(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  599

Arlù €€ The gem of Testaccio, this
Regional Italian Map 1 C3 shabby-chic bistro in a former DK Choice
Borgo Pio 135, 00193 industrial butchery offers great La Pergola €€€
Tel 06 686 89 36 Closed Sun lunch; meat dishes and a tempting Fine dining
1 Jan; 2 wks Aug; 25 & 26 Dec Sunday brunch. Via Alberto Cadlolo 101, 00136
The most authentic restaurant in Tel 06 350 91 Closed Sun, Mon
the area. A husband-and-wife team Oasi della Birra € Rome’s finest restaurant, La
serves up delectable cuisine. Great Birreria Map 6 D3 Pergola is also the only one to
choice of drinks and desserts. Piazza Testaccio 39, 00153 earn the coveted three Michelin
Tel 06 574 61 22 Closed 1 wk Aug; stars. Chef Heinz Beck dazzles
Isole di Sicilia €€ 24 & 25 Dec with exquisite Mediterranean
Regional Italian Map 5 B1 This trendy bar offering Belgian creations. Perched atop Monte
Via Garibaldi 68, 00153 craft beers and platters starts Mario hill, it offers great views of
Tel 06 58 33 42 12 Closed Mon–Fri serving in the early after noon. St Peter’s Basilica. There is also
lunch an award-winning wine cellar.
The elaborate dishes here are Checchino dal 1887 €€
inspired by the cuisine of the tiny Regional Italian Map 6 D4
islands around Sicily. The antipasto, Via di Monte Testaccio 30, 00153
in particular, is exceptional. Tel 06 574 38 16 Closed Sun,
Mon; Aug Lazio
DK Choice Lovingly prepared hearty Roman BRACCIANO: Quattro
dishes, including artichoke
Osteria La Gensola €€ specialities, make this restaurant Castagni €
Roman and Sicilian Map 6 D1 a local favourite. Regional Italian
Piazza della Gensola 15, 00153 Via Olmata Tre Cancelli 7, 00062
Tel 06 581 63 12 Further Afield Tel 06 99 84 91 55 Closed Tue
An intimate, family-run space This eatery specializes in wild
specializing in raw fish dishes La Gatta Mangiona € game and meat dishes, plus fried
and wonderful pastas, such as Pizzeria vegetables, all served in a rustic
the tagliolini with calamari. Via Federico Ozanam 30, Monteverde setting with exposed stonework.
Nuovo, 00152
Tel 06 534 67 02 Closed 1 Jan; CASTELLI ROMANI FRASCATI:
Spirito Divino €€ 10–25 Aug; 24–26 & 31 Dec Pezzafina €
Modern Italian Map 6 D1 This popular place dishes up Modern Italian
Via dei Genovesi 31, 00153 pizzas with creative toppings, Vicolo Manara 2, 00044
Tel 06 589 66 89 Closed Sun plus appetizers like fried cod Tel 335 657 23 30 Closed lunch
Fine dishes served in a converted fish and fried courgette flowers. daily, Sun
medieval synagogue; take a peek This chic restaurant in a former
in the 2,000-year-old wine cellar. DK Choice wine cellar offers daring
ingredient combinations, whilst
Taverna Trilussa €€ Mó Mó Republic € retaining the traditional flavours.
Regional Italian Map 2 E5 Pizzeria
Via del Politeama 23, 00153 Piazza Forlanini 10, Monteverde CERVETERI: Trattoria Zi Maria €
Tel 06 581 89 18 Closed lunch; Sun; Nuovo, 00151 Regional Italian
3 days mid-Aug; 24, 25 & 31 Dec Tel 06 537 30 87 Via Sasso Manziana 2, 00050
Locals flock here for sublime pasta A 19th-century mansion is the Tel 06 99 07 90 29 Closed Tue
dishes and decadent desserts. setting for this trendy pizzeria. Specialities here include venison
Huge chandeliers add to the with wild berries and risotto with
Antica Pesa €€€ ambience. In summer, start with strawberries and stinging nettles.
Fine dining Map 5 B1 an aperitivo on the lawn. Pasta,
Via Garibaldi 18, 00153 meat and fish are also available.
Tel 06 580 92 36 Closed Sun; 1 Jan
Enjoy exquisite cuisine –
including a delicious millefoglie Osteria Flaminio €
cake – in a beautifully decorated Modern Italian
restaurant covered with murals. Via Flaminia 297, 00196
Tel 06 323 69 00
Settembrini €€€ Trek north of the centre to try
Modern Italian the innovative Italian cuisine
Via Luigi Settembrini 21, 00195 on offer here. The ambience
Tel 06 323 26 17 Closed Sun, Sat is modern and pleasant, and
lunch; 2 wks Aug the wine list spans the entire
Creative Italian cuisine that is peninsula, from the Alps to Sicily.
as beautiful as it is tasty. Try the
raw fish platter or the lobster. Osteria Scaloni €€
Traditional Roman
Aventine and Lateran Via Carlo Mirabello 8, 00195
Tel 06 372 1593
Angelina a Testaccio € Simple, local dishes are given a
Regional Italian Map 6 D3 new lease of life with unexpected
Via Galvani 24, 00153 ingredients and creative touches.
Tel 06 57 28 38 40 Closed Sat & The house speciality is fish, and Exterior of the friendly Checchino dal 1887,
Sun lunch the wine list is excellent. known for its filling Roman dishes
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9
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600  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

GAETA: Narì € The gastronomic creations at this Great views of the coastline are
Seafood “cooking workshop” (as the owners matched by the delicious food.
Via Duomo 15, 04024 call it) are paired with great wine.
Tel 0771 46 30 94 Closed Mon AMALFI: La Caravella €€€
Excellent fish and pasta dishes TIVOLI: La Sibilla €€ Fine dining
in the medieval centre of Gaeta. Regional Italian Via Matteo Camera 12, 84011
Favourites include anchovy Via della Sibilla 42, 00019 Tel 089 87 10 29 Closed Tue; Jan, Nov
balls, fish soup and roasted king Tel 0774 33 52 81 Closed Mon The Michelin-starred chef here
prawns. Excellent value, too. Fine views of the Roman ruins uses local flavours to exalt the
provide a great setting to indulge regional cuisine.
OSTIA: La Bussola €€ in high-quality regional cuisine.
Seafood BENEVENTO: Pascalucci €€
Lungomare A. Vespucci 72, 00122 DK Choice Regional Italian
Tel 06 56 47 08 67 Closed Mon Via Appia 1, 82010
Inspired by the recipes of the VITERBO: Il Labirinto € Tel 0824 77 84 00 Closed winter
owners’ great aunt. Try the Pizzeria Simple recipes prepared with
gnocchi with octopus and the Via di San Lorenzo 46, 00100 fresh local ingredients.
fish stew, or stop by for an aperitif Tel 0761 30 70 26 Closed Mon
of oysters and white wine. Enjoy a variety of traditional CAPRI: Da Gelsomina €€
bruschette, pizza, pasta and main Regional Italian
SERMONETA: Il Giardino del courses. The outdoor seating Via Migliara 72, 80071
Simposio €€ area is next to a quaint fountain Tel 081 837 14 99 Closed Tue;
Modern Italian and a medieval church. Jan–Feb
Via della Conduttura 1, 04010 Much of the produce is grown
Tel 339 284 69 05 Closed Mon & Tue; on site at this delightful restaurant.
Jan & Feb: Sat & Sun VITERBO: Ristorantino
Innovative dishes such as pasta La Torre € CAPRI: Da Paolino €€
with fresh ricotta and wild fennel Fine dining Regional Italian
served amid the trees of a Via della Torre 5, 01100 Via Palazzo a Mare 11, 80073
picturesque garden. Tel 0761 22 64 67 Closed Mon Tel 081 837 61 02 Closed Oct–Apr
lunch; Sun; 3 wks Aug Rustic country restaurant with
SPERLONGA: Gli Archi €€ The chef and sommelier create rich regional cuisine.
Traditional Italian an unforgettable dining
Via Ottaviano 17, 04029 experience at this vibrant spot. CAPRI: L’Olivo €€€
Tel 0771 54 83 00 Closed Wed; Jan Fine dining
Simple traditional cuisine in the VITERBO: Villa San Michele €€ Via Capodimonte 14, 80071
heart of this seaside village. For Fine dining Tel 081 978 01 11 Closed mid-Oct–
dessert, try the delicious mousse Via de la Quercia, Vitorchiano, 01030 mid-Apr
made with buffalo ricotta cheese. Tel 0761 37 34 41 Closed Mon, Tue Uses saffron, bergamot, fava
Outdoor seating in warm weather. The menu at this elegant country beans and asparagus to make
villa includes smoked baby gorgeous flavour combinations.
TARQUINIA: Lupo di Mare € calamari au gratin, and risotto
Italian with squash and anchovies. CAPRI: Il Riccio €€€
Strada Porto Clementino 21, 01016 Seafood
Tel 347 545 81 84 Via Grotta Azzurra 11, 80071
This poolside restaurant specializes Tel 081 837 13 80 Closed Nov–Mar
in traditional fish cuisine. Try the Naples and Pleasant atmosphere in which to
antipasto Lupo di Mare, consisting Campania enjoy exceptional seafood dishes.
of mussels, couscous, squid,
oysters, calamari and shrimp. CASERTA: Antica Locanda €
AMALFI: Regional Italian
TIVOLI: Avec 55 €€ Da Ciccio Cielo Mare Terra €€ Piazza della Seta 7, 81100
Modern Italian Regional Italian Tel 0823 30 54 44 Closed Sun dinner,
Via Domenico Giuliani 55, 00019 Via Nazionale per Sorrento, 84011 Mon; Aug; 24 & 31 Dec
Tel 0774 31 72 43 Closed Mon Tel 089 83 12 65 Closed Tue; Jan, Nov Simple, characterful osteria with
rustic details. Southern Italian
cooking and excellent risotto.
CASERTA: Leucio €
Seafood
Via Giardini Reali 86, 81100
Tel 0823 30 12 41 Closed Sun dinner,
Mon; 1 wk Aug
Exceptional prices at this simple
fish restaurant run by a father
and son. Also serves great pasta.
CASERTA: Le Colonne €€
Fine dining
Viale Giulio Douhet 7, 81100
Tel 0823 46 74 94 Closed Tue
Indulge in superbly reinterpreted
Romantic dining amid lemon trees at Da Paolino, Capri local cuisine in a luxurious setting.
Key to prices see p580

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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  601

ISCHIA AND PROCIDA: NAPLES: Sorbillo €
Il Mosaico €€€ Pizzeria
Fine dining Via dei Tribunali 32, 80138
Piazza Bagni, Casamicciola Terme, Tel 081 033 10 09 Closed Sun;
80074 1 wk Feb
Tel 081 99 47 22 Closed lunch; Wed; A comfortable setting, good
mid-Oct–Mar pizza and attentive service for
Rich Neapolitan cuisine inspires a great price.
this multitalented chef’s
innovative and exquisite menu. NAPLES: La Cantinella €€
The wine list is excellent and the Fine dining
desserts are divine. Via Cuma 42, 80132
Tel 081 764 86 84 Closed Sun dinner
A bamboo forest is re-created in
DK Choice this award-winning restaurant
ISCHIA AND PROCIDA: with an imaginative chef.
Umberto a Mare €€€
Fine dining NAPLES: Kukai Nibu €€
Sunny patio of the Neapolitan gem, Via del Soccorso 2, Forio, 80075 Japanese
Il Comandante Tel 081 99 71 71 Closed Nov–Mar Via Carlo de Cesare 52, 80132
Time seems to stand still as you Tel 081 41 19 05
ISCHIA AND PROCIDA: take a seat on the tiny terrace Generous portions of sushi and
Lo Scoglio € that juts out over the sea in the sashimi; a glass kitchen allows
Seafood shadow of the evocative Santa diners a great view of the action.
Via Cava Ruffano 58, Sant’Angelo, Maria del Sorrorso church. The
80077 tasting menus feature gastro- NAPLES: La Scialuppa €€
Tel 081 999529 nomic delights from all over Seafood
Stunningly located on a rock the Mediterranean. The wine Piazzetta Marinari 5, 80132
jutting over the sea, this simple selection is outstanding, and Tel 081 764 53 33 Closed Mon; Jan
restaurant serves quality fish. the staff attend to every need. Right on the gulf, this traditional
There is also a good selection restaurant serves fresh fish, as
of wine. well as pasta and pizza.
NAPLES: Di Matteo €
ISCHIA AND PROCIDA: Pizzeria NAPLES: Il Comandante €€€
La Stadera € Via dei Tribunali 94, 80138 Fine dining
Enoteca Tel 081 455 262 Closed Sun Via Cristoforo Colombo, 80133
Via C. Maddalena 15, Sant’Angelo, A Naples institution serving Tel 081 017 50 01 Closed Tue
80070 classic chewy pizza and tasty The chef at this Michelin-starred
Tel 081 99 98 93 fritti (fried food). Popular with restaurant creates exquisite dishes
Narrow alleys lead to this enoteca, locals and celebrities. from a few basic ingredients.
where the owners delight in
pairing delicious food with DK Choice NAPLES: Palazzo Petrucci €€€
unusual wines and liqueurs. Modern Italian
NAPLES: Da Michele € Via Posillipo 16, 80123
ISCHIA AND PROCIDA: Pizzeria Tel 081 575 75 38 Closed Sun dinner,
La Tinaia € Via Cesare Sersale 1, 80139 Mon lunch; 2–4 Aug; 25 Dec
Pizzeria Tel 081 553 92 04 Closed Sun This Michelin-starred restaurant in
Via Matteo Verde 39, Forio, 80075 A trip to Naples wouldn’t be a splendid villa on the sea serves
Tel 081 99 84 48 Closed 24 Dec complete without a Margherita modern fare from local produce.
Fantastic thick-crusted pizza, as here, probably the most famous
well as pasta and seafood. Basic pizzeria in the world. Come POSITANO: Rada Restaurant €
but friendly service. early, or be prepared to wait Regional
outside. Only Margherita and Via Grotte dell‘Incanto 51, 84017
ISCHIA AND PROCIDA: Marinara pizzas are served. Tel 089 87 58 74 Closed Oct–Apr
Alberto €€ Wine bar with panoramic sea
Modern Italian views. The wine cellar is carved
Via Cristoforo Colombo 8, Ischia, NAPLES: La Notizia € right into the hillside rock.
80077 Pizzeria
Tel 081 98 12 59 Closed Nov–Mar Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio 53, POSITANO: Chez Black €€
Sample creatively reinter preted 80126 Seafood
traditional Italian sea food Tel 081 714 21 55 Closed Mon; Aug; Via del Brigantino, 84017
specialities at this lovely beach- 25 Dec Tel 089 87 50 36 Closed mid-Jan–
front restaurant. Tiny pizzas with intense flavours mid-Feb
at this popular spot, considered Idyllic beachfront location. Serves
ISCHIA AND PROCIDA: one of the world’s best pizzerias. traditional fish recipes.
Gorgonia €€
Seafood NAPLES: La Piazzetta € POSITANO: Zass €€
Via Marina di Corricella 50, Procida, Regional Italian Fine dining
80079 Via Nazario Sauro 21, 80132 Via Laurito 2, 84017
Tel 081 810 10 60 Tel 081 764 61 95 Tel 089 87 54 55
Opt for the catch of the day at Traditional local fare and pizzas Mouthwateringly delicious
this delightful restaurant set high at this quaint restaurant designed examples of regional cuisine.
above a picturesque bay. to look like a small-town piazza. Desserts to die for.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9
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602  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SALERNO: Addor I Pizza €
Pizzeria
Piazza San Francesco d’Assisi, 84122
Tel 089 24 18 76 Closed Sun lunch
Courteous service in this tiny
pizzeria that also serves pasta.
SALERNO: Osteria Dedicato
a mio Padre €€
Seafood
Vicolo Giudaica 8, 84100
Tel 089 23 15 55 Closed Sun
Numerous varieties of fresh fish,
served up in a cosy setting in the
heart of the historic centre.
Homely setting for regional cuisine at Il Cortiletto, Lucera
SALERNO: Il Timone €€
Seafood BARI: L’AQUILA: L’Unico Posto €
Via Generale Clarke 29/35, 84131 Osteria delle Travi “Il Buco” € Mediterranean
Tel 089 33 51 11 Closed Mon; Regional Italian Viale Croce Rossa 30/a, 67100
15–31 Aug Largo Ignazio Chiurlia 12, 70122 Tel 347 483 13 20
Friendly, bright seafood restaurant Tel 339 157 88 48 Closed Sun Kebabs, spit-roasted meat and
with fast, courteous service. dinner, Mon ribs – a meat lover’s heaven.
Authentic home-style cooking in
SORRENTO: Zi’ntonio € the old Pugliese-style osteria. L’AQUILA: Elodia €€
Regional Italian Fine dining
Via Luigi De Maio 11, 80067 BARI: Biancofore €€ Via Valle Perchiana 22, 67100
Tel 081 878 16 23 Modern Italian Tel 0862 60 68 30 Closed Mon, Tue
Local dishes served in a room Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 13, 70122 Gourmet interpretations of great
with exposed tufa blocks and Tel 080 523 54 46 Closed Mon local recipes; delicious desserts.
wood-beamed ceilings. People come to one of the best Booking essential.
eateries in Bari for modern takes
SORRENTO: La Basilica €€ on tradi tional dishes, coupled LECCE: Osteria degli Spiriti €
Regional Italian with an extensive wine list. Regional Italian
Via Sant’Antonino 28, 80067 Via Cesare Battisti 4, 73100
Tel 081 877 47 90 GARGANO PENINSULA: Tel 0832 24 62 74
It’s possible to dine until 1am at Medioevo € Local cuisine served in a high-
this restaurant. Fish, meat and Regional Italian ceilinged trattoria that was once
vegetarian options in classic Via Castello 21, 71037 a warehouse.
regional style. Tel 0884 56 53 56 Closed Nov:
dinner; Dec–Feb: Mon LUCERA: Il Cortiletto €
SORRENTO: Il Buco €€ This simple osteria uses the best Regional Italian
Modern Italian seasonal produce available. Meat Via Famiglia de Nicastri 26, 71036
II Rampa Marina Piccola 5, 80067 and soup are specialities. Tel 0881 54 25 54 Closed Sun dinner
Tel 081 878 23 54 Closed Wed; Jan Regional favourites with original
Elegant yet informal restaurant GARGANO PENINSULA: touches. The short weekly menu
housed in the cellar of an ancient Al Dragone €€ is described by the staff.
monastery. A perfect blend of Regional Italian
tradition and more daring cuisine. Via Duomo 8, 71019 DK Choice
Tel 0884 70 12 12 Closed Apr–Nov:
Tue; Dec–Mar LUCERA: Le Delizie di Bacco €
Dining in this restaurant built into Gourmet pizzeria
Abruzzo, Molise and a natural cave is an experience in Via Luigi Zuppetta 27, 71036
Puglia itself. Delicious regional dishes Tel 329 029 43 55 Closed Tue
and a good wine list. A pizzeria like no other, this tiny
ALBEROBELLO: Trullo d’Oro € place only serves pizza al taglio
Regional Italian GARGANO PENINSULA: (by the slice). But they are made
Via Felice Cavallotti 27, 70011 Porta di Basso €€ with the best ingredients in the
Tel 080 432 18 20 Closed Mon Seafood most traditional way, even if
Local cuisine in the characterful Via Cristoforo Colombo 38, 71010 owner Luigi experiments with
setting of an authentic trullo. Tel 0884 35 51 67 taste combinations. The inside is
Great antipasto spread. Creative reinterpretations of decorated like an artist’s studio,
Pugliese fish recipes. Located and service is kind and helpful.
ALBEROBELLO: Il Poeta on a cliff above the sea.
Contadino €€
Fine dining ISOLE TREMITI: La Nassa € OSTUNI: Osteria Piazzetta
Via Indipendenza 21, 70011 Seafood Cattedrale €
Tel 080 432 19 17 Closed Mon (exc Via Aldo Moro 24, 71040 Modern Italian
Aug); Jan (except for group bookings) Tel 0882 46 33 45 Closed Easter; Largo Arcidiacono T. Trinchera 7,
Awarded a Michelin star for its Apr–Oct 72017
delectable regional cuisine and Nestled in a lush garden, this Tel 0831 33 50 26 Closed Tue
heavenly desserts. The location restaurant offers fresh fish served This elegant restaurant serves local
is stunning. in the simple but rich tradition. cuisine with a modern touch.
Key to prices see p580
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  603

OSTUNI: MARATEA: Zà Mariuccia €€ MELFI: Novecento €
Osteria del Tempo Perso €€ Seafood Regional Italian
Modern Italian Via Grotte 2, 85040 Contrada Incoronata, 85025
Via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale 47, Tel 0973 87 61 63 Closed Mon; Tel 0972 23 74 70
72017 mid-Oct–Mar Authentic local cuisine served in
Tel 0831 30 48 19 Closed Mon; Book ahead to secure one of the a welcoming restaurant. Worth
15–20 Jan few terrace tables with splendid the trek outside town.
Set in an antique mill, the dishes sea views. Top-notch local seafood
are reinventions of classic recipes. with an excellent wine list. MELFI: La Grotta Azzurra €€
Regional Italian
OSTUNI: Porta Nova €€ MARATEA: Taverna Rovita €€€ Via Carmine 13, 85025
Seafood Regional Italian Tel 0972 23 81 34
Via Gaspare Petrarolo 38, 72017 Via Rovita 12, 85046 Bring a big appetite to this
Tel 0831 33 89 83 Tel 0973 87 65 88 excellent restaurant with hearty
A fine fish restaurant with lovely Serves tempting meat and fish Lucano specialities. Heavenly
views from its large terrace. dishes and home-made pasta desserts and a good wine list.
with seasonal ingredients.
OTRANTO: Peccato di Vino €€€ REGGIO DI CALABRIA:
Modern Italian MATERA: Alle Fornaci € L’Angolo dell’Antica Villa €
Via Rondachi 7, 73028 Seafood Seafood
Tel 0836 80 14 88 Closed Tue Piazza Cesare Firrao 5/7, 75100 Via Zaleuco 7, 89125
One of the finest restaurants in Tel 0835 33 50 37 Closed Mon Tel 0965 209 55 Closed Sun;
town, serving creative Pugliese Fresh fish from the Ionian and first wk Jan
cuisine in a jovial atmosphere. Tyrrhenian seas is brought in Sicilian cuisine, based mostly on
daily for the no-fuss dishes. fish, is on offer in this welcoming
SULMONA: Pensavo Peggio € restaurant with a good Calabrian
Regional Italian MATERA: Don Matteo €€ wine list.
Via Barbato 1, 67039 Modern Italian
Tel 347 995 43 89 Via San Potito 12, 75100 REGGIO DI CALABRIA:
Simple but wholesome food in Tel 0835 34 41 45 Closed lunch Bistrot 15 €€
a rustic setting. Don’t miss the Dine inside a sassi (characteristic Bistro
maltagliati alla crema di pistacchi stone dwelling). A modern take Via Nazionale Pellaro 15, 89134
(pasta with pistachio cream). on traditional local recipes. Tel 0965 35 03 41 Closed May–Sep;
Dec–Feb: Mon
TARANTO: Al Canale €€ DK Choice Innovative and artistic sea food
Seafood served in a modern setting.
Scesa Vasto, 74100 MELFI: La Villa € Worth the small journey out
Tel 099 476 42 01 Closed Sun Regional Italian of the centre.
dinner; 1–15 Nov Contrada Cavallerizza, 85025
Delicious fish dishes are served at Tel 0972 23 60 08 Closed Sun ROSSANO: Bella Napoli €
this cheeful restaurant by the sea. dinner, Fri; 2 wks mid-Jul Pizzeria
Set in the heart of the country- Via Capri 5, 87067
TARANTO: side, this rustic restaurant mills its Tel 0983 51 01 53
Trattoria al Gatto Rosso €€ own flour and grows its own Authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas
Regional Italian grapes. Every ingredient used are served in generous portions.
Via Cavour 2, 74123 is local, and the traditional Pasta and meat dishes are also on
Tel 099 452 98 75 Closed Sun recipes are executed with the menu.
lunch, Mon attention to detail. The family
Innovative contemporary cuisine who run the estate treat guests ROSSANO: Trattoria Amici di
based on local recipes. like family members. Bacco €
Regional Italian
TRANI: Torrente Antico €€€ Via Carducci 2, 87067
Fine dining Tel 0983 50 01 14
Via Edoardo Fusco 3, 70059 Simple and reliable trattoria that
Tel 0883 48 79 11 Closed Mon serves typical Rossanese dishes.
Light and modern versions of Ask for any fresh fish on offer.
Puglia’s traditional recipes at the
finest restaurant in the area. TROPEA: La Lamia €
Modern Italian
Largo Vulcano, 89861
Tel 0963 612 74
Basilicata and Both meat and fish dishes
Calabria feature heavily on the menu at
this characteristic and popular
neighbourhood osteria.
MARATEA:
Il Giardino di Epicuro € TROPEA: Al Pinturicchio €
Regional Italian Pizzeria
Contrada Massa Piano, 85046 Via Dardano, 89861
Tel 0973 87 01 30 Closed Jan, Tel 0963 60 34 52
Feb, Nov Come early to this popular
The owner’s mother creates The warmly lit entrance to seafood pizzeria, where tables spill out
heavenly traditional meals. restaurant Porta Nova in Ostuni onto the narrow street.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9
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604  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

