(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

NAPLES AND C A MP ANIA  499

Plan of Pompeii VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
VIA DI NOLA Piazza Esedra 5. Tel 081 857 53 47.
Open 9am–7:30pm daily (last
Porta Marina VIA DELL’ABBONDANZA adm: 6pm) (Nov–Mar: to 5pm, last
adm: 3:30pm). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
entrance & 7 8 - ∑ pompeii sites.
WESTERN
POMPEII org ∑ www.ticket4art.it
Piazza Esedra
entrance Transport
Piazza V FS Naples–Salerno: station
. House of the Vettii
The villa of the wealthy merchants Aulus Area illustrated below Anfiteatro entrance Pompei Scavi; Circum vesuviana
Naples–Sorrento: station Pompei
Vettius Conviva and Aulus Vettius
Restitutus contains frescoes (see pp48–9). Villa dei Misteri.
It is currently closed for renovation. Western Pompeii
This detailed illustration is of the Vesuvius and the Campanian Towns
western area, where the most
impressive and intact Roman Nearly 2,000 years after the survivors, Pliny the Younger
ruins are located. There are eruption of Mount Vesuvius, the related the first hours of the
eruption and his uncle’s death
Roman towns in its shadow are
several large patrician villas in still being released from the in detail in two letters to the
the eastern section, as wealthy petrification that engulfed Roman historian Tacitus.
residents built their homes them. Both Pompeii and Stabiae Much of our knowledge of the
outside the town centre. (Castellammare di daily lives of the
V I A S T A B I A N A
However, much of eastern Stabia), to the ancient Romans
Pompeii awaits excavation. southeast of Naples derives from the
and the volcano, excavations of
Amphitheatre and were smothered by Pompeii and
sports ground hot ash and pumice- Herculaneum.
Most of the
Teatro stone blown there by artefacts from them,
the wind. The roofs of
Grande
the buildings as well as Stabiae,
collapsed under the Pompeiian vase in Museo are now in Naples’
VICOLO DEL LUPANARE
weight of the volcanic Nazionale Archeologico Museo Archeologico
Nazionale (see
debris. To the west, pp494–5), creating an
V I A D E L L ’ A B B O N D A N Z A vanished under a sea of outstanding collection.
Herculaneum (Ercolano)
mud. A large number
Mount Vesuvius has not
erupted since 1944, but
of its buildings have
occasional rumbles have
survived, their roofs
intact, and many
Visitors can reach it by
domestic items
train to Castellammare
were preserved by caused minor earthquakes.
the mud. In all, di Stabia, or by car.
about 2,000 A useful website is
Pompeiians www.guidevesuvio.it.
perished, but few, if
any, of the residents of
Herculaneum died.
In AD 79, Pliny the
Elder, the Roman soldier,
writer and naturalist, was
the commander of a fleet
stationed off Misenum
(present-day Miseno,
west of Naples) and,
with his nephew Pliny
the Younger, observed
the impending eruption
from afar. Eager to see
this natural catastrophe
closer to hand, Pliny the
Via dell’Abbondanza Elder proceeded to
This was one of the original and Stabiae, but was
most important roads through overcome by fumes and
ancient Pompeii. Many inns died. Based on reports by Casts of a dying mother and child seen at Pompeii
lined the route.
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500  SOUTHERN IT AL Y

3 Santa Maria
Capua Vetere
Caserta. * 34,000. V @ n Palazzo
Reale, Caserta (0823 32 22 33).
( Thu & Sun.
This town boasts a 1st-century-
AD Roman amphitheatre, once
Italy’s largest after the Colosseum,
with well-preserved tunnels
beneath it. The town occupies
the site of ancient Capua, an
Etruscan city and then a flourish-
ing centre during the Roman
Empire. It was the scene of the
revolt of the gladiators, led by
Spartacus in 73 BC. The on-site
Gladiator Museum recreates the A fountain in the gardens of the Palazzo Reale at Caserta
history of the gladiators. Nearby
is a Mithraeum (2nd–3rd staircases and richly adorned The Roman city, Beneventum,
century) with well-preserved apartments. It was designed by was an important centre. It stood
frescoes. Finds from the sites are Luigi Vanvitelli and construction at the end of the first extension
shown in the Museo Archeo lo­ started in 1752. The surrounding of the Via Appia from Capua, and
gico dell’Antica Capua in Capua. park boasts fountains, ornamental the Arch was erected across the
waterworks, statuary and an old road in honour of Trajan. Built
T Amphitheatre English Garden. Sound and light of marble in AD 114–166, it is
P.za 1 Ottobre. Tel 0823 79 88 64. Open shows, in English and Italian, extremely well preserved. The
9am–1 hr before sunset Tue–Sun. & take place in summer. relief sculpture adorning it –
valid for Mithraeum:. Open Tue–Sun scenes from the life of Trajan
on request. Environs and mythological subjects – is
E Museo Archeologico The medieval town of Caserta in excellent condition.
dell’Antica Capua Vecchia lies 10 km (6 miles) to Elsewhere, evidence of the
Via Roberto d’Angio 48, Capua. the northeast. Its 12th-century Romans is to be found in the
Tel 0823 84 42 06. Open cathedral is a fine example of ruined Roman theatre, built
9am–7:30pm Tue–Sun. & southern Norman architecture. during Hadrian’s reign, and in
San Leucio, 3 km (2 miles) the Museo del Sannio, which
northwest of Caserta, is a model contains artifacts from the
town built by Ferdinand IV, who region, from ancient Greek
also founded its silk industry. finds to modern art.
During World War II, the city
P Palazzo Reale stood directly in the way of the
Piazza Carlo III. Tel 0823 44 80 84. Allied advance from the south. It
Open 8:30am–7:30pm Wed–Mon. was heavily bombed, hence its
Closed pub hols. & 7 Park: Open largely modern appearance. The
8:30am–1 hr before sunset daily. Duomo, a 13th-century building
reconstructed after the war, has
5 Benevento a sculpted façade that, though
badly damaged, has since been
* 62,000. V @ n Via Sala 31 restored. The remains of its
Tunnels under the amphitheatre in Santa (0824 31 99 11). ( Mon & Wed– Sat. Byzantine bronze doors are
Maria Capua Vetere ∑ comune.
benevento.it
4 Caserta Benevento, set
in a lonely,
* 79,000. V @ n Palazzo Reale
(0823 44 80 84 or 0823 27 73 80). ( mountainous
Wed & Sat. ∑ reggiadicaserta. province, is home
beniculturali.it to one of southern
Italy’s most
Magnificently opulent, the vast interesting
Palazzo Reale dominates Caserta. ancient Roman
Built for the Bourbon King Charles monuments:
III, Italy’s largest royal palace the Arch of Trajan The ornate 2nd-century Roman arch in Benevento,
boasts over 1,000 rooms, grand on Via Traiano. built to honour Trajan
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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NAPLES AND C A MP ANIA  501


within. The town has centuries-
old associations with pagan
worship, and a liqueur called
Strega (witch) is made here.

T Roman Theatre
Piazza Caio Ponzio Telesino. Tel 089 25
20 75. Open 9am–1 hr before sunset
daily. Closed public hols. & 7
E Museo del Sannio
Piazza Santa Sofia. Tel 0824 77 47 63.
Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun. Closed
1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7
6 Amalfi Coast The small town of Atrani on the Amalfi Coast
Salerno. @ g Amalfi. n Corso
delle Repubbliche Marinare 27, Amalfi vertiginous slope to the sea. cloisters have a Saracenic-
(089 87 11 07). ∑ amalfitourist A top spot for the jet set, it is inspired appearance.
office.it; ∑ ravellotime.it; nonetheless a good place to Ravello has the best views on
∑ aziendaturismopositano.it swim, or to catch the hydrofoil this coast, the prime vantage
or ferry to Capri. Further on, points being the gardens of
The most enchanting route in Praiano is just as fashionable. Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo.
Campania is that skirting the Amalfi is the coast’s largest Views from the latter provided
southern flank of Sorrento’s town and a popular resort. inspiration for Wagner’s Parsifal.
peninsula: the Amalfi Coast It was a maritime power before The 11th-century Duomo has
(Costiera Amalfitana). Popular being subdued in 1131 by King entrance doors by Barisano da
pleasures here include dining Roger of Naples. The world’s Trani (1179) and an ornate 13th-
on grilled fish and sipping oldest maritime code, the Tavole century ambo (pulpit) held aloft
Lacrima Christi from the Amalfitane, originated here. by six spiral columns. The chapel
vineyards on the slopes of The 13th-century Chiostro del of San Pantaleone contains
Vesuvius, beach-hopping and Paradiso flanks the Duomo, a the blood of its 4th-century
trips to coastal summits to magnificent 9th-century namesake, which liquefies
admire the breathtaking views. structure fronted by a rich annually in May and August.
From Sorrento, a well- 13th-century façade, and facing Beyond Atrani, the ruins of a
developed holiday resort, the the town from the top of a long Roman villa at Minori show that
road winds down to Positano, flight of steps. The style is this coastline has always been
a village clambering down a Lombard-Norman, though the a popular holiday spot.


























A breathtaking view of the steep village of Positano on the Amalfi Coast




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502  SOUTHERN IT AL Y

7 Salerno
Salerno. V @ g Salerno. n Piazza
Vittorio Veneto 1 (089 23 14 32).
Salerno is a big, busy port.
Here the Allies landed in 1943,
leaving in their wake a much-
bombed city. Once famous for
its School of Medicine (12th
century), it is visited today
for its Duomo, an 11th-century
structure built on an earlier
foundation. Its best feature is The Temple of Hera I (left) and the Temple of Neptune at Paestum
the Atrium, whose columns
came from nearby Paestum. magnificent 4th-century 8 Paestum
In the crypt is the Tomb of St Roman gateway: the Porta Rosa, Zona Archeologica: n Via Magna
Matthew, brought here in 954. Roman baths, the foundations Grecia 887. Tel 0828 81 10 16. @ from
The Museo Diocesano is of a temple and the remains of Salerno. V Paestum. Open 8:30am–
home to most of the cathedral the acropolis. 1hr before sunset daily. Museum: Tel
treasures, including an 11th- 0828 81 10 23. Open 8:30am–6:45pm
century ivory altar-front called E Museo Diocesano Tue–Sun. Closed 1st & 3rd Mon of
the Paliotto. Before wandering Largo Plebiscito. Tel 089 23 91 26. month, 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7
off down the bustling Corso Open 9:30am–1pm, 3–7pm
Vittorio Emanuele, visit the Thu–Tue. This is the most important
Museo Provinciale for local E Museo Provinciale ancient Greek site south of Naples
archaeological finds. Via San Benedetto. Tel 089 23 11 35. in Campania. The Greeks founded
Open 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sun. this city on the edge of the Piana
Environs
The Cilento is a mountainous
region south of Salerno with a 9 Capri unmarred by the throng. The
remote interior and a lovely, Napoli. g Capri. n Piazza Umberto I, home of emperors, seat of
quiet coastline that is only slightly Capri (081 837 06 86). Grotta Azzurra g monasteries, place of exile, its
more populous. Among the from Marina Grande; @ from Anacapri. fortunes changed during the
towns along the coast, Agropoli Open in calm sea. Certosa: Via Certosa, 19th century, when English and
is a busy little seaside resort Capri. Tel 081 837 62 18. Open May– German expatriates discovered
42 km (25 miles) south of Salerno. Dec: Tue–Sun; times vary, so call first. its charms. Today it barely has a
Outside Castellammare di Velia, 7 Villa Jovis: Via Tiberio. Open daily. “low season”; farmers run little
a further 28 km (17 miles) to the Closed 1st two Tue and last two Sun hotels, and fishermen rent
southeast, are the ruins of the of month. & ∑ capritourism.com pleasure boats. Capri enjoys its
Greek town of Elea (founded well-deserved reputation as
6th century BC). It was much Capri’s reputation as a sybaritic a Garden of Eden.
visited by the Romans – Cicero paradise is nearly eclipsed by its
visited and Horace came on his notoriety as a tourist trap.
doctor’s orders to undergo a However, the views are
treatment of sea bathing.
Excavations have revealed a












The Grotta Azzurra, or
the Blue Grotto, is a Anacapri is Capri’s
cave bathed in second town.
iridescent blue light
which can be reached 0 kilometres
by tour boat from 1
The busy port of Salerno Marina Grande. 0 miles 0.5
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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NAPLES AND C A MP ANIA  503


del Sele in the 6th century BC and therapeutic mudbaths,
and called it Poseidonia, the City it is nearly as popular as Capri.
of Poseidon. The Romans Ferries dock at Ischia Porto,
renamed it in 273 BC. It fell into the harbour and modern part
decline and was abandoned in of the main town, Ischia. Ischia
the 9th century due to malaria Ponte, the older part, is a short
and a Saracen assault, and walk away. The northern and
rediscovered in the 18th century. western shores are developed;
Paestum has three massive the southern flank of the island
Doric temples in an excellent state is the quietest. Here, the village
of repair: the Basilica or Temple of of Sant’ Angelo is dominated
Hera I (mid-6th century BC); the by a long-extinct volcano,
Temple of Neptune (5th century A view from the highest point of Procida, Monte Epomeo, whose summit
BC), the largest and most called Terra Murata of 788 m (2,585 ft) offers terrific
complete at Paestum; and the views across the bay. Also
Temple of Ceres, thought to date 0 Ischia and worth a visit are the gardens of
between its two neighbours. Procida La Mortella in Forio.
Excavations have revealed the The tiny, picturesque island
remains of the ancient city, its Napoli. g Ischia & Procida. n Via of Procida is less visited and very
public and religious buildings, Sogliuzzo 72, Ischia (081 507 42 11), tranquil. The swimming is good
roads and protective walls. Via V. Emanuele 168 (081 810 19 68). at Chiaiolella and, as at Ischia,
A museum contains the La Mortella: Tel 081 98 62 20. Open there are inexpensive places
Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm Tue, Thu, Sat &
extensive finds from the site, Sun. & ∑ infoischiaprocida.it to stay. The main town, also
including tomb paintings, tomb called Procida, is home to
treasures, some terracotta votive Ischia is the biggest island in the main ferry port – the
offerings, architectural the Bay of Naples and, with its Marina Grande.
fragments and sculpture. beach resorts, thermal springs

There are views towards Vesuvius Marina Grande
and the Bay of Naples from the north This is Capri’s main port of call
of the island. for ferries from Naples and
other ports on the Tyrrhenian
Capri is the main coast. An array of
town on the island. colourful houses
overlooks the
harbour.


I Faraglioni








Marina
Piccola is
reached by
dramatic
Via Krupp.
Villa Jovis
Covering an enormous area, this was
the Imperial villa from which Tiberius
ruled the Roman Empire during his
final years.
Certosa di San Giacomo
Founded in 1371 on the site of one of
Tiberius’s villas, this Carthusian monastery
was suppressed in 1808 and is now in part
a school. The distant rocks are I Faraglioni.




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sout H ern I t A ly  505

ABRUZZO, MOLISE

AND PUGLIA


Puglia is the “heel” of the Italian boot, the Gargano
Peninsula is its “spur” and Abruzzo and Molise together
form the “ankle”. Hugging the southeastern seaboard of
Italy and looking towards the Balkans, the mountainous
regions of Abruzzo and Molise, united until 1963, differ
considerably from Puglia, the richest of the three.

Abruzzo and Molise are sparsely populated, and highly fertile. It produces the largest
quiet places where the wild landscape amount of olive oil in Italy, and its big
exerts a strong influence. Settled by cities – Lecce, Bari and Taranto – are lively
various Apennine tribes in the Middle commercial centres. The region experienced
Bronze Age, the areas were later subdued a long-lasting Greek influence, though the
by the Romans, united under the Normans golden age of Puglia’s past was under the
in the 12th century and, thereafter, ruled rule of the Normans, followed by Frederick II
by a succession of dynasties based in who, between his return from Germany as
Naples. Abruzzo, dominated by the emperor in 1220 and his death 30 years
Apennines, is a brooding, introspective land later, only spent four years away from here.
of shepherds. Vertiginous drops preface the Puglia has glorious architecture,
ascent to ramshackle hill-towns clinging particularly in the churches and castles of
to the sides of high mountains, semi- the north. The curious trulli houses in
abandoned and poor. Molise’s landscape is central Puglia, the florid Baroque of Lecce
less dramatic. Legends of witches persist in and the Levantine atmosphere of its
both regions, as do strange fertility rites and merchant cities complete the picture of an
rituals celebrating the changing seasons. ancient land subject to more influences
Puglia’s advantage over its poverty- from outside the Italian peninsula than
stricken neighbours is that it is nearly all flat from within it.

























