic
Bastia Orvieto
Elba Terni Sea Dubrovnik
Orbetello Viterbo Pescara
L'Aquila
Corsica Isole
Civitavécchia
Tremiti
Sulmona
Ajaccio
T yr rhenian Rome
Sea IT AL Y Manfredonia Greece, Egypt
Anzio
Foggia Barletta
Benevento
Key Bari
Olbia Greece
Motorway Porto Torres Isola Naples
Major road d'Ischia Amalfi Potenza Matera Brindisi
Ferry service Alghero Isola di Taranto
Capri
International boundary Lecce
Sardinia
Arbatax
Lauria
Rossano
Europe NORWAY
SWEDEN ESTONIA
Nor th Cosenza
Sea LATVIA Cagliari
Crotone
DENMARK LITHUANIA
Catanzaro
REP. OF UNITED BELARUS Vibo Valentia
IRELAND KINGDOM NETH. POLAND Ustica Isole Eólie o Lípari
GERMANY
BELGIUM CZECH
REPUBLIC UKRAINE
SLOVAKIA
FRANCE AUSTRIA Messina
Atlantic HUNGARY Mediter r anean Isole Palermo Reggio di Ionian
Ocean CROATIA ROMANIA Egadi Trapani Calabria
ITALY SERBIA Sea Sea
MONTEN. KOS. BULGARIA Marsala Sicily
MAC. Catania
SP AIN ALBANIA Enna
PORTUGAL GREECE
Agrigento
Bizerte
Gela Siracusa
ALGERIA
MOROCCO TUNISIA Annaba TUNISIA Tunis Isola di
Pantelleria
Malta
For additional map symbols see back flap
018-019_EW_Italy.indd 18 4/5/17 10:18 AM

PUT TING IT AL Y ON THE M AP  19
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND Klagenfurt
Cortina Maribor
Bolzano d'Ampezzo Dráva
Varazdin HUNGARY
SLOVENIA
Lago Lago di Trento Belluno Udine
Maggiore Como Ljubljana Pecs
Lecco Zagreb
Aosta Lago di
Arona Bergamo Garda Treviso
Trieste
Vicenza CROATIA
Ivrea Verona Venice
Milan Brescia Karlovac
Padova
Mantova Rijeka Slavonski
Po Adige Brod
Turin Po Ferrara Pula
Tanaro Parma Modena Banja Luka
Genoa Bologna Ravenna Zenica
Cuneo
BOSNIA AND
La Spezia Rimini Zadar CROATIA HERZEGOVINA
San Marino
Avignon Lucca Pèsaro
FRANCE Nice San Remo Florence Sarajevo
Monaco Pisa Sibenik
Ligur ian Ancona
Livorno
Sea Siena Gubbio Split Mostar
Marseille
Perugia
Piombino
Ascoli Piceno Adr iatic
Bastia Orvieto
Elba Terni Sea Dubrovnik
Orbetello Viterbo Pescara
L'Aquila
Corsica Isole
Civitavécchia
Tremiti
Sulmona
Ajaccio
T yr rhenian Rome
Sea IT AL Y Manfredonia Greece, Egypt
Anzio
Foggia Barletta
Benevento
Bari
Olbia Greece
Naples
Porto Torres
Isola Potenza Matera
d'Ischia Brindisi
Alghero Isola di Amalfi
Capri Taranto
Lecce
Sardinia
Arbatax
Lauria
Rossano
Cagliari Cosenza
Crotone
Catanzaro
Ustica Vibo Valentia
Isole Eólie o Lípari
Messina
Mediter r anean Isole Trapani Palermo Reggio di Ionian
Egadi Calabria
Sea Sea
Marsala Sicily
Enna Catania
Agrigento
Bizerte
Gela Siracusa
Annaba TUNISIA Tunis Isola di 0 kilometres 200
Pantelleria
Malta 0 miles 100
018-019_EW_Italy.indd 19 4/5/17 10:18 AM

20  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

Northern Italy

Airline connections link Milan, Turin, Bologna, Pisa, Florence,
Verona and Venice with the rest of Europe. Major roads and
railways also provide excellent links to cities all over Europe.
Transport services are very efficient, with motorways and
railways along both coasts, and across the area’s main
east-to-west axis at the foot of the Alps. Milan, Verona Vipiteno AUSTRIA
Brunico
and Bologna are the key transport hubs, while Florence Malles Venosta Bressanone
A22
provides the main link to the south. Merano
SWITZERLAND Parco Nazionale S38 Canazei Cortina d'Ampezzo
dello Stelvio
Bolzano Tolmezzo
Bormio S52
S38 S51 A23
Cividale
Cavalese del Friuli
Sondrio Belluno SLOVENIA
S36
Lago Madonna di Trento S50 Udine
Domodossola Maggiore Lago di S48 Campiglio Feltre
Como Val Camonica A22 S47 Pordenone S13 A4 Gorizia
S33
Varallo S42 Rovereto S47 A27 A28
Varese Como Bassano
Lago Aquileia
A5 d'Orta Bergamo Lago del Grappa Treviso
Aosta d'Iseo S45 Castello A31 Trieste
Parco Nazionale A26 A8 Monza A4 Brescia di Avio
Vicenza
del Gran Paradiso Lago di Verona VENICE
A5 Garda A4 see inset above
Vercelli Novara MILAN S415 Padua
A21
A7 A1
A4
Susa A4 Pavia Cremona Mantova
A21 S10 S482
Avigliana TURIN A26 Piacenza Sabbioneta
A21
Fidenza Po Greece,
Pinerolo Asti Alessandria Castell' A22 Ferrara S309 Delta Turkey, Egypt
Arquato Parma
A1
S45 Modena A13
A33 A15
S21 Bologna
A6 Ravenna
Cuneo Genoa Rapallo
Mondovì A14
Savona
Garessio A10 Portofino Lunigiana Faenza
FRANCE La Spezia Garfagnana S12 A1 S71 Rimini
Albenga Pèsaro
Lerici Carrara Bagni di Lucca SAN MARINO
Imperia Lucca A11 Prato Fano
San Remo Mallorca, Viareggio FLORENCE Urbino Greece,
Tunisia Sardinia, Palermo Pisa see inset A1 Sansepolcro S3 Ancona Turkey, Cyprus
Corsica
below
Conero
Peninsula
Florence by Road Corsica Livorno San Arezzo Sibillini Grotte di Jesi Loreto
Good fast roads link Florence to Pisa Corsica, Volterra Gimignano S3b Frasassi
to the west, Rome and Siena to the Sardinia Siena Cortona Gubbio S76
south, and Bologna to the north. San Galgano Perugia S77 A14
Massa Pienza Assisi
Marittima Lago Ascoli
Trasimeno
San
Florence and Environs Piombino Quirico S2 Chiusi Spello Piceno
S3b
S1 Montefalco S3 Norcia
Amerigo S223
Vespucci VIA BOLOGNESE Elba Grosseto Todi Spoleto
Rifredi Pitigliano Orvieto A24
VIA PISTOIESE Pescara
S1
L'Aquila
Corsica, Viterbo S4 A25
Sardinia Orbetello S17 Isole
S2 Lanciano Tremiti
A1
Santa A1
Maria Campo di Marte
Novella A25 Sulmona
A12
A14
ROME San Severo
S17
Scanno
VIALE EUROPA S647 S89
VIA SENESE Key International boundary S148 A1 S214 S17 Lucera Foggia

VIA DELLE BA G NESE
Regional boundary Troia Trani
Sermoneta S88 Bari
VIA ROMA A1 0 miles 2 4 Main road Terracina Sperlonga Benevento
Motorway

0 kilometres
AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE MILANO-RO M A
Formia
Railway line Caserta
For additional map symbols see back flap
020-021_EW_Italy.indd 20 4/4/17 5:31 PM

PUT TING IT AL Y ON THE M AP  21

Venice by Road
Venice is joined to the Venice
mainland by a causeway. Marco Polo
This provides easy access Mestre S14b S14
to motorway links with Canale Oselino
Verona and Padua.
V e n e t a
Vipiteno AUSTRIA
Brunico S11
A22
Malles Venosta Bressanone
Merano
SWITZERLAND Parco Nazionale S38 Canazei Cortina d'Ampezzo L a g u n a Santa Lucia
dello Stelvio
Bolzano Tolmezzo
Bormio S52 San Marco
S38 S51 A23
Cividale
Cavalese del Friuli 0 kilometres 4
Sondrio Belluno SLOVENIA
S36
Lago Madonna di Trento S50 Udine 0 miles 2
Domodossola Maggiore Lago di S48 Campiglio Feltre
Como Val Camonica A22 S47 Pordenone S13 A4 Gorizia
S33
Varallo S42 Rovereto S47 A27 A28
Varese Como Bassano
Lago Aquileia
A5 d'Orta Bergamo Lago del Grappa Treviso
Aosta d'Iseo S45 Castello A31 Trieste
Parco Nazionale A26 A8 Monza A4 Brescia di Avio
Vicenza
del Gran Paradiso Lago di Verona VENICE
A5 Garda A4 see inset above
Vercelli Novara MILAN S415 Padua
A21
A7 A1
A4
Susa A4 Pavia Cremona Mantova
A21 S10 S482
Avigliana TURIN A26 Piacenza Sabbioneta
A21
Fidenza Po Greece,
Pinerolo Asti Alessandria Castell' A22 Ferrara S309 Delta Turkey, Egypt
Arquato Parma
A1
S45 Modena A13
A33 A15
S21 Bologna
A6 Ravenna
Cuneo Genoa Rapallo Key to Colour Coding
Mondovì A14
Savona
Garessio A10 Portofino Lunigiana Faenza Northeast Italy
FRANCE La Spezia Garfagnana S12 A1 S71 Rimini
Albenga Pèsaro Venice
Lerici Carrara Bagni di Lucca SAN MARINO
Imperia Lucca A11 Prato Fano The Veneto and Friuli
San Remo Mallorca, Viareggio FLORENCE Urbino Greece, Trentino-Alto Adige
Tunisia Sardinia, Palermo Pisa see inset A1 Sansepolcro S3 Ancona Turkey, Cyprus
Corsica
below
Conero
Jesi Peninsula Northwest Italy
Corsica Livorno San Arezzo Sibillini Grotte di Loreto
Volterra Gimignano Frasassi Lombardy
Corsica, S3b
Sardinia Siena Cortona Gubbio S76 Valle d’Aosta and Piedmont
San Galgano S77 A14
Massa Pienza Perugia Assisi Liguria
Marittima Lago Ascoli
San Trasimeno Central Italy
Piombino Quirico S2 Chiusi S3b Spello Piceno
S1 Montefalco S3 Norcia Emilia-Romagna
S223
Elba
Grosseto Todi Spoleto Florence
Orvieto
Pitigliano
A24 Pescara Tuscany
Umbria
S1
L'Aquila
Corsica, Viterbo S4 A25
Sardinia Orbetello S17 Isole Le Marche
S2 A1 Lanciano Tremiti
A25 Sulmona 0 kilometres 100
A12
0 miles 50
A14
ROME San Severo
S17
Scanno
S647 S89
S214
A1
S17 Lucera
Foggia
S148
Troia Trani
Sermoneta S88 Bari
Sperlonga
Terracina Formia Benevento
Caserta
020-021_EW_Italy.indd 21 4/4/17 5:31 PM

22  INTRODUCING IT AL Y
Ancona
Jesi
Loreto
Southern Italy S76
S77 A14
International airline services operate to Assisi
Ascoli
Rome, Naples and Palermo in southern Montefalco Piceno
Italy. Transport links within the region S3 Norcia
are generally slower than in the north, S2 Todi Spoleto
particularly inland and on the islands A24 Atri Pescara
of Sicily and Sardinia, where buses are Tuscania Bomarzo
S1 Viterbo S3 L'Aquila
often a faster option than trains. Caprarola S17 A25 Ortona Isole
Mainland coastal road and rail links are Tarquinia S2 A1 Lanciano Vasto Tremiti
Rodi
Lago di
good, however, especially those linking Civitavecchia Bracciano A24 Sulmona Termoli Garganico Vieste
A12
Rome and Naples, the region’s main ROME Tivoli Parco Nazionale S17 A14 Peninsula
Gargano
d'Abruzzo
transport hubs, which are connected see inset above Subiaco Scanno S647 San Severo Manfredonia
by a high-speed train service. Two Frascati Anagni A1 S214
S89
trans-Apennine motor ways offer the S148 S17 Lucera Foggia
quickest cross-country routes. Sicily, Troia Trani
Sardinia
Anzio Sermoneta S87 A14 Bari
Sperlonga A16 Ruvo di Croatia,
Terracina Gaeta Benevento Castel del Puglia S96 Greece,
Egypt
Monte
Santa Maria
Genoa, Corsica Genoa, Sicily and Sardinia Capua Vetere Melfi
Livorno Livorno, Ferries operate to Sicily Caserta
Civitavecchia Alberobello S16
from Naples, Villa San NAPLES Brindisi
Costa
Giovanni and Reggio Pompei Matera S7 Greece
Smeralda
S200 di Calabria. Onward Ischia Salerno A3 Potenza
Olbia connections include Amalfi S407 Taranto Lecce
Porto Torres boats to Malta and Capri Sala Metaponto Otranto
Sassari S199 Tunisia. Ferries run to Paestum Consilina Galatina
Sardinia from several Policoro
S131d mainland ports, notably C i l e n t o S18 S106 S275
Alghero Sicily,
Civitavecchia, Genoa Sardinia Greece
Nuoro Cala and Livorno. Maratea
S131
Bosa Gonone
Castrovillari
Genoa,
SARDINIA Civitavecchia
Rossano
Arbatax
Oristano S18 S106
Cosenza S107
S131
Key Crotone
S125
International boundary
S280 Catanzaro
S130 Regional boundary
Lamezia
Cagliari Motorway
Genoa, Main road Tropea Vibo Valentia
Sant' Naples, Civitavecchia,
Antioco Civitavecchia Railway line Genoa, Livorno, Isole Eolie Naples Stilo
Naples, Sardinia A3
Ustica
Tunisia, Gerace
Sicily
Messina S106
Civitavecchia, Milazzo
Naples, Sardinia Tindari
Reggio di Calabria
Palermo
Isole Eolie A20
Monreale Cefalù Taormina
Trapani
Isole Palermo A19 A18
Isole
Egadi Egadi Segesta
SICILY Catania Marsala A29 Naples
Enna A19
S121
S115
Pantelleria Pantelleria, Selinunte Catania
Tunis Tunisia
Piazza
Armerina S417 A18
Agrigento
TUNISIA Isole S115 Pantalica Malta
Pelagie MALTA
Gela S115 Siracusa
Isole Pelagie Noto
Modica
For additional map symbols see back flap
022-023_EW_Italy.indd 22 4/4/17 5:31 PM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Orientations template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.1)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