TROPEA: Pimm’s €€ The chef here uses traditional PALERMO:
Seafood Sicilian ingredients in unique ways, Antico Caffè Spinnato €
Largo Migliarese 10, 89861 such as fish with Modica chocolate. Enoteca
Tel 0963 66 61 05 Closed Mon Via Principe di Belmonte 111, 90139
Elegant and quiet restaurant in CEFALÙ: La Brace € Tel 091 749 51 04 Closed Christmas
the heart of town. Bistro Come for the wines, liqueurs and
Via 25 Novembre 10, 90015 espresso, but stay for the cassata
VENOSA: Locanda Accademia Tel 0921 42 35 70 Closed Mon, Tue; (traditional Sicilian dessert),
dei Piacevoli €€ 15 Dec–15 Jan cannoli (fried pastry with a
Modern Italian Hints of the Orient mingle with creamy filling) and gelato.
Via Discesa Capovalle 1, 85029 local flavours at this bistro hidden
Tel 0972 360 82 Closed Mon; away in the historic centre. PALERMO: Bye Bye Blues €€
first 2 wks Nov Fine dining
Small gourmet restaurant set in a ENNA: Ariston € Via del Garofalo 23, 90149
tiny stone house. Regional Italian Tel 091 684 14 15 Closed Mon;
Piazza Napoleone Colajanni 6, 94100 2 wks Jan
Tel 0935 260 38 Fantastic prices for a Michelin-
Fresh local ingredients from land starred restaurant. Diners can
Sicily and sea are served by enthusiastic watch their dishes being
staff at this friendly spot. prepared in the kitchen.
AGRIGENTO: Kokalos €€
Regional Italian ERICE: Monte San Giuliano € PALERMO: Carizzi d’Amuri €€
Via Alfredo Capitano 3 Regional Italian Modern Italian
Tel 0922 60 64 27 Vicolo San Rocco 7, 91016 Via Lungarni 21, 90133
Traditional Sicilian cuisine using Tel 0923 86 95 95 Closed Mon; Tel 091 61 61 388 Closed lunch; Tue
local ingredients such as oranges, 15 Nov The relaxed, modern setting is
almonds and sun-dried tomatoes. The remarkable terrace-garden perfect for a romantic meal. The
here is an ideal setting to enjoy food is traditional Sicilian with a
AGRIGENTO: some authentic local cuisine. contemporary twist.
Trattoria dei Templi €€
Seafood ERICE: Osteria di Venere €€ PALERMO: Sapori Perduti €€
Via Panoramica Valle dei Templi 15, Regional Italian Modern Italian
92100 Via Roma 6, 91016 Via Principe di Belmonte 32, 90139
Tel 0922 40 31 10 Tel 0923 86 93 62 Tel 091 32 73 87 Closed Mon; Aug
This inviting restaurant overlook- Sample diverse Mediterranean Modern design goes hand-in-
ing the temples offers expertly cuisine including home-made hand with expertly prepared
prepared seafood specialities. pasta and grilled seafood. modern Italian cuisine.
CATANIA: La Siciliana € MARSALA: Garibaldi € PALERMO: Lo Scudiero €€
Regional Italian Regional Italian Seafood
Viale Marco Polo 52, 95126 Piazza dell’Addolorata 1, 91025 Via Filippo Turati 7, 90139
Tel 095 37 64 00 Closed Sun dinner, Tel 0923 95 30 06 Closed Sat lunch, Tel 091 58 16 28 Closed Sun;
Mon Sun dinner 2 wks Aug
Classic Sicilian recipes, including A dizzying selection of regional The impeccable and attentive
dishes specific to the town. One favourites, and fish cooked any service is almost as refreshing as
of Catania’s best restaurants. way you please. the delectable fish.
CATANIA: Il Cuciniere €€ MESSINA: La Durlindana € SIRACUSA: Enoteca Solaria €
Modern Italian Regional Italian Enoteca
Via Finocchiaro Aprile 110, 95129 Via Nicola Fabrizi 143, 98123 Via Roma 86, 96100
Tel 095 747 07 02 Closed Sun Tel 090 641 31 56 Tel 0931 46 30 07
This modern restaurant with an The oldest wine bar in the city,
open kitchen offers regional with labels from Italy and France.
dishes and wines.
SIRACUSA: Oinos €€
MESSINA: Piero €€ Modern Italian
Regional Italian Via della Giudecca 69/75, 96100
Via Ghibellina 119, 98123 Tel 0931 46 49 00
Tel 090 640 93 54 Closed Aug Intimate and informal setting
This restaurant has been serving for a variety of modern dishes
large plates of fish, big salads based on recipes from across
and hearty meat dishes since its Italy. There is also a good range
opening in 1962. of beverages to accompany meals.
MONREALE: SIRACUSA: Porta Marina €€
Taverna del Pavone € Regional Italian
Regional Italian Via dei Candelai 35, 96100
Vicolo Pensato 18, 90046 Tel 0931 225 53 Closed Mon;
Tel 091 640 62 09 Closed 2 wks Jan, 2 wks Feb
2 wks Jul A lovely restaurant set in a
Sample authentic, no-frills Sicilian crumbling early Renaissance
Erice’s Monte San Giuliano restaurant, specialities served in a cosy and palazzo. It offers good value for
serving local dishes friendly setting. the quality of food it serves.
Key to prices see p580


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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  605


DK Choice
TAORMINA: Al Duomo €€
Seafood
Vico Ebrei (Piazza Duomo), 98039
Tel 0942 62 56 56
The picturesque location for
this restaurant is a terrace in
Taormina’s most beautiful
piazza, with the backdrop
of a 12th-century cathedral.
Classic and modern fish dishes
are whipped up by the chefs
with enthusiasm. The kitchen
is open well past midnight.
TAORMINA: Principe Cerami €€€
Fine dining
Piazza San Domenico 5, 98039 Buzzing atmosphere at Hivaoa, Costa Smeralda
Tel 0942 61 31 11 Closed lunch, Mon
Uber-refined Sicilian fare is served Sardinian classics are re-created COSTA SMERALDA:
on a heavenly terrace overlooking with a contemporary twist. Da Giovannino €€€
crystal waters. Book early. Fine dining
CALA GONONE: Il Pescatore €€ Piazza Quadra 10, Porto Rotondo,
TRAPANI: Taverna Paradiso €€ Seafood 07026
Seafood Lungomare Acqua Dolce 1, 08022 Tel 0789 352 80 Closed winter
Lungomare Dante Alighieri 22, 91100 Tel 0784 931 74 High-profile restaurant with a
Tel 0923 223 03 A seaside spot serving classic pretty garden. Excellent
Ask the friendly staff for their Sardinian fish dishes. Mediterranean cuisine.
recommendations at this lovely
eatery with super-fresh fish. COSTA SMERALDA: COSTA SMERALDA:
Corbezzolo €€ Spinnaker €€€
Seafood Seafood
Piazzetta della Fontana, Baia Res. Alba Ruja, Porto Cervo, 07020
Sardinia Sardinia, 07021 Tel 0789 912 26 Closed winter
Tel 0789 998 93 Closed Dec–May One of the Emerald Coast’s best-
ALGHERO: Quintilio €€ Classic fish dishes served on a known restaurants. Excellent
Modern Italian terrace with stunning sea views. seafood and impeccable staff.
Via El Trò 44, Grotte di Costa, 07041
Tel 330 258 608 COSTA SMERALDA: Hivaoa €€ NUORO: Il Rifugio €€
Enjoy a meal or a cocktail while Pizzeria Regional Italian
watching the sun set over the sea. Via della Marina, Porto Cervo, 07021 Via Antonio Mereu 28, 08100
Tel 0789 914 51 Tel 0784 23 23 55 Closed winter
ALGHERO: Al Tuguri €€ Dine on a breezy terrace. Pizza, An ample variety of classic
Seafood pasta and excellent seafood. Sardinian dishes served in a pretty,
Via Maiorca 113, 07041 romantic setting. Excellent pizza.
Tel 079 97 67 72 Closed Sun; DK Choice
mid-Dec–Mar ORISTANO: Craf da Banana €€
Just a few tables are available in COSTA SMERALDA: Regional Italian
this cosy seafood restaurant. Pedristellas €€ Via de Castro S. A. 34, 09170
Regional Italian Tel 0783 42 01 82 Closed winter
BOSA: Via Monte Ladu, Porto Rotondo, Wild game is the house speciality
Mannu da Giancarlo e Rita €€ 07026 at this friendly basement eatery.
Seafood Tel 377 236 92 01 Closed winter
Viale Alghero 14, 08013 Literally “rocks and stars” in the SANT’ANTIOCO:
Tel 0785 37 53 06 Closed winter Sardinian dialect, this restaurant Moderno da Achille €€
A modern restaurant where is set in a rock garden dotted Regional Italian
lobster dominates the menu. with centuries-old pine trees. Via Nazionale 82, 09017
The tables, lighting and mean- Tel 0781 831 05 Closed winter
CAGLIARI: dering paths complement the Tasty Sardinian cuisine expertly
La Stella Marina di Montecristo € natural setting. It offers traditional prepared by a talented chef who
Seafood Sardinian dishes, perfectly cooked. makes each dish his own. A very
Via Sardegna 140, 09124 elegant setting.
Tel 347 578 89 64 Closed Sun
A simple osteria offering cordial COSTA SMERALDA: SASSARI: Il Vecchio Mulino €€
service. Wild game on Thursdays. Stella di Gallura €€ Regioanl Italian
Regional Italian Via Frigaglia 5, 07100
CAGLIARI: Dal Corsaro €€ Loc. Monte Ladu, Porto Rotondo, Tel 079 492 03 24 Closed Sun,
Modern Italian 07026 Mon lunch, Fri dinner
Viale Regina Margherita 28, 09124 Tel 0789 344 02 Closed winter The setting in an old mill is perfect
Tel 070 66 43 18 Closed Sun; Dine by the poolside and sample for the excellent regional dishes.
3 wks Jan delicious regional dishes. Great value and huge portions.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9
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606  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SHOPPING IN ITALY

Italy is known for its quality designer goods, for bargains, but there’s plenty to look at
ranging from chic clothing and sleek cars to even for those not planning to buy. If you
stylish household items. There is a strong come from outside the European Union,
tradition of craftsmanship, often from family- you may be able to claim back the 21 per
run businesses, and there are numerous cent IVA tax (VAT). Make sure you leave
markets selling regional specialities. Apart time at your departure airport to fulfil all
from the town markets, it is not a country administrative requirements.

products generally have fresher
and cheaper produce than the
shops. Bargaining is not usual
when buying food, but it is
worth asking for a discount
(sconto) for clothes.

Seasonal Produce
To make the most of Italian food,
try to buy and eat what is in
season. Grapes and mushrooms
are best in autumn, whereas
spring is the season for asparagus
Fresh vegetables on display at a Venetian market stall and strawberries. In winter,
vegetables such as Roman
head for the enoteca, vineria artichokes, cauliflower and
Opening Hours or vinaio, where you can broccoli are at their best, as are
Opening times for shops are sometimes taste the wine lemons from Amalfi and Sicilian
usually 9:30am–1pm and around before purchasing. blood oranges. Summer is the
3:30–8pm, Tuesday to Saturday time for plums, pears and
and Monday afternoons. cherries, as well as courgettes,
However, shopkeepers are Markets aubergines, tomatoes and melon.
increasingly using more flexible All towns have regional weekly
hours. There are few department markets. Large towns will have Clothes and Designer
stores, but most large towns will several small daily markets
have a Standa, Upim, Coin or followed by a weekly flea Shops
Rinascente. These stores are often market, usually on Sunday. In Italy is renowned worldwide for
open nonstop (orario continuato) this guide the main market days its fashion industry. Milan is the
from 9am to 8pm, Monday to are listed under each town. fashion capital and Via Monte
Saturday. Music and bookshops Traders set up at 5am and start Napoleone, in the city centre, is
sometimes stay open after 8pm to clear away at about 1:30pm. lined with designer boutiques.
and on Sundays. Food is sold by the etto (100 All large towns will have a
grams) and the chilo (kilo) (see selection of designer shops,
p617), or in numbers (two onions, usually situated near each other.
Food Shops etc). Food stalls selling seasonal Less expensive clothes are
Even though there are super­
markets throughout Italy, the
specialist shops, although more
expensive, are still the most
interesting way to shop. A forno
has the best bread and a
macellaio has the finest meat
(go to a norcineria for pork
products). Vegetables are
freshest from market stalls or
the fruttivendolo. You can buy
cakes at the pasticceria, milk at
the latteria, and pasta, ham,
cheese and general foods at the
often impressively stocked
alimentari. Here you can also
buy wine, but for a wider choice Souvenir shop in Ostuni, near Brindisi, Puglia




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available in markets and many
high-street shops, where the
styles tend to be more
conventional. Italy is also
famous for leather shoes and
bags, the prices of which tend
to be reasonable.
Sales (saldi) are held in
summer and winter. Second-
hand shops can be expensive,
but the quality and condition of
the clothes are usually very
good. Larger markets have stalls
piled high with used clothes. An elegant designer clothes boutique in Treviso
Rummage through and you will
often find bargains. country. Italian kitchenware is still practised in Italy and range
particularly striking, with its from delicate lacework and
stainless steel and copper pots, glassware in the Veneto to
pans and utensils. For the leatherwork, jewellery and
lowest prices, avoid the tourist marbled paper in Florence.
shops and, if possible, buy Italian ceramics include
directly from the manufacturer. elaborate Tuscan pottery, hand-
Less expensive items include painted dishes around Amalfi
the characteristic brown and De Simone’s stylized
espresso and cappuccino cups designer plates from Sicily.
sold in all markets.

Regional Specialities
Many of Italy’s regional
specialities are world famous:
Parma ham, Chianti wine, olive
oil and grappa. Regional sweets,
Colourful shop display of leather including the Sienese panforte
handbags in Florence and Sicilian marzipan, are also
well-known, as are cheeses such
as Gorgonzola from Lombardy
Jewellery and Antique and Parmesan from Emilia- Display of decorative glazed
Shops Romagna. Traditional crafts are pottery from Tuscany
Glitzy gold jewellery is very
popular in Italy and every
gioielleria (jewellery shop) will Size Chart
have a wide selection. For more For Australian sizes follow the British and American conversions.
unusual items, try the bigiotteria
or artisan shops (oreficeria). Women’s dresses, coats and skirts
Antique stores like Antichità and Italian 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
Antiquariato sell furniture and British 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
ornaments of varying quality American 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
and prices. You will rarely find Women’s shoes
bargains in Italy, except perhaps Italian 36 37 38 39 40 41
at the fiere dell’antiquariato British 3 4 5 6 7 8
(antique fairs), held throughout American 5 6 7 8 9 10
the year all over the country. Men’s suits
Italian 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 (size)
British 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 (inches)
Interior Design and American 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 (inches)
Household Wares Men’s shirts (collar size)
41
45 (cm)
44
39
42
43
Interior design is another Italian Italian 37 38 15 ⁄2 16 16 ⁄2 17 17 ⁄2 18 (inches)
1
1
15
British
1
14
sector where top names American 14 15 15 ⁄2 16 17 17 1 ⁄2 18 (inches)
1
demand extravagant prices, Men’s shoes 16 1 ⁄2
with many shops concentrating Italian 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46
on modern, high-tech styles. British 6 7 7 ⁄2 8 9 10 11 12
1
There are household shops in American 7 7 ⁄2 8 8 ⁄2 9 ⁄2 10 ⁄2 11 11 1 ⁄2
1
1
1
1
cities and towns throughout the
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608  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN ITALY

Italians exude strong national pride and acclaimed international film festivals and every
passion about all aspects of their cultural town boasts a teatro, an elaborate classical
heritage. One of Europe’s key centres of culture venue with mixed programmes incorporating
since Roman times, Italy was the cradle of the every aspect of classic and traditional culture.
Renaissance, and it is known today as the home Add to this the many street festivals and fairs,
of opera and a mixed bag of regional styles of often in celebration of food, wine and la dolce
folk music. The country holds one of the most vita, and you will never have a dull moment.

Practical Information venues provide easy access for
Most venues have booking people with restricted mobility.
facilities online or a booking line The situation improves a little in
to call. However, major events the summer, when many events
and most opera performances are held outside.
tend to sell out well in advance,
so it is wise to book through
specialist ticket companies such Opera and Classical Music
as Ticket One, which may still Italy has some of the world’s
have availability when the most beautiful and historic
venue itself has sold out. opera houses. Venice’s La
If you wish to find out what’s Fenice, destroyed by fire in
on in Italy during your stay, 1996, has been restored to its
check the Italian tourism former splendour, and Teatro
website (www.italia.it) or pick alla Scala (see p197) in Milan
up a copy of Dove, a monthly also underwent a major Poster advertising the Venice Film Festival
publication about culture, renovation. In addition to the
travel and gastronomy that original building, there is also Rock, Jazz and
also highlights the month’s an extra theatre, Teatro degli
events in Rome and Milan. Arcimboldi, allowing the Scala Contemporary Music
Il Corriere della Sera, Italy’s to host more performances. Large concerts tend to be held
oldest daily, contains sections Verona hosts a summer in classic theatres or in sports
on events and culture; its season of opera and classical stadiums. The Arena di Verona
Vivimilano website (www. music in the outdoor Arena di hosts big names in summer, as
corriere.it/vivimilano) is a mine Verona (see p147), while Rome’s does the Stadio Olimpico in
of information on events taking venues include the open­air Rome. In Milan, the Forum di
place in the fashion capital. Baths of Caracalla (see p441), Assago sports stadium is
Another website (www. the breathtaking Renzo Piano­ a popular venue. Tickets for
romaturismo.it) offers an designed auditorium Parco concerts are sometimes sold
excellent service for Rome. della Musica and the Teatro in record shops.
Tourist information offices dell’Opera. World­class jazz performers
(see p617) will also provide infor­ In May and June, Florence’s gather annually in Perugia for
mation on programmes, events Maggio Musicale (see p70) is the Umbria Jazz festival in July.
and venues, as will the Italian packed with opera, ballet and The website provides booking
State Tourist Board. Few Italian classical performances. details and information.
Theatre and Ballet
Italy has the highest concen­
tration of traditional theatres in
Europe, offering a mixture of
theatre, ballet and classical music
all under one roof. All theatres
also hold ballet performances,
mainly by international touring
troupes. The Scala’s ballet com­
pany has gained international
renown. Both tradition and
innovation can be seen at the
international festival of ballet
that takes place at Genoa’s
The opera festival in Verona attracts huge crowds to the Roman arena Teatro Carlo Felice in July.




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Cinema
One of the highlights of the
cinema year is the Venice Film
Festival (see p71), which takes
place from August to September.
The Rome International Festival
of Cinema (see p72) also draws
major film stars. A smaller
International Film Festival (see
p71) is held in Taormina, Sicily,
while Florence has the Festa dei
Popoli (see p72) in winter.
Regional Festivals, A thrilling moment in the Sienese Palio race held in Piazza del Campo
Music and Dance
Every region in Italy has its large cities’ popular squares,
Seasonal festivals are either own ancient music and dance, such as Piazza di Spagna or
religious, relating to patron but the best known is the Piazza Navona in Rome, Piazza
saints, or food-orientated. The tarantella, a lively dance and del Duomo in Milan or Piazza
best known is Carnevale (literally rhythmic song from Puglia (see San Marco in Venice, and you
“farewell to meat”) (see p73), p515). Legends trace the origins will see people of all ages
which celebrates the end of of the name to the tarantula parading around in their best
winter and introduces Lent. spider, since victims of a clothes. This is referred to as la
Venice holds the most tarantula bite would perform a passeggiata, a walk around that
opulent and the oldest frenzied dance in order to becomes a ritual at weekends,
masquerade party, sweat out the poison. along the seafront and lakeside
while Viareggio, promenades in summer and in
in Tuscany, is Culture city and town centres.
famous for its lively Another aspect of daily life is
themed floats. Spectating, whether the aperitivo. This ritual of joining
Another festival at sporting events, friends for an early evening
highlight is the Palio rural festivals or even drink after work or before going
of Siena (see pp71 and grand events, is what on to dinner or to a nightclub is
345), a bareback horse entertainment is all back in fashion. Bars provide
race that takes place An elaborate about. And part of this, abundant finger-food buffets to
twice a year in one of Carnival mask of course, involves that accompany the drinks, which
Italy’s most beautiful very Italian pastime – are generally priced higher than
squares. For further details seeing and being seen. You can at other times of day. This trend
on festivals throughout Italy, witness this in daily life in the has spawned lounge clubs in
see pp70–73. café culture – visit any of the the major cities.
DIRECTORY
Practical Baths of Caracalla Teatro degli Stadio Olimpico
Information Via delle Terme di Caracalla Arcimboldi Viale dei Gladiatori, Rome.
52, Rome. Map 7 A3. ∑ Viale dell’Innovazione 20, Umbria Jazz
Italian State Tourist operaroma.it/caracalla Milan. Tel 075 573 24 32.
Board Tel 02 641 14 22 00. ∑ umbriajazz.com
1 Princes Street, London La Fenice ∑ teatroarcimboldi.it
Campo San Fantin, Venice.
W1B 2AY. Map 7 A2. Tel 041 78 65 Teatro dell’Opera Theatre and
Tel 020 7408 1254. 11. ∑ teatrolafenice.it Piazza B Gigli 7, Rome. Ballet
∑ italiantouristboard. Map 3 C3.
co.uk Maggio Musicale Tel 06 48 16 01. Teatro Carlo Felice
Florence. Tel 055 277 93 09. Passo E Montale 4,
Ticket One ∑ operadifirenze.it ∑ operaroma.it Genoa.
∑ ticketone.it Tel 010 53 811.
Parco della Musica Rock, Jazz and ∑ carlofelicegenova.it
Opera and Viale de Coubertin 30, Contemporary
Music
Classical Music Rome. Tel 06 80 24 12 81. Cinema
∑ auditorium.com Forum di Assago
Arena di Verona Teatro alla Scala Via G Di Vittorio 6, Assago, Venice Film Festival
Tel 041 521 87 11.
Piazza Brà, Verona. Via Filodrammatici 2, Milan. ∑ labiennale.org/en/
Tel 045 800 51 51. Milan. Tel 02 887 91. Tel 02 48 85 71. cinema
∑ arena.it ∑ teatroallascala.org ∑ mediolanumforum.it


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610  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Specialist Holidays and Outdoor Activities

Italy offers an amazing variety of cultural, sporting and The Federazione Arrampicata
leisure activities. However, many schools and groups require Sportiva Italiana has a list of
annual membership and short-term activities are often mountain-climbing schools that
expensive and difficult to find. Information on current leisure arrange climbs for all abilities.
and sporting events in a specific region is available from the
tourist office listed for each town in this guide. For details on
annual festivals, see Italy Through the Year on pages 70–73.
The following suggestions include some of the most popular
as well as some more unusual pursuits.


maps are the most detailed, but
unfortunately are only available
from specialist map shops.
Cycling is popular despite
Italy’s mountainous landscape.
Travel bookshops stock pub-
lications with suggested routes, Ski lift near the Falzarego Pass, in the heart
such as the Po Delta, which has of the Dolomites
miles of scenic flatlands.
Many riding schools organize
trips and outings, which are Archaeological Digs
also advertised in the local The British monthly magazine
press. For general information, Archaeology Abroad, available in
Cycling on the tree-lined flatlands of the contact the Federazione the UK, gives a comprehensive
Po Delta Italiana Sport Equestri. list of archaeology groups and
digs worldwide. In Italy, the
Gruppo Archeologico Romano
Walking, Cycling and Mountain Sports runs two-week digs in various
Horse Riding
The most well-equipped and regions. There are summer and
Some Italian branches of the famous ski resorts are in the winter digs, for both adults and
World Wide Fund for Nature Dolomites, in the Italian Alps children. The group has
(WWF) organize walks and treks. and around Turin, the city contacts with local archaeo-
Club Alpino Italiano (CAI) runs chosen to host the 2006 Winter logical organizations as well.
trekking and climbing Olympics. There are also smaller
excursions and the Italian Birds and less expensive resorts in the Italian Language and
Protection League (LIPU) Apennines and in Sicily. Package
arranges nature walks and bird- ski holidays, arranged from Culture
watching trips. The military IGM outside Italy, offer the best deals. For a wide selection of material
on courses and schools in Italy,
contact the Italian consulate in
your home country. The Società
Dante Alighieri provides courses
in the Italian language, history
of art, literature and culture.
There are both full- and part-
time courses available, for every
level. Language schools abound
in Italy’s main cities and are
advertised in the Yellow Pages
(Pagine Gialle) or foreign-
language bookshops and
newspapers. For young
students, Intercultura will
organize weekly, monthly and
year-long exchanges, including
language courses, accom-
modation with Italian families
and enrolment in Italian schools.
Group hiking tour in the Dolomites of Trentino-Alto Adige (see p86) Cooking holidays run by




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Subacquee runs DIRECTORY
underwater diving
courses, and can AeroClub Italia
give information on Via Cesare Beccaria 35a, 00196
all local centres. Rome. Tel 06 36 08 46 01.
∑ aeci.it
Air Sports Club Alpino Italiano
Via E. Petrella 19, Milan.
There are schools Tel 02 205 72 31. ∑ cai.it
nationwide that offer
hang-gliding and Federazione Arrampicata
A lesson in Italian cookery in Sicily flying courses, but Sportiva Italiana
the minimum Via del Terrapieno 27, 40127
English-speaking experts in duration of each course is one Bologna. Tel 051 601 48 90.
Italian cooking have become month. For information and a ∑ federclimb.it
very popular. Tasting Places, for list of schools, contact the Federazione Italiana
example, does wine tours and AeroClub Italia. You must be Attività Subacquee
week-long courses in Italian licensed before you can fly, and Via A. Doria 8, Milan.
cuisine, and provides beautiful all crafts must be registered Tel 02 670 50 05. ∑ fias.it
accommodation. The course with AeroClub.
locations include the Veneto, Federazione Italiana Canoa
Sicily, Tuscany and Umbria. Wine- Other Sports Kayak
tasting tours are organized by Viale Tiziano 70, 00196 Rome.
local tourist boards. The Golf is a popular sport in Italy Tel 06 36 85 81 88; 06 36 85 41 75.
Università per Stranieri in and there are plenty of ∑ federcanoa.it
Perugia runs courses in courses to choose from. Federazione Italiana Sport
Italian, art history and Home membership and Equestri
literature (www. handicap are often Viale Tiziano 74, 00196 Rome.
unistrapg.it). required for daily access Tel 06 83 66 84 41. ∑ fise.it
to a club. Italian tennis
clubs usually operate Federazione Italiana di
Water Sports Tennis
on a membership basis,
Most lakes and many seaside unless you are invited Stadio Olimpico, Rome.
resorts rent out sailing boats, as a member’s guest. Tel 06 98 37 21 44.
canoes and windsurfing The national ∑ federtennis.it
equipment. Lessons and Federazione Italiana di Federazione Italiana Vela
courses are organized by Tennis has a list of all Piazza Borgo Pila 40, Genoa.
clubs, which usually require Playing golf the tennis clubs in Italy. Tel 010 54 45 41. ∑ federvela.it
membership. For a list of The opportunity to
authorized associations, contact watch a professional football Gruppo Archeologico
the Federazione Italiana Canoa game should not be missed. Romano
Kayak and the Federazione Seats can be scarce, so book Via Contessa di Bertinoro 6,
Italiana Vela. Weekend and tickets in advance from the 00162 Rome. Tel 06 638 52 56.
weekly sailing holidays and stadium. Most Serie A matches ∑ gruppoarcheologico.it
courses are featured in the are played on Sundays, with Intercultura
magazine Avventure nel Mondo international games taking place Via Venezia 25, 00184 Rome.
and most travel agents have a on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Tel 06 48 88 24 01; 339 565 0573.
selection of sailing holidays. ∑ intercultura.it
Swimming pools are expensive
in Italy and many do not accept Italian Birds Protection
people on a daily basis. You League (LIPU)
often have to pay a membership Via Udine 3a, 43122 Parma.
fee and a monthly tariff. Some Tel 0521 27 30 43. ∑ lipu.it
of the luxurious hotels open Società Dante Alighieri
their pools to the public in Piazza Firenze 27, 00186 Rome.
summer, but at pricey rates. Tel 06 687 36 94. ∑ ladante.it
Water parks are popular and
provide pools, slides, wave Tasting Places Cookery and
machines and games. Before Wine Tours
diving into any lakes or rivers ∑ tastingplaces.com
(and even the sea near main World Wide Fund for Nature
towns), it is best to check that Via Po 25c, 00198 Rome.
the water is not polluted. The Sailing in Italy is a popular leisure activity Tel 06 84 49 71. ∑ wwf.it
Federazione Italiana di Attività and competitive sport




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SURVIVAL


GUIDE





Practical Information 614–623

Travel Information 624–635





















































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614  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Ask any Italian and they will almost certainly public offices and banks are nearly always
tell you that Italy is the most beau tiful crippled by long queues and bureaucracy;
country in the world. They may not be far and the postal service is renowned for
wrong. However, the charm and allure of its inefficiency. This section, together
Italy may help to veil some of her numerous with some forward planning and a little
practical problems. Getting any kind of patience, should help you cope with some
information is rarely straightforward; of Italy’s idiosyncrasies.


police station. In some cases
you can obtain a kit containing
the necessary application form
from main post offices. You
must apply for the correct
permit, either a permit to work
(lavoro) or a permit to study
(studio). The necessary
documentation is listed on the
Questura website (see p617).
To apply for a study permit,
it is necessary to get a letter
from the relevant school or
university at which you intend
to study. This then has to be
Tourists crossing the Ponte della Paglia in Venice (see p113) sent to the Italian consulate in
your own country of origin to
obtain an official covering letter,
When to Visit especially in the north, and or declaration.
The northern part of Italy is December to March is the You will also need some
generally more temperate time of year for skiing in the form of guarantee that your
than the south, which has a high-altitude resorts of the medical bills will be paid if you
Mediterranean climate. From Italian Alps. become ill or have an accident
June to September the weather where you require medical
is hot throughout the country treatment. A comprehensive
and, in peak summer, also Visas and Permesso di insurance policy for the length
Soggiorno
humid. Seaside resorts tend of your stay (see p619) will
to get very busy. Spring and European Union nationals and usually be sufficient.
autumn are ideal for visiting citizens of the US, Canada,
cities as temperatures are Australia and New Zealand Travel Safety
milder, making sightseeing do not need visas for stays
much more comfortable. of up to three months. Most Visitors can get up-to-date travel
Italy’s towns and historic sites European Union (EU) visitors safety information from the
are popular attractions and it is need only a valid passport. Foreign and Commonwealth
worth considering this when All visitors should check Office in the UK, the State
planning your trip. Most sights requirements with the Italian Department in the US and the
are open all year, except on embassy before travelling and, Department of Foreign Affairs
some public holidays (see p73), officially, declare themselves to and Trade in Australia.
and most close one day a week. the Italian police within eight
Rome, Florence and Venice are days of arrival. If you are staying
all crowded from spring to in a hotel or camp site, this will
October and it is advisable to be done for you by the staff;
book a hotel well in advance. otherwise you will need to
In August the cities are generally contact the local police station
slightly less busy, abandoned yourself. Anyone wishing to stay
by their inhabitants for the in Italy for more than three
summer holidays. months will have to obtain a
In February, Venice triples its permit to stay or residence
population during Carn evale permit. Non-EU citizens must
(see p73) and at Easter, Rome is apply for one within eight days
overrun by pilgrims and tourists. of arrival. You can apply for a Rome’s renowned Tazza d’Oro café, an ideal
Winter can be bitterly cold, residence permit at any main rest stop after sightseeing
The wonderful view from the A22 road that carves through the mountains and vineyards that surround Bolzano



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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  615

Customs maps. An EPT (Ente Provinciale di
On 30 June 1999, the intra-EU Turismo) has information on its
Duty and Tax Free Allow ances, town and surrounding province,
better known as duty-free and whereas an APT (Azienda di
mainly affecting such Promozione Turistica)
high-tax items as deals exclusively with
alcohol, perfumes and individual towns.
tobacco, were abolished. Both offices help with
However, for EU practical information
residents the amount of such as hotel bookings
these goods that can be and tours. They also
imported for personal provide free maps and
use has increased. guidebooks in various
Consulates can languages. The EPT
generally provide up- Sign for tourist and APT can refer you
to-date information on information to local tour guides
particular customs and advise on trips Daytime sightseeing on a tranquil canal
regulations. To find out what and excursions. in Venice
you can take back from Italy to Small towns will have a Pro
non-EU countries, contact that Loco, a tourist office run by the Sightseeing Opening
part icular country’s customs local administration, which is
department, which will be able sometimes open only during Hours
to advise you. the tourist season. It is usually Italian museums, particularly
located in the town hall. in the northern and central
regions of the country, mostly
Tax Exemption conform to regulations,
Tours
Value Added Tax (IVA in Italy) opening from 9am to 7pm
ranges from about 22 per cent, Many tour companies organize daily, except for Mondays. In
with a reduced rate of 4–10 per coach trips, with English- winter, museums may revert
cent on some items. Non- speaking guides, that include to slightly earlier closing times,
European Union citizens making all the main tourist attractions particularly on Sundays, so it is
purchases in Italy can claim an in Italy. Companies such as the best to check. In Rome many
IVA rebate, provided the total UK-based Leger Holidays offer museums are open daily.
expenditure in the one shop is coach tours that go all over the Privately run and smaller
over €155. It is a long process, country. If you are looking for museums set their own opening
and it is easier to get a refund if something a little more personal times, so it is best to phone in
you shop where you see the and off the beaten track, check advance to avoid disappoint-
“Euro Free Tax” sign, rather than the local pages of national ment. Archaeological sites are
from a market stall. In this newspapers for tour groups generally open from 9am to one
instance, show your passport or organizations. Local tourist hour before sunset, Tuesday to
to the shop assistant, complete boards will also be able to advise Sunday. Churches tend to open
a form, and the IVA will be you. Always employ official from about 7am to 12:30pm
deducted from your bill. guides and be sure to establish and 4 to 7pm. However, they
Alternatively, present a customs the fee in advance. For often prefer not to let tourists
officer with your purchases and information on specialist holidays, in during services, so Sunday
their receipts on your departure such as sporting or cultural is not the best day to visit.
from Italy. He or she will stamp activities, turn to pages 610–11.
the receipts, which you then Admission Charges
send to the vendor. A refund
should eventually be sent to you. Sightseeing fees range from €2
to €14. Churches are usually
free, but some expect a donation,
Tourist Information and you will need coins to
The national tourist board, ENIT, illuminate some works of art.
has a good website as well as Reductions for students are not
branches in capital cities always offered, but many state-
worldwide, and offers general run museums and archaeological
information on Italy. For specific sites allow free entry for visitors
requests, contact the local tourist under 18 and over 60 or 65
offices. The addresses and years of age. Large groups are
telephone numbers are listed often entitled to a discount as
under each town or city, directly well. If reductions are available,
under the title, and they are A guided group tour on the streets of Rome, you will need to show a valid
plotted on the town and city near Vatican City form of identification.




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616  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Etiquette and Tipping
People in Italy are friendly
towards foreign visitors. On
entering a shop or bar it is
customary to greet people with
a general buon giorno (good
morning) or buona sera (good
evening), and the same applies
when leaving. They will also try
to be helpful when asked
directions in the street. If your
Italian is slight, simply saying
scusi, followed by the name of
the place you wish to go to, A student relaxing in the sun in Gaiole in Chianti
will often suffice. Grazie (thank
you) is replied to with prego Religious Services
(you’re welcome). contact the Associazione
Tipping in restaurants is Around 35 per cent of the Italiana Alberghi per la
expected when the 10–15 per population is practising Catholic. Gioventù (the Italian YHA),
cent service is not inclu ded. Sunday Mass is celebrated providing that you are a
However, as much as 10 per cent throughout the country, while in current member.
would be considered generous the principal churches, services
and a tip is often not expected at are also held during the week. In
all in more basic restaurants. Taxi major cities some churches, Travelling with Children
drivers and hotel porters expect such as the church of Santa On the whole, Italians love
a few euros if they have been Susanna (Via XX Settembre 14) children, to an extent that
helpful. You could simply round in Rome, offer services and sometimes seems over-
the bill up to the nearest €2. confession in English. For some indulgent. Most trattorias and
Italians are very dress- visitors, a trip to Rome will pizzerias welcome them and
conscious and unusual clothes include an audience with the there are no rules excluding
do get noticed. Be aware that in pope (see p423). children from bars; however,
places of worship you should With increasing numbers of highchairs are unusual. Hotels
cover your torso and upper arms; foreigners making their home also welcome children, but
shorts and skirts must reach in Italy, all the main religious smaller establishments may
below the knee. beliefs are also represented. have limited facilities. Some of
Smoking is forbidden in all For details contact the main the more upmarket hotels will
buildings open to the public centres in Rome. arrange a babysitting service.
(including offices, shops, bars Very few museums, on the
and restaurants). However, it is other hand, provide special
tolerated in outdoor public Student Information child-orientated activities. It is
places, whereas drunkenness The national student travel common to see children playing
is definitely frowned upon. organization, CTS (Centro outside fairly late at night,
Turistico Studentesco), has especially in summer. Most
branches throughout Italy and towns have city parks with
Europe. They issue the playgrounds and many have
International Student summer funfairs. Regular stops
Identity Card (ISIC) and for gelato are guaranteed to go
the Youth down well with
International youngsters. For young
Educational swimmers, the calm
Exchange Card Mediterranean is ideal,
(YIEE). Both can though care should
be used, along always be taken.
with a passport, ISIC card
for discounts at
museums and other tourist Disabled Travellers
attractions. The ISIC card also Awareness of the needs of the
gives holders access to a free disabled is improving in Italy,
24-hour telephone helpline in especially in major cities, with
cases of emergency. As well as ramps being added to museums
issuing youth cards, CTS offers and some churches. Trains and
Unacceptable dress in church: both cut-price car hire and will buses are also becoming more
sexes are required to cover torsos and organize holidays and courses. disabled-friendly. In Milan AIAS
upper arms For details about youth hostels, (Associazione Italiana Assistenza




616-617_EW_Italy.indd 616 4/5/17 9:32 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.1)
Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  617

Italian Time
Spastici) and in Rome CO.IN. of enjoying the countryside and
Sociale and Roma per Tutti Italy is 1 hour ahead of experiencing local traditions, as
provide information and general Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). well as helping supplement the
assistance. Train travellers with The clocks are put forward income of small farm own ers.
Trenitalia on both international 1 hour in March and back in Facilities vary and some farms
and domestic routes receive October. For example: London is offer visitors the opportunity to
help with special reservations 1 hour behind Italy; Sydney is help out or enjoy pursuits such
and assistance at stations. 9 hours ahead; while New York as horseriding.
is 6 hours behind. Farmers’ markets and growers
who sell their produce direct to
Public Toilets the public are now more
Responsible Travel
Gabinetto or bagno pubblico common, guaranteeing fresh,
means “public toilet”, though Local attitudes towards seasonal produce. Look for the
signs often say “WC”. Tourist environmental issues are label biologico when searching
cities have well-signed public developing rather slowly in Italy, for organic produce.
conveniences that charge despite the efforts of many
around €1. Some have cleaning concerned groups. However,
staff on hand and a tip may be there are opportunities for low- Conversion Chart
left. Italian cafés usually have a impact travel and alternative Imperial to Metric
toilet for their customers, though green options available. 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
it is worth checking. Old-style Staying at family-run guest- 1 foot = 30 centimetres
“crouch” toilets are still common. houses instead of international 1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
hotel chains helps support 1 ounce = 28 grams
local economies. National and 1 pound = 454 grams
Electrical Adaptors regional parks award eco labels 1 pint = 0.57 litre
The voltage in Italy is 220 volts, to hotels and guesthouses that 1 gallon = 4.6 litres
with two-pin round-pronged adhere to EU rules governing
plugs, so it is advisable to bring sustainable tourism, which Metric to Imperial
a universal adaptor with you or cover issues such as energy- 1 centimetre = 0.4 inch
buy one in the country. Most and water-saving, waste 1 metre = 3 feet 3 inches
hotels with three or more stars disposal and use of local 1 kilometre = 0.6 mile
have hair-dryers and shaving products. The Agriturismo 1 gram = 0.04 ounce
points in all bedrooms, but check (see p560) offers countrywide 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
the voltage first, to be safe. farmstays. These are a great way 1 litre = 1.8 pints

DIRECTORY
Questura and Tourist Infor­ Rome Tourist Office Alberghi per la
Permits mation and Tours Termini Station, Platform Gioventù
24. Map 4 D3. Tel 06 0608. Via Nicotera 1, Rome.
∑ poliziadistato.it APT Florence ∑ turismoroma.it Map off 2 D1. Tel 06 487
∑ portale Via Cavour 1r. Map 2 D4. Religious 11 52. ∑ aighostels.com
immigrazione.it Tel 055 29 08 32. Organizations CTS
∑ firenzeturismo.it
∑ esteri.it/visti Via Solferino 6a, Rome.
APT Siena Catholic Map 4 D3. ∑ cts.it
Customs and Tax Piazza Duomo 1. Tel 0577 Ufficio Informazioni
Vaticano, Piazza San
28 05 51. ∑ terresiena.it Disabled Travellers
∑ agenziadogane. Pietro, Vaticano Map 1 B3.
gov.it APT Venice Tel 06 69 88 16 62. AIAS
Piazza San Marco 71f. Jewish Via P Mantegazza 10,
Travel Safety Map 7 B2. Tel 041 529 87 Unione delle Comunità Milan. ∑ aiasmilano.it
11. ∑ turismovenezia.it Ebraiche Italiane, Lungo-
UK Foreign & tevere Sanzio 9. Map 5 CO.IN.Sociale
Commonwealth ENIT C1. Tel 06 45 54 22 00. Via E Giglioli 54a, Rome.
Office ∑ italia.it ∑ coinsociale.it
∑ gov.uk/foreign- IAT Milan Muslim Roma per Tutti
travel-advice Galleria Vittorio Emanuele Centro Islamico Culturale ∑ romapertutti.it
d’Italia, Viale della
US Dept. of State (corner Piazza Scala). Moschea 85, Rome.
∑ travel.state.gov Tel 02 88 45 55 55. Tel 06 80 82 258. Responsible
∑ visitamilano.it Travel
Australia Dept. of Student
Foreign Affairs & Trade Leger Holidays Information National Association
∑ dfat.gov.au Tel 01709 385 733. for Agritourism
∑ smartraveller.gov.au ∑ leger.co.uk Associazione Italiana ∑ agriturist.it


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618  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Personal Security and Health

Although Italy is generally a safe place for visitors, it is wise to
keep a watchful eye on your personal belongings, especially
in the larger towns and cities. There is a conspicuous police
presence throughout the country and, in the event of an
emergency or crime, any of the police officers described in
this section will be able to assist you and tell you where to go
to report an incident. If you fall ill, pharmacies are a good first
stop where medically trained staff can give advice or tell you
where to find further help. In an emergency, the Casualty
Department (Pronto Soccorso) of any hospital will treat you,
and it is likely that you will encounter English-speaking staff, Commissariato di Polizia – a police
especially in large towns. station
walking, hold bags occurs. The embassy can offer
and cameras in front advice and should provide you
of you and on the with a list of English- and Italian-
inside of the pavement speaking lawyers who are
so as not to tempt knowledge able about both the
motorized snatchers, Italian and US legal systems.
Police car and do not show
expensive cameras
and video equip- Personal Security
ment in areas off Although petty crime in cities is
tourist routes. frequent, violent crime in Italy is
If attacked, never rare. How ever, it is common for
attempt to hang on to people to raise their voices
your things, as you aggressively during an
Green Cross ambulance in Venice could be seriously argument. Usually, remaining
injured and dragged calm and being polite will help
along the street. to defuse the situation.
Avoid carrying Always be wary of unofficial
large sums of money – tour guides, taxi drivers or
take out only what you strangers who wish to assist
need for the day. you or advise you on accom-
It is advisable to get modation, restaurants or shops,
Roman fire engine comprehensive travel as they may expect something
insurance that covers in return. Decline their offers
theft of personal possessions politely but firmly.
Personal Property in addition to covering
Petty theft such as pick pocketing, cancellation/delay of flights,
bag snatching and car theft is loss/damage of luggage, money
common in Italian cities. In the and other valuables, as well as
event of a theft you must report personal liability and accidents.
it within 24 hours to the nearest It should include cover for legal
questura or commissariato di assistance and advice.
polizia (police station). If possible, If you do need to make an
show them some ID. insurance claim for stolen or lost
Avoid leaving anything visible property, you must get a copy
in an unattended car, including of the report (denuncia) from
a car radio. If you have to leave the police station when you
luggage in a car, find a hotel report the incident. In case of
that has private parking. When lost passports, go to your
making a purchase, always embassy or consulate; for lost
check your change and do not credit cards or travellers’
keep wallets in back pockets, cheques, contact the issuing
especially on buses or in other company’s nearest office.
crowded places. “Bum bags” and If you do not have insurance
money belts are a favourite cover, contact your embassy as
target for pickpockets, so try soon as possible after an The brass band of the carabinieri
to keep them hidden. When incident, such as an accident, performing in high uniform




618-619_EW_Italy.indd 618 26/04/16 4:32 pm

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  619

Women Travellers Pharmacies
Women travelling on their own Various medical products,
in Italy are likely to meet with a including homeopathic
lot of attention. This is often more medicines, are available in any
of an irritation than a danger, pharmacy (farmacia), but a
but it is best to keep away from prescription is often required.
lonely, unlit streets and areas Qualified staff will offer advice
near railway stations at night, for minor ailments and common
and to carry an alarm or whistle illnesses and provide appropriate
and be equipped with the medicines. Thanks to a night rota
telephone numbers of your (servizio notturno), there is always
hotel and a local taxi service. a pharmacy open in all cities
Walking quickly and purposefully and most towns. Those that are
is a good way to avoid any open at night are listed in the
unwanted attention. The staff at Outside a Florentine pharmacy with local pages of daily newspapers
hotels and restaurants generally a green cross sign and on all pharmacy doors.
treat their single female guests Pharmacies also sell toiletries
and customers with extra care Medical Treatment and beauty items. Common
and attention. non-prescription pharmaceutical
Emergency medical care in Italy products such as aspirin are also
is free for all EU and Australian sold at lower prices in many
The Police
citizens, thanks to reciprocal large supermarkets.
There are several different police agreements. The EHIC European
forces in Italy and each one Health Insurance Card, which is DIRECTORY
fulfils a particular role. The State available from the UK
police, la polizia, wear blue Department of Health offices, Embassies and
uniforms and drive blue cars. website or from a main post Consulates
They deal with most crimes. office, covers emergencies only; Australia
The carabinieri are militarily private medical insurance is
trained and wear dark blue needed for all other types of Via A. Bosio 5, Rome. Tel 06 85 27
21. ∑ italy.embassy.gov.au
and black treatment. The card comes
uniforms with red with a booklet that contains Canada
striped trousers. general health advice and Via Zara 30, Rome.
These officers deal information about how to Tel 06 85 44 41.
with a variety of claim free medical ∑ canadainternational.gc.ca
offences from treatment when travelling United Kingdom
organized crime abroad. You may find you Via XX Settembre 80a, Rome.
to speeding and have to pay and reclaim the Map 4 D2. Tel 06 42 20 00 01.
can also conduct money later. Australians ∑ ukinitaly.fco.gov.uk
random security need to apply to Medicare.
checks. Non-EU citizens should United States
The guardia di try to arrive in Italy with Via Veneto 119a, Rome.
finanza are the comprehensive private Map 3 C1. Tel 06 467 41.
financial police medical insurance to cover ∑ italy.usembassy.gov
force (the fraud all eventualities. If you do
squad), and wear need emergency treatment, Emergency Numbers
grey uniforms go to the Pronto Soccorso
with yellow (Casualty Department) of General Emergency
Tel 113.
striped trousers. the nearest hospital.
The vigili urbani, or If necessary, you will be Fire Service
the municipal referred to the appropriate Tel 115.
traffic police, wear specialist or department Medical Emergencies
blue and white Municipal policeman within the same structure. Tel 118.
uniforms in winter As an alternative, ask your
and white during the summer. hotel to call the night doctor – Police (Carabinieri)
Even though they are not guardia medica – who can be Tel 112.
official police officers, the vigili consulted on the phone.
urbani can issue heavy fines for No inoculations are needed Medical Treatment
traffic and parking offences. for Italy, but mosquito repellent
They can usually be spotted is advisable in summer. Medicare Australia
∑ medicareaustralia.gov.au
patrolling the streets, enforcing Repellent creams and sprays are
laws or directing traffic. Officers found in pharmacies, as are UK Department of Health
from any of the forces will be electrical repellers which burn ∑ dh.gov.uk
able to help in an emergency. pellets to deter the bugs.



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620  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Banking and Local Currency holiday. Bureaux de change,
however, are often open all day,
Virtually all Italian hotels, many shops, large restaurants and and in some places they also
petrol stations accept major credit cards. Only in the more stay open until late at night.
off-the-beaten-track locations will you have difficulties
without cash in euros, though some establishments will offer Using Banks
a discount for payments made in cash, especially in low season. For security purposes, most
When you pay with a credit card, you might be asked to show banks have electronic double
identification, such as your passport. Foreign currency can doors with metal detectors, that
be changed in banks, although these are often crowded and allow one person in at a time.
service tends to be slow. All banks have cashpoint machines Metal objects and bags should
first be deposited in the lockers
(bancomat) that will accept cards with a PIN number. situated in the foyer. Press the
Most machines also accept MasterCard, VISA and American button to open the outer door,
Express cards. Although banks often have the best exchange then wait for it to close behind
rates, bureaux de change and foreign exchange machines you. The inner door then opens
can be more convenient. automatically. Do not be
alarmed by the heavily armed
guards you will see patrolling
they usually have worse most banks in Italy.
exchange rates and charge Changing money at a bank
more commission than banks. can be a frustrating process
involving endless form-filling and
queuing. First you have to go to
Regional Differences in the window that displays the
Cost of Living cambio sign and then to the
The north is generally more cassa to obtain your money.
expensive than the south, but If in doubt, ask someone in
there are many exceptions. order to avoid waiting in the
Restaurants and hotels off the wrong queue.
Cash dispenser, which also accepts VISA and beaten track are usually better If you need to have money
MasterCard (Access) value, and buying locally made sent to you in Italy, banks at
produce is cost effective if you home can transfer money to an
avoid obvious tourist traps. Italian bank, but it can take up
Changing Money
to a week. American Express,
Banking hours are somewhat Thomas Cook and Western
restrictive and can also be slightly Banking Hours Union all provide swifter money
erratic so it is safest to acquire a Banks are usually open between transfer services, with a charge
small amount of local currency 8:30am and 1:30pm, Monday to the sender.
before you arrive in Italy. to Friday. Most also open for an
Exchange rates will vary from hour in the afternoon, from Cash Machines
place to place. about 2:15pm to 3pm or 2:30pm
Traveller’s cheques are no until 3:30pm, depending on Withdrawing cash from an ATM
longer in common use in Italy. the bank. All banks close at (automatic teller machine) with
Few stores will accept them weekends and for public a credit card is a straightforward
(or even know what they are). holidays, and they also close process. Choose your language
A more modern alternative to early the day before a major on the screen and follow the
the traveller’s cheque is a prepaid instructions. You will need to
currency card. You can apply type in your PIN number, so
online for a card, preload money make sure you know it. Should
from your current account and your card be swallowed up by a
convert it into euros. You can cash machine for some reason
then use the card much like a (for example if you used an
debit card in shops, restaurants, incorrect PIN number), it may be
bars and ATMs. They can be sent back to the issuing bank.
topped up at any time and However, if the bank is open do
cancelled if stolen. As they ask inside. Costs for cash with-
are not connected to a bank drawals are set by your bank, so
account, they minimize the check before you travel. It may
risks of fraud. be advisable to take out a largish
Bureaux de change can amount of money in one go, but
be found in all main towns. Metal-detecting security doors found at bear in mind that ATMs may run
Although they are easier to use, most banks out of notes during weekends.




620-621_EW_Italy.indd 620 4/5/17 9:32 AM

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  621

The Euro and the lira was phased out by the Eurozone countries, each one
The euro (€) is the common March 2002. including designs of fictional
currency of the European Union. EU members using the Euro as architectural structures. The coins,
It came into general circulation sole official currency are known as however, have one side identical
on 1 January 2002, initially for the Eurozone. Several EU mem­ (the value side) and one side with
twelve participating countries. bers have opted out of joining an image unique to each country.
Italy was one of those twelve this common currency. Euro Notes and coins are exchange­
countries taking the euro, notes are identical through out able in each participating country.

Bank Notes
Euro bank notes have seven
denominations. The €5 note (grey
in colour) is the smallest, followed by
the €10 note (pink), €20 note (blue), €50
note (orange), €100 note (green), €200
note (yellow) and €500 note (purple).
All notes show the 12 stars of the
European Union. €5 note



€10 note





€20 note


€50 note


€100 note







€200 note

€500 note







€2 coin €1 coin 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents

Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €1 and
€2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents
and 1 cent. The €2 and €1 coins are both silver
and gold in colour. The 50­, 20­ and 10­cent coins
are gold. The 5­, 2­ and 1­cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent




620-621_EW_Italy.indd 621 4/5/17 9:32 AM

622  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Communications and Media

Although the Italian postal service is known for being
very slow, Italy’s other forms of communication, at
least in the cities, are more efficient. Fax machines,
courier services and telephones are all widespread, Telephone company logo
and Internet points are available throughout Italy.
Foreign-language newspapers and magazines are on sale in receive as well as the calls
all cities and most large towns. Both state-run and privately you make, and you have to
owned television stations exist, but only satellite television pay a substantial premium
and radio stations broadcast foreign-language programmes. for the international leg
of the call.
Another option is to
Telephones The 0 before the local area purchase a local SIM card –
The Italian national telephone code also needs to be dialled the electronic chip that links
company, Telecom Italia, after the country code when your phone to a particular
dismantled the last remaining you are calling from abroad. network – that can be topped
telephone booths in 2014, so Mobile-phone numbers up with credit and uses the
it’s best to rely on your mobile always start with a 3 and are local mobile phone networks.
phone, either by setting not preceded by a 0. You can only do this if your
up a roaming handset is “unlocked” – some
agreement with your operators lock their phones
provider at home or Mobile Phones to specific networks.
by purchasing a local There are four main It is worth checking your
SIM card. TIM and GSM frequencies insurance policy in case your
Vodafone are the Telephone sign (Global System for phone gets stolen. You should
country’s main providers. Mobile Communica- also keep your network
tions) in use around the world, operator’s helpline number
so, to guarantee that your handy for emergencies.
International and Local phone will work, make sure you
Telephone Calls
have a quad-band phone. Tri-
A cheap and efficient way to band phones from outside the Email and Internet
make an international call is US are also usually compatible Internet and email services are
to buy an international calling but, because the US uses two widely available throughout
card, which can be purchased frequency bands itself, a US Italy, particularly in urban areas,
at either tobacconists or tri-band phone may only so it should not
news-stands. have limited global coverage. be difficult to access email
Rates are slightly higher when Contact your service provider accounts or connect to the web.
using it to call a mobile phone. for clarification. Telecom Italia, the Italian
Be sure to check with your hotel To use your mobile phone national phone company, has
before using a card from your abroad you may need to set up Internet services in the
room, because additional get “permission” from your country’s major train stations
charges may be applied. network operator, as often and public phone centres.
To make a local call, always they need to enable “roaming” Internet time can be purchased
dial the area code preceded by for your phone. using a regular phone card.
0, even if you are calling a At the moment, you are Some major chains of Internet
number within the same town. charged for the calls you points sell magnetic cards with
credit that can be used in any
of their stores throughout Italy.
Internet Train, with branches
in over 40 towns, is the most
visible. Visit its website for a full
list of stores. In addition, small
Internet points are very
common. These are usually
Rome Italy Man look- clustered around train stations,
ing computer internet cheap hotels and university
point areas and can range from the
back room of a café or bar to
the corner of a laundrette. Users
can buy computer time in
blocks as short as 15 minutes.
Using an Internet café in Rome There are usually student




622-623_EW_Italy.indd 622 4/5/17 9:32 AM

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  623


discounts available, and cost per respectively. Florence’s Firenze DIRECTORY
minute decreases as the amount Spettacolo has weekly enter-
of time purchased increases. tainment listings magazines. Always remember to use the full
Many hotels have Wi-Fi, The latter also has a useful area code (including the first
zero), even when phoning within
so travellers with their own restaurant section and a a city.
laptop can have easy access. summary of listings in English
You’ll probably need a plug at the back. Useful Numbers
adaptor, too. Remember that British and American papers,
with Skype or Voip Stunt such as the International Herald Directory Enquiries
installed it’s possible to make Tribune, The Guardian, and USA Tel 1254 (Option 1).
phone calls over the Internet Today, are readily available and Multilingual Directory
with the help of a small tend to arrive in the main cities Enquiries
microphone. Calls are free at around midday on the day Tel 1254 (Option 2).
between Skype users. of publication.
Operator Services
Tel 170 (also for reverse charge
TV and Radio Post Offices and calling card calls).
Television channels in Italy Local post offices open from American Operators
include the state-owned RAI 8:25am to 1:50pm weekdays, Tel 800 17 24 44 (AT&T).
(Uno, Due and Tre) and Mediaset and from 8:25am to noon on Tel 800 17 24 01 (Verizon).
(Retequattro, Canale Cinque Saturday. Main city post offices Tel 800 17 24 05 (Sprint).
and Italia Uno). There are also are open from 8:25am to 7pm
many local channels. Most nonstop. Many tobacconists Australian Operators
foreign programmes are also sell stamps. Tel 800 17 26 10 (Telstra).
dubbed into Italian, although The Vatican City and the state Tel 800 17 26 11 (Optus).
satellite channels, such as BBC of San Marino have their own Country Codes
World News, Sky and CNN, show postal systems and stamps. Bear
news and sports programmes in in mind that letters bearing San To call Italy from these countries,
English. There are three national Marino or Vatican stamps can dial the code and then the full
radio stations and hundreds only be posted in San Marino area code (including the 0) and
of local stations. and Vatican postboxes. the number.
The red postboxes (blue Tel 00 39 – UK
in the Vatican) usually have Tel 0 1139 – US & Canada
two slots, labelled per la città Tel 00 39 – Ireland
(for the city only) and tutte
le altre destinazioni (for all Tel 00 1139 – Australia
other destinations). Email and Internet
Italian post is notorious for its
unreliability, and letters can take Internet Train
between four days and two ∑ internettrain.it/dovesiamo.
weeks to arrive. html
A selection of newspapers available at a For a faster service it is best
newsstand to send letters by express Skype
post services such as ∑ skype.com
Postacelere (for letters) and Voip Stunt
Newspapers
Paccocelere (for larger packages). ∑ voipstunt.com
There are several national daily Both services are based at all
newspapers, including La main post offices and guarantee Post and Couriers
Stampa, Il Corriere della Sera and delivery within 24 to 72 hours.
La Repubblica. Papers with the They are far cheaper than Italian Post Office
∑ poste.it
most detailed news of Italy’s private couriers. Another reliable
major cities include Il Mattino for option is recorded delivery Private Couriers
Naples, Il Messaggero for Rome, (raccomandata). Anything of
La Nazione for Florence and value should be sent by insured DHL
Il Giornale for Milan. post (assicurata). Tel 199 19 93 45.
All newspapers will have ∑ dhl.it
local pages and listings for City letters Other destinations
cinemas, theatres, main Fedex
Tel 199 15 11 19.
concerts and other cultural
events. In Rome and Milan, ∑ fedex.com
La Repubblica also publishes UPS
regular “what’s on and where Tel 02 30 30 30 39.
to go” supplements called ∑ ups.com
Trova Roma and ViviMilano Italian postbox


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624  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Italy has transport systems of varying Europe are good, though Alpine roads can be
efficiency, from the modern road, bus and rail adversely affected by the weather in winter.
networks of the north to the slower systems Motorways and other roads within the
of the south. Numerous airlines operate country are generally good, but can be busy
flights to several of the country’s major at weekends and peak periods. Italy also has
airports. Within Italy itself, the national carrier an efficient system of ferries connecting
Alitalia and several smaller companies Sicily, Sardinia and many of the smaller off-
provide an extensive network of internal shore islands. Many of these are car ferries,
flights. Connections by road to the rest of and are busy in summer.


Green Travel Arriving by Air
An excellent public transport Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) and Milan’s Malpensa are the
network makes travelling in key airports for long-haul flights into Italy. Milan’s Linate airport
Italy – without using high- handles some European flights, and most European airlines also fly to
impact flights or long car Venice, Turin, Naples and Pisa (for Florence). Many airlines are now
drives – quite straight forward. flying regularly to smaller cities such as Florence, Genoa, Bologna,
Rail and bus systems both offer Verona and Bergamo, while charter flights serve summer destinations
regular and reliable services in peak season such as Catania, Olbia and Rimini.
and are reasonably priced.
Connections with major
European cities are good and
travellers can often choose
between day services on the
Eurocity trains and overnight
services on the EuroNight trains.
There are also high speed trains,
known as the Alta Velocità
(see pp628–9).
In places where only a few
people use a service (such as
to outlying hamlets in the
Alps and Apennines), some
authorities have set up a servizio The bright hall at Fiumicino airport, Rome
a chiamata (demand-responsive
service), whereby passengers
phone a toll-free number to Long-Haul Flights European Low-Cost Flights
book a vehicle. This results in If you are flying from the United It has never been so easy to get
cost savings for the council States, Delta and United to Italy by air. British Airways
and a reduction in carbon Airlines operate regular direct and Alitalia and its partners
emissions, plus passengers scheduled flights to Rome and fly to major destinations in
get a personalized taxi for the Milan, with services from New Italy from large European
price of a single bus ticket. York, Philadelphia, Los Angeles, cities. However, low-cost,
Within cities, less polluting Boston and Chicago. Air “no-frills” airlines offer many
vehicles such as battery- or Canada flies from Montreal and more destinations.
methane-powered buses and Toronto, and Qantas flies from Ryanair flies to more than
vaporetti have been introduced. Sydney and Melbourne. 20 airports (including Genoa,
Bicycle tracks and cycle A regular service between Rome-Ciampino, Turin and
hire points are increasing in Rome and Milan and New York, Venice-Treviso) from Stansted;
number, and many cities such Boston, Chicago, Miami and while easyJet, from Gatwick,
as Milan and Rome have plenty Toronto is also offered by the Luton or Stansted, serves
of hire points and marked safe Italian state airline, Alitalia. Rome-Ciampino, Milan, Venice,
tracks. The Trentino-Alto Adige It may, however, be more Pisa, Palermo and Naples, and
regions are especially well convenient and cheaper for also Rome, Olbia and Pisa from
organized, with long-distance long-haul passengers to take a Bristol. Meridiana flies to
cycle routes. For a small budget flight to London, Florence and Olbia from
charge bicycles can be trans- Frankfurt, Paris, Athens or Gatwick and, like Blu-Express,
ported on many regional and Amsterdam and then continue also offers a number of
inter national trains. to Italy from there. domestic flights.




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TR A VEL INFORM A TION  625


during the summer months and DIRECTORY
over the Christmas and Easter
holidays. Where possible, ask for Green Travel
available student discounts. Cycling in Trentino
∑ visittrentino.it
Package Holidays Airlines
Package holidays to Italy are
usually cheaper than travelling Air Canada
independently, unless you are ∑ aircanada.com
travelling on a tight budget and Alitalia
An aircraft at Rome’s Fiumicino airport are prepared to make use of Tel 89 20 10. ∑ alitalia.com
youth hostels and camp sites.
Rome, Florence and Venice are Blu-Express
Tickets and Fares often offered as separate or ∑ blu-express.com
Fares vary enormously linked package deals, and British Airways
according to season and supply many operators have packages Tel 02 69 63 36 02.
and demand. You can usually to the Tuscan and Umbrian ∑ britishairways.com
get the best deals by booking country side, Sicily, the Italian
online well in advance. Lakes, the Italian Riviera, Delta
Consult a good travel agent Naples and the Amalfi Coast. ∑ delta.com
or check availability on the In winter, ski packages are easyJet
Internet. If you are based in available to many Alpine resorts. ∑ easyjet.com
the UK, it may be worthwhile Specialist packages, such as
to scour the small ads of cooking, walking and art tours, Meridiana
newspapers for charter and are common. ∑ meridiana.it
discounted scheduled flights In cities, different tour operators Qantas
on major routes. Most charters may use different hotels, so it ∑ qantas.com
leave from Gatwick or Luton, is worth researching the most Ryanair
and may land at a city’s second pleasant (and centrally located) ∑ ryanair.com
(and often less convenient) accommodation options. Many
airport. Fares tend to vary operators include transfers from United Airlines
greatly during the year, but the the airport to your hotel. Some ∑ united.com
most expensive periods are include tour guides.
Distance Taxi fare Public transport
Airport Information
to city centre to city centre to city centre
Rome 06 659 51
(Fiumicino) ∑ adr.it 35 km (22 miles) €48 V 30 mins
Rome 06 659 51 15 km (9 miles) €35
(Ciampino) ∑ adr.it @ q 45 mins
Milan 02 23 23 23 8 km (5 miles) €20
∑ milanolinate-
(Linate) airport.com @ 15 mins
Milan 02 23 23 23 50 km (31 miles)
∑ milanomalpensa-
(Malpensa) airport.com €90 V q 60 mins
Pisa 050 84 91 11 V to Pisa: 10 mins
(Galileo Galilei) ∑ pisa-airport.com 2 km (1 mile) €10 V to Florence: 80 mins
Venice 041 260 92 60 13 km (8 miles) €35 g 60 mins @ 20 mins
(Marco Polo) ∑ veniceairport.it (€100 water taxi)
0422 31 51 11 @ to Treviso: 20 mins
Venice (Treviso) 25 km (15 miles) €70 to Venice
∑ trevisoairport.it @ to Venice: 70 mins
045 809 56 36 666
Verona 12 km (7 miles) €25 @ 15 mins
∑ aeroportoverona.it
035 32 63 23
Bergamo ∑ orioaeroporto.it 5 km (3 miles) €18 @ 25 mins
011 567 63 61
Turin ∑ aeroportoditorino.it 15 km (9 miles) €30 £ 20 mins
081 789 61 11 ∑
Naples 7 km (4 miles) €20 @ 30 mins
aeroportodinapoli.it
091 702 02 73
Palermo 35 km (21 miles) €40–€45 £ 50 mins @ 1 hr
∑ gesap.it


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626  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Arriving by Sea, Rail and Road

Italy is served by an extensive network of roads, railways
and international ferry lines. Road and rail links cross into
the country from France, Switzerland, Austria and Slovenia,
and there are through train services from as far afield as
Budapest, London and Barcelona. Road connections into the
country are generally of motorway standard, though delays
can occur at some of the many Alpine passes and tunnels
during bad weather or peak summer holiday periods.
Self-service help points with train
information on screens
cities to Milan, Turin, Venice and
Verona. There are also direct
services from Vienna, Spain and
the south of France. Motorail
connections exist from several
centres in northern Europe and
the Channel ports.
The popularity of low­cost
airlines has forced international
train travel to be a little more
competitive – if booked online.
Special discount fares, however,
are often available for senior
travellers and for people
under 26.
Ticket windows at Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station Trains can be extremely busy
during peak periods, particularly
on Friday and Sunday evenings,
Arriving by Car Arriving by Train and during the Christmas and
Most roads into Italy from the After air travel, arriving by train Easter holiday periods. July and
rest of Europe involve Alpine is the least painful way to August can also be frantically
crossings by tunnel or mountain reach Italy. busy, especially
pass. The notable exceptions are Countless on routes from
the approach from Slovenia in services Platform sign Germany and ports
the northeast (on the A4 motor­ (including many connecting with
way) and the French Riviera sleepers) link Greek ferries in the
route that enters Italy as the Italian towns and south. Reservations
A10 motorway at Ventimiglia. cities with places on most services
The most popular route from as far afield Exit sign are advisable.
Geneva and southeast France, as Brussels,
via the Mont Blanc tunnel and Budapest and Barcelona.
A5 motorway, enters Italy close Connections from Paris (and Arriving by Boat
to Aosta and Turin. The Gotthard London, via Eurostar) run to Most people arriving in Italy by
Base tunnel also runs between Turin, Milan, Venice, Bologna, boat do so from Greece, using
Switzerland and Italy and is Florence or along Italy’s west services from Corfu and Patras
57 km (35 miles) long. Another coast, via Genoa and Pisa, to to Brindisi and other south­
approach from Switzerland uses Rome and Naples. Services also eastern ports. Boats are
the St Bernard Pass and tunnel. operate from German, Swiss crowded in summer, as are
Further east, the main route and other northern European connecting train services from
from Austria and southern Brindisi to the rest of Italy.
Germany crosses the Brenner Other international con­
Pass and goes down to Verona nections include ferries from
on the A22 motorway via Trento Malta and North African ports
and the Adige valley. The passes to Palermo, Naples and various
are rarely closed for bad weather, southern Italian ports. Boats also
but snow and fog can make run from towns in the south of
progress slow on the winding France to Genoa, Livorno and
roads through the mountains. ports on the Italian Riviera,
Most motorways are toll­roads A Frecciargento train on the track at Venice and from the Croatian coast
that you pay for as you exit. railway station across the Adriatic to Venice.




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TR A VEL INFORM A TION  627

Arriving by Bus Paris is often
Bus travel to Italy is relatively necessary).
cheap, but long travel times Buses travel via
make it one of the least Dover, Calais,
comfortable ways to travel. Paris, and Dijon
The travel time from London to and it is useful
Milan is about 24 hours, and it to have some
is about 33 hours from London euros with you
to Rome. A night on the road is for stops en
thus unavoidable. Eurolines runs route. Travel
buses from London’s Victoria around Italy by
Coach Station to most of Italy’s long-distance
major cities as far as Rome and bus is feasible
Naples (a change at Milan or with SITA.
Tourist coaches parked in Venice’s bus station
Travelling by Ferry archipelago such as Capraia.
Italy’s large number of off-shore islands have led to a large and Ferries run from ports close
well-developed network of ferries, as well as ferry services to the to Rome to Ponza and its
surrounding islands, and from
rest of Europe and North Africa.
Naples to Capri and Ischia.
On the east coast the Tremiti
islands are linked to ports on
the Gargano peninsula.
Hydrofoils are increasingly
complementing conventional
ferries, particularly on the busy
routes to Capri and Ischia.
Hydrofoils, and ferries, also
run on some of Italy’s lakes,
such as Como and Garda.
Lines for ferries are common in
summer, so make reservations
well in advance if you wish to
One of the Moby Lines car ferries that sail the Mediterranean travel in July or August, especially
if taking a vehicle. Ferry services
are more frequent and reliable
Ferries major Sicilian ports to the Egadi in summer than in winter.
Car ferries are a convenient link and the Aeolian archipelagoes, Reservations can be made
with the beautiful islands as well as to countless other small online, through travel agents,
scattered off the Italian main land. islands around Sicily (although be or at a ferry line’s agents in your
Boats for Sardinia leave from aware that ferries to the smaller own country. Ticket prices can
Civitavecchia (north of Rome), islands do not always carry cars). vary according to the time of
Livorno, and Genoa, and depart Boats also ply between Elba year but are generally reasonable.
for Sicily from Naples and Reggio and Piombino, as well as to the To check schedules and fares,
di Calabria. Ferries run from the smaller islands of the Tuscan visit the relevant website.
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Train Ferries Moby Lines Tirrenia
Tel 199 303 040. Tel 892 123; 02 26 30 28
Ferrovie Corsica Sardinia ∑ mobylines.it 03. ∑ tirrenia.it
dello Stato Ferries Piombino – Elba Bari – Durazzo
Tel 89 20 21 (in Italy). Tel 199 400 500. Genoa/Livorno – Olbia Genoa – Porto Torres
∑ corsicaferries.it
∑ trenitalia.com Civitavecchia – Olbia
Civitavecchia/Livorno – Naples – Palermo/Cagliari
Golfo Aranci SNAV Cagliari – Palermo
Arriving by Bus Tel 081 428 55 55.
Grandi Navi Veloci ∑ snav.it Venezia Lines
Eurolines Tel 010 209 45 91. Ancona – Split Tel 041 882 11 01.
∑ eurolines.co.uk ∑ gnv.it Genoa/ ∑ venezialines.com
Civitavecchia – Palermo Naples/Sorrento – Venice – Rabac
SITA Genoa – Porto Torres/ Capri/Ischia Venice – Porec/Rovinj/Pula
∑ sitabus.it Olbia Naples – Aeolian Islands Bari – Durazzo



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628  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travelling by Train

Train travel is one of the best ways to explore Italy. Tickets are
inexpensive, services frequent, and the trains are some of the
most modern in Europe. Services can be busy, but the days of
rampant overcrowding are mostly over. Lines often run
through lovely countryside, from mountain lakes to rolling
plateaux, and they provide more convenient links between A Eurostar – one of Italy’s fastest trains
cities than roads or air travel. Only in the south, or deeply rural
areas, are services slow and infrequent. on both outbound and return
journeys, or you will be fined. A
ticket’s validity usually starts on
The Network
and Interregionali trains the day of purchase, so be sure
The bulk of Italy’s rail network is make more stops and require to specify the day of travel
an integrated state-run system no supplement. when buying tickets. Fares are
operated by Trenitalia of the All AV, ES, EC and Intercity calculated on a kilometric basis
Ferrovie dello Stato (FS), which trains are usually air-conditioned. and are among the cheapest
has introduced super-fast services Branch line carriages can still in western Europe. Many
reducing travel times between be ancient. discounted fares are offered,
major cities. In this, it competes Facilities for the disabled including special family tickets.
with the NTV consortium, whose include assistance at stations, Some online ticket purchases
trains are known as Italo by most exits on all fast trains and also carry discounts.
people. Smaller privately run lines international services. For Refunds involve a
also fill crucial gaps left by the assistance, ask at the special complicated process – enquire
FS, but through-tickets are Sale Blu (Blue Halls) in main line at the Assistenza counter at
generally available where travel train stations. major stations. It is important,
involves both networks. State therefore, to buy the correct
and private lines often share the ticket before travelling.
same main station (stazione), Tickets, Fares and If you plan to use trains often,
Timetables
and also charge similar fares. visit www.trenitalia.com for the
Tickets (biglietti) are available online timetable.
as single (andata) or return
Trains
(andata e ritorno) in first class
Trenitalia and NTV (Italo) take (prima classe) or second class Passes
advantage of the Alta Velocità (seconda classe). They can be The most useful pass for visitors
(AV) network between major bought at some travel agents is the Interrail Pass, which gives
cities in the north and south- or at any station ticket office unlimited travel for consecutive
wards as far as Naples. These, the (biglietteria). or non-consecutive days over
fast Eurostar (ES) and a handful Major stations have automatic varying periods, with special
of other special high-speed ticket machines and you can rates for those under 26. It can
trains always require pre- also buy tickets through the be purchased online or at most
booking of seats. Intercity (IC) Trenitalia app for iPhone and mainline stations and various
trains and Eurocity (EC) trains the ProntoTreno app for agencies outside Italy. An
only stop at major stations and Android and other devices. Interrail One Country Pass
require the pay ment of a Please note that you must be allows travel on any five or ten
supplement (un supplemento) registered on the Trenitalia days within a specific period
on top of the standard ticket website in order to use the within one country.
(supplements can be bought app, so it is wise to register
on the train, but are consider- before departure. Be sure to Validity and Reservations
ably more expensive). Regionali validate all non-digital tickets
Single or return tickets are valid
for up to two months from the
date of purchase. If a seat
reservation is made with the
ticket, however, the date you
wish to travel will be stamped
automatically on the ticket.
Reservations are automatic on
AV and Eurostar services, and
they are a good idea on all trains
on and around public holidays.
Reservations can be made at
The concourse at Stazione Termini, Rome most main stations or online.




628-629_EW_Italy.indd 628 4/5/17 9:32 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical (transport) template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 2nd August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  629

Reductions Further south, trains cross the FTI (Ferrovie Turistiche
The Smart Price deal offers Straits of Messina to Sicily on a Italiane) groups in the north
discounts on international trains special ferry, while a narrow- through alpine foothills and
between Italy and various gauge line circles Mount Etna. past picturesque lakes, as
European countries. Single prices For steam train enthusiasts, well as in the countryside
range from €19 to €70, though there are trips run by the outside Siena.
there are additions for couchettes
and wagon-lits. Tickets can be Machines for Trenitalia Rail Tickets
bought at mainline stations or
on the Trenitalia website, though These machines are easy to use, and most have instructions on
only a fixed number are available screen in a choice of six languages. They accept coins, notes and
so book ahead. credit cards.
Touch screen: choose
Left Luggage 1destination, train and
Main city stations usually have ticket type, make seat
reservations and choose
left-luggage facilities. Most are payment method.
manned (but the smaller stations
have self-service lockers), and 2 Insert coins here.
you may need to present
identification when depositing 3 Insert banknotes here.
or collecting bags. Fees are
calculated per bag and by the Make payment with credit
number of hours bags are left. 4card: use touchpad with
slot for card below.
Scenic Rail Routes Receive train tickets,
Italy’s varied geography makes 5seat reservations and
change here.
for some memorable train trips
across the length and breadth of
the country. The glacially shaped
Adige valley between Bolzano
and Verona in the north is thick Italy’s Principal FS Network
with apple orchards and
surrounded by soaring alpine The Italian state rail network operates various types of service. Check
peaks, with the pretty Trento- what is on offer before buying your ticket.
Male line branching off it. The Brennero
Tuscan countryside south of Domodossola Chiasso Treviso Udine
Florence boasts views of hill- Como
towns and rolling wheat fields, Modane Torino Milano Vicenza Padova Trieste
while close by in Lazio the Roma Verona
Nord-Viterbo line winds its way Tortona Piacenza Venezia
through beautiful rural scenery. Alessandria
Genova
DIRECTORY Ventimiglia Bologna
Pisa
Trains Firenze
Livorno Arezzo Ancona
Erail Travel Ltd Grosseto
Tel 020 7619 1083 (UK). Civitavecchia Pescara
∑ erail.co.uk Roma
FTI (Ferrovie Turistiche Formia
Italiane) Key Caserta Foggia
∑ ferrovieturistiche.it
Main stations Bari
Interrail Pass Other stations Napoli
∑ interrail.eu Taranto Brindisi
Principal rail route
NTV (Italo) Route over water Sibari
∑ italotreno.it Paola Lecce
Catanzaro
Trenitalia Messina
Information for travel all over Palermo Via san Giovanni
Italy. Tel 89 20 21. Catania Reggio Calabria
∑ trenitalia.com Siracusa




628-629_EW_Italy.indd 629 4/5/17 9:32 AM

630  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travelling by Car

A motoring tour is a practical way of exploring the country,
though you should take into account high petrol prices,
parking difficulties, driving restrictions in cities and the
Italians’ occasionally erratic approach to driving. A car is One-way street
invaluable in the countryside and for extensive touring, but less
useful in major towns and cities, due to congestion and the fact
that most city centres are off-limits to non-residents’ cars.


Blue signs showing main roads and
green signs showing motorways
from tobacconists and the ACI.
There is a congestion charge in
Milan (7:30am–7:30pm Mon–
Fri); phone 800 437 437 or visit
www.comunemilano.it/ecopass
before entering the city.
Secondary roads are known
as Nazionali (N) or as Strade
Automatic tollbooths on the motorway outside Florence Statali (SS), and vary enormously
in quality. Mountain roads are
What to Take Roads
usually good, but distances can
Drivers from outside Italy Italy has a good network of be deceptive. In winter, snow
bringing their own foreign- motorways, though many have chains are obligatory on many
registered cars into the country a total of only four lanes, often higher routes.
must carry a Green Card leading to congestion. Busy Back roads can offer incredible
(for insurance purposes), routes include the A1 from views, but there are often
all the vehicle’s registration Bologna to Florence and hairpin bends. Sound your horn
documents, and a full, valid between Bologna, Parma and when approaching a blind bend
driving licence (patente in Milan. Tolls are payable on and flash your lights at night.
Italian). Any EU nationals who most motorways (autostrade), Roads known as strade bianche,
do not have the standard EU again leading to congestion or “white roads” have only a
“pink” licence and are planning at tollbooths (Alt Stazione) at gravel surface. These are often
to stay for more than six months busy periods. Payment is made narrow and steep, but usually
will need an Italian translation at the end of the journey in passable to cars. Avoid driving
of their licence, obtainable from cash, credit card or pre-paid in unfamiliar areas of the
most motoring organizations magnetic VIA cards, available countryside at night.
or from the Italian state tourist
office in your home country. Rules and Regulations
A red warning triangle and Drive on the right, use the
fluorescent vests must also left lane only for passing,
be carried at all times, for use and give way to traffic from
in the event of a breakdown. the right. Seat belts are
compulsory for all passengers
Petrol in the front and back. Heavy No stopping End of speed
Petrol (benzina) in Italy is fines are levied for using a restriction
mobile phone while driving.
some of the most expensive Headlights must be turned
in Europe (diesel, or gasolio, on even during the day on
is a little cheaper). Although motor ways and outside
many petrol stations are now built-up areas. The speed
self-service, it is still common limit in urban areas is 50 km/h
to be served by an attendant. (30 mph); outside urban Pedestrianized Give way to
Most petrol stations follow areas it is 110 km/h (70 mph) street – no traffic oncoming traffic
normal shop hours, so make on dual carriageways and
sure you have a full tank before 90 km/h (55 mph) on other
lunchtime or public holidays. secondary roads. On motor-
On motorways petrol stations ways the limit is 130 km/h
tend to be open 24 hours a (80 mph) for vehicles over
day. Credit cards and debit 1100cc and 110 km/h (70 mph) Danger (often with
cards are usually accepted. for those under 1100cc. No parking description)




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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.1)
Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  631


may be reserved for devices. Leave your car in a
residents’ parking guarded car park whenever you
(marked riservato ai can. Be especially careful driving
residenti). Most at night, when Italian driving is
towns have metered more cavalier than usual, and
Logo for international car hire company Europcar parking areas that when many traffic lights switch
charge an hourly to flashing amber. Hitching
fee, paid with coins, cards or (autostop) is not a good idea
Car Hire coupons bought from tabacchi. (and is not common), certainly
Car hire (autonoleggio) is Cars can be towed away or never for women on their own.
expensive in Italy, and should be clamped, especially in areas
organized beforehand through marked zona rimozione, DIRECTORY
fly-drive deals or pre-booked particularly on street-cleaning
with firms who have branches in days. Call the municipal police Car Hire
Italy. For on-the-spot hire, Italian (vigili) to retrieve your car. Avis
firms may be cheaper than big Tel 06 45 21 08 391.
international names. Agencies ∑ avisautonoleggio.it
are listed in Yellow Pages (Pagine
Gialle) under Autonoleggio. Most Europcar
airports conveniently have car Tel 199 30 70 30.
hire offices on site. ∑ europcar.it
To rent a car in Italy you must Hertz
generally be over 21 (and Tel 199 11 22 11.
sometimes older) and have held ∑ hertz.it
a valid driver’s licence for at Maggiore
least a year. Visitors from outside Tel 199 15 11 20.
the EU require an international ∑ maggiore.it
licence, though in practice not
all hire firms insist on this. Check Sixt
the small print of the agreement Tel 06 65 21 11 (Rome).
∑ sixt.it
for insurance cover.
Emergencies
Official parking area patrolled by attendant
Accidents and ACI emergency
Breakdowns Tel 80 3116. ∑ aci.it
Safety
If you have an accident or a Police
breakdown, switch on your Car theft is rife in Italy. Never Tel 112 or 113.
hazard warning lights and place leave anything in your car, and
a warning triangle 50 m (164 ft) (if possible) always remove Ambulance
behind your car. Then (for radio-CD players and sat-nav Tel 118.
breakdowns) call the ACI
emergency number (803 116) Distance Chart
or the emergency services
(112 or 113). The ACI will tow Rome 10 Distance in kilometres
any foreign-registered car free 286 10 Distance in miles
to the nearest ACI-affiliated 178 Ancona
garage. They also do free repairs 748 617 Aosta
for members of affiliated 465 383
associations, such as the AA 383 219 401 Bologna
and RAC in Britain. 238 136 249
645
494 449 280
If you have an accident, keep 401 307 279 174 Bolzano
calm, and do not admit liability 278 262 470 106 367 Florence
or make any statements that 173 163 292 66 228
might incriminate you later. 510 506 245 291 422 225 Genoa
140
315
152 181
317
262
Simply swap car and insurance 601 614 1220 822 1097 871 1103
details, names and addresses. 373 382 758 511 682 541 685 Lecce
575 426 181 210 295 299 145 1029 Milan
357 265 113 130 183 186 90 639
Parking 219 409 959 594 856 489 714 393 786 Naples
Parking in most Italian cities and 136 254 596 369 532 304 444 244 488
673 547 110 332 410 395 170 1150 138 884
large towns is a problem. Many 418 340 68 206 255 245 106 715 86 549 Turin
historic centres have restricted 530 364 442 154 214 255 397 967 273 741 402 Venice
daytime access and baffling 329 226 275 96 133 158 247 601 170 460 250
one-way systems. Other areas
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632  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travelling within Cities

The best ways of getting around Italian cities differ from place
to place. In Rome buses are most useful, in Milan the metro is
more efficient, and in Venice you will need to take a boat to
get about. Trams still run in some cities, such as Milan and
Rome. Cars are a liability almost everywhere, unlike walking,
which in many cases is the easiest way to negotiate the tight Bus stop displaying the route
historic cores of Italian towns and cities. Florence and Rome
have a large limited-traffic zone, and most towns now have a them in machines at the
pedestrian area in the centre. front or rear of the bus. There
are large on-the-spot fines if
you are caught without a
properly validated ticket. The
front, low seats on buses are
for people with children, the
elderly and the disabled.
Most larger cities have
transport information offices
at the main train station or
piazza which provide free maps,
A Roman bus in the red and grey livery of ATAC timetables and tickets.
The majority of city buses
are painted bright orange and
display the final destination
(capolinea) on the front.

Metropolitana
One of the distinctive orange city buses, central Verona
Underground systems, known as
metropolitana (la metro for short),
company’s sticker. A few cities are found in Rome and Milan.
Buses and Trams also have on-street vending Rome’s network consists of two
Virtually every Italian city and machines around the main lines, A and B, which converge at
large town has a bus system. transport hubs. It is often worth Stazione Termini, the city’s
Most are cheap, comprehensive buying more than one ticket at central railway station. A third “C”
and as efficient as traffic and a time, as outlets often close in line is under con struc tion, with
narrow streets will allow and the afternoon or early some stations already
vary only slightly from city to evening. Discounted opera tional. Several
city. Bus stops are known as tickets (un blocchetto or stations are useful for
fermate, and increasingly un carnet), or day- or key sights, and at peak
(notably in Rome) list full details week-long visitors’ times the lines provide
of the routes they serve. Buses tickets and passes (una the best way of crossing
(autobus) usually run from tessera or tesserino) are Metro sign the city quickly. Stations
about 6am to midnight, and also available. In some are fairly dingy – though
there are night buses (servizio cities tickets are valid for any rarely dangerous – and train
notturno) in larger cities. If you number of journeys within a carriages can be stiflingly hot in
arrive in a town by train, stations given time. The ATAC website summer. In Milan there are three
are invariably linked to the (www.atac.roma.it) has more principal lines – MM1 (the red
centre by shuttle buses from details on bus services in Rome. line), MM2 (green) and MM3
the station forecourt (tickets (yellow) – that meet at the hub
are usually available from the stations of Stazione Centrale,
station bar or tobacconist). Duomo, Cadorna and Loreto.
Using Buses and Trams
Board buses via the front and
Tickets
rear doors, and exit via the
Tickets (biglietti) must be bought central doors. Buses usually only
before boarding the bus from have a driver and no conductor
kiosks belonging to the bus (though night buses may have
company (ATAF in Florence, ATAC a conductor from whom tickets
in Rome), bars, newsstands or can be bought). Tickets must
tobacconists displaying the bus be validated by punching Termini Metro station, Rome




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(Source v1.1)
Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  633


boot, for rides between 10pm
and 7am, on Sundays and public
holidays, and for journeys to and
from airports.
In theory, taxis cannot be
hailed. Take one at an official
taxi stand (usually found at the
station, main piazza or close to
key tourist sights), or reserve
one by phone. When you order
a taxi by phone, take the driver’s
code name, eg Napoli 18. If you
An official taxi waiting at a pedestrian crossing call a cab, the meter will run
from your call.
These three lines (churches, museums
give easy access to and other places of Cycle Hire
the majority of the interest are often
city’s main sights. indicated by yellow Many towns and cities,
Metro tickets signs). Always carry especially those popular with
in both cities are Stay on the pavement your valuables well visitors, have stands and shops
available from the at all costs out of sight. The best offering bikes and scooters for
same sources as bus times to walk are in rent. You can usually rent hourly
and tram tickets, and the cool of the or by the day, and you may have
from machines and morning, or in the to leave your passport with the
ticket offices in early evening, when shop as a deposit. Be very
underground you can join in the careful, however, if riding a bike
stations. Tickets in pre-dinner stroll in the busy traffic of the larger
Rome are valid for Marginally less dangerous known as the towns and cities.
100 minutes for one to cross passeggiata. BikeMi in Milan gives access
metro journey only, to bikes at various places in the
but can be used on any number city. The initial fee is €4.50 a day
of bus and tram journeys. One-, Taxis (€9 a week), which covers the
two-, three- and seven-day Only accept rides in official taxis. first 30 minutes of hire. Rates are
tickets are also available and Most drivers are honest, but there then 50 cents for 30 minutes,
offer unlimited metro, bus and are many supplements that can rising to €2 per hour after the
tram travel. In Milan, by contrast, be legitimately levied. Generally first 2 hours. You can register by
ordinary metro tickets are valid an extra charge is made for each phone (02 48 60 76 07) or via
for 90 minutes for one metro piece of luggage placed in the the website (www.bikemi.it).
journey and can also be used
on the buses and trams.
Inter-City Transport: Coaches
Walking Long-haul buses areas may be run by
several com panies
(pullman or corriere)
Walking can be a wonderful between towns (notably around
way to explore Italy’s historic operate in a similar Florence and in
towns and cities, most of whose way to local buses, Tuscany), and not all
historic centres are smaller than though you can operate from the same
you might expect. Traffic can be usually buy tickets on termini. Services often
a curse, however, especially in board, and services depart from outside
railway stations, or
narrow streets (Rome is worst in are often run by Rome–Gubbio bus from a town’s main
different companies in
this respect), but many cities are different-coloured buses piazza. If in doubt, ask at
introducing pedestrianized (blue is the most common local tour ist offices. A reduced
areas or cutting down on car colour for pullman, orange for service may operate at
access around key tourist sights. city buses). Coaches in some weekends, when offices are shut.
On certain Sundays (domenica a
piedi), entire town centres may Rome Tuscany National &
be designated traffic-free zones. COTRAL Sita International
Italian towns have plenty of Tel 800 17 44 71 Tel 800 37 37 60. Eurolines
shady squares and cafés to or 06 72 05 72 05. ∑ sitabus.it Tel 0861 199 19 00.
escape the heat of the summer ∑ cotralspa.it Tra-In ∑ eurolines.it
sun, and churches and cathedrals
also provide cool retreats from Tel 0577 20 41 11.
the rigours of sightseeing. Most ∑ trainspa.it
sights are well signposted


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634  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travelling Around Venice

For visitors to Venice, the vaporetti or waterbuses (see pp140–41)
provide an entertaining form of public transport, although
most journeys within the city can usually be covered more
quickly on foot. The main route through the city for the
vaporetti is the Grand Canal. Waterbuses also supply a useful
service connecting outlying points on the periphery of
Venice, and linking the city to the islands in the lagoon.
The most important service from a visitor’s point of view is
the No. 1. This operates from one end of the Grand Canal to Vaporetto stop at the Giardini
the other and travels slowly enough for you to admire the Pubblici, Venice
parade of palaces at the waterside (see pp92–5).
Hours of Service
The main routes run every 10
to 20 minutes until the early
evening. Services are reduced
after midnight, but they run all
night. From June to September
A vaporetto or waterbus the services are more frequent
and certain routes are extended.
Time tables are available at
main landing stages. Be warned:
from May to September the
main routes and island boats
are very crowded.
The smaller, sleeker motoscafo
Vaporetto Information
The Boats the time of purchase. A good ACTV (Venezia Unica office) Piazzale
The original vaporetti were way to save money, however, is Roma, Venice. Map 5 B1. Tel 041 24 24.
steam-powered (vaporetto by buying a travel card, which ∑ actv.it
means “little steamer”); today is available in one-, two- and
they are mostly diesel-run three-day variants. Such a card
motorboats, with a handful entitles the holder to unlimited Traghetti
of electric, battery-powered travel on most lines. A single Traghetti are gondola ferries that
prototypes. Although all or return journey supplement cross the Grand Canal at seven
the boats tend to be called to/from Marco Polo airport different points, providing a
vaporetti, the word only really can also be added to the useful service for pedestrians.
applies to the large, wide boats price of the card (see www. Few tourists make use of this
that are used on slow routes, veneziaunica.it). cheap (about €2 per trip),
such as No. 1. These boats If you are staying more than constant service. Points where
provide the best views. a few days, it is worth buying traghetti cross the Grand Canal
Motoscafi are the slimmer, a weekly season ticket are marked on the Street Finder
smaller boats that look old (abbonamento), available from maps (see pp130–39). A gondola
but actually go at a fair pace, ticket offices, though non- on yellow street signs points to
while motonavi are the two- residents are charged €60 for traghetti stops.
tier boats that run to the the privilege.
islands. To visit the islands of Holders of Rolling
Murano, Burano or Torcello, Venice cards (with
take the LN Line, which information packs
departs from San Zaccaria and discounts for
and Fondamenta Nuove. six- to 29-year-olds)
can buy a three-day
youth pass. Tickets
Types of Tickets include transport
If booths at landing stages for one piece of
are closed, single tickets can luggage, so be
be purchased on board at prepared to buy
no extra charge – the tickets another ticket
are valid for 75 minutes from for extra items. A two-tier motonave boat




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TR A VEL INFORM A TION  635

Gondolas Water Taxis
Gondolas are a luxury form of For those with little time and
transport used only by visitors sufficient funds, the fastest and
and Venetians at weddings. most practical means of getting
Before boarding, check the from A to B in Venice is by water
official tariffs and agree a price taxi. The craft are sleek, white or
with the gondolier. Official costs polished wood motorboats, and
are around €80 for 40 minutes, all are equipped with a cabin.
rising to €100 after 7pm. During They zip efficiently to and
the low season, you may also be from the airport in only 20 A waterbus gliding past the Palazzo
able to negotiate a lower fee, minutes. There are 16 water-taxi Ducale, on Venice’s Grand Canal
and a journey shorter than the ranks, including one at the
usual 40 minutes. airport and one at the Lido. Beware of extra charges for
transporting luggage, waiting,
night service and for calling out
a taxi. When the vaporetti go on
strike, taxis are scarce.

