(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

MILAN  199


from the same period, is a
single piece of coloured
glass, with finely wrought,
intricate decoration.
Y Parco Sempione
Piazza Castello–Piazza Sempione.
q 1 Cadorna, Cairoli, 2 Lanza,
Cadorna. £ Ferrovie Nord, Cadorna.
v 1, 2, 4, 12, 14, 27. @ 50, 57, 61, 94.
Open May: 6:30am–10pm; Jun–Sep:
6:30am–11:30pm; Oct–Apr:
6:30am–9pm.
Although it covers an area
of about 5 sq km (2 sq miles),
this park occupies only a
part of the old Visconti ducal
garden, enlarged by the
Fruit Basket (c.1596) by Caravaggio in the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana Sforza in the 15th century to
make a 3 sq km (1 sq mile)
E Pinacoteca Ambrosiana of which remains apart from hunting reserve. The present-
Piazza Pio XI 2. Tel 02 80 69 21. the Cappella della Pietà, beside day layout was designed by
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & an 11th-century bell tower. Emilio Alemagna between
∑ ambrosiana.eu The interior seems to be in 1890 and 1893.
The Ambrosiana is home to the shape of a Greek cross, Among the trees are
Cardinal Federico Borromeo’s but this is an illusion created monuments to Napoleon III by
magnificent library of 36,000 by trompe-l’oeil effects, since Francesco Barzaghi, De Chirico’s
manuscripts. These include a space restrictions led Bramante Myster ious Baths, the sulphur
5th-century illustrated Iliad, early to choose a T-shaped plan. water fountain and the Torre
manuscripts of Dante’s Divine Above the altar is a 13th- Branca, a tower of steel
Comedy (1353) and the Atlantic century fresco. An octagonal tubes made in 1932 to
Codex (1478–1519) by Leonardo baptistry lies off the right aisle. a design by Gio Ponti.
da Vinci. In order to exhibit as The church’s façade was
much of the Atlantic Codex as finished in the 19th century. E Gallerie d’Italia
possible, the pages on show are Via Manzoni 10. Tel 800 16 76 19.
changed every three months. E Civico Museo Open 9:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun
The building also houses an art Archeologico (to 10:30pm Thu). 8
gallery, bequeathed by Borromeo Corso Magenta 15. Tel 02 88 44 52 08. ∑ gallerieditalia.com
in 1618. The collection ranges q 1, 2 Cadorna. v 16, 27. @ 50, 58,
from 14th-century pieces to 94. Open 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. 7 Housed in the Palazzo
works of the early 19th century. (phone ahead). & = ^ Anguissola Antona Traversi and
Among the canvases are Portrait At the entrance to this museum Palazzo Brentani, Gallerie d’Italia
of a Musician by Leonardo, the is a model of Roman Milan, has around 200 works of art
Madonna of the Canopy by which illustrates urban planning from the 1800s. This collection
Botticelli (15th century), a cartoon and architecture in Milan from offers a fascin ating journey
version of Raphael’s Vatican the 1st to the 4th century AD. through one century of Italian
fresco, The School of Athens (16th The exhibition begins in a hall art, with pieces by such artists
century) and Caravaggio’s Fruit on the right, containing clay as Antonio Canova, Angelo
Basket. There is also a strong objects and Roman sculpture. Inganni and Umberto Boccioni.
collection of Venetian art, with At the end of this room
paintings by Giorgione, Titian, is a huge fragment of a
Bassano and Tiepolo, and panel torso of Hercules and
paintings by the late 15th-century 3rd-century-AD floor
Lombard painter Bergognone. mosaics. Also in this
room are two of the
R San Satiro most important works
Via Speronari 3. Tel 02 87 46 83. in the museum: the
Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sat, Parabiago Patera and
2–5:30pm Sun & public hols. the Diatreta Cup. The
Santa Maria presso San Satiro Patera is a gilded silver
church is one of the most plate with a relief of
beautiful Renaissance buildings the goddess Cybele
in Milan. It was built on the site (4th century AD). The The Parco Sempione with the Arco della Pace in
of a 9th-century sanctuary, little Diatreta Cup, dating the background




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Shopping in Milan

In Milan, one of the most affluent cities in Italy, shopping Accessories
is synonymous with buying designer apparel. High-fashion Handbags, shoes, hats and
flagship stores here are invariably smart and stylish, especially jewellery are also worth seeking
in the city centre, and looking is almost as satisfying as making out. Chains such as Furla and
Coccinelle offer a wide array of
a purchase. However, Milan also has many independent bags, while those looking for
boutiques with a range of styles to suit all tastes. If you shoes can head to René Caovilla
are looking for gifts to take home, there are some excellent for stylish heels, or purchase
pasticcerie (pastry shops), where you can buy authentic comfortable shoes with a twist
delicacies and traditional local confectionery. Alternatively, from Tod’s and Hogan. Garlando
carries a number of classic styles
a cutting-edge object of design will make for an impressive in a wide array of colours and
souvenir of your trip to the city. sizes, while Ghigodonna has
elegant shoes in larger sizes.
Where to Shop set is wearing, go to Amedeo Borsalino is synonymous with
All leading fashion designers D or to the Corso di Porta stylish headwear.
have shops in the area between Ticinese area. Other jewellers include
Via Montenapoleone, Via della Up-and-coming designers Federico Buccellati and Bulgari,
Spiga, Via Manzoni and Via are gathering in the areas in the “fashion quadrilateral”,
Sant’Andrea, the so-called around Corso Garibaldi and and Mereu, in the Brera area.
“fashion quadrilateral”. Corso Como. As well as of-
Those interested in interior the-moment clothes and Food and Wine
design will enjoy Via Durini, accessories, 10 Corso Como
while lovers of antiques should offers a bookshop, record store, Gourmands will have a great
head to Brera or the Navigli, art gallery, café and restaurant, time in Milan. Peck consists of
where antiques markets are and even a top-class B&B. three floors of the best that
held monthly. Most designers carry men’s Italy can offer, in terms of both
If time is of the essence, as well as women’s apparel. food and wine. Eataly also sells
call ahead to check opening Specialist men’s stores include high-quality Italian products, as
hours. In Milan generally, non- Pal Zileri, Ermenegildo Zegna well as housing eateries and
food shops may be closed and Corneliani. arranging gastronomic events.
on Monday mornings, while Giovanni Galli Marroni e
food shops might be closed Regular Clothing Canditi offers a different take on
on Monday afternoons. The chocolate-coated delicacies.
largest shops tend to stay Designer outlets sell samples, For those who like a hands-
open throughout the day, seconds and last season’s goods on approach to their food, High
but sometimes a lunch break at a discount. Among Milan’s Tech is a goldmine for kitchen
is taken. Shops are closed on longest-established outlets are tools, including all the top
Sundays, except in the city Salvagente and DMagazine. names such as Alessi, as well
centre and for the run-up to Many designers also have their as plates and cutlery.
Christmas and during the own outlets: fans of Max Mara,
main fashion shows. for example, should head for Design, Books and Gifts
Diffusione Tessile.
Milan’s main department Milan is the cradle of designer
Designer Fashion stores are La Rinascente and furniture. A stroll down Via Durini
Milan is renowned as a world Coin. The former carries many will reveal, among others,
capital of fashion, and most leading-edge fashion designers, Cassina and B&B. For lighting,
national and international while the latter features smaller see Flos and Artemide. Those
designers have a flagship store fashion labels, handbags, interested in 20th-century
here. As well as the designers costume jewellery and design could visit Spazio 900.
that you would expect to find in housewares. There is more to If an item of furniture is not
a fashion centre, such as Dolce Milan than upmarket, cutting- an option, the next best thing
& Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, edge designer fashion, though. might be a book on design or
Gucci, Prada, Versace and For good-value casualwear for architecture. Visit the bookshop
Hugo Boss, there are many the whole family, try Oviesse. of the Triennale or that of the
smaller designer stores. For an Many fashion shoppers also art-catalogue publisher Skira for
overview of what’s new, check scour the stalls at the Saturday the best on the market.
out multibrand boutiques market at Viale Papiniano, at the Fabriano, the company that
such as Banner, which features Piazza Sant’Agostino end, which developed the first paper mill
a selection of the best from a starts at 8.30am and goes on in the 1200s, has a store selling
wide array of names. For the until 5pm. Corso Vercelli is handsome writing paper,
latest on what the younger also recommended. envelopes and gift items.




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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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Size 125mm x 217mm

SHOPPING IN MILAN  201


DIRECTORY
Designer Fashion Pal Zileri Bulgari Giovanni Galli
Via Manzoni 20. Via Montenapoleone 2. Marroni e Canditi
10 Corso Como Tel 02 7639 4680. Tel 02 777 001. Via Victor Hugo 2.
Corso Como 10. ∑ palzileri.com ∑ bulgari.com
Tel 02 2900 2674. Tel 02 8646 4833.
Tel 02 626 163 (B&B). Prada Coccinelle Corso di Porta Romana 2.
Tel 02 2901 3581 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele Via Bigli 28 (cnr Manzoni). Tel 02 8645 3112.
(bar & restaurant). 63–65. Tel 02 876 979. Tel 02 7602 8161. ∑ giovannigalli.com
Tel 02 653 531 (gallery). Galleria Vittorio Emanuele Corso Buenos Aires 42. High Tech
∑ 10corsocomo.com 62 (men). Tel 02 8721 Tel 02 2940 7717. Piazza XXV Aprile 12.
1450. Via Monte­
Amedeo D napoleone 8 (women). Federico Tel 02 624 1101.
Galleria di Corso Vercelli 23. Tel 02 777 1771. Buccellati ∑ cargomilano.it
Tel 02 4800 4048. Via Montenapoleone 6 Via Montenapoleone 23.
∑ amedeod.it (men). Tel 02 7602 0273. Tel 02 7600 2154. Peck
Banner Corso Venezia 3. ∑ buccellati.com Via Spadari 9.
Tel 02 802 3161.
Via Sant’Andrea 8. Tel 02 7600 1426. Furla
Tel 02 7600 4609. Via della Spiga 18 (acces­ Piazza Duomo 31. ∑ peck.it
∑ bannerboutique.it sories). Tel 02 780 465.
∑ prada.com Tel 02 8909 6794. Design, Books
Corneliani Corso Vercelli 11. and Gifts
Via Montenapoleone 26. Versace Tel 02 4801 4189.
Tel 02 7631 7955. Ottagono Galleria Vittorio Corso Buenos Aires Artemide
∑ corneliani.com Emanuele II. Tel 02 8901
1479. ∑ versace.com (corner Via Omboni). Corso Monforte 19.
Dolce & Gabbana Tel 02 2043 319. Tel 02 7600 6930.
Via della Spiga 26 (women). Regular Clothing ∑ furla.com Via Manzoni 12
Tel 02 7600 1155. Coin Garlando (showroom).
Corso Venezia 15 (men). Piazza Cinque Giornate. Via Madonnina 1. Tel 02 778 712 201.
Tel 02 7602 8485. Tel 02 5519 2083. Tel 02 874 665. ∑ artemide.com
Via della Spiga 2 Corso Vercelli 30. ∑ alfonsogarlando.it
(women’s accessories). Tel 02 4399 0001. B&B
Tel 02 795 747. Piazza Cantore 12. Ghigodonna Via Durini 14.
Corso Venezia 7 (D&G). Tel 02 5810 4385. Viale Tunisia 2. Tel 02 764 4411.
Tel 02 7600 4091. ∑ coin.it Tel 02 2940 8414. ∑ bebitalia.com
∑ dolcegabbana.it ∑ ghigocalzature.com
Diffusione Tessile Cassina
Ermenegildo Zegna Galleria San Carlo 6. Hogan Via Durini 16.
Via Montenapoleone 27. Tel 02 7600 0829. Via Montenapoleone 23.
Tel 02 7600 6437. Tel 02 7601 1174. Tel 02 7602 0745.
∑ zegna.com DMagazine ∑ hogan.com ∑ cassina.it
Via Manzoni 44.
Giorgio Armani Tel 02 3651 4365. Mereu Fabriano
Via Montenapoleone 2 Oviesse Via Solferino 22. Via Ponte Vetero 17.
(boutique). Via Dante 11. Tel 02 653 770. Tel 02 7631 8754.
Tel 02 7600 3234. Tel 02 8909 5062. ∑ giolinaangelo.com ∑ fabriano.com
Via Manzoni 31
(megastore). Corso Garibaldi 72. René Caovilla Flos
Tel 02 7231 8600. Tel 02 655 1649. Via Bagutta 28. Corso Monforte 7.
c/o La Rinascente, Piazza Corso Buenos Aires 35. Tel 02 7631 9049. Tel 02 3701 1080.
Tel 02 2952 1352.
del Duomo (Collezioni). ∑ ovs.it ∑ renecaovilla.com ∑ flos.it
Via Sant’Andrea 9 Tod’s
(Armani Casa). La Rinascente Via della Spiga 22. Skira
Tel 02 7626 0230. Piazza del Duomo. Tel 02 Tel 02 7600 2423. Via Torino 61.
∑ armani.com 88 521. ∑ rinascente.it Tel 02 724 441.
Galleria Vittorio
Gucci Salvagente Emanuele II. ∑ skira.net
Via Montenapoleone 5–7. Via Fratelli Bronzetti 16. Tel 02 877 997. Spazio 900
Tel 02 771 271. Tel 02 7611 0328. ∑ todsgroup.com Viale Campania 51.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II ∑ salvagentemilano.it Tel 02 7012 5737.
11 (accessories). Tel 02 Food and Wine ∑ spazio900.com
859 7991. ∑ gucci.com Accessories
Eataly Triennale
Hugo Boss Borsalino
Corso Matteotti 11 (men Galleria Vittorio Emanuele Piazza XXV Aprile 10. Viale Alemagna 6.
& women). Tel 02 7639 II 92. Tel 02 8901 5436. Tel 02 4949 7301. Tel 02 724 341.
4667. ∑ hugoboss.com ∑ borsalino.com ∑ eataly.net ∑ triennale.it

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Milan: Pinacoteca di Brera

Milan’s finest art collection is held in an imposing 17th-century 11
building, the Palazzo di Brera. This is where, in the 18th century,
8
the Accademia di Belle Arti was founded; the picture collection
developed alongside the academy. Inside the Brera hang some
of the finest examples of Italian Renaissance and Baroque
7 9 10
painting, including works by Piero della Francesca, Mantegna,
Canaletto, Bellini, Raphael, Tintoretto, Veronese and Caravaggio.
The collection also includes 20th-century works by some of 6
Italy’s most famous modern artists. 14

. Dead Christ 5
by Mantegna 4
The subtle lighting 3
and dramatic 2 19
perspective of this
lamentation by
Mantegna (1430– 1A
1506) make it one 18
of his greatest
masterpieces.
1



Gallery Guide
The collection is displayed in 38 rooms,
and was first built up by paintings from
churches, later from acquisitions. Not all
of it is permanently on view – this is due
to restoration work and research.
Twin staircases lead up 38
to the first-floor entrance
of the Pinacoteca.
28
37
36
29
35
30

The bronze statue 34 31
(1809) by Canova 33
depicts Napoleon as a 32
demi-god with Victory
wings in his hand.
Key to Floorplan
15th- to 16th-century Italian
painting Works by
16th- to 17th-century Dutch and Rubens and Van
Flemish painting Dyck represent
The Kiss (1859) 17th-century Italian painting some of the
Francesco Hayez’s painting is one non-Italian
of the most reproduced works of 18th- to 19th-century Italian artists on show.
Italian 19th-century art. Patriotic painting
and sentimental, it became a symbol 20th-century Italian painting and
of the optimism surrounding the sculpture and Jesi Collection
unification of Italy. Non-exhibition space
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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MILAN  203


Mother and Son
(1917) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The metaphysical
paintings of Carlo Practical Information
11
Carrà show a Via Brera 28. Tel 02 72 26 32 64;
dream world full 02 72 26 32 29. Open 8:30am–
of strange and 7:15pm Tue–Sun (last adm: 45
obscure symbols. min before closing). Closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 25 Dec. & 7
10
∑ pinacotecabrera.org
Transport
q Lanza, Monte napoleone &
Duomo. @ 61.
14
12
19 15 13

Portrait of
18
Moïse Kisling
Modigliani’s
angular portrait
20
of 1915 reflects
his interest in
African sculpture.
21
22

23
Twinned columns
24
support the arcades
in the courtyard.
27
The stone façade
28
presents a regular
and slightly austere
appearance.
29
Madonna della
Candeletta (c.1490)
This painting by Carlo
Crivelli was the central
part of a polyptych. It is
richly detailed with
much distinctive
ornamentation.



Main entrance
from Via Brera

. The Marriage of the
Virgin by Raphael
This graceful altarpiece
was painted in 1504. The
circular temple is signed
with the artist’s name.




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Milan: Southwest of the Centre

Some of Milan’s finest treasures are to be found in its religious
buildings; the ancient monasteries and churches make up
some very fine architectural ensembles in themselves, as well
as incorporating important ruins and relics dating back to
Roman times. It is also in Milan that one of the most famous
images in the world is to be found: Leonardo’s evocative
masterpiece, The Last Supper.


gems. In a chapel off the south
aisle, fine mosaics line a stunning
cupola. In the crypt lies the San Lorenzo Maggiore viewed
tomb of Sant’Ambrogio himself. from the northeast
Above the portico, a small
museum contains architectural R Santa Maria delle Grazie
fragments, tapestries and Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2. Tel 02
paintings relating to the church. 46 76 111. Open daily. Cenacolo: Tel
02 92 80 03 60 (booking compulsory –
R San Lorenzo Maggiore up to 60 days in advance). Open
The entrance to Sant’Ambrogio, flanked by Corso di Porta Ticinese 39. Tel 02 89 8:15am–6:45pm Tue–Sun. Closed pub
unequal bell towers 40 41 29. Open 8am–6:30pm Mon– hols. & 7 ∑ cenacolovinciano.org
Sat, 9am–7pm Sun. Cappella This beautiful 15th-century
R Sant’Ambrogio Sant’Aquilino: Open 9am–6:30pm Renaissance convent, its lovely
Piazza Sant’Ambrogio 15. Tel 02 86 45 daily. & for the Cappella. apse and calm small cloister
08 95. Basilica: Open 10am–noon, ∑ sanlorenzomaggiore.com designed by Bramante, contains
2:30–6pm Mon–Sat, 3–5pm Sun. This church contains a vast one of the key images of
Museum: Open 10am–noon, collection of Roman and Western civilization: the
2:30–5:30pm Mon–Sat, 3–5pm Sun. early Christian remains. The Cenacolo (The Last Supper) by
7 ∑ basilicasantambrogio.it
octagonal basilica was built in Leonardo da Vinci. The image
Sant’Ambrogio, or St Ambrose, the 4th century, above what captures the moment at which
Milan’s patron saint and its was probably a Roman amphi- Christ tells his disciples that one
bishop in the 4th century, was theatre, and rebuilt in the of them will betray him. The
so eloquent that bees were said 12th and 16th centuries. Christ figure is unfinished: Leo-
to fly into his mouth, attracted In front of the church stands nardo did not consider himself
by his honey tongue. This is the a row of 16 Roman columns worthy enough to complete it.
basilica that he began in AD 379, and a statue of Emperor The artist also spurned the
though today most of it is Constantine. Fine 4th-century standard fresco technique of
10th-century Romanesque. mosaics adorn the Cappella di painting on wet plaster, apply-
A gateway leads to the bronze Sant’Aquilino, a Romanesque ing tempera to the dry wall
doors of the entrance, flanked chapel, with two early Christian instead. The result has deterio-
by two bell towers. Inside, note sarcophagi. Other Roman rated badly: the paint is flaking
the fine rib vaulting and pulpit, architectural elements of this off, and restoration has proved
and the 9th-century altar church are in a chamber difficult. The painting is now
decorated with gold, silver and below the chapel. protected by a filtering system.
















Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper (1494–7) adorning the refectory wall of Santa Maria delle Grazie
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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Date 13th June 2012
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MILAN І 205

4 Monza with a bas-relief of the Lion
of Venice.
Monza. * 120,000. V @ n Piazza
Carducci 2 (039 32 32 22). Open 9am– The arcades of the Palazzo
noon, 3–6pm daily. ( Thu & Sat. della Ragione lead to Piazza del
Duomo, the square of the Neo-
These days Monza is mostly Classical Duomo. The square is
famous for its international dominated by the Cappella
Formula One Autodromo, which Colleoni (see p188), a chapel
lies inside a vast park that also built in 1476 to house the tomb
has an elegant Rococo hunting of Bergamo’s famous political
lodge, the Villa Reale, and a golf leader, Bartolomeo Colleoni.
course. At one time, however, It is flanked by two 14th-
Monza was one of the most century buildings: an octagonal
important towns in Lombardy. baptistry and the porch leading
Theodolinda, the 6th-century to the Romanesque basilica
Lombard queen, built its first of Santa Maria Maggiore.
cathedral and bequeathed her Leonello d’Este (c.1440) by Pisanello in the The basilica’s austere exterior
treasure to the town. Accademia Carrara, Bergamo contrasts with its Baroque
In the town centre is the interior, which contains the
Duomo, with its notable green 5 Bergamo tomb of Bergamo born
and white 14th-century façade * 120,000. V @ n Via Gombito composer Gaetano Donizetti
and beautiful 15th-century 13 (035 24 22 26). Open 9am–5:30pm (1797–1848).
frescoes portraying Theodo linda’s daily. ( Mon. ∑ visitbergamo.net The collection from the
life. Behind the high altar is the Galleria dell’ Accademia
small Iron Crown, believed to Bergamo owes much of its artistic Carrara, a major picture gallery
have belonged to Emperor inspiration and architectural with works by Venetian masters
Constantine: it is prized for the splendour to the influence of and local artists, as well as
iron strip, said to have been one Venice, which ruled it from the masterpieces from the rest of
of the nails from the cross of 15th to the late 18th century. Italy, is housed temporarily in
Christ. More local treasures in The town is divided into two Palazzo della Ragione while
the Duomo’s Museo e Tesoro distinct parts: Bergamo Alta, the building is being restored.
del Duomo include a silver hen crowning the hill with its cluster It includes 15th- and 16th-
standing over seven tiny chicks of attractive medieval and century works by Pisanello,
– which symbolize Lombardy Renaissance buildings, and Crivelli, Mantegna, Giovanni
and the seven provinces it the more modern Bergamo Bellini, Botticelli, Titian, Raphael
ruled – and a relic said to be Bassa below. and Perugino, 18th-century
John the Baptist’s tooth. The jewel of the upper town canvases by Tiepolo, Guardi and
is Piazza Vecchia, containing Canaletto, as well as paintings
P Autodromo one of the most appealing by Holbein, Dürer, Brueghel
Parco di Monza. Tel 039 248 21. Open archi tectural ensembles in the and Velázquez.
daily. Closed public hols. & 7 region. Its buildings include the
∑ monzanet.it 12th-century Torre del Comune E Palazzo della Ragione
R Duomo with its fine clock and curfew Città Alta. Tel 035 39 96 77.
Piazza Duomo. Tel 039 32 63 83 bell that rings daily at 10pm, Open Jun–Sep: 10am–9pm
(museum). Museo e Tesoro del Duomo: the late 16th-century Biblioteca Tue–Sun (to 11pm Sat); Oct–May:
Open 9am–6pm daily (from 3pm Civica and the attractive 9:30am– 5:30pm Tue–Fri,
Mon). & ∑ museoduomomonza.it 12th-century Palazzo della 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. & 7
Ragione, or law courts, adorned
The Edict of Milan
Milan was colonized by the Romans in 222 BC,
and quickly grew to be an important city at
the junction of various trading routes. As the
Roman Empire grew and then split into two, the
emperors began to neglect Rome for the better-
placed Mediolanum (literally, “city in the middle of
the plain”). It was here that Emperor Constantine
declared his edict of AD 313, in which Christianity
was recognized as one of the permitted religions
of the Empire, ending centuries of persecution.
The emperor is said to have converted following a
Emperor vision, but by the 4th century adopting Christianity
Constantine was also one way to unite the disparate Empire.
Detail from the Cappella Colleoni




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206 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y


UNESCO cultural protection zone.
More than 180,000 engra vings
from the Neolithic era until early
Roman times have been found;
the best are in the Parco Nazio-
nale delle Incisioni Rupestri. Do
not miss the Naquane rock, car-
ved with nearly 1,000 figures
from the Ice Age. The Centro
Camuno focuses on the Roman
settlement in the valley.

E Parco Nazionale delle Incisioni
Rupestri
Capo di Ponte. Tel 0364 421 40. Open
mid-Oct–May: 8:30am–1:30pm Tue–
Sun; Jun–mid-Oct: 8:30am–6:30pm
Tue–Sat, 8:30am–1:30pm Sun. Closed
1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. ∑ parcoincisi
oni.capodiponte.beniculturali.it
E Centro Camuno di
Studi Preistorici
Via Marconi 7, Capo di Ponte. Tel 0364
420 91. Closed to tourists. 7

8 Lago d’Iseo
Bergamo & Brescia. V @ g Iseo.
A leafy pathway through the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio n Lungolago Marconi 2, Iseo (030 98
02 09). ∑ lagodiseo.org
6 Parco Nazionale Y Giardino Botanico
dello Stelvio Alpino Rezia This glaciated lake is surrounded
Via Sertorelli, Loc. Rovinaccia, Bormio. by tall mountains and waterfalls
Trento, Bolzano, Sondrio & Brescia. Tel 0342 92 73 70. Open Jun–Sep: and boasts a mini-mountain of
@ from Bormio to Santa Caterina daily. & ∑ ortobotanicoitalia.it its own, in the form of the island
Valfurva & Madonna dei Monti. of Monte Isola. Along the shores
n Via de Simoni 42, Bormio (0342 of the lake are a clutch of fishing
90 08 11). ∑ stelviopark.it 7 Val Camonica villages such as Sale Marasino
The Stelvio, Italy’s largest Brescia. V @ Capo di Ponte. n Via and Iseo itself. From Marone, on
national park, is the gateway Briscioli 42, Capo di Ponte (0364 420 the east bank of the lake, a road
from Lombardy to the glacier- 80). ∑ proloco.capo-di-ponte.bs.it leads to the village of Cislano,
strewn Dolomite mountains about 5 km (3 miles) away. Here,
stretching into Trentino-Alto This broad valley formed by a extraordinary spire-like rock
Adige. The glaciers are dotted glacier is the setting for an formations rise from the ground,
with more than 50 lakes, and extraordinary series of pre historic each spire topped by a boulder.
dominated by craggy peaks rock carvings. These form an These distinctive erosion pillars,
such as Gran Zebrù, Cevedale astonishing outdoor mural from one of the strangest natural
and Ortles – the tallest mountain the Lago d’Iseo to Capo di Ponte wonders in Lombardy, are known
here is 3,905 m (12,811 ft). and beyond, and the valley is an as the “Fairies of the Forest”.
For walkers, the area offers
excellent hiking, and access to
remote areas populated by
ibexes, marmots, chamois and
eagles. The only real population
centre in the Lombardy part of
the park is at Bormio, which
boasts plenty of winter and
summer sports facilities, and is a
good base from which to explore
the area. The town’s Giardino
Botanico, a 1 km (0.6 mile) walk
from the centre, displays some
of the species of mountain
plants found in the region. Prehistoric engraving of a mounted hunter and stag in the Val Camonica
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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Date 13th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

L OMBARD Y І 207


Even after it lost its status to
Milan in 1359, Pavia remained
an important city, and great
Romanesque churches, tall
towers and other monuments
still reflect this.
As well as the Charterhouse
(Certosa) (see pp208–9), there is
the sandstone Basilica di San
The partly Renaissance Ponte Coperto, straddling the River Ticino at Pavia Michele off Corso Garibaldi.
The building was founded in the
9 Brescia 0 Lodi 7th century but largely rebuilt in
the 12th. Its façade is decorated
* 195,000. V @ n Via Musei 32 * 44,000. V @ n Piazza Broletto 4
(030 374 96 16). ( Sat. (0371 40 92 38). ( Tue, Thu, Sat & with symbols and friezes of
Sun. ∑ turismolodi.it fantastic animals, and inside
Lombardy’s second city after there are intricate carvings on
Milan boasts a rich artistic This is a charming medieval the columns; a chapel to the
heritage, ranging from Roman town of pastel-coloured houses, right of the main altar contains
temples to the triumphalist pretty courtyards and gardens. a 7th-century silver crucifix.
Mussolini-era architecture of Just off Piazza della Vittoria, the In the town centre, around
Piazza Vittoriale. The major sights arcaded square on which the Piazza della Vittoria, are several
include the Roman ruins around 12th-century Duomo stands, is ancient monuments, such as the
Piazza del Foro, consisting of the the fine Renaissance church of medieval Broletto (town hall),
Tempio Capito lino – a three-part the Incoronata. The magnificent with its 16th-century façade, and
temple incorporating the Museo octagonal interior is entirely the Duomo, originally begun in
di Santa Giulia, Brescia’s main decorated with wall paintings 1488 and worked on in turn by
gallery – and a theatre. The Pina- and gilding, and crowned Giovanni Antonio Amadeo,
coteca Civica Tosio Martinengo with a dome. One of the Leonardo and Bramante. The
has masterpieces by Raphael, chapels has 15th-century dome was added in the 1880s.
Lorenzo Lotto and Tintoretto; it is works by Bergognone. The 11th-century tower that
currently closed for restoration stood next to it collapsed
but important paintings are on suddenly in 1989. Crossing the
display at the Museo di Santa q Pavia river is the Ponte Coperto,
Giulia. The Duomo on Piazza * 71,000. V @ n Palazzo del a Renaissance covered bridge
Paolo VI, with its 11th-century Broletto, Piazza della Vittoria with a consecrated chapel
core and 17th-century exterior, is (0382 07 99 43). ( Wed & Sat. halfway along it. The bridge
another main attraction. One of ∑ turismo.provincia.pv.it was rebuilt after World War II.
the relics in the Duomo is the Pavia is also the site of one of
banner from the Carroccio, or During Pavia’s golden age, the Europe’s oldest (1361) and most
sacred ox cart, which served as a city was the Lombards’ capital, respected universities, now
symbol for the medieval Lega and later witnessed coronations residing around a series of Neo-
Lombarda. Piazza della Loggia, of Charlemagne and Frederick Classical courtyards off Strada
where the market is held, is Barbarossa. Nuova. This road continues
named after the Renaissance north to the 14th-century castle,
loggia, built in Palladian style. now home to the Museo Civico.
The 18th-century church of Northwest of Piazza Castello
San Nazaro e San Celso on is the 12th-century church, San
Via Bronzoni contains an Pietro in Ciel d’Oro. It no longer
altarpiece by Titian. boasts the fine gilded ceiling
after which it is named, but
T Tempio Capitolino does still contain a magnificent
Via Musei 57a. Tel 030 240 shrine to St Augustine, whose
06 40. Open Tue–Sun. & bones were allegedly brought
to Pavia in the 8th century.
E Museo di Santa The body of the philosopher
Giulia
Via Musei 81b. Tel 030 297 Boëthius (c.480–524) is buried
down in the crypt.
78 34. Open Tue–Sun.
& 7
E Museo Civico
E Pinacoteca Civica Castello Visconteo, Viale XI Febbraio 35.
Tosio Martinengo Tel 0382 338 53. Open 10am– 5:50pm.
Via Martinengo da Barcol. Tue–Sun (Jan, Jul, Aug & Dec: 9am–
Tel 030 377 49 99. 1:30pm). Closed public hols. & 7
Open daily. The Roman Tempio Capitolino in Brescia ∑ museicivici.pavia.it



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208  NOR THWEST IT AL Y

w Certosa di Pavia

The Charterhouse 8 km (5 miles) north of Pavia is the pinnacle of
Renaissance architecture in Lombardy, a gloriously decorated Carthusian
monastery built over 200 years. Conceived as a monument to Gian
Galeazzo Visconti, the Milanese ruler who founded the complex in 1396,
this shrine was created by the great
15th-century craftsman Giovanni
Antonio Amadeo, among others,
who used innovative techniques of
relief work and multicoloured
decoration. The Certosa is
still home to Carthusian
monks, who are under
a strict vow of silence.














Pietra Dura Altar
Several of the 17th-century
altars in the chapels have
lavish designs worked in
semi-precious stones
(pietra dura).

KEY
1 The side chapels are richly
decorated with marble, trompe
l’oeil frescoes and ornate altars
and altarpieces.
2 The interior of the church
is largely Gothic.
3 The grilles date from c.1660.
4 The choir stalls (15th century)
are deeply carved and inlaid with
intricate marquetry.
5 The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Tomb of Ludovico il Moro
Visconti (1351–1402) is in the and Beatrice d’Este
south transept. This realistic marble portrait
of Ludovico and his child
6 The New Sacristy is painted bride was begun by
with colourful ceiling frescoes. Cristoforo Solari in 1497,
7 Monk’s cell some 11 years before
8 This delightful arcaded Small Ludovico’s death.
Cloister, with fine terracotta .Bergognone’s Frescoes (c.1488–93)
ornamentation, contains a small This striking portrait of Christ is one of
garden, planted in formal designs. several frescoes by Bergognone in the
9 Main entrance to the Certosa. transept and chapels, together with an
altar painting of Sant’Ambrogio.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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Date 23rd July 2012
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L OMBARD Y  209


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Great Cloister
This huge cloister is Practical Information
reached through the Viale del Monumento 4, Pavia.
Small Cloister. It is framed Tel 0382 92 56 13. @ from Pavia
on three sides by the & Milan. Open Oct–Mar: 9am–
two-storey monks’ cells, noon, 2:30–5pm Tue–Sun; Apr–
each backed by a small Sep: 8:30am–noon, 2:30–6pm
garden. A hatch beside Tue–Sun (Apr: to 5:30pm).
the door permits food (Last adm: 30 mins before
to be delivered without closing.) Donation to guide. &
any communication. 5 7 8
Transport
V Certosa. Followed by 1 km
(0.5 mile) walk












































. Renaissance Façade
. Altarpiece by Perugino The 15th-century lower part of
The six-panel altarpiece was the façade is profusely decorated
painted in 1499 but now only one with statues and carvings of
panel – that depicting God the Roman emperors, saints (here
Father – is original; it is flanked by St Peter), apostles and prophets.
two paintings by Bergognone. The upper part dates from 1500.




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210  NOR THWEST IT AL Y


P Torrazzo
once met. The Piazza del Comune. Tel 0372 49 50 29.
Loggia is now a Open 10am–1pm, 2:30–6pm
war memorial. Tue–Sun. &
The Palazzo del
Comune (town hall) P Palazzo del Comune
is the other major Piazza del Comune. Tel 0372 40 72 91.
building on the Open 10am–5pm daily. Closed
square. It was during meetings, public hols. 7
rebuilt in the 1200s. E Museo Civico
The Museo Civico, Via Ugolani Dati 4. Tel 0372 40 77 70.
in a 16th­century Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
palazzo, houses Closed public hols. & 7
the Pinacoteca, E Museo del Violino
containing paintings, Piazza Marconi 5. Tel 0372 80 18 01.
wood carvings, the Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
cathedral’s treasure Closed public hols. &
and ceramics. The ∑ museodelviolino.org
Museo del Violino
has a large display of
important historic r Sabbioneta
instruments,
The Duomo on Piazza del Comune, Cremona including the Mantua. * 4,400. @ from Mantua.
n Piazza d’Armi 1 (0375 520 39).
Stradivari family
e Cremona collection of violins and master­ ( Wed am. 8 apply at tourist office.
pieces by Amati and Guarnieri. It & ∑ iatsabbioneta.org
* 72,000. V @ n Piazza del
Comune 5 (0372 40 63 91). ( Wed & also tells the history of the violin Sabbioneta is the result of a
Sat. ∑ turismo.comune.cremona.it and the importance of Cremona delightful experiment in the
in the history of violin­making. theory of Renaissance archi tec­
Cremona, a major agricultural On the eastern outskirts of ture. It was built by Vespasiano
market, is most famous for music, the town, on the road to Casal­ Gonzaga Colonna (1531–91) as
thanks to former inhabitants, such maggiore, lies the Renaissance an ideal city, and within its
as the composer Claudio Monte­ church of San Sigismondo hexagonal walls is a perfect
verdi (1567–1643) and the violin­ (closed at lunchtime). It was gridwork arrangement of streets
maker Stradivarius (1644–1737). here in a small chapel that and buildings designed on a
The town itself is dominated by Francesco Sforza married Bianca human scale. The finest
the beautiful Piazza del Comune. Visconti in 1441. The interior is buildings include the splendid
The main attraction is the decorated with 16th­century Teatro All’Antica designed by
exuberant part­Romanesque paintings, altarpieces and Scamozzi, the Palazzo Ducale
Duomo, and its bell tower – said frescoes by artists of the and the frescoed Palazzo del
to be the tallest medieval tower Cremona school (Campi family, Giardino, which may be visited
in Italy – known as the Torrazzo; Gatti and Boccaccino). as part of a tour of the town.
the two are linked by a Renais­
sance loggia. The wonderful
façade is dominated by the Antonio Stradivari and his Violins
large 13th­century rose window The city of Cremona has been
and by a number of intricate synonymous with violin­making
touches, including a small since the 1530s, when Andrea
portico with statues of the Virgin Amati’s instruments became
and saints. Inside, the Duomo is sought after at the royal
decorated with magnificent courts throughout Europe
early 16th­century frescoes and because of their superior
Flemish tapestries, as well as tone to the medieval fiddle.
paintings in the side chapels. However, it was Antonio
The top of the Torrazzo offers Stradivari, known as Stradivarius 19th-century engraving of
(1644–1737) – the pupil of
sweeping views. Outside the Andrea Amati’s grandson Niccolò – Antonio Stradivari
Duomo, note the pulpit where who raised the level of violin
itinerant preachers, including craftsmanship to genius. He went walking in the forests of the
San Bernardino of Siena, spoke. Dolomites in search of the perfect wood for his instruments.
Next to the Duomo stands an Stradivarius produced more than 1,100 violins in his workshop,
octagonal 12th­century baptistry. of which more than 400 exist today. The main stopping­off points
On the other side of the piazza on a Stradivarius tour of Cremona are the Museo di Violino, the
you can see the arcades of the string collection in the Palazzo del Comune and the great man’s
late 13th­century Loggia dei tombstone in the public gardens in Piazza Roma.
Militi, where the town’s lords
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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L OMBARD Y І 211


of 15th-century frescoes by
Pisanello, retelling episodes
from the Arthurian legends;
a large portrait by Rubens
(17th century) of the ducal family
in the Salone degli Arcieri; and –
most absorbing of all – the
frescoes by Mantegna in the
Camera degli Sposi (1465–74).
These portray Lodovico
Gonzaga and members of his
family and court in all their
magnificence (pp8–9). The
entire room is decorated with
images of people, animals and
fantastic landscapes, and
completed by a light-hearted
The ceiling of the Camera degli Sposi, by Mantegna, in the Palazzo Ducale trompe l’oeil ceiling of figures,
putti and a blue sky.
t Mantua (15th century), designed largely
by Leon Battista Alberti, the P Palazzo Tè
* 49,000. V @ n Piazza Andrea
Mantegna 6 (0376 43 24 32). ( Thu. early Renaissance architect and Viale Tè. Tel 0376 32 32 66.
∑ turismo.mantova.it theorist, and now flanked by an Open 1–6pm Mon, 9am–6pm
arcade of shops. The square is Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
Mantua (Mantova in Italian) is also notable for the 1 May, 25 Dec. & 7
a striking place of fine squares appealing 11th- ∑ palazzote.it
and aristocratic architecture, century Rotonda At the other end
bordered on three sides by lakes di San Lorenzo, of town stands
formed by the River Mincio. and the part-13th- the early 16th-
The climate can be humid as a century Palazzo century Palazzo
result, but the city makes up for della Ragione with Tè, built by Giulio
it with its cultural history: it was its 15th-century Romano for the
the birthplace of the poet Virgil clock tower. Gonzaga family
and the playground of the Detail from the 15th-century clock as a base from
Gonzaga dukes for three P Palazzo tower on Piazza delle Erbe which they could
centuries. It was also the refuge Ducale go horse riding.
where Shakespeare sent Romeo Piazza Sordello 40. Tel 0376 22 48 32. Here the artworks conspire
into exile from Verona, and the Open 8:15am–7:15pm (to 8:15pm Fri) with the architecture to
setting for Verdi’s opera Rigoletto. Tue–Sun. Last adm: 6pm. Closed 1 produce striking effects: in the
These links are all celebrated in Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. 8 & Camera Sala dei Giganti, for instance,
street names, signposts and degli Sposi: book ahead on Tel 041 the frescoed Titans seem to be
monuments around the town. 241 18 97 or ∑ ducalemantova.org tearing down the very pillars of
The theatrical connections are The vast, 500-room home of the the room. Also remarkable is
enhanced by the 18th-century Gonzaga family covers the the Sala di Amore e Psiche,
Teatro Accademico Bibiena, on northeastern corner of the town decorated with erotic scenes
Via Accademia, which Mozart’s and incorporates Castello San from Apuleius’ Golden Ass and
father claimed was the finest Giorgio (a 14th-century fortress), said to celebrate Federico II’s
he had ever seen. a basilica, and the palace proper. love for his mistress. Other
Mantua is focused on three The many works of art rooms are lavishly painted with
attractive main squares: Piazza include an unfinished series horses and signs of the zodiac.
delle Erbe, Piazza Broletto,
named after the 13th-century
building adorned with a statue
of the poet Virgil, and the
cobbled Piazza Sordello. On one
side of Piazza Sordello is the
Duomo, with an 18th-century
façade and fine interior stuccoes
by Giulio Romano (c.1492–1546);
on another side, the forbidding
façade of the Palazzo Bonacolsi,
with its tall prison tower. Piazza
delle Erbe is dominated by
the Basilica di Sant’Andrea The 13th-century façade of Palazzo Ducale overlooking Piazza Sordello
Late Renaissance fresco, by Romano, in the Duomo di Mantua, Mantua



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NOR THWEST IT AL Y  215

VALLE D’AOSTA

AND PIEDMONT


Piedmont and the neighbouring Valle d’Aosta are –
apart from Turin and its cultural splendours – essentially
countryside. To the north lie the Alps, with ski resorts
such as Courmayeur, and the wild stretches of the Parco
Nazionale del Gran Paradiso. To the south lie the vineyard-
clad hills around Barolo, and seemingly endless fields of grain
and rice, used in the local dish, risotto.
The northwest is also rich in culture. chapels known as sacri monti (sacred
From the 11th century to the 18th, both mountains) built into the foothills of the
the verdant Valle d’Aosta and Piedmont Alps. Piedmont also spawned a school of
were part of the French-speaking painting, which is in evidence in the small
principality of Savoy and enjoyed the parish churches and excellent fine art
influences of both sides of the Alpine collections in the region. The most
divide. Even today, French and dialectal impressive architecture in the northwest,
variants are still spoken in the remote however, is undoubtedly to be found in
valleys of Piedmont and in much of the Turin, a much underrated and surprisingly
Valle d’Aosta. It was only under Duke elegant Baroque city which boasts, among
Eman uele Filiberto in the 16th century other things, one of the best Egyptian
that the region was brought definitively museums in the world. Piedmont is also
into the Italian sphere of influence; and known for its industry – Fiat in Turin,
later it was to play the key role in the Olivetti in Ivrea, Ferrero in Alba – but it
Risorgimento (see pp66–7), the ambitious has not forgotten its agricultural roots,
movement that united Italy under a king and food and drink play an important
from Piedmont. The vestiges of this history role in the life of the region: the hills of
are to be found in the medieval castles southern Piedmont produce many
of the Valle d’Aosta and the clusters of of the great Italian red wines.























Traditional pavement café in the heart of Turin
Banners hanging outside of the Gothic Duomo in Asti, Piedmont



214-215_EW_Italy.indd 215 25/05/2016 10:47

216  NOR THWEST IT AL Y
Corno Cieco
3374m Riale
Formazza
Exploring Valle d’Aosta and Piedmont
Goglio
The vast flat plain of the Po, covered with the watery expanse of rice Monte Baceno
fields around Vercelli and Novara, eventually gives way, in the west, to the 3552m Crodo Pizzo la Scheggia
Leone
majestic heights of the Alps. Turin, the largest city in the area and the capital Varzo 2466m
of Piedmont, stands at the edge of the plain, nestling almost in the shadow Bognanco Craveggia Bellinzona
of the mountains. Further northwest, attractive Alpine valleys headed by DOMODOSSOLA
dramatic peaks provide the setting for the traditional villages, ancient Villadossola Cannobio
towns and castles around Aosta. The Parco Nazionale del Pizzo San Martino Lago di
Gran Paradiso is an unspoiled tract MONTE CERVINO MONTE 2733m Toce Maggiore
Macugnaga
of breathtaking scenery. COLLE DEL GRAN Breuil-Cervinia ROSA Rimella Ornavasso Verbania
SAN BERNARDO Valtournenche Stresa
Chamonix Saint- Rimasco Omegna
Jacques
MONTE BIANCO Entreves Saint-Rhémy Champoluc VARALLO LAGO D’ORTA
Courmayeur Monte Fallère Lignan Scopello Orta San Giulio
3061m Nus Chatillon Sesi a Gozzano Arona
La Thuile AOSTA
Villeneuve Fénis Borgosesia
VALLE D’AOSTA Verres Issime Trivero Borgomanero Varese
Valgrisenche Issogne Valle Mosso
Valsavarenche Cogne Lillaz SANTUARIO Gattinara Oleggio
D‘OROPA
PARCO NAZIONALE Valnontey Biella
DEL GRAN PARADISO Settimo Vittone Graglia Carpignano Sesia
Pont Gran Paradiso Buronzo Gallianta
4061m
CERESOLE Monte Colombo Ivrea NOVARA Milano
2848m
REALE Noasca Cavaglia
Orco Cuorogne Trecate
Forno Chialamberto Strambino Santhià Sesia Borgo Vespolate
Vercelli
Agliè
Balme Ceres C a n a v e s e CigIiano VERCELLI
Rice fields around Vercelli Monte Servin Foglizzo Desana
3108m Viú Ciriè Stroppiana
Margone
Fiano Volpiano Trino
Sights at a Glance SUSA VENARIA REALE Chivasso Crescentino Casale
1 Monte Bianco AVIGLIANA SUPERGA Cocconato Monferrato
2 Colle del Gran Bardonecchia A L T A V A L S U S A SACRA DI Occimiano
SAN MICHELE
Ottiglio
San Bernardo Alpe Rivoli TURIN Chieri M o n f e r r a t o Vignale Po Milano
3 Monte Cervino Sauze d’Oulx Pragelato Orbassano Moncalieri Calliano Monferrato Valenza
4 Monte Rosa Sestriere Cumiana STUPINIGI Montemagno Sale Piacenza
5 Aosta Claviere Villar Perosa Pontecurone
6 Parco Nazionale del Gran Briancon A Ghigo PINEROLO Carignano Poirino ASTI Tanaro Alessandria Tortona
l
Paradiso pp220–21 p PIEMONTE
7 Ceresole Reale i Bobbio Cavour Sommariva Canale Belbo Villalvernia

8 Alta Val Susa Pellice Racconigi del Bosco Agliano Nizza Mombaruzzo San Sebastiano
Novi
9 Susa Barge Monferrato Cassine Ligure Scrivia Curone
C
0 Sacra di San Michele o Crissolo Paesana Bra Alba Canelli Acqui Gavi Arquata Scrivia
q Avigliana z Monte Viso Po Savigliano Terme
i 3841m Saluzzo Bubbio Ovada Montaldo
w Pinerolo e Molare di Cosola
e Turin (Torino) pp224–9 Sampeyre Verzuolo Fossano Narzole Cortemilia Ponzone Voltaggio Genova
r Palazzina di Caccia Stupinigi Pelvo d’Elva Varaita Venasca Maira Dogliani
t Basilica di Superga Chiappera 3064m Busca Centallo L a n g h e Spigno Monferrato
y Venaria Reale Dronero Stura Carrù Murazzano
u Santuario d’Oropa Monte Oronaye Canosio Caraglio Morozzo
3100m
i Domodossola Argentera CUNEO Ceva
o Varallo Borgo San Mondovì
p Lago d’Orta Demonte Dalmazzo Boves Frabosa Savona
a Novara Mont Tenibre Soprana Bagnasco
3031m
s Vercelli Parco Naturale BOSSEA
Entracque
d Asti dell'Argentera CAVES GARESSIO
f Cuneo Cima dell’Argentera Limone
3297m
g Bossea Caves Monaco Upega Ormea
h Garessio Nice
For additional map symbols see back flap
216-217_EW_Italy.indd 216 4/4/17 5:33 PM
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Date 6th August 2012
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V ALLE D ’ A OST A AND PIEDMONT  217
Corno Cieco
3374m Riale
Formazza
Goglio
Monte Baceno
Leone Crodo
3552m Pizzo la Scheggia
Varzo 2466m
Bellinzona
Bognanco Craveggia
DOMODOSSOLA
Villadossola
Cannobio
Pizzo San Martino Lago di
2733m
MONTE CERVINO MONTE Macugnaga Toce Maggiore
ROSA Ornavasso
COLLE DEL GRAN Breuil-Cervinia Rimella Verbania
SAN BERNARDO Valtournenche Stresa
Chamonix Saint- Rimasco Omegna
Jacques
MONTE BIANCO Entreves Saint-Rhémy Champoluc VARALLO LAGO D’ORTA
Courmayeur Monte Fallère Lignan Scopello Orta San Giulio Turin, the capital of Piedmont, in the valley of the Po
3061m Nus Chatillon Sesi a Gozzano Arona
La Thuile AOSTA
Villeneuve Fénis Borgosesia
VALLE D’AOSTA Verres Issime Trivero Borgomanero Varese Getting Around
Valgrisenche Issogne Valle Mosso
Valsavarenche Cogne Lillaz SANTUARIO Gattinara Oleggio The Fréjus Pass and the Mont Blanc Tunnel
D‘OROPA
PARCO NAZIONALE Valnontey Biella link France with northwest Italy, while the
DEL GRAN PARADISO Settimo Vittone Graglia Carpignano Sesia tunnel under the Simplon or Sempione
Pont Gran Paradiso Buronzo Gallianta Pass provides a direct rail route from
4061m
CERESOLE Monte Colombo Ivrea NOVARA Milano Switzerland. From the rest of Italy there
are excellent motorway connections
2848m
REALE Noasca Cavaglia
Orco Cuorogne Trecate across the plain to Turin and up to Aosta.
Forno Chialamberto Strambino Santhià Sesia Borgo Vespolate The region is well served with rail links,
Vercelli
Agliè
Balme Ceres C a n a v e s e CigIiano VERCELLI and buses connect the main towns and
outlying resorts. Getting around the
Monte Servin Foglizzo Desana mountains is more difficult, making
3108m Viú Ciriè Stroppiana
Margone the car the best method of transport.
Fiano Volpiano Trino
SUSA VENARIA REALE Chivasso Crescentino Casale
AVIGLIANA SUPERGA Monferrato
Bardonecchia A L T A V A L S U S A SACRA DI Cocconato Occimiano
SAN MICHELE Po Milano
Ottiglio
Alpe Rivoli TURIN Chieri M o n f e r r a t o
Sauze d’Oulx Pragelato Orbassano Moncalieri Calliano Vignale Valenza
Monferrato
Cumiana STUPINIGI Montemagno Sale Piacenza
Claviere Sestriere Pontecurone
Villar Perosa
PIEMONTE
Briancon A Ghigo PINEROLO Carignano Poirino ASTI Tanaro Alessandria Tortona
l
p
Bobbio Sommariva Canale Belbo Villalvernia
i

Pellice Cavour del Bosco Agliano Nizza Mombaruzzo

Racconigi Monferrato Scrivia San Sebastiano
Novi

Barge Cassine Ligure Curone
C
Crissolo Bra Canelli
Paesana Alba Acqui Gavi Arquata Scrivia
o
Monte Viso Po Savigliano Terme
z
3841m Bubbio Montaldo
Saluzzo di Cosola
i Ovada
e
Sampeyre Fossano Ponzone Genova
Verzuolo Narzole Cortemilia Molare Voltaggio
Pelvo d’Elva Varaita Maira Dogliani
3064m Venasca Busca L a n g h e Spigno Monferrato Castello di Fénis in the Valle d’Aosta
Chiappera Centallo Carrù
Monte Oronaye Dronero Stura Murazzano
3100m Canosio Caraglio Morozzo 0 kilometres 25
Argentera CUNEO Mondovì Ceva 0 miles 20
Borgo San
Dalmazzo Savona
Demonte Boves Frabosa Key
Mont Tenibre Soprana Bagnasco
3031m Motorway Main railway
Entracque BOSSEA
CAVES Major road Minor railway
Parco Naturale
dell'Argentera
Cima dell’Argentera Limone GARESSIO Secondary road International border
3297m
Ormea Minor road Regional border
Monaco Upega
Nice Scenic route Summit
216-217_EW_Italy.indd 217 4/4/17 5:33 PM

218 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y


1 Monte Bianco The Monks’ Hospice, founded the re sort of Breuil-Cervinia.
around 1050 by St Bernard of From Breuil a cable car rises
Aosta. V Pré-St-Didier. @ Cour ma-
yeur. n Piazzale Monte Bianco 13, Aosta, lies just over the Swiss to the Plateau Rosa (3,480 m,
Courmayeur (0165 84 20 60). border (bring your passport), 11,418 ft), offering dramatic
∑ lovevda.it on the shores of a lovely views of the surrounding
lake; the dogs are still being mountains. This entire area is
Monte Bianco (Mont Blanc), the trained here. The pretty Great a paradise for both skiers
tallest mountain in the Alps at St Bernard valley and walkers.
4,810 m (15,780 ft), dominates itself includes
the western Aosta valley and the town of
its attractive all-year resort, Etroubles, set 4 Monte Rosa
Courmayeur. A series of cable in a forest of Aosta. V Verrès. @ St-Jacques.
car rides from Entrèves, conifers, the n Route Varasc, Champoluc/Ayas
5 km (3 miles) further hamlet of St-Oyen (0125 30 71 13).
north, leads to Chamonix. with its pretty parish
Passing its highest point church, and the Monte Rosa, Italy’s second-
(3,842 m, 12,606 ft) resort of St-Rhémy- highest mountain, overlooks
at Aiguille du Midi, en-Bosses. the picturesque Ayas and
it offers a spec tacular A St Bernard dog Gressoney valleys. The rolling
view. From Pré-St- P Monks’ Hospice lower Ayas valley is domin ated
Didier, below Courmayeur, the Colle San Bernardo, Switzerland. by the ruins of the 11th-century
Little St Bernard Pass, with its Tel 00 41 277 87 12 36. Open daily. Castello di Graines and its
small glaciers, forests and Romanesque chapel, dedicated
ravines, can be explored. to St Martin. Higher up, the
3 Monte Cervino resort of Champoluc has a
cable car connection with the
Aosta. V @ Breuil-Cervinia.
2 Colle del Gran n Via Circonvallazione 2, Breuil- striking Testa Grigia (3,315 m/
San Bernardo Cervinia (0166 94 91 36). 10,877 ft). The Gressoney valley
is home to the Walser people,
Aosta. V @ Aosta. n Strada The distinctive triangular who speak a German dialect.
Nazionale Gran San Bernardo 13, peak of Monte Cervino (the At the bottom of the valley,
Etroubles (0165 785 59). Open daily. Matterhorn) rises to 4,478 m north of Pont-St-Martin, lies
(14,691 ft) and is easily Issime: the 16th-century church
The Great St Bernard Pass is recognizable. Below the here has a fresco of the Last
synonymous with the hardy mountain lies a scattering of Judgment on its façade.
mountain rescue dogs that have attractive villages like Antey-St-
been trained locally by Catholic André, Valtournanche (which + Castello di Graines
monks since the 11th century. gave its name to the valley) and Graines, Strada Statale 506.

Medieval Castles and Forts in the Valle d’Aosta
The mountains alone provided insufficient protection was also important to Vittorio Emanuele II, owner of
to the fragmented fiefs that covered the Valle d’Aosta Sarre, who turned the halls of his fortress into a
in the Middle Ages. The medieval lords, who ruled plush hunting lodge. The owners of Châtelard, set
ruthlessly over their small domains, built castles to in some of the highest vineyards in Europe, placed
enforce their often fragile power. Of the many built, fine wine production alongside military aims.
70 castles survive in some form to this day. You will
pass a number of them if you drive into Italy by
the Mont Blanc tunnel; they stretch from Aosta
to Pont-St-Martin.
Originally Aosta castles were designed to be
defensive and threatening, such as the looming
tower of Montmayer, perched high on a huge
rock by the Valgrisenche valley. Nearby, the equally
forbidding dark tower of Ussel throws a melancholy,
brooding watchfulness over the valley.
Fénis and Verrès represent an important shift in
the function of the feudal castle. Both Fénis, a
splendid 14th-century showpiece (see p188), and
Verrès were not just import ant military outposts but
also examples of palatial opulence and good living.
Issogne, too, furthered this luxurious trend with its
elaborate frescoes, loggias and fountains. Decoration The strategically sited 14th-century castle at Verrès

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v1.3)
Date 13th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

V ALLE D ’ A OST A AND PIEDMONT І 219


originally stood about altered many times since.
2.5 m (8 ft) higher than The interior is Gothic, with finely
at present. Also worth a carved 15th-century choir stalls,
look is the 20 m- (65 ft-) and floor mosaics. Next door,
high façade of the the Museo del Tesoro contains
Roman Theatre. A little a rich collection of statuettes
to the north is the and reliquaries, and a number
elliptical amphitheatre, of impressive medieval tombs.
although this is almost
completely buried R Sant’Orso
The 12th-century cloister, with 40 carved columns of apart from three Via Sant’Orso. Open daily. 7
darkened marble, in Sant’Orso columns, which form East of the town walls is the
part of the convent of architectural highlight of Aosta:
5 Aosta San Giuseppe. In the old town, a medieval complex of church
next to the cathedral, lies the buildings. Sant’Orso itself has an
* 35,000. V @ n Piazza Porta
Pretoria 3 (0165 23 66 27). ( Tue. Roman Forum, or marketplace, unusual Gothic façade with a
∑ lovevda.it with its huge crypto porticus: narrow, tall portal. The interior
the function of this impressive has 11th-century frescoes,
Lying on a plain surrounded by underground gallery remains a crypt hold ing the tomb of
dramatic mountains, the town the subject of speculation. St Orso, patron saint of Aosta,
of Aosta provides a remarkable and a beautiful cloister with
mixture of ancient culture and carved columns and capitals.
spectacular scenery. The
Romans cap tured it from Environs
the Salassian Gauls in The castle at Fénis(see p188),
25 BC, and Aosta is still 12 km (8 miles) east, is one of
dotted with fine Roman the few castles in the Aosta
architecture built in valley with a well-preserved
honour of Emperor interior, including beautiful
Augustus – indeed the frescoes and wooden galleries.
town was once called Augusta Issogne, 38 km (23 miles)
Praetoria, its name only Detail of a medieval mosaic on the south east, is the setting for
evolving into Aosta over the floor of Aosta’s Cattedrale another highly decorated castle,
centuries. The medieval town remod elled around 1490. It has
was later fortified by the R Cattedrale many frescoes and decorative
Challant family and then by the Piazza Papa Giovanni XXIII. Open motifs, including an octagonal
Dukes of Aosta, who added 6:30am– 12:30pm, 2–7:30pm Mon–Fri, fountain with a centrepiece in
towers to the old Roman walls. 7am–noon, 2–6pm Sat & Sun (early the shape of a pomegranate tree.
Modern Aosta is a bustling Sep–Easter: 6:30am–noon, 3–7pm).
crossroads for local industries Museo del Tesoro: Tel 0165 404 13. + Castello di Fénis
and tourists on their way to the Open 3–5:30pm Sat & Sun. Closed Fénis. Tel 0165 76 42 63. Open daily.
mountains. The centre, how ever, during religious services. & Closed Tue (Oct–Feb), 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
still consists of a delightful grid This relatively modest shrine to + Castello di Issogne
of large squares and surprising St John the Baptist was first built Issogne. Tel 0125 92 93 73. Open daily.
architectural treasures, which in the 12th century, but has been Closed Wed (Oct–Feb), 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
justify Aosta’s nickname of
“Rome of the Alps”.
T Roman Ruins
Roman Theatre: Via Baillage. Open
9am–7pm daily (Mar: to 6pm; Oct:
to 6:30pm; Nov–Feb: to 5pm).
Roman Forum: Piazza Papa Giovanni
XXIII. Open daily.
In Roman times, entry to Aosta
was over the bridge to the east
of the town (beyond the modern
bridge) and through the Arch of
Augustus. This triumphal arch is
today marred by a roof added in
the 18th century. Ahead stands
the Porta Pretoria, its double
row of stone arches flanked by
a medieval tower; the gateway Some of the impressive ruins standing in the Roman Forum in Aosta




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220  NOR THWEST IT AL Y

6 Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso

A breathtaking wilderness of dramatic
mountains and lush meadows, the Gran
Paradiso is Italy’s foremost national park,
created in 1922 from part of a former royal
hunting reserve of the House of Savoy.
It is mainly a summer resort for walkers due
to its unspoiled scenery, rare wildlife and
unusual Alpine flowers, though there is
also cross-country skiing during the winter
months. The king of the park is the ibex, a Castello di Aymavilles
relative of the goat family all but extinct in The 18th-century core of this
the rest of Europe. The park is also prized castle is framed by medieval
by naturalists for its chamois, ptarmigan, corner towers. Aosta
golden eagles, rare butterflies and marmots. Arvier
Villenuve Aymavilles
Pondel

Rhêmes-
St-George val di
R47 cogne
val di rhemes val che Valsavarenche




Rhêmes- savaren J
Notre-Dame Col Lauson Valnontey
Eaux-Rousses
J
Val di Rhêmes-Notre-Dame Piccolo
This peaceful and broad valley offers J Paradiso
magnificent scenery, with waterfalls valnontey
and fast-flowing streams running Pont 3,923 m
from the glacier at its head. Gran (12,867
Paradiso ft)
4,061 m
(13,320
ft)



Noasca
KEY
Ceresole Reale
1 Goletta Waterfall is an
impressive cascade near the
Lago di Goletta.
2 Cogne is the main resort and a
good base from which to explore the
park. Maps of the park’s routes and
foot paths are available here.
3 Lillaz is sedate and off the beaten
track, while Valnontey and Cogne are 0 kilometres 5
two of the busiest resorts. 0 miles 5


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


220-221_EW_Italy.indd 220 4/5/17 10:23 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v1.8)
Date 23rd July 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

V ALLE D ’ A OST A AND PIEDMONT  221


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta.
n Segreteria Turistica, Cheriettes
Aymavilles (0165 90 26 93);
Centro Visitatori Parco Nazionale
del Gran Paradiso, Ceresole Reale
(0124 95 31 66). 8 Paradisia
Alpine Garden: Valnontey, Cogne.
Tel 0165 753 01. Open mid-Jun–
early Sep: 10am–5:30pm daily (Jul
. Paradisia & Aug: to 6:30pm). & 7
Alpine Garden ∑ pngp.it ∑ grand-paradis.it
The botanic garden Transport
contains a collection of V Aosta & Pont Canavese.
Alpine plants, in cluding @ from Aosta or Pont Canavese
the delicate “twinflower”.
to the different valleys.
Aymavilles
Cascata di Lillaz
This tall, dramatic waterfall,
situated a little to the east
of the rustic village of Lillaz,
is best observed after the
val di
spring snow melt.
cogne
Épinel

Cogne
J Lillaz
J
Col Lauson Valnontey
. Valnontey
This lovely valley, after
J which the resort is named,
Piccolo provides dramatic views of
Paradiso valnontey glaciers and easy access to
various footpaths.
3,923 m
(12,867
ft)



valle di
piantonetto
Pont Canavese
Noasca Cuorgne
Ceresole Reale
Pont Canavese
S460
Cuorgne
Pont Canavese
Cuorgne
Key
Main road Male Ibex
The ibex lives largely above the
tree line. Groups are often seen
around Col Lauson at dawn and
dusk, and also around Pont in June.




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222 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y

8 Alta Val Susa
Turin. V Oulx. @ to Sauze d’Oulx.
n Via Louset, Sestriere (0122 75 54
44). ∑ turismotorino.org
The closest ring of mountain
resorts to Turin, and as a
consequence popular for
weekend excursions, is also
known colloquially as the Via
Lattea or “milky way”. Villages
such as Bardonecchia and
Sauze d’Oulx preserve traditional
old stone and wood buildings
that have been a feature of the
region for centuries. The small
church in Bardonecchia has, in The impressive part-Roman gateway, Porta
addition, a fine 15th­century Savoia, in Susa
carved choir. In contrast, the
super­modern complex at chieftain and the Emperor
Sestriere was purpose­built to Augustus. Other relics from the
accommodate skiers in winter Roman period include two
and hikers in summer. arches of an aqueduct, sections
From Bardonecchia, a chairlift of an amphitheatre and traces
The small resort of Ceresole Reale under operates some of the way up of the old town walls. Porta
winter snow Punta Colomion, which rises Savoia, an imposing Roman
immediately to the south of the gateway dating from the
7 Ceresole Reale resort. The summit, at 2,054 m 4th century, was remodelled
(6,738 ft), offers fine views,
in the Middle Ages.
Turin. @ to Ceresole Reale. and numerous hiking and Most of the historic centre of
n Palazzo Comunale, Ceresole walking possibilities. the town is medieval, including
Reale (0124 95 32 00). the castle of Countess Adelaide
∑ turismotorino.org and the Duomo, both originally
9 Susa 11th century. The Duomo, much
On the southern, Piedmont Turin. * 6,500. V @ n Corso altered since then, houses a
side of the extensive Parco Inghilterra 39 (0122 62 24 47). ( Tue. polyptych (c.1500) attributed to
Nazionale del Gran Paradiso ∑ turismotorino.org Bergognone, and a copy of a
(see pp220–21) lies the small precious 14th­century Flemish
resort of Ceresole Reale. The This attractive mountain town triptych portraying the Virgin
route from Cuorgnè traverses flourished in Roman times: the and Saints. South of the town
rolling countryside and follows Arch of Augustus, built in 8 BC, lies the Gothic church of San
the S460 along a narrow gorge commemorates the alliance Francesco, surrounded by an
with a cascading stream. between the local Gaulish area of early medieval houses.
At Noasca, a spectacular
waterfall may be seen high
above the houses.
Ceresole Reale lies in a basin
surrounded by meadows and
forests of larch, and framed
by mountains – the Gran
Paradiso range to the north,
Levanna to the southwest.
The mountains are reflected
in the clear waters of a spec­
tacular artificial lake, which is
actually a dammed reservoir,
providing energy to supply
Turin with electricity. This
nevertheless unspoiled corner
of the country is an excellent
base for walking, climbing
and hiking, and also offers
facilities for skiing during the
winter months. A street in the traditional village of Bardonecchia, in Alta Val Susa
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


222-223_EW_Italy.indd 222 4/4/17 5:34 PM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v1.3)
Date 13th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

V ALLE D ’ A OST A AND PIEDMONT І 223


(13th–14th century) contains
early 16th-century paintings by
Defendente Ferrari.

w Pinerolo
Turin. * 36,000. V @ n Viale
Giolitti 7/9 (0121 79 55 89). ( Wed &
Sat. ∑ turismotorino.org
Pinerolo lies in an attractive
setting beside hills at the
Carved capitals on the Porta dello Zodiaco at the Sacra di San Michele confluence of the Lemina and
Chisone valleys. The town was
0 Sacra di San 16th-century paintings and the capital of the Acaia family,
Michele frescoes, and a 16th-century a branch of the House of Savoy,
triptych by the Piedmontese and in the 14th and 15th
Strada Sacra San Michele. Tel 011 93 artist Defendente Ferrari. The centuries it was known for the
91 30. @ May–Sep: Sun pm from crypt holds the tombs of the cultural atmosphere that
Avigliana & Turin. Open 9:30am–noon, early dukes and princes of the prevailed here under the family’s
2:30–6pm Tue–Sun (mid-Oct–mid- House of Savoy-Carignano. patronage. However, the town
Mar: to 5pm). Phone to arrange group
visits. & ∑ sacradisanmichele.com enjoyed none of the stability of
Turin: it was occupied by the
This somewhat forbidding q Avigliana French five times between the
abbey complex is perched on Turin. * 12,000. V @ n Corso 15th and 18th centuries. During
a ridge halfway up Monte Laghi 389 (011 93 11 873). the 17th century the French
Pirchiriano, at 962 m (3,156 ft). ( Thu. ∑ turismoavigliana.it demolished many of the town’s
Its monastic community was ancient buildings in order to
founded around the year 1000, On a fine day, this small town make Pinerolo a defensive
possibly on the site of a perched beside two glacier-fed stronghold; among the political
previous sanctuary, though the lakes and encircled by tall prisoners allegedly held here
exterior looks every bit as much mountains looks breathtakingly was the notorious “Man in the
a fortress as the spiritual refuge beautiful. Avigliana is overlooked Iron Mask”. Today the town is a
that it was for 600 years. by a castle, first erected in the busy centre of commerce.
During its prime, the abbey mid-10th century but now in A number of monumental
attracted pilgrims on their way ruins, which was once the home buildings do remain, however.
to Rome, and as a result it grew of the Counts of Savoy. Until the The Duomo, at the centre of
enormously wealthy and early 15th century the town was the town, was remodelled in
powerful, controlling over 100 one of their favourite bases. Gothic style in the 15th–
other abbeys in Italy, France and The medieval houses here are 16th centuries and has a fine
Spain. It was subsequently largely unspoiled, particularly in portal and an impressive bell
looted several times, despite the two main piazzas, Santa tower. Via Principi d’Acaia climbs
being fortified, before falling Maria and Conte Rosso. Other up to the 14th-century palace
into decline and eventually buildings of note are the Casa of the Princes of Acaia, and to
being suppressed in 1662. della Porta Ferrata and the the 15th-century church of San
The sanctuary is reached by 15th-century Casa dei Savoia, Maurizio, where the Acaia
climbing 154 steep steps hewn both on Via XX Settembre. princes are buried; beside it rises
out of the rock, which offer The church of San Giovanni a 14th-century bell tower.
wonderful views over the
surrounding countryside and
up to the Alps. At the very top
of this stairway, known as the
Scalone dei Morti (Stairway of
the Dead), is the Romanesque
Porta dello Zodiaco, a doorway
carved with creatures and
symbols relating to the signs
of the zodiac. Beyond the
doorway a few more steps lead
into the church itself, which
dates from the 12th–13th
centuries and incorporates
traces of an earlier building.
The interior houses 15th- and The medieval arcades surrounding Piazza Conte Rosso in Avigliana




222-223_EW_Italy.indd 223 4/4/17 5:34 PM

224 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y

e Turin

Mention Turin (Torino) and most people will think of industry
and prosperity. It is certainly an economic powerhouse but
it is also a town of grace and charm, with superb Baroque
architecture, elegant arcades of shops and excellent museums
set against the dramatic scenery of the foothills of the Alps.
Turin is also, of course, home to the famous Turin Shroud,
the Fiat car company and the Juventus football team.

Exploring Turin was economic. In 1899 the
Though settled by the Romans Agnelli family created the car
(Porta Palatina is an impressive company Fiat (Fabbrica
1st-century-AD relic), and Italiana Automobili Torino),
the seat of a university which grew to be one of
since the Middle Ages, the biggest in Europe.
Turin came into its own After World War II, Turin
only after 1563, when attracted thousands of
Emanuele Filiberto of The Fiat car poor Italians from the Statue of Emperor Augustus in front of
Savoy moved his capital factory logo south who came to work the Roman Porta Palatina
here. Three centuries of in its factories. Though
pro sperity ensued. Turin then there have been social conflicts R Duomo
became the base for Italy’s and labour disputes as a result, Via XX Settembre 87/Piazza San
unification movement and, from managers and workers unite Giovanni. Tel 011 436 15 40. Open
1861 to 1865, the first capital of over football: the Juventus team daily (closed 12:30–3pm). 7
the newly united country. is owned by the Agnelli family. The cathedral, built in 1491–8
Subsequently its main power and dedicated to St John the
MILANO Aeroporto Caselle
NOVARA 15 km (9 miles)
VERCELLI
Turin Town Centre PIAZZA
DELLA
REPUBBLICA
1 Porta Palatina RIVOLI
PIAZZA
2 Duomo Porta C O R S O RE G I N A M A R G H E R I TA
AUGUSTO
3 San Lorenzo VIA MILANO Palatina Teatro ALESSANDRIA
Basilica di Superga
Romano
4 Palazzo Reale ASTI
5 Armeria Reale VIA MERCANTI Duomo Palazzo Giardini
Reale
6 Palazzo Madama Reali
7 Museo Egizio and Galleria VIA S. FRANCESCO D'ASSISI San Armeria C O
Reale
Sabauda VIA S. TOMMASO Lorenzo CASTELLO
PIAZZA
Palazzo
8 Palazzo Carignano Madama Teatro
VIA ROMA PIAZZA CARIGNANO VIA MONTEBELLO Mole
9 Mole Antonelliana V I A P. M I C C A Regio
VIA S. TERESA
Museo Egizio & VIA BATTISTI V I A P O Antonelliana
Galleria Sabauda Palazzo
PIAZZA Carignano V I A G I U S E P P E V E R D I
SAN
CARLO VIA LAGRANGE VIA PR INC I P E A MEDEO
VIA CARLO ALBERTO
V I A X X S E T T E M B R E VIA ROMA VIA GOBETTI VIA CAVOUR VIA SAN FRANCESCO DA PAOLA ALBERTO VIA M. VITTORIA LUNGO PO CADORNA
V I A R O S S I N I R S O S A N M A U R I Z I O
PIAZZA
CARLO
V I A P O
PIAZZA
VIA GIOLITTI
VITTORIO
VENETO
PIAZZA
Ponte
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
CARLO VIA GRAMSCI V I A A C C A D E M I A A L B E R T I N A CAVOUR VI A G IOLI T T I Vittorio
LAGRANGE
FELICE PIAZZA V I A S A N M A S S I M O Emanuele I
BODONI
VIA FRATELLI CALANDRA
Stupinigi V I A D E I M I L L E
VIA CAVOUR
Stazione C O R S O C A I R O L I
Porta Nuova V I A M A Z Z I N I P o
0 metres 500 C O R S O V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I
0 yards 500
Museo dell'Automobile, Ponte
Pinacoteca Giovanni e Parco del Umberto I
For keys to map symbols see back flap Marella Agnelli Valentino
MONCALIERI
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90
224-225_EW_Italy.indd 224 4/4/17 5:34 PM
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(Source v1.3)
Date 13th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

TURIN І 225


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 910,000. n Piazza Castello/
Via Garibaldi (011 53 51 81), also at
Piazza Carlo Felice & Turin Airport.
( Sat. _ 24 Jun: Festa di San
Giovanni. ∑ turismotorino.org
Transport
k Caselle 15 km (9 miles) N.
V Porta Nuova, Piazza Carlo Felice.
Porta Susa, Piazza XVIII Dicembre.
@ Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 131.

staircase and first floor, both
The 15th-century Duomo, with the Cappella della Sacra Sindone beyond designed by Juvarra, houses the
Museo Civico d’Arte Antica. This
Baptist, is the only example of P Palazzo Madama collection contains treasures
Renaissance architecture in Piazza Castello 10. Tel 011 443 35 01. ranging from the Graeco-
Turin. The sober square bell Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon (to 7pm Roman era to the 19th century.
tower, which pre-dates the rest Sun). Last adm: 1 hour before closing. The display includes Portrait of
of the church by 20 years, & free 1st Wed of month. = an Unknown Man by Antonello
stands in refreshing contrast ∑ palazzomadamatorino.it da Messina (15th-century) and
to Turin’s sumptuous Baroque Turin’s main square once reproductions of the Duc de
buildings; its top was designed featured a medieval castle, which Berry’s Book of Hours from around
by Filippo Juvarra in 1720. incorporated elements of the 1420. Glass, jewellery, textiles and
Inside, the Duomo is heavy with original Roman city walls. The furniture are also on display.
MILANO Aeroporto Caselle
NOVARA 15 km (9 miles) statuary and paintings. On the castle was later enlarged
VERCELLI
right side of the church is the and remodelled, and a
PIAZZA Cappella della Sacra Sindone new façade by Juvarra
DELLA
REPUBBLICA (Chapel of the Holy Shroud), was added, at the
RIVOLI AUGUSTO which is incorporated into the request of a royal widow,
VIA MILANO Palatina Teatro ALESSANDRIA Palazzo Reale (see p228). The in the 18th century. The
PIAZZA
Porta
Basilica di Superga
Romano
C O R S O RE G I N A M A R G H E R I TA
chapel is a remarkable feat,
Palazzo Madama – as it
VIA MERCANTI
ASTI
VIA S. FRANCESCO D'ASSISI VIA S. TOMMASO Lorenzo PIAZZA Palazzo Giardini C O designed by Guarino Guarini was renamed – sits in Juvarra in 1718–21
Duomo
Reale
the centre of the square
(1624–83), with an extraordinary
Reali
mesh-like cupola; the exterior
with a stately façade. The The façade of the Palazzo Madama, designed by Filippo
Armeria
San
interior, with its grand
view is equally eccentric.
Reale
Palazzo
V I A P. M I C C A Madama CASTELLO Teatro The Holy Shroud
Regio
VIA ROMA PIAZZA CARIGNANO VIA MONTEBELLO Mole The most famous – and most dubious – holy relic
VIA S. TERESA
Museo Egizio & VIA BATTISTI V I A P O Antonelliana of them all is kept in Turin’s Duomo. The Shroud,
Galleria Sabauda Palazzo said to be the winding-sheet in which the body
PIAZZA Carignano V I A G I U S E P P E V E R D I
SAN of Christ was wrapped after His crucifixion, owes
CARLO VIA LAGRANGE VIA PR INC I P E A MEDEO its fame to the fact that the Shroud bears the
VIA CARLO ALBERTO
V I A X X S E T T E M B R E VIA ROMA VIA GOBETTI VIA CAVOUR VIA SAN FRANCESCO DA PAOLA ALBERTO VIA M. VITTORIA LUNGO PO CADORNA side, and bruises from what might have been
V I A R O S S I N I R S O S A N M A U R I Z I O
imprint of a crucified man with a wound in his
PIAZZA
CARLO
V I A P O
a crown of thorns.
PIAZZA
VIA GIOLITTI
VITTORIO
The Shroud is one of the most famous medieval
VENETO
relics. Its early history is unclear, but the House of
PIAZZA
had it displayed in Guarini’s chapel from 1694.
PIAZZA
Ponte
PIAZZA
CARLO VIA GRAMSCI V I A A C C A D E M I A A L B E R T I N A CAVOUR VI A G IOLI T T I Vittorio Savoy was in possession of it around 1450, and
LAGRANGE
FELICE PIAZZA V I A S A N M A S S I M O Emanuele I
BODONI The “original” Shroud – which sits in a silver casket
Stupinigi V I A D E I M I L L E inside an iron box within a marble coffer – is not on
display, though a replica is, together with a welter of
VIA CAVOUR
Stazione C O R S O C A I R O L I scientific explanations as to the Shroud’s possible
Porta Nuova C O R S O V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I VIA FRATELLI CALANDRA P o origins. In 1988, however, the myth of the Shroud
was exploded: a carbon-dating test showed that
V I A M A Z Z I N I
it dates back no further than the 12th century.
The Shroud nevertheless remains an object of
Museo dell'Automobile, Ponte
Pinacoteca Giovanni e Parco del Umberto I religious veneration.
Marella Agnelli
Valentino Detail of the mysterious 12th-century Holy Shroud
MONCALIERI
224-225_EW_Italy.indd 225 4/4/17 5:34 PM

226 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y

Exploring Turin

Turin boasts numerous interesting museums, often housed in
splendid palazzi and civic buildings. The centre itself is fairly
small, with broad, straight streets, many lined with historic
cafés and shops. The Polo Reale, which includes the Palazzo
Reale, Museo Archeologico, Galleria Sabauda, Biblioteca
Reale, Armeria Reale, Royal Gardens and Palazzo Chiablese,
gives an insight into the importance of the House of Savoy.

The Egyptian Museum provides
a modern, easy-to-navigate
layout, virtual reconstructions
and video guides available
in six languages explaining
the important history of
archaeological missions. The
items on display are arranged
in chronological order, from
4000 BC to AD 700.
The ground floor hosts
monumental statues in rooms
decorated by the Oscar-winning
set designer Dante Ferretti, plus
the reconstruction of the
15th-century-BC Rock Temple
of Ellesija.
Granite statue of Ramses II (13th century BC) On the first floor is the
in the Museo Egizio Coffin Gallery, featuring fine
coffins, such as the14th-
E Museo Egizio century-BC Tomb of Kha and
Via Accademia delle Scienze 6. Merit, complete with the food, Gaudenzio Ferrari’s St Peter and a Donor
Tel 011 440 69 03. Open 9am– tools and ornaments buried (16th century), Galleria Sabauda
6:30pm daily (to 2pm Mon). & 7 with them for the afterlife.
∑ museoegizio.it The Papyrus Room holds a E Galleria Sabauda/
Turin owes its magnificent collection of enormous interest Polo Reale
Egyptian Museum – one of the to scholars: one document, Via XX Settembre 86. Tel 011 56 41 29
most important in the world – the Royal Papyrus, lists all the 31. Open 9am– 6:30pm Tue–Sun (last
largely to the Piedmont-born pharaohs up to the 17th adm 6pm). & 7 ∑ galleria
Bernardo Drovetti, who was dynasty, with their dates. The sabauda.beniculturali.it
stationed in Egypt as French museum holds three different The collection of artworks that
Consul General at the time of the versions of the Book of the Dead, make up the Galleria Sabauda
Napoleonic Wars. It was the booty including the oldest known was originally started in the mid-
he brought back that formed copy. On the second floor to late 1400s, and it has been
the basis of this very fine are artifacts from the Old expanded over the centuries by
collection of Egyptian artifacts. Kingdom to the New Kingdom. the Savoy family. Carlo Alberto
of Savoy opened it to the public,
and later King Vittorio Emanuele
II donated it to the nation.
The collection has moved
a few times, arriving at the
Manica Nuova of the Royal
Palace in December 2014.
The artworks are exhibited on
four floors in chronological
order, from medieval times
to the 1700s, in large, bright
rooms with self-explanatory
paths and multimedia aids
that enrich the visit.
Among works of particular
interest from the Italian schools
Detail from an 18th-dynasty papyrus Book of the Dead, Museo Egizio are Antonio and Paolo Pollaiolo’s
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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Date 13th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

TURIN І 227


The Galleria San Federico, in
the square’s northwestern corner,
is a stylish shopping arcade.
Piazza San Carlo is known for
its society cafés. In one such
establishment, in 1786, Antonio
Benedetto Carpano invented
vermouth, a drink that is still
very popular all over Italy today.
Spacious arcades on Turin’s Via Roma E Pinacoteca Giovanni e
Marella Agnelli
15th­century Tobias and the P Via Roma Lingotto, Via Nizza 230/130. Tel 011 00
Archangel Raphael, the Ritratto Running through the historic 62 713. Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sun
di Gentiluomo by Bronzino centre, Turin’s main street Via (last adm: 6:15pm). & 7 = - 0
and a Madonna con Bambino Roma leads from Piazza Castello ∑ pinacoteca-agnelli.it
by Beato Angelico. Bellini, (north) through Piazza San Carlo Located on the roof of the
Mantegna and Veronese are to the distinctive arched façade former Fiat factory redesigned
among the other Italian artists of Stazione Porta Nuova (south). by architect Renzo Piano, this
represented in the Galleria. Via Roma is a magnificent museum displays art dating
Dutch and the Flemish works concourse lined with stylish from between the 18th and the
include important paintings shops and shaded arcades, 20th centuries, including Manet,
by Jan Van Eyck, such as St interrupted only by cobbled Picasso, Matisse and Modigliani,
Francis (15th century) and squares. A grid pattern of side as well as two statues by Canova.
Rembrandt’s Old Man Sleeping streets branches off either side
(17th century), as well as several of Via Roma, revealing Y Parco del Valentino
portraits by Van Dyck. additional shopping arcades. Corso Massimo d’Azeglio. Open daily.
The fourth floor hosts the Borgo Medioevale: Viale Virgilio 107.
Gualino Collection, which P Piazza San Carlo Tel 011 443 17 01/02. Open Borgo:
contains Roman archaeological The ensemble of Baroque 9am–7pm daily (to 8pm Apr–Oct);
finds, Oriental artworks and a architecture on this pedestrian Castle: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Orto
Venere (Venus) by Botticelli. square has earned it the nick­ Botanico: Tel 011 670 59 80 or 338
name of “Turin’s drawing room”. 958 15 69. Open mid­Apr–mid­Oct:
E Palazzo Carignano At its southern end are the twin 9am–noon Mon–Fri; 3–7pm Sat;
Via Accademia delle Scienze 5. Tel 011 churches of Santa Cristina and 10am–1pm, 3–7pm Sun. & 7
∑ parcovalentino.it
562 11 47. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun San Carlo; both were built in the
(last adm 5pm). & 7 ∑ museo 1630s, though Santa Cri stina has This park contains the Borgo
risorgimentotorino.it a Baroque façade, crowned with Medioevale, a complex of
This Baroque palazzo is not statues, which was designed by medieval buildings erected for
only Guarini’s masterpiece; it is Juvarra in the early 18th century. the General Italian exhibition
arguably the finest building At the centre of the square of 1884. The edifices show
in Turin, with its magnificent stands a 19th­century statue of different designs and construc­
brick façade and ornate Duke Emanuele Filiberto. The tions, based on traditional
rotunda. It was built in 1679 for work, by Carlo Marocchetti, has regional houses and castles.
the Carig nano family – an become an emblem of the city. The Orto Botanico, beside
offshoot of the main House of At the corners of the square, the castle, is an impressive
Savoy and ancestors of the frescoes depict the Holy Shroud. botanical garden.
Italian kings – but came into its
own in the 1800s. The first king
of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II, was
born here in 1820. After Italy
was unified in 1861 by a series
of referenda, the former royal
residence was used as the first
national parliament building.
The palazzo is home to
the Museo Nazionale del
Risorgimento Italiano, which,
through paintings and a
collection of artifacts, tells the
story of unification. It introduces
Mazzini, Cavour and Garibaldi –
key figures in the Risorgimento
(see pp66–7). Looking south across the elegant Piazza San Carlo, “Turin’s drawing room”




226-227_EW_Italy.indd 227 4/4/17 5:34 PM

228 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y

Turin: Symbols of the City

Turin’s architecture mirrors the city’s transition from monarchic
power to industrial power. Witness the ostentation of the
Baroque apartments of the Savoy family in Palazzo Reale,
and contrast them with the futuristic Mole Antonelliana, a tall
structure that heralded the dawn of the modern industrial
age. Much of Turin’s history in the 20th century has been
dominated by the motor car: Fiat is synonymous with Turin.
For the curious, the city’s extensive motor museum is worth
a visit, since it maps out the history of Italian car design.

P Mole Antonelliana/Museo tallest brick building – provides
del Cinema panoramic views from its lift
Via Montebello 20. Tel 011 813 85 60/ and houses the National
61. Panoramic lift: Open 9am–8pm Cinema Museum.
Wed–Mon (to 11pm Sat). & Museo
del Cinema: Open 9am–8pm Wed– P Palazzo Reale/Polo Reale
Mon (to 11pm Sat) (last adm: 1 hr before Piazzetta Reale. Tel 011 436 14 55. The 19th-century tower, Mole
closing). & 7 ∑ museocinema.it Open 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun (last Antonelliana, dominating Turin
This building is the Turin equiva­ adm: 6:20pm). & (free 1st Sun of
lent of the Eiffel Tower in Paris: an month). 8 7 ∑ poloreale. E Armeria Reale/Polo Reale
unmissably tall landmark beniculturali.it Piazetta Reale. Tel 011 436 14 55.
that is a signature for This palace was the Open 9am–6:30pm Tue–Sun
the city. It looks like seat of the Savoy (last adm: 30 mins before closing).
a glorified lightning royal family from Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7
conductor: indeed, 1660 until the uni­ ∑ poloreale-beniculturali.it
in 1953 an electric fication of Italy in One wing of the Palazzo Reale,
storm struck down 1861. Behind the on the northern side of the
the top 47 m (155 ft), austere façade, de ­ main square, provides the
which was later signed by Amedeo di splendid setting for one of the
replaced. The 167­m The interior of San Castellamonte, lie most extensive and breath­
(550­ft) Mole, by Lorenzo’s dome richly decorated state taking collections of arms and
Alessandro Antonelli apartments; the ceilings armoury in the world.
(1798–1888), was meant to be a were painted by Morello, Miel Opened to the public in
synagogue. Upon completion and Seyter in the 17th century. 1832, the armoury originally
in 1889, the city left it without a Splendid furnishings, tapestries belonged to the House of
proper use for years. Eventually, and orna ments date from the Savoy. The fine rooms, such as
it housed the Risorgi mento 17th to the 19th centuries; they the splendid Galleria Beaumont,
museum. The Mole (“massive include the elaborate Chinese designed by Juvarra in 1733,
structure”) – for a time Europe’s Cabinet, the Alcove Room, the hold treasures ranging from
lavishly deco rated Roman and Etruscan times to
Throne Room, and the 1800s. The collec tion has
the innovative Scala magnificent medieval and
delle Forbici, or Renaissance items from some
Scissor Stairs, of the world’s greatest
created by Juvarra armourers and gunsmiths,
in 1720. Behind the including a pistol that belonged
palace are ex tensive to Emperor Charles V. One
gardens designed section is devoted largely to
by André le Nôtre. Oriental arms and armour.
To the left of the The Royal Library contains
main entrance is a collection of drawings,
San Lorenzo. This including a self­portrait by
fine Baroque church, Leonardo da Vinci on view
begun in 1634, is by for special exhibitions only.
architect Guarino
Guarini, its ornate Environs
interior boasting About 5 km (3 miles) out of
another of his the city centre is the vast
A lavishly decorated gallery in the 17th-century Palazzo extraordinary, MAUTO – Museo Nazionale
Reale, a royal residence until unification geometric domes. dell’Auto mobile di Torino.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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V ALLE D ’ A OST A AND PIEDMONT І 229


Founded in 1932, it was t Basilica di
renovated in 2013 by the Superga
architect Cino Zucchi.
MAUTO is a pioneer in the Strada Basilica di Superga 73, about 9.5
art of exhibiting motor cars. km (6 miles) from city centre. @ 15,
Its collection of 200 vehicles 61, 68; or Sassi–Superga Rack Tramway
from Piazzale Modena. Open daily.
includes Fiats, Bugattis, Closed 8 Sep. Royal Tombs & Royal
Maseratis, Lancias and some Apartment: Tel 011 899 74 56. Open
fine foreign cars. The first Mar–Oct: Thu–Tue; Nov–Jan: Sat, Sun &
petrol-driven car made in 25 Dec–6 Jan; Feb: Sun & hols. Closed
Italy (1896) is here, as are the pub hols. ∑ basilicadisuperga.com
first Fiat (1899) and the 1929
Isotta Fraschini coupé de ville, On a hill to the east of Turin,
used to transport Gloria accessible by car and bus, stands
Swanson in the film Sunset the superb Baroque Basilica of
Boulevard. Note that many Superga, built by Juvarra in
sports cars from the 1950s Designs from 1949 for the Ferrari 166 MM 1717–31. The commission came
are right-hand drive, in from Duke Vittorio Amedeo II,
deference to the great British the building was created for in fulfilment of a vow made to
car-makers such as Aston Martin. Duke Vittorio Amedeo II of Savoy the Virgin Mary in 1706 while
and is one of the very finest the French were besieging the
E MAUTO – Museo Nazionale hunting lodges, built on an duke and his army in Turin.
dell’Automobile di Torino impressive scale, reminiscent of The beautiful yellow and white
Corso Unità d’Italia 40. Tel 011 67 76 the palace of Versailles in France. façade is dominated by a large
66. Open 10am–7pm daily (to 9pm Fri The dynamic and complex portico designed like a Classical
& Sat, am only Mon, pm only Tue). & plan incorporates semicircles temple, with a 65 m- (213 ft-)
7 ∑ museoauto.it and an octagon, with the main high dome immediately beyond.
block consisting of a dome It is flanked by twin bell towers.
rising above a circular building The magnificently decorated
from which wings jut out, not interior contains numerous fine
unlike the sails of a windmill. paintings and carvings.
The mass of the central Underneath the Basilica lies
section is lightened by balus- the great mausoleum which
trading topped with urns and houses the tombs of the kings,
figures, while the dome is princes and princesses of Savoy
crowned with an 18th-century from the 18th and 19th centuries.
bronze figure of a stag. The victims of a 1949 air crash
The huge interior includes here, including the Turin football
rooms sumptuously decorated team, are commemorated on
with trompe l’oeil paintings and a plaque behind the Basilica.
frescoes on a hunting theme – Another benefit
the 18th-century Triumph of of visiting the
Diana, for instance, in the Basilica is seeing
main salone. About 40 of those the views
rooms house the interesting over Turin.
Museo d’Arte e di
An interior view of the 18th-century
Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Ammobiliamento, a
museum specializing
r Palazzina di in 17th- and 18th-
century furniture and
Caccia Stupinigi furnishings. Many of
the ornate items on
Piazza Principe Amedeo 7, Stupinigi,
about 13 km (8 miles) from city centre. display in these
Tel 011 358 12 20. @ 4 from Porta rooms were originally
Nuova railway station to Piazza Caio kept in other former
Mario & then 41. Open Tue–Sun. & royal residences.
8 7 ∑ ordinemauriziano.it Outside there are
extensive grounds,
In 1729–30 the architect Filippo which feature an
Juvarra (1676–1736) designed elegant combina tion
a magnificent hunting lodge at of spectacular broad
Stupinigi, 9 km (5 miles) south- avenues, parkland
west of Turin. Known as the and colourful The imposing façade of the 18th-century Baroque Basilica di
Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi, formal parterres. Superga designed by Filippo Juvarra



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230 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y

o Varallo
Vercelli. * 7,500. V @ n Corso
Roma 38 (0163 56 44 04). ( Tue.
∑ atlvalsesiavercelli.it
The small town and tourist
resort of Varallo lies halfway up
the attractive Sesia valley, and
boasts a remarkable church,
Santa Maria delle Grazie.
The late 15th-century church is
notable for its beautiful frescoed
wall depicting the Life of Christ
and trompe l’oeil architectural
elements; the paintings are the
work of Gaudenzio Ferrari
(1484–1546).
A long stairway behind the
The 17th-century Basilica dell’Assunta dominating Sacro Monte, Varallo church (and also a cableway)
climbs up to the extraordinary
y Venaria Reale 4th century by Sant’Eusebio, Sacro Monte, a religious
Bishop of Vercelli. It was inten- community built at an altitude
Piazza della Repubblica 4. Tel 011 499
23 33. V @ Open palace: 9am–5pm ded as a hospice for the poor, of about 610 m (2,000 ft). This
Tue–Sun (to 7pm Sat & Sun); garden: and to honour the “Black “Sacred Mount” was founded
9am–dusk. & ∑ lavenaria.it Madonna” which he had brought as a sanctuary of the New
back from the Holy Land. The Jerusalem in 1486 under the
This grandiose complex dates Madonna, said to be the work of patronage of the Archbishop of
from the mid-17th century, when St Luke himself, is the object of Milan, San Carlo Borromeo.
Charles Emanuel II of Savoy some of the most important The Basilica dell’Assunta,
decided to build a royal hunting pilgrimages in the region. with a 19th-century façade,
lodge on the site of the existing The statue of the Madonna is is set in a tranquil courtyard
town of Altessano Superiore. kept in the restored Basilica with palm trees and a fountain;
Venaria Reale incorporates the Antica (Old Church). Beyond it, the interior is a riot of ornate
Reggia di Diana, a formal palace at the top of the complex, is the Baroque architecture. Dotted
and garden built between 1660 imposing Neo-Classical Basilica around it are over 40 chapels
and 1671, as well as La Mandria, Superiore (Upper Church), representing the sacred sites of
the 30 sq km (12 sq miles) park which was begun in 1885 but Jerusalem, with statues and
surrounding it. completed only in 1960. painted figures positioned in
Venaria’s historical centre front of frescoed backdrops
was designed by Amedeo di painted by Gaudenzio Ferrari,
Castellamonte between 1667 i Domodossola Tanzio da Varallo and others.
and 1690; its focal point is the Verbania. * 19,000. V @
Piazza dell’Annunziata, with n Stazione entrance, Piazza
statues depicting the Angel Matte otti 24 (0324 24 82 65).
Gabriel and the Virgin Mary. ( Sat. ∑ prodomodossola.it
u Santuario At the centre of this pretty
mountain town of Roman
d’Oropa origin lies the Piazza
Mercato, or market square,
Via Santuario d’Oropa 480, Comune di
Biella. Tel 015 255 512 00. V Biella. @ framed by attractive arcades
from Biella. 7 Basilica Antica: Open and houses from the 15th
7:30am–7pm daily. Basilica Superiore: and 16th centuries. The
Open 8:30am–4:30pm (Jun–Sep: to Ossola valley, where the
6:30pm) daily. ∑ santuariodioropa.it town lies, sits in an Alpine
landscape of pasture and
Perched above the wool town of forest sliced by rivers and
Biella stands the tranquil church streams. Pretty villages north
and hospice complex of Oropa, of the town include Crodo,
comprising a series of three with its cold-water mineral
squares surrounded by pale spas, and Baceno, where the
buildings with stone-shingled 14th- to 16th-century church
roofs, cut into the hillside. The contains fine frescoes and Christ Condemned (16th century) in a chapel at
sanctuary was founded in the wood carvings. Varallo’s Sacro Monte
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p565–9 and pp584–90


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Date 13th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

V ALLE D ’ A OST A AND PIEDMONT І 231


views of the lake, climbs to the important buildings stand
church. The path is lined by 21 around Piazza della Repubblica.
chapels, most of them Baroque, They include the beautiful
in which frescoes and life-size Renaissance courtyard of the
figure groups by various artists Broletto (town hall), with its
depict scenes from the life of graceful 15th-century red-brick
St Francis. arcades and covered stairway.
In the centre of the lake Across the piazza is the
rises the picturesque Isola Duomo, rebuilt by the architect
San Giulio. The island was said Alessandro Antonelli in around
to have been liberated from 1865 in Neo-Classical style, with
snakes and monsters by the a huge central doorway. The
4th-century Christian preacher inte rior contains Renaissance
Julius, from whom the island’s paintings of the Vercelli school
name derives. The basilica here and Flemish tapes tries, as well as
is notable for its 12th-century the remains of an earlier sanctu-
The interior of the church of San Giulio in black marble pulpit and for ary on this site: these include the
the centre of Lago d’Orta the 15th-century frescoes – frescoed 12th-century chapel of
including one attributed to San Siro and the 15th-century
p Lago d’Orta Gaudenzio Ferrari, of the cloisters. The octagonal
Virgin and Child Enthroned. Baptistry next door dates in
Novara. V @ g Orta. n Via
Panoramica, Orta San Giulio (0322 90 part from the 5th
51 63). ∑ distrettolaghi.it century and is painted
with medieval scenes
Lago d’Orta is one of Italy’s of the Apocalypse. The
least-visited lakes – unjustly, Museo della Canonica
as it is delightfully set among del Duomo beside the
the foothills of the Alps. Duomo has tombstones
The lake’s main resort is and inscrip tions from
Orta San Giulio, a small town the Roman and early
containing handsome palazzi, Christian eras.
and houses decorated with A few streets away
wrought-iron balconies. In the stands the Basilica di
lakeside Piazza Principale San Gaudenzio. It is
stands the Palazzo della strikingly crowned by
Comunità, a frescoed building an elongated four -
of 1582 resting on arcades. Fresco detail of a horseman (17th century) tiered dome and spire.
A cobbled pathway leads up by Morazzone in San Gaudenzio, Novara Designed by Antonelli,
to the 15th-century church of it is reminiscent of his
Santa Maria Assunta (rebuilt a Novara Mole Antonelliana in Turin (see
in the 17th century), with a * 105,000. V @ n Baluardo p228). At the top of the spire,
Romanesque doorway and an Quintino Sella 40 (0321 39 40 59). ( which is 121 m (400 ft) high, is a
interior that is richly decorated Mon, Thu & Sat. ∑ turismonovara.it statue of San Gaudenzio
with 17th-century frescoes himself. Inside, the late
and paintings. Novara has distant origins as 16th-century church contains a
Above Orta San Giulio is the the Roman city of Nubliaria – fine collection of Renaissance
sanctuary of Sacro Monte, a meaning “surrounded in mist”. and Baroque paintings by artists
UNESCO World Heritage Site Nowadays its delightful arcaded from Piedmont. These include a
built from 1591 to 1770 and streets and squares, and historic notable 17th-century battle
dedicated to St Francis of Assisi. buildings, exude a quiet scene by Tanzio da Varallo, a
A winding path, offering lovely affluence. Many of the most 16th-century altarpiece by
Gaudenzio Ferrari and a fresco
painting by Pier Francesco
Morazzone (c.1572–1626).
R Baptistry
Piazza della Repubblica. Tel 0321 66
16 35. Open 9:30am–noon &
3–5:30pm Sat & Sun.
E Museo della Canonica
del Duomo
Vicolo della Canonica 9. Tel 331 16 59
568. Open 3–6pm Sat & Sun.
View across Lago d’Orta to the Isola San Giulio ∑ novariae.it




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232 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y

s Vercelli Vercelli’s other
important historic
* 47,000. V @ n Viale Garibaldi
90 (0161 58 002). ( Tue & Fri. buildings include
∑ atlvalsesiavercelli.it the imposing 16th-
century Duomo,
Vercelli is the rice capital of the church of San
Europe, set in a vast plain of Cristoforo, with
paddy fields that create the frescoes and a fine
appearance of shimmering Madonna degli
sheets of water stretching far Aranci (both
into the distance. Vercelli itself c.1529) painted by
also developed its own school Gaudenzio Ferrari, Detail of the carving on the 15th-century porch at the
of painting in the 16th century, and the Piazza entrance to the Duomo in Asti
and has one major architectu ral Cavour with its
treasure, the 13th-century medieval arcades. The Museo also a tranquil and noble city
Basilica di Sant’Andrea. Borgogna is the best place to of medieval towers, elegant
The Basilica, standing just admire the masterpieces of the churches and warm red roofs.
across from the railway station, Vercelli school. The main Just north of the main railway
is famous as the first example shopping street, Corso Libertà, station lies the Piazza del
of Italian architecture to be has a handful of attractive 15th- Campo del Palio, the largest
influenced by the Gothic style century houses and courtyards. square in Asti and formerly the
of northern France – note the site of its annual horse race,
beautiful vaulted nave and the E Museo Borgogna now in Piazza Alfieri. The race,
flying buttresses, typical Gothic Via A Borgogna 4/6. Tel 0161 25 27 76. held on the third Sunday of
elements. Overall, however, the Open Tue–Fri pm, Sat am (Mar–mid- September to coincide with
Basilica remains a stunning May also pm), Sun am & pm. Closed the local wine fair, rivals the
achievement in Romanesque 1 Jan, 15 Aug, 1 Nov, 25 Dec. & 8 Palio in Siena (see p345) for
architecture, built from 1219 ∑ museoborgogna.it outrageous horsemanship
to 1227 as part of an abbey for and medieval pageantry.
the papal legate Cardinal Guala Beyond this square lies the
Bicheri. The façade, curiously, triangular-shaped Piazza Alfieri.
changes colour halfway up, A statue here commemorates
the blue-grey of the lower the local poet and dramatist
part turning to red and white Vittorio Alfieri (1749–1803),
in the twin towers; these are in whose honour both this
linked by a double arcade. A square and the main street
carving attributed to Antelami The 13th-century cloisters of the Basilica di were renamed.
(12th century) adorns the Sant’Andrea in Vercelli Corso Alfieri runs the entire
central lunette. length of the old city centre.
The three-aisled interior is At its eastern end stands the
gently illuminated through d Asti 15th-century church of San
rose windows. The muted * 77,000. V @ n Piazza Alfieri 34 Pietro in Consavia, with its
decoration is largely focused (0141 53 03 57). ( Wed & Sat. terracotta decoration,
on the vaul ting, which is ∑ astiturismo.it 17th-century frescoes and
supported by tall, slender attractive cloister. Beside it is the
shafts. Off the north side is the Renowned for its spumante circular Romanesque baptistry
simple 13th-century cloister, (sparkling) wine, Asti is at the which dates from the 10th–12th
beautifully framed by arcades centre of Italy’s most prestigious centuries; it was once the church
rising from clustered columns. wine region (see pp186–7) and of the Knights of the Order of
St John of Jerusalem, who had
their headquarters here.
West of Piazza Alfieri is the
Collegiata di San Secondo
(13th–15th century), named
after Asti’s patron saint,
which houses a Renaissance
polyptych by Gandolfino d’Asti
and 15th-century frescoes.
The area around the western
section of Corso Alfieri contains
a few of the medieval towers
for which the town was once
famous; they include the Torre
The watery expanses of the rice fields around Vercelli dei Comentini, the very elegant
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p565–9 and pp584–90


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V ALLE D ’ A OST A AND PIEDMONT І 233


Torre Troyana and, at the far
end, the Torre Ropa. This was
built on the ruins of a tower
in which San Secondo, a
Roman soldier, was held.
The nearby 14th-century
Gothic Duomo has a 15th-
century porch and, inside,
18th-century frescoes, and
two 12th- to 13th-century
carvings on the west corner
of the transept.
f Cuneo
* 55,000. V @ n Via Amedeo II
8a (0171 69 02 17). ( Tue.
∑ cuneoholiday.com The Castello di Casotto in the hills above the resort of Garessio
Cuneo in Italian means “wedge- 18th-century church of Santa h Garessio
shaped”, and this perfectly Croce has a concave façade by Cuneo. * 3,400. V @ n Corso
describes the sliver of land Francesco Gallo. Statuto 1 (0174 80 31 45). ( Fri.
that the town occupies at Cuneo is a good base for ex - ∑ garessio.net
the confluence of two rivers, ploring the pretty local valleys,
the Gesso and the Stura di such as the Valle Stura, where One of the prettier resorts of
Demonte. In early November rare flowers grow. the Maritime Alps, Garessio is
the town hosts the regional no more than a sprinkling of
cheese fair, with unusual local houses spread out over the
cheese varieties. g Bossea Caves hills, surrounded by woods
The town centres on a large of chestnut trees. It is also a
square, Piazza Galimberti, with Località Bossea, Comune Frabosa popular spa.
its old arcades, where the traders Soprana. Tel 0174 34 92 40. According to legend, the
V Mondovì. @ from Mondovì.
come to hawk their wares every Open daily for guided tours only. & waters here have miraculous
Tuesday. Much of the town was ∑ grottadibossea.com powers: in about AD 980 an
rebuilt in the 18th and 19th octogenarian nobleman found
centuries, providing Cuneo with Some 25 km (16 miles) south instant relief from his kidney and
wide, tree- lined boulevards, of Mondovì, near the end of a circulatory problems by drinking
though the impressive viaduct scenic route that follows the the mineral-rich water. Since then,
that takes the railway line into valley of the Torrente Corsaglia the waters have been drunk for
town dates from the 1930s. The up into the Maritime Alps, are their remedial properties – linked
deconsecrated 13th-century the caves of Bossea, some of in parti cular with the relief of diu-
church of San Francesco has a the finest in Italy. The series of retic and digestive problems –
fine 15th-century portal. The caves contains remarkable and for their refreshing taste.
stalactite columns
and shapes that Environs
have formed over About 10 km (6 miles) west of
many hundreds of Garessio stands the Castello di
thousands of years. Casotto, the dramatically sited
Guided tours lead summer palace used by the
through different House of Savoy. The royal
chambers – some family used to come here to
of them surprisingly enjoy the local mineral water,
vast – following the the attractive scenery and the
underground rivers exceptionally pure air of the hills.
and lakes. The The town of Ormea, 12 km
skeleton of a pre- (7 miles) southwest, is interesting
historic bear, Ursus for its ruined 11th-century
spelaeus, which was castle, its church with late
discovered here, 14th-century Gothic frescoes
is also on display. and its attractive houses.
Bring a sweater –
the temperature + Castello di Casotto
Market day in the enormous Piazza Galimberti at the rarely rises above 9°C Garessio. Tel 0174 81 409. Open call
centre of Cuneo (50°F). ahead for opening times. &




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NOR THWEST IT AL Y  235

Liguria



Liguria is a long, thin coastal strip nestling at the foot of
vine-covered mountains. Here pastel-coloured houses
bask in the Mediterranean sun, while their gardens,
flourishing in the mild climate, are a riot of colourful plants.
In contrast with resorts like Portofino and even Sanremo,
the bustling city of Genoa, for centuries a trading port of
immense power, is the only major population centre.
Genoa has a long history as a seafaring and included the glorious
power, achieving greatness first as a reign of Andrea Doria, who
trading post with ancient Greece and enriched the city by financing the wars of
Phoenicia and, later, as the capital of a Genoa’s European allies through the offices
small commercial empire that at one of the city’s bank. Factionalism among the
stage eclipsed even Venice. The great sea ruling aristocracy, however, and foreign
admiral Andrea Doria came from Genoa, conquest, by the French in 1668 and the
as did the 15th-century explorer of the Austrians in 1734, led to the region’s decline.
Americas, Christopher Columbus. It was only in the early 19th century,
Genoa’s rise began in the 12th century, with unification fervour spreading thanks
when it succeeded in beating the Saracen to native son Giuseppe Mazzini and the
pirates that plagued the Ligurian coast. revolutionary Garibaldi, that Liguria ever
Thereafter, the maritime republic recaptured a glimpse of its former
prospered, profiting from the Crusades prominence. Today, sheltered by the steep
to set up trading posts in the Middle slopes that rise from the sea, faded, elegant
East and marshalling its naval might to mansions lie along the coast, particularly in
humble its rivals. The golden age lasted Sanremo, where aristocrats came to spend
from the 16th to the mid-17th century, the winter at the end of the 19th century.



























Green shutters and rich ochre walls characterize the houses of Portofino
The sunlight harbour of Riomaggiore, one of the Cinque Terre



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236  NOR THWEST IT AL Y

Exploring Liguria

Liguria divides neatly into two parts. The western
coastline, known as the Riviera di Ponente, is a thin strip
of coastal plain stretching across to the French border,
while the eastern coastline, or Riviera di Levante, is more
rugged and picturesque, descending directly into
the sea. Between the two lengths of coast lies the
region’s capital and biggest port, Genoa (Genova).
The faded elegance of the tranquil coastal villages
contrasts with this cramped and busy port which snakes
along the coast, hemmed in between the sea and the Stag motif of the city of Cervo, above
mountains rising steeply behind it. the cathedral doors Milano

Ronco Vobbia
Scrivia
Alessandria Monte Antola
Busalla 1597m Santo
Casella Stefano d’Aveto
Campo Ligure Montebruno Monte Maggiorasca
1799m
Torriglia Rezzoaglio
Urbe Pontedecimo Monte Cóllere
Sassello L i g u r e LIGURIA 1288m
Dego Pegli Doria
Cairo Pontinvrea Monte Béigua Cicagna Taro
Montenotte 1287m Voltri GENOA Uscio Borzonasca
Millesimo Carcare e n n i n o Arenzano Nervi RAPALLO Varese Ligure
Cogoleto
CAMOGLI
Cuneo p Varazze Golfo di Genova S. Margherita Ligure Chiavari San Pietro Vara
Bormida A p Albissola Marina PORTOFINO PENINSULA Lavagna Vara Sesta Godano
Bormida Savona
Genoese street market selling fruit and vegetables Castiglione Chiavarese
Sestri Levante
Calizzano Torre del Mare Moneglia Parma
Bardineto Spotorno Deiva Marina Borghetto
Monte Carmo MARE LIGURE Bonassola di Vara
1389m Finale Ligure
Monterosso al Mare
Erli GROTTE DI TOIRANO t e R i v i e r a d i L e v a n t e CINQUE TERRE La Spezia
Toirano n Corniglia Sarzana
Borghetto
Monesi Santo Spirito e Riomaggiore
Borghetto n LERICI
d’Arroscia ALBENGA o PORTOVENERE
Arroscia P Isola Palmaria Bocca di
Rezzo Pisa
Triora Magra
Testico Alassio
Chiusavecchia Laiguéglia d i
Monte Ceppo
Pigna 1627m CERVO a
Baiardo Montalto Ligure r
Airole Diano Marina e
Ceriana i
DOLCEACQUA San Taggia Imperia i v
Monaco Romolo BUSSANA VECCHIA R Sights at a Glance
SANREMO 1 Balzi Rossi
BALZI Ventimiglia 2 Villa Hanbury
ROSSI VILLA HANBURY 3 Dolceacqua
4 Sanremo
5 Bussana Vecchia
6 Cervo
7 Albenga
Key 8 Grotte di Toirano
Motorway Minor railway 9 Genoa (Genova) pp240–43
Major road International border 0 Camogli
Secondary road Regional border q Portofino Peninsula
Minor road Summit w Rapallo
e Cinque Terre
Scenic route
r Portovenere
Main railway t Lerici
For additional map symbols see back flap
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LIGURIA  237
















Milano The smart resort of Sanremo on the Riviera di Ponente, west of Genoa

Ronco Vobbia
Scrivia
Alessandria Monte Antola
Busalla 1597m Santo
Casella Stefano d’Aveto
Campo Ligure Montebruno Monte Maggiorasca
1799m
Torriglia Rezzoaglio
Urbe Pontedecimo Monte Cóllere 0 kilometres 25
Sassello L i g u r e LIGURIA 1288m 0 miles 10
Dego Pegli Doria
Cairo Pontinvrea Monte Béigua Cicagna Taro
Montenotte 1287m Voltri GENOA Uscio Borzonasca
Millesimo Carcare e n n i n o Arenzano Nervi RAPALLO Varese Ligure
Cogoleto
CAMOGLI
Cuneo p Varazze Golfo di Genova S. Margherita Ligure Chiavari San Pietro Vara
Bormida A p Albissola Marina PORTOFINO PENINSULA Lavagna Vara Sesta Godano
Bormida Savona Castiglione Chiavarese
Sestri Levante
Calizzano Torre del Mare Moneglia Parma
Bardineto Spotorno Deiva Marina Borghetto
Monte Carmo MARE LIGURE Bonassola di Vara
1389m Finale Ligure
Monterosso al Mare
Erli GROTTE DI TOIRANO t e R i v i e r a d i L e v a n t e CINQUE TERRE La Spezia
Toirano n Corniglia Sarzana
Borghetto
Monesi Santo Spirito e Riomaggiore
Borghetto n LERICI
d’Arroscia ALBENGA o PORTOVENERE
Arroscia P Isola Palmaria Bocca di
Rezzo Pisa
Triora Magra
Testico Alassio
Chiusavecchia Laiguéglia d i
Monte Ceppo Getting Around
Pigna 1627m CERVO a If you keep to the coast, transport in
Baiardo Montalto Ligure r
Airole Diano Marina e Liguria is straightforward. The A10–E80
Ceriana i
DOLCEACQUA San Taggia Imperia i v motorway (becoming the A12–E80
at Genoa) and a mainline railway hug
Monaco Romolo BUSSANA VECCHIA R
SANREMO the shore from the French border to
Tuscany. The main stations along
BALZI Ventimiglia the route are at Ven ti miglia, Sanremo,
ROSSI VILLA HANBURY Imperia, Savona, Genoa and La Spezia.
There are good road and rail links
between Genoa and Milan and Turin.
Access to inland Liguria is harder
because of the mountains. Bus services
link many of the coastal towns with
the prettiest hill villages. You can
explore some of the countryside by car
by following the smaller routes, such as
the S28 from Imperia towards Garessio
in Piedmont, the S334 from Albisola or
the S456 from Voltri towards Milan.
Houses wedged into the cliffs in Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre
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238 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y

2 Villa Hanbury the village. The terraced
vineyards in the surrounding
Corso Monte Carlo 43, Località La
Mortola. Tel 0184 22 95 07. hills produce grapes for general
V Ven timiglia. @ from Ventimiglia. consumption, as well as for a
Open 9:30am–5pm (Mar–mid-Jun & robust red wine known as
mid-Sep–mid-Oct: to 5pm; mid-Jun– Rossese or vino di Dolceacqua.
mid-Sep: to 6pm; mid-Oct–Feb: to
4pm) daily. Closed Mon Nov–Feb. &
∑ giardinihanbury.com
In 1867, the English botanist
Sir Thomas Hanbury and his
brother bought this villa on
the Mortola promontory. They
took full advantage of the
exceptionally mild Ligurian
The spectacular gardens of the Villa climate to establish a garden of
Hanbury near Ventimiglia exotic plants along the sloping
pathways of the seaside villa. The Casinò Municipale in Sanremo,
The collection, gathered by completed in 1906
1 Balzi Rossi Hanbury on trips to Africa and
Asia, has grown to number 4 Sanremo
Imperia. V Ventimiglia & Menton.
@ from Ventimiglia to Ponte San more than 3,000 varieties of Imperia. * 57,000. V @ n Corso
Luigi & then a 10-minute walk. & tropical flora including rubber degli Inglesi 14 (0184 58 05 00). (
∑ archeoliguria.beniculturali.it trees, palms and wild cacti. Tue & Sat am. ∑ turismoinliguria.it
The garden is now run by the
An unassuming promontory is State and is one of the most Sanremo is a pleasant resort of
the setting for some of the most impressive botanical gardens in faded elegance. The composer
important caves in northern Italy, even during the winter. Tchaikovsky, Alfred Nobel (the
Italy. Guided tours lead through father of modern explosives)
the traces of the cave-dwelling and the nonsense poet Edward
civilization of pre-Iron Age 3 Dolceacqua Lear all stayed in the stuccoed
Liguria. The caves contain Imperia. * 2,000. V @ n Via mansions of the palm-lined
excavated burial sites where the Barberis Colomba 3 (0184 20 66 66). seafront avenue, the Corso
dead were adorned with sea- ( Thu. ∑ dolceacqua.it Imperatrice. The focus of the
shells. The Museo Nazionale town, then as now, is the Casino.
dei Balzi Rossi contains tools, This pretty village, 8 km (5 miles) A little further down the Corso
weapons and stone-etched north of Ventimiglia, is built stands the ornate Russian
female figures dating from on either side of the churning Orthodox church of San Borilio.
100,000 years ago. There is also River Nervia, its two halves The old town, La Pigna
a reproduction of an etching joined by an arching 33 m (fir cone), is a huddle of narrow
of a horse. (108 ft) medieval stone bridge. lanes with medieval houses
The highlight is the ruined 12th- and pastel-coloured shutters.
E Museo Nazionale to 15th-century castle, inhabited A coach service goes from
dei Balzi Rossi for a while in the 16th century Sanremo to San Romolo, a small
Via Balzi Rossi 9. Tel 0184 381 13. by the powerful Doria family village 786 m (2,579 ft) above
Open 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun. from Genoa. The two square sea level that offers beautiful
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & towers at the front dominate views of the area.
A delightful flower market is
held in Valle Armea (5–7am,
Oct–Jun, by appt, 0184 517 11),
while the Italian Song Festival
takes place here in February.

5 Bussana Vecchia
Imperia. Off Sanremo–Arma di
Taggia road.
Bussana Vecchia is a marvellously
atmospheric ghost town.
In February 1887 an earthquake
shook the village, reducing
The village of Dolceacqua with its medieval bridge and ruined castle its Baroque church and
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p565–9 and pp584–90


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LIGURIA І 239


surrounding houses to ruins.
(One survivor, Giovanni Torre del
Merlo, went on to invent the
ice­cream cone.)
The town was rebuilt closer
to the sea and since then
the original village has been
taken over by artists, who
have restored some interiors,
providing a venue for summer
concerts and exhibitions.

6 Cervo Spectacular rock formations in the grottoes of Toirano
Imperia. * 1,200. V @ n Piazza 7 Albenga R Baptistry
Santa Caterina 2 (0183 40 81 97). Piazza San Michele. Tel 0182 502 88.
( Thu. ∑ cervo.com Savona. * 24,000. V @ n Piazza Open 9:30am–12:30pm & 3:30–
del Popolo 11 (0182 55 84 44). ( 6:30pm (Oct–Apr: 3–6pm) Tue–Sat
Cervo is the prettiest of the Wed. ∑ turismoinliguria.it
many old seafront villages just (Oct–Apr: 5pm Tue), 10am–12:30pm &
3:30–6pm Sun (Oct–Apr: groups only
east of Imperia, with a narrow Until the Middle Ages, the Sun). Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 25 Dec. &
complex of streets and houses Roman port of Albium
rising dramatically up from the Ingaunum played an important E Museo Navale Romano
shingle beach. At the top of the maritime role. The sea, however, Pza San Michele 12. Tel 0182 512 15.
village stands the concave gradually moved further out, Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 3:30–7:30pm
Baroque façade of San leaving the town, now called (Oct–Apr: from 10am, 2:30–6pm) Tue–
Giovanni Battista. Albenga, stranded on Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 25 Dec. &
Charming chamber the Centa River.
orchestra perform­ Most striking now is
ances are held in its Romanesque 8 Grotte di Toirano
front of the church in brick architecture, in
July and August. The particular the three Via alle Grotte, Toirano. Tel 0182 980 62.
church is also known 13th­century towers @ from Albenga to Borghetto Santo
as the “dei corallini”, clustered around the Spirito. V to Borghetto Santo Spirito
after the coral fishing cathedral of San or Loano. Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 2–
which once brought Michele. The 5pm daily. Closed 25 Dec–1 Jan.
8 (book ahead). ∑ toiranogrotte.it
prosperity to the The 5th-century cathedral’s interior
local people. Baptistry at Albenga was restored to its Beneath the delightful medieval
Now Cervo is an medieval form in town of Toirano lies a series of
unassuming but characteristic the late 1960s. To the south caves containing relics of
Ligurian holiday resort, with is an intriguing 5th­century Paleolithic life dating from
un spoiled hotels near the beach. Baptistry with a ten­sided 100,000 years ago.
exterior and octagonal The Grotta della Basura
interior. Inside, the (Witch’s Cave) has remarkable
original 5th­century blue­ prehistoric human and animal
and­white mosaics of footprints, and a collection of
doves represent the 12 ancient bear bones and teeth
Apostles. To the north of in the “bear cemetery”.
the cathedral is the small The Grotta di Santa Lucia
Piazza dei Leoni, named reveals the full beauty of the
after its three stone lions yellow and grey stalactites and
imported from Rome. stalagmites formed here over
In a 14th­century palace hundreds of thousands of years.
on Piazza San Michele is The Museo Etnografico della
the Museo Navale Val Varatella, housed in the 16th­
Romano, founded in century stables of the Palazzo del
1950 following the Marchese, has a collection of agri­
salvage of a Roman ship cultural and domestic tools from
that had sunk in the 1st the 17th to the early 20th century.
century BC. The museum
contains ancient E Museo Etnografico della
amphorae as well as Val Varatella
exhibits salvaged from Via G Polla, Toirano. Tel 0182 98 99 68.
San Giovanni Battista at Cervo more recent shipwrecks. Open 10am–1pm, 3–8pm daily. &




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240  NOR THWEST IT AL Y

9 Street-by-Street: Genoa

There is something refreshingly rough-
edged about Genoa (Genova in Italian),
Italy’s most important commercial port.
In contrast to the genteel resorts along
the neighbouring coast, the narrow
streets of the old town are the haunts
of sailors and streetwalkers. Piazza San Matteo
With its natural harbour and Musei di The houses and church of San Matteo
the mountains to protect it, Strada Nuova were built by the Doria family in 1278.
Genoa rose to prominence Palazzo Quartara has a bas-relief of
as a sea-based power. During St George above the doorway.
the 16th century Andrea Doria
cemented Genoa’s importance,
and also proved an astute C A M P E T T O
P I A Z Z A
patron of the arts. PIAZZA SAN MAT TEO
S C U R R E R I A SALITA SAN MATTEO




I
D P I A Z Z A

A VIA ARCHIVESCOVATO
I
The port and V
Palazzo Reale V I A S A N L O R E N Z O
P I A Z Z A
San Lorenzo M A T T E O T T I
S A L I TA P O L L A I U O L I E R B E
The black-and-white-striped
Gothic façade of the Duomo
dates from the early 12th century. V I A P O R TA S O P R A N A
P I A Z Z A
Palazzo Ducale S A L I T A D E L P R I O N E
Once the seat of the
doges of Genoa, this
elegant building, with its
two fine 16th-century
courtyards and arcades,
now contains a major arts
and cultural centre.
San Donato has a
splendid 12th-century
octagonal bell tower. VICO DEI TRE RE MAGI

Sant’Agostino
The 13th-century
church and convent
were bombed during Key
World War II, but the bell Suggested route
tower remains. The cloisters
now house sculpture like
this fragment from the tomb
of Margaret of Brabant 0 metres 100
by Pisano (1312). 0 yards 100
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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GENO A  241


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST R San Lorenzo (Duomo)
Piazza San Lorenzo. Tel 010 247 18 31.
Practical Information Open daily. Museo del Tesoro:
* 610,000. n Aeroporto Tel 010 254 12 50. Open 9am–noon,
Cristoforo Colombo (010 557 3–6pm Mon–Sat. &
29 03); Stazione Principe (010 The Duomo, with its black-and-
27 41 11). ( Mon, Wed & Thu. white-striped exterior, blends
_ 24 Jun: San Giovanni Battista; many architectural styles, from
Jul: Ballet Festival; Oct: Fiera the 12th-century Romanesque
Nautica. ∑ visitgenoa.it
side portal of San Giovanni to
Church of Gesù Transport the Baroque touches of some
This Baroque church, built k Cristoforo Colombo 6 km of its side chapels. The three
between 1589 and 1606, is also (4 miles) W. V Stazione Principe, portals at the west end are in
known as the church of Santi Piazza Acquaverde. g Stazione French Gothic style.
Ambrogio e Andrea. Marittima, Ponte dei Mille. The most sumptuous of
the chapels is dedicated to
St John the Baptist, patron
Piazza de Ferrari is the site
V I A X X V A P R I L E Roma and the Accademia, as a 13th-century sarcophagus
saint of the city; it includes
of the Neo-Classical Banco di
that once held the venerated
well as the restored Teatro
saint’s relics.
Carlo Felice.
Steps lead down from the
sacristy to the Museo del
The bronze fountain in
SALITA SAN MATTEO
It houses such treasures as
constructed in 1936.
P I A Z Z A R I V I A X X S E T T E M B R E Piazza de Ferrari was Tesoro di San Lorenzo.
the Roman green glass dish
said to have been used at
R A the Last Supper, and
R a blue chalcedony plate on
D E F E which the head of John
the Baptist was allegedly
served up to Salome.
V I A D A N T E
P The Port
Aquarium Ponte Spinola.
Tel 010 234 56 78.
Open 9:30am–7:30pm daily
(to 8:30pm Sat, Sun & hols); Jul &
V I A P O R TA S O P R A N A
Aug: 8:30am–10pm daily. Last adm:
90 mins before closing.
& 9 0 =
E R B E
P I A Z Z A
∑ acquariodigenova.it
S A L I T A D E L P R I O N E
The port is the heart of Genoa
and the origin of its power
as a seafaring city state in the
11th and 12th centuries.
Porta Soprana ringed by busy roads and
A workaday place, it is
The eastern gateway to the
V I A R A V E C C A city has curved outer walls 1960s buildings.
and stands close to the site of
Among the vestiges of its
Christopher Columbus’s house.
medieval glory is the Lanterna
lighthouse (restored in 1543)
near the Stazione Marittima.
In the old days fires would be
lit at the top of the Lanterna
to guide ships into port. Today,
regeneration of the port is in
Sant’Andrea part due to the Renzo Piano-
The 12th-century designed conference
cloisters standing in centre (see p189) and the
a small garden are Aquarium, one of the largest
all that remain of in Europe and an ideal place
the convent that to sample the richness of
once stood here. marine life.
240-241_EW_Italy.indd 241 4/4/17 5:34 PM

242 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y

Exploring Genoa P Palazzo Reale
Via Balbi 10. Tel 010 271 02 36. Open
Visitors are well rewarded when they explore Genoa – a city 9am–7pm Tue–Sat, 1:30–7pm Sun
proud of its history and legends. The palazzi of Via Balbi and (last adm: 30 mins before closing).
Via Garibaldi, and the paintings and sculptures dotted around Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 7
∑ palazzorealegenova.beni
the city in churches and museums, are among the finest in culturali.it
northwestern Italy. The environs, too, provide scenic and This austere-looking residence,
relaxing locations for excursions along the coast or in the used by the Kings of Savoy from
steep hills behind. the 17th century onwards, has a
highly ornate Rococo interior –
What remained notably its ballroom and its Hall
were two ruined of Mirrors. Among the paintings
cloisters – one of is a Crucifixion by Van Dyck.
which forms the The garden, which slopes down
only triangular towards the old port, includes an
building in Genoa. intriguing cobblestone mosaic
The cloisters have around the central fountain,
been converted depicting houses and animals.
into the Museo di Opposite the palace is the old
Architettura e University (1634) designed by
Scultura Ligure. Bartolomeo Bianco, as was
The museum much of Via Balbi. The large
contains the city’s building brilliantly overcomes
The courtyard of the University on Via Balbi collection of archi- Genoa’s hilly topography, and is
tectural pieces, constructed on four levels.
R Sant’Agostino some dating back to the Roman
Piazza Sarzano 35. Tel 010 251 12 63. era, along with fragments of P Palazzo Bianco
Museo di Archi tettura e Scultura Ligure: sculpture and frescoes – all Via Garibaldi 11. Tel 010 557 21 93.
Tel 010 251 12 63. Open 9am–7pm salvaged from Genoa’s other Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sat (to 6pm Tue,
Tue–Sat (6pm Tue), 9am–7:30pm Sun destroyed churches. The finest 9pm Fri), 9:30am–7:30pm Sun (Nov–
(Nov–Mar: 8:30am–6pm Tue–Fri, piece is a magnificent fragment Mar: 8:30am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9:30am–
9:30am–6:30pm Sat & Sun). from the tomb of Margaret of 6:30pm Sat & Sun). & Palazzo Rosso:
Closed public hols. & 7 Tel 010 275 91 85. Open as for Palazzo
Brabant, who died in 1311.
This Gothic church was begun She was the wife of Emperor Bianco. & Palazzo Tursi: Tel 010 557 21
in 1260, but it was bombed to Henry VII, who invaded Italy in 93. Open as for Palazzo Bianco. & 7
pieces in World War II. It is now 1310. Carved by Giovanni Pisano The Palazzo Bianco is situated
deconsecrated and all that around 1313, the sculptures on Genoa’s most beautiful street,
remains of the original building from her tomb were restored Via Garibaldi, where there are
is the fine Gothic bell tower, and repositioned in 1987. numerous fine 16th-century
decorated with coloured tiles. The figures, whose garments mansions and palazzi. It houses
The monastery, of which the are arranged in simple folds, the city’s prime collection of
church of Sant’Agostino was seem to be helping Margaret paintings, including works by
once a part, was also bombed. to lie down to rest. many Genoese artists such as
Christopher Columbus in Genoa
The name of Cristoforo Colombo, or Christopher Columbus, as English
speakers know him, is in evidence all over Genoa. A statue of the explorer
of the New World greets you as soon as you
emerge in Piazza Acquaverde from Porta
Principe railway station; various public
buildings bear his name; even the airport is
named after him. In the 17th-century Palazzo
Belimbau, built on top of the old city walls, is a
series of frescoes by the local artist Tavarone
A portrait of Columbus, Villa celebrating the explorer’s life, and you can see
Doria at Pegli three of his letters in the Sala del Sindaco in
Palazzo Tursi (the city hall) on Via Garibaldi. It is
not certain whether Columbus (c.1451–1506) was born in Genoa, in Savona,
15 km (9 miles) to the west, or even outside Italy. However, city registers mention
his father, a weaver, and various family homes within the city. The small ivy-clad
house adjacent to Porta Soprana may have been Columbus’s childhood home, The house where Columbus
where he first discovered his passion for the sea. may have lived

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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GENO A І 243


Moderna featuring modern
Italian painting. The Villa Luxoro
on Via Aurelia is notable for its
collection of clocks, fabrics,
furniture and lace. The area is also
famous as Garibaldi’s departure
point when he set off for Sicily
with his Mille (the famous
“Thousand” men) to help bring
about the unification of Italy. A
large monument at Quarto dei
Mille, about 3 km (2 miles) back
towards the city, marks the place
where the volunteers met in May
1860 to follow the intrepid
revolutionary (see p66–7). Villa
The romantic gardens at Villa Durazzo-Pallavicini in Pegli Grimaldi houses the Frugone
brothers’ art and sculpture
Luca Cambiaso, Bernardo Strozzi Environs collection, showing late 18th-
and Domenico Piola. Better- Until World War II, Pegli, 6 km and early 19th-century works
known artists include Filippino (4 miles) west of the city centre, by Fattori, Boldi and Messina.
Lippi, Van Dyck, Veronese and was a popular weekend retreat
Rubens. At No. 9 Via Garibaldi, for rich Genoese. Now it forms E Villa Durazzo-Pallavicini
Palazzo Tursi hosts the Lord part of the city, but maintains Via Pallavicini 11, Pegli. Tel 010 698 10
Mayor’s boardrooms, as well as an air of tranquillity thanks to 48. Open 9am–7pm Tue–Fri (from
an extension of the Palazzo its parks and two villas, the 10am Sat–Sun). Closed pub hols.
Bianco Gallery. Across the street 19th-century Villa Durazzo- & 7
in the Palazzo Rosso are more Palla vicini and the 16th-century E Villa Doria, Museo Navale
paintings, including works by Villa Doria, Museo Navale. Piazza Bonavino 7, Pegli. Tel 010 696
Dürer and Caravaggio, as well The latter is a naval history 98 85. Open 9am–1:30pm Tue–Sun
as ceramics and furniture. museum cele brating Genoa’s (6pm Sat, 1pm Sun). Closed public
glorious past: you can see hols. & 7
compasses, astro labes, globes, E Galleria d’Arte Moderna
model ships and a portrait of Villa Serra, Via Capolungo 3, Nervi.
Columbus, ascribed to Tel 010 372 60 25. Open Tue–Sun. &
Ghirlandaio, probably dating
from 1525. An archaeological E Villa Luxoro
museum in the Villa Durazzo- Via Mafalda di Savoia 3, Nervi. Tel 010
32 26 73. Open Tue–Sat. Closed
Pallavicini relates the pre-Roman public hols. &
history of the Ligurian coast.
The villa’s garden is landscaped E Villa Grimaldi
with romantic grottoes, Via Capolungo 9, Nervi. Tel 010 32 23
pavilions and fountains. 96. Open Tue–Sun.
Nervi, 8 km (5 miles)
Fine tomb architecture from the huge to the east of the city, is
Staglieno Cemetery another former resort
town, fam ous for its
Z Staglieno Cemetery seafront promenade,
Piazzale Resasco, Staglieno. Tel 010 87 the Passeggiata Anita
01 84. Open 7:30am–5pm daily. Garibaldi (named after
Closed pub hols. 7 Garibaldi’s wife). The walk
This grandiose cemetery, just follows a route that has
over the hills northeast of Genoa been cut into the rock
along the Bisagno River, is so big face, giving panoramic
(33 ha, 81.5 acres) that it has views of the coast. The
its own internal bus system. lush Parco Muni cipale
Founded in 1844, its tombs and is another feature of
monuments make up an eerie Nervi. It once formed
city of miniature cathedrals, the grounds of two
Egyptian temples and Art aristocratic villas – Villa
Nouveau palaces. Its most Serra and Villa Gropallo.
famous resident is Giuseppe The former, on Via
Mazzini, the Genoese revolu tion- Capolungo, now houses Pini (c.1920) by Rubaldo Merello in the Galleria d’Arte
ary who died near Pisa in 1872. the Galleria d’Arte Moderna at Nervi




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244 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y


Punta Chiappa, a rocky
promontory famous for the
changing colours of the
surrounding sea.
R Abbazia di San Fruttuoso
San Fruttuoso. Tel 0185 77 27 03.
Open Mar–Oct: daily; Nov–Feb:
Tue–Sun. Closed Feb. &

w Rapallo
Genoa. * 31,000. V @ g n
Lungomare Vittorio Veneto 7 (0185
23 03 46). ( Thu. Cable car: Tel 0185
523 41. ∑ turismoinliguria.it
Historians know Rapallo as the
place where two post-World
War I treaties were signed,
while film buffs might
Pastel-coloured houses near the pebbly beach at Camogli recognize it from the 1954
movie The Barefoot Contessa,
0 Camogli On the other side of the which was shot here. Rapallo
peninsula, which you have to was also a haven for writers
Genoa. * 5,500. V @ g n Via
XX Settembre 33 (0185 77 10 66). reach on foot (a 2-hour walk) or such as D H Lawrence and Ezra
( Wed. ∑ camogliturismo.it by boat, is the Abbazia di San Pound. Its villas still have a
Fruttuoso, named after a patrician feel to them, as do the
Built on a pine-wooded slope, 3rd-century saint riding stables,
Camogli is a fishing village where whose followers golf course and
seashells adorn the pastel- were ship- tennis courts.
painted house walls, and the wrecked here The palm-lined
smell of frying fish wafts out from and, according esplanade ends
the small restaurants into the to legend, in a small
streets. Near the pebble beach protected by 16th-century
and fishing port is the medieval three lions. castle, in which
Castello della Dragonara. The white art exhibitions
Camogli celebrates its famous abbey buildings, are occasionally
festival of the Blessing of the set among pines held. A cable
Fish on the second Sunday of and olive trees, The 16th-century castle jutting car from the
May, when sardines are fried date mostly from into Rapallo harbour centre of the
in a huge pan 4 m (13 ft) in the 11th century, town leads to
diameter. The fish is distributed although the imposing Torre dei the 16th-century Santuario di
free to everyone. Doria was added 500 years later. Montallegro, which houses a
You can take a boat to try to Byzantine icon said to possess
q Portofino locate the Cristo degli Abissi, miraculous powers.
a bronze statue of Christ that
Peninsula sits on the sea bed near San R Santuario di Montallegro
Fruttuoso, protecting sailors. Montallegro. Tel 0185 23 90 00.
Genoa. @ g Portofino. n Via Roma
35 (0185 26 90 24). Further west along the coast is Open daily. Closed noon–2:30pm.
∑ parcoportofino.com
Portofino is the most exclusive
harbour and resort town in Italy,
crammed with the yachts of the
wealthy. You can reach
Portofino by road (although cars
are not allowed into the village),
or by boat, from the resort of
Santa Margherita Ligure. Above
the town are the church of San
Giorgio, containing relics said to
be those of the dragon-slayer,
and a castle. Large yachts moored in Portofino’s famous harbour
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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LIGURIA І 245


and-white, 13th-century church
of San Pietro. From here, or
from the 16th-century castle
on top of the cliffs on the
northwestern side of the village,
there are superb views of the
Cinque Terre and the small
island of Palmaria, about 400 m
(435 yards) offshore.

t Lerici
La Spezia. * 10,500. @ g
n Via Biagini 6, Località Venere
The dramatic coastline near Corniglia in the Cinque Terre Azzurra (0187 96 73 46). ( Sat am.
e Cinque Terre or Lovers’ Lane, to Riomaggiore, ∑ parconazionale5terre.it
a 15-minute walk away. This stretch of coast, along
La Spezia. V to all towns.
g Monterosso, Vernazza. The best way to visit the the Gulf of La Spezia or Poets’
n Via Fegina 40, Monterosso villages is by boat (from La Spezia, Gulf, was once popular with
(0187 81 70 59) (summer only); Lerici or Porto Venere) or by train such literati as Yeats and D H
Piazza Rio Finale 26, Riomaggiore (La Spezia–Genoa railway line). Lawrence. The village of San
(0187 92 06 33). Terenzo, across the bay from
∑ parconazionale5terre.it Lerici, was where the poet
r Portovenere Shelley spent the last four years
The Cinque Terre are five self- La Spezia. * 3,900. @ g n Piazza of his life. It was from his home,
contained villages – Monterosso Bastreri 7 (0187 79 06 91). ( Mon. the Casa Magni, that he set out
al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, ∑ prolocoportovenere.it in 1822 on a voyage to meet
Manarola and Riomaggiore – Leigh Hunt in Livorno. Tragically,
located on the rocky coastline Named after the goddess Venus, he was shipwrecked near
of the Riviera di Levante. Portovenere is one of the most Viareggio and drowned.
Clinging dramatically to the romantic villages on the Ligurian The popular resort of Lerici
steep cliffs, these villages coast, with its cluster of narrow sits on the edge of a beautiful
are linked only by an streets lined with pastel- bay overlooked by pastel-
ancient footpath coloured houses. In coloured houses. The forbidding
known as the the upper part of medieval Castello di Lerici
Sentiero the village is the (13th century), built by the
Azzurro (Blue 12th-century Pisans and later passed to the
Path), which church of San Genoese, dominates the
offers spec- Lorenzo. holiday villas below. Today
tacular views A sculpture it houses a museum of
of the rocky Above the doorway of San Lorenzo in over the geopaleontology and hosts
coastline Portovenere doorway here art exhibitions and concerts.
and terraced depicts the
vineyards that produce martyrdom of the saint who was + Castello di Lerici
the local dry white Cinque roasted alive on a grill. On the Piazza San Giorgio. Tel 0187 96 90 42.
Terre wines. The footpath stone promontory that curls out Open Tue–Sun. Closed 9–26 Dec. &
also provides access to into the sea is the small, black- ∑ castellodilerici.it
secluded beaches.
These days the five villages
suffer from some depopulation.
The largest, Monterosso al
Mare, on the northwestern
edge of the Cinque Terre,
overlooks a wide bay with its
own sandy beach. Vernazza,
further down the coast, has
streets linked by steep steps or
arpaie. Corniglia, perched at
the pinnacle of rocky terraces,
seems untouched by the
passage of time, as does
Manarola, which is linked by
the famous Via dell’Amore, The harbour of Vernazza in the Cinque Terre
Brightly painted buildings in Manarola, one of the villages that make up the Cinque Terre



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