PUT TING IT AL Y ON THE M AP  23
Ancona
Jesi
Loreto
Rome by Road
S76 Motorway links approach Rome and Environs S2 S3 A1
S77 A14 Rome from Naples, Pescara VIA N OME N TA NA
Assisi and Florence. All feed into 0 kilometres 10 VIA CASSIA
Ascoli
Montefalco S3 Piceno the city’s ring road, the 0 miles 5 S5
Norcia Grande Raccordo Anulare. GRANDE RACCORDO ANULARE VIA TIBURTINA
S2
Todi Spoleto (GRA) VATICAN A24
Tuscania Bomarzo A24 Atri Pescara VIA AURELIA CITY
S1
S1 Viterbo S3 L'Aquila VIA CASILINA
Caprarola S17 A25 Ortona Isole
Tarquinia S2 A1 Lanciano Vasto Tremiti
Lago di Termoli Rodi Vieste A12 VIA APPIA NUOVA A1
Civitavecchia Bracciano A24 Sulmona Garganico
A12 Tivoli
ROME Parco Nazionale S17 A14 Gargano
Peninsula
see inset above Subiaco d'Abruzzo Scanno Manfredonia Leonardo A91 VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO
da Vinci
Anagni S647 San Severo di Fiumicino Tevere (Tiber) Ciampino
Frascati A1 S214 S7
S17 Lucera S89
Foggia
S148
Sicily, Troia Trani
Sardinia
Anzio Sermoneta S87 A14 Bari
Sperlonga A16 Ruvo di Croatia,
Terracina Benevento Castel del Puglia S96 Greece,
Monte
Egypt
Gaeta Santa Maria
Capua Vetere Caserta Melfi
Alberobello S16
Brindisi
NAPLES Matera
Pompei Potenza S7 Greece
Ischia Salerno A3 Taranto Lecce
Amalfi S407
Sala Metaponto
Capri Paestum Consilina Galatina Otranto
Policoro
S106 S275
S18
C i l e n t o
Sicily, Greece
Sardinia
Maratea
Castrovillari
Rossano S106
S18
Cosenza S107
Crotone
S280 Catanzaro
Lamezia
Tropea Vibo Valentia
Civitavecchia,
Genoa, Livorno, Isole Eolie Naples Stilo
Naples, Sardinia A3
Ustica
Gerace
Messina S106
Civitavecchia, Milazzo
Naples, Sardinia Tindari
Reggio di Calabria
Palermo Key to Colour Coding
Monreale Cefalù A20
Trapani A18 Taormina Rome and Lazio
Isole Segesta A19
Egadi Naples Rome
Marsala A29
Lazio
Enna A19 0 kilometres 100
S121
S115
Pantelleria, Selinunte Catania Southern Italy
Tunisia 0 miles 50
Naples and Campania
Piazza
Armerina S417 A18 Abruzzo, Molise and Puglia
Agrigento S115
Pantalica Malta Basilicata and Calabria
Gela S115 Siracusa Sicily
Isole Pelagie Noto
Modica Sardinia
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A POR TR AIT OF IT AL Y  25

A PORTRAIT

OF ITALY


Italy has drawn people in search of culture and romance for many centuries.
Few countries can compete with its Classical origins, its art, architecture,
musical and literary traditions, its scenery or food and wine. The ambiguity of
its modern image is also fascinating: since World War II Italy has climbed into
the top ten world economies, yet at its heart it retains many of the customs,
traditions and regional allegiances of its agricultural heritage.

Italy has no single cultural identity. Bet­ known as Il Mezzogiorno or Land of the
ween the northern snow­capped peaks Midday Sun. The frontier separating the
of the Alps and the rugged southern two is indeterminate, lying somewhere
shores of Sicily lies a plethora of distinctive between Rome and Naples.
regions and peoples. Politically, Italy is a The north is directly responsible
young country: it did not exist as a unified for Italy’s place among the world’s
nation state until 1870, and its 20 regions top industrial nations. It has been
have maintained their cultural individ­ the powerhouse behind the Italian
uality. Visitors to Italy are often pleasantly economic miracle, its success achieved
surprised by the diversity of its dialects, by internationally renowned names such
cuisines and architecture. There is also a as Fiat, Prada, Ferragamo, Pirelli, Olivetti,
larger regional division. People speak of Zanussi, Alessi and Armani. In contrast,
two distinct Italies: the rich, industrial the south, once a cradle of high culture
north and the poorer, agricultural south, and civilization, has been dogged by































The rooftops of Montalcino, viewed from the town’s fortress
Cobbled lane in the coastal fishing town of Cefalù, Sicily



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26  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

unemployment and organized crime. Some
of its areas rank among the most depressed
in Europe, although many southern towns
did benefit from an injection of funds from
the Millennium Project.
The historic divide between north
and south is a powerful factor in
contemporary politics. The federalist
party, the Northern League, owes its
popularity to this split. Those in favour
of sepa ration complain that the south
is a drain on resources: Milan is seen as
efficient and rich, while Naples is viewed
as chaotic, dirty and corrupt.
History and geography have both
contributed to the division. The north
is closer in both location and spirit to
Germany and France, while the south has
suffered a succession of invasions from A scooter parked in front of the Bar Duomo, Piazza Duomo in Cefalù
foreign powers: Carthaginians and Greeks
in ancient times, Saracens and Normans In southern Italy the landscape,
in the Middle Ages and, until the middle architecture, dialects, food, and even
of the 19th century, the Bourbons from the appearance of the people have
Spain held sway. closer affinities with the Eastern
Mediterranean and North Africa than
Tradition with northern Europe. In the far south,
Distinctive variations in Italy’s regions study of the local dialects has revealed
have much to do with the mountainous traces of ancient Greek and old Albanian,
landscape and inaccessible valleys. Tuscan preserved in tightly knit communities
and Ligurian hill-towns, for instance, isolated by the rugged geography.
have quite different silhouettes, and the Christianity and pagan ritual are
farmhouses in Puglia, the famous trulli, closely linked; some times the Virgin is
are unlike those found in the landscape portrayed as a thinly disguised Demeter,
of Emilia-Romagna. the Earth goddess.




















Café-goers relaxing in Marina di Pisa, Tuscany




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A POR TR AIT OF IT AL Y  27


























Medieval skyscrapers in the Tuscan landscape of San Gimignano

Throughout Italy, ancient techniques of them in good repair. Many museums in
husbandry endure and many livelihoods Italy, particularly those in the south, are
are closely connected to the land and the closed, or partially closed. You may find
seasons. Main crops include sugar beet, churches in Venice hidden behind
maize, wheat, olives and grapes; colourful permanent scaffolding or those in Abruzzo
Easter celebrations (see p70) pay tribute shut due to earthquake damage. However,
to the bounty of the soil. Although some with tourism accounting for around 12 per
of the north’s postwar economic cent of Italy’s gross domestic product,
prosperity can be attributed to indus try
(especially car production in and around
Turin), much of it has grown from the
expansion of family-owned artisan
businesses and the export of handmade
goods abroad. This is recognized as a
distinct sector of the economy. The
internationally successful retail clothes
chain Prada is a good example. The “Made
in Italy” label, found on goods such as
clothes, shoes and leather bags, guarantees
the items have been beautifully produced.
Culture and Arts
The arts in Italy have had a long and
glorious history and Italians are very
proud of this. Given the fact that Italy has
more than 100,000 monuments (archaeo-
logical sites, cathed rals, churches, houses
and statues), all of which have major
historical significance, it is not surprising
that there is a shortage of funds to keep Bernini’s 17th-century Fontana del Tritone, Rome




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28  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

reserve ciao (hello or goodbye) for friends
your age or younger, and greet older
people with piacere (pleased to meet you),
buon giorno (good day) or buona sera (good
evening) and, on parting, say arrivederci
(goodbye). Strangers are met with a hand-
shake, but family and friends receive a kiss.
Italian chic decrees that the clothes
you wear should give the impression of
wealth. Italians are conformists in fashion.
Italian politics, in contrast, are not so well
regulated. Governments in the postwar
era were characterized by short-lived
coalitions, dominated by the Christian
Democrats. In 1993 Italy experienced
a political crisis when an organized
network of corruption was exposed,
disgracing a huge num ber of politicians
Roadside stall near Positano, Campania and businessmen. The investigations may
have failed to eradicate corruption, but
efforts are being made to put as many they led to the formation of two large
buildings and collections on show as coalitions, centre-left and centre-right.
possible. The Jubilee 2000 helped matters Silvio Berlusconi, leader of Forza Italia,
by allocating large amounts of money became prime minister in 1994 but lasted
for the restoration of buildings and sites a short while, as he, too, was accused of
belonging to the Catholic Church. corruption. In 1998 Massimo D’Alema
The performing arts are also underfunded, became Italy’s first left-wing prime
yet there are some spectacular cultural minister. For over a decade, Italy saw an
festivals. Almost every town of any alternation between the two coalitions,
size has its own opera house and the with Berlusconi dominating. In August
Teatro alla Scala in Milan stages world-
class productions.
Cinema is another flourishing art form
in Italy and has been so since its invention.
The sets at Cinecittà, on the outskirts of
Rome, have been used by famous
directors such as Fellini, Pasolini, de Sica,
Visconti and many others. Italian films
such as La Vita è Bella and The Son’s Room
have found critical acclaim and box-office
success both in Italy and abroad. In Italy
the arts belong to everyone: opera is
attended by people from all backgrounds,
regardless of social status, as are cinemas
and galleries.
Social Customs and Politics
Italian society is still highly traditional, and
Italians can be very formal. Between the
generations degrees of famili arity exist: Diners relaxing at a restaurant in Orta San Giulio, Piedmont




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A POR TR AIT OF IT AL Y  29
































The solution to heavy traffic in Rome: motorbikes and scooters
2013, Berlusconi was barred from any public The emphasis on conformity and a
office for seven years for tax fraud. In 2014, commitment to the institution of the family
leftist Democrat Matteo Renzi became Italy’s remain key factors in Italian society despite
youngest prime minister. In December the country’s low birth rate. Grandparents,
2016, Renzi resigned after his plans for children and grandchildren often still live in
reform were defeated in a referendum. family units, although this is becoming
less common. Women’s Liberation fought
Modern Life a powerful campaign in the 1970s and did
Food and football are the great constants; much to change attitudes to women in
Italians live for both. Much time is spent the workplace, particularly in metropolitan
on preparing food and eating. The Italian areas. However, the idea that men should
diet, particularly in the south, is among help with housework and the care of the
the healthiest in the world. Football is a children is still a fairly foreign notion
national passion and inspires massive among the older generation.
public interest and media attention, With the miracle of its postwar economic
not least as a way of expressing recovery, where industry and technology
regional loyalties. were united with design, Italy became a
As far as religion is concerned, the success story. Although the economy has
number of practising Catholics has been badly affected by the worldwide
been in de cline for some years. Although recessions and political upheaval including
Rome lies at the centre of world the exposure of corruption in public offices,
Catholicism, today many Italians are Italy appears unchanged to foreign visitors.
uninterested in religion, but still attend Its ability to keep its regional identities and
Mass in number on saints’ days or feast traditional values seems to have allowed
days. As a result of immigra tion, other the country to ride out the difficulties of
religions are now on the increase. recent years relatively unscathed.




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30  In T roduCI n g IT a ly

Medieval and Early Renaissance Art

The story of early Italian art, from the 13th century until
the late 15th century, illuminates one of the richest periods
in European art history. For the first time since Classical
antiquity, painters and sculptors created a convincing
pictorial space in which figures, modelled “in the round”,
were given life. Ethereal buildings were replaced by
those firmly rooted in the real world,
reproducing what artists actually
saw. This revolution in art
included the reintroduction
of the fresco technique,
giving artists huge surfaces
for telling pictorial stories. c.1305 Giotto di Bondone,
The Meeting at the Golden Gate (Cappella
1235 degli Scrovegni, Padua). Giotto broke
Bonaventura away from the ornate Byzantine style
Berlinghieri, to visualize naturalness and human
St Francis Altarpiece emotions. His way of working would
(San Francesco, Pescia) later be dubbed the Florentine style.
1285 Duccio di Buoninsegna, Rucellai 1339 Ambrogio Lorenzetti,
Madonna, panel (Uffizi, Florence). Good Government Enthroned
Duccio dominated the Sienese painting (Sala dei Nove, Palazzo
style, which combined bold linear Pubblico, Siena)
movements with a new human intimacy.
1220 1240 1260 1280 1300 1320 1340
Middle Ages Forerunners to Renaissance
1220 1240 1260 1280 1300 1320 1340
c.1259 Nicola Pisano, Pulpit c.1316–18
(Baptistry, Pisa cathedral) Simone Martini,
Vision of St Martin
(Lower Church of San
c.1265 Coppo
di Marcovaldo, Francesco, Assisi)
Madonna and Child
(Santa Monica dei
Servi, Orvieto) c.1297 Giovanni Pisano,
Pulpit (Sant’Andrea, Pistoia)
c.1280 Cimabue, Madonna
Enthroned with Angels and c.1336 Andrea Pisano,
Prophets, also known as Santa Baptism of St John the Baptist,
Trinità Madonna (Uffizi, Florence)
panel on the South Doors
(Baptistry, Florence cathedral)
c.1291 Pietro Cavallini,
Last Judgment, detail (Santa
Cecilia, Trastevere, Rome)



















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A por tr A it of it A ly  31



c.1435 Donatello, David
c.1425–52 Lorenzo (Museo del Bargello, Florence)
Ghiberti, Solomon and the
Queen of Sheba, panel on the
East Doors (Baptistry, Florence
cathedral). These elaborate doors
mark a transition from the Gothic
style to the Early Renaissance
style, in Florence.
1357 Andrea Orcagna, Enthroned Christ with
Madonna and Saints (Strozzi Altarpiece, Santa
Maria Novella, Florence)







c.1452–65 Piero della
Francesca, detail of The
Dream of Constantine
(San Francesco, Arezzo)
c.1456 Paolo
Uccello, Battle
c.1410 Nanni di Banco, Four Crowned of San Romano
Martyrs (Orsanmichele, Florence) (Uffizi, Florence)
1340 1360 1380 1400 1420 1440 1460
Early Renaissance
1340 1360 1380 1400 1420 1440 1460
1423 Gentile da c.1440 Fra Angelico,
Fabriano, Adoration of the Annunciation (San
Magi (Uffizi, Florence) Marco, Florence)
c.1463 Piero della Francesca,
Resurrection (Pinacoteca,
c.1350 Francesco Traini, Triumph Sansepolcro)
of Death (Campo Santo, Pisa)
c.1465 Fra Filippo Lippi,
Madonna with Child and
c.1425–8 Angels (Uffizi, Florence)
Masaccio, The
Tribute Money
(Cappella c.1465–74 Andrea Mantegna,
Brancacci, Arrival of Cardinal Francesco
Florence) Gonzaga (Palazzo Ducale, Mantova)
c.1470 Andrea del Verrocchio,
David (Bargello, Florence)

Fresco Technique
Fresco, meaning “fresh”, refers to the
technique of painting onto a thin
layer of damp, freshly laid plaster.
Pigments are drawn into the plaster
by surface tension and the colour
becomes fixed as the plaster dries.
The pigments react with the lime in
the plaster to produce strong, rich
colours, such as those in Masaccio’s
The Tribute Money.
The Tribute Money by Masaccio (Cappella Brancacci, Florence)




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32  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

High Renaissance Art

The High Renaissance in the late 15th century was marked by
an increasing sense of realism in many religious works and
the technical mastery of such renowned artists as Michelangelo,
Leonardo da Vinci and Raphael. The different schools of
Renaissance painting, while drawing on Classical models,
produced varying styles: Florentine painting was noted for its
cool clarity, while sensuous colour and warm light characterized
many Venetian works. By the mid-16th century, however, these
styles shifted to the fanciful, contorted imagery of Mannerism.
c.1480 Andrea Mantegna, c.1503–5 Leonardo
Dead Christ (Brera, Milan) da Vinci, Mona Lisa
(Louvre, Paris)
1481–2 Sistine Chapel wall 1519–26 Titian, Madonna of the
frescoes painted by various artists. Pesaro Family (Santa Maria
c.1481–2 Pietro Perugino, Gloriosa dei Frari, Venice)
Christ Delivering the Keys of the Kingdom to 1505 Raphael,
St Peter, wall fresco (Sistine Chapel, Rome) Madonna of
the Goldfinch
c.1483–88 Andrea del Verrocchio, completed by (Uffizi, Florence)
Alessandro Leopardi, Equestrian Monument of Bartolomeo
Colleoni (Campo dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo, Venice) 1508–12 Michelangelo,
Sistine Chapel ceiling (The Vatican,
c.1487 Giovanni c.1495 Leonardo da Rome). Over 200 preliminary
Bellini, San Giobbe Vinci, Last Supper drawings were made for this
Altarpiece (Accade mia, (Santa Maria delle incredible vision of God’s power
Venice) Grazie, Milan) and humanity’s spiritual awakening.
1480 1500 1520
High Renaissance Mannerism
1480 1500 1520
1499–1504 Luca
Signorelli, Damned
1485 Consigned to Hell (Cappella
Leonardo da Nuova, Orvieto cathedral) 1517 Sodoma,
Vinci, Virgin Marriage of Alexander
of the Rocks 1501–4 Michelangelo, David and Roxana (Villa
(Louvre, Paris) (Galleria dell’Accademia, Florence) c.1508 Farnesina, Rome)
Giorgione,
1505 Giovanni Bellini, Madonna and Tempesta
Child with Four Saints (San Zaccaria (Accademia,
c.1485 Sandro altarpiece, Accademia, Venice) Venice)
Botticelli, 1516 Michelangelo,
Birth of Venus Dying Slave
(Uffizi, Florence) 1509 Raphael, School of Athens (Stanza (Louvre, Paris)
della Segnatura, The Vatican, Rome).
c.1486 Leonardo The scale, magnificence and harmony
da Vinci, Uomo of this fresco represent the ideals of
Vitruviano (Accademia, the High Renaissance. These ideals 1512–14 Raphael, Angel
Venice) Delivering St Peter from Prison,
sought to express superhuman detail from the Liberation of
rather than human values. St Peter from Prison (Stanza di
Eliodoro, Vatican, Rome)
















032-033_EW_Italy.indd 32 26/04/16 5:14 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight history timeline template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 27th July 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

A POR TR AIT OF IT AL Y  33

1523 Rosso Fiorentino,
Moses Defends the
Daughters of Jethro
(Uffizi, Florence)









1530–32 Giulio Romano,
Ceiling and wall frescoes (Sala dei
Giganti, Palazzo del Tè, Mantova)
c.1532 Michelangelo,
“Blockhead” Captive
(Galleria dell’ Accademia,
Florence)
1534–5 Paris c.1562–6 Jacopo Tintoretto,
Bordone, Fisherman Finding of the Body of St Mark
Delivering the Ring (Brera, Milan)
(Accademia, Venice)
1534–41 c.1550 Moretto, Ecce Homo
Michelangelo, Last c.1540–42 Titian, David with Angel (Pinacoteca Tosio
Judgment, wall fresco and Goliath (Santa Maria Martinengo, Brescia)
(Sistine Chapel, Rome) della Salute, Venice)
1520 1540 1560
Mannerism
1520 1540 1560
1538 Titian, c.1546 Titian,
Venus of Urbino Portrait of Pope Paul III
(Uffizi, Florence) Farnese with his
Nephews (Museo di
Capodimonte, Naples)
c.1534–40
Parmigianino,
Madonna and Angels or
Madonna with the Long
Neck (Uffizi, Florence).
Attenuated
proportions and
contrasting colours
make this a fine
example of the
Mannerist style.

c.1540 Agnolo Bronzino,
Portrait of Lucrezia Panciatichi 1556 Veronese,
(Uffizi, Florence). Elongated Triumph of Mordecai
features, such as Lucrezia’s (San Sebastiano, Venice)
fingers, are typical of
the exaggerated
Mannerist style.


c.1526–30 Correggio, Assumption of the
Virgin (Dome of Parma Cathedral). Neither a
Mannerist nor a High Renaissance painter,
Correggio was a master of illusion, skilled at
making ascending figures float convincingly,
as seen in the fresco on the left.



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34  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

Italian Architecture

The buildings of Italy span almost 3,000 years,
drawing influences from a wide variety of sources.
Etruscan and Roman buildings borrowed heavily
from ancient Greece, while in later centuries
Norman, Arabic and Byzantine styles coloured
Italy’s Romanesque and Gothic architecture.
Classical ideals infused the country’s Renaissance
buildings, later giving way to the inspired
innovations of the Baroque period.

Orvieto’s Duomo displays the ornate and
intricate decoration, notably sculp ture, common
to many Gothic cathedrals. Building stretched
from the 13th to the early 17th centuries.



The Basilica di San Marco (AD 832–
1094) in Venice combines Classical,
Romanesque and Gothic architecture,
but its key inspiration was
Byzantine (see pp114–15).
The Basilica di San Marco
200 400 600 800 1000 1200
Classical Byzantine Romanesque
200 400 600 800 1000 1200
The round-arched
Romanesque style
Triumphal arches such as emerged from the
Rome’s Arch of Constantine Dark Ages in structures
(AD 315) were a uniquely such as the Duomo in
Roman invention. Built to Modena. The churches
celebrate military victories, usually had simple
they were adorned with interiors that derived
reliefs depicting episodes from Roman basilicas.
from successful campaigns
(see p384).
The building of domes over square
or rectangular spaces was a major
development of the Byzantine era.
Etruscan Architecture
Virtually the only architectural memorials to the Etruscans are their
necropolises (c. 6th century BC), found primarily in Tuscany, Lazio
and Umbria. Little else survives, probably because most day-to-
day buildings were made from wood.
The Etruscans’ close cultural and
trading ties with Greece,
however, suggest their
architecture would have
borrowed heavily from
Greek models. Rome,
in turn, looked to The cathedral of Monreale
Etruscan architecture in Sicily, built in the 12th century,
for inspiration, and most contains Norman elements blended
early Roman public with exotic Arabic and Byzantine
Model of Etruscan temple buildings were probably decoration (see pp534–5).
with Classical Greek portico Etruscan in style.





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A POR TR AIT OF IT AL Y  35

















Bramante’s Tempietto at Baroque façades, Industrial innovations in glass and
San Pietro in Montorio, Rome such as this one added to metal were applied in new buildings, like
(built in 1502–10, see p433) Syracuse’s Duomo between Mengoni’s imposing Galleria Vittorio
was a Renaissance tribute to 1728 and 1754, were often Emanuele II (1865) in Milan (see p198).
the precise, Classical temples grafted onto older churches.
of ancient Rome.
The Mole Antonelliana (1863–89), in
Turin, topped by a soaring granite spire,
was for a time the tallest building in the
The Classical ideals of Papal patronage and the world (p228).
Rome and ancient Greece vigour of the Counter-
were reintroduced into Reformation fuelled the Torre Velasca’s 26-floor
Italian architecture during Baroque, a period of tower in Milan (1950s)
the Renaissance. architectural splendour, pioneered the use of
invention and exuberance. reinforced concrete.
1200 1400 1600 1800 2000
Romanesque Renaissance Baroque 19th Century 20th Century
1200 1400 1600 1800 2000

Santa Maria Gian Lorenzo Bernini
Novella in (1598–1680), architect
Siena’s Duomo Florence has of St Peter’s Square, was
(1136–82), a vast a Renaissance a dominant figure in
Romanesque- façade (1456– Roman Baroque.
Gothic cathedral, 70) by Alberti
went through 200 and a Gothic
years of architectural interior. Andrea Palladio (1508–80) built
transformation Neo-Classical villas and palazzi. His
(see pp346–7). style was imitated in Europe for The MAXXI building,
Outer skin of over two centuries (see pp84–5). which houses the National
dome, Museum of 21st Century Arts
Lantern supported by (see p445), was designed by
24 ribs the architect Zaha Hadid.
Inner
shell








Brunelleschi’s dome for the
Duomo in Florence, completed
in 1436, was a masterpiece
of Renaissance design and The Pirelli building in Milan,
ingenious engineering (see p257). The Gesù in Rome was designed for designed by Ponti and Nervi
the Jesuits by Vignola in 1568. With its (late 1950s), is a great example
powerful façade and lavish decoration of modern Italian architecture
it was the prototype for countless (see p189).
other Baroque churches (see p385).



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36  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

Saints and Symbols in Italian Art

Saints and symbols are especially important
in Italian art. They form part of an established The Evangelists
visual language used by artists to narrate
stories of the Bible and the Catholic Church The four evangelists,
to churchgoers. Paintings of the saints Matthew, Mark, Luke
and John are each
were the focus for prayer and each offered represented by a winged
assistance in a particular aspect of daily life. creature, standing for Eagle
Patron saints protected specific cities or trades, a divine mission. (St John)
and individuals who bore their name. Saints’
days and religious festivals still play an St John carries a St Thomas Aquinas is usually
important part in Italian life. book of the Gospel shown with a star, barely
bearing his name. visible in this painting,
on his Dominican habit.
St Mark the Evangelist often
St Dominic is usually St Cosmas and holds his book of the Gospels.
portrayed wearing St Damian are St Lawrence carries
the habit of his order. always shown a palm leaf as well as
The lily is another of together, dressed in the gridiron on which
his attributes. physicians’ clothing. he was roasted.






















Virgin Enthroned with the Child
and Saints (c.1450) was painted on The Virgin, usually shown St Peter Martyr, here with
dry plaster by the Dominican friar Fra in blue robes, is depicted a palm leaf, is sometimes
Angelico. It is on display at the Museo as Mater Amabilis – the depicted with a head
di San Marco, Florence (see p280). “Mother Worthy of Love”. wound, carrying a sword.

Symbols
In order to identify different saints
or martyrs they were given “attributes”
or symbols – particular objects to
carry, or clothing to wear. These were
items that played a particular role in
their life story. Martyrs were known
by their instruments of torture or
death. Symbolism also appears in The lamb symbolizes Christ, The skull is a memento mori
the sky, animals, flowers, colours the Lamb of God, or, in early to remind us of death and
and numbers. Christian art, the sinner. impermanence.






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Winged man Winged lion Winged ox
(St Matthew) (St Mark) (St Luke)
Giovanni Bellini’s painting Madonna
St Peter the Apostle, the “rock” The Madonna, with the Christ and Child with Four Saints (see p123)
on which the Christian church was Child, is an emblem of perfect
founded, carries the keys to Heaven. motherly love.
St Catherine of
Alexandria is shown St Jerome is always
here with a piece of portrayed as an old man,
the wheel on which often a hermit, whose life
she was martyred. was devoted to scholarship.























Detail from Madonna and Child
with Four Saints, by Giovanni Bellini. St Lucy is depicted here
The painting was produced in 1505 for The angel, a messenger of holding her own eyes in a dish.
an altarpiece at San Zaccaria, Venice, God to man, is portrayed in this She became the patron saint of
where it is still on display. scene as a musician of Heaven. the blind and symbolizes light.










The lily, flower of the Virgin, is The cockle shell most often The palm represents, in
the symbol of purity, resurrection, represents pilgrimage. It is a Christian art, a martyr’s
peace and chastity. particular attribute of St Roch. triumph over death.






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38  I n TRODUCI n g IT a L y

Writers, Poets and Dramatists

Italy has produced many writers (in Latin Primo Levi (1919–87) gave an
and Italian) who have won worldwide astonishing account of his survival
of the Jewish Holocaust and
acclaim. Each of them provides an World War II’s aftermath in
illuminating insight into the country’s The Truce and If This Is A Man.
turbulent past: the Classical poets Virgil, Trentino-
Horace and Ovid give vivid accounts of Alto Adige
the concerns and values of ancient Rome; The Veneto
medieval Florence and Tuscany are brought and Friuli
to life in the poetry of Dante and Petrarch Lombardy
and the salacious tales of Boccaccio. These
three great writers, in less than a century,
Valle d’Aosta
created a new literary language to rank and Piedmont
with any in Europe. Italy’s modern literature Emilia-
still commands international attention – Liguria Romagna
Umberto Eco has to his credit one of the
most widely read books of the 20th century.

Dario Fo (born 1926)
won the Nobel Prize Tuscany
for Literature in 1997.








Umberto Eco (born 1932), a professor at the
University of Bologna, wrote the novel The Name
of The Rose, which explored his passion for the
Middle Ages. The book was made into a film
(above) in 1986.


Giovanni Boccaccio
(1313–75) is notable for
providing a fascinating
social record of his era.
The Decameron, his
captivating collection of
100 short stories, is set
in the plague-stricken
Florence of 1348.






Dante’s (1265–1321)
Pinocchio, written by Carlo Divine Comedy (c.1308–
Collodi (1826–90) in 1883, is 21) is a journey through
one of the world’s best-known Hell, Purgatory and
children’s stories. “Collodi” was Paradise. It includes
Carlo Lorenzini’s pseudonym, horrific accounts of the
taken after his mother’s torments suffered by
birthplace in Tuscany. the damned.




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Classical Roman Writers
Texts in Latin by Classical Roman philosophers, poets,
dramatists and politicians are part of the bedrock of
Western culture. Today the names Virgil (The Aeneid), Ovid
(Metamorphoses) and Pliny (Historia Naturalis) are literary
legends. Fascinating histories such as Livy’s Early History of
Rome, Caesar’s Gallic Wars, Tacitus’s Annals and Suetonius’s
Trentino-
Alto Adige The Twelve Caesars, give us an invaluable window on the
The Veneto distant Roman past, as do the
and Friuli caustic Satires of Juvenal. Many
Venetian author Carlo Latin works owe their survival
Goldoni (1707–93) to the teams of medieval
reacted against the satirical monks who diligently copied
tradition of commèdia and illustrated them. In the
dell’arte, preferring to write Renaissance the stories of Ovid’s
more forgiving plays on Metamorphoses were plundered
contemporary Venice society. by many writers and the works of
Cicero had a profound influence
on prose style; Seneca was seen
as a master of tragedy and
Plautus’s Pot of Gold served Detail from medieval copy of
as a model for comedies. Pliny’s Historia Naturalis
Petrarch (1304–74), one
Le Marche of the earliest and greatest
lyric poets, produced works
which showed the first
Umbria indications of Humanism.

St Francis of Assisi (1182–
1226) was the first author to
Lazio
write in Italian instead of
formal Latin. As well as
Abruzzo, Molise letters and sermons, he
and Puglia wrote poems and songs,
including the popular
Canticle of the Sun.
Campania

Basilicata
and
Calabria
Roman writer Alberto Moravia
(1907–90) is usually labelled a
“Neo-Realist”. His novels and
short stories focus on the corrupt
values of contemporary society.
Among his best-known works
are Gli Indifferenti and Agostino.




Sicily
The Sicilian Nobel Prize-winner
Luigi Pirandello (1867–1936)
was preoccupied with
themes of illusion and reality.
0 kilometres 200 Six Characters in Search of an
0 miles 100 Author is his most famous work.




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40  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

Music and Opera in Italy

Before Italy’s unification, particularly during the 17th The Baroque Era
and 18th centuries, each major city had its own traditions
of music-making. Rome, as the papal city, had musical Claudio Monteverdi’s music
straddled the transition from
traditions less hedonistic than elsewhere, and avoided the Renaissance period to
opera. Florence had its day at the turn of the 16th century, 17th-century Baroque. The
with its celebrated camerata (groups set on reviving the word baroque means “highly
traditions of ancient Greek spectacle). Venice fostered ornamented, even bizarre”,
church music on a grand scale, and Naples, during the and embellishment was rife.
18th century, was renowned for comic opera. In the Monteverdi’s madrigals began
as standard pieces for four
19th century, Milan became the undisputed heart voices but ended up as
of Italian opera, centred on La Scala. mini-operas. This
was due to the
popularity of
the Ars Perfecta an individual
The Medieval and style, culminating instrumental
Renaissance Periods
with composer style and the
Through Boccaccio (see p38), Giovanni Pierluigi development of
among others, it is known that da Pale strina (1525– the basso continuo
singing, dancing and poetry 94). His vocal (a supporting
often went hand in hand in style subjected organ, harpsichord
medieval and Renaissance Italy. dissonance to or lute that
Italy concentrated on music as strict control, La Pietà, Venice, where unleashed the
part of a spectacle rather than and it was employed Vivaldi performed possibility for solos
as a pure art form. for most church music and duets). At this point, the
Important contributors to during his lifetime. Madrigals beginnings of the string
the music of these periods (vocal settings of poems by orchestra were in place.
include Guido d’Arezzo Petrarch and other poets) were A new fashion for declamation
(c.995–1050), a monk who also popular. meant that various emotional
perfected musical notation, The early 17th century saw states were being represented
and Francesco Landini (1325– Italian composers such as Carlo with sighs and sobs rather than
97), one of the first known Gesualdo da Venosa (c.1561– just description. Monteverdi’s
composers whose songs 1613) and Claudio Monteverdi Vespers followed others in
displayed a distinct concern challenge these traditions by exploiting the stereophonic
for lyricism. The next 150 years introducing more declamation possibilities of San Marco in
were to be characterized by and more of the unexpected. Venice by contrasting different


Major Italian Composers through the Ages















Claudio Monteverdi Antonio Vivaldi (1678–1741) Gioacchino Rossini (1792–1868)
(1567–1643) was best known wrote over 600 concertos, was most famous for his comic
for his Vespers of 1610. His many of which are for the violin. operas, like The Barber of Seville
madrigals and operas are The Four Seasons, a set of and La Cenerentola. The romantic,
both considered major land - concertos, is among the expressive side of his more
marks in the develop ment best-selling classical music serious works, such as Otello,
of music. of all time. was often overlooked.




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A POR TR AIT OF IT AL Y  41



The 20th Century
In the early 20th century,
Puccini’s La Fanciulla del West
(The Girl of the West) brought
cowboys into opera, Turandot
looked towards the Orient and
Tosca brought torture and
murder. Some composers
have attempted to emulate
French and German music,
and only a few Italian pieces,
such as those by Otto rino
Respighi (1879–1936), have
Luciano Pavarotti brought opera to a wider international audience been regularly perform ed.
The most important name in
forces in different parts of firmly in the opera repertoire. post-war Italian music was
the building. In the 1680s, During the 17th century, Luciano Berio (1925–2003),
Arcangelo Corelli (1653–1713) Alessandro Scarlatti (1660–1725) who developed Music Theatre,
turned to classicism. Corelli was formulated a model which an art form lying somewhere
famous for the concerto grosso, consisted of an orchestral over- between drama and opera. In
a style that contrasted the ture followed by a later years, however,
solo string group with the full sequence of narrat- Berio continued the
ensemble. He was followed ive, set as recitative, tradition of Grand
by Antonio Vivaldi (1678–1741), and interrupted by Opera with his
who concentrated his efforts on da capo (three-part) elaborate production
developing the solo form of the arias. Themes for the of Un Re in Ascolto.
concerto grosso. He used wind weightier opera seria But it is Luciano
and plucked instruments as were largely drawn Pavarotti (1935–2007)
well as violins. from mythology, who must be credited
while the lighter with renewing an
opera buffa had international interest
The Emergence of Opera
stock scenes that in opera. In the 1990s,
Opera first emerged during the sometimes owed his televised perform-
wedding celebrations of Italy’s a large debt to ances with “Three
wealthy 16th-century families. the traditions of Tenors” co-stars José
Monteverdi was the first com- commèdia dell’arte. Carreras and Placido
poser to establish his work Famous for his Domingo secured a
comic operas, such Puccini’s Tosca, first massive world
as The Barber of Seville, staged in 1900 audience for opera.
was the composer Another star of opera
Gioacchino Rossini. Among and classical music is inter-
other contributors, Vincenzo nationally renowned conductor
Bellini (1801–35) and Gaetano Riccardo Muti, former director
Donizetti (1797–1848) of La Scala and now the director
developed bel canto singing, of Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera.
a style stressing fine tone
and ornamentation.
The two most prominent
opera composers of the latter
half of the 19th century were
Giuseppe Verdi and Giacomo
Puccini (1858–1924). Verdi
often turned to the works
of Shakespeare as well as
to contemporary subjects
Giuseppe Verdi (1813–1901), in order to form a basis for his
whose first works were for the work, while many composers,
opera house La Scala (see p197), like Puccini, turned to the new
was the most important opera trend of verismo (slices of
composer of the 19th century. realism) – La Bohème is one
His most celebrated works of the most refined examples The illuminated interior of
include Rigoletto and Aida. of this style. Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera




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42  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

Italian Design

Italy has had phenomenal success evolving stylish, desirable
forms for everyday objects. Its 20th-century achievements
can be credited to a handful of forward-thinking industrial
giants, such as Olivetti, willing to entrust important product
decisions to a group of inspired designers, like Ettore Sottsass.
The design genius was to rethink the function of consumer The streamlined aesthetic of
objects, apply new technology, and then make Italian design extends even to
pasta; this Marille version was
the result look seductive. created by car designer Giorgio
Giugiaro for Voiello in 1983.













Sleek, sculptural Alessi cutlery The Alessi kettle (1985), One of the best-known
(1988), designed by Ettore designed by Michael Graves, coffeemakers is Bialetti’s Moka
Sottsass, combines maximum achieved such popularity in its Express. Although designed in
utility with elegance and first year of production that over 1930, it is still enormously
aesthetic integrity. 100,000 were sold. popular today.
















Christophe Pilet’s chair,
designed for Giulio Cappellini’s The folding Cumano table, The Patty Difusa chair, with unusual
collection of contemporary designed by Achille Castiglione wooden arms that curve into legs,
furniture, is a wonderful example for Zanotta in 1979, is still revered was designed by William Sawaya for
of the 1990s aesthetic, and is still as a “designer object”. Sawaya & Moroni in Milan.
available for purchase.









Pininfarina’s streamlined form for the Ferrari Testarossa
(1986) pushes car design almost into the realms of sculpture.





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A POR TR AIT OF IT AL Y  43













Light in weight, and compact in
shape, Olivetti’s Valentine typewriter
revolutionized the role of the desk
typewriter. Designed by Ettore
Sottsass in 1969, its portability
allowed the user to work anywhere.









Italian printer Giambattista Milan’s Giorgio Armani is best Prada, the Milan-based fashion
Bodoni (1740–1813) designed the known for creating a flattering, house headed by Miuccia Prada,
sophisticated typeface that bears smart and comfortable look. He features minimalist, cutting-
his name and is still popular 200 often relies on muted colours, edge designs and the use of
years after its creation. such as beige, black or grey. innovative fabrics.











Florence has a long reputation as a Gucci’s classic items,
producer of high-quality crafts, particularly including bags and
fashion accessories such as handbags, loafers, are a revered
shoes, belts, jewellery and briefcases. totem for the fashion-
conscious.
The Artemide company
is renowned for combining Piaggio’s innovative Vespa scooter
metal and glass in many (1946), by Corradino d’Ascanio, provided
of their designs, especially cheap, fast and reliable transport at a
lamps and lighting fixtures. time when few could afford the expense
of a car. Hugely successful, the Vespa is
still a common sight on
Italy’s streets.




The Fiat 500 (1957), like the Vespa,
became a symbol of mobility and
democratization, an expression of
Italy’s rapid postwar recovery.





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44  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

Scientists, Inventors and Explorers

Italy has fostered a long tradition of important scientific
thought and discovery, fuelled in the Renaissance by such
men as Galileo, who searched for a new understanding of Trentino-
the universe. Meanwhile, explorers such as Alto Adige
Columbus had set off to find new worlds, a
move heralded in the 13th century by Marco Lombardy
Polo. The spirit of scientific enquiry continued
up to the 20th century, with the invention Valle d’Aosta
of radio and pioneering work in the field of and
nuclear physics. Piedmont
Emilia-
Liguria Romagna
Genoese-born Christopher
Columbus sailed west from
Spain in 1492. He reached the
Indies in three months, Tuscany
navigating with such
aids as an astrolabe.



Umbria



The explorer Amerigo Vespucci
established that the New World was
a separate land mass. A pamphlet
wrongly described him as its
discoverer, and so, in 1507,
America acquired its name.






Guglielmo Marconi invented the first
practical system for sending radio signals.
In 1901, he succeeded in picking up a
signal that had been sent to England
from Newfoundland.





Leonardo da Vinci was the
ultimate Renaissance man,
accomplished in both arts and The telescope enabled
sciences. He conceived his first astronomers to produce
design for a flying machine in accurate lunar maps.
c.1488, more than 400 years Domenico Cassini,
before the first aeroplane took astronomy professor at
off. This model is based on one Bologna University,
of his technical drawings. refined the instrument.
In 1665 he traced the
0 kilometres 200
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0 miles 100 church of San Petronio.



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A POR TR AIT OF IT AL Y  45

Padua University, founded in
1222, was a centre of scientific
learning in the Renaissance.
Galileo, inventor of the telescope,
taught physics here, and the
Trentino- The Veneto lectern he used is still on view.
Alto Adige and Friuli






The Venetian Marco Polo
set off for the East as a youth
in 1271. He stayed at the court
of the Mongol emperor Kublai
Galileo Galilei proved Khan for nearly two decades
that the earth revolved before returning home. He is
around the sun, over- seen here arriving at Hormuz
turning Church doctrine. in the Persian Gulf from India.
He was convicted of
heresy in 1633. Here he
shows the rings of Saturn
Le Marche
to Venetian senators.
Umbria
Winner of the Nobel Prize
for Physics in 1938, Enrico
Fermi directed the first
controlled nuclear chain
reaction. He built the world’s
first nuclear reactor for
Rome and Abruzzo, Molise producing power at the
University of Chicago.
Lazio and Puglia

Naples and
Campania
Pliny the Elder wrote
Basilicata his catalogue of human
and know ledge, Natural
Calabria History, in AD 77. He died
when Vesuvius erupted
two years later, but his
book retained its
authority for 1,500 years.
Spectacles were invented
in Italy in the 13th century.
They are first recorded in Venice,
still an important centre for
glasswork today.




Sicily
The mathematician Archimedes was
born in c. 287 BC in Syracuse, Sicily,
then a Greek colony. Legend has it that
he discovered the principle of specific
gravity while in the bath.




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INTRODUCING IT AL Y  47

THE HISTORY

OF ITALY



The concept of Italy as a geographic entity in contrast, saw a growth of independent
goes back to the time of the Etruscans, but city states, the most powerful being Venice,
Italy’s history is one of discord and division. fabu lously wealthy through trade with the
Prior to the 19th century, the only time East. Other cities, such as Genoa, Florence,
the peninsula was united was under the Milan, Pisa and Siena, also had their days
Romans, who by the 2nd century BC had of glory. Northern Italy became the most
subdued the other Italian tribes. Rome prosperous and cultured region in
became the capital of a huge empire, western Europe and it was the artists
introducing its language, laws and calendar and scholars of 15th-century Florence
to most of Europe before succumbing to who inspired the Renaissance. Small,
Germanic invaders in the 5th century AD. fragmented states, however, could not
Another important legacy of the Roman compete with great powers. In the
empire was Christianity and the position 16th century Italy’s petty kingdoms fell prey
of the pope as head of the Catholic Church. to a foreign invader, this time Spain, and
The medieval papacy summoned the Franks the north subsequently came under the
to drive out the Lombards and, in AD 800, control of Austria.
crowned the Frankish king Charlemagne One small kingdom that remained
Holy Roman Emperor. Unfortunately, what independent was Piedmont, but during
seemed to be the dawn of a new age a war between Austria and France it fell
turned out to be anything but. For five to Napoleon in 1796. In the 19th century,
centuries, popes and emperors fought to however, it was Piedmont that became
decide which of them should be in charge the focus for a movement towards a
of their nebulous empire. united Italy, a goal that was achieved in
Meanwhile, a succession of foreign 1870, thanks largely to the heroic military
invaders – Normans, Angevins and exploits of Garibaldi. In the 1920s, the Fascists
Aragonese – took advantage of the situation seized power and, in 1946, the monarchy
to conquer Sicily and the south. The north, was abandoned for today’s republic.























16th-century map of Italy, of the kind used by Venetian and Genoese sailors
Fall of the Rebel Angels, fresco by Giacinto Brandi on the ceiling of Sant’Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso, Rome



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48  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

The Age of the Etruscans

The Etruscans were Italy’s first major civilization. The frescoes,
jewellery and pottery found in their tombs are evidence of a
highly artistic, cultured people. Their origin is a mystery, as is
their language, but from the 9th century BC they spread
through central Italy, their chief rivals being the Greeks
in the south. Etruria was never a unified state, just a loose
confederation of cities. In the 6th century Etruscan kings Italy in 650 BC
ruled Rome, the city that would ultimately eclipse them. Etruscan kingdoms
Greek colonies
The double flute was a speciality
of the Etruscans. The instrument was
played at festivals and funerals alike.










Terracotta Winged Horses
This beautiful relief of yoked horses
(4th century BC) decorated the façade of
the Ara della Regina temple at Tarquinia.








Bronze Sheep’s Liver
The inscriptions served as a
guide for telling the future Tomb of
from animals’ entrails. the Leopards
Feasts and revelry are
common themes in the
Terracotta Cremation Urn frescoes that decorate
The lid of the urn shows Etruscan tombs. These
the deceased holding a writing musicians are from a
tablet. The Etruscans introduced tomb fresco (c.500 BC)
the alphabet to Italy. at Tarquinia (see p470).

c.700 BC Growth of
9th century BC cities in Etruria; earliest 616 BC Etruscans
Pre-urban communities Etruscan inscriptions become rulers of Rome
established along 753 BC Legendary date of under Tarquino the Older
river valleys in Etruria foundation of Rome by Romulus
900 BC 800 BC 700 BC
c.900 BC First traces of Iron
Age in Italy; Villanovan period 715–673 BC Reign of the
wise Numa Pompilius,
c.800 BC Greeks settle in second king of Rome Etruscan gold
Sicily and south of Italy earrings





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