Traditional dress worn in the town of Scanno in Abruzzo
A row of trulli houses in the town of Alberobello, Puglia



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506  SOUTHERN IT AL Y

Exploring Abruzzo, Molise and Puglia

Dominated by the Apennine mountain range, the hinterland of
Abruzzo and Molise forms one of Italy’s last wildernesses. At 2,912 m
(9,554 ft), the highest peak is the Gran Sasso. Parts of Abruzzo are
covered in tracts of forest, while Molise features high plains, gentle
valleys and lonely peaks. The coastline of the Gargano Peninsula in
Puglia (Apulia) is packed with cliffs, caves and islets. Reaching south
is the fertile Tavoliere plain, and further south
a series of upland plateaux (the San Benedetto
Murge) descends towards del Tronto
the dry Salentine
Peninsula and Bellante Giulianova
the Adriatic. Teramo The picturesque medieval hill-town of
Crognaleto Pineto Scanno, in Abruzzo
Montereale ATRI
Corno Grande Montesilvano Marina
2912m Penne Pescara
Pizzoli Francavilla al Mare
Loreto
L’AQUILA Ortona
Gran Sasso d’Italia Aprutino
Capestrano Chieti ISOLE
ABRUZZO LANCIANO
Monte Velino TREMITI
2487m Punta della Penna
Celano Popoli Maiella Isola San Nicola
Carsoli Cásoli Vasto
Isola
Roma Avezzano Cocullo SULMONA San Salvo Termoli San Domino
Rodi
Capistrello Trigno Campomarino Gargánico
SCANNO Sangro Palata Biferno Lago di Lago di Péschici Vieste
PARCO NAZIONALE Opi Capracotta Lesina Varano
GARGANO
D’ABRUZZO Trivento Rotello Fortore Apricena PENINSULA Testa del Gargano
Carovilli MOLISE Monte Sant’Angelo
San Severo
Getting Around della Meta Isernia Colletorto
Monti
Manfredonia
Northern Abruzzo is well Cassino Ta v o l i e r e Golfo di
served by the A24 and A25–E80, Campobasso LUCERA Manfredonia
and the S17 traverses the interior Venafro Bojano Foggia Zapponeta
of Abruzzo and Molise. The coastal Sepino Alberona Margherita di Savoia
highway (A14–E55) heads south through TROIA Orta Nova Barletta
Abruzzo and Molise into Puglia. Beyond Cerignola TRANI
Foggia, it joins the S16 to Taranto. Brindisi, the Bovino Ofanto Andria Molfetta
main port for Greece, is accessible from Bari or Candela
M A R A D R I A T I C O
Taranto. The roads throughout are good. Train RUVO DI PUGLIA BARI
and bus services go to the major centres, with Napoli Bitonto Mola di Bari
buses only to more remote parts. CASTEL DEL L e M u r g e Bitetto
MONTE Casamassima Monopoli
PUGLIA Turi
Key Altamura Putignano
ALBEROBELLO
Motorway Gravina in Puglia Santeramo Locorotondo
in Colle Carovigno
Major road Martina
Franca Ostuni
Secondary road Castellaneta Massafra Brindisi
Road under Ginosa Palagiano Grottaglie Mesagne Penisola
construction Salentina
Minor road Isola TARANTO Oria
Cheradi Campi Salentina
Scenic route Murge Tarantine LECCE
Manduria
Policoro
Main railway Copertino
Capo dell'Ovo
Minor railway OTRANTO
Regional border Golf o di GALATINA
Summit T ar anto Gallipoli Maglie
Casarano
Ugento Tricase
Isola-la-Chianca beach on the beautiful Gargano Peninsula
Punta Ristola
For additional map symbols see back flap
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ABRUZZ O , MOLISE AND PUGLIA  507

Sights at a Glance
1 L’Aquila
2 Atri
3 Sulmona
4 Scanno
5 Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo,
Lazio e Molise pp510–11
6 Lanciano
7 Isole Tremiti
8 Gargano Peninsula
9 Lucera
San Benedetto
del Tronto 0 Troia
q Trani
Bellante Giulianova w Castel del Monte
e Ruvo di Puglia
Teramo The picturesque medieval hill-town of
Crognaleto Pineto Scanno, in Abruzzo r Bari
Montereale ATRI t Alberobello
Corno Grande Montesilvano Marina y Taranto
2912m Penne Pescara u Lecce pp516–17
Pizzoli Francavilla al Mare
Loreto i Galatina
L’AQUILA Ortona o Otranto
Gran Sasso d’Italia Aprutino
Capestrano Chieti ISOLE
ABRUZZO LANCIANO
Monte Velino TREMITI
2487m Punta della Penna
Celano Popoli Maiella Isola San Nicola
Carsoli Cásoli Vasto
Isola
Roma Avezzano Cocullo SULMONA San Salvo Termoli San Domino The high peaks of the Gran Sasso, north of L’Aquila in Abruzzo
Rodi
Capistrello Trigno Campomarino Gargánico
SCANNO Sangro Palata Biferno Lago di Lago di Péschici Vieste
PARCO NAZIONALE Opi Capracotta Lesina Varano
GARGANO
D’ABRUZZO Trivento Rotello Fortore Apricena PENINSULA Testa del Gargano
Carovilli
MOLISE San Severo Monte Sant’Angelo
Isernia Colletorto Manfredonia
Monti
Cassino Ta v o l i e r e Golfo di
della Meta
Campobasso LUCERA Manfredonia
Venafro Bojano Zapponeta
Alberona Foggia
Sepino Margherita di Savoia
TROIA Orta Nova Barletta
Cerignola TRANI
Bovino Ofanto Andria Molfetta Lecce’s exuberant Baroque architecture, epitomized
in Santa Croce’s rose window
M A R A D R I A T I C O
Candela
RUVO DI PUGLIA BARI
Bitonto Mola di Bari
Napoli
CASTEL DEL L e M u r g e Bitetto
MONTE Casamassima Monopoli
PUGLIA Turi 0 kilometres 50
Altamura Putignano 0 miles 25
ALBEROBELLO
Gravina in Puglia Santeramo Locorotondo
in Colle Carovigno
Martina
Franca Ostuni
Castellaneta Massafra Brindisi
Ginosa Palagiano Grottaglie Mesagne Penisola
Salentina
Isola TARANTO Oria
Cheradi Campi Salentina
Manduria
Policoro Murge Tarantine LECCE
Copertino
Capo dell'Ovo
OTRANTO
Golf o di GALATINA
T ar anto Gallipoli Maglie
Casarano
Ugento Tricase
Punta Ristola
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508  SOUTHERN IT AL Y


The 13th-century Duomo
occupies the site of a Roman
bath; the crypt was once a
swimming pool, and fragments
of the original mosaic floor are
visible in the apse. Also in the
apse is Andrea Delitio’s beautiful
15th-century fresco cycle, in
which he combined landscape
and architecture in a variety
of religious scenes from the
Old and New Testaments.
The cloister has views of the
15th-century brick campanile.
Environs
South of Atri is the hill-town of
Penne, with its homogeneous
The pink-and-white-stone façade of Santa Maria di Collemaggio in L’Aquila buildings of reddish brick,
which give it a wonderful,
1 L’Aquila San Bernardino, on Via di San warm glow. East of Atri, Loreto
Bernardino, houses the tomb Aprutino is known for The Last
* 73,000. V @ n Via XX
Settembre 10 (800 502 520). ( daily. (1505) of San Bernardino of Judgment fresco (14th century)
∑ abruzzoturismo.it Siena. The church (built 1454– in Santa Maria in Piano.
72), has a façade (1527) by
Abruzzo’s capital lies at the foot Cola dell’Amatrice and an
of the Gran Sasso, at 2,912 m 18th-century carved ceiling by
(9,554 ft) the highest point of Ferdinando Mosca. The bell
the Italian mainland south of tower collapsed in the 2009
the Alps (and good for skiing). earthquake. The second chapel
Its ancient streets are peppered in the south aisle has an
with churches. In April 2009 an altarpiece by Andrea della
earthquake, measuring 6.3 in Robbia, the Renaissance artist.
magnitude, struck central Italy The medieval Fontanelle
with the epicentre close to delle Novantanove Cannelle
L’Aquila. Many of the historical at the end of Via San Iacopo is a
churches and buildings fountain commemorating the
described below have been 99 villages that Frederick II
seriously damaged by the supposedly united when he
quake. Restoration work is being founded L’Aquila in 1240.
carried out on many buildings, The Museo Nazionale
so do check with the tourist d’Abruzzo, in the 16th-century
office before visiting. castle, contains the remains of
The domed Santa Giusta a prehistoric elephant, Roman Detail from 15th-century fresco by Andrea
(1257), off Via Santa Giusta, has a artifacts and religious works. Delitio in Atri’s Duomo
rose window and a Martyrdom
of St Stephen (1615) by Cavalier E Museo Nazionale d’Abruzzo
d’Arpino. Santa Maria di Temporarily housed in front of the 3 Sulmona
Paganica, off Via Paganica, has a Novanta nove Cannelle. Tel 0862 487 42 L’Aquila. * 26,000. V @ n Corso
14th-century façade and a 97. Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun. & 7 Ovidio 208 (0864 532 76). ( Wed &
carved portal. The Duomo Sat. _ Sep: International Exhibition
(1257) in Piazza del of Contemporary Art.
Duomo was rebuilt 2 Atri ∑ comune.sulmona.aq.it
in the 18th century. Teramo. * 12,000. @ n
The massive church 0861 24 42 22. ( Mon. This town is famous as the
of Santa Maria di ∑ comune.atri.te.it home of both Ovid and confetti
Collemaggio, (sugared almonds). At weddings
on Piazza di Detail of Fontanelle delle The prettiest in a guests are given confetti for good
Collemaggio, has a Novantanove Cannelle in series of small hill- luck. Sulmona is filled with ancient
façade of pink and L’Aquila towns in Abruzzo, buildings, especially along
white stone. It was Atri is a warren of medieval Via dell’Ospedale.
built in the 13th century by stepped streets, alleys and The Palazzo dell’Annunziata,
Pietro dal Morrone, who later passages bound by mostly brick founded in 1320, combines
became Pope Celestine V. and stone churches and houses. Gothic and Renaissance styles.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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ABRUZZ O , MOLISE AND PUGLIA  509


The Museo Civico holds a Ovid, the Latin Poet
collection of local antiquities,
costumes, paintings and the Born in 43 BC, Ovid (Publius Ovidius Naso) was
work of goldsmiths formerly Sulmona’s most illustrious inhabitant. Not much
housed in the palace. The adja- survives here to remind you of his presence,
cent church of the Annunziata, however, apart from a Corso Ovidio, a 20th-
with a Baroque façade, was century statue of him in Piazza XX Settembre
rebuilt in the 18th century. and, just outside the town, a ruin traditionally
Behind the church are 1 BC– known as Ovid’s Villa. Known as one of the
greatest poets of Classical Rome, his subjects
AD 2 ruins of a Roman house. included love (Ars Amatoria) and mythology (Metamorphoses).
At the end of Viale Matteotti In AD 8 he was banished into exile on the Black Sea, the far edge of
is the cathedral of San Panfilo, the Roman Empire, after being implicated in a scandal of adultery
built over a Roman temple. with Julia, the granddaughter of Emperor Augustus (see pp52–3).
San Francesco della Scarpa, Ovid con tinued to write of his hardships, and died in exile in AD 17.
in Piazza del Carmine, has a
13th-century portal. Winding
past it to the Fontana del
Vecchio (1474) is an aqueduct 4 Scanno In the shadow of Apennine
that once fuelled local industry. peaks and beside lovely Lago
L’Aquila. * 2,400. @ n Piazza Santa
Maria della Valle 12 (0864 743 17). di Scanno, the town is also a
Environs ( Tue. ∑ scanno.org favoured stop on the way to the
East of Sulmona is the Maiella Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo
National Park, a massif of 61 peaks Wonderfully well- (see pp510–11). The
and forested valleys offering preserved, this summer months are
walk ing, birdwatching, climbing medieval hill-town the busiest, with a
and skiing. To the west, Cocullo set in beautiful, wild variety of activities
hosts the May Processione dei countryside is one from riding, boating
Serpari (Festival of Snakes) in of Abruzzo’s most and camping by the
which a statue of the patron popular attractions. lake, to the August
saint, Domenico Abate, is There are alleys and classical music festival.
draped with snakes and carried narrow flights of steps, During the January
through the town. In the 11th oddly shaped Festa di Sant’ Antonio
century he is said to have rid courtyards into which Abate, a large lasagna
the area of venomous snakes. small churches have is cooked outside
been pressed, and Traditional costume still Santa Maria della
E Museo Civico ancient mansions in worn in Scanno Valle, which is built on
Palazzo dell’Annunziata, Corso Ovidio. whose windows the remains of a pagan
Tel 0864 21 02 16. Open 9am–1pm, women can be seen making temple. The food is doled out on
4–6:30pm daily. lace or embroidering. a first-come, first-served basis.

























High Apennine peaks looming above the medieval hill-town of Scanno in Abruzzo




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510  SOUTHERN IT AL Y

5 Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise

This vast park, inaugurated in 1922, has a rich landscape of high
peaks, rivers, lakes and forests, and is one of Europe’s most
important nature reserves. Part of a royal
hunting reserve until 1877, today it provides Pescina Golden eagles
refuge for 66 species of mammal, 52 types of Avezzano may be seen near
the Sangro River.
reptile, amphibian and fish, and 230 species
of bird, including the golden eagle and
white-backed woodpecker, as well as over
2,000 varieties of flora. The park has an
extensive network of paths, and there
are opportunities for riding, trekking J
and climbing.




• Pescasseroli
MONTE
MARSICANO
2,242 m
(7,356 ft)
Opi
•
Sangro


Young Chamois
Dense forests of beech and Forests of beech
maple hide the Apennine and black pine provide
chamois. There are also red beautiful scenery. Cassino
and roe deer in the park.
Pescasseroli
This town is a major centre for
information on the area. It has
good tourist facilities and a small
zoological garden with animals Melfa
living in the region, such as bears
and wolves.













Apennine Wolves
The park guaran tees
protection for the
Apennine wolf, and
about 60 wolves survive Marsican Brown Bear
here. The chances of Once hunted almost to extinction,
seeing one, however, between 80 and 100 brown bears
are fairly remote. now roam in the park.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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ABRUZZ O , MOLISE AND PUGLIA  511

6 Lanciano
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information Chieti. * 35,000. V @
L’Aquila. n Nature Centre: n Piazza Plebiscito 50 (0872 71
Pescasseroli (0863 911 32 21); visit 91 27). ( Wed & Sat. ∑ lanciano.eu
the website for opening hours.
∑ parcoabruzzo.it Large parts of Lanciano’s old
nucleus remain from the Middle
Transport Ages. In the crumbling Civitanova
V Avezzano or Castel di Sangro, quarter is the 13th-century
then @ to Pescasseroli. church of Santa Maria Maggiore,
with a magnificent 14th-century
Horse Riding portal and a silver processional
Trekking is an excellent cross (1422). Also in this area is
way to explore more the now disused San Biagio
remote areas of (begun c.1059), near the 11th-
the park. century Porta San Biagio – a
Scanno
Sulmona rare surviving town gate. The
Duomo stands on the remains
of a Roman bridge dating from
the time of Diocletian. An
underground passage links the
bridge to the Sanctuary of the
MONTE
MARSICANO Eu charistic Miracle, where a host
and wine that turned into live
2,242 m
(7,356 ft) Lake Barrea Flesh and Blood in the 8th
Created by the artificial damming of the century are kept. The Ripa Sacca
J River Sangro, this lake is surrounded by (Jewish ghetto) was a busy
valleys and forests offering walking and
Villetta Barrea • commercial centre in the Middle
pony trekking. Ages – the period of Lanciano’s
greatest prosperity. The hefty
Lago di Barrea walls of the Torri Montanara
Barrea •
Civitella • were built then by the Aragonese
J Alfedena
as a bulwark against attack.
7 Isole Tremiti
MONTI Alredena
DELLA Isernia Foggia. * 400. g San Nicola.
META
n Via Perrone 17, Foggia (0881 72 31
41); Via Sant’Antonio Abate 21, Monte
MONTE Sant’Angelo (0884 56 89 11).
PETROSO ∑ lecinqueisole.it
2,247 m
Melfa
(7,372 ft) Off the Gargano coast, the
LA META Tremiti are the Italian islands
least visited by foreigners. San
2,241 m
(7,352 ft) Domino is the largest, with a
sandy beach and coves. Julia,
granddaughter of Augustus, was
Rava Dense Forests exiled here for adultery from
AD 8 until her death in AD 28.
Beech and maple The poet Ovid was allegedly
forests, dotted involved (see p509).
with black Santa Maria a Mare, in San
hornbeam, ash, Nicola, the administrative centre
The Camosciara is a hawthorn, cherry,
spectacular area, home wild apple and of the islands, is an abbey fortress
to many wild animals. pear, protect the founded in the 8th century. It
once persecuted was turned into a prison in the
bears and wolves. late 1700s, a role it maintained
until 1945.
Key Both the islands of San Domino
and Santa Maria a Mare are pop-
Major road
ular with Italians. The swimming
Minor road 0 kilometres 5 is good, though the coastline of
Walking path 0 miles 5 San Nicola is rocky.

For additional map symbols see back flap

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512  SOUTHERN IT AL Y


1269, its fortified wall of 900 m
(2,953 ft) is interspersed with
24 towers. Of Frederick’s original
palace, only the base and
some vaulting remains.
In 1300, Charles II, who
killed most of Lucera’s Muslim
population, began the Duomo
on the site of their main
mosque. The high, soaring nave
is filled with 15th­ and 16th­
century frescoes and carvings.
The Museo Civico Fiorelli
has displays of episodes from
throughout Lucera’s history.
E Museo Civico Fiorelli
Via de Nicastri 44. Tel 0881 54 70
41. Open 10am–1pm & 3–7pm
Tue–Sun.
The coast near Peschici on the Gargano Peninsula
8 Gargano Lesina and Varano, havens for
Peninsula waterfowl. Plunging through the
Gargano is an old pilgrim route
Foggia. V @ n Piazza del Popolo (S272) from San Severo in the
10, Manfredonia (0884 58 19 98); Via west to the shrine at Monte
Sant’Antonio Abate 21, Monte Sant’Angelo in the east. The first
Sant’Angelo (0884 56 89 11).
∑ parcogargano.it stop is San Marco in Lamis,
dominated by a huge 16th­
A rocky spur jutting into the century convent. Further along,
Adriatic Sea, the Gargano is San Giovanni Rotondo is a focus
dotted with coves and cliffs. Its for pilgrims visiting the tomb of
coastal towns of Manfredonia, Padre Pio (1887–1968), a beatified
Rodi Garganico, Peschici and miracle worker. The last stop is The remains of Lucera castle
Vieste are popular with holiday­ Monte Sant’Angelo, with its
makers. To the east lies the grotto where the Archangel
Foresta Umbra, a vast woodland Michael is said to have appeared 0 Troia
of beech, oak, yew and pine, to the Bishop of Sipontum in 493. Foggia. * 33,000. @ n 0881 97 82
and to the north the salt lakes of To the south of Manfredonia, 41. ( 1st & 3rd Sat of month.
beside the ruins of ancient ∑ www.comune.troia.fg.it
Siponto, is the oriental­inspired
12th­century church of Santa Founded in 1017 as a Byzantine
Maria di Siponto. fortress against the Lombards,
Troia fell to the Normans in
1066. Until Frederick II destroyed
9 Lucera it in 1229, the town had been
ruled by a succession of
Foggia. * 35,000. @ n Piazza
Nocelli 6 (0881 52 27 62). ( Wed. powerful bishops who were
∑ www.comune.lucera.fg.it responsible for producing many
remarkable buildings, including
On the northeast edge of town, Troia’s Duomo (see pp482–3).
once a prosperous Roman Begun in 1093 and constructed
colony, are the ruins of a Roman over the following 30 years, it
amphitheatre. Lucera was exhibits an extra ordinary diversity
rebuilt in the 13th century by of styles. It successfully blends
Frederick II, who peopled it elements of Lombard, Saracenic
with 20,000 Sicilian Muslims. and Byzantine style with that of
It became one of the strongest the Pisan­Romanesque.
fortresses in southern Italy, and Elegant blind arcading
its castle is one of Puglia’s most distinguishes the Duomo’s
Typical street scene in the town of Vieste on magnificent. Built in 1233 by lower storey. The upper sections
the Gargano Peninsula Frederick II, and enlarged after are characterized by powerfully
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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ABRUZZ O , MOLISE AND PUGLIA  513


carved sculpture – projecting Duomo’s most notable external
lions and bulls. The upper features are its sculptures,
façade displays a rose window particularly surrounding the
with Saracenic-style detailing. rose window and the arched
The main entrance, with window below it, and the
bronze doors by Oderisio entrance portal with bronze
da Beneventano (1119), is doors (1175–9) by Barisano
dominated by carved capitals da Trani. The vigour of the
and an architrave, both Byzantine interior has been revealed
in style. Within the Duomo is a following restoration.
Romanesque pulpit (1169). Next to the Duomo is the
castle (1233–49) founded by
Frederick II. Rebuilt in the 14th
q Trani and 15th centuries, it is a well-
preserved edifice with one wall
Bari. * 55,000. V @ n Piazza
Sacra Regia Udienza II (0883 58 88 30). dropping sheer into the sea.
( Tue. ∑ traniviva.it The façade of Trani’s Duomo The 15th-century Gothic-
Renaissance Palazzo Caccetta,
During the Middle Ages, this church whose predecessor, in Piazza Trieste, is a rare
small, lively whitewashed port the Ipogei di San Leucio, dates survival. Nearby, on Via
bustled with mercantile activity from the 7th century. It is Ognissanti, the 12th-century
and was filled with merchants dedicated to St Nicholas the Romanesque church of the
and traders from Genoa, Amalfi Pilgrim, a little-remembered Ognissanti, the chapel of the
and Pisa. It reached its peak of miracle worker (died 1094) Knights Templar erected in the
prosperity under Frederick II. who was canonized as an act courtyard of their hospital, is
Today it is visited for its of rivalry against the town of notable for its original portico.
Norman Duomo in Piazza Bari, which possessed the Other churches worth a visit are
Duomo, built mainly from bones of another, more Santa Teresa and the monastery
1159 to 1186 over an earlier memorable St Nicholas. The of La Colonna.
w Castel del Monte and he used his castles as Octagonal Graceful,
hunting lodges where he could satellite tower arched
Località Andria, Bari. n Beni Culturali
(0883 56 99 97). Open Apr–Sep: retire from court life with his windows
10:15am–7:15pm daily; Oct–Mar: falcons and books. Inside there
9am–6:30pm daily. Closed are two floors, each with eight
1 Jan, 25 Dec. & ∑ castel rib-vaulted rooms, some still
delmonte.beniculturali.it lined with marble. This, and
the marble
Remote in the mouldings on
endless plains near the entrance
Ruvo di Puglia, and the upper
Castel del Monte, floor, as well as
built in the mid- sophisticated lavatory
Frederick II 13th century, out- arrangements, mark
classes every other the castle
castle associated with Frederick II. as a palace.
It is also one of the most
sophisticated secular buildings
of the Middle Ages. The emperor Thick and
had broad intellectual interests, impenetrable walls


The main entrance portal
Octagonal is in the style of a Roman
courtyard triumphal arch.
Floorplan of the Castle
The building is a harmonious
geometrical study with two storeys of
eight rooms each. The reasons for such
precise planning of this giant octagon
Castel del Monte standing alone on the summit of a low hill remain a mystery to this day.




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514  SOUTHERN IT AL Y

e Ruvo di Puglia Under the Normans, to
whom it fell in 1071,
Bari. * 24,000. V @ n Piazza
Matteotti 31 (080 950 71 11). ( Sat. Bari became a centre of
maritime significance.
Once celebrated for its vases, Today it is Puglia’s
Ruvo di Puglia’s ceramics lively capital and an
industry, producing “Apulian” important port with
ware, flourished until the ferries to and from
2nd century BC. The style was Croatia and Greece.
inspired by the striking red The Basilica di San
and black colours of Attic and Nicola, one of Puglia’s
Corinthian models. The Museo first great Norman
Archeologico Nazionale Jatta churches (begun 1087),
has a good overview. has a plain exterior
The 13th-century Cattedrale with a tall gabled
is a bold example of the section flanked by
Apulian-Romanesque style with towers. The Apulian-
a portal that blends Byzantine, Romanesque portal
Saracenic and Classical motifs. has carving on the
door jambs and arch in
E Museo Archeologico Arabic, Byzantine and
Nazionale Jatta Classical styles. Beyond
Piazza Bovio 35. Tel 080 361 28 48. the choir screen is a Portal detail of Ruvo di Puglia’s Cattedrale
Open 8:30am–1:30pm daily fine 12th-century
(to 7:30pm Thu–Sat). Closed altar canopy and an simplicity. The canopy over
1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 7 episcopal throne the high altar, the pulpit and
∑ palazzojatta.org
(c.11th century). The the episcopal throne are
relics of St Nicholas – reconstructions from fragments
r Bari patron saint of the city of the originals. The sacristy,
(and also of Russia) – built as a baptistry, is known as
* 321,000. k V @ g
n Piazza Aldo Moro 33a are buried in the crypt. the Trulla. The crypt houses the
(080 524 23 61). ( daily. The late 12th-century remains of San Sabino, Bari’s
∑ www.comune.bari.it Sculpture at Apulian-Romanesque original patron saint.
Bari castle Cattedrale is based on The city’s castle, founded
Roman Barium was San Nicola, with a dome by Roger II, was adapted by
simply a commercial centre, but and one surviving tower (the Frederick II in 1233–9. In the
the city became the regional other one collapsed in 1613). vaulted hall is a collection of
capital under the Saracens in The Baroque portals on the plaster casts of sculpture and
847, and was later the seat of façade incorporate 12th-century architectural fragments from
the catapan, the Byzantine doorways. The interior has been various Romanesque
governor of southern Italy. restored to its medieval monuments in the region.






















Bari castle, in the old district known as Città Vecchia
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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ABRUZZ O , MOLISE AND PUGLIA  515

t Alberobello
Bari. * 11,000. V to Alberobello
& Ostuni. n Piazza Ferdinando IV
(080 432 51 71). 8 in English,
French and German offered by Trulli
e Natura. _ Oct/Nov: Frantoi Aperti
(visits to the major olive-pressing
factories).
The parched landscape of the
Murge dei Trulli features olive
groves, vineyards and trulli.
Strange circular buildings with
conical roofs and domed within,
trulli are built from local
limestone stacked without
using mortar. The walls and
openings are generally
whitewashed, while the stone
roof tiles often have religious,
pagan or magical symbols
painted on them. The origins of
trulli are obscure, though the
name is traditionally applied to
ancient round tombs found in Whitewashed and sun-baked trulli in Alberobello
the Roman countryside.
Most trulli are souvenir shops. been expanded to allow for E Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Alberobello is a UNESCO a growing collection of Via Cavour 10. Tel 0994 53 21 12.
World Heritage Site and the trulli historically significant pieces. Open 8:30am–7:30pm daily. &
capital. Here the strange white Taranto was heavily bombed
buildings crowd the narrow in World War II and is garlanded
streets, and there are trulli by factories. The rundown The Tarantella
restaurants, shops and but picturesque Città Italy’s lively and graceful folk
even a trulli cathedral. Vecchia, an island dance, the
dividing the Mare Tarantella,
Environs Grande from the Mare grew out of
The pretty white- Piccolo, was the site tarantism –
washed hill- town of of the Roman citadel the hysteria that
Locorotondo is an of Tarentum. A lively appeared in 15th-
important wine centre. fish market offering the to 17th-century Italy,
The elegant streets of shellfish for which the city and was prevalent in Galatina
Martina Franca are is famous, is housed in an (see p517). Alleged victims
of the tarantula spider’s
enlivened by Rococo Art Nouveau building. bite could supposedly cure
balconies. The Aphrodite in Here, too, is the Duomo. themselves through frenzied
spectacular Grotte di museum in Founded in 1071, it dancing, which sweated out
Castellana are caves Taranto has been the object of the poison. The dance is
estimated to be sub sequent rebuilding. characterized by light, quick
50 million years old. The most interesting features steps and a “teasing” flirt. The
include the catacomb-like strange, private ritual takes
crypt, with its sarcophagi place annually on 29 June at
y Taranto and fragmented frescoes, 6am at the celebrations for the
and the antique marble Feast of Saints Peter and Paul
* 200,000. V @ n Corso in Galatina, the only place on
Umberto I (099 453 23 92). ( Wed, columns of the nave. Behind the Salentine Peninsula where
Fri & Sat. ∑ www.comune.taranto.it it is the 11th-century San
Domenico Maggiore, which tarantism has survived.
Little remains of the old city of later gained a high double-
Taras, founded by Spartans in approach Baroque stair case.
708 BC and at its most The huge castle built by
prosperous in the mid-4th Frederick of Aragon (15th
century BC. The Museo century) covers the eastern
Archeologico Na zionale, corner of the Città Vecchia.
founded in 1887, has artifacts Now a military area, the castle
that shed light on the region’s can only be visited on daily
history. The museum has since guided tours (free of charge).




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516  SOUTHERN IT AL Y

u Street-by-Street: Lecce

Lecce was the site of the Greek Messapi
settlement. It became an important centre of
the Roman Empire, and in the Middle Ages
developed a strong tradition of scholarship.
Much of the architecture is in the highly
decorative Lecce Baroque style, which flourished
in the 1600s and earned the city the name of
Florence of the South. This style was possible
due to the pietra di Lecce, an easily carved . Palazzo Vescovile and Duomo
The bishop’s palace (rebuilt in 1632),
stone. Giuseppe Zimbalo (Lo Zingarello) was the adjoining Duomo by Lo V I A U M B E R TO I
its greatest master. Lecce is also famed for its Zingarello (after 1659) and a
papier-mâché workshops. seminary (1709) enclose the
Piazza Duomo.
Tourist
information
Key PIAZZA
CASTROMEDIANO
Suggested route

0 metres 100
0 yards 100 V I A RU B I C H I


PIAZZA
SANT ORONZO
,





Chiesa del Rosario
Said to be the finest work
by Lo Zingarello (begun ,
1691), the exterior PIAZZA VIA D ARAGONA
is ornate and
idiosyncratic DUOMO VIA PALADINI
Porta Rudiae in its detail. V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E V I A L E C C E
This 18th-century city gate
leads to the suburbs and to
the ruins of Roman Rudiae. VICOLO SANTA

V I A G I U S E P P E L I B E R T I N I VENERA VIA MARCO BASSEO Railway
VIA MORELLI
station






The Seminary once
Famous papier-mâché supplied the Vatican with V I A R . C A R A C C I O L O
(carta pesta) workshops castrato singers – eunuchs V I A G C I N O
noted for their high voices.
Chiesa del Carmine
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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ABRUZZ O , MOLISE AND PUGLIA  517


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 105,000. n Via Vittorio
Emanuele 23 (0832 68 29 85), Via
Monte San Michele 20 (0832 31
41 17). _ 24–26 Aug: Sant’
Oronzo; 13– 24 Dec: Fiera dei Pupi Detail of a 15th-century fresco in Santa
e Pastori. ∑ ilecce.it Caterina d’Alessandria
Transport
V Viale Oronzo Quarta. i Galatina
@ Via Boito & Via Adua.
Lecce. * 28,000. V @ n Sala
dell’Orologio (0836 56 99 84). ( Thu.
. Santa Croce _ 29 Jun: Feast of Saints Peter & Paul.
Built 1549–1679, this church was The 16th-century ∑ www.comune.galatina.le.it
begun by Gabriele Riccardi; the Castello
V I A U M B E R TO I
rose window is by Lo Zingarello. lies between ancient An important Greek colony in
Next door is the ex-convent of city and modern the Middle Ages, this città d’arte
the Celestines. suburbs. A 12th-century (city of art, a status given by the
construction is enclosed
PIAZZA
CASTROMEDIANO by a wall built later by region) retains its Greek flavour.
It is the centre of one of Puglia’s
Charles V. Only one floor
chief wine-producing regions,
is open to the public.
although it is more famous for
the ritual of tarantism (see p515).
The Gothic church of Santa
Caterina d’Alessandria (begun
1384) on Piazza Orsini contains
early 15th-century frescoes with
scenes from the Old and New
SANT ORONZO Testaments that glorify the
PIAZZA
,
Orsini, who were feudal lords.
V I A A G R A N D I
V I A L E X X V LU G L I O
Colonna di
Sant’Oronzo o Otranto
Church of St Oronzo was
San Matteo appointed Bishop of Lecce. * 5,500. V @ g n Piazza
Lecce by St Paul in Castello (0836 84 14 36). ( Wed.
AD 57, and later martyred ∑ www.comune.otranto.le.it
by the Roman emperor
, Nero. This bronze statue Otranto was one of Republican
dates from 1739. Rome’s leading ports for trade
with Asia Minor and Greece,
and under the Byzantines was
VIA D ARAGONA
V I A L E C C E an important toehold of the
Eastern Empire in Italy. In 1070
VIA PALADINI
it fell to the Normans.
Turks attacked in 1480
and slaughtered its
inhabi tants. The 800
survivors were promised
their lives if they
Railway renounced Christianity:
station
A Roman theatre all refused.
was excavated The Norman Duomo
virtually intact (founded 1080) on Via
with its orchestra Duomo houses the
and seats. bones of the martyrs.
There is a 12th-century
mosaic floor and a fine
crypt. A castle (1485–98)
built by the Aragonese
V I A R . C A R A C C I O L O
Roman Amphitheatre at the centre of town
Excavated in 1938, only part adds to Otranto’s charm,
of this 1st-century-BC and there are some fine
amphitheatre is visible. beaches close by.
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518-519_EW_Italy.indd 518 26/04/16 5:20 pm

SOUTHERN IT AL Y  519

BASILICATA AND

CALABRIA


Remote and wild, Basilicata is one of the poorest regions
in Italy. It is underdeveloped and undervisited, and rural
areas remain unspoiled. Neighbouring Calabria has been
immortalized in the drawings of Edward Lear, who, travelling
through on a donkey in 1847, was transfixed by the “horror
and magnificence” of its savage landscape.

Today these regions are distinctly separate, Centuries of rule by Naples led to the
but they share a common his tory and, marginalization of Basilicata and Calabria.
along with Sicily and Puglia, were part of Nowadays Calabria has an infamous
Magna Graecia. Ancient Metaponto in reputation due to the ’Ndrangheta, the
Basilicata was an important centre, as were ferocious first cousin to the Mafia, whose
Crotone and Locri Epizephiri in Calabria. activities are a constant menace. Banditry
Their ruins evoke an illustrious past. exists, but the sensible trav eller should
After the Greeks came the Romans, have little to fear.
followed by Basilian monks. These were Owing to emigration, Basilicata and
members of the Greek-Byzantine church Calabria are sparsely populated and have as
who were fleeing their territories which much to offer in unspoiled countryside as in
had been invaded by Muslims. Their historic centres. The vast coastline boasts
religious establishments make up a core fine beaches, while the interior features the
of interesting monuments, such as the Aspromonte and Sila mountain ranges.
Cattolica at Stilo and Matera, where The remote landscape has kept change at
the monks took refuge in caves. bay. Isolated Pentedattilo, for example,
Many of the historic remains are Norman, preserves customs of Byzantine origin, while
but sporadic evidence of the Swabian, around San Giorgio Albanese there live
Angevin, Aragonese and Spanish close-knit communities of Albanians,
occupation still exists. descended from 15th-century refugees.























Sparsely populated, rugged countryside surrounding Stilo in southern Calabria
Traditional white houses nestled among the hills of il Dirupo, Pisticci



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520  southern it al y

Exploring Basilicata and Calabria Foggia Lavello

Mostly upland country, Basilicata (or lucania, as it is MELFI VENOSA
also known) is scattered with Greek ruins (like those at Rionero in Vulture
Metaponto), medieval abbeys and norman castles (such Forenza Bari
as Melfi’s). Matera, its most interesting city, stands amid LAGOPESOLE Acerenza
an arid lunar landscape of denuded valleys. Calabria is Ruoti Irsina
often described as the land between two seas. the lovely Napoli La Martella
beaches and virgin landscape between tropea and Potenza Tricario MATERA
Maratea attract many visitors. the ionian coast’s chief Tito Garaguso Montescaglioso
attractions are its Greek ruins, including locri epizephiri, Anzi Ferrandina
and hill-towns, such as stilo and Gerace. Marsico Nuovo B A S I L I C A T A Bernalda Taranto
Corleto Perticara Stigliano Craco
Aliano Cavone
Grumento Nova METAPONTO
Agri
Tursi Scanzano
Monte Raparo
Key 1761m Sinni
Lagonegro Senise
Motorway Monti Sirino Rocca Imperiale
Rivello 2005m
Major road Oriolo Montegiordano Marina
Lauria Latronico
Secondary road MARATEA Monte Caramola Amendolara
1524m
Minor road
Praia a Mare Monte Pollino
Scenic route 2248m
Main railway Scalea Lao Castrovillari Trebisacce
Monte Caramolo Golf o di
Minor railway 1827m Cassano allo Ionio
T ar anto
Regional border Spezzano
Diamante Montea Corigliano
Summit 1785m Calabro Capo Trionto
Repairing nets in the town of Pizzo, Cittadella del Capo San Marco ROSSANO
Argentano
northeast of Tropea Cetraro Acri Cariati
Punta Fiume Nicà
Serra Pantanolata
1404m Rose Campana
Paola Sila Grande Cirò Marina
San Lucido CALABRIA Umbriatico
Cosenza
Longobardi Marina L a S i l a San Giovanni Strongoli
in Fiore
Rogliano
Amantea Monte Gariglione Petilia Crotone
1765m
Policastro
Campora S. Giovanni
Monte Mancuso Capo
1328m Taverna Cutro Colonna
O Nicastro
N Golfo di Lamezia Catanzaro Capo Rizzuto
E Sant Eufemia Terme
R Girifalco Golfo
R Pizzo di Squillace
I
T TROPEA Vibo Soverato
Valentia
The picturesque hill-town of Rivello, north of Maratea in Basilicata Mileto Davoli O
R Nicotera Serra S. Bruno I
Sights at a Glance A Golfo Rosarno Fabrizia N
1 Melfi M di Gioia L e S e r r e STILO O
2 Venosa Gioia Tauro Punta Stilo I
3 Lagopesole Palmi Polistena Riace Marina
4 Matera Bagnara Calabra R
5 Metaponto GERACE A
Locri
6 Maratea Messina Locri Epizefiri M
7 Rossano Aspromonte
8 Tropea Monti Peloritani REGGIO DI Bovalino Marina
CALABRIA
9 Stilo Pellaro Staiti
0 Gerace Lazzaro
q Reggio di Calabria Stracia
For additional map symbols see back flap
520-521_EW_Italy.indd 520 20/03/15 10:50 am
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Date 6th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

basilic a t a and c alabria  521

Foggia
Lavello
MELFI
VENOSA
Rionero in Vulture
Forenza
Bari
LAGOPESOLE Acerenza
Ruoti Irsina
La Martella
Napoli Potenza Tricario MATERA
Tito Montescaglioso
Anzi Garaguso
Ferrandina
Marsico Nuovo B A S I L I C A T A Bernalda Taranto
Corleto Perticara Stigliano Craco
Aliano Cavone
Grumento Nova METAPONTO
Agri The port of Maratea on the Tyrrhenian coast of Basilicata
Tursi Scanzano
Monte Raparo Sinni
1761m
Lagonegro Monti Sirino Senise
Rivello 2005m Rocca Imperiale Getting Around
Oriolo Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coast is well served by
Lauria Latronico Montegiordano Marina
Monte Caramola the A3–E45, a spur of which extends to
MARATEA 1524m Amendolara Potenza in Basilicata. To reach the Ionian coast,
Praia a Mare Monte Pollino it is best to skirt the Aspromonte via the S106–
2248m
Scalea Lao Castrovillari Trebisacce E90 from Reggio to Basilicata. Although the
mountains can be crossed, namely on the
Monte Caramolo Golf o di
1827m Cassano allo Ionio S280–E848 to Catanzaro, the roads are narrow
T ar anto
Spezzano and pass through isolated countryside. Much
Diamante Montea Corigliano of Basilicata is even less accessible, and Matera
1785m Calabro Capo Trionto
Cittadella del Capo San Marco ROSSANO is more easily reached from Puglia. There are
airports at Reggio di Calabria, Lamezia Terme
Argentano
Cetraro Acri Cariati (west of Catanzaro), Crotone, Bari and Brindisi
Punta Fiume Nicà
Serra Pantanolata (Puglia). Trains connect the bigger centres and
1404m Rose Campana country buses serve the small towns.
Paola Sila Grande Cirò Marina
San Lucido CALABRIA Umbriatico
Cosenza
Longobardi Marina L a S i l a San Giovanni Strongoli
in Fiore
Rogliano
Amantea Monte Gariglione Petilia Crotone
1765m
Policastro
Campora S. Giovanni
Monte Mancuso Capo
1328m Taverna Cutro Colonna
O Nicastro
N Golfo di Lamezia Catanzaro Capo Rizzuto
E Sant Eufemia Terme
R Girifalco Golfo
R Pizzo di Squillace
I
T TROPEA Vibo Soverato
Valentia
Mileto Davoli O
R Nicotera Serra S. Bruno I
A Golfo Rosarno N
M di Gioia Fabrizia STILO O
Gioia Tauro L e S e r r e Punta Stilo I
Palmi Polistena Riace Marina
Bagnara Calabra R
GERACE
Locri
Messina Locri Epizefiri M A
Monti Peloritani REGGIO DI Bovalino Marina
Aspromonte
CALABRIA
Pellaro
Staiti
Lazzaro Stracia 0 kilometres 50
0 miles 25 The countryside near Miglionico, south of Matera
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522  SOUTHERN IT AL Y






















The impressive castle at Melfi, showing evidence of both Angevin and later construction
1 Melfi survive in the archaeological zone represent Frederick Barbarossa
along Via Vittorio Emanuele. (grandfather of Frederick II)
Potenza. * 18,000. V @ n Piazza
Umberto I (0972 23 97 51). ( Wed & It was also the birth place of the and Barbarossa’s wife, Beatrice.
Sat. ∑ aptbasilicata.it Latin poet Horace (65 BC–8 BC) Inside, the royal apartments and
and the site where the Roman chapel can be visited.
A brooding and now almost general Marcellus died at the
deserted medieval town, Melfi hands of Hannibal in 208 BC.
is crowned by the castle where Marcellus’ reputed tomb is in Via
Pope Nicholas II conducted Melfi. For more treasures, visit the
Robert Guiscard’s investiture Museo Archeologico Nazionale.
in 1059, thus legitimizing the The Duomo, also on Via
Normans in the south. Melfi Vittorio Emanuele, and the huge
later became the Norman capital. castle in Piazza Umberto I, date
Here Frederick II proclaimed his from the 16th century.
Constitutiones Augustales (1231), An abbey complex formed
which unified his kingdom as a by an older, possibly early
state. In the castle is the Museo Christian (5th–6th century)
Nazionale del Melfese, with its church, La Trinità is backed by
collection of Byzantine jewellery. an unfinished 11th-century
The Duomo, off Via Vittorio construction, in which Robert
Emanuele, was begun in 1155 Guiscard (died 1085) was buried
by William the Bad but rebuilt with his half-brothers and The Sassi district of Matera
in the 18th century. Only the Alberada, his first wife. Only
campanile survives. her tomb has survived. 4 Matera
* 56,900. V @ n Via de Viti de
E Museo Archeologico E Museo Archeologico Marco 9 (0835 33 19 83). 8 329 791
Nazionale del Melfese Nazionale 70 56. ( Sat. ∑ materaturismo.it
Castello di Melfi, Via Castello. Tel 0972 Piazza Castello. Tel 0972 360 95. Open
23 87 26. Open 9am–8pm daily (from 9am–8pm daily (from 2pm Tue). & Perched on the edge of a deep
2pm Mon). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & ravine, this town consists of the
7 8 (Sat & Sun). bustling upper district and the
3 Lagopesole silent, lower Sassi (caves) district,
divided into the Sasso Barisano
2 Venosa Potenza. Tel 0971 860 83. V to and the more pic t uresque Sasso
Lagopesole Scalo, then bus to town.
Potenza. * 12,200. V @ Open 9:30am–1pm, 4–7pm daily Caveoso. The people of Matera
n Piazza Castello 47 (0972 316 09). (3– 5pm in winter). ∑ aptbasilicata.it once lived here in dwellings
( 1st & 3rd Thu of month. scooped out of the rock. The two
∑ comune.venosa.pz.it Rising dramatically on a hill, parts are odd neighbours, making
Lagopesole’s castle (1242–50) Matera a truly fascinating city.
Venosa was one of the most was the last castle built by For the best overview, walk
important Roman colonies Frederick II. The interesting along the Strada Panoramica
around 290 BC, and remains of carved heads above the dei Sassi and look down into
baths and an amphitheatre portal of the keep are said to the caves. From the 8th to the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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Date 14th November 2012
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BASILIC A T A AND C ALABRIA  523


13th centuries, such caves Archaeological Zone. Further
probably provided refuge for south, modern Policoro occupies
monks from the Byzantine what was ancient Heracleia
empire. Many chapels, gouged (founded 7th–5th century BC). Its
out of the rock, were taken over Museo Nazionale della Siritide
in the 15th century by peasants. has finds from this and other sites.
Later, a cave-dwelling Matera
evolved and by the 18th century E Museo Nazionale di
some buildings fronting the Metaponto
caves had become fairly grand Via Aristea 21. Tel 0835 74 53 27.
mansions and convents. By the Open 9am–8pm daily (from 2pm
1950s and 1960s, the Sassi were Mon). Closed pub hols. & includes
overtaken by squalor and poverty, Archaeological Zone.
and the inhabitants forcibly E Museo Nazionale della Siritide
rehoused. Carlo Levi (1912–75) The Tavole Palatine in Metaponto Via Colombo 8, Policoro. Tel 0835 97 21
drew attention to their living 54. Open 9am–7pm daily (from 2pm
conditions in his book Christ 5 Metaponto Tue). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. &
Stopped at Eboli, comparing the Metaponto Borgo. @ V to
Sassi to Dante’s Inferno. The area Metaponto. n Via Apollo Licio.
was made a UNESCO World Open 9am–1 hr before sun set daily. 6 Maratea
Heritage Site in 1993. Closed Mon am, 1 Jan, Easter, 25 Dec. Potenza. * 5,200. V @ n Piazza
Of the 120 chiese rupestri (rock- & 7 ∑ aptbasilicata.it del Gesù 32 (0973 87 69 08). ( 1st &
cut churches; www.parcomurgia. 3rd Sat of month.
it) in the Sassi and the Agri district Founded in the 7th century BC,
outside the town, Santa Maria di ancient Metaponto was once A tiny stretch of Basilicata meets
Idris in the Monte Errone area the centre of a wealthy city-state the Tyrrhenian Sea in the Gulf of
and Santa Lucia alle Malve with a philosophical tradition Policastro. This unblemished
in the Albanian quarter expounded by Pythagoras, coast is home to Maratea. Its
both contain 13th- who settled here after his small port (Maratea Inferiore) is
century frescoes. expulsion from beneath the old centre (Maratea
The Museo della Croton. Its ruins Superiore), which straddles the
Tortura (torture), in include the Tavole flank of a hill. From here the
Via San Biagio, has Palatine (6th century road climbs Monte Biagio to a
exhibits dating back BC) at the Bradano summit with breathtaking
to the time of the River bridge, 15 views, where a huge statue of
Inquisition, while columns that are the Redeemer stands.
the Museo Nazionale Church of San part of a Doric
Ridola provides a Francesco in Matera temple, probably dedi- Environs
background to Matera ca ted to Hera. The Dramatically sited Rivello, 23 km
and the Sassi. The artifacts from Museo Nazionale di Metaponto (14 miles) to the north, once had
many Neolithic trench villages, displays artifacts from the site. a largely Greek population.
necropolises and other ancient The ruins of a theatre and the Byzantine influences can be seen
sites are displayed here. Doric Temple of Apollo Lycius in the churches of Santa Maria
The Apulian-Romanesque (6th century BC) are in the del Poggio and Santa Barbara.
Duomo (13th century), in Piazza
Duomo, has a 12th-century
painting of the Madonna della
Bruna, the patro ness of Matera.
Via Duomo leads toward San
Francesco d’Assisi (13th century
with Baroque over lay). Other
churches to visit are San
Domenico and San Gio vanni
Battista on Via San Biagio (both
13th century), and the Purgatorio
(1770) on Via Ridola.
Matera is where Mel Gibson’s
The Passion of the Christ (2004)
was largely filmed.
E Museo Nazionale Ridola
Via Ridola 24. Tel 0835 31 00 58.
Open 9am–8pm daily (from 2pm
Mon). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & The small port of Marina di Maratea with fishing boats




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524  SOUTHERN IT AL Y

8 Tropea a ledge looking out over the
olive trees is the Cattolica,
Vibo Valentia. * 6,700. V @
n Piazza Ercole (0963 614 75). which has made Stilo a focus
( Sat. ∑ tropea.biz of pilgrimage for lovers of
Byzantine architecture. Built in
One of the most picturesque the 10th century by Basilian
towns on Calabria’s largely built- monks, the brick building with
up Tyrrhenian coast, Tropea offers its terracotta-tiled roof is based
superb views of the sea and on a Greek cross-in-a-square
beaches. The old town hangs on plan. Four antique, mis matched
to a cliffside facing a large rock, marble columns divide the
formerly an island. The rock is interior into nine sections.
topped by Santa Maria dell’Isola, The capitals are placed at the
a former medieval Benedictine base of the columns, instead of
sanctuary. The cathedral at the on top, to indicate the triumph
end of Via Roma is of Norman of Christianity over paganism.
A page from the precious Codex origin, although it has been The frescoes within, discovered
Purpureus Rossanensis rebuilt several times. Inside is and restored in 1927, date from
a 14th-century painting, the the 11th century.
7 Rossano Madonna di Romania, by an The Cattolica dominates the
unknown artist. town, but on Via Tommaso
Cosenza. * 39,000. V @ n Piazza
Steri (393 492 52 12 91); Lungomare Casa Trampo (14th century) Campanella there is a medi eval
di Sant’Angelo (390 983 03 07 60). and Palazzo Cesareo (early 20th Duomo as well as the 17th-
( 2nd & 4th Fri of month. century) in Vicolo Manco are the century ruins of the Convent of
∑ rossanoturismo.it most interesting of the small San Domenico, where the
palaces in Tropea. The latter has philosopher and Dominican friar
This pretty hill-town was one of a splendid balcony adorned Tommaso Campanella (1568–
the main centres of Byzantine with carvings. 1639) lived. The church of San
civilization in Calabria. It assumed Below the town are pretty Francesco, built around 1400,
power when Reggio di Calabria beaches and a good choice of has an ornate carved wooden
fell to the Saracens (9th–11th places to eat. Other seaside altar and a lovely 16th-century
centuries). The Museo Diocesano towns to visit are Scilla to the painting of the Madonna del
houses the Codex Purpureus south and Pizzo to the north. Borgo (unknown origin). Bivongi,
Rossanensis, a rare 6th-century northwest of Stilo, has two
Greek Gospel with silver lettering churches dedicated to St John:
and intricate miniatures. 9 Stilo the Byzantine-Norman San
The Baroque cathedral contains Reggio di Calabria. * 3,000. @ Giovanni Theristis, and the
the Madonna Achiropita fresco, a n Town hall (0964 77 60 06). ( Tue. Norman San Giovanni Vecchio.
much venerated Byzantine relic
of the 8th or 9th century. A short distance from the coast, R Cattolica
Stilo is an earthquake-damaged 2 km (1 mile) above Stilo on Via
Environs town clamped to the side of Cattolica. Tel 0965 81 22 56.

On a hilltop to the southeast is Monte Consolino. Standing on Open Mon–Sat. & 7
the five-domed Greek church of
San Marco (10th century). The
12th-century Panaghia, another
Greek church, lies off Via
Archivescovado. Both contain
fragments of early frescoes.
Santa Maria del Patire, on
a hilltop 18 km (11 miles) to the
west, is magnificently adorned
with coloured brickwork, tile
and stone. It offers great views
over the Piana di Sibari (Plain of
Sibari), the alleged location of
the fabled city of Sybaris,
destroyed in 510 BC.

E Museo Diocesano
Palazzo Arcivescovile, Via Arcivesco-
vado 5. Tel 0983 52 52 63. Open
9:30am–12:30pm, 3–6pm Tue–Sun,
10am–noon, 4–6pm public hols. & The beautiful and unspoiled coastline at Tropea
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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BASILIC A T A AND C ALABRIA  525

q Reggio di
Calabria
* 183,000. k V @ g
n Station. ( Fri.
∑ turismo.reggiocal.it
One reason to visit Reggio di
Calabria, which was heavily
rebuilt after a major earthquake
in 1908, is the Museo Nazionale
della Magna Grecia. It houses
a fine collection of artifacts
from ancient Rhegion – a
Greek city on the site of the
present town – and from other
Greek sites.
Chief among its treasures are
the Greek bronzes, larger­than­
life statues of warriors dredged
from the sea off Riace Marina
in 1972. Statue A (460 BC) is
thought to be by Phidias, the
Athenian sculptor and chief
exponent of the idealizing,
Classical style. If true, it is a rare
survivor, because his works
were hitherto only known to us
from Roman copies. Statue B
The distinctive five-domed Cattolica in Stilo (430 BC) has been attributed
to Polyclitus. It is possible that
0 Gerace Epizephiri. At the end of Via the statues origi nated from
Cavour is 12th­century San an Athenian shrine at Delphi
Reggio di Calabria. * 3,000. @
n Pro Loco, Via Regina Margherita Giovanello, part Byzantine and built to celebrate the victory
77, Locri (0964 23 27 60). part Norman. Nearby is the of Marathon.
∑ comune.gerace.rc.it Gothic church of San Francesco
d’Assisi, which contains a E Museo Nazionale della
Occupying a crag on the north­ Baroque marble altar (1615) and Magna Grecia
eastern flank of the Aspromonte, the Pisan­style tomb of Niccolò Piazza de Nava 26. Tel 0965 81 22 55.
Gerace was founded by refugees Ruffo (died 1372), a member of Open 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sun.
from Locri Epizephiri who fled in a prominent Calabrian family. & 8 7
the 9th century to escape
Saracen attack. Its defensive Environs
character is reinforced by the The vast site of Locri Epizephiri,
medieval town walls and the the first Greek city to have a
remains of the castle. written code of law (660 BC), was
Apart from the slow pace of a famous centre of the cult of
life here – where you are as Perse phone. There are remains
likely to meet a flock of sheep in of temples, a theatre and
an alley as a Fiat 500 – the main Greek and Roman tombs. The
attraction is Calabria’s grandest Museo Nazionale displays a
Duomo. This large structure ground plan of the site, as
indicates the significance of well as Greek and Roman
Gerace at least up to the time votive statues, coins and
of the Normans. Constructed sculptural fragments.
around the early 12th century,
rebuilt in the 13th century and T Locri Epizephiri
restored in the 18th century, the Southwest of Locri on the SS 106,
crypt is its chief treasure. Both Contrada Marasà. Open 9am–7pm
crypt and church are simple, Tue–Sun. ∑ locriantica.it
adorned by a series of antique E Museo Nazionale
coloured marble and granite Contrada Marasà, SS 106.
columns probably stolen from Tel 0964 39 00 23. Open Tue–Sun. Riace bronzes (6th and 5th century BC) in
the site of ancient Locri Closed 1 May, 25 Dec. Reggio’s Museo Nazionale




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Regional opener template “UK” LAYER
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Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SOUTHERN IT AL Y  527

SICILY


On a crossroads in the Mediterranean, part of Europe
and Africa, yet belonging to neither, Sicily was tramped
across by half the ancient civilized world. As conquerors
came and went, they left behind elements of their
culture, resulting in the rich and varied mixture that
typifies every aspect of Sicilian life, from language,
customs and cooking to art and, most notably, the
architecture of the island.

During the 6th and 5th centuries BC, elaborate ritual of the Spanish Viceregal
there cannot have been much difference court, tend towards extravagant display.
between Athens and the Greek cities of At Noto, Ragusa, Modica, Siracusa and
Sicily. Their ruins are among the most Catania the buildings are a useful vehicle
spectacular of the ancient Greek world. for the Sicilians’ love of ornamentation,
The Romans took over in the 3rd century itself a remnant from the island’s early fling
BC, followed by the Vandals, Ostrogoths with the Arab world. The style is an
and Byzantines. Not much that is tangible expression of the nature of Sicilians, whose
has survived from the days of the Arabs, sense of pomp and pageantry is both
who ruled from the 9th to 11th centuries, magnificent and extreme.
though Palermo’s Vucciria is more souk Sicily is a curiosity, and the legacy of the
than market. The Norman era, beginning past is redolent everywhere. The fact that
in 1061, spawned brilliant artistic it is an island has intensified the cultural
achievements, such as the cathedrals of impact of each successive occupier. They
Monreale and Cefalù, while the eclecticism say that today there’s as much Phoenician,
of that period’s architecture is best seen at Greek, Arabic, Norman, Spanish or French
Santi Pietro e Paolo outside Taormina. blood in Sicilian veins as there is Italian.
The Sicilian Baroque of the 17th and 18th The resulting mixture – exotic, spicy and
centuries is just as individual. The palaces highly inflammable – has created a distinct
and churches of Palermo, reflecting the culture at the foot of Italy.























Detail of a 12th-century mosaic from the Palazzo dei Normanni in Palermo
The fishing harbour in the town of Cefalù on a clear summer evening



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528  S ou T h E r n i TA L y

Exploring Sicily

The vast coastline of Sicily (Sicilia) provides hundreds
of long, sandy beaches, particularly at Taormina and
Isola
the Golfo di Castellammare by San Vito Lo Capo – Isola Salina Isola
Panarea
part of a large nature reserve. Sicily’s varied interior Filicudi Malfa
is characterized by remote hill-towns and plains Alicudi
Isola
Isola
punctuated by mountain ranges known for spring Lipari Lipari
flowers and wildlife. Among the most famous sights is I s o l e E o l i e
Mount Etna, an active volcano whose lava flows over Isola
the centuries have fertilized the Fishermen at work in their boats at Siracusa Vulcano Capo Peloro
land, which supports an M A R T I R R E N O Capo di Milazzo Golfo di
Milazzo
Capo
abundance of walnut Gallo Milazzo MESSINA
trees, citrus groves San Vito Lo Capo Capo Punta Raisi Capo d’Orlando TINDARI
Monti Peloritani
San Vito
and vineyards. Golfo di PALERMO
Castellammare Carini Capo Zafferano Naso Patti Barcellona
Pozza
ERICE Monte Spáragio MONREALE BAGHERIA Sant'Agata di Militello di Gotto Itala Stretto di Messina
1110m
Isola di
Levanzo TRAPANI Castellammare Partinico Misilmeri Termini CEFALÙ Torremuzzo San Fratello Tortorici Pizzo di Vernà Ali Terme
del Golfo
Isola Paceco Imerese 1286m Mandanici
Marettimo SEGESTA Alcamo Floresta
Isola Castelbuono Mistretta
Favignana Villafrati Collesano M o n t i N e b r o d i
Monte Soro
Calatafimi Camporeale Ciminna Pizzo Carbonara 1847m Alcántara
Isole dello 1975m Gole dell'Alcantara
Stagnone Roccamena Torto Monte Castelli Capizzi Randazzo
1567m
I s o l e E g a d i
Tabaccaro Salemi Corleone M a d o n i e Linguaglossa TAORMINA
Capo Schisò
MARSALA Val di Mázara Pizzo Cangialoso Lercara Friddi Petralia Gangi Troina Bronte MOUNT Riposto O
Alia
Castelvetrano Belice Partanna Bisacquino 1457m Prizzi Vallelunga Alimena Nicosia Salso Simeto ETNA Giarre N I
Mazara del Vallo Pizzo Stagnataro Pratameno Agira Adrano
1346m SICILIA O
Campobello di Mazara Menfi Burgio Leonforte Belpasso Acireale I
G allo d’O ro
Capo Granitola SELINUNTE Caltabellotta Verdura Cianciana Mussomeli S. Caterina ENNA Paternò Aci Castello
Misterbianco
Valguarnera
Sciacca Ribera Milena Caltanissetta Monti Erei Dittaino CATANIA R
Caropepe
Platani Aragona Pietraperzia Gornalunga A
P i ana
Racalmuto
Capo Bianco Raffadali Canicattì Barrafranca PIAZZA ARMERINA di Cata n i a Golfo di M
Catania
Favara Sommatino Palagonia
Sights at a Glance AGRIGENTO Naro Mazzarino Mineo Lentini Capo Campolato
1 Palermo pp530–33 q Piazza Armerina Ravanusa Caltagirone Francofonte Capo Santa Croce
2 Monreale pp534–5 w Enna Gela Melilli Augusta
M A R M E D I T E R R A N E
Palma di
3 Bagheria e Tindari O Montechiaro Butera Grammichele Monti Iblei Sortino Golfo di
Augusta
4 Trapani r Messina Niscemi Vizzini PANTALICA Anapo Castel Eurialo
5 Erice t Taormina Chiaramonte Floridia SIRACUSA
6 Marsala y Mount Etna Gela Gulfi Palazzolo
7 Segesta u Catania Golfo Acreide Canicattini Capo Murro
Bagni
di Porco
8 Selinunte i Pantalica di Gela V a l d i N o t o
9 Cefalù o Siracusa Vittoria Ragusa Avola
0 Agrigento p Noto Scoglitti Comiso Modica NOTO
Irminio Golfo
Scicli Rosolini di Noto
Capo Scaramia Ispica
Getting Around Pachino
The A19–E932 links Palermo and Catania, Punta Religione Pozzallo
the A18–E45 Catania and Messina, and the Punta delle Formiche
A20–E90 Palermo and Messina. The west is
accessible from Palermo on the A29–E90.
Ferry routes run from Messina to Reggio
di Calabria, and from Palermo to Genoa or
Naples. Between the larger towns, train
services are efficient, but for smaller towns
the buses are better. Catania, Palermo and
Trapani have international airports. The magnificent temple at Segesta
For additional map symbols see back flap
528-529_EW_Italy.indd 528 19/03/15 12:19 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Explorer template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.2)
Date 6th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

sicil y  529






Isola Isola
Isola Salina Panarea
Filicudi Malfa
Isola
Alicudi Isola Lipari
Lipari
I s o l e E o l i e
Isola The Norman Duomo in Palermo
Vulcano
M A R T I R R E N O Capo di Milazzo Golfo di Capo Peloro
Milazzo
Capo
Gallo Milazzo MESSINA
Capo
Monti Peloritani
San Vito Lo Capo San Vito Punta Raisi Capo d’Orlando TINDARI
Golfo di PALERMO
Castellammare Carini Capo Zafferano Naso Patti Barcellona
Pozza
ERICE Monte Spáragio MONREALE BAGHERIA Sant'Agata di Militello di Gotto Itala Stretto di Messina
1110m
Isola di
Levanzo TRAPANI Castellammare Partinico Misilmeri Termini CEFALÙ Torremuzzo San Fratello Tortorici Pizzo di Vernà Ali Terme
del Golfo
Isola Paceco Imerese 1286m Mandanici
Marettimo SEGESTA Alcamo Floresta
Isola Castelbuono Mistretta
Favignana Villafrati Collesano M o n t i N e b r o d i
Monte Soro
Calatafimi Camporeale Ciminna Pizzo Carbonara 1847m Alcántara
Isole dello 1975m Gole dell'Alcantara
Stagnone Roccamena Torto Monte Castelli Capizzi Randazzo
1567m
Tabaccaro Salemi Corleone M a d o n i e Linguaglossa TAORMINA
I s o l e E g a d i
Capo Schisò
Alia
MARSALA Val di Mázara Pizzo Cangialoso Lercara Friddi Petralia Gangi Troina Bronte MOUNT Riposto O
Castelvetrano Belice Partanna Bisacquino 1457m Prizzi Vallelunga Alimena Nicosia Salso Simeto ETNA Giarre N I
Mazara del Vallo Pizzo Stagnataro Pratameno Agira Adrano
1346m SICILIA O
Campobello di Mazara Menfi Burgio Leonforte Belpasso Acireale I
G allo d’O ro
Capo Granitola SELINUNTE Caltabellotta Verdura Cianciana Mussomeli S. Caterina ENNA Paternò Aci Castello
Misterbianco
Valguarnera
Sciacca Ribera Milena Caltanissetta Monti Erei Dittaino CATANIA R
Caropepe
Platani Aragona Pietraperzia Gornalunga A
Pi a na
Racalmuto
Capo Bianco Raffadali Canicattì Barrafranca PIAZZA ARMERINA di Cat a n ia Golfo di M
Catania
Favara Sommatino Palagonia
AGRIGENTO Mazzarino Lentini Capo Campolato
Naro Mineo Capo Santa Croce
Ravanusa Francofonte
Caltagirone Augusta
Melilli
Gela
M A R M E D I T E R R A N E
Palma di Grammichele Monti Iblei Sortino Golfo di
O Montechiaro Butera Vizzini Augusta
Niscemi PANTALICA Anapo Castel Eurialo
Chiaramonte Floridia SIRACUSA
Gela Gulfi Palazzolo
Golfo Acreide Canicattini Capo Murro
Bagni
di Gela V a l d i N o t o di Porco
Vittoria
Comiso Ragusa NOTO Avola
Scoglitti Modica
Irminio Golfo
Scicli Rosolini di Noto
Capo Scaramia Ispica
Pachino
Pozzallo
Punta Religione
Punta delle Formiche
Key
Motorway
Road under construction Scenic route 0 kilometres 50
Major road Main railway 0 miles 25
Minor road Minor railway
Other road Summit
528-529_EW_Italy.indd 529 19/03/15 12:19 pm

530  SOUTHERN IT AL Y

1 Palermo R Il Gesù
Piazza Casa Professa 21. Tel 091 607 62
Nestling on the protective flank of Monte Pellegrino 23. Open 7–11:30am, 5–6:30pm daily
with Monte Alfano to the east, Palermo lies in a natural (to 12:30pm Sun; Aug: 7–10am only).
Closed for Mass.
amphitheatre called the Conca d’Oro (Golden Shell).
The city is an eclectic mix of Oriental and old European This Baroque church (1564–1633)
is also known as the church of
influences, and it features architectural styles that range the Casa Professa. The interior is
from Arabic to Norman, Baroque and Art Nouveau. an example of the skill of Sicilian
This cultural infusion is unmatched in Italy, making craftsmen in the treatment of
this exotic city an exciting place to explore. marble carving and inlay. The
oldest Jesuit church in Sicily, it
was restored after World War II.
Aeroporto Punta Raisi
Aeroporto Punta Raisi
30 km (19 miles)
30 km (19 miles)
MARSALA, Parco della
MARSALA, Parco della VIA SQUARCIA-LUPO VIA SQUARCIA-LUPO
TRAPANI, Favorita V I A
TRAPANI, Favorita
MAZARA DEL VALLO San Giorgio
MAZARA DEL VALLO
Museo
Museo
Archeologico
Archeologico V I A D E I B A R I L A I
Regionale San Giorgio D E I B A R I L A I
Regionale
Oratorio di VIA BAMBINAI VIA BAMBINAI
Oratorio di
Santa Zita
Santa Zita
La Cala
Oratorio di La Cala
Oratorio di
Porta Felice
VIA MONTELEONE
VIA MONTELEONE
San Domenico
Palazzo San Domenico Porta Felice
VIA ROM
Palazzo A
Santa Maria
VIA ROMA
Santa Maria
VIA MELI
delle Poste VIA MELI VIA D E L L A C A L A della Catena
delle Poste
VIA GAGINI
VIA GAGINI
CORSO V IT T O R I O E M A N U E L E
della Catena
VIA TRABIA
VIA TRABIA
Museo delle
PIAZZA SAN San Domenico Museo delle
PIAZZA SAN San Domenico
VIA D E L L A C A L A
DOMENICO
Marionette
DOMENICO Marionette
VUCCIRIA
VIA BANDIERA
VIA BANDIERA VUCCIRIA CORSO V IT T O R I O E M A N U E L E
Ufficio
Ufficio PIAZZA
PIAZZA
VIA BARI
di Turismo VIA BARI MARINA
di Turismo
MARINA
VIA ARGENTERIA
VIA NAPOLI
500m 500m
Giardino
Giardino
(550 yards) VIA NAPOLI V I A R O M A VIA ARGENTERIA Garibaldi VIA BUTERA VIA BUTERA FORO ITA L IC O
Garibaldi
Villa
Palazzo
VIA VENEZIA
VIA VENEZIA VIA BOTTAI Palazzo Villa
Chiaramonte
A Mare
Ruined cloister with the red domes of San Giovanni degli Eremiti behind Oratorio di Chiaramonte A Mare
VIA CANDELAI VIA MAQUEDA SALITA S. ANTONIO San Lorenzo Santa Santa
VIA CANDELAI
Oratorio di
VIA BOTTAI
V I A R O M A
San Lorenzo
FORO ITA L IC O
SALITA S. ANTONIO
VIA DEL CELSO
Maria dei
VIA MERLO
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
P San Giovanni degli Eremiti VIA DEL CELSO PIAZZA CASA DI VIA MERLO Maria dei PIAZZA
Miracoli
Miracoli
DELLA
CASA DI
DELLA
PIAZZA
RISPARMIO
KALSA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
Via dei Benedettini. Tel 091 651 50 19. CANCELLIERI PRETORIA RISPARMIO VIA A. PATERNOSTRO Palazzo Abatellis & KALSA
PRETORIA
VIA ALLORO
Palazzo Abatellis &
Palazzo della
(550 yards) VIA MAQUEDA
Palazzo della
CANCELLIERI
QUATTRO
Casa di Risparmio
Galleria Regionale
Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm San Giuseppe QUATTRO Santa Santa Casa di Risparmio VIA ALLORO Galleria Regionale
CANTI
CANTI
San Giuseppe
Caterina
VIA DI SPASIMO
Sun. & dei Teatini PIAZZA Caterina LA KALSA
LA KALSA
dei Teatini
CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE
PIAZZA
DISCESA DEI GIUDICI
VIA A. PATERNOSTRO
La
VIA SCHIAVUZZO
Reflecting Islamic archi tec­ VIA BONELLO Duomo PIAZZA BELLINI BELLINI La DISCESA DEI GIUDICI PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA DELLA VETRERIA VIA DI SPASIMO
Palazzo
Palazzo
Duomo
PIAZZA
CROCE DEI
CROCE DEI
Martorana
BOLOGNI
VESPRI
BOLOGNI
tural tradition with PIAZZA CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE Università Martorana Ganci Ganci VESPRI VIA SCHIAVUZZO VIA CASTRO FILIPPO Lo Spasimo
VIA DELL'UNIVERSITÀ
VIA BONELLO
Lo Spasimo
Università
VIA DELLA VETRERIA
V
VIA LINCOLN
bulbous domes, corner Palazzo PIAZZA VIA CALDERAI PIAZZA DELLA Palazzo
PIAZZA DELLA Palazzo
Palazzo
RIVOLUZIONE Aiutamicristo PIAZZA
PIAZZA
arches and filigreed Arcivescovile CATTEDRALE VIA DELL'UNIVERSITÀ PIAZZA VIA VIA CALDERAI I A R O M A RIVOLUZIONE Aiutamicristo MAGIONE VIA LINCOLN Villa Villa
CATTEDRALE
PIAZZA
VIA CASTRO FILIPPO
Arcivescovile
MAGIONE
CASA
Giulia
Giulia
PROFESSA
windows, this Palazzo PIAZZA S. PROFESSA VIA MAQUEDA VIA GARIBALDI VIA MAGIONE
VIA PONTICELLO
CORSO CALATAFIMI
Palazzo
PIAZZA S.
V I A R O M A
CHIARA
deconsecrated Porta Nuova RSO CALATAFIMI Sclafani CHIARA VIA PONTICELLO CASA MAQUEDA VIA DIVISI VIA GARIBALDI VIA MAGIONE La Magione
La Magione
Sclafani
VIA DIVISI
VIA DEI BISC OTTARI
Porta
Giardino Orto
Norman church Nuova CO PIAZZA VIA DEI BISC OTTARI Il Gesù VIA M. SANTO Giardino Orto
PIAZZA
Il Gesù
DELLA
DELLA
VIA M. SANTO
Botanico
Botanico
VIA GORIZIA
Palazzo
Palazzo
(1132–48) was PIAZZA DEL VITTORIA PIAZZA SAN S. Croce VIA GORIZIA Tropicale
VITTORIA
VIA DI BOSCO
PIAZZA DEL
Tropicale
S. Croce
PIAZZA SAN
VIA LINCOLN
VIA MILANO
PARLAMENTO
VIA S. ROSALIA
GIOVANNI
V I A P O R T A D I C A S T R O
built in the PARLAMENTO GIOVANNI San Nicolò PIAZZA BALLARO VIA DI BOSCO VIA S. ROSALIA VIA MILANO VIA ARCHIRAFI
San Nicolò
grounds of a INDIPENDENZA Palazzo dei V I A P O R T A D I C A S T R O PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA ORETO VIA LINCOLN
Palazzo dei
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
VIA TORINO
INDIPENDENZA
PIAZZA BALLARO
Normanni
Normanni
DEL
DEL
Carmine
CARMINE
mosque. Beyond Carmine CARMINE VIA TORINO MILLE MILLE
VIA TRIESTE
VI A A . MON GITOR E
VIA ARCHIRAFI
Stazione
Stazione
ALBERGHERIA
Capella
church and mosque, PIAZZA Capella VI A A . MON GITOR E ALBERGHERIA ENNA, ENNA, VIA TRIESTE PIAZZA Centrale
VIA ORETO
PIAZZA Centrale
CORSO DEI
Palatina
Palatina
CORSO DEI
PIAZZA
GIULIO
CATANIA,
D'ORLEANS
a ruined cloister D'ORLEANS CATANIA, CESARE GIULIO
CESARE
VIA ALBERGHERIA
MESSINA
MESSINA
from a 13th­century San Giovanni VIA DEI BENEDETTINI VIA ALBERGHERIA
San Giovanni
degli Eremiti
degli Eremiti
monastery encloses a garden.
VIA DEI BENEDETTINI
P Palazzo dei Normanni structure was built by the Arabs,
Piazza Indipendenza. Tel 091 626 28 but after the Norman conquest of
33. Open 8:15am–5:40pm daily (to the city in 1072, it was enlarged
1pm Sun & hols). Last adm: 45 mins for the Norman court. See the
before closing. & Cappella Palatina: luxurious royal apartments, espe­
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat; 8:30– cially the Sala di Ruggero, and the
9:40am, 11:15–1pm Sun & hols. Closed splendid Cappella Palatina. Built
for Mass; Easter, 25 Apr, 1 May, 26 Dec. by Roger II (1132–40), this daz­
& R Sun.
zling chapel blends Byzantine,
This site has been the focus Islamic and Norman styles. It is
of power since the days of lavishly adorned with mosaics
Byzantine rule and is now home and marble inlaid with gold. Next
to Sicily’s regional government. to the palace is the eccentrically Sumptuous interior of the Cappella
The nucleus of the present decorated Porta Nuova (1535). Palatina, Palazzo dei Normanni
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605
530-531_EW_Italy.indd 530 4/5/17 9:31 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.9)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

P ALERMO  531


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 654,000. 8 P. Castel nuovo 35
(091 605 83 51). ( Mon–Sat.
_ 10–15 Jul: U Festinu for the
city’s patron saint, Santa Rosalia;
4 Sep: Pilgrimage to Santa Rosalia’s
grotto; Easter: Byzantine Catholic
celebrations in La Martorana.
∑ palermotourism.com
Transport
Duomo’s exterior displaying a mixture of styles k Punta Raisi 32 km (20 miles) W.
V Stazione Centrale, Piazza
Aeroporto Punta Raisi Sights at a Glance Giulio Cesare. @ Via Balsamo.
Aeroporto Punta Raisi
g Stazione Marittima, Molo
30 km (19 miles)
30 km (19 miles)
MARSALA, Parco della
MARSALA, Parco della VIA SQUARCIA-LUPO VIA SQUARCIA-LUPO 1 San Giovanni degli Eremiti Vittorio Veneto.
TRAPANI, Favorita
TRAPANI, Favorita V I A
MAZARA DEL VALLO San Giorgio 2 Palazzo dei Normanni
MAZARA DEL VALLO
Museo
Museo
Archeologico V I A D E I B A R I L A I 3 Il Gesù
Archeologico
Regionale San Giorgio D E I B A R I L A I 4 Duomo 0 Museo Archeologico Regionale
Regionale
Oratorio di VIA BAMBINAI VIA BAMBINAI
Oratorio di
Santa Zita 5 Santa Caterina q Oratorio del Rosario di Santa Zita
Santa Zita
La Cala
Oratorio di La Cala 6 La Martorana w Oratorio di San Lorenzo
Oratorio di
Porta Felice
VIA MONTELEONE
VIA MONTELEONE
San Domenico
Palazzo San Domenico Porta Felice 7 Vucciria e Palazzo Abatellis and Galleria
VIA ROM
Santa Maria
Santa Maria
VIA ROMA
Palazzo A
delle Poste
delle Poste VIA MELI VIA D E L L A C A L A della Catena 8 Oratorio del Rosario di San Regionale di Sicilia
VIA MELI
VIA GAGINI
CORSO V IT T O R I O E M A N U E L E
VIA GAGINI
della Catena
VIA TRABIA
VIA TRABIA
Museo delle
PIAZZA SAN San Domenico
PIAZZA SAN San Domenico Museo delle Domenico
VIA D E L L A C A L A
DOMENICO
Marionette
DOMENICO Marionette r La Magione
VUCCIRIA
VIA BANDIERA
VIA BANDIERA VUCCIRIA CORSO V IT T O R I O E M A N U E L E
Ufficio
Ufficio PIAZZA 9 San Domenico t Villa Giulia
PIAZZA
VIA BARI
di Turismo VIA BARI MARINA
di Turismo
MARINA
VIA ARGENTERIA
500m 500m
VIA NAPOLI
Giardino
(550 yards) VIA NAPOLI V I A R O M A VIA ARGENTERIA Giardino VIA BUTERA FORO ITA L IC O R Santa Caterina
Garibaldi
Garibaldi
Villa
Villa
Palazzo
Palazzo
VIA BUTERA
VIA VENEZIA VIA BOTTAI Chiaramonte A Mare
VIA VENEZIA
Chiaramonte
A Mare
VIA CANDELAI VIA MAQUEDA SALITA S. ANTONIO Oratorio di Santa Santa Piazza Bellini. Tel 091 616 24 88.
VIA CANDELAI
Oratorio di
VIA BOTTAI
V I A R O M A
FORO ITA L IC O
San Lorenzo
San Lorenzo
Open 9:30am–1pm daily (summer:
SALITA S. ANTONIO
VIA DEL CELSO
VIA DEL CELSO CASA DI VIA MERLO Maria dei PIAZZA also 5–7pm Mon–Sat).
Maria dei
VIA MERLO
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
Miracoli
Miracoli
DELLA
CASA DI
DELLA
PIAZZA
RISPARMIO
PIAZZA PIAZZA RISPARMIO KALSA KALSA
PIAZZA
PRETORIA
VIA ALLORO
Palazzo Abatellis &
(550 yards) VIA MAQUEDA
Palazzo della
CANCELLIERI
CANCELLIERI PRETORIA Palazzo della VIA A. PATERNOSTRO Palazzo Abatellis & Although begun in 1580, most
QUATTRO Casa di Risparmio VIA ALLORO Galleria Regionale
QUATTRO
Galleria Regionale
Casa di Risparmio
San Giuseppe CANTI CANTI Santa Santa of the internal decoration of this
San Giuseppe
Caterina
Caterina
VIA DI SPASIMO
dei Teatini PIAZZA DISCESA DEI GIUDICI LA KALSA unique church dates from the
LA KALSA
dei Teatini
CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE
PIAZZA CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE Università Martorana Ganci Ganci VESPRI VIA SCHIAVUZZO VIA CASTRO FILIPPO Lo Spasimo A powerful example of the
PIAZZA
VIA A. PATERNOSTRO
DISCESA DEI GIUDICI PIAZZA
PIAZZA
La
VIA SCHIAVUZZO
Palazzo
PIAZZA
Duomo PIAZZA BELLINI BELLINI La Martorana Palazzo CROCE DEI VIA DELLA VETRERIA VIA DI SPASIMO 17th and 18th centuries.
Duomo
CROCE DEI
BOLOGNI
VESPRI
BOLOGNI
VIA DELL'UNIVERSITÀ
Lo Spasimo
VIA BONELLO
VIA BONELLO
Università
VIA DELLA VETRERIA
V
VIA LINCOLN
PIAZZA DELLA Palazzo
Palazzo PIAZZA VIA DELL'UNIVERSITÀ VIA VIA CALDERAI V I A R O M A PIAZZA DELLA Palazzo PIAZZA Palermitan Baroque, it boasts
Palazzo
RIVOLUZIONE Aiutamicristo PIAZZA
RIVOLUZIONE Aiutamicristo
Villa
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
CATTEDRALE
VIA CASTRO FILIPPO
Arcivescovile
Arcivescovile CATTEDRALE PROFESSA VIA CALDERAI I A R O M A VIA GARIBALDI VIA MAGIONE MAGIONE VIA LINCOLN Villa sculpture, marble inlay and
MAGIONE
CASA
Giulia
Giulia
PROFESSA
illusionistic ceiling frescoes (18th
VIA PONTICELLO
Nuova RSO CALATAFIMI Palazzo PIAZZA S. VIA PONTICELLO CASA MAQUEDA VIA GARIBALDI VIA MAGIONE La Magione century) – by Filippo Randazzo
PIAZZA S.
Palazzo
CHIARA
CHIARA
La Magione
Sclafani
Sclafani
VIA DIVISI
VIA DEI BISC OTTARI
Porta Porta CORSO CALATAFIMI VIA DIVISI
Giardino Orto
PIAZZA
Nuova PIAZZA VIA DEI BISC OTTARI Il Gesù VIA M. SANTO Giardino Orto in the nave and by Vito d’Anna
Il Gesù
CO DELLA DELLA Palazzo Botanico
VIA MAQUEDA
VIA M. SANTO
Botanico
VIA GORIZIA
Palazzo
VITTORIA
VIA DI BOSCO
PIAZZA DEL
PIAZZA DEL VITTORIA S. Croce VIA GORIZIA Tropicale in the dome.
Tropicale
S. Croce
PIAZZA SAN
VIA LINCOLN
VIA MILANO
PARLAMENTO
PARLAMENTO PIAZZA SAN PIAZZA BALLARO VIA DI BOSCO VIA MILANO VIA ARCHIRAFI The church is flanked by Piazza
VIA S. ROSALIA
GIOVANNI
GIOVANNI
V I A P O R T A D I C A S T R O
San Nicolò
Palazzo dei
PIAZZA
PIAZZA Palazzo dei San Nicolò PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA S. ROSALIA VIA LINCOLN Pretorio, which is dominated by
VIA TORINO
INDIPENDENZA Normanni V I A P O R T A D I C A S T R O Carmine CARMINE DEL VIA ORETO VIA TORINO 0 metres 250 the huge Mannerist Fontana
INDIPENDENZA
Normanni
PIAZZA BALLARO
DEL
Carmine
CARMINE
VIA TRIESTE
VI A A . MO N GITOR E
VIA ARCHIRAFI
Stazione
Stazione
Capella ALBERGHERIA VIA TRIESTE PIAZZA Centrale MILLE MILLE 250 Pretoria (1544).
ALBERGHERIA
Capella
VIA ORETO
PIAZZA Centrale
Palatina
CORSO DEI
CORSO DEI
PIAZZA Palatina VI A A . MO N GITOR E ENNA, ENNA, GIULIO GIULIO 0 yards
PIAZZA
CATANIA,
D'ORLEANS CATANIA, CESARE
D'ORLEANS
CESARE
VIA ALBERGHERIA
MESSINA
MESSINA
San Giovanni VIA DEI BENEDETTINI VIA ALBERGHERIA
San Giovanni
degli Eremiti
degli Eremiti R Duomo through an Islamic inspired
Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Tel 091 33 43 overlay. The dome is 18th
VIA DEI BENEDETTINI
73. Open 7am–7pm Mon–Sat, 8am– century. Within the much-altered
1pm & 4–7pm Sun & hols. Closed for interior are the tombs of Sicily’s
Mass. 7 Treasury: Open 9am– 5pm kings. Squeezed into an
Mon–Sat, 10am–1pm Sun & hols (only enclosure by the south porch
tombs). & ∑ cattedrale.palermo.it are the remains of Emperor
Founded in 1184, the Duomo Frederick II; his wife, Constance
displays many architectural of Aragon; his mother, Constance,
styles. The exterior shows the daughter of Roger II (also
development of the Gothic style entombed here); and his father,
from the 13th to 14th centuries. Henry VI. The Treasury houses
The south porch (1453) is a the 12th-century Imperial
masterpiece of the Catalan style Diadem of Constance of Aragon,
and, at the apse end, sturdy which was removed from her Fontana Pretoria with Santa Caterina
Norman work can be seen tomb in the 18th century. in the background
For keys to symbols see back flap
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532  SOUTHERN IT AL Y

Exploring Palermo the Rosary (1624–8) by Anthony
Van Dyck, and there are wall
East of the Quattro Canti, where Via Maqueda and Corso paintings by Luca Giordano and
Vittorio Emanuele meet, the city is sprinkled with ornate Pietro Novelli.
palaces and more churches. Squeezed behind them are
labyrinthine medieval quarters where ancient, crumbling R San Domenico
buildings still stand. Piazza San Domenico. Tel 091 32 95
88. Open 8am–2pm Tue–Sun (cloister:
from 9:30am). Museo del
R La Martorana Risorgimento: Tel 091 58 27 74. Open
Piazza Bellini. Tel 345 828 82 31. 9am–1pm Mon–Fri. Closed Aug.
Open 8:30am–1pm, 3:30–5:30pm ∑ domenicani-palermo.it
Mon–Sat; 9–10:30am Sun & hols Although the present building
(to 7pm in summer). was begun in 1640, there has
Also called Santa Maria dell’ been a Dominican church on
Ammiraglio, this church was the site since the 14th century.
built around 1140 by George of Tommaso Maria Napoli, one of
Antioch, Roger II’s admiral. The the masters of Sicilian Baroque,
design derives from Norman and created the exuberant church
Islamic traditions, with mosaics façade (1726) and square in
possibly by Greek artisans. In the front (1724). Within, the most
right aisle, King Roger receives interesting feature is Antonello
the Imperial Diadem from Gagini’s bas- relief of Santa
Christ; in the left aisle, George Caterina (1528) in the third
of Antioch is portrayed. chapel on the left. Next to the
A nearby convent, founded by church is a 14th- century cloister
Eloisa Martorana in 1193, was the that gives access to the Museo
site where the Sicilian Parliament del Risorgimento.
met in 1295 and decided to hand Stuccoed interior of the Oratorio del
the crown of Sicily to Frederick Rosario di San Domenico E Museo Archeologico
of Aragon. The church was Regionale
presented to the convent in 1433. R Oratorio del Rosario di Piazza Olivella 24. Tel 091 68 06 07.
San Domenico Open 9:30am–7pm Tue–Fri,
Via dei Bambinai 2. Open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–1pm Sat & Sun.
9am–6pm Mon–Sat (to 3pm Sat); Housed in a former monastery
Nov–Mar: 9am–3pm Mon–Sat. & 7 of the Filippini, Sicily’s most
The interior of this tiny important museum contains
16th-century chapel displays sculpture, architectural fragments
elegant Baroque decoration by and ceramics, bronzes, glassware,
the master of stucco, Giacomo jewellery, weapons and
Serpotta. Created around 1720– terracottas. The collection is taken
30, this was possibly his finest from the island’s Phoenician, Greek
Mosaic of Christ with Four Angels in the work. Serpotta’s technical and Roman sites of antiquity –
dome of La Martorana virtuosity, not to mention the Tindari, Termini Imerese, Agrigento,
sensory indulgence and Siracusa, Selinunte and Mozia.
( Vucciria whimsical fantasy in evidence The highlights are sculptures
Via Roma. Open daily. here, is remarkable. The altar- from the friezes of the ancient
Nowhere is Palermo’s Arabic piece is the famous Madonna of Greek temples at Selinunte.
past more apparent than in this
medieval casbah-style market
which burrows through the
ruinous Loggia district below
Via Roma. Merchants, hawkers,
shoppers and pickpockets
crowd an area once the haunt
of artisans. The alleys all around
are named after their professions,
such as silversmiths, dyers and
key-makers. This busy market,
the largest in Palermo, offers the
usual market ware from daily
objects to junk, as well as a wide
selection of fresh fruit, vege-
tables, fish and meat. Palermo’s noisy, bustling Vucciria market east of Via Roma
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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P ALERMO  533


R Oratorio del Rosario di
Santa Zita
Via Valverde 3. Tel 091 33 27 79 or 091
843 16 05 (to book). Open Apr–Oct:
9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–3pm Sat;
Nov–Mar: 9am–3pm Mon–Sat. &
This small chapel is dedicated to
the Virgin of the Rosary after her
miraculous intervention at the
Battle of Lepanto (see pp62–3).
The stucco relief decoration is the
work of Giacomo Serpotta (after
1688): the panel on the rear wall
depicts the battle, and other
reliefs show scenes from the New The Palazzina Cinese (c.1799) set in the Parco della Favorita
Testament. The neighbouring
16th-century church of Santa Zita, E Palazzo Abatellis and founded in 1191 by Roger II’s
from which the oratory takes its Galleria Regionale di Sicilia chancellor, Matteo d’Aiello.
name, is filled with sculptures Via Alloro 4. Tel 091 623 00 11. A highlight of Norman architec-
(1517–27) by Antonello Gagini. Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sat. & ture, it has a simple nave flanked
Matteo Carnelivari built by fine Gothic columns.
this palace combining
Spanish late Gothic and Y Villa Giulia
Italian Renaissance styles Via Lincoln. Open 9am–5pm daily.
in the 15th century. It is 7 Orto Botanico: Tel 091 740 40 28.
home to the Galleria Open Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily (to
Regionale di Sicilia, 2pm Sun); longer opening hours in the
which houses Antonello summer. Closed public hols. & 7
da Messina’s Vergine The villa’s formal gardens were
Annunziata (1476) and established in the 1700s. Once,
Francesco Laurana’s marble with their statues and fountains,
head of Eleanor of Aragon they evoked the antique world.
(15th century). Nearby, the Nowadays, their tropical flora
15th-century church of and faded grandeur make them
Santa Maria degli Angeli (or delightful for walks. There are
La Gancia) contains works splendid tropical plants in the
by Antonello Gagini and adjacent Orto Botanico
Ornate interior of the Oratorio di Santa Zita Giacomo Serpotta. (botanical gardens), and plant
specimens can be examined in
R Oratorio di San Lorenzo Léon Dufourny’s Neo-Classical
Via Immacolatella 5. Tel 091 611 81 68. Gymnasium (1789). Palermo’s
Open 10am–6pm daily. & only central park, Villa Giulia has
Lining the walls of this tiny good children’s facilities.
oratory are incredible stucco
scenes from the lives of Y Parco della Favorita
St Francis and St Lawrence, Entrance on Piazza Leoni & Piazza
and allegorical figures and Generale Cascino. Open daily. 7
putti by Giacomo Serpotta Museo Etnografico Siciliano Pitré: Via
(1699–1706). These remarkable Duca degli Abruzzi 1. Tel 091 740 48
works exhibit the virtuosity of 90. Open 9am–1pm Mon–Fri (Wed:
their creator in the handling of also 3:30–5pm). Closed public hols. &
his medium. Caravaggio’s This park, laid out as a hunting
Nativity with St Francis and ground in 1799 by the Bourbon
St Lawrence (1609) was stolen Vergine Annunziata (1476) by da Messina in Ferdinand IV, was surrounded
from above the altar in 1969. the Galleria Regionale by the nobles’ summer villas.
The oratory lies hidden next One of these, the Palazzina
to the 13th-century church of R La Magione Cinese (c.1799), was built in a
San Francesco d’Assisi, which Via Magione 44. Tel 091 617 05 96 Chinese style for Ferdinand III
brims with great sculpture. or 339 377 41 37 (mobile). and Maria Carolina, the sister of
The highlight of the church Open 9am–7pm daily (to 1pm Sun in Marie Antoinette. The Museo
is the triumphal arch (1468) winter). 8 R 7 Etnografico Siciliano Pitré,
by Pietro da Bonitate and ∑ basilicalamagione.diocesipa.it in the stables of the Palazzina
Francesco Laurana in the Restorations have revealed the Cinese, has a fine collection
Cappella Mastrantonio. ancient structure of this church of Sicilian objects.




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2 Monreale

Magnificently adorned, and with a splendid view of
the Conca d’Oro, the Duomo at Monreale is one of the
great sights of Norman Sicily. Founded in 1172 by the
Norman King William II, it flanks a monastery of the
Benedictine Order. The interior of the cathedral glitters
with mosaics carried out by Sicilian and Byzantine
artists – the inspiration of a king who wanted to rival
the power of the Archbishop of Palermo. Like Cefalù, . Christ Pantocrator
and later Palermo, it was to serve as a royal sepulchre. The cathedral’s Latin-cross plan focuses
on the imposing mosaic (12th to
13th century) of the all-powerful Christ.














Apse Exterior
With their rich multi-
coloured ornamentation in
tufa and marble, the three
apses represent the apogee
of Norman decoration.





KEY
1 Barisano da Trani’s bronze door
(1179) on the north side is shielded
by a portico designed by Gian
Domenico and Fazio Gagini Entrance to Cappella del
(1547–69). Crocifisso and Treasury
2 Original Cosmati floor in choir
3 Nave and aisles separated by
Roman columns
4 The royal tomb of William II,
in white marble, flanks the porphyry
tomb of William I in the corner
of the transept. . Mosaic Cycle
5 Magnificent gilded wood ceiling Completed in 1182,
the rich mosaics
6 The south wall and cloisters show scenes from
survive as elements from the the Old Testament
Benedictine monastery. (nave), Teachings
7 Small Oriental-inspired of Christ (aisles,
fountain choir and transepts),
and the Gospels
8 The 18th-century porch is (side apses). The
surrounded by two squat towers.
story of Noah’s Ark
is depicted here.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 23rd October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SICIL Y  535


. Cloisters VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A masterpiece of Norman
artistic expression from the Practical Information
time of William II, the columns – Piazza Duomo.
plain, carved or inlaid with ∑ monrealeduomo.it
richly lustred tiles – support Church: Tel 091 640 44 13.
elaborate capitals from which Open Mar–Oct: 8:30am–
spring Saracenic-style arches. 12:30pm, 2:30–5pm daily; Nov–
Feb: 8am–12:30pm, 3:30–6pm
daily. 5 8 Cloister: Tel 091 640
44 03. Open 9am–1pm Mon–Sat.
& Treasury: Open same as the
church. &
Transport
@ 389, 809, 8/9 and many
others going west.

























Column Detail
Craftsmen from
Campania, Puglia,
Lombardy and
Sicily worked
on the cloister
columns.
The detail here
shows Adam
and Eve.
Bronze Door Panel
Bonanno da Pisa’s fine
bronze door (1185),
signed by him, depicts
42 scenes from the Bible
set within elaborate
borders. The lion and
griffin are symbols of the
Norman kingdom.









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536  SOUTHERN IT AL Y


3 Bagheria
Palermo. * 50,000. V @ n Corso
Umberto I (091 90 90 20). ( Wed.
∑ comune.bagheria.pa.it
Today Bagheria is almost a
suburb of Palermo, though open
countryside with olive and
orange groves once separated
them. In the 17th century
Giuseppe Branciforte, Prince of
Butera, built a summer retreat Fishing and pleasure boats moored in the harbour of Trapani
here, starting a fashion that was
quickly followed by other horrified Goethe, who also 4 Trapani
Palermitan aristocrats. The town’s travelled here and called this * 70,000. V @ g n Piazza
core is sprinkled with their the “Palagonian madhouse”. Scarlatti 1. ( daily. ∑ apt.trapani.it
Baroque and Neo-Classical villas. Across the piazza are Villa
The Villa Palagonia was Valguarnera (begun in 1713 by Old Trapani occupies a narrow
designed in 1705 by the architect Napoli), set in its own park, and peninsula. The best buildings
Tommaso Maria Napoli for Villa Trabia (mid-18th in this lively quarter are the
Ferdinando Gravina, the century), but neither churches, such as the Cathedral
Prince of Palagonia. It has is open to the of San Lorenzo (1635) and the
remarkable architectural public. Museo Chiesa del Collegio dei Gesuiti
qualities: a complex Guttuso (18th (c.1614–40). The façades of
open-air staircase leads century) houses a both, and that of the Palazzo
to the first floor, and the modern art gallery. d’Ali (17th century) on Via
principal rooms, all with Garibaldi, display magnificently
unusual shapes, are E Villa Palagonia the ebullience of west Sicilian
arranged around a Piazza Garibaldi 3. Baroque architecture.
curved axis. A later Tel 091 93 20 88. The 17th-century Purgatorio
prince adorned the Stone figure on Open daily (except on Via San Francesco d’Assisi
perimeter wall with the Villa Palagonia during functions). & contains 18th-century Misteri –
grotesque stone monsters E Museo Guttuso realistic, life-sized wooden
which amused the 18th-century Via Rammacca 9. Tel 091 94 39 02. statues used annually in
traveller Patrick Brydone, and Open daily. & the Good Friday procession.
Santa Maria del Gesù on
Via Sant’ Agostino should
be visited for the Madonna
degli Angeli by Andrea della
Robbia (1435–1525) and
Antonello Gagini’s canopy
(1521). In the Jewish quarter,
west of Via XXX Gennaio,
the Palazzo della Giudecca
(16th century) has a strangely
textured façade.
The Museo Pepoli has a
collection of local antiquities.
Of interest are the coral
objects and the Christmas
crib figures (presepi), modern
versions of which are made
here. Next to the museum,
the Santuario di Maria
Santissima Annunziata
contains the Madonna di
Trapani, a statue revered by
fishermen and sailors for its
legendary miraculous powers.
E Museo Pepoli
Via Conte Agostino Pepoli. Tel 0923
55 32 69. Open 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sat,
Open-air staircase of the eccentric Villa Palagonia in Bagheria 9am–12:30pm Sun & hols. &
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.9)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SICIL Y  537


5 Erice
Sicilian Islands
Trapani. * 29,000. @ n Via Conte a
Repoli 11 (0923 50 21 11). ( Mon. Surrounding Sicily are several island groups. The Isole Eolie (Aeolian
Islands), to which Panarea, Lipari, Vulcano and Stromboli belong, are
Poised on a crag overlooking a mass of volcanoes (most of them nearly extinct) poking out of the
Trapani, the medieval town of sea off the coast of Milazzo. The Isole Egadi (Egadi Islands), off the coast
Erice was once the seat of the of Trapani, have a distinctly Arabic flavour. They include Favignana,
cult of the fertility goddess Venus Levanzo (which has Palaeolithic and Neolithic paintings and drawings),
Erycina. Her temple stood on and Marettimo – the smallest and most unspoiled. Ustica, renowned
the present site of the Norman for its marine life and popular among divers, lies north of Palermo. To
the south are the remarkably tourist-free Isole Pelagie (Pelagic Islands) –
castle (Castello di Venere), Lampedusa and Linosa, which are North African in character. Remote
beyond the Villa Balio public Pantelleria lies closer to Tunisia than to Sicily.
gardens. On a clear day, you can
see all the way to Tunisia from
the castle. The ancient town of The biggest and most
Eryx was renamed Gebel- popular of the Isole Eolie is
Lipari, which has a pretty
Hamed by the Arabs, Monte San port and a good range of
Giuliano by the Normans and bars, restaurants and hotels.
finally Erice in 1934 by Mussolini. Nearby sulphur-smelling
The Duomo (14th century) Vulcano offers hot mudbaths
has a battlemented campanile and black beaches.
and a 15th-century porch.
Inside is a Madonna and Child
(c.1469), attributed to either
Francesco Laurana or Domenico Favignana, the largest and most
Gagini. The deconsecrated populous of the Isole Egadi, is the
scene of the traditional tuna
13th-century San Giovanni slaughter – la mattanza.
Battista on Viale Nunzio Nasi Although rare nowadays,
(now a hotel) contains this still sometimes takes place in
Antonello Gagini’s St John the May. These fishermen are
Evangelist (1531) and Antonino bringing in the nets
Gagini’s St John the Baptist following the slaughter.
(1539). San Cataldo, a plain
14th-century building on Via Part of the Isole Pelagie,
San Cataldo, houses a holy Lampedusa was once owned
water stoup (c.1474) from by the family of Giuseppe
Domenico Gagini’s workshop. Tomasi di Lampedusa, author
In the Museo Cordici are of The Leopard, Sicily’s most
Antonello Gagini’s Annunciation famous novel. The island is
(1525), a variety of Classical nearer to Malta than Sicily
remains and an old library. and has limpid water and
white beaches.
E Museo Cordici
Piazza Umberto I. Tel 346 577 35 50. Ustica
Open times vary greatly; call in Isole Eolie
advance to check. (Lipari)
Palermo
Isole
Egadi
Sicily



Pantelleria


0 kilometres 100
Isole Pelagie 0 miles 50
A typical medieval street in the small
hill-town of Erice




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6 Marsala the 17th century, was built on the Carthaginians in 409 BC.
the site of an earlier church; Archaeologists regard the temple
Trapani. * 83,000. V @ g n Via
XI Maggio 100 (0923 71 40 97). both were dedicated to Marsala’s as a good example of “work in
( Tue. ∑ consorziovinomarsala.it patron saint, Thomas à Becket of progress”. Nearby, close to the
Canterbury. Its interior is full of summit of Monte Barbaro, the
The port of Marsala is the home sculptural works by members ruins of an ancient theatre (3rd
of a thick, strong, sweet wine of the Gagini family. The small century BC) can be visited. Sum-
that has been in production Museo degli Arazzi, behind mer concerts are now held here.
here since the 18th the Duomo, contains
century. In 1798 several magnificent
Admiral Nelson 16th-century Brussels 8 Selinunte
ordered vast quantities tapestries. Trapani. Tel 0924 462 77.
of it following the Battle V Castelvetrano then bus.
of the Nile. Its early E Museo Archeologico Open 9am–6pm daily (to 4pm in
manufacture was presided Baglio Anselmi winter). &
over by three British Via Lungomare. Tel 0923 95 25
families living in Sicily. One 35. Open 9am–6:30pm Tue– Founded in 651 BC, Selinunte
of the old warehouses Sat & 1st Sun of month; 9am– became one of the great cities
where the wine was 12:30pm Mon, Sun & hols. of Magna Graecia – the part of
produced is now the & 7 southern Italy that was colonized
Museo Archeologico E Museo di Mozia by ancient Greece – and its
Baglio Anselmi, Isola di Mozia. Tel 0923 71 25 98. toppled ruins are among Sicily’s
housing important Open 9:30am–6:30pm daily most important historic sites. Its
Phoenician artifacts. Statue of a (Nov–Mar: 9am–3pm). & 7 ancient name, Selinus, derives
The ruins of Lily­ Greek youth in E Museo degli Arazzi from the wild celery that still
baeum are another Museo di Mozia Via Garaffa 57. Tel 0923 71 13 grows here. The city was an
attraction. Founded in 27. Open 9am–1pm daily important port, and its wall
397 BC, this outpost of (and 4–6pm Tue–Sat). & defences can still be seen around
the Phoenician Empire was the Acropolis. The Carthaginians,
peopled by the survivors of under Hannibal, completely
the massacre by Dionysius I 7 Segesta destroyed the city in 409 BC in a
of Siracusa at Mozia (ancient Trapani. * 7,500. @ from Trapani & battle famous for its epic and
Motya) – the island used by the Palermo. Tel 0924 95 58 41. Open spectacularly savage proportions.
Phoenicians as a commercial 9am–6:30pm daily (to 4pm in winter). While the city itself has virtually
centre. Best of all are the disappeared, eight of its temples
reconstructed remains of a Punic According to legend, the ancient are distinguishable, particularly
ship thought to have been active town of Segesta – still largely the so-called Eastern Temples
in the First Punic War (263–241 unexcavated – was founded (E, F and G). Of these, the
BC). The Museo di Mozia in by Trojan followers of Aeneas. columns of huge Doric Temple E
the Whitaker villa contains a It presents one of the most (490–480 BC) have been
remarkable early 5th-century BC spectacular sights on the island: partially re-erected. Temple F
statue of a Greek youth. a massive unfinished temple (c.560–540 BC) is in ruins.
The excavations here are stranded on a remote hillside. Temple G (late 6th century BC),
important; what we know of Its construction was started which had 17 massive side
the Phoenicians today comes between 426 and 416 BC, and it columns, was one of the greatest
mostly from the Bible, and from was left incomplete following Greek temples ever built.
Mozia. The Duomo, begun in the devastation of Selinunte by Higher on the Acropolis lie
the remains of Temples A, B, C,
D and O. Metope sculpture from
Temple C (early 6th century),
originally located on the frieze
between the triglyphs, can be
seen in the Museo Archeologico
Regionale in Palermo (see p532),
along with ceramics, jewellery
and other artifacts excavated
here. A small museum on site
houses less important finds, as
does one in Castelvetrano, 14 km
(8.5 miles) north of Selinunte. The
ancient city is still being exca-
vated; its North Gate entrance
is well preserved, and further
The spectacularly situated, unfinished Doric temple at Segesta north there is also a necropolis.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2)
Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SICIL Y  539

9 Cefalù
Palermo. * 14,000. V @ n Corso
Ruggero 77 (0921 42 10 50). ( Sat.
∑ cefalu.it
This pretty seaside town, with
sandy beaches, restaurants and
hotels, is dominated by a huge
rock known as La Rocca – once
the site of a Temple of Diana –
and by one of the finest
Norman cathedrals in Sicily.
Begun in 1131 by Roger II, the
Duomo was intended as the
main religious seat in Sicily.
Though it failed to fulfil this
function, the building’s
magnificence has never been
eclipsed. Its splendid mosaics
(1148), which feature an image
of Christ Pantocrator in the apse,
are remarkable and often
celebrated as purely Byzantine
works of art on Sicilian soil.
The Museo Mandralisca
houses a fine Portrait of a Man
(c.1465) by Antonello da Messi­ The twin-towered façade of the Norman Duomo in Cefalù
na and a collection of coins,
ceramics, vases and minerals. inhabitants, and was a great
power and rival to Siracusa. In The Mafia
E Museo Mandralisca 406 BC it fell to the Carthaginians, An international organization
Via Mandralisca. Tel 0921 42 15 47. who sacked and burned it. founded in Sicily, the Mafia
Open 9am–7pm daily (later in The historic core of the city, developed as a result of
summer). & with its medieval streets, focuses the cruel State and severe
on the Via Atenea. Santo Spirito poverty. By the late 19th
(13th century) houses stuccoes century it had become a
by Giacomo Serpotta (1695). criminal organization thriving
Santa Maria dei Greci was built on property speculation and
on the remains of a 5th­century drug trafficking. Since the
BC temple – see the flattened “singing” of Tommaso
Buscetta and the capture of
columns in the nave. The Duomo, Toto Riina, the Mafia has been
founded in the 14th century on the defensive against a
and altered in the 16th and State that has doubled its
17th centuries, exhibits a unique efforts against it. The “Boss of
mixture of Arab, Norman and Bosses”, Bernardo Provenzano,
Catalan detailing. was arrested in 2006 after
43 years on the run. Viol ence
Environs is common in Sicily, but it is
The chief reason to visit not directed at tourists.
The lavish apse of Cefalù’s Duomo Agrigento is to see the
archaeological zone known as
the Valley of the Temples (see
0 Agrigento p540). The Museo Regionale
Archeologico houses an
* 59,000. V @ g n Via
Empedocle 73 (0922 203 91); Piazzale interesting display of artifacts
Aldo Moro (0922 59 36 78). ( Fri. from the temples and the
∑ www.comune.agrigento.it city, including a collection of
vases, coins and Greek and
Modern Agrigento occupies the Roman sculpture.
site of Akragas, an important
city of the ancient Greek world. E Museo Regionale Archeologico Mafia assassination depicted in this
Founded by Daedalus, according Contrada San Nicola, Viale Panoramica. scene from the film The Godfather
to legend, it was famed for Tel 0922 40 15 65. Open 9am–7:30pm Part III (1990)
the luxurious lifestyle of its daily (to 1:30pm Mon, Sun). & 7




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540  SOUTHERN IT AL Y


Valley of the Temples


Straddling a low ridge to the part by Christians, who believed
south of Agrigento, the Valley of the temples to be pagan, in the
the Temples (Valle dei Templi) is 6th century. Earthquakes wreaked
one of the most impressive further havoc. Nine of the original ten
complexes of ancient Greek build­ temples are still visible, and the whole
ings outside Greece. Its Doric temples, area can be covered in a day. To avoid
dating from the 5th century BC, crowds, visit early in the morning
were destroyed in part by the (some temples open as early as
Carthaginians in 406 BC, and in 8:30am) or late afternoon.
1 Temple of Hephaestus Telamone from
Apart from a couple of incomplete the Temple of
columns still standing, very little Olympian Zeus
remains of this temple, built c. 430 BC. San Biagio
It is also called the Temple of Vulcan.
Rock Sanctuary
2 Sanctuary of the (see p539) Via dei Templi of Demeter
Chthonic Divinities Museo Regionale Hellenistic
At this group of shrines, Archeologico and Roman
the forces of nature were San Nicola Quarter Strada Panoramica
worshipped. Via dei Templi



Catacombs



Via Sacra
Temple of
Asklepios

4 Temple of Olympian Zeus
Begun c.480 BC, this was the biggest
Doric temple ever built. Unfinished 6 Temple of Herakles
at the time of the Carthaginian This is the oldest temple in the
attack, it is now a toppled ruin. valley (late 6th century BC).
Giant figures known as telamones
were used in its construction. 8 Temple of Juno
Built around 450 BC, this temple
still has many intact columns.
5 Tomb of Theron
Here are the ruins of a Roman
tomb (1st century AD).



3 Temple of Castor Key
and Pollux Suggested route
This is a controversial Ancient walls
assemblage of pieces
from other buildings,
erected in the 19th 7 Temple of Concord
century. Modern This beautifully preserved temple (c.430 BC)
Agrigento (see p539) 0 metres 500 was converted into a Christian church in the
is in the background. 0 yards 500 4th century AD, thus saved from destruction.





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SICIL Y  541


q Piazza Armerina
Enna. * 21,000. @ n Via Generale
Muscara (0935 68 02 01). ( Thu.
∑ piazzaarmerina.org
This active town is half medieval
and half Baroque. The 17th-
century Duomo, at its highest
point, is the most interesting of
the Baroque buildings.
In August, the lively Palio dei
Normanni festival attracts many
visitors, but the real draw are
the mosaics in the UNESCO-
listed Villa Romana del Casale,
5 km (3 miles) southwest of the
town. The mosaics were only Roman Girls in Bikinis mosaic from the Villa Romana del Casale
excavated in the 20th century.
It is thought that this huge, w Enna Francesco has a 16th-century
once sumptuous villa, with its * 28,000. V @ n Piazza tower. Piazza Crispi, with its
public halls, private quarters, fine views to nearby Calas-
baths and courtyards, belonged Colaianni 6 (0935 50 08 75). ( Tue. cibetta, is dominated by a copy
∑ culturasicilia.it
to Maximianus Herculeus, of Bernini’s Rape of Persephone.
Diocletian’s co-emperor, from Impregnable on a crag above The 14th-century Duomo, altered
AD 286 to 305. His son and a fertile landscape where Perse- in later centuries, contains parts
successor, Maxentius, probably phone, mythological daughter of Demeter’s temple, an arch
continued its decoration, with of Demeter, once played, Sicily’s of which is still visible in the
Constantine taking over on highest town (942 m/3,090 ft) exterior of the Apse. Its façade
Maxentius’s death in 312. has been coveted by successive is rich in Gothic decorations.
Although little remains of the invaders since its earliest days. Inside, don’t miss the original
building fabric, the floors have The venerated seat of the wooden ceiling and the
some of the finest surviving Cult of Demeter (goddess of restored sacristy.
mosaics from Roman antiquity. fertility) was at Enna. Her temple The Museo Varisano has
The hunting, mythological and stood on the Rocca Cerere, not exhibits on the area’s history,
domestic scenes, and exotic far from the huge Castello di from Neolithic to Roman. Away
landscapes, all exhibit realistic Lombardia (13th century) built from the centre, the octagonal
attention to detail. by Frederick II. Torre di Federico II (13th century)
Most sights are clustered in the is a former watchtower.
P Villa Romana del Casale old town, among the ancient
Contrada Casale. Tel 0935 68 00 36. streets that open out of the Environs
Open 9am–6pm (winter: to 4pm). & Via Roma. The church of San The ancient hill-town of Nicosia,
northeast of Enna, was damaged
in the 1967 earthquake, but
still con tains a smattering of
churches. San Nicola, built in the
14th century, has a magnificent,
carved entrance portal. Inside
there is a much venerated
wooden crucifix (17th century)
by Fra Umile di Petralia. Santa
Maria Maggiore houses a 16th-
century marble polyptych by
Antonello Gagini and a throne
reputedly used by Charles V in
1535. Further east is Troina.
It was captured in 1062 by the
Normans, whose work survives
in the Chiesa Matrice. Southeast
of Enna, Vizzini commands fine
views of the countryside.
E Museo Varisano
Piazza Mazzini. Tel 0935 52 81 00.
An aerial view of the small town of Troina Open 9am–7pm Mon–Sat.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605



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542  SOUTHERN IT AL Y



























Taormina’s magnificently situated Greek theatre, with Mount Etna in the distance
e Tindari Norman architecture, with rich t Taormina
decoration. To visit the church,
Messina. n Tel 0941 24 11 36. V Messina. * 10,000. V @
Patti or Oliveri, then bus. Open 9am– ask at the tourist office. n Palazzo Corvaja, Piazza Santa
6:30pm daily (to 4pm in winter). 7 & Outside, GA Montorsoli’s Caterina (0942 232 43). ( Wed.
Fontana d’Orione (1547) is the
Poised on the edge of a cliff finest fountain of its kind from Splendidly situated, Taormina
overlooking the Golfo di Patti 16th-century Sicily. His Fontana is Sicily’s best-known resort.
are the ruins of Tyndaris, one di Nettuno (1557) celebrates It retains an air of exclusivity
of the last Greek cities to have Messina’s foundation and while being on the tourist trail,
been founded in Sicily (395 BC). position in the world as a with sandy beaches and a wide
Apart from the city walls, the principal commercial port. range of restaurants and hotels.
ruins are mostly Roman, The most illustrious relic of
including the basilica and E Museo Regionale the past is the theatre. Begun in
theatre. An antiquarium Via Libertà 465. Tel 090 36 12 92. Open the 3rd century BC by the Greeks,
houses artifacts from the site. 9am–7pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun (last it was subsequently rebuilt by the
A combined ticket allows entry adm: 30 mins before closing). & 7 Romans. Among other Classical
at the massive 2nd-century remains are the ruins of the
Villa Romana in Patti Marina. odeon (for musical performances)
Tindari is also known for and the naumachia (an artificial
its shrine to a Byzantine icon, lake for mock-battles). On Piazza
the Black Madonna on Vittorio Emanuele (site of the
Piazzale Belvedere. Roman Forum), Palazzo Corvaia
(14th century) was built using
stone from a temple that once
r Messina stood here. The 13th-century
Duomo (renovated in 1636) is
* 250,000. V @ g n Piazza
Cairoli 45 (090 293 52 92). ( daily. a fortress-like building.
∑ www.comune.messina.it
Environs
Messina has been the victim of Taormina’s main beach,
earthquakes and World War II Mazzarò, boasts clear waters
bombing. The Museo Regionale and is easily reached from the
houses treasures that include town. South of Taor mina at
works by Antonello da Messina Capo Schisò are the ruins of
and Caravaggio. Santissima ancient Naxos. To the west is
Annunziata dei Catalani in Gole dell’Alcantara, a 20 m-
Piazza Catalani displays the Antonello da Messina’s Madonna and Child (66 ft-) deep gorge of ba salt
eclecticism of 12th-century (1473), Museo Regionale rock, a river and waterfalls.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


542-543_EW_Italy.indd 542 4/5/17 9:31 AM
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Date 14th November 2012
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SICIL Y  543

y Mount Etna built around 1779, and on
Palazzo Valle (c.1740–50).
Catania. V Linguaglossa or
Randazzo; Circumetnea railway from Carrying on the Vaccarini
Catania to Riposto. @ to Nicolosi. tradition is Stefano Ittar’s San
n Via G. Garibaldi 63, Nicolosi (095 91 Placido (around 1768). The
15 05). To hire a guide: 095 791 47 55. frenzied stone carving on the
∑ turismo.provincia.ct.it Palazzo Biscari (early 18th
century) is exceeded by Antonino
Europe’s highest (3,370 m/ Amato’s unres trained decoration
11,050 ft) and most active of the vast Benedictine convent
volcano, Mount Etna was (1704) and the adjacent huge
thought by the Romans to have church of San Niccolò (1730).
been the forge of Vulcan (god of On Via Vittorio Emanuele
fire). The climb to the summit is the Museo Belliniano,
should be made only with an birthplace of composer
experienced guide. The Circum­ The façade of Catania’s Duomo Vincenzo Bellini (1801–35).
etnea railway runs around the The lava ruins of the Teatro
base, offering a good alternative contains some of the most Romano (21 BC) are at Piazza
to hiking and good views. imaginative lava­built Baroque Stesicono. Verga’s House, home
buildings in Sicily. Piazza del of the great Sicilian novelist
Duomo, featuring a lava Giovanni Verga (1840–1922), is
u Catania elephant (Catania’s symbol) on Via Sant’ Anna. Via Crociferi is
carrying an Egyptian obelisk, home to 18th­century churches
* 315,000. k V @ n Via Cima­
rosa 10 (095 401 40 40). ( Mon–Sat offers a dramatic vista to San Francesco Borgia, San
(general); Sun (antiques & bric­a­brac). Mount Etna. In 1736, the Benedetto and San Giuliano,
∑ apt-catania.com Norman Duomo was given a whose interior is Vaccarini’s
new façade by Vaccarini, who masterpiece (1760). Further
Having been decimated by the also worked on the Municipio along Via Crociferi, the church
earthquake of 1693, Catania was (finished 1741), on the façade of Santo Carcere contains the
comprehensively rebuilt. While of Sant’Agata (1748), on the prison of St Agatha, who was
it is not immediately beautiful, it designs of Collegio Cutelli, martyred in AD 253.
Influences on Traditional Sicilian Cuisine
Sicily has one of Italy’s most
varied cuisines. The island’s
unique location – marooned
between North Africa, Europe
and the eastern Mediterranean –
and the invaders it attracted are
responsible for this culinary
diversity. The earliest Western
cookbook, the now lost Art of
Cooking (5th century BC), was
written by Mithaecus, a Siracusan
Greek. Sicily’s fertility attracted
Greek colonists, who exported
oil, wheat, honey, cheese,
fruit and vegetables to their
homeland. The Arabs introduced
oranges, lemons, aubergines and
sugar cane. Their love of sweet
con fections inspired granita, A colourful selection of vegetables at a Sicilian market stall
a form of flavoured ice, and
cassata, an elaborate sponge fruit. The Sicilians love to claim an of the peculiarities of Sicilian
cake with ricotta and candied Arabic origin for their ice cream, food today is that it can be both
but the Greeks and Romans had frugal and handsomely ornate.
created an earlier version by All of the usual Italian dishes are
chilling their wine with available, but the more inter­
snow from Mount Etna. esting meals are those that use
Traditionally, the local ingredients like swordfish,
peasants existed on a sardines, ricotta cheese, red
subsistence diet, while chillies, aubergines, capers, olives
the aristocracy enjoyed and almond paste to create
Marzipan fruits made from almond paste extravagant fare, and one unusual taste combinations.

A picturesque beach at Capo Tindari, Sicily


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Date 6th September 2012
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546  SOUTHERN IT AL Y





















Shorefront in Siracusa, one of the most beautiful cities of the ancient Greek world
i Pantalica Artifacts from the necropolis are mathematician Archimedes, its
displayed in Siracusa’s Museo most famous inhabitant.
Siracusa. @ from Siracusa to Sortino,
then 5 km (3 mile) walk to entrance Archeologico Regionale. The highlight of Ortigia is the
(partial access), or bus from Siracusa to extraordinary Duomo, begun in
Ferla then 10 km (6 mile) walk to 1728 by architect Andrea Palma.
entrance. Necropolis: n Pro Loco, Its Baroque façade masks the
Ferla. Tel 331 152 44 24. Temple of Athena (5th century
BC), which has been absorbed
Remote in the desolate Monti into the Duomo. Facing the
Iblei and overlooking the River Ponte Nuovo are the ruins of
Anapo is the prehistoric Sicily’s earliest Doric temple, the
necropolis of Pantalica – a Temple of Apollo, which had
pleasant place to walk and monolithic columns.
picnic. The dead of a large, Across from the Duomo is
unexcavated village (occupied the Palazzo Beneventano del
from the 13th to 8th centuries Bosco (1778–88), a bold example
BC) were buried here in cave- of Siracusan Baroque, as is Santa
like tombs cut into the rock. More Lucia alla Badia (1695–1703). In
than 5,000 of these tombs were the Municipio a small museum
arranged in tiers with a single Interior of Duomo in Siracusa records the history of Ionic
flat stone sealing each opening. temples, and the coin collection
The inhabitants of Pantalica o Siracusa of the Galleria Numismatica
are thought to have come from * 125,000. V @ g n Via records Siracusa’s past wealth.
coastal Thapsos, which was Maestranza (0931 46 42 55). ( Wed. The delightful Fonte Aretusa
abandoned after raids by is frequently referred to by
warlike tribes from mainland Siracusa (Syracuse) was the Classical writers as the point
Italy. The site was re-inhabited most important and powerful where Aretusa emerged from
in the Byzantine period, when Greek city from the 5th to the the ground, having been
some tombs were made into 3rd centuries BC and, according changed into a spring by
cave dwellings and chapels. to the Roman consul Cicero, the Artemis to help her escape her
most beautiful. The peninsula would-be lover, Alpheus.
Ortigia is the hub of the old At Ortigia’s furthest point is
city. On the mainland, Achra- the Castello Maniace, built by
dina, Tyche and Neapolis have Frederick II around 1239. Here,
been occupied almost without too, is the Galleria Reg ionale di
a break since the expansion of Palazzo Bellomo, with sculpture
the city in 480 BC. These were and paintings including the Burial
the years of Gelon, tyrant of of St Lucy (1608) by Caravaggio.
Gela, when Siracusa was The painting comes from the
enriched with new temples, church of Santa Lucia in the
theatres and dockyards. The city Achradina quarter. This area was
was a powerful force until 211 BC, flattened during World War II,
Rock-cut tombs in the prehistoric when it fell to the Romans in but the church survived. It is
necropolis of Pantalica a battle that also killed the mostly 17th century with a
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


546-547_EW_Italy.indd 546 4/5/17 9:31 AM
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Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SICIL Y  547


Norman campanile, and occupies Emanuele. The magnificent
the site where St Lucy, patron Palazzo Trigona (1781) stands
saint of Siracusa, was martyred on Via Cavour behind the
in AD 304. Achradina is now the Duomo. On Via Nicolaci, the
centre of modern Siracusa. Palazzo Villadorata (1730s)
To the north, in Tyche, is the features a splendid façade
Museo Archeologico Regionale adorned with elaborate stone
Paolo Orsi, with its important carvings. At the north end of Via
collection of artifacts from the Nicolaci, the Monastery of
Palaeolithic to the Byzantine era, Montevergine has a striking
taken from southeastern sites in curved façade. In mid-May, Via
Sicily. Included are vases, coins, Nicolaci is the site of the Infior ata
bronzes, sculpture and fragments flower festival. Gagliardi’s church
from Siracusan temples. The façade of the Duomo in Noto rises of the Crocifisso (1728) stands
The Neapolis quarter and its above a huge staircase on the town’s summit. It contains
Parco Archeologico feature a sculpture of the Madonna by
the Teatro Romano, the Altar the local white tufa, a limestone Francesco Laurana (1471). The
of Hieron II and the spectac ular that has turned a honey-brown Municipio (1740s), facing the
Teatro Greco, carved from colour from the sun. Noto is a Duomo, has a fine “billowing”
the hillside. Beyond the UNESCO World Heritage Site, ground-floor design.
Nymphaeum is the 2nd-century- but unfortunately much of its
AD Roman amphitheatre and beauty is behind scaffolding Environs
the stone quarries – the Latomia due to ongoing restoration. The earthquake of 1693 also
del Paradiso featuring the The twin-towered Duomo devastated the towns of
Ear of Dionysius. It is thought (completed 1770s) that Modica, around 30 km
that 7,000 Athenians were dominates Noto is by architect (19 miles) to the west, and
incarcerated here and left to Rosario Gagliardi, who also Ragusa, a short distance further.
die after their calamitous defeat designed the eccentric tower Like Noto, they were rebuilt in
in 413 BC, in a battle described façade of the seminary of San the region’s rich Baroque style.
by Thucydides as “the greatest Salvatore (18th century) in Gagliardi worked on Modica’s
action in Hellenic history”. Piazza Municipio, the convex San Giorgio (early 18th cen-
façade of San Domenico tury), on Ragusa’s San Giorgio
Environs (1730s) in Piazza XVI Maggio, (begun around 1746, and one
At Epipolae, 8 km (5 miles) and the oval interior of Santa of his masterpieces) and San
north of Neapolis, is the Castle Chiara (1730) on Corso Vittorio Giuseppe (mid-18th century).
of Euryalus – the most
important ancient Greek
fortification to have survived.
E Galleria Regionale di
Palazzo Bellomo
Palazzo Bellomo, Via Capodieci 14.
Tel 0931 695 11. Open 9am–6:30pm
Tue–Sun (to 1pm public hols). & 7
E Museo Archeologico
Regionale Paolo Orsi
Viale Teocrito 66. Tel 0931 48 95 11.
Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 1pm
Sun). Last adm: 1 hr before closing.
& 7

p Noto
Siracusa. * 24,000. V @ n Piazza
XVI Maggio (0931 83 67 44). ( Mon
& 1st & 3rd Tue of the month.
∑ comune.noto.sr.it
Noto was built from scratch in
the early 18th century to replace
Noto Antica, which was devas-
tated by an earthquake in 1693.
The town was comprehensively
designed in Baroque style, using Boisterous carving on the façade of the Palazzo Villadorata in Noto




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Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm