(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

SOUTHERN IT AL Y  549

SARDINIA


In his travelogue Sea and Sardinia, D H Lawrence wrote
that Sardinia was “left outside of time and history”. Indeed,
the march of time has been slow here, and traditions from
ancient Europe have survived – the legacy of invasion by
Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Byzantines,
Spaniards and Savoyards.

These traditions are displayed in Sardinia’s south of Sassari. The nuraghi were built
many festivals – some soberly Christian, by a people whose origins constitute
others with pagan roots. Several different one of the Mediterranean’s great
dialects and languages are spoken mysteries. In Cagliari, the cap ital of
in Sardinia. Catalan can be heard in Sardinia, there is a museum with an
Alghero, and on the island of San Pietro excellent archaeological collection that
there is a Ligurian dialect. In the south, offers insight into this enigmatic people.
the traditional influences are Spanish, Sassari, Oristano, Alghero and Olbia are
while conservative native strains of all centres of areas marked by their
people and language survive in the individuality. Some remarkable Pisan-
Gennargentu mountains. Peopled by Romanesque churches are located around
shepherds in isolated communities, this Sassari and here, too, dialects reveal close
region is so impenetrable that invaders links with the languages of Tuscany. Olbia
have never bothered it. is a boom town made rich by tourism and
Of particular interest are the prehistoric the proximity of the jet-setting Costa
nuraghi castles, villages, temples and Smeralda. Sober Nuoro with its province in
tombs dotted around the countryside – the shadow of the Gennargentu mountains,
most notably around Barumini, north by contrast, has little in common with the
of Cagliari, and in the Valle dei Nuraghi, Sardinia of tourist brochures.



























Relaxing during the day in the tiny resort of Carloforte on the Isola di San Pietro, next to Sant’Antioco
The gorgeous turquoise waters of Costa Paradiso, Sardinia



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550  SOUTHERN IT AL Y

Exploring Sardinia Santa Teresa Gallura Isola
Capo Testa Maddalena Isola Caprera
This island, called Sardegna in Italian, is characterized Palau La Maddalena
by an interior of dramatic, rolling uplands covered in Isola Asinara Porto Cervo COSTA
macchia – grassland mingled with myrtle, wild thyme, la Reale Aglientu Cannigione SMERALDA
prickly pears and dwarf oaks – and a coastline of Fornelli Luogosanto San Pantaleo
beguiling, translucent sea, isolated coves, long sandy Golfo G a l l u r a Sant'Antonio
beaches and caves. The Gennargentu mountains, Stintino dell' Asinara Luras Aranci di Olbia
Golfo
Golfo
with the highest peak at 1,834 m (6,017 ft), shield Pausania Olbia Punta Timone
Tempio
a nearly impenetrable area of rural villages. In the Porto Torres Monte Limbara Porto S. Paolo
northeast, mountains fall away dramatically to the Sorso Berchidda 1362m Monti Loiri Capo Coda Cavallo
Costa Smeralda, Sardinia’s most exclusive coastal Palmadula La Nurra Osilo Martis Lago del Padru San Teodoro
area. Further south, the shoreline around the Golfo di Capo dell' SASSARI Coghinas Oschiri
Orosei is fairly unspoiled. Around Oristano in the west Argentiera Ploaghe Monte di Alà Budoni
Punta la Batteria
the land is flat, leading to the plain of Campidano, Olmedo Mannu Ardara Monte Lerno Piras Posada
where the island’s corn, fruit and vegetables grow. Grotta di Ittiri Pattada 1094m
Nettuno
ALGHERO Ozieri Mamone Siniscola
Torralba Osidda Capo
Comino
Valle dei Tirso Bitti Monte Albo
Monteleone Rocca Doria Nuraghe Monte Rasu Monti Remule
1259m Cala
G o c e a n o
Montresta Bonorva Bono Orune Irgoli Liberotto
Capo Marargiu Orosei
BOSA Orotelli NUORO Dorgali
Bosa Marina Silanus Oliena CALA GONONE
Macomer Golfo
Punta Corrasi di Orosei
M
Cuglieri Sedilo Orgosolo 1463m O
Gavoi Grotto del
A
Monte Ferru Lago Omodeo Bue Marino N
1050m Ghilarza Fonni E
R
SARDEGNA Urzulei


Capo Mannu Talana Baunei R
Sorgono

Riola Sardo Fordongianus Monti Santa Maria R
D
Punta La Marmora Navarrese I
del
B
Stagno di Cabras Solarussa Samugheo a Gennargentu T
1834m
I

r
ORISTANO Simaxis b Arbatax

Asuni a Seulo Lanusei

Santa Giusta Laconi g Seui
A typical scene of clothes hanging out to dry in Alghero Usellus i a Ussassai Bari Sardo
S
Arborea Nurallaó
A
Capo della Ales Monte S. Vittoria
R
Sights at a Glance D Frasca Terralba Uras Turri Nurri 1212m R
1 Costa Smeralda E Perdasdefogu A
2 Sassari Pardu Atzei C Sardara Mandas Melisenda M
a Villamar
3 Alghero N m
G
4 Bosa Guspini p i San Basilio
5 Nuoro A d Serrenti San Nicolò Gerrei

6 Cala Gonone Capo Pecora Villacidro a n o Samassi
7 Oristano Buggerru Monte Linas Sant'Andrea Frius Villaputzu
1236m
8 Sant’Antioco Muravera
9 Cagliari Masua Vallermosa Mannu San Sperate S a r r a b u s San Priamo
Burcei
Iglesias Sinnai Capo Ferrato
Siliqua
Getting Around Gonnesa Quartu Sant'Elena
Ferries from a wide range of ports on the Italian mainland Portoscuso Narcao CAGLIARI
dock at Cagliari, Olbia and Porto Torres. International and Carbonia Maddalena Geremeas
Isola di
domestic flights use the airports at Cagliari, Olbia and San Pietro Calasetta Monte Caravius Spiaggia Golfo Villasimius
1116m
Alghero. The island is neatly cut by the S131. It skirts the Santadi di Cagliari
Gennargentu mountains, which are accessible only by SANT'ANTIOCO Porto Botte Sarroch
tortuously winding passes. Branches of the S131 reach Isola di Golfo Pula
di
Olbia and Nuoro. Express bus services connect the major Sant'Antioco Palmas Capo di Pula
cities, while the smaller towns are linked by slow and Teulada
infrequent public transport.
Capo Teulada
For additional map symbols see back flap
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SARDINIA  551


Santa Teresa Gallura Isola
Capo Testa Maddalena Isola Caprera
Palau La Maddalena
Porto Cervo COSTA
Isola Asinara
Aglientu Cannigione SMERALDA
la Reale
Luogosanto
Fornelli San Pantaleo
Golfo G a l l u r a Sant'Antonio
Golfo
Golfo
Stintino dell' Asinara Luras Aranci di Olbia
Tempio Olbia
Pausania Punta Timone
Porto Torres Monte Limbara Porto S. Paolo
1362m Loiri Capo Coda Cavallo
Sorso
La Nurra Osilo Lago del
Palmadula Martis Berchidda Monti Padru San Teodoro
Capo dell' SASSARI Coghinas Oschiri
Argentiera Ploaghe Monte di Alà Budoni
Olmedo Piras Punta la Batteria
Monte Lerno Posada
Mannu Ardara
Grotta di Pattada 1094m
Nettuno Ittiri Siniscola
ALGHERO Ozieri Mamone
Torralba Osidda Capo
Comino
Valle dei Tirso Bitti Monte Albo
Monteleone Rocca Doria Nuraghe Monte Rasu Monti Remule
1259m Cala
G o c e a n o
Montresta Bonorva Bono Orune Irgoli Liberotto Waves lapping at the rocks on Isola di San Pietro,
Capo Marargiu Orosei northwest of Sant’Antioco
BOSA Orotelli NUORO Dorgali
Bosa Marina Silanus Oliena CALA GONONE
Macomer Golfo
Punta Corrasi di Orosei
M
Cuglieri Sedilo Orgosolo 1463m O
Gavoi Grotto del Key
A
Monte Ferru Lago Omodeo Bue Marino N
1050m Ghilarza Fonni E Major road
R
SARDEGNA Urzulei


Capo Mannu Talana Baunei R Secondary road
Sorgono

Riola Sardo Fordongianus Monti Santa Maria R Minor road
Punta La Marmora Navarrese I Scenic route
D
del
B
1834m
Stagno di Cabras Solarussa Samugheo a Gennargentu T
I

r Main railway
ORISTANO Simaxis b Arbatax

Asuni a Seulo Lanusei Minor railway

Santa Giusta Laconi g Seui Summit
S
Usellus i a Ussassai Bari Sardo
Arborea Nurallaó
A
Capo della Ales Monte S. Vittoria
Frasca 1212m R
R
Terralba Uras Turri Nurri
Perdasdefogu A
D
Pardu Atzei C Mandas Melisenda M
E
Sardara
Villamar
a 0 kilometres 50
G
m
0 miles 25
p
N
Guspini i San Basilio
d
A
Serrenti San Nicolò Gerrei

Capo Pecora Villacidro a n o Samassi
Monte Linas Sant'Andrea Frius Villaputzu
Buggerru 1236m Muravera
Masua Vallermosa Mannu San Sperate S a r r a b u s San Priamo
Burcei
Iglesias Sinnai Capo Ferrato
Siliqua
Gonnesa
Quartu Sant'Elena
Portoscuso CAGLIARI
Narcao Geremeas
Carbonia
Isola di Monte Caravius Maddalena
San Pietro Calasetta 1116m Spiaggia Golfo Villasimius
di Cagliari
SANT'ANTIOCO Santadi Sarroch
Porto Botte
Isola di Golfo Pula
Sant'Antioco di
Palmas Capo di Pula
Teulada
Capo Teulada Southernmost reach of the Gennargentu Mountains
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552  SOUTHERN IT AL Y


3 Alghero
Sassari. * 41,000. k V @
g n Lungomare Dante 1
(079 97 90 54). ( Wed.
∑ comune.alghero.ss.it
Founded on a peninsula facing
the Bay of Alghero early in the
12th century, and taken from
the Genoese Dorias by the
Aragonese in 1353, Alghero
was peopled by settlers from
Barcelona and Valencia. Its
original occupants – Ligurians
and Sardinians – were expelled
The extravagantly beautiful, macchia-scented Costa Smeralda with such thoroughness that
today the Catalan language and
1 Costa Smeralda for being the site of Sardinia’s culture is enjoying a revival and
first university. There is a the look of old Alghero is
Sassari. V g Olbia. @ Porto Cervo.
n AAST La Maddalena, Cava Civetta raucous, tight, church-filled consistently Spanish.
(0789 73 63 21); AAST Palau, Via medieval quarter around Filled with labyrinthine alleys
Nazionale 94 (0789 70 95 70). the Duomo (11th and cobbled streets, the lively
∑ destinationcostasmeralda.com century, with later, port of old Alghero is flanked
mostly Baroque, by battlemented walls and
Stretching from the Golfo di additions). To the defensive towers on all but the
Cugnana to the Golfo di north is the huge landward section. Facing the
Arzachena, the Costa Smeralda Fonte Rosello, Giardino Pubblico is the massive
was developed by a consor- a late Renaissance 16th-century Torre di Porta
tium of magnates in the 1950s. fountain. The Museo Terra, also known as
One of the world’s most opulent Archeologico the Jewish Tower
holiday resorts, it is kept Nazionale “GA after its builders.
immaculate by strict controls. Sanna” is a good Around the periphery
In Porto Cervo, the main starting point for of the old town
town, boutiques jostle with investigating are more towers,
nightclubs, fine restaurants and the region’s including Torre
luxury hotels. It caters for the nuraghic history. dell’Espero Reial and
seriously rich – billionaires, Torre San Giacomo
crowned heads and pop stars. Environs Façade of Santissima on Lungomare
To the southeast Trinità di Saccargia Colombo, and Torre
Environs along the S131 is della Maddalena
Head north to rural Baia the Pisan-Romanesque church on Piazza Porta Terra.
Sardinia and Cannigione. of Santissima Trinità di The 16th-century Duomo at
From Palau ferries leave for La Saccargia (1116), with the only the bottom of Via Umberto is
Maddalena and Isola Caprera, extant 13th-century fresco cycle predominantly Catalan-Gothic
the home of Garibaldi and the in Sardinia. Further on is the with an Aragonese portal.
Museo Nazionale Garibaldino. 12th-century church of San Off Via Carlo Alberto, San
Michele di
E Museo Nazionale Garibaldino Salvenero,
Frazione Caprera, La Maddalena. and at Ardara
Tel 0789 72 71 62. Open 9am–8pm the basalt-built
Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. Romanesque
& 7 ∑ compendiogaribaldino.it Santa Maria
del Regno, or
“Black Cathedral”.
2 Sassari
* 130,000. k V @ n Viale E Museo
Caprera 36 (079 27 99 54). ( Mon. Archeologico
∑ www.provincia.sassari.it Nazionale “GA
Sanna”
Founded by Genoese and Pisan Via Roma 64.
merchants early in the 13th Tel 079 27 22 03.
century, Sassari is known for its Open 9am–8pm
spectacular Cavalcata Sarda Tue–Sun (to 2pm
festival on Ascension Day, and Sun). & 7 Typical houses in Alghero
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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SARDINIA  553


Nuraghi in Sardinia
The dominant feature of Sardinia
is the 7,000 or so nuraghi dotted
around the island. Dating from
1800 to 300 BC, these strange,
truncated cone structures were
built without any bonding from
huge basalt blocks taken from
extinct volcanoes. To this day, little
is known about the identity of the
nuraghic people. They must have
been well organized and possessed
remarkable engineering skills,
judging by their buildings, but The individual nuraghi are
The waterfront at Bosa appear to have left no written fairly small. A few of these
word. The mystery of these structures were fortresses,
Francesco (14th century) has a enigmatic people has intrigued equipped with wells and
pretty cloister and octagonal Sardinians for years. other defensive features.
campanile towering over
Alghero, and Baroque San
Michele has a bright tiled
dome. In Via Principe Umberto
is the Casa Doria, the house
where the pre-Hispanic rulers
of Alghero lived. It has a
beautiful Renaissance portal
and Gothic-arched window.
Environs
Take a boat or car trip (the latter
involves much climbing down)
to the spectacular Grotta di
Nettuno, a deep natural cave
round the point of Capo Caccia, Su Nuraxi at Barumini (above), Serra Orrios,
or the nearby Grotta Verde near Dorgali, and Santu Antine at Torralba
are among the most important nuraghi
complexes. Houses, temples, tombs, and
4 Bosa even a theatre, have been identified.
Nuoro. * 8,500. V @ n Pro Loco,
Via Azuni 5 (0785 37 70 43). ( Tue.
Bosa is a small, picturesque
seaside town at the mouth of
Sardinia’s only navigable river, Sassari
the Temo. The historic Sa
Costa district struggles up Nuoro
the side of a low hill capped
by the Castello di Serravalle, SARDINIA
built in 1122 by the Oristano
Malaspina family. The narrow
passages and alleys here have
changed little since the Middle
Ages. By the Temo are Sas
Conzas – the former dyers’ Cagliari
houses and workshops.
Languishing on the riverside,
the cosmopolitan Sa Piatta This bronze figure of a Key
district houses the Aragonese- hero with four eyes and
Gothic Duomo (15th century) four arms is among the Nuraghic sites
and Romanesque San Pietro many objects and statues
Extramuros (11th century), discovered on nuragic 0 kilometres 100
with a Gothic façade added sites and associated with 0 miles 50
by Cistercian monks in the the Nuragic people.
13th century.




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554  SOUTHERN IT AL Y


who have never experienced Cala Sisine. The famous Grotta
the hand of any overlord, del Bue Marino, adorned with
so impenetrable are the weird rock formations, can only
Gennargentu mountains. be reached by boat.
This region was known to the
Romans as Barbaria, an area Environs
they were never able to sub- To the south, the villages of
due. Traces of the traditional Urzulei, Baunei and Santa Maria
lawlessness of the Barbagia can Navarrese, along the spectacular
be seen in Orgosolo, with its SS125 road to Tortolì, feature
wall murals calling for Sardinia’s breathtaking landscapes.
independence. Rival clans were
locked in bloody vendetta for
almost 50 years, and the deeds
of native bandits form part of
local folklore.
Nobel Prize-winning novelist Grazia In Mamoiada’s Feast of the
Deledda from Nuoro Mamuthones, men in sinister
masks and traditional costume
5 Nuoro perform a ritual dance ending
with a symbolic “killing” of a
* 38,000. V @ n Piazza d’Italia
19 (0784 300 83). ( Fri & Sat. _ 29 scapegoat. The fervour of the
Aug: Sagra del Redentore. event is indicative of the fierce
∑ comune.nuoro.it folkloric tradition and deep
resistance to change.
This town, in a spectacular
setting beneath Monte Ortobene E Museo Etnografico Sardo
and the dramatic Supramonte, Via Mereu 56. Tel 0784 25 70 35. Open
was the home of Grazia Deledda, 10am–1pm, 3–8pm Tue–Sun (Oct–Mar: Ruins of Tharros near Oristano
who won the Nobel Prize for to 7pm). & 7 ∑ isresardegna.it
Literature in 1926 for her portrayal 7 Oristano
of the power and passions in the Cagliari. * 32,000. V @ n EPT,
primitive communities around 6 Cala Gonone Piazza Eleonora 1 (0783 79 13 06); Pro
her. A comprehensive collection Nuoro. * 800. @ n Pro Loco, via Loco, Via Vittorio Emanuele 8 (0783
of ethnic items, such as Lamormara 108, Dorgali (0784 962 43). 706 21). ( Tue & Fri.
traditional Sardinian costumes ( daily. 4 from Dorgali to grottoes
and jewellery, can be seen in the (Apr–mid-Oct). Tel 0784 933 05. The province of Oristano
excellent Museo Etnografico corresponds roughly with
Sardo. Attending the Sagra del East of Nuoro, between the sea historical Arborea, over which
Redentore festival is the best and the mountains, is the hamlet Eleonora ruled (see opposite).
way to witness the region’s of Cala Gonone – a bustling She is commemorated by an
dancing and dialects. seaside resort and fishing port, 18th-century statue in Piazza
with magnificent beaches. Along Eleonora. On Corso Vittorio
Environs the unspoiled coast are the Emanuele is the 16th-century
Nuoro is on the edge of the isolated coves of Cala Luna, Casa di Eleonora, and nearby
Barbagia region, which has linked with Cala Gonone by a the Antiquarium Arborense,
isolated villages of shepherds well-marked 2-hour trail, and which has Neolithic, nuraghic,
Punic and Roman artifacts. The
Torre di San Cristoforo (1291)
in Piazza Roma once formed
part of Oristano’s fortifications.
The Duomo (13th century) was
later rebuilt in the Baroque style.
More interesting are the churches
of Santa Chiara (1343) on
Via Garibaldi and 14th-century
San Martino on Via Cagliari.

Environs
The 12th-century Pisan-
Romanesque Cathedral at Santa
Giusta has columns probably
taken from Tharros, an 8th-
Entrance to the Grotta del Bue Marino, south of Cala Gonone century-BC Punic settlement,
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp576–7 and pp600–605


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Size 125mm x 217mm

SARDINIA  555


The old core of Cagliari has an
appealing North African character.
In the high Castello district, the
Romans and, later, Pisans built
defences. The gracious Bastione
San Remy on Piazza Costituzione
offers magnificent views over the
city and surrounding countryside.
The Duomo is a 20th­century
rehash of a Romanesque building.
Flanking the entrance are two
12th­century pulpits originally
destined for the cathedral in Pisa.
Nearby is the Pisan tower
Torre San Pancrazio (14th
century). Down in Stampace
quarter, Piazza Yenne is the
centre of old Cagliari, with bars
The tiny resort of Carloforte, the capital of Isola di San Pietro full of young crowds. Nearby,
there is an elevator to the
20 km (12 miles) west of 9 Cagliari Castello quarter. From the part­
Oristano on the Sinis peninsula. * 165,000. k V @ g n Piazza ruined Torre dell’Elefante on Via
Matteotti 9 (070 66 92 55). ( daily; dell’Università to the port lies the
E Antiquarium Arborense also Sun (flea) and 2nd Sun of month Marina quarter, which expanded
Palazzo Parpaglia. Tel 0783 79 12 62. (antiques). ∑ cagliariturismo.it from the old town in the 16th
Open Jul & Aug: 9am–2:30pm, 3:30– to 17th centuries. In Piazza San
9pm Mon–Fri; 9am–2pm, 4–9pm Sat The capital of Sardinia, this site Cosimo, the 6th­century church
& Sun; Sep–Jun: 9am–8pm daily (Sat & was occupied by the Phoenicians, of San Saturnino is a rare monu­
Sun: closed 2–3pm). & 8 7 Carthaginians and Romans, and ment to Byzantine occupation.
extensive ruins of the Phoenician
8 Sant’Antioco city of Nora lie to the southwest E Cittadella dei Musei
of Cagliari. A 2nd­century Piazza Arsenale. Tel 070 675 76 27.
Cagliari. V @ n Pro Loco, Piazza Museo Archeologico Nazionale:
Repubblica 31a (0781 84 05 92). amphitheatre survives from
the Roman era, cut from rock. Open 9am–8pm Tue–Sun. & 7
The main town on this unspoiled Discover the town’s earlier Pinacoteca: Tel 070 66 24 96.
island is Sant’Antioco, once a history in the Cittadella dei Open 9am–8pm Tue–Sun. Closed
Phoenician port and an important Musei, the former royal arsenal. 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 7
Roman base. Proof of almost It houses several
continuous occupation is clear museums, including Eleonora of Arborea
from the catacombs, a Phoenician the Museo
burial place later used by Christ­ Archeologico A champion against
ians, under the 12th­ century Nazionale. The rule from abroad,
basilica of Sant’Antioco Martire. nuraghic items are the Eleonora was govern­
The Museo Archeologico has most interesting in the ing giudicessa
Phoenician artifacts. The Punic collection, especially the (judge) of Arborea,
Tophet (sanctuary of the goddess bronze votive statuettes. one of four
Tanit) and the necropolis are Also in the Cittadella dei administrative
nearby. The small Isola di San Musei is the Pinacoteca, divisions of
Sardinia, from
Pietro can be reached by ferry an art gallery. 1383–1404.
from Calasetta. Her marriage to Brancaleone
Doria consolidated Genoese
T Catacombs interests in Sardinia. She rallied
Piazza Parrocchia. Tel 0781 the island to keep out Spanish
830 44. Open 9am–noon, invaders who tried to claim
3:30–5:30pm Mon–Sat (6pm land that had been given to
Sat); Sun & hols: 3:30–6pm; the Aragonese King James II.
summer: also 7–8pm Mon– Her greatest legacy was the
Fri. 8 only. & 7 comple tion of the codifying
E Museo Archeologico of laws begun by her father.
Via Regina Margherita 113. Written in Sardinian, they
Tel 0783 744 33. Open 9am– called for community of
7pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, property in mar riage and
Easter, 8, 25, 26 Dec. 8 & The 6th-century church of San Saturnino in the right of women to seek
(& Tophet & necropolis). 7 Cagliari, built on a Greek-cross plan redress from rape.




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it_556-557_travellers_needs.indd 552 22/03/13 8:32 PM
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Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

Travellers’


needs





Where to Stay 558–577

Where to Eat and Drink 578–605
Shopping in Italy 606–607
Entertainment in Italy 608–611

















































it_556-557_travellers_needs.indd 553 10/05/13 6:34 PM

558  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY


People come from all over the world to visit served too, with everything from stately villas
Italy and most Italians spend their holidays in Tuscany to purpose-built holiday flats in,
here as well, particularly in the mountains or near, seaside resorts. Italian hotels can
or by the sea. This means that there is a have a reputation for being expensive and
dazzling range of accommodation options, short on services, but this is not always the
from splendid hotels in old palazzi and case and you can find excellent value in all
historic residences, to simple family-run price ranges. The hotels listed on pages
pensioni and hostels. Most major cities also 562–77 have been selected from every price
offer upmarket B&Bs. Those who want category as among the best value in each
self-catering accommodation are well area for style, comfort or location.

than a sparsely furnished
breakfast room. Most will offer
at least some bedrooms with a
private shower although rarely a
bath. If you intend to be out
late, check that you’ll be able to
get back into the pensione. Not
all of them have night porters
after midnight or 1am, but
most will at least be able to
provide a key to the main door.
A locanda was traditionally
an inn, offering cheap food
and a place to sleep for the
traveller. The word is still in
use, particularly in central and
The Gritti Palace, one of Venice’s historic palazzi (see p563) northern Italy, but is now
synonymous with pensione and
Gradings
Many top-range and boutique may be more of an affectation
Hotels in Italy are classified hotels also offer spa and for the benefit of the tourist.
with a rating system of one fitness facilities.
to five stars. The grading
depends on the facilities Pensioni Chain Hotels
offered and each region awards There are various Italian chain
stars according to slightly Although the term pensione is no hotels, including Atahotels and
different criteria. longer in official use, one- and Una Hotels and Resorts, as
Sometimes a hotel has a two-star hotels still use the term well as the usual big inter-
lower rating than it deserves. to describe their status. On the nationals. NH Hoteles rooms
This may be because the local whole you will find immaculate usually appeal to business
tourist office has not upgraded standards of cleanliness and travellers and there are one or
it yet or the hotel itself has friendly, helpful service with basic, two of these hotels in most
opted to stay in a lower category although perfectly functional large cities. Marriott, Hyatt and
to avoid higher taxes. rooms. Be aware that, while your Best Western are international
pensioni may be in an old build- luxury chains. Italia Lodging
ing full of historic charm, this can cater for the more modest
Alberghi also mean noisy, erratic plumbing budget. Relais & Châteaux
Albergo is Italian for “hotel”, and dark rooms. Many pensioni run charming hotels in historic
but the term tends to refer to do not have public rooms other castles, villas and monasteries,
establish ments classified as with facilities to match.
three-star or above. Room
sizes vary considerably: in Meals and Facilities
city centres even expensive
hotels can have small rooms, There has been a general
especially if the hotel is improvement in the facilities
located in a historic building, offered by Italian hotels,
whereas you get far more especially in the more modern
space for your money in rural four- and five-star hotels.
areas. Alberghi will have private Street sign showing the direction and However, in some older
baths or showers in all rooms. location of hotels establishments there may not
The popular San Carlo café on Piazza San Carlo, Turin



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Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

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In larger hotels there is often a
considerable difference in
quality and price between
standard and more luxurious,
deluxe rooms. If you would like
a view or a terrace this is also
likely to be more expensive,
though for those who prefer
peaceful nights, it is generally
best to avoid rooms facing the
street in busy cities.
Also, beware of extra charges:
the mini-bar can be very
expensive, as can the cost of
parking, laundry or for making
telephone calls directly from
your hotel bedroom.
Romantic Hotel Villa Pagoda in Nervi, Genoa (see p568)
Prices Booking
always be air-conditioning or
24-hour room service, so it’s As a rule, hotels in Italy are not Book as soon as possible,
best to check before you book. cheap, although prices vary particu larly if you have special
Some hotels may insist on full considerably between regions. requests such as a room with
board (pensione completa) or Hotels in major cities and resorts a view, off the street or with a
half board (mezza pensione) in are likely to be more expensive. bath. August tends to be very
peak season. Most hotel rates Booking online is one way to busy at beach resorts and
include breakfast, which in many secure a better rate, as hotel February is high season at
establishments will consist of a websites may offer special mountain resorts. Peak times
large buffet, although smaller deals. Or you can save money for cities and towns depend
hotels and pensioni may offer a by booking your hotel and on their particular cultural
simple continental breakfast. flight together on most calendars (see pp70–73).
For a double room, state if travel websites. You will be asked for a
you want twin beds (letti singoli) Prices, which include tax and deposit when you book; this
or a double bed (matrimoniale). service and are quoted per can usually be paid for by credit
Bathrooms in most hotels room, start from around €60 card (even in hotels that do not
will have showers rather for a double room without a accept credit cards for final
than baths. bath room, and can rise to at payment); other wise you can
Most hotels offer Internet least €80 with a bath, even use PayPal for online transactions,
access, but it is not always free, for a very basic hotel. A single or tranfer the money via BACS
and charges will vary. If a city room will cost about two thirds from your bank account.
centre hotel does not have its of a double. Outside the big Under Italian law the hotel
own parking spaces, it may cities, €100 should get you must issue you with a receipt
have an arrangement with a something comfortable and (ricevuta fiscale) for final
nearby garage. Check the often picture s que, although payment, which you must
availability and cost of parking not particularly luxurious. keep until you leave Italy.
with the hotel prior to booking. For €210 and upwards you The Italian State Tourist Office
can expect a good range of (ENIT) has accommodation lists
facilities, a pleasant or central for every region, although this
Children location and often a hotel might not be the most up-to-
Italians love children and, with local or historic charm. date resource. Rooms can also
although most hotels may not In Rome, all campsites, B&Bs be booked via the APT (Azienda
offer special facilities for families, and hotels must add a Provinciale per il Turismo).
kids are always welcome. city tax (contributo
Some of the cheaper hotels di soggiorno) to
may not be able to provide the bill. At present,
cots. However, virtually all these rates are
hotels will be happy to put a fixed at €1 per day
small bed into a double room per person for
for families travelling together. camp sites, €2 for
The price of this is usually an establish ments up
extra 30–40 per cent of the to and including
double room rate per bed. three-star hotels,
Many large hotels also offer and €3 for four-
babysitting services. and five-star hotels. A traditional Florentine hotel interior




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560  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


modation may be in single­ or
mixed­sex dormitories, though
many hostels also have small
private rooms. A room in a
private house is another cheap
option, often offering small but
clean rooms. Bed­and­breakfast
accommodation is available
but is of variable quality.
The Centro Turistico
Studentesco can help students
find rooms in university
accommodation across Italy.
This is not limited to students,
The multi-level terrace of the Raphael in Rome (see p573) however, particularly in the
summer, when resident
sporting activities (see p610). Note students are on holiday.
Checking In and Out
that there may be a minimum A peaceful alternative is to
Italian hotels are legally obliged stay requirement at some of stay in a convent or monastery
to register you with the police, these establishments, especially with guest accommodation.
which is why you’ll always be during peak season. The annual The rooms are clean, if a little
asked for your passport when Agriturist publication can be spartan, and they are usually
checking in. This is a mere forma­ found in the central tourist office in a secluded area. Note that
lity, and your passport should in Rome, in regional offices and strict rules may be the price
be returned to you within an in bookshops. Other self­catering for a cheap room: most have
hour or two. options can be arranged early curfews and many will not
Checking­out through specialized admit members of the opposite
time is usually agencies such as sex even when with their
before noon, Villas4you and spouses. There is no central
although some Simply Travel before agency dealing with these,
larger hotels may you leave for Italy, but they are included in the
extend your but, again, make ENIT accom modation lists for
checking­out time sure you do this each region.
upon request, but well in advance, as
only if your room is accommodation
not already can be booked up Mountain Refuges and
Camp Sites
reserved for months ahead.
another guest. There are also Basic accommodation in huts
All rooms must be so­called residenze, and refuges is available in
vacated on time, found in the ENIT moun tainous areas where there
but most hotels Al Sole, Venice (see p563) accommodation lists. are hiking trails. Most of these
will allow you to These are halfway huts are owned and run by
leave your luggage in between hotels and self­ the Club Alpino Italiano, whose
a safe place to be collected catering flats, and usually offer headquarters are in Milan.
later in the day. cooking facilities and some sort
of restaurant service.
For stays of several months or
Self-Catering and more, accommodation agencies
Agriturismo for apartments in the city
Across rural Italy, there are more centre, as well as the nearby
than 2,000 farms, villas and countryside, can be found
mountain chalets offering under Immobiliari in the Pagine
reasonably priced self­catering Gialle (Yellow Pages).
or hotel­style accommodation
as part of the Agriturismo
scheme. Options range from Budget Accommodation
beautifully kept villas or ancient As well as the International Youth
castles with first­class facilities, Hostels Association (AIG in Italy),
to simple rooms in the family tourist offices in the major cities
home on a working farm. Some have lists of hostels. Prices start
places have excellent restaurants, at around €12 per person per
which serve farm and local night (€15 during peak season),
produce, while others can and are much lower than even A boat carrying visitors’ luggage to a hotel
arrange riding, fishing or other the cheapest pensione. Accom­ in Venice




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WHERE T O ST A Y  561


Camp sites abound in the moun­
tains and around the coastal
regions. Many of them offer basic
accommodation in family­sized
cabins (bungalow) as well as
spaces for tents, caravans and
trailers, along with facilities
such as water, electricity and
washing. There is usually a
restaurant and, especially in
camp sites by the sea, there
may also be sports facilities
such as swimming pools, boat
and water­sports equipment
hire and tennis courts. The A Park Spa Suite bedroom in the Park Hyatt Milano (see p566)
Touring Club Italiano publishes Recommended Hotels
a good list of camp sites with
details of facilities for each one, The hotels listed in this guide­
as does Federcampeggio. book have been chosen because
they represent the best Italy has
to offer in hospitality, service,
Disabled Travellers
value or location. A huge variety
In general, only newer hotels in of accom modation options are
Italy have special facilities for covered, from simple farmhouses
disabled travellers, although in and alpine chalets to family­run
many cases older hotels will do B&Bs and luxury palaces.
all they can to accom modate Entries labelled DK Choice
people in wheelchairs by giving are outstanding in some way.
them downstairs rooms (when They may be set in beautiful
available) and helping with lifts surroundings or in a historically
or stairs. It is best to contact the important building, offer excellent
hotel of your choice directly service, have a romantic atmo­
before booking, to check sphere, be particularly charming,
whether they are wheelchair environ mentally friendly or
accessible and what facilities have a great spa. Whatever the
A high-altitude refuge in the they have (for more information reason, DK Choice is a guarantee
Valsesia Alps see pp616–17). of a memorable stay.
DIRECTORY
Chain Hotels Una Hotels and Tel 06 685 23 37. Centro Turistico
Resorts ∑ agriturist.it Studentesco
Atahotels Tel 800 60 61 62. Tel 06 64 96 03 00.
Tel 02 69 82 69 82. ∑ unahotels.it Simply Travel ∑ cts.it
∑ atahotels.it Tel 0871 231 40 50.
Booking ∑ thomson.co.uk Italia Lodging
Best Western Hotels Tel 06 77 25 05 43.
Tel 02 83 10 86 30. ENIT Villas4you ∑ italialodging.com
PO Box 1310, Maidstone
∑ bestwestern.it Via Marghera 2–6,
00185 Rome. ME14 9QH. Mountain Refuges
Hyatt Tel 06 497 11. Tel 0800 096 3439. and Camp Sites
Tel 02 88 21 12 34. ∑ enit.it ∑ villas4you.co.uk
∑ hyatt.com Club Alpino Italiano
Italian State Tourist Budget Via E Petrella 19, Milan.
Marriott Board Accommodation Tel 02 205 72 31. ∑ cai.it
Tel 800 22 89 29 00. 1 Princes Street, London Federcampeggio
∑ marriott.com W1B 2AY. Tel 020 7408 AIG (Associazione Via Vittorio Emanuele 11,
1254. ∑ italia.it Italiana Alberghi per 50041 Calenzano, Florence.
NH Hoteles la Gioventù)
Tel 848 390 006. Self-Catering and Via Nicotera 1, 00195 Tel 055 88 23 91.
∑ federcampeggio.it
∑ nh-hotels.com Agriturismo Rome. Tel 06 487 11 52.
Relais & Châteaux Agriturismo ∑ aighostels.it Touring Club Italiano
Corso Italia 10, 20122
Tel 02 62 69 00 64. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II Bed and Breakfast Milan. Tel 840 88 88 02.
∑ relaischateaux.com 101, 00186 Rome. ∑ bed-and-breakfast.it ∑ touringclub.it



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562  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

A somewhat nondescript exterior Price Guide
Venice belies the splendour within. The Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Citrus Garden is a verdant oasis, high season for a standard double room,
CANNAREGIO: Al Saor € and the restaurant boasts a inclusive of service charges and taxes.
B&B Map 3 A4 Michelin star. € under €120
Calle Zotti 3904/a, 30121 €€ €120 to €300
Tel 041 296 06 54 (closed 15 days Dec) DORSODURO: Agli Alboretti €€ €€€ over €300
∑ alsaor.com Pensione Map 6 E4
Many rooms at this simple and Rio Terrà Foscarini 884, 30123 GIUDECCA: Cipriani €€€
elegant guest house have original Tel 041 523 00 58 (closed 20 days Jan) Luxury Map 7 C5
timber beams. Guests can have ∑ aglialboretti.com Giudecca 10, 30133
breakfast on the rooftop terrace. The simple, comfortable rooms Tel 041 520 77 44 (closed mid-Nov–
at this hotel are equipped with a mid-Mar)
CANNAREGIO: Hotel free minibar. Very helpful staff. ∑ hotelcipriani.com
Giorgione €€ This Venice institution is exqui site.
Luxury Map 3 B4 DORSODURO: Instituto Amenities include a free private
Calle dei Proverbi 4587, 30121 Artigianelli €€ shuttle boat to Piazza San Marco.
Tel 041 522 58 10 Historic Map 6 E4
∑ hotelgiorgione.com Rio Terrà Foscarini 909/a, 30123 LIDO: Villa Mabapa €€€
Stay in charming rooms in a lovely Tel 041 522 40 77 Rooms with a view
old building. There is a courtyard ∑ donorione-venezia.it Riviera San Nicolò 16, 30126
for alfresco dining, and a hot tub Religious institution offering Tel 041 526 05 90 (closed Nov–mid-
with sea water. Great breakfasts. simple, modern rooms with Mar)
en-suite bathrooms. Its 15th- ∑ villamabapa.com
CANNAREGIO: Palazzo century cloister is overlooked This attractive period villa
Abadessa €€ by the Gesuati Church cupolas. overlooks the Venice lagoon.
Historic Map 3 A4 Meals are served in the lush,
Calle Priuli 4011, 30131 DORSODURO: Locanda extensive garden.
Tel 041 241 37 84 (closed 6–26 Jan) Ca’ Zose €€
∑ abadessa.com B&B Map 6 F4 DK Choice
Charming 16th-century palace Calle del Bastion 193/b, 30123
furnished with antiques and Tel 041 522 66 35 MAZZORBO: Venissa €€
plush fabrics. Spacious rooms. ∑ hotelcazose.com Pensione Map 3 B4
Spacious rooms in a charming Fondamenta Santa Caterina 3,
CANNAREGIO: Ca’ Sagredo €€€ guesthouse run by two sisters; 30170
Historic Map 3 A5 in a great location for art lovers. Tel 041 527 22 81 (closed end
Campo Santa Sofia 4198, 30121 Nov–end Feb)
Tel 041 241 31 11 DORSODURO: Locanda ∑ venissa.it
∑ casagredohotel.com San Barnaba €€ A stylish option on a little-known
Just across from Rialto market, Rooms with a view Map 6 D3 island for those who want
this modernized 13th-century Calle del Traghetto 2785–2786, exclusivity. Rooms are modern
palazzo offers superb views. 30123 and spacious. Delicious meals
Frescoes decorate many rooms. Tel 041 241 12 33 are served in the restaurant.
∑ locanda-sanbarnaba.com
CASTELLO: Locanda la Corte €€ This is the perfect place to
Historic Map 3 C5 return to after a hard day’s SAN MARCO: Saturnia and
Calle Bressana 6317, 30122 sightseeing. Spotless rooms, International €€
Tel 041 241 13 00 most overlooking the canal. Luxury Map 7 A3
∑ locandalacorte.it Via XXII Marzo 2398, 30124
This is a converted 16th-century Tel 041 520 83 77
palace with a courtyard. Many ∑ hotelsaturnia.it
rooms have charming canal or Run by the same family since
courtyard views. 1908, this hotel offers opulence
wrapped in a homely setting.
CASTELLO: Londra Palace €€ Antique furnishings and a
Boutique Map 8 D1 pretty courtyard.
Riva degli Schiavoni 4171, 30122
Tel 041 520 05 33 SAN MARCO: Europa &
∑ londrapalace.com Regina €€€
Excellent service and spacious, Luxury Map 7 A3
luxurious rooms. The hotel bar Calle Larga XXII Marzo 2159, 30124
is famous for its cocktails and Tel 041 240 00 01
coffee, while the restaurant offers ∑ westineuropareginavenice.com
views of San Giorgio Maggiore. Stay in elegant rooms and enjoy
impeccable service. Rubelli
CASTELLO: Metropole €€€ textiles, mahogany floors and
Luxury Map 8 D1 Italian marble create a touch
Riva degli Schiavoni 4149, 30122 of class in every room. There
Tel 041 520 50 44 Elegant interiors and great views at the are also panoramic terraces
∑ hotelmetropole.com Cipriani hotel, Giudecca with magni ficent views.
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WHERE T O ST A Y  563

SAN MARCO: Gritti Palace €€€
Luxury Map 6 F3
Santa Maria del Giglio 2467, 30124
Tel 041 79 46 11
∑ thegrittipalace.com
Set in an iconic palazzo dating
back to 1475. Opulent rooms
feature period details.
SAN MARCO: Luna Hotel
Baglioni €€€
Luxury Map 7 B3
Calle Larga dell’Ascensione 1243, 30124
Tel 041 528 98 40
∑ baglionihotels.com
Spacious, retro-chic rooms in a
historic palazzo. Arrive by water
taxi at the private jetty.
Romantic natural setting of Hotel Cappella in Colfosco
SAN MARCO: Splendid
Venice €€€ CONEGLIANO: Il Faè €
Luxury Map 7 B7 The Veneto and Friuli Rooms with a view
Mercerie 760, 30124 Via Faè 1, San Pietro di Feletto, 31020
Tel 041 520 07 55 ASOLO: Albergo al Sole €€ Tel 0438 78 71 17 (closed Oct–Mar
∑ splendidvenice.starhotels.com Rooms with a view exc Christmas)
This hotel is comfortable and Via Collegio 33, 31011 ∑ ilfae.com
quiet, with a well-stocked library Tel 0423 95 13 32 (closed Jan) Pleasant property surrounded by
and peaceful reading areas. ∑ albergoalsoleasolo.com vineyards. Good views over the
Pleasant, spacious rooms foothills of the Alps.
SAN POLO: Al Campaniel € overlook the town square. The
B&B Map 6 E2 restaurant terrace offers views of CORNO DI ROSAZZO:
Calle del Campaniel 2889, 30125 the town and countryside. Villa Butussi €
Tel 041 275 07 49 Rooms with a view
∑ alcampaniel.com ASOLO: Villa Cipriani €€ Via San Martino 29, Visinale dello
Rooms are spacious and bright at Historic Judrio, 33040
this clean, cosy guesthouse in a Via Canova 298, 31011 Tel 0432 75 99 22
quiet street. The small apartment Tel 0423 52 34 11 ∑ butussi.it
is great for families. ∑ villacipriani.it A 17th-century villa converted
Comfortable hotel in a into a guesthouse that offers
SANTA CROCE: Hotel Falier €€ 16th-century villa once home both rooms and apartments.
Charming Map 5 C1 to poet Robert Browning. Renovated suites feature Jacuzzis.
Salizzada San Pantalon 130, 30135
Tel 041 71 08 82 CASTELROTTO: CORTINA D’AMPEZZO:
∑ hotelfalier.com Cavallino d’Oro €€ Montana €€
This hotel is full of light, airy Spa hotel Pensione
rooms and has a pretty wisteria- Piazza Kraus 2, 39040 Corso Italia 94, 32043
filled garden. Helpful staff. Tel 0471 70 63 37 Tel 0436 86 21 26 (closed May & Nov)
∑ cavallino.it ∑ cortina-hotel.com
DK Choice The decor at this cosy hotel in a In the heart of town, this hotel
pretty setting is Tyrolean-chic.
has a games room, a ski depot
SANTA CROCE: Al Sole €€ The spa is housed in the 700- and easy access to the pistes.
Historic Map 5 C1 year-old wine cellar.
Fondamenta Tolentini 134–6, CORTINA D’AMPEZZO:
30135 CIVIDALE DEL FRIULI: Cristallo Hotel €€€
Tel 041 244 03 28 Locanda al Pomo d’Oro € Luxury
∑ alsolehotels.com Historic Via R. Menardi 42, 32043
Housed in Palazzo Marcello, Piazzetta San Giovanni 20, 33043 Tel 0436 88 11 11 (closed early Oct–
a 15th-century palace with a Tel 0432 73 14 89 (closed end Feb– mid-Dec, after Easter–mid-Jun)
beauti ful façade and marble- Mar) ∑ cristallo.it
floored reception area, this ∑ alpomodoro.com Some of the beautiful rooms
hotel offers well-appointed This traditional inn set in a quiet here have balcony views of the
rooms. Enjoy the rich breakfast square in the historic centre Alps. Excellent facilities include a
spread served in a patio garden. offers a number of family rooms. spa and a nine-hole golf course.
COLFOSCO: Hotel Cappella €€ FOLLINA: Villa Abbazia €€
TORCELLO: Locanda Cipriani €€ Rooms with a view Historic
Rooms with a view Strada Pecei 17, 39033 Piazza IV Novembre 3, 31051
Piazza Santa Fosca 29, 30012 Tel 0471 83 61 83 (closed 19 Sep– Tel 0438 97 12 77 (closed Jan–mid-
Tel 041 73 01 50 (closed Jan–mid-Feb) Nov, after Easter–mid-Jun) Mar)
∑ locandacipriani.com ∑ hotelcappella.com ∑ hotelabbazia.it
Comfortable old-world inn located At this chalet in the Dolomites, This delightful 17th-century villa
far from the madding crowd. you can choose from a variety of has spacious rooms decorated in
Famed for its quiet elegance. different suites. English country-house style.
For more information on types of hotels see pp558–61
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564  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

GARDA: Locanda TORRI DEL BENACO: VICENZA: Glam Boutique
San Vigilio €€€ Hotel Gardesana € Hotel €€
Rooms with a view Historic Boutique
Località San Vigilio 17, 37016 Piazza Calderini 5, 37010 A. Giuriolo 10, 36100
Tel 045 725 66 88 (closed Nov–Mar) Tel 045 722 54 11 (closed Nov–Mar) Tel 0444 32 64 58
∑ locanda-sanvigilio.it ∑ gardesana.eu ∑ gboutiquehotel.com
Exuding old-world charm, this A 15th-century former harbour This stylish hotel offers a perfect
is one of the most exclusive master’s house converted into blend of traditional and modern
hotels on Lake Garda, with its a friendly, comfortable hotel. decor. Bike rental available.
own port and helipad.
TREVISO: Locanda da Renzo €
MALCESINE: Sailing Center B&B
Hotel €€ Via Terraglio 108, 31100 Trentino-Alto Adige
Rooms with a view Tel 0422 40 20 68
Via Gardesana 187, 37018 ∑ locandadarenzo.it BOLZANO: Hotel Laurin €€
Tel 045 740 00 55 (closed mid-Oct– A small family-run guesthouse Historic
3rd wk Apr) with a home-cooked evening Via Laurin 4, 39100
∑ hotelsailing.com meal available on request. Tel 0471 31 10 00
Located on the shores of Lake ∑ laurin.it
Garda, the Sailing Center Hotel TRIESTE: Le Corderie €€ Guests marvel at the original
has comfortable rooms and its Boutique Art Nouveau features of this
own private beach. Via di Calvola 43, 34143 charming hotel. Inside, it is
Tel 040 322 92 77 all about modern comforts.
PADUA: Augustus Terme €€ ∑ lecorderiehotel.it
Spa Hotel You’re assured a warm welcome BOLZANO: Luna-Mondschein €€
Viale Stazione 150, 35036 at this comfortable, modern Spa hotel
Tel 049 79 32 00 (closed 10 Jan– hotel. Great breakfast. Via Piave 15, 39100
10 Feb) Tel 0471 97 56 42
∑ hotelaugustus.com UDINE: Hotel Clocchiatti & ∑ hotel-luna.it
The Augustus Terme is a Next € This stylish city-centre hotel has
comfortable hotel with opulent Boutique fabulous grounds. Guests enjoy
rooms, thermal swimming pools Via Cividale 29, 33100 traditional Tyrolean cuisine and
and a reputable restaurant. Tel 0432 50 50 47 (closed last wk can relax in the elegant spa.
Dec–1st wk Jan)
PESCHIERA DEL GARDA: ∑ hotelclocchiatti.it BRESSANONE: Hotel Dominik €€
Active Hotel Paradiso & Golf €€ Choose between rooms with Rooms with a view
Boutique period decor or modern fittings. Via Terzo di Sotto 13, 39042
Via Coppo 2/b, 37014 The pool is set in lush surrounds. Tel 0472 83 01 44
Tel 045 640 58 11 ∑ hoteldominik.com
∑ activehotelparadisopeschiera.it VALDOBBIADENE: Furnished with antiques, most
Amenities at this stylish hotel Villa Barberina €€ rooms here boast views of the
with pleasant, airy rooms include Historic river. The Wellness Zone features
an 18-hole golf course, plus Via Roma 2, 31049 an indoor pool, and there is a
indoor and outdoor pools. Tel 0423 97 24 79 (closed Dec–Mar) sunbathing deck on the roof.
∑ villabarberina.it
POVOLETTO: La Faula € In the past wealthy Venetians FIE ALLO SCILIAR: Hotel
Agriturismo would live part of the year in Schmung €€
Via Faula 5, 33040 their country estates. With its Rooms with a view
Tel 334 399 67 34 (closed Nov–early elegant rooms, magnificent Compatsch 12, Alpe de Siusi, 39040
Mar) grounds and wonderful library, Tel 0471 72 79 43 (closed May & Nov)
∑ faula.com this 18th-century villa gives ∑ schmung.com
Surrounded by vineyards and guests an idea of the opulence Set in a protected area with
farmland, this restored farmhouse of such residences. car access kept to a minimum,
offers pleasant, rustic rooms. this panoramic haven offers a
Wine-tasting courses are available. VERONA: Giulietta e tranquil stay. Excellent restaurant.
Romeo €€ Half board.
Charming
Vicolo Tre Marchetti 3, 37121 DK Choice
Tel 045 800 35 54
∑ giuliettaeromeo.com MERANO: Ottmanngut €€
Bright, comfortable rooms and Boutique
a hearty breakfast served in a Via Verdi 18, 39012
modern space, plus a gym. Tel 0473 44 96 56 (closed early
Jan–mid-Mar)
VERONA: Il Torcolo €€ ∑ ottmanngut.it
Charming Surrounded by lush greenery,
Vicolo Listone 3, 37121 this family-run guesthouse is
Tel 045 800 75 12 (closed mid- to within walking distance of the
end Jan) spa town. The suites are elegant
∑ hoteltorcolo.it with period furnishings and
Small, family-run hotel with modern conveniences. There is
Comfortable furnishings at Hotel Laurin simple rooms and a pleasant also a lovely garden to relax in.
in Bolzano terrace where breakfast is served.
Key to prices see p562
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WHERE T O ST A Y  565

VICENZA: Glam Boutique MERANO: Hotel Castel
Hotel €€ Fragsburg €€€
Boutique Rooms with a view
A. Giuriolo 10, 36100 Via Fragsburg 3, 39012
Tel 0444 32 64 58 Tel 0473 24 40 71 (closed Nov–Mar)
∑ gboutiquehotel.com ∑ fragsburg.com
This stylish hotel offers a perfect This hotel boasts some fine
blend of traditional and modern views. The restaurant is run by a
decor. Bike rental available. Michelin-starred chef.
DK Choice
Trentino-Alto Adige ORTISEI: Adler Dolomiti Spa
& Sport Resort €€
BOLZANO: Hotel Laurin €€ Spa hotel
Historic Via Rezia 7, 39046
Via Laurin 4, 39100 Tel 0471 77 50 01 (closed Apr–
Tel 0471 31 10 00 mid-May)
∑ laurin.it ∑ adler-dolomiti.com The outdoor pool with a view at Adler Dolomiti Spa & Sport Resort
Guests marvel at the original Owned by the same family for
Art Nouveau features of this generations, this is one of the On the promontory separating wellness and beauty centre and
charming hotel. Inside, it is finest hotels in the Dolomites. the two branches of Lake Como, several restaurants.
all about modern comforts. Excellent service; vast gardens. this historic hotel boasts frescoed
ceilings, a spa and a lakeside pool. COLOGNE: Cappuccini
BOLZANO: Luna-Mondschein €€ Resort €€
Spa hotel REDAGNO: Berghotel BERGAMO: Hotel Gombit €€ Historic
Via Piave 15, 39100 Zirmerhof €€ Design Via Cappuccini 54, 25033
Tel 0471 97 56 42 Agriturismo Via Mario Lupo 6, 24129 Tel 030 715 72 54
∑ hotel-luna.it Oberradein 59, 39040 Tel 035 24 70 09 ∑ cappuccini.it
This stylish city-centre hotel has Tel 0471 88 72 15 (closed Nov–May) ∑ gombithotel.it This former monastery offers
fabulous grounds. Guests enjoy ∑ zirmerhof.com Located in the historic Città Alta, modern rooms, a wellness centre,
traditional Tyrolean cuisine and In a beautiful mountain setting, the Gombit gives a taste of a pool and an great restaurant.
can relax in the elegant spa. this building is 600 years old but modern Italian minimalism.
has modern and airy interiors. COMO: In Riva al Lago €
BRESSANONE: Hotel Dominik €€ BORMIO: Hotel Cristallo €€ B&B
Rooms with a view TRENTO: Accademia €€ Spa hotel Via Crespi 4, 22100
Via Terzo di Sotto 13, 39042 Historic Via Milano 44, 23032 Tel 031 30 23 33
Tel 0472 83 01 44 Vicolo Colico 4–6, 38122 Tel 0342 90 27 00 ∑ inrivaallago.com
∑ hoteldominik.com Tel 0461 23 36 00 (closed 22 Dec– ∑ cristallohotelresidence.it Centrally located, spotless rooms
Furnished with antiques, most 6 Jan) A short stroll from ski-lifts and just steps from the lakeside and a
rooms here boast views of the ∑ accademiahotel.it thermal baths, this hotel offers short walk from the ferry quay
river. The Wellness Zone features Enjoy accommodation in a a large garden, a ski room and a and Brunate funicular.
an indoor pool, and there is a restored medieval building games room.
sunbathing deck on the roof. with a pleasant courtyard. COMO: Hotel Firenze €€
BRESCIA: AC Hotel Brescia € Rooms with a view
FIE ALLO SCILIAR: Hotel Design Piazza Volta 16, 22100
Schmung €€ Via Giulio Quinto Stefana 3, 25126 Tel 031 30 03 33
Rooms with a view Lombardy Tel 030 24 05 511 ∑ albergofirenze.it
Compatsch 12, Alpe de Siusi, 39040 ∑ hotelacbrescia.com A renovated Neo-Classical hotel
Tel 0471 72 79 43 (closed May & Nov) APRICA: Relais Villa Brioschi € Conveniently located for both the situated in a pedestrianized
∑ schmung.com Boutique town centre and the train station, square in the town centre.
Set in a protected area with Via Valeriana 187, 25040 this minimalist hotel has a fitness
car access kept to a minimum, Tel 0342 74 56 81 centre and a gourmet restaurant. CREMONA: Dellearti Design
this panoramic haven offers a ∑ relaisvillabrioschi.com Hotel €€
tranquil stay. Excellent restaurant. Charming rooms and studio flats BRESCIA: Park Hotel Cà Nöa € Boutique
Half board. in a luxury Art Nouveau-style villa Rooms with a view Via Bonomelli 8, 26100
close to the ski slopes. Via Triumplina 66, 25123 Tel 0372 231 31
DK Choice BELLAGIO: Hotel Florence €€ Tel 030 39 87 62 ∑ dellearti.com
Enjoy the sleek, modern rooms in
∑ hotelcanoa.it
MERANO: Ottmanngut €€ Spa hotel Modern, bright and comfortably this charming hotel close to the
Boutique Piazza Mazzini 46, 22021 furnished hotel, with a restaurant cathedral and medieval bell tower.
Via Verdi 18, 39012 Tel 031 95 03 42 and an outdoor pool. Close to
Tel 0473 44 96 56 (closed early ∑ hotelflorencebellagio.it the city centre and easily reached DESENZANO DEL GARDA:
Jan–mid-Mar) This lakeside hotel offers stylish by motorway or public transport. Park Hotel €€
∑ ottmanngut.it decor, canopy beds, roll-top Luxury
Surrounded by lush greenery, baths and a gourmet restaurant. CERNOBBIO: Villa d’Este €€€ Lungolago Cesare Battisti 17, 25015
this family-run guesthouse is Luxury Tel 030 914 34 95
within walking distance of the BELLAGIO: Grand Hotel Via Regina 40, 22012 ∑ parkhotelonline.it
spa town. The suites are elegant Villa Serbelloni €€€ Tel 031 34 81 This elegant, family-run hotel
with period furnishings and Luxury ∑ villadeste.it has a spectacular rooftop pool
modern conveniences. There is Via Roma 1, 22021 This 16th-century villa set amid and Jacuzzi with breathtaking
also a lovely garden to relax in. Tel 031 95 02 16 sumptuous Renaissance gardens views over Lake Garda, plus
∑ villaserbelloni.com has a marina, a floating pool, a well-appointed rooms.
For more information on types of hotels see pp558–61
562-577_EW_Italy.indd 565 4/5/17 9:32 AM

566  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Conveniently located for the
Naviglio area and its nightlife.
MILAN: UNA Hotel Tocq €€
Business
Via A de Tocqueville 7/D, 20154
Tel 02 62 071
∑ unahotels.it
Near Garibaldi train station and
right in the centre of the trendy
Corso Como area, this hotel offers
spacious rooms and apartments.
MILAN: Park Hyatt Milan €€€
Luxury
Via Tommaso Grossi 1, 20121
Tel 02 88 21 12 34
Stylish, minimalist decor at Nhow Milano in Milan ∑ milan.park.hyatt.com
Housed in a former bank, this
GARDONE RIVIERA: Villa MANTUA: Hotel la Favorita €€ elegant hotel has a spa and a gym.
del Sogno €€€ Business It is just steps away from Milan’s
Historic Via S. Cognetti De Martiis 1, 46100 main attractions and shops.
Via Zanardelli 107, 25083 Tel 0376 25 47 11
Tel 0365 29 01 81 ∑ hotellafavorita.it PAVIA: Il Castello di
∑ villadelsogno.it A modern and elegant hotel San Gaudenzio €€
A lakeside Neo-Classical villa with with impeccable service and an Historic
tennis courts, an outdoor pool, a excellent restaurant. Via Mulino 1, 27050
spa offering massage treatments, Tel 0383 33 31
two restaurants and two bars. MANTUA: Hotel Villa dei Tigli €€ ∑ castellosangaudenzio.com
Spa hotel Located between Pavia and the
GARGNANO: Villa Sostaga €€€ Via Cantarana 20/I, Rodigo 46040 Oltrepò wine region, this 15th-
Boutique Tel 0376 68 49 98 century castle has an indoor pool,
Via Sostaga 19, 25084 ∑ hotelvilladeitigli.it a gym and an excellent restaurant.
Tel 0365 79 12 18 Just 15 km (9 miles) outside
∑ villasostaga.it Mantua, this former aristocratic RANCO: Il Sole di Ranco €€
This family-run hotel offers large villa surrounded by gardens offers Rooms with a view
rooms with modern facilities and comfortable rooms, a wellness Piazza Venezia 5, 21020
an Art Nouveau dining room. spa centre and a restaurant. Tel 0331 97 65 07
∑ ilsolediranco.it
ISEO: Iseolago Hotel €€ DK Choice This pleasant hotel with a pool
Spa hotel and gardens overlooks Lake
Via Colombera 2, 25049 MILAN: Antica Locanda Maggiore. There is also a sauna
Tel 030 98 891 Leonardo €€ and Turkish baths.
∑ iseolagohotel.it Boutique
Extensive gardens with swimming Corso Magenta 78, 20123 RIVA DI SOLTO: Albergo
pools, a tennis court and a Tel 02 48 01 41 97 Ristorante Miranda €
children’s playground. ∑ anticalocandaleonardo.com Pensione
Peacefully located in an Via Cornello 7, 24060
DK Choice elegant 19th-century palazzo, Tel 035 98 60 21
∑ albergomiranda.it
this family-run hotel has well-
LIMONE SUL GARDA: Hotel decorated rooms overlooking Set atop a hill overlooking Lake
Capo Reamol € a charming and picturesque Iseo, the Miranda offers simple,
Budget inner garden. The staff are comfortable rooms, a restaurant
Via IV Novembre 92, 25010 helpful and friendly. and a pool, and panoramic views.
Tel 0365 95 40 40
∑ hotelcaporeamol.it SALÒ: Hotel Laurin €€
This hotel’s idyllic location offers MILAN: Antica Locanda Boutique
breathtaking views of Lake Garda. Solferino €€ Viale Landi 9, 25087
Rooms are compact but clean. Boutique Tel 0365 22 022
Guests enjoy a fitness room and Via Castelfidardo 2, 20121 ∑ laurinhotelsalo.com
spa services, along with a private Tel 02 65 70 12 9 Decorated with Art Nouveau
beach and a swimming pool. ∑ anticalocandasolferino.it frescoes, this romantic early
Excellent value for money. A welcoming guesthouse with 20th-century lakeside villa has a
eclectic old-world charm. restaurant and an outdoor pool.
Breakfast is served in your room.
LIVIGNO: Hotel Capriolo € SIRMIONE: Hotel Catullo €€
Pensione MILAN: Nhow Milano €€ Historic
Via Borch 96, 23030 Design Piazza Flaminia 7, 25019
Tel 0342 99 67 23 Via Tortona 35, 20144 Tel 030 990 58 11
∑ capriololivigno.com Tel 02 48 98 861 ∑ hotelcatullo.it
Family-run hotel located close to ∑ nh-hotels.it This hotel offers simple rooms
ski lifts and hiking paths. Offers Artistically decorated rooms in with balconies overlooking Lake
traditional Valtellina cuisine. a renovated industrial building. Garda, and a lovely rooftop terrace.
Key to prices see p562
562-577_EW_Italy.indd 566 4/5/17 9:32 AM

WHERE T O ST A Y  567

TREMEZZO: Hotel la Darsena €€ AOSTA: Hotel Village Aosta €€ ORTO SAN GIULIO: Hotel
Rooms with a view Resort San Rocco €€
Via Regina 3, 22019 Località Torrent de Maillod 1, Historic
Tel 0344 431 66 11020 Via Gippini 11, 28016
∑ ladarsena.it Tel 0165 77 49 11 Tel 0322 91 19 77
One of the advantages of staying ∑ hotelvillageaosta.it ∑ hotelsanrocco.it
at this lakeside hotel-cum- Offering both hotel rooms and Unwind at the lakeside pool or
restaurant is its superb location. individual chalets, this resort enjoy the excellent restaurant,
hotel is ideally located for both and views of San Giulio Island.
TREMEZZO: Grand Hotel winter and summer activities. The town centre, a pleasant walk
Tremezzo €€€ There is a Scandinavian away, offers additional eateries.
Resort restaurant on site.
Via Regina 8, 22019 STRESA: Hotel la Palma €€
Tel 0344 424 91 ARONA: Hotel Giardino € Resort
∑ grandhoteltremezzo.com Pensione Lungolago Umberto I 33, 28838
This prestigious lakeside hotel Corso Repubblica 1, 28041 Tel 0323 324 01
offers a range of well-appointed Tel 0322 459 94 ∑ hlapalma.it
rooms, plus indoor and outdoor ∑ giardinoarona.com This hotel offers a private beach,
pools, including a floating pool in This comfortable hotel boasts an outdoor pool, spa facilities
the lake, five restaurants and a spa. splendid views across Lake and a terrace bar. There is also
Maggiore from the large a well-regarded restaurant.
VARENNA: Hotel du Lac €€ terrace and grounds.
Rooms with a view TORTONA: Villa Giulia €
Via del Prestino 11, 23829 DK Choice Boutique
Tel 0341 83 02 38 Strada Statale per Alessandria 7/A,
∑ albergodulac.com BAVENO: Hotel Splendid €€ 15057
Located in the medieval village Resort Tel 0131 86 23 96
of Varenna, this peaceful hotel at Via Sempione 12, 28831 ∑ villagiulia-hotel.com
the edge of Lake Como boasts Tel 0323 92 45 83 Former private villa with elegant
enchanting views. Close to ∑ zaccherahotels.com decor. Enjoy a cheerful atmos-
good ferry connections. This luxurious and elegant phere and an ample breakfast.
hotel has its own private
beach (which has sunbeds TURIN: Albergo Serenella €
and a private jetty) and an Pensione
Valle d’Aosta and outdoor pool. The rooms Via Tarino 4, 10124
Piedmont are comfortable and well Tel 011 83 70 31
appointed – most have ∑ albergoserenella.com
balconies with lakeside views. This family-run establishment
ACQUI TERME: Hotel Rondò € Helpful and attentive staff has clean and basic rooms at
Spa hotel provide excellent service. unbeat able prices for the city
Viale Acquedotto Romano 44, 15011 centre. Prices do not change
Tel 0144 32 28 89 during the high season and
∑ albergorondo.it CANNOBIO: Residenza include all charges.
Rooms are basic but bright, and Patrizia €€
the staff are friendly and helpful. Pensione TURIN: Hotel Conte
Viale Vittorio Veneto 9, 28822 Biancamano €
DK Choice Tel 0323 70 22 00 Pensione
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 73, 10128
∑ residenzapatrizia.com
ALBA: Villa la Meridiana Inviting rooms and self- Tel 011 562 32 81
Cascina Reinè € contained flats are available ∑ hotelcontebiancamano.it
Agriturismo at Residenza Patrizia, plus a An intimate hotel with elegant
Località Altavilla 9, 12051 range of ameni ties such as a decor located on the third floor
Tel 0173 44 01 12 sauna and a pool. of a 19th-century palazzo.
∑ villalameridianaalba.it
This 18th-century villa benefits TURIN: Grand Hotel Sitea €€
from views over the surrounding Luxury
vineyards. Rooms boast antiques Via Carlo Alberto 35, 10123
and there are three cosy apart- Tel 011 517 01 71
ments. Guests can help harvest ∑ grandhotelsitea.it
the crop from the estate’s Set in a Neo-Classical palazzo,
vineyards and hunt for truffles. this place offers elegant suites
and a top-class restaurant.
ALESSANDRIA: Hotel Alli TURIN: NH Lingotto Tech €€
Due Buoi Rossi €€ Design
Historic Via Nizza 230, 10126
Via Cavour 32, 15121 Tel 011 664 20 00
Tel 0131 51 71 71 ∑ nh-hotels.com
∑ hotelalliduebuoirossi.com Housed in the refurbished Fiat
Founded in 1741, this central factory’s Lingotto building, this
hotel offers comfortable rooms, stunning hotel is close to
a fine dining restaurant, a bistro Stone steps leading to the charming Villa transport links to the city. Chic
and a bar. La Meridiana Cascina Reinè in Alba rooms with an industrial feel.
For more information on types of hotels see pp558–61
562-577_EW_Italy.indd 567 4/5/17 9:32 AM

568  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

TURIN: Allegro Italian With an Oriental feel, this 19th- MONTEROSSO: Hotel Marina €
Golden Palace €€€ century villa has spectacular Pensione
Luxury views, comfortable rooms and Via Buranco 40, 19016
Via dell’Arcivescovado 18, 10121 a restaurant. Genoa’s historic Tel 0187 81 76 13
Tel 011 551 21 11 centre is easily reached by train. ∑ hotelmarina5terre.com
∑ goldenpalace.it Situated near the sea and the
Convenient for visiting Turin’s GENOA: NH Marina €€ hiking path to Vernazza, the
major attractions, this centrally Rooms with a view Marina offers elegant rooms
located hotel offers a luxury spa, Molo Ponte Calvi 5, 16124 and an excellent restaurant.
pool and gym, plus a restaurant. Tel 010 253 91 Breakfast is served in a lemon
∑ nh-hotels.com garden in summer.
VARALLO SESIA: Vecchio This international hotel overlooks
Albergo Sacro Monte € the harbour and is located close OSPEDALETTI: Hotel Firenze €
Pensione to the Aquarium, the old town Rooms with a view
Località Sacro Monte 14, 13019 and the markets. Corso Regina Margherita 97,
Tel 0163 542 54 18014
∑ sacromontealbergo.it ISOLA PALMARIA: Locanda Tel 0184 68 92 21
Founded in 1594 for pilgrims, Lorena €€ ∑ firenze.azurline.com
this peaceful hotel located at Rooms with a view This small hillside hotel offers
the entrance to the Sacro Via Cavour 4, 19025 basic but cheerful rooms, most
Monte di Varallo reserve offers Tel 0187 79 23 70 of which have balconies.
comfortable, simple rooms, ∑ locandalorena.com
a small private garden and a Enjoy simple, comfortable rooms PORTO VENERE:
restaurant. and an excellent restaurant in Hotel della Baia €
this beach hotel accessible only Rooms with a view
by boat (provided by the hotel). Via Lungomare 111, 19025
Rooms in a nearby residence and Tel 0187 79 07 97
Liguria a small villa are also available. ∑ baiahotel.com
All rooms have balconies and
DK Choice LEVANTO: Hotel Stella Maris €€ views over the bay. There’s an
Boutique
outdoor pool and a restaurant.
CAMOGLI: Locanda I Tre Via Marconi 4, 19015
Merli €€ Tel 0187 80 82 58 PORTOFINO: Splendido €€€
Rooms with a view ∑ hotelstellamaris.it Luxury
Via Scalo 5, 16032 Close to the beach and the Salita Baratta 16, 16034
Tel 0185 77 67 52 Cinque Terre park, this hotel Tel 0185 26 78 01
∑ locandaitremerli.com boasts stunning Art Nouveau ∑ hotelsplendido.com
Located right on the enchanting interiors and a garden terrace. Housed in a former monastery,
fishing port of Camogli, this the Splendido has elegantly
cosy hotel offers wonderful MANAROLA: Ca’ d’Andrean € furnished rooms, many with
views and personalized service. Pensione private terraces.
Room amenities include basic Via Discovolo 101, 19017
cooking facilities. A small spa Tel 0187 92 00 40 RAPALLO: Hotel Italia
area has a Jacuzzi and a steam ∑ cadandrean.it e Lido €€
bath. Ferries to Portofino and the At this simple, good-value, Rooms with a view
Cinque Terre are nearby. Parking family-run guesthouse, some Lungomare Castello 1, 16035
is available on request. rooms have a terrace and Tel 0185 504 92
stunning views. Breakfast is ∑ italiaelido.com
served alfresco in summer. Overlooking the Gulf of Tigullio,
CAMOGLI: Cenobio dei Dogi €€€ this hotel has bright, airy rooms
Luxury and an excellent restaurant.
Via Nicolò Cuneo 34, 16032
Tel 0185 72 41 SAN REMO: Hotel Nazionale €€
∑ cenobio.it Rooms with a view
Built for the Doges of Genoa, this Corso Matteotti 3, 18038
17th-century villa houses a vast Tel 0184 57 75 77
hotel with a private beach. ∑ hotelnazionalesanremo.com
Guests at the Nazionale enjoy
FINALE LIGURE: Punta Est €€€ a high level of service and
Luxury classically furnished rooms,
Via Aurelia 1, 17024 many with sea views.
Tel 019 60 06 11
∑ puntaest.com SAN REMO: Royal Hotel €€€
Along with spectacular sea views, Luxury
this 18th-century villa offers a Corso Imperatrice 80, 18038
heated saltwater pool, wellness Tel 0184 53 91
centre, gardens and Tai Chi classes. ∑ royalhotelsanremo.com
Located right on the seafront,
GENOA: Hotel Villa Pagoda €€ the Royal Hotel is renowned
Rooms with a view for its restaurants. Guests stay
Via Capolungo 15, 16167 in truly palatial rooms and
Tel 010 372 61 61 Charming views from the vibrant Locanda I enjoy amenities such as a
∑ villapagoda.it Tre Merli, Camogli great pool and spa.
Key to prices see p562
562-577_EW_Italy.indd 568 4/5/17 9:32 AM

WHERE T O ST A Y  569

SESTRI LEVANTE: Hotel
Helvetia €€
Boutique
Via Cappuccini 43, 16039
Tel 0185 411 75
∑ hotelhelvetia.it
Located on the beach, this hotel
boasts two pools, a sun terrace
and stunning views of the bay.
Excellent service.
VENTIMIGLIA: La Riserva di
Castel d’Appio €€
Rooms with a view
Via Peidaigo 71, 18039
Tel 0184 22 95 33
∑ lariserva.it
Enjoy panoramic views over the
Italian Riviera and the Côte d’Azur Outdoor swimming pool at La Riserva di Castel d’Appio in Ventimiglia
at this hotel. Excellent service.
BOLOGNA: Hotel Cavour €€ FERRARA: Duchessa Isabella €€€
Historic Historic
Via Goito 4, 40126 Via Palestro 70, 44121
Emilia-Romagna Tel 051 228 111 Tel 0532 20 21 21
∑ cavour-hotel.com ∑ duchessaisabellaferrara.it
BOLOGNA: Delle Drapperie € This central hotel is housed in a Minute attention to detail in
Pensione historic building. It has elegant both decor and service. Rooms
Via Drapperie 5, 40124 rooms and a small furnished are sumptuously furnished.
Tel 051 223 955 terrace with great views of the
∑ albergodrapperie.com towers and roofs of Bologna. MODENA: Daunia €
Painted ceilings and luxurious Pensione
bathrooms characterize this BOLOGNA: Roma €€ Via del Pozzo 158, 41125
well-priced option. Pensione Tel 059 37 11 82
Via Massimo d’Azeglio 9, 40123 ∑ hoteldaunia.it
BOLOGNA: Il Guercino € Tel 051 226 322 A simple, modern building with
Boutique ∑ hotelroma.biz a restaurant. Breakfast is served in
Via Luigi Serra 7, 40129 This classic pensione offers a the garden, weather permitting.
Tel 051 369 893 fabulous location and delightfully
∑ guercino.it quaint rooms – ask for one with PARMA: Stendhal €€
An Indian flavour prevails at this a balcony. Romantic
charming hotel, which offers Via Giambattista Bodoni 3, 43121
guests the choice of two DK Choice Tel 0521 20 80 57
solariums and a relaxation area. ∑ hotelstendhal.it
BOLOGNA: Grand Hotel Housed in a centrally located
BOLOGNA: Indipendenza Majestic €€€ old palazzo, the Stendhal has
Suite € Luxury eclectically decorated rooms.
Pensione Via Indipendenza, 8 40121
Via dell’Indipendenza 30, 40121 Tel 051 225 445 PIACENZA: San Francesco €
Tel 331 4575 920 ∑ grandhotelmajestic. Pensione
Stay in one of four independent hotelsbologna.it Galleria San Francesco 2, 29121
apartments decorated in simple, This legendary hotel expertly Tel 0523 32 66 88
classic style. combines opulent old-world Excellent prices for spotlessly
elegance with modern comfort clean accommodation right in
BOLOGNA: CommercIanti €€ and hospitality. Each room is front of the Palazzo della Pilotta,
Historic individually decorated with and close to the Duomo.
Via de’ Pignattari 11, 40124 lush fabrics and antique
Tel 051 745 75 11 furniture. Breakfast is served PIACENZA GENEPRETO:
∑ commercianti.hotelsbologna.it on the roman tic rooftop terrace La Pobiella €€
Located next to Bologna’s with sweeping views of the Agriturismo
Cathedral, this hotel housed city. The dining room boasts Località Pobiella 16, 29010
in a 13-century building is beautiful frescoes. Tel 0523 99 75 14
bursting with romantic details. This rustic stone villa is the ideal
accommodation choice for a
BOLOGNA: Corona d’Oro €€ FERRARA: Principessa relaxed hillside holiday.
Romantic Leonora €€
Via Guglielmo Oberdan 12, 40126 Boutique RAVENNA: Sant’Andrea €
Tel 051 7457 611 Via Mascheraio 39, 44100 Boutique
∑ hco.it Tel 0532 20 60 20 Via Carlo Cattaneo 33, 48121
This historic hotel is decorated in ∑ principessaleonoraferrara.it Tel 0544 21 55 64
an eclectic style that ranges from A 16th-century residence ∑ santandreahotel.com
medieval to Art Deco. Before exquisitely decorated with Solid service and great value for
dinner, stop for an aperitivo in antique French tapestries and money in this converted convent
the glass-ceilinged atrium. traditional furniture. with a tranquil cloister-garden.
For more information on types of hotels see pp558–61
562-577_EW_Italy.indd 569 4/5/17 9:32 AM

570  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

RAVENNA: Cappello €€ Relais Il Campanile, housed in a Four Seasons Hotel Firenze €€€
Romantic 17th-century palazzo, is literally Luxury Map 2 E4
Via IV Novembre 41, 48121 in the shadow of the Duomo, Borgo Pinti 99, 50121
Tel 0544 21 98 13 so you will get a view of it as Tel 055 262 61
∑ albergocappello.it soon as you step out of the ∑ fourseasons.com/florence
The rooms in this exquisite hotel door. Quaint rooms have The Four Seasons is the epitome
in a Renaissance building have wrought-iron accents. of elegance, with silk wall
coffered ceilings and chandeliers. hangings, frescoes and bas-
Residenza Johanna € reliefs. Service is impeccable,
RIMINI: Acasamia € Pensione Map 2 D3 and the restaurant worth visiting
Budget Via Bonifacio Lupi 14, 50129 even if you are not staying here.
Viale Renato Parisano 34, 47921 Tel 055 48 18 96 The hotel runs a frequent shuttle
Tel 0541 39 13 70 ∑ antichedimorefiorentine.it bus into the centre of Florence.
∑ hotelacasamia.com Not to be confused with another
Featuring bright, colourful rooms, pensione with the same name, Grand Hotel Minerva €€€
Acasamia is located just a short but further from the centre, this Historic Map 5 B2
stroll from the beach. tiny and charming hotel is Piazza di Santa Maria Novella 16,
fantastic value. Free parking. 50123
RIMINI: Grand Hotel Rimini €€€ Tel 055 272 30
Luxury Brunelleschi €€ ∑ grandhotelminerva.com
Parco Federico Fellini 1, 47900 Historic Map 6 D2 A panoramic terrace with a
Tel 0541 560 00 Piazza Sant’Elisabetta 3, 50122 pool gives a modern touch to
∑ grandhotelrimini.com Tel 055 273 70 one of the city’s oldest hotels.
Historic deluxe seaside ∑ hotelbrunelleschi.it The Gran Hotel Minerva’s
establishment made famous by Located in a Byzantine tower, convenient location near the
Federico Fellini. Amazing decor this place offers classy, opulent train station means that many
and ambience and a high rooms. The two-level suite, in sights are in walking distance.
standard of service. the tower itself, is definitely
worth its steep price. The Westin Excelsior €€€
Luxury Map 5 A2
David €€ Piazza d’Ognissanti 3, 50123
Florence Pensione Map 4 E3 Tel 055 271 51
Viale Michelangelo 1, 50125 ∑ westinflorence.com
Palazzo Guadagni € Tel 055 681 16 95 Guests at the Westin Excelsior
Historic Map 5 B5 ∑ davidhotel.com stay in sinfully opulent rooms,
Piazza di Santo Spirito 9, 50125 Some rooms have balconies that some with balconies that have
Tel 055 265 83 76 look out over leafy Oltrarno in views of the River Arno. The roof
∑ palazzoguadagni.com this family-owned guesthouse. terrace is exquisitely presented.
Fantastic service, a great location
and reasonable prices, but the Grifone €€
hotel really stands out for its Business
terrace and loggia – a great place Via Gaetano Pilati 20, 50136 Tuscany
to relax with a glass of wine. Tel 055 62 33 00
∑ hotelgrifonefirenze.com
Relais Il Campanile € The Grifone provides comfortable DK Choice
B&B Map 6 E1 and spacious rooms, some with a AREZZO: Badia di Pomaio €€
Via Ricasoli 10, 50125 kitchenette. Boutique
Tel 055 21 16 88 Loc. Pomaio 4, 52100
∑ relaiscampanile.it Hotel Home €€ Tel 0575 35 32 10
Boutique Map 4 F2 ∑ hotelbadiadipomaio.it
Piazza Piave 3, 50122 This superbly converted
Tel 055 24 36 68 17th-century abbey is situated
∑ hhflorence.it in a picturesque spot amidst
This stylish hotel stands out for lush gardens with a swimming
its white and extremely elegant pool and panoramic views
decor with a minimalist touch. of the medieval town below.
The suite has a private balcony Comfortable and quiet rooms
with views over Florence. with elegant furnishings. The
staff are warm and hospitable.
DK Choice
Relais Uffizi €€ AREZZO: Graziella
Romantic Map 6 D4 Patio Hotel €€
Chiasso del Buco 16, 50122 Boutique
Tel 055 267 62 39 Via Cavour 23, 52100
∑ relaisuffizi.it Tel 0575 40 19 62
Located behind the Piazza ∑ hotelpatio.it
della Signoria, this hotel is This charming hotel offers a
fantastic value for money. range of rooms decorated in
All rooms are charmingly imaginative African and Far
decorated, and the breakfast Eastern styles. The location – next
Pleasantly bright, large rooms at the Relais room looks out onto the Piazza. door to Piero della Francesca’s
Uffizi in Florence frescoes – is unbeatable.
Key to prices see p562
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WHERE T O ST A Y  571

CORTONA: Italia € SIENA: Antica Residenza
Budget Cicogna €
Via Ghibellina 5/7, 52044 Pensione
Tel 0575 63 02 54 Via Termini 76, 53100
∑ hotelitaliacortona.com Tel 0577 28 56 13
Excellent value at this lovely spot ∑ anticaresidenzacicogna.it
full of character in the heart of Romantic location set in a
Cortona. There are great views medieval building full of
to be had from some rooms charming details.
and the restaurant.
SIENA: Palazzo Ravizza €€
DK Choice Romantic
Piano dei Mantellini 34, 53100
ELBA MARCIANA: Cernia Tel 0577 28 04 62
Isola Botanica €€ ∑ palazzoravizza.it
Rooms with a view Lovely rooms with original period
Via San Gaetano 23, 57030 furniture. Some rooms overlook
Tel 0565 90 82 10 a picturesque garden.
∑ hotelcernia.it Dining area with medieval details in the
A lush flower-filled park and Antica Residenza Cicogna, Siena SIENA: Grand Hotel
botanical garden surround this Continental €€€
charming hotel. Rooms are PISA: Guerrazzi € Luxury
spacious and minimalist, with B&B Via Banchi di Sopra 85, 53100
interesting design elements. Via Francesco da Buti 4, 56125 Tel 0577 560 11
There is a freshwater swimming Tel 3389 32 81 69 ∑ grandhotelcontinentalsiena.com
pool and wellness centre. ∑ bbguerrazzi.hostel.com The most prestigious address in
Situated a short walk from Simple but quaint, with Siena. This 17th-century building
Capo Sant’Andrea, the comfortable, clean rooms and has impressive frescoes and
location is hard to beat. a nice terrace. Lots to choose luxurious rooms.
from at breakfast, including
home-made cakes. VIAREGGIO: London €€
ELBA SPARTAIA: Desiree €€ Rooms with a view
Rooms with a view PISA: Royal Victoria Hotel €€ Viale Daniele Manin 16, 55049
Spartaia, Procchio, 57030 Historic Tel 0584 498 41
Tel 0565 90 73 11 Lungarno Antonio Pacinotti ∑ www.hotellondon.it
∑ htdesiree.it 12, 56126 Simple, comfortable rooms and
Guests enjoy clean rooms and Tel 050 94 01 11 an elegant lobby. Located a short
private beach access at this ∑ royalvictoria.it walk from the sea.
comfortable hotel. Housed in a 10th-century tower,
Pisa’s very first hotel has stately VOLTERRA: Villa Rioddi €
LUCCA: Piccolo Hotel Puccini € decor and spacious rooms. Historic
Pensione Strada Provinciale del Monte
Via di Poggio 9, 55100 PISA: Relais dell’Orologio €€€ Volterrano 71, 56048
Tel 0583 554 21 Historic Tel 0588 880 53
∑ hotelpuccini.com Via della Faggiola 12, 56126 ∑ hotelvillarioddi.it
Facing Piazza Cittadella and the Tel 050 83 03 61 This medieval 15th-century villa
statue of Puccini, this hotel is ∑ hotelrelaisorologio.com offers excellent amenities, views
perfectly located to get a taste Built into a 14th-century tower, and a sumptuous breakfast.
of Italian street life. The prices this hotel has elegant rooms
may be low, but you get warm and a delightful reading room. VOLTERRA: Marcampo €€
service and charming rooms. Enjoy breakfast on the veranda. Agriturismo
Località San Cipriano, Podere
MONTEPULCIANO: SAN GIMIGNANO: Marcampo 30, 56048
San Biagio € Bel Soggiorno € Tel 0588 853 93
Budget Budget ∑ agriturismo-marcampo.com
Via San Bartolomeo 2, 53045 Via San Giovanni 91, 53037 The pool boasts vineyards views
Tel 0578 71 72 33 Tel 0577 94 03 75 in this tranquil slice of Tuscan
∑ albergosanbiagio.it ∑ hotelbelsoggiorno.it paradise with just six rooms.
Located just outside of the town Run by the same family since
with glorious views, this hotel has 1886, this is a comfortable and
comfortable and neat rooms and well-priced hotel with an
a heated swimming pool. excellent restaurant. Umbria
MONTERIGGIONI: SAN GIMIGNANO: ASSISI: Sole €
Borgo Gallinaio €€ Leon Bianco €€ Budget
Agriturismo Rooms with a view Corso Giuseppe Mazzini 35, 06081
Strada del Gallinaio 5, 53035 Piazza Cisterna 13, 53037 Tel 075 81 23 73
Tel 0577 30 47 51 Tel 0577 94 12 94 ∑ assisihotelsole.com
∑ gallinaio.it ∑ leonbianco.com The Sole offers basic but spacious
This converted 15th-century Elegant rooms with spectacular rooms in a centrally located 15th-
stone-built farm house is views of the hillside piazza or century building. There are great
surrounded by cypress and olive the countryside. Excellent views over the countryside and
trees. There is an outdoor pool. breakfast served on the terrace. excellent service.
For more information on types of hotels see pp558–61
562-577_EW_Italy.indd 571 4/5/17 9:32 AM

572  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ASSISI: Le Dimore di PERUGIA: Brufani Palace €€€ ASCOLI PICENO: Pennile €
San Crispino €€ Luxury Budget
Romantic Piazza Italia 12, 06121 Via Gaetano Spalvieri 1, 63100
Via Sant’Agnese, 06081 Tel 075 573 25 41 Tel 0736 416 45
Tel 075 804 32 57 ∑ brufanipalace.com ∑ www.hotelpennile.it
∑ assisibenessere.it Sumptuous accommodation, This hotel charges reasonable
In addition to classically plus a roof garden with views prices for simple but well-kept
decorated rooms, this hotel offers of the town and countryside. rooms. All rooms feature air
a spa, gardens and a restaurant. conditioning and Wi-Fi,
SPOLETO: Hotel Aurora € plus a balcony.
GUBBIO: La Cinciallegre € Budget
Agriturismo Via dell’Apollinare 3, 06049 DK Choice
Fraz. Pisciano, 06024 Tel 0743 22 03 15
Tel 345 062 52 29 ∑ hotelauroraspoleto.it ASCOLI PICENO:
∑ lecinciallegre.it Comfortable rooms and great Villa Cicchi €€
This is a jewel hidden in the service at this central but quiet Agriturismo
countryside. Small but cosy family-run hotel. Via Salaria Superiore 137, 63100
rooms, plus great food made Tel 0736 25 22 72
on the farm. Try the quince jam. SPOLETO: San Luca €€ ∑ villacicchi.it
Boutique A meticulously presented
NORCIA: Casale nel Parco Via Interna delle Mura 21, 06049 villa is at the heart of this
dei Monti Sibillini € Tel 0743 22 33 99 agriturismo that combines
Agriturismo ∑ hotelsanluca.com luxury accommodation with
Vocabolo Fontevena 8, 06046 Sophisticated elegance in one of rustic hospitality. There are
Tel 0743 81 64 81 the loveliest palaces in Spoleto. magni ficent grounds, a large
∑ casalenelparco.com Excellent breakfast buffet. pool, period furniture and
Countryside retreat amid frescoed ceilings. Activities
amazing scenery, with canopy TODI CANONICA: Tenuta include trekking, wine tasting,
beds and wood-beamed ceilings. di Canonica €€ cooking and photo graphy
Don’t miss the local delights from Agriturismo courses and yoga.
the kitchen. Vocabolo Casalzetta 75, 06059
Tel 075 894 75 45
ORVIETO: Filippeschi € ∑ tenutadicanonica.com PESARO: Bellevue €
Budget Sublime country residence on Resort
Via Filippeschi 19, 05018 the site of a 9th-century farm. Viale Trieste 88, 61121
Tel 0763 34 32 75 Superb location. Tel 0721 690 18
∑ albergofilippeschi.it ∑ bellevuehotel.net
Stay in basic but comfortable Great value at this simple but
rooms in the historic centre. accommodating beach resort
Spacious lobby. Le Marche with a pool. A range of child-
friendly activities makes it very
ORVIETO: La Badia €€ ANCONA: Grand Hotel Palace €€ suitable for families.
Historic Historic
Località La Badia 8, 05018 Lungomare Luigi Vanvitelli 24, 60121 DK Choice
Tel 0763 30 19 59 Tel 071 207 35 90
∑ labadiahotel.it ∑ hotelancona.it PESARO: Alexander
This breathtaking hotel is built Old-world elegance at this grand Museum Palace Hotel €€
into the ruins of an 8th-century 17th-century portside palazzo. Historic
monastery, exquisitely restored Helpful and efficient staff. Viale Trieste 20, 61121
and decorated with antiques. Tel 0721 344 41
∑ alexandermuseum.it
ORVIETO: Locanda Pallazone €€ As the name implies, this
Agriturismo unique accommodation is
Località Rocca Ripesena 66, 05018 part museum, part hotel. Both
Tel 0763 39 36 14 established and emerging
∑ locandapalazzone.it Italian artists have collaborated
Elegant accommodation in to transform this elegant hotel
a former cardinal’s residence into a literal work of art. Each
located on top of a hill, in the room is different and every
middle of vineyards. Spacious single design element, from
rooms and terrific views. the colours to the chairs and
floors, is one of a kind. The sea
PERUGIA: Castello di views are a bonus.
Monterone €€
Historic
Strada Montevile 3, 06126 SAN MARINO: Hotel Joli €
Tel 075 572 42 14 Pensione
∑ castellomonterone.com Viale Federico d’Urbino 36 B, 47890
This historic building is located Tel 0549 99 10 09
in stunning grounds. Luxurious ∑ hoteljoli.sm
rooms and two first-class This pet-friendly, family hotel
restaurants are among the Luxuriously decorated room in the Locanda offers nice rooms and a warm
many things to enjoy here. Pallazone in Orvieto atmosphere. Parking is provided.
Key to prices see p562
562-577_EW_Italy.indd 572 4/5/17 9:32 AM

WHERE T O ST A Y  573

SAN MARINO: Cesare €€
Boutique
Salita alla Rocca 7, 47890
Tel 0549 99 23 55
∑ hotelcesare.com
This hotel blends convenience
with refined elegance. Rooms
are clean and bright. The staff
are very attentive.
URBINO: Cà Andreana €
Agriturismo
Via Cà Andreana 2, 61029
Tel 0722 32 78 45
∑ caandreana.it
This farmstay is located in a
magnificent country setting
with stunning views. Rooms
are quaint and well presented. Glass walls of the Alexander Museum Palace Hotel in Pesaro
URBINO: Raffaello € Around Piazza Navona St George Hotel €€
Rooms with a view Albergo Santa Chiara €€ Luxury Map 9 A3
Via Santa Margherita 38, 61029 Boutique Map 10 D3 Via Giulia 62, 00186
Tel 0722 47 84 Via di Santa Chiara 21, 00186 Tel 06 68 66 11
∑ albergoraffaello.com Tel 06 687 29 79 ∑ hotelindigorome.com
Situated near the famous artist’s ∑ albergosantachiara.com The decor at this elegant hotel
childhood home. Rooms are The lobby is the most impressive combines Old Masters’ paintings
simple but inviting. section of this hotel; the rooms with art from the 1960s and ’70s.
are pleasant, with all mod cons,
but don’t compare. Enjoy a drink Teatro di Pompeo €€
in the alfresco bar. Historic Map 9 C4
Rome Largo del Pallaro 8, 00186
Campo de’ Fiori Hotel €€ Tel 06 68 30 01 70
The Ancient Centre Rooms with a view Map 9 C4 ∑ hotelteatrodipompeo.it
Fortyseven €€ Via del Biscione 6, 00186 Built on the ruins of Pompey’s
Rooms with a view Map 6 E1 Tel 06 68 80 68 65 ancient theatre, this hotel has
Via Luigi Petroselli 47, 00186 ∑ hotelcampodefiori.com simple rooms and friendly staff.
Tel 06 678 78 16 Romantically decorated rooms
∑ fortysevenhotel.com with refined furnishings, and Teatropace33 €€
Stellar views of the ancient city views of rooftops and domes. Rooms with a view Map 9 C3
from this retro-styled hotel. Via del Teatro Pace 33, 00186
Elegant rooms; there are two Casa di Santa Brigida €€ Tel 06 687 90 75
suites, both with private terraces. Religious institution Map 9 B4 ∑ hotelteatropace.com
Piazza Farnese 96, 00186 Excellent price-quality ratio
Hotel Forum €€ Tel 06 68 89 25 96 at this charming Baroque-style
Rooms with a view Map 3 B5 ∑ brigidine.org hotel with elegant decor.
Via Tor de’ Conti 25, 00184 Although this is not the cheapest
Tel 06 679 24 46 convent in town, the central Grand Hotel de la Minerve €€€
∑ hotelforum.com location is well worth the price. Luxury Map 10 D3
Enjoy magnificent views of Rooms are clean and spacious, Piazza della Minerva 69, 00186
ancient Rome from a charming and there is a sunny terrace. Tel 06 69 52 01
terrace. Graceful interiors and ∑ grandhoteldelaminerve.com
plenty of old-world charm. Hotel Sole al Excellent views from nearly every
Pantheon €€ room. The decor is luxurious and
Nicolas Inn €€ Rooms with a view Map 10 D3 the service is excellent.
B&B Map 3 B5 Piazza della Rotonda 63, 00186
Via Cavour 295, 00184 Tel 06 678 04 41 Raphael €€€
Tel 328 555 3004 ∑ solealpantheonrome.com Romantic Map 9 C2
∑ nicolasinn.com Gorgeous terracotta floors, Largo Febo 2, 00186
Basic service, but the rooms are frescoes on the ceilings and Tel 06 68 28 31
pleasant and cosy, and all have unparalleled views of the ∑ raphaelhotel.com
en-suite bathrooms. The hosts bustling Piazza Navona, if you The ivy-covered façade is the
are warm and friendly. don’t mind the noise. trademark of this hotel with
gorgeous decor and a terrace.
Palazzo Manfredi €€€ Locanda Cairoli €€
Rooms with a view Map 7 A1 Boutique Map 10 D4 Sole al Biscione €€€
Via Labicana 125, 00184 Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 2, 00186 Historic Map 9 C4
Tel 06 77 59 13 80 Tel 06 68 80 92 78 Via del Biscione 76, 00186
∑ palazzomanfredi.com ∑ hotelcairoliroma.com Tel 06 68 80 68 73
The Colosseum seems close Locanda Cairoli is a centrally ∑ hotelsoleroma.it
enough to touch at this hotel. located hotel with comfortable, This basic but charming hotel
Elegantly decorated rooms and modern rooms tastefully claims to be the oldest in Rome.
excellent service. decorated with warm colours. The rooms are spotless.
For more information on types of hotels see pp558–61
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574  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Northeast Rome
DK Choice
Beehive €
Budget Map 4 E3
Via Marghera 8, 00185
Tel 06 44 70 45 53
∑ the-beehive.com
A gem of a hotel with both
private rooms and small
dormi tories available. Some
rooms are en suite. Extras
include yoga lessons, massage
and a café serving organic
food and drinks. Charming outdoor garden area at Beehive, Northeast Rome
look. They’ll even give you a cell Aldrovandi Palace €€€
Hostel des Artistes € phone for your stay. Luxury
Budget Map 4 E2 Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15, 00197
Via Villafranca 20, 00185 es hotel €€ Tel 06 322 39 93
Tel 06 445 43 65 Rooms with a view Map 4 E4 ∑ aldrovandi.com
∑ hostelrome.com Via Filippo Turati 171, 00185 A spectacular five-star hotel with
This is a friendly hostel offering Tel 06 44 48 41 airy rooms, a swimming pool and
accommodation to suit all ∑ radissonblu.com/eshotel-rome views of the park.
budgets – anything from Splendid five-star hotel with
dorms to private rooms. Three- sleek modern design and all Babuino181 €€€
star service. white rooms. Boutique Map 2 F1
Via del Babuino 181, 00187
Aleph €€ Hotel Suisse €€ Tel 06 32 29 52 95
Luxury Map 3 B2 Pensione Map 3 A2 ∑ romeluxurysuites.com
Via di San Basilio 15, 00185 Via Gregoriana 54, 00187 Splendid modern hotel with
Tel 06 42 29 01 Tel 06 678 36 49 luxurious details, in a Renaissance
∑ hotelalephrome.com ∑ hotelsuisserome.com palace with a leafy roof terrace.
Experience modern opulence Great value at this elegantly
at this relaxing, luxurious hotel appointed hotel with 12 rooms, Eden €€€
with a spa. babysitting services and a Luxury Map 3 B2
convenient location. Via Ludovisi 49, 00187
Blue Hostel €€ Tel 06 47 81 21
Budget Map 4 D4 Locarno €€ ∑ edenroma.com
Via Carlo Alberto 13, 00185 Historic Map 2 F1 The Eden is a grand hotel that
Tel 34 09 25 85 03 Via della Penna 22, 00186 offers elegantly furnished rooms
∑ bluehostel.it Tel 06 361 08 41 and a romantic rooftop dining
A charming hotel housed in a ∑ hotellocarno.com area. Service is exceptional.
former convent in the heart of A masterpiece of Art Deco and
multicultural Esquilino. Rooms the location for many classic Exedra €€€
are clean and spacious. films, this charming hotel is Luxury Map 3 C3
situated on a quiet street not Piazza della Repubblica 47, 00185
DK Choice far from Via Condotti. Tel 06 48 93 81
∑ exedra-roma.boscolohotels.
Casa Howard €€ Piranesi €€ com
B&B Map 3 A3 Boutique Map 2 F1 Lavish five-star hotel with plush
Via di Capo le Case 18, 00187 & Via del Babuino 196, 00187 rooms, a rooftop pool and an
Via Sistina 149, 00187 Tel 06 32 80 41 award-winning spa.
Tel 06 69 92 45 55 ∑ hotelpiranesi.com
∑ casahoward.com Quiet elegance in an ideal DK Choice
This funky B&B, inspired by location. There’s a roof garden,
EM Forster’s novel Howard’s sauna and a solarium. It also has Hassler €€€
End comprises 10 uniquely a small gym. Luxury Map 3 A2
decorated rooms in two Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6,
adjacent locations, both Residenza Cellini €€ 00187
near the Spanish Steps. Pensione Map 3 C3 Tel 06 69 93 40
Impeccable elegance. Via Modena 5, 00184 ∑ hotelhasslerroma.com
Tel 06 47 82 52 04 The discreet service, plush
∑ residenzacellini.it furnishings and stunning
Daphne Trevi €€ Guests at this hotel within bedrooms make this a firm
Boutique Map 3 B2 walking distance of the favourite with celebrities.
Via degli Avignonesi 20, 00187 Colosseum enjoy large, simply Guests can also take advantage
Tel 06 89 34 57 81 furnished rooms combining of the Michelin-starred Imàgora
∑ daphne-rome.com historic interiors and modern restaurant or enjoy a cocktail in
Top-notch boutique hotel with comforts; some bathrooms the Hassler Bar.
personal service and a modern have Jacuzzi tubs.
Key to prices see p562
562-577_EW_Italy.indd 574 4/5/17 9:32 AM

WHERE T O ST A Y  575

Hotel d’Inghilterra €€€ Bramante €€ Aventine and Lateran
Romantic Map 3 A2 Historic Map 1 C3 Domus Aventina €
Via Bocca di Leone 14, 00187 Vicolo delle Palline 24, 00193 Budget Map 5 E2
Tel 06 69 98 11 Tel 06 68 80 64 26 Via di Santa Prisca 11b, 00153
∑ hoteldinghilterra.com ∑ hotelbramante.com Tel 06 574 61 35
Spacious accommodation in In the shadow of St Peter’s, this ∑ hoteldomusaventina.com
an enviable location near the family-run hotel has quiet and Simple but elegant rooms open
Spanish Steps. All the rooms and tasteful rooms. onto a lush courtyard. Rooms
suites are individually styled. are quiet, and a number of
attractions are in easy walking
Portrait Roma €€€ DK Choice distance. Staff are welcoming
Boutique Map 3 A2 Donna Camilla Savelli €€ and helpful.
Via Bocca di Leone 23, 00187 Romantic Map 5 B1
Tel 06 69 38 07 42 Via Garibaldi 27, 00153 Hotel San Anselmo €€
∑ lungarnocollection.com Tel 06 58 88 61 Romantic Map 6 E3
Accommodation with style; this ∑ hoteldonnacamillasavelli.com Piazza San Anselmo 2, 00153
hotel is owned by famed shoe Designed by Baroque genius Tel 06 57 00 57
designer Salvatore Ferragamo’s Borromini, this meticulously ∑ aventinohotels.com
family, and it shows. restored monastery still belongs Four-poster beds and claw-foot
to the nuns of the original baths are available at this simple
Westin Excelsior €€€ order, but is now a four-star hotel. and graceful hotel, on a
Romantic Map 3 B2 The cloister is a calm oasis in the residential street and close to
Via Veneto 125, 00187 heart of the bustling city. many restaurants and sights.
Tel 06 470 81 There is also a lovely courtyard.
∑ westinrome.com Parking is free.
This favourite with honeymooners Relais Casa della Fornarina €€
is the perfect place to enact la Historic Map 2 D5 Villa San Pio €€
dolce vita. Via di Porta Settimiana 7, 00153 Romantic Map 6 E3
Tel 06 64 56 22 68 Via Santa Melania 19, 00153
∑ casadellafornarina.com Tel 06 57 00 57
The Vatican and This is the guesthouse where ∑ aventinohotels.com
Trastevere Raphael’s muse once lived. Quiet and secluded, but located
Spacious rooms and good service. conveniently in the city centre.
Casa Internazionale delle Good breakfasts and drinks in
Donne € Residenza Arco dei Tolomei €€ the lovely garden.
Budget Map 2 D5 Boutique Map 6 D1
Via San Francesco di Sales 1A, 00165 Via dell’Arco de’ Tolomei 26C, 00153
Tel 06 689 37 53 Tel 06 58 32 08 19
∑ casainternazionale ∑ inrome.info Lazio
delledonne.org With classic furnishings, this tiny
This women-only hotel offers hotel offers a peaceful stay and BRACCIANO: Villa Clementina
basic rooms in quiet and central cosy atmosphere. Regal breakfast. Spa & Resort €€
Trastevere and also has a good Spa hotel
restaurant. Sant’Anna €€ Traversa Quarto del Lago 12, 00062
Boutique Map 1 C3 Tel 06 998 62 68
Centro Diffusione Borgo Pio 134, 00193 ∑ hotelvillaclementina.it
Spiritualità € Tel 06 68 80 16 02 Sleep in beautifully frescoed
Religious institution Map 2 D5 ∑ santannahotel.net rooms and relax in the lush
Via dei Riari 44, 00153 Modern convenience with an grounds, featuring a large
Tel 06 68 80 61 22 old-world feel. Rooms are large, pool, a tennis court and a
∑ villaiari.it and there is a pleasant courtyard. wellness centre.
Budget accommodation
including breakfast and dinner. CERVETERI L’Isola di Rosa €
There is an 11pm curfew. Spa hotel
Via del Grano 20, 00052
Hotel Trastevere € Tel 334 218 39 98 or 335 535 54 48
Budget Map 5 C1 ∑ isoladirosa.com
Via Luciano Manara 24, 00153 An old manor house with
Tel 06 581 47 13 well-appointed rooms, L’Isola
∑ hoteltrastevere.net di Rosa is situated amid the
Rooms are simple, clean and Mediterranean shrub forest
spacious at this hotel that offers and very close to the sea.
good value for money. Good
breakfast buffet. FRASCATI: Poggio Regillo €
Agriturismo
Arco del Lauro €€ Via Pietra Porzia 30, 00044
B&B Map 6 D1 Tel 06 941 78 00
Via dell’Arco de’ Tolomei 27, 00153 ∑ poggioregillo.it
Tel 06 97 84 03 50 This environmentally friendly
∑ arcodellauro.it hotel offers excellent value for
Tiny hotel in a picturesque money. There is also a self-
medieval location, with simple Chic and comfortable sitting area at Portrait catering apartment for longer
but lovely rooms. Roma, northeast Rome stays. Pets are welcome.
For more information on types of hotels pp558–61
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576  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SPERLONGA: La Nave €€ CAPRI: Grand Hotel
Rooms with a view Naples and Quisisana €€€
Via Salette 24, 04029 Campania Luxury
Tel 0771 55 71 98 Via Camerelle 2, 80073
∑ hotellanave.it Tel 081 837 07 88
This charming beachside hotel AMALFI COAST: Hotel Desirée € ∑ quisisana.com
offers simple but comfortable Rooms with a view Deluxe accommodation in an
bungalows and has a marvellous Via Capo 31, Sorrento, 80067 extraordinary setting, at the
garden in which to relax. Tel 081 878 15 63 top of a picturesque street full
∑ desireehotelsorrento.com of artisanal workshops.
TARQUINIA: Casale Poggio This simple, cliff-side hotel a short
Nebbia € walk from the centre of Sorrento CASERTA: Amadeus €
Agriturismo offers excellent value. There’s an Boutique
S.S. Aurelia km 84, 100, Loc. eleva tor to a small private beach. Via Giuseppe Verdi 72/76, 81100
Farnesiana, 01016 Tel 0823 35 26 63
Tel 0766 84 12 68 AMALFI COAST: Miramare €€ ∑ hotelamadeuscaserta.it
∑ poggionebbia.it Rooms with a view The Amadeus is a centrally
Relaxing farmstay nestled in a Via Trara Genoino, Positano, 84017 located, comfortable hotel
valley and popular with Italians. Tel 089 87 50 02 with spacious rooms.
Ideal for families, it offers great ∑ miramarepositano.it
views from the Tolfa Mountains Rooms are brightly decorated DK Choice
up to Tyrrhenian Sea. and have picture-perfect views
looking out over Positano and ISCHIA AND PROCIDA:
TIVOLI: Palazzo Maggiore € the ocean beyond. Miramare Sea Resort
B&B & Spa €€
Via Domenico Giuliani 89, 00019 AMALFI COAST: Bellevue Spa hotel
Tel 393 10 44 937 Syrene €€€ Via Maddalena Comandante
∑ palazzomaggiore.com Luxury 29, Sant’Angelo, 80070
This attractive hotel furnished Piazza della Vittoria 5, Sorrento, 80067 Tel 081 99 92 19
with antiques is situated in the Tel 081 878 10 24 ∑ miramaresearesort.it
heart of town and provides ∑ bellevue.it This gorgeous old-world hotel
the perfect base from which A dreamy 18th-century villa on is perched on the rocks right
to explore Tivoli. Breakfast the cliffs of Sorrento, facing over the Tyrrhenian Sea. The
can be enjoyed on the Mount Vesuvius and the sea. lovely rooms, most with canopy
pleasant terrace. Private beach access. beds and balconies, all face the
sea. A short walk leads to the spa
TIVOLI: Grand Hotel Duca AMALFI COAST: La Sirenuse €€€ complex with thermal pools and
d’Este €€ Luxury a private beach. The ample
Business Via Cristoforo Colombo 30, Positano, break fast is served on a flowering
Via Tiburtina Valeria 330, 00019 84017 terrace with spectacular views.
Tel 0774 38 83 Tel 089 87 50 66
∑ ducadeste.com ∑ sirenuse.it
Large, comfortable hotel with a This intimate, world-class hotel NAPLES: Decumani €€
fully equipped wellness centre offers spectacular views of Historic
that uses the area’s renowned Sorrento and the coast. Via del Grande Archivio 8, 80100
geothermal waters. Tel 081 420 13 79 or 081 410 91 44
CAPRI: Bellavista €€ ∑ palazzodecumani.com
VITERBO: Niccolò V €€ Boutique Tasteful furnishings and elegant
Spa hotel Via Giuseppe Orlandi 10, 80071 bathrooms in a Baroque palace
Strada Bagni 12, 01100 Tel 081 837 14 63 or 081 837 18 21 amid the colourful streets of the
Tel 0761 35 01 ∑ bellavistacapri.com city centre.
∑ termedeipapi.it Enjoy the spectacular views from
Historic thermal baths and this pleasant 1960s-style hotel NAPLES: Grand Hotel
wellness centre in an elegant in Anacapri, on a cliff that, in Vesuvio €€€
four-star hotel. ancient times, was a watchtower. Rooms with a view
Via Partenope 45, 80121
Tel 081 764 00 44
∑ vesuvio.it
Sumptuous lodgings with views
of the gulf and Castel dell’Ovo.
A pool, sauna and Turkish baths
are available.
SALERNO: Hotel dei Templi €€
B&B
Via Tavernelle 64, 84063
Tel 082 881 17 47
∑ www.hoteldeitempli.it
Stylish hotel located just minutes
from the ruined temples at
Paestum. The modern furnishings
are perfectly integrated with the
Luxury suite at the Grand Hotel Vesuvio in Naples old architecture.
Key to prices see p562
562-577_EW_Italy.indd 576 4/5/17 10:41 AM

WHERE T O ST A Y  577


Abruzzo, Molise and
Puglia

DK Choice
ALBEROBELLO: B&B
Fascino Antico €
Historic
Strada Statale 172, 74015
Tel 080 432 50 89
∑ fascinoanticotrulli.com
At this charming B&B, you can
lodge in a 19th-century hut
without losing the comforts of
a modern holiday. Surrounded
by centuries- old olive trees, the The stunning Art Deco style Villa las Tronas in Alghero, Sardinia
stone-built apart ments face
a large court yard, and there is DK Choice PALERMO: Principe di
an outdoor pool. Villafranca €€€
MATERA: Sassi Hotel € Luxury
Historic Via Giuseppina Turrisi Colonna 4,
BARI: Boston € Via San Giovanni Vecchio 89, 75100 90141
Business Tel 0835 33 10 09 Tel 091 611 85 23
Via Niccolò Piccinni 155, 70122 ∑ hotelsassi.it ∑ principedivillafranca.it
Tel 080 521 66 33 Matera’s famous rock dwellings Elegant hotel full of intricate
∑ bostonbari.it make an evocative setting for details and antique art and
Guests at the Boston enjoy this one-of-a-kind hotel. Each furnishings. A perfect mix of
functional and comfortable room is carved into the the old and the new.
rooms in a convenient location. moun tain, with distinctive
vaulted stone ceilings and
ISOLE TREMITI: Baely Resort €€ pano ramic views of the medi-
Resort eval town below. Simple and Sardinia
Via Matteotti, 71040 classic furnishings enhance the
Tel 0882 46 37 67 natural elements of the 18th- ALGHERO: Villa las Tronas €€€
∑ baely.it century building. Spa hotel
Intimate hotel with comfortable, Lungomare Valencia 1, 07041
distinctively decorated rooms. Tel 079 98 18 18
Free transport is provided from TROPEA: Cala di Volpe €€ ∑ hotelvillalastronas.it
and to the port, and there Resort There are scenic views at this
is a special buffet breakfast. Località Torre Marino, 89865 elegant hotel, with indoor and
Tel 0963 66 92 22 or 0963 66 96 99 outdoor pools, a Turkish bath
L’AQUILA: Magione Papale €€ ∑ caladivolpe.it and sauna. Open all year round.
Boutique A beautiful seaside resort
Via Porta Napoli 67, 67100 surrounded by a lush tropical CAGLIARI: T Hotel €€
Tel 0862 41 49 83 or 0862 42 21 94 garden. Perfect for families Design
∑ magionepapale.it thanks to the proximity to the Via dei Giudicati 66, 09131
Housed in a restored mill, this beach and an amusement park. Tel 070 474 00
quaint country inn has plenty ∑ thotel.it
of character. Modern design hotel with large
rooms and a fitness centre. Ideal
Sicily for business travellers.
Basilicata and AGRIGENTO: Camere del Sud € COSTA SMERALDA: Nibaru €€
Calabria B&B Resort
Via Ficani, 92100 Località Cala di Volpe
Tel 349 638 44 24 Tel 0789 960 38
MARATEA: La Locanda ∑ camereasud.it ∑ hotelnibaru.it
delle Donne Monache €€ Warm, simple rooms decorated A tranquil oasis a short walk from
Romantic with local art in this sunny B&B the sea. Rooms are comfortable
Via Carlo Mazzei 4, 85046 with friendly, helpful owners. On and clean, and there is a lovely
Tel 0973 87 61 39 the top floor there is a terrace pool. A wide range of
∑ locandamonache.com that offers views over the city. watersports is on offer.
There are spacious, bright rooms
with four-poster beds at this ERICE: Elimo €€ COSTA SMERALDA: Pitrizza €€€
18th-century former convent. Rooms with a view Luxury
One room has a distinctive Via Vittorio Emanuele 75, 91016 Via Nazionale 35, 07020
bathroom that is literally carved Tel 0923 86 93 77 Tel 0789 93 01 11
out of the rock. There is also a ∑ hotelelimo.it ∑ pitrizzahotel.com
panoramic swimming pool Small but lovely rooms with pano- The Pitrizza is a grand hotel with
with Jacuzzi. Cooking lessons ramic views of the countryside. fabulous amenities and
can be arranged on request. Every room has a balcony. breathtaking views.
For more information on types of hotels pp558–61
562-577_EW_Italy.indd 577 4/5/17 9:32 AM

578  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Food is a serious subject in Italy. The Italians which serves the local clientele, will often
are justly proud of their fine cuisine and produce a better meal than the nearby inter­
wines and many sociable hours are spent national restaurant. However, whether
around the table. One of the great pleasures it is a crowded osteria, a local pizzeria or
of travelling in Italy is sampling regional a terrace with sea views, this introduction
variations in pasta, breads and cheeses. You gives plenty of practical tips on types of
don’t have to head to the most expensive restaurants, ordering and service to help
places for good food; a simple trattoria, you enjoy eating out in Italy.
Places to Eat
Traditionally a trattoria and an
osteria are cheaper and more
casual alternatives to the
smarter ristorante.
A pizzeria is usually a cheap
place to eat (as little as €18 with
beer) and many serve pasta,
meat and fish dishes as well as
pizzas. Pizzerias are often open
in the evening only, especially
those with wood-fired ovens
(forno a legna).
A birreria is another cheap
option, serving pasta and snacks
such as sausages and burgers. A restaurant in Chioggia offering a cosy environment in a vaulted room
An enoteca, or vineria, will offer
a selection of wines to try, along serve simple hot dishes from summer holiday season; this
with a range of light dishes. the tavola calda counter for information will be included in
Prices vary and tend to be around €8. the list of restaurants on the
relatively expensive for the Stop at a gelateria for ice cream, pages that follow, but phone
quantities served. with a sometimes bewildering first if in doubt.
At lunchtime and in the early choice of different flavours, or a
evening, rosticcerie sell roast pasticceria for one of a dazzling
chicken, slices of pizza (pizza variety of sweet and savoury The Menu
al taglio) and other snacks to pastries, cakes and biscuits. Italian meals consist of three or
take away. Pizza al taglio can four courses, and restaurants
also be bought straight from generally expect patrons to
the baker. Many bars offer filled Opening Times order at least two, though you
rolls (panini) and sandwiches Lunch is generally served should not feel obliged to do so.
(tramezzini), and some also between 12:30pm and 2:30pm The antipasto (starter), is
and, particularly in the south, all followed by the primo, of pasta,
other activity stops between rice or soup. The secondo is the
these hours. Dinner is at about main meat or fish course, for
7:30pm and goes on until 11pm which you will need to order
or later (in the south, eating vegetables (contorni) separately.
hours tend to be later). It is not Fruit (frutta), cheese (formaggi)
unusual to see tables still full from or dessert (dolce) follow, with
lunch at 4pm or diners sipping coffee and the preferred digestivo
digestivi well after midnight. of the region to finish the meal.
Menus usually change with
the season to make use of the
Reservations
freshest local produce, and the
Good restaurants in Italy are day’s specials may be recited to
likely to be popular, so book a you by the waiter rather than
table in advance if you can written down. Persevere, if you
(prenotazione). Otherwise, get don’t immediately understand,
there early to avoid having to using the menu information at
queue. Many restaurants close the beginning of each section.
Villa Crespi in Piedmont, inspired by one day a week and for a few Try to avoid restaurants that do
The Arabian Nights (see p588) weeks in either winter or the not state prices on their menus.




578-579_EW_Italy.indd 578 4/5/17 9:32 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.1)
Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  579

Vegetarians
Italian restaurants offer plenty of
choices for vegetarians, as the
menu will always feature a
selection of seasonal vegetables
and pulses. Many pasta and
antipasto dishes use no meat at
all and for a main course you can
ask for an omelette (frittata) with
a side dish of vegetables from
the contorni. Most menus are
adaptable because dishes are Diners enjoying a meal alfresco in Chianti, Tuscany
prepared to order – tell your
waiter that you are vegetariano Dress Wheelchair Access
(female – vegetariana) and they Italians generally tend to look Few restaurants have special
will advise you accordingly. smart but don’t necessarily facilities for people in
expect visitors to do the same. wheelchairs, but if you book
However, very scruffy or dirty in advance the establishment
Wine and Drinks clothes are unlikely to get you can reserve a suitable table and
Many regions have their own good, efficient or particularly be ready to help if necessary
aperitivo served before the meal friendly service. when you arrive.
and a digestivo for afterwards.
Universal alternatives are
prosecco (dry, fizzy white wine) Children
or an analcolico (non-alcoholic) Children are welcome in all but
aperitif, and grappa as a digestif. the smartest establishment and
House wine (red or white) will restaurants are likely to be filled
be a simple local wine served by with extensive Italian families
the litre or by the glass and will for Sunday lunch. Facilities such
generally be perfectly palatable. as highchairs or special menus
In addition, all but the cheapest are rare, but most places will
eateries have a range of other provide a small or half portion
local and regional wines specially (mezza porzione).
selected to accompany the food
on the menu, with smarter
establishments also offering Smoking The charming interior of U’Giancu in
foreign vintages. Smoking is still popular in Italy. Rapallo, Liguria (see p590)
Tap water (acqua del rubinetto) However, smoking laws now Recommended
is always drinkable and often mean that all restaurants in
very good, but Italy has a large the country are non-smoking Restaurants
range of mineral waters. Fizzy establishments. Unless a The restaurants listed in this
ones (frizzante) may contain smokers’ room is provided, guidebook cover a wide range of
carbon dioxide, while naturale you should step outside if you eateries, from the simple pizzeria
can mean still or naturally want to light up. and tavola calda (cafeteria) to
sparkling. If you particularly family-run trattoria and elegant
want a still water, ask for non ristorante. Each restaurant has a
gassata. Espresso bars usually cuisine type listed beneath the
charge more for table service. name of the establishment. Most
of these descriptions are self-
explanatory but the Places to Eat
Paying section (opposite) will provide
Tax and service are usually more information on what you
included in the menu prices, can expect from the menu.
but it is normal to leave a tip of The DK Choice label indicates
around 10 per cent. Note that a restaurant that has out-
many restaurants include a cover standing qualities and is highly
charge (coperto) on the bill (il recommended. It may serve
conto), which covers bread delicious local dishes, offer
(whether you eat it or not) and excellent value for money, be in
is charged per person. a beautiful location, have a
Credit cards are not always romantic atmosphere or be
accepted in Italy, particularly in particularly charming. Whatever
smaller towns, so it is wise to Outdoor tables at the seafood restaurant the reason, it is a guarantee of
check before you order. Il Riccio on Capri (see p600) a great meal.




578-579_EW_Italy.indd 579 4/5/17 9:32 AM

580  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

CANNAREGIO: Price Guide
Venice Osteria l’Orto dei Mori €€ Prices are based on a three-course meal
Regional Italian Map 2 F3 per person, with a half-bottle of house
BURANO: Da Romano €€ Campo dei Mori 3386, 30121 wine, including tax and service.
Seafood Tel 041 524 36 77 Closed Tue; 3 wks € up to €40
Via Piazza Galuppi 221, 30012 Jul, 3 wks Nov €€ €40 to €75
Tel 041 73 00 30 Closed Tue; Oct– This off-the-beaten-track osteria €€€ over €75
Apr: dinner; May–Sep: Sun dinner has a refined take on local cuisine.
A wide range of fish dishes is Elegant Modernist interiors. Diners enjoy a menu of fresh
served in the traditional Venetian fish and locally grown organic
fashion at this historic restaurant. CANNAREGIO: Osteria vegetables at this restaurant
Advance booking advised. al Timon €€ with an interesting wine list.
Regional Italian Map 2 E3
DORSODURO: Ai Gondolieri €€
DK Choice Fondamenta Ormesini 2754, 30121 Regional Italian Map 6 F4
Tel 041 524 60 66
Closed lunch;
BURANO-MAZZORBO: Wed; 2 wks Oct San Vio 366, 30123
Venissa €€€ Fantastic range of cicchetti (small Tel 041 528 63 96 Closed Tue;
Modern Italian plates) to accompany a glass of lunch Jul–Aug; 25 Dec.
Fondamenta Santa Caterina 3, wine, but also good meat dishes. Regional meat and vegetable
30170 dishes are served with flair at
Tel 041 527 22 81 Closed Tue; CANNAREGIO: Vini da Gigio €€ this canalside restaurant.
Nov–Mar Regional Italian Map 3 A4
Dine at the elegant Venissa Fondamenta San Felice 3628a, DORSODURO: La Rivista €€
restaurant for an extra special 30121 Modern Italian Map 6 E4
gastronomic experience. The Tel 041 528 51 40 Closed Mon, Tue; Rio Terrà Foscarini 979/a, 30123
menu features a wide selection 2 wks Aug Tel 041 240 14 25 Closed Mon
of seafood, meat and vegetarian The menu largely depends on A welcoming restaurant offering
options using fresh, seasonal what Rialto market has to offer salads and cold platters for lunch.
ingredients grown in the that morning. Booking is advised. In fine weather, it is possible to
restaurant’s own garden. eat alfresco.
The menu changes daily. CASTELLO:
Ristorante Giorgione € GIUDECCA:
Regional Italian Map 8 F3 Trattoria Altanella €€
CANNAREGIO: Via Garibaldi 1533, 30122 Regional Italian
Trattoria da Gigio € Tel 041 522 87 27 Closed Wed Rio del Ponte Lungo 268, 33035
Regional Italian Map 2 D3 Great neighbourhood trattoria Tel 041 522 7780 Closed Mon, Tue;
Rio Terrà San Leonardo 1594, 30121 serving flavoursome fish dishes, 4 wks Dec–Jan
Tel 041 71 75 74 Closed Sun, including lasagne and risotto. A charming canalside restaurant
Mon dinner run by the same family for four
Seafood is a popular option at CASTELLO: Al Covo €€ generations.
this simple but elegant place, as Seafood Map 8 E2
are the generous hors d’oeuvres. Campiello della Pescaria 3968, 30122 GIUDECCA: Cipriani €€€
Tel 041 522 38 12 Closed Wed, Thu; Fine dining
CANNAREGIO: 2 wks Dec–Jan, 1 wk Aug Giudecca 10, 30133
Fiaschetteria Toscana €€ Tucked away behind the Tel 041 520 77 44 Closed Nov–Mar
Seafood Map 3 B5 Arsenale boat strip, Al Covo has Guests are ferried from the San
Salizzada San Giovanni Grisostomo interesting tasting menus. Marco waterfront to these
5719, 30121 exclusive island hotel restaurants.
Tel 041 528 52 81 Closed Tue, Wed CASTELLO:
lunch; 1 wk Dec Osteria di Santa Marina €€
Try the delectable warm octopus Regional Italian Map 3 B5
salad and the turbot in caper Campo Santa Marina 5911, 30122
sauce here. Book ahead. Tel 041 528 52 39 Closed Sun, Mon
lunch; 2 wks Jan
DK Choice A restaurant with a reputation for
its creative take on local cuisine.
CANNAREGIO: Osteria
da Rioba €€ CASTELLO: Da Remigio €€
Seafood Seafood Map 8 D2
Fondamenta della Misericordia Salizzada dei Greci 3416, 30122
2553, 30121 Tel 041 523 00 89 Closed Mon
Tel 041 524 43 79 Closed Mon dinner, Tue; 4 wks Dec–Jan
This charming canalside Specials at this tiny spot include
restaurant with friendly and the fish and shellfish risotto.
knowledgeable staff specializes
in fish, sourced daily from the CASTELLO: Ristorante Wildner €€
local market. Try the seafood Regional Italian Map 8 D2
mosaic. Reservations are Riva degli Schiavoni 4161, 30122
recommended. Tel 041 522 74 63 Closed Tue; Spectacular setting of one of the waterfront
7 Jan–carnival restaurants at Cipriani, Giudecca
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 580 4/5/17 9:32 AM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  581

SAN MARCO: Acqua Pazza €€
Seafood Map 7 A2
Campo Sant’Angelo 3808, 30124
Tel 041 277 06 88 Closed Mon;
7–31 Jan
This is where the Amalfi Coast
meets Venice. A different take
on fish, with wines to match.
SAN MARCO: Gran Caffè
e Ristorante Quadri €€€
Fine dining Map 7 B2
Piazza San Marco 121, 30124
Tel 041 522 21 05 Closed Mon
Fantastic historic site now in the
capable, creative hands of star
chef Massimiliano Alajmo. Tasteful interiors and charming garden at Villa Cipriani, Asolo
SAN MARCO: SANTA CROCE: In spring, local white asparagus
Trattoria Do Forni €€€ Osteria La Zucca €€ is served here with tagliatelle,
Fine dining Map 7 B2 Regional Italian Map 2 E5 in flans or in the traditional way,
Calle dei Specchieri 468, 30124 Ponte del Megio 1762, 30135 with hard­boiled eggs.
Tel 041 523 21 48 Tel 041 524 15 70 Closed Sun
Two dining areas with different A pretty canalside restaurant BASSANO DEL GRAPPA:
decors serve careful interpreta­ that is popular with Venetians Osteria Trinità €
tions of classic Venetian cuisine. as well as visitors. Regional Italian
Contrà San Giorgio 17, 36061
SAN POLO: Muro € TORCELLO: Locanda Cipriani €€ Tel 0424 50 37 00 Closed Tue dinner,
Pizzeria Map 6 E1 Fine dining Wed; 3 wks Sep–Oct
Rio Terà dei Frari 2604, 30125 Piazza Santa Fosca 29, 30012 This traditional eatery serves
Tel 041 524 53 10 Tel 041 73 01 50 Closed Tue; Jan–Feb Venetian classics such as pasta
One of two Muro pizzerias, Charming and exclusive island e fagioli (bean and pasta soup)
popular with young locals. Huge restaurant with a shady courtyard. and baccalà (salt cod).
salads also available, along with
a wide selection of beer on tap. BELLUNO:
Ristorante Terracotta €
SAN POLO: Osteria da The Veneto and Regional Italian
Fiore €€€ Friuli Borgo Garibaldi 61, 32100
Fine dining Map 6 D1 Tel 043 729 16 92 Closed Tue, Wed
Calle del Scaleter 2202, 30125 ARCO: Alla Lega € lunch
Tel 041 72 13 08 Closed Sun, Mon; Regional Italian Family­run restaurant spe cializing
8–22 Jan; 2 wks Aug Via Vergolano 8, 38062 in regional seasonal dishes.
Many consider this the city’s best Tel 046 451 62 05 Closed Nov–Apr: Delicious selection of desserts
restaurant. Serves beautifully Wed; mid-Jan–mid-Mar and an extensive wine list.
cooked seasonal produce. Lively restaurant serving traditional
fare. Housed in an 18th­century CASTELFRANCO: Barbesin €
SANTA CROCE: building with a lovely courtyard. Regional Italian
Enoteca al Prosecco € Via Montebelluna di Salva Rosa 41,
Enoteca Map 2 E5 ASOLO: Locanda Baggio € 31033
Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio Regional Italian Tel 042 349 04 46 Closed Sun dinner;
1503, 30135 Via Bassane 1, Località Casonetto, 10 days Jan, 3 wks mid-Aug
Tel 041 524 02 22 Closed Sun; 31011 Dishes based on local radicchio
3 wks Jan, Aug Tel 0423 52 96 48 Closed Mon; predominate, but there are also
Enjoy light meals indoors or Tue lunch mixed grills and salted cod in the
outside in the square, with a Changing seasonal menu with Vicenza tradition.
glass of excellent wine. innovative interpretations of
local dishes. Cooking classes CHIOGGIA: Osteria Penzo €€
SANTA CROCE: Il Rèfolo € are also available. Seafood
Pizzeria Map 8 E2 Calle Larga Bersaglio 525, 30015
Campo del Piovan 1459, 30135 ASOLO: Villa Cipriani €€ Tel 041 40 09 92 Closed Mon, Tue
Tel 041 524 00 16 Closed Mon Fine dining The place for traditional fare
Set in a picturesque square, this Via Canova 298, 31011 such as squid with peas or
modern establishment serves Tel 0423 52 34 11 gnocchi with onions, mussels
innovative gourmet pizzas. A hotel restaurant offering and red chicory.
creative cuisine, and overlooking
SANTA CROCE: a glorious garden with breath­ CHIOGGIA: La Taverna €€
Antiche Carampane €€ taking views of the hills below. Seafood
Seafood Map 2 F5 Via Felice Cavallotti 348, 30015
Rio Terà Carampane 1911, 30125 BASSANO DEL GRAPPA: Tel 041 40 18 06 Closed Wed; mid-
Tel 041 524 01 65 Closed Sun, Mon; Antico Ristorante Cardellino € Jan–mid-Feb (open daily in Aug)
2 wks Jan, 3 wks Aug Regional Italian Classic seafood dishes in an
Seek out this local favourite for Via Bella Vitis 17, 36061 elegant setting. The outdoor
great fish and pasta dishes. Tel 042 422 01 44 Closed Thu tables look over the main square.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 581 4/5/17 9:32 AM

582  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

CIVIDALE DEL FRIULI: One of the oldest restaurants in Elegant takes on local dishes with
Al Castello €€ the Valpolicella. All pasta, bread seasonal ingredients. Try the
Regional Italian and pastries are made on-site. mushroom polenta in autumn.
Via del Castello 12, 33043
Tel 043 273 32 42 Closed Wed; GARDA: MONTECCHIA DI CROSARA:
2 weeks Aug Locanda San Vigilio €€ Ristorante Cassandra €€
Set in a magnificent castle, the Traditional Italian Regional Italian
menu here boasts traditional Punta San Vigilio, 37016 Via Cabalao 11, 37030
dishes and fine local wines. Tel 045 725 66 88 Closed mid-Nov– Tel 045 745 02 22 Closed Mon, Tue;
end Mar 2 wks mid-Aug
CONEGLIANO: Al Salisa €€ Five centuries of experience in A refined country restaurant
Regional Italian delighting guests with excellent with a modern, interesting menu
Via XX Settembre 2–4, 31015 food, wine and gorgeous views. and an outstanding wine list.
Tel 0438 242 88 Closed Wed
An elegant restaurant housed in GRADO: Trattoria de Toni €€ NOVENTA PADOVANA:
a medieval building. Serving Seafood Boccadoro €€
fresh fish, game and even sushi. Piazza Duca d’Aosta 37, 34073 Regional Italian
Tel 043 18 01 04 Closed Wed, Via della Resistenza 49, 35027
CORMONS: Ristorante al Dec–Feb Tel 049 62 50 29 Closed Wed; 1 wk
Cacciatore – La Subida €€ The house speciality here is Jan, 3 wks Aug
Regional Italian boreto alla gradese, a delicious Quietly elegant family-run
Via Subida 52, 34071 fish stew cooked in vinegar. restaurant offering well-balanced
Tel 048 16 05 31 Closed Tue & Wed; fish and meat dishes.
2 wks Feb GRANCONA: Isetta €
Inventive Friulian and Slovenian Regional Italian PADUA: Trattoria San Pietro €
menu that changes with the Via Pederiva 96, 36040 Regional Italian
seasons. Beautiful country setting. Tel 044 488 95 21 Closed Tue & Wed Via San Pietro 95, 35139
Pretty restaurant in a hilly area Tel 049 876 03 30 Closed Sun,
CORTINA D’AMPEZZO: outside Vicenza. Regional food, 3 wks Jul–Aug
Ristorante El Zoco € with emphasis on grilled meats. The perfect place for regional
Regional Italian dishes cooked with fresh local
Località Cademai 18, 32043 LONIGO: La Peca €€€ ingredients. Informal atmosphere.
Tel 043 686 00 41 Closed lunch; low Fine dining
season: Mon Via Giovanelli 2, 36045 PADUA: Da Giovanni €€
Small but cosy restaurant on Tel 044 483 02 14 Closed Sun (exc Regional Italian
the outskirts of trendy Cortina. lunch Sep–Jun), Mon; 2 wks Jun, 1 wk Via Pietro Maroncelli 22, 35129
On the menu are good grilled mid-Aug Tel 049 77 26 20 Closed Sat lunch,
meats and fresh vegetables. Traditional ingredients revisited Sun; Aug, 1 week Christmas
with inventive flair. Similar mixture Time-honoured trattoria offering
CORTINA D’AMPEZZO: of classic and creative in the decor. classics such as home-made
Baita Fraina €€ pasta, risotto and meat stews.
Regional Italian MESTRE: Osteria Vecia Posta €€
Località Fraina 1, 32043 Regional Italian RUBANO: Le Calandre €€€
Tel 0436 36 34 Closed low season: Via Felice Cavallotti 19, 30171 Fine dining
Mon; after Easter–May, Sep–Dec Tel 041 96 29 61 Closed Mon; 2 wks Via Liguria 1, 35030
Attractive wood-panelled B&B Aug Tel 049 63 03 03 Closed Sun, Mon,
with an on-site restaurant, This eatery in a quiet square is all Tue lunch; 1st wk Jan, 3 wks Aug
panoramic terrace and a about fish. Regional dishes are The cuisine at this three-Michelin-
spacious play area for kids. served with flair, and there are starred restaurant will enchant
good-value set menu options. the senses.
FUMANE: Ristorante Scamperle
alla Rosa € MIANE: Da Gigetto € DK Choice
Regional Italian Regional Italian
Via Incisa 8, 37022 Via Alcide de Gasperi 5, 31050 SAN GIORGIO DI
Tel 045 770 10 06 Closed Mon; Tel 043 896 00 20 Closed Mon VALPOLICELLA: Trattoria
2nd wk Jan, 2 wks mid-Aug dinner, Tue; 2 wks Jan, 1 wk Aug Dalla Rosa Alda €€
Regional Italian
Strada Garibaldi 4, 37015
Tel 045 770 10 18 Closed Sun
dinner, Mon; Jan & Feb
Nestled in a charming village
surrounded by vineyards, this
family-run trattoria has been
serving excellent traditional fare
for several generations.
Ingredients are carefully sourced
from local producers and the
cellars are full of carefully chosen
wines from the Valpoli cella
region. There is also a beautiful
terrace where guests can eat
alfresco, weather permitting.
Guests relaxing under the shade of umbrellas at Locanda San Vigilio in Garda
Key to prices see p580
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 582 4/5/17 9:32 AM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  583

SANTA MARIA DI SALA: Frescoed walls, open fireplaces
Trattoria Barison € and an outdoor terrace. Specials
Regional Italian include trout from Lake Garda.
Via Ronchi 14, Borgoricco, 35010
Tel 049 579 80 63 Closed Mon VERONA: Arche €€
dinner, Tue; 2 wks Jan, 3 wks Aug Regional Italian
This eatery serves not only the Via Arche Scaligere 6, 37121
traditional baccalà, but also Tel 045 800 74 15 Closed Sun dinner,
grilled meats, cooked vegetables Mon (except in summer); 2 wks Jan
and wild salads. Established in 1879, this seafood
restaurant serves superlative
SOLIGHETTO: marinated rock lobster.
Locanda da Lino €
Regional Italian VERONA: Al Bersagliere €€
Via Roma 19, 31053 Regional Italian
Tel 043 88 21 50 Closed Mon; Via Dietro Pallone 1, 37121
end Jan–early Feb, last 10 days Jul Tel 045 800 48 24 Closed Sat dinner
This restaurant is part of an inn (Aug), Sun, Mon (except summer);
overlooking the Prosecco 2 wks Aug, 25 Dec–15 Jan
hillsides. Home-made pasta This pleasantly informal, yet chic Wood-beamed ceilings and soft lighting
and good grilled meats on offer. restaurant offers great risotto at the informal Al Bersagliere, Verona
with Amarone and pasta dishes.
TREVISO:
Antico Ristorante Beccherie € VERONA: Il Desco €€€ BOLZANO: Forst €
Regional Italian Fine dining Birreria
Piazza Ancilotto 11, 31100 Via Dietro San Sebastiano 5–7, 37121 Goethestrasse 6, 39042
Tel 0422 54 08 71 Closed Tue Tel 045 59 53 58 Closed Sun & Mon; Tel 0471 97 72 43 Closed Sun
The name is derived from a word Jul–Aug & Dec: Mon lunch; 25 Dec– Popular restaurant serving not
in the local dialect that means 15 Jan only the hallmark beer, but also
“butcher’s” so, not surprisingly, This elegant Michelin-starred good wines and excellent food.
meat is the speciality here. restaurant offers a creative take
on traditional dishes. BOLZANO: Hopfen & Co €
TRIESTE: Antica Ghiacceretta €€ Birreria
Regional Italian VICENZA: Obstplatz 17, 39100
Via dei Fornelli 2, 34121 Antica Casa della Malvasia € Tel 0471 30 07 88
Tel 040 322 03 07 Regional Italian A sought-after brewery serving
Enjoy fish dishes prepared with Contrà delle Morette 5, 36100 cold cuts, sausages and desserts.
an inventive, light touch in a Tel 044 454 37 04 Closed Mon; Jul
modern setting. There is an Osteria serving pumpkin BRESSANONE: Fink €
excellent wine list to match. pancakes, local cheeses and cold Regional Italian
cuts, and pork fillet with truffles. Via Portici Minori 4, 39042
UDINE: Da Raffaele € Tel 0472 83 48 83 Closed mid-Sep–
Pizzeria VICENZA: Il Ceppo € Jun: Wed; 3 wks May
Via Leonardo da Vinci 56, 33100 Regional Italian Dining areas consist of elegant
Tel 043 229 58 31 Closed Wed Corso Andrea Palladio 196, 36100 seating upstairs, and more casual
lunch Tel 044 454 44 14 Closed Mon rooms on the ground floor. Classic
More than just a classic pizzeria, This shop-cum-bistro has local local cuisine cooked with flair.
this place boasts a traditional wines to accompany the food.
wood-fired oven and beer on tap. The tasting menu is great value. BRUNICO: Oberraut €
Regional Italian
DK Choice Via Ameto 1, Località Amaten, 39031
Closed Thu;
Tel 0474 55 99 77
UDINE: Agli Amici €€€ Trentino-Alto Adige 2 wks Jan
Fine dining Nestled in the countryside, this
Via Liguria 250, 33100 Tyrolean-style guesthouse special-
Tel 043 256 54 11 DK Choice izes in game and seasonal dishes.
Closed Apr–Oct: Sun, Mon, Tue
lunch, first 3 wks Aug; Nov–Mar: BOLZANO: Cavallino Bianco € CALDARO: Ristorante Ritterhof €
Sun dinner, Mon, Tue lunch Regional Italian Traditional Italian
Agli Amici whips up a cuisine Via dei Bottai 6, 39100 Weinstrasse 1A, 39052
that draws on local influences, Tel 0471 97 32 67 Closed Sat Tel 0471 96 33 30 Closed Sun
traditions and ingredients and dinner, Sun; last 2 wks Jun, 24–31 dinner; Mon
is served with elegance. Opt for Dec Set in a charming chalet with
one of the tasting menus for Also known by its German views over the lake. Fine fare and
chance to taste a few dishes. name, Weisses Rössl, this busy a menu that changes seasonally.
restaurant serves traditional
South Tyrol fare. A large buffet CERMES: Restaurant Miil €€
VALEGGIO SUL MINCIO: breakfast is followed by good Fine dining
Antica Locanda Mincio € lunch options and a waiter- Gampenstrasse 1, 39010
Traditional Italian service dinner. The gastronomic Tel 0473 56 37 33 Closed Sun, Mon
Via Michelangelo Buonarroti 12, 37067 theme evenings are popular Head to the Kränzelhof wine
Tel 045 795 00 59 Closed Wed, Thu; with the locals. estate for a modern take on
2 wks Feb, 2 wks Nov classic fare.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 583 4/5/17 9:32 AM

584  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

GUDON: Unterwirt €€ The creative Mediterranean menu BRESCIA: Trattoria Mezzeria €
Regional Italian includes fish and home-made Regional Italian
Chiusa (Klausen), 39043 desserts. There are also rooms. Via Trieste 66, 25121
Tel 0472 84 40 00 Closed Sun, Mon; Tel 030 40 306 Closed Sun (dinner
2 wks mid-Jun BERGAMO: only Nov–May); Aug
The home-made breads are a Colleoni dell’Angelo €€ Try the home-made gnocchi di
tasty introduction to the seasonal Modern Italian zucca (pumpkin dumplings) in
menu on offer here. Piazza Vecchia 7, 24129 this busy little trattoria.
Tel 035 23 25 96 Closed Mon; 1st wk
LEVICO TERME: Boivin € Jan CANTÙ: Le Querce €
Regional Italian Excellent service and imaginative Modern Italian
Via Garibaldi 9, 38056 cuisine; the views over a beautiful Via Marche 27, 22063
Tel 0461 70 16 70 Closed lunch square enhance the experience. Tel 031 73 13 36 Closed Mon, Tue; 3
(except Sun, Jul, Aug), Mon; 2 wks Jan wks Aug; 27 Dec–6 Jan
Cosy trattoria serving classic BERGAMO: Vineria Cozzi €€ Set amid oak and rhododendron,
dishes such as potato dumplings Enoteca Le Querce serves local dishes and
stuffed with cheese and walnuts. Via Colleoni 22, 24129 offers a rich selection of wines.
Tel 035 23 88 36 Closed 1 wk
ROVERETO: Novecento € end Jan, 1 wk Jun DK Choice
Regional Italian A century-old Bergamo favourite
Corso Rosmini 82d, 38068 serving local dishes. COMO: L’Angolo del Silenzio €
Tel 0464 43 54 54 Closed Sun; Regional Italian
3 wks Jan, 3 wks Jul–Aug BERGAMO: Roof Garden €€€ Viale Lecco 25, 22100
Run by the Zani family, this Mediterranean Tel 031 377 21 57 Closed Mon;
restaurant is renowned for its Piazzale della Repubblica 6, 24122 2 wks Aug
home-made pasta and pizzas. Tel 035 36 61 59 Closed Sat lunch; This reasonably priced osteria,
Sun; 1st wk Jan, 1 wk Aug just a few steps from the
TRENTO: Happy Hour € This rooftop restaurant offers cathedral and lake, offers home-
Seafood great views, a fusion of world made pasta, meat, game and
Via Perini 57, 38122 flavours and classic fish dishes in a friendly atmos-
Tel 0461 39 23 94 Closed Sun Mediterranean dishes. phere. Try the wild boar with
dinner, Mon redcurrant sauce and Roquefort.
Informal place with a menu that BORMIO: Al Filò € An inexpensive one-dish lunch
changes daily, according to the Regional Italian is available on weekdays and
top picks from the fish market. Via Dante 6, 23032 gluten-free dishes are available
Tel 0342 90 17 32 Closed Mon & Tue on request. Book ahead.
TRENTO: lunch; 3 wks Jun, Nov
Osteria Alle Due Spade € Dishes based on game, cured
Regional Italian meats and mushrooms are COMO: Ristorante Sociale €
Via Don Rizzi 11, 38122 served in a converted barn. Regional Italian
Tel 0461 23 43 43 Closed Sun, Via Rodari 6, 22100
Mon lunch; last wk Jun–first wk Jul BRESCIA: Osteria delle Streghe € Tel 031 26 40 42 Closed Tue; 1 wk
Welcoming cellar restaurant International Jan, last 3 wks Aug
serving traditional fare including Via Sorbana 72, 25125 Sociale offers traditional Lombard
game and freshwater fish. Tel 030 32 12 15 Closed Sat lunch, dishes. Dine in the vaulted room
Sun; 28 Dec–6 Jan or in the outdoor courtyard.
VAL SENALES: The Osteria delle Streghe serves
Zur Goldenen Rose € a wide range of grilled meats, COMO: Sant’Anna 1907 €
Regional Italian including kangaroo. Reservations Regional Italian
Kartaus 29, 39020 are mandatory. Via Turati 3, 22100
Tel 0473 67 91 30 Closed Apr, Nov Tel 031 50 52 66 Closed Sat lunch, Sun
Explore the surrounding Creative local cuisine, including
countryside and then unwind at seafood and vegetarian options,
this excellent hotel restaurant. can be enjoyed here. Try the
spaghetti salad with two caviars.
CREMONA: Il Violino €€
Lombardy Traditional Italian
Via Sicardo 3, 26100
BELLAGIO: Tel 0372 46 10 10 Closed Sun (Jun–
Albergo Ristorante Silvio € Sep)
Regional Italian Traditional local cuisine is served
Via Carcano 12, 22021 in this elegant restaurant.
Tel 031 95 03 22 Closed Nov–
mid-Mar GARGNANO DEL GARDA:
Enjoy freshwater fish on a vine- La Tortuga €€
clad terrace. Offers fishing trips. Modern Italian
Via XXIV Maggio 5, 25084
BELLAGIO: Terrazza Barchetta €€ Tel 0365 712 51 Closed Tue;
Regional Italian Mar–Oct: lunch
Salita Mella 13, 22021 Diners enjoy the light, imaginative
Tel 031 95 13 89 Closed Tue (exc Jul & The entrance to Terrazza Barchetta, in cuisine on offer at this renowned
Aug); Nov–Easter Bellagio, which specializes in local cuisine lakeside restaurant.
Key to prices see p580
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  585

ISEO: Cascina Doss €€
Modern Italian
Via Colombera 15, 25049
Tel 030 98 11 11 Closed Tue
Good-quality traditional fare is
served here, with excellent local
wines. Monday is risotto evening.
LAKE COMO:
Locanda dell’Isola Comacina €€
Seafood
Isola Comacina, 22010
Tel 034 455 083 Closed Tue (Oct);
Nov–Mar
A unique experience on a
wonderful island, deserted except
for this spot serving fresh fish.
LAVENO MOMBELLO: Casual dining at Pasta Madre, near Porta Romana, Milan
Trattoria Calianna €
Regional Italian MANTUA: L’Ochina Bianca € Contemporary decor with a
Via Don C Tinelli 19, 21014 Regional Italian relaxed atmosphere and creative
Tel 0332 667 315 Closed Tue Via Finzi 2, 46100 Italian cuisine. Gluten-free
Mediterranean cuisine and local Tel 0376 32 37 00 Closed Sun dinner; desserts available.
specialities such as risotto with lunch; 1–21 Aug
perch, plus a relaxed atmosphere. Regional dishes with a modern MILAN: Premiata Pizzeria €
touch; try the local torta sbrisolona, Pizzeria
LECCO: a classic Mantuan sweet cake. Via Alzaia Naviglio Grande 2, 20144
Antica Osteria Casa di Lucia €€ Tel 02 89 40 06 48
Fine dining MANTUA: Il Cigno Trattoria A great and popular pizzeria
Via Lucia 27, Località Acquate, 23900 dei Martini €€ with delicious toppings like
Tel 0341 49 45 94 Closed Sat lunch, Modern Italian salami, gorgonzola cheese
Sun lunch; 2 wks Aug Piazza Carlo d’Arco 1, 46100 and truffle oil. Casual dining
A superb gourmet restaurant set Tel 0376 32 71 01 Closed Mon, on shared tables.
in a 17th-century house. Tue; Aug
Fine fare complemented by an MILAN: Trattoria Aurora €
LECCO: Mamoia Bistrot €€ impeccable wine list. Traditional Italian
Seafood Via Savona 23, 20144
Via Carlo Cattaneo 80, 23900 MILAN: Be Bop Ristorante € Tel 02 832 31 44 Closed Mon
Tel 0341 32 16 88 Closed Mon Pizzeria dinner
Excellent fresh fish served in an Viale Col di Lana 4, 20136 This upmarket brasserie near
informal setting. Cheaper set Tel 02 83 76 972 Closed 10–20 Aug the Navigli district offers hearty
lunch menus are available. This restaurant offers gluten-free Piedmontese food. Finish your
and vegetarian pizzas. meal with a slice of tiramisu.
LEGNANO: Al Vintun Osteria €
Modern Italian MILAN: Bianco Latte € MILAN: U Barba €
Via Bramante 95, 20025 Mediterranean Regional Italian
Tel 0331 45 49 59 Closed Sun; 1st wk Via Turati 30, 20121 Via Decembrio 33, 20137
Aug Tel 02 62 08 61 77 Closed Mon Tel 02 45 48 70 32 Closed Mon,
Serves Italian fish and meat dishes. dinner; 2 wks Aug Tue–Fri lunch; 14–30 Aug
A fixed-price menu is offered every Stop here for a hearty brunch or Friendly traditional Genoese
Thursday evening. light dinner. Excellent coffee. osteria with a bocce ball court.
Great fish and game dishes. Try
MANERBA DEL GARDA: MILAN: Erba Brusca € the freshly made gnocchi.
Capriccio €€€ Mediterranean
Regional Italian Alzaia Naviglio Pavese 286, 20144 MILAN:
Piazza San Bernardo 6, Località Tel 02 87 38 07 11 Closed Mon, Tue Alla Cucina delle Langhe €€
Montinelle, 25080 This small restaurant has its own Traditional Italian
Tel 0365 55 11 24 Closed Mon–Thu kitchen garden, where the creative Corso Como 6, 20144
(Feb), Tue dinner (Jul & Aug); Jan cuisine can be enjoyed alfresco. Tel 02 65 54 279
Refined dining in an elegant Delectable interpretations of
setting with a breathtaking view MILAN: Osteria Brunello € classic Piedmontese fare, just a
of Lake Garda from all tables. Regional Italian few steps from the outlet store
Corso Garibaldi 117, 20121 10 Corso Como.
MANTUA: Tel 02 659 29 73
Antica Osteria Ai Ranari € Dishes based on Tuscan traditions; MILAN: Da Giacomo €€
Regional Italian try the pappardelle with wild boar. Regional Italian
Via Trieste 11, 46100 Via Sottocorno 6, corner of Via B.
Tel 0376 32 84 31 Closed Mon; 8–18 MILAN: Pasta Madre € Cellini, 20129
Jan, 1–10 Jul Modern Italian Tel 02 76 02 33 13
Traditional Mantuan dishes, Via Bernardino Corio 8, 20135 Close to the Duomo, this place
including the famous tortelli di Tel 02 55 19 00 20 Closed Sun; 2 wks offers simply cooked fish and
zucca (pumpkin-filled pasta). mid-Aug seafood in a friendly atmosphere.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 585 4/5/17 9:32 AM

586  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Valle d’Aosta and
Piedmont
ACQUI TERME: I Caffi €€
Regional Italian
Via Scatilazzi 15, 15011
Tel 0144 325 206 Closed Sun dinner
(Oct–Nov), Mon
Piedmontese dishes revisited
with only local products, plus 600
wine labels. Impeccable service.
ALBA:
Ristorante Madonna di Como €
Regional Italian
Frazione Madonna di Como 31, 12051
Tel 333 534 91 53 Closed Mon; 1 wk
Exquisite grounds of the lovely Locanda del Pilone di Alba, Alba mid-Aug
Set in the hills above Alba and
MILAN: Giglio Rosso €€ Family­run lakeside restaurant boasting spectacular panoramic
Fine dining serving fresh Lake Iseo fish; sun­ views, this restaurant offers
Piazza Luigi di Savoia 2, 20124 dried salted fish is a speciality. regional dishes.
Tel 02 669 41 74 Closed Sat & Sun
lunch; Aug, 23 Dec–6 Jan PAVIA: Le Tre Torri € DK Choice
This elegant restaurant offers Pizzeria
innovative Tuscan dishes, staples Via Lazzaro Spallanzani 6, 27100 ALBA:
such as variations of risotto, Tel 0382 30 28 20 Closed lunch (Sat– Locanda del Pilone
gnocchi and ravioli. Mon) di Alba €€€
This restaurant offers a varied Regional Italian
DK Choice selection of pizza and pasta dishes. Strada della Cicchetta Frazione
Madonna di Como 34, 12051
MILAN: PAVIA: La Locanda Tel 0173 36 66 16 Closed Tue,
Nobile Bistrò de Milan €€ Vecchia Pavia al Mulino €€ Wed (Oct–Nov: Tue, Wed lunch);
Regional Italian Regional Italian Jan–Feb
Corso Venezia 45, 20121 Via al Monumento 5, Località Set in a stunning location, this
Tel 02 49 52 65 92 Closed 2 wks Certosa, 27012 converted cascina (barn) has
Aug Tel 0382 92 58 94 Closed Sun views over the Alps. The
This reasonably priced restaurant dinner, Mon; 1–18 Jan, 5–25 Aug Michelin­starred menu features
is a short walk from the Montena­ Located in the grounds of the classic Piedmontese cuisine with
poleone shopping area. Well­ Certosa di Pavia, this restaurant touches of Neapolitan cooking.
known Milanese chef Claudio serves tasty local specialities. Each dish is served with a care­
Sadler offers traditional regional fully selected wine. The desserts
meat and fish dishes with SALÒ: Osteria dell’Orologio € are superb. Cookery classes and
a modern twist. Continental Traditional Italian wine tasting available.
breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, Via Butturini 26, 25087
aperitivo and dinner are all Tel 0365 29 01 58 Closed mid-Jan–
served in an informal atmos­ mid-Feb, last wk Jun, Nov ALBA: Piazza Duomo €€€
phere, with tables both indoors This bistro offers great­value, Regional Italian
and in a private courtyard. traditional local cuisine and a Piazza Risorgimento 4, 12050
reasonably priced wine list. Tel 0173 36 61 67 Closed Sun, Mon;
2 wks Aug, 3 wks Dec–Jan
MILAN: SALÒ: Gourmet fare and impeccable
Il Ristorante Bulgari Hotel €€€ Antica Trattoria alle Rose €€ service on offer near the main
Fine dining Regional Italian square of Alba.
Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7/b, 20122 Via Gasparo da Salò 33, 25087
Tel 02 805 80 51 Tel 0365 432 20 Closed Wed; 7 Jan– ALESSANDRIA: Il Grappolo €€
A luxury dining experience a few 11 Feb, 2nd & 3rd wks Nov Regional Italian
steps from Via Montenapoleone. A traditional trattoria offering lake Via Casale 28, 15121
fish, local dishes, home­made Tel 0131 25 32 17 Closed Mon
MILAN: Victoria €€€ pasta and delicious desserts. dinner, Tue
Traditional Italian Located in a 17th­century palace.
Via Clerici 1, 20121 SALÒ: La Campagnola €€ Offers Piedmontese food with a
Tel 02 869 07 92 Closed Sat lunch; Sun Modern Italian modern twist; there’s also a very
A few steps behind La Scala, Via Brunati 11, 25087 good wine list.
Victoria offers traditional fare Tel 0365 22 153 Closed Mon,
in an Art Nouveau setting. Tue lunch AOSTA: Grotta Azzurra €
One of the oldest establishments Pizzeria
MONTE ISOLA: La Foresta €€ around Lake Garda, La Via Croce di Città 97, 11100
Regional Italian Campagnola has an ample Tel 0165 26 24 74 Closed Wed; Jul
Via Peschiera 174, Maraglio, 25050 selection of dishes, with a Reasonably priced pizzeria in
Tel 030 988 62 10 Closed Wed; separate steak menu and an the town centre. Varied menu
Jan–Feb extensive wine list. Book ahead. features a delicious fish soup.
Key to prices see p580
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 586 4/5/17 9:32 AM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  587

AOSTA: Trattoria degli Artisti €€ BRA: Battaglino € Traditional dishes reinvented
Regional Italian Regional Italian with a twist in a converted 19th-
Via Maillet 5–7, 11100 Piazza Roma 18, 12042 century stable block. Good wine.
Tel 0165 409 60 Closed Sun lunch Tel 0172 41 25 09 Closed Sun
(except Aug); Mon; 15 days Jan, 15 dinner, Mon; 2 wks Jan, 2 wks Aug CANNOBIO: Lo Scalo €€
days Jun Traditional Piedmontese meat Seafood
On a cobbled street in the town dishes offered in this convivial Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 32, 28822
centre, this trattoria offers great restaurant in the heart of Bra. Tel 0323 714 80 Closed Mon & Tue
home-made cakes and desserts. lunch (mid-Sep–mid-Jul); 1 wk Feb–
BRA: Guido Ristorante €€ Mar, Nov
AOSTA: Il Vecchio Ristoro €€€ Regional Italian Daily catch of lake fish baked in
Regional Italian Via Fossano 19, 12042 foil, plus an array of shellfish and
Via Tourneuve 4, 11100 Tel 0172 45 84 22 Closed lunch; local produce.
Tel 0165 332 38 Closed Sun & Mon Sun dinner, Mon
lunch Located inside the castle of CASALE MONFERRATO:
This restaurant in an old Pollenzo. Refined regional meat La Torre €€
watermill uses local ingredients and fish dishes a la carte, or a Modern Italian
to make creative dishes. high-price tasting menu. Via Candiani d’Olivola 36,15033
Tel 0142 702 95 Closed Tue, Wed
ARONA: La Ruga del Corso €€ BREUIL-CERVINIA: lunch; 3 wks Aug, 28 Dec–7 Jan
Regional Italian Al Solito Posto € La Torre offers creative regional
Via Cesare Battisti 12, 28021 Regional Italian cuisine and has a good wine list.
Tel 0322 44 196 Closed Tue (Oct–Mar) Via Meynet 10 11021
Housed in a former monastery, Tel 0166 94 91 26 CHIUSA SAN MICHELE:
this place offers classic fish and Charming, rustic restaurant with Ristorante Della Sacra €
meat dishes with a creative twist. a good fixed-price menu. Mediterranean
Piazzale della Sacra di San Michele,
DK Choice BREUIL-CERVINIA: €€ 10057
Les Neiges d’Antan
Tel 011 93 98 43 Closed Mon; Tue &
ARONA: French Wed dinner (Jul–Sep)
La Taverna del Pittore €€ Cretes Perreres Good-quality café, hotel and
Fine dining Tel 0166 94 87 75 Closed May– restaurant next to the famous
Piazza del Popolo 39, 28041 mid-Jun, mid-Sep–end Oct Sacra San Michele monastery.
Tel 0322 24 33 66 Closed Thu This restaurant-cum-hotel serves
With a veranda offering refined rustic and rich mountain COGNE: Lou Rossignon €
stunning views of the Rocca di fare accompanied by great wines. Traditional Italian
Angera, this restaurant whips up Rue Mines de Cogne 22, 11012
creative Italian cuisine. Dishes CANNOBIO: Del Lago € Tel 0165 740 34 Closed Tue dinner,
include ravioli with truffles, Traditional Italian Wed (except Aug, Dec); 1–20 Jun, Nov
tagliolini with lobster sauce and Via Nazionale 2, Località Carmine Traditional Alpine and local fare
grilled beef fillet with porcini Inferiore, 28822 in a cosy mountain taverna.
mushrooms. The menu is Tel 0323 705 95 Closed Tue, Wed
presented on an artist’s palette, lunch; Nov–mid-Mar COSSANO BELBO: Trattoria
recalling the restaurant’s past as Simple yet imaginative dishes Della Posta da Camulin €
a meeting place for painters. and views of Lake Maggiore. Regional Italian
Via Fratelli Negro 3, 12054
CANNOBIO: Osteria Vino Tel 0141 881 26 Closed Sun dinner,
ASTI: L’Angolo del Beato € Divino € Mon; mid-Jul–mid-Aug
Regional Italian Modern Italian Friendly century-old trattoria
Vicolo Cavalleri 2, 14100 Strada Valle Cannobina 1, 28822 serving regional dishes and
Tel 0141 53 16 68 Closed Sun; 1–6 Tel 0323 719 19 Closed lunch (exc home-made pasta.
Jan, mid-Aug Sun); Tue (exc Jul & Aug); Nov–Mar
Family-run spot in a medieval COSTIGLIOLE D’ASTI:
setting offering Piedmontese Caffè Roma €
dishes; try the varied antipasti. Traditional Italian
Piazza Umberto I 14, 14037
ASTI: One More €€ Tel 0141 96 65 44 Closed Mon;
Traditional Italian 1 wk end Feb, 1 wk Jun
Via Lungotanaro dei Pescatori, 14100 A wine bar at the foot of the
Tel 0141 178 00 51 Closed Mon castle with light dishes in a
(Oct–May) cosy atmosphere.
A young crowd comes for beer,
pizza and local fare, plus live COSTIGLIOLE D’ASTI:
music on the weekends. Cascina Collavini €
Traditional Italian
ASTI: Osteria da Marisa Strada Traniera 24, 14037
al Castello €€ Tel 0141 96 64 40 Closed Tue dinner,
Regional Italian Wed; 2 wks Jan, 2 wks Aug
Piazza Castello 1, 14100 Simple, elegant restaurant in
Tel 0141 20 41 15 Closed Mon, Tue an old farmhouse. The menu
Set in an 18th-century castle features traditional regional
overlooking the Monferrato hills. Stunning views of the Rocca di Angera from fare. Wines come from the
Excellent Piedmontese cuisine. La Taverna del Pittore, Arona local vineyard.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 587 4/5/17 9:32 AM

588  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

COURMAYEUR: Du Tunnel € SESTRIERE:
Pizzeria La Vineria del Colle €€
Via Circonvallazione 80, 11013 Enoteca
Tel 0165 84 17 05 Closed winter: Via Assietta 1, 10058
Wed lunch Tel 0122 764 76 Closed Mon;
A simple snack bar/pizzeria May, Oct
offering delicious wood-fired Housed in an old wine cellar next
pizzas. Friendly and efficient staff. to the ski slopes, this enoteca
combines traditional flavours
COURMAYEUR: with contemporary tastes.
Cadran Solaire €€
Traditional Italian SORISO: Al Sorriso €€€
Via Roma 122,11013 Regional Italian
Tel 0165 84 46 09 Closed Tue; May, Via Roma 18, 28016
2 wks Nov Tel 0322 98 32 28 Closed Mon, Tue;
Local dishes including risotto alla 1 wk Jan
Valdostana (made with Fontina Renowned for its good, creative
cheese) served in a cosy setting. cuisine incorporating seasonal
specialities. Book ahead.
CUNEO:
Osteria Della Chiocciola € Rustic and charming entrance of STRESA: Piemontese €€
Regional Italian the popular Al Sorriso, Soriso Regional Italian
Via Fossano 1, 12100 Via Mazzini 25, 28838
Tel 0171 662 77 Closed Sun; 15 days ORTA SAN GIULIO: Tel 0323 30 235 Closed Mon;
Jan Ristoro Olina € Nov–Feb
Top-quality home-made classics Traditional Italian Intimate family-run restaurant with
such as gnocchi, ravioli and risotto Via Olina 40, 28016 interesting versions of local fare.
are served with excellent wine. Tel 0322 90 56 56 Closed mid-Nov– There is also a pretty alfresco
mid-Dec terrace for summer dining.
CUNEO: La Ciau del Tornavento €€ Serves home-made pasta. Local
Regional Italian mushrooms and truffles feature STRESA: Il Vicoletto €€
Piazza Baracco 7, 12050 on the menu, as do fish dishes. Modern Italian
Tel 0173 63 83 33 Closed Wed, Thu Vicolo del Poncivo 3, 28838
lunch; Feb ORTA SAN GIULIO: Tel 0323 93 21 02 Closed Nov–
Piedmontese dishes are served in Villa Crespi €€€ Mar: Thu; Jan–Feb
a dining room with wonderful Modern Italian Piedmontese cuisine including
views of rolling vineyards. Via Fava 18, 28016 classic dishes with a touch of
Tel 0322 91 19 02 Closed Apr–Oct: creativity. Good wine cellar.
DOMODOSSOLA: Antica Mon, Tue lunch
Ristorante Piemonte Da Sciolla € Set in a 19th-century folly, this TORTONA: Aurora Girarrosto €
Regional Italian restaurant offers high-level Regional Italian
Piazza della Convenzione 4, 28845 gastronomy and a vast wine list. Strada Statale per Genova 13, 15057
Tel 0324 24 26 33 Closed Sun dinner, Tel 0131 86 30 33
Wed; Oct–8 Dec RIVOLI: Combal.Zero €€€ The speciality here is barbecued
Known for its local mountain fare Modern Italian meats, with all produce coming
of hearty meat and game dishes. Il Castello, Piazza Mafalda di Savoia from local organic farmers.
62, 10098
IVREA: Trattoria Boccon Divino € Tel 011 956 52 25 Closed Sun, Mon; TURIN: Birilli €€
Regional Italian Aug Modern Italian
Via Aosta 47,10015 Located in the grounds of the Strada Val San Martino 6, 10131
Tel 0125 489 98 Closed Tue dinner, Castello di Rivoli, this restaurant Tel 011 819 05 67 Closed 1st wk Jan;
Sun dinner; last wk Jul, 1st wk Aug offers a creative Italian menu. Oct–May: Sun dinner
A small trattoria in the historic Hearty home cooking offering a
centre serving regional cuisine. good variety of pasta, grilled fish
DK Choice and meat dishes.
NOVARA: I Due Ladroni € SAINT VINCENT: Le Grenier €€
Traditional Italian Modern Italian TURIN: La Porta Rossa €€
Corso Cavallotti 15, 28100 Piazza Monte Zerbion 1, 11010 Seafood
Tel 0321 62 45 81 Closed Sun; 1 wk Tel 0166 51 01 38 Closed Mon– Via Passalacqua 3/B, 10122
mid-Aug Thu lunch, Wed Tel 011 53 08 16 Closed Sat lunch,
Classic cuisine in a 16th-century Soft lighting and a copper fire- Sun; 10–30 Aug; 25 Dec–6 Jan
palazzo in the heart of town. place create a warm ambience in Serving fresh fish accompanied
Excellent food with great flavours. this restaurant set in a converted by fine wines.
barn. Try the carpaccio di filetto
NOVARA: (thin slices of raw beef) with TURIN: Dai Saletta €€
Osteria del Laghetto €€ curry sauce, the venison or the Regional Italian
Regional Italian ravioli di carciofi e robiola con Via Belfiore 37, 10126
Via Case Sparse 11, 28100 gamberi rossi (pasta filled with Tel 011 668 78 67 Closed Sun;
Tel 0321 47 29 62 Closed Sun; artichokes, robiola cheese and 2 wks Aug
10 days Aug; 24 Dec–7 Jan shrimp). There is an ample choice Typical trattoria ambience. Has a
Truffles, mushrooms and fish are of Italian and French wines and classic Piedmontese menu and a
on offer at this restaurant set in a good cheese selection. good wine list. Good selection of
pretty gardens. Book ahead. home-made desserts.
Key to prices see p580
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 588 4/5/17 9:32 AM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  589

TURIN: Neuv Caval ’d Brôns €€€ VERCELLI: Il Giardinetto € CERVO: San Giorgio €€
Fine dining Regional Italian Seafood
Piazza San Carlo 155, 10123 Via Sereno 3, 13100 Via Volta 19, 18010
Tel 011 53 90 30 Tel 0161 25 72 30 Closed Mon; Tel 0183 40 01 75 Closed Jul & Aug:
Set in a beautiful square, this 1 wk Jan, 3 wks Aug Tue lunch; Oct–Easter: Mon dinner, Tue
restaurant offers Piedmontese Housed in a 19th-century villa, Popular, charming restaurant
dishes with an international twist. this restaurant serves delicious offering simple dishes. Book ahead.
fare using Piedmontese delicacies.
VENARIA REALE: GENOA: Da Genio €
Il Convito della Venaria € VERCELLI: Il Paiolo € Regional Italian
Regional Italian Regional Italian Salita San Leonardo 61r, 16128
Via Andrea Mensa 37g, 10078 Viale Garibaldi 72, 13100 Tel 010 58 84 63 Closed Sun; 2 wks Aug
Tel 011 459 83 92 Closed Sun Tel 0161 25 05 77 Closed Thu; Sample the classic trenette al
dinner, Mon; 3 wks Feb, 1st wk Aug 2nd wk Jul–1st wk Aug pesto (local pasta with pesto
Come for meat and fish dishes or A trattoria set in the rice-growing sauce) and fish dishes.
pizza from a wood-fired oven. country. Serves excellent risotto.
GENOA: Da O’ Colla €
VERBANIA PALLANZA: Regional Italian
Osteria dell’Angolo € Via alla Chiesa di Murta 10, 16162
Regional Italian Liguria Tel 010 740 85 79 Closed lunch;
Piazza Garibaldi 35, 28922 Sun dinner
Tel 0323 55 63 62 Closed Mon (exc CAMOGLI: O Magazin di Excellent home-cooked Ligurian
dinner mid-Jul–Sep); Nov–Feb Camogli € cuisine. Located away from the
Typical regional taverna offering Seafood city centre, but worth the taxi fare.
fish dishes, and Piedmontese and Piazza Colombo 14, 16032
Lombard cuisine. Book ahead. Tel 393 923 9099 Closed Jul–Sep: GENOA: Cantine Squarciafico €€
Mon Regional Italian
VERBANIA PALLANZA: This hidden-away fish bar offers Piazza Ivrea 3r, 16123
Osteria del Castello € good-quality dishes in varied and Tel 010 24 70 82 3 Closed 1–10 Jan
Enoteca original menus. Ligurian wine bar offering local
Piazza Castello 9, 28921 specialities including stracci
Tel 0323 51 65 79 Closed Sun; DK Choice (a type of lasagne).
1 wk Dec
A local favourite serving pasta and CAMOGLI: LEVANTO: Cavour €€
Piedmontese beef. Good wine list. La Cucina di Nonna Nina €€ Regional Italian
Regional Italian Piazza Cavour 1, 19015
VERBANIA PALLANZA: Via Molfino 126, 16032 Tel 0187 80 84 97 Closed Mon;
Milano €€ Tel 0185 77 38 35 Closed Wed; 15 Dec–15 Feb
Regional Italian 10 days Jan; 3 wks Nov Traditional trattoria specializing
Corso Zanitello 2, 28922 This restaurant is on a pretty hill in local seafood dishes.
Tel 0323 55 68 16 Closed Tue; and encircled by citrus and olive
Jan, Nov trees. It produces excellent MANAROLA: La Scogliera €€
Choose from a selection of fish dishes, using top-quality local Regional Italian
served with organic vegetables. products including olive oil from Via Birolli 103, 19017
the Ligurian coast, fish bought Tel 0187 92 07 47 Closed Nov–
VERCELLI: Acqua Pazza € from local fishermen, and Mar: Fri
Pizzeria organic vegetables grown in A pretty, family-run restaurant
Corso Gastaldi 25, 13100 its own garden. The focaccia, renow ned for seafood specialities.
Tel 0161 21 74 20 Closed Wed; 2 wks amongst other breads, cakes
Aug and Ligurian pasta, are all home- NERVI: Astor €
This place offers a range of pizzas made on the day of serving. Regional Italian
as well as Vercellese dishes. Viale delle Palme 16, 16167
Tel 010 32 90 11
With magnificent views of the
sea, Astor offers local cuisine in a
simple and elegant setting.
PORTOFINO: Da U Batti €€
Seafood
Vico Nuovo 17, 16034
Tel 0185 26 93 79 Closed Mon;
Nov–mid-Jan
A chic, intimate restaurant in one
of Liguria’s most elegant towns.
Offers exceptional fish cuisine.
PORTOVENERE: Le Bocche €€
Regional Italian
Calata Doria 102, 19025
Tel 0187 79 06 22 Closed Tue (exc Jul
& Aug); Jan–mid-Feb
Delicate Ligurian fish dishes served
A terrace overlooking the water, perfect for the fish dishes at Milano, in Verbania Pallanza alfresco overlooking Portovenere.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9

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590  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

PORTOVENERE: Da Iseo €€ SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE: BOLOGNA: Pino €
Regional Italian Il Nostromo € Pizzeria
Calata Doria 9, 19025 Seafood Via Goito 2, 40126
Tel 0187 79 06 10 Closed Wed (Sep– Via dell’Arco 6, 16038 Tel 051 22 72 91
Jun); 20 days Nov Tel 0185 28 16 63 Closed Mon (exc This boisterous spot located
This trattoria on the waterfront Jun–Sep); 15 Feb, 15 Nov in the heart of town offers first-
serves typical fish dishes. This family run restaurant serves rate pizzas topped with quality
good portions of quality ingredients.
RAPALLO: U’Giancu € traditional Ligurian fish dishes.
Regional Italian BOLOGNA: Posta €
Via San Massimo 78, 16035 SESTRI LEVANTE: Regional Italian
Tel 0185 26 05 05 Closed lunch; Wed; Ristorante Olimpo €€ Via della Grada 21, 41022
weekends (winter). Mediterranean Tel 051 649 21 06 Closed Mon, Sat
Ligurian specialities are served Via della Chiusa 28, 16039 lunch; last 2 wks Aug
here, and the walls are full of Tel 0185 426 61 Closed 2 Nov–Feb Enjoy Tuscan cuisine at this rustic
drawings by comic masters. Overlooking the Baia del Silenzio, spot with wood-beamed ceilings
this restaurant serves fine cuisine and terracotta-tiled floors.
RAPALLO: with an emphasis on fish.
Hostaria Vecchia Rapallo €€ BOLOGNA: Il Cantuccio €€
Seafood VERNAZZA: Gambero Rosso €€ Seafood
Via Cairoli 20, 16035 Seafood Via Volturno 4, 40121
Tel 0185 500 53 Closed Oct–Mar: Piazza Marconi 7, 19018 Tel 051 23 34 24 Closed lunch; Mon;
Mon; 7–24 Jan Tel 0187 81 22 65 Closed Thu; Aug
This elegant restaurant offers mid-Jan–Feb Fresh Mediterranean cuisine in
creative seafood dishes and Inventive modern interpretations an intimate setting. Family-run,
a good selection of wine. of Ligurian seafood dishes. with courteous service.
RAPALLO: La Nave €€ BOLOGNA: Cesarina €€
Seafood Regional Italian
Via Pomaro 15, 16035 Emilia-Romagna Via Santo Stefano 19, 40125
Tel 0185 66 95 02 Closed mid-Sep– Tel 051 23 20 37 Closed Mon, Tue
May: Wed BOLOGNA: lunch
Excellent location on the beach. Antica Trattoria della Gigina € More than 100 years old, this
Sample the frittura di pesce (fried Regional Italian restaurant, beside an exquisite
fish) and home-made pesto. Via Stendhal 1, 40128 church, offers regional dishes.
Tel 051 32 23 00
BOLOGNA: Pappagallo
DK Choice A modern take on regional cuisine Fine dining €€
without compromising flavour.
SANREMO: Piazza della Mercanzia 3, 40125
Da Paolo e Barbara €€ BOLOGNA: Battibecco € Tel 051 23 28 07
Seafood Regional Italian Excellent traditional cuisine
Via Roma 47, 18038 Via Battibecco 4, 40123 is served here, under dramatically
Tel 0184 53 16 53 Closed lunch Tel 051 22 32 98 Closed lunch Sat; Sun high ceilings. The desserts on
(open Sat & Sun lunch Nov–May); Classic Bolognese cuisine and offer are delicious and the cellar
Wed, Thu seafood dishes in this centrally is well stocked.
This small family-run restaurant located, elegant restaurant.
serves local fish, meat sourced BOLOGNA: Ristorante Sikelia €€
from the nearby Langhe region, BOLOGNA: Pepperoni € Seafood
vegetables from its own farm Pizzeria Via Riva di Reno 45/B, 40124
and home-made focaccia. Try Via di Barbiano 7, 40136 Tel 051 23 15 51 Closed Mon, Sun
the pasta with gambero rosso di Tel 051 33 36 58 Closed mid-Oct– dinner
Sanremo (local red prawn) or mid-May: Mon Excellent fish served in a city
trofie al Marò (pasta with bean Minimalist decor in this trendy where meat reigns. Simple decor,
and mint sauce). spot serving high-quality pizzas. courteous service, good prices.
SANREMO: Da Vittorio €€
Seafood
Piazza Bresca 16, 18038
Tel 0184 50 19 24 Closed 2 wks Nov
A traditional favourite close to
the shore. Seafood, fresh from
the harbour, is the main draw.
SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE:
L’Insolita Zuppa €
Traditional Italian
Via Romana 7, 16038
Tel 0185 28 95 94 Closed Wed
(exc Jul & Aug); 2 wks Feb, last 2 wks
Nov
A cosy place offering traditional
meat and fish dishes. Elegant seating at Sanremo’s noted Da Paolo e Barbara restaurant
Key to prices see p580


580-605_EW_Italy.indd 590 4/5/17 9:32 AM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  591

BOLOGNA: Bitone €€€ DK Choice
Fine dining
Via Emilia Levante 111, 40134 MODENA: Osteria
Tel 051 54 61 10 Closed Mon, Francescana €€€
Tue; Aug Fine dining
Just outside the city centre, this Via Stella 22, 41121
restaurant offers great Bolognese Tel 059 22 39 12 Closed Jan &
dishes and attentive service. Aug: Sun, Mon
This two-Michelin-starred
BOLOGNA: I Portici €€€ restaurant is experimental. The
Fine dining regional speciality – Parmigiano
Via dell’Indipendenza 69, 40121 Reggiano – is available in five
Tel 051 421 85 Closed lunch; Mon, different stages of ageing and
Sun the most notable dishes include
The Michelin-starred chef here ravioli with veal offal, vegetables
creates traditional Bolognese and and black truffles. Sample the
modern Italian cuisine. Romantic marinated suckling pig with
setting in a former theatre. cream of fennel, and the famous
Modena balsamic vinegar. Sophisticated ambience at the Osteria
CASTELL’ARQUATO: Francescana, Modena
Da Faccini €€
Regional Italian PARMA: I Tri Siochètt € RAVENNA: Bella Venezia €€
Località S. Antonio, 29014 Regional Italian Regional Italian
Tel 0523 89 63 40 Closed Wed; Strada Farnese-Vigheffio 74/a, 43125 Via 4 Novembre 16, 48121
Jun, Jul Tel 0521 96 88 70 Closed 2 wks Dec Tel 0544 21 27 46 Closed Sun;
In-season local ingredients Named after the three “mad” 3 wks Jan, 1 wk Jun
decide the daily changing menu siblings who opened this trattoria Excellent pasta and fresh fish in a
at this warm, family-run eatery. years ago. Hearty local cuisine. romantic, intimate setting. Great
service and a central location.
FAENZA: La Pavona € PARMA: Le Viole €
Regional Italian Modern Italian RAVENNA: Taberna Boaria €€
Via Santa Lucia 45, 48018 Strada Nuova di Castelnuovo 60, Regional Italian
Tel 0546 310 75 Closed Tue, Sat 43126 Via Mentana 33, 48121
lunch; 3 wks Jul Tel 0521 60 10 00 Closed 15 Jan; Jul Tel 0544 21 52 58 Closed Tue
Just outside the historic centre, & Aug: Sun, Mon; Sep–Jun: Mon, Tue This place has a classy interior
this rustic and cosy spot serves Seasonal produce inspires gastro- and great ambience. The food
the favourites of Emilian cooking. nomic inventions by the two includes fish and is made from
sisters who run this friendly spot. the best local ingredients.
FERRARA: Ca d’Frara €
Regional Italian PARMA: Parizzi €€ RIMINI: Osteria de Borg €
Via del Gambero 4, 44121 Fine dining Regional Italian
Tel 0532 20 50 57 Closed Tue, Wed Strada della Repubblica 71, 43100 Via Forzieri 12, 47921
lunch Tel 0521 28 59 52 Closed Mon; Tel 0541 560 74
A slightly sterile atmosphere last 3 wks Aug A rustic setting in which to
does not detract from the quality Modern decor with spotlights sample meat specialities, local
of the Emilian cuisine. and gold floors. A great menu of cheeses and cured meats.
contemporary and classic dishes.
FERRARA: Big Night, Ristorante RIMINI: Dallo Zio €€
da Giovanni €€ PIACENZA: Vecchia Piacenza €€ Seafood
Regional Italian Modern Italian Via Santa Chiara 16, 47921
Largo Castello 38, 44121 Via Taverna/C.ne S. Bernardo 1, 29100 Tel 0541 78 67 47
Tel 0532 24 23 67 Closed winter Tel 0523 30 54 62 Closed Mon The cuisine at this fresh, modern
Large windows afford castle views A husband-and-wife team spot is inspired by the classic
at this restaurant serving tradi- combine innovative cuisine with flavours of the Adriatic.
tional dishes from land and sea. original interior design.
RIMINI: Guido €€
FIDENZA FORNIO: RAVENNA: Seafood
Osteria di Fornio € Antica Trattoria al Gallo 1909 € Lungomare Guido Spadazzi 12, 47924
Regional Italian Regional Italian Tel 0541 37 46 12 Closed lunch
Via Fornio 78, 43036 Via Maggiore 87, 48123 (Tue–Fri), Mon; 1 wk Dec
Tel 0524 601 18 Closed Mon Tel 0544 21 37 75 Closed Sun Cuttlefish, oysters and calamari
dinner, Tue dinner, Mon, Tue are just a few of the specialities
Tucked away in the countryside, The rustic exterior of this historic served at this spot on the beach.
this restaurant has a chang ing trattoria hides an Art Deco
menu of regional delicacies. interior. Ample Emilian specialities. RIMINI: Ristorante Molo 22 €€
Seafood
MODENA: Al Boschetto da Loris € RAVENNA: Ca de Ven € Via Ortigara 78/80, 47921
Regional Italian Regional Italian Tel 345 089 3907 Closed summer:
Via Due Canali Nord 218, 41122 Via Corrado Ricci 24, 48121 Sat dinner, Sun dinner; winter: Sat
Tel 059 25 17 59 Tel 0544 301 63 Closed Mon dinner, Sun dinner–Wed
This place in a 16th-century Authentic eatery popular with This excellent seafood restaurant
hunting lodge serves home- locals. Shared tables available for a on a dock (molo) offers a warm
style cooking. more casual dining experience. atmosphere and super-fresh fish.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 591 4/5/17 9:32 AM

592  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Da Kou €€
Florence Japanese Map 5 C1
Via del Melarancio 19/r, 50123
La Bussola € Tel 055 28 29 22 Closed Mon
Pizzeria Map 5 C3 Fresh and authentic sushi
Via Porta Rossa, 58 50123 prepared with skill; portions
Tel 055 293376 are generous. The decor is
Charming, low-key pizzeria modern and informal.
with a wood-burning oven.
The service is excellent, and the DK Choice
wine list surprisingly ample.
Alle Murate €€
Casa del Vino € Regional Italian Map 6 E2
Enoteca Map 1 C4 Via del Proconsolo 16/r, 50122
Via dell’Ariento 16r, 50123 Tel 055 24 06 18 Closed Sun
Tel 055 21 56 09 Closed Thu dinner, lunch, Mon
Sun, Mon This unique restaurant offers a
Lively traditional enoteca, with one-of-a-kind opportunity to
a very local clientele. Excellent combine Florentine art and
place for sandwiches and snacks. food. Housed in a 14th-century
palace, it boasts original frescoes Interiors of Pane e Vino, popular for
Il Pizzaiuolo € on the walls and vaulted ceilings, traditional Florentine dishes, Florence
Pizzeria Map 4 E1 hidden for centuries and
Via de’ Macci 113, 50122 uncovered in a painstaking DK Choice
Tel 055 24 11 71 Closed 3 wks Aug; restoration process. The excellent,
1 wk Dec understated local cuisine is a Enoteca Pinchiorri €€€
Treat yourself to a thick-crusted perfect companion to the Fine dining Map 4 E1
Neapolitan-style pizza. stunning early Renaissance art. Via Ghibellina 87, 50122
Tel 055 24 27 57 Closed Sun,
Ruth’s € Mon; Aug; public holidays
Kosher/Vegetarian Map 2 E5 Ora d’Aria €€ This triple Michelin-starred
Via Luigi Carlo Farini 2, 50121 Modern Italian Map 6 D4 restaurant is considered by
Tel 055 248 08 88 Closed Fri dinner, Via dei Georgofili 11/r, 50100 some to be the finest in Italy.
Sat lunch; Jewish festivities Tel 055 200 16 99 Closed Sun, Mon Its modern, understated interior
Located beside the synagogue, lunch; 2 wks Jan, 2 wks Aug and soft lighting provide the
this kosher restaurant serves Tucked away in an alley, this ideal setting to indulge in the
Jewish-inspired recipes. A good place is worth a visit for its exquisite gastronomic creations
range of vegetarian options. authentic speciality dishes. offered here. Specials include
the ravioli with taggiasche olives
Tarocchi € Osteria Santo Spirito €€ and burrata cheese and the
Pizzeria Map 6 E5 Regional Italian Map 5 A5 roast pigeon with honey, spices
Via dei Renai 12, 50125 Piazza Santo Spirito 16, 50125 and breaded aubergine. The
Tel 055 234 39 12 Closed Mon Tel 055 238 23 83 Closed lunch; wine cellar is legendary. A
Great prices at this off-the-beaten- public holidays private dining room is available.
track pizzeria. Pasta dishes are Tuscan specialities with a twist
available, too. at this cosy eatery.
Trattoria Zàzà € Pane e Vino €€
Regional Italian Map 1 C4 Modern Italian Map 3 A1 Tuscany
Piazza del Mercato Centrale 26, 50123 Piazza di Cestello 3/r, 50124
Tel 055 21 54 11 Tel 055 247 69 56 AREZZO:
Traditional Florentine favourites Family-friendly restaurant Le Chiavi d’Oro €€
from land and sea, as well as offering traditional Florentine Modern Italian
vegetarian and gluten-free dishes. dishes and more modern ones. Piazza San Francesco 7, 52100
Tel 0575 403 313 Closed Mon;
Il Vegetariano € Bistrò Del Mare €€€ 1 wk Feb; 1 wk Aug
Vegetarian Map 2 D3 Fine dining Map 5 C3 This stylish Danish-designed
Via delle Ruote 30, 50129 Lungarno Corsini 4/r, 50123 restaurant is elegantly decorated
Tel 055 47 50 30 Closed Mon, Sat & Tel 055 239 92 24 Closed lunch with 1960s swivel stools and
Sun lunch; 3 wks Aug, Christmas (Tue–Thu); Mon; 1 wk Aug blond wood floors. The kitchen
There’s excellent value to be Steps away from Ponte Vecchio, specializes in contemporary,
had at this long-established this refined restaurant serves regionally inspired cuisine.
restaurant. Service is meagre, dishes inspired by old Tuscan
but portions are not. recipes but brought up to date. AREZZO:
La Lancia d’Oro €€
Dei Frescobaldi €€ Cibrèo €€€ Regional Italian
Enoteca Map 6 E3 Modern Italian Map 4 F1 Piazza Grande 18, 52100
Via dei Magazzini 2, 50122 Via Andrea del Verrocchio 8/r, 50122 Tel 0575 210 33 Closed Sun dinner;
Tel 055 28 47 24 Closed 1 wk Jan, 3 Tel 055 234 11 00 Closed Mon; Mon; 2 wks Feb, 2 wks Nov
wks Aug 3 wks Aug Hearty Tuscan meals on offer in
Top fine wines and meticulously This trendy place delights diners a stunning setting with outdoor
matched dishes in a historic with its contemporary take on seating under Vasari’s Loggias
setting with frescoed walls. local cuisine. (Vasari’s Corridor).
Key to prices see p580
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 592 4/5/17 9:32 AM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  593

ARTIMINO: Da Delfina €€ LUCCA: Da Giulio in Pelleria € MONTEPULCIANO: La Grotta €€
Regional Italian Regional Italian Regional Italian
Via della Chiesa 1, 59015 Via delle Conce 47, 55100 Via di San Biagio 15, 53045
Tel 055 871 80 74 Closed Mon; Tel 0583 559 48 Closed 3 wks Jan Tel 0578 757 479 Closed Wed;
1 wk Jan, 1 wk Feb Popular trattoria serving Tuscan Jan; Feb
The chef’s creations are inspired fare such as polenta and zuppa A restaurant set in a 16th-century
by his mother’s cooking. Hidden di farro (bean and spelt soup). building. The menu features
away in a delightful walled town. expertly revisited Tuscan classics.
LUCCA: La Tana dell’Orco €
CORTONA: Pizzeria MONTERIGGIONI: Il Pozzo €€
Hostaria la Bucaccia € Viale Regina Margherita 225, 55100 Regional Italian
Regional Italian Tel 389 023 32 34 Closed Tue Piazza Roma 2, 53035
Via Ghibellina 17, 52044 The concept is simple at this Tel 0577 304 127 Closed Sun
Tel 0575 606 039 Closed 15–30 Jan; pizzeria just outside the city walls – dinner, Mon; 2 wks Jan; 2 wks Feb
Dec–Feb: Mon minimal service and low prices. Well located in the centre of the
This restaurant has original walled town, this rustic osteria
features, built over a Roman LUCCA: Buca di Sant’Antonio €€ serves traditional fare.
road. Home cooking is served. Regional Italian
Via della Cervia 3, 55100 PIENZA: Latte di Luna €
CORTONA: Il Falconiere €€€ Tel 0583 558 81 Closed Sun dinner, Regional Italian
Fine dining Mon; 1 wk Jan; 1 wk Jun Via San Carlo 2, 53026
Località San Martino 370, 52044 Ancient local recipes are lovingly Tel 0578 748 606 Closed Tue
Tel 0575 612 679 Closed 7–30 Jan prepared at this historic eatery Classic Tuscan dishes at this
Nestled among olive and cypress in a medieval stable. quaint, family-friendly eatery.
trees, this restaurant is in a truly Dont forget to try the locally
idyllic setting. A great place to MONTALCINO: produced pecorino cheese.
sample exalted Tuscan cuisine. Il Boccon Divino €€
Regional Italian PISA: A Casa Mia €
ELBA: Publius € Strada Provinciale Traversa dei Regional Italian
Regional Italian Monti 201, 53024 Via Provinciale Calcesana 10, 56010
Piazza del Castagneto 11, Poggio, Tel 0577 848 233 Closed Tue Tel 050 879 265 Closed Sat lunch;
57030 Enjoy classic Tuscan dishes and Sun; 1 wk Jan; Aug
Tel 0565 992 08 Closed Mon; admire sweeping views of the Traditional recipes are served by
Nov–Mar countryside. The winelist warm and helpful staff in the
A wide variety of dishes and an is excellent. one-time home of the owners.
impressive wine cellar at this
lovely restaurant with sea views. MONTE ARGENTARIO: PISA: Osteria del Porton Rosso €
Osteria dei Nobili Santi €€ Regional Italian
ELBA: La Lucciola €€ Seafood Via Porton Rosso 11, 56126
Seafood Le Piane, 58019 Tel 050 580 566 Closed Mon
Lungomare Pino Nomellini 64, Tel 0564 833 015 Closed Mon The menu is scrawled on a
Marina di Campo, 57034 Good prices at this intimate blackboard at this eatery hidden
Tel 0565 976 395 Closed Nov–Apr restaurant inside a polo club in the backstreets. Serves classic
Opt for the catch of the day at serving plenty of delec table Tuscan meat and seafood.
this romantic spot on the beach. fish dishes.
PISA: La Taverna di Emma €
ELBA: Stella Marina €€ MONTEPULCIANO: Modern Italian
Seafood Osteria Acquacheta € Carlo Salomone Cammeo 50, 56122
Via Vittorio Emanuele II 1, Regional Italian Tel 050 555 003 Closed Sun;
Portoferraio, 57037 Via del Teatro 22, 53045 1 wk Feb; last wk Aug
Tel 0565 880 566 Closed Mon Tel 0578 717 086 Closed Tue Simple local eatery with a
Fish doesn’t get much fresher This tiny, popular restaurant is talented chef who whips up
than at this tiny port-side always packed. The Tuscan meat imaginative yet tradition-inspired
restaurant; excellent wine list, too. dishes are a speciality. recipes. Gorgeous desserts.
PISA: V. Beni €€
Seafood
Piazza Chiara Gambacorti 22, 56125
Tel 050 250 67 Closed Sun;
2 wks Aug
Slightly off the tourist track, this
favourite with the locals is housed
in a rustic 600-year-old building.
PISTOIA: La Bottegaia €
Enoteca
Via del Lastrone 17, 51100
Tel 0573 365 602 Closed Mon;
2 wks Aug
Cheeses, cured meats, tempting
desserts and, of course, a great
selection of wine at this friendly,
The well-stocked wine cellar at Da Delfina in Artimino unpretentious wine bar.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9

580-605_EW_Italy.indd 593 4/5/17 9:32 AM

594  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

VIAREGGIO: Cabreo €€
Seafood
Via Firenze 14, 55049
Tel 0584 546 43 Closed Sun; Nov
The day’s catch is cooked and
brought straight to your plate at
this authentic fish eatery. Meat
dishes are available.
VIAREGGIO: Piccolo Principe €€€
Fine dining
Piazza Giacomo Puccini 1, 55049
Tel 0584 40 11 Closed Nov–May
Creative and sophisticated cuisine
served in a rooftop garden with
magnificent sea views. Its two
Michelin stars are well earned.
The traditionally decorated dining area of Osteria le Logge in Siena VOLTERRA: Enoteca del Duca €
Enoteca
PRATO: Osteria Cibbè € DK Choice Via di Castello 2, 56048
Regional Italian Tel 0588 815 10 Closed Tue; Jan; Feb
Piazza Mercatale 49, 59100 SIENA: Oro di Siena € Cosy wine bar serving rustic
Tel 0574 607 509 Closed Sun; Regional Italian snacks. There’s also an elegant
3 wks Aug Via Garibaldi 61–65, 53100 restaurant for full meals in the
Try the traditional Tuscan recipes Tel 0577 28 27 29 typical Tuscan tradition.
and comforting home-made A gem: a cosy restaurant, aimed
desserts at this charming eatery. at locals, serving traditional VOLTERRA: Il Sacco Fiorentino €
Tuscan food at reasonable Regional Italian
SAN GIMIGNANO: prices. Don’t let the unattractive Via Turazza 13, 56048
Antica Macelleria € exterior stop you from enjoying Tel 0588 885 37 Closed Tue;
Regional Italian the home-made pastas, the 1 wk Jan
Via dei Marsili 1/3, 53037 tagliata steak and other An intriguing tasting menu, as well
Tel 0577 942 228 Sienese dishes. Great service as numerous à la carte options,
Pick your meat from the old-style and excellent value for money. offering traditional Tuscan with
butcher’s counter and the chef international touches.
will prepare it to your liking.
SIENA:
SAN GIMIGNANO: Dorandò €€ La Taverna di San Giuseppe €
Regional Italian Regional Italian Umbria
Vicolo dell’Oro 2, 53037 Via Giovanni Duprè 132, 53100
Tel 0577 941 862 Closed Dec–Feb Tel 0577 422 86 Closed Sun; ASSISI: La Fortezza €
Enjoy beautifully cooked locally 2 wks Jul; 2 wks Dec Regional Italian
sourced produce at Dorandò. Rustic eatery with local flavours. Vicolo della Fortezza 2b, 06081
Check out the wine cellar, carved Tel 075 81 29 93 Closed Thu; Jul
SAN SEPOLCRO: from an ancient Etruscan dwelling. Mostly traditional cuisine, with
Ristorante da Ventura € some creative touches. Friendly
Regional Italian SIENA: Trattoria Papei € but professional service and
Via Aggiunti Niccolò 30, 52037 Regional Italian good price-quality ratio.
Tel 0575 742 560 Closed Sun dinner, Piazza del Mercato 6, 53100
Mon; 2 wks Aug Tel 0577 280 894 ASSISI: I Monaci €
Enjoy home-made delights This informal spot is run by an Pizzeria
at this family-run eatery. Try entire family, with mamma Via Scalette 10, 06081
the slow-cooked veal, or the preparing Tuscan specialities. Tel 075 81 25 12
truffle-filled ravioli. A warm and rustic pizzeria in the
SIENA: Osteria le Logge €€ heart of the medieval centre.
SIENA: Enoteca i Terzi € Modern Italian
Enoteca Via del Porrione 33, 53100 GUBBIO: Grotta dell’Angelo €€
Via dei Termini 7, 53100 Tel 0577 480 13 Closed Sun; Enoteca
Tel 0577 443 29 Closed Sun 1 wk Jan Via Gioia 47, 06024
Airy, spacious wine bar with This lovely restaurant with Tel 075 9271 747 Closed Tue;
copious varieties of cheeses traditional furnishings serves 7 Jan–7 Feb
and smoked and cured meats. novel interpretations of classic This rustic wine bar is carved into
cuisine and has a fine wine list. a 13th-century cave. Enjoy dining
SIENA: Grotta Santa Caterina in the garden in summer.
da Bagoga € SIENA: Tre Cristi €€
Regional Italian Enoteca GUBBIO: Taverna del Lupo €€
Via della Galluzza 26, 53100 Vicolo di Provenzano 1–7, 53100 Regional Italian
Tel 0577 282 208 Closed Sun dinner, Tel 0577 280 608 Closed Sun Via Ansidei 6, 06024
Mon; 2 wks Jan; 1 wk Jul Excellent seafood restaurant, Tel 075 9274 368 Closed Mon
Tucked in a narrow backstreet away from the tourist area, Succulent local cuisine at this
this authentic restaurant offers with plenty of atmosphere centrally located spot run by
good food and great service. and attentive service. a husband-and-wife team.
Key to prices see p580
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 594 05/05/2017 10:09

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  595

MONTEFALCO: Coccorone € ORVIETO: I Sette Consoli €€ DK Choice
Regional Italian Modern Italian
Largo Tempestivi 11, 06036 Piazza Sant’Angelo 1a, 05018 SPOLETO: Il Tartufo €
Tel 074 2379 535 Closed Wed Tel 0763 343 911 Closed Sun dinner, Regional Italian
Traditional seasonal ingredients, Wed Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 24,
including truffles and porcini Original and imaginative cuisine 06049
mushrooms, are used to create in a rustic yet dignified setting. Tel 0743 40 236 Closed Sun
an authentic dining experience. Dine in the garden in summer, dinner, Mon
weather permitting. The decor may be simple,
NORCIA: Il Casale degli Amici € but the local truffles that
Regional Italian PASSIGNANO SUL TRASIMENO: this restaurant is named after
Piazza San Benedetto 12, 06046 Cacciatori da Luciano €€€ make it worth a special trip. The
Tel 0743 81 78 76 Closed Wed Seafood owners, members of the family
Excellent Umbrian cuisine served Lungolago Aganor Pompilj 3, 06061 who opened the restaurant in
in a simple setting in the heart of Tel 075 827 210 Closed Wed; 1927, are dedicated to creating
Norcia. Courteous service. 6–30 Jan dishes based on traditional local
Fresh fish from the adjacent recipes. In good weather, it’s
NORCIA: lake and delicacies from the possible to eat outside on the
Taverna de’ Massari €€ sea are cooked using authentic bustling piazza.
Regional Italian recipes. Extensive wine list.
Via Roma 13, 06046
Tel 0743 81 62 18 Closed Tue; PERUGIA: La Botte € TODI:
2 wk Jan, 1 wk Jul Pizzeria Antica Hostaria della Valle €
Intimate spot offering the time- Via Volte della Pace 31, 06122 Modern Italian
honoured pork dishes that make Tel 075 5722 679 Closed Sun Via Augusto Ciuffelli 19, 06059
this tiny town famous. Simple, no-frills pizzeria serving Tel 340 818 4775 Closed Mon
delicious family recipes. Imaginative gastronomic delights
ORVIETO: Del Moro-Aronne € at this cosy and welcoming
Regional Italian PERUGIA: Il Falchetto € osteria. The home-made pasta
Via San Leonardo 7, 05018 Modern Italian is the star of the show.
Tel 0763 34 27 63 Closed Tue Via Bartolo 20, 06123
Simple, home-style cooking is Tel 075 5731 775 TODI: Umbria €€
served up by friendly and Gorgeous little restaurant inside a Regional Italian
enthusiastic staff. medieval building, with seating on Via San Bonaventura 13, 06059
the piazza in summer. The menu Tel 075 894 27 37 Closed Tue
ORVIETO: Osteria da Mamma is full of classic Umbrian dishes. Traditional cuisine is carefully
Angela € prepared at this legendary
Regional Italian PERUGIA: restaurant. There is a dining
Piazza del Popolo 2, 05018 Antica Trattoria San Lorenzo €€ terrace with picturesque views.
Tel 0763 34 27 90 Modern Italian
This simple trattoria in the centre Piazza Danti 19/a, 06122
of town serves hearty Tuscan Tel 075 5721 956
food at reasonable prices. Creative Umbrian-inspired Le Marche
cuisine is on offer at this cosy
ORVIETO: Duca di Orvieto €€ spot just behind the Duomo. ANCONA: La Moretta €
Regional Italian Regional Italian
Via della Pace 5, 05018 PERUGIA: Borgomela €€ Piazza Plebiscito 52, 60121
Tel 0763 34 46 63 Closed Wed Regional Italian Tel 071 20 23 17 Closed Sun;
A family-run restaurant using Strada Tiberina Nord 224/c5, Località 1–6 Jan
centuries-old local recipes. The Tavernacce, 06134 This traditional restaurant has
patient staff are happy to explain Tel 075 60 42 45 Closed Sun dinner; been in the same family for over
the day’s specials in detail. Mon, Tue 100 years. Sample the excellent
This family-run restaurant offers stoccafisso (dried cod) in broth.
a range of traditional dishes with
elegance but without pretension. ANCONA: Opera Nova
della Marca €€
PERUGIA: Il Gradale €€ Modern Italian
Modern Italian Via Varano 127, Località Varano, 60131
Strada Montevile 3, 06126 Tel 071 286 10 93 Closed Mon
Tel 075 5717 402 Super location and creative food
This restaurant in the grand based on traditional cuisine.
Castello di Monterone hotel Simple decor but great service.
delights diners with a choice of
light and sophisticated dishes. ANCONA: Osteria del Baffo €€
Regional Italian
SPOLETO: Il Tempio del Gusto € Via Monte Venanzio 2, 60129
Modern Italian Tel 071 349 43 Closed Sun dinner;
Via Arco di Druso 11, 06049 Mon
Tel 0743 471 21 Closed Thu At the end of the shoreline walk,
Stone floors and small tables up on a cliff, you find the best
create an intimate atmosphere in location in Ancona: a terrace
Traditional rustic charm at the cosy this restaurant serving creative with gorgeous views of the sea.
Duca di Orvieto, Orvieto and top-notch cuisine. Excellent fish and great service.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 595 4/5/17 9:32 AM

596  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ASCOLI PICENO: Nonna Nina € URBANIA: Big Ben € Intimate and romantic spot for
Regional Italian Regional Italian classic fare made with organic
Piazza della Viola 11, 63100 Corso V. Emanuele 61, 61049 ingredients. The warm chocolate
Tel 0736 25 15 23 Closed Mon Tel 0722 31 97 95 cake is divine, as is the wine list.
Popular with locals, this great Marchegiana specialities such as
family-run restaurant serves truffles, snails and wild fennel are Baffetto €
traditional food at reasonable offered at this restaurant. Pizzeria Map 9 B3
prices. Try the home-made pasta. Via del Governo Vecchio 114, 00186
URBINO: Guanábana € Tel 06 686 16 17
ASCOLI PICENO: Del Corso €€ Modern Italian The crunchy Roman-style pizza is
Seafood Via Giuseppe Mazzini 65, 61029 said to be the best in Rome, but
Corso Giuseppe Mazzini 277, 63100 Tel 366 726 55 51 be prepared to wait and to share
Tel 0736 25 67 60 Closed 3 wks Jan, This quirky little restaurant offers a table when you do get served.
2 Dec an interesting fusion of local and
Tiny stone-walled restaurant Venezuelan cuisines. Cul de Sac €
located in a historic palazzo. Most Enoteca Map 9 C3
dishes on the changing menu URBINO: Taverna degli Artisti € Piazza di Pasquino 73, 00186
are fish-based. Regional Italian Tel 06 68 80 10 94 Closed 24, 25 &
Via Donato Bramante 52, 61029 31 Dec
LORETO: Andreina € Tel 0722 26 76 This narrow wine bar with a patio
Regional Italian Opulent frescoed ceilings make a boasts hundreds of labels, as well
Via Buffolareccia 14, 60025 dramatic contrast to the simple as a wide variety of tasty eats,
Tel 071 97 01 24 Closed Tue, home-style cooking. both traditional and creative.
Wed
Rustic place with a few modern URBINO: Da Giggetto €
touches. Serves Tuscan specialities Antica Osteria da la Stella €€ Regional Italian Map 10 E5
and tempting grilled meats. Regional Italian Via del Portico d’Ottavia 21/22, 00186
Via Santa Margherita 1, 61029 Tel 06 686 11 05 Closed Mon; last
LORETO: Vecchia Fattoria € Tel 0722 320228 2 wks Aug, 24 & 31 Dec
Regional Italian This historic restaurant counts Dine near ancient ruins at this
Via Manzoni 19, 60025 famous painters Raphael and Jewish-Roman eatery. Don’t miss
Tel 071 97 89 76 Piero della Francesca among its the deep-fried artichokes.
This converted farmhouse offers one-time clientele. Elegant
classic regional dishes in a interior with a cosy fireplace. Nonna Betta €
welcoming family atmosphere. Regional Italian Map 10 E5
Via del Portico d’Ottavia 16, 00186
PESARO: Da Gennaro € Tel 06 68 80 62 63 Closed Tue
Seafood Rome An authentic Jewish eatery (but
Via Santa Marina Alta 30/1, 61100 without kosher certification). Don’t
Tel 0721 273 21 Closed Sun dinner, The Ancient Centre expect an English translation on
Mon; 1–20 Sep Enoteca Provincia Romana € the menu, but the food is great.
Perched in the mountains 7 km Enoteca Map 3 A4
(4 miles) west of the sea, this is Largo di Foro Traiano 82–4, 00187 Old Bear €
one of the most authentic Tel 06 69 94 02 73 Closed Sun & Regional Italian Map 9 C2
eateries in town. Mon dinner Via dei Gigli d’Oro 2–4, 00186
Both the wine list and the menu Tel 06 68 21 00 09 Closed Apr;
PESARO: Il Commodoro €€ are local here, and the view of Nov: Mon
Enoteca the Imperial fora is spectacular. Dark wood beams and low ceilings
Viale Trieste 269, 61121 create a warm ambience. Don’t
Tel 0721 326 80 Closed Mon Aroma €€€ miss the Tuscan soup with truffle
This inviting modern spot serves Fine dining Map 7 1A oil or the truffle-flavoured eggs.
up fresh fish and much more. Via Labicana 125, 00184
Cosy wine bar attached. Tel 06 77 59 13 80
Views of the Colosseum and a
PESARO: Da Alceo €€€ seasonal menu of local favourites
Seafood prepared to the highest standards.
Strada Panoramica Ardizio 101,
61100 Around Piazza Navona
Tel 0721 513 60
A panoramic seaside terrace Acchiappafantasmi €
provides an exquisite setting in Pizzeria Map 9 B3
which to sample some of the Via dei Cappellari 66, 00186
best seafood in the area. Tel 06 687 34 62 Closed Mon
Its name means “ghostbusters”
SAN MARINO: and the ghost-shaped pizzas are
Righi la Taverna €€€ tasty and amusing. The rest of the
Fine dining menu is full of Calabrian dishes.
Piazzale della Libertà 10, 47825
Tel 0549 99 11 96 Closed Sun dinner, Angolo Divino €
Mon; Jan, Feb Enoteca Map 9 C4
The most famous restaurant in Via dei Balestrari 12, 00186
this republic serves a mix of age- Tel 06 686 44 13 Closed Sun & Mon Diners at the well-known Jewish-Roman
old and modern Italian cuisine. lunch; 10–20 Aug eatery Nonna Betta
Key to prices see p580
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 596 4/5/17 9:32 AM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  597

Open Baladin €
Birreria Map 10 D5
Via degli Specchi 6, 00186
Tel 06 683 89 89 Closed Sun; 2 wks
Aug, 24, 25 & 31 Dec
More than 20 craft beers on offer,
plus all-natural sodas. Staple
snack food, such as sandwiches
with cured meats, is served.
Osteria del Gallo €
Regional Italian Map 2 E3
Vicolo di Montevecchio 27, 00186
Tel 06 687 37 81
An informal trattoria that serves
classic Roman specialities
alongside fish dishes. Lots of
outdoor space in the piazza. The classic exterior of La Carbonara in Northeast Rome
Il Bacaro €€ La Rosetta €€€ Hang Zhou €
Modern Italian Map 10 D2 Fine dining Map 9 C4 Chinese Map 4 E5
Via degli Spagnoli 27, 00186 Via della Rosetta 8/9, 00186 Via Principe Eugenio 82, 00184
Tel 06 687 25 54 Tel 06 686 10 02 Tel 06 487 27 32 Closed Aug
Romantic restaurant with dishes The daily catch is cooked in a Said to offer the best Chinese
such as trofie with asparagus and variety of ways – or served raw food in town. The all-you-can-eat
beef carpaccio with truffles, plus as carpaccio. Great oysters, too. buffet is a steal; other meals are
a plethora of Roman specialities. higher than average. Book ahead.
Hostaria dell’Orso €€ Northeast Rome San Marco €
Fine dining Map 9 C2 Antica Birreria Peroni € Pizzeria Map 3 C1
Via dei Soldati 25c, 00186 Birreria Map 10 F3 Via Sardegna 38, 00187
Tel 06 68 30 11 92 Closed Aug Via di San Marcello 19, 00187 Tel 06 42 01 26 20 Closed 1 wk Aug;
This restaurant and nightclub in Tel 06 679 53 10 Closed Sun; 24 Dec
a beautiful old house, has been 2 & 5 Aug; 24, 25 & 31 Dec A large wine bar and grill noted
welcoming guests since the 1500s. Casual spot that’s been serving for its pizzas and warm service.
beer for over 100 years (wine is Blackboard specials include fish
Il Pagliaccio €€ also available). All-Italian grilled and meat dishes.
Fine dining Map 9 B2 beef and pork is on the menu.
Via dei Banchi Vecchi 129, 00186 Ai Tre Scalini €
Tel 06 68 80 95 95 Closed Mon & Tue La Campana € Enoteca Map 3 C4
lunch; Aug Regional Italian Map 10 D1 Via Panisperna 251, 00184
Michelin-starred restaurant serving Vicolo della Campana 18, 00186 Tel 06 48 90 74 95
a blend of Mediterranean and Tel 06 687 52 73 Closed Mon; One of the hippest wine bars in
pan-Asian fare. Some tasting Aug town, with excellent wines, beers
menus have up to 12 courses. Packed any night of the week, and savoury delicacies.
this restaurant dating from 1518
Roscioli €€ is the oldest in Rome. Traditional Trimani il Wine Bar €
Enoteca Map 9 C4 favourites are served, plus pizza. Enoteca Map 4 D2
Via dei Giubbonari 21, 00186 Via Cernaia 37b, 00185
Tel 06 687 52 87 Closed Sun La Carbonara € Tel 06 446 96 30 Closed Sun; 1 Jan;
Part wine bar, part salumeria with Regional Italian Map 3 C4 2 wks Aug; 25 & 26 Dec
drool-worthy meats and cheese Via Panisperna 214, 00184 Modern wine bar with labels that
and a dizzying selection of labels. Tel 06 482 51 76 Closed Sun; Aug pair perfectly with cold and hot
This busy osteria serves hearty dishes, as well as Italian cheeses.
Terra di Siena €€ local fare. Try the fried vegetables
Regional Italian Map 9 C3 or the delicious carbonara. Ambasciata d’Abruzzo €€
Piazza di Pasquino 77, 00186 Regional Italian
Tel 06 68 30 77 04 Closed Sun in Cavour 313 € Via Pietro Tacchini 26, 00197
summer Enoteca Map 3 C5 Tel 06 807 82 56 Closed 3 wks Aug
Hearty Tuscan dishes – Florentine Via Cavour 313, 00184 Traditional Abruzzese dishes,
steak and ribollita soup – in a Tel 06 678 54 96 Closed Sun in summer such as maccheroni with lamb
cheerful dining room or on the The staff will help you select a ragù, mingle with Roman
lively square, near Piazza Navona. vintage to match your food in favourites in a convivial setting.
this wood-lined wine bar.
Camponeschi €€€ Cuoco e Camicia €€
Fine dining Map 9 C4 ‘Gusto € Modern Italian Map 3 C5
Piazza Farnese, 50/50a, 00186 Pizzeria Map 2 F2 Via di Monte Polacco 2/4, 00184
Tel 06 687 49 27 Closed Sun Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, 00186 Tel 06 88 92 29 87 Closed Sun, Sat
World-class dining with a view Tel 06 322 62 73 Closed 1 Jan, lunch; 2 wks Aug
of one of Rome’s most beautiful 24 Dec Cheerful restaurant that prides
piazzas. Try tagliolini with lobster Factory-like setting with exposed itself on using only fresh, local
and black truffles; wild game is brick and iron for Neapolitan-style ingredients. Try the octopus salad
the house speciality. pizzas. Good Sunday brunch, too. or opt for the tasting menu.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp578–9
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 597 4/5/17 9:32 AM

598  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Doozo €€
Japanese Map 3 C4
Via Palermo 51, 00184
Tel 06 481 56 55 Closed Sun lunch,
Mon; 1 wk Aug; 22 Dec–15 Jan
Excellent sushi at this restaurant
and cultural centre with a garden.
It also offers origami courses.
Hamasei €€
Japanese Map 10 F1
Via della Mercede 35/36, 00187
Tel 06 679 21 34 Closed Mon; Aug
Inventive sushi and sashimi
dishes, plus a selection of hot
meals, in a minimalist setting,
with low tables for authentic
Japanese dining.
Sleek interiors at the Japanese restaurant Doozo, northeast Rome
Imàgo €€
Fine dining Map 3 A2 The Vatican and a youthful crowd. Creative
Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6, 00187 Trastevere specialities include a shellfish
Tel 06 69 93 47 26 Closed lunch pasta dish and pasta with
Creative Italian cuisine and Antica Osteria Rugantino € octopus. For dessert, try the
exceptional views from the top Roman Map 6 D1 superb tiramisù.
of the Spanish Steps. The desserts Via della Lungaretta 54, 00153
are divine and the wine list is Tel 06 581 85 17 Panattoni L’Obitorio €
expertly chosen. Specializing in pasta dishes, this Pizzeria Map 5 C1
rustic place serves traditional Viale di Trastevere 53, 00153
Osteria Margutta €€ Roman fare in a typical Trastevere Tel 06 580 09 19 Closed Wed;
Modern Italian Map 3 A2 setting. Pleasant outdoor patio. 10, 28 Aug
Via Margutta 82b, 00187 Nicknamed “the morgue” for
Tel 06 323 10 25 Closed Sun dinner, Bir and Fud € its long marble-top tables.
Mon lunch; 1 wk Aug Birreria Map 2 E5 Try the supplì al telefono (fried
Historic restaurant on a vine- Via Benedetta 23, 00153 rice balls).
covered street serving classic Tel 06 589 40 16 Closed 25, 31 Dec
Roman fare with a modern twist. Boutique beers and microbrews Dar Poeta €
The restaurant’s motto is “art in accompany crusty pizzas and Pizzeria Map 2 E5
the kitchen”. gourmet chips at this popular Vicolo del Bologna 45, 00153
and hip joint in Trastevere. Tel 06 588 05 16 Closed 24 Dec,
Trattoria Monti €€ 31 Dec
Regional Italian Map 4 D4 Brasserie 4.20 € Perfect balance between thick-
Via di San Vito 13, 00185 Birreria Map 5 C3 and thin-crusted pizza at this
Tel 06 446 65 73 Closed Sun dinner, Via Portuense 82, 00153 joyfully hectic spot. The buffalo
Mon; Aug, 24 Dec–3 Jan Tel 06 58 31 07 37 mozzarella topping is unmatched.
The cuisine hails from Le Marche Craft beers from around the
region, and the ingredients are world are paired with snacks Il Sorpasso €
all local, seasonal and carefully such as burgers, fries and Roman Map 1 C2
selected. A heavenly spot. hotdogs at this welcoming spot. Via Properzio 31–33, 00193
Tel 06 89 02 45 54 Closed Sun
Urbana 47 €€ Da Gildo € Il Sorpasso delivers simple
Modern Italian Map 3 C4 Regional Italian Map 2 D5 dishes that are big on flavour.
Via Urbana 47, 00184 Via della Scala 31/a, 00153 Everything is made using fresh,
Tel 06 47 88 40 06 Closed 2 wks Aug Tel 06 580 07 33 Closed Thu organic ingredients sourced from
An eclectic place with vintage Quirky decoration and a cosy the surrounding countryside.
decor, serving creative and out door seating area. Try the
delicious dishes that are the divine gnocchi alla romana (baked Trattoria da Lucia €
result of extensive research. gnocchi with cheese on top). Regional Italian Map 5 B1
Great range of desserts and Vicolo del Mattonato 2b, 00153
exceptional value. Ivo a Trastevere € Tel 06 580 36 01 Closed Mon; 2 wks
Pizzeria Map 5 C1 Aug; 24, 25 & 31 Dec
Oliver Glowig €€€ Via di San Francesco a Ripa 158, 00153 Simple pasta dishes, as well as
Fine dining Tel 06 581 70 82 Closed Tue more hearty meals and delicious
Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15, 00197 A wide range of snacks and home-made desserts, are served
Tel 06 321 61 26 Closed Sun & Mon thin-crusted pizza have this in a traditional setting.
in winter, Sun only in summer eatery bustling with locals.
The chef is German, but the Antico Arco €€
menu is 100% Mediterranean Meridionale € Fine dining Map 5 A1
at this luxury hotel restaurant. Southern Italian Map 5 C1 Piazzale Aurelio 7, 00152
Try delicacies such as scampi Via dei Fienaroli 30/a, 00153 Tel 06 581 52 74 Closed 1 Jan
with artichoke heart and burrata Tel 06 589 71 96 Truffles and tuna tartare are made
cheese, or fish dishes combining All pasta is home-made at this to per fection at this romantic
Roman and Sicilian traditions. modern restaurant attracting restaurant with a superb wine list.
Key to prices see p580
580-605_EW_Italy.indd 598 4/5/17 9:32 AM