Water-Taxi Stands
Radio Taxi (all of Venice)
Tel 041 522 23 03.
Piazzale Roma
A motor boat on a canal in Venice Map 5 B1. Tel 041 71 69 22.
The Main Routes
Using the Vaporetti
Route 1 This is the slow boat
down the Grand Canal, Tickets are available at most
stopping at every landing stage. 1landing stages, some bars, shops
The route starts at Piazzale and tobacconists displaying the
Roma, travels the length of the ACTV sign. It is also possible to buy
them on board. The price of a ticket
Grand Canal, then from San remains the same whether you are
Marco it heads east to the Lido. going one stop or travelling the
whole line.
Route 2 The 2 is the faster route
down the Grand Canal. With
an extension to the Lido during
the summer months, the
Signs on the landing stage tell you the
route serves San Zaccaria, 2direction of the boats stopping there.
continuing westwards along
the Giudecca Canal to Imob electronic chip tickets are in use
Tronchetto and Piazzale Roma, 3and should be validated before each
then down the Grand Canal journey at the electronic machines on
back to San Zaccaria. the landing stages. Inspectors rarely
board the boats and this makes it
Routes 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2 and 6 surprisingly easy to hop on and off
These lines all sail around the the boats without a validated ticket.
central islands. The circular However, there are steep fines for any
Giracittà routes 4.1-4.2 provide a passengers caught without tickets.
scenic tour of Venice and
Murano, while lines 5.1-5.2 and
6 also extend to the Lido.
Routes 12, 14 The 12 departs An indicator board at the front of each boat gives the line
from the Fondamenta Nuove 4number and main stops (ignore the black numbers on
and runs to the main islands the boat’s side).
in the northern lagoon – Each landing stage has its name clearly marked on a board.
Murano, Mazzorbo and Burano 5Most stops have two landing stages and it is quite easy,
(with a connection to Torcello) – particularly if it is crowded and you can’t see which way the
then calls at Punta Sabbioni. boat is facing, to board a boat travelling in the wrong direction.
The 14 takes you to the Lido, It is helpful to watch which direction the boat is approaching
before concluding at from; if in doubt, check with the boatman.
San Zaccaria.




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636  GENER AL INDEX

General Index


Page numbers in bold refer to Alberti, Leon Battista (cont.) The Ancient Centre (Rome) (cont.)
main entries. Santa Maria Novella (Florence) hotels 573
300 map 387
A Tempio Malatestiano (Rimini) restaurants 596
Abano Terme 163 257, 270 Ancona 376–7
Abbadia di San Salvatore, festivals Alemagna, Emilio 199 hotels 572
73 Alemanno 377 restaurants 595
Abbazia (Abbeys) see Monasteries Alessandria 59 Ando, Tadao 109
and convents hotels 567 Angel Delivering St Peter from Prison
Abruzzo 505, 508–11 restaurants 586 (Raphael) 32
climate 77 Alessi 42 Angelico, Beato 227
food 481 Alexander VI, Pope 405, 424, 427, Angelico, Fra 31, 329, 333, 336, 357
hotels 577 431 Annunciation 278
map 506–7 Alexander VII, Pope 404, 422 Duomo (Orvieto) 363
Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio Alexander Severus, Emperor 390 Lamentation over Christ 280
e Molise 510–11 Alfieri, Vittorio 232 The Mocking of Christ 280
restaurants 602–3 Alfonso of Aragon 60, 496 tomb 408
Abyssinia 68 Alghero 550, 552–3 Vatican Museums (Rome) 427
Acaia family 223 hotels 577 Virgin Enthroned with the Child 36
Accademia (Venice) 13, 94, 110– restaurants 605 Angels in Armour (Guariento) 162
11 Alinari brothers 301 Angevins 47, 57, 493, 496
Accessories shops 128, 129, 200, Allegory of Good Government Anguillara 470
201 (Lorenzetti) 344 Annigoni, Pietro 298
Accidents, road 631 Alpe Cermis 177 Annunciation (Fra Angelico) 278
Achradina (Siracusa) 546 Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) 176 The Annunciation (Ghirlandaio) 348
Acquario Marino (Trieste) 169 Alpe Tognola 177 The Annunciation (Leonardo da
Acqui Terme Alps 215, 218 Vinci) 293
hotels 567 road tunnels and passes 626 Annunciation (Martini) 290
restaurants 586 Alstulf, King of the Lombards 55 Annunciation (Pinturicchio) 366
Actium, Battle of 51 Alta Val Susa 222 The Annunciation (Pontormo) 308
Admission charges 615 Altemps, Cardinal Marco Sittico Antelami, Benedetto 232, 262, 263
Adoration of the Magi (Pinturicchio) 404 Anthony of Padua, St 162
427 Altichiero da Zevio 162, 163 Antique shops 309, 310, 607
Aeolian Islands 537 Alto Adige 80 Antonelli, Alessandro 189, 228,
Aeschylus 484 Alunno, Niccolò 365 231
Agnes, St 403, 445 Amadeo, Giovanni Antonio 208 Antonello da Messina 225, 539,
Agnolo, Baccio d’ 285 Amalfi 15, 486, 501 542
Agriculture 27 festivals 71 Vergine Annunziata 533
Agrigento 10, 15, 478, 484, 539–40 restaurants 600 Aosta 219
festivals 73 Amalfi Coast 10, 15, 487, 489, 501 festivals 73
hotels 577 hotels 576 hotels 567
restaurants 604 Amati, Andrea 210 restaurants 586–7
Agrippa 408, 415 Amato, Antonino 543 Apartments (Ostia Antica) 471
Agriturismo 560, 561 Amatrice, Cola dell’ 377, 508 Aperitivo 609
Agropoli 502 Ambrose, St 168, 204 Apollo Belvedere (statue) 425,
Aguillara, Rodolfo 433 Amici della Musica (Florence) 72 426
Aiello, Matteo d’ 533 Ammannati, Bartolomeo 162, 298, Apollo and Daphne (Bernini) 443
Air sports 611 444 Apollodorus of Damascus 392
Air travel 624–5 Ampezzo 166 Aprica, hotels 565
Aix-la-Chapelle, Treaty of 64 Amphitheatres Aquarium (Genoa) 241
Alaric, King of the Visigoths 54 Anfiteatro Romano (Lucca) 326 Aqueducts 50
Alatri 474 Arena (Verona) 53, 80, 143, 146, Aquileia 81, 168
Alba 186 147 Ara Pacis (Rome) 414
festivals 72 Cagliari 555 Ara della Regina (Tarquinia) 48
hotels 567 Lecce 517 Aracoeli Steps (Rome) 388
restaurants 586 Lucera 512 Aragonese 47, 58, 60, 496, 552
Albegna 239 Santa Maria Capua Vetere 500 Arborea 554, 555
Alberghi 558 Spoleto 364 Archaeological digs 610, 611
Alberobello 504, 515 Venosa 522 Archaeological Zone (Metaponto)
hotels 577 Anagni 474 523
restaurants 602 The Ancient Centre (Rome) Arches, triumphal 34
Alberti, Leon Battista 35, 60, 211, 386–99 Arch of Augustus (Aosta)
438 Capitoline Hill street-by-street 53, 219
Palazzo Rucellai (Florence) 301 388–9 Arch of Augustus (Susa) 222





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GENER AL INDEX  637





Arches, triumphal (cont.) Asolo 153 Balzi Rossi 238
Arch of Constantine (Rome) 384, hotels 563 Banco, Nanni di 31
393 restaurants 581 Bandinelli, Baccio 284
Arch of Janus (Rome) 436 Aspertini, Amico 325 Banditry 519
Arch of Septimus Severus 394, Aspromonte mountains 519 Banking 620
396 Aspurucci, Antonis 442 Baptistries
Arch of Titus (Rome) 395 Assisi 251, 358–61 Albegna 239
Arch of Trajan (Benevento) 500 festivals 72 Asti 232
Arco d’Agosto (Fano) 373 hotels 572 Basilica di San Marco (Venice)
Arco di Druso (Spoleto) 364 restaurants 594 117
Arco di Traiano (Ancona) 376 Assumption of the Virgin Battistero degli Ariani (Ravenna)
Archimedes 45, 50, 485, 546 (Correggio) 33 273
Architecture 34–5 Assumption of the Virgin (Titian) Battistero Neoniano (Ravenna)
Central Italy 256–7 102 272
fascist 446 Asti 214, 232–3 Florence 13, 282, 284, 286
Northwest Italy 188–9 festivals 72 Novara 231
Romanesque Churches in restaurants 587 Padua 158, 159
Umbria 364–5 Athletics 75 Parma 263
Rome and Lazio 384–5 ATMs 620 Pisa 328
Southern Italy 482–3 Atrani 501 San Giovanni in Laterano (Rome)
Venice and the Veneto 84–5 Atri 508 440
Arco, restaurants 581 Attila, King of the Huns 127 Siena 342
Ardara 522 Auditorium Parco della Musica Barbarigo, Antonio 163
Area Sacra di Largo Argentina Season (Rome) 72 Barbera d’Alba 186
(Rome) 407 Aue, Hartmann von 175 Barberini, Maffeo see Urban VIII,
Arena (Verona) 53, 80, 143, 146, Augustine, St 207 Pope
147 Augustus, Emperor 51, 52, 53 Barbiano di Belgiojoso, Count
Arezzo 333–5 Aosta 219 Ludovico 198
festivals 72 Aquileia 168 Bardolino 152
hotels 570 Ara Pacis (Rome) 414 Bardonecchia 222
restaurants 592 bust of (Verona) 149 Barga 322
Ariosto, Ludovico 259, 265 Forum of Augustus (Rome) 393 Bargello (Florence) 13, 55, 283, 287
Armani, Giorgio 43 House of Augustus (Rome) 398, Bari 514
Arno, River 275, 308, 329 399 festivals 70
floods 69, 275, 287, 288, 300 Mausoleum of Augustus (Rome) hotels 577
Arona 195 414 restaurants 602
hotels 567 statues of 416, 426 Barisano da Trani 501, 513, 534
restaurants 587 Susa 222 Barocci, Federico 375, 443
Arpino 474 Via Appia Antica (Rome) 445 Barolo 186, 187, 215
Arpino, Cavalier d’ 508 Aurelian, Emperor 421 Baroque
Arquà Petrarca 163 Austria 47, 64–8 art and architecture 35, 62–3,
Ars Perfecta style 40 Autodromo (Monza) 205 84–5, 385, 482–3
Arsenale (Venice) 124 Autumn 72 music 40–41
Art Aventine and Lateran (Rome) Bars and clubs, Rome 450
Fresco technique 31 434–41 Bartolini, Lorenzo 279
High Renaissance 32–3 map 435 Bartolo, Giovanni di 147
Medieval and Early Renaissance Piazza della Bocca della Verità Bartolo, Taddeo di 337, 338, 344,
30–31 street-by-street 436–7 349
Saints and Symbols in Italian Art Avenzo, Jacopo 163 Bartolo di Fredi, Christ 349
36–7 Avigliana 223 Bartolomeo, Fra 327
Symbolism in Early Christian Art Avignon papacy 58, 59 Bartolomeo, Maso di 374
168–9 Barumini 478, 553
Art galleries see Museums and B Barzaghi, Francesco 199
galleries Babington’s Tea Rooms (Rome) Basilica, see also Churches
Art Nouveau 323, 324, 325 412 Basilica (Paestum) 503
Art shops (Florence) 309, 310 Bacanal del Gnoco (Verona) 73 Basilica (Tindari) 542
Artemide 43 Bacchus (Caravaggio) 290 Basilica Aemilia (Rome) 394, 396
Artimino 332 Bacchus (Michelangelo) 287 Basilica of Constantine and
restaurants 593 Baceno 230 Maxentius (Rome) 395, 396
Artisan businesses 27 Badia a Passignano 255 Basilica Julia (Rome) 394, 396
The arts 27–8 Bagheria 536 Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi)
Ascoli Piceno 368, 369, 370, 377 Bagni di Lucca 323 251, 358–9, 360–61
hotels 572 Baia Sardinia 552 Basilica di San Marco (Venice) 13,
restaurants 596 Ballet 449, 450, 608, 609 81, 113, 114–17





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638  GENER AL INDEX


Basilica di San Marco (Venice) Bernard, St 218 Bolzano (Bozen) 176
(cont.) Bernardino of Siena, St 210, 356, festivals 70, 72
architecture 34, 84 508 hotels 564
building of 115 Bernini, Gian Lorenzo 35, 93, 408, restaurants 583
history 55, 57 409 Bomarzo 469
mosaics 114, 116 Apollo and Daphne 443 Bon, Bartolomeo 102, 104, 105,
Basilicata 518–19, 522–3 Ecstasy of Beata Ludovica 121, 123
climate 77 Albertoni 433 Bon family 107
food 481 The Ecstasy of St Theresa 63, Bonaparte, Joseph 65
history 519 416 Bonaparte, Napoleon see
hotels 577 Elephant (Rome) 385, 406, 408 Napoleon I, Emperor
map 520–21 Fontana del Moro (Rome) 403 Bonaparte, Pauline 443
restaurants 603–4 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi Boniface VIII, Pope 440, 474
Bassano, Jacopo 199 (Rome) 380, 403 Bonitate, Pietro da 533
Bassano del Grappa 142, 153 Medusa 391 Bonnano da Pisa 535
restaurants 581 Palazzo Barberini 415 Book shops 129, 200–201, 309–10,
Baths (Venosa) 522 Rape of Proserpina 443 447–8
Baths of Caracalla (Rome) 53, 441 St Peter’s (Rome) 422 Bordone, Paris 33
Battistero see Baptistries Santa Maria del Popolo (Rome) Borghese, Prince Camillo 443
Baunei 554 414 Borghese, Pauline 65
Baveno, hotels 567 Sant’Andrea delle Fratte (Rome) Borghese, Cardinal Scipione 442,
Bed and breakfast 560 413 443
La Befana 73 Sant’Andrea al Quirinale (Rome) Borgia, Lucrezia 265
Before the Proconsul (Filippino 415 Borgo Medioevale (Turin) 227
Lippi) 303 Bernini, Pietro 442 Borgo San Martino, festivals 71
Belisarius 54 Berruguete, Pedro, Duke Federico Borgomaggiore 372
Bellagio 14, 194 375 Bormio 206
hotels 565 Berry, Duc de 225 hotels 565
restaurants 584 Bessarion, Cardinal 61 restaurants 584
Bellini, Gentile 98 Bevagna 365, 366 Borromean Islands (Lago di
Bellini, Giovanni 32, 98, 99, 111, Bialetti 42 Maggiore) 195
227 Bianco, Bartolomeo 242 Borromeo, Cardinal Federico 199
Coronation of the Virgin 372 Biblioteca Estense (Modena) 264 Borromeo, Cardinal San Carlo 195,
Madonna and Child 103 Bicheri, Cardinal Guala 232 230
Madonna and Child between St Biennale (Venice) 71 Borromeo family 195
John the Baptist and a Saint 110 Binello, Maestro 366 Borromini
Madonna and Child with Four Bird-watching 610, 611 Francesco 63, 402, 403, 405, 412
Saints 37, 123 The Birth of Venus (Botticelli) 291 Palazzo Barberini 415
Pietà 112, 427 The Birth of the Virgin (del Sarto) San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane
Polyptych 122 281 (Rome) 415
Santa Corona (Vicenza) 156 Bizzaccheri, Carlo 436 San Giovanni in Laterano (Rome)
Bellini, Vincenzo 41, 543 Black Death 59 440
Belluno 165 Black Madonna (Santuario Bosa 553
restaurants 581 d’Oropa) 230 restaurants 605
Bembo, Cardinal Pietro 153 Black Madonna (Tindari) 542 Bosco della Mesola 271
Benavides, Marco 162 Blessed Agostino Novello (Martini) Bossea Caves 233
Benedetto da Maiano 297, 300, 345 Botta, Mario 179
493 Boats Botticelli, Sandro 32, 199, 227, 262,
Benedict, St 366, 473 arriving by 626 497
Benedict XI, Pope 357 Venice 634–5 The Birth of Venus 291, 293
Benedict XVI, Pope 69 Boboli Gardens (Florence) 13, 257, Galleria dell’Accademia
Beneventano, Oderisio da 513 307 (Florence) 279
Benevento 500–501 Bocca della Verità (Rome) 436, 438 Primavera 292, 293
restaurants 600 Boccaccio, Giovanni 38, 40, 345, Sistine Chapel (Rome) 430
Benigni, Roberto 69 492 Studiolo (Palazzo Ducale, Urbino)
Bentivoglio, Annibale 267 Boccanegra, Doge Simone 58 375
Bentivoglio, Anton Galeazzo 267 Boccioni, Umberto 199 Bourbons, House of 66, 487
Bentivoglio family 259 Unique Forms of Continuity in Bra, restaurants 587
Bergamo 188, 189, 205 Space 68 Bracciano 470
hotels 565 Bodoni, Giambattista 43 hotels 575
restaurants 584 Boëthius 207 restaurants 599
Bergognone, Ambrogio 199, 207 Bologna 11, 16, 266–9 Bramante, Donato d’Angelo 204,
Certosa di Pavia 208, 209 history 51 256, 377, 432
Berio, Luciano 41 hotels 569 Santa Maria della Pace (Rome)
Berlinghieri, Bonaventura 30 restaurants 590–91 402, 404
Berlioz, Hector 413 street-by-street 266–7 Santa Maria del Popolo (Rome)
Berlusconi, Silvio 28–9, 69 Bolsena 469 414





636-666_EW_Italy.indd 638 4/5/17 9:32 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  639


Bramante, Donato d’Angelo (cont.) Byron, Lord 64, 94 Campo Formio, Treaty of 65
Tempietto (Rome) 35, 433 Byzantine architecture 84, 482–3 Campo dei Miracoli (Pisa) 328
Brancaccio, Cardinal Rinaldo 492 Byzantine Empire 54–5, 259 Campo Santa Margherita (Venice)
Branciforte, Giuseppe, Prince of 106
Butera 536 C Camposanto (Pisa) 328
Brancusi, Constantin, Maiastra 109 Ca’ see Palaces Canaletto 107, 111
Brandi, Giacinto, Fall of the Rebel Caccini, Giovanni 305 Canazei 176–7
Angels 46 Caecus, Appius Claudius 445 Cannaregio (Venice)
Breakdowns 631 Caesar, Julius 39, 50, 51 hotels 562
Breakfast, in hotels 559 assassination 393, 407 restaurants 580
Brenner Pass 143, 179 Forum of Caesar (Rome) 393 Cannigione 552
Brenta Canal 85, 164 Caetani family 474 Cannobio 195
Brescia 207 Caffè Florian (Venice) 13 hotels 567
hotels 565 Caffé Greco (Rome) 412 restaurants 587
restaurants 584 Caffè Pedrocchi (Padua) 159 Canoeing 611
Bressanone (Brixen) 172, 175 Cagliari 555 Canova, Antonio 121, 199, 492
hotels 564 festivals 70 bronze statue of Napoleon 202
restaurants 583 hotels 577 Museo e Galleria Borghese 443
Breuil-Cervinia 218 restaurants 605 tomb 65, 103
restaurants 587 Cagliostro, Conte di 372 Venus 65, 306
Bridge of Sighs (Venice) 113 Caius Cestius, Pyramid of (Rome) Cantù, restaurants 584
Briosco, Andrea (“Il Riccio”) 98, 162 441 Capitol (Ostia Antica) 471
British School at Rome 442 Cala Gonone 554 Capitol (Rome) 387, 388
Broletto (Novara) 231 restaurants 605 Capitoline Hill (Rome), street-by-
Broletto (Pavia) 207 Cala Luna 554 street 388–9
Bronzino, Agnolo 227, 293, 295 Cala Sisine 554 Capitoline Museums (Rome) 12,
The Martyrdom of St Lawrence Calabria 519, 524–5 381, 388, 390–91
299 climate 77 Capo Schisò 542
Portrait of Lucrezia Panciatichi 33 food 481 Capo Tindari 544–5
Browning, Pen 94, 107 history 519 Capodanno 73
Browning, Robert 94, 107, 153 hotels 577 Caporetto, Battle of 68
Brunelleschi, Filippo 25, 35, 60, 61 map 520–21 Cappellini, Giulio 42
Cappella de’Pazzi (Santa Croce, restaurants 603–4 Cappello, Bianca 304
Florence) 288 Calcio Fiorentino 74 Caprarola 384, 385, 465, 469
Duomo (Florence) 257, 284, 285 Calcio Storico (Florence) 71 Capri 10, 15, 502–3
Duomo (Pistoia) 331 Caldaro, restaurants 583 hotels 576
Palazzo Pitti (Florence) 306 Caligula, Emperor 52 restaurants 600
Sacrifice of Isaac 287 The Calling of St Matthew Capri (town) 503
San Lorenzo (Florence) 298, 299 (Caravaggio) 404 Car hire 631
Santo Spirito (Florence) 304, 305 Callisto, Patriarch 167 Caracalla, Emperor 441
Spedale degli Innocenti Callixtus I, Pope 432 Caravaggio, Michelangelo Merisi
(Florence) 279, 281 Cambio, Arnolfo di 283, 346, 422, da 403, 405, 408, 415, 542
Brunello di Montalcino 254, 255, 433 Bacchus 290
337 Camera di Correggio (Parma) 263 The Calling of St Matthew 404
Bruni, Leonardo 288 Camera degli Sposi (Palazzo Fruit Basket 199
Brunico (Bruneck) 175 Ducale, Mantua) 211 Galleria Borghese (Rome) 443
restaurants 583 Camogli 244 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica
Bruno, Giordano 62, 405 hotels 568 (Rome) 432
Brusazorzi, Domenico 156 restaurants 589 Gallerie Regionale di Palazzo
Brustolon, Andrea 107 Camorra 487, 496 Bellomo (Siracusa) 546
Brutus 393, 407 Camosciara 511 Oratorio di San Lorenzo
Brydone, Patrick 536 Camp sites 560–61 (Palermo) 533
Budget accommodation 560, 561 Campana dei Caduti (Rovereto) Palazzo Pitti (Florence) 306
Buontalenti, Bernardo 293, 298, 179 St John the Baptist 391
305, 332 Campanella, Tommaso 524 Santa Maria del Popolo (Rome)
Burano (Venice) 13, 89, 125 Campania 486–503 414
restaurants 580 climate 77 Uffizi (Florence) 293
Bureaux de change 620 food 480 Vatican Museums (Rome) 427
Bus travel history 487 Carbonari 66
arriving by bus 627 hotels 576 Carignano family 227
in cities 632 map 488–9 Carlo Alberto II of Savoy 230
inter-city 633 restaurants 600–601 Carlo Alberto of Savoy 226
Rome: useful routes see inside A Week in Southern Italy 10, 15 Carloforte 549
back cover see also Naples Carnelivari, Matteo 533
Buscetta, Tommaso 539 Campanile (Duomo, Florence) 284 Carnevale 64, 73
Buscheto 328 Campanile (Venice) 113, 121 Carnic Alps 143, 166
Bussana Vecchia 238–9 Campo de’ Fiori (Rome) 405 Carpaccio, Vittore 98, 111, 293





636-666_EW_Italy.indd 639 4/5/17 9:32 AM

640  GENER AL INDEX


Carpaccio, Vittore (cont.) Castelrotto, hotels 563 Castles and fortifications (cont.)
Healing of the Madman 111 Castiglione, Achille 42 Medieval Castles and Forts in
St Augustine 61 Castiglione Falletto 186 the Valle d’Aosta 218
St George Slaying the Dragon 124 Castiglione del Lago 357 Melfi castle 522
Young Man in a Red Hat 121 Castles and fortifications Montmayer 218
Carrà, Carlo 198 Aragonese Castle (Gaeta) 475 Otranto castle 517
Mother and Son 203 Aurelian Wall (Rome) 54 Ramparts (Lucca) 327
Carracci, Annibale 405 Bari castle 514 Rapallo castle 244
Carracci, Ludovico 263 Bastione San Remy (Cagliari) 555 Rocca (San Miniato) 332
Carrara 322 Castel Beseno 179 Rocca Albornoz (Spoleto) 365
Carretto, Ilaria del 326 Castel Capuana (Naples) 490 Rocca Maggiore (Assisi) 359
Cars Castel Coira (Sluderno) 174 Rocca Viscontea (Castell’Arquato)
arriving by car 626 Castel Dante (Rovereto) 179 262
travelling around 630–31 Castel del Monte 57, 513 St Pierre castle (Valle d’Aosta) 217
Carso 167 Castel Nuovo (Naples) 496 Sarre 218
Carthaginians 50–51, 357, 538 Castel dell’Ovo (Naples) 497 Taranto castle 515
Casa di Cima (Conegliano) 165 Castel Sant’Angelo (Rome) 421 Torri Montanara (Lanciano) 511
Casa dei Crescenzi (Rome) 436 Castel Sant’Elmo (Naples) 496 Trani castle 513
Casa di Dante (Florence) 283 Castel Tirolo 174 Ussel 217
Casa Doria (Alghero) 553 Castel Trauttmansdorff 174 Venosa castle 522
Casa di Eleonora (Oristano) 554 Castellina (Norcia) 367 Verrès 218
Casa del Giorgione (Castelfranco Castello di Avio 179 see also Torre
Veneto) 153 Castello di Aymavilles 220 Catacombs
Casa di Giulietta (Verona) 149 Castello del Buonconsiglio Catacombs of San Gaudioso
Casa dei Mercanti (Verona) 148 (Trento) 178 (Naples) 497
Casa Natale di Puccini (Lucca) 324, Castello Caetani (Sermoneta) 474 Catacombs of San Gennaro
325 Castello di Casotto 233 (Naples) 497
Casa Natale di Raffaello (Urbino) Castello Estense (Ferrara) 265 San Callisto (Rome) 433, 445,
375 Castello di Fénis 188, 218, 219 446
Casa di Petrarca (Arquà Petrarca) Castello di Graines 218 San Sebastiano (Rome) 445, 446
163 Castello dell’Imperatore (Prato) Sant’Antioco 555
Casa Pigafetta (Vicenza) 155 57, 332 Catanei, Vannozza 405
Casa di Romeo (Verona) 149 Castello di Issogne 218 Catania 543
Casa Rossini (Pèsaro) 372–3 Castello di Lerici 245 restaurants 604
Casa Trampo (Tropea) 524 Castello di Lombardia (Enna) Cathedrals
Casa di Vasari (Arezzo) 333 541 Agrigento 539
Casale Monferrato, restaurants 587 Castello Maniace (Siracusa) 546 Alghero 552
Caserta 482, 500 Castello di Miramare (Grignano) Amalfi 501
hotels 576 169 Anagni (Santa Maria) 474
restaurants 600 Castello Orsini-Odescalchi Aosta 219
Caserta Vecchia 500 (Bracciano) 470 Arezzo 333
Cash machines 620 Castello Principesco (Merano) Ascoli Piceno 377
Casinos 174 Assisi (San Rufino) 359, 365
Bagni di Lucca 323 Castello di Rodengo 175 Asti 214, 233
Sanremo 238 Castello di San Giusto (Trieste) Atri 508
Casole d’Elsa 319 169 Bari 514
Casone Adimari (Lo Scheggia) 279 Castello di Serravalle (Bosa) 553 Belluno 165
Cassini, Gian Domenico 44, 268 Castello Sforzesco (Milan) 196 Benevento 500–501
Cassius 393, 407 Castello di Velturno 175 Bolzano 176
Castagno, Andrea del 123, 278, Castello di Venere (Erice) 537 Bosa 553
332 Castelvecchio (Verona) 146–7 Brescia 207
Castel Gandalfo 471 Castiglione del Lago castle 357 Bressanone 175
Castelfranco Veneto 153 Castle of Euryalus (Epipolae) 547 Cagliari 555
restaurants 581 Châtelard 218 Carrara 322
Castellammare di Stabia 499 Cittadella dei Musei (Cagliari) 555 Castelfranco Veneto 153
Castellamonte, Amedeo di 228 Cyclopean walls (Alatri/Arpino) Catania 543
Castell’Arquato 262 474 Cefalù 482, 539
restaurants 591 Dolceacqua castle 238 Chiusi 336
Castelli Romani 471 Fortezza (Montalcino) 337 Cividale del Friuli 167
restaurants 599 Fortezza dell’Albornoz (Urbino) Como 194, 195
wine festivals 72 375 Conegliano 154
Castello (Venice) Fortezza Medicea (Arezzo) 333 Cremona 210
hotels 562 Fortezza Medicea (Siena) 347 Enna 541
restaurants 580 Fortress (San Leo) 372 Erice 537
Castello district (Cagliari) 555 Lagopesole castle 522 Ferrara 265
Castelluccio 355, 366 Lecce castle 517 Fidenza 262
Castelnuovo di Garfagnana 322 Lucera castle 512 Fiesole 333





636-666_EW_Italy.indd 640 4/5/17 9:32 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  641


Cathedrals (cont.) Cathedrals (cont.) Cernobbio 194
Florence (Santa Maria del Fiore) Taranto 515 hotels 565
12, 35, 250, 257, 282, 284–5 Terracina 475 Certosa di Pavia 183, 189, 208–9
Gaeta 475 Todi 363, 365 Cerveteri 11, 17, 49, 380, 470
Genoa (San Lorenzo) 240, 241 Trani 513 hotels 575
Gerace 525 Trapani (San Lorenzo) 536 restaurants 599
Grado 168 Treiste (San Giusto) 169 Cervo 236, 239
Gubbio 356 Trento 178 restaurants 589
Lanciano 511 Treviso 164 Cesenatico 261, 270
L’Aquila 508 Troia 483, 512–13, 512–13 Chain hotels 558, 561
Lecce 516 Tropea 524 Chapels
Lucca (San Martino) 325, 326 Turin 224–5 Cappella Bardi (Santa Croce,
Lucera 512 Udine 166 Florence) 289
Mantua 211, 212–13 Urbino 375 Cappella Brancacci (Florence) 13,
Marsala 538 Venice (Basilica di San Marco) 13, 302–3
Massa Marittima 339 34, 55, 57, 84, 113, 114–17 Cappella Colleoni (Bergamo) 188,
Matera 523 Venosa 522 192, 205
Melfi 522 Vercelli (San Cristoforo) 232 Cappella del Corporale (Duomo,
Milan 183, 197 Verona 149 Orvieto) 362
Modena 264 Vicenza 154 Cappella dei Mascoli (Basilica di
Monreale 15, 34, 478, 482, 534–5 Viterbo 468 San Marco, Venice) 117
Montepulciano 337 Volterra 338 Cappella Nuova (Duomo,
Monza 188, 205 Catherine of Austria 492 Orvieto) 363
Naples (Cattedrale di Santa Maria Catherine of Siena, St 344, 345, Cappella Palatina (Palermo) 482,
Assunta) 491 408 530
Noto 547 Catholicism 29, 47 Cappella de’Pazzi (Santa Croce,
Novara 231 Catullus 399 Florence) 288
Oristano 554 Cavalese 177 Cappella dei Principi (San
Orvieto 34, 59, 362–3 Cavallini, Pietro 357, 380, 433, 446 Lorenzo, Florence) 298, 299
Otranto 517 Last Judgment 30 Cappella della Sacra Sindone
Padua 158, 159 Caves (Duomo, Turin) 62, 225
Palermo 529, 531 Bossea Caves 233 Cappella di San Martino (Basilica
Parma 263 Grotta Azzurra (Capri) 502 di San Francesco, Assisi) 359
Pavia 207 Grotta del Bue Marino (Sardinia) Cappella Sansevero (Naples) 491
Perugia 59, 356 554 Cappella degli Scrovegni (Padua)
Piacenza 262 Grotta del Gigante 169 81, 160–61
Piazza Armerina 541 Grotta di Nettuno (Sardinia) 553 Cappella Strozzi (Santa Maria
Pienza 256, 337 Grotta Verde (Sardinia) 553 Novella, Florence) 300
Pinerolo 223 Grotte di Castellana 515 Cappella del Tau (Pistoia) 331
Pisa 57, 328 Grotte di Frasassi 376 Cappella Tornabuoni (Santa
Pistoia (San Zeno) 331 Grotte di Toirano 239 Maria Novella, Florence) 301
Pitigliano 351 Sassi district (Matera) 522–3 Cappella Zen (Basilica di San
Pordenone 166 Cavour, Count Camillo 67, 227 Marco, Venice) 117
Prato 332 Cecilia, St 433 Cappelle Medicee (Florence) 298,
Ravello 501 Cefalù 24, 26, 526, 539 299
Rossano 524 restaurants 604 Cappellone degli Spagnuoli
Ruvo di Puglia 514 Celestine V, Pope 508 (Santa Maria Novella, Florence)
Salerno 502 Cellini, Benvenuto 287, 289, 405 300
San Giovanni in Laterano (Rome) Perseus 295 Pazzi Chapel (Santa Croce,
434, 440 Cembra 177 Florence) 256
San Leo 372 Cenacolo di Santo Spirito Sistine Chapel (Rome) 12, 61, 62,
San Michele (Albegna) 239 (Florence) 304 420, 428–30
San Miniato 332 Central Italy 248–377 Tempietto Longobardo (Cividale
Santa Giusta 554–5 architecture 256–7 del Friuli) 167
Santa Margherita Flavours of Central Italy Charlemagne 47, 55, 207
(Montefiascone) 469 252–3 Charles II of Naples 512
Santa Maria Assunta (Torcello) A Gourmet Tour of Central Italy Charles III of Spain 64, 482, 497
126–7 11, 16 Charles V, Emperor 61, 62,
Sassari 552 map 250–51 389, 517
Sermoneta 474 Wines of Central Italy 254–5 Charles VIII of France 61
Siena 35, 342, 346–7 see also Emilia-Romagna; Charles of Anjou 57, 496
Siracusa 483, 546 Florence; Lazio; Le Marche; Charles of Calabria 493
Spoleto 364 Rome; Tuscany; Umbria Cheese, Parmesan 263
Stilo 524 Ceramics 607 Cherubini, Luigi 278
Sulmona (San Panfilo) 509 Faenza 270 Chiaiolella (Procida) 503
Susa 222 Ceresole Reale 222 Chianti region
Taormina 542 Cermes, restaurants 583 festivals 72





636-666_EW_Italy.indd 641 4/5/17 9:32 AM

642  GENER AL INDEX


Chianti region (cont.) Churches (cont.) Churches (cont.)
wine 254, 255 Collegiata di San Secondo (Asti) San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane
Chigi, Agostino 414, 432 232 (Rome) 415
Children Crocifisso (Noto) 547 San Cassiano (Venice) 100
in hotels 559 Domine Quo Vadis (Rome) 445 San Cataldo (Erice) 537
in restaurants 579 Il Gesù (Palermo) 530 San Clemente (Rome) 12, 385,
travelling with 616 Gesù (Rome) 35, 385, 406, 407 438
Chioggia, restaurants 581 Gesù Nuovo (Naples) 493 San Damiano (Assisi) 359
Chiusa San Michele, restaurants Incoronata (Lodi) 207 San Domenico (Bologna) 266,
587 La Maddalena (Rome) 409 269
Chiusi 11, 17, 336 Madonna del Calcinaio (Cortona) San Domenico (Matera) 523
Christ (Bartolo di Fredi) 349 336 San Domenico (Noto) 547
Christ Handing the Keys to St Peter Madonna delle Lacrime (near San Domenico (Palermo) 532
(Perugino) 60 Trevi) 365 San Domenico (Perugia) 357
Christian Democrats 28, 68 Madonna dell’Orto (Venice) 98 San Domenico (Siena) 345
Christianity 26, 47, 54–5, 205 Madonna della Steccata (Parma) San Domenico Maggiore
Symbols in Early Christian art 263 (Naples) 493
168–9 La Magione (Palermo) 533 San Domenico Maggiore
Christina, Queen of Sweden 432, La Martorana (Palermo) 532 (Taranto) 515
444 Ognissanti (Florence) 301 San Donato (Genoa) 240
Christmas 73 Ognissanti (Trani) 513 San Fermo Maggiore (Verona)
Christmas Fair (Naples) 73 Oratorio dei Filippini (Rome) 402 147
Churches Oratorio dei Pellegrini (Assisi) 359 San Flaviano (Montefiascone)
dress code 616 Oratorio della Purità (Udine) 166 469
opening hours 615 Oratorio del Rosario di San San Fortunato (Montefalco) 365
Annunziata (Sulmona) 509 Domenico (Palermo) 532 San Fortunato (Todi) 363
Badia Fiesolana (Fiesole) 333 Oratorio del Rosario di Santa Zita San Francesco (Alghero) 552–3
Basilica (Aquileia) 81, 168 (Palermo) 533 San Francesco (Arezzo) 333,
Basilica di Monte Berico (Vicenza) Oratorio di San Bernardino 334–5
157 (Perugia) 356 San Francesco (Ascoli Piceno)
Basilica Paleocristiana (Trieste) Oratorio di San Giorgio (Padua) 377
169 163 San Francesco (Cortona) 336
Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi) Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista San Francesco (Enna) 541
251, 358–9, 360–61 (Urbino) 375 San Francesco (Gubbio) 356
Basilica di San Gaudenzio Oratorio di San Giuseppe San Francesco (Stilo) 524
(Novara) 231 (Urbino) 375 San Francesco (Susa) 222
Basilica di San Michele (Pavia) Oratorio di San Lorenzo San Francesco d’Assisi (Gerace)
207 (Palermo) 533 525
Basilica di San Nicola (Bari) 483, Oratorio di Santa Zita (Palermo) San Francesco d’Assisi (Matera)
514, 514 62–3, 482 523
Basilica and Santa Casa (Loreto) Oratorio di Sant’Agostinaccio San Francesco Borgia (Catania)
377 (Norcia) 367 543
Basilica di Santa Chiara (Assisi) Orsanmichele (Florence) 282, San Francesco di Paola (Naples)
359 287 497
Basilica di Sant’Andrea (Mantua) Panaghia (Rossano) 524 San Francesco a Ripa (Rome) 433
211 Pantheon (Rome) 408 San Francesco della Scarpa
Basilica di Sant’Andrea (Vercelli) Pieve (San Leo) 372 (Sulmona) 509
182, 232 Pieve di Santa Maria (Arezzo) San Frediano (Lucca) 325
Basilica di Sant’Antonio (Padua) 333 San Geremia (Venice) 92
57, 81, 162 Pio Monte della Misericordia San Giacomo Maggiore
Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato (Naples) 491 (Bologna) 267
(Venice) 125 Purgatorio (Matera) 523 San Giacomo dell’Orio (Venice)
Basilica di Superga (Turin) 229 Purgatorio (Trapani) 536 101
Cattolica (Stilo) 55, 524 rock-cut (chiesi rupestri) 523 San Giacomo di Rialto (Venice)
Chiesa del Collegio dei Gesuiti Sacro Monte (Orta San Giulio) 101
(Trapani) 536 231 San Giorgio (Modica) 547
Chiesa dei Domenicani (Bolzano) Sacro Monte (Varallo) 230 San Giorgio (Portofino) 244
176 St Peter’s (Rome) 12, 54, 380, 418, San Giorgio (Ragusa) 483
Chiesa degli Eremitani (Padua) 420, 422–3 San Giorgio in Velabro (Rome)
162 St Ulrich (Ortisei) 176 437
Chiesa Nuova (Rome) 402, St Ursula (Brunico) 175 San Giorgio in Braida (Verona)
404 San Benedetto (Catania) 543 149
Chiesa del Rosario (Lecce) 483, San Benedetto (Malles Venosta) San Giorgio Maggiore (Venice)
516 174 85, 124–5
Church of Gesù (Genoa) 241 San Benedetto (Norcia) 366–7 San Giovanello (Gerace)
Collegiata (San Gimignano) 348, San Bernardino (L’Aquila) 508 525
349 San Biagio (Lanciano) 511 San Giovanni Battista (Cervo) 239





636-666_EW_Italy.indd 642 4/5/17 9:32 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  643


Churches (cont.) Churches (cont.) Churches (cont.)
San Giovanni Battista (Erice) 537 San Pantalon (Venice) 105 Santa Lucia alla Badia (Siracusa)
San Giovanni Battista (Matera) San Paolo fuori le Mura (Rome) 546
523 446 Santa Lucia alle Malve (Matera)
San Giovanni in Bragora (Venice) San Petronio (Bologna) 266, 523
124 268–9 Santa Maria in Aracoeli (Rome)
San Giovanni Decollato (Rome) San Pietro (Assisi) 359 389
436 San Pietro (Perugia) 357 Santa Maria Assunta (Orta San
San Giovanni Elemosinario San Pietro (Portovenere) 245 Giulio) 231
(Venice) 100 San Pietro (Spoleto) 364, 365 Santa Maria dei Carmini (Venice)
San Giovanni degli Eremiti San Pietro (Tuscania) 468 106
(Palermo) 530 San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro (Pavia) Santa Maria del Carmione
San Giovanni Evangelista (Parma) 207 (Florence) 302
263 San Pietro in Consavia (Asti) 232 Santa Maria di Collemaggio
San Giovanni Fuoricivitas (Pistoia) San Pietro Extramuros (Bosa) 553 (L’Aquila) 508
331 San Pietro Martire (Ascoli Piceno) Santa Maria della Concezione
San Giovanni Grisostomo 377 (Rome) 415
(Venice) 99 San Pietro in Montorio (Rome) Santa Maria della Consolazione
San Giovanni in Laterano (Rome) 433 (Rome) 437
381 San Pietro in Vincoli (Rome) Santa Maria della Consolazione
San Giovanni a Mare (Gaeta) 475 416 (Todi) 256, 363
San Giovanni Theristis (Stilo) 524 San Placido (Catania) 543 Santa Maria in Cosmedin (Rome)
San Giovanni Vecchio (Stilo) 524 San Polo (Venice) 101 436, 438
San Giovenale (Orvieto) 362 San Ponziano (Spoleto) 364 Santa Maria in Domnica (Rome)
San Giuliano (Catania) 543 San Rocco (Venice) 105 438
San Giuseppe (Ragusa) 547 San Salvatore (Noto) 547 Santa Maria Forisportam (Lucca)
San Gregorio Armeno (Naples) San Salvatore (Spoleto) 364 327
492 San Satiro (Milan) 199 Santa Maria Formosa (Venice)
San Gregorio (Spoleto) 364 San Saturnino (Cagliari) 555 123
San Leonardo (Artimino) 332 San Sebastiano (Venice) 108 Santa Maria del Gesù (Trapani)
San Lorenzo (Florence) 298–9 San Sigismondo (Cremona) 210 536
San Lorenzo (Portovenere) 245 San Silvestre (Bevagna) 366 Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
San Lorenzo (Sansepolcro) 336 San Simeone Piccolo (Venice) 92 (Venice) 13, 65, 102–3
San Lorenzo (Spello) 366 San Stae (Venice) 93 Santa Maria delle Grazie (Grado)
San Lorenzo (Turin) 228 San Teodoro (Rome) 437 168
San Lorenzo (Verona) 147 San Vicenzo e Anastasio (Ascoli Santa Maria delle Grazie (Milan)
San Lorenzo (Vicenza) 157 Piceno) 377 204
San Lorenzo de’Arari (Orvieto) San Vitale (Ravenna) 54–5, 251, Santa Maria delle Grazie (Varallo)
362, 364 272 230
San Lorenzo Maggiore (Milan) San Zaccaria (Venice) 123 Santa Maria dei Greci (Agrigento)
204 San Zeno Maggiore (Verona) 539
San Lorenzo Maggiore (Naples) 150–51 Santa Maria di Idris (Matera) 523
492 Sanctuary of the Eucharistic Santa Maria dell’Isola (Tropea)
San Lorenzo in Miranda (Rome) Miracle (Lanciano) 511 524
394 Santa Barbara (Rivello) 523 Santa Maria Maddalena
San Luigi dei Francesi (Rome) Santa Caterina (Palermo) 531 (Castiglione del Lago) 357
403, 404 Santa Caterina d’Alessandria Santa Maria Maggiore (Lanciano)
San Marco (Jesi) 376 (Galatina) 517 511
San Marco (Rome) 388 Santa Cecilia in Trastevere Santa Maria Maggiore (Naples)
San Marco (Rossano) 524 (Rome) 433 488
San Marcuola (Venice) 92 Santa Chiara (Naples) 493 Santa Maria Maggiore (Rome) 55,
San Martino (Oristano) 554 Santa Chiara (Noto) 547 381, 417
San Martino (Trevi) 365 Santa Chiara (Oristano) 554 Santa Maria Maggiore (Spello)
San Maurizio (Pinerolo) 223 Santa Corona (Vicenza) 156 366
San Michele (Alghero) 553 Santa Costanza (Rome) 55, Santa Maria Maggiore (Tuscania)
San Michele (Bevagna) 365, 366 445 468
San Michele (Carmignano) 332 Santa Cristina (Turin) 227 Santa Maria sopra Minerva 400,
San Michele in Foro (Lucca) 324, Santa Croce (Florence) 13, 256, 408
325 288–9 Santa Maria dei Miracoli (Venice)
San Michele di Salvenero Santa Croce (Lecce) 479, 507, 99
(Sardinia) 552 517 Santa Maria Novella (Florence)
San Miniato al Monte (Florence) Santa Felìcita (Florence) 308 13, 35, 257, 300–301
308 Santa Fosca (Torcello) 126–7 Santa Maria della Pace (Rome)
San Niccolò (Catania) 543 Santa Francesca Romana (Rome) 402, 404
San Nicolò (Treviso) 164 395 Santa Maria di Paganica (L’Aquila)
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli Santa Giusta (L’Aquila) 508 508
(Venice) 108 Santa Lucia (Siracusa) 546–7 Santa Maria del Patirion 524





636-666_EW_Italy.indd 643 4/5/17 9:32 AM

644  GENER AL INDEX


Churches (cont.) Churches (cont.) Climbing 610, 611
Santa Maria della Piazza (Ancona) Sant’Ignazio di Loyola (Rome) Cllegio Cutelli (Catania) 543
376 406, 409 Clothes shops 606–7
Santa Maria del Poggio (Rivello) Sant’Illuminata (Montefalco) 365 Florence 309, 310
523 Santissima Annunziata (Florence) Milan 200, 201
Santa Maria del Popolo (Rome) 278, 281 Rome 447, 448
414 Santissima Annunziata dei Venice 128, 129
Santa Maria di Portonovo Catalani (Messina) 542 Clubs (Rome) 450
(Portonovo) 377 Santissima Trinità di Saccargia Coach travel
Santa Maria del Regno (Ardara) (Sardinia) 552 arriving by 627
522 Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza (Rome) inter-city 633
Santa Maria della Salute (Venice) 385, 403, 404 Cocullo 509
90, 95, 109 Santo Carcere (Catania) 543 festivals 70
Santa Maria di Siponto 512 Santo Spirito (Agrigento) 539 Coducci, Mauro 99, 121, 123
Santa Maria della Spina (Pisa) Santo Spirito (Florence) 304, 305 Cogne 220
329 Santo Stefano Rotondo (Rome) restaurants 587
Santa Maria in Trastevere (Rome) 438 Cola di Rienzo 59
380, 432–3 Santo Stefano (Venice) 121 Colfosco, hotels 563
Santa Maria della Valle (Scanno) Sant’Ombrono (Rome) 436 Colle del Gran San Bernardo 218
509 Sant’Orso (Aosta) 219 Collegio del Cambio (Perugia) 357
Santa Maria della Verità (Viterbo) Santuario di Maria Santissima Collegio di Propaganda Fide
468 Annunziata (Trapani) 536 (Rome) 412
Santa Maria della Vittoria (Rome) Santuario di Montallegro 244 Colleoni, Bartolomeo 205
416 Santuario d’Oropa (Biella) 230 statue of (Venice) 123
Santa Prassede (Rome) 416 Tempietto (Rome) 35, 384, 433 Collodi, Carlo 38
Santa Sabina (Rome) 441 Tempio Malatestiano (Rimini) Cologne, hotels 565
Santa Trìnita (Florence) 296 257, 270 Colonna, Vespasiano Gonzaga 210
Sant’Agata (Catania) 543 Tempio di San Biagio (near Colonna dell’Immacolata (Rome)
Sant’Agnese in Agone (Rome) Montepulciano) 337 412
403 Trinità dei Monti (Rome) 411, Colonna di Sant’Oronzo (Lecce)
Sant’Agnese fuori le Mura (Rome) 412, 413 517
445 see also Cathedrals; Churches Colonnata 322
Sant’Agostino (Genoa) 240, 242 Cicero 39, 51, 399, 474, 502 Colosseum (Rome) 10, 12, 53, 381,
Sant’Agostino (Montefalco) 365 Cilento 502 386, 397
Sant’Agostino (Norcia) 367 Cima da Conegliano 98, 124, 165 Columbus, Christopher 44, 242
Sant’Agostino (Pèsaro) 372 Cima della Rosetta 177 Column of Marcus Aurelius (Rome)
Sant’Agostino (San Gimignano) Cimabue 30, 328 409
349 Crucifixion 288 Comacchio 271
Sant’Alessandro (Fiesole) 333 St Francis 358 Communications 622–3
Sant’Ambrogio (Milan) 204 Cinema 28, 609 Como 51, 189, 194, 195
Sant’Anastasia (Verona) 148 film festivals 71, 72 hotels 565
Sant’Andrea (Genoa) 241 Italian Cinema since World War II restaurants 584
Sant’Andrea (Orvieto) 362 69 Condottieri 58
Sant’Andrea (Spello) 366 Rome 449, 450 Conegliano 165
Sant’Andrea della Valle (Rome) Cino da Pistoia 331 hotels 563
402 Cinque Terre 10, 13, 14, 245, 246–7 restaurants 582
Sant’Andrea delle Fratte (Rome) Cinque Torri (Dolomites) 86 Conero Peninsula 371, 377
413 Cipriani, Giuseppe 112 Conservation 27–8
Sant’Andrea al Quirinale (Rome) Cisiano 206 Conservatorio Rossini (Pèsaro) 373
385, 415 Cistercians 473 Constance of Aragon 531
Sant’Angelo a Nilo (Naples) 492 Città Vecchia (Taranto) 515 Constantia (daughter of
Sant’Anna e San Bartolomeo dei City states 47 Constantine) 445
Lombardi (Naples) 493 Cividale del Friuli 145, 167 Constantine the Great, Emperor
Sant’Ansano (Spoleto) 364 hotels 563 54, 168, 204, 205
Sant’Antioco Martire restaurants 582 Arch of Constantine (Rome) 393
(Sant’Antioco) 555 Civita di Bagnoregio 464 Basilica of Constantine (Rome)
Sant’Apollinare Nuovo (Ravenna) Civitali, Matteo 326, 327 396
55, 273 Clare, St 359 St Peter’s (Rome) 422
Sant’Apollonia (Florence) 278 Classical music 449, 450, 608, 609 San Giovanni in Laterano (Rome)
Sant’Aponal (Venice) 100 Claude Lorrain 408, 442 440
Sant’Eufemia (Spoleto) 364 Claudius, Emperor 52 Santa Costanza (Rome) 445
Santi Cosma e Damiano (Rome) Clement V, Pope 58 sculpture of 381, 391
395 Clement VII, Pope 62, 363, 408 Constantinople, Fall of 60
Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Venice) Clement X, Pope 413 Construction of Alessandria
122–3 Clement XII Corsini, Pope 440 (Spinello Aretino) 59
Santi Quattro Coronati (Rome) Cleopatra 51 Contarini, Marino 98
438 Climate 76–7, 614 Contemporary music 608, 609





636-666_EW_Italy.indd 644 4/5/17 9:32 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  645


Contrà Porti (Vicenza) 154, 155 Crime 618 Decumanus Maximus (Ostia
Contrade 345 Mafia 539 Antica) 471
Convents see Monasteries and Cristo degli Abissi 244 Deledda, Grazia 554
convents Crivelli, Carlo 377 Delitio, Andrea 508
Conversion chart 617 Madonna della Candeletta Della Rovere family 414
Cookery courses 610–11 203 Demeter 485, 541
Coppo di Marcovaldo 30 Crivelli, Taddeo 264 De’Santi, Giovanni 98
The Cordonata (Rome) 388, 389 Croce, Baldassare 468 Desenzano del Garda, hotels 565
Corelli, Arcangelo 41 Crocifissi, Simone dei 269 Design 29, 42–3
Corenno Plinio 190 Crodo 230 shops 200, 201
Cormons, restaurants 582 Cronaca (Simone del Pollaiuolo) Designer labels 200, 201, 300,
Cornaro, Queen Caterina 153 297, 305 447, 606–7
Corniglia 245 Crotone 485 D’Este, Alfonso I 265
Corno di Rosazzo, hotels 563 Crucifixion (Cimabue) 288 D’Este, Beatrice 208
Coronation of the Virgin (Bellini) 372 Crucifixion (Tintoretto) 104, 105 D’Este, Ercole I 265
Coronation of the Virgin (Torriti) 417 Crusades, Fourth 57 D’Este, Cardinal Ippolito 472
Coronation of the Virgin Cryptoporticus (Palatine, Rome) D’Este, Nicolò II 264
(Veneziano) 110, 111 399 D’Este, Nicolò III 265
Correggio, Antonio da 263, 293, Culture 27–8, 609 D’Este dynasty 259, 264, 265
443 courses 610–11 Dialectic (Veronese) 120
Assumption of the Virgin 33 Cuneo 233 Dialling codes 623
Camera di Correggio (Parma) restaurants 588 Diano Marina, festivals 71
263 The Curia (Rome) 394, 396 Dickens, Charles 413
Correr, Teodoro 121 Currency 620–21 Diocletian, Emperor 54, 372
Corruption 28, 29, 68, 69 Customs regulations 615, 617 Dionysius I of Syracuse 538
Corsa del Palio (Siena) see Palio Cycling 610 Dionysius II of Syracuse 485
Corte Capitaniato (Padua) 158 cycle hire in cities 633 Disabled travellers 616–17
Cortile della Pigna (Rome) 421 green travel 624 in hotels 561
Cortina d’Ampezzo 145, 165 races 74 in restaurants 579
hotels 563 Discobolus (sculpture) 390
restaurants 582 D Discounts
Cortona 320, 336 Daddi, Bernardo 287 admission charges 615
hotels 571 Daedalus 484, 539 air fares 625
restaurants 593 D’Alema, Massimo 28 boats (Venice) 634
Cosmati family 417, 438, 439, 468, D’Alemagna, Giovanni 123 designer outlets 200, 300, 447
474, 534 Danaë and the Shower of Gold public transport 632
Cossano Belbo, restaurants 587 (Titian) 497 rail fares 626, 628, 629
Cost of living 620 Dance 449, 450, 608, 609 students 616, 622
Costa, Lorenzo Dance of the Devils (Prizzi) 70 Distance chart 631
The Martyrdom of St Sebastian Tarantella 515 Diving 611
266 Dandolo, Doge Andrea 117 Doctors 619
The Triumph of Death 267 Dante 146, 259 Dolceacqua 238
Costa Paradiso 548 Biblioteca Estense (Modena) 264 festivals 73
Costa Smeralda 552 Cappella Strozzi (Florence) 300 Dolcetto 186
hotels 577 Casa di Dante (Florence) 283 The Dolomites 80, 86–7, 143,
restaurants 605 Divine Comedy 38, 146, 199, 264, 165, 176–7
Costigliole d’Asti, restaurants 587 300 Dolomiti Ski Jazz Festival (Val di
Costume shops (Venice) 128, 129 Duomo (Pistoia) 331 Fiemme) 70
Council of Trent 62, 178, 268 Inferno 58, 160, 179, 268, 338, 430 Domenichino 471, 491
Counter-Reformation 62–3, 385 Monteriggioni 338 Domes 34–5
Courmayeur 218 Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (Milan) Dominic, St 269
restaurants 588 199 Domitian, Emperor 395, 398,
A Court Scene (Mantegna) 8–9 Santa Maria di Portonovo 377 399, 403, 426
Couture, Thomas, Romans of the statue (Verona) 148 Domodossola 230
Decadence 399 Tomba di Dante (Ravenna) 273 restaurants 588
Crafts Dante Explaining the Divine Comedy Domus Augustana (Rome) 398,
Florence 43 (Michelino) 285 399
shops 607 Danti, Ignazio 424 Domus Flavia (Rome) 398, 399
Cranach, Lucas 293 D’Asciano, Corradino 43 Donà, Doge Leonardo 121
Craxi, Bettino 69 David (Donatello) 287 Donatello 31, 102, 288
Credit cards 620 David (Michelangelo) 274, 279, 294 Basilica di Sant’Antonio (Padua)
in hotels 559 David and Goliath (Titian) 33 162
in restaurants 579 De Chirico, Giorgio 198, 199 David 287
Cremona 210 De Sica, Vittorio 69 Duomo (Prato) 332
hotels 565 Dead Christ (Mantegna) 202 Duomo (Siena) 346
restaurants 584 Death of St Francis (Giotto) 289 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo
Crete Senesi 338 Debussy, Claude 413 (Pisa) 329





636-666_EW_Italy.indd 645 4/5/17 9:32 AM

646  GENER AL INDEX


Donatello (cont.) Eleanor of Aragon 533 F
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo Electrical adaptors 617 Fabric shops 128, 129
(Florence) 283 Eleonora of Arborea 554, 555 Faenza 270
Orsanmichele (Florence) 287 Email 622–3 restaurants 591
Palazzo Vecchio (Florence) 295 Emanuele Filiberto, Duke 215, 227 Fair of St Orsa (Aosta) 73
Piazza della Signoria (Florence) Embassies and consulates 618, 619 The Fall (Niccolò di Tommaso) 331
294 Emergency numbers 619 Fall of the Rebel Angels (Brandi) 46
St George 282, 287 Emigration 68 Fallopio, Gabriele 163
San Lorenzo (Florence) 298, 299 Emilia-Romagna 258–73 Family life 29
Sant’Angelo a Nilo 492 climate 76 Fano 371, 373
Statue of Gattamelata (Padua) food 252, 259 Fantiscritti 322
159, 162 A Gourmet Tour of Central Italy Fanzago, Cosimo 493, 496
Doni, Maddalena 375 11, 16 Farnese Bull (sculpture) 495
Donizetti, Gaetano 41, 191, 205 history 259 Farnese family 259, 263, 405, 469,
Doria, Andrea 235, 240 hotels 569–70 497
Doria, Brancaleone 555 map 260–61 Farnese Hercules (Glykon of Athens)
Doria family 238, 552, 553 restaurants 590–91 495
Dorsoduro (Venice) Enna 541 Fascism 47, 68
hotels 562 restaurants 604 architecture 446
restaurants 580 Entertainment 608–9 Fashion
street-by-street 106–7 Rome 449–50 Italian design 43
Doryphoros (Polyclitus) 426 Enthroned Christ with Madonna shops 200–201, 309–10, 447–8,
Dramatists 38–9 and Saints (Orcagna) 31 606–7
The Dream of Constantine (Piero Entry requirements 614 shows 73
della Francesca) 31 Epipolae 547 Fattori, Giovanni, The Palmieri
The Dream of Pope Innocent III Erasmus 432 Rotonda 307
(Giotto) 57 Erice 484, 537 Favignana 537
Dress code hotels 577 Feast in the House of Levi (Veronese)
places of worship 616 restaurants 604 111
restaurants 579 Eritrea 67 Federico II of Gonzaga 211
Driving licences 630 Ernst, Max 109 Fellini, Federico 68, 69
Drovetti, Bernardo 226 Estate Romana (Rome) 71 Feltre, festivals 71
Duccio, Agostino di 270, 356, 357 Etiquette 28, 616 La Fenice (Venice) 69
Duccio di Buoninsegna 58, 292, Etna, Mount see Mount Etna Ferdinand II of Sicily 66
339, 345 Etruscans 47, 48–9 Ferdinand IV of Sicily 533
Maestà 342, 347 architecture 34, 384 Fermi, Enrico 45
Rucellai Madonna 30 Cerveteri 380, 470 Ferrara 257, 259, 264–5
Dufourny, Léon 533 Etruscan Museum (Vatican) 424, hotels 569
The Duke and Duchess of Urbino 426 restaurants 591
(della Francesca) 291 Etruscan Walls (Fiesole) 333 Ferrari 42, 229, 264
Duke Federico (Berruguete) 375 Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca Ferrari, Defendente 223
Duomo see Cathedrals (Cortona) 336 Ferrari, Gaudenzio 230, 231, 232
Dürer, Albrecht 293, 405 Museo Archeologico Nazionale St Peter and a Donor 226
(Chiusi) 336 Ferrata, Ercole 402
E Museo Archeologico e Ferraù da Faenza 363
Ear of Dionysius (Siracusa) 547 Necropolo (Tarquinia) 470 Ferrero 215
Earthquakes Museo Etrusco (Pitigliano) 351 Ferretti, Dante 226
Assisi (1997) 69, 359 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci Ferri, Ciro 306
Messina (1908) 68 (Volterra) 338 Ferries 627
Sicily (1692) 63 Museo Etrusco-Romano (Todi) Festa degli Aquiloni (San Miniato)
Easter 70 363 70
Eco, Umberto 38 Museo Nazionale Etrusco (Rome) Festa dei Candelieri (Sassari) 71
Economy 25, 29 444 Festa dei Ceri (Gubbio) 70
Ecstasy of Beata Ludovica Albertoni Necropoli Etrusca – Crocefisso Festa d’o’Cippo di Sant’Antonio
(Bernini) 433 del Tufo (Orvieto) 363 (Naples) 73
The Ecstasy of St Cecilia (Raphael) Roman conquest 50 Festa della Fragola (Borgo San
269 Sovana 350 Martino) 71
The Ecstasy of St Theresa (Bernini) A Tour of Etruscan Italy 11, 17 Festa della Madonna che Scappa
63, 416 Eudoxia, Empress 416 in Piazza (Sulmona) 70
Edicola (Norcia) 367 Euganean Hills 143, 163 Festa della Madonna della Bruna
Edict of Milan 54, 205 Eugubine Tablets 356 (Matera) 71
Egadi Islands 537 EUR (Esposizione Universale di Festa della Madonna di Loreto
Egmont, J van 432 Roma) (Rome) 446 73
Elba 350 The Euro 621 Festa del Mare (Diano Marina) 71
hotels 571 European Union 68, 69 Festa de’ Noantri (Rome) 71
restaurants 593 Evelyn, John 149 Festa dei Popoli (Florence) 72
Elea 502 Explorers 44–5 Festa della Salute (Venice) 72





636-666_EW_Italy.indd 646 4/5/17 9:32 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  647


Festa di San Domenico Abate Fondamenta Gherardini (Venice) France 65, 66–7
(Cocullo) 70 106 Francelli, Luca 490
Festa di San Francesco (Assisi) 72 Fontana, Carlo 409, 469 Francesca, Piero della 257
Festa di San Giovanni (Turin) 71 Fontana, Domenico 417, 493, 497 The Dream of Constantine 31
Festa di San Marco (Venice) 70 Food and drink The Duke and Duchess of Urbino
Festa di San Nicola (Bari) 70 Flavours of Central Italy 252–3 291, 292
Festa di San Sebastiano Flavours of Northeast Italy 82–3 Duomo (Arezzo) 333
(Dolceacqua) 73 Flavours of Northwest Italy The Flagellation 374
Festa di Santa Lucia (Lodè) 72 184–5 Legend of the True Cross fresco
Festa della Santa Maria del Flavours of Rome and Lazio cycle (Arezzo) 334–5
Carmine (Naples) 71 382–3 The Resurrection 336
Festa di Sant’Ambrogio (Milan) 73 Flavours of Southern Italy Sansepolcro 336
Festa di Sant’Andrea (Amalfi) 71 480–81 Tempio Malatestiano (Rimini) 270
Festa di Sant’Efisio (Cagliari) 70 A Gourmet Tour of Central Italy Franchetti, Baron Giorgio 98
Festa della Speck (Bolzano) 70 11, 16 Francia, Francesco 267
Festa dell’Uva (Bolzano) 72 Influences on Traditional Sicilian Francis I of France 61
Festival dei Due Mondi (Spoleto) Cuisine 543 Francis I, Pope 69
71, 364 passion for food 29 Francis of Assisi, St 39, 57, 358–9,
Festivals 28, 70–73, 609 regional specialities 607 433
Fiaccole Natale (Abbadia di San seasonal produce 606 Franks 47, 55
Salvatore) 73 shopping 128, 200–201, 309–10, Frascati 471
Fiat 43, 68, 189, 215, 224, 227 447–8, 606 hotels 575
Fidenza 262 see also Restaurants restaurants 599
restaurants 591 Football 29, 69, 74–5, 611 Frederick II, Emperor 57, 332, 490,
Fie allo Sciliar, hotels 564 Foresta Umbra 512 505, 508
Fiera del Tartufo (Alba) 72 Formula One 75, 205, 372 Bari castle 514
Fiesole 332–3 Forums Castel del Monte 513
Filangieri, Prince Gaetano 492 Forum of Augustus (Rome) 393 Lagopesole castle 522
Filarete 423 Forum of Caesar (Rome) 393 Lucera castle 512
Film see Cinema Roman Forum (Aosta) 219 Melfi castle 522
Finale Ligure, hotels 568 Roman Forum (Rome) 12, 53, tomb 531
Finding of the Body of St Mark 394–6 Trani castle 513
(Tintoretto) 33 Forza Italia 28 Frederick of Aragon 515, 532
Fiorentino, Rosso 281, 329, 336, Foscari, Doge Francesco 107 Frederick Barbarossa, Emperor 57,
338 Fountains 191, 207, 522
Moses Defends the Daughters of Fontana della Barcaccia (Rome) Fredinand I of Aragon 496
Jethro 33 413 Fresco technique 31
The Flagellation (della Francesca) Fontana della Fortuna Friso, Alviso dal 108
374 373 Friuli-Venezia Giulia 143, 166–9
The Flight into Egypt (Tintoretto) Fontana Maggiore (Perugia) 58, climate 77
104 356 food 83
Flora Fontana dei Matti (Gubbio) 355 hotels 563–4
Dolomites 87 Fontana del Moro (Rome) 403 map 144–5
Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio Fontana di Nettuno (Bologna) restaurants 581–3
e Molise 510–11 266 Fruit Basket (Caravaggio) 199
Florence 274–317 Fontana di Nettuno (Florence) Fuga, Ferdinando 417, 432, 493
2 Days in Florence 12–13 294 Fumane, restaurants 582
Around the Duomo street-by- Fontana di Nettuno (Messina) Fumiani, Gian Antonio 105
street 282–3 542 The Funeral of San Bernardino
Around Piazza della Repubblica Fontana d’Orione (Messina) 542 (Pinturicchio) 389
street-by-street 296–7 Fontana Pretoria (Palermo) 531
Around San Marco street-by- Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi G
street 278–9 (Rome) 380, 403 Gaddi, Agnolo 332
crafts 43 Fontana del Tritone (Rome) 27, Gaddi, Taddeo 288, 289
festivals 70, 71, 72, 73 436 Gaeta 475
history 47, 60–61, 275 Fontana del Vecchio (Sulmona) restaurants 600
hotels 570 509 Gagini, Antonello 532, 533, 536,
maps 20, 250, 276–7 Fontanelle delle Novantanove 537, 541
Oltrarno street-by-street 304–5 Cannelle (L’Aquila) 508 Gagini, Domenico 537
restaurants 592 Fonte Aretusa (Siracusa) 546 Gagini family 538
shopping 309–10 Fonte Gaia (Siena) 343 Gagliardi, Rosario 483, 547
Street Finder 311–17 Fonte Rosello (Sassari) 552 Galata’s Suicide (statue) 404
A Tour of Etruscan Italy 17 Oceanus Fountain (Florence) 307 Galatina 515, 517
A week in Northern Italy 10, 14 Palazzo Reale (Caserta) 500 Galgano, San 339
Fo, Dario 38, 69 Trevi Fountain (Rome) 12, 65, Galilei, Galileo 45, 62, 121, 163
Follina, hotels 563 378–9, 384, 414–15 Leaning Tower of Pisa 330
Fondaco dei Turchi (Venice) 92 Villa d’Este (Tivoli) 472 Museo Galileo (Florence) 289





636-666_EW_Italy.indd 647 4/5/17 9:32 AM

648  GENER AL INDEX


Galilei, Galileo (cont.) Ghirlandaio, Domenico (cont.) Goths 54
tomb 288 Sistine Chapel (Rome) 430 Gozzoli, Benozzo 329, 349, 363,
trial 63, 408 Giambelli, Pietro 281 474
Galleria San Federico (Turin) 227 Giambologna 266, 278, 281, 287 Life of St Francis fresco cycle 365
Galleria Umberto I (Naples) 497 Mercury 283 The Procession of the Magi 60–61
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Milan) Oceanus Fountain 307 Grado 168
35, 189, 191, 198 The Rape of the Sabine Women restaurants 582
Galleries see Museums and 295 Gran Caffè Margherita (Viareggio)
galleries Giambono, Michele 373 323
Gallery of Views of Ancient Rome Gibson, Mel 523 Gran Sasso 506, 507, 508
(Pannini) 64–5 Gift shops 129, 200–201, 309–10, Grancona, restaurants 582
Gallo, Francesco 233 447–8 Grand Canal (Venice) 13, 85, 91,
Galuppi, Baldassare 125 Gioco del Ponte (Pisa) 71 92–7
Gambello, Antonio 123, 124 Giordano, Luca 491, 492, 532 Rialto to San Marco 94–5
Gandolfino d’Asti 232 Giorgione 32, 199 Santa Lucia to the Rialto 92–3
Garda birthplace 153 The Grand Tour 64–5
hotels 564 The Tempest 110 Graves, Michael 42
restaurants 582 The Three Ages of Man 306 Gravina, Ferdinando, Prince of
Gardone Riviera 152 Giostra del Saracino (Arezzo) 72 Palagonia 536
hotels 566 Giotto di Bondone 58, 161, 162 Greco, Emilio 159, 362
Garessio 233 Campanile (Duomo, Florence) Greek Drama in Theatre (Siracusa)
Garfagnana 322 284 70
Gargano Peninsula 505, 506, Cappella Bardi (Santa Croce, Greek theatres
512 Florence) 289 Segesta 538
restaurants 602 Cappella degli Scrovegni (Padua) Taormina 542
Gargnano del Garda 30, 160–61 Greeks 48, 49, 50, 51
hotels 566 Death of St Francis 289 Ancient Greeks in Southern Italy
restaurants 584 The Dream of Pope Innocent 484–5
Garibaldi, Giuseppe 47, 66–7, 227, III 57 Basilicata and Calabria 519
235 Life of St Francis fresco cycle Naples and Campania 487
Museo Nazionale Garibaldino (Assisi) 251, 358–61 Green travel 624
(Isola Caprera) 552 The Meeting at the Golden Gate 30 Greetings 28
San Marino 372 Ognissanti (Florence) 301 Gregory I (the Great), Pope 55, 421
statue (Parma) 258 Ognissanti Madonna 291 Gregory VII, Pope 56
wife of 243 St Francis Appearing to the Frairs Gregory IX, Pope 57
Gattamelata, statue of (Padua) 162 at Arles 360–61 Gregory XI, Pope 59, 344
Gattapone 356, 364 St Peter’s (Rome) 423 Gregory XIII, Pope 404
Gaudioso, St 497 San Giovanni in Laterano (Rome) Gregory XV, Pope 409
Gela 484 440 Grottaferrata 471
Gennargentu mountains 549, 551, Stefaneschi Triptych 427 Grotte see Caves
554 Uffizi (Florence) 292 Guardi, Francesco 107
Gennaro, St 491, 497 Giovanna I, Queen of Naples 58 Guariento di Arpo, Angels in
Genoa 189, 236, 240–43 Giovanni da Verona 493 Armour 162
history 47, 235 Giro d’Italia 74 Guarini, Guarino 62, 188, 225, 227,
hotels 568 Giudecca (Venice) 228
restaurants 589 hotels 562 Gubbio 11, 17, 59, 355, 356
street-by-street 240–41 restaurants 580 festivals 70
Gentile da Fabriano 31, 292, 329 Giugiaro, Giorgio 42 hotels 572
Gentileschi, Artemisia 293, 405, Giuliano da Maiano 490 restaurants 594
415 Gladiators 397, 500 Gucci 43
Judith 306 Glasswork 45, 607 Gudon, restaurants 584
Genzano, festivals 71 Museo del Vetro (Venice) 125 Guelphs and Ghibellines 57, 58,
George of Antioch 532 shopping for 128 297
Gerace 525 Glorenza 174 Guercino 262, 327, 373, 405, 408
Ghetto (Rome) 405 Glykkon of Athens, Franese Guggenheim, Peggy 109
Ghiberti, Lorenzo 287, 346 Hercules 495 Guglielmo da Pisa 331
Duomo (Florence) 285 Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von 64, Guicciardini, Francesco 305
East Doors of the Baptistry 536 Guidetto da Como 326
(Florence) 284, 286 Goldoni, Carlo 39, 64 Guido d’Arezzo 40
Solomon and the Queen of Sheba Gole dell’Alcantara 542 Guido da Como 328
31 Golf 611 Guinigi, Paolo 326, 327
Ghirlandaio, Domenico 280, 295, Gondolas 92, 635 Guiscard, Robert 56, 522
305, 338 Gonzaga, Lodovico 211
The Annunciation 348 Gonzaga family 211 H
The Life of John the Baptist 301 Gorizia 167 Hadid, Zaha 35, 445
Madonna della Misericordia 301 Gothic architecture 34–5, 84, 188, Hadrian, Emperor 52, 53, 395
Santa Trìnita (Florence) 296 189 Castel Sant’Angelo (Rome) 421





636-666_EW_Italy.indd 648 4/5/17 9:32 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm