(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

THE HIST OR Y OF IT AL Y  49

A Boxing Match
Athletic competitions were Where to See
held at funerals. This vase, Etruscan Italy
which dates from about
500 BC, was made in Etruria,
but imitates the Greek
black-figure style of pottery.


Italy in 650 BC
Etruscan kingdoms
Greek colonies The musicians and the
dancer in the tomb painting
are painted with a realism
that indicates the influence
of Greek art.
Rock tombs like these at Sovana
The lyre was (p350) are common in the volcanic
made from a tufa of central Italy.
tortoiseshell Tuscany, Lazio and Umbria
and played with are rich in Etruscan remains,
a plectrum. especially tombs. There are huge
necropolises in Lazio at Cerveteri
and Tarquinia (p470). The latter
also has an important museum.
Other museums with major
collections of Etruscan art and
artifacts include Villa Giulia (p444)
and the Vatican’s Museo Gregoriano
Profano (p426) in Rome, the
Museo Archeolo gico in Florence
(p281), the Museo Nazionale in
Chiusi (p336) and the Museo
Guarnacci in Volterra (pp338–9).
Apollo of Veii
This magnificent
statue of Apollo (c.500 BC)
shows the stylized facial
features characteristic
of Etruscan art.


Bronze Mirror
Wealthy Etruscans lived
in great luxury. The women
used polished bronze mirrors Temple of Neptune
with engraved backs. This one This fine temple at Paestum
shows Helen of Troy and the (5th century BC) is a legacy of
goddess Aphrodite. Greek colonization of the south.

Mixing bowl, imported
509 BC Last Etruscan king, 390 BC Gauls
Tarquinius Superbus, expelled from Greece sack Rome; Capitol
from Rome; establishment 450 BC Roman saved thanks to
of Roman Republic law codified in alarm sounded
the Twelve Tables by cackling geese
600 BC 500 BC 400 BC
499 BC Battle of Lake Regillus; 474 BC Etruscan 396 BC Veii, a
Romans defeat alliance of fleet defeated by major Etruscan
Latins and Etruscans Greeks off Cumae; c.400 BC Gauls city in present- Relief of Capitoline
blow to Etruscan start to settle along day Lazio, falls geese, found in the
naval power valley of the Po to Rome Roman Forum





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50  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

From Republic to Empire

From the scores of tribes inhabiting
ancient Italy, one group of people, Aquileia •
the Romans, emerged to conquer the Via Postumia
peninsula and impose their language, • VERONA
customs and laws on the rest. Rome’s Padus
•
success was due to superb skill in PLACENTIA
military and civil organization. GENUA Piacenza Via Aemilia BONONIA
Bologna
The State was a republic ruled by Genoa • •
two consuls, elected each year, but
as the extent of Rome’s conquests FLORENTIA •
grew, power passed to generals such Cisalpine Gaul • Florence • ARIMINUM • FANUM
was annexed in
as Julius Caesar. The Republic became 202–191 BC. PISAE An u s Via Cassia Rimini FORTUNAE
unworkable and Caesar’s heirs became Pisa • ARRETIUM Fano
Arezzo
the first Roman emperors. Tiberis
Julius Caesar POPULONIA
The great general, conqueror of CLUSIUM •
Chiusi
Gaul, returned to Italy in 49 BC Etruria was Via Flaminia
to defeat Pompey. His rise in Roman
• Via Aurelia
to absolute power marked hands by ALBA FUCENS • CORFINIUM
the end of the Republic. 265 BC. •
• TIBUR Via Valeria
ROMA •
Tivoli
•
CAPUA
Oscan Inscription War Elephant
The languages of the In 218 BC the great
peoples conquered Carthaginian general
by Rome lived on for Hannibal brought 37
centuries before being elephants across the
replaced by Latin. Alps – to spread alarm
The Oscans lived in in the Roman ranks.
what is now Campania.
Roman Aqueduct High
The Romans’ talent for ground
engineering found its most
spectacular expression in Cleaning vent
huge aqueducts. These
could be up to 80 km
(50 miles) long, though for PANORMUS •
most of that distance the Underground water Arches carrying water Palermo
water ran underground.
Reservoir channel across low ground

312 BC Building of 275 BC Greek King
Via Appia and Aqua Pyrrhus defeated by 218 BC Second Punic War;
Appia aqueduct Romans at Beneventum Hannibal crosses the Alps
308 BC Etruscan city of 264–241 BC First Punic War 216 BC Roman defeat
Tarquinii falls to Rome (between Rome and Carthage) at Battle of Cannae
300 BC 250 BC 200 BC
265 BC Romans 237 BC Romans occupy 191 BC
capture last Corsica and Sardinia Gaulish
Via Appia 287–212 BC Life of Etruscan city territory south
Archimedes, the great Greek Hannibal, Carthaginian of the Alps falls
mathematician of Syracuse leader in the Second Punic War to Rome





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THE HIST OR Y OF IT AL Y  51


Where to See Republican
Era Italy
Republican structures are very rare, most
having been rebuilt under the Empire.
In Rome itself, two notable exceptions are
the 2nd-century BC Temples of the Forum
Boarium (p437). However, the legacy of the
age to modern Italy is not hard to appreciate.
Countless roads, such as the Via Appia Antica
(p445), and towns were planned originally by
Roman engineers. Two striking examples of
Cicero Addresses the Senate towns with original Roman street plans are
State business was debated in Lucca (pp324–5) and Como (pp194–5).
the Senate. The great orator Cicero
• FANUM (106–43 BC) argued for the Republic
FORTUNAE and against tyranny.
Fano
Roman Legionary
This bronze shows a legionary in
standard kit of helmet,
breastplate, leather kilt with iron
plates, greaves on his shins,
and sandals.
CORFINIUM
• The Via
Via Valeria
• TIBUR Appia was These huge basalt blocks at Tharros in Sardinia (p554)
Tivoli extended were part of a Roman road.
from Capua to
Brindisi in 190 BC.
• Roman Roads
CAPUA Via Appia BRUNDISIUM After conquering other tribes, the Romans
Brindisi
TARENTUM • imposed their authority by building roads along
Taranto • which legions could march rapidly to deal with
any trouble. They also built towns. Many, such as
Ariminum (Rimini), were “colonies”, settlements
for Roman citizens – often veteran legionaries.


Sicily became
the first Roman
province in Aerial View
241 BC. of Bologna
Roman street plans
are still visible in
city centres today.
RHEGIUM
• Reggio di Calabria The route of the
old Via Aemilia cuts
straight through the
centre of Bologna.
104 BC Slave 89 BC Social War: Rome’s Italian 31 BC Octavian defeats Mark
revolt in Sicily allies granted citizenship Antony at Battle of Actium
146 BC End of Third Punic 80 BC Building starts on the first 30 BC Suicide of Mark Antony
War; Carthage destroyed Roman amphitheatre, at Pompeii and Cleopatra in Egypt
200 BC 150 BC 100 BC 50 BC
168 BC End of Third 73–71 BC Slave revolt 44 BC Murder of Julius Caesar;
Macedonian War; Romans led by Spartacus end of Roman Republic
now masters of Greece
49 BC Caesar crosses the Rubicon 45 BC Introduction of
Milestone from the Via Aemilia and drives Pompey from Rome 12-month Julian calendar





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52  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

The Golden Age of Rome

From the age of Augustus to the reign of Trajan, Rome’s power
grew until her empire stretched from Britain to the Red Sea.
Despite the extravagance of emperors such as Nero, taxes
and booty from military campaigns continually refilled the
Imperial coffers. Under the wiser rule of Trajan, Hadrian and
Marcus Aurelius in the 2nd century AD, Roman citizens enjoyed Roman Empire in AD 117
wealth and comfort, with most of the work performed by slaves. Maximum extent of
Entertainment included visits to the baths, the theatre and the the Empire
games. The town of Pompeii, buried when Vesuvius erupted in
AD 79, preserves many fascinating details of everyday life.

Mosaic of Gladiators Frescoes of
Bloodthirsty gladiatorial festoons and
combats were very popular. medallions
The gladiators were mostly
slaves captured in war.











Trajan’s Column
The carvings record The triclinium
Trajan’s successful (main dining room)
campaigns in Dacia had a beautiful frieze
(present-day Romania) of cupids.
in the first decade of
the 2nd century AD.


House of the Vettii
This reconstruction shows one of
Roman Shops Pompeii’s finest houses (see pp498–9).
Buildings in towns were The Vettii were not aristocrats, but
lined with small shops freedmen, former slaves, who had
open to the street,
like this pharmacy. made a fortune through trade.
The front was closed The rooms were richly decorated
with wooden panels with frescoes and sculptures.
and locked at night.

9 BC Dedication of Ara Bronze cooking AD 79 Eruption
Pacis (see p414) in Rome AD 17 Tiberius pots from of Vesuvius
to celebrate peace after fixes boundary of kitchen at destroys
wars in Gaul and Spain Empire along the Pompeii Pompeii and
Rhine and Danube Herculaneum
50 BC AD 1 AD 50
27 BC Augustus takes AD 37–41 Reign of Caligula AD 67 Traditional date for AD 80 Late 1st century AD
title Princeps, in effect martyrdom of St Peter Inaugural Amphitheatre of Verona built
becoming the first AD 43 Roman conquest of and St Paul in Rome games in
Roman emperor Britain in reign of Claudius Colosseum
AD 68 Deposition and suicide of Nero





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THE HIST OR Y OF IT AL Y  53


Where to See Imperial Rome
Augustus The best places to discover how people lived are Pompeii
The adopted (pp498–9) and Herculaneum. Artifacts and works of art from
son of Julius Caesar these sites are held at the Museo Archeologico in Naples
became the first (pp494–5), while local
emperor, reducing museums all over Italy
the Roman Senate contain statues and
to impotence and other remains. Famous
ruling by decree. sights in Rome include
the Pantheon (p408)
The atrium had and the Colosseum
a skylight in the (p397). Hadrian’s Villa, at
roof with a pool Tivoli (p472), and Ostia
that collected (p471) are also fasci­
rainwater below. nating to visit, but the
whole country preserves
traces of Rome’s glory –
Front from the Arch of
entrance Augustus in Aosta (p219) The Forum (pp394–5), with its temples
to Villa Romana del and law courts, was the centre of daily
Casale (p541) in Sicily. life in ancient Rome.














Reception room Mosaic of a Banquet
The Romans ate reclining
on low couches. A popular
accompaniment for many
dishes was garum, a salty
sauce made of dried fish.

Peristyle or Household Shrine
colonnade Religious rites were practised
both in public and in private.
The internal This shrine from the House of
garden was a the Vettii was dedicated to the
feature borrowed lares, the household gods.
by the Romans
from the Greeks.

AD 97 Roman AD 193–211
Empire reaches AD 161–180 Reign Reign of
largest extent in of Marcus Aurelius Septimius AD 212 Roman citizenship
reign of Trajan Severus extended to include people
from all parts of the Empire
AD 100 AD 150 AD 200
Late 1st century AD AD 134 Hadrian’s Villa
Amphitheatre of Verona built at Tivoli completed AD 216 Baths of Caracalla
completed in Rome
AD 125 Pantheon Emperor Septimius
rebuilt by Hadrian Severus





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54  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

The Splitting of the Empire

A decisive turning point in the history of the Roman
Empire came with Emperor Constantine’s conversion
to Christianity in AD 312 and his decision to build a new
capital at Constantinople (Byzantium). By the 5th century
the Empire was split into two. Rome and the Western
Empire could not stem the tide of Germanic invaders
migrating southwards and Italy fell first to the Goths Italy in AD 600
and later to the Lombards. The Eastern Empire retained Byzantine territories
nominal control over parts of Italy from its stronghold Lombard territories
at Ravenna, which became the richest, most powerful
city of the age, while the great palaces and arenas
of Rome were reduced to ruins.















The Donation of Constantine
A medieval legend, encouraged by the
papacy, tells how Constantine granted
Pope Sylvester temporal power over Rome.


Belisarius
(500–565) was
a general who
won much of
Italy back from
the Goths.


Theodolinda of the Lombards Justinian reigned from
The 6th-century queen converted her 527 to 565. He was a
people to orthodox Catholicism. Here, great lawgiver and one
gold is melted for the church she built of the most powerful
at Monza (see p205). Byzantine emperors.

404 Ravenna becomes seat 547 Church
303–5 Persecution of of the Western Empirer Gold coin of
Christians throughout Theodoric of San Vitale c.595 Lombards
the Empire in the reign 312 Constantine defeats in Ravenna control two-
of Diocletian rival Maxentius at Battle 488 Italy invaded by the thirds of Italy
of the Milvian Bridge Theodoric the Ostrogoth
200 300 400 500
270 Aurelian Wall built 313 Edict of 324 Christianity 476 End of the 535 Belisarius 564 Lombards
to protect Rome from Milan grants becomes state religion Western Empire lands in Sicily; invade Italy,
Germanic invaders freedom of reconquest of establishing
worship to c.320 Building of first 410 Sack of Rome most of Italy by their capital
Christians St Peter’s in Rome by Alaric the Visigoth Byzantine Empire at Pavia





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THE HIST OR Y OF IT AL Y  55




Charlemagne
The King of the
Franks was
invited by the
pope to crush
the Lombards.
In return, he was Saracens Besieging Messina
crowned Holy In the 9th century Sicily was conquered by
Roman Emperor Muslims from Africa. Saracen raiders even
in AD 800. reached Rome, where Pope Leo IV built
a new wall to defend the Vatican.
The emperor holds a large Maximian, Archbishop
gold paten, the dish in which of Ravenna
the bread is placed for Mass.
Where to See Early Christian
and Byzantine Italy
Though the fall of the Roman Empire led to war,
famine and depopulation, the continuity of the
Christian religion has preserved many monuments
of the late Empire and Byzantine period. Rome has
the catacombs (p446) and great basilicas, such
as Santa Maria Maggiore (p417). In Ravenna, the
administrative capital
of the Byzantine
Empire, are the
churches of San Vitale
and Sant’Apollinare
(pp272–3) with their
magnificent mosaics.
Sicily and the south
also preserve
many Byzantine
churches, while
Stilo in Calabria has the finest example
a beautiful Byzantine of late Byzantine
church, the Cattolica architecture is San
(p524), dating from Marco in Venice
the 10th century. (pp114–15).





The Court of Justinian Priests
Byzantine churches were decorated with Santa Costanza in Rome (p445) was built
glorious mosaics of coloured glass and gold in the 4th century as the mausoleum of
leaf. This one, from the apse of the church of Constantine’s daughter. Late Roman mosaics
San Vitale in Ravenna (see p272), completed decorate the vaults.
in 547, depicts members of the Imperial court.

774 Charlemagne conquers
752 Lombard
c.595 Lombards King Aistulf Italy and takes Lombard crown 878 Saracens capture
control two- takes Byzantine 800 Charlemagne city of Syracuse from
thirds of Italy stronghold of crowned Holy Roman Byzantine Empire and
Ravenna Emperor in St Peter’s gain control of Sicily
500 600 700 800 900
Gregory the Great 754 Pope appeals
(reigned 590–604) to Franks for help; 6th-century Lombard gold
599 Pope Gregory negotiates King Pepin helmet in the Bargello
peace between the Lombards invades Italy and museum, Florence (see p287)
and the Byzantine Empire defeats Lombards





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56  I n T roduCI n G IT a L y

The Rise of Venice

Medieval Italy saw waves of foreign invaders joining in
the struggle for power between popes and emperors. In the
confusion, many northern cities asserted their independence
from feudal overlords. The most powerful was Venice,
governed by its doge and Great Council, which grew rich
through trade with the East and by shipping Crusaders to
fight the Saracens in the Holy Land. Its maritime rivals on The Mediterranean (1250)
the west coast were Genoa and Pisa. Genoese trade routes
Venetian trade routes
Matilda of Tuscany
Matilda, Countess of Tuscany
(1046–1115) supported the
radical Pope Gregory VII Basilica San
against the Emperor Marco Doge’s Palace
Henry IV. When she died,
she left her lands to
the Church.


Sails – for
added speed
Canopy over the
half-deck

The oars, pulled
by slaves, were
the principal
means of
propulsion.


Venetian Galley The columns of
The galleys used by Venice, both San Marco and
as warships and for carrying cargo, San Teodoro had
were similar to ancient Greek vessels. been erected in
the 12th century.
Marco Polo’s Departure for China
Venice traded in Chinese silks and spices imported via
the Middle East, but no Venetian had been to China
before Marco Polo’s father Niccolò. Marco Polo set off
with his father in 1271, returning 25 years later with
fantastic tales of his time at the court of Kublai Khan.

1000 Doge of Venice, Pietro Orseolo II, Medieval students
defeats Dalmatian pirates in Adriatic
11th century School of Law at 1139 Naples
Bologna develops into Europe’s incorporated into
first university Kingdom of Sicily
1000 1050 1100
1061 Normans Robert 1084 Normans sack Rome 1130 Roger II
1030 Norman knight Guiscard and Roger de 1076 Salerno, last Lombard crowned
Rainulf granted county of Hauteville capture Messina city, falls to Normans king of Sicily
Aversa by Duke of Naples from the Arabs 1073–85 Pope Gregory VII 1115 Death of
1063 San Marco in Venice rebuilt reforms Church and papacy Countess Matilda





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the hist or y of it al y  57

St Francis of
Assisi (1181–1226) Where to See Early
In The Dream of Pope Medieval Italy
Innocent III by Giotto,
painted around 1290– Of the many
95, St Francis holds up churches built
the tottering edifice in this period,
of the Roman church. especially fine
The Franciscans’ rule of examples are
poverty brought about Venice’s San
a religious revival in Marco (p114),
reaction to the wealth Sant’Antonio
of the church. (p162) in Castello dell’
Padua and Imperatore, Prato,
the Duomo was built about 1240.
in Pisa (p328).
The Leaning Tower (p330) also dates back to
the 12th century. Medieval castles include
Monastery of Today’s Riva degli Frederick II’s Castel del Monte in Puglia
Sant’Apollonia Schiavoni (p513) and Castello dell’Imperatore in Prato.

Niccolò Polo, his brother Maffeo
and son Marco prepare to embark.
They sailed first to Acre in the Levant.

Fourth Crusade
Discord between
the leaders of
the crusade and
Pope Innocent III
culminated in
the sacking of
Constantinople
in 1204.









Frederick II
(1194–1250) The emperor
kept a court of poets and
scholars in Sicily. He won
Jerusalem from the Arabs by
diplomacy, but was constantly
at war with the pope and
the cities of Lombardy.

1198 Frederick II 1204 Sacking of Constantinople 1250 Death of Frederick II
becomes king of Sicily
1209 Franciscan Order founded 1260 Urban IV invites Charles of
1155 Frederick Barbarossa 1216 Dominican Anjou to rule Naples and Sicily
crowned Holy Roman Emperor Order founded 1265 Birth of Dante
1150 1200 1250
Frederick Barbarossa 1237 Lombard League defeat 1271 Marco
dressed as a Crusader Frederick at Battle of Cortenuova Polo sets off
1228 Gregory IX excommunicates Frederick II; on journey
1115 Death of 1220 Frederick II crowned struggle between Guelphs (the papal party) to China
Countess Matilda Holy Roman Emperor and Ghibellines (supporters of the emperor)





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58  I n T r ODuc I n G IT AL y

The Late Middle Ages

Old feuds between pope and emperor thrived throughout
the 14th century, kept alive by two warring factions –
the Guelphs, who backed the papacy, and the Ghibellines,
who favoured Imperial power. The cities of Lombardy and
Tuscany used the political confusion to grow in strength.
It was against this turbulent backdrop that a great new
age in painting was inspired by artists such as Duccio Italy in 1350
and Giotto. Also at this time the Florentine poets Dante Papal States
and Petrarch laid the foundations of Italian literature. Holy Roman Empire
Angevin Kingdom of Naples
The campanile or
bell tower
Medieval Town Square A griffin, symbol
Throughout central Italy, the town of Perugia
square was an expression of civic
pride and independence. Towns,
such as Perugia (see pp356–7),
tried to overshadow their rivals in
the splendour of their town halls.
The centre of Perugia has changed
little since the 14th century, when
the town’s main rival was Siena.
Condottieri
Cities paid condottieri, leaders
of bands of mercen aries, to fight
their wars. Siena hired Guidoriccio
da Fogliano, seen here in a
fresco by Simone Martini (1330).
The main chamber of the town hall,
the Sala dei Notari, is decorated with
the coats of arms of Perugia’s mayors.


The Fontana
Maggiore was
begun in 1275
and includes
panels by
Dante’s Inferno Nicola Pisano.
One of the harshest punishments in Prominently
Dante’s vision of hell is reserved for placed, it is an
corrupt popes, such as Boniface VIII emblem of the
(reigned 1294–1303), who are town’s wealth.
placed upside down in fiery pits.
1296 Work begins on 1310 Work 1339 Simon Boccanegra
1282 Sicilian Vespers; the Duomo in Florence 1309–43 Reign begins on Palazzo becomes first doge of
uprising against French of Robert the Ducale in Venice Genoa; Giovanna I 1347–9 The Black Death
rule in Palermo; 2,000 1298 Marco Polo returns Wise of Naples Queen of Naples
French soldiers killed from China to Venice 1313 Birth of Boccaccio
1275 1300 1325
1282 Peter of Aragon lands 1304 Birth 1321 Dante completes
at Trapani, conquers Sicily and of Petrarch 1309 Clement V La Divina Commedia
is crowned king in Palermo moves papacy and dies the same year
to Avignon 1347 Cola di Rienzo tries to
The poet and scholar Petrarch 1337 Death of Giotto re-establish Roman Republic





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the hist or y of it al y  59


Where to See
Late Medieval Italy
Many central Italian cities and towns
have public buildings from the 13th
and 14th centuries; among the most
impressive are Palazzo Vecchio (p295)
in Florence and Siena’s Palazzo
Pubblico (p344). Smaller towns that
preserve much of their medieval
character include Volterra (p338)
and the walled Monteriggioni (p338)
The Black Death in Tuscany, Gubbio (p356) and
Bubonic plague reached Italy in 1347, Todi (p363) in Umbria and Viterbo Piazza dei Priori in
carried on Genoese ships from the (pp468–9) in Lazio. The Duomo in Volterra (p338) is one
Black Sea. It killed over one third of the Orvieto (pp362–3) is a fine example of of the most beautiful
population, reducing the remainder a late 13th-century Gothic cathedral. medieval squares in Italy.
to a state of superstitious terror.
The cathedral was
started in 1350 and
used to include an
outside pulpit in
the square.









Construction of Alessandria
Almost all towns were ringed with
strong walls. This fresco (1407) by
Spinello Aretino is a valuable record
of medieval building techniques.




Return of Pope
Gregory XI to
Rome (1378)
For 70 years the
popes had lived in
Avignon, protected
by the French kings,
while nobles and
republicans fought
for control of Rome.
Medieval 1378–1415 Period of Schism, with rival
doctor
popes and antipopes in Rome and Avignon
1347–9 The Black Death
1380 Genoese fleet surrenders
to Venetians at Chioggia
1350 1375 1400
1354 Cola di Rienzo 1385 Gian Galeazzo Visconti 1406 Pisa
killed in Rome becomes ruler of Milan annexed by
Florence
1347 Cola di Rienzo tries to 1378 Gregory XI returns
re-establish Roman Republic from Avignon to Rome





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60  I n TRoduCI n G IT AL y

The Renaissance

Fifteenth-century Italy saw a flowering of the arts and
scholarship unmatched in Europe since the days of
Greece and Rome. Architects turned from the Gothic to
Classical models for inspiration, while painting, with its
new understanding of perspective and anatomy, produced
a generation of artists that included such giants as Leonardo
da Vinci, Raphael and Michelangelo. The patronage for this Italy in 1492
cultural “rebirth” came from the wealthy families that ruled Republic of Florence
the city-states of the north, led by the Medici of Florence. Papal States
In spite of intense rivalry, they oversaw a period of uneasy Aragonese possessions
stability out of which the Renaissance grew.
Piero de’ Medici,
Galeazzo Maria Lorenzo’s father, was
Sforza was the given the nickname
son of Milan’s ruler. “the Gouty”.







Christ Handing the Keys to St Peter
Perugino’s fresco in the Sistine Chapel (see p430)
links the authority of the pope to the New
Testament and, through the Classical buildings
in the background, to ancient Rome.
Self-portrait of
the artist












Execution of Savonarola (1498)
Having assumed the leadership of Florence
in 1494, the fanatical monk was hanged, then
burned for heresy in Piazza della Signoria.

1420 Martin V 1435 Publication of 1458–64 War between
re-establishes On Painting by Alberti, Houses of Aragon and 1469 Lorenzo
papacy in Rome which contains the 1436 Brunelleschi Anjou over Kingdom the Magnificent
first system for the use completes dome of of Naples becomes ruler
of linear perspective Florence cathedral of Florence
1400 1425 1450
1434 Cosimo de’ Medici 1442 Naples 1452 Birth of
comes to power in Florence captured by Leonardo da Vinci
Alfonso of Aragon
1453 Fall of Constantinople
1444 Federico da Montefeltro
Cosimo de’ Medici becomes Duke of Urbino Filippo Brunelleschi




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the hist or y of it al y  61


Where to See Renaissance Italy
Many cities were flourishing centres of the arts
in the 15th century. None can rival Florence
(pp274–317) with its great palazzi and the Uffizi
gallery (pp290–93), but Venice (pp88–141), Urbino
(pp374–5) and Mantua (p211) all preserve great
treasures. In Rome, do not miss the Vatican’s
Sistine Chapel and Raphael Rooms (pp428–31).

The Battle of Pavia (1525)
The French King Francis I was captured at this battle
against the army of the Habsburg Emperor Charles V,
who won control of Italy.
The Procession of the Magi
Benozzo Gozzoli’s fresco (1459) in the Palazzo
Medici-Riccardi, Florence, depicts members of the
Medici family and other contemporary notables. The Spedale degli Innocenti by Brunelleschi in
Florence (p281) shows the Classical symmetry
It contains many references to a great church and restraint of Renaissance architecture.
council held in Florence in 1439.





Humanism
Carpaccio’s painting
of St Augustine is
thought to show
Cardinal Bessarion
(c.1395–1472), one
of the scholars who
revived interest in
Classical philosophy,
especially Plato.

Lorenzo de’ Medici (the
Magnificent) was depicted
as one of the three kings
travelling to Bethlehem.
Pope Julius II
During his reign (1503–13),
the worldly Julius made the
papacy a major power in
European politics. Raphael’s
portrait shows him as a
shrewd old statesman.

1487 Birth of Titian 1503 Giuliano della Niccolò
1494 Italy Rovere elected Pope Machiavelli
1483 Sixtus IV invaded by Julius II; he proves the
consecrates Charles VIII most powerful of the 1527 Rome sacked
Sistine Chapel of France Renaissance popes by Imperial troops
1475 1500 1525
1475 Birth of 1512 Michelangelo 1525 Francis I of
Michelangelo Raphael completes Sistine France captured at
1483 Birth of Raphael Chapel ceiling Battle of Pavia
1532 Machiavelli’s book
1498 Savonarola executed; Machiavelli 1513 Giovanni de’ Medici The Prince is published,
secretary to ruling Council in Florence crowned Pope Leo X five years after his death




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62  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

The Counter-Reformation

After the Sack of Rome in 1527, Italy was at the mercy
of Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain.
Pope Clement VII, who had opposed Charles, crowned
him emperor in Bologna. In response to the growing threat
from Protestantism, a series of reforms, known as the
Counter-Reformation and backed by the Inquisition,
imposed rigid orthodoxy. New religious orders, such as Italy in 1550
the Jesuits, were set up to take the battle for men’s souls Spanish possessions
far overseas. The missionary spirit of the age inspired States allied with Spain
the dramatic forms of the Baroque.
The Virgin Mary
Emperor intervenes on the side
Charles V and of the Christians.
Pope Clement VII
The two former
enemies settled
their differences
and the future
destiny of Italy
in the Treaty of
Barcelona (1529).
Baroque Stucco Decoration
This stucco relief by Giacomo Serpotta (c.1690) in the
Oratory of Santa Zita in Palermo is a magnificent example
of late Baroque exuberance. The subject is a favourite
of the period, the Battle of Lepanto, a great naval
triumph for the combined forces of Christendom
against the Turks (1571).




The centre of
the ingenious
creation is,
in effect, a
framed painting
in perspective.

Baroque Architecture The young boy
rests his hand on a
Guarino Guarini’s decoration of helmet, symbol of
the dome of the Chapel of the the victorious Christians.
Holy Shroud in Turin (see p225)
was completed in 1694.
1600 Philosopher
1542 Inquisition Andrea Palladio 1580 Death of
established in Rome architect Palladio Giordano Bruno burned
1545–63 Council of for heresy in Rome
1530–37 Alessandro de’ Trent sets out agenda 1589 Palestrina publishes
Medici ruler of Florence of Counter-Reformation setting of the Latin Hymnal
1525 1550 1575 1600
1540 Founding 1571 Victory over Turkish
of Jesuit Order 1541 Michelangelo completes 1564 Birth fleet at Battle of Lepanto
Last Judgment in Sistine Chapel of Galileo
1529 Charles V crowned Holy Roman 1560 San Carlo Borromeo Giovanni Pierluigi
Emperor in San Petronio, Bologna appointed Bishop of Milan da Palestrina





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THE HIST OR Y OF IT AL Y  63


Where to See
Baroque Italy







Trial of Galileo
The great astronomer was often in trouble with the
Inquisition. He was summoned to Rome in 1633
and forced to deny that the Earth and planets
moved round the sun.
Lepanto was the last
major sea battle in which The Ecstasy of St Teresa
Venetian galleys played St Ignatius Loyola by Bernini (p416) has the
an important role. The Spanish saint dynamic theatricality
was the founder characteristic of the
best Baroque sculpture.
of the Jesuits –
sanctioned by the The Baroque is strongly associated
pope in Rome with Rome and in particular with
in 1540. its great public spaces such as
Piazza Navona (pp402–3) and the
many churches by Borromini and
Bernini. Other cities and towns
with striking Baroque architecture
include Lecce (pp516–17) in Puglia,
Palermo (pp530–33), Noto (p547)
and Siracusa (pp546–7) in Sicily,
and Turin (pp224–7).

Cherubs, a favourite
motif in Baroque
decoration








Revolt of Masaniello (1647)
High taxes made Spanish rule in Naples
The turban, symbol of unpopular. A proposed tax on fruit
the defeated Turks sparked off this failed revolt.

1626 New St Peter’s 1669 Venice loses 1694 Andrea Pozzo completes
consecrated in Rome island of Crete to ceiling fresco for the church of
the Turks Sant’Ignazio in Rome
1631 Duchy of Urbino
absorbed by Papal States 1678 Birth of Vivaldi
1600 1625 1650 1675
1633 Galileo 1647 Revolt in Naples in 1674 Revolt
condemned by 1642 response to tax on fruit against Spanish
papal authorities L’Incoronazione di rule in Messina 1693 Eastern Sicily ruined by
Poppea by 1669 Major eruption earthquake that kills 5 per cent
Monteverdi of Mount Etna of the island’s population





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64  INTRoduCING I TA l Y

The Grand Tour

The treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle in 1748 marked the
start of 50 years of peace. It was about this time
that Italy, with its great art treasures and Classical
ruins, including the newly excavated Pompeii,
became Europe’s first great tourist destination.
Young English “milords” visited Rome, Florence
and Venice as part of a new type of pilgrimage,
the Grand Tour, while artists and poets sought
inspiration in Rome’s glorious past. In 1800, Charles III’s Fleet at Naples (1753)
Napoleon, who conquered and briefly united Ruler of Naples from 1734 to 1759, when he
became King of Spain, Charles attempted
Italy, threatened to destroy the old order, genuine political reforms.
but in 1815 the status quo was restored.













Goethe in the Roman Campagna
Goethe toured Italy in the 1780s. Great
poets who followed his example included
the Romantics Keats, Shelley and Byron.
Farnese Hercules
(see p495)


The Dying Galatian
(see p390)
Gallery of
Venetian Carnival Views of Ancient
The colourful folklore of Rome by Pannini
Carnival attracted many
tourists, but Venice’s days Giovanni Pannini (1691–1765) painted
of greatness were over. views of Roman ruins for foreigners. This
In 1797, the proud mari­ painting is a capriccio, an imaginary
time republic was ceded scene incorporating many well-known
to Austria by Napoleon. views and Classical statues.

1713 Treaty of Utrecht gives Medici coat of arms 1748 First
Naples and Sardinia to Austria 1735 Peace of Vienna excavations
and Sicily to Piedmont 1725 The confirms Charles III as at Pompeii
Four Seasons King of the Two Sicilies
by Vivaldi (Naples and Sicily)
1700 1720 1740
1707 Birth of playwright Antonio Vivaldi,
Carlo Goldoni great Venetian
1737 End of Medici dynasty in composer
1718 Piedmont and Sardinia united under Florence; Grand Duchy of Tuscany
House of Savoy; Sicily passes to Austria passes to Austrian House of Lorraine





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THE HIST OR Y OF IT AL Y  65


Where to See 18th-century Italy
The 18th century produced two of Rome’s best-
loved tourist attractions: the Spanish Steps (p413)
and the Trevi Fountain (pp414–15). It was also the
age of the first purpose-built museums, including
the Vatican’s Museo Pio-Clementine (p425). The
Neo-Classical sculpture of Antonio Canova (1757–
1822) was immensely popular during this period.
His tomb is in Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari in
View of the Roman Forum by Piranesi Venice (pp102–3). Of Neo-Classical
The popular series of etchings Vedute di Roma (Views of buildings, the most imposing is a
Rome) by Giovanni Battista Piranesi (1720 –78) inspired vast monument to enlightened
a new interest in excavating the ruins of ancient Rome. despotism: the Palazzo
Reale at Caserta (p500).
The Colosseum was as
popular a subject in the 18th
century as it is on today’s
picture postcards.
Pauline Borghese, Napoleon’s sister, was the
model for Antonio Canova’s Venus (1805), in
the Villa Borghese collection in Rome (p443).






Napoleon
When Napoleon
conquered Italy in
1800, he was seen by
many as a liberator.
The enchantment
wore off as he took
priceless works of
art back to Paris.
The Laocoön
(see p421)


View of the Pantheon
(see p408)

Congress of Vienna (1815)
The conference decided that Austria should
keep Lombardy and Venice, thereby sowing
the seeds of the Italian unification movement.

La Scala Opera House, 1800–1801 Napoleon
Milan (see p197)
1797 Venice given to conquers Italy
Austria by Treaty of Campo 1809 Pope
1778 La Scala Formio; France controls 1808 Murat becomes Pius VII exiled
opened in Milan rest of northern Italy King of Naples from Rome
1760 1780 1800
1773 Pope dissolves 1780 Joseph II succeeds to Austrian 1806 Joseph Bonaparte
Jesuit Order throne; minor reforms in Lombardy becomes King of Naples
1768 Corsica sold by Genoa to France 1815 Congress of Vienna
1765–90 Reign of Leopold Grand Duke of 1796–7 Napoleon’s first restores status quo in Italy,
Tuscany, who introduces enlightened reforms campaign in northern Italy though Austria keeps Venice





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66  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

The Risorgimento

The word “Risorgimento” (resurgence) describes the
five decades of struggle for liberation from foreign rule,
culminating in the unification of Italy in 1870. In 1848,
patriots rose up against the Austrians in Milan and Venice,
the Bourbons in Sicily and the pope in Rome, where a
republic was declared. Garibaldi valiantly defended
the republic, but all the uprisings were too localized.
By 1859, the movement was better organized, with Vittorio Italy in 1861
Emanuele II at its head. Two years saw the conquest of all Kingdom of Italy
but Venice and Rome, both of which fell within a decade.

Giuseppe Mazzini
(1805–72)
An exile for much
of his life, Mazzini
fought alongside
Garibaldi to unite
Italy as a republic,
rather than a
kingdom.


The guns were rusty, old
converted flintlocks.
The red shirt was the
badge of the Garibaldini.











Italian Railways
The short railway line
from Naples to Portici Revolt of Messina
was opened in 1839. When, in 1848, Messina revolted,
Politically fragmented, Ferdinand II subjected the town to
Italy was slow to create a savage bombardment, earning
an effective rail network. himself the nickname King Bomba.

1840 First three major 1852 Cavour 1859 Battles of Magenta and Solferino;
1831 Insurrection in railway links established becomes prime Piedmont acquires Lombardy from Austria
Romagna and Le Marche 1849 Accession of minister of and duchies of Parma, Modena and Tuscany
against papal rule Vittorio Emanuele II Piedmont
as ruler of Piedmont
1820 1830 1840 1850
1820s Carbonari secret 1847 Economic crisis
society active in Papal States
1848 Revolutions
1831 Mazzini founds Giovine Daniele Manin, hero of the throughout Italy 1849 Republic of Rome
Italia (Young Italy) movement Venetian uprising of 1848 crushed by French troops





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THE HIST OR Y OF IT AL Y  67


Where to See Risorgimento Italy
Almost every town in Italy honours the heroes of
the Risorgimento with a Via Garibaldi, a Via Cavour, a
Piazza Vittorio, a Via Mazzini and a Via XX Settembre
(the date of the fall of Rome in 1870). Many cities
also have Risorgimento museums. One of the best
is in Turin (p227).


Battle of Solferino (1859)
With the help of a French army led by
Napoleon III, the Piedmontese won Milan
and Lombardy from the Austrians.

The Victor Emmanuel Monument (p388) is a
prominent, but largely unloved, Roman landmark.

Two old paddle steamers
brought the Thousand from
Quarto near Genoa.
Count Camillo di
Cavour (1810–61)
Cavour’s diplomacy
as prime minister of
Piedmont ensured that
the House of Savoy
became rulers of the
new Italy. He also
coined the word
“Risorgimento”.
The skiffs were lent
by other ships moored
in Marsala harbour.



Giuseppe Verdi
Garibaldi and the Thousand (1813 –1901)
Composers such as
Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807–82) was a leader Verdi, Donizetti and
of courage and genius. In 1860, he landed at Rossini made the 19th
Marsala with 1,000 volunteers. The garrison century the great era of
at Palermo surrendered, Sicily fell and he Italian opera. Verdi’s
went on to conquer Naples, thus presenting early operas inspired
Vittorio Emanuele with half a kingdom. the Risorgimento.

1859 Battles of Magenta and Solferino; Pope Pius IX, who remained a virtual
Piedmont acquires Lombardy from Austria prisoner in the Vatican when Rome 1893 Troops
and duchies of Parma, Modena and Tuscany became capital of Italy
sent to suppress
1861 Kingdom of Italy 1882 Deaths of Garibaldi insurrection
proclaimed with capital at Turin and Pope Pius IX in Sicily
1850 1860 1870 1880 1890
1866 Italy wins 1870 Rome falls to royalist 1878 Death of Vittorio Emanuele;
Venice from Austria troops and is made capital accession of King Umberto I
of new kingdom; Vatican 1890 Italian colony
1849 Republic of Rome 1860 Garibaldi and the Thousand announces doctrine of of Eritrea established
crushed by French troops capture Kingdom of the Two Sicilies papal infallibility by royal decree





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68  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

Modern Italy

Fascism under Mussolini (1922–43) promised the Italians
greatness, but delivered only humiliation. In spite of
this, Italy has become one of Europe’s leading economies,
with a standard of living that could not have been
imagined at the turn of the 20th century. This has been
achieved in the face of great obstacles. Since 1946, the
Republic has passed through many crises: a series of
unstable coalitions, the terrorist outrages in the 1970s 1936 Fiat produces first “Topolino” car
and, in the 1990s, corruption scandals involving
numerous government ministers and officials. 1960 La Dolce Vita,
Federico Fellini’s film
satire on Rome’s
decadent café
society, is released
1922 Fascists
march on Rome; 1940 Italy
Mussolini invited to enters World
form government War II
1918 Austrian
advance halted
1900 Assassination at the river Piave, 1943 Allies land in Sicily; Italy
of King Umberto I just north of signs armistice and new
1911–12 Italy Venice Badoglio government
conquers Libya declares war on Germany
1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
1908 Earthquake
destroys many 1943 1946 Referendum
towns and villages Mussolini in which Italy votes
in Calabria and 1915 1936 Italy conquers Abyssinia; imprisoned, to become a
eastern Sicily; Italy enters pact with Germany, forming then freed by republic; Christian
Messina almost World War I anti-Communist “Axis” Germans Democrat party
completely razed forms first of a long
to the ground; 1920s Postwar years see continued series of coalition
over 150,000 die emigration to the United States. governments
Here, emigrants cheer as they reach
New York aboard the Giulio Cesare


1957 Treaty of Rome;
Italy one of the six founder
members of the European
Economic Community

1960 Olympic Games and first official
1917 Defeat at Paralympic Games held in Rome
Caporetto on Italy’s
northeastern border;
Italian troops, such as
these Alpini, retreat to
defensive positions
1909 In his Futurist
Manifesto, Filippo Marinetti
condemns all traditional art as
too static. His idea of a new
dynamic art is expressed in
works such as Umberto
Boccioni’s bronze Unique
Forms of Continuity in Space


068-069_EW_Italy.indd 68 4/4/17 5:32 PM

THE HIST OR Y OF IT AL Y  69




1978 Ex-prime minister
Aldo Moro kidnapped
and assassinated by
the Red Brigades



1994 TV magnate Silvio
Berlusconi becomes
prime minister after 1996 Fire destroys La Fenice theatre in Venice
forming political party 1997 Earthquake in Assisi seriously
“Forza Italia”. Alleged damages the Basilica di San Francesco,
financial irregularities destroying Giotto’s frescoes
force him to resign
later that year 2000 Rome celebrates the
Holy Year known as the Jubilee
1992 Judge Giovanni 2002 Euro is adopted
Falcone killed by 2006 Italy wins World Cup in Germany
Mafia in Sicily
2008 Silvio Berlusconi wins third term as
prime minister but resigns in 2011 as the
1992 Scandals expose country is gripped by financial crisis
widespread corruption in
the postwar political system 2011 Mario Monti sworn
1966 River Arno in as prime minister
bursts its banks, 1983 Bettino
flooding Florence Craxi, Italy’s first 2013 Pope Benedict XVI resigns
and damaging Socialist prime and Pope Francis is elected
many priceless minister, forms 2014 Democrat Matteo Renzi is
works of art government elected prime minister
1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1990 World 2016 Rome elects its first
Cup staged female mayor, Virginia Raggi
1978 in Italy
Election of 2015 Milan hosts the
Pope John Universal Exposition
Paul II
2014 Landslide victory of
1982 premier Renzi’s Democratic
Italian football party at the European election
team wins World
Cup in 2013 Election results in
Spain coalition government
2011 Italy celebrates
1969 Bomb outrage
in Milan at Piazza 150 years of unification
Fontana; 13 killed 2006 Romano Prodi sworn
and many injured in as prime minister
2005 Election of Pope Benedict XVI
1999 Roberto Benigni wins three Oscars
for his film La Vita è Bella, including best
actor and best foreign language film
1997 Dario Fo wins the Nobel Prize in Literature
Italian Cinema Since World War II
The social problems of late 1940s Italy such as Death in Venice (1971), show
inspired a wave of cinema known as Neo- formal beauty and decadence, while
Realism. Leading exponents included Roberto Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita (1960)
Rossellini, who made Roma Città Aperta (1945), and Roma (1972) depict life as a grotesque
Vittorio de Sica, the director of Bicycle Thieves carnival. Italy has also produced some
(1948), Pier Paolo Pasolini and Luchino commercially successful films, such as
Visconti. Since that time, the major Sergio Leone’s late 1960s westerns and
Italian directors have cultivated their Vittorio de Sica the Oscar-winning Cinema Paradiso and
own personal styles. Visconti’s later films, (1901–74) La Vita è Bella.





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70  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

ITALY THROUGH THE YEAR

Throughout Italy, the variety of local in a healthy interest in food and produce,
character and colour is astonishing. This is as well as a perseverance of seasonal religious
mainly due to the survival of regionalism, and secular events. Annual festivals, whether
particularly in the southern parts of the in rural or urban areas, range from wine-
country. Old traditions, customs and lifestyles tasting and gastronomic celebrations to
are still greatly respected and there is a deep elaborate commemorations of every patron
attachment to the land, which is reflected saint imaginable.


the city’s streets, up and down
Spring
the bridges.
The Italian spring begins early,
particularly in the south. City April
streets and main sights are rarely Procession of the Grieving
overcrowded (except at Easter Madonna (Good Friday),
in Rome). The weather, however, Procida, Campania. A colourful
can be unpredictable and wet religious procession throughout
in the central and northern parts the island.
of the country. Spring specialities, Holy Week (Easter
such as asparagus, spinach Week). Numerous
and rocket, begin to feature Easter celebrations
on restaurant menus. from Palm Sunday
This is a season of great to Easter Sunday,
celebration; festivals and throughout the country.
fairs abound, especially Papal Address (Easter Scoppio del Carro (Explosion of the
in Sicily, and the Easter Sunday), Rome. The pope Carriage) festival in Florence
papal address always makes his Easter address
draws massive crowds from the Vatican. Sagra Musicale Lucchese
to St Peter’s. Dance of the Devils (dates vary), Lucca, Tuscany.
(Easter Sunday), Prizzi, Festival of sacred music held
March Tuscan Sicily. Dance recital in Romanesque churches.
Dolomiti Ski Jazz Festival, asparagus symbolizing the attempts
(mid-Mar), Val di Fiemme, of evil to vanquish May
Trentino-Alto Adige. Live jazz the forces of good. Festa di Sant’Efisio (1 May),
on the ski slopes. Scoppio del Carro (Easter Cagliari, Sardinia. Paraders in
Sa Sartiglia, Oristano, Sardinia. Sunday), Florence. Firework traditional Sardinian costume.
Three-day carnival ending on display is lit by a mechanical Festa di San Nicola (7–9 May),
Shrove Tuesday. dove in front of the Duomo. Bari, Puglia. A statue of St
Su e zo per i ponti (Sun, varies), Festa della Madonna che Nicholas is taken to the sea.
Venice. A lively race through Scappa in Piazza Festa dei Ceri (15 May), Gubbio,
(Easter Sunday), Umbria. Festival, including a
Sulmona, Abruzzo. race with four teams carrying
Re-enactment large candles.
of a meeting Festa di San
between the Virgin Domenico Abate
and the Risen Christ. (first Thu), Cocullo,
Festa degli Aquiloni Abruzzo. Includes
(first Sun after Easter), a procession with a
San Miniato, Tuscany. Spring statue of St Dominic
Kite lovers perform aerial strawberries covered with live snakes.
acro batics at this festival. Festa dello Speck
Festa di San Marco (25 Apr), (late May), Bolzano, Trentino-
Venice. St Mark, the patron saint Alto Adige. A celebration of
of Venice, is commemorated the famed ham.
by a gondola race across Greek Drama in Theatre (May–
St Mark’s Basin. Jun), Syracuse, Sicily. Festival of
Mostra Mercato Inter nazionale Greek drama.
dell’Artigianato (last week), Maggio Musicale (May–Jun),
Florence. An important Florence. This is the city’s
Procession of the Grieving Madonna European exhibition of arts biggest arts festival, including
on the isle of Procida and crafts. music, drama and dance.




070-071_EW_Italy.indd 70 26/04/16 4:30 pm

IT AL Y THROUGH THE Y EAR  71

ITALY THROUGH THE YEAR Festa di Sant’Andrea (27 Jun),
Amalfi, Campania. Fireworks
and processions.
Festival dei Due Mondi (late
Jun–early Jul), Spoleto, Umbria.
International festival of drama,
music and dance.
Gioco del Ponte (last Sun), Pisa.
“The Bridge Parade” of marchers
in antique armour.
Estate Romana (late Jun–
mid-Sep), Rome. Open-air A crowded beach near Livorno, Tuscany,
cinema, performances, ballet during the summer holidays
and concerts.
Opera Festival (Jul & Aug),
July Verona, Veneto. Renowned opera
Corsa del Palio (2 Jul), Siena. festival over-lapping with the
Tuscany’s most famous event Shakespeare Festival, providing
(see p345) presents a medi eval music, drama, opera and dance.
flag-waving exhibition and
Street carpeted with flowers for the horse race. August
Infiorata in Genzano Festa della Madonna della Medieval Palio (first week–
Bruna (first end Aug) Feltre, Veneto. Parades
Sun), Matera, and archery com petitions,
Summer Basilicata. medieval-style.
Summer brings A lively Festa del Mare (15 Aug), Diano
the crowds to Italy, procession Marina, Liguria. This “Festival of
particularly the cities. of clergy men the Sea” boasts a spectacular
Italians, however, flee and knights firework display.
and head for the coast, in costume. Festa dei Candelieri (14 Aug),
usually in August. Festa de’ Noantri Sassari, Sardinia. “Festival of
The queues for tourist (last two weeks the Candle”, dating from the
attractions can be long and Jul), Rome. 16th century.
hotels are often fully booked. A colourful festival Corsa del Palio (16 Aug), Siena,
Festivals vary; religious in Trastevere. Tuscany. See July entry.
events are interspersed Festa della Santa Rossini Festival (mid-Aug), Pesaro,
with those of the arts and Maria del Carmine Le Marche. A celebration of the
local folklore. (16 Jul), Naples. composer’s work, in his birthplace.
Featuring the Venice Film Festival (late Aug–
June Musician from illumination early Sep). Inter national festival
Festa della Fragola Florence’s Calcio of the city’s on the Lido.
(1 Jun), Borgo San Martino, bell tower. Settimane Musicali di Stresa
Piedmont. Musical and folkloric Umbria Jazz (Jul), Perugia. (late Aug–end Sep), Stresa,
performances in celebration of World-famous jazz artists Lombardy. Four weeks of
the strawberry. perform in various settings. concerts and recitals.
Biennale (Jun–Sep), Venice.
The world’s biggest exhibition
of contemporary art takes
place during odd-numbered
years only.
Infiorata (Corpus Christi day),
Genzano, Lazio. A procession
through streets carpeted
with flowers.
International Film Festival
(mid-Jun), Taormina, Sicily.
Festa di San Giovanni (mid-
Jun–mid-Jul), Turin, Piedmont.
Festival in honour of the city’s
patron saint, John.
Calcio Storico (24 Jun and two
other days in Jun), Florence.
Football in 16th-century
costumes; fireworks. Flag-throwers in Piazza del Campo, Siena, just before the Corsa del Palio




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72  INTRODUCING IT AL Y


Wine festivals (first week),
Autumn
Castelli Romani, Lazio.
Autumn is a slow, gentle season Sagra del Tordo (last Sun)
in Italy, but that doesn’t mean Montalcino, Tuscany.
there are fewer festivals and Celebration of the thrush;
fairs. In addition to the various costumed archery contests.
religious events at this time Festa dell’Uva (dates vary),
of year, gastronomic festivals Bolzano, Trentino-Alto Adige.
are especially popular, Grape festival with live music
commemorating such The widely cultivated olive tree and a costumed procession
delectables as chestnuts, featuring allegoric carts.
local cheeses, sausages and Rassegna del Chianti Classico International Festival of
mushrooms. Autumn is the (second week), Chianti, Tuscany. Cinema (dates vary), Rome.
season of the vendemmia, the Celebration of the local wines. A week of screenings, high-
grape harvest, which is often Auditorium Parco della Musica profile events and celebrity
used as an excuse for village Season (Sep–Jul), Rome. The spotting in the capital.
fest ivities at which the latest wide program includes classical,
local wines flow freely. jazz and rock music, as well as a
The climate (see pp76–7) in circus and a popular modern
late autumn is often cold and dance festival.
wet in the north. The south, The Miracle of San
however, can be quite warm Gennaro (19 Sep), Naples.
right through October. Re- enactment of the
liquefaction of the saint’s
blood, in a lively Mass at
the Duomo.
Palio (third Sun), Asti,
Piedmont. Includes a cost-
umed medieval procession
and bareback horse racing.
October A roast chestnut stall in autumn
Amici della Musica (Oct–Apr),
Florence, Tuscany. The popular November
“Friends of Music” concert Festa dei Popoli (Nov), Florence,
season begins. Tuscany. Film festival showing
Fiera del Tartufo (Oct–Nov), documentary films in their
Alba, Piedmont. A variety of original languages with
events centred around the Italian subtitles.
Advertisement for the September Palio locally grown white truffle. Festa della Salute (21 Nov),
in Asti, Piedmont Festa di San Francesco Venice. Cherished by Ven etian
(4 Oct), Assisi, Umbria. Feast locals, this feast gives thanks
September in honour of one of Italy’s to the Virgin Mary in memory
Festa di Santa Lucia (first Sun), patron saints. of a 1630 plague.
Lodè, Sardinia. Includes a
contest where competitors
improvise short poems.
Procession of the Macchina
di Santa Rosa (3 Sep), Viterbo,
Lazio. Commemoration of the
saint’s body being transported to
the Church of Santa Rosa in 1258.
Giostra del Saracino (first Sun),
Arezzo, Umbria. Joust of the
Saracen and knights, dating
from the 13th century.
Regata Storica (first Sun), Venice.
A procession of historic boats plus
a colourful gondola race.
Human chess game (second
week), Marostica, near Vicenza.
A popular costumed game
held in the main square every
even year. The human chess game in the town square of Marostica




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IT AL Y THROUGH THE Y EAR  73


Winter
There are fairs, m arkets and
religious events up and down
the country at this time of year.
Neapolitan Christmas cribs are
famous and nearly every church
has one. The Christmas holiday
itself is low-key; more is made
of other religious events such
as the liquefaction of San
Gennaro’s blood in Naples
and the Carnevale in Venice.
December
Festa di Sant’Ambrogio
(early Dec), Milan. The official Rome during one of its rare snowfalls
opening of La Scala Opera
season (see p197). spirits of the old year and to Public Holidays
Festa della Madonna di Loreto welcome in the new.
(10 Dec), Loreto, Le Marche. La Befana (6 Jan), through out New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
Celebration of the Virgin’s Italy. Children’s holiday with Epiphany (6 Jan)
Holy House. presents and sweets. Easter Sunday & Monday
Mercato della Befana Pitti Immagine Uomo, Pitti Liberation Day (25 Apr)
(mid-Dec–6 Jan), Rome. Well- Immagine Donna, Pitti Imma­ Labour Day (1 May)
known Christmas fair held in gine Bimbo, Fortezza da Basso, Republic Day (2 Jun)
Ferragosto (15 Aug)
Piazza Navona. Florence. Month of inter- All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
The Miracle of San Gennaro national fashion shows for Immaculate
(16 Dec), Naples. women, men and children. Conception (8 Dec)
See September. Festa di San Christmas Day (25 Dec)
Christmas fair (mid-Dec), Sebastiano Santo Stefano (26 Dec)
Naples. Fair selling crib (Sun nearest 20
figures and decorations. Jan), Dolce acqua,
Fiaccole di Natale Liguria. A laurel Sagra delle Mandorle in
(Christmas Eve), tree cover ed Fiore (first or second week),
Abbadia di San with colourful Agrigento, Sicily. Annual
Salvatore, Tuscany. communion hosts almond blossom celebration.
Features carols and Carnevale, is carried through town. Bacanal del Gnoco (dates vary),
processions in mem ory Viareggio Festa d’o’Cippo di Verona. Traditional masked
of the first shepherds. Sant’Antonio (17 Jan), procession with both inter-
Midnight Mass (24 Dec), at Naples. A procession for national and local allegorical
churches all over the country. St Anthony, protector of animals. floats. Masked balls are held
Christmas Day (25 Dec), Carnevale (a month-long event in the town’s squares.
St Peter’s Square, Rome. finishing Shrove Tue), Viareggio, Carnevale (dates vary),
Public blessing by the pope. Tuscany. A carnival famous for Mamoiada, Sardinia.
its lively, topically themed floats. Processions include
Fair of St Orsa (30 & 31 Jan), mamuthones
Aosta, Valle d’Aosta. Exhibition wearing sinister
of traditional arts and crafts. black masks.
February
Carnevale (last ten days
before Lent, finishing
Shrove Tuesday), Venice.
Pre-Lent festival
meaning “farewell to
La Befana at Piazza Navona, Rome meat”. Events are
organized, but
January anyone can buy a
Capodanno (1 Jan), all over mask and watch
the country. New Year’s Day is the array of
celebrated with fireworks and gorgeous
volleys from hunters firing into costumes
the air to scare off ghosts and on display. Carnevale revellers in Venice




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74  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

The Sporting Year

Football is by far the most important sport in Italy,
uniting the country when the national team (Azzurri)
plays. A range of other sporting events, including
cycling, skiing and tennis, also take place throughout
the year, so fans are never at a loss for something to
watch. For most big matches or tournaments, tickets can
be obtained for cash at club outlets such as the venue
itself. Agencies provide hard-to-get tickets at often
higher prices. Beware of the inevitable touts at popular
events, as their expensive tickets may not be valid. Calcio Fiorentino, one of
Italy’s few indigenous sports,
is said to be the medieval
precursor of modern football.
Coppa Italia football final

Memorial d’Aloia
rowing competition,
held in Umbria
The Giro d’Italia
The professional water polo cycling race takes
season takes place from March place over many
through to July. The Canottieri stages. The Italian
Napoli team play consistently well Vincenzo Nibali
through the championship. (left) won the
race in 2013.




January February March April May June July



Indoor Athletics International
Championships Showjumping,
Rome
Rome Marathon



The Rome Masters, previously
known as the Italian Open,
takes place in Rome during
May. The event is one of the
most prestigious clay court The Italian leg of
tennis competitions in the world. the Circuito Mondiale
in Mugello. Valentino
Rossi has dominated
the MotoGP World
Championship for
over a decade.
Rugby is becoming increasingly
popular. Italy takes part in the
Six Nations Championship in
February and March, along
with England, Scotland, Wales,
Ireland and France.




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IT AL Y THROUGH THE Y EAR  75

The Italian Outdoor
European Swimming
Championships are
held every year in
July. The Olympic
gold medal winner
Massimiliano Rosolino
is pictured here
celebrating a victory.




Italy has some of the best ski resorts in
Europe, and in 2006 Turin hosted the
Winter Olympics. Above is Alberto
Tomba, once a champion of the slopes.



The Italian Grand Prix,
held annually at Monza,
is Italy’s round of
the inter national
Formula One World
Championship.
Giancarlo Fisichella
has been one of
Italy’s most Trofeo dei The Sanremo Car Rally, held
successful drivers. each year in October, was made
Templi rowing famous by driver Miki Biasion
competition, Sicily and the Lancia Delta Integrale.



July August September October November December




Siena Palio Italy won the
(see p345), World Cup in The Italian football season
held on 2 July 2006 runs from September through to
and 16 August May. It culminates with the Coppa
Italia final, which is equivalent to
the British FA Cup. Italy’s football
obsession, however, reaches fever
pitch when the World Cup takes
place every four years.





Key to Sporting Seasons
Football
The Outdoor Athletics Water polo
Championship has become Rugby
very popular. One of Italy’s Basketball
foremost athletes is race walker
Alex Schwazer, winner of an Volleyball
Olympic gold medal in 2008. Skiing




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76  INTRODUCING IT AL Y

The Climate of Italy TRENTINO -ALTO
ADIGE Average monthly maximum
temperature
The Italian peninsula has a varied climate 28
falling into three distinct geographical °C Average monthly minimum
regions. Cold Alpine winters and warm, 16 17 temperature
wet summers characterize the northern 17 5 5 Average daily hours
regions. In the extensive Po Valley, arid 4 −5 of sunshine
summers contrast with freezing, damp 6 8 4 2 Average monthly
winters. The rest of Italy has a pleasant hrs hrs hrs hrs rainfall
climate, with long, hot summers and 67 100 83 20
mm
mild winters. Cooler weather along the month Apr mm mm mm
Jul
Oct
Jan
backbone of the Apennines can bring Trento
snow during the winter months.
Aosta
Milan Trieste
LOMBARDY Verona Venice
Turin Padova
° C 28 Parma Ferrara
18 18 17 Genoa
Bologna Ravenna
8 10
6
−1
5 9 5 3
hrs hrs hrs hrs Florence
74 78 89 64 Ancona
mm mm mm mm Livorno
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Perugia
VALLE D’AOSTA AND LIGURIA Pescara
PIEDMONT
L'Aquila
° C 26 ° C 28 Rome
17 17 18 20 21
15 14
11.5 12
7 7 Foggia
6 6.5
−2.5 Bari
5 9 4 3 7 9 8 4 Olbia
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
95 87 85 45 66 30 74 69 Naples
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm Salerno Potenza
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan Taranto

Cagliari
SARDINIA TUSCANY EMILIA-ROMAGNA

29 29 30
° C ° C ° C Catanzaro
22
19 20 17 20 19
14 14 16 15 17 16
10 8 10 10
7 8.5 4 Reggio di
2 −1 Calabria
8 11 6 4 8 11 6 5 6 11 5 3 Messina
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
31 7 48 50 72 30 90 65 58 39 81 46
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm Catania
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan Agrigento



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IT AL Y THROUGH THE Y EAR  77


THE VENETO AND LE MARCHE UMBRIA
FRIULI
28
°C °C 27 °C 29
17 18 18 16 20 19 19 16 19
13
7 9 7 9 8.5 6 9 8
3
0 1
7 9 4 2 6 10 5 3 5 10 6 3
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
112 108 134 90 56 55 77 67 79 44 92 75
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
Trento month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Aosta
Milan Trieste
Verona Venice ABRUZZO, MOLISE ROME AND LAZIO
Turin Padova AND PUGLIA
°C 28 °C 29
Parma Ferrara 21 22
18 20 18 19
Genoa 14
Bologna Ravenna 10 13 13 12
6 9 4.5
6 10 6 4 6 10 7 5
Florence hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
47 27 68 61 51 21 95 87
Livorno Ancona mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Perugia
NAPLES AND
Pescara CAMPANIA
L'Aquila 30
°C
21 22
Rome 19
18
12 13
7
Foggia
Bari 7 11 6 4
Olbia hrs hrs hrs hrs
58 12 68 85
Naples mm mm mm mm
Salerno Potenza Taranto month Apr Jul Oct Jan
SICILY
°C 29
Cagliari 24
19 20
16 15
12 BASILICATA AND
9 CALABRIA
8 11 7 4 Catanzaro °C 29.5
hrs hrs hrs hrs 21.5
18 18.5
29 7 59 59 14 13
mm mm mm mm 9.5
Reggio di 6.5
month Apr Jul Oct Jan Calabria
Messina
6 10 5 4
hrs hrs hrs hrs
70 13 86 90
Catania
mm mm mm mm
Agrigento month Apr Jul Oct Jan

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Northeast


Italy





Introducing Northeast Italy 80–87

Venice 88–129
Venice Street Finder 130–141
The Veneto and Friuli 142–169
Trentino-Alto Adige 170–179















































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80  NOR THEAST IT AL Y

Introducing Northeast Italy

The sheer variety to be found in northeast Italy makes it a fascinating area to
explore. The majestic Dolomites dominate the north, straddling Trentino-Alto
Adige and the Veneto, and are dotted with medieval castles and modern skiing
resorts. On the plain, the cities of Verona, Vicenza and Padua are all noted for
outstanding architecture and museums, while the rural hinterland
boasts beautiful villas. The incomparable
and spectacular city of Venice, with its
magnificent monuments, rises from the
lagoon. Further east, in Friuli, there are Malles Brunico
Venosta
important Roman remains. This map Bressanone
pinpoints some of the highlights. Merano
(Meran)
Cortina
d’Ampezzo
Bolzano Tarvisio
(Bozen)
TRENTINO-ALTO-ADIGE Tolmezzo
(See pp170–79)

FRIULI-
Belluno
Trento VENEZIA
GIULIA
Vittorio
Riva del Veneto Udine
Gardo Pordenone
Alto Adige is a dramatic region of snow- Rovereto Gorizia
covered mountain valleys scattered with
Bassano
forbidding castles and onion-domed del Grappo Piave
churches in the Tyrolean style (see pp174–7).
Oderzo Monfalcone
THE VENETO AND FRIULI Treviso
(See pp142–69)
Lake VENETO Trieste
Garda Vicenza Caorle
Mestre
Villafranca Verona
di Verona Padua
Venice
(see inset below)
The Dolomites (see Montagnana
pp86–7) form the Monselice Chioggia
spectacular back- Adige
drop to many towns
in northeast Italy,
among them Trento, Rovigo
the region’s capital
(see pp178–9). Po
Verona is one of the
loveliest cities in the Veneto,
boasting the Castelvecchio
and a Roman arena now
used for performances of
opera (see pp146–51).
Vicenza, a model
Renaissance city, is domi-
nated by the buildings
of Palladio, such as the
Palazzo della Ragione and
La Rotonda (see pp154–7).
Santa Maddalena with the Dolomites in the background



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INTRODUCING NOR THEAST IT AL Y  81






Udine in Friuli is an
interesting city which centres
on the elegant Piazza della
Libertà. The piazza contains a
number of imposing statues,
including a colossal figure of
Hercules, and the Porticato di
San Giovanni (see pp166–7). Locator Map
Malles Brunico 0 kilometres 40
Venosta 0 miles 20
Bressanone
Merano
(Meran)
Cortina
d’Ampezzo
Bolzano Tarvisio
(Bozen)
TRENTINO-ALTO-ADIGE Tolmezzo
(See pp170–79)

FRIULI-
Belluno Aquileia, once a splendid Roman
Trento VENEZIA
GIULIA city, is filled with ancient remains,
such as this Mausoleum. Its
Vittorio
Riva del Veneto Udine Basilica houses early Christian
Gardo Pordenone mosaics (see p168).
Rovereto Gorizia
Bassano Piave
del Grappo
Oderzo Monfalcone
THE VENETO AND FRIULI Treviso
(See pp142–69)
Lake VENETO Trieste
Garda Vicenza Caorle
Mestre Padua boasts several major
Villafranca Verona sights, among them the Basilica di
di Verona Padua
Venice Sant’Antonio and the Cappella degli Scrovegni
(see inset below) with its frescoes by Giotto (see pp158–63).
Montagnana
Monselice Chioggia
Basilica di San Marco in VENICE The Palazzo Ducale is
Adige
Venice is one of Europe’s (See pp88–141) a masterpiece of
finest Byzantine buildings, Venetian Gothic
Rovigo with a magnificent gilded architecture
Po interior (see pp114–17). CANNAREGIO (see pp118–20).
CANNAREGIO
SANT
SANTAA
CROCE
CROCE
Canal Grande
SAN POL
SAN POLOO
CASTELL
CASTELLOO
SAN MARCO
SAN MARCO
DORSODURO
DORSODURO
0 kilometres 1
0 miles 0.5
LA GIUDECCA
LA GIUDECCA
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82  NOR THEAST IT AL Y


The Flavours of Northeast Italy

This diverse region is the least Italian area of Italy. Bordering on Balkan and
Austro-Hungarian territory, its food reflects this rich culture and landscape.
Venice’s traditional trading links have given a Middle Eastern flavour to
some dishes, such as sweet and sour saor sauce, and spices like nutmeg,
saffron and cinnamon feature widely. While pasta is eaten, many dishes
are accompanied with the more typical polenta, made from yellow
maize flour, and risotto is also a favourite. Butter is sometimes used
instead of olive oil. From hearty, rib-sticking fare to the most delicate
and sophisticated of dishes, this is a region full of gastronomic surprises. Saffron

favourite pasta is bigoli, a thick, and the local fish soup (sopa
noodle-like spaghetti. de pesse) is deliciously hearty.
Vegetables are plentiful, Finely sliced raw beef
including courgettes (zucchini), (carpaccio) had its origins
asparagus, red radicchio (endive) here, created by Giuseppe
from Treviso and variegated Cipriani at Venice’s Harry’s Bar.
radicchio from Castelfranco. Delicious, traditional tiramisù
Venetian specialities include is also said to originate from
cichetti and antipasti – snacks Venice, and sorbets are
and starters such as marinaded common too. It was the
sardines, fried artichokes Venetians who introduced
(articiochi in Venetian dialect), cane sugar to Europe and their
and seafood in bite-size sweet tooth is still evident in
Delicate, sweet fried pastries portions, especially mussels the rich candied fruit, sultanas
in a Trieste bakery (peoci). Venetian crab and pine nuts acquired from
(granceola) is highly prized, the Turks and Byzantines.
The Veneto & Venice
Caper berries Marinated white Olives wrapped
The Veneto is now one of Italy’s anchovies in anchovies
main rice-growing regions. Seafood cocktail
Rice was introduced from
Spain by the Arabs, and is the
staple ingredient for many
versatile local dishes. Creamy
risottos come in many guises
including di mare (with
seafood), in which cuttlefish
ink gives the dish a dramatic,
dark appearance. The Veneto’s Selection of Venetian antipasti, the perfect appetizer

Regional Dishes and Specialities
Antipasto di frutti di mare (a mixed seafood appetizer) is a special
favourite in Venice, where the ingredients come fresh from the
Adriatic. From lovely Lake Garda, anguilla del pescatore (stewed eel),
lavarelli al vino bianco (lake fish in white wine) and carpione (a type
of lake trout) are all fishy delights. Another fish speciality of the
region is baccalà alla veneziana, made with dried salt
cod. Pork and salamis feature throughout the area, but
in Friuli goose is often used as an alternative to pork,
with succulent cured meat offerings such as salame
d’oca (goose salami). Game is also found on the
menu, together with sauerkraut and filling
goulash, while desserts often have an
Austrian flavour too, such as Apfelstrudel.
But the region is also proud of claiming Sarde in saor Venetian speciality
as its own the decadent, classic Italian of fried sardines in a sweet
Asparagus dessert tiramisù. and sour onion mar inade,
with pine nuts.






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INTRODUCING NOR THEAST IT AL Y  83



(smoked ham) and salamis,
as well as warming soups
including the classic minestrone.
Bread dumplings – canederli
in Italian but knödel in Alto
Adige – feature more than
pasta. Trentino risottos include
sweet and savoury variations.
Especially good are those made
with finferli mushrooms, highly
prized and similar to Tuscan
porcini (ceps) in flavour and
quality. Alpine trout is flavour­
some and game dishes,
especially venison and rabbit,
Delivering fresh vegetables on the waterways of Venice are popular in season, often
served with polenta. The
Friuli-Venezia Giulia on local menus. The area Trentino apple is crisp
A culinary crossroads, this produces fine sweet ham and and delicious.
region marks the meeting prosciutto (including the fabled,
point of Slavic, Germanic and succulent San Daniele). Goose is On the Menu
Latin traditions and was once a staple dish, as is Istrian lamb,
the poorest of the northern grazed in the open air on local Carpaccio (Venice & the Veneto)
Italian regions. Varieties of herbs and grasses that impart Wafer­thin slices of raw beef
Hungarian goulash and a delicious flavour. in extra virgin olive oil with
Austrian strudels often appear Trieste is famous for its rocket leaves and slivers of
Viennese pastries and sweet Parmesan cheese.
gnocchi, prune dumplings Fegato alla Veneziana Calf’s
sprinkled with sugar and liver served on a bed of onions.
cinnamon. Friuli’s dairy Jota (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) A soup
speciality is Montasio, a hard of barley and sauerkraut. This
cheese made from cow’s milk. cheap and filling dish is often
mixed with brovada – turnips
that have been steeped in a
Trentino & Alto Adige wooden cask of grape pressings.
Strong Austrian influences Strangolapreti (Trentino-Alto
from the Alto Adige combine Adige) Dumplings (gnocchi)
with hearty fare from the moun­ made with bread, spinach or
tainous region of Trentino, as potatoes, coated with butter
well as more southern Italian and cheese. Literally means
Fresh radicchio and peppers piled high flavours. Staple dishes include “priest stranglers”!
in a Treviso market cured meats such as speck















Risi e bisi Soft and moist risotto Polenta Cornmeal porridge Tiramisù A rich pudding of
mixing rice with fresh peas, served plain as a side dish, mascarpone, sponge fingers,
sometimes with ham and often with rabbit, or con coffee and Marsala. The name
Parmesan cheese. baccalà (with salt cod). means “pick me up”.






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84  NOR THEAST IT AL Y


Understanding Architecture
in Venice and the Veneto

Trade contact with the East led medieval Venice to develop its own exotic
style – known as Venetian Gothic – blending Byzantine domes and
Islamic minarets with European Gothic pointed arches and quatrefoils.
In the 16th century, Palladio introduced his interpretations of Classical
architecture through a series of churches, public buildings and rural villas
in Venice and the Veneto. The 17th century brought the Baroque style, Andrea Palladio
though its exuberance was tempered by Palladio-influenced restraint. (1508–80)


The Architecture of Venice:
Byzantine to Baroque Onion-shaped cupolas Statues added in
capping the main domes the 15th century
Upper loggia with
copies of the Four
Horses of St Mark
Central portal
modelled on the
Byzantine-style Roman triumphal arch
façade mosaics






The Basilica di San Marco, western Europe’s finest Byzantine church (completed
11th century), was given lavish treatment to make it a dazzling shrine for the relics
of St Mark, the Evangelist, and a fitting symbol of Venetian aspirations (see pp114–17).

The Genius of Palladio
Doric columns supporting
the first floor, Ionic above
Shaded loggias for
escaping the heat
Palazzo Chiericati is a huge
mansion of 1550, its simple style
borrowed from the ancient Romans.
It was once surrounded by water to
reflect the statues of Classical deities
along its roof (see p156).
Arcades linking the wings
Symmetrical to the central block
Villa Barbaro at Maser was façade
one of the villas designed
by Palladio from the 1550s,
when it became fashionable
for rich Venetians to acquire
rural estates. This villa is typical,
combining a working farm,
housed in the side wings,
with the elegant buildings
of a country house (see p153).





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INTRODUCING NOR THEAST IT AL Y  85



Where to See the Basilica di San Marco and the
the Architecture Palazzo Ducale is a must. There are
numerous examples of Palladio’s
A vaporetto trip along the Grand architecture in the Veneto, but the
Canal in Venice (see pp92–5) is a star is the Villa Barbaro (see p153).
splendid way of getting an over- Several of his villas line the Brenta
view of Venetian architecture. Canal (see p164), and the town of
Ca’ d’Oro, Ca’ Rezzonico and Ca’ Vicenza (see pp154–7) is full of his
Pesaro may also be visited, as they buildings, including La Rotonda,
contain museums, and a visit to Typical Venetian Gothic window his famous villa.



Arcading influenced Florid tracery Finials once covered Deep recesses Keystones carved Swags of fruit,
by the Palazzo Ducale inlaid with azure in gold leaf creating play of as helmeted heads ribbons and flowers
light and shade














Ca’ d’Oro, the 15th-century “House of Gold”, The 17th-century Ca’ Pesaro typifies the
reveals Moorish influence in its roof finials Venetian Baroque style – Classical columns
and sinuous pointed arches (see p98). and rich, but subtle ornamentation (see p93).


Istrian marble, chosen to catch
Giant the changing light of the lagoon
composite
columns
Statues and memorials
to patrons of the church
San Giorgio Maggiore, built 1566–1610, is
marvellously sited at the entrance to the Venetian
inner harbour. It broke from the prevailing Gothic
style, introducing the clean simplicity and
harmonious proportions of Classical architecture
to Venice, and more resembles an ancient Roman
temple than a Christian church (see pp124–5).
Arcades linking the wings
to the central block Pediment with coat of arms Sundials at
each end















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86  NOR THEAST IT AL Y


The Dolomites

The Dolomites are the most distinctive and beautiful mountains in Italy.
They were formed of mineralized coral which was laid down beneath the
sea during the Triassic era, and uplifted when the European and African
continental plates dramatically collided 60 million years ago. Unlike
the glacier-eroded saddles and ridges of the main body of the Alps,
the pale rocks here have been carved by the corrosive effects of ice,
sun and rain, sculpting the cliffs, spires and “organ pipes” that we see
today. The eastern and western ranges of the Dolomites have slightly
different characteristics; the eastern section is the more awe-inspiring,
especially the Catinaccio (or Rosengarten) range, which is particularly Onion dome, a common
beautiful, turning rose pink at sunset. local feature

S49
Strada delle Dolomiti
Dobbiaco
One of the most spectacular routes
Rienza
through the Dolomites links Bolzano
(see p176) with Cortina d’Ampezzo TRE CIME DI
(see p165). It follows the lie of the land, S51 LAVAREDO
passing some of the greatest peaks,
and the most majestic landscape. Lago di Misurina
Cortina d’Ampezzo
SASSO LUNGO
S48
TORRI DEL CINQUE
Bolzano VAIOLET Canazei TORRI S51 Pieve di Cadore
MARMOLADA
S241
0 kilometres 10
Adige
S51
0 miles 5
S12
4,000 m
(13,123 ft) Distinctive Peaks of the Dolomites Marmolada 3,343 m
The peaks of the Dolomites include several (10,968 ft)
with distinctive shapes and some of the highest
mountains in the range. Many are easily Sasso Lungo 3,179 m
identifiable and have been individually named. (10,430 ft)
3,000 m
(9,842 ft)
Cinque Torri 2,366 m
(7,762 ft)

2,000 m
(6,562 ft)


Approximate heights



1,000 m
(3,281 ft) The Cinque Torri, or Five Sasso Lungo is a tall peak Marmolada is the highest
Towers, rise from a single easily recognized by its peak in the Dolomite chain.
base between Passo Falzare­ distinctive scar. It is joined A cable car ascends to 3,000 m
go and Cortina d’Ampezzo. to the Sasso Piatto. (9,842 ft) above the glacier.





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INTRODUCING NOR THEAST IT AL Y  87



Nature in the Dolomites
Forests and meadows support a breathtaking
richness of wildlife in the region. Alpine plants,
which flower between June and September,
have evolved their miniature form to survive
the harsh winds.
The Flora


Lago di Misurina is a large and beautiful lake
lying beside the resort of Misurina. The crystal-clear
waters reflect the surrounding mountains, mirror-
ing various peaks such as the distinctive and
dramatic Sorapiss, in shimmering colours. Gentian roots are The orange moun-
used to make a bitter tain lily thrives on
local liqueur. sun-baked slopes.






The pretty burser’s Devil’s claw has
saxifrage grows in distinctive pink
clusters on rocks. flower heads.
The Fauna
Outdoor activities in this area of dramatic
landscapes include skiing in winter, and walking and
rambling along the footpaths, and to picnic sites,
in summer. Chairlifts from the main resorts provide
easy access up into the mountains themselves,
transporting you into some breathtaking scenery.

The ptarmigan changes its plumage from
Torri del Vaiolet Tre Cime di Lavaredo mottled brown in summer to snow white in
2,243 m (7,375 ft) 2,999 m (9,839 ft) winter for effective camouflage. It feeds on
mountain berries and young plant shoots.
The chamois,
a shy mountain
antelope prized
for its soft skin,
is protected in
the national parks,
where hunting
is forbidden.
Roe deer are very common,
as their natural predators –
wolves and lynx – are
decreasing in number. An
appetite for tree saplings
causes problems for
foresters.
The Torri del Vaiolet Tre Cime di Lavaredo,
is part of the beautiful or Drei Zinnen, dominate
Catinaccio range, the valleys north of the
known for its colour. Lago di Misurina.





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NOR THEAST IT AL Y  89

VENICE



Lying in the extreme northeast of Italy, Venice, gateway to
the Orient, became an independent Byzantine province in
the 10th century. Exclusive trading links with the East and
victory in the Crusade of 1204 brought wealth and power,
which were only gradually eroded by European and Turkish
rivals. Today, Venice’s ties are with the local Veneto region
which stretches from the flat river plains to the Dolomites.
Venice is one of the few cities in the the Kingdom of Italy in 1866, so
world that can be truly described as bringing unity to the country for the
unique. It survives against all the odds, first time in its history. Today, Venice has
built on a series of low mudbanks amid found a new role. Her palazzi have
the tidal waters of the Adriatic, and become museums, shops, hotels and
regularly subject to floods. During the apartments, while her convents have
Middle Ages, under the leadership of been turned into centres for art restoration.
successive doges, Venice expanded its Yet little of the essential fabric of Venice
power and influence throughout the has altered in 200 years. The city’s sounds
Med iterranean to Constantinople are still those of footsteps and the cries of
(mod ern Istanbul). The immense wealth boatmen. The only engines are those of
of the city was celebrated in art and barges delivering supplies or water buses
architecture throughout the town. ferrying passengers between stops.
The riches of St Mark’s alone bear The same well-worn streets are still trodden.
witness to Venice’s position as a world More than 20 million visi tors a year
power from the 12th to 14th centuries. succumb to the magic of this improbable
After slowly losing ground to the new place whose “streets are full of water”
states of Europe, however, it fell to and where the glories of the past are
Napoleon in 1797. Finally, Venice joined evident at every turn.


























Tourists relax at cafés along a canal in Burano, Venice
Dusk settles over St Mark’s Basin, Venice



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90  NOR THEAST IT AL Y

Exploring Venice

CAMPO D.
Venice is divided into six ancient administrative districts or CAMPO D.
S ALVISE
S ALVISE
sestieri: Cannaregio, Castello, San Marco, Dorsoduro, San Polo CAMPIELLO DELLE CAMPIELLO
CAMPIELLO
CAMPIELLO DELLE
PIAVE PIAVE
COOPERATIVE
COOPERATIVE
and Santa Croce. You can walk to most places in Venice itself,
and take a ride on a waterbus to any of the islands. The Venezia CAMPO
CAMPO
GHETTO
Unica Card (see p634) covers all transport as well as admission GHETTO
NUOVO
NUOVO
CAMPO
CAMPO CANNAREGIO
SANSAN
to most museums, such as Ca’ Rezzonico, the Palazzo Ducale GIOBBE CANNAREGIO
GIOBBE
and Museo Correr. CAMPO SAN
CAMPO SAN
LEONARDO
LEONARDO
CAMPO SAN
CAMPO SAN
CAMPO DEI
CAMPO
MARCUOLA
CAMPO MARCUOLA CAMPO DEI
GESUITI
SANSAN GESUITI
GEREMIA
GEREMIA
Gran
Sights at a Glance Canal al Grande de CAMPO CAMPIELLO
CAMPIELLO
D. PIETA
CAMPO
Can
D. PIETA
S FELICE
S FELICE
Churches s Campanile Santa Lucia degli Scalzi CAMPO SAN Canal CAMPIELLO
Ponte Ponte
Santa Lucia
CAMPO SAN
CAMPIELLO
degli Scalzi
SIMEON
Canal
WIDMAN
SIMEON
CAMPO DEI
PROFETA
1 Madonna dell’Orto h Statue of Colleoni PROFETA CAMPO CAMPO SAN SANTA CAMPO DEI WIDMAN
SANTI SANTI
APOSTOLI
CAMPO SAN SANTA
CAMPO
APOSTOLI
CAMPO S
NAZARIO
CAMPO S
3 San Giovanni Grisostomo l Scuola di San Giorgio degli NAZARIO GIACOMO CROCE Grande MARIA NOVA
GIACOMO
MARIA NOVA
CROCE
SAURO
SAURO
DELL’ORIO
DELL’ORIO
4 Santa Maria dei Miracoli Schiavoni
Grande
6 San Giacomo dell’Orio x Arsenale SANT’AGOSTIN Ponte Ponte CAMPO
CAMPO D.
CAMPO D.
CAMPO
SANT’AGOSTIN
SANSAN
di Rialto
CAMPO S
7 San Polo Museums and Galleries di Rialto CAMPO SAN MARINA CAMPO S CAMPO D.
MARINA
GIUSTINA
GIUSTINA
SAN
CAMPO SAN
SAN
CAMPO D.
CAMPO D.
CAMPO
CAMPO
8 Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari CAMPO D. POLO CAMPO CAMPO BARTOLOMEO CAMPO S MARIA CELESTIA
BARTOLOMEO
CAMPO
CELESTIA
TOLENTINI
TOLENTINI
S MARIA
POLO
CAMPO
SANSAN
CAMPO
SANSAN
CAMPO
FORMOSA
SAN LIO
CAMPO
CAMPO
pp102–3 2 Ca’ d’Oro POLO POLO SILVESTRO SAN LIO FORMOSA CAMPO S TERNITA
SILVESTRO
SANSAN
S TERNITA
LORENZO
0 San Rocco 9 Scuola Grande di San Rocco CAMPO Grande e CASTELLO LORENZO
Grand
CASTELLO
CAMPO
D. FRARI
CORTE
CAMPIELLO
q San Pantalon pp104–5 CAMPIELLO D. FRARI Canal al TEATRO CORTE D. GUERRA CAMPO SAN CAMPIELLO
CAMPO
CAMPIELLO
CAMPO
TEATRO
Can
DO POZZI
MOSCA
DO POZZI
D. GUERRA
MOSCA
CAMPO SAN
CAMPO SAN
e San Nicolò dei Mendicoli w Ca’ Rezzonico CAMPO SAN CAMPO CAMPO CAMPO SAN
ZACCARIA
TOMA TOMA
ZACCARIA
CAMPO
CAMPO
SANSAN
MANIN
CAMPO SAN
CAMPO
CAMPO
r San Sebastiano t Accademia pp110–11 CORTE CORTE CAMPO SAN DEL TEATRO BENETO MANIN CAMPO SAN BANDIERA
CAMPIELLO
BENETO
CAMPIELLO
PROVOLO
PROVOLO
PANTALON
BANDIERA
PANTALON
DEL TEATRO
E MORO
CAMPO
CAMPO
u Santa Maria della Salute y Peggy Guggenheim Collection CONTARINI CAMPO SAN MARCO PIAZZA E MORO ARSENALE
CONTARINI
ARSENALE
CAMPO
PIAZZA
o Basilica di San Marco pp114–17 i Punta della Dogana MARGHERITA SAN MARCO S. MARCO
SANTA
S. MARCO
SANTA
MARGHERITA
f Santo Stefano d Museo Correr CAMPO S SAN MOISE CAMPO SAN
CAMPO
CAMPO
CAMPO S
CAMPO SAN
SAN MOISE
SAMUELE
CAMPO
g Santi Giovanni e Paolo Lagoon CAMPO SAMUELE CAMPO CAMPO BIAGIO
BIAGIO
CAMPO
CAMPO
SANTO
SANTO
SANSAN
S BARNABA
STEFANO
j Santa Maria Formosa v Murano CAMPO CAMPO S BARNABA STEFANO MAURIZIO
CAMPO
MAURIZIO
CAMPO
SQUERO
SQUERO
ANGELO
ANGELO
k San Zaccaria b Burano RAFFAELE
RAFFAELE
Ponte Ponte
DORSODURO
CAMPO D.
z San Giovanni in Bragora n Torcello pp126–7 DORSODURO CAMPO D. dell'Accademia
dell'Accademia
CARITA
CARITA
c San Giorgio Maggiore
CAMPO
CAMPO
SAN VIO
SAN VIO
Buildings and Monuments CAMPO
CAMPO
SANT'AGNESE
5 Rialto SANT'AGNESE
p Palazzo Ducale pp118–20
a Torre dell’Orologio CAMPO
Canale dei Lavraneri
CAMPO
NANI E
NANI E
BARBARO
CAMPO C a n a l e d ell a G i u d e c c a c c a BARBARO Canale della Grazia
CAMPO
C a n a l e d ell a G i u d e
DELLA DELLA
CHIESA
CHIESA Canale dei Lavraneri
CAMPIELLO
0 metres 500 CAMPIELLO
PRIULI PRIULI
GIUDECCA
0 yards 500 GIUDECCA SAN COSMO GIUDECCA
GIUDECCA
CAMPO
Canale della Grazia
CAMPO
SAN COSMO
CAMPO DEL
CAMPO DEL
REDENTORE
REDENTORE
CAMPAZZO
CAMPAZZO
DI DENTRO
DI DENTRO
Santa Maria della Salute, at the mouth of the Grand Canal
For keys to symbols see back flap
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venice  91




CAMPO D.
CAMPO D.
S ALVISE
S ALVISE
CAMPIELLO
CAMPIELLO DELLE
CAMPIELLO DELLE CAMPIELLO
PIAVE PIAVE
COOPERATIVE
COOPERATIVE
CAMPO
CAMPO
GHETTO
GHETTO
NUOVO
CAMPO
CAMPO NUOVO
CANNAREGIO
SANSAN CANNAREGIO
GIOBBE
GIOBBE
CAMPO SAN
CAMPO SAN
LEONARDO A gondola ride along the Grand Canal
LEONARDO
CAMPO SAN
CAMPO SAN
CAMPO DEI
CAMPO
MARCUOLA
CAMPO MARCUOLA CAMPO DEI
GESUITI
SANSAN GESUITI
GEREMIA
GEREMIA
Gran
Grande de CAMPIELLO
CAMPIELLO
Canal al S FELICE D. PIETA
D. PIETA
CAMPO
Can
CAMPO
S FELICE
Santa Lucia
Santa Lucia Ponte Ponte CAMPO SAN Canal CAMPIELLO
CAMPO SAN
CAMPIELLO
SIMEON
degli Scalzi
degli Scalzi SIMEON CAMPO DEI WIDMAN
WIDMAN
Canal
PROFETA
PROFETA CAMPO DEI
SANTI SANTI
APOSTOLI
CAMPO CAMPO SAN SANTA APOSTOLI
CAMPO
CAMPO SAN SANTA
CAMPO S
NAZARIO
NAZARIO GIACOMO CAMPO S
MARIA NOVA
SAURO GIACOMO MARIA NOVA
SAURO
CROCE
DELL’ORIO
DELL’ORIO CROCE Grande
Grande
CAMPO D.
CAMPO D. CAMPO
SANT’AGOSTIN
SANT’AGOSTIN Ponte Ponte CAMPO
SANSAN
di Rialto
CAMPO S
di Rialto MARINA CAMPO S
MARINA
GIUSTINA
SAN
CAMPO SAN
CAMPO D.
CAMPO D. SAN CAMPO CAMPO SAN CAMPO GIUSTINA CAMPO D.
CAMPO D.
CAMPO
BARTOLOMEO
CELESTIA
CAMPO
TOLENTINI
TOLENTINI CAMPO BARTOLOMEO S MARIA CELESTIA
CAMPO
POLO
S MARIA
POLO POLO POLO SILVESTRO CAMPO FORMOSA CAMPO S TERNITA
SANSAN
CAMPO
SANSAN
CAMPO
FORMOSA
SAN LIO
CAMPO
CAMPO
SAN LIO
SILVESTRO
S TERNITA
SANSAN
LORENZO
Grande e LORENZO
Grand
CASTELLO
CAMPO CORTE CASTELLO
CAMPO
CORTE
D. FRARI
CAMPIELLO
CAMPO
CAMPIELLO
CAMPIELLO D. FRARI Canal al TEATRO CAMPO CAMPIELLO
TEATRO
DO POZZI
MOSCA
D. GUERRA
MOSCA Can D. GUERRA CAMPO SAN DO POZZI
CAMPO SAN CAMPO SAN
CAMPO SAN
TOMA TOMA CAMPO CAMPO ZACCARIA
ZACCARIA
CAMPO
CAMPO
SANSAN
CAMPO SAN
CAMPO SAN CAMPIELLO BENETO MANIN MANIN CAMPO SAN CAMPO
CAMPO
CAMPO SAN
BENETO
CAMPIELLO
PROVOLO
PROVOLO
PANTALON
BANDIERA
DEL TEATRO
CORTE CORTE PANTALON DEL TEATRO BANDIERA CAMPO
E MORO
E MORO
CAMPO
CONTARINI
ARSENALE
CONTARINI ARSENALE
SAN MARCO
CAMPO SAN MARCO PIAZZA
CAMPO
PIAZZA
SANTA
S. MARCO
SANTA S. MARCO
MARGHERITA
MARGHERITA
CAMPO
CAMPO
CAMPO S
CAMPO S SAN MOISE CAMPO SAN
SAN MOISE
CAMPO SAN
SAMUELE
SAMUELE CAMPO BIAGIO BIAGIO
CAMPO
CAMPO
CAMPO
SANTO
CAMPO SANTO CAMPO
S BARNABA STEFANO SANSAN
S BARNABA
CAMPO
MAURIZIO
CAMPO STEFANO MAURIZIO
CAMPO
CAMPO SQUERO
SQUERO
ANGELO
ANGELO
RAFFAELE
RAFFAELE
Ponte Ponte
DORSODURO CAMPO D. dell'Accademia
DORSODURO
CAMPO D.
dell'Accademia
CARITA
CARITA
CAMPO
CAMPO
SAN VIO
SAN VIO
CAMPO
CAMPO
SANT'AGNESE
SANT'AGNESE
Canale dei Lavraneri
Canale dei Lavraneri
CAMPO
CAMPO
NANI E
NANI E
BARBARO
CAMPO C a n a l e d ell a G i u d e c c a c c a BARBARO Canale della Grazia
CAMPO
C a n a l e d ell a G i u d e
DELLA DELLA
CHIESA
CHIESA CAMPIELLO GIUDECCA
CAMPIELLO
PRIULI PRIULI
GIUDECCA
GIUDECCA
GIUDECCA
CAMPO
Canale della Grazia
CAMPO
SAN COSMO
SAN COSMO
CAMPO DEL
CAMPO DEL
REDENTORE
REDENTORE
CAMPAZZO
CAMPAZZO The Lagoon
DI DENTRO
DI DENTRO
Marco Polo
S14
Canale Osellino
S13
Mestre
V e n e t a
Getting Around
The only road into Venice is the S11 from
Mestre, which carries you over the causeway S11
to the Tronchetto and Piazzale Roma, n a
where there are car parks and bus stops. g u VENICE
Rail travellers arrive at Santa Lucia station L a
on the Grand Canal. In the city, public
transport is by vaporetto, or waterbus – the
No.1 is best for sightseeing, as it travels the
length of the Grand Canal (see pp140–41).
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92  NOR THEAST IT AL Y

The Grand Canal: Santa Lucia to the Rialto

The best way to view the Grand Canal as it
winds through the heart of the city is from
a vaporetto, or waterbus. Two lines travel the
length of the canal (see p635). The palaces
lining the waterway were built over a span of
five centuries and present a panor amic survey
of the city’s history, almost all bearing the
name of some once-great Venetian family.
San Marcuola
San Geremia houses the relics The church was rebuilt in the
of St Lucy, once kept in the 18th century, but the planned
church of Santa Lucia where the new façade overlooking the
railway station now stands. canal was never completed.

Palazzo Labia Canale di Palazzo
Between 1745 and 1750, Cannaregio Corner-Contarini
Giambattista Tiepolo
decorated the ball room
with scenes from the
life of Cleopatra.


San Marcuola

Riva di Biasio




Ferrovia


Ponte degli
Scalzi
Fondaco dei Turchi
A warehouse for Turkish
traders in the 17th–19th
centuries, this is now the
Natural History Museum.

The Gondolas of Venice
The gondola has been a part of Venice since the
11th century. With its slim hull and flat underside,
the craft is perfectly adapted to negotiating
narrow, shallow canals. There is a slight leftward
curve to the prow, which counteracts the force
of the oar, preventing the gondola from going
round in circles.
In 1562 it was decreed that all gondolas should
be black, to stop people making an ostentatious
show of their wealth. For special occasions they are
decorated with flowers. Today, gondola rides are
San Simeone Piccolo expensive and usually taken by tourists (see p635).
This 18th-century domed However, traghetti (gondola ferries) are a cheap,
church is based on the convenient way of crossing the Grand Canal. Gondolas tied up by steps
Pantheon in Rome.




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VENICE  93


Ca’ d’Oro
The delicate Gothic tracery
of the façade makes this a striking
landmark. Its art collection (see
p98) includes Bernini’s model
for a fountain (c.1648).


Locator Map
See Venice Street Finder maps
1, 2, 3


Palazzo Vendramin Calergi
This is one of the finest early
Renaissance palaces in Venice.
The German composer Richard
Wagner (left) died here in 1883.



The Pescheria has been
the site of a busy fish
market for six centuries.
Palazzo Sagredo
Graceful Veneto-Byzantine and
San Marcuola Gothic arches are both featured
on the waterfront façade.

San Stae Palazzo Michiel dalle
Colonne takes its name from
its distinctive colonnade.
The Rialto Bridge
(see p101) spans the
canal in the commercial
heart of the city.



Ca’ d’Oro
San Stae
The façade of this Baroque
church is richly adorned
with statues. It regularly Rialto Mercato
hosts exhibitions.







Ca’ Pesaro
The huge, stately Baroque palace
today houses a gallery of modern
art and the Oriental Museum.

Rialto






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The Grand Canal: the Rialto to San Marco

After passing the Rialto, the canal Palazzo Mocenigo
doubles back on itself along a Lord Byron stayed in
stretch known as La Volta (the this huge 18th-century
palace in 1818.
bend). It then widens out and the
views become more spectacular
approaching San Marco. Façades
may have faded and foundations
battered with the tides, yet the
canal remains, in the words of the
French ambassador in 1495, “the
most beautiful street in the world”.
Sant’ Angelo
San Tomà

Palazzo Garzoni
is a renovated
Gothic palace.





Ca’ Rezzonico
Now a museum of 18th-century San
Venice (see p107), the palace was Samuele
the last home of the poet Robert
Browning, seen here with his son Pen.
Palazzo Grassi
Ca’ Rezzonico This elegant palazzo dates from
the 1730s. Bought by French tycoon
François-Henri Pinault in 2005,
it is now used for art exhibitions.

Ponte dell’Accademia


Accademia
Palazzo Capello Malipiero
The palace was rebuilt in 1622.
Beside it stands the 12th-century
campanile of San Samuele.





Accademia Palazzo Barbaro
The world’s greatest Novelist Henry James
collection of Venetian wrote The Aspern
paintings is housed here Papers here in 1888.
in the former Scuola della
Carità (see pp110–11), which
has a Baroque façade by
Giorgio Massari.






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VENICE  95
Rialto





San Silvestro

The Riva del Vin is the
quay where wine (vin) used Locator Map
to be unloaded. It is one
of the few spots where you See Venice Street Finder
maps 6, 7
can sit and relax on the
banks of the Grand Canal.
Palazzo Barzizza, rebuilt in
the 17th century, preserves its
early 13th-century façade.

Peggy
Guggenheim
Collection
A one-storey
palazzo houses
Guggenheim’s
great modern
art collection
(see pp108–9).





Santa Maria della Salute
The vast weight of this Baroque church
is supported by over one million timber
piles (see p109).

Palazzo Gritti-Pisani
The former home of the Gritti family
is now the luxury Gritti Palace
hotel (see p563).
San Marco
Vallaresso

Santa Maria Salute
del Giglio
Harry’s Bar,
founded in
1931 by
Giuseppe
Cipriani, is
famous for
its cocktails.

The Punta della Dogana customs
Palazzo Dario house, built in the 17th century,
Beautiful coloured marbles now contains the François Pinault
give the 1487 palace a highly Foundation of contemporary art.
individual façade. According to It is crowned by a golden globe and
legend, the building is cursed. a weather vane (see p109).
Gondolas moored along the Grand Canal at sunrise



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98 І NOR THEAST IT AL Y


dramatic of his works are the gold leaf, vermilion and
towering masterpieces that ultramarine. Over the years
decorate the chancel (1562–4). the palace was extensively
On the right wall is the Last remodelled, and by the
Judgment, whose 18th century was in a state
turbulent content of semi-dereliction. In 1846 it
caused John Ruskin’s was bought by the Russian
wife, Effie, to flee the Prince Troubetzkoy for the
church in horror. In The famous ballerina Marie Taglioni.
Adoration of the Golden Under her direction the palace
Calf on the left wall, the suffered barbaric restoration,
figure carrying the calf, losing, among other things, its
fourth from the left, is staircase and much of its
believed to be a original stonework. It was finally
portrait of the artist. rescued by Baron Giorgio
Inside the chapel of Franchetti, a wealthy patron of
San Mauro, off the the arts, who bequeathed both
Madonna dell’Orto, with 15th-century façade statues end of the right nave, the building and his private art
of St Christopher and the Apostles stands a statue of the collection to the State in 1915.
Madonna by Giovanni Pride of place on the first of
1 Madonna de’ Santi. It was restored by the the gallery’s two floors goes to
dell’Orto Venice in Peril fund, and inspired Andrea Mantegna’s St Sebastian
the rededication of the church. (1506), the artist’s last work,
Campo Madonna dell’Orto. Map 2 F2. which occupies a special alcove
Tel 041 719933. 4 Madonna of its own. Elsewhere, the floor’s
dell’Orto. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 2 Ca’ d’Oro main exhibits are ranged around
noon–5pm Sun & pub hols. the portego (gallery). This is
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & ^ Calle Ca’ d’Oro. Map 3 A4. Tel 041 520 largely dominated by the vivid
∑ madonnadellorto.org 03 45. 4 Ca’ d’Oro. Open 8:15am–
2pm Mon, 8:15am–7:15pm Tue–Sun 15th-century Double Portrait
This lovely Gothic church, (last adm: 6:45pm). Closed 1 Jan, 1 (c.1493) by the sculptor Tullio
founded in the mid-14th century, May, 25 Dec. & 9 = 7 partial. Lombardo; Sansovino’s lunette
was dedicated to St Christopher, ^∑ cadoro.org of the Madonna and Child
patron saint of travellers, to (c.1530); and several bronze
protect the boatmen who ferried In 1420 Marino reliefs by the Paduan
passengers to the islands in the Contarini, a Andrea Briosco, “Il
northern lagoon. A 15th-century wealthy patrician, Riccio” (1470–1532).
statue of the saint, restored commissioned the Rooms leading off
by the Venice in Peril fund, building of what the portego to the
stands above the main portal. he hoped would right contain
The dedication was changed be the city’s most numerous bronzes
and the church reconstructed magnificent palace and medallions,
in the early 15th century, (see p85). The Tullio Lombardo’s with some examples
after the discovery, in a nearby building’s intricate Double Portrait by Pisanello and
vegetable garden (orto), of a carving was entrus- Gentile Bellini.
statue of the Virgin Mary said ted to a team of Venetian and Paintings here also include the
to have miraculous powers. Lombard craftsmen, while the famous Madonna of the Beautiful
The interior, faced almost façade was adorned with the Eyes, attributed to Giovanni
entirely in brick, is large and most elaborate and expensive Bellini, a Madonna and Child,
uncluttered. On the right is a decorative finishes, including attributed to Alvise Vivarini (both
magnificent painting by Cima late 15th century),
da Conegliano, St John the and Carpaccio’s
Baptist and Other Saints (c.1493). Annunciation and
The vacant space in the chapel Death of the Virgin
opposite belongs to Giovanni (both c.1504). A room
Bellini’s Madonna with Child to the left of the
(c.1478), stolen in 1993 for portego contains non-
the third time. Venetian paintings,
The church’s greatest notably a Flagellation
remaining treasures are the by Luca Signorelli
works of art by Tintoretto, who (c.1480). A lovely
was a parishioner of the church. staircase leads to the
His tomb lies with that of his second floor, which
children, in the chapel to the The magnificent Gothic façade of the Ca’ d’Oro, opens with a room
right of the chancel. The most or House of Gold hung with tapestries.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


098-099_EW_Italy.indd 98 4/4/17 5:32 PM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.2)
Date 12th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm